CHAPTER X. WILLIAM HALL'S JOURNAL, 1819-25.
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CHAPTER X
WILLIAM HALL'S JOURNAL, 1819-25
FROM 1819 till his departure from New Zealand in 1825, Hall kept a journal, which is preserved in the Hocken Library. This journal, with his letters throughout these years, throws many sidelights upon the general state of New Zealand at the end of the first phase of missionary effort. The following are some of the more interesting entries:--
"Extracts of a Journal respecting my Proceedings.
"1819. Friday, January 1st.--The new year beginning with the approach of harvest, we have a promising crop of wheat amongst ourselves, and likewise of potatoes, etc., amongst the natives. Such abundant blessing loudly calls for thankful praise.
"Sunday, 3rd.--Mr. Kendall read the Church Service for the day. Many natives crowded round the Chapel, beat the walls, made much noise, and were very rude--they often annoy us, but blessed be God they do not prevent us.
"Monday, 4th.--I commenced reaping wheat; it was sown on the 12th of May last.
"Friday, 8th--This day amongst other blessings Mrs. Hall has been safely delivered of a son, and may he prove to be a child of God, and rise to be a member of Christ's church and an heir of glory.
"Monday, March 8th.--A canoe came to our settlement with a few natives in it, and I being down at the sawpits one of the natives, an inferior chief, came to me and demanded a musket, and because I could not comply with his request he pulled and struck me and abused me very much without any provocation. He then ran up to my house in a furious manner and threatened to break into it if I did not give him one; he got over my fence and beat the door with a large stick in a violent manner, until some of the neighbours came to my assistance, and we dragged him out of the yard forcibly, twice over; at length he went to fetch fire to burn our houses and property, but we prevented him doing that and drove him entirely off. We have need of firmness as well as forbearance, and every grace has its trials at certain times.
"Friday, 19th.--Some of my working natives this week are sawing plank for the brig Active, others are preparing ground for the wheat, others making fences, etc.
"Thursday, April 1st.--I was at work in my smith-shop, and unknown to me a spark had communicated with some straw in the barn adjoining, and could not be extinguished until the barn,
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the smith-shop, the joiner shop, fowlhouse, and pigsty, etc., were all burnt to the ground. A great part of my tools and wheat were destroyed, but blessed be God mercy rejoiced against judgment and my dwelling house was preserved.
"Wednesday, May 5th.--Arrived the Active, six weeks and two days from Port Jackson, with the Rev. Mr. Leigh 1 of the Wesleyan Mission on board from New South Wales on a visit to our settlement. After the vessel had landed our supplies, she went up to the timber ground to take in a cargo of spars, and I went up to her in my own boat manned with natives to assist and encourage the timber ground natives to cut the spars and tow them down the river convenient to the vessel. After I returned, Mr. King and Mr. Leigh went up the Kiddee Kiddee (Kerikeri) River to visit Shunghee's (Hongi) settlement. They returned in two days, much gratified with the appearance of the country. A few days afterwards, Mr. Kendall, Mr. Leigh, and Mr. Gordon went in the ship's boat to see the harbour and settlement at Whangaroa. When they arrived there they found the harbour to have a very narrow and difficult entrance on account of its being so confined by woods and islands, and no extent of land within promising for cultivation. They saw the melancholy sight of the bottom of the ship Boyd, lying in the bay a little below the surface of the water, and little or nothing remaining that was valuable or worth looking after. They remained all night amongst the natives and returned next day.
"June 17th.--The Active being ready for sea, Captain Thompson sent his boat for me to go on board. They immediately weighed and sailed, and I accompanied them out at the heads and so parted with our valuable and kind friends Mr. Leigh and Captain Thompson, and they stood out to sea with a fair breeze. I have kept two pairs of sawyers constantly sawing for the brig all the time she has been in the Bay. I have sent 103 planks three inches thick and twelve inches deep and 53 boat oars, besides other boards, to New South Wales for Mr. Marsden. Shunghee desires as many boards and other sawn timber as will build him a modern house at the Kiddee Kiddee, which I mean to saw for him as soon as I can. I have likewise all my outhouses to rebuild that were destroyed by fire; this loss put me to a great inconvenience on account of my tools and other materials. I sent to Mr. Marsden desiring him to replace me such tools as I cannot do without.
"Tuesday, 29th.--Mr. Kendall and Mr. King went to Jukiangha (Hokianga) to visit the natives in the interior of the country and to ascertain whether it would be a suitable place for a settlement or not. *
"Thursday, July 1st.--This week I am teaching two more native sawyers to saw timber.
* Vide infra, pp. 251-2.
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"Thursday, 15th.--Mr. Kendall and Mr. King arrived from their excursion very much gratified with their journey. They have been absent from their families 17 days; the natives treated them very kindly; they have explored the beautiful river of Jukiangha (Hokianga), which is navigable for many miles up, and empties itself into the sea on the western coast of New Zealand nearly opposite to the Bay of Islands. They have found it to be a commodious and safe harbour with the banks of the river abounding with excellent timber, and likewise a quantity of fine land fit for cultivation. They also visited the adjacent settlements, and Mr. Kendall took every opportunity of communicating to the natives much desired and useful knowledge.
"Saturday, 17th.--This morning I had all my working natives in at prayers, which consists of two pairs of sawyers, one repairing the fence at the farm, one procuring firewood and water and other domestic work in the kitchen, and a girl that takes care of the young child--seven in all. Yesterday I overheard some of them swearing and using bad language, and I took this opportunity of cautioning them against it by pointing out to them the eternal miseries of all the wicked in hell after death and likewise the joys of heaven prepared for all those that love God and embrace the Christian religion.
"Wednesday, 21st.--This day I have commenced teaching another pair of native sawyers. Our demand for timber is so great that I am obliged to employ as many as I can victual and pay. This week I have killed six large hogs and salted them down, chiefly for the support of the working natives.
"Thursday, 29th.--The Rev. Mr. Marsden having sent James Boyle from Port Jackson and placed him at Curra Curra (Korokoro) Island, * situated on the south side of the Bay, for the purpose of making salt and curing fish in order to assist in defraying the Active's expenses and to teach the natives that work, this morning James Boyle and John Olivary came over with the boat for me, and I went with them to Curra Curra Island to put up the frame of a wooden storehouse according to Mr. Marsden's instructions, for the purpose of depositing the Active's cargo as before mentioned, and with the intention of visiting the east coast before we returned.
"Friday, 30th.--In the morning I had Curra Curra (Korokoro), the principal chief of the south side of the Bay of Islands, and part of his people assembled for prayer in a thatched hut where we had slept all night. I explained to them the manner of our Saviour's preaching and miracles, and how He sent forth His disciples by two and two in order to teach such people as they, and they were very attentive. This day we put up part of the frame of the store and prepared for our intended journey.
* Moturoa Island.--Cf. The Letters and Journals of Samuel Marsden, p. 151.
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"Saturday, 31st.--The wind was fair in the morning although it had blown fresh in the night and raised the sea. However, after breakfast and prayers, we got our things into the boat, but when we got out nearly as far as Cape Brett the wind blew fresh and the sea became very rough and our boat tossed exceedingly; then I began to think of the faith and courage of Peter, and of the dangers that St. Paul was in. But the Lord that can still the waves and wind with a word spoken brought us safe round the Cape. We intended to have reached a small bay about five or six miles on the other side of the Cape that night, but the wind came so strong against us, and we were so weary with hard pulling all day, and the night coming on, that with our utmost exertion we were glad to reach a little cove about a mile short of our intended place. We got on shore, being both wet and cold, and had had no victuals since the morning. There were no natives near the place, but we got a fire with Curra Curra's musket and got ourselves warmed and dried and a little refreshment, sung a hymn, and went to prayers to offer up our thanks to Almighty God for our preservation. The four natives we had with us made us a temporary shed for the night, the weather cleared up and the moon shone bright and we rested by the fire all night.
"The morning being Sunday, 1st of August, I was desirous to spend the day among some natives, so we got our things into the boat and pulled to the next cove, it being about a mile distant. When we came to the entrance of the cove, we pulled up about a mile further in a southward direction until we came to the head of the cove, where we found a settlement called Whangamumu, and there we found the people who robbed me at Wythanghe (Waitangi). * I was glad of the opportunity of letting them know I was not angry with them, and that I did not at all hold them at ill will. After I had explained my errand I immediately hoisted my flag, which I took with me for the purpose of distinguishing the Sabbath Day. I then gathered them all together upon the beach, and read the prayers of the Church, and told them our intentions for coming amongst them from England. I told them also that there was but one God for them and us and that He loved all good people, whether they were black or white; and if they would cast away their gods and believe in our God and His book which I had in my hand, that He would save their souls after death and love them for ever; and old Curra Curra, hearing me tell them these things, began to my great surprise to explain them to them more clearly, and the same truths and principles of religion that I had told him at different times before, and I found that he was a better preacher than I was. The people seemed very attentive and desirous to hear, and I hope the time is fast approaching when the light of the glorious Gospel will shine amongst them. In the evening they appointed one of their sheds for us to sleep
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in for the night. We made a fire in the midst of it and sat ourselves by it, and a great number of natives gathered around us, and after we had refreshed ourselves with a little tea we had brought with us--for we could not eat with them; their victuals consisted of fernroot and stale fish--then I read a portion of Scripture, sang a hymn, and went to prayers, and spoke at some length upon the principles of religion and upon the Creation. So we lay down to rest by the fire all surrounded by natives.
"Monday, 2nd.--We breakfasted before daylight and got our things into the boat, and a number of them accompanied us to the waterside and expressed their desires for our return. I made the chiefs a few presents of small tokeys (toki), axes, fish-hooks, etc., and then pulled off to proceed on our journey, and after we had moved about four or five miles along the coast the sea remained tolerably smooth, but the heavens began to get black with clouds and rain, and before we reached the next settlement, called Whangadudu (Whangaruru), it being a little before noon, we got very wet. However, we met with some very friendly natives that invited us to their houses, and we took up our residence in a large open shed that they had for the purpose of making fernroot in. They procured us some firewood and I gave them some fish-hooks for their trouble. We made a large fire in the middle of the shed and soon got all our wet clothes dried and were not a little comforted.
"Tuesday, August 3rd.--In the morning when we went down to the beach to see our boat, to our great astonishment the natives had taken away our rudder hangings; they had broken them off, both from the stern of the boat and from the rudder. They have such a particular desire for iron that no iron can pass without their notice. Then we thought ourselves almost distressed; however, I procured a piece of small iron and sharpened the end of it and made holes with it through the stern-post and through the rudder, and lashed it to with cords, that it might make shift to take us home. After breakfast and prayers being over, another difficulty presented itself; our victuals being all expended we had little or nothing for the remainder of the journey. The natives' pigs were at a great distance and they could not go after them on account of the rain. However, I took my gun and went into the wood, and in less than an hour I returned with five fine pigeons. The New Zealand pigeons are as small as half-grown fowls. We had them dressed and had a plentiful dinner and something to spare.
"In the course of the day some of the natives had gone off unknown to me, and in the evening returned with a fine pig which I gave them an English adze for. We soon had it killed and singed and some of it dressed, and had enough to spare. The weather being wet and stormy and our rudder in such a bad state, we did not think it prudent to proceed any further.
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The Marriages of Philip Tapsell
Philip Tapsell, "the patriarch of the Pakeha-Maoris," was thrice legally married to Maori wives. He was a Dane, his original name being Hans Homman Felk. He was born in 1777, and, after serving in the Danish Navy, joined the British merchant service and took the name of "Topsail," of which Tapsell is a corruption. He was already middle-aged when he entered the whaling trade in the South Seas, and ultimately became a trader between Port Jackson and the Bay of Islands, exchanging firearms for flax and gum.
On June 23rd, 1823, when chief mate of the whaler Asp, he was married at Oihi, Bay of Islands, by the Rev. Thomas Kendall, to a young Ngapuhi woman named Maria Ringa. This was the first marriage between Maori and Pakeha blessed by the Christian Church. The bride, however, shortly afterwards disappeared from her home, and Tapsell was informed some years later of her death.
His second wife, a sister of the celebrated chief Waikato, was married to him by the Rev. Samuel Marsden, at Kerikeri, on April 21st, 1830. To his great grief she died soon afterwards.
About the year 1845 Tapsell was induced to settle among Te Arawa by the promise of a grant of land, trading opportunities, and a bride from among the maidens of the tribe. His marriage to the chieftainess Hineiturama was regularised by the Roman Catholic Bishop Pompallier.
Hineiturama, renowned among Te Arawa as ninth in descent from Hinemoa and a composer of songs, was imprisoned by the Kingites during their last stand against the British in the Orakau pa in 1864, and was bayonetted in the final assault.
Tapsell died at Maketu in 1873. His tombstone, presented by the New Zealand Government, records that he served Te Arawa and the Government well, and died honoured by both Maori and Pakeha.--The Letters and Journals of Samuel Marsden, pp. 553-4 (Corrigenda).
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"Wednesday, 4th.--This morning, the wind being favourable, we rose two hours before daylight to prepare for our passage homeward. Breakfast and prayers being over we got our boat launched and our little things into her. Here were two chiefs upon a visit that possess a timber district about twenty miles further to the southward. This I intended to have visited if we had not had the misfortune with the rudder. I made some enquiries respecting the situation of their timber. They told me it was very fine timber and convenient to the river, and that a vessel might procure a cargo with very little trouble. They invited me very much to go and see it, but I told them I would not at the time on account of our rudder being broken, but that perhaps I might at some future time. I made them each a small present, and likewise to the chiefs of Whangadudu (Whangaruru). We shook hands and parted with them all in great friendship.
"We set off before daylight with a light breeze and showery. We pulled and sailed along the coast until we came to Cape Brett, and after we got around the Cape the wind and rain got right ahead of us and raised the sea very high so that we were obliged to pull with all our might. There was no beach or harbour, nothing but high bleak rocks and the sea beating against them with great violence. Showers of rain and hail came very strong against us, yet we still persevered, and got to Mothudua (Motorua) at 7 o'clock in the evening. We were very wet and cold and had had next to no victuals since 4 o'clock in the morning; however, we were very glad and very thankful that we got safe on shore. The natives made us a fire, and we got ourselves warmed and dried and offered up our thankful praise to Almighty God for our preservation, and rested there the night.
"Thursday, August 5th.--In the morning we got into the boat again and went off for Tippoonah (Te Puna). We reached there about the middle of the day. I found my family and friends all well, and praised God for all His mercies.
"1822. January 22nd.--Arrived the Active from Sydney, with the Rev. Mr. and Mrs. Leigh of the Wesleyan Mission on board for the purpose of forming another settlement upon New Zealand. They came on shore to our house and I brought all their property, with the intent of remaining for a time until more missionaries come out to join them, it not being thought prudent in the present state of the natives to go by themselves. I therefore cleared out the barn, put a window into it, and prepared it for them to sleep in. They accordingly took in their property, set up their bed, and had their victuals with us.
"February 2nd--This week we are employed in sawing boat-planks for the natives.
"February 13th.--As I was going across the bay with a boat's crew of natives, to fetch timber for the Active, I saw the ship Westmorland, Captain Patton (Paton), coming into the bay with
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the Rev. Mr. Butler, Mr. and Mrs. Cowell on board from Port Jackson, and the same day the ship Indian came in with the remains of Captain West on board, he having been killed by a whale upon the coast a few days before. He had struck the whale with a harpoon, and she finding herself wounded turned to attack the boat with her mouth open, and he being in confusion fell over the boat's bow into the whale's mouth and she crushed his loins to pieces; but they managed to get him into the boat again, and he lived about four days in the greatest agony. His body was brought on shore, agreeable to his own request before he died, and was interred in my garden. He had been at our house three weeks before, healthy and well, and dined with us. Shortly before this Mr. Wilson, the chief mate of the same vessel, died on board very suddenly when the ship was lying in the bay, and was interred near the same place. Such melancholy events are solemn instances of the shortness of time and the uncertainty of life. I erected a permanent and substantial paling round both graves at the Society's expense, and painted it white.
"Sunday, 17th.--Had Divine Service in the school-house as usual. Captain Thompson attended, and as many of the brig's company as could be spared. We have frequently captains of ships and boats' crews attend the service so that our chapel is often filled. Mr. Kendall officiated and nothing particular occurred.
"February 26th.--Sailed the Westmorland, Captain Patton (Paton), for Tahiti. Sailed the Active for the fishery.
"March 3rd.--Sailed the Ann, Captain Lowry, for England.
"March 17th.--Sailed the Minerva, Captain Bell, for America.
"April 10th.--Sailed the Woodlark, Captain Moor, for the fishery.
"April 11th.--Sailed the Indian, Captain Myviek, for England.
"April 13th.--Sailed the Queen Charlotte, Captain Henry, for Tahiti.
"April 14th.--Arrived the Vansittart, Captain Hunt, from the fishery.
"April 16th.--Returned the Queen Charlotte, on account of foul weather.
"I have merely mentioned these to give you an idea how the Bay of Islands is frequented by shipping at certain times.
"April 17th.--A boat belonging to the Vansittart came up to the settlement and brought the sorrowful news of one of their boats being upset in the Bay in returning to the ship loaded with potatoes, and five of the hands perished. This accident happened by a heavy sea breaking over the boat, which upset her and emptied her contents; one man kept upon the bottom as she floated bottom up, it is said, for nine hours, until she drifted upon the Wythangi (Waitangi) shore and was broken amongst the rocks; the man was saved by some natives that knew him and conveyed to the ship in a canoe. I consulted the committee upon the propriety
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of going to the Colony to advise with Mr. Marsden upon the formation of a new settlement and other necessary business, and to take our daughter Dinah to school, in respect of which they gave their approbation. The carpenters, William Bean and William Fairburn, having finished their work at the Kiddee Kiddee (Kerikeri) and being desirous of returning to the Colony, and likewise Mr. Samuel Butler wishing to go, which was all sanctioned by the committee, we next agreed with Captain Hunt of the Vansittart for a passage, he being going over to that coast fishing. He would take no money, requested a few articles such as would be useful for his ship and for the furtherance of his voyage, consisting of tea, sugar, nails, boat-plank, etc., the former part of which was furnished out of the Society's store, and I have sawn for him 1,500 feet of boat planks to repair his boats with.
"Sunday, May 5th.--We weighed and sailed from the Bay; the ship's company being in confusion on account of getting the ship on the way, we could not have much public service this day, but I read the prayers of the Church upon the quarter deck and as many of the people attended as could. Captain Hunt was very obliging and gave us full liberty of his cabin, and we had prayers, singing, and reading the scriptures, all the passage over, and service upon deck on Sundays. I read the prayers and Fawcett's sermons, and the ship's company attended in a clean and orderly manner, which made the passage both pleasing and interesting.
"May 22nd.--Spoke the Seringapatam, Captain Jay, off the Heads of Port Jackson. The pilot came on board and we came to an anchor in Sydney Cove the same evening, after a passage of 1,250 miles in 18 days. After I had remained four weeks in the Colony and settled all necessary business, providentially the St. Michael, Captain Beveridge, was ready to sail for Tongataboo (Tonga) with the Rev. Mr. and Mrs. Lawry 2 on board, going to form a missionary station at that island and to touch at New Zealand on their way. The captain also had his wife on board, a very kind and humane woman; I accordingly engaged a passage and embarked.
"June 18th.--Weighed and sailed from Sydney, accompanied by several pious friends belonging to the Colony until the pilot left the ship. She was quite a missionary ship altogether, and we had a comfortable passage of 24 days.
"July 12th.--Came to an anchor in the Bay of Islands off the settlement, and before we went on shore the captain called all the ship's company aft and we offered up our solemn thanks to Almighty God in prayer and praise for our favourable passage and safe arrival, and Mr. Lawry took this early opportunity of cautioning the people respecting their future conduct with the natives while they remained in the Bay. After this we went ashore, and found my family and friends all well after an absence of 9 weeks and 5 days from New Zealand, to our mutual joy and thankfulness.
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"July 13th.--Delivered our boat to Captain Beveridge in lieu of £20 charged for my passage and other property for the settlement.
"August 4th.--Sailed the St. Michael for Tongataboo.
"August 10th.--This week Mr. Leigh and I have been at the timber ground procuring timber. We collected the natives morning and evening for prayers as usual, and at such opportunities I speak to them upon the importance of adhering to the Christian religion for the saving of their souls after death. They will generally hear with attention, especially while I can keep advancing anything new. I am convinced the children would learn very fast in schools if it were possible to have the means of supporting them.
"December 5th.--The St. Michael, Captain Beveridge, called again on her return from Tongataboo after leaving Mr. and Mrs. Lawry to enter upon their labours. Mr. Francis Hall from the Kiddee Kiddee (Kerikeri) took a passage in her to Sydney; several of the brethren accompanied him on board and so bid farewell to our valuable and kind friend.
"1823. January 2nd.--Received the loan of a boat from Captain Brind * for the use of the settlement until he returns from the fishing ground, in which time I mean to build one.
"February 21st.--These last four weeks I have wrought close at the boat, got her all planked, timbered, and the lining in.
"February 27th.--Finished the boat, got her turned up and painted. She is 20ft. keel and 6ft. beam, and well adapted for the purposes of the Mission.
"Saturday, March 15th.--In the beginning of this month Mr. Kendall removed himself and family from the Society's settlement at Rangehoo (Rangihoua) to the district of Kororarioka (Kororareka), and since that period the natives have behaved much better and been much more civil with Mr. King's family and ours.
"Thursday, May 15th.--Arrived the St. Michael, Captain Beveridge, from Sydney with Mr. White on board for the Wesleyan Mission. Mr. and Mrs. Leigh have lived at our house 16 months with all their property taken in and taken care of. We have sat at one table and been as one family the whole of the time. They have also had Luke Wade, and James Stack 3 in with them three months of the time.
"Saturday, 24th.--This week we have been busily employed in embarking Mr. Leigh's people and their property on board the St. Michael in order to go and look for a suitable situation for the Wesleyan Mission, I being requested by letter to accompany Mr. and Mrs. Leigh and Mr. White in search of a settlement.
"Monday, 26th.--I accordingly embarked with them along with Rev. Mr. Butler, Mr. and Mrs. Shepherd, and the same day the captain weighed and sailed out of the Bay of Islands.
* Of the Asp.
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"Tuesday, 27th.--In the evening came to an anchor within the entrance of Whangaddee (Whangarei) River about 70 miles to the southward of the Bay of Islands.
"Wednesday, 28th.--In the morning Mr. Leigh, Mr. Butler, Mr. Shepherd, and myself went up the harbour in a boat. We rowed all day and found no native village and but very few natives, and no place favourable for a missionary settlement. In the evening we returned, and arrived at the ship about eleven o'clock at night.
"Thursday, 29th.--In the morning we set off again in the same manner, and examined the south side of the harbour as we went along, until we reached the head of the harbour, and there we went ashore and struck a fire with the fowling-piece, and cooked some pork and potatoes, and two or three natives that had been fishing came to us. After we had eaten we got into the boat again and pulled up into a small river where we were diverted by the natives, and found a few huts and 20 or 30 natives, where we remained all night and had a good deal of conversation with them and prayer in their own language.
"Friday, 30th.--In the morning we had breakfast and prayers over before daylight. The heavens were black with rain and it thundered and lightninged exceedingly, and much rain fell. After it ceased we got our things into the boat and set off again up the river five or six miles and found a small settlement that had been plundered by the fighting parties. The inhabitants had been much abused, their houses burnt down, and in consequence of it the people had mostly all fled into the interior of the country for protection. This seemed a very promising place for a small settlement with respect to the eligibility of its situation. The land was level and fertile, with wood and water convenient, but too far inland and too remote for a first station. We cooked some provisions amongst the two or three natives that remained there, had some conversation with them, and so returned.
"Friday, 30th.--These three days we have been busily employed in examining the harbour with all its various inlets and branches. We have hitherto found very few natives and but very little good timber. The harbour is about 10 miles long and 3 wide, with many shoals and sandbanks in it. The deep water is chiefly in the north side; the harbour is safe and the anchorage good, but the entrance is crooked and difficult.
"Sunday, June 1st.--Rev. Mr. Butler preached in the morning upon the quarter deck, and in the afternoon Mr. Shepherd and I and several others went ashore and collected all the natives together that we could, which amounted to between 90 and 100 of men and women and children. We told them our reasons for coming amongst them, and likewise some of the principles of religion. Mr. Shepherd and I both went to prayer in the native language one after the other; we also sang two hymns in their
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language, and so returned on board, and Mr. White preached in the evening.
"Monday, 2nd.--In the morning we had a committee of consultation upon the propriety or impropriety of forming a missionary station at that place, and after duly considering the circumstances for and against we came to a conclusion that it was by no means promising for missionary labours in the present unsettled state of the natives, and therefore it was proposed and agreed upon to return and go to Whangaroa.
"Tuesday, 3rd.--At the turn of the tide we weighed and sailed, but the wind being unfavourable and the channel narrow and crooked, the ship got aground upon the point of a sandbank about 5 o'clock in the evening. The tide being about half ebb, and running very rapid, before the cargo could be got out, on account of the fall of the tide she could not be got off until the next tide, so we were obliged to lie upon the sandbed six hours and a half, until the flood tide floated her, when she went off easily at half-past eleven at night and sustained no damage. She was then warped out into deep water and safe anchored until the morning.
"Wednesday, 4th.--At high water we weighed and sailed again and cleared the Heads of Whangaddee (Whangarei) the same evening.
"Thursday, 5 th.--In the morning we had Cape Brett in sight with a fair breeze, and that same evening came to anchor at the entrance of Whangaroa, and in the night tide warped the ship up into the harbour.
"Friday, 6th.--In the morning Mr. Leigh, Mr. Butler, Mr. White, and myself went up the river to George * and Tippooee's (Te Puhi) settlement and found the chiefs and plenty of natives quite willing to receive the Europeans to come and live amongst them, and George came down with us as we returned to the ship. The native village is a very inviting situation for missionary labours as there are great numbers of natives with plenty of land, and wood and water convenient.
"Saturday, June 7th.--We went ashore in the boat and examined various bays and inlets in the harbour, but found no place so suitable for a missionary settlement in the lower part of it as that at George's place that we had seen the day before.
"Tuesday, 10th.--Went up with the boat and made a hut with boards that we carried up with us, and it rained excessively the greatest part of the night so that we thought we should have been flooded out by the overflowing of the river.
"Wednesday, 11th.--In the morning Mr. Shepherd, Mr. White, and myself went and began to clear away the brush off some ground that had partly been approved of the day before as an eligible site for the settlement.
* Vide supra, p. 51.
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"Thursday, 12th.--Mr. Leigh and Mr. Butler came up and approved of what we had been doing, and Mr. Butler and the ship's carpenter went into the wood to cut some timber to make the frame of a house in the native fashion, and we all wrought very hard, some clearing the ground and erecting houses, and others landing the goods. Mr. Butler and the carpenter put up the frame of the rush-house and got it covered in, and I put up the large tent and divided a part of it off, and laid the floor with boards and set up Mr. Leigh's bed in it.
"Saturday, 21st.--The houses being now prepared for the reception of the missionaries, and the goods nearly all landed and taken in, this evening Mr. and Mrs. Leigh and Mr. and Mrs. Shepherd came up to the new formed settlement, accompanied by Mrs. Beveridge from the ship, and so commenced their Mission.
"Thursday, 26th.--This day I arrived safe at home after a troublesome journey of a day and a night accompanied by five natives. I found my family all well.
"Saturday, July 12th.--Since I came home I found much work that required to be done, such as repairing the fences, cultivating the garden, preparing land for wheat, etc.
"Saturday, August 2nd.--This week I have been at Wythangee (Waitangi) sowing wheat. I have sown two bushels of wheat and one of barley, some of it upon patches of ground that had formerly been planted with potatoes and others upon land prepared for the purpose.
"I have remained amongst them until I have seen the work completed. I always make a business, especially in the mornings and evenings, of collecting the natives together for the purpose of prayer and praise, and conveying religious instruction to them so far as I am able; and some of them hear with attention, and others slight it and make a jest of it. However, we cannot but see that religious impressions do occupy the minds of some of them, and that the work of grace is gradually growing amongst them.
"Sunday, 3rd.--Arrived the Brampton, Captain Moor (Moore), with Rev. Mr. Marsden, Rev. Mr. and Mrs. Williams, and Mr. and Mrs. Fairburn to join our Mission, and Mr. and Mrs. Turner of the Wesleyan Mission.
"Saturday, 16th.--This week I have been assisting to land the goods at Pyhea (Paihia) and also forwarding the formation of a new settlement there. I have likewise supplied them with 1,500 feet of boards for that purpose.
"Sunday, September 7th.--After dinner was over we were alarmed with the report of the Brampton being on shore near Wythangee (Waitangi). * Mr. King and I immediately went off with the boat to their assistance. We had a long way to go and a very dangerous passage, for it was blowing a gale of wind at the time. However, it pleased God that we reached her without damage, and found her riding with two anchors ahead, and striking,
* Vide supra, p. 206.
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and the gale increasing and blowing direct on shore. They immediately on my arrival carried out a cargo anchor with the Society's boat. Mr. Kendall's family and Mr. Cowell were on board, but Mr. Marsden, Mr. and Mrs. Leigh * were gone ashore upon Mottaroa (Moturoa), and slept all night in a native hut. I remained on board, and in the morning the ship's bottom was stove in and she became a complete wreck, and the Society's boat continued to attend upon the passengers and the landing of their property the whole week.
"Saturday, 27th.--During these last two weeks I have been engaged in the general work, such as removing the remainder of the stores from Rangeehoo (Rangihoua) to the Kiddee Kiddee (Kerikeri), repairing the schoolhouse, making a new table, etc.
"Thursday, November 13th.--A party of natives from the Covallys (Cavallis) ** came to our settlement, and were very rude and insolent.
"They came over our fences and pushed and struck me several times because I would not give them property. They remained several hours about the house, but did not succeed in getting much. They took away a grindstone by violence; they did much damage to the houses that were unoccupied, and in the night took away 50 feet of boards and our boat's anchor and left her fastened to a stone in the place of an anchor, unknown to us, as she was anchored in the Cove. In the following night she drifted away nearly out to sea from her ill fastening, and a fishing party picked her up, and we had to engage a large canoe and a number of natives to go after her, and with much trouble and expense we got her again. We have had many trials and a great deal to bear with from the natives, although we have no pleasure in recording evil. But thanks be to God the natives that live near us are our friends, and we have reason to believe that they will render us assistance if they know we need it.
"1824. Friday, January 2nd.--This day I have been at Marsden Vale with the boat, fetching over some biscuits to support the school with.
"Friday, 9th.--Captain Clark of the Winslow from New Bedford, being very ill, came on shore to our house to remain for a short time for the recovery of his health.
"Saturday, 10th.--During this week I have gone to and from Wythangee (Waitangi) mostly every day, reaping and bringing home the wheat and barley. It has grown well and yielded an excellent crop according to what was sown.
"Friday, February 13th.--I have been lately employed in making and fitting up new doors to the yards where the old ones were failed.
* The Rev. Samuel Leigh's health had failed, and he was thus compelled to leave New Zealand.
** The Cavalli Islands, so named by Captain Cook.--Cf. The Letters and Journals of Samuel Marsden, p. 83,
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"Tuesday, March 2nd.--During these last three weeks I have been very unwell and not able to do any laborious work, and frequently not able to go out at the door.
"Monday, 15th.--I desire to be thankful to Almighty God that I have recovered a little, but yet remain very weak.
"Saturday, 27th.--This week repaired the boat with a new upper strake, and painted her, and afterwards went off with her in search of potatoes, etc., for the support of the school.
"The boys in the school that attend regularly improve in a pleasing and interesting manner. We hope the time is fast approaching when they will come to the knowledge of the truth as it is in Jesus.
"Tuesday, April 20th.--Went up to the Kiddee Kiddee (Kerikeri), and met the brethren all there for the purpose of consulting upon the propriety of Mr. Clarke 4 commencing to teach a school in the Mission house, and afterwards went in search of the wild cattle with the intention of collecting them and bringing them home, but found it impracticable on account of their being so wild. We remained two days in the woods, and returned home quite weary and fatigued after chasing five or six of them till we could run no longer.
"Friday, 23rd.--On my arrival at home I found that there had been a fighting party at our settlement with Shunghee (Hongi) at the head of them on their way to the North Cape. They had been exceedingly rude, and probably they had taken more liberties on account of our being away from home. They broke into the house lately occupied by Mr. Kendall, tore off the bolts and locks, and broke the windows all to pieces, notwithstanding they were all nailed up and darkened with boards across them. They also tore the weatherboards off the back part of the chapel and went in through the wall, and broke open the closet in expectation of getting the children's clothing and bedding, but fortunately Mr. King had previously removed them. They tore the fastening off the reading desk, and broke the windows. They also came into some of our outhouses, caught some of the fowls, and took away all the working tools they could find. Mr. King was also from home instructing the natives, but he arrived before I did, and requested Shunghee to use his authority for the saving of the property, else God only knows where they would have stopped.
"Monday, May 3rd.--The brethren came from the other settlements to hold the monthly meetings at Rangheehoo (Rangihoua) for the purpose of arranging the language, and after seeing the depredation committed upon the houses we immediately formed ourselves into a committee and passed a resolution to pull all the unoccupied houses down as soon as possible. We immediately set to work and cleared away all the old unoccupied houses and schoolhouse and saved as much of the material as we could.
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"Thursday, July 22nd.--During these last six weeks five natives and myself have been constantly clearing, breaking up, and preparing land for wheat when the weather would admit. I have wrought constantly with them myself the whole time, in order that I might see it well done and the natives kept close at work. We have now got three acres sown and finished, and if it please God to send a favourable crop there will be enough to serve my house the year round and some towards the support of the school.
"Saturday, 31st.--This week I have commenced drawing a vessel of about 55 tons, to be built at Marsden Vale (Paihia) under the direction and supervision of the Rev. Mr. Williams.
"Saturday, August 14th.--Having been at Marsden Vale with the drawing of the vessel and returning home across the Bay, met with the brig Governor Macquarie, Captain Hunter, with Mr. and Mrs. Davis and family on board, and Mr. Davis, sen., come to join the Mission. 5 I went on board to welcome our new friends and brought their children home with me to Rangheehoo.
"Tuesday, 31st.--Went across the Bay to Marsden Vale for the purpose of laying down the vessel, and remained there three days and laid down the lines upon a platform prepared for that purpose at full length, in order to make the moulds by them preparatory to her actual building.
"Monday, September 13th.--I went up the Kiddee Kiddee (Kerikeri) with the boat, in order to accompany Mr. Davis into the interior of the country to look for a suitable place for a settlement.
"Tuesday, 14th.--Left our boat at the Kiddee Kiddee, and went along with Mr. Williams, Mr. Davis, and Mr. Shepherd to a place called Pukanuee (Pukenui) about fifteen miles south of the Kiddee Kiddee, where we found the land good, with timber and water convenient, and the natives tolerably numerous and willing that Europeans should come and live amongst them. We slept all night in a hut as full of natives as we could lie one against. We sang a hymn and went to prayers with them in their own language morning and evening, and returned to Kiddee Kiddee on Wednesday, and on Thursday got home to Rangheehoo.
"Saturday, October 2nd.--I am at present preparing materials for the erection of a schoolhouse convenient to Mr. King's dwelling house, so that he may have the boys more immediately under his eye. I mean also to fit up the chapel with seats convenient, and keep it solely for that purpose.
"Monday, 4th.--Went to the Kiddee Kiddee (Kerikeri) to the quarterly committee, and remained there three days settling the necessary business, and so went from there to Marsden Vale to enquire into the cause of a robbery committed by the natives upon Mr. Williams, and to know what steps would be proper to
* The Herald, launched on January 24th, 1826, and wrecked at Hokianga on May 26th, 1828.
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be taken. We called the principal chiefs together, and after enquiring into the nature of the case demanded restitution, or otherwise Mr. Williams would go away and leave the place. They consented to bring some pigs, mats, etc., and we separated and returned home the following day.
"Saturday, 30th.--This week I have been over at Marsden Vale taking the bevellings of the timbers for the vessel. We are going on with the schoolhouse; we have got the walls up; it is 20ft. by 12.
"Monday, November 6th.--Held the monthly meeting at Rangheehoo (Rangihoua) and afterwards were called up to the Kiddee Kiddee (Kerikeri) to enquire into the reason for the ill-treatment of Mr. Shepherd by Moka, * a chief at that place.
"Thursday, December 30th.--Commenced reaping wheat; my crop is very favourable this year, and the best belonging to the Mission. I trust that I shall have some to spare towards the assistance of those that have none.
"Friday, 31st.--Went over to Marsden Vale to lay down the stern timbers for the vessel.
"1825. Saturday, January 8th.--Finished reaping the wheat and got it all home and in good order.
"Monday, 10th.--Mr. King and I went up to the Kiddee Kiddee (Kerikeri) to hold the quarterly committee, and when we got within about two miles of the Kiddee Kiddee the natives pulling the boat wished to go ashore at a spring well to get some water, and upon landing we were alarmed by nearly running the boat's head upon three human bodies that lay close together by the water's edge among some rushes. They had all been killed either early that morning or the evening before, which was the Sabbath evening. There was a large cooking place near the bodies, and a large bundle of sticks lying close by as if prepared to cook them. There was also a canoe anchored off at a short distance from the bodies with marks of blood in it, but we saw no natives near. The boat's crew were so alarmed that they would take no water, and so we passed on, and when we arrived at the Kiddee Kiddee we were told by the natives there that the dead bodies were three slaves that were killed for makootooing (makutuing) a chief, that is bewitching or praying evil prayers against him that caused his death. Many of their prisoners of war lose their lives in a similar manner, entirely by their superstitious imaginations.
"On this same day, after we had all met together, we dined at Mr. Kemp's, and while we were at dinner Shunghee (Hongi) came in, in his usual civil, quiet manner, and sat down with us, and partook of the dinner also. At the same time there was a runaway sailor sitting upon one of the logs of timber outside of the fence. He had come up from the harbour and offered Shunghee a musket for a girl out of one of the missionaries' houses, unknown
* A brother of Rewha.
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to us. Immediately after Shunghee rose from his dinner, he went to Mr. Clark's (Clarke) house and called out a fine girl that had been a long time a servant at Mr. Kemp's, and had been well taught and was much civilized, and dressed in English clothing, and living then in the same capacity at Mr. Clark's. Shunghee immediately hurried her into the canoe that was then in waiting, and he and the fellow went off with her, without even allowing her to return into the house. We held a consultation upon the propriety of leaving the committee business and pursuing them down the river, but knowing the danger and difficulty of interfering between Shunghee and a musket we were confident that we should have no success.
"Saturday, 15th.--These three days I have been very ill in health and not able to do anything.
"Tuesday, 18th.--Got a little better and went over to Marsden Vale to see how they got on with the vessel, and on my return called at the ship Mary, Captain Lock, in order to get some medical advice and assistance from the surgeon on board. He bled me and gave me some medicine.
"Saturday, 22nd.--During the latter part of this week I have been very ill, and seemingly got no relief from the bleeding or the medicine.
"Sunday, 23rd.--In the morning Captain Duke of the Sisters and Captain Parkins and his surgeon of the Kent, with two boats and crews, came over to our settlement and attended Divine service; Mr. King read the service and a sermon out of Burder's. The captains expressed their gratification in seeing the orderly state of the natives, and in hearing the school children repeat their prayers, and they both subscribed to our school fund.
"Tuesday, 25th.--I was a little better and finished the laying of a threshing floor for Mr. King.
"Wednesday, 26th.--Went over to the Kent to get some medicine that the doctor on board had kindly offered to prepare for me, and also for one of my domestic natives that is sick.
"Saturday, 29th.--I have yet found little or no relief from the medicine. It is a difficult thing to remove an asthmatical complaint.
"There are a large party of natives at our settlement. They are collecting together for the purpose of going to make an attack upon Whangaroa, with the intent of plundering that party. They are very insolent and abusive; they are breaking our fences and robbing our gardens, and stealing anything from us that they can get. The natives of Rangheehoo (Rangihoua) behave remarkably well; there are five or six of the principal men of the village come to our assistance, and they mean to remain about our houses all night to keep watch and protect our property, as they have frequently done before.
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"Sunday, 30th.--This morning the plundering party went off upon their intended route, and we were very glad and very thankful that we should have the opportunity of enjoying our Sabbath without being abused or insulted.
"Monday, 31st.--Mr. Kendall with all his family and property embarked on board the St. Patrick, Captain Florence, bound for Valparaiso. The St. Patrick had been at the River Thames, New Zealand, and had procured a cargo of spars for the Valparaiso market.
"Tuesday, February 1st.--I went on board the Sisters, Captain Duke, by request of the brethren, to procure biscuit, flour, etc., for the use of the settlements and the schools. Both the Kiddee Kiddee (Kerikeri) and Marsden Vale (Paihia) are in want of supplies.
"These things have been a source of evil to this Mission ever since the commencement of it. It has always been much dependent upon the shipping for supplies, which has led the missionaries into troubles and difficulties and brought them under unavoidable obligations to the different captains, and also under the necessity of supplying themselves with various articles at their own expense, which was originally never the intention of either the Society or the missionaries.
"Thursday, 3rd.--This day sailed the St. Patrick, Captain Florence, with Mr. Kendall and family on board, for Valparaiso.
"Saturday, 5th.--This day the plundering party returned from Whangaroa, and at night reminded us of their usual treatment upon such occasions. Amongst other things they took away our grindstone, with an excellent iron axle in it, that the Society kindly furnished me with when I left England, which with much difficulty and many narrow escapes I had preserved until now.
"At present I have a large blister all over my breast which I have had on for fourteen hours, which I hope will be a means of relieving the violent cough and difficulty of respiration that I am so punished with.
"Wednesday, 9th.--Arrived the Calder, Captain Dillon, and as soon as he dropped his anchor a crowd of natives rushed on board as is usual when a ship comes in. They immediately began to steal and take away everything they could lay hold of, and had it not been for Towa (Toa), a son of Tippoohee's (Te Puhi), a civil young man, being on board, that assisted in recovering several of the articles back again, the ship must have suffered great loss. But Shoukie (Hoki), an illegitimate son of that same Tippoohee, who is as much a savage as his brother civilized, watched an opportunity, and stole a musket out of the captain's boat when on shore. He immediately returned on board and detained Towa as a hostage for the return of the musket, which after two days had the desired effect. Two other natives also were detected in stealing a copper
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chain from the rudder; they had cut it asunder and got part of it in their possession, which was recovered. The captain had them brought upon the quarter-deck and examined before a number of natives and sentenced, the one to three dozen, and the other to two dozen lashes, which they received immediately in a regular manner.
"Saturday, 19th.--I continue to be very ill and very weak, although the cough is a little abated.
"Saturday, 26th.--This week we have been much teased by the fighting parties calling at our settlement on their way to the southward.
"Tuesday, March 1st.--I delivered to Mr. Davis 654 feet of boards for the purpose of assisting to build his house at Marsden Vale.
"Saturday, 5th.--Captain Gray of the Ann came over to our settlement and subscribed to the school fund. On this day also, Captain Edwards of the Mercury brig, a South Sea whaler belonging to Mr. Jones of London, went into the harbour of Whangaroa for refreshment, * and as soon as the vessel entered the harbour the natives rushed on board and crowded the decks, fore and aft, and not only stole the loose things, but also began to cut away the ropes, and were very rude and insolent, and as many went down into the cabin as it would hold, and with all the means that could be used by the captain and the ship's company they would neither go out of the cabin nor off the decks all night, and the morning being the Sabbath day the captain used every means to pacify them and keep them quiet, but in vain. The natives kept full possession of the vessel so that neither captain or crew could either shift their clothes or cook any victuals the whole day. About the middle of the day, Mr. White ** came down from the missionary settlement to instruct the natives and converse with them upon religious subjects. He called on board the vessel; and seeing the state she was in endeavoured also to quiet the natives, but without effect. He then went on shore and some of the natives went with him. The captain then, wishing to go out of the harbour, began to get up the anchor, and the wind being light got two boats ahead to tow. No sooner the natives perceived this than they began jumping and calling to those on shore to come on board, and they immediately all commenced in cutting away the rigging, and the sails from the yards, and carrying everything out of the cabin and out of the vessel that they could get hold of, and their shouts and their menaces seemed to threaten everyone with immediate death that stood in their way. The captain being upon the forecastle, a stout native came behind him with a hatchet and struck at the captain's head with great violence, but he providentially happened to stoop down at the moment, and the hatchet went over his head and struck into the windlass bit. The captain then perceived that they were bent upon murder, and he and as many more as
* Vide supra, p. ill.
** A Wesleyan missionary.
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could immediately jumped down into the boats, that fortunately for him were towing the vessel, and pulled off to save their lives. They found then that there were three men left, which consisted of the mate, the cook, and the steward, but the natives were then in such a state that they durst not return with the boats to take them off, but requested Mr. White to go with his boat and endeavour to pacify the natives. Mr. White accordingly went, and, together with threats and promises, on the following day succeeded in obtaining possession of the vessel, and with the three men that were left managed to slip the cable and get her out to sea, completely stripped of all her moveable things and part of her cargo, which consisted of 300 barrels of sperm oil. With all her cabins, windows, and lockers broken to pieces, with very little sails left, no pump-gear, and much water in the hold, no quadrant or compass on board, and a foul wind, being 15 miles from land and with no hopes of reaching any port, they felt themselves under necessity of leaving her, and so made their escape in Mr. White's boat. After they had made the land to the southward of the North Cape, being much fatigued with hard pulling, a party of natives came to them and threatened their lives, and robbed them of everything they had, which consisted of Mr. White's trunk and portmanteau, containing some of his best clothing, with some bedding and two watches belonging to the captain and the mate of the brig, which Mr. White had recovered from the natives that stole them. They afterwards got into the boat and got to the missionary settlement.
"The captain and the ship's company fled to the Bay of Islands for protection, and seven of them remain at my house until they can get a conveyance to the Colony.
"Friday, 18th.--This week I have been exceeding ill of a relapse of the inflammation in my breast. This day a messenger came over from Whangaroa with a letter from the missionaries, stating that their minds were very much exercised by the ill-treatment of the natives, and requesting a meeting of the missionaries at the Bay of Islands, to consult and advise upon the propriety or the impropriety of their leaving the station. Mr. King immediately took the boat and went up to the Kiddee Kiddee (Kerikeri). I was not able to attend on account of ill-health, and when he got there Mr. and Mrs. Turner and family were come overland and had arrived there. The particulars then being laid before the body of the Church missionaries, their advice was that the single men remain at the settlement at Whangaroa until they see the result of what was likely to take place, and then if no better could be done to leave the settlement entirely.
"Thursday, 24th.--The state of my health still remains very precarious; I have had four large blisters successively upon my breast, which together with very light regimen has reduced me to extreme weakness, and the difficulty of respiration still continues,
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and more especially at nights. Yet I have abundant reason to be thankful to Almighty God that the inflammation in my breast is abated."
[Footnotes to Chapter X]
