1974 - Williams, W. The Turanga Journals - 1845 Letters and Journals, p320-365

       
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  1974 - Williams, W. The Turanga Journals - 1845 Letters and Journals, p320-365
 
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1845

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1845

Visit to new stations at Wairoa and Ahuriri--at Turanga, 'Christianity is true but they are become weary'--journey to Opotiki, Tauranga, Rotorua and Waikaremoana--wreck and plunder of the Falco-- increasing sickness among Turanga Maoris--journey to Ahuriri and through Manawatu Gorge to Wellington--conversation with Te Rauparaha at Otaki--return journey round Wairarapa coast in company with Colenso--great laxity prevails at Turanga--Williams disagrees with the 1844 House of Commons Select Committee's land policy towards N.Z.

WILLIAM WILLIAMS JOURNAL TO THE C.M.S.

January 1. Ngatikaipoho are gone to Table Cape consequently there was no Bible class today. Went in the afternoon to see Emma Tumarua's son who has been a cripple for the last two years. He complains that his relatives seldom come to talk with him but he seems to be in a better state of mind than on former occasions. Received a message from the Wairoa requesting me to go and meet a "taua" which is to be here tomorrow from "Te Reinga". The party is coming peaceably and wishes me to be there to keep order.

January 2. Went in to Patutahi at 7 oclock. Found a large body of natives assembling from all parts of Turanga and as usual there were many speeches made by the chiefs. There being no arrival at 12 oclock I went on to Okahuatui but there being no tidings of the party at 4 oclock I returned home.

January 3. Took the class of candidates from Ngatikaipoho. My nephew Samuel read with the Bible class. After breakfast gave out a good quantity of medicine and attended to various wants of the natives. Heard in the evening that the "taua" is near at hand.

January 4. Set off to Patutahi at 7 oclock expecting to be too late for the arrival but found our natives sitting on the plain outside the pa in five companies of about 90 men each. After waiting in this position for about three hours the Wairoa people, about 120 in number, came in sight accompanied by 30 of our people who had gone to meet them. The Wairoa natives came on till within about 300 yards of the pa and then sat down. The five companies of Turanga natives then successively rushed forward and sat down opposite to them. The chiefs spoke very briefly in rather angry terms because the other party had

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JANUARY 1845

come as a taua and not in a quiet way to seek restitution for an injury they had received telling them that on this account they would give no payment. The weather was exceedingly hot and the meeting was quickly broken up the Wairoa natives being invited into the "Pa" and our own people, who did not belong to the "Pa", returning to their homes.

[January 5-10. Station duties.]

January 11. The Candidates for the Lords Supper began to assemble immediately after breakfast whom I took in classes of ten and twelve. They kept me closely engaged till eight in the evening. In all two hundred and thirty came being however a small proportion of the Christian natives the rest staying away from various causes but chiefly from a general apathy which is too prevalent among professing Christians elsewhere. Had an interview with a native who had been guilty of stealing. As far as words go he speaks like one who sees his error.

January 12. Sunday. Had a congregation of about 500 of whom 166 received the Lords Supper. In the afternoon baptized 16 infants.

January 13. A number of people came for medicine previously to their return home. Others again came to speak about various matters which they wished to have settled before I set out for Ahuriri. In the afternoon made preparations for my journey.

[January 14 - February 5. Williams made a journey to Ahuriri and back. His son Sydney accompanied him.]

January 17. [At Nuhaka] The candidates for baptism are reduced to a very small number partly from the number already baptized and partly because those who ought to be seeking after this ordinance are indifferent about it, so that they will not take the trouble to acquire a knowledge of reading which is now expected from them. Eighteen were presented this morning for examination and nine of them were received.

January 18. Sent a note to Mr. Hamlin to Wairoa and proceeded to Nukutaurua at Table Cape. On the way called at Waikokopu the whaling station. Further on we met with a party from Te Mahanga about 40 in number. They were waiting for me to refer a case in which the chief was implicated. While sitting down with them a Wakatane native came up who has been left by a Romish priest at Wakaki as a teacher. Gave a word for his benefit and for that of those who were standing by and then proceeded to Nukutaurua. My first business as this was late on Saturday was to enquire into Daniel the teachers case. Long statements were made for and against but it appeared too plainly that he had been grievously led away by the native priest, giving his assent to certain heathenish practices in the case of some natives

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who were afflicted with sickness. I determined therefore to suspend him from duty until I come this way again.

January 19. Conversed with the candidates for the Lords Supper excluding, of course all those who had taken part in the late proceedings. At our morning service we had a good congregation and 77 persons partook of the Lords Supper. I then went to an Englishmans house and had service with ten of our countrymen who too seldom alas join in any religious service. During the afternoon service baptized twelve children and after service catechized all the christian natives in three classes to the number of 150.

January 20.....Called at Waikokopu and baptized Mr. Ellis's child and one other and got to Wakaki a little before 2 oclock. After the delay of putting up the tent etc. I assembled the natives at the chapel and addressed them particularly on the subtleties of the Romish priest who has attempted to gain a footing amongst them.

January 21. Again addressed the natives at the chapel and then proceeded to Wairoa where I found Mr. Hamlin just returned from the upper part of the river and making a commencement of chimney building. His place is in great confusion, but he has a good prospect of getting over his difficulties.

January 25. After morning prayer we proceeded on in a canoe to Ahuriri and having crossed the mouth of the harbour we walked on to Mr. Colenso's. I was thankful to find that Mr. C. has got over his first difficulties much better than I could have expected. It is a rough untutored set he has to deal with and they will require much forebearance. Mrs. Colenso with her usual activity has made a good commencement with her part of the duties of the station and there is every reason to believe they will do well and be blessed in their work. On the way today we met with two Englishmen and a party of natives from the neighbourhood of Wellington. The report of poor Mr. Hadfield is very distressing. It is said that he was about to be carried back from his station to Wellington to be placed under medical care.

January 26. Sunday. At morning service Mr. Colenso read prayers and I preached. We then administered the Lords Supper to 96 communicants. At school in the afternoon we had a good number of readers and a satisfactory assemblage upon the whole. Preached again in the afternoon.

January 27. Attended school in the morning. It is to be remarked that the present large assemblage is not residing near this place but the people are scattered about in small parties neither are they in the habit of keeping up school as they ought to do, but the larger number who are able to read show that they have received the instruction which schools are intended to convey and that so far the end

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FEBRUARY 1845

has been attained. In the course of the day talked with many of the natives and particularly with Paul Pomare and his companions who have resided here for the last three years as teachers & are shortly to return again to Turanga according to previous arrangements.

January 28. Left Ahuriri on my return and brought up at Ngamoerangi. Addressed the natives in the evening.

January 29. Called upon Tohutohu 1 and Tamairuna the leading chiefs of the Pa, who keep entirely aloof from us. I recommended them now that Mr. Colenso was come to live near them that they might attend to his instruction. Proceeded on our way to Moeangiangi.

January 30. Ascended a very steep hill and went on to Tewanui 2 to breakfast and thence onward to Mohaka. A sick woman was brought in the evening and I was told she was come to seek the aid of a native priest. I taxed the people with the charge but they denied it and said they should be glad to have medicine which I gave them but I doubted the truth of their declaration.

January 31. Walked from Mohaka to Waihua under a dangerous cliff and some of our party had a narrow escape from a mass of stone which came tumbling down from the summit. At Waihua were two or three natives belonging to a heathen party. One of their chiefs lately died and he told his people that he had continued hardened to the last and recommended his people to do the same but these natives say they shall be glad to listen to Mr. Hamlin. Got to Wairoa some time before dark just as the weather had set in to rain.

February 5. Reached home by breakfast time finding my family blessed with a large measure of mercies for which I pray to be thankful.

February 11. Occupied with Mr. Hamlin. 3 Walked to Matawero and communicated with a party which has now been absent from the means of grace for twelve months. The misconduct of one man in ministering to the vices of an Englishman was the commencement of this falling off so sure is it that the wilful commission of one sin is only the prelude to a sinful course. But the evil did not stop here for a large body of natives relatives of the party made this a pretext for keeping away from our chapel and though they say they have always continued to have service among themselves it is very doubtful with what benefit it would be attended when conducted in such a spirit.

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February 12. Read with a Bible Class of 28 from Ngatikaipoho. The natives are very busy cutting wheat of which they have a large quantity and this in part accounts for the absence of many.

February 14. Bible class of Ngaitahupo 26, Candidates 29. Before I had time to attend to the numerous applications for medicine Mr. Baker arrived from the Uawa.

February 16. Sunday. Left Mr. Baker to conduct the services at home & went to Patutahi which I have not often an opportunity of visiting. On the Sunday had an attentive congregation of about 90 and after service I catechized. On my return as the bell for service had rung some time I thought it a good opportunity for going into the Pa to look after absentees, there being a large party who have withdrawn themselves, without any assignable reason. In conversation with the principal person I was grieved to find that many of the party have cast off their profession altogether. He says he believes that Christianity is true but that they are become weary. In fact, they are become spiritually dead.

February 17. Bible class from Ngatimaru 69. Candidates for baptism 47. Attended to many applicants for medicine. My two sons and my nephew Samuel having made their preparation for their overland journey to Auckland we set out together to Patutahi about 5 oclock. It was eight oclock when the tent was pitched when I had prayers and then read with a bible class until half past ten while my nephew Samuel catechized the candidates. Sat up till past one writing letters.

February 18. There was some delay this morning on the part of the natives but at eight oclock the natives [and the travellers] took their departure & I returned home just in time to escape a heavy rain which continued through the day. Read with the bible class of Ngaitawhiri 38 in number and catechized three candidates.

February 23. Sunday. Held morning and afternoon services with the natives and English at noon.

February 24. Began to converse with communicants and spoke with 118 through the day from the tribes Ngatimaru and Ngaiteaweawe. Many more are coming forward on the present occasion than on the last and I hope there is a general improvement in the religious feeling. Catechized also 57 candidates for baptism.

February 25. One hundred and five were with us today from the tribes Ngaitawhiri and Teitangamahaki. Many shewed themselves who have long been in the background. Candidates for baptism six. Several applicants for medicine.

February 26. Sixty candidates for the Lords Supper from the tribe Ngatikaipoho.

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FEBRUARY 1845

February 27. 97 candidates for the Lords Supper from Te Whanauakai and eight candidates for Baptism from Ngaitahupo and 36 candidates for the Lords Supper. A large congregation at evening service.

February 28. Forty five candidates for baptism from Ngaitahupo and thirty five candidates for the Lords Supper.


WILLIAM WILLIAMS TO ALFRED BROWN Turanga 18 February 1845

I write this in a tent being in company with my sons who are now on their way to Auckland ....

How different the tone of the Society's last letter! 4 They have forgotten that they had proposed a lay committee and now the Bishop is to do everything. I cannot but wish the Bishop had taken a little more time for this removal. Both school & college will I fear much suffer in consequence of the change.

Mr. Hamlin & Mr. Colenso are safely located at their stations where I have been to see them & they are both getting on better than I had anticipated, and we may look for improvement in those quarters. But as for Turanga it is all the worse for being left so long without proper attention. I shall be glad of any assistance except that of Mr. W. Davis.

A. N. BROWN PAPERS MICRO MS (ATL)


WILLIAM WILLIAMS TO EDWARD MARSH Turanga 26 February 1845

In looking over some old letters I find you notice a hint from Henry to the effect that compulsory fasting was a part of the system at Waimate. 5 This must have been a mistake arising from want of

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enquiry. While I was at the Bishops through the winter there was practised as much in this way as there has been at any other time. It amounted to this. At breakfast on Friday there was not meat for breakfast as on other days but there were generally eggs. At dinner there was meat just as usual, of which I always partook, but the Bishop & some others did not. There was nothing compulsory therefore in this, neither do I conceive that we have any right to pass judgement in such a case. If abstinence to a greater or less extent be used as an auxiliary to prayer it is a practice for which there is abundant authority in the word of God; but I fear that in most cases as used in the new school it is the fast of the Pharisee, and being unaccompanied with prayer it not only brings no blessing to those who adopt the practice, but it fosters pride to the great detriment of the soul.

Another point is the charge for the education of the missionaries' sons in the Bishops school. Before the Bishop came, when Mr. Taylor had the school, the whole expenses of salaries, buildings, etc. etc. divided among the number of boys which was very small, gave the fearful amount of nearly £100 a head. The Bishop took to the school without knowing what would be the actual cost, and in the prospectus it was stated that the expenses would not exceed £50 for each boy, but when the experiment has been tried it turns out the charge for board & attendance amounts to about 7/6 a week, being £15 for forty weeks, & £12 more for tuition, so that there is no room for impugning the bishops plans in this matter. One way in which this great difference is made in the expenditure is that the cooking for the school, college & the bishops family is all done by one person and at the same time. Now that the school is removed to Auckland I shall be glad to see the nature of its progress. For a time it will have to struggle with difficulties. At Waimate there were accommodations of every kind which had been provided at much expense through a series of years, now everything will be new, and at first the buildings will be very scanty. I have wished that the Bishops removal had not been so expeditious and that he had remained another year, while preparations might be in progress for the new college. But the removal at the time it took place seems to have been most providential, for such is the state of excitement from the disturbed state of the natives, that the operations of the college could hardly have gone on during the present season .... The poor governor is much perplexed. Having a strong desire to promote the interests of the natives in every way, he not only finds his plans are thwarted, but he has an intense anxiety as to the means of preserving the public peace. The Bishop has his anxieties, but they are of a different character. The care of all the churches in this country is a serious matter ... He is proceeding still upon the same energetic mode of visiting personally every station. And the necessity for this, he will find rather to increase with time ....

April 11. I am just returned from a journey of nearly six weeks to Opotiki, Tauranga & Rotorua, which places are all in the Arch-

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MARCH 1845

deaconry of Tauranga. Poor Mr. Brown is still detained in the Bay of Islands by the distressing illness of his only son; I have therefore undertaken this tour to supply his lack of service, the only two clergymen of that district being in Deacons orders . . . Our nephew & niece, C. P. Davies & his wife Marianne are fixed at Tauranga, where their principal attention is to be given to an infant school. Mr. & Mrs. Chapman had just returned to their station after a long absence at Waimate, and Mr. C. in his new position will I trust find his facilities increased. His sphere of labour is very large & Mr Spencer 6 who was appointed to assist him turns out to be an unsuitable character & is to leave the Mission. The Bishop talks of paying us a visit shortly to hold confirmations along the whole of the Eastern Coast from East Cape to Port Nicholson, but he has again a further call which may interfere with this purpose. Our dear friend Mr. Hadfield has long been in a precarious state of health, his complaint being pronounced by his medical advisers to be aneurism. 7 His life therefore hangs as it were by a thread, and his appointed time may be near at hand. He is now in Wellington at the house of a kind christian friend Mr. St Hill, & his station which from its relative position is one of the most important in the country, is left unprovided for. In this emergency the Bishop has determined to spend four months of the approaching winter there. 8

THE WILLIAMS FAMILY MS (AUCKLAND INSTITUTE)


WILLIAM WILLIAMS JOURNAL TO THE C.M.S.

March 1. Thirty six candidates for Lords Supper. Made preparations for journey to Opotiki.

March 2. Sunday. The congregation this morning was about six hundred of whom 284 partook of the Lords Supper. This number is nearly double that of the last administration and may be taken as an indication of better feeling on the part of the professed Christians.

[March 3. Williams left for Opotiki via the Te Kowhai track. He arrived at Wilson's Opotiki station on March 8.]

March 9. Sunday. I am thankful to learn from Mr. Wilson that a large number of the natives who had connected themselves with the

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papists have now joined us. This was very perceptible in the character of the congregation which is now altogether too large for the little building in which they assemble. The services this morning and afternoon were cheering from the attention of the people and 62 Christian natives partook of the Lords Supper. Held English service at Mr. Wilson's house at which five Europeans attended.

March 10. Went with Mr. Wilson to see the new chapel which the natives are erecting, a noble building 63 feet by 33 feet. The natives are working with great spirit. From the effect of this excitement the popish priest 9 is putting up a small building which looks insignificant by the side of the other and for which he is obliged to pay the natives to induce them to work while many of his former followers are working at the protestant chapel without recompense. We then visited some sick natives in the Pa and had a friendly conversation with some of the Pikopo chiefs. Wrote to Turanga.

March 11. Left Opotiki after breakfast, crossed Waiotahe and Ohiwa and reached a small village at the foot of Whakatane hill. Addressed the natives of the place but only few attended.

March 12. Went on to Whakatane to breakfast where in consequence of connection with the natives of Turanga we were received in sumptuous style having an enormous quantity of cooked food provided. As I have to come back to this place in ten days time to administer the Lords Supper when all the Christian natives will be assembled, I hastened on to Otamarora which we reached just after dusk.

March 13. Attended morning prayers and addressed the natives. The party here is very listless as they are in every place which receives but little attention. Endeavoured to stir them up. Went on to Otamarakau to dinner. The teacher here is an interesting, energetic man. Got to Maketu in the afternoon. Found only few of the Christian natives, but a large number of heathens. Read with a class of 8 natives in the evening. I had proposed to catechize them instead but Paul the teacher said "the book is better because when you are gone we can look at the chapter and shall remember what you have said but if you catechize we shall forget what you tell us in a day or two".

March 14. After morning prayers I heard Paul with some of last night's class talking over the explanation I had given on the subject read. Talked with some of the heathen natives and then went onward on our journey and got to Tauranga at sunset. Found Mr. C. P. Davies and his wife comfortably settled.

March 15. Went to Otumoetai to see the infant school which as a commencement is encouraging. Met Mr. Shortland the protector 10 and

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MARCH 1845

talked to him about the natives. In the afternoon went with Mr. Davies to Maungatapu and talked to Taipari about a late disturbance they have had. Went to evening prayers and addressed the natives.

March 16. Sunday. Held morning service at Otumoetai. Congregation 120. Then went & talked with the chief Tupaea 11 who still keeps aloof from that which is good. Went to Maungatapu and held evening service. Congregation 90. Talked with a party of pikopos who were playing at a place of resort in the pa. They are blind in the extreme & cordially follow the papists creed because they are allowed by the priests more license in wickedness. In the evening partook of the Lords Supper with Mr & Mrs. Davies.

March 17. Packed up the natives loads and sent them on at noon towards Rotorua. Addressed the natives in the evening & wrote letters to my children & to Archdeacon Brown.

March 18. Left Tauranga at 6 and rode to the wood and overtook my natives about halfway on the road. We reached the lake 12 a little before 6 oclock and found Mr. Chapman waiting for us with his boat, but having a foul wind it was eleven before we reached the house. 13

March 19. At Mr. Chapman's request I talked with the candidates for the Lords Supper & in the evening again addressed a good congregation in the chapel.

March 20. Walked to the hot springs at Tikitere 14 and afterwards talked with christian natives. Addressed the natives in the evening.

March 21. Good Friday. Mr. Chapman read prayers and I preached. We afterwards administered the Lords Supper to 94 communicants. Addressed the natives in the evening and preached in English.

March 22. The morning was unpromising but Mr. Chapman proceeded in his preparation for going with me as far as Kupenga, having missionary duties to call him there and thence by the coast to Maketu. At noon we set out & almost immediately the rain came down heavily and continued for half an hour. However as we proceeded the weather improved and we got to Tarawera lake in about 4 hours. Here Mr. Chapman has a small raupo house which gave us good accommodation for the approaching sabbath. In the evening I addressed the natives at Mr. Chapman's request.

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March 23. Sunday. Mr. Chapman arranged to go to Rotokakahi, a lake rendered memorable by a murder 20 years ago of a large number of Bay of Islanders for which ample revenge was taken by Hongi soon after at Rotorua lake. 15 My duties were at various villages round the lake. After service at Ruakaria where we were staying I proceeded in the boat to Oneroa. There a small party of about 25 declared themselves Romanists, but it appears pretty clearly that they have been induced to make the profession more by the gift of tobacco than from any principle. After a little conversation went on to Ariki and held a short service. Thence we went to Kauaehape. Here all are heathens & though generally civil one man was disposed to be saucy and overbearing. A little before sunset I reached Whareroa in time to have a short service & returned to Ruakaria.

March 24. Crossed the lake at sunrise to another pa which I was not able to visit yesterday. Here we took breakfast but Mr. Chapman was obliged to give up the idea of proceeding owing to a lame foot. Walked on through a remarkable country, that which is near the lake is picturesque parklike scenery, but the latter part of the journey was over a dreary barren waste of pumicestone gravel in the neighbourhood of mount Edgecombe. It was two hours after sunset when we reached Kupenga 16 and of course the evening prayer of the pa was over but after tea I had prayers with my own natives and many others came to join us. In the course of the evening had a long conversation about the errors of popery at which were present some few of the disciples of this heresy.

March 25. Examined the Christian natives who had assembled from two adjoining villages and spoke to them on the nature of the Lords Supper and then administered the ordinance to 17. I then obtained a canoe and went down the rapid stream of Rangitaheke, 17 the distance of 26 miles to Pupuaruhe 18 the principal Pa of Whakatane where I found Mr. Wilson who had come to meet me from Opotiki yesterday. He had assembled the Christian natives & had been examining them with reference to the Lords Supper.

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APRIL 1845

March 26. Administered the Lords Supper to 32 natives & then went with Mr. Wilson to visit the sick. Addressed the natives at evening prayers.

March 27. Left Whakatane & proceeded up the valley & reached the small village of Ruatoki late in the afternoon just as heavy rain was coming on. A young chief of some note lately died at this place having last year been received into the church by baptism. His afflicted mother being a stranger to the consolations of religion pours out her loud lamentations, night & morning an unsatisfactory relief this which only keeps up the anguish of her loss. I recommended her to seek the more certain comfort of religion for that then if her son is gone to heaven she will follow him thither.

March 28. Heavy showers through the day prevented us from leaving our quarters.

March 29. The weather cleared at noon & we went on to a village about a mile on the road where our accommodations were better but it was too late to proceed further or we should not fall in with a congregation tomorrow.

March 30. Sunday. A fine day and a pleasing assembly of natives being about 40 adults, but the children during our morning service were most of them playing in the river. Catechized the natives after service and then read with a class of eleven. In the afternoon I got the children together much to their surprise and made them repeat Watt's catechism with which they were interested and answered some questions intelligently. We then concluded the day with evening service.

March 31. Went up Whakatane river in a canoe to Tunanui a small village where however it was necessary to stay for the night to give the natives an opportunity of instruction.

April 1. Travelled through the wood over a very rough road to Waikari 19 which we reached in 4 hours & staid for food nearly 3 hours. Most of the natives profess themselves Papists but they were civil and attentive while I spoke to them on two or three glaring inconsistencies of the Romish church. We then walked on for 3 hours & encamped at a deserted village.

April 2. After a walk of 2 hours we came to Maruteane a pa of some size but with scarcely an inhabitant in it. After a time a few natives

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found their way home and towards noon the principal chief who is a christian made his appearance. He is an elderly man of pleasing manners. He enquired what it was my intention to do but at the same time pressed us to stay & as this seemed to be the most important christian party that I had seen I thought it better to remain. I spent a pleasant afternoon answering the numerous enquiries of the people.

April 3. Walked to Te Kape 20 in 4 hours, a small pa which is professedly popish though the natives acknowledge that it has been through the hope of obtaining clothes & tobacco that they have made this profession. Several months ago this party had a quarrel with the natives who are come with me in which 12 persons were killed. This was their first meeting since that event and the parties cried over each other for at least an hour. How far their regard for one another is sincere is another matter. After an ample repast had been furnished we proceeded to Oputao 21 which is the last village on the Whakatane river. Here is a commodious chapel and the few christian natives who have been collecting on the road by which we have journeyed are to receive the Lords Supper. After evening prayers I had a fire lighted on the floor of the chapel and spent about 2 hours with the Christian natives 23 in number catechising them on the subject of the Lords Supper.

April 4. Administered the Lords Supper after morning prayers & then took leave of the natives and set out for Waikare lake which we reached a little before dark.

April 5. The lake which is a large body of water about 4 miles across is a dangerous place to cross except in calm weather. We left soon after sunrise and were nearly over when a strong breeze sprung up which exposed us for a time to the danger of being swamped. However we providentially reached the shore in safety & met with a christian party of natives who wished us much to remain with them on the Sunday. As Mr. Hamlin had been here a few days previously I gave them a few words of exhortation & proceeded on to Whataroa a village midway between this place & Wairoa.

April 6. Sunday. Our party today was not large, only about 25, but the services I trust were profitable.

April 7. Left early on our way to Wairoa but missed the road when we were near the point of our destination, and bad weather coming on we had to spend the night in a solitary position upon a short supply of food but happily we found the shelter of an old house in which we made ourselves comfortable.

April 8. When the fog cleared away this morning we found out our position and made our way to Opowhiti where one of the teachers

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APRIL 1845

resides. He went down the river yesterday with Mr. Hamlin but his people treated us hospitably and in the afternoon we proceeded to Te Reinga. Here many professors of Christianity have gone back and our number in the chapel was only about fifteen, of whom eight are candidates for baptism. These I catechized in the evening.

April 9. Proceeded towards Turanga & slept at Ngamahanga.

April 10. Reached Turanga in the afternoon.

[April 10 is the last entry in Williams' Journal to the C.M.S. for this month but there are daily entries in his Diary for April 1845. Diary entries are in round brackets.]

(April 13. Sunday. Held native & English morning service & then went to Patutahi to evening service. There is an alarm among the natives about an eruptive disease with which a man is affected at this place, fearing it may be the small pox. I am glad to find it is groundless, but I propose to take the present occasion for vaccinating the whole population in this quarter. 22 )

(April 14. Catechized 46 candidates for baptism from the tribe Ngatimaru and read with a Bible Class of 90. Gave out a good deal of medicine & vaccinated 13 persons.)

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JANE WILLIAMS TO CATHERINE HEATHCOTE Turanga 17 March 1845

... so you perceive we have not had much of his [William Williams] company during the summer. If he can remain during the winter it will be a great comfort as well as benefit to his family, and an advantage to his flock, but there is a possibility of his having to go to Port Nicholson and Waikanae for a time. In consequence of the illness of our poor friend Mr Hadfield (who may even before now have been called to his rest) the Bishop is going to spend the next two or three months in that neighbourhood to supply his place, and it is very probable he may require William to succeed him, it being necessary to have an influential person in that quarter of the island. I shall be thankful if his Lordship can find another substitute, but there are not many competent to fill that post. 23

We have now Mr Hamlin and Mr Colenso settled in our district tho' they are not very near neighbours to us . . . Mrs Hamlin and six of her eleven children were with us for some weeks while Mr H. went forward to prepare their abode, and during the same interval our nephew Samuel was our visitor having taken advantage of the same vessel to take a peep at us. But unfortunately he had no such good opportunity to return, and he, with Leonard and Sydney, were obliged to work their way to Auckland overland. They left us on the 17th of February. Their outset was rather inauspicious for bad weather detained them within a few hours of us and they did not dare to return lest their natives should change their minds and refuse to go again with them . . .

The addition of Mrs Hamlin and her family made us rather busy in our small quarters, but we managed better than I had expected. We made sleeping accommodations for them in our old house, [Kaupapa] and being fine weather with the exception of two days or three, the walks backwards and forwards were no great inconvenience, and we were able to keep the little ones a good deal in the garden & veranda. The greatest disadvantage was not being able to have some regular school with our own young ones, and they consequently fell into idle habits which we have found some difficulty in overcoming. They all arrived the day before Christmas day, and Mrs Colenso (my former pupil and inmate Elizth. Fairburn) came from the ship to spend Christmas day with us, and having Mr Hamlin & his eldest son too, we were a tolerable party, larger indeed than our room and table would accommodate, quite a novelty at Turanga. Now we are reduced to our former winter circle, viz. Mary, Jane, myself and the younger ones, and have fallen into our usual routine. We have little Joseph with us who is sadly backward, and not very quick, and we are trying to get him on a little. 24 He and James are very nearly the same age,

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MARCH 1845

and are nice companions. They ought to go to school in another year, but I am afraid the Bishop's school will not be the place for such young boys.

Our native community is I hope improving a little and if they could but have constant superintendence and instruction, we should not have so many relapses and untoward occurrences among them to deplore. Our women's school had well nigh died a natural death, but has rallied a little the last two or three weeks, but we seem to have quite lost the first class which at one time could read and write well and had they but continued and persevered might have been led on to something more. Unfortunately the general idea is that if they can read the words it is sufficient, without at all concerning themselves as to their meaning, or whether they understand the import of what they read. Our infant school is yet in the distance: we collect between 40 & 50 on a Sunday and have them washed, dressed and taken to church, but the instruction they get is but little at present.

Now my dear Kate I do wish you would give me particulars of your proceedings a little oftener .... The dearth of letters is so great that I have taken to reading old ones as I cannot get any new ones and yours written between 1825 and 30 have beguiled some of my lonely moments since my husband's last departure. I can't describe to you the sensations and feelings they have excited, but one effect has been that of making me desire more earnestly to hold more frequent intercourse with one so dear to us and who is (to us) the representative of nearly the whole family--or that part of it inhabiting the northern, hemisphere. I can't give you any news of the dear folks at Paihia and elsewhere for it is so long since we heard any; but you have from Marianne I daresay all particulars respecting all her sons, daughters, & grandsons.

THE WILLIAMS FAMILY MS (AUCKLAND INSTITUTE)


JANE WILLIAMS TO LEONARD WILLIAMS Wakato 20 March 1845

We are thankful to hear you got so far in safety, and we shall be still more so when we hear of your safe arrival at Auckland. I hope you have kept a Journal among you and that in due time a copy will reach Wakato.

Your Father left home on the 4th. Till then we were kept in a tolerable bustle, but since his departure we have been unusually quiet and our evenings rather dull. Jane has been very poorly but is better this week. The day the Emma came in another vessel arrived from Wellington, and the next morning we had letters from Wairoa and Ahuriri and in the afternoon the letters and parcels from Auckland and some also from Mr Kissling ....

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We have just sent off your boxes to the vessel which is anchored just below Rakauwerewere. 25 In your box are two parcels for Marianne which you had better give to Samuel. His sheet is also in your box, and your desk is in Sydney's. Jane has packed up a number of your little conundrums, which we did not know whether you meant to be sent or not. I have put in a set of new shoe brushes for your own use, and I hope you will take great care of them. I should have sent you some blacking too, but for the fear of spoiling your things. I dare say you all enjoyed yourselves at Tauranga, more particularly as Uncle and Aunt Chapman were there. I can fancy what a merry party you would be, and that in such good company, you soon forgot the toils and fatigues of the road....

Tiakitai paid us a visit just before Father left ... He came very mal-apropos the very morning of his (Father's) departure, and being a great man, we were obliged to let him walk in and out and about, just as he liked.

THE WILLIAMS FAMILY MS (AUCKLAND INSTITUTE)


JANE WILLIAMS (SISTER) TO LEONARD WILLIAMS

Turanga 20 March 1845

I must begin my letter by telling you how happy we were yesterday to hear from you from Tauranga .... and very happy we all were I assure you to hear that you had got so far on your long journey. Poor Sydney, I am sorry that the poor fellow was so ngenge, 26 but I hope your stay with dear Marianne and her good husband did him good. Now for a little about home. Father left a fortnight after you did and I hope spent last Sunday at Tauranga. We have been expecting Mr Baker today but the good gentleman has not made his appearance yet and it is eight o'clock so I suppose he will come next week instead. The bees arrived safely at Uawa. Our bees are quite well . . . The Sunday after you left . . . they swarmed while we were at church and took it into their heads to go into the Parae. 27 They settled on a little kowai . . . Your friend Tirarua who was dressed out in your old jacket and Sydney's trowsers and came up I suppose to shew himself, saw them and took care of them till we had done church. Father got them ready to send to Mr Hamlin if there should be an opportunity while he was out, but I am afraid they will be too old to move now. The Cotton 28 is full at the bottom & we put another box on the top before Father left which will soon be full also. They have not swarmed



[Inserted unpaginated illustration]

WILLIAM WILLIAMS 1844
This and the two following pen and ink sketches wiere drawn by T. B. Hutton as illustrations for the unpublished journal of William Cotton, Selwyn's chaplain. The original journal is in the Dixson Library, Library of New South Wales.


[Inserted unpaginated illustration]

INTERIOR OF ST JOHN'S WAIMATE
T. B. Hutton drawing from Cotton Journal, Dixson Library.


[Inserted unpaginated illustration]

MEETING WITH HONE HEKE
T. B. Hutton drawing from Cotton Journal, Dixson Library.


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TURANGA NUI (TURANGA), 29 JANUARY 1838
Pen and ink drawing by William Colenso. The original is in the Napier Museum and Art Gallery.


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TURANGANUI, 25 JANUARY 1869
Pencil drawing by James Crowe Richmond. The original is in the Alexander Turnbull Library, Wellington.


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TURANGA MISSION STATION (WHAKATO), 1855
Retouched photograph from Walter Baldock Mantell's 'Scrapbook' in the Alexander Turnbull Library.


[Inserted unpaginated illustration]

'CHRISTIAN CHURCH AT TURANGA'
Reproduced from the Alexander Turnbull Library's copy of a coloured lithograph by an unknown artist. The Whakato church was opened in 1863. The colouring and the 'native' faces suggest that it was re-drawn in England from a rough sketch.


[Inserted unpaginated illustration]

C.M.S. STATION AT WAERENGA-A-HIKA
Engraving used as letterhead on letter appealing for funds to rebuild the station. The original is in the Alexander Turnbull Library, Wellington.


[Inserted unpaginated illustration]

JANE WILLIAMS c. 1870 [and] WILLIAM WILLIAMS c. 1870
From photographs in the possession of Canon N. Williams, Waikanae.

[Image of page 337]

MAY 1845

but they are an industrious set. Samuel is quite full at the top. I think father will take some honey from it when he comes home, they seem to have got such a quantity. Poor Mary, I am sorry to say, is not quite so industrious. They seem to have got no honey and very few bees but the box is so deep that perhaps we may be deceived. As for poor Jane who was so upset and ill treated over in your room, she has made up for all her losses by her industry. Father put another box under it before he went, but they are not working down yet . . . dear little Marianne is as fond of them as ever, but she has learnt she is not to go and open them by herself. So when she feels inclined to take a peep at them, she comes and pulls us with all her might whatever we may be doing till she makes us take her ....

Your boxes went to the vessel this afternoon, but I hope they will be taken more care of than Coopers things were, coming down. The Captain says Mr Sanderson sold them on the coast . . . Will you try and get us some good envelopes and some nice wafers if there are any to be got in Auckland. We heard last week from Mrs Hamlin. They arrived safely at Wairoa but do not like the place at all.

THE WILLIAMS FAMILY MS (AUCKLAND INSTITUTE)


WILLIAM WILLIAMS DIARY

[There is no Journal to the C.M.S. for May. The following entries are taken from Williams' Diary. Between 1 May to 6 May he was at Baker's Uawa station. During the month he vaccinated 68 natives.]

May 7. Got to Turanganui at noon and catechized 15 candidates. On arrival at home I found letters from the Northward giving particulars of the melancholy state of things in the Bay of Islands. 29 It is a sad dispensation, but yet we know in whom the power lies to still the discordant elements & to make the present confusion contribute to the establishment of his own glory. We have much reason for gratitude that all is peace in this part of the island.

May 8. The natives all away at Wherowhero and it is said are talking of sending away an Englishman 30 because his system of trading does not meet their views. Writing letters.

May 9. Went to Wherowhero to see after the natives & found them bent upon the purpose which had been mentioned but after a little expostulation they gave up the idea and came away.

May 10. Writing in the morning. In the afternoon tried an experiment with Beet root which Abraham squeezed with a lever & boiled

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the juice down to molasses. This is likely to be a valuable acquisition to the natives.

May 13. Rode to Taruheru & called upon Mr. Espie. 31 Went to the natives & vaccinated 24 old & young. Wrote letters in the evening.

May 16. Attended morning school & rectified the classes. Then catechized 19 candidates and proceeded to Taureka. After evening prayers read with a Bible Class of 45. Took the census 32 of the natives of Taureka & Toanga.

May 17. Attended school & made some new arrangements. Catechized 20 candidates & then returned home by way of Toanga where the natives are building a handsome chapel 50 by 25.

May 23. Received letters from the north by way of Opotiki, giving further particulars of the distressing state of things in the Bay of Islands. One of two messengers is a papist from Table Cape, his companion being a protestant. They have their prayers separately but travel together on good terms. The Papist has asked me for a Testament which I gave him. He says he does not understand the prayers he is in the habit of repeating.


WILLIAM WILLIAMS TO LEONARD WILLIAMS Turanga 9 May 1845

We are glad to hear by Samuels letter that you got to Auckland safely. But little did either you or we suppose what was going on in the Bay of Islands. Though indeed when I was at Tauranga I did hear that there was a disturbance, and I was casting in my mind the probable results of a collision between the soldiers and the natives. We are now looking with much anxiety for further accounts, because that which have reached us are two months old, and we are sure that what had happened would be speedily followed by something more serious.

Turanga now seems to be indeed a quiet place and we are very thankful for it. There is no prospect of the peace being disturbed. We had indeed a little commotion yesterday, but it came to nothing. The natives had taken it into their heads to send away Peter from Werowero. Their complaint against him was that he does not 'hoko' 33

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MAY 1845

according to their liking, and also that he sent a vessel to trade at Tokomaru, not allowing her to buy anything here. I found it necessary to go there, & for a time the natives were very urgent upon the point, but at length they gave in. I hope you will look out for the vessel which takes this & write by her and send all the news of every kind you can collect. Studies I fear will get on badly. Indeed if Auckland is fortified and there is any reason to apprehend an outbreak there, it seems doubtful whether you will remain at Tamaki. I can only pray that you may be preserved from every evil and that order and quietness may be soon restored.

You would be much interested just now with little Marianne. She is at the most engaging age. All life and spirits & adding to her little vocabulary every day. She trots about the garden and gets to the bees whenever she is able. Our new home gets on slowly; 34 at present indeed it is at a stand so that it will afford no accommodation till the spring is well advanced.

THE WILLIAMS FAMILY MS (AUCKLAND INSTITUTE)


WILLIAM WILLIAMS TO SYDNEY WILLIAMS Poverty Bay 10 May 1845

Among the natives in the whole of this district, things are going on just as they used to do. Very different from what has occurred at the Bay of Islands. How sad it is that the natives should have been induced to take such steps as will surely cause their own injury. And how distressing is the case of numbers of small settlers, who having laid out all their little property on their farms in the hope of getting a livelihood, are now reduced to beggary. We have had a visit from James Hamlin again who came for his fathers cow, with which he succeeded better this time, and got it safe to Wairoa. Very little has been done to the house since you left. Cooper is now putting up a windmill which promises to succeed better than the last. It is after the principle of one which you perhaps saw at Matata, only it is a little better workmanship. If it succeeds the natives will be able to have mills like it as it is very simple. The natives are likely to have sugar to eat with their flour. It is easily made from beet root by first pressing out the juice & then boiling it down till it is of the consistence of molasses. But to turn to something of more importance. The events which have been passing at the Bay show strongly the importance of regarding this world as not our home. We have here no abiding city. And I hope that you may so feel the force of this that you will always seek to have an interest in that city which hath firm foundations whose builder & maker is God.

THE WILLIAMS FAMILY MS (AUCKLAND INSTITUTE)

[Image of page 340]

WILLIAM WILLIAMS JOURNAL TO THE C.M.S.

[From 1-10 June Williams was at Whakato, he vaccinated 74 natives at Patutahi, 6 June (Diary). On 11 June he set out for Table Cape.]

June 12. Read with a Bible class of 24 and then walked on to Whareongaonga where I met with a boat going on to Table Cape and took passage in her. We reached the village of Okuiarenga before dark. Here the natives are well disposed, but I heard a bad account of some of whom I had hoped better things. Took a census of the people of the village who in the summer are to leave this district & return to Ahuriri which is their home. 35 Addressed the natives at evening prayers.

June 13. Attended morning prayers & school and then went to Wangawehi, which is the principal place, where also is the chapel for general assemblage. Held evening service and then took a census of three small tribes.

June 14. At morning school I endeavoured to rectify some matters which needed alteration. After breakfast went to see Daniel the late teacher. He is a native of pleasing temper and has proceeded well for three years but of late he has been entangled in the wiles of satan mixing up with Christianity a great deal of native superstition. On my last visit in January I talked with him on the subject; I had hoped now to have restored him to his post. But this I found could not be. He still clings to his error and rejects all remonstrance and after another fruitless attempt I left him, but of the natives who had followed him in the first instance some have come back again. During the remainder of the day I was engaged with the communicants speaking severally with each individual.

June 15. Sunday. Held morning service and administered the Lords Supper to 102 communicants. In the afternoon I catechized the natives generally and held evening service. In the evening I catechized about 20 candidates for baptism who are for the most part very ignorant.

June 16. Left Table Cape and met Mr. Hamlin by appointment who had spent the sabbath at Nuhaka. He went on with me to Mahanga and we had a grateful opportunity for converse upon the affairs of the mission. At Mahanga I had occasion to speak to two christian natives who for the sake of present gain have been ministering to the vices of the Europeans connected with the whaling stations in this neigbourhood.

[Williams returned to Whakato, 18 June.]

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JULY 1845

June 30. Heavy rain prevented the meeting of the Bible class. In the afternoon went to the Pa to see Taituha te Pahu who is seriously diseased in the liver and not likely to recover. He has been one of the most consistent of our christian natives and now therefore derives the comfort of religion. Met with a large party of East Cape natives who are on a visit here and have been passing round to all the villages in succession. There are about 100 persons. Their professed object is to lament over their deceased friends, a custom which has prevailed in this part of the country more than elsewhere, but their lamentations are altogether a form and the visit is rather one of conviviality with the living and not exceeding an abundant supply of pork, potatoes and flour, is quite harmless.


JANE WILLIAMS (SISTER) TO LEONARD WILLIAMS

Turanga 26 June 1845

I am glad to hear that Sydney is not so stout as he was. Father says he and Mary ought to have the fast days and you and I the feast days .... We shall be very glad to get our things from Auckland. We are in great distress for shoes . . . James, Maria and Kate are all but barefoot. The Bakers are in the same predicament, Sam, Fred, Joe and Hal have been quite without like little Maoris for the last three months & are become quite used to it. 36

WILLIAMS MS COLLECTION (GISBORNE)


WILLIAM WILLIAMS JOURNAL TO THE C.M.S.

[During July Williams was at Whakato. From July 11-15 there was an Eastern District Committee meeting attended by Williams, Hamlin, Kissling, Stack and Baker. His Diary for July 12 has this entry: 'Walked to the Pa to see the carved house'. This is Williams' first reference to what was probably the famous carved meeting house at Orakaiapu pa--Te Hau ki Turanga, commenced by Ngati Kaipoho in 1842. The chief who planned and directed the carving was Raharuhi (Lazarus) Rukupo. The house, now restored, is erected in the Dominion Museum, Wellington, see T. Barrow, A Guide to the Maori Meeting House Te Hau-ki-Turanga, Dominion Museum 1965. Diary entries are in round brackets.]

July 31. Went to visit several sick natives in the pa. The late wet weather has been very trying to many, some have been removed by death and others are in much danger. About 30 candidates for the Lords Supper from Te Whanau a Kai. In the afternoon had service at the chapel. On returning home I found a letter from Table Cape inform-

[Image of page 342]

ing me that the ship Tyne 37 from England with my supplies was a total wreck at Palliser Bay and that an American brig from Port Nicholson with a few supplies 38 for me from thence was wrecked at Table Cape on the night of the 27th and that the natives have plundered and destroyed a large portion of the property on board. I proceeded to make immediate preparations for a journey thither.

August 1. Left home at eight oclock with four natives and walked to Taikawakawa and from thence proceeded by canoe to Paritu.

August 2. Arrived at Table Cape by noon when I found that the account was but too true both of the wreck and of the depradation of the natives. The vessel of 280 tons 39 was driven up to the top of high water mark on the middle of the night of the 27th and on the day following shortly after the owner and several of the seamen had left the wreck with some valuable property they were carrying to a settlers house, a number of wreckless Englishmen belonging to a neighbouring whaling station began to plunder the cargo which till this time was without damage, the hull of the ship being entire. A few natives were present and joined with them and as soon as the news had spread that the plunder had commenced all the natives who were near, most of them being professed christians, joined in the work of destruction and pillage. In the course of the two following days some of the better disposed brought back a quantity of the plunder and wished to give it up freely to the owner. In this they were overruled by three leading men who are heathens and the demand was then made for 7 casks of tobacco which was given in return for a portion of the property. In the present state of affairs, therefore, a number of christian natives have received a large payment for the restoration of the property they had stolen but a much greater portion of the cargo is still in the hands

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AUGUST 1845

of those who had possessed themselves of it. Of my own supplies I can hear nothing as yet except of one trifling article. Mr. Williams the American Consul, a highly respectable man, is the owner of the cargo and therefore the great sufferer. I have called a meeting of the natives for Monday and in the meantime I hold no intercourse with those concerned in the depradation.

August 3. Sunday. In consequence of the state of affairs I could not go to the chapel and our service was commenced in a small house with only seven individuals which afterwards increased to about twenty, by a small party from Turanga who were staying in the neighbourhood. Held English service at the house where Mr. Williams is staying and had some of the crew for a congregation. The dangers through which they had recently passed served as a solemn subject for reflection even to the most careless sinner and calls aloud for preparation to meet that more certain danger from which none can escape who are strangers to the gospel. Returned to my encampment and held evening service with a small party.

August 4. A number of natives came together by about ten oclock and a long debate took place which for the most part was favorable to the restitution of the stolen property. At the conclusion a portion of goods was given up which was in possession of the people on the spot and the Consul and myself were requested to proceed to another village where another portion was restored. Some of the natives however say that where one article is given up two are retained by the same individual and so I fear it must be from the immense quantity which cannot be heard of.

August 5. Went to another village by appointment where a large heap of goods was brought forward. We then walked to a distant point of the Cape from which we returned late with a few trifling articles. At prayers with the natives I spoke very closely on the utter fruitlessness of any profession of Christianity so long as they are minded to retain any of the stolen property. This address produced a large collection of glass beads which were handed in from the necks of the plunderers, but from the statement Mr. Williams makes there must be an immense quantity of goods scattered among the whole population of this neighbourhood. Finding that I am not likely to succeed in obtaining more, I have concluded to return tomorrow. 40

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August 6. Again addressed the natives of the village at which I am staying urging them by their christian profession freely to give up all which still remains in their hands. A little more was brought back including a box of soap belonging to myself. Left Table Cape and got to Mahanga at noon and then walked on till dark encamping in a secluded dell by the side of a stream of water.

August 7. Walked on to Whareongaonga and thence to Taikawakawa and proceeded thence four hours in the dark and reached home in the evening.

(August 8. Mr. & Mrs. Colenso arrived here on the 6th from Ahuriri, 41 the latter being about to remain for some time with us. Went to the Pa to visit sick natives & then returned to write letters to Auckland.)

[Colenso returned to Ahuriri on August 13.]

August 17. Sunday. Held native service morning and evening. At the morning service administered the Lords Supper to 126 natives from the inland tribes, making together with the natives who received it on the 27th of July the number of 298. Surely in so large a number there are many who really desire to give themselves up to the service of God. In the afternoon I baptized 14 children.

[Williams remained at Whakato for the rest of August. He noted in his Diary the increase of sickness among the natives.]

(August 25. The influenza is very prevalent among the natives and there has been much sickness generally and several, both old and young, have been removed by death. May the warning be received by the living to their profit.)


WILLIAM WILLIAMS TO HENRY WILLIAMS Turanga 4 July 1845

We were most thankful to receive late news from you by a vessel direct from Auckland a few days ago. From this source we had the account of the illness of Edward, Jane & Thomas and of the late trouble at Mawe. 42 What a season of trial you have all been called to pass through, which has only given occasion to see more forcibly the merciful care of our heavenly father, which he is ever extending

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JULY 1845

to his children. You will now sing of mercy more loudly than many who have had an equal share of mercy, but have not been brought to feel it.

The poor natives are objects of pity & yet I cannot but wish that they may have a full measure of chastisement, to answer the purpose of making them better behaved for the future. Then the castigation which will fall upon the heads of a few will have a salutary effect through the country. There are many traits in Heke's character which we cannot but admire and the Pakehas seem to recognize this at Auckland. There is much that is ingenuous about him, and yet I hope to see him a leading man on the right side. Kawiti is a very different man. He has taken up arms without any pretext but that of a savage thirst after the property of those from whom he has received much kindness.

That bright article Hodgkinson who had been rusticating here for some months but had returned to Kororareka just in time to be in the affray, is come back again to us ... . He gives a noble account of the vicious habits of your friend Phillpotts. 43 Mr Kissling has some little knowledge of this individual. At Chiltenham he was lodging in the same house, Mr P. having broken his leg from a fall from his horse in hunting, and before he was well recovered he would go out again on horseback, and Mr K. was on that occasion much shocked by the profane language uttered by this Bishops son.

I asked you in my last letter about your last bill from Dixon 44 whether the amount was £126, because I have been charged with this sum which clearly does not belong to me, and Mr Coates still continues to keep back my supplies because he concludes I am in debt £847, when I do not owe one sixpence. The inconvenience is not particularly great, and he will compel me to be economical against my inclination. Mr. Colenso has been very seriously ill with a fever, which brought him I believe close to the grave. 45 The rest of our party is well & the natives are quiet.

THE WILLIAMS FAMILY MS (AUCKLAND INSTITUTE)


WILLIAM WILLIAMS TO LEONARD WILLIAMS Turanga 4 July 1845

We were very glad to hear that the school is going on regularly though it would be much better if you had more of it. I fear you will get into sad lazy habits. While you have so much time upon your

[Image of page 346]

hands you should have a fixed portion for general reading, which you can but carry into effect if Samuel will allow you to sit in his room for that purpose, for if in the room with a number of boys it will be impossible to do much ....

We have had a kitchen put up where the kauta 46 stood which is a great present accommodation, and at the end of it are the great & small oven, the fire place & copper. In other respects Whakato is as it was except that there is very much paruparu. 47 The natives have had much feasting of flour lately, which on state occasions is boiled & then poured into a canoe to be served up. Since you left us I have had morning school with the natives at Kaupapa. There are a few who take an interest in it but our number seldom exceeds thirty. It is a mahi hoha 48 to most who cannot submit to the drudgery.

THE WILLIAMS FAMILY MS (AUCKLAND INSTITUTE)


JANE WILLIAMS TO MARIANNE WILLIAMS Turanga 5 July 1845

The vile accusation against Henry 49 made William very pouri: he was quite afraid he would (as heretofore) take no notice and remain silent thereby giving occasion to say that the charges could not be repelled & after a restless night he made up his mind to write to the Governor on this subject. Before, however, he could put his design into execution, we received the copy of his Excellency's handsome letter to your husband, which made him quite ora. 50 We sent a copy to Mr Kissling who had been much annoyed by the reports he had heard from the whaling station and had taken up the subject quite warmly, and Wm. also sent a copy to poor Mr. Hadfield--that is of the one intended to be made public.

We have written many letters to you which I hope will find their way to you sooner or later. My last was to urge you to send some of your daughters to us as soon as practicable. Since then we have heard that everything is quiet at Tauranga and that Catherine & Caroline are there. This has greatly relieved my mind, but nevertheless I hope that you will let some of them come and that as soon as possible. I wish

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SEPTEMBER 1845

you and dear Jane too could share the tranquility we are permitted to enjoy, and which we cannot too highly prize . . . We are very sorry for the poor boys; it must have been so mortifying to see such destruction of what had cost them so dearly. I hope they will not be disheartened and deterred from making fresh exertions when the state of things will permit. 51 Tell them with my love they must follow the example of the bees, who set to work to repair damages in such good earnest as soon as the coast is clear . ..

Your box we received by the Emma and are thankful for the books so wonderfully rescued. Joseph was quite excited by the arrival & the "whole pencil" seemed to be the greatest treasure the box contained. He is quite well but much troubled just now by chilblains which have been increased by the weather preventing the usual quantum of exercise. He does not however stand alone in that trouble. Can you lend us Mrs Flack's Grecian Stories or any other simple histories-- Miss Edgeworth's Early Lessons--Harry & Lucy, Frank and Rosamond? 52 And can you spare me a French Bagatelle for Maria . . . .

Mrs Colenso is expecting to be confined about September. If they are not able to get a respectable white woman to be with her, I have proposed to her to come here--but don't let that prevent your sending as many of your children as you can and will spare. We shall give Mrs C. a room in our store, his restless spirit will not let him stay long with her I expect.

THE WILLIAMS FAMILY MS (AUCKLAND INSTITUTE)


WILLIAM WILLIAMS JOURNAL TO THE C.M.S.

[Williams remained at Whakato throughout September. Diary entries are in round brackets.]

(September 13.....A large party from Wairoa who had brought 8 new canoes for the natives of this place, came up to the Pa to make a general excitement.

September 14. Sunday. A large congregation including the Wairoa natives at morning service. A good attendance also at school and at evening service, but many came to church rather to see the strangers than from a better motive.)

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September 19. Catchized candidates for baptism during the whole of the day. They are principally such as were rejected a year and a half ago and have persevered with general regularity in the interval. The weather is cold and wet but a large number of natives came from a distance.

September 20. Concluded the examination of candidates having passed for baptism 132. Few have been rejected of those who have been of long standing. In short the circumstances of their perseverance is an argument in favor of their sincerity, and most of the more doubtful have long ceased to attend. In the afternoon addressed a few words of exhortation and fixed the names of the catechumens.

September 21. Sunday. A fine cheerful sabbath which accords with the services of the day. May the Sun of Righteousness arise upon this people with healing in his wings. The natives mentioned yesterday were baptized at morning service.

September 22. A large number of the christian natives attended the catechitical classes today previous to their return home. They were to the number of 120 and then they made many applications for medicine. There were also 17 candidates for baptism.

(September 23. Went to several villages to visit sick natives and baptized a poor woman who was unable to attend the baptism on Sunday. On my return I learnt that Mrs. Colenso who is staying with us has given birth to a son. 53 )


JANE WILLIAMS TO LEONARD WILLIAMS Turanga 12 September 1845

Mr Hodgkinson is going at last to try the powers of his unstable vessel and as he has got some rigging for it from the unfortunate American brig, and 3 of the Consul's seamen to navigate it for him, we think there may be some chance of its reaching its destination. I have been urging your Father and Sisters to write, but they, one and all, say they have written a great many letters from time to time and never receive any in return so they do not feel much inclined to avail themselves of the opportunity . . . We were much tantalized and disappointed last week by the arrival of the Lady Leigh direct from Auckland without a line from anyone of you, but being willing to make all due allowance for you, I conclude you were not made acquainted with her intended movement, but how was it you did not write by the Emma in June?...

We have had a very fine winter and an early Spring, consequently the garden is looking quite green and pretty, and the bees have been so active that we expect some swarms very shortly .... We begin to

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talk of your return as no doubt you both do also. I hope your tent with all the etceteras have been taken care of, that you may not be at a loss in case you have to come back overland, but I hope you may be fortunate enough to have an opportunity by sea. We are anxious to know when the Bishop is likely to come this way.

We have heard that poor Mrs Dudley was seriously ill 54 when the Lady Leigh left, which has made me anxious to hear some authentic intelligence about her; indeed we should be very thankful to hear a little news about all our friends ....

It will be necessary for you & Sydney to bring a supply of shoes with you and you had better consult Samuel about the quality and number: do not buy shop shoes but get them made for you if possible, 55 and you had better also purchase a dozen of socks for yourself & Syd either blue or unbleached, and strong ones. Remember these two items or you will be in distress.

THE WILLIAMS FAMILY MS (AUCKLAND INSTITUTE)


WILLIAM WILLIAMS TO EDWARD MARSH Turanga 26 September 1845

The state of things in New Zealand at this time is most unquiet. You will have been kept informed by Henry of all that has occurred at the Bay of Islands during the last six months, and also that up to the present date there is no nearer prospect of the termination of existing evils. You may also have heard that it is part of the policy of the New Zealand Company as a palliation of the amount of evil they have inflicted upon many unfortunate settlers, to attribute all the blame of the present evils, first to the Governor, then to the Protector of Aborigines & lastly to the Bishop & missionaries. 56 This same spirit

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has also infected some of the military and naval men, among whom the most flagrant case was that of the unhappy Lieut. Phillpot, in his abuse of Henry for the purpose of hiding his own mismanagement in the unhappy affair at Korarareka. This spirit of dissatisfaction it seems is likely to result in the recall of the governor, who is perhaps too good a man to have to do with so much iniquity, and of feelings too sensitive to enable him to stand against the torrent of abuse which is daily poured upon him. The recall of the Bishop and the missionaries is not so likely to follow, unless the government should adopt the policy recommended by the Com. of the House of Commons, which so far as Lord Stanley is concerned will not be the case. I think too that the said Committee if it could have foreseen the determined struggle which the natives are able to make, would have paused before it came to so dangerous a conclusion. If we are to have a new governor I trust he may be a man of moderation. A religious man like Captain Fitzroy, or one whose chief desire may be the well being of the natives, we can scarcely expect. It is a very happy circumstance that the disturbances are confined to the northern parts of the island. At Auckland the natives are well disposed, and at Turanga there is not even the slightest excitement. We are not however free from the existence of an improper spirit wholly inconsistent with Christianity. This has shown itself particularly at Table Cape, where an American brig was lately driven on shore, and a large portion of property plundered principally by christian natives ....

In the natives generally there is much encouragement. Where they receive anything like reasonable attention, there is a large number who seem to do well. While some therefore bring forth fruit into perfection, we may be satisfied that those trees which our heavenly Father has not planted may be rooted up. The matter I have mentioned at Table Cape has been the means of sifting out much chaff ....

I am now waiting at home for news from Auckland from the Bishop who is coming down the coast to hold confirmation. When I hear I propose to take a journey which is to extend as far as Palliser Bay, having to administer the Lords Supper to some of the natives there. We hear that Mrs. Dudley is in a dying state in the Bishop's house at Auckland. She has been a great stay to her husband in his very serious trial, and now poor man he will be in a trying position, for his mind is weak and ill able to contend with the trials which may fall to his lot.

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Mr. Kempthorne I am told is in difficulties. The Bishop had taken him by the hand and was giving him much to do at the new College, but the work was so much neglected that it is now given into other hands. He will have to learn that honesty is the best policy. His poor wife I much pity for she appears to be a very amiable character & quite worthy of her late father.

Our family circle is happy in the enjoyment of much health and many comforts. The two eldest boys are away at Auckland, and their two elder sisters are with me being daily most actively employed in domestic duties, and also in giving instruction in the native school & to their younger sisters & to James & their cousin Joseph. They have just now the agreeable society of Mrs. Colenso, who was brought here to be under Janes care during her confinement, which has just taken place. The want of more extensive society they do not at all feel, being perfectly happy in their constant occupation. Our situation is also very pretty and enlivening to the spirits, and a good garden with several hives of bees afford much relaxation and amusement during the intervals of more weighty employment.

THE WILLIAMS FAMILY MS (AUCKLAND INSTITUTE)


WILLIAM WILLIAMS JOURNAL TO THE C.M.S.

[Diary entries are in round brackets: October 2-11 Williams was away at Baker's Uawa station where he found the general conduct of the natives 'highly satisfactory'. He administered the Lord's Supper to 121 and passed 22 out of 24 candidates for baptism. October 12-19 at Whakato.]

October 20. Left home on a journey to Ahuriri and Palliser Bay & reached Taikawakawa at one. Many natives were come together to meet me there. The class of candidates for baptism was 55, there being many who have not been present before. But how many are really desirous of obtaining instruction in the way of life is doubtful. The christian natives whom I catechized were in number about 40. In addition to which we had an enquiry into some disputes existing in a neighbouring village. Continued our journey till dark nearly reaching the summit of a difficult hill.

October 21. The weather was threatening but we proceeded having occasional showers which cleared off in the afternoon, when we got to Nuhaka. Here were scarcely any natives except Marsden the Teacher who is come to plant potatoes, his fixed residence being at the whaling station at Waikokopu. His mind has been much led astray of late, from a desire to obtain property, and he and another chief have had a whaling station of their own, contrary to my advice, which they intended to be conducted entirely by natives. They have had however, three

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Englishmen with them who have done them much injury and I am thankful that they now see the evil and have concluded to give up their scheme. Marsden proposes to come back to Nuhaka to rebuild the chapel and to get the people together again to one common centre. (Rheumatism in shoulder & knee.)

October 22. Went on to Whakaki where the young chief pressed us much to remain overnight. In the afternoon arrived at Wairoa. Mr. Hamlin was from home.

October 23. Mr. Hamlin returned having heard of my arrival and we had converse together upon some matters of consequence. Towards noon we proceeded to Mohaka and got there just at dusk. A large party from Table Cape who belong to the place but who had left formerly through fear of the Waikato natives, are now returning and will make the place of some consequence. It was pleasant to meet with a party of christian natives at evening prayers which I have not done before at this place.

October 24. Went on to Waikari before breakfast walking under the dangerous cliffs, the rain falling most of the time. The weather being decidedly bad we were glad to remain at Waikari. The population is very small. In the evening catechized the few there were together with my own party.

October 25. The weather fine after a heavy fall of rain. Continued our journey to Aropaonui and prepared for the sabbath.

October 26. Sunday. There were only six natives to attend service besides my own but we had a quiet and profitable sabbath.

October 27. Went on to Tangoio to breakfast where there is a large population. The people wished me to remain till tomorrow, but it was necessary for us to proceed. At Waihinganga the people were again pressing for us to stay. Many persons in the last two places are making profession of Christianity who have long refused to join with us. Walked on over a toilsome road of loose gravel and got to Mr. Colenso's house at Te Awapuni at eight oclock. The place was truly solitary there being only one native & one European within the distance of four miles.

October 28. Went on to Te Ngaue 57 where is a large party at present busily occupied in planting. Waited for a little food and walked over the plain till dark when we reached a small village on Lake Poukawa. We were much indebted to the chief Hapuka who sent a guide after us and thus saved us much travelling through the deep swamps. The weather the latter part of the day was wet with strong southerly wind in our faces so that we found the shelter of a warm house very grateful. The people came together to prayers but it did not appear that there

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were more than three or four professors of Christianity, one of whom is a papist.

October 29. Went on to a small village on an island in the lake Rotoatara which has been the scene of some desperate conflicts between these people & the natives of Waikato. 58 The latter succeeded in taking the pa and kept possession of it for some months, but were again driven away with loss by these people assisted by the Ngapuhi chief Te Wera from Table Cape. Here we obtained a guide & passed over a large extent of unoccupied grass land and towards evening we arrived at the small village of Waipukurau. Here we found an interesting party though few in number but they seem to have more spiritual life among them than many and the village though recently formed presents the pleasing sight of a well constructed chapel. The whole of this district is a very difficult one to attend to. The population is small & is extended over a country miles in length.

October 30. We are kindly furnished with a guide to Manawatu and after addressing the natives at morning prayers, we proceeded over the vast plains of Ruataniwha and in the evening encamped at Te Whiti where the Bishop spent a sabbath this time three years. 59

October 31. Travelled through the forest at the head of the river Manawatu and after a walk of nine hours we came to the first village Hautotara 60 from whence we hope to proceed by canoe to the coast. Here are three christian natives whom I baptized three years ago at Ahuriri. There is also a small party at a short distance down the river-& they are urgent that I should remain over Sunday with them, a request which is but natural if they are sincere in wishing for instruction. During the afternoon we had an opportunity of observing a partial eclipse of the sun.

November 1. Addressed our little party at morning prayers and after breakfast catechized nine persons most of whom are well informed. Mended clothes and set Lewington and Ebenezer to wash. Catechized the natives in the evening.

November 2. Sunday. Our party today is very small but attentive & is the more interesting because it consists of persons secluded from general observation quite in the centre of this part of the island, & on this account the better shewing the diffusiveness of the gospel which

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thus winds its way into places which might be least expected to hear it. We had two services & school and in the evening I again catechized.

November 3. Set out on our course down Manawatu. The scenery is picturesque and the country fine and flat to a great extent while the population is extremely scanty. We continued till evening and encamped at a small village Ngaawapurua, 61 where were a few natives who had given up their attention to christian worship. These I invited to return and gave them a little suitable advice.

November 4. Went down the stream to a small village and then left our canoe to avoid a dangerous part of the river and arrived at Te Wi in the evening. Here we learnt that most of the natives were gone to Otaki to meet Mr. Taylor for the administration of the Lords Supper. 62 Had prayers with those who had remained behind and addressed them on the importance of living according to the gospel.

November 5. Being furnished with two fresh canoes we resumed our voyage. The stream has a continued succession of rapids down which the natives manage the canoes with much dexterity. At ten oclock we met the party coming from Otaki. We went on shore to take food with them and they were very pressing for me to remain there for the night urging as a reason the rare opportunities they have for instruction and withal a fine pig was brought forward for my natives to feast upon. However it was necessary to proceed onward and therefore I gave them a few words of exhortation as the time allowed. Continued down the river which is of difficult navigation in consequence of the numberless trees lying in it which fall from the banks into the stream every time that a flood occurs. Towards evening we passed several villages and at length reached the principal of them, Te Rewa Rewa, 63 just as the natives were concluding evening prayers. Here we were loudly welcomed and the natives conducted me to a small house at which Mr. Hadfield has been accustomed to take up for his lodging close by the chapel before which they had kindled a large blazing fire to enable them, I suppose, to have a full view of our faces. After having taken refreshment I assembled the natives in the chapel and catechized them upon the third chapter of Matthew. The people seem generally to be well informed.

November 6. Addressed the natives at morning prayers and proceeded on our way to Otaki. The first part of the way was very tedious over a yielding sand and having received a hurt from a fall on the 4th I was apprehensive lest I should not be able to continue my journey. How-

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ever, towards dusk we got to Otaki where I was glad to find Rev. H. Govett who has been left here by the Bishop to occupy in consequence of Mr. Hadfields indisposition. The natives here have a very civilised appearance having it in their power to obtain many good clothes which they much value. There are many here also who have embraced Christianity and they shew in their conduct that a blessing has attended Mr. Hadfields instructions among them. Old Rauparaha soon came in to see me. He will be remembered as one of the principals in the sad affair at Wairau. Since that event he has been an attendant upon Mr. Hadfields ministrations and certainly apart from that circumstance he is a very fine specimen of the native chief. Hearing that I was intending to proceed the next morning he said he had much to talk to me about and that I must stay with him over Sunday. I agreed at any rate to stay over tomorrow.

November 7. After breakfast Rauparaha with his sons and some others came to see me and we talked for about two hours. He says he has had experience of evil in every shape among the natives of battle sieges and murders, but that now he wishes to know something about Christianity. Walked out to see the house of Rauparaha's son 64 who is a consistent christian native of great promise. His house is neat with 4 glass windows and is intended to be divided into four rooms. In the afternoon I held service with the natives and addressed them. After service Rauparaha again pressed me to stay over Sunday or at least to send my natives on tomorrow with my luggage and go to Waikanae after morning service here.

November 8. Sent my natives forward and occupied myself in writing. In the evening went to prayers and addressed the natives. Had further conversation with Rauparaha. This man has been the scourge of this part of the country and the dread of the settlers but he is an intelligent man and there is a prospect of his becoming an altered character. His attention to what I have said in the chapel is shewn by his remarks and questions afterwards.

November 9. Sunday. Had a large and attentive congregation at morning service. Rev. H. Govett read prayers and is making much progress in the language so that I trust the native congregation will be kept together and led forward in christian knowledge. Rode to Waikanae and held afternoon service. The congregation here also was large and seemed glad to be addressed in the way to which they had been accustomed.

November 10. Proceeded towards Wellington. A party came out from a village on the road to press me to remain a while with them saying that they are Mr. Hadfields children but that Mr. H. has now left them. Arrived at Porirua in the afternoon and determined to stay for the night

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as there is a small christian party needing attention. After evening prayers I read with a Bible class, the teacher having sent for a few christian natives who are scattered round.

November 11. Pulled up the Porirua river in a canoe until we came to the beginning of a road which has been cut through the wood to Wellington. 65 At a distance of about six miles we came upon some of the settlers houses which continue at intervals for the distance of another six miles. They are in a romantic district very wild and rugged, and the labour which has been spent in clearing the timber and cultivating the soil is immense. At length we came suddenly on the view of the harbour and town of Wellington seeing the whole to great advantage from the top of a ring of hills. Having heard much against the place in every way I must say I was agreeably disappointed. Yet the place as a whole will not bear comparison with Auckland. Made my way to the house of Mr. St Hill where I was most kindly received. Found my dear brother Hadfield upon his bed from which he rises only for short intervals. His body affected with an incurable disease but his mind retaining the fullest measure of christian cheerfulness.

November 12. Mr. Colenso called with Mr. Cole. The former has been waiting at Wairarapa and we are to return together to administer the Lords Supper and then proceed by the coast to the northward. (Saw Major Richmond & Miss R., Mr. & Mrs. Chapman, Dr Featherstone. Rode to the Hutt district with Mr. St Hill.)

November 13. (Went to breakfast with Mr. Cole & saw the church. Mr. H. Kemp & Dr Fitzgerald called.) 66 In the evening the Government brig came to an anchor & the Bishop was reported as a passenger. Went to Mr. Cole's at 9 oclock and staid with the Bishop till half past one and then took leave intending to proceed to Wairarapa in the morning.

November 14. Finding that I was unable to leave with satisfaction I sent off to Mr. Colenso who had proceeded to Pitoni six miles on the road. The Bishop called to see Mr. Hadfield and made a proposal to me to visit the western coast.

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November 16. Sunday. Had a pleasing congregation of 190 natives at Pitoni, Mr. Colenso and myself dividing the services, several natives had come from a distance hearing that we are here. Poor natives, they meet with but little attention and it is wonderful that in this place of temptation they keep up any degree of consistency. There was a lamentable feature to be observed in the congregation today, not more than one fourth of the number were females. I spoke to the people in the evening about it fearing that they may have been led astray by the settlers but they assured me that there are very few females in the tribe and if the statement be true the fact can only be accounted for by supposing that infanticide to a fearful extent has been carried on among them.

November 17. Travelled onward by the coast to Porangarahu. 67

November 18. Continued our route to Te Kopi. 68 The road very stoney and fatiguing. Held evening service with the natives.

November 19. Writing. Conversed with a party of communicants.

November 20. Boisterous night with rain. The natives could not be assembled at the time we had proposed but towards nine it cleared. We had the service at twelve. Mr. Colenso read the prayers & I preached on the subject of the Loids Supper. We then administered the Lords Supper to 53 natives. Our intention was to have proceeded a little distance on our journey but the weather was still unsettled.

November 21. Left Te Kopi at an early hour and in the course of three hours we were round Cape Palliser a dreary and inhospitable part of the coast upon which there are many remains of shattered vessels which have been wrecked at different periods. In shore is a beautiful belt of grassy land varying from a quarter to half a mile in width, but at the back of this is a range of hills generally of a rugged character which being many miles in extent separate the vale of Wairarapa from the sea coast. After a walk of nine hours we reached the small village of Oroi where a little party of natives was waiting to receive us. Mr. Colenso had evening prayers.

November 22. Held prayers and addressed the natives after which we had school, when a part of the people read in the testament & the whole were catechized. We then continued our course to Pahaoa a walk of 7 1/2 hours, passing on our way a sheep station belonging to a settler from Port Nicholson. 69 Mr. Colenso had prayers with the natives.

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November 23. Sunday. Held two services with the natives & school. Mr. C. & I dividing the duty.

November 24. Walked to Wharaurangi where is residing a chief named Wireta Kawe 70 who is a melancholy instance of apostacy from the truth. He lived with his party for many years at Table Cape where he was received into the church having made consistent profession for a long period. However, the root was not in him. He had only a name to live out and he committed himself first by plundering a settler and then by renouncing his christian profession and taking back two of his wives whom he had repudiated when he professed Christianity. This unhappy man attempted to justify much of his proceeding shewing that he is far from being humbled under a sense of sin and that he wishes to return again to christian worship & pressed us much to remain. This I did not think it well to do, but urged him to pray to God for a penitent heart and for the pardon of his sins. We proceeded about 6 miles further & encamped at a small stream having the prospect of bad weather for the night.

November 25. Cheered this morning by a bright sun & having taken a hasty breakfast we travelled with all expedition in order to pass a rocky part of the coast before high water. In this we succeeded and accomplished an easy days journey to Whareama. Here we found two houses with about 10 persons old & young. There are a few more people a little in the interior but the population is small. Held service in the evening and addressed a few words to the people.

November 26. Set out early & breakfasted after a walk of two hours. We then came to Castlepoint where we were forcibly reminded of the mercies we experienced two years ago when landing from the Columbine at the same spot. At a small village here we were pressed to remain for food and then we walked on to Matakona. The wind blew with great fury and had it not been at our backs we should not have been able to travel for the clouds of sand which were raised. At Mataikona there were about 100 persons with whom I had service in the evening and addressed them particularly on the subject of the Lords Supper which was about to be administered to them.

November 27. Mr. Colenso had prayers with the natives in the morning who were then catechized for a short time. In the course of the morning I catechized 3 classes of candidates -for baptism amounting to 45 persons and in the afternoon I was engaged with the communicants. At 5 oclock we had evening service when I preached & with Mr. Colenso administered the Lords Supper to 21 communicants.

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November 28. Sent our natives forward with our luggage while Mr. Colenso and I remained for a time with the natives. We got to Akitio at 4 & the weather being unsettled we remained for the night.

November 29. Went to Pakuku to breakfast over a very stony road. We got to Porangahau about an hour before dark having been met on our road by Paora Kopakau of Waipukurau.

November 30. Sunday. Assembled the candidates for the Lords Supper before breakfast & addressed them & catechized them. At past ten we had service and administered the Lords Supper to 40 persons. At 2 oclock had school when the natives read & were catechized & at 5 we concluded with the evening service.

December 1. Held morning school & afterwards I catechized 26 candidates for baptism. Some time was then spent in enquiring into some irregularities in the place & at 2 oclock we passed on to Parimahu.

December 2. A very fatiguing journey over the stones brought us to Manawarakau a little before sunset. Here is a small party of natives and those in a listless state in consequence of the evil influence of a whaling station 71 which is near at hand. Held prayers and addressed the natives.

December 3. Mr. Colenso addressed the natives this morning & we then spent much time in conversation endeavouring to point out the evils which must follow to the natives from yielding to the temptations which are put in their way by our countrymen. At noon we continued our journey to Waimarama where I addressed the people in the evening. There are 4 white men living here who were concerned in the plunder of the American Brig at Table Cape. Yet the professed christian natives harbour these people to their own injury though they very often receive much abuse from them.

December 4. Set out early and got to Awapuni after a walk of 7 1/2 hours.

December 5. Spent the day in reading. In the evening had service in the chapel with about 240 natives.

{December 6. Reading & writing. Mr. Colenso occupied with the candidates for the Lords Supper.)

December 7. Sunday. Held services at 10 oclock and at 4. At the Lords Supper in the morning there were 127 communicants and in the afternoon Mr. Colenso baptized six infants.

December 8. Attended morning school at which nearly all the congregation of yesterday, about 250 were present previous to their dis-

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persion. In the reading classes there was a large proportion who can acquit themselves pretty well. They have thus at least an additional means within their reach. Soon after the conclusion the natives began to disperse to their distant homes and I also left with my party for Tangoio which we reached after a walk of 6i hours. Addressed the natives at Evening prayers.

December 9. Left at 1/2 past 5 and breakfasted at Aropaoanui and after a walk of 24 miles reached Waikari a little before sunset.

December 10. Went to Mohaka to breakfast and got to Wairoa at 1/2 past 6.

(December 11. Occupied with Mr. Hamlin & went to see the new site for a chapel & house. In the evening I held service in the chapel.

December 12. The natives made a transfer of 8 acres of land for the station, which will afford an excellent site for a chapel & house, the natives being settled in the immediate vicinity on either side.)

December 13. While Mr. Hamlin was busily engaged through the day in catechizing the communicants I examined some of the candidates for baptism who have been under preparation during Mr. Hamlins residence here some of whom are to be admitted to baptism tomorrow.

December 14. Sunday. At morning service I read prayers & Mr. Hamlin preached and afterwards we administered the Lords Supper to 120 communicants. I then held English service at which 9 Englishmen attended from the whaling station. In the afternoon we attended school & at service Mr. Hamlin read prayers & baptized 22 adult natives.

December 15. Left Wairoa at 8 oclock. At Whakaki had a long conversation with a small party who some time ago attached themselves to a Romish Priest who came this way. Their attachment to their error does not seem very strong and it is hoped they may soon be brought to the truth. Reached Nuhaka and found a small party assembled in expectation of my arrival. Their chapel is much out of repair the place having been almost deserted for many months past but it seemed desirable to administer the Lords Supper to such natives as may be proper recipients rather than to require their attendance at Table Cape. After evening service I sat up till a late hour to converse with the candidates.

December 16. Held prayers at an early hour and afterwards administered the Lords Supper to 20 natives. Then proceeded to Table Cape and began at an early hour in the afternoon to talk with the people. Held evening prayers and spoke closely on the necessity of repentance and told them that in the case of the late plunder of the Brig there can be no repentance where the stolen property is retained. Conversed with four classes of christian natives during the course of which there

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were many cases in which it was acknowledged that while much had been returned there is still a portion of property retained. I have reason to hope that many of these people will take the only safe course for themselves and give up whatever remains with them.

December 17. Attended school and catechized all who were there in the church catechism with reference to the approaching confirmation. Examined two more classes of communicants and then administered the lords Supper to 56 natives. Catechized 33 candidates for baptism and left for Nuhaka. Slept at the entrance of the wood.

December 18. Got to Taikawakawa at 4 oclock & called to see Mohi te Ao who for the last twelve months has been living as an outcast from his people, but has now at length shewn signs of repentance. Got home at nine in the evening having accomplished a journey of about 700 miles during which our whole party has been mercifully preserved from casualties of every kind.

December 19. Went to visit a sick native at Tapatahi. Received a request from the chief of Tutukoroheke to go and bury his daughter who has been lying dead for more than a week. Went accordingly & found a large party assembled but many not in a right spirit. There are many of the relatives who have said that the great mortality among them arises from their having become christians and others say that my medicines have killed the sick and others that the native priests have bewitched them. It was not long before a chief made a speech, alluding to the late deaths but he said nothing of an offensive character. Others followed in the same strain, when I related all that I had heard and gave them the reason why they are thus prone to turn out of the way and many to renounce their profession altogether, that they have heard the truth, that they have had the way pointed out, that they have made a profession of renouncing sin but that they have not prayed to God for grace & therefore they have no power to stand in time of trial but are offended and fall away. I learnt that many of the friends of the deceased had said she should not be buried but be disposed of according to their heathenish practices and on going to see what they called the grave I found that while there was what might be called a tomb of wood of about eight feet high above ground there was no excavation in the earth. I said therefore that I was satisfied that I had been to see them, that I had heard their grievances & had given them my advice, but that now I must return as there was no grave in which the corpse could be interred. This immediately produced an effect and two of the people set to work to dig out the grave and after a time the ceremony was completed, but there was anything but a right feeling and a spirit has manifested itself far and wide which shews that there is much empty profession.

December 20. Occupied with natives and writing.

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December 21. Sunday. Went to service with a very heavy heart not expecting much of a congregation but was glad to find a good assembly. Spoke to them very closely about their formal Christianity and urged them to seek a saving interest in Christ while it may be obtained. Held English Service & in the afternoon school & native service.

December 22. Assembled the classes from Ngatimaru to examine them in the church catechism. Found many of them very deficient which is the effect of the general laxity which prevails throughout the district. Catechized eight candidates for baptism.

December 23. Classes from Teitangamahaki and Ngaitawhiri to the number of 123. The former have had daily school for some months past & are consequently in a state much more promising than the natives generally. Catechized 20 candidates for baptism.

December 24. Catechized 67 christian natives from the tribe Ngati-kaipoho and eight candidates for baptism. The former manifest much carelessness.

December 25. Held native service morning and evening & English service at noon. Only one European present.

December 26. Catechized 27 christian natives from Wherewhero and 9 candidates for baptism.

December 27. Occupied with natives from Table Cape & writing.

December 28. Sunday. Held two native & one English Service. Glad to see some few present who have been keeping back for many months.

December 29. Catechized 74 christian natives from Ngateaweawe & Ngatimaru. The former are very deficient in their knowledge of the catechism.

December 31. Went to Turanganui to meet the natives of Pakarae. A very small party came together and most of them are entirely ignorant of the church catechism although they have been long urged to attend to it preparatory to the confirmation.


WILLIAM WILLIAMS TO CATHERINE HEATHCOTE

Wellington 14 November 1845

I have at length found my way to the principal settlement of the New Zealand Company, having occasion to come into the immediate neighbourhood to see natives by the Bishops appointment. There is in New Zealand so much hostility of feeling between the settlers & newspapers at the seat of government (Auckland), and at this place,

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that I must say I had been led by those party statements to form a much lower estimate of the place than I do now. I come, it is true, at a most favorable season when the weather is fine, and the flowers in the gardens, at least of the gentleman in whose home I am staying, give quite the appearance of old England. The place is capable I think of being made exceedingly pretty to the full extent of the industry and perseverance of the inhabitants. There are moreover some persons of worth, whose acquaintance I am glad to make, and who form a strong contrast with the motley company who make up the majority of the Companys settlers.

Among these acquaintances is Mr Chauncy Henry Townsend, upon whom I called yesterday, and respecting whom I wish to make a few suggestions in order that you may communicate them to his father. He seems by his own account to have been brought up under his fathers roof till the age of twenty three, consequently he is ignorant of the ways of the world & but ill prepared to combat with those difficulties which are to be met with generally in life, but particularly in a new country where all is uphill work. He appears to have great buoyancy of spirits, and does not repine at the hardships through which he has to pass. He possesses it appears an allotment of good land, heavily timbered, but he has done nothing with it, nor do I think he is able. He has also one acre in the town upon which he has built two small cottages . . . One of these cottages he lets for £20 a year & this is his present subsistence. His present difficulties I should not consider of any consequence but I believe him to be wholly destitute of that physical strength & energy of mind which may fit a person for making a respectable livelihood out of the soil of New Zealand. He will himself be satisfied to go on at his present muddling rate which does not supply the pittance of a common labourer, but as to getting into a position to enable him to live as a respectable settler, it is far out of his reach & I think has never entered his imagination. My advice therefore is that his father should invite him to return home, and I think that he will find that if his son had any wild & extravagant notions when in England, he is now likely to bury many of them in this country, & that if he gets back safely to England he will be glad to occupy any reputable situation which may yield him a maintenance. There is one unhappy circumstance, that he has married a young person who may make him a good wife but who is certainly not according to his own station in life ....

The country has been, and is, in a sad state, but I trust that if the natives can be brought to their right senses, we shall then be in a better state than ever heretofore. All depends upon the overruling power of God, who has hitherto frustrated the schemes of wicked or misguided men. The proposals of the N.Z. Company would ruin the natives for ever, but there is a disposition in the Home Govt to act with good faith and we may hope for better times. It is now nearly a month since I left home and it will be another month before I return to it. All

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were then well I am thankful to say, and my two sons Leonard and Sydney, I believe, are by this time at home .... You will be glad to hear that the Bishop is much pleased with Samuel our nephew of whom he speaks in the highest possible terms, and is intending to admit him to deacons orders next September. He has been proposed to the Society, but if they demur the Bishop will be too happy to receive him as one of his own immediate chaplains. Leonard also is a great favorite & the Bp. wishes him to remain at the college which was also according to my own views, & has given him one of the two scholarships attached to the college. 72

THE WILLIAMS FAMILY MS (AUCKLAND INSTITUTE)

Leonard was the Whytehead Scholar at St John's.

WILLIAM WILLIAMS TO C.M.S. Wellington 15 November 1845

I take the present occasion to make a few remarks upon the subject of Mr Coates letter to Lord Stanley, respecting the Report of the Committee of the House of Commons. The subsequent determination of Lord Stanley to pursue a different course from that recommended by the Committee of the House, renders it unnecessary to say much; but still it will be satisfactory to you to receive the opinion of your missionaries upon so important a question. 73 I will therefore briefly give you my impression on first reading the report of that Com.

I met with it at Opotiki in March last, . . . and I assure you I was filled with the most gloomy forebodings about the result to ourselves and to the natives. On the part of the latter I could only suppose that there would be the most determined resistance if those measures were adopted by the government, and then no alternative would be left to the missionaries but to withdraw from the country altogether. Because if they told the natives that they were unjustly dealt with, they would be regarded as opposers of Her Majestys Government and if they recommended to the natives quiet submission, and told them that all was just and proper, the natives would look upon them as deceivers, who had come to the country, not to seek their spiritual good, but to prepare the way for our own countrymen more easily to accomplish their destruction. It has therefore been with extreme satisfaction that I have read Mr Coates pamphlet, which doubtless had much influence upon Lord Stanleys decision, and may hereafter serve to prevent a recurrence to the like pernicious proposals. A few days after reading the report, I had a proof of the effect which would have been produced upon the native mind by this measure. I met a large body of natives on their way from Taupo in the centre of the island, and they were circulating in every village the report which had just reached them from Taranake, that the whole country was

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about to be taken from them by the Government. They seemed to eye me in consequence with extreme suspicion though I assured them that the Govt, would not depart from the stipulations of the Treaty of Waitangi. 74

At the present time the state of feeling is still violent in certain quarters against the Governor, the Bishop and the Missionaries. The prospects of many have been blighted and they gladly cast blame on any quarter, hoping thereby to relieve their restless minds. With the measures of the Govr. we are in no way connected, though it is said he has been actuated by missionary policy. But although the newspapers are teeming with abuse every week, it is abundantly evident that ever since the first meeting held by the Governor at Waimate, his Excellency has used the strongest coercive and offensive measures which were in his power, having given the business entirely into the hands of the military commander. The measures have not been successful, and many persons have been weak enough to attribute the failure to those whom every man of sense must know to have assisted the government in every way which was compatible with their own proper duties ....

The christian natives for the most part continue stedfast though there are many who have the name but dishonour it. In no point of the island is the powerful effect of religion more evident than in the immediate neighbourhood of Wellington in the sphere of labour which has been occupied by the Rev. O. Hadfield. What would the natives have been and what would have become of the settlers also if it had not been for missionary influence. 75

1   Colenso took a more optimistic view of Tohutohu when he visited Ngamoerangi on 19 January 1845: Tohutohu 'spoke favourably of Xy., and gave me hopes of his by and bye becoming a Xn.' (Colenso, Papers. Vol. 1, p. 142.)
2   In his MS Diary (1845), Williams was now using the 'wh' symbol for the 'w' aspirate. Thus in the Diary, Tewanui was written Tewhanui.
3   Hamlin arrived from Wairoa on February 8. He had come to fetch his family who had been staying at Whakato. They left for Wairoa on 12 February.
4   Henry Venn, Secretary of the C.M.S., still maintained that control of a missionary's location 'should be one of the functions exercised by the Parent Committe', but to Selwyn's somewhat peremptory suggestion, 'that every Clergyman or other Missionary sent out by the Society be directed at once to the Waimate and there to remain till I assign him his station', Venn adopted a conciliatory attitude: 'The Committee are unwilling ... to adopt any rule which would debar them from control over the location of Missionaries:-- but knowing your Lordship's wish they are persuaded that they themselves and their successors in office will be desirous of complying with this suggestion unless they should see reason to propose to your Lordship some specific destination, for which they may hope to have your sanction'. (H Venn to G. A. Selwyn 3 June 1844, Selwyn Papers Vol. 1, p. 18.) There is no further reference to the lay Corresponding Committee proposed in the letter of 5 September 1843, apart from the suggestion that some 'gentlemen residing at Auckland' act as auditors and have a general superintendence over property.
5   As Henry expressed it to Archdeacon Brown, it was scarcely a hint: 'They have lots of fast days at the Waimate much good may they do them.' The following year he wrote: 'I hope many of our fears have been groundless [regarding Selwyn]--tho' on all points I do not hold with him--Fast days--Saints days and daily church to the exclusion of family worship.' (H. Williams to A. N. Brown 21 September 1842 and 17 June 1843, A. N. Brown Papers.)
6   See note on Spencer at end of 1842 Letters and Journals.
7   The diagnosis of aneurysm was probably incorrect, although prolonged periods of lying down would no doubt have aggravated his chronic asthma. In fact he lived to be 90 and became primate of New Zealand. The tribute William Williams paid him in 1845 when he believed him to be dying was an indication of his high regard for Hadfield: 'His course has been short but brilliant. It has pleased God to make him the means of much good, and he is now greatly respected even by those who are opposed to what is good.' (W Williams to C.M.S. 15 November 1845, C.N./096.)
8   The Bishop and Mrs Selwyn landed at Waikanae on 29 March and left on 19 May 1845.
9   A. Chouvet, S.M.
10   Edward Shortland, Protector of Aborigines.
11   Hori Tupaea, a chief of Ngai te Rangi.
12   Lake Rotorua.
13   Te Ngae mission station.
14   Selwyn and Judge Martin bathed here on their 1842 visit to Rotorua; Selwyn noted that a foot sprain he had developed on his travels disappeared. Thomas Chapman who suffered a great deal from rheumatism, decided to follow the Bishop's example, but choosing the evening rather than the day time, he mislaid his clothes and caught a severe chill. His rheumatism worsened. (N. M. Taylor, Early Travellers, p. 83 and T. Chapman to A. N. Brown undated letter 1842, A. N. Brown Papers.)
15   The instigator of the first massacre was Te Rauparaha. He was staying with the Tuhourangi people, to whom he was related, on Motutawa Island, Lake Rotokakahi, when he learnt of the proximity of a party of visiting Ngapuhi. Under Te Rauparaha's influence, the Tuhourangi inveigled a number of Ngapuhi across to the island and killed them--the date is thought to be 1822. This was Rauparaha's revenge for the death of a Thames' relative by Hongi Hika, and this in turn became the pretext for Hongi's attack on the Arawa on Mokoia Island the following year. (D. M. Stafford, op. cit., pp. 175-88.)
16   A Ngati Awa pa on the left bank of the Rangitaiki River half a mile south of Te Toko Hotel. This place-name and the following are identified from Elsden Best, Tuhoe, New Plymouth 1925, Appendix 2 in Vol. 1, and the area map in Vol. 2.
17   Rangitaiki River.
18   A Ngati Awa pa on the left bank of the Whakatane River near Whakatane township.
19   Situated about three miles up the Waikare stream, Ruatahuna district. 'A Catholic priest called Reine by the natives visited Ruatahuna early in 1842 . . . This same priest used to visit a Tuhoe village on the Waikare stream between Maungapohatu and the Whakatane River, where he seems to have taught the natives to read and write. The site of that village is marked now only by some quince trees and grape vines.' (Best, op. cit., Vol. 1, p. 563.) The Catholic priest would probably be Father Reignier visiting from Opotiki, but he did not arrive at that station until either the end of 1842 or January 1843.
20   A pa in the Ruatahuna district built about 1842.
21   A stockaded pa in the Ruatahuna district.
22   The practice of vaccination was strongly recommended by the British College of Physicians as early as 1807, and from that date began the almost universal vaccination of the children of the educated classes in Britain. (Extracts from Papers relating to the History & Practice of Vaccination, Auckland 1859, p. 13.) The New Zealand Company was concerned with preventing the introduction of smallpox, and Company surgeons on immigrant ships had to maintain a succession of vaccinated patients on board. The only recorded case of smallpox in the Wellington area prior to 1845 was that of the steward on the Martha Ridgeway. He, together with medical attendants were put in a quarantine tent at Oriental Bay. The sick man recovered and the disease spread no further. (The New Zealand Gazette and Britannia Spectator 21 November 1840.) A report of Edmund Halswell, the Company's Protector of Aborigines, gives an account of an early vaccination programme in Wellington among the Maoris: 'Some of them saw the disease on board the Martha Ridgeway . . . Nevertheless they were very unwilling to submit to vaccination . . . and when it was proposed to vaccinate some of the younger people at Pah Te Aro, the principal elders . . . made it a condition that, if I would submit to the operation first, they would allow the children to be treated as I wished. To this 1 consented, and fifteen of the most healthy were vaccinated the first morning: from these an abundance of virus has been obtained, and nearly the whole pah have undergone the operation. The other pahs in the port have partially submitted.' (Report quoted in Sherrin & Wallace, op. cit., p. 591.) It would seem that Williams would have used this 'arm to arm' method--one person being vaccinated from the lymph developed in the postule of another. He probably obtained the initial vaccine from cow pox on the udders and teats of his own cows. This method was used in 1844 at the Waimate: 'Today our children were vaccinated from Mr. E. Williams' beautiful boy as was also the Bishop's son.' (W. Bambridge, Diary 23 July 1844.) By 1844, however, dried calf lymph was also held in Auckland; a request in that year came from Dr J. Fitzgerald for 'vaccine matter' for the Wellington Maoris. (J. Fitzgerald to M. Richmond 2 April 1844, IA/27 National Archives.) There is no evidence of a similar request from Williams.
23   Henry Govett, ordained deacon on 18 May 1845, took Hadfield's post at Waikanae as soon as Selwyn left. He remained in charge of the Otaki/Waikanae station until December 1846.
24   Joseph Marsden, youngest child of Henry and Marianne Williams.
25   Rakauwerewere meeting house is within present day Manutuke. It was probably the highest navigable point for small schooners on the Waipaoa River.
26   Weary.
27   Open country.
28   The various beehives were given the children's names. William Cotton, master of the Boys' School and a keen apiarist also had one named after him.
29   On 11 March 1845, Heke and Kawiti made an attack on Kororareka. Settlers and troops were evacuated from the town which was then bombarded by the guns of H.M.S. Hazard.
30   Peter Simpson--see W. Williams to W. L. Williams 9 May 1845.
31   On 12 January 1845 Robert Espie bought 154 acres at Poverty Bay bounded by the Taruheru River and the Makowiriwiri Swamp. (O.L.C. Poverty Bay 4/21. National Archives.)
32   The 1844 Synod at Waimate decided that a native census should be taken by the C.M.S. missionaries.
33   Barter.
34   A permanent Whakato to replace the house destroyed by fire.
35   With the cessation of raids from northern and inland tribes, and with peace established, the Mahia ceased to be a place of refuge, except perhaps for the white population. During the forties groups of Ngati Kahungunu left to return to their former habitations.
36   See footnote 38.
37   On 4 July 1845 the barque Tyne of 427 tons was wrecked on the Rimarapa rocks close to Sinclair Heads. (C. W. N. Ingram and P. O. Wheatley, New Zealand Shipwrecks 1795-1960, Wellington 1966, p. 28.)
38   There were shoes for the Williams' family in the Falco, but when she was wrecked and plundered, Maoris made off with them. One of the Christian Maoris came to the rescue: I daresay you remember Anna Paul. She was very angry with the natives and went running about tearing their stolen beads off their necks and got away our shoes from them and gave them to Father, some of them had been cut at the sides to let their great feet into them.' (Mary Williams to W. L. Williams 9 August 1845, Williams Collection, Gisborne.)
39   The American brig, Falco from Boston on a trading voyage in the South Pacific had anchored off Whangawehi for provisions. On board was the second American consul for New Zealand, J. B. Williams. The cargo was valuable; in addition to trading goods, there was the government mail on board, and Williams had a large amount of specie. This last was taken to the house of Robert Brown, a whaler and settler at Table Cape. An eye witness, possibly the captain or J. B. Williams, wrote, 'Too much praise cannot be given to the Ven. Archdeacon for the assistance he rendered to the Consul in visiting the natives at the different Pahs:--pointing out to them the crimes of which they had been guilty, and urging them to make the only atonement now in their power--the return of such of the property as was in their hands.' (Letter in The Auckland Times 13 September 1845; for other accounts of the wreck see Colenso, Papers, Vol. 2, pp. 33-4; Ingram and Wheatley, op. cit., p. 29.)
40   Selwyn had no better success. In January 1846 he was on the East Coast holding confirmation services, and hearing of the plundering of the Falco, told the Mahia Maoris that unless they gave up the remainder of the plunder, he would not hold a confirmation service. He gave them just one hour to decide, and when only a portion of the goods was brought forward, he left. James Hamlin who was accompanying him, then had to pacify the well disposed Maoris who had had nothing to do with the Falco depradation, and had expected to be confirmed. (J. Hamlin, Journal to the C.M.S. 13 January 1846, C.N./050.) The remainder of the non perishable cargo was eventually returned to William Williams; see W. Williams Journal 27 January 1847.
41   Colenso set off for Turanga with his pregnant wife on 24 July. His own illness prevented him from leaving earlier and the journey now had to be made in the cold and wet of winter. 'I shuddered sometimes', he wrote, 'to see the places wh. Mrs. C. had to climb up and down--more than doubly hazardous in the present wet winter season.' (Colenso, Papers, Vol. 1, p. 203.)
42   Heke's pa Puketutu near Lake Omapere was sometimes referred to as Te Mawhe. (J. Cowan, The New Zealand Wars, Wellington 1922, Vol. 1, p. 39.) On 8 May a British force under Lieut-Col Hulme made a fruitless attempt to capture it.
43   Lieut Phillpotts of H.M.S. Hazard was the son of Dr Henry Phillpotts, Bishop of Exeter.
44   London agent for Henry and William Williams.
45   Colenso became ill at the beginning of May; severe fever set in and he believed himself to be near death. On May 20 he wrote in his Journal: 'A sol. time--no hum. aid at hand--Mrs C. quite exhausted with incessant watching thro 8 days and nights witht. going to bed, or once undressing--but God spoke--and the all but dead slowly arose.' (Colenso, Papers. Vol. 1, p. 195.)
46   Cooking shed.
47   Mud.
48   Wearisome work.
49   Lieut. Phillpotts, frustrated and mortified no doubt by the poor showing of the British forces at Kororareka on March 11, and suspicious also of Henry Williams' motive in his daily visits to the camp of Heke and Kawiti, called Williams a 'traitor' to his face. In fact Henry Williams had kept the Police Magistrate of Kororareka fully informed of the intentions of both Maori leaders. (Carleton, op. cit., Vol. 2, p. 94.)
50   William Williams 'recovered' from his distress on reading Gov. FitzRoy's letter to Henry on 2 April 1845: 'To accuse Archdeacon Henry Williams--the tried, the proved, the loyal, the indefatigable, of being a "traitor" . . . seemed to me so utterly absurd, to say the very least, that such an idea could not be entertained by me for one moment.' (ibid, p. 106.)
51   Extract from a letter of Marianne Williams to Kate Heathcote 5 July 1845: 'The poor boys have had great losses, but great preservations. When Heke encamped his army there [Pakaraka] they ate twenty tons of potatoes,--all their winter stock; burnt a quantity of fencing, and many tons of valuable kauri gum (purchased for export), for firewood. Much wheat destroyed; all their poultry and pigs, and yet the barn was not burnt, though the natives lay upon the wheat, smoking their pipes.' Straggling plunderers had also broken all the windows and stolen whatever they found, (ibid, p. 116.)
52   Maria Edgeworth, a 19th century novelist and popular writer of children's books. Early Lessons was published in 1801.
53   Ridley Latimer Colenso.
54   She died on 19 August 1845.
55   Shoes were a constant problem; even with great care they did not last long on the Coast. After being only a few months at Hicks Bay, Mrs Kissling wrote: I am quite in distress for shoes for my dear children, they have not a pair without holes!' She hoped that some would arrive soon from Sydney. (M. Kissling to C. Brown 8 August 1843, A. N. Brown Papers.)
56   The root cause of settler discontent was the depression of the mid and late forties. The N.Z. Company and settlers sought scapegoats. The conciliatory policy of FitzRoy was regarded as prejudiced in favour of missionaries and Maoris. The two Protectors, father and son, were equally detested. 'I have been made a mark for all the shafts that ridicule and malice can invent', wrote George Clarke, the Sub-Protector in Wellington, 'hooted every day and insulted publicly in the streets .... The people will not listen to what I say and talk of noting else but the extermination of the poor Maoris.' (Miller, op. cit., pp. 77-8.) Because of their 'practical estrangement both local and social from the white man, and their close habitual intercourse with the Maori', The New Zealand Gazette and Wellington Spectator, 15 July 1843, was extremely critical of the missionary influence with Maoris. Missionaries encouraged Maoris to think of settlers 'as some leprous tribe', and the writer also accused missionaries of 'setting the one race against the other ... in fact if not by words'. Bishop Selwyn also ran a gauntlet of Company-settler criticism. He had hoped by 'cautious and judicious management' to keep the church clear of politics, but, as he later wrote, 'hatred to the natives is now the keynote, not to harmonize with which is to be a traitor to ones country'. (Tucker, op. cit., Vol. 1, pp. 190, 198.) He was particularly denounced when he visited Wellington in May 1845 for bringing Te Rauparaha into the Anglican parsonage there. 'This step gave unlimited dissatisfaction at Wellington', wrote Sarah Selwyn, 'but it did not prevent all the rank and fashion from coming to call, or the wife of the Editor of the local paper from sending a fine plum cake to Willie, [Selwyn's son] just as her husband was denouncing the Bishop in thundering articles. This last act of the lady pleased George-- it was in accordance with his own way, in nine cases out of ten not to allow public arraignments and so to speak, abuse, interfere with the amenities of private life. So when a husband fulminated against the Bishop, I had to go and call on the wife and to make myself highly agreeable and as sweet as nature would permit--it generally had as doctors say a "mollifying" effect.' (S. Selwyn, Reminiscences, p. 29.)
57   Te Ngaua, a village 4 miles from Pakowai. (Bagnall and Petersen, op. cit., p. 261.)
58   The brunt of the fighting against Waikato and Taupo raiders was borne by Ngati Whatuiapiti at the island pa on Roto a Tara. The raiders were finally driven out by a combined force under the chiefs Pareihi of Ngati Whatuiapiti and Te Wera, the Ngapuhi chief at the Mahia. (J. C. Wilson, History of Hawkes Bay, pp. 85-102.)
59   The Bishop did not name the place where he camped but described it as 'on a lovely little plain, bounded on all sides with wood, except on one where a view opened on a range of distant hills. Below us, in a very deep valley, flowed the infant Manawatu, in a very winding channel, with precipitous wooded banks feathering down to the stream.' (N. M. Taylor, Early Travellers, p. 70.)
60   East of Dannevirke (Bagnall and Petersen, op. cit., p. 233n.)
61   On the north bank of the river near the former combined road/rail bridge over the Manawatu. (ibid, p. 233n.)
62   Govett was C.M.S. missionary at the Otaki/Waikanae station, but being in deacon's orders only could not administer the Lord's Supper.
63   Te Rewarewa was the name given to the area of land enclosed by the loop of the Manawatu River five miles below its junction with the Oroua. (G. L. Adkin, Horowhenua, Wellington 1948, p. 342.)
64   Tamihana te Rauparaha.
65   The Porirua River would have been the Kenepuru Stream. There were three main tracks to Wellington from Porirua and Williams would be on the Kaiwharawhara Track. Company workmen had begun to improve this in 1841, and by 1845 it was a bridle path cleared to a width of 6 feet. (Wards, op. cit., pp. 260-1.)
66   The Wellington citizens that Williams met at the St Hill's were: Mathew Richmond, at this time Superintendent of the Southern District; Henry Chapman, sworn in as New Zealand's first puisne judge on 26 December 1843; Isaac Featherston, medical practitioner and in 1845 first edtior of the Wellington Independent; Henry Kemp, son of missionary James Kemp was secretary and interpreter to the Land Claims Commissioners; John Fitzgerald was Colonial Surgeon in charge of Wellington hospital. He was also a devout Roman Catholic whom Pompallier had appointed catechist at Wellington. The church Williams saw was the first 'Old St Paul's'. It was built in 1844 and stood on the area behind the present parliamentary grounds. When it was dismantled some of its timber was used in the building of the Bolton St Mortuary Chapel. (L. Ward, Early Wellington, Wellington 1929, pp. 101, 275.)
67   Para-ngarehu, a pa 2 1/2 miles east of Pencarrow Head. (G. L. Adkin, The Great Harbour of Tara, Wellington 1959, p. 62.)
68   There is a detailed map of place-names of the Wairarapa Coast 1845-52, in Bagnall and Petersen, William Colenso, p. 218, on which the settlements visited by Williams and Colenso are marked.
69   R. Barton's Whawhanui station.
70   Te Wereta. He was also known as Arthur Wellington; Colenso referred to him by the initials A.W. He robbed the homestead of R. Barton at Whawhanui. When Colenso came south along the coast in March, Te Wereta warned him never to set foot in his district again: 'He cursed me and blasphemed God for whom he cared not, no, not for eternal fire.' (Colenso, Papers. Vol. 1, pp. 169-70.)
71   William Morris had a whaling station at Rangaika, immediately south of Cape Kidnappers. William Edwards' station was a few miles to the south at Putotaranui. (Bagnall and Petersen, op. cit., pp. 206, 225, 186.)
72   Leonard was the Whytehead Scholar at St John's.
73   See note, A conflict of interest, at end of 1845 Letters and Journals.
74   Some Maoris at any rate seemed well aware of the intention of the 1844 Select Committee Report. Shortly after his arrival, Governor Grey had to give a similar reassurance to a party of Auckland chiefs. (Wards, op. cit., p. 192.)
75   Hadfield's influence with Te Rauparaha and Te Rangihaeata, particularly with the former, is believed to have restrained these chiefs from attacking the township of Wellington after the Wairau massacre.

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