CHAPTER II. Arrival at Hobarton--Sydney--Auckland
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CHAPTER II.
Arrival at Hobarton--Sydney--Auckland--Waiheki and Wangari in the Shouraka Gulf.
H. M. S. 'Fantome' anchored off the port-officer's house at Hobarton, at half-past 10 P.M., 12th July, 1851; having had to beat up Storm Bay. We found the 'Calliope' had arrived; and although our passage was a long one, our April mail brought to the Cape by the mail screw-steamer was then considered a very quick one. The appearance of the city the next morning was exceedingly pleasing--so thoroughly English. It was Sunday: and after our long trip, the church-bells ringing; the quiet; Mount Wellington, capped with snow, above the city, from which the steeple of St. George's appeared to pierce it; the fine antique building of the high school in the distance; the parklike scenery, and absence of all bustle in the shipping (not often noticed in foreign ports), all brought to our minds the idea of a Sunday at home; and I can safely say, we were all delighted with this our first view of the first port of our station.
We were truly astounded at the accounts of the just-discovered gold in New South Wales; and to find that these colonies promised to become a second California, which has indeed been more than verified as to wealth: every one appeared mad on the subject. Our own ideas at the changed prospect of the colonies we were sent to protect for four years were difficult to
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HOBARTON.
analyse. The whole country would undergo a great change: perhaps we were to be called on to act for Mamma, to keep her wealthy daughter in order: this thought was very momentary. The parent's peace of mind depends so much on the child's welfare, that an American lesson would not be needed; nor indeed are the colonies as yet anxious for anything approaching a separation from dear England: this I can vouch for now in all societies.
We heard of the recent wreck of the French corvette 'L'Alcmene,' Le Compte d'Harcourt, captain. It was considered a clumsy affair; and a Hobarton lady, just married to a Swede serving as a lieutenant in her, behaved nobly on the occasion. The loss took place near Hokianga on the west coast of New Zealand; 12 of her men were drowned, and the ship and her stores totally lost. The Maories behaved very well on the occasion; and the officers of the 11th regiment, at Auckland, acted nobly to their shipwrecked allies; in return for which the French officers, a year after, sent a very handsome picture of the wreck, by a French artist, to the mess, with an inscription to the purpose. This is, and will be while the regiment lasts, a pleasing ornament and reminiscence to them. As we remained at Hobarton a very short time, I will defer saying anything about it till our return.
Leaving Hobarton on the 17th of July, and anchoring twice in the Derwent, off D'Entrecasteaux Channel, between Brune Island and the main, we got clear of Storm Bay the 19th, and anchored in that most lovely of spots, in that most beautiful of harbours, Farm Cove, Sydney, the 25th. A pilot came off to us outside the heads of Port Jackson, and confirmed the Hobarton accounts of the gold discovery, and the
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PORT JACKSON.
prevalent epidemic madness brought on by it. His remark was--"There's GOLD enough to COPPER all the ships in Port Jackson." There being no wind in the harbour, according to the pilot's account, we had to stand off and on for a couple of hours. The daybreak outside the port was the most lovely I ever witnessed; the air was pure, refreshing, and bracing, with a very light breeze; and just before the sun rose, the tints of the softest blue and red blended deliciously, and contrasted with the massive picturesque clouds in the east; these gradually got gilded at the edges, then became like burnished solid gold, then a fiery red, and formed altogether the most charming of sights. A painter would sink into despair at the uselessness of attempting so gorgeous a picture; particularly when in one minute the sun appeared--and Aurora stood before us alone, all else gone, and not a cloud in the pure blue arch of heaven.
Making sail about ten, and beating up the harbour against very light airs, occasionally assisted by our boats towing, we anchored at half-past two, finding H. M. S. 'Havanah,''Calliope,' 'Pandora,' and 'Acheron' in the port.
Port Jackson is one of the finest and most picturesque harbours in the world, capable of containing in its numerous creeks and bays, a larger fleet than has ever been collected together. Its only drawback is a shoal called "The Sow and Pigs," on which is a light-vessel. The city is built on a long arm of the land, jutting out into the south side of the harbour, with Farm and Sydney Coves on its eastern, and Darling Harbour on the western side; the former being the resort of Her Majesty's ships, and the two latter of the merchant navy. Captain Erskine, of H. M. S.
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SYDNEY.
'Havanah,' and Lieutenant Pollard, had just returned from a trip to the diggings, preparatory to going home; they fully authenticated the apparently marvellous accounts of the gold, and the former officer took to England some large specimens, to be presented to Her Majesty, packed in a box of the most valuable native woods, the gratuitous work of Mr. A. Leneham, cabinetmaker of Sydney. During our stay of twenty-three days, I never missed a day on shore, in order to see everything I could; and indeed on all parts of the station, I made a point of seeing everything my duties would allow me: the weather was all the time incessantly beautiful, and the climate delicious.
The elections for the Assembly were going on, and the papers teeming with addresses, &c, convictism being the great test of the candidates. We were immediately made honorary members of the Australian Club, in Bent Street; and I take this opportunity of mentioning the kindness of the members, and the courteous, quiet, gentlemanlike tone of the club, with the great satisfaction afforded to myself, and I am sure to all the others, my messmates, by their attention. One must be in Sydney to fully appreciate the comforts of a club; for while the club is well managed, and one meets none but gentlemen there, the inns, without exception, are in both respects the contrary.
After we had refitted, we left the 10th August, and arrived in the Waitemata, or harbour of Auckland, New Zealand, the 26th. Our impressions on first arrival here were very gloomy: everything appeared wild and sombre; and I must say my English-formed ideas of New Zealand were unpleasantly shaken by this first visit; but the officers of the 'Fly' (which ship we relieved) liked it, and told us that one soon gets over
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WAIHEKI.
the dislike of the boisterous wet weather. The 'Fly' left for England on the 29th, having been expecting us to relieve her several months. They had ingratiated themselves with the people, but appeared delighted to go home.
We landed five deer we brought for the colony from Mount Edgecumbe, Plymouth; the only buck was the day after, I regret to say, allowed to get over the enclosure, and in August, 1852, was still loose in the interior, in danger of being killed by the dogs. What a pity, after all the care and trouble taken in bringing him out such a distance! Only one buck came aboard the 'Calliope' in England, but fortunately one born on the passage proved a male.
We left Auckland, and anchored at Waiheki the 28th October. On the 31st we went to Wangari for a few days, and then to the Bay of Islands on the 7th of November.
Waiheki is a mountainous island in the Shouraka Gulf, with a small land-locked bay for a harbour; here we got any quantity of excellent firewood and water. The bush is filled with pigeons; they are excellent eating, but do not show much sport, as they sit quietly on the branches to be popped at; and though too tame for the thorough sportsman, they give you good exercise a la quadruped, the supplejack being so entwined in the branches and out-of-the-earth roots of trees, that the only way to get through is to crawl on all fours, and mind the cock of your gun. There were a few English sawyers located there with their wives, a wild class, and not overburdened with morals, as some of our officers know; and a few natives exchanged herrings and fowls for tobacco. The oysters here are so wonderfully plentiful, that in many places they literally
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SHOURAKA GULF.
leave no spot of the rocks where they congregate uncovered. There was a little wooden barn, which had been used as a church, and at which I understood from the natives, the good, apostle-like Bishop of New Zealand, Dr. Selwyn, had on one occasion officiated. All the Maories here could read and understand a vocabulary-book I made a point of carrying ashore with me, till I picked up a little of their language. One of them showed me an English Bible; this, however, they certainly could not read, but it struck me they kept it for their white friends, for I have the highest opinion of Maori character.
In January 1852, a report existed in Sydney, that gold had been discovered in this island; and though untrue, it very probably will be, as it exists largely close to the opposite Coromandel shore. From this island, Auckland and its neighbouring settlements are chiefly supplied with firewood.
While entering the harbour of Wangari, to the north of the Shouraka Gulf, we took the ground on a sandbore off the edge of Mare's bank, but got off when the tide rose, in three hours. Here we shot great numbers of pigeons, parrots, and a capital-eating bird, which we called redbill. Some white men, but no natives, communicated with us from a small settlement near at hand, where a squatter (probably an old whale-master) had settled, farmed and stocked a great deal of land without any legal right, but merely allowed by the natives, as he was living with one of their women, and had children by her. We got excellent firewood here, but the water was bad, probably from want of care in getting it
