1854 - Richardson, J. A Summer's Excursion in New Zealand - CHAPTER V. AUCKLAND, CANTERBURY AND NELSON, p 80-104

       
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  1854 - Richardson, J. A Summer's Excursion in New Zealand - CHAPTER V. AUCKLAND, CANTERBURY AND NELSON, p 80-104
 
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CHAPTER V. AUCKLAND, CANTERBURY AND NELSON.

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CHAPTER V.

AUCKLAND, CANTERBURY AND NELSON.

IN endeavouring to obtain some information about Auckland, containing about a quarter of the entire population of New Zealand, one almost fancied oneself in the pursuit of some ideal country; or if by any chance you attain to some knowledge of its existence, it appears as great a colonial anomaly as the "Kiwi" is a natural phenomenon. It is represented as situated among extinct volcanoes at nearly the northern extremity of the island, amidst populous tribes whose chief delight is in war, dependent upon the lavish expenditure of Government on account of establishments ill placed, troops not needed, and pensioners of doubtful utility, remote from the focus of trade, and destitute of any real advantages. It would be hard to believe in the existence of such a place were it not that the English exchequer asserts the fact in language not to be misunderstood, that is, by an annual expenditure of about £200,000, with an occasional make-weight of £100,000 additional. It appears to be to the colonial office what Algeria is to France, a fair field for testing colonial theories.

It was selected as the site of missionary operations, and

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judiciously so, from the surrounding dense native population, whalers resorted thither for their supplies, which the adjacent valleys in the Bay of islands, on the Waikato, Thames, and Waipa afforded in abundance; a Government establishment emerged to regulate the movements of the rising Britain; antagonism with a remote association nourished its energies; political theories were broached and needed military support in their developement; land speculators visited the neighbourhood and reaped a golden harvest, amounting in some well authenticated cases to at least £550 per acre; emigrants arrived, juveniles from Pentonville were imported and thrived, embodied pensioners were located on the frontier at a considerable expense, colleges sprang up in connection with the Church of England and the Wesleyans, roads were formed by Government at no small outlay, and the result of all this is the town of Auckland.

If some view it in this chrysalis state, others delight to dwell on it when its golden wings are expanded to the gentle zephyrs. Its harbour, clothed from the summits of lofty hills to the water's edge with luxuriant vegetation reflected on the unruffled surface of the ocean, is represented, and with truth, as undeniably excellent; an Eden, gently rising, affords a convenient retreat from whence the infant gambols of this southern scion of a noble house may be viewed; forests of merchant navies supply the place of other forests which once embraced the town, but which are now without a living representative; --an Epsom, fruitful in associations, within 10

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miles, evidences by facts as hard as scoriae, the universality of the Macadam theory; and amidst its innumerable advantages it is said that if it cannot boast of the loveliness and fertility of New Plymouth, it is not like it restricted to an open roadstead; if it has not the wealth of Wellington, it is not subject like it to those violent earthquakes which shake one off the land only to be wrecked at sea; and if it is without the heaven-born climate of Nelson, it is not like it encircled by the emaciated arms of poverty: indeed, in all its esentials, it is confidently asserted as willing to stand a fair comparison with its southern sisters.

It is not easy to ascend a Tongariro far above the mists and prejudices of settlements, and gaze with an impartial eye on these contending claims; we will make an attempt to cast off the artificial garments which may fade and decay, and exhibit this northern town as possessing no doubtful claims from her own intrinsic merits.

Any importance which Auckland derives from being the seat of Government must be done away with at once, for its situation not only does not entitle it to this preference, but rather disqualifies it; for the natural seat of power is in Cook's Straits. The large expenditure on account of the troops will only be allowed to continue while the British Government bears its brunt, and the pensioners' villages will exist only during a similar period; for the colonists having the bit in their mouths are not likely to be guided by the will of another while the treasury spur freely draws their blood.

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Steam navigation by the Panama route will prefer the coal deposits in Cook's Straits to the scoriae of Auckland, and the ports of Wellington, Lyttleton, and Chalmers will command all the shipping in order to convey the staple of New Zealand, viz. its wool, to the home market.

Let us glance at the situation of the town which is considered the most compact and well arranged one in New Zealand: it is situated on the southern shore of Waitemata Harbour, a bay in the gulf of Hauraki. The entrance into the harbour does not exceed three quarters of a mile in width, and is the same distance from the southern head, from which also the town is distant about 2 1/2 miles. The harbour increases a quarter of a mile in width within the heads, it is from 6 to 9 fathoms deep in the channel and 3 at the sides, extends 10 miles to the westward, and then terminates by two inlets running north and south, the latter navigable within a mile and a half of the western coast at Manukao Harbour. Depot Points is in late. 36.50.05 and longe. 174.50.40, --the variation of the compass is 14..18, and the tide rises from 7 to 11 feet. The soil is represented, within a few miles of the town, as of an inferior description, but fine agricultural spots, though destitute of wood, are obtainable between the mouth of Manukao and Auckland, a distance of 17 miles. The harbour of Manukao is bar-mouthed, but a good channel exists close to the northern shore, it is deep and free from danger within; the prevalence of westerly winds, however, often detains vessels ready to sail for weeks together. It is to its proximity to rich

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and extensive valleys, from its vicinity to the whaling grounds, and its Kauri timber, that Auckland derives its chief importance. Gold has been discovered, and copper has been worked in its neighbourhood. When the aboriginals have disappeared from the face of the earth (a not improbable or remote contingency), Auckland will assume a position which will give her the command of some of the finest agricultural districts in the country, and will then start fair in competing for commercial preeminence.


CANTERBURY.

The Canterbury Association, adopting and extending the peculiar principle of the Scotch colony at Otago, designed the formation of a colony composed entirely of members of the Church of England. Fettered as the Church is by its connexion with the State, it was resolved, with a view to the efficient administration of her ordinances and the free exercise of her discipline, that an endowment and a provision, sufficient for its ecclesiastical and educational purposes, should be obtained from the sale of land, and placed under trust of the Society for the Propagation of the Gospel in foreign parts. It was reasonably expected that these advantages would offer inducements to the high and middle classes to emigrate to a country said to be not much inferior to their own in all the materials of wealth, and this migration of a complete section of society would, in addition to the other ad-

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vantages, including a concentrated population around the parish Church, act beneficially in furtherance of their scheme. Capital and labour were to be kept in due proportion by a similar appropriation of a part of the proceeds of the land sales, while from the same source was to arise a fund which would meet the exigencies of a newly formed colony, viz. the surveying of the land, the formation of roads, and the necessary preparation for the comfortable subsistence of the newly arrived colonists.

So noble and disinterested an object was worthy of all success. The hierarchy, nobility, and gentry readily responded to the appeal. A cursory glance at the names of the members of the committee, while giving assurance that this was no party scheme, at least in its developement, should cause the churchman to recognize with pride this additional evidence that the best interests of the poor are not unheeded by the noble and the rich. A reference to page 689 of the Canterbury papers will convince the sceptical, if emphatic statements are worth anything, that all party spirit is disclaimed, extremes are repudiated, whether they be known under the designation of "Puseyism" or bigoted Evangelicism. No priest-ridden colony was in contemplation; no middle age spiritual supremacy desired: the Church was to be unconnected with the State, and clerical influence was to depend on example and persuasion as in other denominations.

On the 13th of November, 1849, the Canterbury Association was incorporated by Royal Charter. It avoided

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any pecuniary interest in the undertaking. A negotiation with the New Zealand Company, as trustee for the Crown, for the purchase of land, terminated in the acquisition of 1,000,000 acres, subsequently conditionally increased to 2,400,000, which the Company had purchased of the natives for £2000, with a native reserve of 2400 acres. The Association offered this for sale at £3 per acre (gold and silver being retained by the crown), with certain pasturage advantages, reserving to themselves the right to reject any ineligible applicants.

The proceeds of the sales, from time to time accruing, were to be appropriated in 6 parts, in the following proportions:--

For religious and educational purposes 2 or 33 1/3 per cent.
For emigration........................... 2 or 33 1/3 per cent.
For miscellaneous purposes ............ 1 or 16 2/3 per cent.
For repayment of the purchase of the land 1 or 16 2/3 percent.

The fund arising from the appropriation for ecclesiastical and educational purposes was to be laid out in the erection of Churches, a College, Schools, residences for a Bishop, Archdeacon, Principal of the College, and Clergy, and also for providing stipends for a Bishop, Archdeacon, Clergymen, and Schoolmasters, which were respectively fixed at £1000, £600, £200, and £70 each per annum.

The fund for emigration was to provide for the passage to the colony of one labourer for every 15 acres of land parted with, the labourer to be nominated by the purchaser and approved of by the Association.

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The fund for miscellaneous purposes was to provide for a trigonometrical survey of the whole Settlement, the survey of selected sections, the commencement of trunk roads, the erection of temporary buildings, and the expenses incidental to the home and colonial offices.

The remaining part was not considered more than would be necessary to reimburse the New Zealand Company for the expenses incurred in their operations.

To Captain Thomas, a gentleman of considerable local experience, was entrusted, in concert with the Governor and Bishop of New Zealand, the responsible duty of selecting a site. Their choice fell upon the plains lying adjacent to Port Cooper, possessing the advantages of a good harbour, fertile and well watered plains, extensive grazing tracts, and a fine climate. The preliminary arrangements were confided to Mr. Godley, a gentleman who had taken a warm interest in the Association's plans from the commencement, who was in every respect well qualified to execute so arduous and responsible an undertaking, and whose success has been so complete as to reflect the highest credit on his zeal, judgment, and ability.

The Canterbury territory is comprised between 43 and 44 south latitude, and 171 to 172 east longitude, extending along the eastern coast of the middle island, and about half way across it, enclosing in an irregular form about 2,400,000 acres. It is bounded on the north by a low range of hills, beyond which extend for many miles a succession of downs covered with grasses of the most

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luxuriant growth; on the west by another range, mostly capped with snow, at the average distance of 40 or 50 miles; and on the south by a gradually ascending plain, also terminating in low hilly ranges. Jutting out from about the centre of the coast line is Bank's Peninsula, consisting of a conglomerate of hills about 3000 feet in height, densely wooded, and having many portions available for pasture.

Separating the port of Lyttleton from Christchurch, the chief town, is a range of hills about 2000 feet high, from the summit of which a spur, running westward, by a gradual descent of 3 miles, affords a communication between the two.

The general surface of the land is level, with a gentle ascent towards the south of about 25 feet, and towards the west of about 500. The soil within 10 miles of the coast consists of a light loam and rich mould, with a subsoil of blue clay resting upon sand or gravel. In some few places the country is swampy, and in others, during the winter, inundated, an evil said to be easily remedied by main drains, which are under consideration, but altogether yielding excellent cereal crops and affording the finest natural pasture for cattle and sheep. Every where there are indications of the country having been heavily timbered.

Numerous rivers and streams intersect the plains, running from the western range easterly or south easterly, excavating beds near their sources, some 300 feet in a perpendicular drop, generally rapid and shallow, though

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subject to a considerable rise after the prevalence of northwest winds which melt the snow in the adjoining hill ranges. The water of these rivers, especially of the central streams, in the language of hydropathists, can only be compared to nectar.

The Courtenay has a bar with 5 feet at low water, navigable for small vessels for 6 miles, but liable to floods within that distance during spring arising from the melted snow, and in autumn from the north-west rainy winds. The Courtenay and the Cholmondeley, excepting from the slight navigable advantages the former possesses, are considered rather as impediments than an acquisition. The latter is contained within high banks and is not navigable. The lesser streams between the Courtenay and the Selwyn, though small, may become useful by affording good water communication through the fertile districts, and good water power above for mills; they moreover possess the great advantage of never overflowing. The Avon is a fine stream rising through a gravel bed about 4 miles above Christchurch; at the latter place it is 5 feet deep, swelling into a navigable river, with a rise and fall not exceeding 2 feet: the banks vary in height from 5 to 20 feet. Near its mouth it receives the Heathcote, and shortly after, near Sumner, it empties itself into the sea. At the entrance there is a bar of 11 feet at high, and 5 feet at low, water.

The Ellesmere lake lies to the south-west of Bank's Peninsula, containing 10,000 acres, and is very shallow. Lake Coleridge is about 300 feet above the bed of the

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Cholmondeley, and enclosed among lofty and precipitous mountains.

Port Victoria, formerly Port Cooper, is situated in the north western angle of Bank's Peninsula, and has many excellent qualities, being easily approachable, with gradually shoaling water, having no bar at its entrance, and though open 1 1/4 points E. N. E. is considered to afford a fair anchorage to vessels provided with good ground gear. The only danger arises from a combination of a north-east gale with a heavy swell caused by violent south-east winds. This danger may be avoided by mooring or anchoring on the north side where the water is deeper. Large ships can anchor about 4 miles up, while brigs and large schooners may lie off the port town. There are no hidden dangers within, or at its entrance, where it is a mile wide. It is about 6 or 7 miles in length. The shore is bold, and though a swell sets in from the north-east it is no impediment to a ship unloading. Wood and water are not easily obtained; the neighbouring ports of Pigeon Bay and Port Levy have, however, an abundance of both, easily procurable, and moreover afford safe anchorages. The harbour receives additional importance from the circumstance of its being the only available one for export between the Kaikoras and the river Waitangi, comprising from 4 to 5,000,000 acres of excellent land.

Akaroa Bay is excellent; opening to the south, but somewhat dangerous for sailing vessels from its high and precipitous cliffs, narrow entrance, and turbulent sea. It

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is unfortunately separated from the Canterbury plains by a tract of hilly country about 30 miles in extent.

As regards its geological formation, the Canterbury block may be considered to consist of a loamy clay varying. in thickness to 10 feet, on a substratum of gravel slightly coherent and principally composed of schist, jasper, and quartz; in other parts it consists of a sandy loam with sandy clay subsoil; while nearer the mountains it is partly covered with stone but affording good pasture. Considerable quantities of peat are found on the Courtenay and Heathcote, and coal has also been discovered on the Selwyn, 40 miles from Christchurch: it appears to be from 6 to 10 fathoms in thickness, running east and west, and dipping to the southward at an angle of 30 or 40 degrees. Specimens which have been submitted to analysis and experiments indicate the presence of a great quantity of sulphur, but no traces of bituminous matter, leaving a residuum, after ignition, of brownish red hard clinkers.

The subject of climate having been fully noticed before, it is not necessary to enter fully into it in this place. The spring is mild, not unlike a spring in England. The summer is considered to be warm with much bright weather, a moderate amount of rain, and the prevalence of gales of wind from the north-west and north-east, which are represented as very disagreeable. During autumn the finest weather prevails, and towards its close slight frosts occur with unpleasant high winds from the southwest. The winter, viz. from the 15th of May,

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to the 15th of August, is characterized by fine days, frequent frosty nights and mornings, with an occasional gale from the south-west accompanied by heavy rain, and sometimes by a few falls of snow which disappear in a few hours. The sea breeze from the north east sets in about 10 a. m., freshens towards sunset, and is succeeded by a light and calm land breeze. The northwest wind is warm and dry, occasionally too hot, but succeeded by a pleasant south-wester.

The soil and climate of Canterbury are represented as particularly favourable to the growth of every species of European grain and fruit. --Potatoes yielding from 7 to 15 tons the acre without manure; wheat, and barley, and oats producing never less than 20 bushels the acre, and where the land has been carefully prepared twice that quantity, and even more. The cheese manufactured here is considered very fine, while the beef and mutton are unsurpassed. Ewes yield 105 per cent, of lambs; the small fine-woolled wether weighing 60 lbs. The weight of wool on ewes averages 3 1/2 lbs. and the fleece of the pure merino is said to yield 6 1/4 lbs. The plains of Canterbury may be regarded as greatly deficient in available timber; parties travelling are obliged to keep close to the banks of rivers to avail themselves of the immense quantities of drift wood lying about; and an additional inconvenience results from this paucity of timber in the want of shelter during the prevalence of strong winds in summer and winter. A forest of 200 acres, within 3 miles of Christchurch, is the only wood procurable for 8 miles.

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In the Oxford district, on the western side of the plains, there is an abundance of wood, as there is also further to the south, near to and upon the hills. Indeed, when the population becomes more dense, and there are greater facilities for transport, the wooded parts will be amply sufficient for the supply of the settlement.

Flax grows to the height of 5 to 8 feet along the banks of rivers or in moist districts. The grasses are the tufted and three others resembling the crested dog-tail and downy oat grass of England; these three kinds are very abundant in the grazing grounds and level country, and, where eaten down, are gradually forming a sward. The anise, geranium, and sow thistle are eaten by stock.

Among beasts, birds, and fishes, we may mention the rat, in abundance; crow; parson-birds, in numbers; wood-hen; hawk; quail, abundant; gull; paradise duck; black duck; teal; widgeon; pigeon; large red-brown parrot; putangi; pukeko; wild pig; eels; enaki, the young of which are like white bait; sole; herring; cod; and oysters.

Lyttleton, the port town, is situated about 4 miles from the mouth of the harbour on its northern shore. It is confined in its extent and somewhat deficient in water.

Christchurch, the chief town, is situated on the Avon, about 10 miles from Lyttleton, and separated from it by a range of hills. A road is under construction connecting the two: running towards the entrance of the harbour and crossing the range at an elevation of 650 feet and at a distance of about 2 miles; descending the same

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distance it reaches Sumner on the plains: it now runs between the hills and an estuary of the sea for about 3 miles, at the head of which it crosses the Heathcote and enters Christchurch at the distance of 4 miles. The gradient over the hill is gentle, being 1 in 20. There is also a communication by water round Godley-head, but it is considered impracticable in bad weather; there is also a bridle path at the height of 1260 feet. This indifferent, expensive, and uncertain communication has induced some parties, who are otherwise well satisfied with the capabilities of the settlement, to hesitate about emigrating thither. The disadvantage is doubtless a serious one, but there are no difficulties which cannot be surmounted by an expenditure of £20,000 or £30,000. It would be an interesting inquiry whether an equal sum has not been expended for a similar purpose by the patrons of Auckland and Wellington, which have not such agricultural mines behind from which to extract repayment. The uncertainty of the sea communication which sometimes assumes the form of a few weeks continuous detention, and the bold attitude of defiance which the range of hills between the port and the chief town has established against intercommunication has led the thoughts of many an adventurous colonist deep into the bowels of the earth; in fact, through a tunnel of about a mile in length. Of the feasibility of such a step our own railway experience amply testifies; of its immediately repaying the outlay is another and a more serious question.

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On reviewing the facts which have come under observation, I feel disposed to accord to the Canterbury settlement, if not a preeminence, at least a position second to none in New Zealand. As an agricultural country it has great advantages, in a light soil well adapted for every description of crop, wheat excepted, and capable of being well drained. I have been informed, on authority which I could not question, that one acre has actually produced 70 bushels of wheat; but then this is no criterion: such nuggets are only found occasionally. The average yield does not exceed 25 or 30 bushels. The barley is reported to be very fine and obtains 10s the bushel, and wheat 12s. These rates are high, and would richly repay the producer, were not wages equally so. An instance has lately been mentioned to me where 30s per week for the whole year was refused. Again, timber is very dear either for fuel or fencing. These are drawbacks, but the person not deterred by such spectres may secure a section of 50 acres from £80 to £100, and if he have spare cash he may invest it under his own immediate observation at 10 per cent, or anticipating a future demand for land, buy from the Government at the rate of 5s. to 10s. the acre, the former for agricultural, the latter for pastoral land. Flocks and herds are reported to be occupying much of the latter, which is represented as well adapted for sheep farming.


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NELSON.

The settlement of Nelson was formed in the year 1841, by the New Zealand Company, and in the October of the same year the first body of emigrants arrived. Having previously alluded to the controversies between the local Government and the Company respecting the land claimed by the latter, it is unnecessary in this place to say more than that the location of the settlement at Nelson was more the result of accident and necessity than of decided preference. Port Cooper, now the settlement of Canterbury, was selected; but permission for its occupation was refused by the Government, which it is said was desirous of concentrating the European population in the neighbourhood of Auckland. Owing to there being only 20,000 acres of suitable land in Blind Bay, out of the 70,000 which were reported as available to meet the colonists' demands of 112,000, Massacre Bay to the westward, and Cloudy Bay to the eastward, were explored; but negotiations for the occupation of the lands in these quarters terminated unsuccessfully.

It is difficult to ascertain on whom the responsibility of the sad tragedy of Wairau rests. The Government, in opposing the survey of the land, acted upon the opinion that the validity of the claim should be established in the first place; the Agent of the Company regarded the validity as beyond all question; and the natives, but little acquainted with moral and passive opposition, resist-

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ed by force the attempted survey and seizure. The question appears to have been difficult of adjustment, for in 1846 the Wairau plains in Cloudy Bay were finally purchased from the natives by an additional payment and attached to the Nelson district. The earlier colonists had to endure much privation and suffering which gave rise to controversies between them and the Company. The amount of land purchased by absentees provided means for the importation of a larger quantity of labour than the resident landowners could employ, and in consequence a large portion left for other settlements, while, to retain the remainder, employment was given them by the Company on works of questionable utility; a policy much objected to, as it not only wasted funds, but raised the price of labour. Complaints were made that the ecclesiastical support given by the Company was partial, being chiefly confined to the Episcopal Church; that charges were improperly made on the emigration fund; that educational objects and intercolonial communication were neglected; that of the 51 acres which, up to 1848, each had received in lieu of an allotment of 201, one half was useless, while the whole price of 30s. per acre had been paid. The Company met these charges by denying any partiality in its ecclesiastical disbursements, while they allowed a liability to the settlers of £57,000; and by ascribing many of the sufferings to which the colonists were exposed to the unwarrantable interference of Government with their operations. Compensation to the extent of 15,000 acres

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has been awarded to resident proprietors, 8000 to absentees, and 40,000 additional will be required to meet the demands of the latter class.

The settlement of Nelson may be considered as extending along the southern shore of Cook's Straits, including Blind Bay and Cloudy Bay, with the exception of the mountain tracts separating the two. A portion of Massacre Bay is also attached to Nelson. The chief town and original settlement is at the southern extremity of Blind Bay.

Massacre Bay is the most westward of the three bays, and situated at the entrance of Cook's Straits: it is distant about 50 miles from Nelson by sea, and it is with much difficulty reached by land. Of the 45,000 acres of adjoining comparatively level land, not more than 25,000, partly inundated, are fit for agricultural purposes, and of that not more than half could be cultivated successfully. It is without an harbour of any consequence. Coal and lime are procurable in some abundance; plumbago of good quality exists, and great quantities of the finest timber are available.

Blind Bay contains very little available land, and that not in immediate connection with the harbour. Of the 60,000 or 70,000 acres, less than one half, as above stated, is suited to agricultural purposes, and that generally situated in detached strips between spurs of mountain ranges, and exposed to floods and high winds.

Cloudy Bay is situated at the eastern entrance of Cook's Straits. The adjacent land, including the Wake-

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field downs, consists of about 200,000 acres, one half of which only is fit for agriculture. The Wairau plains, included in the above, consist of about 60,000 acres, extending from the bay, southward, to the distance of about 70 miles; with an average width, for the first 11 miles, of 8 or 10 miles, and of 2 or 3 for the remainder, with a gentle slope towards the sea of 20 feet to the mile. Four or 5 miles of the district, adjoining the coast, are swampy; the rest, 8 or 10, covered with fine grass, which continues to within 18 or 20 miles of the end, where it is stony and well wooded. Though much of this land is available for cattle and agriculture, it is principally as a sheep farming district that the grassy slopes, extending as far as the Kaikoras, which stretch across the island in latitude 42, will be valuable. The best communication between Nelson and the Wairau will probably be by following the river Matai, crossing the Pelorus, and entering the plains about 15 miles from the sea, making the distance between the two about 30 miles. The natives, in anticipation of the purchase of the intervening land, have allowed the new road to be constructed.

The harbour of Nelson is on the south-eastern coast of Blind Bay. A series of high bluff lands, about 150 feet in height, run along the eastern side of Blind Bay until within 10 or 12 miles of its southern extremity, when the coast recedes and is less elevated. From this point a bank of boulder stones continues, running southward, parallel to the high land and half a mile in its rear,

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until within a few hundred yards of the shore. The space enclosed between this boulder-bank and the receded coast forms the harbour: at its north end is a flax swamp of about 2 miles, containing 200 acres of land, on a substratum of roots and decayed timber; below this is a mud flat extending for 5 miles, which is covered at high water, and the remaining mile and a half is the harbour. A vessel entering should keep well down until it arrived at the end of the boulder-bank, when it should take a course E. N. E. sailing between the extremity of the bank and the channel rocks, where the passage is about 400 yards wide. Vessels should enter on the flood tide, and leave it at, or just before, high water. The harbour is capable of holding vessels of from 500 to 600 tons, or drawing under 17 feet of water, with excellent holding ground, abundant water, and shelter. The depth of water in the channel of the entrance is from 15 to 18 feet, and on the bar, 2 miles outside, 22 feet at the springs, high water, and 9 feet at low water.

The longitude of the Magazine is 173 ,, 16 ,, 5 E
The latitude.............. ,, 41 ,, 15 ,, 30 S
The variation of the compass ,, 15 ,, 5 E

Port Underwood has been under consideration as likely to afford an harbour from which the produce of the Wairau Plains might be exported; but, as it consists only of a succession of coves insufficiently sheltered, and too distant from a port town, its other natural advanta-

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ges would be of no avail: it is, moreover, 10 miles distant from the mouth of the Wairau river.

Queen Charlotte's Sound is admirably situated, being placed at right angles to the winds which prevail in the straits. It is 25 miles in length and 9 miles wide at the entrance, being a collection of the finest harbours in the world. The tides are regular, no hidden dangers are within, the soundings gradually deepen from 7 to 36 fathoms mid channel, and the shores are bold and well wooded. The only caution required in its navigation is, that the set of the flood tide is to the northern, of the ebb to the southern, head, of the mouth. There is sufficient land, amid the most enchanting scenery, in the vicinity for a port town. The communication between it and the Wairau by land is all but impracticable, as also with Port Underwood.

The Wairau river has a bar at its mouth, and it is only with a north-westerly wind that even small vessels can pass it and proceed to sea.

The climate of Nelson appears to be acknowledged as the finest in New Zealand. It is scarcely possible to say anything more decided in its favour; wind, rain, and heat appear to be so equably apportioned that the transitions of the seasons are scarcely perceptible. The indigenous vegetation is evergreen. Plants which are carefully treasured up in the more genial temperature of a window with a southern aspect in England during the winter months, not only live but blossom during the same period at Nelson in the open air. Is the inference an

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unjust one, that many a fair sufferer who in our native country flits at the fall of the leaf to Madeira or the south of England to enjoy but a precarious and short-timed respite, would here find that she might not only live, but bloom in security?

The extreme heat of the hottest day........is 89
The mean average heat of the hottest month [is] 70
The extreme cold of the coldest day ......[is] 29

The mean average cold of the coldest month,, 50 The average number of fine sunny days are 229; of fair and cloudy, 46; of showery, 66; of continuous rain, 23. The average annual fall of rain is 34.59 inches, and the average number of frosty mornings 55. N. E. and S. W. are the prevalent fine weather winds during the greater part of the year. In summer the N. E. or sea breeze is fresh; in autumn the S. W. or land breeze is more prevalent; in spring the S. and S. E. The N. W. and westerly are the most rainy winds.

Nature appears to have decided that Nelson should not combine within herself all the advantages which a settler desires when he sighs for an Eden amid the lands of the Pacific. It stands preeminent for the deliciousness of its climate, which is represented "as most enjoyable, elevating the spirits and imparting an unaccountable charm to one's existence; enabling a person cheerfully to bear what in England would be deemed a degradation, and also to suffer sundry vexations arising from the bad state of the roads, floods, impertinence of servants, &c. with great equanimity." "Indeed," says

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a fellow traveller, "I can only compare the depth of our winter to fine September weather in England." Thus blessed in its climate, Nelson may well be somewhat indifferent to the sneer which not seldom accompanies a reference to its scanty dimensions. The extent of cultivated ground, and the excellence of a 30 mile inland road, may justly claim some consideration when comparing it with the other settlements.

The price of farms fluctuates so greatly and so constantly, that much dependance cannot be placed upon any statements on the subject. Near the town, land unfenced and uncultivated averages from £4 to £12 an acre, and that which is more remote from 50s to £5 an acre; and even more, according to its nature. The rich alluvial spots are but few, the general run of the agricultural land being proof against anything but high farming.

The intercommunication among districts hemmed in by steep and rugged mountains will be, for many years at least, difficult, uncertain, and expensive. The grant by the provincial Council of £1500 for roads in the Blind Bay district, and a similar sum for the Waimeea and Wairau districts, will do much to facilitate this intercourse; and a further sum of £2000 for steam communication will, at least, enable the colonists to get their steam up and enjoy their home politics with a little more zest than hitherto. Nelson appears to have been selected as the final resting place of many highly intelligent individuals, men of good ability and experience, sober minded and of sound judgment, whose acquaintance

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would be an acquisition in any country. Labour is high and to be obtained with difficulty; £30 to £50 is given with board and lodging for a single individual. Provisions are dear, as the following specimens will evidence: Bread 14d the 41b. loaf, meat 9d the lb., butter 16d the lb., wheat 9s to 10s the bushel, oats 8s to 9s, firewood 30s the cord. All this is good for the producer, but rather puzzling to the consumer. The average yield of an acre of wheat is from 25 to 30 bushels. Any spare cash may be invested at 10 per cent on good local security, or in sheep which would give a handsome return.


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