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TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES
OF
AN OFFICER'S WIFE
IN
INDIA, CHINA, AND NEW ZEALAND.
BY
MRS. MUTER ,
WIFE OF LIEUT.-COLONEL D. D. MUTER,
THIRTEENTH (PRINCE ALBERT'S) LIGHT INFANTRY.
LONDON:
HURST AND BLACKETT, PUBLISHERS,
SUCCESSORS TO HENRY COLBURN,
13, GREAT MARLBOROUGH STREET.
1864.
The right of Translation is reserved.
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PRINTED BY MACDONALD AND TUGWELL,
BLENHEIM HOUSE.
[CONTENTS]
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CONTENTS
OF
THE SECOND VOLUME.
CHAPTER I.
A Visit to Canton--Harbour and Shipping--Whampoa-- A Floating Town--Residence of the General at Canton-- Chinese Art--Sloping Pagoda, --Head of the Police-- Expert Thieves--Chinese Shops--Suburbs of Canton-- Mandarins in the Streets--Marriage and Funeral Processions--Fabrics and Labour--Glass-blowing--Cook-shop --Temple of the Five Hundred Worthies--Sacred Animals--Hunting for Curios.....1
CHAPTER II.
Rain in Canton--Fort Gough--Tombs of Ancestors--Chinese Floriculture--Dwarf Plants--The Living and the Dead--Large Population--Indians and Chinese Compared--Visit to Macao--Lavish Expenditure......29
CHAPTER III.
The Formosa Channel--Coast of Shautung--Harbour of Chefoo--Passage over the Bar--The South Fort--A Sham Discomfort and Luxury--The French Fort--Mistake of
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Sanko-lin-sin--Temporary Works in the Country--Fine Race of People--Takoo--Voyage of the Gun-boat--Arrival at Tientsin.......42
CHAPTER IV.
Occupation of Tientsin--Bird's-eye View--Tartar City--The Chinese City--British Forces--Comparison between Tientsin and London--Fine Men and Pretty Girls --Hawkers and Porters--Street Sights and Sounds--Fur Robes--Donkey-riding--Playing at Soldiers...........59
CHAPTER V.
Promenading in a Mandarin Chair--Our House--Joss House where Lord Elgin signed the Treaty--Hot Season--Unhealthiness of the Climate--My Tientsin Servant--Chinese Ideas of Bathing--Price of Provisions-- Amusements--Painting and Sculpture--Bargaining-- Festivals--Chinese Museum--Martial Law--Tea............77
CHAPTER VI.
Chops--The Waters of the Peiho--Villages--Singular Landscape--Wedding Anniversary--Tung-Chow--Privilege of using Mandarin Chairs--Chinese Curiosity-- Beggars--Difference of Taste--Road to Peking--Murder of an English Officer--Traffic--Chinese Lanterns-- Gates of Peking.......100
CHAPTER VII.
The Seat of Government--Peculiarities of the Imperial City--South-Eastern Gate--The Streets and Houses-- Advertisements and Shops--Residence of the English Ambassador--Portrait of the Queen--Mr. Brace's Private Apartments--The Imperial Palaces.................118
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CHAPTER VIII.
Visit to the French Embassy--Ignorance in Road-Making-- The Slamma Temple and the Bonzes--Peking Curios-- Roman Catholic Cathedral--Missionaries--Market Gardens--The Yuen-Ming-Yuen--Announcement of the Emperor's Death--The Hunting Tour--Official Memorials...........137
CHAPTER IX.
A Merry Party--The Chinese Wall--Idea of a Chinese City--A Visit to the Observatory--Astronomical Instruments--Extensive View--Competitive Examinations-- Opinions respecting Peking--My Impressions--Route from St. Petersburg--Prospect of Departure.............158
CHAPTER X.
Ideas of Japan--Homeward Bound--An Iron Ship in a Storm--Her Danger--An Appalling Sight--A Foundered Ship--Effects of Circular Gales--Overland Mail--Our Boxes--Arrival at Singapore--Memorial Monument at Tientsin--Port Louis--Simon's Bay--Lotteries at Sea-- Visit to the Admiral at Cape Town--Ascension--Turtle Ponds--Cape de Verde Islands--Arrival in England..........173
CHAPTER XI.
The Snares at New Zealand--Amaru--Bank's Peninsular Chain of Mountains--Extensive Conflagration--Harbour of Lyttelton--Disappointed Emigrants--New Zealand Hotel--Canterbury Plains--Harbour of Akaroa-- Progress of the Fire--Forest Trees--Valley of German Bay--Maories--Road to Lyttelton--Scenery..........201
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CHAPTER XII.
Christchurch, the City of the Plains--Its Streets, Houses, and Shops---Market-Day--Squatters and Farmers-- Plague of Flies--The Climate--The Cathedral and. Church Accommodation--Dearness of Articles of Consumption--Post Office System--Police--Roads..........231
CHAPTER XIII.
Embankments and Fences--New Zealand Flax--Mountain Ranges--Mineral Wealth--Atmospheric Changes--High Winds--Scab in Sheep--Rich Settlers--Value of Land-- Carriage--Live Stock--Profit on Sheep--Game--Horseracing--Cooks and Cookery--Society in New Zealand-- Delusions--Wool--Value of Emigration...............249
CHAPTER XIV.
Ignorance of New Zealand and the Aborigines--The Question of Paying for a Maori War--Separation of Governments--The Native Race--Seat of Government--Union is Strength--Conduct of the Troops--Position of the Commander-in-chief--Military Force required in New Zealand.........276
CHAPTER XV.
New Zealand as a Colony--The North Islands--Selection of Fields for Emigration--Liberality of the Government --Departure from Christchurch--Extravagant Charges-- Mismanagement of the Post-Office--Effects of the Gold Discoveries--Young Lady Emigrants--Miss Rye's Scheme --Ceylon...........293
