1864 - Muter, E. Travels and Adventures of an Officer's Wife in India, China and New Zealand. [NZ Sections only] - CHAPTER XV, p 293-314

[Image of page 293]

CHAPTER XV.

THESE islands have been styled the "Britain of the South," a name that conveys a wrong impression, in my opinion, to the minds of emigrants. At present the colony resembles the mother country only in being formed of two main islands, about equal in size, and situated in a temperate latitude. It bears little resemblance, that I could see, in its general features, in its climate, or in its soil. England is undulating, with sluggish streams--New Zealand is rugged and mountainous, with im-

[Image of page 294]

petuous torrents. England is dull and hazy-- New Zealand is bright and sunny. England is the land most highly cultivated--New Zealand is that most in a state of nature.

It is a country of the grand and the picturesque, of huge mountains and glaciers, of dark ravines and wintry torrents, of vast unknown lakes, of broad bare grass plains and downs, and of impenetrable forests. If I wished for a contrast, I should have it in a comparison between such a territory and the finished beauties of rural England. The face of the earth may be changed by cultivation, but no change can be effected that will make these countries resemble each other.

On first landing, the immigrant is impressed with a conviction of the difficulty of solving the question, By what means can the mountain chain be penetrated for internal communication? Then see how nature has distributed the wood! She has left by far the greater portion of the land devoid even of a stick, and gathered over the richest soil a forest so dense and matted that the land cannot be cultivated for generations to come.

The north island is, like Bank's Peninsula, on a large scale. The conformation of its hills will

[Image of page 295]

render communication of extreme difficulty; yet the skill of the engineer has overcome greater obstacles than those presented by either island. Whatever may be the temporary inconvenience entailed by the distribution of the timber, it is in reality the chief advantage offered by the southern provinces. For the same reason that emigration flows through Canada to the prairie States of America, Auckland and Wellington will be deserted for Canterbury and Southland.

I believe Western Canada to be a finer country than Towa, and the north island than the south; but the prairies of the States, like the prairie of Canterbury, are level and unwooded, ready for the plough, and therefore giving at once a return for labour, and an export from stock. Canada may offer her lands cheaper than the States, and add many inducements besides, yet this one outweighs all. Canterbury offers, if anything, worse land at four times the price of any northern province, yet draws to her exchequer, from the sale, more than all of them put together.

Those who take interest in the progress of the Colonies may learn much by studying the career of these provinces. Indeed they will see epito-

[Image of page 296]

mized, contracted to a space so small that their tendency is easily perceived, the causes which influence emigration in our empire. It is there clearly shewn that neither the price of waste land nor its fertility is equal in importance to the adaptability of the soil to immediate use--the question of a quick return; also, that land itself is but secondary, the chief influence being the price of labour. The main stream will always flow where labour commands the highest wages; for labour is all most emigrants possess.

Within twelve months Otago had attracted a greater immigration than all the other provinces did in five years, because the gold fields enabled that province to offer greater inducements to labour than any other district of the South Seas. Thus, cheap land is abandoned for poorer land at a high price, because the dear land is more readily available, and both the dear and the cheap land excite little attention, while a rush is made to a place hitherto only known to those cunning in geography) for labour can there realize the highest return. All this bears on a question once eagerly discussed, and which may any day arise again--the relative

[Image of page 297]

powers of attraction of low-priced over high-priced land, and that of high wages.

The selection of fields for emigration caused us much surprise in our rambles through the colonies, and in no country were the blunders made more conspicuous than in New Zealand. A good reason may be advanced for Eastern Canada being settled before Western Canada, and even why the western district of the Cape should be colonized before the eastern. In these provinces conquest preceded settlement by us, and other nations selected the site. Australia, however, wholly owes her birth to us, New South Wales being selected first and Victoria last. Yet the latter is' now equal in exports and population to all the others put together.

I consider New Zealand to be the best colony we possess, and it was the last of all to which emigration was directed. When the stream did flow to these islands it went to the wrong end first. Let the population and the exports now state whether it was right to found Wellington and Auckland before Canterbury and Otago,

Though time has corrected these mistakes, still they have a mischievous effect. Those who go first should be located on the best tracts, as it gives to

[Image of page 298]

the settlers a roving spirit, injurious to themselves and to the community, when strong inducements arise, leading them to abandon the selected district and the work performed, for another land offering superior attractions.

These reasons will show the importance of diffusing a more correct knowledge of our colonial empire, yet they are as nothing weighed against the one astounding fact, that the chief emigration of the country is directed to a foreign land. To those who know the colonies, and something of the advantages offered by the United States of America, calculating on the lowest basis of materialism, it is very difficult to realize this fact.

If Great Britain has been liberal in any of her acts, she has been pre-eminently so in her late policy towards her settlements. At a considerable expense she has nourished them into communities, and given them unbounded, perhaps too much, liberty. She has prepared carefully many fair provinces as a home for her surplus population. Some hot, some cold, some temperate, both near and afar off, with boundless plains, unwooded and open to the plough, with grassy downs, with great mountain chains, dense forests or park-

[Image of page 299]

like lands--a wheat, a cotton, or a sugar country --many dry, with scarcely any rain, others rolling down a flood of water through every hollow to the sea. She offers a residence on the coast, on a great river, or on a lake large as the ocean. No foreign land can hold out to her people anything that her own dominions has not got--except a slave. Then, why should any portion of her people choose a foreign land?

It is not easy to divert emigration, nor advisable for the Government to interfere, however deplorable may be the exodus of our countrymen to the States of America. The press is the only engine with power to direct the flow, and its influence might be thus used beneficially both to those who go, and to those who remain. The rise of her loyal colonies materially strengthens England, perhaps to an extent little appreciated. She sends out cargoes of poverty, relieving her workhouses, reducing poor-rates, and usefully employing a superabundant energy, that might otherwise become dangerous in times of distress.

Out of the many that go a few return with princely incomes, and the rest create a demand for her produce, and supply the raw material of her

[Image of page 300]

manufactures. But this source of wealth flowing to the States, does little else than increase the strength of a country every year growing more and more hostile. The Irish who settle in Canada become loyal subjects, and their children Canadian in tone and feeling, while those located in the States simply swell the number of England's enemies. We cannot afford to have the people we rear changed to blustering Yankee British-haters, to have the stream of life, which every consideration, both moral and material, would direct into English channels, diverted to add to the greatness of a country professing enmity, while it detracts in the same proportion from the progress of our empire. Were emigration into the States stopped, the world would be astonished at the speedy collapse of their boasted prosperity.

This subject of emigration is of the widest interest to the future of our race, and to the peace of the world. If a family of nations grow up, led by Great Britain in bonds of respect and love, and bound by ties of kindred, the object of human progress will be advanced. In questions of justice, a combination of such states might be decisive; and right only could bind them together. They

[Image of page 301]

could have no common object for aggression, and would be strong--as police.

Unless forcibly transplanted, the off-shoots of England will grow up in her shade, interweaving their history with hers, till, as nations, they commence a page of their own. Then, as before, their pride will be to regard themselves as boughs from the great oak of England, whose noble trunk created, and still circulates the sap of life to their expanding branches and rustling leaves. Even now they are bound by silken cords which, if they chafe at all, are felt only by the mother country. The tendency is too clear to be mistaken, and the time nears when even this slight tie will cease to exist. Ere these young countries become independent nations, it may be hoped that they will erect thrones for the princes of the Royal family who may be induced to occupy such seats.

We left Christchurch on the 13th April, returning by the Sumner Road. From Lyttelton I had walked over the bridle-path, and drove from the foot of the hills to Christchurch. The mere cartage of our few portmanteaus cost thirty shillings. A stranger is apt to conclude that the people of these provinces prey upon each other. Wherever

[Image of page 302]

he turns he is met by extravagant charges, which are justified on the plea that everybody pays them, and that he who makes them pays everybody in the same ratio. It is the labourer, in every sense, that gathers the harvest. When the farmer's crops must be secured or spoiled, then no charge for work is too exorbitant. The extortion of boatmen, carters, and commission agents leads the shopkeepers to demand three times the cost price on retailing their goods. If they are pressed for money the lender thinks he is moderate in only taking fifteen per cent, interest; and so on, the one re-acting on the other, till they have made the southern provinces of New Zealand the most expensive country on earth. What a place for a person with a fixed income, who desires to live in peace!

The Lord Ashley, from the north to Dunedin, being signalled, Colonel M. saw the boxes carted to the wharf. On the steamer drawing alongside the baggage proved to have been put down about thirty yards from where she lay, yet she declined to receive them till placed close by the gangway, although no means were available on the spot to take them on board. One of our friends helped

[Image of page 303]

my husband to carry them to the place indicated by the mate, and while thus engaged his umbrella was picked up by a person who stooped to steal, though not to work. The packages were piled by some cabin furniture of ours, which had been lying in the stores of the agents for the Company, and had been placed by them alongside. Then a second application to the mate to take them on board was also refused. The vessel was detained for a day after the time advertised, and the things remained where they were, during a period every hour of which threatened rain.

It was not till late, after three visits, and a final threat to hold the Company responsible for anything injured or stolen, that they were thrown in so roughly that one was smashed to pieces, others damaged, and all bundled upside down, in a position to be deluged by the dirty water on washing the decks of this cattle-carrying ship. The distance is under two hundred miles, yet the passage-money was ten pounds for us both, besides the charge made by the agents for putting the baggage on board. A charge so exorbitant should at least ensure attention on so important a point, though, in justice to the Inter-Colonial Company, I must

[Image of page 304]

add that their boats are well-equipped, and the arrangements for their passengers in other respects liberal and good.

In Christchurch we had posted a letter for the captain of the Arima, about to sail from Dunedin to Calcutta, to secure a cabin, and to get particulars. After waiting in vain for an answer, we were proceeding to Port Chalmers on chance, and when steaming up an eager look was fixed on each vessel, till we were relieved by a sight of the red iron masts of the new clipper. The captain had not received the letter posted, and he had been detained by a mere accident, being ready to proceed for several days. The pilot was on board, and he had to delay for some hours to take us. This was the second letter of ours we knew to be lost by the post-office during our short stay; the first being an English letter delivered to my husband in Lyttelton, where he re-posted it to me at Akaroa.

I was disappointed in this quick departure, having hoped to visit Dunedin. Within late years all conjecture has been set at defiance, by the magical creation of paltry and unknown villages into cities of world-wide importance within the dominions of the two great nations who speak the English

[Image of page 305]

language. The potent and magic spell has been the discovery of gold-fields, and the latest, and perhaps the richest, are those which have Dunedin as an outlet. But two or three years had elapsed since the site was occupied by a struggling Scottish village, where English and Irish were said to be snarled at as intruders; but few tested its truth, as it was placed in a region supposed to be the coldest and most inhospitable in New Zealand. Its younger sister of Canterbury distanced it shortly after being founded, growing with far greater rapidity in wealth and population.

In these few months, this was reversed, and Dunedin became the commercial capital of the colony, exceeding all the other ports together in inhabitants, riches, and trade. Melbourne was made by an exodus from Europe, but Dunedin as yet has been created by an influx from the neighbouring colonies, principally from Melbourne. Hitherto these gold-fields have attracted little attention in England, but it requires no spirit of prophecy to foretel that the time approaches when a considerable emigration will be directed there.

With auriferous tracts, vast and rich, with a wide extent of open fertile waste lands, an invigo-

[Image of page 306]

rating and healthy climate, and an unusual export of gold now counted by millions, what will be the progress of this province when the emigrating public fix their attention upon it? If its powers of attraction have made its advance magical, while their influence extended within so narrow a circle, though the strongest proof of their drawing force, I think the colonists may well expect, when the circle embraces the globe, that Dunedin is destined to the fastest rise of any city that ever sprang from the soil of our dominions. Of course this will hinge on the result of the explorations of the west coast, where, if richer fields and a suitable harbour are discovered, then, Dunedin, farewell to your fairy-like future, though a good agricultural capital you must always be.

On nearing the Heads, it was evident we were approaching an important city. A large steamer was coming up from the south, two or three vessels were beating down the coast, and a big emigrant ship with studding sails aloft was running for the port, where the masts of many vessels might be observed riding at anchor outside.

We moved for some distance after entering, with a mud flat on our right, and a sandy, barren-

[Image of page 307]

looking bluff on our left, the site of a wretched lighthouse. Straight before us, on the curve of a sandy hill, were two white pillars, the one standing behind the other, evidently to give a line to ships going up. Turning to the right, with the bend of the channel we neared the high land, on that side passing between wide reaches of mud. We ran under and skirted along hills covered with timber, except where cleared in a few patches by a long line, of vessels at anchor, and drew up close to a projection which stretched into the channel. Its extremity seemed rocky and covered with scrub, and its low neck was open, with a few houses scattered about, and a wharf jutting from the beach towards the shipping. We were in the anchorage facing the town of Port Chalmers.

I believe the passage from this spot to the city to be very beautiful in scenery, with little wooded bays formed by shelving spurs, as at Akaroa, to the extremity of the estuary, where the city stands, at a short distance from the open ocean. This peninsula is therefore almost an island, the harbour of Port Chalmers forming the channel between it and the main land. At night a ship advancing from the south sees the lights of Dune-

[Image of page 308]

din, though she has to pass many miles around this peninsula ere she reaches her anchorage in Port Chalmers on the opposite side.

When looking for the Arima, I noticed the John Duncan, which recalled the fact that in this ship Miss Rye and the young lady emigrants had just been brought to the colony. A fertile theme was suggested to my mind, as I was much interested in that lady and her noble and philanthropic intentions. Till she places her own experience before the world, and contradicts by reliable facts the opinion, I hold her plan to be an attempt to reconcile fire and water, to mix oil with the ingredients of the ocean, or to leaven a mass which rejects the leaven and which the leaven abhors. The test of experience quickly dissolves theories and schemes, however beautiful and desirable, when they are impracticable; and Miss Rye probably discovered her high hopes were unattainable when she brought the machinery into actual operation.

To say the least, the colony is, as yet, unripe for what she proposed, and I grieve to add I do not know a colony that is ripe for it. If there be not a place for educated men without capital, there is not likely to be such a place for educated women.

[Image of page 309]

The brothers of these ladies could only maintain themselves in the new province by descending to the most menial labour, losing their places in society, and perhaps acquiring low vices, as well as low manners. This has been proved by endless instances, and, to my mind, is a conclusive argument that an infant community is the last place for poor and unfriended girls.

If the colony offers no inducement, and regards them as an incumbrance, the class shrink with aversion and horror from the community among whom they are thrown. Surely Miss Rye does not lead to the antipodes a young lady to place her as a dairy-maid in an uncouth establishment where wild cows are milked? Yet can she make her a positive offer of any other situation not merely speculative? And I maintain that not even this is always open to one unaccustomed to labour.

I trust a faithful narrative of the experiment may be placed before the public; and I will be much surprised if it does not contain a melancholy statement of embarrassment to Miss Rye herself, of embarrassment to the provincial government, and of embarrassment to the poor girls. But I again

[Image of page 310]

record the high opinion I entertain of this courageous and energetic effort, and the pleasure I would feel even in its partial success. I know that only half the subject is before me. I can see the colonial side, but not the English. I can see what the girls come to, but not what they leave behind. Absolute want has no argument, and even the uncouth wild cow establishment is preferable to starvation.

He who has beaten against the westerly gales, that usher in the winter from the Snares to the Leenwin, will never again willingly put his foot on salt water. For seven weeks I lost count of time, and my life became a dreamy nightmare, with conscious intervals, when I awoke to the painful reality, instead of awaking to shake off a disagreeable delusion. Sometimes I was startled at the concussion of a mighty wave that shook the ship, and seemed to sweep all before it. Sometimes great commotions arose on deck, and the loud voice of the captain sounded above the gale on sudden shifts from north-west to south-west, catching the vessel aback, and rattling her steel yards and wire rigging as if deliberately bent on testing their strength.

[Image of page 311]

The change on rounding the Leenwin, and getting into the trade wind, was from wild and ceaseless storm to placid weather, from danger and discomfort to the pleasure of a calm serenity, magnified by the contrast. The climate at sea I have generally found uniformly fine as well as healthy, so I was unprepared for the weeks of gales, the one following the other, with lulls or intervals of but a few hours. The ship had been built to test a new combination of materials, with ribs of iron and sides of teak, fastened with bolts of copper, under a patent by which the action of the copper on the iron is prevented. Her masts were iron funnels, her yards of steel, and her standing rigging of wire. She was of a beautiful model, though small, very swift, and an admirable sea-boat, but so light and quick in her movements, that in the stern cabins water was jerked out of the basins, and things not secured actually jumped from their places. Her captain seemed to be well satisfied with the way she had stood a battering so tremendous, but she would not have escaped so well had she been heavily laden instead of in ballast trim.

In these howling storms, the courage, energy,

[Image of page 312]

and perseverance of such discoverers as Cook came forcibly on my mind. We who now follow in his footsteps, can form only a faint idea of the bravery and self-devotion of men like him. Our ship was the highest effort of nautical skill and mechanical art; the winds could be prognosticated; the coasts, rocks, and currents were known. The more we learn of Cook's discoveries, the higher becomes his reputation, a memory now only in infant proportion, but destined to grow with time.

On the 21st June we sighted Ceylon, ran up the Bay of Bengal with the south-west monsoon, and made out the Pagoda of Juggernauth on the 26th. The barometers were low, falling as we advanced, while the weather grew more and more threatening, so the captain put out to sea. The dense black clouds during the night discharged torrents of rain, accompanied by a strong westerly gale, which cleared up on the evening of the following day, and at midnight we sighted the light on False Point.

The approach to Calcutta is one of the greatest difficulty. The southerly monsoon blows straight on shore, rolling in heavy breakers on sands ex-

[Image of page 313]

tending for hundreds of miles--piled up and ever increasing from the drift of the rivers Ganges and Burrampoota. A ship may strike while land is far beyond the sight. Many vessels had accumulated, as the bad weather had compelled the pilot brigs to run to sea. Only one had returned, and she was distributing her pilots to ships bearing down in all directions. Again rise before me the endless sand heads; again come Sangur, Kedgeree, and Mud Point. Again the broad basin of Diamond Harbour; but the season has changed the hue of the banks--a fresh and vivid green pervades nature, and on each side I look over boundless miles of level, wooded, and emerald country. From the yellow grass of the Canterbury plains the change for a time is charming; but the clear bracing atmosphere of New Zealand, its snow-covered mountains and blue streams, are soon missed. I land; and the first impression is that I am in a climate of degenerate animals--wretched men, wretched ponies, wretched cattle.

I have completed the circle, and I leave my readers in the country where I first made their acquaintance. But a few hours will have been

[Image of page 314]

CONCLUSION,

added to the lives of those who have had the patience to read these pages, though, the period of my life they embrace extends over six years.

THE END.

LONDON: PRINTED BY MACDONALD AND TUGWELL, BLENHEIM HOUSE.