1935 - Stack, J. W. Early Maoriland Adventures of J. W. Stack - [Front matter] p 1-22

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THE RECORDED JOURNEYS OF JAMES WEST STACK

(1) 1835. From Puriri, Thames, to Mangapouri at the junction of the Waipa and Puniu Rivers. (James West Stack was born at Puriri during his parents' journey from Paihia to Mangapouri.)

(2) 1836-7. From Mangapouri to south side of Manukau Harbour (probably by way of the Waikato River); Manukau Harbour to Paihia (probably by way of Wairoa River).

(3) 1838. (James Stack only.) From Paihia to Hicks Bay by schooner, thence overland to Poverty Bay. The return journey to Paihia may have been made by a different route.

(4) 1839. From Paihia to Tauranga (Te Papa).

(5) 1842. From Tauranga to Poverty Bay, by schooner; from Poverty Bay to East Cape (Waiapu), overland.

(6) 1842-3. (James Stack only.) From Waiapu (with Selwyn and Martin) overland to Bay of Plenty in the neighbourhood of Opotiki; thence to Tauranga; and back to Waiapu.

(7) 1844. From Waiapu along the coast to Waipiro; then fourteen miles in a whaleboat; and again by land to Tolaga Bay; and on to Turanga (Gisborne). Back to Waiapu by coast tracks.

(8) 1846. From Waiapu to Kawakawa (Te Araroa) by native tracks, including that through the forest on East Cape promontory. Back to Waiapu.

(9) 1846. From Waiapu to Auckland, by cutter.

(10) 1848. From Auckland to Sydney in a brigantine.

(11) 1848. From Sydney to London.

(12) 1852. From London to Port Chalmers, thence to Wellington.

(13) 1852. From Wellington (on horseback) to Porirua Harbour, Paekakariki hills, Otaki beach, to visit Tamihana at Otaki. Back to Wellington.

(14) 1853. From Wellington to Auckland by troopship.

(15) 1854. From Auckland to Waikato Heads (on horseback), via Runciman's Bush and Waiuku.

(16) 1854. Transfer of mission station from Waikato Heads to Kohanga, ten miles up river.

(17) 1854-8. Various expeditions up the river to Taupiri (Ashwell's station), and up the Waipa and Horotiu Rivers.

Continued on back "end-paper."

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JOURNEYS OF JAMES WEST STACK

(18) 1857. To Sydney, to visit relatives, and return.

(19) 1858. From Kohanga to Auckland (on horseback), and return via Rangiriri.

(20) 1859. From Kohanga to Auckland by land; thence, via Manukau Harbour, in "a miserable screw-steamer" to New Plymouth, Nelson, Wellington. To Port Cooper (Lyttelton) in an emigrant ship. Over the Port Hills to Christchurch

(21) 1859. From Christchurch to Port Cooper, Port Levy, Pigeon Bay, Wainui (Akaroa Harbour), Onuku, Wairewa (Little River), Rapaki, and back to Christchurch.

(22) 1859. From Christchurch to Kaiapoi and back.

(23) 1859. From Christchurch (with Bishop Harper, on horseback) to Rakaia, Rangitata, Mt. Peel, Orari, Horowhenua, Timaru, Waimate, Waitaki River. Return to Christchurch.

(24) 1860. From Port Cooper to Dunedin (with Bishop Harper) by sea. To Waihola Park, Tokomairiro (Milton), Molyneux River, Mataura Falls, Invercargill, New River, Jacob's River (Riverton), thence a few miles inland. Return by same route to Dunedin. By small steamer to Waikouaiti, thence by boat to Port Cooper, the Bishop riding overland.

(25) 1860. Kaiapoi to Little River, and over the hills to Port Levy. (This journey, and Nos. 21 and 22 are of course typical of many such.)

(26) 1860-1. From Port Cooper to Wellington, across to Nelson and New Plymouth. To Waitara and back by small store steamer. To Auckland (presumably via North Cape) on troopship Robert Loxvc.

(27) 1861. From Auckland (with Mrs. Stack and Mr. and Mrs. John Gorst) to Manukau; by boat to Waikato portage; canoe to Kohanga. Return to Auckland.

(28) 1861. From Auckland (with Mrs. Stack) in coastal steamer to New Plymouth, Nelson, Wellington. On horseback to Tamihana's sheep station opposite Kapiti Island. To Rangitikei (Sir William Fox). Back to Otaki to visit Hadfield; to Wellington; to Port Cooper and Christchurch.

(29) 1861. From Christchurch (with Mrs. Stack), by buggy, to Tuahiwi.

(30) 1861-2. With Mrs. Stack from Tuahiwi to Christchurch, and (presumably by sea) to Dunedin. To Waitahuna, via Tokomairiro, by coach. Back to Dunedin. To Otago Heads, Timaru, Akaroa, Wainui, Pigeon Bay (on ponies), Port Cooper (in open boat), over Port Hills, Christchurch, and back to Tuahiwi.

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EARLY MAORILAND ADVENTURES of J. W. STACK

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PRINTED IN NEW ZEALAND

FIRST PUBLISHED 1935

All Rights Reserved

COULLS SOMERVILLE WILKIE LIMITED

PRINTERS

DUNDEDIN, NEW ZEALAND

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Foreword

WHEN I first came to know Canon Stack in 1890, he was Vicar of Fendalton, and Chaplain to the Maoris in the Diocese of Christchurch. To the Maoris of those days he was a true Father in God; they loved and trusted him, and he was worthy of their confidence. His knowledge of native affairs, and his conspicuous ability, brought him into close contact with the leading men of both races. Of these he had much to tell, and few men could tell it better.

We feared that, after his death in 1919, his memorials would be lost to us. It is therefore an unexpected pleasure to learn that records of his life in New Zealand, written by his own hands, will be published in commemoration of the centenary of his birth.

Many old friends of Canon Stack will read these pages with eager pleasure; everyone of us interested in the history of New Zealand will give them careful study; and, as I hope, the Maoris of to-day will learn from them what manner of men their fathers were, whom Canon Stack held in so great affection and esteem.

CHURCHILL JULIUS
Archbishop.
Cashmere Hills
Christchurch
August 3, 1934

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Preface

IT may be of interest briefly to relate the circumstances which led to the publication of this book. During the Christmas season of 1933 Mrs. Frank Coxon, a daughter of Canon J. W. Stack, residing in Sydney, read in First New Zealand Christmases an announcement inviting correspondence from possessors of manuscripts of pioneer or missionary interest. She thereupon communicated the interesting news of the existence of unpublished MSS. relating the story of her father's early life in New Zealand nearly a century ago. Mrs. Coxon kindly sent this material across the Tasman Sea for perusal. It proved to consist of a number of MS. books, entirely in the autograph of the early missionary himself, written about the year 1916, when he was over eighty years of age. They contained a series of vivid word pictures of his life and adventure in those days of long ago, as a boy in the 'forties, and a young man in the 'fifties and 'sixties. Another daughter of Canon Stack, Mrs. W. A. Scaife, of Pembroke, Lake Wanaka, sent us several additional volumes, including Mrs. Stack's Journal of the late 'fifties and early 'sixties. Later, on the eve of the publication of this volume, still further interesting manuscript material has been received from Miss Dorathea Stack, London.

In all, Canon Stack's material contains the story of his childhood in New Zealand; his youth in Sydney and London; and his work as catechist under Dr. Maunsell at Waikato Heads and later

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as missionary to the Canterbury Maoris. It required no great discernment to recognise the literary and historical value of these recollections, set down with such sincerity and charm. Mrs. Stack's Journals, equally interesting, and evincing literary skill, contain entertaining narratives of visits to the celebrated Pink and White Terraces; to Tauranga; to Poverty Bay, where she resided for some time with Bishop and Mrs. Williams a few months after his consecration; to Wellington, Nelson, Canterbury; and to Otago during the early days of the gold rush.

The wealth of material available raised the problem of what to include and what to omit. Several well-known authorities were kind enough to read the MSS., and their verdict in every case was most favourable. "I find every line interesting," wrote a leading journalist. The only reasonable solution appeared to be to present the whole material in two or three volumes rather than attempt an abridgement. This first volume, therefore, complete in itself, contains a brief memoir, followed by the first portion of Stack's own story. Possibly, before the publication of succeeding volumes, further material may be discovered. Any information relating to Stack or his work will be gratefully acknowledged by the editor, and letters or other material entrusted to him will be returned without delay.

It has to be remembered that Stack wrote his Recollections, not for publication, but for his own family. Bearing this in mind, it is surprising what slight revision was required. Only in a very few instances has the text been slightly altered, and then

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only when it was obvious that the author would have so acted had he been here to prepare it for the press.

The completed book owes a great deal to numerous friends whose disinterested and unselfish aid will always be cherished as one of the happiest memories pertaining to my task.

The missionary, though he had served for thirty years under Bishop Harper, was well known to his successor, and I wish first to express my indebtedness to His Grace Archbishop Churchill Julius for his kindness in acceding to the request of Canon Stack's family by contributing a Foreword.

Next I desire to thank Mrs. Frank Coxon, of Sydney, and Mrs. W. A. Scaife, of Lake Wanaka, for their unwearying patience and forbearance in supplying all the information in their power, and replying to my never-ending queries. Miss Dorathea M. L. Stack, of London, has also shown much kindness.

It has been my good fortune to enlist the interest and co-operation of several foremost authorities on the Maori, and the book is greatly enriched by their notes.

The Right Rev. Herbert W. Williams, M. A., third Bishop of that historic name, whose father and grandfather Stack refers to as amongst his dearest friends, and who is recognised as an authority on the East Coast Maori, has added to many previous kindnesses by reading the MS., and adding valuable comments, whilst travelling about during a visitation of his diocese.

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Mr. H. D. Skinner, M. A. (Cantab.), Hocken Lecturer in Ethnology in the University of Otago, read the MS. while on holiday, provided notes from his store of knowledge, directed me to valuable unpublished illustrative material in the Hocken Library, and also contributed the carefully considered estimate of the place Stack occupies to-day in the sphere of Maori ethnology. This special contribution will be found on p. 90 of the memoir.

Mr. Johannes C. Andersen, Librarian of the Turnbull Library, Wellington, and an author of distinction on subjects relating to the Maori, has freely given of his time in reading the MS. and supplying footnotes, whilst he has also lent for reproduction some pictures from the celebrated institution of which he is the custodian.

Mr. Horace Fildes, Wellington, appears to have access to an inexhaustible store of knowledge of people and places connected with early New Zealand, and has been most generous in placing this at my disposal, as notes scattered through the book will testify. I am also indebted to him for suggestions as to illustrations.

Diligent enquiry failed to find many written communications from Stack to his friends. Fortunately, however, a sheaf of very interesting letters, written by the missionary to his friend Sir Julius von Haast, and covering a lengthy period, has been made available, and this correspondence has greatly enriched the memoir. For bringing these letters to my notice, and for permission to use them, I am indebted to Sir Julius's son, Mr. H. F. von Haast, M. A., LL.B., of Wellington.

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Mr. J. T. Paul, of the Otago Daily Times, was one of the first to recognise the value of the Stack MSS. and to offer his aid; and his co-operation and suggestions did much to encourage me. Mr. A. H. Carrington, late of the Christchurch Press, who had been specially interested in Stack, not only generously handed to me some material he had already collected, but set enquiries afoot resulting in further useful discoveries. Mr. W. F. Alexander and Mr. John Ash, of the Evening Star, Dunedin, Mr. James Hutchison of the Otago Daily Times, and Mr. Alan Mulgan, of the Auckland Star are others in the profession to whom I wish to express my indebtedness.

The proprietors of the Christchurch Press kindly gave me permission to use an article contributed to that journal a number of years ago, and which appears in this book as Chapter XVI, My First School, 1846. The proprietors of the Akaroa Mail permitted me to quote from Stack's pamphlet Through Canterbury and Otago with Bishop Harper in 1859-60.

Rev. A. C. Lawry, son and grandson of distinguished missionaries, and whose grandfather, Rev. Walter Lawry, was a contemporary of James Stack, read the MSS., which he describes as "so artless, so guileless, so true," and has supplied useful information.

A friend, Mr. A. H. Robinson, was good enough, during a holiday spent at the East Coast, to make some enquiries in the neighbourhood of James Stack's old mission stations. As a result he made a very interesting contact with two grandsons

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of Mokena Kohere, the chief under whose protection Stack used to leave his wife and children when absent from home. To these gentlemen, Mr. Rewiti T. Kohere and Rev. Poihipi Kohere, Rangitukia, who supplied information of historical interest, and to Mr. Robinson, who secured it, my thanks are due for a unique service.

In my quest for information on various points that have arisen I have met with unfailing kindness, not only from friends, but from those to whom I was a perfect stranger. In setting out to acknowledge my indebtedness to so many who have extended various courtesies, some are likely to be inadvertently omitted, and I ask their forgiveness. I desire to thank Mrs. Dewes (granddaughter of Archdeacon Kissling); Mrs. George Walker (daughter of Rev. James Hamlin); Miss A. H. Maxwell (niece of Archdeacon Brown); Miss Laura Harper (great-granddaughter of Rev. Richard Taylor); Mrs. K. E. Ross (step-daughter of Alfred Stack); Miss A. F. Rattray (granddaughter of Rev. W. Aylmer); Dr. J. R. Elder, who has helped and inspired me in more ways than he, perhaps, is aware of; Rev. G. W. Digby Wilson (grandson of Rev. J. A. Wilson); Dr. W. R. B. Oliver, Director Dominion Museum; Mr. Herbert Maunsell (son of Archdeacon Maunsell); Mr. H. Heber Cholmondeley; Mr. James Cowan; Rev. M. A. Rugby Pratt, F. R. Hist. S.; Mr. W. Paterson (Secretary Otago Early Settlers' Association); Mr. John Barr, Chief Librarian, Auckland; Mr. Victor F. Fisher; Ven. Archdeacon L. G. Whitehead; Mr. A. W. Traill (son-in-law of Rev.

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J. F. H. Wohlers); Mr. J. H. Blackwell; Mr. Herbert Chapman; Mr. Te Aritaua Pitama; Mr. W. J. Cotterill (son of Archdeacon Cotterill); Mr. H. A. Innes-Jones; Mr. T. H. Beckett; Miss C. Woodward (Portsmouth); Mr. C. J. Ronaldson (son of Rev. William Ronaldson); Mrs. Shelton, Tolaga Bay; Rev. H. I. Hopkins, Chatham Islands.

It would be ungrateful to fail to acknowledge help received from the Hocken Library, Dunedin, and the courtesies extended by the librarian, Mrs. Macdonald. It is a pleasure to be able to state that at least a portion of the Stack MSS. are to be housed in this famous depository of literary treasure.

In quest of information my steps have often led me to the McNab collection of New Zealand literature housed in the Dunedin Public Library; and I desire to thank Mr. A. G. W. Dunningham (the chief librarian) and the Misses Bryant and Elliot of his staff, who always seem to take pleasure in making smooth the path of the enquirer.

My thanks to Messrs. Coulls Somerville Wilkie Ltd., printers, between whom and myself there have been friendly relations over a longer period of years than I care to think of. Only those who have had anything to do with the making of a book know how dependent upon the printers are all concerned, and what frequent conferences are necessary at every stage as the work develops. More than a passing word of thanks, therefore, is due to Mr. J. L. Gregory, of the letterpress printing department, whose knowledge and experience, placed unstintingly at the editor's disposal, have been invaluable. To all who have co-operated

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in the production of the book, from the setting of the first line of type to the finishing touch of the binding under Mr. J. Holgate, I am beholden.

Not least I desire to acknowledge the invaluable aid given by my nephew and partner and pal, Mr. A. W. Reed, Wellington, who, amongst numerous other services, is responsible for the index, the maps which appear on the "end-papers" and elsewhere, and the pen-and-ink sketches from Canon Stack's drawings.

It remains to mention one--and my last thought shall dwell upon her--without whose constant encouragement and inspiration this task, into whatever pleasant paths it may have led me, would never have been accomplished--my wife, Isabel.

A. H. R.

155 Glen Avenue, Dunedin, N. Z.
11th March, 1935

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CONTENTS

FOREWORD BY ARCHBISHOP CHURCHILL JULIUS . . . 7

PREFACE . . . . . . . 9

JAMES WEST STACK, MEMOIR . . . . . . . 23

EARLY MAORILAND ADVENTURES OF JAMES WEST STACK

I--Puriri and Mangapouri . . . . . . . 101

II--Mangapouri . . . . . . . 108

III-- Te Papa . . . . . . . 117

IV-- Te Papa (Continued) . . . . . . . 128

V--Poverty Bay . . . . . . . 141

VI--East Cape . . . . . . . 150

VII-- East Cape (Continued) . . . . . . . 160

VIII-- East Cape (Continued) . . . . . . . 173

IX--A Whaling Station . . . . . . . 191

X--Captain Cook's Well . . . . . . . 201

XI--Journey to East Cape . . . . . . . 206

XII-- East Cape . . . . . . . 211

XIII-- East Cape (Continued) . . . . . . . 216

XIV-- Journey to Kawakawa . . . . . . . 221

XV--East Cape and Voyage to Auckland . . . . . . . 231

XVI--St. John's College, Auckland . . . . . . . 236

XVII--Sydney . . . . . . . 251

APPENDICES

I--Sir Julius von Haast . . . . . . . 268
-----A biographical note by H. F. von Haast

II--The Maori and His Greenstone . . . . . . . 270
-----Notes on Maori Manufacture of Greenstone by J. W. Stack

INDEX . . . . . . . 275

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LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

James West Stack - - - - Frontispiece

James Stack - - - - Facing 32

Mrs. James Stack - - - - Facing 33

A Maketu Chief - - - Facing 48
-----From a sketch by J. W. Stack.

Maori Carving - - - Facing 48
-----A section of Raharuhi's house now in the Dominion Museum, Wellington.

Mrs. J. W. Stack - - - Facing 49

The House and School at Tuahiwi - - - 55
-----Drawn by A. W. Reed from a sketch by J. W. Stack.

Canon and Mrs. J. W. Stack - - - Facing 80

Sir Julius von Haast - - - Facing 81

A Page from J. W. Stack's MS. Recollections - - - Facing 112

A Maori Pa - - - - Facing 113
-----From a sketch by J. W. Stack.

"The first thing I remember" - - - 116
-----Drawn by Miss Doreen Price.

The War Dance - - - Facing 128
-----From The Story of New Zealand, by Arthur S. Thomson, M. D.

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Dr. Ernest Dieffenbach on Tour - - - Facing 129
-----From Travels in New Zealand, Vol. II, (London, 1843).

Ngatoro, on the Summit of Tongariro, claiming his lands - - - 140
-----Drawn by Miss Doreen Price.

The Chief Mokena Kohere - - - Facing 160
-----By courtesy of the Alexander Turnbull Library, Wellington.

Captain Cook's Landing Place, Tolaga Bay - - - Facing 161

Old St. Thomas's, Tamaki, Auckland - - - Facing 256
-----From a photograph by J. D. Richardson.

An Early View of Auckland - - - Facing 256
-----From New Zealand, Britain of the South, by Charles Hursthouse (London, 1857).

A Distant View of Sydney - - - Facing 257
-----From The Life of Rev. Samuel Marsden, by Rev. J. B. Marsden, M. A. (London, 1858).

MAPS

The Recorded Journeys of James West Stack - - - End-papers
-----Drawn by A. W. Reed.

Portion of North Island of New Zealand - - - Facing 100
-----Drawn by A. W. Reed.

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JAMES WEST STACK

Born at Puriri, Thames, New Zealand, 27th March, 1835. Died at Worthing, Sussex, England, 13th October, 1919.

A MEMOIR

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MAORI ALPHABET AND PRONUNCIATION

The following simple rules were given by Canon Stack to Mr. H. F. von Haast.

A Pronounced as in father

E Pronounced as in acorn

I Pronounced as in sleep

H Pronounced as har

K Pronounced as kar

M Pronounced as mar

N Pronounced as nar

O Pronounced as oh

P Pronounced as par

R Pronounced as rar

T Pronounced as tar

U Pronounced as oo in two

W Pronounced as war in warren

NGA Pronounced as ngah

(When pronouncing Maori words every vowel must be distinctly sounded.)

KEY TO CONTRIBUTORS OF FOOTNOTES

J. C. A. --Mr. Johannes C. Andersen
H. F. --Mr. Horace Fildes
V. F. F. --Mr. V. F. Fisher
A. C. L. --Rev. Albert C. Lawry
J. T. P. --Mr. J. T. Paul
A. W. R. --Mr. A. W. Reed
H. D. S. --Mr. H. D. Skinner, M.A.
H. W. --Bishop Herbert Williams, M.A.

Other notes not supplied by the editor are accredited where they appear.