1814-1853 - The Missionary Register [Sections relating to New Zealand.] - 1848 - New Zealand, p 105-108

Te Heuheu is a fine old man: he stands nearly seven feet high, and is very corpulent. His hair is silvery white, and his people compare it to the snowy head of the sacred Tongariro; there being no object, except this tapu mountain, of equal sanctity to permit of its being mentioned in connection with the head of their Chief. * * * Notwithstanding the strict adherence of Te Heuheu to these absurd and heathen customs, 1 I received every hospitality and protection from his hands; and the scrupulous integrity of this powerful Chief shewed itself in an amusing instance while I was at Te Rapa. On returning one evening with Newman 2 to the kainga [place of abode] there was an unusual commotion among the Natives; and, on inquiry, we found that an old woman had informed the Chief that some of the young folks had been eating the sugar belonging to the pakeha, I having left a small canister at Newman's hut, containing about half a pound. In order to settle this important question, Te Heuheu summoned every boy and girl of Te Rapa within the court-yard of his dwelling; and, not being able to discover the supposed thief, he beat them all round in succession. * * * Te Heuheu

is generous and hospitable: whatever he gives is freely bestowed; and he does not, like many of the Chiefs, ask for tobacco or payment in return--he prides himself upon his rank and dignity, and is glad of an opportunity to display his hospitality to strangers. The greenstone ornaments belonging to the old Chief are remarkably fine: his meri poonamu [the native instrument of war, in shape like a narrow battledore] is one of the largest I have seen, and is formed of semi-pellucid jade.

I cannot but admire the old man: he has all the native nobleness of a Chief with the kindness of more civilized life. He apologized for not having received us with more attention, and I do think he is sincere in his regard for Europeans.

On the 7th of May 1846, in the grey of the morning, a very sudden and extraordinary event occurred at Taupo. An avalanche of mud descended from a mountain at the back of Te Rapa, and overwhelmed Te Heuheu, his six wives with their children, his eldest son, Tamati Waka, and all those who were in the Pa, in all 54, two only making their escape. The Pa is buried under ten feet of mud. I am well acquainted with the locality, and think that the cause of the calamity was, in the first place, the late excessive rains; and, in the next, the hot springs on the side of the mountain. Te Heuheu's Pa lay in a valley having a mountain on either side, the lake in front, and the mountain whence the destruction came in the rear. From the lake there is a gradual ascent to it of nearly two miles. The side of the mountain is filled with boiling springs, perhaps some hundreds in number, at an elevation of 400 feet, or thereabouts, above the lake. Most of these, when I saw them, were mere vents for heated air. The mountain itself appeared to be chiefly composed of pipe clay, interspersed with veins of red ochre; and my idea is, that the many subterraneous caverns, formed by the continual throwing out of the clay, were filled by the recent rains, and that then the water, being heated, of course expanded, and so forced itself into all the pores of the mountain, thus giving the surrounding soil a degree of fluidity which occasioned the catastrophe. In addition, a small lake on the summit of the mountain may have added its surplus waters to increase the ruin, it being partially drained. When the side gave way the deluge was of thick mud and large masses of stone; sufficiently strong, after three days, to allow 100 men to commence exhuming the bodies of the unfortunate tribe. I learn that about ten years ago a large volume of water flowed from the same quarter, from which Te Heuheu and his tribe had a very narrow escape in their canoes.

June 11, 1846--This morning a Mr. Yates arrived from Taupo, and states that Te Heuheu was warned of the danger; but, instead of attempting to escape, he stood at the door of his house and prayed to the Taniwa (a sea-god or monster) by whom the evil was thought to be occasioned, and while so doing he was overwhelmed. What a lesson is this to nominal Christians! A Heathen Chief placing more trust in the efficacy of prayer than in his own power of escape! He is said daily to have offered food to the Taniwa, but his having omitted to do so for the two previous days accounted for the wrath of the god. The Natives say, that afterward the Taniwa fled across the lake to Motutere, and thence to Waikato, whence he will go to the sea and perish, and they shall be no more troubled with him. They assert that they saw the splash of his tail as he went! The body of Te Heuheu has been recovered; and also his much-praised and admired meri, which is now enclosed in a small triangular box, and placed on the wata (a stage on which food is kept) by his side. Mr. Yates says that nothing can exceed the desolation of the place: the once-smiling valley is now a plain of mud and stones. The site of the Pa is now made tapu, so much so that Mr. Yates was not permitted to approach it; and the lake itself is also made sacred, so that none can fish in it or even drink of its waters.

Close to the water's edge there is a carved image of a man, as large as life, to commemorate Turoa's 3 body resting here on its way to be buried at Pipiriki: and wherever the corpse rested there is a similar image. I could not help calling to mind the many monuments which Edward erected to commemorate the resting-places of his beloved Queen Eleanor, and thinking how much all barbarous nations resemble one another in their customs.

This morning I had Service, and preached to a very attentive Congregation. I was much pleased with the Church they have erected here: it measures about 40 feet by 25, and is very neatly finished. The site is a beautiful one, selected by me.

June 19, 1846--We left Pipiriki after Morning Service, and soon entered the Manganui a te ao, which is one continuation of rapids. About half-past three we reached Te Arero, where there is a very neat Church, in which I held Service: but few were present. This Pa is the grand stronghold of Heathenism in this part, and is almost entirely inhabited by the worst characters of the Patu-toko-toko tribe. They are notorious thieves and fighters, and still observe the native religion. There were a few good Natives living among them; but, as they could not dwell in peace in the midst of a place openly given up to every sin, they left, and formed another little kainga, at Otaki, a neighbouring village. They are now here, and have just finished a long talk about their troubles.

I walked out; but, oh! what a wretched spot is a heathen Pa! filth in every direction, wretchedness in every form! Women all but naked, with their heads and bodies smeared with oil and ochre, shrieking or crying, and dirty children running about in a state of nudity, all combine to form as wretched a whole as can well be imagined. I took the new census of the place, and found that since I last took it thirty-eight had left because of the wickedness of the inhabitants. The Teacher is very anxious also to abandon the place; but I will not consent to his doing so.

About twenty have arrived from Hikurangi, and a similar number from Pukehika and Patiarero, for this journey.

June 21: Lord's Day--I had a full Congregation this morning.

After Evening Service, Pakoro, the principal Chief, told me he wanted the young men who had fallen into sin to accompany us, in order to build him houses by the way, and to wait upon him. I told him that I should not consent to their going. He said that he should. I replied, that if they went I should return home, which immediately made him accede to my wishes.

While I was getting my tea I heard the Natives talking about setting off tomorrow, before sunrise. One proposed to have the potatoes scraped and washed this evening, ready to be cooked the first thing in the morning. "No," said another, "that wo'nt do; for although our Sabbath is finished here it has only just commenced in England, so it would still be breaking the Lord's Day." A Native of Pipiriki told me of a quarrel he had had with his wife, who would have her own way. He said he told her to remember that Adam was made first, and not Eve; and that the woman was not the head, but the man; wherefore it was her place to listen to him.

June 22--I heard Hori Patene, the principal Chief of Pipiriki, holding a very animated conversation with Pakoro, who, it appears, had determined upon taking with him all the young men who had fallen into sin. He asked Hori what it signified to him who went with him, and whether he could not do as he pleased. "Yes," said Hori, "you can, and so can we: it is contrary to our duty,

as believers, to keep company with the wicked; and if you are determined they shall go"--which it appears he was, as he had privately sent them on before to Tuware--"we shall return back with our Minister, who has said he will not have them in his company." Pakoro was unwillingly obliged to promise that they should return from Tuware. Thus is this Chief, who is the principal man in Wanganui, and the most opposed of all to the Gospel, compelled to yield obedience to those who believe in it.

After Service we left. For the first eight miles the road was exceedingly precipitous, and constant rain had made it so slippery that I found the ascents and descents equally fatiguing. One place was very dangerous: the mountain above had recently slipped down, leaving an almost perpendicular face of rock, with a little earth resting in places. It was on this we had to step, and then one of the climbing shrubs formed a rope by which to ascend a perpendicular face of rock nearly thirty feet high.

As we approached Tuware, the sight was very interesting. Our party now amounted to 100 or more, and as all walked in single file we formed a long line. When we approached the kainga all the females came out, and, in a loud voice, bade us welcome. Their hair wag dressed with white feathers, and they had fillets of a creeping Lycopodium tastefully arranged on their foreheads-- a sign of mourning. Some waved their mats, others green boughs, as we approached, bidding us welcome. When we entered the Pa, our party formed a group, the foremost sitting on the ground and covering their faces with their garments, while the women of the place, who acted as chief mourners, arranged themselves opposite, with the men behind them. One, advancing before the rest-- two others remaining a little behind, bowed almost to the ground, with their arms crossed on their breasts, and gradually raising themselves up, with their arms slowly extended and contracted-- kept time with a very solemn and slow wail, alternately raising and lowering the voice in such an affecting way that I could hardly help shedding tears also. Hoko, the Chief of this place, is a relative of Te Heuheu, and so is Pakoro. This custom always takes place when a relative of a great Chief who is dead enters a strange place.

About nine o'clock my Wanganui Natives made their appearance, in a long line. They fired their guns as they advanced, and were received by the Natives of Motuapuhi with firing of guns, waving of garments, and loud shouts of welcome. As soon as my party entered the Pa, for which purpose a portion of the fence was pulled up, they all sat down, and the Chief of the Pa, with a number of women on either side, and the rest in the rear, commenced the tangi (cry). It was for Turoa as well as for Te Heuheu, and was most affecting. The principal Chief vibrated his arm, and made the most mournful sounds of woe, in which he was ably accompanied by the women, who appeared bowed down with excess of grief, wringing their hands, stretching their arms slowly out and drawing them in, and crossing them over their breasts, the tears flowing in continued streams from their eyes. When this was finished, speeches were made on both sides, containing frequent allusions to my regard to Te Heuheu in thus visiting them at this season.

After the speeches, about forty men made their appearance, bearing an immense crate of food. It was lined with matting, and was crowned with four pigs, roasted whole. Four of these huge receptacles of food were brought in succession, with much noise and merriment, and afterward the whole population came, each bearing a basket of cooked food, which were successively arranged, the Chief again bidding the party welcome, and, quite in the European style, expressing his sorrow that he had nothing to feed such distinguished guests with.

At this time I left for Tokanu, not wishing to lose a day, although the sight was very interesting. I took William, my head Teacher, and Aperaniko with me. I dare say it was with much unwillingness that they left such good cheer; but my object was to make haste home.