1867 - von Hochstetter, Ferdinand. New Zealand - CHAPTER XIX: The East Coast from Maketu to Tauranga, and Return to Auckland

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CHAPTER XIX.

The East Coast from Maketu to Tauranga, and Return to Auckland.

On the 6. May we left the lake district and turned towards Maketu, a noted Pah and a Mission station on the Bay of Plenty, East Coast. From the lakes Rotoiti and Rotorua, which lie 1040 feet above the level of the sea, the country gently slopes towards the coast, consisting of trachytic tuff and pumicestone. To the Northwest the Otanewainuku, an old trachytic cone, is visible, commanding the table-land of the Patetere forest, towards Southeast the Putauaki (Mt. Edgumbe) rising from a low pumicestone plain, which forms the continuation of the Kaingaroa plain. The higher portions of the country are intersected by numerous water-courses and deep valleys, thus presenting a rolling, hilly surface, while towards the coast marshy flats extend. The woods have mostly disappeared. The road going up-hill and down-hill, lies chiefly across open fern-land, and in rainy weather is very slippery. The distance from the Pah Morea, situated upon the isthmus between the Rotorua and Rotoiti, to Maketu I estimate at 25 miles. As the whole distance can be travelled on horseback, this is the easiest and shortest route for visiting the lake district from Auckland. From Auckland

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to the harbour of Tauranga on the East Coast, we have one or two days sailing; thence along the sea-beach to Maketu one day, and another day to lake Rotoiti. The only difficulty or inconvenience upon this route is a deep and broad swamp, which has to be passed close by Maketu. A second road leads from Tauranga across the Otawa wood-ridge direct to lake Rotorua, likewise two days' journeys; but the road is much more difficult; swamps and several creeks (Te Papapa, Mangakopekopeko, Terarenga, Mangarewa and Mangapore) are to be passed, and the traveller has to plod for a whole day in the depth of the bush. By this route he misses the picturesque lake Rotoiti. I, therefore, recommend to future travellers the Maketu-route, although there is but little to be seen along the road.

A Maori monument.

The carved Maori-figures, which are met with on the road, are the memorials of chiefs, who, while journeying to the restorative

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baths of Rotorua, succumbed to their ills on the road. Some of the figures are decked out with pieces of clothing or kerchiefs; and the most remarkable feature in them is the close imitation of the tattooing of the deceased, by which the Maoris are able to recognise for whom the monument has been erected. Certain lines are peculiar to the tribe, others to the family, and again others to the individual. A close imitation of the tattooing of the face, therefore, is to the Maori the same as to us a photographic likeness; it does not require any inscription of name. Not having set out from Rotoiti before noon, we were obliged to camp on the road. The only camping-ground, supplied with water and fuel, is just half-way, and is called Te rewarewa. Here we found a large party of Maoris encamped with their wives and children, who were likewise on a journey to Maketu.

The 7. May was an unpleasant, rainy day, and it was only with difficulty that we advanced upon the slippery, muddy road. A short distance from Maketu we were moreover obliged to wade knee-deep -- in some places even up to the waist -- through the Kawa-swamp, nearly half a mile wide. The plight, in which we arrived, may, therefore, be easily imagined. A messenger on horseback came to meet us, tendering us in the Rev. Mr. Chapman's name a cordial invitation to the Mission station. I remonstrated that it was impossible for us to enter a European house in the plight, in which we had come out of the mire and swamp; but the messenger brought word back, that we should come just as we were, and I consequently proceeded with my whole party numbering twenty-three persons. Rev. Mr. Chapman received me at his garden-gate with a most hearty welcome; the natives shouted their friendly "haeremai," and ere long we were all under comfortable shelter beneath the missionary's hospitable roof.

The 8. May, a Sunday, was to all of us a welcome day of rest. The name of the Mission station is Whare-Kahu, house of the falcon, or as we should call it, "the eagle's eyrie." Mr. Chapman, is one of the oldest and most deserving missionaries of the English Episcopal church, who has passed through the times of

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cannibalism and the reign of terror of the "New Zealand Napoleon" Hongi; and Maketu is the very place famous for native wars of the most cruel and barbarous kind. There is a stone in the yard of the Roman Catholic church, on which is inscribed the date at which hostilities ceased, viz. 16th September 1845. With what soothing contemplations such men can look back to their noble and eventful life, on comparing the Past and the Present!

The Pah of Maketu is situated upon an eminence on the Southeast-side of the Kaituna river, close by its mouth. The dwelling houses and granaries (Pataka) are carved in the most elaborate and grotesque manner. The estuary of the river extending to a great distance inside of the bar is accessible only for the smallest coasting vessels. A stone-block on the beach is designated by the natives as the anchor of the canoe Arawa, in which, as the story goes, their ancestors had immigrated. Kumaras, maize, potatoes, taro and tobacco thrive splendidly in the fertile alluvial soil of the country and peaches are very plentiful. In the Pah I had the pleasure of meeting Hori te Haupapa, the celebrated chief from Rotorua. He told me, that in Auckland he had been on board the Novara, and that there the colossal dimensions of his body had been measured. He was of opinion, that, if the people in Europe were to judge by that measure, they would surely take all the Maoris to be giants. The headland of Maketu consists of alternating layers of trachytic tuff, sandstone and pumicestone. From the heights near the Pah towards N.E., the island Whakari (White Island), a distance of about 35 seamiles, can be distinctly seen, with its crater continually puffing powerful clouds of white steam. The island rises 863 feet above the sea. Towards North, at a distance of 6 miles from the coast, is the island Motiti, a low island, -- its highest point being only 190 feet high, -- which, however, is said to be very fertile and therefore inhabited.

On the 9. May we set out towards Tauranga. After several stormy and rainy days this was again the first pleasant day. At sunrise the thermometer stood at the freezing-point, and the puddles of rainwater in front of the house were frozen; but the sun soon

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shone warm, and we had one of the most delightful autumnal days I ever witnessed in New Zealand. Haupapa himself ferried me in his canoe across the Kaituna river, and finally carried me upon his gigantic shoulders over the muddy banks to dry ground. We parted with the kindest assurances of friendship and esteem.

The distance from Maketu to Tauranga is sixteen miles, which at a good pace may be travelled in six hours; to us, however, it appeared twice the distance, the road leading in uninterrupted monotony along the sea-beach; to the right the blue sea, and the booming surf, which wets the foot of the traveller; and to the left sand hills and swamps. The isolated cone at the entrance of Tauranga Harbour, the Maunganui (860 feet high), is continually in view, and on nearer approaching, seems more and more to recede. To judge from the character of the shores between Maketu and Tauranga one would never have thought of calling the extensive bay between the East Cape and the Mercury Islands "Bay of Plenty;" yet the shores Southeast of Maketu and North of Tauranga seem to correspond better with that name given by Captain Cook. As we were about to camp for dinner, we were cautioned by the natives against a small, black spider with a red stripe on its back, which they call Katipo (or Katepo). The spider is said to exist only hero and about Otaki on Cook's Strait on the grass growing upon the sand-hills, and its bite to be so poisonous, that with sickly persons it has even caused speedy death. Farther in the interior, they say, it is nowhere met with. This is the only poisonous vermin in New-Zealand. But in spite of a long and careful search we could not find even a single specimen. Ralph 1 describes it as a real spider, of a very different appearance at different periods of its age; when full-grown it is black, with an orange-red stripe on its back. Ralph mentions also, that he had put the spider together with a mouse, and that the latter died after 18 hours in consequence of the spider-bite. We were therefore careful to move our camp farther inland, where a swamp furnished us the necessary water for making tea. It was not until evening that we reached Tauranga Harbour. From

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the Mission station Te Papa we were still separated by a narrow branch of the sea We had first to signal our arrival by means of a kindled fire, calling a boat over from the other side to take us across. Our signal was responded to; the boat came, and on the opposite shore our worthy countryman, the Rev. Mr. Voelkner came to meet us with open arms. 2

May 10. -- Mr. Voelkner and his amiable wife had been expecting us for some days, and pressed by our kind host and hostess, we remained two days at Tauranga, during which we experienced the greatest kindness and hospitality. Te Papa (i.e. the plain), the residence of the Archdeacon Brown, who during our visit was absent, is a Mission station of the Anglican High-Church, situated upon an extremely fertile peninsula on the southeastern branch of the Tauranga Harbour; the buildings are concealed between beautiful fruit-trees and locust-trees. Mr. Voelkner conducted a school for boys and girls, which he had founded five years ago, raising it in very short time to a most flourishing condition. The school-children had collected for me, at his request, a great number of pretty sea-shells. Among them Argonauta tuberculosa, Solemya australis, Bulla Zelandica and Trochus tigris. The schooner Maiperi bound for Auckland, being then at anchor in the harbour, and happening to be just ready to set sail, I had an excellent opportunity to forward my collections at once.

The Tauranga Harbour is the only harbour on the East-coast between Mercury Bay and Port Nicholson, which is accessible to larger vessels, and offers shelter against every wind. The entrance is a narrow, serpentine channel, but perfectly safe, the isolated, truncated cone of the Maunganui on the East-side, which rises to a height of 860 feet above the level of the sea, serving as an excellent land-mark. The form of the mountain resembles very much a volcano, but a closer examination shows, that the hill is a remnant part of the volcanic table-land, consisting of horizontal

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beds of lava and tuff. Farther out in the sea, East of the Maunganui, there is a small rocky island, Motu-Otau, upon which the singular lizard, Hatteria punctata Gray, Ruatara of the natives, 18 inches in length, is said to exist, a specimen of which Dieffenbach has brought to London. The Tuhua island (Mayor island), 1100 feet high, 20 seamiles North of the entrance to the Tauranga Harbour, is an extinct volcano with a large crater open towards South-East. On the West-side huge blocks of the beautiful greenish-black obsidian (Tuhua of the natives) are found, to which the island owes its name, and of which a captain is said to have shipped a whole load to Auckland, mistaking it for coal.

Formerly Tauranga was one of the most densely populated parts on the East-coast. Dieffenbach in 1841 estimated the number of the inhabitants still at 3000; now it will be scarcely found to exceed 800 or 1000. Serious hostilities had broken out of late between the two tribes dwelling along the harbour, the Ngatihokos and the Ngaiterangis, and at the time of my visit they were at open war with each other. At the Mission station we could distinctly hear the fire of musketry from the neighbouring scene of war. The cause of the war were the claims of both tribes to the possession of a piece of land Southeast of Te Papa. Both parties endeavored to settle upon the contested ground, leaving their former villages and plantings. Fortified camps (Pah Wawai) were built; and in spite of the efforts made by the missionaries, the native assessor, and even the Maori King Potatau, to settle the difficulty by an equitable partition of the land in question, they took up arms. After a few of them had been killed on both sides, the parties grew more and more irreconciliable. Thus the conflict had lasted already for three whole years. The opportunity to witness the Maori war was too enticing; so we set out on the 11. May in company of Mr. Voelkner to visit the seat of war. A short passage across the Southeast branch of the harbour brought us to the spot. Red flags with the English inscription "war" were waving from the forts, as we arrived, and here and there shots were fired. I had my white pocket-handkerchief tied to a long pole and this im-

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promptu flag was borne in front by a Maori. We were soon observed. The Pah nearest to us hoisted instead of the red war-flag the white flag of truce with the inscription "Rongopai" (glad tidings) and the other Pahs soon followed its example. The firing ceased. An old chief, named Hou, came forth to meet us, and conducted us into the main-camp of the Ngaiterangis, to the Pah Tumatanui. Here I was presented to the commanding general of the fort, Rawiri, a man with a defiant, frowning air. He invited me to step into a very spacious hut, situated in the centre of the Pah, and surrounded with earthworks; and ordered his adjutant to call his men together. About forty warriors assembled gradually together, all robust young men in the best years; more than a hundred double-barrelled guns were leaning against the walls; and I soon found myself through my friend Voelkner placed in the wholly unexpected and to me rather strange situation of having to act the part of an apostle of peace before the assembled combatants. The causes of the conflict having been fully explained to me, I was to state my opinion on the subject. I declared, that, whereas both parties wore already abundantly blessed with the possession of the most fertile lands of the country, which they were not even able to cultivate to their full extent, a war about a scanty patch of land, for which formerly for years nobody had cared anything, was in my opinion utterly unworthy of the wonted bravery and magnanimity of the Maoris, and that I should be greatly rejoiced to be able to convey to the Governor at Auckland, whose guest I was, the glad tidings that they had made peace. One of the warriors then stepped forwards, and declared to me in a pathetic speech, that the question with them was not the possession of the land, but of their right, and that they would gladly make me a present of the whole contested land, if I could prevail upon their enemy to give their consent to it; that they would be proud to have me settled among them, or if I should not be able to remain myself, to send my friends there to settle. Thus I had actually a chance of becoming a chief in New Zealand. I had some trouble in preserving countenance at this offer, but promised to use every means

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to move also the opposite party in favour of peace. The negotiations, which had lasted for two hours, ended with a meal which Rawiri had ordered for us.

A fortified native camp near Tauranga.

A. Terrace for the commandant.
B. Cannon.
C. Flagstaff.
D. and E. Casemates.
F. Ramparts.
G. Trenches.
H. Double raw of palisades.
I.Passage.

Thence we proceeded to the enemy's camp, to the Ngatihokos, whom we found in their main-fort Tukiata. The annexed woodcut is intended to illustrate that Pah. Two brothers Manahira and Tariha Kiharoa were the chief-officers in command. Theirs was the weaker, but also the more obstinate party; they would not listen to any proposols of peace, but gave vent to their bitter hatred by the most violent abuse of their enemies. They told me, that they were expecting the Ngatipukengas, the former owners of the contested land, who were to decide the matter for them. My efforts closed with the Ngaiterangis charging me with a memorial to the Governor, in which they expressed their inclination to make peace, and requested the mediation of the Governor to that effect. 3

May 12. -- Kind Mrs. Voelkner had baked some fresh bread and prepared an excellent roast-pork for our benefit on the road; and thus most liberally provided with food, we again parted from a Mission house, the kind and hospitable inhabitants of which I shall never forget. We crossed the Waikareao Creek in a boat, and thence passed over a sandy plain through a deserted Pah in a north-

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westerly direction along the shores of the harbour, which presents the character of a shallow estuary with, many inlets and studded with numerous islands, separated from the sea only by a row of sandhills, and extends, at an average breadth of two to three miles, in a N.W. direction, as far as the Katikati river, a distance of 15 miles. After a short hour's walk we reached the Otumoetai Pah (others spell it Otumoiti), one of the principal settlements on Tauranga Harbour, at the same time the seat of a Roman Catholic mission. The church of the place is of a very neat construction; there are also some Europeans settled here. On the beach lay a number of beautiful war-canoes; and next to them a schooner, belonging to the Maoris, which they had bought for £500, leaving it afterwards to rot and decay. From Otumoetai we came over excellent, fertile alluvial plains to the Wairoa Bay. The Bay is very shallow, and the sandy rather than muddy ground so firm, that, although the tide had already half set in, we could without danger wade through to Peterehema (Bethlehem). From here we had to be ferried by means of canoes across a second, deeper branch, whereupon we found ourselves upon an abominable mud-bank, over which we were obliged to wade, the tide continually rising, for a whole mile sinking in more than knee-deep, until we came once more upon terra firma at a projecting sandy point. At 3 1/2 p.m. we reached the village Potuterangi, from which we were hailed by shouts of "haeremai," so cordial and general that we halted here for dinner. Proceeding two miles farther along the strand we arrived at the Te Puna Bay and at eventide we crossed over to a small settlement Ongarahu, where we pitched our tents. We met only about twelve inhabitants, who exhibited a truly unfeigned joy at seeing Pakehas, and provided for our comfort to the best of their knowledge and ability. I for my part was most heartily glad, to have done with the mud-plains and creeks of the Tauranga Harbour, and to be once more upon dry ground. How very different everything here will look in after-years, when a European City shall rise on the Tauranga Harbour, and the beautiful country round about be dotted with flourishing farms.

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May 13. -- Rose early and pursued our route in a westerly direction, our destination being the Waikato Valley and the Middle Waikato Basin. We had to cross the Whanga range, the northern continuation of which is the Cape Colville peninsula on the Eastside of the Hauraki-Gulf. From Tauranga, however, this range does not appear as a mountain-range, but the land rises gradually in a gently sloping, inclined plain to a wooded plateau, which towards the Waiho Valley breaks off abruptly; consequently it is only from the Waiho plains that the coast range appears as a steep and rugged mountain-range. It consists of trachytic rocks, and forms the northern continuation of the Patetere plateau. The road is a much frequented path for equestrians. For two hours we had to traverse woodless, fern-clad hills; then we came to a cool mountain-stream, the Waipapa, forming a few yards off the road a pretty cascade, called Taiharu, and about 30 feet high. Here the bush commences, at first interrupted by some intervening lawns, from which a charming view is had over the Bay of Plenty, from the Tuhua Island to the Whakari volcanoe; thence it grows denser and denser, until the traveller at last finds himself once more buried in the obscurity of a primitive New Zealand forest. Magnificent cobalt-blue mushrooms 2 1/2 inches high, and the extremely frequent occurrence of the remarkable "vegetating caterpillar" in those woods deserve special notice. The Parapara creek -- on the banks of which there are very pretty ferns (among them Lindsaea microphylla Presl) in luxuriant growth, -- is the last creek running towards the Tauranga side. The watershed to be crossed is about 1500 feet above the level of the sea. The road obstructed by the gnarled roots of the trees, and by deep mud-holes, was extremely difficult and tiresome, and towards evening we were obliged to encamp in the middle of the bush on the banks of a small creek running towards the Waiho side. Our camping-ground on the height of the Whanga-plateau was 1414 feet above the level of the sea. The bright glare of our blazing fire illuminated the gigantic trunks of majestic Rimu and Rata trees, the moonlight with magic splendour poured through their lofty crowns, and the blustering night wind moaned in the tree-tops. I do not-

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recollect a more romantic scene of a night in the bush, during all my rambles in New Zealand.

May 14. -- We took an early start, our road continuing level along the wooded plateau, then for a short distance up-hill. There the woods opened, and we stood at the margin of the plateau breaking off abruptly towards the plains of the Waiho and Piako; on our right the great fall of the Wairere river, which noisily tumbles over the precipice into the depths below. In fair weather, the prospect from this point must be a glorious one; but the tempest chasing heavy clouds of mist over our heads, deprived us of that pleasure. The upper part of the mountain-side being densely wooded, it is not easy to find a suitable place from which a full view may be had of the fall. I therefore, before ascending the last height, proceeded along the left bank of the Wairere creek through the bush, advancing to a place where the river first falls over a bank 10 feet high, and then suddenly plunges down into the depths. The heavy Southwest wind drove the spray back, and I stood there like in a heavy shower of rain. On ascending from here the height on the left, I had quite a fair view of the falls. The river precipitates in three steps over columnar trachytic rocks, and the total height of the falls I found to be 670 feet. The descent from the plateau is very steep. Having reached the valley, we took a southerly direction up the valley along the foot of the range, and rested for dinner near the small settlement Okauwia. Not far from here on the left bank of the Waiho is the old Pah Pupunui, and half a mile above this Pah on the banks of the Waiho there are three warm springs, on the left bank the Paruparu and Ramaroa, on the right bank the Okahukura. The latter, of a temperature of 117 deg. E., bubbles from the sandy bed of a small creek near its junction with the Waiho; the natives have constructed a basin for bathing by damming it up. Also farther North at the foot of the Aroha mountain warm springs are said to break forth. After passing numerous swampy creeks, we reached towards evening the settlement Whatiwhati, about ten miles South of the Wairere.

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On the 15. May an easterly gale blowing and the rain pouring down in torrents, we were obliged to keep within our tents all day. It was not until evening; that the sky cleared off.

The 16. May was bright and warm as a spring-day. The preparations, however, which my Maoris were making for our to-day's journey, packing shoes and trowsers into their bundles, led me to suppose, that despite the delightful weather we should have enough to do with water. We advanced in a westerly direction towards the Maungatautari mountain, an old acquaintance from the Middle Waikato Basin. The beginning of the road was tolerably good. It lay partly over low fern-hills, partly over grassy plains, the pumicestone-soil and the grass-vegetation reminding us of the terraced country about Lake Taupo. Towards South a white cloud was seen, which could be no other than a steam-cloud ascending from the Tongariro, although the volcanic cone itself was not visible. Judging from the colossal dimensions of the cloud, the crater seemed to-day to be in an extraordinary state of activity. We crossed the tributaries of the Waiho coming from the Patetere plateau, first the Rapurapu river, then the Waiomau, and six miles from Whatiwhati we struck the Waiho itself. 4 The river, which sixty miles farther North empties into the Hauraki-Gulf, bearing the proud name of the New Zealand Thames, which already Captain Cook gave the stream, is here, near its source in the Patetere plateau, only a small creek six to eight feet wide, which has cut its bed thirty to forty feet deep into the soft pumicestone-banks. A suspension-bridge most curiously constructed of branches leads across. The Maori geographers, however, seem to have taken an unusual liberty in this case; for scarcely two miles from the Waiho the traveller comes to a large rapid stream, running in a broad river-bed, which empties into the Waiho and bears the name of Oraka; this is evidently the main-river. From the Waiho to the Mangawhero, the last tributary of the Waiho -- a distance of three miles -- we were obliged to wade almost without interruption in stagnating water,

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and it was not until reaching the Tirua range which separates the Waiho valley from that of the Piako, that we stepped once more upon dry ground, where we could rest for dinner. The Tirua range (the name Horokatoa has also been mentioned to me as belonging to the same range) is a low, woodless range of hills forming a spur of the volcanic table-land in the South and consisting of yellowish pumicestone-tuff. Beyond the Tirua range we had to cross first the Mangaokahu creek, and then the Waitoa, the principal tributary of the Piako. The Piako itself rises more to the Northwest in the Maungakawa range, which separates the Piako plains from those of the Waikato; and here we meet again the singular case that the Waitoa, the main-river with a longer course and a greater supply of water, must surrender its name to the Piako at their junction. The crossing of the Waitoa, a stream not very broad, but very deep and rapid, was difficult and dangerous. One of the Maoris lost his balance in the swift current and was in great danger of being carried down a fall 20 feet high, a few yards further; luckily, however, he succeeded in holding himself by some bushes on the bank, until we rescued him from his critical situation. At our place of crossing the valley was flat and swampy, but below the fall it changes to a deep gorge with vertical sides of pumicestone-tuff.

One and a half miles from the Waitoa runs the Waikato, separated from the former only by low hills. After passing through a marshy flat between the Hinuwera and the Tekopua ridges, we reached the topmost terrace of the Waikato valley, about 200 feet above the river, and thence descended upon the second terrace, covered with Manuka bushes. A mile farther up we came to the remarkable place, where the mighty stream, narrowing to within 30 feet, plunges roaring and foaming through a deep rocky gully; the only place narrow enough to admit of its being bridged over by the natives. The name of the place is Aniwhaniwha. It was already evening when we crossed the bridge, and pitched our tents on the left bank of the river upon the lowest terrace amongst a luxuriant growth of Manuka-bushes. Along a distance of about 18 miles we had on that day passed not less than eight rivers, without,

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however, having seen a single settlement. This I can only account for by the fact, that the whole country there is treeless, and that the natives in order to have firewood at hand prefer to locate their villages at the edges of the bush along the foot of the ranges bordering the plains and river-valleys.

May 17. -- Aniwhaniwha is situated at the northeastern foot of the Maungatautari. The Waikato flows in a deep erosion-valley, on the West-side of which I counted seven terraces rising one above the other with the utmost regularity; near Mangatautari the river gradually works its way out of the volcanic table-land, which lies between the Taupo-district and the middle Waikato-Basin, and a

Sketch of the Waikato near Aniwhaniwha. Terraces of the valley.

few miles farther-on it enters the plains. The formation of the river-bed near Aniwhaniwha is a very singular one. Above the gorge, across which the bridge is made, the river makes a futile attempt to escape to one side. One branch of it turns off, and has excavated the deep basin Tekopua; but the waters can find no outlet and rush with mad uproar, tumbling over large blocks of rock, back to the mainstream, in order to force in junction with the latter the passage through the rocks. Upon the rock-island girt by the two branches of the river, a Maori Pah is said to have stood in former times; but one may justly ask, how did those people make their way across the torrent to that island? The chasm or gorge, which the waters have to pass, is 400 feet long, 30 to 40 feet wide and, no doubt, very deep. The waters seethe and foam in the deep and narrow channel and dash from it into an extensive basin called Makiha, from which they continue their onward course smoothly and placidly. The rocks of the river-bed consist

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of a yellowish volcanic tuff, intermixed with pumicestone, and it is strange enough, that the brittle rook should withstand such a powerful swell of the water. The bridge consists of a Totara log-hewn out in the shape of a flat canoe; it is safe enough even for horses. A few yards above the bridge, on the left bank of the river, and on a tabular rock, which in time of high-water is flooded by the rapid stream, a very striking phenomenon presents itself. In the bed of the rock there are numerous round holes, one to three and even four feet wide, and equally deep, appearing as if wrought by art; in each of those holes there is a stone, sometimes two or three, all round like cannon-balls, consisting of hard trachyt or dolerit. I stood for a moment wondering what it meant; but the interpretation of it is very simple. These pot-holes are evidently caused by a process of erosion, during the rapid flow of the river over the bed of the rock. Any obstacle causes the waters to move in a whirl and carry around pebbles or stones, and by this process the stones gradually grind their way into the rock. The hole being once started, it is bored deeper and deeper, the eddying waters keeping the pebbles and stones in a constant rotatory motion. Thus the stones grind a circular hole into the rock, and are themselves ground off into balls. The phenomenon is interesting enough to induce the traveller to walk a few yards up the river; to step upon the rocky bank, which is quite dry at an ordinary stage of water; and there to look at the pot holes. Just opposite the Pokaiwhenua (i. e. boring its way into the earth), empties through a narrow gorge into the Waikato. The height of the Waikato above the level of the sea near Aniwhaniwha I found to be 166 feet; consequently from lake Taupo to this place, a distance of about 70 miles, the river falls 1080 feet, forming rapids upon rapids; and only a few miles farther down it commences to be navigable for canoes.

Having scaled the pumicestone-terraces on the left bank of the river to a height of about 250 feet, we stood at the foot of the Maungatautari. Numerous, small tributaries of the Waikato have their source in the forests and ravines of the mountain. At a northern spur stands the Pah Whareturere, where we were kindly received

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by the natives, and lodged in a house built in European style. The Chief Tioriori being not at home, his wife, a portly Maori-woman, acted the kind and obliging hostess, and ere long a pig was killed and the tea ready.

May 18. -- Maungatautari is a trachytic mountain like the Pirongia on the Waipa, its highest peaks reaching a height of about 2600 feet above the level of the sea. Along its eastern foot runs the Waikato. On its Northwest-side rises the Mangapiko, a considerable tributary of the Waipa, and towards West and North it extends its branches far off into the plains between the Waikato and Waipa.

From Tiorirori's Pah on the northern slope of the mountain I dispatched one half of my party down the Waikato, which commences to be navigable in the vicinity of Horotiu below the Hautupu and Paratoketoke rapids; myself and my friend Dr. Haast taking a westerly course, pursuant to a friendly invitation on the part of the Rev. Mr. Morgan to visit Rangiawhia and Otawhao. In Kirikiriroa on the Waikato we were to meet again. It was a bright and pleasant day. Upon the height of the Pukekura I met a Maori messenger with two saddle-horses, sent for us by the Rev. Mr. Morgan. We had to cross the Mangapiko creek, and were on the other side most kindly received by Mr. Ireland, the teacher of Otawhao, who had come to meet us with no less than nine saddle-horses, which the natives of Rangiawhia had placed at our service. It was a pleasing moment indeed, as we met there together, mounted the horses and gallopped gaily along. The direct road to Rangiawhia across the large swamps of the Mangapiko is impassable for horses. Mr. Morgan, therefore, had for years past made a special path for horseback-travelling, which leads over the gap running West from the Maungatautari and across the Whanake mountain. It continues quite steep up-hill and down-hill; but on arriving at the top a magnificent prospect over the Waikato country from the Pirongia in the West to the Aroha in the East affords ample indemnification for the fatiguing ascent; and even the Taupiri in the North we had the pleasure of hailing again.

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At 5 p.m. we reached Rangiawhia, situated in the fertile plain between the Waikato and Waipa. Extensive wheat, maize, and potatoe-plantings surround the place, broad carriage-roads run in different directions; numerous horses and herds of well-fed cattle bear testimony to the wealthy condition of the natives; and the huts scattered over a large area are entirely concealed among fruit-trees. A separate race-course is laid out; here is a court-house, there a store; farther-on a mill on a mill-pond, and high above the luxuriant fruit-trees rise the tapering spires of the catholic and protestant churches. I was surprised on entering the latter sanctuary, at beholding a beautifully painted glass-window reflecting its mellow tints into my wondering eyes. Such is Rangiawhia -- the only Maori-settlement, among those I have seen, which might be called a town -- 5 a place, which by its central position in the most fertile district of the North Island, and as the central point of the corn-trade, bids fair to rise ere long to the rank and size of a flourishing staple-town. A large number of the inhabitants had assembled at our arrival, among them the pretty young wife of the chief Wiremu Toetoe, who had been one of the party on board the Novara on the return voyage to Europe. The magnificent sorrel, on which I was mounted, had been sent by Toetoe's spouse for my special accommodation; it was Toetoe's own favorite charger. I had to tell them of the Novara and her route to Europe; and was subsequently not only charged with letters and greetings, but the affectionate Mrs. Toetoe even sent a photograph by me to her distant husband. On a good road we had soon traversed the short distance between Rangiawhia and Otawhao, where we were received with a most hearty welcome by the Rev. Mr. Morgan and his family.

May 19. -- Otawhao is one of the principal Mission stations of the Anglican High-Church. A church, a school, gardens, meadows and smiling fields have taken the place of an old dilapidated Maori Pah; and we could well appreciate the proud joy swelling the heart of our noble minded host, on seeing the lovely

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group of blooming daughters, who are the ornament of the Otawhao Mission station. The fleeting hours of the pleasant day I spent at Otawhao, slipped away amid interesting conversations about the country and the people, and promenades through the environs of the place. In the old Pah I found among the rubbish of the huts

Missionary school at Otawhao.

one of those grotesque figures carved in wood, which in olden times had graced the dwellings of the Maoris. It was 5 feet high and still in a tolerable state of preservation. I did not hesitate to appropriate it and to take it home with me to Europe as a specimen of Maori sculpture. Notwithstanding the greatest possible caution on my part, however, it was rumoured among the natives that I had packed up one of their ancestors; the figure was demanded back from me on the plea that it was intended to grace the residence of the Maori king Potatau. Nevertheless it now stands safe and sound in the Novara-Museum at Vienna; whence Potatau II is quite welcome to reclaim it.

May 20. -- Mr. Morgan very kindly lent us horses and ordered one of his natives along to guide us a far as Kirikiriroa. The road, a convenient horse-path, after passing the Mangahoe and Mangapiko, lies across an undulating hilly country, through a charming pond-landscape with picturesque groves of Kahikatea pines. We

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passed eight small lakes or ponds and several deserted Pahs. After a ride of four hours we arrived at Kirikiriroa, a settlement on the left bank of the Waikato, where we met the other half of our party, who had arrived an hour before. The Waikato here has dug its bed with two terraces about 50 feet deep into the pumicestone and sand-alluvium. On the upper river terrace are the plantations of the natives.

On the 21st May we proceeded down the Waikato. Captain Hay had hired a large canoe for us, hewn out of a rimu-log, 64 feet long and 4 feet wide, in which our whole party consisting of twenty-five persons was easily accommodated together with all our luggage. We had twenty paddles; the morning was bright and pleasant. At 9 a. m. we pushed off from the bank and at 11 a.m. we landed at Ngaruawahia in front of the residence of the Maori King. Favored by the current of the river, we had paddled the distance of about fifteen miles in two hours.

Ngaruawahia, residence of the Maori King Potatau in 1859.

Our object was to pay a visit to the King Potatau. In the first hut we came to, we met the king's private secretary Te Wetini Te Tekerahi, a tall stout man with his face beautifully tattooed, his whole carriage and expression indicating pride and determination. He received us very kindly, ordered forthwith dinner for the Maoris of my party, and went to acquaint the king with our arrival. We were soon informed by Te Wetini, that the king had

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granted the interview and was awaiting us. I therefore proceeded to the Royal residence. The king's palace -- a spacious hut, built in the best style of Maori architecture with a flag-staff next to it -- was situated upon the heighest point of the neck of land between the Waikato and Waipa, with a view of both rivers. Some smaller huts standing aside among ferns and shrubs were the first signs of the future capital of New Zealand designed by the king's party. The flag on the flagstaff had a centrepiece of white surrounded by a red border; on the white there was a blue cross, besides that the inscription "Nuitireni" and three diamond-shaped figures. In front of the royal residence stood a

The flag of the Maori King.

sentinel in blue uniform with red facings and shining brass-buttons. This was the guard of the palace. We entered through the door into a large room; in which there were about twenty persons assembled. On the right side, in a dark corner, sat upon a mat of straw and wrapped in a dark blue blanket a blind old man, his head bowed low with age, it was Potatau Te Wherowhero, King of the Maoris. The face of the old man tattooed all over, displayed handsome regular features; the deep scar upon his forehead betokened the veteran warrior, who had fought through many a bloody cannibal-fight. Potatau returned our salutations on being presented to him only with slightly raising of his head. Captain Hay told him of our travels, but the old man spoke not a word. Two young men, however, setting near the king were very curious to receive from us information as to European history and geography, and kept up the conversation in his stead. It was evident, that the decrepit old man, who was on the very brink of the grave, 6 merely lent his celebrated name to the support of the royal title, and that other, younger men were at the head of the national movement, the so-called "king movement". A tall

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young man of sullen mien was presented to us as the king's son; the daughter of the king was just busy washing. We were invited to dinner, and wore regaled with dried shark as a special delicacy. I admired the appetite of the Maoris, without however being able to prevail upon myself to join in; I was truly glad, when after dinner the ceremony ended and I had once more an opportunity of inhaling the fresh air in front of the royal hut.

After a stay of two hours we paddled rapidly down the Waikato and enjoyed once more the fine scenery of the Taupiri range. After a short stop at the Taupiri Mission station, to greet the Rev. Mr. Ashwell, we proceeded down the river and took up our quarters for the night at Rangiriri.

On the 22d May a very heavy gale was blowing, which stirred up such waves upon the broad river, that we could not think of venturing to proceed in our heavily loaded canoe. The gale ended in the night with a violent tempest and heavy showers of rain. In the morning of the 23rd the weather had cleared off so that we could continue our journey, and at 1 p.m. we landed at the Teia Creek, a little below the mouth of the Mangatawhiri. Thence we had to climb up and down a slippery hill, until we reached the house of an European settler at Mangatawhiri. After resting a short time, we thence set out to Drury. The Waipapa Creek near Mangatawhiri having risen to such a size, that we were obliged to build a temporary bridge over it, in order to cross, we were detained so long, that it was already quite dark when we reached the Great South Road. Hence forth, we thought we should have easy travelling; but how sadly were we disappointed! Never have I seen anything, that is called a road, in such a condition. The Great South Road had more the appearance of a river or a marsh, where we sank in knee-deep, than of a road; moreover a heavy tempest broke loose, the rain poured down in torrents, and only the frequent flashes of lightning served to illume the darkness of the night. Yet notwithstanding all this we were determined to reach the Drury Hotel that same evening. The plight we finally arrived there at 9 p.m., I need not describe.

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However, "all's well that ends well." We found in the excellent hotel everything necessary to make us feel comfortable once more, and on the 24th we were all safely back in Auckland, and highly gratified with our three-months journey.

Appendix.

Table of altitudes in the southern part of the Province of Auckland.

+ Altitudes taken from the New Zealand Pilot, and the Admiralty maps. -- b Barometrical measurements by Dr. F. Hochstetter. -- * Estimated.

English feet.

Auckland -- Meteorological Observatory of the Royal Engineer Department. 140 +

Claremont House, upper end of Princess-street. 130 b

Kaipara Harbour, West Coast:

Te Karanga hill, on the Otamotea river... 1440 +

Wakakuranga hill on the Oruawharu river... 476 +

Opara hill......378 +

Auckland Peak, near Otau Creek.......1023 +

Koharanga, on the Kaipara river.......326 +1

Titirangi chain, between the Waitakeri and the ManukauHarbour:

Mount Tea Wekatuku.. 1430 +

Pukematiku, Henderson's Bush.......1300 *

Maungatoetoe, near Delworth's Farm.... 1200 *

Parera cliffs, West Coast. 700 *

Manukau Harbour, West Coast:

Paratutai Island, Signal Station......350 +

Pilot Station.....300 *

Pukehuhu......690 +

Omanawanui Peak... 1100 *

Te Kaamoki, or Te Komoki Peak, near the Huia. 480 +

The Huia Peak.... 1280 +

Puponga, highest point. 390 +

Hill on the left border of the big Muddy Creek. 600 +

Hill near Whau Creek. 800 +

South Head, Mahanihani. 580 +

East Coast, from the Bay of Islands to the Waitemata Harbour (Harbour of Auckland):

Cape Tewara or Bream Head, Wangarei Harbour 1502 +

Summit between Bream Head and Home Point, Wangarei Harbour.. 1340 +

Moto Tiri Island Hen and Chickens 725 +

Taranga Island 1353 +

Mount Hamilton, near Rodney's Point.....1050 +

Kawau Island, Mt. Taylor 510 +

Little Barrier Island (Houturu), Mt. Many Peaks 2383 +

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English feet.

Great Barrier Island (Aotea), Mount Hobson.. 2330 +

The extinct Volkanoes near Auckland:

Rangitoto...... 920 +

North Head, Takapuna. 216 +

Mount Victoria, Takarunga 280 +

Heaphy Hill..... 100 +

Mount Eden..... 642 +

" Hobson.... 430 +

" St. John.... 400 +

" Albert..... 400 +

" Kennedy.... 310 +

" Three Kings... 390 +

One Tree Hill.... 580 +

Mount Smart..... 300 *

" Wellington... 350 *

Pigeon Hill..... 110 +

Otara Hill...... 150 +

Mangere Hill..... 333 +

Waitomokia..... 120 *

Puketutu....... 263 +

Otuataua...... 300 +

Maunga taketake... 300 +

Manurewa...... 300 +

Matakarua...... 300 +

Drury -- Young's Inn (first storey)...... 75 b

Brown coal shaft on Farmer's land..... 356 b

Great South Road, between Drury and Mangatawhiri:

1. First hill at the entrance of the bush.... 491 b

2. Highest point of the road 811 b

3. Waikohowheke, house on the road.... 598 b

4. Second height of the road on the point where the view of the Waikato opens 770 b

Mangatawhiri, Maori settlement ....... 77 b

Papahorahora, near Kupakupa, on the left bank of the Waikato, the brown coal seam.......250 *

Taupiri, hill on the right border of the Waikato, opposite the Mission Station 983 b

Kakepuku, isolated mountain not far from the Mission Station on the Waipa. 1531 b

Points between the Waipa River and the West Coast:

Toketoke creek, on the way from Whatawhata to Whaingaroa.....249 b

Highest point of the road from Whatawhata to Whaingaroa.....853 b

Whaingaroa Harbour, Captain Johnston's house. 93 b

Mill on the Oparau River, Kawhia Harbour... 97 b

Pirongia, highest point of the road from the Oparau River to the Waipa.. 1585 b

Pirongia, highest point of the mountain.... 2830 +

Waikato River:

1. Near Mangatawhiri.. 35 *

2. Near Rangiriri, pah on the right bank... 51 b

3. Near Taipouri, island in the river with a Maori village...... 63 b

4. Near Tukopoto, Taupiri Mission Station... 75 b

5. Ngaruawahia, residence

of the Maori King.. 85 *

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English feet.

6. Kirikiriroa..... 97 b

7. Aniwhaniwha, Waikato Bridge...... 166 b

8. Near Orakei Korako. 970 b

9. Outlet from Taupo lake 1250 b

Between the Waikato and Waipa:

Maungatautari, Maori pah 621b

Otawhao, Mission Station 211 b Waipa River and District:

Ngaruawahia..... 85 *

Whatawhata, 20 feet above the river......109 b

School-house at Whatawhata 112 b

Kaipiha, Mr. Turner's house 167 b

Waipa, at the junction of the Mangaweka... 143 b

Mission Station of the Rev. A. Reid, 25 feet above the bed of the river.. 173 b

Awatoitoi, Maori settlement on the right bank of the Waipa, 25 feet above the bed of the river... 185 *

Orahiri, on the left bank of the Waipa.... 186*

Hangatiki, Maori settlement 195 b

Te Ana Uriuri, cave.. 204 b

Tauahuhu, Maori settlement on the left bank of the Wangapu.... 196 b

Mangawhitikau, Maori village .......237 b

Puke Aruhe, hill... 877 b

Upper Mokau district:

Takapau, Maori settlement 823 b

Piopio, Maori settlement on the upper Mokau River 469 b

Mokau River, above the Wairere falls.... 420 b

Pukewhau, Maori pah on the left bank of the Mokau River.....683 b

Mokauiti, between the Maori settlement Huritu and Puhanga......473 b

Puhanga, Maori settlement on the Tuparae hill.. 937 b

Morotawha, place of encampment on the 7th and 8th of April, 1859... 570 b

Tarewatu mountain ridge, height of pass from the Mokau to the Wanganui district......1581 b

Tarewatu, highest point. 1790 b

Tapuiwahine, highest point on the way from Mokau to Wanganui.... 1933 b

Upper Wanganui, Tuhua District:

Ohura, Maori village.. 917b

Katiaho, Maori settlement, on the Ongaruhe river.......650 b

Ngariha hill, on the Ongaruhe river near Katiaho .......1551b

Pokomotu plateau, highest point on the way from Katiaho to Petania.. 1386 b

Petania, Maori village on the Taringamotu river. 754 b

Takaputiraha chain, passage from Petania to Taupo.......1534 b

Pungapunga creek, on the road to Taupo.... 897 b

Puketapu, hill on the road to Taupo..... 2073 b

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English feet.

Taupo District:

Moerangi, pumice-stone plateau on the west and south-west of Lake Taupo......2188 b

Whakaironui..... 2175 b

Kuratao river on the road to Pukawa.....1719 b

Poaru, Maori settlement. 2289 b

Pukawa, pah on the southern bank of Lake Taupo 1399 b

Mission Station of the Rev. Mr. Grace, at Lake Taupo 1473 b

Koroiti plateau, on the south bank of Lake Taupo 1768 b

Taupo Lake (by Dieffenbach, 1337 feet)... 1250 b

Roto Aira, by Dieffenbach 1709

Roto Punamu, by Dieffenbach .......2147

Tongariro and Ruapahu:

Tongariro, Ngauruhoe(by Dieffenbach 6200).. 6500 *

Ruapahu, on Taylor's map 10, 236 *

" Arrowsmith's map 9000 *

" Admiralty map. 9195 *

Pihanga.......3500 *

Between Taupo Lake and the East Coast:

Oruanui, Maori settlement 1672 b

Plateau above Orakei Korako 2200 *

Orakei Korako, pah on the left bank of the Waikato river.......1169 b

Boiling mud springs at the foot of Paeroa.... 1409 b

Waikite, hot springs at the Paeroa range.... 1241 b

Pakaraka, above Roto Kakahi.......1801 b

Roto Kakahi, Lake... 1378b

Roto Mahana, Lake.. 1088 b

Tarawera, Lake.... 1075 b

Papawera plateau, between Roto Mahana and Tarawera .......1867 b

Mission Station on Tarawera Lake, Rev. Mr. Spencer......1502 b

Rotorua, Lake.... 1043 b

Ngongotaha, mount on the southern bank of Rotorua......2282 b

Rotokawa, small lake on the southern bank of Rotorua......1098 b

Waiohewa, or Ngae, settlement on the north-eastern bank of Rotorua... 1103 b

Pukeko, on the Rotoiti. 1063 b

Omatuku, near Maketu. 1388 b

East Coast:

Major island (Tuhua), highest point......410 +

Monganui hill, at the entrance of the Tauranga harbour...... 860 +

Plate Island (Motunau), centrum .......166 +

Whale Island, or Motu Hora, highest point.. 1167 +

White Island, or Whakari 863 +

Mount Edgcumbe, eastern summit......2575 +

East Cape (East Cape Islet) 420 +

Between the East Coast and the Waiho River:

Waipapa creek, on the road from Tauranga, to the Waiho.....803 b

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English feet.

Wairere river, immediately above the falls... 1442 b

Height of the pass over the Whanga range, near the Wairere falls.... 1481 b

The height of the Wairere Falls.......670 b

Waiho Flats, near Wairere Falls.......573 b

Whatiwhati, settlement at the foot of the Patetere plateau 537 b

Castle Hill (Cape Colville range) near Coromandel Harbour......1610 +