1865 - Howitt, W. The History of Discovery in Australia, Tasmania and New Zealand [New Zealand sections] - CHAPTER XXII. DISCOVERY OF THE INSULARITY OF THE SOUTH ISLAND, 418-426

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CHAPTER XXII.

DISCOVERY OF THE INSULARITY OF THE SOUTH ISLAND.

THIS island was discovered to be such by one Stewart, a sealer and whaler, a Scotchman, who found that what had been thought a bay, was in reality a strait, when in pursuit of his business as a sealer. The island is, therefore, now called Stewart Island, though the straits are called Foveaux Straits. Stewart died at Poverty Bay, and, unfortunately, in actual poverty, in 1851, at the age of eighty-five.

SETTLEMENT OF THE MIDDLE ISLAND.

The river Owerrie, in the Middle Island, was explored in 1840 by a party from the Pelorus, who gave it the name of that vessel; its waters are deep enough to serve as a port of refuge in Cook's Strait, though its entrance is not easily perceived. In November, 1847, the first ship of emigrants sailed from Greenock for Otago. This place, chosen for the settlement in place of Canterbury Plain, is near the southern extremity of the Middle Island, and on the east coast of it. The harbour is safe, but difficult of entrance; the land about Otago is hilly, but to the south of it there are large grassy plains, better adapted for pasturage than the land in any other part of New Zealand. There were few natives in this district, and all lived on a piece of ground which had been reserved for them. The leader of the

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colonists was Captain William Cargill, of the 74th regiment, an old soldier of the Peninsula, and a descendant of the celebrated Donald Cargill. Otago, in his hands, became Port Chalmers, the capital, Dunedin, and the settlers Pilgrim Fathers.

SETTLEMENT OF CANTERBURY.

As Otago was a settlement of the Scotch Church, so Canterbury was designed for a settlement of the English Church. It was a project of Edward Gibbon Wakefield's, and established on his land principles. Mr. John Robert Godley was his great coadjutor in the scheme. The association consisted of noblemen, archbishops, bishops, clergy, and gentlemen. Magnificent plans of palaces and colleges were exhibited at home, and as in the Adelaide Wakefield scheme, which had so egregiously failed, gentlemen were to purchase large estates, and labourers were to be brought over by the proceeds from the sale of lands, who were always to remain labourers. It was to be a bit of feudal Old England transported to the antipodes, and there stereotyped for ever. Land was to be sold at £3 an acre, 20s. of which were to be spent in churches and colleges, 20s. in emigration, 10s. in roads, and 10s. left as profits on the land sales to the company.

The first settlers arrived on the 10th of December, 1850, but as God and nature were opposed to any such schemes of aristocrats and helots, the whole went to the wall like the experiment at Adelaide, and government had to step in, advance money as at Adelaide, and then break up the so-much vaunted Canterbury Association, because it could not discharge its engagements to the New Zealand Company for the land. The charter was cancelled in 1852, after a trial of only two years. "In the mean time," says Dr. Thomson, in his "Story of New Zealand," "discontentment and disappointment had spread amongst the upper classes. The bishop designate returned home, and his place was not supplied until 1856; the lord fled to Sydney, and thence to Eng-

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land; several priests emigrated to other settlements, and Mr. Godley, the leader of the pilgrims, returned to England in 1853."

The church and Wakefield's plans being broken up, the settlement at once began to prosper.

We have briefly alluded to the coast surveys of New Zealand. In those made by Captain Lort Stokes in 1850, he examined and laid down the seaboard of the Middle Island from Otago to Preservation Harbour on the south-east coast, a distance of 220 miles, and he gives some interesting particulars of that part of the island in a report to the Admiralty, dated Wellington, September 1st, 1850.

In this stretch of coast, Captain Stokes found only four roadsteads and one port; and of the twenty-three rivers in this extent of coast line, four only were available for small vessels, and only two, the Waikawa and Orete or Eurete, the New River, for ships of from 300 to 400 tons. The latter he considered of the most importance, since it led to a fertile district, and is separated nearly by a half-mile pasturage from the head-waters of Bluff Harbour, which had an available block of land within the eastern entrance of Foveaux Strait and distant 130 miles from Otago. This prairie land is bounded by a range of rugged, snow-clad mountains, the highest at a distance of eighty miles, rising to an elevation of 6700 feet. Three openings in the northern hills show the course of the Aparima or Jacob River, winding along the western edge of the plain, that of the New River traversing its central part, with the Mataura running on its eastern side.

They ascended the New River in a whale-boat for nearly thirty miles in a north half east direction. In that distance, the land rose gradually 200 feet by three steps, occasioning somewhat dangerous rapids. The depth of water varied from two to eight feet, the width from 50 to 500 yards. The banks on either side were rich in soil, and varied by verdant meadows or woods. The Mataura and Jacob Rivers were partially examined

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by Mr. Hamilton and Mr. Spencer of the Acheron, the surveying vessel, whilst she was occupied on the shores of Stewart Island. They explored the intermediate country, and reached Otago in sixteen days, each carrying 30 lbs. weight of baggage, which from unexpected accidents, was frequently increased to 70 lbs., they being the first Europeans who had accomplished that journey. They regarded the country westward of the Clutha as far as Jacob's River, as well calculated for settlement, the plains stretching eastward of the Jacob to a distance of forty miles, including 600,000 acres of rich soil. Eastward of this plain, a chain of densely wooded hills, extend as far as the Molyneux district, having an elevation towards the sea of 2000 feet. Inland they are lower and more free from wood. This tract of land, broadest towards the south, has an area of from 700,000 to 800,000 acres of good land. There were indications of peat or turf suitable for fuel, and at Tuturau the richness of the soil was shown by a solitary Maori family having raised potatoes, which exceeded those brought by Bishop Selwyn from the Chatham Isles, nine inches each way, which were considered the most remarkable specimens of this root grown in the southern hemisphere. The natives offered to sell all the land from Otago to the western coast, making certain reserves.

Captain Stokes gives a few particulars regarding Stewart Island. He found its coasts, except the south end, which had been surveyed by Cook, extremely inaccurately laid down. The eastern and northern sides have good harbours, Paterson Inlet having no superior in New Zealand. It has many convenient heaving-down coves, and was generally surrounded by fine timber, such as rimu, rata, pine, totara, etc. This inlet appeared very eligible for a small, pastoral settlement. He found on a narrow tongue of land twelve out of the 107 European inhabitants of Foveaux Strait, who had a few cattle. The other white men lived scattered over the north and south shores. Some had passed

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twenty-two years in that solitude, and were generally married to Maori women, and their daughters were the wives of Europeans also. Their small clearings exhibited a fertile but shallow soil. Of the Maori population, amounting to 280 individuals, 105 resided on Ruapuki Island, and though they had sold some portions to Europeans, appeared desirous to retain the rest. A few plants common to the Auckland Islands, were found in Foveaux Strait, and a bird, a snipe, excited their surprise, being the first of the species seen in New Zealand. They heard rumours of beaver in the great lakes on the Middle Island, but could find no native who had seen them, and, therefore, deemed them fabulous. They were told of a large lizard which inspired feelings of awe and fear. They saw 200 head of cattle in fine condition on the New River, and observed lignite on the river, and an inferior coal on the Mataura.

Captain Stokes and Mr. Hamilton had explored a portion of the interior near Bank's Peninsula, and were preparing to proceed to New Plymouth, and afterwards to the west coast of the Middle Island, and expected to complete the survey of these coasts during the summer.

Mr. Tuckett, who had been employed in surveying for the New Zealand Company, had also discovered coal in Foveaux Strait, hut did not think so favourably of the climate of that part of the island as Captain Stokes, Mr. Hamilton, and their friends.

DISCOVERIES IN THE MIDDLE ISLAND CONTINUED.

In 1850, Mr. G. H. Brown and Mr. George Duppa succeeded in riding through, from Nelson to Canterbury, by Mr. Weld's track, who first explored it, namely, by the Wairau gorge and Lake Tennyson. In a letter published in the Nelson Examiner, they reported the route unattended by any difficulty or danger, excepting at one ford in the Wairau gorge, which could be easily avoided by a side cutting less than a hundred yards in length.

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In the beginning of 1857, Mr. J. Turnbull Thomson, chief surveyor of Otago, explored, in successive trips, the southern extremity of New Zealand on foot, carrying his theodolite and "swag" of clothes over 1500 miles of difficult country, and driving pack-horses laden with flour. It is now curious to see his estimate of the characteristics of the different parts of the country and its population betwixt the Waiau and Mataura Rivers and the Umbrella, Eyre, and Takitimo Mountains.

Square Miles.

Forest land ............ 570
Moss and swamp........ 108
Agricultural............ 400
Pastoral................2150
Barren Mountains........ 500
Total..........3728

Population.

Europeans...............253
Half Castes.............. 70
Maories..................119
Total.......... 442

On the 6th of January, they left Dunedin, and sailed to the mouth of the Oreti, or New River, in Foveaux's Strait. They ascended this river to some distance, and visited some stations amongst the tropical-looking forests on its banks. In this route they were in the early mornings delighted by the songs of birds, which so much charmed Captain Cook. They were aroused by the familiarity of the robin, which was close to them as they sate by their fire, and by the tui, or parson bird, which, of a jet black, seems to be imitating the gestures and exclamations of a preacher in a pulpit. Returning down the New River, he and his companions Drummond and Lindsay went to Invercargill, and hired a pack-horse to carry their provisions into the interior. On their way up the country they came upon various Maori ovens, such as they used till they adopted the camp-oven of the white man. Mr. Thomson made the remains of these ovens indications of the former population of the country. They were holes in the ground, four or five feet in diameter, and of the same depth, lined with stones, which they heated in the same manner as the natives of Polynesia. As these were placed near the forest for the con-

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venience of fuel, when now found far from forest, he regarded that as a proof that the forest had receded, having been destroyed by fires.

Their progress was now to the Hokunnui Hills, of which the Ship Cone was 2000 feet high. These hills were timbered half-way up their southern sides. Thence they proceeded to the foot of the Dome Mountain, complaining much in their progress of Spaniards, that is, cacti with sharp-pointed blades, and Wild Irishmen, scrub full of prickles, and difficult to penetrate. They ascended the Dome and Cupola, the first 4505 feet above the level of the sea, the second 4045 feet. The heads of the Mataura River were seen to come out of the Eyre Mountains, issuing by a deep gorge into the Waimea Plains. On these mountains they gathered the New Zealand strawberry. To the N. N. E. they saw an opening in the hills, through which no high land was visible, and conjectured it to be the pass into the central district, then entirely unknown to the European, and but vaguely described by the Maori. The panorama of the Dome Mountain was extremely fine, presenting to view the snow-clad and serrated outline of the Eyre Mountains, the extensive plains of Waiopai, Mataura, Waiau, Clutha, and Waimea, Molyneux Bay, Tewaiwais Bay, Solander Island, and the boundless Southern Ocean. They then crossed the Oreti; they held down the Aparima, and proceeded to Jacob's River Settlement. This was an old whaling station. Formerly the Maories of that district amounted to 3000 or 4000; many were driven over to Codfish and Centre Island by more powerful northern tribes, and many have perished by the white men's vices, drink, and diseases. At Mr. Thomson's visit, they were estimated at about 400. The settlers, descendants of the old whalers and sealers, struck Mr. Thomson in their secluded and independent life, with their simple hospitality and country manners, as much resembling the Shetlanders, as described by Sir Walter Scott. They frequented the rainy west coast of Middle Island in pursuit of whaling and sealing, and this coast, at that time, was

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almost exclusively left to their visits. The Maories of the settlement had adopted European houses and costume. Their houses, however, contained only one room, abounded with fleas, and they still squatted on the floor instead of using chairs.

Mr. Thomson gives a vivid idea of the perils of the life of these sealers of Jacob River Settlement, and says:-- "In these remote regions how many have been the cries of agony and despair emitted in vain! Even the few hardy Europeans of Codfish Island, when occupied in their adventurous enterprises, how often were their experiences of hardships from shipwreck and starvation aggravated by the cannibal tribes which surrounded them! Of these times the 'old hands' have many a heart-rending tale to relate, but they relate them without deigning to expect your sympathy-hard lives and rough usage, surfeits in plenty, and starvation in poverty, have blunted or effaced all relics of what civilization calls 'feelings.'"

On the 26th of February they proceeded with their pack-horses across the Waiau Plains, ascended Twinlaw, and saw the Waiau, the great river of the west, coming from the Takitimo mountains. They forded the Orawia, and saw the great forests extending from the Waiau to the sea, and upwards to the regions of snow. In washing the sands of the Waiau they found a speck of gold. The recent remains of the gigantic moa, led them to believe that this Titan of birds might yet possibly exist amid the deep forests and mountain gorges of this wild region. On the 11th of March they ascended Centre Hill, and traced the Oreti and Waiau to the gorges of the snowy mountains, fifty and seventy miles distant. Mr. Howell, an enterprising settler, informed them of a native track between Milford Sound and the head of the Waiau, the same referred to by Hr. Hector. The area of Mount Hamilton to the south, extending over the valleys of the upper Waiau and Oreti, he calculated at 600 square miles, containing much good pasturage.

They now directed their course eastward to the upper

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Mataura, passing the gorges of the Dome, and reaching and ascending the Slate Range, 2000 feet above the valley, which divides the waters of the Clutha from those of the Mataura, and found a comparatively low and undulating region, stretching as far as the Canterbury province, thus ascertaining an extensive available country in the interior. They saw no lakes, but three Maories told them that the great lake Wakatip was not more than five miles higher up the Mataura. The scenery from the top of the Slate Range was truly magnificent, for they had the bold, precipitous, and peaked Eyre mountains opposite to them; while at their feet in the blue distance meandered the silver Mataura, which they could trace from its source in Eyre's Peak, till it lost itself in the deep gorge beneath the Dome. The prospect was quite Alpine, imitating in wildness the valleys of Savoy, but without the cultivated fields and green pastures of the interval. Thence they returned by the Taringtura Downs, and thence to Jacob River Settlement. In this tour Mr. Thomson surveyed extensive tracts of country, indeed he estimated that he had travelled over 1500 miles of difficult country, chiefly on foot, and surveyed by reconnoisance nearly 2,500,000 acres.

About this time Mr. M'Kerrow, District Surveyor, made a survey of the lake districts of the province of Otago.