SECTION 5.--NEW ZEALAND.
[Image of page 158]
SECTION 5.--NEW ZEALAND.
195. New Zealand consists chiefly of three islands, called the North, or E'Ahinomauwe in the native language, Middle Island, or Te Wai Poenenamu, called by Polack Victoria Island, and South or Stewart's Island. North Island and Middle Island are separated from each other by Cook's Straits; and Middle Island from South Island by Foveaux's Straits. Numerous smaller islands are scattered around the shores of the larger islands. They lie in the great Southern or Pacific Ocean in an easterly direction from the south-eastern shores of Australia, from which island-continent they are distant about 1200 miles, but they belong to the same great division of the globe, Australasia. They are about the same distance from the New Hebrides and the Friendly Islands, about 3000 from the Marquesas, 3600 from the Sandwich Islands, about 1800 from South Australia, 5000 from China, and the same distance from Valparaiso on the coast of South America. The New Zealand group lie between the 34th and 48th degrees of south latitude, and the 166th and 179th degrees of east longitude. In fact they are the lands nearest to the antipodes of Great Britain-- Queen Charlotte's sound on the southern shore of Cook's Straits being only 700 miles from the Equator. North Island is about 400 miles long, and varies from 5 to 30 miles in breadth. Middle Island is about 500 miles long, and from 100 to 120 in breadth. South Island is but of small extent, being only about 50 in length, by 30 in breadth. The two larger islands are estimated to contain nearly 95,000 square miles, of which about two-thirds are fit for cultivation. The distance of New Zealand from Great Britain is rather more than to New South Wales, or about 16,000 miles. The line of voyage is the same, round the Cape of Good Hope, and the return is made by Cape Horn. The average time occupied by the voyage out, is 6 months.
[Image of page 159]
196. New Zealand was first discovered in 1642 by Tasman, a Dutch navigator, who, however, did not land, supposing it to form a part of the southern continent. Captain Cook first sailed round the islands, and surveyed their shores with so much accuracy, that his charts are depended upon even to the present day. These islands are evidently of volcanic origin, there being many extinct and a few active volcanoes in the interior. According to Mr Darwin, a naturalist who visited the islands in the ship Beagle, "the soil is volcanic; in several parts we passed over slaggy and vesicular lavas, and the form of a crater could clearly be distinguished in several of the neighbouring hills." Hot springs have also been found, some of which are described as higher than boiling heat, and most of them "of a sufficient temperature to cook any kind of native food. There is one spring of a very remarkable quality; it is to the touch as soft as oil, and, without the use of soap or any alkali except what the water itself contains, will cleanse the dirtiest garments, removing every particle of grease, however sullied they may be with it."
197. These islands exhibit every variety of mountain, hill, dale and valley. The principal chain of mountains runs through a considerable part of the north island and the whole of the middle island. Some of these mountains are as high as 14,000 feet above the level of the sea, their tops being covered with perpetual snow, and their sides with forest-trees and luxuriant ferns. Besides this chain of mountains, there are other subordinate ranges, which for the most part, are covered with vegetation to the top. From their volcanic origin, these mountains are studded with large caves; the diameter of whose openings was ascertained in some cases to be above thirty feet. The mountains are all abrupt, and highly picturesque in appearance, the perpetual snow on the tops forming a fine contrast to the agreeable climate and rich vegetation of the valleys below. "The hill country in New Zealand," says Mr Heaphy, who
[Image of page 160]
assisted in surveying the country, "is at the same time far from being useless; it is always preferred by the natives for their plantations of potatoes and maize, and yields, by hand labour, a good return. Throughout the various parts of New Zealand which I have visited, I have seen but little land, with the exception of the snowy summits, which would not produce the vine and olive, as well as in Italy or Switzerland, all the hills being covered with rich mould, which at present gives root to the loftiest forest trees. Between the mountain ranges the valleys extend parallel with them; and are generally covered with a soil of alluvial deposit, which is productive in the extreme." New Zealand is probably more similar in character to Scotland, than it is to any other European country, being, like it, mountainous, at the same time that it contains much beautiful and fertile level land. The geology of New Zealand is even now but little known; and it is impossible to say whether the country contains valuable minerals or not. Of the existence of precious metals, there have been found but few indications. Copper ore was discovered by Dr Dieffenbach; and, in many parts of the country, the magnetic sand near the sides of rivers, proves that the stream has washed ferreous matter. But these signs cannot be stated as indicative of the existence of those metals in quantity.
198. These mountains give rise to a greater number of streams than appear to exist on the same extent of surface in any other country so near to the tropics, the consequence of which is a perennial vegetation on the most gigantic scale. Several of the rivers are navigable to a considerable extent, and possess waterfalls which afford the means of establishing mills in most parts of the country. From the shape of the islands, and the mountains which intersect them, the rivers do not run to any great length, from 100 to 200 miles being the average. In 1808, the ship Pelorus entered a river in Middle island falling into Cook's Straits, and sailed up nearly forty miles, and her boats continued the navigation for twenty miles farther.
[Image of page 161]
The river Hokianga, in North island, situated almost opposite the Bay of Islands, has been navigated thirty miles by vessels of 500 tons burthen. Another river, the Haritoua, which falls into Port Nicholson, is said to be navigable for nearly 100 miles. Mr Yates says, "the River Thames, the mouth of which lies about a hundred miles from the head of the Bay of Islands, is a splendid run of water, which from Aotea, or Barrier Islands, as far as Kopu, --a native fortification just within the narrows, --is navigable for vessels of 130 tons burthen." The Knowsley river, laid down in recent charts, empties itself into Foveaux's Straits, and is said to be navigable for large ships. Besides these, there are numerous streams which cross and intersect the country in all directions, affording abundant means for irrigation where this is necessary. The waterfalls, as affording mechanical power in all parts of the country, are very important. As specimens, we may refer to the falls of the Kerikeri. "The river rolls over a rock, whose perpendicular height is about ninety feet." "The Waianiwaniwa, a mountain stream, passes swiftly through a deep ravine, for nearly the space of a mile, when it joins another stream, and rolls peaceably on for a few hundred yards: the united streams then fall over another rock about thirty feet high, and then, rushing on to the Kerikeri settlement, the river again falls ten feet, and then mingles with the ocean." "The Wairoa, another stream, though not so considerable, falls at least sixty feet--The Hararu, though not a perpendicular fall, is a greater current of water than the preceding; it is rather a succession of rapids, which is the case with the Hokianga and a great many others. All these are in the northern island, and are described by Mr Yates.
199. It will be apparent, from an inspection of Cook's chart, in which soundings are given, that, for the size of it, no country possesses finer harbours, in greater number, or better situated. "They are now generally known from the vast number of whaling and
[Image of page 162]
other vessels which visit all parts of the coast for timber and flax, and. for supplies of fresh provisions. "Commencing to the northward, the harbour of Wangaroa, lying twenty-five miles to the north-east of the Bay of Islands, is beautiful, romantic, and capacious, --capable of containing the largest fleet, and of obtaining good anchorage, in from five to eleven fathoms, completely sheltered from the sea and all winds." "The Bay of Islands--properly so called from the number of islands with which it is studded --is a remarkably fine and capacious harbour, affording security for an almost unlimited number of vessels, in all weathers, and at all seasons of the year. The value of this harbour is enhanced, from the perfect ease and safety with which vessels are able to enter it." Shouraki Bay, or the Frith of the Thames, affords excellent shelter and anchorage, and is navigable for a considerable distance. The "Bay of Plenty" may be considered an immense roadstead, affording anchorage, to a great extent, for the purpose of shipping produce, -- having also the advantage of several bays and harbours, which afford shelter to small vessels. Proceeding to the south, Poverty Bay--the first place where Cook landed, accompanied by Banks and Solander, on the evening of Sunday, October 8, 1769, a day for ever memorable in the history of these islands--is considered by that great navigator to be a safe anchorage. Hawkes' Bay is capacious, and affords shelter from the prevalent winds. Port Nicholson is thus described by Mr Heaphy-- "On entering Port Nicholson, one is struck with the grandeur of the view. The harbour resembles an inland lake rather than an arm of the sea, and in beauty, certainly far surpasses that of our English lakes. As we worked up to the anchorage, the noble expanse of water, surrounded by a country of the most picturesque character, formed a scene of indescribable beauty; and as the valley of the Hutt river opened to our view, apparently extending far inland until bounded by the snowy range, we wondered that a place which seemed so much to
[Image of page 163]
invite, settlement, had not before been colonized." The bay is about twelve miles long and three broad, perfectly sheltered, and ships may enter or leave with any wind. The depth of water is from seven to eleven fathoms, and the whole bay is described as of sufficient capacity to hold a navy. The River Haritoua falls into this port, the banks of which are high and well wooded. Port Nicholson has the disadvantage of being upon a lee shore; but this objection can only have weight with regard to the navigation of Cook's Straits, not to vessels lying in the port itself. The harbours and bays on the western side of the south island are numerous; but, owing to the prevalence of the westerly winds, have not been much frequented, except that of Hokianga, which, on account of its bar, is only accessible to vessels of light burthen; but from its contiguity to the lake Maupero, abounding in fish, to the Bay of Islands, and to the harbour of Whangaroa, has already become important. The harbours on the middle island are also numerous and excellent. In the southern island, within Cook's Straits, is the fine harbour of Queen Charlotte's Sound, which is nearly thirty miles long. Ship Cove, within this sound, is a very fine harbour, to which European vessels have long repaired, in consequence of its having been described by Captain Cook. The harbour is perfectly sheltered, and the soundings show ten fathoms, a cable's length from the shore. At the north-western extremity of this island is Cloudy Bay, which runs fifteen miles inland, and is about four miles broad. This bay is thought the best station for the black-whale fishery, and, in consequence, several Europeans have already settled on its shores. Besides these two harbours, there are many others in the island, such as Lookers-on Bay, visited by Captain Cook, Port Gore, Blind Bay, Admiralty Bay, and others which have not yet been properly surveyed.
200. New Zealand, from the great length to which it extends north and south, presents considerable variety of climate. From every account, however, it
[Image of page 164]
appears to be highly salubrious, and most favourable for British constitutions. Mr Yates says of its climate-- "Those who come here sickly are soon restored to health; the healthy become robust, and the robust fat. North of the Thames snows are unknown; and frosts are off the ground by nine o'clock in the morning. The country, during six months in the year, is subject to heavy gales from the east and north-east, which generally last for three days, and are accompanied with tremendous falls of rain. These gales usually commence in the east, and gradually haul round to the north-west, where they terminate in a violent gust almost approaching to a hurricane; the clouds then pass away, and the westerly wind blows again with some violence. In the winter season the moon rarely either changes or wanes without raising one of these tempestuous gales; and during the whole year the wind is sure to blow, though it be only for a few hours, from the east, every full and change of the moon. The spring and autumn are delightfully temperate, but subject to showers from the west-southwest. Indeed, however fine the summer may be, we are frequently visited by refreshing rains, which give a peculiar richness to the vegetation and fertility of the land. The prevailing winds are from the southwest and north-west, which, within this range, blow upwards of nine months in the year; more frequently the wind is due west. During five months, sea-breezes set in from either coast, and meet each other half-way across the island."
201. Colonel Wakefield compares the climate to that of the north of Portugal; and another writer, Mr Ward, to "that of the land lying between the south of Portugal and the north of France--pervading but without exceeding the most favoured part of the temperate region; and numerous witnesses, of ample experience, concur in describing the extremes of cold in winter, and heat in summer, as being within peculiarly narrow limits; which is to describe the climate as one of the most equable in the world." Mr Watkins, in
[Image of page 165]
his examination before the Committee of the House of Lords, on being asked if the vicissitudes appeared great as compared with the European climates, said-- "Not anything like our climate. The frost was there at one time, a very gentle frost indeed--the ice was not entirely over a small pool of water: they told me that they saw ice sometimes in the bay the thickness of a shilling, but I did not see any near that thickness. I have slept out frequently in the bush. The fern grows in great abundance. I found myself very comfortable and warm in my greatcoat and a bed of fern, rather than sleeping in the houses, which are very unfit for English people." Augustus Earle says, "Although we were situated in the same latitude as Sydney, we found the climate of New Zealand infinitely superior. Moderate heats and beautifully clear skies succeeded each other every day. We were quite free from those oppressive feverish heats which invariably prevail in the middle of the day at Sydney, and from those hot pestilential winds which are the terror of the inhabitants of New South Wales; nor were we subject to those long droughts, which are often the ruin of the Australian farmer. The temperature here was neither too hot nor too cold, neither too wet nor too dry." Mr Cruise, in his "Ten Months' Residence in New Zealand,"--which period included the whole of the winter season, but neither of the two finest months in the year, namely, January and February, corresponding to July and August with us, and who kept a record of the indications of the thermometer-- informs us that the lowest degree of heat during his residence in the islands, (though he does not inform us at what hour of the day the observations were made,) was 40°, and that only on three days-the highest was 78°; another writer informs us, that the annual range is from 40° to 80°. The climate is not more healthy than it is pleasant. In the summer season, which may be said to last for eight months, the weather is particularly fine, while even then it is never oppressively hot. The thermometer in the
[Image of page 166]
middle of summer ranges between 65° and 75°, rarely exceeding the latter, and in winter seldom falls below 40°. It does not appear that there are any diseases peculiar to the climate of New Zealand: all accounts agree in describing the inhabitants as a robust and healthy-looking people. The climate of New Zealand has a great advantage over that of Australia, in not being subject to the severe droughts which have so often there destroyed the hopes of the farmer. Its insular position, and the great height of its mountains, ensure a constant supply of rain. This circumstance alone gives it a decided superiority over Australia, in an agricultural point of view, rendering it more suitable for the growth of grain.
202. In general, throughout these islands, the soil appears to be excellent, and well adapted for the cultivation of all sorts of grain. "That the soil," says Mr Heaphy, "is pre-eminently of that nature suitable for the production of grain, cannot now be doubted, as the specimens already obtained prove that, with but little attention being paid to its culture, wheat especially will thrive. Wheat grown in the valley of the River Hutt was of the first quality, and has been pronounced excellent by competent judges in England. It was grown on rank ground which had just been cleared, and from being planted in the wrong season, was not expected to turn out well. For some time, it was feared that it would run to stalk, from the great height of the straw; but with the straw between five and six feet in height, the ear was in length as many inches. Oats, also, flourish in Port Nicholson; and may be seen growing wild in many of the deserted potato grounds. Of the other kind of grains I have met with no specimen in Port Nicholson, but I remember having seen before the house of one of the missionaries, in the Hokianga, country a fine field of nearly ripe barley, the state of which was fully satisfactory to the owner. It is certain that before long, New Zealand will supply the Australian colonies with wheat; the climate of New Holland not being adapt-
[Image of page 167]
ed for its culture, in consequence of the excessive drought to which it is liable. The South American States now export grain and flour to Sydney and Van Diemen's Land, but that from New Zealand will, of course, forestall it in the market, through the smaller expense of shipment, and by taking the Australian staple in return." Mr Yates says-- "we have here almost every variety of soil. Large tracts of good land, available for the cultivation of wheat, barley, maize, beans, pease, &c., with extensive valleys of rich alluvial soil, deposited from the hills and mountains, and covered with the richest vegetation, which it supports summer and winter. We have also a deep, rank, vegetable mould, with a stiff marly subsoil, capable of being slaked or pulverized with the ashes of the fern. All English grasses flourish well, but the white clover never seeds; and, where the fern has been destroyed, a strong native grass, something of the nature of the canary grass, grows in its place, and effectually prevents the fern from springing up again. Every diversity of European fruit and vegetable flourishes in New Zealand." Mr Yates then enumerates all the most important productions of Europe which are raised in New Zealand, and adds, "where the rich alluvial valleys are cultivated, the labourer receives an ample harvest as the reward of his labour." Mr Nicholas says "the lands in this country, which are at present overrun with fern, might be brought to produce grasses of every description; were the experiment tried, I doubt not but it would prove invariably successful, and that the islands in general would afford as fine pasturage for sheep and cattle as any part of the known world." The experiment has been successfully tried by the missionaries. Augustus Earle says, "in whatever direction I travelled, the soil appeared to be fat and rich, and also well watered. From every part of it which the natives have cultivated the produce has been immense. Here, where the finest samples of the human race are to be found, the largest and finest timber grows, and every vegetable yet planted
[Image of page 168]
thrives; the introduction of the European grasses, fruits, &c., is a desideratum. Were this done, in a very short time farms would be sought after more eagerly than they are in New South Wales. All the fruits and plants introduced by the missionaries have succeeded wonderfully. Peaches and water-melons were now in full season; the natives brought baskets full of them to my door every day, which they exchanged with us for the merest trifles, such as a fishhook or a button. Indian corn was very abundant, but the natives had no means of grinding it.
203. Mr Earle saw 100 head of fat cattle at a missionary station, and was surprised to find, "that, although they never tasted anything but fern, they gave as good milk, and were in as healthy a condition as when they grazed on the rich grasses of Lincolnshire." Mr Yates says, in another place, "the forest land is peculiarly rich; indeed, were it not so, it would be utterly impossible for it to support the immense vegetation constantly going on. In spring and summer, autumn and winter, there is no visible change in the appearance of the woods; they are as beautiful in the depth of winter as in the height of summer; leaves no sooner fall to the ground than others directly assume their station; no branch withers from its trunk, but another, and a more vigorous one puts out in its stead. The fairest and most tender shrubs shrink not from the southern blast, nor faint beneath the rays of the sun, when he rides highest in the heavens." It may be briefly mentioned here, that "the only animals indigenous to the country are the field-rat and a harmless lizard; there are no snakes, nor any venomous creatures of any description, large or small."
204. The forests of New Zealand abound in timber of gigantic size, peculiarly fitted for naval purposes, and for house building; and from its workable quality much more economically convertible and serviceable than the timber of any other country in the southern hemisphere, most of which from extreme hardness is almost unmanageable. In particular, these forests
[Image of page 169]
afford the finest spars for masts and yards in the world; and the consequence is, that these have now become one of the staple articles of export. It is impossible to enumerate all the varieties of timber with which it is enriched, but a few of them may be mentioned.
205. "The Kauri or yellow pine has hitherto attracted most attention, and will challenge comparison for beauty and tapering height, with any forest-tree known. This tree exudes a large quantity of gum. The trunk grows to the height of from fifty to nearly one hundred feet without a branch protruding. The western coast produces the best timber and largest of the tribe, from the effect of stormy winds, which have a serviceable effect in stopping its hasty growth. The attention of the British government was first called to the value of the timber of the country by Cook; but an attempt to procure a cargo was not made until 1820, when the store-ships, 'Dromedary and Coromandel,' were sent expressly for this purpose from England, and a small vessel, the 'Prince Regent,' from Sydney. It is never regularly applied for in our dock yards. The spars of this timber contracted to be furnished by respectable traders in Hokianga and the river Thames, or Mercury Bay, to the British government, are required to be in length, from seventy-four to eighty-four feet long, from twenty-one to twenty-four inches in diameter, perfectly straight, without the knots caused by branches interfering, and ready squared for stowage on board. The Kahikatea is very similar in outward appearance to the Kauri, for which it has been often mistaken by strangers. The name by which it is distinguished is that of white pine; it is found in forests, but principally in alluvial or swampy soils. The timber is very light in colour and weight, and exceedingly sappy; and the weather produces on the plank of this tree a barometrical effect, for after it has been worked up as inside lining for rooms, for which it is most calculated, it shrinks and gives with every change of weather, even after the lapse of years.
[Image of page 170]
206. "Tanikaha is a very valuable species of pine, and extremely serviceable to the shipwright and general builder. This wood is hard and tough. Unlike the preceding tree, it is less affected by change of season than any other pine in the country; it is seldom seen beyond the height of fifty feet, with a circumference of twelve feet. It is remarkably durable, but suffers much from worms; when exposed to mud or water, and perforated like a honeycomb, yet it retained its pristine hardness. It is in much request for quarterings, stanchions, and exposed flooring, such as for ships' decks, verandas, thrashing-floors, &c. It exudes less gum than others of its tribe, has less sap, and of a darker hue.
207. "Totara is similar in colour to the former wood, and is known as the red pine. It grows to the height of sixty feet, with a circumference often above twenty feet. The timber is brittle, snapping short, and consequently splits well into shingles, and is very serviceable to the builder. This tree is a great favourite among the natives, especially to the southward of the River Thames, who make their canoes principally of the Totara. It flourishes best on the west coast, where it often grows thirty feet in circumference. It is found on the banks of rivers of a size so immense as to give a name to the locality in which perhaps a single tree only is to be found.
208. "The Rata is an invaluable wood to the shipwright. The branches of this tree are twisted in a natural manner, that form, when dressed, excellent timbers and knees for the largest ships. It grows to the height of sixty feet, and the head and branches extend very far; the wood is close grained and stringy, and when polished, of a deep mahogany red--the grain is remarkably handsome, and well fitted for furniture.
209. "The Pohutokaua or Potikawa is the hardiest of timber-trees, and is found jutting out in immense crooked limbs from every nook, however craggy, or exposed rocky headlands on the sea-side, and often
[Image of page 171]
surprises the traveller, that so many cubical feet of heavy timber can be attached to its station, with the extremely scanty proportion of soil around its stem. It is well adapted for ship timbers, is crooked, close grained, brittle, tough, and of a deep brown colour. It is difficult to work up by the joiner, for its extreme hardness, but when polished, forms a beautiful and durable article for furniture.
210. "The Puriri is a wood whose durability equals any of the timbers in the country; it is very tough and close grained, and has been termed the Oak of the Pacific; but the Teak would be more appropriate, as its properties more resemble the latter wood; as similar to that eastern production, it does not lessen in value by lying exposed in salt water; it is equally hard, and of a pale olive colour. This wood has been taken out of a river, where it had been used as a stake to fasten canoes, for perhaps upwards of twenty years, and found to be in no degree affected by the immersion or by worms.
211. "The Rimu is one of the most graceful trees of the country. The wood is tough and brittle; the grain is very beautiful when polished, and will be much admired by future connoisseurs in ornamental woods.
212. "The Kaikatoa is remarkably hard and durable, and through the country is an especial favourite with the natives, who make their spears, paddles, fishing-rods, &c., of this useful timber. It has an oleaginous moisture, scarcely any sap, and similar in colour to our oak.
213. "The Kaikatoa, in the middle island of Victoria, grows often to the height of fifty feet, the temperature being more agreeable to this hardy tree. A very similar wood exists to the southward, called Rohito, of which carved boxes, for holding small trinkets and feathers, are made by the people.
214. "The Hinou is a handsome tree. Its plank is very frangible on exposure to the sun or air. It is in much request by the native tribes, who make use of
[Image of page 172]
the bark for dyeing jet black the threads of the muka or dressed flax, of which they either wholly make, or interweave with, their superior garments. The bark, which is easily pulverized, is kept some time immersed in water, and this infusion forms the dye. The leaves terminate in a point, and in colour are of a deep green.
215. "Towa or Taua, is a useful timber for boarding the interior of houses; and though entirely differing in genus or outward appearance from the Kahikatea, is of a similar shortlived service to that wood. It attains a large size--its branches are irregular-- leaves pointed, and the colour of chrysolite--it cuts easily
216. "Mairi Maidi, is the closest grained and toughest of woods in the country. It is found to grow largest on the west coast, where it attains the height of sixty feet. It is extremely durable, and so very hard as to turn the edge of the tools applied to it. Besides these there is a great variety of other useful and elegant timber throughout the forests."
217. The next great staple of the country is the native or indigenous flax, or Phormium Tenax, which grows in great plenty throughout the country. It is found most abundant in the vicinity of swamps. There is a variety of the species--principally caused by climate and soil--some flax-plants, to the northward, scarcely attaining the height of six feet; others, to the southward, attain the height of sixteen feet. Sir Joseph Banks was the first discoverer of this staple, and says-- "A plant, which, with such advantages, might be applied to so many useful and important purposes, would certainly be a great acquisition to England, where it would probably thrive with very little trouble, as it seems to be hardy, and to affect no particular soil, being found equally in hill and valley, in the driest mould, and the deepest bogs." From the experiments of M. Labillardiere, the strength of the fibre of this plant, as compared with that of the Agave Americana, flax, hemp, and silk, is as follows:--
[Image of page 173]
The fibre of the Agave breaks under a weight of 7
" " " " " Flax " " " " " 11 1/2
" " " " " Phormium " " " " " 23 7-11
" " " " " Silk " " " " " 24
Thus, it appears of all vegetable fibres, the phormium is the strongest. It possesses this advantage over the hemp and flax, that it is of a brilliant whiteness, which gives it a satiny appearance; so that the clothes made of it do not need to be bleached by a tedious process, or through those other means by which flax is injured. Flax is prepared in New Zealand by the females and slaves. Simple as appears the native mode of separating the flax from the leaf by a shell, the European has not succeeded in his endeavours to prepare the fibre for himself, either by that, or any other means that have been tried; nor has any instrument or piece of machinery yet been invented to enable him to strip off and prepare this valuable filament for the English market. The Port Jackson traders must still be dependent on the native women and their shells for the cargoes they obtain. The flax thus obtained by the merchants of Sydney undergoes no heckling, cleaning, or other preparation, previously to its being shipped for the English market; but is merely made into bales, by being put into a press and screwed down. It is subsequently manufactured into every species of cordage, excepting cables, and its superiority of strength to the hemp of the Baltic has been attested both by experiments made at Sydney, and in the Queen's yards at Deptford. The phormium has been in use for many years past, made up into tacks, sheets, braces, stays, &c., and its superiority in bearing a great strain over hemp has been well attested. Were mills erected for the preparation of the flax, as there is abundant water-power to propel them, it would prove an incalculable source of riches to those engaged in its cultivation.
218. The whale fishing is another source of profitable industry for which New Zealand is most eligibly
[Image of page 174]
situated. Even before the British government had taken possession of this colony, the number of shipping engaged in whale-fishing that entered the Bay of Islands annually, was 150. This trade, however, has hitherto been pursued to a great extent by French and American whalers; but as New Zealand becomes colonized, there can be little doubt that it will be prosecuted to a greater extent by the British than has hitherto been done.
219. Various settlers had located themselves around the Bay of Islands, and a missionary station existed there long before the British government formally took possession of the country. At length, in 1840, the attention of government having been called to the value of New Zealand as a British colony, Captain Hobson, R. N. was sent out as lieutenant-governor, and by him Auckland, the capital, was founded. It is situated on the west coast of the North Island, opposite to the Bay of Islands. The other settlements which have been made are Wellington, at Port Nicholson, in Cook's Straits, New Plymouth, at Taranakie, on the west coast, both on North Island, and Nelson, at Blind, or Tasman's Bay, on the Middle Island, at the entrance of Cook's Straits. These settlements, with the exception of the capital, are all within the district belonging to the New Zealand Land Company. The progress of these settlements has been retarded by the unfortunate disputes which have taken place between the settlers and Governor Hobson, and between the New Zealand Land Company and the British government; still, notwithstanding, their progress has been very great, and all that is wanting to render New Zealand one of the most flourishing of the British colonies, is a continued flow of the tide of emigration, especially of emigrants of the labouring class.
220. Up to the end of the year 1840, the New Zealand Company had despatched 19 ships to Wellington, its first and principal settlement, carrying out 341 cabin passengers, and 2061 emigrants of the labouring
[Image of page 175]
class. 1 A ship had also been despatched to the settlement of New Plymouth, 2 with 14 cabin passengers, and 148 labouring emigrants. This settlement is situated in the fertile district of Taranakie, on the west coast of the North Island; and a number of the Wellington people having formed a location in the Waganui district, lower down the coast, there appears no doubt that the progress of the settlement will rapidly spread, so as to embrace the whole line of the western coast, as well as Cook's Straits. This has been materially facilitated by the formation of a road from Wellington to a place called Porirua, whence the country is practicable for the whole distance to Waganui, for cattle.
221. In the early part of the year, the Company determined on forming another settlement, to be called Nelson. A number of persons left England in a body for Nelson, in the autumn, and the total number gone to that settlement is 1736, including 148 cabin passengers. A steady succession of emigrant ships, also, was kept up by the Company during the whole of the year to Wellington and New Plymouth, with 163 cabin passengers, and 2046 labouring emigrants; so that, up to 1842, 43 ships, conveying altogether 667 cabin passengers, and 5843 emigrants of the labouring class, making a total of 6510 persons, have been sent out by the Company to their different settlements; and if we add to this number the immigrants who are said to have arrived from the neighbouring colonies, we can scarcely fix the white population of the Company's settlements at less than 7500.
222. Wellington, the principal settlement formed by the Company, has made rapid progress in prosperity and wealth. Colonel Wakefield, in one of his published despatches, dated the 20th February, 1842, says, --
[Image of page 176]
"Let us now glance at our present state and future prospects. These I cannot but regard as in a high degree satisfactory. It is established, almost without doubt, that the north side of Cook's Straits will be colonized by Englishmen, in immediate connexion with the Company. A considerable number of settlers are already at Wanganui, preparing to select the land which has been surveyed for them with praiseworthy despatch, and which will be open for selection in a few days. Large reinforcements to their number may now be daily expected.
"Proceeding higher up the Straits, we find the foundation of New Plymouth already laid in the vast and fertile district of Taranakie. The surveyor-general of the Plymouth Company, with assistants, is employed in marking out the site of the future city. From Taranakie and Wanganui immense supplies of agricultural produce and of flax will be conveyed to Port Nicholson, and the fisheries on the coast will also become the source of much profitable employment. In anticipation of a large coasting-trade, numerous small vessels are now building in the various harbours and inlets on both sides of the Straits.
"It is impossible to overrate the value of flax as a staple article of commerce; and the only impediment to the introduction of the phormium tenax, into Europe and America, has been removed by the discovery of a cheap method of preparing large quantities for export, in reduced bulk, and without injury to the fibre. A short time only will elapse before our settlement will provide a profitable return-cargo for the foreign vessels visiting Cook's Straits. Already, and before the agricultural resources of the settlement have had time for development, the shipping belonging to Port Nicholson has become worth 5000l.; and this is almost exclusively employed in bringing pigs and potatoes, in return for blankets, guns, and other articles sought after by the natives.
"The houses erected in Wellington have cost at least 18,000l.; and the merchandise and provisions now
[Image of page 177]
in the place may be safely put down at not less than 200,000l. In every direction large stores and private buildings are springing up. Within a few weeks, measures have been in progress for the erection of a large steam saw and flour mill, brought from England by Messrs Hopper, Petre, and Molesworth. A company is formed with sufficient capital to carry on the business; and ships, not full of flax and oil, will be supplied with sawn timber for home consumption, and for the neighbouring colonies of New South Wales and Van Diemen's Land." . . . . .
"My confidence in the success of this settlement, rests in no slight degree on the vigour with which many gentlemen are now employed in raising stock, and in farming operations. Even inferior land has produced some excellent wheat and barley, whilst some of that grown on the banks of the Hutt is the finest I ever saw. The importation of cattle from New South Wales supplies us with the means of increasing the best breeds. " . . . . .
"All that has been said or written of the extraordinary healthiness of this place, has been borne out by experience. I believe that every temperate and well-conducted person in the colony, is entirely free from disease of every description."
223. Previous to Mr Petre's departure for England, the settlers had had under their consideration the best means of cultivating the phormium tenax: a reward bad been offered for the invention of a suitable machine for the preparation of the plant, and a considerable subscription entered into for that object. Mr Petre says,--
"The production which I think is likely to yield a larger profit than any other, and is therefore better calculated to engage the attention of the colonists, is the phormium tenax, or New Zealand flax.
"This plant grows in great abundance in every part of New Zealand. No soil seems to be unsuited to it; but as there are several varieties of this indigenous plant, it yet remains to be ascertained which is the
[Image of page 178]
best species, and on what soils it may be most beneficially grown. Formerly the phormium tenax was extensively cultivated by the natives; but at this time all that is gathered grows spontaneously. The best kinds flourish at Port Nicholson, at that part of the Taranakie district which has been chosen for the New Plymouth settlement, and, it is said, around Hawke's Bay. Taranakie formerly yielded the largest quantity for exportation; but the natives abandoned that part of the country some years since for Port Nicholson, where they occupied the place of the original inhabitants, who emigrated to the Chatham Islands."
