1950 - Chudleigh, E. R. Diary of E. R. Chudleigh 1862-1921 - CHAPTER III. MUSTERING; MT. SOMERS; DROVING, p 66-84

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CHAPTER III

MUSTERING; MT. SOMERS; DROVING.

13th November. I left Longbeach about 9 a. m. and reached Mount Summers between 3 and 4. Mr Cox had gone to Ch.Ch. Mrs Cox and Millet were there. I helped Millet to turn some cattle that were making back to Longbeach. I have ridden over 50 miles and lead a pack-horse over 40 of them. Cox has put up a first rate yard here.

14th. Fine. Left Mount Summers at 11 and reached the Rangitata by two just in front of the house. I did not know the ford. I crossed the river three times before I found the right place it delayed me 2 hours. Before I got the pack over the pony was tumbled over and I was not far off it but my horse is very strong. There were about twelve men looking at me all the time and not one came to shew me the ford. Mrs Acland was at home and glad to see me. Mr comes home tomorrow.

15th. Very hot indeed. I was at the woolshed all the morning looking at the sheep-washing. Mr Acland and R. Cooper came about 1 o'clock with some horses, drove some lambs into the paddoc, went over the yards etc. etc. No George Draper yet and I do not expect him for a week.

16th. Fine. Mr and Mrs Acland and myself read family prayers in the morning and service in the evening. Mr Acland and I took a long walk over the hills, the low ones not more than 2500 ft., the big ones are all over 5000 ft.

17th. Helping Mr Acland at odds and ends in the morning. MacCluchey came by dinner time and branded etc. a lot of young horses. It is very hard work ropeing them. It was a very hot day. The sheep got out of the paddoc and we had some difficulty to head them. They make for the hills as soon as they get out at 6 miles per hour over ground that a horse cannot follow them on.

19th. Fine. Went out on horseback to look for the young horses and then took a mob of 50 cattle 4 miles down the run, passed some beautiful gullies full of trees running down from the tops of the hills to the banks of the Rangitata. The hills rise up to 4 and 5000 ft. Clearing out some of this undergrowth in the bush by the garden made a big fire. Brewed some sugar beer. It looks rather black from the amount of iron from the sides of the tank.

19th. Fine. Put some barm in the beer and hope it may get

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fine. Dug a well in the creak to try and get some water but could not. Washing sheep in the afternoon. The washing is all over. They have washed some 14000 sheep and lambs this week. Lit another fire in the bush.

20th. Fine. Mr A. and myself went to Mr Wilson's [Cracroft] 6 miles down the opposite side of the river which was high and over our knees to know when the shearers come to us which they do tomorrow. We dined at Ben Moorhouse's [Shepherd's Bush] on our way back on a young pig. Clearing out some more of the creak and lit a large fire. I went to the top of a hill over 2000 ft. just behind the house. Browne of the Racia was here to-day and told us that a man and his horse was drowned on Saturday.

21st. Fine. Clearing the bush with Mr A. till 3 p. m. when the shearers came to the other side of the river. The overseer and a sailor went to bring them over in a boat. They all came at once and the boat was so deep that it was unmanageable, it flew down the rapid and striking broadside against fast boulders it stoped and filled with water. One man jumped out before they reached the rapid and just made the land and gave the alarm. 11 men with ropes and poles were soon to their ade and by means of a rope from the boat to a rock on shore they all got off safely though with great difficulty. We fastened 10 bullocks to the end of two ropes and a chain to try and get the boat off the rocks but they all snaped and the boat did not move. It was got off at last by working the bullocks dead up stream above the rapid with a rope high enough to pull the boat in two. It came off with a groan was balled out and then pulled up stream to everyone's astonishment. The water rushed over the bows then. Its timbers were stove in maney places.

22nd. The shearers did nothing but dry their things to-day. All their belongings were under water about one hour. Mr A. and I took a ride through the bush by the river. It was most beautiful Mt Peel rising on our right near 6000 ft. and a swolen milky flow at our feet.

23rd. Fine. Service as usual.

24th. Up before 5. 3 hours in the woolshed before breakfast. My employment was chiefly in packing the woolbales which is very heavy work. You put from 90 to 120 fleeces in a bail which way from 300 to 350 lbs. It is hard to press the wool into so small a compass. We sheared some 850 sheep to-day. We stop work at 7. It is a long day. We hope to finish in a fourteennight and then the great muster begins. There will be some walking to do then.

25th. Very hot all day. In the shed by 5, packing and draft-

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ing all day till seven. I managed to shear 1 sheep to-day. It is not hard work without you keep at it a long time and then it breaks your back for the first few months but you get over that in time. About the same number of sheep were shorne to-day, they do not vary much.

26th. Very hot. As usual in the shed before breakfast and I expect there will be no variation throughout the shearing. We walk up to breakfast and up to tea which is also dinner. We lunch with the men.

27th. Fine. As usual. The fleeces are much larger than the first two days and the lambing much larger than was expected owing to the very severe winter.

28th. Very hot. As usual. John Enys came in the evening. He has been looking at some 10,000 acres which he has taken and he and I are going to fence it and build a hut on it ourselves. That is the present arrangement, we shall see what comes.

29th. Fine. The hills covered with a thick mist. Enys and I walked on Sunday through the bush to the waterfall up the valey Lynn and most beautiful it was, the hills covered with bush to 2000 ft. and at the end a white line of water came down 40 ft., now a small stream but in winter a tremendous river that can be heard at a great distance. Birds of all descriptions.

30th. Fine. Service well attended by the men but no shearers.

1st December. Fine but a very doubtful mist in the morning but it cleared off the plains long enough not to prevent the shearing. I have been packing all day as usual. Enys helped Mrs Acland to paper a room which he did very fairly. A Mr [E. P.] Sealey a shipmate of Mr Aclands on a former voyage came to see him. He is a surveyor and is surveying for government not far from here. He stammers dreadfully and like other stammerers will not be helped.

3rd. Fine. Packing as usual. Mr [Sam] Butler the person Pattisson lives with, came here to-day. He is one of the cleaverest men in N. Z. He is a little man and nearly as dark as a Mouray. And is at present very nearly if not quite an infidlel and yet I believe would not do a dishonourable thing to save his life. He admires a man that sticks to his belief no matter what it is.

4th. Fine in the morning, very hot in the afternoon and a S. W. came up about 7 p. m. just as the men had finished shearing. We packed more wool to-day than any day since we began. Now it has begun to rain it will probably keep on. One fine day would have finished the whole shearing. Butler went back today. It is

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only 20 miles to his run. I must begin my English letter on the first opportunity, I have not any time to do anything.

5th. Showers but not enough to stop the shearing. Packing.

6th. Fine, cold in the morning but very hot in the day. Mr Cox and Miss Harper came to-day from Mount Summers. I began my English letter insomuch that I got some paper. I went to the grave of one Adam Taylor who was drowned August 1857 just in front of the house. He is on a mound of shingle by the side of the river. An iron cross marks his grave. He was the worse for drink though sober at the time he entered the river.

8th. Very fine. Cox left. The shearing all over I was rideing my old horse bare-backed rather fast when he stoped dead and sent his heels in the air and Master Edward too, but as usual he pitched on his legs. I cought him again and the old fellow being sattisfyed behaved well again. Went through the bush again to Ryans. The ride is more magnificent every time. Punting the wool over the river it is rather too high to dray it over.

9th. Fine. Did a little to a great many things. One was to milk some cows, make some crackers, cross-cut and chop some firewood, etc. The thermometer was 32 this morning and about 80 in the shade by 10 a. m. I rote some of my English letter. Read some of Geoff Hamlyn. Mr A. and I had a discussion as to which was the best when starving boiled spiders or roast grubs.

10th. Fine. We all went to the Moorhouses to-day I crossed the river 6 times to-day. Miss Harper and I had a race coming home. Of course she beat much to her delight. I met a Mr Kitson a relation of Ubiquity Kitson and I should say very much like him. Finished my English letter.

11th. Very fine. Had a delightful ride through the bush with Miss Harper and Acland to the Jolies. Miss Cooper was as lively as usual. The situation of this place is most superbe, a noble old bush behind and on one side with the hills rising 4000 ft. The front commands a view of the sea 22 miles in a direct line. You can see ships with the nacked eye on a fine day and a streatch of nearly 100 miles of plain extending from Ch.Ch. to Timaru. Ch.Ch. is 90 miles and Timaru 30 miles, you cannot see either town of course.

12th. Fine. Up at 5 as usual though I have not mentioned it milking cows and feading calves etc.

13th. Mr Acland and I went up the run with some cattle and then on to the gorge of the river. It is a fine sight you see the river flowing down between mountains 3 and 4000 ft., the

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lofty back ranges looking blue and the tops covered with snow. On my left hand a large valley with a large waterfall at the end runing into the river at my feet. I looked at this from a rock about 500 ft. almost perpendicular, it was most grand. I shot four blue duck, 4 pigeons and a caw-caw and a wecka.

15th. Fine. Mr Acland and I went to Smiths on the Orari who has Mr Tryp's run on terms. It is a very fine run and a very pretty place. We then went on to A. R. Cooper's. He has 3 days shearing to finish, if the rain keeps off, a week at Smith's and then here again. There are only 6 men in the mob now. We got home about 7 1/2 p. m. My horse, having no shoes, was very much cut up about the hoofs.

16th. Damp and rain at night. Did nothing in particular in the morning took a run and went halfway up Little Mount Peel. It was very ruff and the snow grass was very wet.

17th. Fine. We, that is Irvine the overseer and Abner the authority on everything, Tim Chapman, a sheep hand, Rowle and Tiffin do, we went on horse back to the out hut 20 miles in the hills which place is to be the starting point tomorrow. Irvine and I went on to Butlers 5 miles up the river where my shipmate Pattisson lives. He was very glad to see me. Butlers house is surrounded by hills 6, 8 and 9000 ft. the tops covered with snow, ver grande sight indeed.

18th. Fine. Irvine and I joined the men at the foot of a hill 7000 ft., the N. W. point of the run 5 miles above the hut. Rawle took the horses back and 5 of us started and in two hours reached the top, Abner first. Every now and then he gave us a spell for about 2 min., no more. We had nothing but our shirts so it would not do to stop. We had several falls of snow during the ascent and two tremendous ones on the top but it did not wet us. We saw snowy ranges all around us. We kept on a jog all day and by seven had reached the hut again with about 40 sheep. It then began to rain buckets from the N. W. which is cold here.

19th. Fine. We started again. Abner and I at the top. The men were drafted off to take several small mobs along the flat. Irvine took the horses. We were to camp ten miles down. Our greatest hight did not exceed 5000 ft. today. Abner does not usually walk but goes at a slow jog; none has ever been able to keep up with him in N. Z. yet. He is an active giant. We went to the Coal Hill and got some specimens. I found 4 remains of the Moa and got my pocket full of the [gizzard] stones and I have three fine bones from Butler. I saw Lake heron and lake tryp.

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20th. Very fine till 9 a. m. when Abner, McCloud, Rawle and myself were about 100 ft. from the top of the Coal Hill which is over 5000 ft. it began to rain hail and snow. We lay down under the stones till it was so cold we were obliged to move. We were on Hill 11 when it began to get rather too bad. Abner and I had nothing but our shirts on. The thunder had been crashing as it seamed in our faces and the new snow falling in a dense cloud. Abner chattered out "Now, boys we must make a run for it" and so we did and in one hour reached the bottom. My trousers were allmost gone from the knees downwards and legs and hands red with blood from the spear grass. Abner had a nasty fall and cut his hand and sprained his wriste. He had it bound up when we came down. He and I were the first down. We had enough of it. I had to ride 6 miles against the storm to get dry things. Rawle had 3 miles and Abner got dry only at the tent. It continued in the hills all day. Enys came here in the afternoon.

21 st. Service as usual. Enys brought my English letters.

22nd. Fine. I was up at 4 1/2, cought my horse and went to the camp but met Abner coming home with a mob so I helped him on with them.

23rd. Abner, Enys and I started early and got to the foot of the Coal Hill. We saw Rawle half way up, he requires a long starte of the other people. It took us 1 hour 20 minutes to get to the top, the winde was very strong and cold and obliged us to keep moving which Abner and I did, we had a tremendous chase after some 100 sheep which, if it had not been for Abner we should not have got. We brought home some 300 in all, it was a very good pale [tally]. It was a very heavy day for Abner and I. The others did not follow up the sheep.

24th. Fine with a little rain. Enys and I went out shooting with a double barreled gun. We had very good sport and brought home as much as we could carry.

25th. Intensely hot. The glass at 84 in the coolest part of the house. Mr Acland, Enys and I took our turn in watching the sheep. We decorated the house with evergreens and large bunches of mistletoe but mistletoe does not grow for Christmas on this side of the world. My first Christmas in N. Z. and second from England. One can not reconsile such a difference in temperature, it is not like Christmas here.

26th. Fine. I had to escort Miss Harper to Mount Summers. We had a very jolly ride, it is not often one can get a lady companion here. I founde on my return that George Draper, Miss

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and Arthur Cooper came up to the door just as we got to the other side of the river, George and I are always just missing each other. I took four of the Duck to Mrs Cox and although they were plucked directly we reached Mount Summers they were quite putrid. Nothing will keep here.

27th. Fine in the morning rain at night S. W. I went to Mr Rowleys [Clent Hills] to make a plan of his new woolshed for Mr Acland.

29th. Very fine. Mr Cox and Miss Harper started for Ch.Ch. driveing and I for Mount Peel. I found the South stream of the Ashburton much discoloured, a bad omen, and on coming to the river found it bank to bank. I saw Mr Acland and Enys on the other side. We made signs to each other. I turned my horse and went back to Mount Summers 42 miles for nothing.

30th. Very hot. Had a bathe with Millett and went over Mount Summers, looked at the cattle and went to the Coal gulley.

31st. As yesterday.

1863.

1st January 1863. 2nd, 3rd, went the round of the cattle, bathed etc. every day with no variation. The weather has been very hot every day.

4th. Left Mount Summers after dinner and reached Mount Peel before tea. The river was just fordable. I was the first that crossed it anywhere since this day week.

5th. Fine. I went to Jollies to see George who came to Mount Summers 20 minutes after I left and so missed me. I found him just going to start for Ch.Ch. He sails on the 15th. I go down to see him off. I then went on to the Orari to get my horse shod and to get the letters.

6th. Fine. Waited till past 6 for the letters and then started. I met the poast 6 miles off. There were no English. Reached Mount Peel about 9, it was very dark coming through the bush.

7th. Cold. Mr and Mrs Peaters [Anama] came here to-day. The river was rather high and we could not bring their horses over. They went back in the evening. We tryed to drive Suplejack back to this side but he would not come.

8th. Very hot. I, and one of the bricklayers started from here at a quarter to six for Dowlings [Buccleugh] some 22 miles to get the mares and foals. I and Dowling had to ride some 12 miles to get them in from the river and then to draft them. I left their yard by 3 1/2 and after some trouble got them all safely over the river. Before 7, my horse turning after a horse to quickly while I

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was going eyes out, fell and rowled oaver but I cleared out of the way. I did not go to grass though I lost my reigns and he galloped off for some yards. He nearly went on his side three times after that, the fact is his fore leggs are too stiff. He is the best stock horse Mr Acland has now though he has been the finest jumper in New Zealand and is still splendid in the river, good at straight runing.

8th. Very hot all day. Working in the creak clearing the shingle in the morning. Had a run after some sheep.

10th. N. W. hard, drafting sheep all day in the most dense cloud of dust I ever saw. A strong dry hot N. W. till about 4 p. m. when it flew over to S. W. We were all so black that we hardly knew each other.

11th. Damp and cold all day. Writing my English letter. In two days I hope to have a fresh diary.

12th. Very hot. I left Mount Peel with Abner about 10 1/2. Crossed the Racia, Rangitata both rather high, the Ashburton nearly dry and the Hynes and Selwyn quite. We reached Gigse's about 9 having spelled the horses 3 hours at the Racia, the distance being a good 60 miles.

13th. Hot. Up at five, went 13 miles to breakfast and 12 more to Ch.Ch. which we reached before 10 a. m. I took some letters to Bishopscorte, posted some more, got a fresh horse and after a farewell dinner started with George, Mellish and Cooper for port which was all alive and some of us had to sleep on the floor, nothing new however.

14th. Fine. Met O'Brian going to the Otago gold fields. He wanted me to go and would have stoped 10 days for me but I am fully engaged for the next 6 weeks or I would have gone. George and Mellish left by the Queen for Melbourne via Dunedin and home by the first ship that suites them. We were all very sorry to part. George has been my best friend in N. Z. Cooper, FitzGerald and I went back to Ch.Ch. by the Sumner road. FitzG. shouted champaign.

15th. Hot. Commissions for myself and others. Went to a concert under the patronage of the Judge Gresson, Madame Carandinis benefit, it was very good. I got my English letters which had been directed to the Post Office. It contained information that I had long been looking for.

16th. Hot. Long talks with F. G. [FitzGerald] about another run but we could not make it out quite. I went to Heywood about my Derwentwater box. He promised me it should be in Ch.Ch.

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by the 14th. I know it is not off the ship yet nor will it be for weeks.

17th. Fine. Left Ch.Ch. with Bob Cooper. I was measured for a coat and waistcoat. The tailor said he had not measured a finer chest for years. We reached the Racia.

18th. Hot. Reached Mount Peel in time for service. It rained very harde just after I arrived.

19th. Took the carriage over the river and to the top of the terrace. Mr Acland and I then drove on to Mt. Summers to fetch Mrs Harper.

20th. Fine. Started with the Bishop and Mrs Harper in the Carr [carriage, i. e., buggy]. A small Harper, Mr Thompson and myself on horseback.

21st. Very hot. I was delayed from starting for Mr Butler till it was too late.

22nd. Rain. Had a longish run after my old horse, had a wet nasty ride to Butlers and lamed my horse. McCloud reached Butler with his wife all right Mrs Mac the first woman on this side of Mt. Peel.

23rd. Fine. Brabisson [Brabazon, Butler's cadet and partner] lent me his horse. Butler and I went about to the neighbouring stations looking for shearers which we found. Slept at Rowley's.

24th. Fine. Came on to Mount Peel, dined at Mt. Summers and settled with Cox. I have been a round of some 80 miles through the mountains, the ground is very bad for rideing. I go to Butlers on the 29th.

25th. Fine. Heard that the Bishop had lost all his horses. Service in the evening.

26th. Hot and windy, commenced starting from Mount Peel at 9 a. m. and reach Mount Summers at about 6 p. m. We dined at Peeter's on our way. Mrs Acland, Harper, old nurse and two kids, young Harper, Mr Acland and myself made up the party. I was on horseback, the others drove.

27th. Fine, windy. Started Mr and Mrs Acland and their belongings in their carriage. Mrs Harper and son in boxers [bowlers, i. e., hats]. I dined at Mount Summers, went on to Craddocks [Hakatere] and slept. Found 4 men on their way to Butlers.

28th. Fine. Strong wind. Left Craddock's early and told the shearers I would let Butler know they were coming. Two were on horseback. I expected to find the river high. It was so. I could see nothing but a sheet of rushing water like the water that comes from Chinahclay works for 1 1/2 miles dotted all about with

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Iselands. I went in to it about eleven. It was past twelve when I got out. I had not to swim but was often near it. I had not gone many yards from the river when I felt my saddle move as I thought in a very strange way. I looked over on the off side to see what it was when to my great astonishment off I went with the saddle between my legs on to the ground. I stuck to the rains but the horse did not move, the cause being that both my girths had burst in the river. I look on this as a very close shave. Butler and Brabisson would hardely credit my haveing crossed. I was very wet. The wind blew the sprey up in clouds. A river in this state looks awfully dreary, you see nothing distinctly for sprey, driving shingle, Hiland [?] the rush of water, the schreaming of gulls and great branches and often trees floating down all ad to the wildeness of the scene.

29th. All the station except the cook, Smith and myself had started last night to begin mustering in good time. We were up by five. I had started by six with a leg of mutton, two loaves, tea, sugar etc. and a bottle of grog fo the men the other side of the river. It was rather high but that was all. It falls here in 6 hours. I saw two horsemen on the other side and made for them. They had been trying to cross but did not like the look of it and were going the worst way of crossing. If their was a wrong place they would take it. I gave them a nip and then started back. We crossed all right. I then took their to horses back for the others. Both the stirups came off one of their saddles in the river and the saddle turned round and remained so till I yarded the horses 16 miles off at Craddocks to which place the others had gone back believing the river quite impassable and that I had gone to some other station on Wednesday. They were very glad to see me, their feet were much plistered and they had had nothing since Wednesday morning. We all had dinner at Craddocks and started again for Butlers. I gave my stirups to the man that had lost his. He said it was as much as he could do to sit on a horse with stirups. He would not attempt it with out. Butlers sultan being a very springey horse I did not feel the loss of stirups. The country is very bad to ride on, creaks and spear grass which make the horses jump about a good deal.

30th. Fine. Commenced shearing at five a. m. I was picking up and rowling the fleeces.

31st. Fine. The same and helping to brand etc. Had a set to with Abner with the gloves for the edification of the natives. We were at it over an hour. Notwithstanding his enormous

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strength he has a beutiful temper and he hits you as softly as possible, a good proof of science. Washed some things.

1st February. Fine. Read a little book called the Rocky iseland.

2nd. Fine. Commenced before 5 a. m. and continued till 7 p. m. The long hours are the worst part of shearing.

3rd. Fine. A gale from the N. W. all day. This is the universal wind during Summer, it often brings rain in the hills. S. W. is the winter wind and very bad it is on the plains though it rarely reaches the hills.

4th. Fine, windy. In the shed by 5 left off at 6.

5th. Windy. Shearing as usual, an awful storm appears to be brewing, the wind is getting up and inky clouds are gathering.

6th. Fine. Very windy. Appearances last night were bad and the hurricane that followed came up to the marke. It blew great guns. It took a deal of the thatch off our house, the shearers house and woolshed. It was so bad that all the shearers turned out and dressed at 1 a. m. Butler could look from his bed through the roof, a large piece being taken clear off. The last puff came with a rush that made everything shake; then came a dead calm with large drops till morning when it began to blow again. Shearing was stoped till after dinner the sheep being wet through the shed.

7th. Very fine. Began at 1/4 to 5 a. m. and finished at 6 p. m.

8th. Very fine. Brabisson, Pattisson and I started after breakfast to walk around a part of Mesopotamia to look at the sheep. I saw some most beautiful and grand seanery. I was on a hill about 1500 ft. above the Rangitata, the sun was very hot, the wind was cool behinde me, the snow toped hills rise 8 and 9 thousand feet on my right and left, their lovely valeys covered with bush that you can follow up till they die away in the blew of the distant mountains whoes tips shoot up into a sky of spotless blew. At my feet there is fine undulating country spotted with small lakes or lagoons and streams. Then comes the Rangitata plain, the river looses its dreariness in the distance and looks fit for any picture. Here downs again come in which very gradually rise into endless snow. I cannot describe the grandeur of the place. I wish I could paint it. I went with Pattisson to the grave of Dr. Sinclair [a botanist] who was drowned crossing the river some years ago.

10th. Rain and wind. Went out about an hour to see where the sheep where. Had some boxing in the evening. The river is more freshed now than it has been for the year.

11th. Windy and showers. I ought to be at Mount Summers tomorrow.

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12th. Blowing a gale. N. W. as usual. My diabolical old Snowball was brought up some nine miles yesterday by Pattisson from where he had been pleased to take the mob and where is the best grass for 30 miles round. I put him in a well-fenced paddoc with another horse but it was no use. This morning he was gone. I took the other horse and had to go 18 miles for him again. It was one before I left Butlers, the river was high the wind higher and blew the sand into my eyes and the sprey made me wet to the skin; the quick-sands were much worse than I ever experienced, the horses fore-legs constantly went in to the girth. I would rather have deep water any day. I took off my socks and the winde soon dryed me all over. I called at Craddocks and had some tea. It was 9 before I reached Mount Summers

13th. Rain S. W. Cox and I were to have gone on an exploring expedition for a couple of days behinde Mount Summers to-day. He wants to secure his boundary by taking in some back country. No one has been there but Abner and he could not give particulars. Mrs Blackstone [C. R. Blakiston] a sister of Mrs Coxes is staying here.

14th. I called Cox at 5.5 a. m. we dressed and got our horses and started before 6, had rather a heavy shower just before we got off. Took blankets and provisions to last us till tomorrow. We breakfasted threequarters of the way up the hill at a place where 3 gulley's join, the perpendicular sides riseing in many places 1000 ft. thinly covered with pines and at the bottom of each a small stream forming a series of small waterfalls. Immediately above us all was snow and mist. After breakfast we pushed on through the snow. It was not more than 1/2 ft. deep but the froazen sleet was so thick that we could not see ten yards. At 12 it got worse so we turned and retracked our steps till we came to a gulley [Little Stour] down which we decided to take our horses. I do not know how we got down, it took us 6 hours to go about 1 mile, the horses were within an inch of their lives all the time. Coxes horse was very badly cut in several places. He lay down often through fear. My old fellow went first all the way and showed his disaprobation by constant and loud snorts but never showed fear. As soon as we got on to the grass we gave the horses an hour's spell and ate some dinner ourselves. We got home by 4 p. m. The hills are still covered with dense clouds. It has been fine below all day.

15th. Fine service in the evening. I have received an invitation to the Timaru Bachelors' Ball but I cannot go. I am going to

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Timaru tomorrow to look through a mob of cattle going to Dunedin that has been detained owing to the mans stealing stray cattle that do not belong to him. Caton is the owner.

16th. Fine, left Mt. Somers about 9, took Hardecastles dog with me. I called at Coopers but he was not at home. Reached Hardecastles by 7 p. m. He has a very pretty place [Castlewood] up the Pleasant Valley. He was not at home so I have to go their again.

17th. Fine. Had some bread and cheese and fed my horse at Youngs, 4s., went on to Parriora where I overhalled Caton and found the one white bullock that I expected. He gave it up at once and helped me to find the brands of all the other cattle but none others belong to Cox. We got that one into the yard with some difficulty it being quite impossible to drive one bullock and to let him out of the yard was to loose him. I was obliged to sell him for 11£ 5s. 0d. I then came back to Timaru. I met [W.] Massey [the future Premier then working at Longbeach] and several other fellows that I knew.

18th. Damp. 7/6 for tea, bed and breakfast, 8/6 for stable, 16/-. Left my teather-rope behind, called at Hardecastles. He was not at home so I went on to Coopers. He was just starting for the house [Peel Forest] so I went on with him and spent a very nice evening, good music. Had an invitation to the Jollie's ball on the 3rd of next month.

19th. Fine. Left Peel Forest after 9 and went harde all day till 9 p. m. Had nothing to eat for 12 hours and only came accross 3 or 4 beasts all the day.

20th. Fine. Galloping about like a madman all day and at last yarded 10 beasts and I know of 6 more. Expenses 13s. 6d.

21st. Fine. Up early and drafted all the other cattle out of mine, breakfasted, started with mine, 10. They went eyes out for more than 10 miles. I reached Mount Somers by 2 p. m. An old cow stuck me up about a mile from the stockyard for the 3rd time so I went in to get the dogs and Millett came with me. The dogs brought her on well for some time. Millett and I worked our whips well on her. When she rushed one, the other stock-whipped her. Millett did not get out of the way quick enough so she gave his horse two prodds. He fell off and before I could get between them the cow rushed him and rowled him over and over on the ground. I rode at her and nocked her on to her knees. She then turned on me but thanks to my good horse she got more cuts than ha'pense. Millett had time to run to the house. He was bruised

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in many places. We yarded them afterwards and branded 1, K star OX. Expenses for the two days 1£ 13s. 0d.

22nd. I brought in the horses for Millett and found that my horse had burst his hobble and hurt his nr. fore-leg. So I put a poultis on it and turned him out again.

23rd. I backed the little flash horse again and was going on at a careless canter when he stoped, threw down his head and gave 3 bucks when I came off and draged the bridle off with me. Millett drove him into the stockyard and I mounted him again with success. Had some boxing in the evening.

24th. Misty. I walked the pettryfyed gulley or putrefaction gulley as it is called here but I saw nothing but lygnite. I got very whet the grass being 3 ft. high.

25th. Variable. Got in a young cow and killed her.

26th. Cox came home and brought some of my English letters.

27th. Very hot. I started early for Ch.Ch. went 60 miles and stopt at Weadons.

28th. Racing about the town all day. Opened my box of Omnium gatherums from home and found it full of Mothers Notions. No one else could have thought of so many things dear old creature. It rained harde in the morning.

1st March. Very fine. Went to Church. I dined at Judge Gresson's and met Chief Justice Sir George Arney a very nice person. I spent the evening with Enys at the Club.

2nd. Fine. Breakfasted at the Packes. Did all I had to do. Left town and reached the Racia. I have 60£ 0s. 0d. in the Union Bank this day.

3rd. Fine. Breakfasted with Mrs Lance at the Racia. She is the wife of one of the largest run-holders in the province and is one of the handsomest women. Crossed the river which was high, reached Mount Somers by 4 p. m. It began to rain as I got here. It was too hot to live in the morning. I passed hundreds of sheep lying on the ground gasping from the heat. I was crawling along the country on all sides black as coal from a fire. The grass from want of rain has not sprung through though the fire was months agow. The country here is a mass of small stones, you cannot see any earth at all. Often this is the best sheep country. Everything quivered like the top of a lime kiln when all at once I had a box on the ear. Looking N. W. it was like a blast from a furnice. I knew a S. W. was coming. In an instant I had a puff in my face, another in the back each of which nearly took my cap and then a

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bucket of snow in my S. W. ear. It then blew a stiff cool S. W. which soon became mist and then rain.

4th. Fine. Looking over the cattle for Cox. He and Millett are away looking for cattle. They come back tonight.

5th. Left Mount Somers. I had my own [horse], the two men Lazy lot between them. We reached Marshall's this night. The river was high so we crossed in the punt. We had two dogs Jack and Fan whoes pup we carried the whole way to make her follow. Received 21£ 0s. 0d.

6th. Fine. Expenses Marshalls 1£ 7s. do Stranks 7/- = 1£ 14s. 0d. Reached Youngs early from having one man taken 12 miles in the mail-cart.

7th. Expenses. Youngs 1£ 6s. od. Timaru Le Cren 2£ 16s. 5d. for registration of 3 dogs 1£ 10s. od. = 5£ 16s. 5d.

7th. Reached Parriora. I have been unwell all day but am better now. Cox passed us and brought on the old shepherd. Hot day.

8th. Very hot. Expenses J. Fitch Parriora 1£ 12s. 6d. Reached Thompson's on the Mar [Makikihi], It [Otaio] is a nice place an old Aunt was the only person home when I came. She received me very hostpitably.

9th. Fine. Went to Studholmes [Waimate] to help Cox home with the rams but they have not been drafted yet, so I had 30 miles for nothing.

10th. Fine. Drafting. We took out 200 Wethers and 358 Ewes.

11th. Fine. Finished drafting all to 18 sheep.

12th. Fine. Received 9£ 0s. 0d. Finished drafting and branding. Old Peter came with the Rams in the afternoon and on counting them I found he had lost 26 out of 101. These are prize rams worth I do not know how much so I had to go and look for them. I found two which I brought to Jones' yard and told the old ass to meet me at Parriora tomorrow. He has been an everlasting trouble to me as yet.

13th. Rain. Started with the sheep and reached Parriora in good time. Sold a Wether to Fitch for 1£ 12s. Expenses 1£ 12s. yard 5/- glasses 2/-. Advanced Ren 1£ 0s. 0d. = 2£ 19s. od.

14th. Dull. Left Pariora between 5 and 6, reached the Washdyke in good time. I was with the sheep till 8 p. m. when they camped and I turned into the tent till 1 when my watch began. The daylight came at 5 then Tom and I started with the sheep, the other two to follow at which they took their time. We reached

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the end of ower journey before they overtook us. I have now reached Sunday (15th) a fine day. We tailed the sheep all day and yarded them at night. Expenses Saturday 8/-, gave Pete on the 12th 1£ to pay his expenses at Jone's, Young's 2£ 3 0 = 3£ 11/0d.

16th. Fine. Made an early start and yarded the sheep at night at Shank's. Expenses breakfast 8/- Shancks 1£ 13 6d. = 2£ 1s. 6d.

17th. Dull. Made a good starte, reached Coopers early where we stayed all day. Adam Irvine comes to help us over the river tomorrow.

18th. Fine. An alarm that some sheep were missing so I sent two men on to Marshalls with the mob. Cooper, one man and myself looked through his Coopers sheep and McDonald's and found none. I went on to Marshall's and Adam Irvine and I counted them and found them to be more than enough. I slept at Mr Jollies.

19th. Rain. Working the whole day lifting sheep into the boat. Got them all over the river Rangitata but 250. I hope to get these over by tomorrow.

20th. Rain. I had to put on the same whet things I had on yesterday, had to ford several streams that came over my saddle after sheep and to punt the remainder of the sheep over which I did by twelve. It is very trying working up to your waste in water for eight hours at a streatch. Expenses 6£ 18s. 6d., 5/- = 7£ 3s. 6d.

21st. Mist in the morning, very hot all the rest of the day. Reached Peter's [Anama] out station where we camped. Tom and I watched from 8 p. m. till 1 in the morning. The other two turned out then till 5 when we had breakfast and started in a thick mist. It rained all night.

22nd. Misty in the morning and soon thickened into rain. We reached the Ashburton by 10 a. m. I carried two sheep over the river on my back. The water was rather high. I was rushing up and down in water from 1 to 3 ft. for 3 hours before I could get the sheep to cross, a cold N. W. all the time with rain. I got to Mt. Somers at 3 when my troubles were over.

23rd. Ear marking and branding all the day. Very windy otherwise fine.

24th. Fine, windy. Squared accounts with Cox. Finde them to be 9/- in my favour. He is to pay me 10£ for the job. I am

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going to look for cattle for him at 10/- per head. My expenses and horse paid till it is time to fetch the other sheep.

25th. Fine. Made a stool to put a large flower pot on.

26th. Fine. Went to look through a mob of cattle on McLean's run but I found nothing. I then went on to Moorhouse's and found one of Hardecastle's pet cows with Moorhouse's brand on her. This is a very serious offence and I expect there will be a row about it. Cox Dr. to me 11/-.

27th. Returned to Mt. S. Edward and Miss Cooper stayed here tonight on their way from Mellishes to Peel Forest.

28th. I went to [J. T.] Fords [Westerfield] to take delivery of 1000 sheep for Cox but they were not quite ready so I came back again. Hot misty day.

29th. Fine. Service in the evening as usual.

30th. Fine. Cox and I went to Ford's and took delivery of 1050 sheep. We ear-marked and branded them all and it took us all day. There is a great scarcity of water here. One well that will not give more than one bucket of water in 1/2 hr. has to supply two houses and about 12 horses and cows. When this fails they will have to go 4 miles to the nearest water.

31st. Very hot. We started with the sheep but could not prevail on them to go two miles per hour. We at last however with the assistance of the shepherd and Millett who met us at the river, got them over. Being on Cox's run we left them then to the old shepherd.

1st April. Very hot. Had all the sheep yarded and Cox and I counted them and found them to be 2310.

2nd. Hot. Cox and I started to look for cattle. I had a round of about 40 miles and got nothing for my trouble. Slept at Turton's. There were over 50 people in the house this night.

3rd. A roaring N. W. all the day with deluges of rain in the hills. The rivers ought to be bank and bank tomorrow. Cox and I crossed the Racia and went up and down the Iselands but found nothing. Went on to Bridges [Homebrook] and through his cattle. We found one and we think 3 others. We reached Gigses about 7 p. m. having been near 60 miles. I met Bob Cooper coming back from town, finding the country he, and I may say we, wanted to take up on the west coast useless and the place we were going to look at we find another party from Melbourne have forestalled us and Haast the Gov. Geologist who has just discovered a large river at the latter place says he thinks there is a large tract of country there, so, by being just too late we have probably lost an opportun-

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ity of doing something for ourselves the goodness of which remains to be proved.

4th. Began to rain about 8 a. m. and rained very harde till 12 and sharpe showers continued to fall till 4 p. m. I got very whet notwithstanding I had my waterproof on. I got no satisfactory accounts about the cattle, rather on the contrirarary. I found George Harper was not at home [Malvern Hills] so I went on to Deanses [Homebush] and slept there.

5th. Dull in the morning but cleared off to a fine day. Left Deanses after dinner and went on 10 miles to Whites Accommodation House [on the Selwyn] where I found Mrs White teaching her children Scripture History and reading the Bible to them. This is the first time I have seen children receiving religious instruction in N. Z. I did not expect to find it in an A. C. house.

6th. Very harde rain all day. Left White's early. Made several enquires about cattle but it rained too harde to do anything so I went on to Ch.Ch. twenty-five miles the rain on my face.

7th. Rain. Got my English letters and answered them. I finde I have left my keys at Mt. Somers.

8th. Fine. The Springs Estate was put up for sale. There was not a bidder. Everyone was afraid to bid the place was expected to go so high.

9th. Fine. N. W. Went to Mr Bridges [Southbridge] to see about some cattle. Poor Tatters, the horse I was riding was nearly shut up before I got there. F went some 50 miles on him to-day. I got some satisfactory information but I doubt if we shall ever get half of the lost ones.

10th. It took me 5 hours to go 25 miles which distance brought me to Mr Harman's [Harman and Davie, L. Ellesmere] where I got a fresh horse and reached Ch.Ch. about 9 p. m. having got 8 more cattle.

11th. Fine. Looking for Cox all the morning, dined and had tea at the Bishops.

12th. Fine. Went to Church at St. Andrew's.

13th. Fine. Went to the Waimacriri islands and on to Capt. Rowes but I did not find any. I had the pleasure of seeing the charming Miss Rowe the blackeyed Minnie.

14th. Cox and I started from Ch.Ch. and reached Weedon's. I have bought another mare for 34£. She is just broken in, a very nice little thing. I have three horses now all very good.

15th. Fine. Went through the Springs and call at McDonald's and Washbourn. Settled with them about the cattle found on

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their runs and reached the Racia to look through some cattle at the Gorge. Cox went on to Mt. Somers. I got very wet crossing the river. The water came over my saddle in two streams. My little mare was as cool as she could be and resisted the water better than I could have expected but nothing can equal old Grim. I reached Allen's [manager Mt. Hutt] just as it began to rain.

17th. Rain all day so I did not go on.

18th. Snow all last night and the coldest of S. W. in my face. I started about 9 and had a very cold 28 miles before I reached Mt. Somers. I found Capt. Hammilton there, the man I was staying with in Otago.

19th. Fine. We had a sad misfortune here last night. Mrs Campbell the wife of one of the men here after being confined of a fine boy died seven hours after without any apparent cause. Her mother an experienced nurse was with her. She was quite well till within half an hour of her death when her life seams to have glided away. It has thrown a gloom over ower small community.

20th. Fine. We tryed three places before we could get a fit place for Mrs Campell grave and had great difficulty in making the coffin from not having proper wood. Mr H. Harper has been sent for but we do not think he can come in time, a corpse ought not to be kept more than three days here.

21st. Fine. I left Mt. Somers for Mt. Peel. The Acland's have not yet come up, they are expected tomorrow.

22nd. Fine. Went on to Cooper's, Peel Forest Station. A. was unfortunately at the House so I had to retrace 8 miles of my journey, it will be a lesson to me for not calling when I passed this morning, the whole family where there except for Mrs Mellish.

23rd. Dull. Went 16 miles sharpe to catch the mail which I did owing to its being 1 hour late. Mr Jollie and Cooper came on after me, the old gentleman went on to Timaru. Cooper and I had ower horses shod and went back to Peel Forest. It rained harde all the afternoon. Miss Cooper always gives me some good music of an evening a thing not to be got every day of the week.

24th. Damp and cold. Stayed at the House till the afternoon when Bob and I went to the Station. We met Mr Jollie returning with a bad cold.

25th. Fine. We went over the run, saw the men at the new fence and went back to the house.

26th. Fine. Mr Jollie red service in the evening, a thing he does not commonly get credit for.