1845 - Martin, S. M. New Zealand: in a Series of Letters - LETTER III

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LETTER III.

SYDNEY, 1839.

Having returned from New Zealand sooner than I expected, I had no opportunity of again writing to you before sailing for this place, where I arrived a few days ago.

In my last, I informed you of my intention of visiting the River Thames. That intention I was enabled to carry into effect by means of a small 20-ton coasting vessel, in which I and my fellow-travellers took a passage. There is no overland communication between the Bay of Islands and the Thames--not even a native track, and, from the general character of the country, I should suppose it to be very difficult to travel overland.

Besides my friends and myself, the Thames packet carried several other passengers, in the shape of natives and native dealers; and as the cabin could only afford room for four of us, the hold of the vessel was fitted up for general accommodation. Having been recently occupied by passengers of a different description, in the shape of

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pigs, &c--the conveyance of which to the Bay of Islands is the chief support of the packet, ---you may imagine that our situation was not altogether the most comfortable; and, to make matters still worse, our commander was drunk from the time we came aboard his vessel until the supply of rum was finished. It is astonishing how property should be entrusted to such people: but I imagine it would be difficult, in the present state of the country, to procure the services of steady and sober men. Our commander, even when drunk, seemed to have a good idea of what he was about; and although he could do little himself, his orders were given with judgment, and implicitly obeyed by his crew.

We had rather heavy weather during the first day, and had to take shelter for the night under an island off the coast, about sixty or seventy miles to the southward of the Bay of Islands. The next day we made another island, in the frith of the Thames, called Waiheki, where we landed some of our passengers and anchored for the night.

Our fare aboard-ship being nothing but pork and potatoes, boiled together in the same pot, and eaten off the top of the companion, we were glad to avail ourselves of an invitation from one of the passengers to dine at his house. This person, like most of the European settlers, is married to a native woman, and has a large and fine-looking family. Having seen so much of New Zealand hospitality already, I felt rather surprised at the manifestation of it by such a person; but before the evening was over, I discovered that it was not so disinterested as I thought. Our host, after feeding us with good ham, eggs, and potatoes, commenced the manufacture of what is called egg-flip, a species of drink in common use among Europeans in this country. On the present occasion it was manufactured by

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NEW ZEALAND.

heating some very bad Cape wine, and mixing it well with beaten eggs. Several bottles of the most detestable Cape wine were in this manner consumed by our party, for every one of which, when the feast was over, our worthy host made his guests pay at the rate of 6s. Such hospitality is certain to pay in any country.

Next day we resumed our voyage, and arrived at Coromandel Harbour, a place about thirty miles from the head of the frith or commencement of the valley of the Thames. There we found one or two Sydney friends, living at the house of Mr. Webster, one of the principal settlers and traders in the place. At Mr. Webster's house we also took up our quarters. With the appearance of one of our friends I was very much amused. Having seen him shortly before at one of the Sydney hotels dressed with the utmost precision and neatness, I did not know him at first when I met him at Coromandel Harbour rigged out in a sailor's red jacket; so much do taste and fashion change with circumstances and place. The person I refer to is a man of fortune; but he appears, for a time at least, to prefer the semicivilised life of New Zealand, to the station which his fortune and connexions would entitle him to in England.

The appearance of the coast from the Bay of Islands to the frith of the Thames is rather uninviting, presenting nothing but a series of wooded hills and dark projecting rocks. Towards the entrance of the Thames the land, however, becomes gradually lower and more level; but not having landed on the main-land, I can say nothing as to its fertility. The frith of the Thames is exceedingly like that of the Clyde, only it is more studded with islands, which abound in kauri and other valuable timber.

Coromandel Harbour is situated on the east side of the frith, and is merely valuable as a timber station and depot

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for the collection of the produce of the natives, which is thence shipped for the Bay of Islands. There is a considerable number of Europeans living around the harbour, finding employment either as traders in timber, dealers in native produce, or sawyers. Mr. Webster is at present the most extensive trader in that part of the country, with the exception perhaps of Mr. Gordon Brown, who now lives at Mercury Bay, and who is in a great measure entitled to the credit of having established the timber trade of New Zealand. Mr. Webster and all the other traders were formerly in the employment of Mr. Brown, who has shipped several cargoes of kauri spars to England, having had a contract at one time for the supply of the navy. In consequence of some losses sustained through that contract, he is somewhat embarrassed, and his former servants appear to have risen on the ruins of his fortune. Mr. Webster has rather an extensive establishment at Coromandel Harbour, but whether a profitable one or not I could scarcely say; though I certainly should feel inclined to suppose it was not, from the idleness and irregularity of his workmen, who are so much masters of their own movements, that they merely work when they feel disposed, which is, generally speaking, not more than two days in the week, the other five being devoted to drinking and quarrelling. All these men, of whom there are at least twenty at the establishment, have entered into alliances with the natives by marrying their women. These marriages are generally regarded as binding and valid so long as the parties remain in the country, although they are not always solemnised by a clergyman. I am not aware that marriage has ever been regarded by the natives as a religious contract, although there are, by all accounts, few people who more sacredly and rigidly insist upon conjugal fidelity. Mar-

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riages take place between European settlers and native women both as a matter of policy, and because there are as yet few European women in the country. A chief who gives away his daughter or relative to a European, looks upon himself, in consequence, as being bound to afford protection to the person and property of that European, and to assist him in every possible manner in carrying out his views, whatever they may happen to be. The inferior grade of Europeans, such as sawyers and sailors, generally aspire to nothing higher than the daughters of freemen, or even slave women.

The district of Waikato stands, by all accounts, much in the same relationship to the European settlements that Circassia does to Constantinople. I do not apprehend the ladies of Waikato are finer than those of other parts of New Zealand; but it is the most densely-peopled district, and therefore affords a greater selection.

The New Zealand women are not by any means handsome. In personal appearance they are decidedly inferior to the men. Some of them are, however, rather delicately formed. They have fine dark expressive eyes; but they disfigure their faces by tatooing. Many of them have very beautiful and delicate hands; but their feet are clumsy and ill-shaped: perhaps the constant habit of going about without shoes may produce that effect. As a people, the New Zealanders are remarkable for coarseness of bone and limb.

The Euronesians, or half-caste children, do not appear to be very numerous. They are in every respect a decided improvement as far as the aboriginal, and in many cases the European stock, is concerned. How far an amalgamation of the two races may take place, it is difficult to say. Such a circumstance will depend much upon the manner

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in which the country is settled by Europeans. If emigration go on slowly, it is more likely to ensue. If, on the other hand, the country be occupied by large bodies of Europeans, the two races will in all probability remain distinct, if the one do not, as in most other countries, altogether disappear, and give place to the other.

The missionaries, perhaps justly, complain of the immorality of the Europeans, and its evil effects upon the native population. It must indeed be acknowledged that social morality is still rather low in New Zealand. From the character of both races, it could scarcely be expected to be otherwise. The customs of the natives do not recognise its existence, or enjoin its practice; and the Europeans are, generally speaking, persons who under the most favourable circumstances would not be very remarkable for propriety of conduct. In a country like New Zealand, the ordinary checks of society are completely removed; it therefore requires more than an average amount of principle and moral feeling to prevent a person from falling into the errors of those around him. Where there is neither law nor example to appeal to, crime will meet with no condemnation, and, as a matter of course, will cease to be regarded as such, or even to be known by the name. It is however to be hoped, both on account of the natives, as well as the Europeans themselves, that a higher tone of morality will ere long be established both by the efforts of the missionaries, as well as by the gradual introduction of a better class of our countrymen. It is a remarkable and a lamentable fact, that, almost always, the vices and the crimes of civilised countries are the first presents which we make to the inhabitants of barbarous countries. Before the missionary and the minister of religion and morality can set their feet upon the shore, the seeds of European crime are already

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planted, and in most cases bearing fruit. The same has doubtless been the case in New Zealand; and however long the missionaries have been established in the country, and however great their exertions and useful their labours may have been, it is still a struggle and a contest as to whether European vice or European morality shall in the end prevail. While the natives appear to have a peculiar aptitude for the acquisition of knowledge, their present apparent self-interest and their excessive covetousness lead them to yield to the temptations held out to them by unprincipled traders and abandoned sawyers.

The immorality of the New Zealand settlers, sawyers, and natives, has almost diverted me from the object with which I commenced this letter--that of giving you an account of my journey to the River Thames. To resume, then, I must inform you that the sea is the great high road--indeed, the footpath--in New Zealand; and the schooner, the whale-boat, and the canoe, are the omnibus, the cab, and the walking-stick. Having a journey of some length to perform, where safety as well as expedition were of some importance, I made choice of a whale-boat, in which, after a few days' delay at Coromandel Harbour, I started, in company with Mr. M------and Mr. A------: the latter is concerned in some land and mercantile speculations with Mr. Webster, and both were as anxious as myself to visit and to explore the valley and the great plain of the Thames.

Our crew consisted of four natives, and our water and provision were put in for at least two days. We started with a fair wind, which was lost in a calm before we had fairly left the harbour, and the natives being rather inexperienced boatmen, it took us the evening of the second day to arrive at a native settlement called Coweranga, distant about

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three or four miles from the entrance of the Thames. The coast from Coromandel Harbour to Coweranga is bold, rugged, and woody, but by no means interesting. There are very numerous native settlements; but the land is not available for agriculture. The natives generally cultivate the sides of small valleys which intersect the hills. The general outline of the country is wild and mountainous; but it is said to abound in kauri and other valuable timber.

Opposite to Coweranga there are several extensive banks, which are formed by depositions of mud from the River Thames. On one of these banks we grounded, and were rather unpleasantly detained for several hours, until the flow of tide enabled us to enter a creek which brought us to the settlement, in which there are two European traders, in whose house we resided while we remained at the Pah.

Coweranga is a settlement of considerable importance, said at times to contain a population of a thousand natives. It covers a large extent of ground, and is defended by two wooden walls erected with much labour. The distance between the walls is just sufficient to permit a man to walk with freedom. The walls are constructed of heavy posts of wood, about ten feet high, let deeply into the ground upon their ends, and fastened on the top by means of strong vines to long transverse beams. At certain intervals, and in particular on each side of the gates, the posts are somewhat higher, and carved on the top so as to exhibit the human figure in distorted and very indelicate forms. Judging by these specimens, the fine arts have made but small progress among the New Zealanders. The taste of the aborigines appears to delight in the manifestation of the most ludicrous, indelicate, and disgusting representations of the human form. The interior of the Pah is divided into various compartments, which are slightly fenced

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in, and occupied by the houses and storehouses of the various petty chiefs, their families, slaves, and pigs. Various narrow lanes afford the means of communication from one part to another. The division of the head chief is the largest; and before his house, which is the best and most ornamented in the settlement, there is an extensive yard, where all the inhabitants assemble on solemn days and great occasions.

A schism has been lately created in the settlement, in consequence of one half of the inhabitants having become missionaries, or made a profession of Christianity. It is now a house divided against itself; and as light and darkness cannot exist together, so the missionary natives have determined to abandon Coweranga to the heathen party, and they are now erecting another Pah about two miles distant from the old one.

Our hosts, Billy Tyson and Billy Mow Mow, as they are called by the natives, occupy the same house--a native structure of considerable size, and finished in the best style of native architecture. It has a large central hall about thirty feet long, with several apartments on the sides. In the centre of this hall is the fire-place; there is no chimney, and the smoke is at times rather disagreeable. As our hosts are seldom troubled with visitors, this room is generally filled with the products of their trade, such as baskets of maize and potatoes: in front of the house there is a portico very neatly lined with native reeds, with a room on each side, in one of which I slept during my sojourn at Coweranga. The house is altogether one of the largest and best native structures I have seen in New Zealand. Billy Tyson and Billy Mow Mow have established themselves in the settlement, and secured the friendship and protection of the natives by conforming to the usual cus-

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torn of selecting each a wife from among the young women of the tribe. They have in this manner not only obtained the services of industrious and faithful housekeepers, but they have also succeeded in obtaining all the benefits arising from the purchase of the produce of the settlement and the supply of the natives, both of which appear to be exclusively in their hands. Like most of the New Zealand traders, I fear they are neither very circumspect in their own conduct, nor in the character of their establishments, even though in the neighbourhood of a Church Missionary station. A person might have expected that the vicinity of a missionary would have been felt as some check, but in the present case it seemed to have little or no influence; in fact, Coweranga is remarkable as being perhaps the most immoral native settlement in the country. Of this unhappy fact, and the low and depraved condition of the natives, I had convincing proof during my stay at the place.

The Church Missionary station of Houraki being within a short distance of the Pah, and having heard from some of the natives that Mr. Preice, the missionary, had informed them that I and my friends were Roman Catholics, to whom he advised them not to sell their lands, I determined upon paying a visit to that gentleman, with a view of ascertaining what his object or motive could have been in thus deceiving the natives and prejudicing them against persons whom he had never seen, and of whose religious sentiments he could have known nothing. I accordingly, about twelve o'clock the following day, walked to the Mission-house, which is situated on a rising ground above the Pah, and commands a very extensive view of the islands and frith of the Thames. Mr. Preice was at home, and I was rather surprised to find that he was glad to see me. After a little conversation, I discovered that he had been induced

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to represent us to the natives in the manner we had heard because of a disreputable character at Coromandel Harbour, who had told him that we were his countrymen and Roman Catholics--a religion which he professed himself, although his general conduct would go far to prove that he had none. A report of the difference between our conduct at the Pah and that of most of the Europeans who visited the same place had also, through the natives, reached the missionary, (for the natives conceal nothing from him,) and that circumstance had most likely some effect in changing his feelings towards me. At all events, he was so well disposed and friendly, that he not only invited me to wait dinner, which I did, but he also promised to assist myself and my friends in the purchase of land from the natives if we should have any desire to do so. He strongly recommended the valley of the Thames as being the finest agricultural land in the country.

Rain and rough weather detained us for some days at Coweranga. When the weather became moderate, we engaged the services of Billy Mow Mow (or Billy the Destroyer, as he is called by the natives, on account of some extravagance or other) to act as our interpreter, and with him, and a chief who followed us from Coromandel Harbour for the purpose of selling his land to us, we proceeded to explore the famed valley of the Thames. On that excursion we were absent about seven days, and were in every respect highly pleased with the fertility of the Thames and the appearance of the country. We only regretted that in consequence of an old feud between the Thames natives and those of Waikato, we could not prevail upon our boatmen to proceed far enough up the river, being afraid of falling into the hands of their enemies, if they ventured too near their territory.

The Thames is a splendid river, somewhat like the

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Clyde, but containing a larger body of water, and in its natural state affording greater facilities for navigation. Its entrance is deep enough to admit vessels of two and three hundred tons;. and vessels of a smaller draught of water could be brought a distance of at least sixty or seventy miles from its entrance. The banks on each side are beautifully wooded; but the forests do not in depth exceed a mile or two at the utmost. The rest of the plain is open and free from timber, with the exception of some clumps of wood here and there. The soil of the greater part of the valley is a diluvial deposit of clay and earth, with a layer of vegetable mould on the top, which seems admirably adapted for the growth of wheat. The valley of the Thames is altogether the most extensive tract of level available land I have seen in New Zealand. It is bounded on the east and west by high ranges of hills, varying from twenty to forty miles in distance from one another. The valley is said to extend upwards of a hundred miles in length. The River Thames and its numerous tributaries carry off the water on the east side, and the Piaco, a river nearly as long, but not affording the same facilities for navigation, drains the west side of the extensive plain. The portion of land in the centre, bounded by the two rivers, is in some parts rather wet, in consequence of its being so very level, and because of the rank and decaying vegetation stopping up the natural drains.

The lands belonging to the native chief who accompanied us in the boat are situated on the east bank of the Thames, and on one of its tributaries which runs through a very beautiful valley. A great portion of it has been formerly in cultivation, but the river has been years ago abandoned, the majority of the inhabitants having been destroyed by the celebrated chief Honghi from the Bay of Islands, who,

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after a visit to England, acquired so much of the habits and customs of civilised men, as to become acquainted with the use of fire-arms, and to generate in him the desire of being a great man like King George, which he sought to accomplish by making war upon and nearly exterminating his countrymen. After his visit to the Thames, the surviving natives betook themselves to the sea-coast, where they have ever since resided. If they, however, succeeded in getting one or two Europeans to settle among them, they would again come back to their old lands, which they still prefer to any other.

It is difficult to know what value the natives attach to their lands. They can seldom, if ever, make up their minds what to ask for them. But it is generally understood, when they consent to sell, that they are likely to be satisfied with a reasonable payment, which is always made in European goods and manufactures, such as guns, muskets, blankets, prints, calicoes, iron pots, spades, tomahawks, powder, pipes, and tobacco. There is at all times much difficulty in ascertaining the rightful owners, as some of the most insignificant men in the tribes in other respects may nevertheless own the largest tracts of land. It is therefore unwise to make payment without residing for some time on the spot; and even then it is customary to appoint a day for the purpose of assembling all the owners of the land in question, when the goods, if acceptable (for it is only then known whether they are or not), are handed over to the chiefs of the tribes, to be by them distributed to the sellers of the land in proportion to their claims. Notwithstanding this, which is reckoned the real purchase of the land, there are sundry after claims to be satisfied on account of parties who are not owners of the land, but who may happen to have near and distant relatives buried in

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some portion of it, which constitutes a claim for payment from the European purchaser. These claims are not heavy; but they are very vexatious, and frequently occasion much trouble. The places where these dead bodies are buried are reckoned tobooed, or sacred; and the taboo must in this manner be removed before the land can be used or even travelled upon by Europeans. You will perceive, from what I have stated, that it is rather a difficult matter to arrange for the purchase of lands in this country.

From all that I could ascertain, there appear to be two distinct rights recognised in the sale or alienation of land; --the one, political, and exercised by the chief and high men of the tribe; and the other, the real right of property. Before any purchase can be effected, this political right must be secured by obtaining the consent of the chief or chiefs of the district to the residence of the European among the tribes, and even upon lands in which the chiefs may have no right of property. After the political right is satisfied and secured by a suitable payment, then the individual proprietors of the soil are to be dealt with and satisfied for the land, according to the extent, quality, and value they may attach to it. The political right confers the permission to settle in the district, but the special purchase gives the right of use and occupancy. The boundaries of the various lands, even though, as in the case of the valley of the Thames, they may happen to have been for a long time unoccupied, and some of them perhaps never settled upon or cultivated, appear still to be well defined and well understood. The names of the various tribes, and even the several proprietors of all the lands we passed over, were always mentioned to us by the old chief when asked to do so. At the settlement of Coweranga the lands are as regularly marked out, even by straight lines, as they would be in England or Scotland.

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I could not ascertain anything satisfactory regarding the descent of property; but I imagine, like all feudal countries, the laws of primogeniture are more or less in force in New Zealand: they appear, however, to be somewhat modified, inasmuch as the younger brothers of the high chiefs are, generally speaking, if not always, possessed of land, which it is to be presumed they must have inherited from their ancestors. The political and military authority do not always, I believe, descend to the eldest son, unless he manifest ability to exercise them creditably; and it frequently happens that the political and military command are vested in two distinct persons in a tribe. The one is supreme in council, and the other in war. They must, however, be always enjoyed by a person of high birth and rank.

The system of clanship exists in New Zealand in great perfection. The people may be said to be divided into five distinct classes, viz.: first, High Chiefs, or the heads of tribes; second, Chieftains, or the heads of families; third, Gentlemen, or the descendants of chiefs and chieftains; fourth, Freemen; fifth, Slaves. The third and the fifth are perhaps the most numerous classes. Priests and medical men, who are held in great estimation, belong to the two first classes. In time of war, the high chief would take the command of the united tribes or families of the district, and the petty chieftains would head their respective clans or families. Like many ancient nations, the New Zealanders are in the habit of placing their slaves in the front of battle, so that the fear of death before and behind them might strongly stimulate their courage, which, under other circumstances, might not happen to be of the highest order.

To return to the subject of lands. Mr. M------and myself have been so well pleased with the appearance of New Zealand altogether, and with the district of the Thames in

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particular, that we have determined to purchase between us a tract of land from the old chief who accompanied us.

For the purpose of accomplishing this object, Mr. M------ has remained in New Zealand, in order to ascertain all the rightful owners of the land we have fixed upon; and I have returned here thus early, to forward to him the necessary goods for the completion of the purchase. There are so many persons now going to New Zealand from this Colony with the view of purchasing land and settling in that country, that before long, much of the available land will be purchased and occupied. With the assistance of the missionary, I have every hope that we shall be enabled to arrange with the natives for the land, which I am confident will in time turn out a valuable property.

Such is the rage for speculation in Sydney at the present moment, and so anxious are people to invest money in New Zealand property, that I have already been offered at the rate of of 5s. per acre for the half of any land that Mr. M------ may purchase on my account: but not knowing that I may become the owner of any land myself, I could not in fairness take money from others on the faith of a purchase not yet made. I have therefore declined the offer.

When Mr. M------ returns from New Zealand, and when anything of further importance regarding that country may occur, I shall again write to you. In the mean time, I must visit the Bush of Australia, (which I heartily detest,) in order to see how matters are getting on. I prefer New Zealand to this country, uncivilised though it be; and if I could to-morrow get rid of my concerns in this Colony, I would leave it and settle in the other. As it is, if the land be purchased, I must very likely soon again visit New Zealand.