1980 - Sewell, Henry. The Journal of Henry Sewell, 1853-7. Volume I - SECOND VISIT TO AKAROA, p 441-445

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SECOND VISIT TO AKAROA

On Thursday, 26 January [1854] we started for Akaroa, rather a sudden move though we had for some time meditated the excursion. Mr Hey had come in and his Boat was returning. As to punctuality certainly it is a virtue unknown here. At first the Boat would be off in the early morning--then at midday. Then came the Sea breeze in, blowing up more Sea in Lyttelton Harbour than I liked, but the boat at length made up its mind to be off about 5 o'clock. A beautiful afternoon. The wind dropped as it always does. Young Mr Bowen, Mr Westenra and a Mr Tribe 1 our companions. The two former holiday making the latter (who is a Storekeeper) on some merchandizing business. Outside the Heads was a heavy rolling swell, with hardly a breath of air. Poor Elizabeth was soon upset and was miserable till we reached our destination, Pigeon Bay. The Sun went down and it became dark before we landed about half-past nine. A queer scene on the Shore--Maoris fishing by torchlight; the wildest, strangest, most demoniac looking objects possible. A scene in Der Freyschutz 2 or any other piece of diablerie at a London Theatre--half naked Savages paddling about in the water brandishing blazing torches and whooping, hallooing and gesticulating in the strangest way. The ceremony of killing the fish is very simple, being nothing more than knocking them with a piece of Iron, part of an old hoop--or such like. They came round our boat jabbering as we landed but their fishing had been very unsuccessful.

Found the Pigeon Bay House of entertainment kept by a new Host one Mr Knowles, 3 (brother of Knowles cidevant clerk to the Canterbury Association, and Son to that Mrs Knowles with the melancholy daughter, our companions on the voyage. The new Landlord is a sanctimonious person, who by all accounts makes a compromise with Mammon in his charges to his customers. However we must not complain yet, as we left our bill to be discharged on our return.) We got some tea and eggs and a bed. The weather threatened change which after such continued drought and

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heat is to be expected. A shower fell in the night and there were clouds in the early morning. We started soon after 6 over the mountain intending to get the better of the heat of the day. I have before described the road from Pigeon Bay to Akaroa, and shall say no more about it now, except that the Creek or Mountain Stream was low and fordable dry shod by means of stepping stones. A charming walk through the woods and up the mountain side through thick Forest. We travelled slowly, and by the time we descended the other side the sun had mounted high, the clouds had worn off, and the day came out hot, though not oppressive still enough to fatigue Elizabeth. So we took our journey by easy stages with frequent restings. Certainly Akaroa is one of the most charming of places. The view looking down through openings in the wood quite perfect. At the head of the Bay took boat and were rowed across to Akaroa by two lazy French lads. Found our host (Mr Bruce), expecting us, our Carpet bag having been sent on in advance by the Mountain Maid. 4 Mr Bruce's quarters are clean and not uncomfortable. The place altogether very like a small seaside village in England. Seaview [Isle of Wight] for instance.

Saturday [28 January 1854], The weather still very hot. Mr Bowen and I walked to German's Bay, about 2 miles from Akaroa, our ostensible object being to hire a horse for Elizabeth, the real one to see the Country. Was rather disappointed with German's Bay. There are a few buildings but the Shore is a Mudflat. The principal house built by that Mr de Belligny who founded the French settlement under the Nanto Bordelaise Company. The House prettily situated, low, near the water's edge; a very fine background of Forest, into which some charming walks have been cut. Some very fine Timber, trees of 70 and 80 feet without a break. The House is almost a ruin, and the garden overgrown with weeds altogether neglected and uncomfortable.

Sunday, 29 January 1854. To Church morning and evening. Weather intensely hot. The Church a little unpretending wooden building in a charming situation. An open cleared space at the foot of the hills, with a few trees as a foreground, looking out on the Harbour and Mountains beyond. (Mr Aylmer, who is Pastor of the place, is Irish; the worst possible form of Churchism. Still) the Church Service upon any terms is a comfort and makes the place habitable.

Monday [30 January 1854]--Tuesday--and Wednesday [1 February]--Holiday making. A lazy do nothing life; too hot for exercise at midday. A little boating the only apology for exercise. Tuesday I went across the Harbour with a picnic party (of which Mr

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Aylmer was the Amphitryon) to a small Bay just opposite Akaroa. Hereabouts the Harbour is about 3 miles wide. Poor Elizabeth did not go with us. She has been suffering intensely from toothache which destroys all pleasure for sufferers and spectators. The whole Harbour is made up of a succession of small bays or bights, most with nicely sanded Shores, the Forest coming down to the water's edge, and Mountain Streams descending through valleys formed by the junction of Mountain Spurs. We lay about lazily on the shore eating ham and chicken and etceteras; returned about four o'clock, and in the evening went to the Aylmer's, where the juvenile part of the company concluded the evening with dancing till 12 or 1 o'clock. Dancing is a bore to me, so I have not much to say in favor of that part of the Entertainment. As to the rest it was much the same sort of thing as a picnic party in England. (Mrs Aylmer is a remarkably nice person. Then there were Miss Aylmer and Miss Westenra two Belles of the Settlement, and young Gentlemen flitting about them. Moths about the candle. Some of them have burnt their wings already I believe. This however is cosmopolitan gossip--the same as everywhere else.) They lighted some Chinese gauze lamps in the verandah which had a pretty effect, but which collected such entomological swarms of all kinds as were frightful to behold. The Mosquitoes literally blackened the ceiling of the verandah. Strange to say I have hardly suffered a single bite from them. The Sandflies are by far the worst enemies we have found; wretched creatures scarcely visible and which flit and jump about so as to be almost unapproachable. Upon the whole, however, I do not think the place half so bad in this point of view as (Chadwell and) the Essex Marshes with their gnats. The Mosquitoes last about two months in the year.

Wednesday, 1 February [1854], Again intensely hot. In the afternoon took boat and made a kind of exploring excursion to the head of the Bay about five miles up the Harbour, to the point at which the path from Pigeon Bay descends. More of those same sandy bays or inlets; more or less beautiful sections of land have been chosen in several; and here and there a solitary tenement announces a Settler. At present life in these places must be a mere solitude. They are for the most part inaccessible except by water. In time roads will be cut and the case will be changed. At present the scenery tempts new comers to locate themselves amongst these prisonlike beauties which they enjoy a little while, then grow sick and weary of the dolce far niente all alone by themselves. Besides they are for the most part of the adventurer class, who come to better themselves and these delightful solitudes are places where men in general go to leeward in their worldly concerns. If one could

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unite the utile and the dulce--the sweets of Akaroa with the profitable utilities of the plains, it would do admirably. Then again in these sequestered bays by the side of Mountain Streams and Evergreen Forests and Sandy Shores, with the sound of mighty waters rolling evermore, it is impossible to get Servants. They won't stay. They want to put on fine clothes, and shew them upon occasion as at Church and elsewhere. Also to indulge in flirtations on their own account which is impossible without human-kind. So they don't like solitudes, and people consequently have to wash their own clothes, scour their own floors &c. &c., all which is unimaginative and disagreeable. It will be better by and bye. In the meantime the eye of the true Colonist looks to Timber and Saw Mills &c. &c. which is much more to the purpose; and in this point of view I cannot but think that Akaroa is much more important than it has yet been considered. One Saw Mill has been established since I was last there. Akaroa is in state of agitation again about the everlasting Hempelman and his claims. The Governor it seems (illegally as I say) sanctioned the grant to him of 200 Acres to be chosen in an out of the way place where it was comparatively of little value. This was bad enough--but Mr Brittan the new Crown Commissioner has allowed the man to take 250 Acres, and that, not at the appointed place, but wherever he may choose (not as I heard at first in the heart of the socalled Town) but elsewhere. So Mr Hempelman and his Lawyer Mr Dampier (the latter claiming an interest in the affair in virtue of his bill of costs) are on the point of picking and choosing the choicest spots to the great scandal and disgust of all the bona fide Settlers. The best spot in my opinion for a small new Settlement at the head of the Bay has been picked out in this way. But there is no remedy. The people memorialize the Superintendent and the Provincial Government who can give them no help. How often shall I repeat the old cry for the General Assembly and a new Governor. But both seem as remote as ever.

Thursday morning [2 February 1854]. Between six and seven started on our way home. The early morning is the only time for hard exercise this hot weather. By way of helping Elizabeth over the hill I engaged a horse to meet her at the head of the bay, but the man was Colonial and deceived us. (N.B. You never can rely upon anybody or anything here, everyone is independent and cares nothing about affronting Customers.) The morning agreeable and not too hot. We made a slight variation of our route, trying another track up the hill, and of course lost our way. Poor Elizabeth's enemy the toothache attacked her several times by fits on the road, but we got to Pigeon Bay after about 7 hours' walking (not of course at a killing pace) heartily tired and hungry, but still bent on pursuing our

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progress homewards. Mr Bowen with us. We engaged a boat for £2 10s with two men (one a hump backed Maori) who pulled us down the Harbour. Outside a gentle fair breeze carried us smoothly and safely into Lyttelton by half-past eight, not sorry to be at home, not sorry to have seen Akaroa in its Summer beauty. Let me note by the bye that Akaroa is not destitute of fruit. We found that the gardens had produced abundantly, Raspberries, Gooseberries and Currents (Strawberries do not succeed) but the summer fruit was nearly over. We saw peach trees covered with fruit, unripe, but I suspect of an inferior kind. Apparently some good pears and plums of different sorts. Also the grapes promise well this year. I fancy that the sorts of all kinds are inferior but the climate must be admirable for them. Lyttelton is altogether fruitless at least so far as Marketable produce is concerned. We get none. Fish we get none--not that there is not plenty in the Harbour, but it will not pay to catch them.