1971 - Lush, Vicesimus. The Auckland Journals of Vicesimus Lush, 1850-63 - THE JOURNALS... p 25-258

       
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  1971 - Lush, Vicesimus. The Auckland Journals of Vicesimus Lush, 1850-63 - THE JOURNALS... p 25-258
 
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THE JOURNALS...

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THE JOURNALS
of the Revd VICESIMUS LUSH
FIRST VICAR of the MILITARY
PENSIONER SETTLEMENT of HOWICK
in the PROVINCE of AUCKLAND
NEW ZEALAND
1850-63

15 October 1850. At 9 Blanche and I met the Bullocks Dray at the College for we were told it was going to Auckland and we thought it a good opportunity to make a few needful purchases. Took with us 5 sacks of dirty linen, the accumulation of our voyage.

Blanney accompanied us and we were amused with our novel mode of travelling but enjoyed it much - the day was fine, the breeze bracing and though the conveyance was rude and the roads rough, we have often been much less happy in a luxurious carriage in England. The road from Bishop's Auckland (where St John's is) to the town of Auckland is not very interesting but occasionally there are some interesting views of Shouraki Bay; it is hilly in the extreme and for

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OCTOBER 1850

some 3 miles from the College in a rough state indeed - full of deep ruts: but the remainder of the distance is in as good a state of repair as the road to Paddington.

We stopt at the house of a Mr Kissling 1 of Remuera 2 about 2 miles from Auckland. Mr Kissling has the over sight of all the natives round about and Mrs Kissling keeps a large native boarding girls' school, a most excellent institution which promises to be of infinite value to the rising generation of natives: here the native girls are well educated and trained, and after many years of patient labour are formed into useful and respectable members of a civilized community: many of them have married the native young men educated at St John's College and others are now engaged, so, as the Bishop raises up a fine intellectual set of native men, Mrs Kissling does her best to supply them with suitable helpmates.

Mrs Kissling takes in washing for the native girls to learn industrious habits, and we stopt here to leave our 5 sacks of linen. Unfortunately Mr and Mrs Kissling had just gone to Auckland, but we deposited our load in the passage and told the servant we would try to see her mistress in the Town. We saw several of the native girls, fine young women, brown skins, large black eyes, jet black hair, and splendid white teeth which they were continually showing as they were continually smiling and laughing and looking as happy as they could. The house is pleasantly situated on a small hill overlooking Shouraki Bay, and we noticed in the garden through which we walked from the road to the house, some magnificent geraniums and fuchsias which grow in the open air throughout the year and are never without an abundance of blossom: indeed, vegetation is a perfect wonder.

When we reached Auckland we went to a draper's of the name of Forsyth 3 where Mr Kissling's servant told us we might find him. He and his wife had been there, but had left - however, on coming to the shop door with us he pointed them

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VERY AGREEABLE PEOPLE

out to us, walking along at the end of the street. We followed them into a store and I introduced myself and Blanche, and as Mrs Selwyn had communicated with them respecting us, we were very warmly received. Mr Kissling is a small man and speaks English very imperfectly, being by birth a German. Mrs Kissling is a fine tall woman, and I conclude English by birth; we found them very agreeable people and Mr Kissling gave me much insight into the state of things and Society in the Colony.

Seeing we were strangers, the proprietor of the store asked us to walk into his sitting room, to talk there, rather than in the shop. While there he brought us wine and bread and butter, and pressed his hospitality upon our acceptance. Mr and Mrs Kissling invited us to dine with them so I left the two Blanches under their care, while I went in search of a store kept by a man who took care of all the baggage for St John's College. I asked him to receive mine that I had on the Barbara Gordon till such time as I might require them. This he agreed to do, charging me 1 shilling per ton per week.

As I left the town I overtook Mrs Kissling and my two Blanneys. We walked back to her residence where dinner was ready, which I greatly enjoyed. Soon after dinner the Dray was announced, which we found much loaded with goods for the College, and the seat already occupied by a woman who was going our way: after a little arrangement we all got comfortably seated, some on sacks, others on hampers, and all reached St John's in safety just as the little bell was ringing for evening prayers, so I ran into Chapel and the two Blanches made the best of their way home.

16. Walked to Auckland. A short distance from the Town overtook a respectable looking farmer with whom I walked the remainder of the way. He told me that 10 years previous it had taken him 6 days to traverse the same line of country he and I had walked that morning in less than two hours! Then it was thick bush with occasional swamps; now there was throughout a good road with bridges over all creeks and streams. Called on the Warringtons who have lodgings on the

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OCTOBER 1850

outskirts of Auckland. Met Mr Churton 4 to whom I introduced myself. Engaged a native youth to carry some packages to St John's. We beguiled our way by giving each other lessons - he teaching me Maori - I him English.

18. After prayers worked for two hours with Mr Abraham 5 and Mr Lloyd 6 on the College estate, filling in drains, &c: my back ached not a little when I returned at 1 o'clock for dinner with my dear children.

Blanche and I asked neighbour Hakopa to accompany us to a man named Wiley, of whom we learnt we could buy the potatoes now alone remaining in the whole neighbourhood. Chatted to Hakopa in Maori, much to his amusement: for I make repeated mistakes, many I dare say ludicrous enough.

19. The wind blew one of our windows to pieces: this however does not prove the strength of the mighty element so much as the weakness of our habitation, which I often marvel remains so unharmed by the storms as it does, seeing that it is exceeding light and fragile in its construction.

21. After breakfast started on foot for Auckland: but ere I had gone two yards a cart overtook me, the driver of which offered to give me a lift into Town. Was set down at the Warringtons'; thence called upon the Churtons where I had luncheon. Mr Churton has 10 children, lives in his own house, has five acres of land for which 10 years ago he paid 69 £ an acre: similar land now fetches £5. His house is prettily situated, but looks uncomfortable for want of a little paint and paper. Mr Churton accompanied me into the Town and put me on the road to Government House; whither I went and sent in my card to Sir George Grey. Was asked into the Drawing room where I had a long interview with his Excellency, whom I found an extremely pleasant, affable man. Left Blanche's compliments to Lady Grey and her apologies for not being able to accompany me. On leaving wrote my name

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THROUGH THE TAMAKI

in the Visitors' book. Returned to the Churtons' to dinner. Saw in his garden fine standard peach trees loaded with fruit and apple trees bowed down with their abundant crops.

22. After Hall accompanied Mr Abraham to the native villages of Orakei and Okahu: we walked to their wooden chapel, built by their own subscriptions and in a style that would not disgrace any village in England. Adjoining the whare Karakia - "prayer house" - as all chapels and churches are called, was the residence of the native Kaiwhakaako (Teacher). He was excessively tattooed which much diminished any pleasantness about his countenance. The walk was the prettiest I have yet seen.

23. Started at 9 o'clock on a visiting tour through the Tamaki, to ascertain how many children we might expect our neighbours would send to a boys and girls day school Mr Abraham was thinking of establishing on the College premises. Walked from 9 till 4 in the afternoon, 7 hours, and in that time called on 10 different families and received the names of 23 children.

The houses were very far apart and the access to several of them difficult but I enjoyed my stroll and was not near so tired when I reached home as I had expected I should be. Along the side of one unfrequented road there were a succession of roses and geraniums interspaced with the furze: the pink clusters of the roses, the bright scarlet of the geraniums and the golden blossom of the furze made the spot appear like a border of a flower garden rather than the edge of a wild uncultivated waste. This is beyond all question a glorious country.

24. Breakfast at 1/2 past 6 thanks to the activity of my good wife. Called on Mrs Selwyn who gave me a packet of letters for the Post office in Auckland and one for Mrs Martin, 7 the wife of the Judge. Walked to Town, calling on my way at Mr Kissling's.

Saw Mrs Kissling and talked to her about the Maories with whose character and disposition she is well acquainted. Learnt

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OCTOBER 1850

from her that English servants were expensive - wages being £12 and 15 and 18 for a mere girl of 15. On leaving her house met Mr Kissling; walked with him to the new School house for Maori girls 8 which the Bishop is having built not far from Judge Martin's house - it will be an excellent institution capable of boarding 150 girls. The buildings are large and lofty and beautifully situated in ground belonging [to] the school, containing some 200 acres.

Thence Mr Kissling accompanied me to the Judge's, whom we met not far from his house. I was duly introduced and cordially welcomed to New Zealand. He begged me to proceed to his residence as Mrs Martin was at home, apologizing at the same time at not being able to return with me, but he had business with the Governor. I was much pleased with Mrs Martin.

Dined at the Warringtons' on my way back: fine roast leg of pork for which they gave 4d a lb. Reached Bishop's Auckland just in time for tea, and found my dear wife and family as happy and merry as I could wish to see them.

25. Wrote sermon for next Sunday and assisted in our little girls' schooling: Mary commenced learning her letters. In the afternoon walked with Blanche to some of the neighbouring farm houses to ascertain how they managed in some few cases where we were in fault. Learnt how to make bread with flour, buttermilk and carbonate of soda, baked in a camp oven - tasted some so prepared and thought it nice as "Sally Lunn".

In one portion of our walk found the English garden strawberry over running the road in all directions, and it being in full blossom, we had to walk over a splendid strawberry bed. We had repeatedly to stop and admire the extreme loveliness of the scenery: look which way we would we saw fine hills, and a broad expanse of water, while in the foreground were some of the most fertile farms on the Tamaki.

26. Walked to the village of Epsom 2 miles from the Town. Reached Mr Lusk's 9 raupo cottage about 1/2 past 12. Had a

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PERSEVERANCE & INDUSTRY

friendly meeting, and I was glad to renew and render somewhat more intimate our acquaintanceship. He is occupying a small farm delightfully situated beneath a range of hills called the Three Kings: this farm he rents, but he has purchased 80 acres on the hills themselves, which he hopes to bring into cultivation by the end of his present lease.

There were around him every appearance of abundance, and though from his account they have had to struggle hard for many months on first arriving, I doubt not they will gradually acquire a valuable independence. The whole of his capital when he left England was below 500 £.

After tea Mr Lusk accompanied me to Onehunga. On gaining the summit of a low hill, saw Onehunga laying like a map before me: this is one of the pensioner settlements, and the scene was one I viewed with interest. The Horizon opposite was bounded by lofty hills, most striking and picturesque in their strange and fantastic shapes, clearly showing that a considerable volcanic activity was at one time in existence throughout the whole neighbourhood: at the base of this range of hills was the great Estuary of Manukau, whose waters glittered in the setting sun.

Between the sea and the hill on which I stood, was a little plain dotted over in all directions with neat wooden cottages, in the midst of which stood the village Church surrounded by a good sized church yard, in one corner of which was the school house; while not 50 yards away was the Parsonage, a comfortable cottage, standing within 5 acres of glebe land. As I walked through the settlement one could almost judge of the character and habits of the occupants of the respective cottages we passed, by the state of their one acre allotments.

Some were highly cultivated and kept in the neatest order, showing perseverance and industry: others were anything but what they should be, and yet each man received his cottage, his land, and 1 shilling a day, from Government; so all have an equal chance of "doing well" with moderate industry and temperate habits. But old soldiers do not invariably turn out the best cultivators of the soil.

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OCTOBER 1850

This village is under the pastoral charge of Mr Purchas. 10 Mrs Purchas received us with much kindness and hospitality: her household consists of herself and husband, two children of her own, and 5 little half-caste children of whom she had the care several years ago, with 3 Maori women as servants. The family prayers were partly in Maori and partly in English. I slept in Mr Purchas' study, on the floor, glad to lay my wearied limbs anywhere.

27. Twenty-second Sunday after Trinity. Service in the Church (St Peter's) commenced at 4 past 10. The Pensioners marched to Church in military order, dressed in uniform, and a certain number with muskets and swords: so my village congregation looked anything but rustic.

After Church walked with Lusk to his house where I dined, and then he performed the part of guide in my walk to Epsom, where I held service at 3 o'clock in a small school room. The congregation, however, was unsatisfactory, consisting but of about 20 people though there must be some 200 to 300 people in the Village, and immediate neighbourhood.

From Epsom returned to Onehunga, whose Church I reached just at 5, the time the service was to commence, so without rest I began again. After service Mrs Purchas introduced me to a Mr Hamilton, a good Maori scholar, who kindly gave me much information on the language during the evening.

28. Awoke about 1/2 past 4. Arose immediately and started soon after 5 a. m. for my own dear home. Had a delightful walk over a tract of country new to me, but every step I took convinced me that New Zealand is indeed a fruitful land. Reached the Tamaki soon after 7, much to the delight of my dear Wife and children, whom I entertained during breakfast with a minute account of all I had seen and heard since I left them on Saturday morning.

29. Walked to Owairoa, the district I am in hopes may be placed under my own pastoral care. It is 8 miles from Bishop's

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SO DELIGHTFUL A PARISH

Auckland: the road the whole way was good, though to cross the Tamaki creek I had to adventure myself in so small a boat that had the sea been much rougher I fear I should have had a sad ducking.

The country between the College and Howick is exceeding hilly, but the land is rich and there is far more wood than I have yet seen elsewhere. I passed through Panmure, a Pensioner Settlement, numbering about a 100 neat wooden cottages, each in its own acre of land - the acres being well cultivated, and each Cottage surrounded by a garden resplendent with beautiful flowers, the whole village looked the picture of health, peace and contentment.

I was much struck with Howick (Owairoa) when I first caught sight of it. Coming from the Tamaki you have to ascend a long, steep hill, but on reaching the summit the whole settlement of Owairoa lies before you, stretching down the opposite side of the hill you have just been toiling up, and reaching to the top of a low hill over against you, and filling the valley between. I had never seen so interesting a sight - Onehunga and Panmure, though like Howick, pensioner villages, being far smaller and far less picturesquely situated than this at Owairoa.

On the brow of the opposite hill stood the Church, its little steeple pointing heavenward; thither I bent my steps, viewing with much interest as I passed along, the various ways in which the one acre allotments had been cultivated by their respective occupiers. On reaching "All Saints" an unexpected prospect burst upon my view: the Church, as I have said, stands upon the brow of a hill, and as I walked up to its gate and looked around I saw the most lovely bay lying at the further base of the hill on which All Saints is built. After gazing at this fair scene for some few minutes and hoping it might be my lot to have so delightful a parish, I entered the Church, a neat wooden building, which was framed at St John's College and carried to its present site by the Bishop's schooner Undine. In the nave I found a small school assembled, under the charge of one of the Sergeants of the

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OCTOBER -NOVEMBER 1850

company: some 20 neat intelligent looking children, though I could not but regret they were not in a school house.

From the Sergeant I learnt a deplorable account of the village: schism, rivalry and divisions were rife: and I could not but lament that go where you would, sin, satan and the world do their best to hinder us from "Godly union and concord".

31. Took Blanche to Champion's 11 cottage at Pororua [Purewa] where I landed when I first came ashore. She thought my description of this sweet spot fell far short of its many beauties - but how fairly balanced are all the beauties of the Creator: Champion and his wife have not every blessing in their apparently desirable retreat, though such a [good] looking place as would make one covet it, they are obliged to live on salt provisions because their cottage is so far removed from the haunts of man, and seldom can they taste milk or baker's bread.

1 November. In the afternoon Charlie and the 3 girls played with Hakopa's little daughter. This is the first day we have managed to get the little browny in the slightest degree sociable. Charlie was so delighted with his new playmate that he cried after her when they parted at tea time. His light hair and fair skin were strikingly contrasted against her dark brown skin and coal black hair.

Last night dear little Mary was attacked by a rat, which bit her heel and caused it to bleed considerably: rats, mice and fleas are the only vermin we have as yet noticed; the former of these are exceeding bold and savage.

7. Amused myself with unpacking my book box, containing papers and my sermons: Charlie is delighted with his card man, and the two little girls' Battledore and Shuttlecocks, which were in this box, proved a source of unexpected pleasure to the children [in] such wet weather as we are now having.

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A HIGH-SPIRITED HORSE

9 Had for breakfast Maize meal porridge, which we all pronounced far better than that made of oat meal. Maize meal is cheap: 2d a lb retail: 1 1/2d a lb if bought in quantities of 50 or 100 lbs.

Worked for two hours in the garden attached to this house; found in one corner, a number of fine radishes, which the three little girls who were with me, ran home with in high glee. Had them for our tea and found them very mild and good, though they were as large as good sized carrots in England.

10. Twenty-fourth Sunday after Trinity. Went to the College stables at 8, and found I was to have "Jessica", a handsome mare Mr Cotton 12 gave Mrs Selwyn, and which she rides. Mounted in high spirits and was soon in full canter for Howick where I was to do duty. Near Panmure overtook Mr Ward 13 with staff in one hand and book in the other, like a pilgrim in former days, walking from St John's to Otahu [Otahuhu] where he has service every Sunday.

We parted company at Panmure, he going on, I turning to the left towards the ferry, on reaching which I had to wait 1/2 an hour for the Punt, and the sea running very high, and the waves dashing against the sides of the landing place, my high spirited horse became either alarmed or impatient, and when I got off to lead him [sic] down to the water's edge to go with the punt, he reared and kicked and plunged, and finally broke away from me, and galloped furiously up the hill, rushing away towards the village of Panmure.

I thought this no joke: the horse cost 80 guineas and even if he reached the College without broken knees I had the unpleasant prospect of trudging back on foot through mud ancle deep and through a soaking shower, for it was now raining hard. To my great joy, however, Jessica was speedily stopt by a Maori, who not only brought her to me, but coaxed her on to the punt. We crossed in safety though slowly and uncomfortably, for the tide was running strong and the wind

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NOVEMBER 1850

blew and the rain fell in a frightful manner, and thus it continued to Howick, which place I reached shortly before 11, wet to the skin notwithstanding my waterproof coat.

I put up my horse at the only Hotel 14 in the place and walked to the Church, where the Sergeant whom I had on a former visit found acting as Schoolmaster, came forward dressed in full regimentals and expressed his sorrow that I should have ridden over, "for you see, your Reverence," he said, "as there will be no Parade this morning in consequence of the rain, so there will be no Church".

Queer place, thought I to myself, to make Church an adjunct of Parade, but being very wet and uncomfortable I took the man's advice and returned to mine Host for Jessica. Mrs Lewis, however, would on no account let me depart without taking a glass of wine and some pound cake, which I was glad to have under the circumstances in which I found myself. Thus recruited I mounted and galloped away for St John's, where I arrived in time to partake of dinner with my own children, a treat I do not often enjoy now that we (Blanche and I) dine generally in Hall.

11. After dinner we all went into a small wood near our house to gather fuchsia berries. Five of the native boys from the College accompanied us, and we formed a merry party. The lads quickly dispersed themselves over the wood and climbed up the fuchsia trees, many of which were exceeding lofty, and were laden with a small black berry, the fruit of their small scarlet blossom. We gathered upwards of a gallon, collecting the contributions from each little gatherer with an unusual basket made for us by our good neighbour's wife, who has also finished for us a capital door mat made from the flax plant.

12. Rode over to Howick again today to take a funeral for Mr Lloyd, a very different day from Sunday last: if there was a risk of my being washed away by the rain, now there was a danger of my being melted by the heat. However, I

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FUCHSIA-BERRY PUDDING

enjoyed my ride upon the whole, and found Captain McDonald with a picket of the pensioners (all in full regimentals) just arrived at the Church as I rode in sight.

Thought of the difference in appearance between these attendants at a funeral, and those one usually sees in a village churchyard in England: smock frocks and black coats in the old country, uniforms and swords in this new settlement.

Reached St John's too late for Hall so had dinner at my own house, and tasted a pudding made of the Fuchsia berries we gathered yesterday; thought it good, but the children with the exception of little Charlie, did not like it.

Blanche told me that Rota, 15 the College butler (a native) had brought down his little infant for Hakopa's wife to see, and that she had called him in, and she and the children had kissed and admired the pretty brown baby to the infinite delight of its proud and happy parent. The child, Blanche says, is plump, clean and well dressed; she is to be christened by the Bishop on his return, at the time the Bishop's own daughter will be christened.

On my way to Panmure this morning I overtook a well dressed native riding a very good horse, and we rode together in company to the Ferry. I learnt from him that he was the keeper of the Ferry, and had a large quantity of excellent land in a high state of cultivation. While waiting for the punt I looked at his crops, and his potatoes, wheat and grass appeared superior to any I have yet seen. He lives in a good house, keeps 4 or 5 native labourers and one English servant, and has a small coasting vessel of about 10 Tons, with which he trades between the Tamaki and Auckland. I was told afterwards he had given 70 £ for this vessel, and that he was making money fast.

Last Xmas day I heard he gave a feast to a large party of his immediate friends and relations: there were upwards of 13 large plumb [sic] puddings, and as many fine sirloins of beef. When he parted from me on the beach, he hailed a boat from his vessel which was lying at anchor off the shore, and was

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NOVEMBER 1850

rowed to her by his white servant: and yet, such a man as this is denominated a "Savage" by foolish, ignorant people in England. I have often joined parties on the road in civilized England who far more merited the appellation of "Barbarians" than any of the Maori I have as yet seen.

13. Nothing of any moment occurred today: worked in the College garden for some time planting out cauliflowers; took home for tea some young lettuces which the children relished much.

Last night the rats nibbled all the tallow off the candle Betsy had left standing on her drawers when she went to bed - this morning we were somewhat amused at seeing the Ghost of the former luminary standing like a thin bare pole in the candlestick.

18. Blanche and I went to Auckland. Blanche rode on Mrs Abraham's pony, I walked by her side in my cassock coat, leading the pony, dear Blanche in her bonnet and shawl; but we set fashion at defiance and do and dress just as we like. Bought 25 lbs of Maize Meal for 3/0. Found Crockery and Tinware much the same as in England.

Called on the Revd Thatcher, 16 the assistant Minister of S. Paul's. He was out but his wife we found at Home. Very sociable and chatty, and we were soon quite at home with one another. Had luncheon and pressed her to come and see us should we be settled anywhere within reach. On our return met Mr Thatcher coming from St John's College.

19. At Hall tasted for the first time some New Zealand crayfish; like immense lobsters but without claws; the flavour was not quite so distinctive, more insipid, but good, and the meat was very firm.

Bought for the little girls' dinner two fishes, larger than English mackerel, for 1/0 and /6 each, one called Tamure 17 - the other - Araara. 18 Blanche thought I had paid too much.

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DUTY AT HOWICK

22. Still rather wet but mild. A large portion of my neighbour Hakopa's whare (as the raupo cottages are called) fell down, to the great astonishment of his wife Rahera and her little daughter. Hakopa (Jacob) and Rahera (Rachel) are names no one would find fault with, but I do not think they have been happy in naming their daughter (Rine) - Dinah.

Mr and Mrs Abraham called, the latter on her pony; while she was in our house talking to Blanche, Mr Abraham good-naturedly gave all the children a ride up and down the field to their great pleasure and amusement.

24. Sunday before Advent. Arose at 5, breakfast at 7; started for Howick at 8. I rode the chestnut horse, Jessica being required elsewhere. It having been arranged that I should do duty regularly at Howick till the Bishop returns from Sydney, I took with me my scarf and hood and surplice and gown - together with an extra pair of boots to keep in the Vestry at Howick. These were placed in a carpet bag which my good neighbour, Mohi, carried. We walked together, he on foot, I on horseback, and a capital lesson I had in the Native language for we kept up a continuous conversation, and whenever I spoke incorrectly he set me right before he went on with the subject.

He told me the native name of Howick was Paparoa (tall tree) not Owairoa (long water) as I had been first told. Perhaps it bears both names for there is a forest of lofty trees near, and a large bay of the sea close by: it is now best known by its English name, Howick. We had not proceeded far when he disappeared through the door of a small road side whare, and after staying for a few minutes leaving me wondering the "why and wherefore", he emerged with a smiling face indeed, but divested of his shoes and stockings. He was now shod as he is throughout the week, and walked along by my side much faster, and I doubt not, to himself, with much more comfort.

When near Howick I told him he must come to Church after he had taken my horse to the Inn, when he pointed to his feet and said "What, without shoes, and all English

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NOVEMBER 1850

people?" I replied, "Mohi, my friend, God will not look at your feet whether you have shoes, but at your heart, whether it is right": to which he replied "What you say is good": and there he was too, in Church, throughout the whole of the Service, behaving far more reverently than a great many of the shoed English.

We reached Howick in good time: the Church was very full, all the male portion of the congregation, with but 2 or 3 exceptions, were in uniform, their guns nicely arranged along the north side of the nave. When the service was over and the congregation had retired, Mohi and I were left alone: I took from my pocket two large crusts of bread at the sight of which he was much pleased, and slightly touching his stomach said "E hiakai ana ahau", (I am hungry).

We went into the Church yard and, sitting down in the shade on the grass, enjoyed our simple meal; although I had nothing but dry bread I felt as happy as though I had had a sumptuous dinner: the day was brilliant, the sky bright, the air refreshing, the scene before me of mountain and sea glittering in the sunshine was truly magnificent, and when our bread was eaten I still lingered in the Church yard, thinking of days and scenes that were past and enjoyed that which was present.

There was a tolerable congregation in the afternoon. I baptized the infant of a George Kells, my first christening in New Zealand - the names given were Caroline Urania.

25. Rode to Auckland: returned in time to dine in Hall where we met William Thompson, the son of Te Rauparaha, one of the most celebrated chiefs in New Zealand. He sat at the High Table next to Mrs Selwyn and immediately opposite me: he was a perfect gentleman in his manners and very attentive to the wants of both Mrs Selwyn and Blanche, who was pleased to have so good an opportunity of seeing the son of so great a man as Te Rauparaha. He was dressed in European clothing and but for the colour of his skin and the strangeness of his tongue (he spoke in his own language though he knows English) no one would have taken him to

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IN SEARCH OF EGGS

be otherwise than an English gentleman. He had come from Otaki in the south (where he lives in a large, handsome house built in the English fashion) to meet the John Wesley which sails next month for England.

27. Met Mohi just after breakfast going forth for a walk, as unlike the Mohi of Sunday as it was possible to conceive. On Sunday he was dressed as a European, and the quality of his clothing appeared as good as mine: today he had twisted a black silk handkerchief tastefully round his head for a covering, and clothed in a long, new blanket, adjusted in the most graceful manner about his body, with bare legs and feet and with a long spear in his right hand, he looked every whit a New Zealander, such as my imagination had often pictured them to be when I was in England.

In the afternoon walked to Onehunga to call upon Major Kenny. 19 Opposite Major Kenny's house there was a fine field of clover which he was cutting, and hoped to have off it a large crop of hay: four months ago it was a field of fern! Such is the wonderful progress of all kinds of grasses, and so gratifying is the return to any labour expended upon the soil. This land was ploughed once and raked over twice and then the seed planted, and such was the luxuriance of its verdure that I should have thought it the result of years of culture rather than that of but 4 months.

29. Blanche and I dined with the children and afterwards took them and Betsy a walk. We went to a cottage inhabited by a respectable working family of the name of Embling, in search of eggs. The children on their way thither delighted themselves by gathering from the road sides most beautiful bouquets of geraniums, roses, &c. Bought our eggs, 6 Duck's and 6 Hen's for one shilling.

Saw Mrs Embling's dairy, small but neat and clean; she gave Blanche much information respecting its management, information we were glad to obtain as we hope so soon to keep one ourselves. In the Evening attended Chapel: Mrs Abraham present - her visits there are few and far between.

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NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 1850

After Service met the College postmaster who gladdened my heart my telling me there were some newspapers from England for me. I asked eagerly for letters, but to my sorrow found there were only Papers.

However this was a great treat and I ran home to Blanche with my bundle of Papers, and long and comfortably did we sit by our fire skimming over Paper after Paper, devouring the news.

4 December. In the afternoon there was considerable excitement at the College in the expectation of the Bishop's return. The College stands on sufficiently high land to command an uninterrupted view of the entrance to the harbour of Auckland and the sea beyond for many miles. The northern head of the harbour being that side further from the College, forms a peninsula at high water; on this peninsula there are two conical hills, the higher called Takaranga 20 is about 270 feet high, on the summit of which is a flag staff and telegraph to apprise the good people of Auckland whenever a ship is in sight and of what sort a nation. Just as we were going into Hall we discovered that the signal had been hoisted to intimate that two brigs were in sight: the Bishop's new ship, the Iris, which the Sydney people had just given him we understood was a brig; the chances therefore were one of the two in sight was the Iris, with the long wished for Bishop on board.

But we were doomed to disappointment. Mrs Selwyn seemed in low spirits: hers is a hard lot - she sees little of her husband. He has now been abroad three months and the Undine is being fitted out to carry him to Nelson and Wellington directly he returns from Sydney and when he comes back from the South, he and the Bishop of Newcastle will go off immediately in the Iris for the Isles of the Ocean. Such is the life of a Missionary Bishop; how happier yet more humble is the lot of many of the good Bishop's Priests and Deacons: at least I thought so as I reached this evening my little cottage

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VESSELS FROM SYDNEY

and saw no stern necessity laid upon me to leave my dear family for weeks and months together.

5. The two vessels seen yesterday were the Mankin and the Ellen Page, both of Sydney. Though they brought no Bishop one conveyed a letter from his Lordship; some little compensation this for the disappointment we all felt at not seeing himself. He has chartered the Emma to sail punctually on the 27th ult: so he might arrive tomorrow or the next day. He comes back with a party of 11 souls: 5 natives from the Isles of the Pacific, three Miss Hectors - sisters to one of our students here - Simeon, a Maori, and others. Hector, the youth at the College, is the boy mentioned by the Bishop in his journal. He is describing the attack on the English flagstaff at Kororareka and he offered young Hector an asylum on board the Flying Fish, which the youth declined, saying he would like to stay with his father: to which the Bishop replied, "God bless you, my boy. I can say nothing against it", and away he went to join his father in the hottest part of the fight.

He escaped unhurt and has remained with the Bishop ever since; his brother and sisters were at this engagement on board the Bishop's vessel Flying Fish. The Mother has died: the Father has turned out exceeding eccentric and, the girls left like orphans in Sydney, the Bishop has determined to receive them all into his own house and be unto them as a Father; what a good and charitable man is this Bishop Selwyn.

6. Walked to Paparoa (Howick) with a basket slung by a tape over my shoulder - containing a green leno curtain for the East Window of the Church which I noticed gave so strong a light immediately behind me that it must both distress the sight of the congregation and prevent them seeing me in any way distinctly. Reached All Saints just as the school dispersed at 12 o'clock so had the Church quiet and to myself; pasted tissue paper over the windows to make them resemble ground glass, gave them a coating of linseed oil on the outside, and put up the curtain, all which, Sergeant Pearce assured me, had greatly improved the chancel. He entered

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DECEMBER 1850

the Church as I was finishing my work so could judge of its effect. The light was much subdued and whatever the congregation think about it, I shall find the comfort of it as regards my sight on Sunday, I doubt not.

The Sergeant told me the pupils were anxiously expecting me to come and reside among them as their Pastor. His son walked with me two miles out of Paparoa to carry my basket, a help I was thankful for, the basket being rather weighty from my hammer, pincers, &c.

9. The Bishop returned at 12 o'clock last night. Blanney and Charlotte accompanied me to the 7 o'clock Chapel. On reaching the College found all the students drawn up in a line near the Bishop's house, headed by Mr Abraham and Lloyd: we went and joined them soon after his Lordship made his appearance when he was greeted with three hearty cheers. I was duly introduced and he went down the long line of students, shaking each by the hand and speaking a kind word to all: we then entered the Chapel: the Bishop read prayers and returned thanks to God for his safe return home.

I saw no more of his Lordship till Hall time when I introduced dear Blanche, who with me was delighted with his kind and affable manner. We returned with him to his house and sat two hours chatting about New Zealand and his proceedings at Sydney. The Australians seem to have been much taken with him, we learnt from the Miss Hectors. The Churches in which he preacht were always crammed with people, and whenever he appeared at a public meeting he was vociferously cheered. The morning he left Sydney for his own diocese there was a special service at one of the Churches which was filled to over-flowing and immediately after prayers the congregation walked with him to the beach, and after seeing him into his own ship, went on board a large steamer and with colours flying towed him out of the Harbour and upwards of two miles beyond the "Heads", and then with a kind and cordial farewell they returned home again. The Bishop's house being full, Blanche accommodated the two youngest Miss Hectors with a bedroom in our

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BREAKFAST WITH THE BISHOP

cottage, and it was from them that I learnt many interesting details of the Bishop's sojourn "on the continent".

12. Caroline Hector, who is two years older than Blanney, spent the morning with our children, much to their delight. The 5 little things went out by themselves and wandered about in the adjoining woods: the first time since we landed that they have been out of our sight. But we were confident they could not get into much trouble: there was no deep water or precipitous banks or noxious reptiles and they strolled about till Charlie went nearly to sleep and so they had to bring him in where he finished his nap. At tea time I looked at him with astonishment: he and Blanney too, have so vastly improved in health and good looks within the last month.

Both Blanche and myself are much disappointed that the Bishop has not yet spoken to me regarding my destination. The Bishop brought with him from Sydney a stone font which was today placed in the College Chapel. The design is tolerable but not first rate: however it is an infinite improvement on the Worcestershire basin 21 - the substitute for a font hitherto universally used in this country.

14. After Chapel the Bishop requested me to breakfast with him, which invitation I accepted. Met Judge Martin and his wife. After breakfast his Lordship took me into his study and we had a long conversation; he put Howick under my care, and told me I might go there immediately Mrs Dillon would leave the Parsonage. So far is exceeding satisfactory, though I shall have more to do in Teaching, visiting, &c., than I had in any of the parishes I had in England.

On my return to the cottage Mr Lusk came with his cart, and took myself, Blanche and the three little girls to Epsom, where we dined and had tea. Mr Lusk brought us back in the same vehicle in the evening. We enjoyed ourselves much, the more since the Bishop had at last decided to send me where we both so greatly longed and wished I might be located.

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DECEMBER 1850

I asked Mr Lusk to buy me as soon as possible a Horse and cart, two cows, and a few fowls. Having ten acres of land the living will not be half so valuable unless I make good use of my glebe, and supply my household with eggs, butter, milk, vegetables and to a great extent in meat also, from my own "farm".

15. The Bishop's little daughter was christened today - names, Margaret Frances. Rota's baby was baptized at the same time; names, Caroline Harriet: the latter after Mrs Abraham. Mrs Martin and Mr and Mrs Abraham were the Parkeha's sponsors: Mrs Selwyn and two natives were the sponsors for the little Maori. The Bishop performed the service in the College Chapel, using the new stone font for the first time.

I was absent at Howick whither I had started at 1/2 past 6, calling on Captain Smith 22 on my way, where I breakfasted. He lives about 3 miles from Howick: diverging to his house increased my walk by two miles, but as he will be my "Squire" I was glad to make acquaintance with him and his excellent spouse.

16. Arose at 5 none the worse for my 18 miles walk: this is a wonderful climate for enabling one to go through much labour without that exhaustion which so generally follows exertion in England and elsewhere.

Blanche told me yesterday Dinah was dressed out in little Mary's old blue frock and her Mother's white shawl: she strutted out from their Whare just as our Charlie was going out from our door. He is in general very fond of the little "Brownie" but yesterday he toddled up to poor little Dinah, raised his little fist and knocked her to the ground: and then stood over her, pushing her down every time the poor little thing tried to get up, scolding her all the time. Whether he recognised his sister's frock and thought Dinah was a thief we cannot divine, but the whole transaction amused both Mothers who were looking on from their respective cottages.

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THE NEW SCHOOL HOUSE

17. A day much to be remembered. The Native Girls' new School House, a spacious building at Remuera [Parnell] was opened by the Bishop and the occasion was made a holiday at St John's and a sort of gala day by the Town of Auckland.

Blanche and Blanny accompanied me: we started in the dray drawn by 4 bullocks about 10 o'clock; with us were Mr St Hill, 23 John Selwyn, Fred Hector, Mrs Selwyn's servant and one of the College boys who acted as Driver. A large party followed on foot, consisting of all the Maori and English on the College estate, scholars, farriers, farmers and workmen, headed by Mr Lloyd. The Bishop (on foot), Mrs Selwyn (on horseback) and Mr Abraham (on foot) brought up the rear: we were a very merry party, the native lads enjoying themselves much, running here and there just like an English School when let out of bounds for a run over the fields. The day was sultry and dusty in the extreme and I noticed that the natives had recourse to the flower of the flax to slacken their thirst when they became dry and parched from the sun and dust. I had the curiousity to try it myself, and bending down the lofty stalk I sucked the flower as I saw the Maories do, and I was agreeably surprised at obtaining from each flower a few drops of cool and very sweet liquid.

After a ride of two hours we reached the grand attraction of the day, the new school, which internally was beautifully decorated with evergreens and flowers hung in festoons through all the rooms. The house being protected by a deep verandah and the window frames removed, all the rooms presented a most cool aspect, exceeding refreshing and pleasant after our broiling ride. All the rank and fashion of Auckland were present and the scene was animated, striking and gay; indeed, dear Blanche thought she had not seen so gay an assemblage in England (the Colonists are certainly fond of smart, gay Clothing).

The proceedings were as follows: we had evening service (it was 1 o'clock) in the large room where were the dinner

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DECEMBER 1850

tables laid out for the feast which followed immediately. The Maori girls and boys, some 60 in all, sat down to this dinner consisting [of] huge pieces of roast beef, new potatoes, and then plumb puddings, the whole washed down by spring water. The young folk enjoyed themselves much: Rota and his wife and Henry 24 and his wife were of the number: Rota and Henry were the two senior pupils at St John's, and their two wives the senior pupils at Mrs Kissling's.

There are now two more Native lads engaged to two of the girls and it is the avowed plan of the Bishop to endeavour to train up an equal number of both sexes at each school in order that an educated Maori man may have an educated Maori wife. The two being well matched help and sustain one another and their progress is upward and their influence for good among their countrymen is yearly greater and more extensive.

Rota is an instance of this: he has advanced steadily in civilized habits and in several branches of education and last Sunday he had the happiness of receiving from the Bishop's own hands a cap and gown, being made a scholar of St John's in the presence of the whole College. He has been admitted to one of the "Eton" scholarships. Today in common with the rest of the Scholars (the rest are all English) he wore his "Academics" much to the wondering yet delighted astonishment of all the natives who saw him.

After dinner, during which as well as throughout the remainder of the day, there was no slight (but exceeding decorous) flirtations going forward between the young brown ladies and gentlemen, Mr Archdeacon Williams addressed them in Maori, which he spoke most fluently. Then came a very interesting scene: the girls were arranged in a row before the Bishop who addressed them (in Maori of course) in the most kind, affectionate manner, and after explaining the great ends in view for the establishment of St John's and the Girls' School, formally introduced to them the native portion of the members of the College according to their several occupations. First the printers and book

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SUCH SWEET MUSIC

binders came forward, six fine handsome and intelligent Maori lads from 10 years up to 22: these brought an offering to the Girls in the shape of books they had printed and bound with their own hands. After them the weavers and spinners were called up and they presented a large quantity of excellent cloth which they had spun and woven. Then the shoemakers gave a present according to their craft, and the farmers a quantity of fine fresh butter as the proceeds of their industry, and lastly the carpenters, two very fine young men, were summoned by his Lordship who said that their gift was the noble building in which we were assembled, for that a very large portion of the edifice had been made by their own hands.

All this proceeding excited considerable interest: when ended they gave us many specimens of their singing, English and Maori songs alternating, and certainly you might have gone to many an advertized concert in London and not heard such sweet music and such skilful management of the voice: the Evening hymn was sung (in English) and the Bishop's blessing concluded this very interesting "School Feast".

Blanche enjoyed herself much: she was fortunate in being several times near the Judge and Mrs Martin who were exceeding kind. The latter begged us to make their house a "house of refreshment" whenever we came into Auckland. The Bishop and Mrs Selwyn were also very polite and attentive and nothing occurred to mar our pleasure, and we all returned home about 8 o'clock, very tired but very delighted.

18. Started for Auckland at 8: a hot and dusty walk. As l neared Auckland saw a fine ship slowly entering our noble Harbour. Reached the Australian Bank at 10 and received some money sent from England.

Mr Thatcher (the Assistant Minister of St Paul's) met me and told me that the vessel I had seen was the Sir Edward Paget, straight from England. On board was a Miss Clinton, 25 a young lady of some private means who has come out to

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DECEMBER 1850

place herself and her property at the Bishop's disposal, she being anxious to assist in any work suitable to her sex and abilities. The Bishop had only last week received, by the Camilla, the announcement of the young lady's intention, and had been considerably puzzled what to do and how to employ her.

A cousin also of Mr Abraham's, 26 with his wife and 5 children, were on board. When I heard this I hurried back to Bishop's Auckland and reported as much to Mr Abraham and the Bishop, who immediately mounted their horses and went off to Auckland. Judge Martin and his excellent wife have offered to receive Miss Clinton as their guest for a while: the Bishop seemed anxious to see her for he fears she may have more of enthusiasm than discretion - more willing to do some "great work" (as she would think) than give herself to a routine of every day duties, which are so much needed to be performed but which make no grand show. It won't do for any one to come to New Zealand on the top of an impulse: it is too frothy - there is nothing about it substantial and fixed enough to keep them up.

Heard to my great sorrow that two of the young men in connection with St John's College had shown signs of intemperance in Auckland, late in the Evening yesterday, whither they had proceeded after "the feast" was all over, instead of returning with the main body of Students to St John's.

20. The Bishop is off again. Just as I reached the College for Morning Prayers he was taking his leave, so I was fortunate in being able to say farewell and assure him he would have our prayers for a prosperous journey and a safe and speedy return. He came on the 9th and is away on the 20th. What a life of locomotion: but how can he be stationary with the care of all the Churches of a country as large as Great Britain on his shoulders?

His Lordship is now on a home visitation, going to Otaki, Wellington, Nelson and Otago to set in order things that may *

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A FACE AT THE WINDOW

be wanting. Thence to Port Lyttleton to meet, if possible, the first body of the Canterbury Colonists and after that he intends to run down to the Chatham Islands, whence he hopes to bring 4 or 5 fresh students for St John's College.

He expressed the hope that on his return he should find me comfortably settled at Howick. I hope indeed he may. He is to be absent 3 months; if by that time we are not in residence I shall begin to despair of ever being settled. Mrs Dillon, however, is I hear a queer person, and is likely to be as troublesome about giving up the Parsonage as she possibly can. It was let to her before the Bishop knew he should have any clergyman to appoint to the Parish. She is the wife of the Hon. Mr Dillon (who is at present travelling with Sir George Grey in the south), the brother of Lord Dillon. We have two Honourables among our Colonists, the Hon. Mr Peter [Petre] at Wellington and the Hon. Mr Dillon here.

Gathered from the adjoining garden some nice alpine strawberries, fine young lettuces and carrots; thought how different was the state of gardens at this time of the year in England. Bought 9 large soles for one shilling from a Maori fisherman: he came to the cottage as we were at Family prayers. Seeing a shadow cast over the window I looked up and beheld a native's face, thickly tattooed, peering in at the opened window, gazing upon our group with considerable curiousity: he withdrew however immediately he guessed by our postures we were at prayers, and squatted down on the ground close by. When he saw us stirring he brought forward his basket and displayed his fish, and after a little bargaining I purchased his soles, which are most excellent eating. Gave him some tea and bread and treacle and he went his way a lighter and happier man.

22. Started at 6 on foot for Howick: reached Captain Smith's residence at 1/2 past 8 and had breakfast, most acceptable and refreshing. Found this Sunday Mrs Smith ill - last Sunday her husband was the invalid. She complained greatly of the musquitoes; these horrid little insects do not affect me at all, but poor Blanche and the children suffer from every sting

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DECEMBER 1850

they receive: so does Mrs Smith, but I think to a greater degree than any of us.

On my return home called on the Hon. Mrs Dillon: delighted to find that she was going to leave the Parsonage tomorrow: reached home at 5 greatly fatigued from the excessive heat.

23. Rode over to Howick and married my first couple in this new land. The Bridegroom when he placed the ring on my book, placed thereon at the same time "the accustomed duty to the Priest and Clerk".

Went over the Parsonage, now deserted, and was pleased to find it so comfortable a residence. From Paparoa rode to Epsom, frightfully hot for there was not today the accustomed breeze so refreshing and cooling in general. Took a bridle path from Panmure across the scoria: country wild, desolate and most oppressively solitary, and so difficult to pass over that my course was slow in the extreme. Heartily glad was I when I got off the scoria and Kirby, my little pony, seemed as pleased for she started off in a brisk hard canter and carried me thus to my friend Lusk's cottage.

Told him how soon we were going to Howick and urged him to secure a horse and cart, a cow and some fowls for me by the early part of next week.

25. Christmas Day. Magnificent summer weather, burning hot. Rode on an old pony belonging to the College, called General: reached Howick about 11 o'clock, half burnt up by the scorching sun. Congregation good: there was no parade today, so all the men were dressed as civilians: they never put on their regimentals but when obliged. My infant choir (infant not in years but in standing and members) sang an anthem appropriate to the day.

Too poorly after my exertion in the heat to enjoy my roast beef, and there was not for us a Christmas pudding: we had to content ourselves with a plumb cake.

26. The most important day to us: early this morning we left our temporary residence at Bishop's Auckland for what we hope will be our permanent abode at Howick. Blanche,

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WE MOVE TO HOWICK

the 4 children and Betsy started before breakfast in a cart, taking their breakfast with them. I followed some two hours afterwards with a dray and 6 bullocks and the cart and two horses, loaded with luggage. At the Ferry both dray and cart had to be unloaded, all my goods taken across and replaced on two carts awaiting them on the opposite side. This made my journey long, tedious and wearisome, and as I was obliged to walk most of the distance in a broiling sun, when I reached Howick I felt quite poorly. Found Blanche and the children delighted with the Parsonage and the fine extensive prospect from our verandah. All went to bed early and tired.

27. A pouring wet day accompanied with heavy gusts of wind: remained indoors all day arranging our furniture and taking counsel with dear Blanche as to the due appropriation of our rooms.

28. Captain Smith called upon us; went with him to Sergeant Pearce whom he told to resign the office of Schoolmaster to a Clerk, promising to make him a Staff Sergeant as a compensation for the loss of income. Captain Smith did this to enable me to enter upon my duties in this settlement free from all the party quarrels of the place, which some would have identified me with had Pearce continued in office under my patronage, so very bitter is the hostility manifested against him. I was sorry to lose his services for he seems a steady man and anxious to do his best in whatever he undertakes. I shall now, for the present, retain both offices in my own hands: be schoolmaster and clerk too.

29. First Sunday after Christmas. Dear Blanche and the two elder children entered my church of All Saints for the first time today. Blanche was pleased with the edifice and thought it very simple, very ecclesiastical, which all buildings appropriated to religious service in a new colony by no means invariably are.

After the Nicene creed gave the following notice: "At the request of the Bishop of the Diocese I shall open a School for the Children of Parents living in this settlement. The business

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DECEMBER 1850

of the School will commence on Monday the 6th of January next". I am to attend for 3 hours every day, Saturday excepted: viz. from 9 to 12. The Bishop thinks (and so think I) that 3 hours a day is enough for children to be pent up in a school house, poring over their books - and we think moreover that by this arrangement we shall retain the boys under training for a much longer period, for they will be able to attend the school and yet help their parents by work for many hours in the day: there will not therefore be the necessity or the excuse to remove a boy entirely from school for the sake of a little work as is so often the case when the schooling occupies the whole day.

30. Started with Blanche in a cart drawn by one horse and driven by a little hump back boy, for Auckland. Progress was very slow: at the Ferry we had to take out the horse and push the cart into the punt; the horse was very shy of entering and it was with difficulty he was partly coaxed and partly forced in. When we reached the other side and the animal was harnessed he suddenly started off at full gallop; fortunately neither Blanche or myself or our little hump backed driver were in or we should have been much injured, for in spite of holes and ruts and stumps of trees, on and on the horse rushed, the cart banging and thumping after him, threatening every moment to be dashed to pieces.

At length he was stopt at Panmure and when we were somewhat reassured as to his quietude, we took our place once more in the cart and reached our destination in safety. Our visit was for the purpose of laying in stores of sugar, rice and tea, &c., to last for 6 months at the least, there being so much difficulty in obtaining at Howick necessaries of life with any certainty. Most goods come to Howick from Auckland by water and when the wind is adverse no ship can approach the Howick coast: so that if one depended for supplies on the boats which occasionally sail between the two places, one might be "hard up" at times for even bread and cheese. Our luggage has been weatherbound ever since last Thursday and if the wind change not for the next week to come, we shall

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SMASHED TO ATOMS

be so much longer without any furniture to make the Parsonage habitable: but what a plight we should have been in had the vessel contained our eatables instead of our books and beds and chairs.

Left Auckland about 4 with the cart heavily laden. Fortunately reached Panmure just as it was getting dusk and so managed to reach Howick side of the shore while it was as yet sufficiently light to see our landing and our road. Here again the horse on being reharnessed reared, plunged and tried to run away. Blanche and I took care to keep ourselves out of harm's way but... [MS. tattered and illegible] our purchases which might be much injured by the violent bumps and thumps they were now receiving. On one terrific plunge which the wretched horse made, a large stone jar containing two gallons of vinegar which Blanche had just purchased, hoping it would last us for 12 months or more, was tossed out of the cart and smashed to atoms on the stones of the landing place, and at the same moment our poor little hump back was pitched over the cart wheel and lay sprawling on the ground. For a few minutes I thought horse, cart and all my goods would have been lost in the sea for he was backing in his plunges and there were now but a few inches between the wheels and the waves.

Most providentially, just now we obtained the assistance of a strong and powerful man (who proved to be the Howick policeman) who seized the horse's head and by great skill managed to quiet the beast and get him to start quietly on his way. It was a long time ere I could persuade Blanche to get into the cart, but as the Policeman took the driver's place and promised to see us safe home, she at last consented, and for a time all went well with us. But night came on and the rain descended and the wind blew, joined to which we had to stop every now and then to ascertain that we were in the road, for we could not see a yard before us, and then in momentary dread of an upset and with a bitter storm pelting around us, moved on slowly and wearily to our destination which we reached at 1/2 past 9 - 5 whole hours and a half coming but 15 miles.

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DECEMBER 1850-JANUARY 1851

31. Called upon Henderson the policeman to thank him again for his kind attention last night; without his aid we might have been 3 or 4 hours longer. Learnt from him that the horse I had hired had not been accustomed to a cart, and that Searl, its owner, ought to be ashamed of himself for letting it out to me and for sending such a poor cripple with such an unruly animal.

3 January 1831. Johnson brought our first instalment of furniture: so that this evening our bed room began to assume a somewhat comfortable appearance. We no longer shall sleep on the boards, for we have now a handsome string bedstead made of Matta wood and little Charlie a pretty crib by our side to match.

6. In the evening received a note from Mr Lusk requesting me to see him as soon as possible about some Bank of England notes which I had given him to pay for my cattle and which the Bank at Auckland had refused to accept.

7. Directly after breakfast walked down to Watson's cottage and hired his horse, and rode off to Epsom and arranged with him that a Mr Brown should have all the notes I had at 5 1/2 per cent, and thus on these hard terms the £200 I had in notes is worth to me but £190. This was a sad loss and heartily did I wish I had brought all my money in gold and silver instead of Paper.

8. Busy unpacking all today. Sergeant Nicholas made a strong stock yard adjoining my cow shed for the safe custody of my cow when she arrives.

10. Johnson brought the remains of my furniture together with a churn, milk pans, and various articles needful in a dairy. Our house begins to look exceeding comfortable, and more and more do I regret that my dear Mother and others of my relatives and friends are so far distant as to be unable to drop in and congratulate us on the truly English look of our grounds and abode.

11. Early this morning walked to Panmure to meet Mr Lusk whom I expected to bring me my cow and horse. Just beyond

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TWO PRETTY KITTENS

the village saw my recent purchases, Jessie (the mare) walking smartly along, and Jenny (the cow) tied to the cart and coming along most unwillingly. Mr Lusk was on horseback, walking after Jenny to coax and urge her onward, and I jumped into the cart to shew Mr Lusk's man the way, and mightily pleased I was with both cow and horse. We reached Howick at 1/2 past 12, and no sooner had we entered the back paddock, than out streamed the four little children in considerable excitement to view the new arrivals, and highly delighted was little Mary when I handed to her from the cart a small basket containing two very pretty kittens, which Miss Lusk sent as a present for the children.

Mr Lusk was exceedingly delighted with Howick in general and my residence in particular - he said he had not seen so pretty a place in New Zealand. Had at tea some milk from our own cow - this being the first time; we all pronounced it most excellent though it must have been as inferior in quality as it was deficient in quantity, owing to the long fatiguing journey the poor creature had taken during the day.

13. Opened my School: had Girls, 15; Boys, 12: Total - 27, including Blanny and Charlotte. In the afternoon dear Blanche had all the girls from 1/2 past 2 till 4, for work. This is a voluntary work of charity on her part.

15. Immediately after School we locked up our house and all of us went to Captain Smith's for tea. This was the first time we had tried our horse and cart, and highly delighted were the children with the ride in "Papa's own cart".

Jessie went very quietly and Blanche, who is rather timid about horses, felt quite satisfied that our good horse was trustworthy - many of the horses in New Zealand have been badly trained and have more or less tricks and vice about them - Jessie seems quite free from either.

Captain Smith's residence is quite in the bush and the drive after we left the "highway" and struck into the bullocks' track was quite novel to Betsy and the children. After an exceeding rough ride, the jolts and thumps and bumps at one time amusing and the next moment alarming the children, we

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JANUARY 1851

met Captain Smith and his wife not far from their residence, they having come to meet us in order to pilot us to their new house which is being built about a mile from their present temporary raupo cottage.

Their new house is very large, handsome and commodious - the drawing room well positioned and lofty, and lighted by a noble bay window opening upon one of the finest verandahs we have yet seen. The prospect from their verandah though ranging over an immense tract of land, is tame and uninteresting after the exceeding pretty view we have from ours, and indeed Captain Smith never visits us without regretting having left so charming a spot. When we got back to their raupo cottage we found a substantial tea ready which the children not a little enjoyed, soon after which we took our departure being anxious to get clear of the fern before sun set lest we should be in danger of losing the track. Thanks however to a Kind Providence we all arrived home in safety, little Mary and Charlie having slept soundly at the bottom of the cart almost the whole of the way home.

28. Began to learn to milk Jenny, who is becoming quite at home in my good paddocks and is very much tamer than when she first arrived.

Wanting many things from Auckland and not yet having a man for the whole of the day I harnessed Jessie to the cart and, dressed in my cassock coat, drove her into Town. It was the very first time I had acted in all respects as my own carter, but necessity I had always understood had no laws, neither did I see any great harm in driving a cart. But not so some whimsical man who met me as I entered Auckland and who, walking up to my horse's head, stopt me to my no small surprise and enquired whose cart and horse that was, and who I was.

To which I replied, "And pray, Sir, who are you that I should answer such questions?" To which he replied: "That does not signify to you, but I deem it a shame and a disgrace to see a reverend gentleman driving a cart." "And pray my good friend," I said, "wherein lies the disgrace; my family

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NO RIGHT TO GRUMBLE

needs the necessaries of life and I am coming to Town to procure them." "Oh Sir," he rejoined, "you should send your Servant, you should not drive yourself." "Ah, say you so," I said: "Very good indeed; are you a Presbyterian or a Church man?" "Me, Sir - I am a Church man."

"Then just listen to me - if you laymen of the Church did your duty as God blessed you, towards the maintenance of your Clergy, I doubt not I should be enabled to keep a Servant and I here promise you that in such a case I will send my Servant to the market and not drive the cart myself - but the majority of you don't give a sixpence to the Church and therefore have no right to grumble if you do see your Clergy driving carts, and I for my part will drive my cart whether you like it or not. Take your hand off my horse and good morning, Sir," - and off I drove.

This annoyed me a little at first, but when I came to mention it to a few people they thought the man must have been tipsy or mad, for it was no new thing to see a Clergyman riding in a cart as I was - I was not walking by the side of the horse but having long reins was sitting and driving - if instead of a cart I had been driving a four-wheel my whimsical friend, I suppose, would have stopped me to say what a disgrace it was to see the Clergy becoming so luxurious. My cart harness is very handsome, mounted with brass.

28. Natives brought peaches for sale. Blanche bought a bucket full for a shilling.

31. Blanche busy today making peach jam: most delicious. I forgot to mention that Blanche manages our Dairy entirely by herself without help of any sort from anyone - and delicious butter it is; our good Jenny supplies us with as much milk as we can drink and we are not sparing of it I can assure you, and gives us more butter than we can consume. She is a great pet with the children. We have now a horse, cow, a dog and two cats.

1 February. Arose at 5. As usual had some trouble in getting Betsy up. Our new man John [Bridgeford] came at 6. After

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witnessing the milking of Jenny, which I make a point of doing if I am at home at the time, wrote sermon for tomorrow. Immediately after breakfast sent John with the horse and cart to Pigeon Hill for scoria, to pave the passage Jenny takes across the stream in my fields. Then, accompanied by my four little children I went to my Church and Blanny and I put it in order for tomorrow, there being no clerk, no sexton, no pew opener, everything connected with the due celebration of Divine service devolves upon me. So Blanny and I spent a very busy hour in dusting and sweeping the Church. On our return home examined the two older ones in the lessons they had learnt during the week past. Had for dinner some pumpkin soup and most delicious it was; Charlie who has become surprisingly fat, brown, and forward, enjoyed it exceedingly.

After dinner took Jessie and the cart another trip to Pigeon Hill for another load of scoria. John accompanied me and so did the 4 children to their infinite delight. Enjoyed some fine peaches on their way thither, which Mama had thoughtfully put into the cart. Found our ride much longer than I had expected, the road taking a long circuit in order to avoid a large swamp which lies between Howick and the hill. While John and I were busy throwing the stones into the cart, poor little Charlotte fell down and cut her forehead severely; and on the way back when near our home Charlie fell out of the cart, but thanks to a kind Providence neither Charlotte or Charlie seemed much or any the worse for their mishaps by the time they went to bed.

While we were absent and Blanche and Betsy busy in the kitchen, a party of Natives brought baskets of peaches and walking through without any ceremony far into the Kitchen, pressed Blanche to purchase their fruit. This she repeatedly and firmly declined to do, upon which they squatted down on the floor and coolly lighting their pipes began to smoke, intending as Blanche thought to try to tice her into becoming a buyer, but Blanche was firm and though she wished them out of the house and found their nasty pipes intolerable, she said not a word, and after a long, long pause, during which time

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A MOST DISGUSTING INSECT

they made good use of their eyes in observing all that Blanche and Betsy did as well as everything in the kitchen, they rose to go, and trying once more to induce Blanche to buy, they took themselves off, much to the infinite satisfaction of dear Blanche.

3. Arose very early; Blanche made our week's supply of butter before breakfast. I milked the cow and put up a canvas screen to the pantry window to keep out the New Zealand Fly, a most disgusting insect, for seldom does it settle upon any food for a second, but it leaves behind some two or three maggots.

Soon after breakfast Mrs Smith came to show Blanche how to make bread with artificial balm [sic]. She staid dinner, Captain Smith arriving a few minutes before we sat down. Had pumpkin soup and roast pork - peach tart and sago pudding. Captain Smith purchased 200 peaches for 2/0. As they sat under the verandah after dinner, enjoying the cool sea breeze, listening to the distant murmur of the sea and gazing upon the extensive and varied prospect stretching out before us, they seemed really to regret that the house was no longer theirs, and that they had ever left so sweet a spot.

5. While Blanche and I were absent for a short time from home, Betsy was considerably alarmed by missing dear little Charlie and therefore searched for him all over and around about the house, and could not find him. At last her trouble turned into joy by discovering him at a considerable distance from the house down in a deep gully (as the ravines are here called), stumping along with a small stick in his hand with which he was driving before him a large flock of turkeys. Unconscious of his danger he was evidently not a little pleased with breaking bounds and chasing before him such noisy strutting birds.

Enjoyed at tea milk from my own cow and bread from my own oven, both of first rate quality. She will soon repay me for the 11 £ I laid out in purchasing her: with milk at /6d a quart and salt butter 1/0 a lb and often 1/6 or 2/0, our cow

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saves a weekly expense which would be no slight one with our family.

7. Arose at 1/2 past 4. Blanche and our second daughter, dear little Charlotte, much to her joy, started in the cart at 7 for Auckland. John was dressed in a clean white smock frock and Jessie and the harness looked bright and clean; as they left my premises and I shut the gate wishing them many a goodbye, I thought my "equipage" looked very respectable indeed. This being little Mary's birthday she had for her tea an egg all to herself, which pleased her as much as though it had been a far more extravagant present.

8. One of the most sultry days I have ever felt. After breakfast went with Blanny, Mary and Charlie to work in the fields but we were speedily driven in by the fierce sun. Did not attempt to stir again till the afternoon. Dear Mama and Charlotte returned in time for an early cup of tea. There was good report of Jessie's performance and John's steadiness.

10. After School I had Jessie saddled and rode off to Captain Smith's. Had luncheon off some cheese of their own making: about the third time only I have tasted cheese since I landed. Mrs Smith on her pony accompanied me to St John's College for our lesson in singing. When within a mile of the College we got wet through by a sudden but violent shower: when we reached St John's the ground was quite dry, they had not felt a drop fall. Mrs Smith was soon attired in Mrs Abraham's gown and I in Mr Abraham's cassock, so we escaped the unpleasantness of sitting in wet clothes. Mr Purchas did not come so our journey was in vain.

I spent our short stay in calling upon Mrs Augustus Abraham who, with her children, is occupying the cottage we resided in on our first arrival. Mr Augustus Abraham has gone to New Plymouth on some business: on his return he proposes residing in or near Auckland and pursuing his practise as a Barrister. After seeing Mrs Abraham, stept in to see my former good neighbour, Rachel and her daughter Dinah: found her extremely ill, I fear dying - poor little Dinah knew

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THE ACCUSTOMED OFFERING

me not and instead of running to me as she used, ran away screaming.

13. Bought 4 fine large eels for /6d. Blanche made and baked 18 lbs of bread which proved most excellent eating, the artificial balm answering well and rendering the bread very light.

16. Church better attended than I had heretofore seen it. Had a Christening after Second Lesson in the afternoon: churched the Mother of the Babe and demanded 1/0 as the "accustomed offering", stating in the most explicit manner that as the fees would in no case belong to me but were to be handed over to the Episcopal Fund I should insist upon them being paid. The woman demurred at first, but when I stated that I considered myself answerable to the Bishop for all the fees due to the Church and that if I excused her on my own responsibility without sufficient reason I should feel I ought to pay her fee myself, she forthwith handed me the 1/0 - which I gladly accepted, thinking that thereby I saved at least 1/0 from the capacious and well filled pocket of Lewis the publican.

The evening was one of the most glorious I have ever enjoyed. There was a cool but gentle breeze, most refreshing after the extreme heat of the day, and a moon which shed such a flood of bright, silvery light over land and sea that every object for a long, long distance around was discernable and all looked lovely and enchanting. In the far distance were the Mungamungaroa hills rising dark and blue against the bright moon-lit sky; at the base of this grand range of high land lay Shouraky Bay glittering with a long, broad streak of silvery light, while nearer to us shone the tiny lamp of the Public House which is situated on our own beach and which always presents a pleasing object - something for the eye to rest upon - something to tell us there is a habitation and life along that long range of dark and winding coast.

17. Heard this morning that John Roycroft, one of my little scholars, had fallen last night into a well and was drowned;

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while Blanche and I were so happy in the possession of our little laughing children last night, little did we think of the deep sorrow one of our near neighbours was experiencing by a sudden bereavment of their youngest child. After School called upon the afflicted parents: the inquest was sitting, so rapid the change coming over the corpse that at 4 o'clock today it was necessary to bury the dead out of our sight.

23. After evening service I walked to St John's College which I reached about 1/4 to 8. Attended the Unity Service: it was quite a treat to hear the beautiful chaunting of the College choir, and seemed quite natural to kneel within the walls of the College Chapel. Mrs Selwyn being absent on a visit to Judge Martin at Remuera, I was accommodated most comfortably by occupying the Bishop's room.

24. Awake early: started up thinking I had to get up to milk our good cow, Jenny. When however I saw where I was, turned over and went fast asleep again.

At 12 o'clock the College Council assembled for the transaction of business: while they were sitting I and Captain Smith and Mr Nihill took a ramble over a portion of the estate: saw Mrs Augustus Abraham - very ill and in low spirits - said she was disappointed in New Zealand - disliked the climate; called it nothing but a scorching sun and a freezing breeze.

Mr Abraham, Lloyd, Thatcher and myself after some consultation formed ourselves into a committee to prepare a series of elementary school books for the use of Parochial schools for the Diocese, to be published under our sanction at our own risk and at the College press: the beginning of the N. Z. S. P. C. K. 27 Had an early cup of tea and returned to Howick with Captain and Mrs Smith, they kindly giving me a seat in their carriage, if I may so dignify a handsome cart on light springs.

28. It was 6 o'clock when I reached Mr Lusk's and right glad I was to sit down to a substantial tea, not having had anything

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FICKLE MISS CLINTON

except a crust of bread and a glass of wine since 8 in the morning. Pressed Miss Lusk to come and spend a fortnight with us at Howick, but found her unable to leave home in consequence of her being obliged to attend to her Father's dairy through the loss of the servant they brought out with them from England. Like almost all the servants who come out under the auspices of a Master and Mistress, she had proved to them anything but a comfort and a help - and now she is gone to "Better herself".

It was quite dark when I left my kind and hospitable friends but a rapid walk of 3 miles along a capital Macadamized road soon brought me to the confines of Auckland where the gleaming lights of numerous shops lighted me sufficiently to find my way to the Parsonage of St John's Church that is to be. To my joy I saw through opened windows Mr and Mrs Thatcher sitting comfortable at their tea. They had partly expected me and had prepared a bed for me in Mr Thatcher's study, so we sat up till late chatting - telling and hearing all the news we could remember.

Learnt that Miss Clinton who came out in the Sir Edward Paget so nobly (?) to do such great things, to throw herself and money at the Bishop's feet, had determined to return to England in the William Hyde. She came to make herself useful in any way the Bishop could employ her. Well - what could she do - would she teach? No, she hated teaching and could not bear the noise of children. Would she work? No, needlework was her abomination. Would she take care of some native's children? No, she could not endure the Maories: thought them rude, dirty animals. Would she try to edit books for schools, or write some for parochial circulation? No, it was too much trouble. Well - what would she do? She had come 17,000 miles to do something - what was the something to be? Nothing. So she returns in a fortnight's time: and I presume that Mrs Selwyn, the Judge and Mrs Martin - who has most kindly received and entertained her during the whole of her stay in New Zealand - will be most truly thankful when this fickle and eccentric fair one is once more on board a ship.

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Mr Thatcher told me it was said that the Bishop had but one "trump card" to his hand and that that he had given to Mr Lush. Certainly I have reason to be pleased. One little circumstance came to my knowledge which is cheering and satisfactory - a Mr Blackett, one of the very few "Esquires" in Auckland, came over to Howick a few Sundays ago and attended the morning Service: on his return he stopped at the College and told Mr Abraham that he was so pleased with all he had seen and heard at Howick Church and particularly with the behaviour of the Children, that he intended to present £5 of books and maps as a present to the Howick School. This pleased me much for we are in sad want of school materials. Mr Blackett came out to New Zealand in his own yacht and lives in the neighbourhood of Auckland - having (from all accounts) the prettiest and most highly cultivated garden in the Colony. He lives on his property which report says is "3000 a year". His brother is a Baronet in England.

Heard that Canterbury is likely to fail in its original distinctive features, but would in all probability be highly successful as an important and flourishing settlement.

1 March. Breakfasted at Mr Thatcher's where I had slept. Had at the close of the meal a fine melon - most grateful fruit this hot weather.

Heard that Mrs Selwyn had lost suddenly her little daughter 28 - who died after a few hours' illness. Called at the College to offer my condolences to Mrs Selwyn. She bears her loss nobly as she does every trouble.

3. Being wet, excused myself from going to the College to meet Mr Purchas and Thatcher respecting the drawing up of a series of National School Books suited for the Colony. Spent the afternoon at home instructing my little girls. The Evening proving fine, visited several of my Parishioners.

8. Just before tea Captain and Mrs Smith and Mr Nihill, the Junior Fellow of St John's College, called upon us. He

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CHEERLESS AND COMMON

brought the following note from Mr Abraham: "We missed your help on Monday - we decided on a set of large cards - and 1st Book to be got up by Mr Lloyd out of V. Short's (Bishop of St. Asaph's) first book - and we also proposed that you should do the next book, basing it on the Irish 2nd book, with the additions you propose out of your book which you spoke of. Next Monday we are to talk of an arithmetic book and Scripture books." So I did not escape from my share of the work by shirking the meeting last Monday.

15. Milked Jenny at break of day, and at 7 started on Jessie for Auckland. Crossed the Tamaki in safety at 8 and passed St John's College about 9, shaking hands with poor Rota whom I met in the road. He begins to look a little more cheerful but the loss of his little baby was a sad blow.

From Auckland went to Epsom and arrived at my friend Lusk's just as they were sitting down to dinner. Had some capital salt beef for which he had paid only 2d a lb. After dinner we had some fine melons which I did not thoroughly enjoy for want of sugar.

Thence I proceeded to Onehunga to see Mr and Mrs Warrington whom I had not yet seen in their own house. What a change the being obliged to turn working colonists had wrought in them! Mrs Warrington, who had seemed such a fine lady on board the Barbara Gordon, was as hard at work in the fields as any labouring woman in a village in England could have been - and her husband working yet more diligently. They seemed pleased to see me, and though their cottage and its furniture in general seemed cheerless and common after my own "sweet home", I was glad to find them settled so far as they were and in good heart as respects the future. Mrs Warrington makes butter which they sell at Auckland, and Mr Warrington tends the cows, cultivates the land (he has 8 acres) and attends to a few patients he has in the neighbourhood.

I had tea with them and then hastened back to Howick, reaching the Ferry just at sun set; directly the sun sets here the light ceases and if there be no moon it becomes dark

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immediately. Fortunately for me there was a moon near the full shining so brightly in the clear dark blue sky that you might have read the smallest print by its mild light: so I had a pleasant gallop from the Ferry to Howick and reached my pretty, snug Parsonage in time for a comfortable supper which my good wife had thoughtfully prepared for me.

18. Had dinner at 12, immediately after which mounted Jessie and rode to a Mr Hargreaves, a settler about 3 miles from Howick. He is one of my most respectable and I suppose he is the wealthiest of my parishioners. Four years ago he was the only settler on this side of the Tamaki! He had then a fine farm of 200 acres fenced, cleared and laid down in grass. Then came the Pensioners with their wives and children and Hargreaves found a ready sale for his butter at 2/6 a lb, and for his milk at 1/0 a quart. He consequently made money fast. Since that time he has bought 200 acres more and been fortunate enough to let his first farm, stocked with 50 cows, for 200 £ a year.

I thought his house most prettily situated - it is well sheltered with trees, a thing so many of the houses greatly need. He was out and his wife had but yesterday been confined with her second child, a little boy, so after leaving Blanche's and my cards I was soon on my way to Captain Smith's to enquire after Mrs Smith whom I was sorry to find very unwell indeed. Had a long chat with the Captain - he thinks the situation of his present abode unhealthy and regretted as usual that he had parted with the house we have; talked of leaving New Zealand altogether at the end of seven years - the period the Pensioners and their Officers must serve in order to entitle them to the land allotted by government.

20. As I started from home today about 2 o'clock on a round of visits among my people, learnt that Captain Smith's raupo cottage had been burnt down that morning and every thing belonging to them utterly destroyed. I hastened back and ordered John to saddle Jessie, and dear Blanche being

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CONSUMED BY FIRE

absent at the Girls' School I gave Betsy directions to get a bed ready in the children's room for the Captain and his wife.

I had not galloped through the village ere I was stopt by one of the good women of the place who told me that Captain and Mrs Smith had just passed along the Ridge road on their way, she presumed, to the Parsonage. Upon this I raced back and came up to my gate just as they drove up in their cart, poor Mrs Smith greatly agitated and with literally nothing on but her night dress and her husband's large military cloak. She was still suffering from her recent illness and had not dressed when the fire broke out at 11 o'clock, and the raupo being very dry and in that state highly combustible, the whole was consumed in some ten minutes.

Mrs Smith could not save anything but her Bible for it was as much as she could do to rush from her bed into the fern. All their furniture, clothes, plate, jewellry, presents and farewell gifts gone, and what poor Mrs Smith seemed to lament more than all, a portrait of her mother. I went for Blanche who immediately dismissed her little Scholars and hastened back with me and we exerted ourselves to make them as comfortable as we could. For Rhoda, their servant, we procured a bed in a neighbour's cottage but she is to board and remain with us for the present. This is a sad blow for the Smiths and I fear it will be a long time ere they recover from their severe loss. At Tea she appeared in Blanche's dress and clothes - she seemed sadly out of spirits.

21. Captain Smith rode over to Auckland leaving Mrs Smith with us. Blanche gave her a bonnet and lent her a shawl and she went out into the village to visit a cottage where they had fortunately stowed away a few of their goods, and which therefore were left to them. Found among other articles a dress, so she speedily returned Blanche's.

24. Captain and Mrs Smith left immediately after breakfast for their farm to fix upon the site for two rooms which he has determined to build as quickly as possible and in which they will live until such times as their new large house shall be completed and handed over to them by the Government.

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After School I rode to the Ferry where I met according to appointment Captain and Mrs Smith. The former returned to his farm, the latter accompanied me to St John's College. There she was most kindly received and many condolences expressed to her from all around. There are no Insurance Societies in New Zealand, so that a fire accompanied with the utter destruction of all one's property, except cows, horses and pigs, is a serious affair.

Captain Smith did not return tonight, he pitched a tent in his own field and intends to bivouac there till the cottage of two rooms is finished, when Mrs Smith will join him. She remains for the present at the College - that refuge for the desolate, that asylum for the afflicted, that seat of sound learning and useful industry.

28. Bought of a native woman 96 good sized fish for sixpence - the whole household feasted off fish to their heart's content. On my return home this evening from visiting a few of my Parishioners, found the dining room table covered with English Newspapers.

29. About a hour before dinner who should come on horseback but Mr and Mrs Warrington, the Lady looking remarkably well in her habit and wideawake cap. They staid dinner and tea, and were delighted with my Parish in general and with our Parsonage and grounds in particular. They did not know little Charlie, he has grown so tall and fat and strong since we came here. Mrs Warrington thought dear Blanche's Dairy the neatest, cleanest and most complete of any she has seen in New Zealand. They also commended her butter and enjoyed her bread, in making of both of which I must say dear Blanche greatly excells.

Had a note from Mrs Smith saying she should remain at the College for the present. Rhoda, her servant, is still with us and more plague than profit she proves to be.

30. This being Betsy's birthday (she is 16) we had a plumb pudding and gave her, Rhoda and John a glass of wine each. A change for the better is, I trust, come over Betsy; 6 weeks

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NEWS FROM THE BISHOP

ago I thought we must have turned her away she was so exceedingly perverse and troublesome. Latterly she has been very much better in all respects. We think Rhoda's visit will do her good so far as to render her somewhat more satisfied with her situation, for on comparing notes one with another, and from what Betsy has reported to Blanche, I presume she sees clearly enough that she might easily get a worse place than ours.

5 April. Went to Auckland in my cart, accompanied with John. Bought 200 lbs of flour - very dear, £2 for the 200. Brought back also 20 lbs of mutton which proved an immense treat for several days as we were all getting somewhat tired of pork, the meat chiefly sold in Howick.

7. Dismissed my School at 11 and started on foot forthwith for St John's College which by dint of hard walking I reached just in time for Hall at 2 o'clock. Met Mrs Smith who is looking well and talks of returning to our house on Friday next.

Mrs Selwyn has heard from the Bishop. He reached Port Cooper in time to see the first body of settlers land at Canterbury and then sailed for the Auckland Islands. After leaving Stewart Island, the southermost land of the New Zealand group, he was overtaken by a terrific storm, so violent that they were forced to lie to for 50 hours, the time the storm lasted. During this time the frail little vessel was drifting helplessly before the wind and at last to the consternation of all on board they found themselves approaching a reef of rocks, the striking upon which would be certain destruction.

The Bishop seeing no way of escape resigned himself to what he thought was the intention of Providence, and never expected to see Mrs Selwyn again in this world; but most marvellous to say, just in the nick of time the wind suddenly veered round into the opposite quarter to blow them away from the very danger towards which it had been the minute before so furiously driving. The ship Undine was too much strained to venture further south so the Bishop sailed back

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to New Zealand, and after visiting many stations along the coast arrived once more at Port Cooper in time to welcome Dr Jackson to his new Diocese.

16. Read of the departure of the William Hyde. By this ship the Honble Miss Clinton returns to her friends. What a strange freak was that of hers - coming thus far to do anything and then returning without having done one single thing, and what is more strange - seeing anything of the Colony itself, for I hear she kept herself closely retired in her own room at the Judge's. She either miscalculated her strength of mind or suffered herself to be swayed by mere feeling, and she found the stern realities of an active philanthropic life more difficult to bear than her zeal and wishes had led her to imagine or expect.

17. Dear little Charlie's birthday. Though it were Lent we had to commemorate the event a stewed beef steak and baked plum pudding: and after dinner a glass of wine between all the children over which they drank one another's health.

Having paid some Pastoral visits before dinner I worked in my Garden all the afternoon. One of the Pensioners was working for me in my Yard - suddenly I heard the bugle sound - an unusual sound on a week day: as I was pausing in my work to consider what it could mean, I perceived Captain McDonald in his regimentals galloping about the village, calling the men to arms. Bridgeford 29 ran from the yard to me saying he must be off: I asked "What's the matter?" but he knew not, only that they were to assemble under arms on the top of a hill over-looking Howick and the whole neighbouring country.

I forthwith ran into the house - dressed - and went thither myself, where I found the men mustering fast and Captain McDonald pacing up and down on his horse. He came forward and very kindly read to me the letter he had just received from Auckland - from which it appears that the natives had come into the Town in such numbers and so well

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DANGER OF AN OUTBREAK

armed and disposed to be so very troublesome that the Government felt it necessary to call out the military. It appears that a Maori was taken up for stealing - this man was a slave and his master, a chief, being in the Town at the time, opposed his being put into the "lock up", upon which the police put both chief and slave in durance vile. Upon the Governor being informed of this, he ordered the Master to be immediately liberated, but the servant to remain in close custody. This however did not satisfy the chief and to liberate his slave as well, I suppose, as to take vengeance for the indignity put upon himself, he went away to his stronghold up the country and returned yesterday with 400 followers, all well armed. The slave was removed from the Lock Up to the jail and the soldiers placed on guard around it.

I hastened back to tell dear Blanche all this, but she had already heard an exaggerated account and was horribly alarmed as she had been told the Maories were actually marching upon Howick. It was no little relief to her to have a correct and less terrifying account from me; but we all felt far from comfortable, and when after tea we heard the bugle sounding again I determined to saddle Jessie and ride off to the hill to learn further news. My man John being away on his duty, Betsy helped me to saddle my horse, but ere I could do so Captain McDonald rode up to our gate to tell me he had just received information that the Maoris had suddenly quitted Auckland and that all danger of an outbreak with them was now over for the present.

18. It appears that the sudden departure of the warlike natives from Auckland resulted from the energetic measures adopted by Sir George Grey. He ordered out the 58th Regiment, the Artillery, and the Sappers and Miners, and then went to the old enraged Chief and warned him that if within two hours they did not launch their canoes and return to their homes, the Artillery should open fire upon them from the land, and the guns of the Fly be directed on them from the sea. They hesitated for some time, but after giving some vent to their excitable feelings by dancing their war dance, the heavy war

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canoes were dragged down the long flat beach, and by 3 o'clock Auckland was freed from their presence.

The first Good Friday I have ever past without hot cross buns.

21. Started about 11 o'clock on my good horse Jessie for St John's College. At the Ferry overtook a party of Natives going to Orakei, a Kainga situated on the Koromarama creek close by the College, where I heard the war party from Auckland had encamped. They said they were going to take part in the War dance which was going to be repeated this afternoon. One expressed himself as very sorry that the natives had not come to blows with the Pakehas; though belonging to a different tribe to that of which the insulted chief was head he would not himself have taken any part in the affray.

A little beyond Panmure met Mr Lloyd who walked with me to the College. Learnt to my great surprise that the Bishop had returned; he came home last Tuesday. Found his Lordship looking remarkably well and in good spirits. Mrs Abraham still very poorly. Mrs Martin and the Judge were there and after dinner there was a pleasant party of us seated on the north (the sunny side) of the College Chapel: the Bishop and Mrs Selwyn, the Judge and Mrs Martin, Mr and Mrs Abraham, Mr Purchas, Mr Lloyd and myself. We sat talking for two hours, the Bishop giving us scraps of his late journey. When I left he promised to come to Howick at an early date.

As I crossed the Ferry I heard that dispatches had been forwarded to Captain Smith to call the Pensioners out, so I hastened back to allay any alarm dear Blanche might feel, but fortunately the bugle had not sounded and all was quiet, peaceful, and in the bright light of the rising moon looked very lovely.

22. Upwards of 20 large war canoes passed Howick today, going towards the Thames: so I presume the warriors have left the neighbourhood of Auckland. It is reported that the Governor gave them a handsome present of tobacco and

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CROSSING THE SCORIA

blankets &c. as a compensation for the affront put upon their chief. I daresay this was all they cared for and what all along they expected.

25. Being a Saint's day - St Mark's - had a whole holiday, so I took advantage of my liberty and started early for Epsom. Crossed, for the second time only, the Scoria, a most remarkable tract of country - wild, desolate and frightful. Jessie had great difficulty in maintaining her footing over the huge, loose masses of stone and I think I shall never adventure her knees in such a rough path again.

Reached the Lusks' raupo about 9; turned Jessie loose in Mr Lusk's well-clothed paddock, and finding that he had gone to inspect work in progress on his new farm, wended my way thither in search of him; we had a pleasant chat and he put me on the road to "the Pah", the seat of Mr Symonds 30 who called on me when we were living at the cottage in St John's College, and whose visit I had not yet returned. A pleasant but rather laborious uphill walk at last brought me to a spacious well-built cottage, perched amid fine trees on the summit of a lofty hill, whence there were most extensive and interesting views, the most pleasing being that overlooking the Pensioner settlement of Onehunga beyond which one could trace some of the creeks of Manukau stretching, as the Bishop described, like the fingers of a great hand as if feeling for the opposite waters of the Tamaki.

Lieutenant Symonds was from home, but I saw Mrs Symonds and her baby, her firstborn, being nursed by a very pretty Maori woman. From the Symonds' called upon Captain Haultain with whom I had a long talk on farming operations and received many valuable hints on the management of land and stock. Thence returned to the Lusks' to dinner, after which walked to Onehunga and called upon Major Kenny, thus discharging several debts of civility which had long pressed upon my conscience.

28. Jessie being engaged in drawing fire wood from the forest I walked to St John's College. Heard that the Bishop's

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APRIL-MAY 1851

late journey to the South was in many respects a very unhappy one: he found the work of religion in general retrograding among the natives. Some of the old chiefs who were anxious for the improvement of their people had died and been succeeded by others who cared for none of these things: several schools (native) had been abandoned and the whole state of things was at a low ebb. The natives also were dying off very fast, everywhere the deaths far out-numbering the births - this was a source of deep grief to his Lordship. Joined to all this the Europeans at Wellington had treated him very badly.

6 May. Today had been appointed for the grand annual review of all the Pensioners by Colonel Wyndham, 31 and Captain and Mrs Smith had invited a large party of Officers and Ladies from Auckland to partake of luncheon in the court house, which Captain Smith had had altered for the occasion, but the expectations of all parties were doomed to disappointment for during the night the weather changed and we were awoke this morning by the rain descending in a very heavy deluge; the review was out of the question and many were the laments Blanche and I made to one another of the great expense the Smiths had incurred, and for nothing.

7. The storm continued throughout this day: Captain Smith sent an express to Auckland to enquire whether there would be any review this year and if so, when: orders came down to postpone it indefinitely. The Pensioners in general were delighted at not having the trouble of fatigue.

8. A little finer day. Mrs Smith came to Howick to look after all the delicacies and dainties that had been left in the Court room ever since Monday evening, when the tables were spread anticipatory of the gay feast on Tuesday. She found everything more or less spoilt; we however received a portion of what was still good in the shape of a present of a large piece of collared beef which was found very excellent and greatly enjoyed.

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TAKEN VERY POORLY

9. My dear Blanche, Charlie and Blanny, all taken very poorly today. We imagine the present of beef we had yesterday has caused the sickness - the luncheon was bought ready cooked in Auckland, and we know not what sort of spices they may have put into the meat to flavour it.

10. I was among the sick today: feel so sure that it is the meat that has disagreed with us that though there is a fine large piece left, we must eat no more of it.

1 June. Winter come in very earnest. Very cold in the morning and evening and terrible gusts of wind and torrents of rain at intervals throughout the day and night.

4. Awful storms throughout yesterday and today: children quite frightened at night and none of us but Charlie and Mary had much rest. Were we living in a well-built brick house the storms would appear much less terrific, but with a thin plank only between, and the rattling hail and howling wind, the noise is at times fearful indeed.

5. Weather as uncomfortable as could be. To add to our troubles we lost our cow today.

6. Sent two men in search of our cow: out in the rain and the hail for 8 hours searching in vain. Neither saw or heard anything of her.

8. After dinner started on my good horse Jessie for St John's. As I went looked in vain for my missing cow. The roads most abominable, a perfect quagmire, far above my poor horse's fetlocks, who had hard work to draw one leg after another out of the stiff spongy clay. Progress very slow.

Arrived however at the College just before the Bishop went into Chapel to Catechise the native boys, so I had the opportunity of witnessing a very interesting sight. The service commenced by a class of young Maories reading the lessons for the day in English out of English Bibles, and then translating them verse by verse into their own tongue, the Bishop correcting them if it appeared they in any way misunderstood the original.

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JUNE 1851

After the natives had been catechised the accustomed time - one hour - the catechising of the English lads commenced, in the midst of which the Bishop of Newcastle arrived and came into the Chapel to greet his brother of New Zealand; he retired however immediately, and when the catechising was over I went to the Bishop's house and there met his Lordship just in time for our Unity Service, so the two Bishops accompanied by all in the College assembled in the Chapel and never did I hear a service celebrated with more heartiness and fervour. After service I had the pleasure of taking tea with the two Bishops.

11. The feast of St Barnabas. Went to St John's. Throughout the afternoon the Priests and Deacons present assembled in Mr Abraham's room and drew up a long series of requests to the two Bishops. At this meeting the Bishop sent us for our inspection a most rude insulting letter from the Revd Churton, the minister of St Paul's, Auckland. We expressed to his Lordship our sorrow that any of his clergy could so far forget his duty as to treat his own Bishop with so much indignity. Mr Churton is a thorn in the Bishop's side - and systematically opposes him in all his plans and operations. The letter in question was in answer to one Bishop Selwyn had written to him informing him that a few of the Clergy asked to present the Bishop of Newcastle with an address, and asking him as the Senior Clergyman of the Archdeaconry to draw up the address and come over to St John's and present it - for which piece of very considerate courtesy that cross-grained old Priest must needs return an exceeding offensive refusal.

12. The first fine day since the first of this month. Resumed my usual parochial occupations. In the evening just at sunset we were all put in good spirits by the recovery of our cow, brought home by two of the Pensioners who bad discovered her quietly grazing several miles from Howick along with a herd running at large in the cattle run.

14. A busy day - all the morning visiting in my Parish and the rest of the day occupied with my own children and my

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THE HORRID GOLD MANIA

little farm: on this we begin now to depend much for our food, for in consequence of the horrid Gold mania all sorts of Provisions are so enormously dear, that if it were not for my ten acres of glebe I fear we should soon be in such distressed circumstances as to regret we had come so near to the gold mines of Australia. I must try to grow my own wheat and cure my own bacon, and should I have such productive crops from my garden as others around me have had, I have great hopes that notwithstanding the terrible sudden rise in the price of everything we shall still have enough and to spare.

18. Just as I was settling down after tea for a quiet evening, I was summoned to Dr Bacot, 32 whom I found in a very depressed state of mind. Staid with him upward of an hour and I trust I left him more calm and comfortable.

23. Immediately after I dismissed my school at 12, started on Jessie for Auckland. Ascertained that my Box per Stately had just been sent to Howick. Ordered some more flour though selling at the enormous price of 30 £ a ton: the excitement respecting the gold "diggings" in Australia rising to fever heat in Auckland and all provisions very dear. We have taken to the eating of potatoes for breakfast and to the having of bread for tea alone.

Reached the College about 6 o'clock and after seeing to the stabling of my wearied beast I called in at Mr Lloyd's rooms and found him just going to tea so I dropt in to share it with him. There was however a difficulty in getting for me any bread, for the College had been put on Famine allowance, and the quantity of bread weighed out daily to the Fellows and the Bishop's household was barely sufficient for the wants of each individual. The good natured warm hearted Irishman however, went and begged half a loaf from a family living near the College and I made a hearty meal notwithstanding the apparent lack of food. The students and boys have nothing but rice and potatoes and meat - no bread.

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JUNE-JULY 1851

27. Bought a large fat hog of some natives. Gave 19 shillings for him.

28. Busy. Planted a long row of roses, fuchsias and geraniums to form a hedge to the new garden I am forming. I expect that next summer this hedge will be one long garland of bright and pretty flowers. In the midst of my work Dr Bacot sent for me. Poor man, he seems in a sad state, bodily and mentally.

29. Killed the hog we bought yesterday. Did not prove so fat or large as we expected. The weight of the portions we cut up for salting and to eat while fresh came to 115 lbs which would have cost us 1 £ 18s at the Butcher's - so we saved about £1.

1 July. Found today to my sorrow that the chronic abcess from which I suffered in England just previous to my departure has again formed in my right cheek. Determined to have Mr Purchas' advice - he, although a Deacon, being considered by far the cleverest Doctor in the Colony. Before his ordination medicine was his profession and Guys the Hospital he had "walked".

2. Although very cold, almost approaching a frost, today was exceeding bright and cheerful. Started on Jessie for Onehunga. Having to pass through Epsom I dropt in at Mr Lusk's just in time to join them at their tea. Here I left my horse and walked to Mr Purchas' - a distance of two miles - whose house I reached about 5 o'clock: surprised, but glad to see me. Mrs Purchas had had another daughter since I was last here - a fortnight old. The Baby I did not see, but its Mama came and joined us at supper!

After supper I had my face lanced and two of my back teeth extracted - then betook myself to my shakedown in Mr Purchas' study, where I slept soundly till 7 the next morning.

3. Breakfasted with Mr Purchas and half a dozen half-caste children whom he boards and educates for a gentleman in



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VICESIMUS LUSH 1817-1882
BLANCHE LUSH 1819-1912


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BLANCHE (BLANNEY) the eldest daughter, photographed with one of the younger children
CHARLES the eldest son


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MARTIN the third son
ANNE the fourth daughter


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EDITH the youngest daughter
ELIZA AND ANNE LUSH the sisters of Vicesimus, to whom his journals and letters were addressed

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A HOWICK SHIPWRECK

Auckland who has a Maori wife. 33 Just as we had finished breakfast Mr Lusk came on Jessie, whom we tethered in Mr Purchas' paddock, and then proceeded to St Peter's where Mr Purchas has daily morning service - the only Church excepting at the College) where there is daily service.

21. An addition to my farm stock in the shape of a fine heifer calf: the little folks had a long dispute at tea time as to the name to be bestowed on the little stranger. It being at length referred to me for a decision I chose the one mentioned by Blanny - "Daisy" - having a dislike for calling Dumb Beasts by Xtian names, which were the names chosen by the other children.

22, 23, 24. Thorough wet days, more after the English fashion, a steady continuous fall - not in the manner so usual here, a sudden violent flood falling by bucketsfull but fortunately always for but a short time. Though but little wind, the quantity of rain which fell so raised all the brooks that great damage has been done - among other casualties a bridge crossing a deep gully which lies across the road between here and Auckland has been entirely destroyed, cutting us off from all communication with that town as far as riding and driving are concerned - and to add to the inconvenience the Howick boat, which took most of the people and their goods to and fro, was also lost with a cargo of goods for the settlement on board. So we are at present in an isolated condition, cut off by land and water from all communication with the rest of the habitable world.

The Passengers by the boat were fortunately saved, having effected a landing some few miles down the beach before the boat became a total wreck. I have never yet gone to Auckland by sea - Blanche has so strongly begged me to be content with the perils by land without superadding those of the water. After last night's sad calamity I shall have no inclination myself for boating it.

26. Called upon our "Next door" neighbour, Captain McDonald - he and his daughter Jessie were the only members

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JULY-AUGUST 1851

of the family I saw. Lent them The Times for 1850 which someone was so kind as to enclose in the box per Stately.

The Captain sent me home loaded with cuttings from fruit trees and with several shrubs - a valuable contribution to my new garden, for good fruit trees are at present so scarce and in such request that they may be said to be worth their weight in gold.

31. Much distressed this evening by finding Betsy had influenced dear little Blanny to tell an untruth in order to screen herself from the blame she expected to receive for breaking one of our best metal dish covers. This is now the third time we have found Betsy out, tampering with dear Blanche and influencing her for evil. We must keep them apart as much as possible in future. We often wish Elizabeth Belcher were here with us in the place of Anne Sainsbury. But we must make the best of our bargain.

8 August. After breakfast started on Jessie for Auckland. In consequence of the loss of one of our bridges and the banking up of the road in many places through the late heavy flood it was with difficulty that I got forwards, walking slowly the whole distance from Howick to the College. The man at the Ferry told me as a positive fact that a Steam boat was about to be started on the 1st January between Howick and Auckland one day and Panmure and Auckland the following day. By and by I suppose that we shall have a railroad, and then instead of spending 5 hours in going from Howick to Auckland I shall achieve the same distance in half an hour.

Saw Mr Lloyd and Mr and Mrs Abraham at St John's - the latter still an invalid but in good spirits, and busy when I entered the Bishop's drawing room painting a panoramic view of St John's College and all the adjoining buildings, so that her friends in England might have a tolerably clear conception of her present abode. 34

Reached Auckland about 5 o'clock. After stabling my good horse I went to the Barber's to enjoy the luxury of being shaved: the man told me he sold a large portion of his

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AN OFFER OF MARRIAGE

most expensive scents and pomatums to the Natives. Their character is made up of contradictions. While I was in the shop a Maori entered, wrapped but in a dirty mat, to buy some rose water. It looked marvellously strange to see so rough a looking man taking up bottle after bottle with all the air of a connoisseur, and at last after much deliberation selecting those which seemed to his olfactory nerves the most odiferous.

I went to Thatcher's for tea and to beg a night's lodging, which they gave me with the kindest of welcome. Heard that Mr Lloyd at the College was expecting by the Norfolk a young lady whom he had known in Ireland and to whom he had written an offer of marriage since he came out here. The Lady is about 21, Mr Lloyd near upon 50. She is to go to the Thatchers', from whose house she is to be married.

Enjoyed my tea and breakfast and then, after borrowing a few French books for my little girls, took my leave thinking how fortunate it was that I had so comfortable a house to go to when business called me to Auckland. On leaving town called upon the Churtons to congratulate them on the approaching marriages of the two eldest daughters - who are both to be married on the same day early next month. While sitting chatting to the old "cross-grained" Priest who, however, was exceedingly polite to me, I heard to my dismay the sound of rain and taking a sudden leave of the family I was soon hastening homeward as fast as good Jessie could trot.

While riding between the College and Panmure a Maori overtook me, mounted on a very good horse. I began with the usual salutation: Tena ra ko kohi, but he immediately replied in very good English, "How do you do, Sir - a wet day, this." So I dropt the native tongue most willingly and chatted away in English. He offered me 40 £ for my horse, which I refused. I asked where he kept his money: he said, "In the Bank." I said, "Shall you go to Australia to pick up gold?" At which he grinned and said: "I not go there. I bought two horses - a cart - a plough - I sow 100 acres in wheat - I work little and send my corn to Sydney: English work hard in picking gold which they send me for my corn.

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AUGUST-SEPTEMBER 1851

So Pakehas work hard, I work little, but I pocket the gold." At which he grinned again, and after a moment's pause said, "Kapai - Kapai. It is good - it is good."

1 September. There being a great difficulty in procuring meat in Howick in consequence of the Maories keeping in their native Kaiangas potato planting &c. and not coming to the Settlement with pigs, I determined to walk to a Mr Tryce 35 who has a large herd of swine, to purchase of him. The way for the first three miles lay along the sea shore - the tide was ebbing fast - the sun was shining though the wind blew cold and it threatened for rain. The walk was exceeding interesting - passing now at the foot of lofty perpendicular cliffs, in the crevices and the tops of which were the beautiful Pohutukawa trees with vast numbers of creepers clinging to this stone or that branch and forming fantastic garlands - and then having to traverse a broad flat sandy shore covered with shells of various shapes and lines, and at one point - a most romantic spot - passing a pretty waterfall.

I came at length in sight of Tryce's house, but it was on the other side of a bay and there was yet a mile of sea flowing between me and it. As the tide receded so I advanced, gaining this rock then reaching that, till I came by slow degrees within a 1/4 of a mile, when I began to shout and scream as loud as my lungs would admit of, hoping I should attract the attention of the inmates and that they would send across a boat - for so I had been told was the way all who went thence had to do in order to reach the house - but I shouted in vain. Suddenly one of the heaviest showers I have yet witnessed swept across the ocean and I was wet to the skin in five minutes - nothing remained but to retreat as fast as possible and I hurried home.

8. A lamentable accident has occurred. A Pensioner who was at Parade and Church yesterday morning and at the Public House in the evening, when he became excessively tipsy, was found dead in a stable this morning.

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A NOTORIOUS DRUNKARD

9. Had the unpleasant duty of committing to the earth the remains of the wretched man who died yesterday morning. We need discipline in our Church here as badly as it is needed in England. Besides being a notorious drunkard, this man was a Presbyterian: how I longed for the Constitution the Bishop talks of framing for the government of our Body, that all such anomalous cases as this may be rectified.

13. A beautiful spring day. The two eldest Miss McDonalds married. A very quiet wedding. I heard they were to be married first at my Church and then at the Chapel: but they did not come to me so I presume they were satisfied with the Roman Catholic service alone.

Mr Lloyd's wedding was a much gayer affair. He rode from Auckland to the College early in the morning. Mr and Mrs Thatcher brought Miss Greer a few hours after, accompanied by the Captain of the Norfolk and his wife (who had sailed with him). The Captain acted as the Lady's father. The whole College body were drawn up to receive them and welcome them - not with a peal of bells for, like me, they have but one - but with three hearty loud hurrahs. They then formed into a long procession and marched into Chapel where they had full morning service - the marriage taking place after the Second lesson. The Chapel had been most tastefully decorated for the occasion with the brightest green leaves and large white flowers, and the effect I was told was exceeding pretty and good. This was a spontaneous tribute of respect to Mr Lloyd from the Maori lads.

14. Captain Smith not at Church. I enquired the reason and found he was very poorly. It is generally supposed that he has built his house in a very unhealthy situation, being low ground and near a creek - certainly he and Mrs Smith and their servant have been very frequently ill ever since they left this house.

As we were returning from Church, saw at a little distance one of the younger Miss McDonalds with a white dress on, flounced up to her waist. I directed Blanche's attention to it quite accidentally, but dear little Mary's quick eyes and open

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SEPTEMBER 1851

ears saw and heard it all. At dinner time she suddenly said, "Mama, I wish you would make me some flounces". I think if her Aunt Eliza had seen the pretty little face and winning expression when she made her request something would have been done for her - but as it was she only got well laughed at for her first hankering after the vanities of a vain world.

24. Captain and Mrs Smith came to dine with us at one o'clock. In the afternoon they called upon the newly married people, Dr and Mrs Bacot - and Captain and Mrs McDonald. We gave them for dinner a couple of fowls and a piece of bacon, the latter dear Blanche's curing and most delicious it has proved to be. Excepting this we have not tasted good bacon since we left England.

25. Heard a rumour of the finding of Gold in Hawkes Bay. What an influx will the discovery cause should it prove true! Planted 14 Ti-palms in various parts of my grounds. As a great favour we have had given us a small root of the common English Cowslip - which Blanche prizes much - and from which we hope some day to sprinkle our fields and make them look like the pretty meadows of Farringdon where our little ones used to roam and come home loaded with cowslip balls.

29. Went to St John's College. Dear Blanche and the children had received a pressing invitation but the weather we considered too unsettled and the roads still too heavy for so large a party to go so long a distance. Mrs Selwyn was ill in bed; Mrs Abraham still an invalid. Mrs Lloyd (the Bride) was the only lady in good health.

Met Mr Swainson, the Attorney-General, Captain and Mrs Smith, and Mr Purchas. It was a sort of feast day, "Gaudy" as it is called in Oxford, and the High table was well loaded with Michaelmas geese and fat mutton - both the produce of the College farm. Spent the afternoon in the College garden getting cuttings and roots of the choicest flowers and shrubs with which I returned home about 6 o'clock. The first thing I heard on entering the house was little Charlie's voice calling

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THE COMMON BLACKBERRY

out, "I have taken some medicine, Papa, and I take it better than you".

Dr and Mrs Bacot had called while I was away at St John's. I am glad I was not at home. I was told today that they went to the Roman Catholic Chapel yesterday so I presume the Doctor has cast off the Church of his baptism and, seized with the English epidemic, seceded to the Church of Rome.

1 October. Planted some few slips of the common blackberry, a weed in England - here thought a great rarity as indeed every English plant must be for a time, when there are but few in the Colony and so much trouble has been taken to bring them hither. There is, I believe, but one other person in Howick who has the blackberry.

8. A morning visitor! Quite a rarity now a days. Mrs Hargreaves and a Miss Pane called upon us. It was a brother of this Mrs Hargreaves' husband who discovered the existence of gold in Australia. The Ladies were exceedingly smartly dressed, quite in the Colonial style. Our English eyes and English sober minded thoughts are as yet hardly accustomed to the excessive gayness of dress in the Colony.

10. Felt very poorly when I arose this morning but directly I went out into my garden and inhaled the sea breeze I felt as well as ever and heartily enjoyed two hours' hard work. On going in to breakfast sorry to find Blanche and little Charlotte poorly; they continued so throughout the day. Blanche however contrived to make up 6 lbs of butter and to bake 40 lbs of bread, but the exertion was almost too much for her.

After tea, the evening being most deliciously beautiful, calm, mild and bright, I persuaded her to take a short walk with me and we strolled down to the beach where we stood a few minutes gazing at the booming waves as they dashed lazily against the lofty cliffs, and admired the distant Isles lit up by the setting sun. Our thoughts travelled with electric speed across the ocean that lay at our feet to those near and dear relatives, who I doubt not are this day thinking of us, for

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OCTOBER 1851

it was on this day last year we landed on the shores of New Zealand and sought a new home among a new people.

11. The newspaper came at dinner time and to our astonishment we read in the shipping list: "Entered Inwards - October 8th: Border Maid 90 tons, Mr Champion, from Sydney. Passengers - The Lord Bishop of New Zealand, Mr Nihill, Messrs N. and C. Hector, Mr Betts, 2 Maories and 13 South Sea Islanders." We thus learnt that the Bishop had returned and been at St John's 3 days already without our hearing of it.

Poor Blanche was rather upset at the intelligence of his bringing so many as 13 South Sea Islanders - for she is far from well and fears that now the Bishop might expect us to receive one or two of them into our house, which in addition to our household is far from an agreeable prospect, either as regards the work of the house or our domestic comfort. I shall get off having them if I can.

13. Last night, as the storm glass indicated, was stormy, but this morning was bright and clear and promised a fine day. Blanche and I determined to go to St John's College and pay our respects to the Bishop. Sent word across to the assembled children at the School house that I would give them a holiday and we started about 1/2 past 9 in our cart - I driving.

We had a very pleasant ride excepting the jolts and bumps we got from the extreme roughness of portions of the road, but by the time we reached the Ferry at Panmure Blanche felt so very fatigued that she called upon Captain and Mrs Haultain 36 and remained with them while I walked on to the Bishop's. The first person I met was Mr Lloyd and to my great joy he told me the Bishop did not intend to billet any of the South Sea Islanders on me, so I proceeded with much more boldness to the Bishop's house where I received a very kind welcome and had a long and interesting chat with Dr and Mrs Selwyn.

After Hall the Bishop called the 13 Islanders to him and introduced me to them. I shook hands with each and we

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OUR SAILOR BISHOP

exchanged grins, for more than shaking hands and grinning at one another we could not do. These are natives of 6 different groups of Islands, and among them there are 6 totally different languages spoken; so St John's is like to become a very Babel.

The Bishop returned a month sooner than he had intended in consequence of the rigging of the Border Maid proving dangerously defective. He sailed for Sydney in order to land the Bishop of Newcastle who I fancy from what Bishop Selwyn said did not enjoy the cruise as much as our own "sailor Bishop". When at Sydney they had to lay out 34 £ on ropes &c., which one of the Merchants of that City, who trades to the Islands the Bishop had just been visiting, came forward and paid by cheque on his banker; this merchant had but shortly before lost a ship with the whole crew who were murdered at one of the islands the Bishop was received most kindly at, and where he and a party from the Border Maid spent in perfect security two days. The merchant was so struck with the difference of the natives towards the Bishop, and their great hostility towards his own ship's company that he expressed his admiration and satisfaction of the great work the Bishop is effecting among these savages by giving the seasonal help in money I have just mentioned.

When the Border Maid reached our Harbour the Captain of H. M. S. the Fantome offered to send his men on board to new rig her: so Bishop Selwyn has been fortunate to get the materials and the work given him.

I reached Captain Haultain's about 1/2 past 4 and we started at once for the Ferry where I had left my horse and cart. Blanche had had a very pleasant day and enjoyed her visit: about the -first she has made since we came to Howick. Just as we reached home it began to rain and as we were sitting most comfortably at tea, enjoying it much, we heard the rain descending in torrents, so we congratulated each other on our good fortune in getting home safe, sound and dry.

25. Thanks to dear Blanche enjoyed a nice cup of coffee and two eggs before 6. Started with Dash as my companion. Just as I was being pulled across the Ferry Captain McDonald

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OCTOBER -NOVEMBER 1851

came galloping up, but the men decided upon taking me to the other side before they hauled the punt back for him. He did not overtake me in consequence of this till I had reached Auckland, though he is a hard rider compared to me.

Called upon Mr Thatcher: found them preparing for a small breakfast party as their little Baby was to be Christened. His Excellency the Governor and Lady Grey had expressed a wish to stand sponsors. Mr Thatcher was the Governor's private Secretary before he decided upon applying to the Bishop for ordination. Found the tradespeople generally very dull respecting their prospects - trade becoming very slack and so many Europeans leaving the Island for the diggings in Australia. As yet but one Maori has gone thither.

28. There was to be a native wedding at the College today - one of the Maori young men at St John's to one of Mrs Kissling's school girls. I greatly fear the Bishop will reap nothing but disappointment in all his kind well intentioned plans for the improvement in the native race. Those who live in their ancient rude way with many wives, lose their children in a fearful manner; those who live by the Bishop's persuasion in the Parkehar fashion with but one wife and in a civilized manner seem utterly unable to rear their children - the rising generation is being cut off in a very mysterious manner; so that our grand-children are like to know the natives only as a matter of history - or perchance there may be here or there a half caste man or woman, but beyond some such slight relicts of the present Maories, I fear no vestige of this fine race of Nature will exist.

2 November. Such a delightful day, like a bright warm May day in England. And we have "May" too, in full blossom on two of our trees, but I think if it were not for the dear associations with the May, one would here call it "November" - for in May our hawthorn is leafless and blossomless: in this month it is in all its beauty, so gay and so fragrant.

The children went to Church in their summer clothing and looked so neat and respectable that they would not have

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THE CENSUS PAPER

looked amiss in one of the fashionable churches at the "West end", and here in Howick I thought they looked quite charming.

3. Filled up a census paper left at every-one's house, to be returned today with all questions duly answered under a penalty of Five pounds. A Dissenter, a member of the Legislative Council, drew the form up. The first column was headed "Name" - the second "Sex" - the third "Age", and the fourth "Race": then came an obnoxious one headed "Religious Sect" - under which, to my own name and to those of wife, children and servant, I wrote distinctly, "Of no religious sect". I could not and would not officially subscribe myself "a sectarian". And it is generally supposed that the Dissenter who framed the "Return" so expressed it to force Church people to call themselves members of a sect - but "old birds are not caught with chaff". I hope I was up to the dodge and escaped the snare. The column following this was "Occupation" to which I wrote "Clergyman", so my meaning of "no religious sect" will be apparent.

6. Mr Dudley 37 called. He is staying at the College where he will remain till February, when he thinks he shall go to the Church Missionary Society's station at the Waimate. Mr Dudley saw Tamihana, the son of the great chief Te Rauparaha several times before he left England. When Mr D. last saw him he was ill of the measles at the C. M. S. Institution at Islington. He was lying in bed with a map of New Zealand and a portrait of Marsden, the first missionary to these shores, hanging on the wall close by - at which he frequently and earnestly gazed.

He was so delighted to see Mr D. for he said it was delightful to hear the prayers read in his own tongue and to be able to talk with one freely and fully. I enquired whether he was not astonished with all he saw. Mr D. said no. He often said he should have been astonished had Maories done all he saw, but he was never surprised at what Pakehas did, for they

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NOVEMBER 1851

could do anything and everything. He has sent Mr Lloyd a long letter - speaking of the railroads, he compared the train running into a tunnel to a rat shooting into its hole. When he came out of the Great Exhibition after his first visit, he was asked what he thought of it. He said: There was too much food for his eyes to afford much nourishment for his mind, implying how confused and bewildered the multitude of objects had made him.

9. Lord Mayor's Day, in London. Cold, damp and foggy perchance - here warm, bright and exhilerating in the extreme. Had for dinner one of our own turkeys and a tongue of Blanche's own curing - new potatoes, a gift from one of the Pensioners, and a most delicious bread and butter pudding; as nice a dinner as I could wish to have and at about one eighth the cost it would have been in England.

Just previous to going to bed (9 o'clock) we were so attracted by the extreme brightness of the moonlight that often and often as we have stood and gazed and gazed again upon the exceeding pretty view from our verandah, we could not refrain from going there again tonight, and verily I thought the prospect more lovely than ever. The moon was nearly full and shed such a glorious light upon the landscape that the sea seemed like a sheet of gold and the dark blue mountains of the Waiheke looked like fairy land.

Betsy who had joined us, went in to fetch a book, and I found I could read a very small type with ease.

13. Just as we had finished dinner Mr - or as he is now called by all, Dr Warrington called. We were delighted to see him; he partook of the remnant of beef in the dish, which he ate with pickles and new bread, washed down with a glass of capital porter. He remained about two hours, being obliged to leave early for the sake of getting home in time to milk his cows.

He looks very thin and pale but was in good spirits and I imagine they are more comfortable than they were 6 months ago. His practise increases which, with his sale of milk, butter

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A STATE OF EXCITEMENT

and poultry, brings in sufficient income to cover their expenses.

18. The village is in a state of excitement from the first election for "town councillors" coming off today. Captain McDonald and one of the Pensioners were candidates - after a long close struggle the Captain gained the day over the subaltern by 10 votes only. I declined voting and refused to stand as a candidate though asked by several.

20. Blanche took Betsy and all the children to Sergeant Gentles' new Shop - the village Shop - it is a large and handsome looking place and is an ornament to our settlement. The youngsters were delighted with their walk. Blanney and Charlotte had earned, the one a penny, the other a halfpenny, for finishing some aprons. Blanney spent hers on a reel of white cotton; Charlotte her halfpenny on a cake - so very characteristic of the two girls.

21. While Blanche was hearing the little girls their lessons something obstructed the light through the window, and on looking up there was a Maori grinning with delight at the sight of the slates and books - they have a great love for any thing in the shape of a book. He was carrying fish for sale. Blanche got rid of him by buying 6 snapper (a large fish about the size of a well-grown salmon) for 6 pence. Not very dear: we should have paid 12 times that sum at Billingsgate.

16 December. Peter Searles, one of the Pensioners, accompanied me to Mr Tryce's bush farm to show me the way, I having twice tried to get there and hitherto having failed. We traversed the high land over-looking the sea for about two miles and then came to a precipice which seemed to me higher and somewhat as steep at Shakespear's cliff at Dover: only not so bare for it was well clothed with magnificent trees. We had to descend this. I looked down and my courage almost failed me - but Searles was half way below while I was looking at the waves dashing at the foot of the cliff and so I commenced with many misgivings, but by great care I reached the beach in safety.

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DECEMBER 1851

Here I found we were within a short distance of Tryce's house which lay on the further side of the bay. Searles who had brought his gun fired once or twice to attract Tryce's attention, and soon after we could discern them getting their boat ready to come over and fetch us. In the mean-while Searles amused himself with shooting a Kukupa 38 one of the most beautiful birds the country posesses.

The Tryces' house is in a very wild and lonely place but it suits them well for they rear large herds of swine and cattle which here can roam at large without any fear of trespassing upon another's property. We took a long walk with the two Tryces and I saw the remains of an ancient Pah and some underground huts as well as a native burial place which the Tryces had been obliged to fence in before the natives would allow them to dwell in peace - so great is the natives' dread lest a spot they have tapued should be desecrated by man or beast.

We returned to Tryce's about 2 o'clock, pleased enough with our walk but very hungry and very tired; Tryce's labourers sat down to dinner with us, Mrs Tryce waiting upon us. I had a plentiful supply of new milk with my bacon and potatoes, but nice as it was I should have liked far better a draught of Barclay and Perkins Stout. Soon after dinner we started homewards and as we were walking down to the boat Tryce, who was evidently much pleased with my visiting him and I suppose wished to show me some attention in return, said he should like to do something for my Church and wanted to know whether I would allow him to put in a Pulpit. He could not have mentioned anything I wish for less - of course I declined - I regret now I did not suggest to him a font.

17. Walked to St John's College to see Mr Purchas - who thought me very much better and the swelling that has troubled me decidedly less. Mr Abraham asked me to join him, by and by, in an excursion into the interior, taking about 3 weeks for our tour. The offer is very tempting and if I

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THE SCHOOL MASTER REINSTATED

can leave my home and its precious occupants with any comfort, and feel better and stronger than I do at present, I shall go with him.

18. Took a very important step today. Tired beyond measure with the Parochial school and exceedingly dissatisfied with my irregular attendance on my own dear Children, I called upon the man who had charge of the School on the first formation of the settlement and succeeded in securing his services as my School master 39 for the ensuing year. Captain Smith dismissed him, but he carried with him the sympathy of the people in general and ever since has had a private school of his own, numbering some 30 pupils. His successor, Pearce, was not liked and the Church school dwindled down to some 12 children in which state it was when I came and superseded him at the Bishop's earnest request.

Up to this time it had been a Government School - the School master's salary being paid by the Government through Captain Smith. When I came, having been appointed by the Bishop without reference to the Government, their allowance forthwith stopped, therefore I became wholly free from the State and my school became a private one. Under these circumstances I considered myself at liberty to employ whom I pleased as my School master and, risking all the resentment Captain Smith may feel at my retaking his rejected man, I deem myself fortunate in having today reinstated him in his former position. It releases me from the daily drudgery of a village pedagogue and brings to him a large accession of pupils - some 52 - all of whom will have to pay some 2d a week for their schooling instead of receiving it for nothing as heretofore.

19. When all my Scholars were assembled I told them we should not meet again till Monday 29th [December] as the ensuing week was to be a holiday. I then went on to state the change that would take place - the weekly payment - school twice a day instead of from 9 to 12 only - and the fact that Mr Hills would be again their School master.

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DECEMBER 1851

Directly I mentioned his name there was a burst of applause and from the pleasure the children expressed I was at once satisfied that my proceeding will not be disagreeable to the Church people here - but what Captain Smith will think about it, or the Bishop say, I know not. The immediate result will be having a school of some 80 children instead of 50 - and all under my superintendence - and a necessary consequence, the outlay of some £20 in enlarging our present too small School house.

21. An exceeding pleasant day - busy and cheerful but not so sultry as of late and therefore by so much the more agreeable. Had at dinner a most delicious apple tart, the first we have tasted since we left England. It was made of American dried apples and while it retained much of the flavour of the fruit in its natural state, it had also all the richness of a nice preserve. They are sold in Auckland at 7d a lb: and a lb will make a good sized family cut-and-come-again pie.

22. Took my two little girls for 3 hours this morning. Found they had progressed very satisfactorily under their Mamma's care: henceforward as I have got rid of the village school I must be their Instructor, a duty Blanche at the present time will be heartily glad to be excused. In the afternoon we had several visitors: Mr St Hill, brother of the St Hill the Bishop so often mentions in the early portions of his Journal - and Captain Travers and Lady with Miss Travers, her cousin; and a Miss Campbell, daughter of Colonel Campbell who is now at Canterbury.

They came in the Undine which it seems the Bishop has lent to Captain Travers until such time as he may want her for use or sale. They spoke with pleasure of the sail from Auckland to Howick and when the vessel with its clean white sails reflected by the deep blue background of the ocean, sailed into our pretty Bay, I thought how enjoyable an excursion on the water much be on such a beautiful day as this - and I stood on our verandah and admired the pretty vessel, little thinking she was the Undine, and still less that she bore a party bound on a visit to us.



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THE HOWICK PARSONAGE, 1863
From left: Charles, Mrs Lush, Anne; Martin; Mary Anne Heath (nursegirl) in doorway; Mrs Cole (nurse) with Edward in drawing-room window; Blanney with Edith.


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THE FIRST PAGE OF BISHOP SELWYN'S LETTER to the Revd Vicesimus Lush (see Preface)


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ALL SAINTS' CHURCH, HOWICK, c1863

CHURCH OF ENGLAND GRAMMAR SCHOOL, 1863 situated on the corner of what is now Ayr Street and Parnell Road

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OUR XTMAS FEAST

24. I have had great difficulty in realizing that today is the one preceding Christmas Day. So fine - so bright - so hot - like a day in July in England: but however I was forced to believe my Church Almanac and therefore, directly after dinner, accompanied with all my children, I went to the Church and decorated it with boughs of the Pohutukawa which just now is loaded with its magnificent scarlet blossom. Blanney and I both thought the Church looked exceeding gay, but Charlotte thought it would have looked better had we had holly! A little remark like this shows that the two eldest girls have not yet forgotten England and her associations.

27. Xtmas Day. We wish our dear but far distant friends many happy returns of this blessed season: it may be midsummer when they read this but the assurance that we remember them, tho' late, will not be, I dare say, the less welcome.

Such a glorious day - not too hot - but bright and cheerful in the extreme. The day was remarkably well kept in the village and I had an excellent congregation, the first really good voluntary one since I have been here.

The Smiths dined with us: we had green peas and new potatoes, the first time I have partaken of them on a Xtmas Day. Then we had a fine piece of beef, two boiled fowls and a fine ham - an Apple Tart, a dish of custard and a very excellent Plumb pudding. Next year I hope to add strawberries &c. as a dessert. Dining as we did with our windows wide open and even then too warm to be right comfortable, I thought how different was our Xtmas Feast to that of my dear relatives in England - shivering perhaps with the cold and crowding round a blazing fire. Although our dinner was one of the best we have had on any Xtmas Day it was decidedly the cheapest, from having had so much of it off our own land.

29. Opened my Parochial school under Mr Hills' management - attendance remarkably good, there being no less than 76 children present. Such a satisfactory result will be an

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DECEMBER 1851-JANUARY 1852

answer to any objection Captain Smith might raise to my retaking his rejected man.

In the evening Mr Lusk brought his little girl, eleven years old, but though more robust looking than Blanney, she is not much taller - the little girls speedily became quite sociable and I trust a friendship may be formed which may be useful and lasting.

31. Rain. Rain without ceasing ever since twelve o'clock yesterday - an unfortunate change in the weather for my Visitor also is confined a close prisoner to the house, we had intended to have taken a sail on Shouraki Bay had the day proved propitious: but we might almost sail about our fields, we are so inundated. Nature is weeping over the loss of another year.

1 January 1852. A merry New Year to all - near or far away; in New Zealand and in Old England may one and all experience this to be a happy year.

Mr Lusk left me immediately after Breakfast. I lent him Jessie: Bridgford walked on to Epsom beforehand to receive the horse of Mr Lusk and bring it back. While waiting at Epsom for Mr Lusk's arrival he saw two of the races which were being run today. The company, he told me, was numerous and gay - how speedily does a young country imitate the amusements and, alas, the vices of the old country!

5. Rode to Auckland. Breakfasted with my friends the Thatchers: heard from him that Mr Churton was more and (if possible) more opposed to the Bishop and all his plans than he has been heretofore. He is quite a thorn in his Lordship's side.

The Bishop's visit to Canterbury was a most satisfactory one - he has written to say that there was a remarkable unanimity on all Church matters and the Colonists there were evidently, from what the Lyttleton Times says, much pleased with our Bishop - more so than with their own Bishop-designate whom they hope will never return to "rule" over them: nor am I surprised at the prejudice which seems so

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A VERY MERRY RIDE

universally entertained against Dr Jackson after having heard the following anecdote.

When Bishop Selwyn met him last summer, in the course of one of their conversations Dr Jackson said in his usual bombastic style that he should build his Palace of such-and-such a wood - mentioning a very expensive one. Bishop Selwyn in his quiet way suggested that he had better not talk in a young Colony of a Palace: that he had been ten years in New Zealand and had only lately succeeded in getting a small house, and that he found it told more on the sympathetic and better feelings of the struggling colonists to be content to live in a simple, economical manner. Upon which Dr Jackson replied, "Ah, it may be all very well for you, but I have no notion of living in such a humdrum manner. If I were not Alexander, perhaps I might condescend to live like Diogenes."

6. Up early, at 1/2 past 3. Aroused Betsy, who got up and made me a cup of strong coffee. Went to the School room about 5 to be ready to receive all the Children, who were to go today to a grand feast held at St John's College. They flocked in very rapidly till near 6, the time appointed for starting. I had provided seven carts in which after sundry delays we managed to stow 75 children.

We got off by I past six and after a very merry and noisy ride we reached the College about 10. We formed into a long line just outside the boundary fence and as we marched in one entrance there were two other large schools filing in from the opposite gate, and the College presented a very animated and pleasing appearance. Service was being performed and as the Chapel was already full, all who arrived late like myself, drew up our children in ranks around the Chapel walls.

There were 289 children at dinner and a goodly company of lookers on, so the College Hall is no despicable room to accommodate so large a number. At 6 they had ginger beer and a bun each, and then we started homewards, reaching Howick shortly aften ten - all of us very tired and some, myself included, with a bad headache.

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JANUARY 1852

8. Mamma was lamenting at Breakfast that there was nothing for dinner - no meat of any sort to be purchased in the settlement. The little girls thought we could at all events have vegetables enough and away they went to gather beans and pull up turnips. I dug potatoes and ere it was too late secured from a neighbour a couple of fine ducks (not any of my own poultry were fit for the table). So far, so good: shortly before our usual dinner hour a native brought for sale two large mullets for one shilling: so instead of a threatened fast there was at length all the prospects of a capital feast, and fortunate for us it was so - for just previous to our sitting down to our good cheer, who should come in but Mr Abraham, Mr Hector and four of the Melanesian youths. We would have been sadly put to it had we not have had the ducks, the fish and the little girls' abundant supply of vegetables.

The names of the four young men were Siapo - Uliette - Thol and Sappandoolo. The latter is the one who showed his attachment to the Bishop and the College by swimming out two miles to the Border Maid when she was about to leave his Island without him in consequence of being unable to approach nearer the shore for the heavy surf. Sappandoolo had been taken home for a holiday but he longed to be back again at school - it is not many boys who can boast of having swum to school.

He nursed little Charlie and it was amusing to see how gently he stroked Charlie's thin, light hair, and, every now and then, kissed it. Charlie seemed more than half afraid of the "black man" at first, but soon he looked up into his countenance and smiled. The other children seemed as confiding towards them as they would have been towards strange Europeans.

9. Startled not a little today with the news that Gold had been found at Waiheke - just opposite to Howick!

12. A schooner ran out of our bay from Waiheke and 20 men rushed into the village to buy spades and pickaxes, to

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THE FIRST STEAM BOAT

hasten back to the "Auckland Diggings"; the Gold fever is beginning - who can tell how frightfully it may rage?

19. Arose very early and started for Auckland on foot. Called upon our friends the Warringtons - had some bread and butter and new milk for my luncheon; they had both been busy reaping. What would a medical man and his wife in England say to working hard in the field reaping wheat! But here, the Doctor had no choice but either to lose his crop or gather it in himself - and, like a frugal industrious man, he has worked like a common labourer. Mrs Warrington's face, neck and hands were almost as dark as a Maorie's, so sunburnt was she - what a change to the delicate, pretty young woman who came on board the Barbara. Gordon at Gravesend.

From Mr Purchas I went to Major Kenny and there I had dinner, meeting Mrs Martin, the Judge's wife. As I looked round on the handsomely furnished room and well appointed table and sipped my wine, which was a most excellent sherry, I could have fancied I was in England - or rather it was difficult to imagine we were, after all, in New Zealand. Mrs Kenny is a very pleasant woman and their eldest boy is a fine intelligent lad, but I suppose we shall see but little of them as they talk of leaving for England when the Major's time of service is expired.

From the Major's I went to Mr Lusk and there I had tea after which I walked to Auckland - 6 long miles - and reached the Masonic Hotel about 1/2 past 9. Here I had supper and here I ended a very fatiguing day of visits. The steam boat Governor Wynyard, the first steam boat launched in New Zealand, had just returned from her first trip and I heard the loud hurrahs of the people on the new pier as I entered the Inn. Two of the gentlemen connected with her came into the Coffee room while I was supping and from them I learnt that she had given great satisfaction - so I hope very soon to be able to "steam" it from Howick to Auckland.

20. Rose early for the Hotel but late for me; my bed, bedding and bedroom decidedly better here than at the Exchange which I have heretofore patronised. After a visit to a very

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JANUARY-FEBRUARY 1852

smart hairdressers' shop to get a smooth chin, I went and breakfasted at the Thatchers'.

Made the following calls - on the Attorney-General - Captain Large - Captain Travers - Mr Blackett and Mr Churton. Mr Blackett's house and grounds are the handsomest and most finished of any in this province - what there might be at Wellington I know not - but one might travel through many and many a Parish in England without meeting such a beautiful and neat a garden as his. When we consider that but 10 years ago - perhaps much less - this spot was a bush, the labour and expense to bring it to what it is now must have been very great indeed.

3 February. Bought our first Kit of Peaches today to the great delight of the children, who thought fruit with their tea an immense treat: the time I trust will not be long before we shall have apples, grapes, figs, cherries, peaches, pears and loquats (the latter a most delicious Sydney fruit) in our own garden, for I have planted some trees of each and they are doing well - and today I saw a vine loaded with grapes which only two years ago was a small cutting; and I walked through Captain McDonald's garden to see his Orchard full of fruit, and all his trees three years ago were not much higher than a couple of spans - so very little - and now they stand some 12 and 15 feet high and covered with a most tempting array of fruit.

I came away with my pockets and hands filled with the choicest of them: I never thought so much of a few apples and peaches before. I have had promised me several plants of the Native gooseberry, a fruit with a smooth skin like a cherry and about that size, but a bright yellow when ripe; very nice any way but particularly cooked in tarts. The advantage of this plant is it bears two full crops in the year, one in June - the other in March.

5. Tomorrow being dear little Mary's birthday I rode over to Auckland to buy some mutton for tomorrow's dinner, as Mary begged hard to have a leg of mutton for her birthday. It is the first time I have ridden 30 miles for a leg of mutton.

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AN UNPLEASANT REPORT

An unpleasant report going about of the excitable state of the Maori tribes to the North of Auckland. At Kororareka they have crowned Heke's wife Queen Charlotte!! A deputation of officers from a man-of-war lying there waited on her to know the cause and meaning of such a procedure. She said she would call her Council together and send them a reply. The council met and the answer was: "So long as the flag staff lies prostrate, Heke's spirit will repose - when the flag staff is raised, Heke's spirit shall be roused throughout the length and breadth of the land."

Bought a leg of mutton and half a dozen chops for tea and was on the road home shortly after twelve. Overtook Judge Martin near the College. He did not think the natives would tolerate a "Queen", for they never have been able to endure a King, and he thought they would be as unable as unwilling to come to blows with the Europeans. Reached home about 4 o'clock and in half an hour we were all enjoying a nice cup of coffee and a delicious mutton chop, thanks to little Mary for being 5 years old tomorrow.

6. Bought for 2/6 sufficient peaches to make 16 Quarts of jam: we began peeling them immediately after breakfast and by tea time the 16 quarts of jam were made - many hands make light work. Had our leg of mutton dinner with a plum pudding - dear little Mary was in extravagant spirits all of the day. May she live to have many, many more happy birthdays.

7. More newspapers from England - they came by the Border Maid from Wellington. There were 1 Guardian, 4 Times - 4. Evening Mails and 1 John Bull.

Speaking of the mail and the Border Maid reminds me of what Mrs Selwyn said respecting the letter bags which were stowed away in the corner of the saloon. There were several native boys and girls on board coming to the North to go to school and whenever they left the saloon untidy - which was no infrequent occurence - Mrs Selwyn got the Cabin put neat immediately by calling to them and saying "the Queen would be offended if she knew how her bags were treated".

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FEBRUARY 1852

The Maories were so awestruck at the mention of Queen Victoria that they showed respect even to her Majesty's letter bags!

10. Busy all day making a hutch for my rabbit, all the children helping or - rather - hindering me. Captain and Mrs Smith and Mr Nihill paid us a morning visit. The Captain has a substance growing over his eyes which will sooner or later compel him to return to England for the advantage of an experienced oculist.

12. Being "Harvest Home" today at the College I went there, Mrs Selwyn having pressed me to come and bring my two eldest little girls with me to stay a while at St John's. We started immediately after an early and hasty breakfast: Charlie and Mary getting into the cart to go a short distance with us for a ride. They left us in the care of Bridgford - as little Minnie stood in the road waving her tiny hand and bidding her sisters goodbye, I noticed the tears chasing one another down dear Blanny's cheeks - it was the first time they had parted from Mary or left their New Zealand home and both girls felt it, but especially Blanny.

They soon however recovered their spirits and the road was comparatively new to them, and what with looking about and chatting incessantly the journey which to me was long and wearisome, to them appeared short and very pleasant. We reached St John's about twelve: they were soon on friendly terms with Miss Maier [Maling], Miss Hector and Miss Abraham - all little girls a trifle older than Blanny.

There was a large party at dinner - some 200 people - the majority excepting those who sat at the High Table, Maories, for all who had been in any way engaged in the College harvest were invited to the Harvest home dinner. Blanny and Charlotte seemed highly entertained with the sight of so many people, but nothwithstanding the excitement it must have been to them, they made a good meal of Roast Beef and Plum pudding. After dinner Mr Lloyd, Mr Kissling and Mr Maunsell addressed the natives in Maori. The latter spoke remarkably fluently and his speech seemed to tell vastly

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A FAT LITTLE FELLOW

upon the hearers, for they laughed and cheered repeatedly. There were present also Mr Dudley - Mr Burrows - Mr Purchas - the Attorney-General - and a gentleman I know not. And of Ladies beside the 5 little girls, Mrs Selwyn, Mrs Abraham, Mrs Lloyd and a Miss Hamlin.

I left immediately after dinner and had a dull ride home - no merry voices and bright eyes to cheer one on the way. My dear Blanche said the house seemed so dull without them and I found it so indeed.

16. Sent Bridgford to St John's with a parcel to my little girls. He brought back a good report, saying that they looked well and happy and he mentioned with evident satisfaction "that directly Miss Blanche saw him she ran eagerly forward and shook hands with him" - poor girl, glad I doubt not to see any face and to hear any news from Home. Mrs Selwyn sent a very friendly note back to Blanche, speaking of our little girls in a manner highly gratifying to our feelings. Mr Abraham also sent me a note with a loin of mutton from one of the College sheep - genuine South Down.

20. Bought a fine large dog of one of the Pensioners: name, Rombo. Little Minny came and looked at it and said "What is his name? Rombo? I think it should be called Rumbo, for it is a Rum looking dog." I thought of her Uncle Frederick when she said this - how pleased he would have been to have heard his pretty little niece make her first pun.

25. At 11 o'clock in the forenoon my dear Blanche had another child - a boy to our great joy; he is a very fine fat little fellow.

24. Blanche and the baby have been doing well all day. Mrs Smith called in and saw Blanche. I sent a note over to Mrs Selwyn - she said in reply that the little girls were delighted at hearing they had another brother, but that Charlotte thinks there must be some young rabbits too, to tell of. Blanche's nurse, Mrs Mash, told me her husband had gathered an apple off one of his trees today, and in the circumference it measured 16 1/2 inches: four years ago this spot was covered

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FEBRUARY-MARCH 1852

with nothing but tall fern - how quickly is the industry of civilized man converting the unproductive wilderness into a fruitful garden.

10 March. A strong report that Gold is actually found at Waiheke within some dozen miles of Howick! The Chief however, they say, refuses to allow anyone to dig there unless the Government will purchase the right for 100,000 £!!! They are a powerful tribe and unless the Government can find some means of coaxing him into compliance, the Chief could no doubt for a long time maintain his lawful right to the Island.

12. Having heard that the Catherine Stewart Forbes with 68 passengers had come into harbour during the week, was early with all my work in order to have a clear evening for the enjoyment of the letters and papers I felt confident my dear Friends in England would send me. I sent Bridgford off with a bag for the looked for treasures and after waiting anxiously for upwards of a hour he returned with 5 letters from England - Oh what a treat - one from Auckland and 22 English papers and 2 Auckland ones.

The letter from Auckland was from Mr Lewis apprizing me of two packages - containing wine, Books and piano forte. The letters, papers, books and piano forte stood a good chance of reaching the bottom of the sea rather than our harbour, for the ship Catherine Stewart Forbes encountered the heavy gale last Saturday when off the Three Kings and was well nigh shipwrecked - one sailor, poor fellow, was washed overboard and of course perished.

13. Had dinner at the Thatchers' - partook of some delicious grapes gathered from a vine close by Auckland. The town is in a perfect ferment about the gold finding -which many believe, some doubt and a few altogether deny. £100 had been offered as a reward to anyone who should discover a gold field: a man, a notorious scamp, came in great haste from Waiheke with a bag full of earth in which sparkled an

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ALL A HOAX!

abundance of minute particles of the coveted ore - he came to claim the £100.

The Committee met - they were at the Mayor's house when I rode into the Town, assaying the metal. Three Policeman guarded the door and groups of anxious lookers on and eager talkers; at last out came the news. What was it? Gold - no, all a hoax! When they assayed the gold that glittered in the bag of earth they found it contained exactly the same alloy as does the gold of a sovereign: their suspicions were awakened and their golden dream quickly vanished away. The rascal had used a file upon a sovereign, mixed the gold dust so obtained with some earth and hoped to have so imposed upon the committee as to have bagged the £100, with which he would no doubt have been off to the real gold diggings in Australia.

15. Mrs Nicholas, our near neighbour, who comes every evening for an hour or so to attend to Blanche and the Baby, told us that the man I married to one of the Howick girls but a week ago has this day murdered his wife and her little child - one she had previous to her engagement with this man. They left Howick this morning to go to his cottage somewhere near Otahuhu, and on crossing "the Scoria" between Panmure and Epsom - that terribly lonely scoria which I have traversed several times - he took the opportunity of murdering her and her infant. Mrs Nicholas has given us accounts of so many robberies and attempts - both by Europeans and Maories - on that road, that for the future I shall avoid it and go by the longer but more safe and civilized way called "the College road".

18. Stepping out on to our front verandah just after breakfast I espied a large cargo boat sailing into our bay, and I guessed it contained some packages for me from the Catherine Stewart Forbes, so ran back to the breakfast room and announced the arrival of the long looked for Piano. The children were full of delight although little Blanny suggested that after all the boat might not be for me, and therefore the Piano might not as yet have arrived: but I would not entertain the doubt, but

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MARCH 1852

sharing the hopefulness of Charlotte I put on my cassock (I wear a white holland blouse from the time I rise till breakfast and from tea till bedtime: my cassock the rest of the day) and off I started for the beach - but ere I had gone far I met two men who, touching their hats, said, "Please your Reverence, we have brought two cases for you".

Fortunately I had three men working for me, two forming my straw rick and one heightening the parlour chimney, so calling them we put Jessie in the cart and went down to the beach. The mare wanted a deal of coaxing to face and enter the waves, but at last we reached the side of the boat, which had heeled over on to one side by the ebbing of the tide, and succeeded in placing the case containing the Piano safely on my cart: a few desperate tugs pulled us out of the soft sand and out of the water and I soon had the satisfaction of seeing the case stowed safe and sound on our garden walk. The bricklayer and I went down for the second case and then I commenced the very pleasant task of unpacking. At last it was exposed to our sight and even dear Mamma ventured from her bed room to see our new and very pretty instrument. Just now and while the covering was off and ere we could remove it from its fastenings, I felt a few drops of rain, the precursors as I thought of one of our Colonial drenchers, but by good luck we housed it safely before the flood came and Blanche was delighting us all with playing one of the tunes endeared by its association with Ewelme, when the rain was pattering down outside.

21. Mrs Smith and the two Miss Hectors and Mrs Mason called upon Blanche after morning service and admired the baby and the piano, which certainly is a great ornament to our parlour.

22. While in the village school this morning the whisper ran round: the "steamer" - the "steamer" - and sure enough there was the Governor Wynyard steaming into our bay - the very first steamer boat that has agitated the waters of Shouraki Bay. It was with extreme difficulty I could keep the boys from rushing off to the beach, and as to fixing their

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EVERYTHING THAT GLITTERS

attention to their books, that was altogether out of the question, so I was glad as they when 12 o'clock came and I could dismiss them.

23. Rode over to Auckland. The burden of every-body's speech is gold, gold. As I reached the Ferry a highly respectable Maori brought me a lump of quartz and wished to know whether the yellow veins in it were copper or gold - he thought copper and so did I. When I entered Mr Hadlow's 40 shop in walked a lady and took out from her bag a small stone glittering with yellow scales and off rushed Mr Hadlow to have the glittering spangles tested, fully assured that they were particles of real gold - so there it is, everything that glitters is supposed to be the precious metal. I am glad I don't live in Auckland.

I passed through the barracks, a fine building placed on a very commanding site, for it overlooks the town on all sides and with a few guns and well disciplined troops could command the most refractory townspeople. Beyond the barracks passed the several burial places of Catholics, Romanists, Dissenters and Jews: I was not a little astonished at their neglected appearance, no, or very imperfect fences. Such I fear is the effect of placing them away from the public eye - had our burial place been around St Paul's in the town it had doubtless long since been well enclosed and kept.

24. Roast mutton and tomato tart for dinner: the former tender and good, the latter fragrant and nice. The tomatoes when ripe and stewed in white sugar, and then dried in our hot sunshine, form a most delicious conserve. These tomatoes were grown in our own garden.

25. St Hill and Ward staid dinner, having come all the way from St John's. Heard from them that the Bishop had written Mrs Selwyn telling her he would be home this day week - but that his clothes had become so shabby he would contrive to reach the College after dusk to avoid being seen by Europeans.

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MARCH-APRIL 1852

In his letter, Mr St Hill told us, he related that he had overheard two natives talking of him; one said, "Have you seen the Bishop?" -"No." - "Ah! he was here just now, talking to me. Did you not see him?" - "No, I have not met the Bishop. I saw a man walking on the beach but he was not the Bishop." - "Was he very shabby?" - "Yes, very shabby indeed." - "Well then, that was the Bishop."

3 April. Went to the College: saw the Bishop and perceived at a glance that he was not pleased with me. After a short conversation on indifferent topics he began about my School at Howick and stated that Captain Smith had expressed himself as very much hurt and offended at my reappointing his rejected man as my Schoolmaster: that he (the Bishop) feared the Captain would withdraw his £50 a year towards the support of a clergyman at Howick and if so, added the Bishop, "I know not how it is to be made up".

I suggested that his Lordship had offered me 170 £ a year unconditionally when I was in England and that since I had been at Howick he had stated that my income was safe and certain to me, whether Captain Smith paid his subscription or not. I also mentioned that his Lordship himself had given me full permission to get a schoolmaster if I could - and that moreover the Captain had never expressed or evinced his displeasure to my face, we acting towards one another as friendly as we had been accustomed. This evidently surprised the Bishop, but he made no further remark than that the Captain had expressed himself very strongly on the subject to Mr Abraham.

I left the College in an uncomfortable state, feeling that unwittingly I had annoyed the Bishop and had risked £50 a year of my small income. The Bishop however did not state what he wished me to do and so the matter shall rest as it is till his Lordship sees fit to exert his authority to put us all in the order he would have us in.

4. Shook hands with Captain and Mrs Smith as usual after Church: thought to myself, "Why can't you be a man and

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LETTERS FROM ENGLAND

tell me to my face that I have offended you, instead of meeting me with smiles here and abusing me behind my back at the College?" I must own I was not pleased with turn: however he is greatly mistaken if he thinks to coerce me to throw aside my schoolmaster to gratify his dislike for the man, for the sake of £50 a year.

9. While [I was] reading to my children in the evening the postman came with letters from England. As I rushed across the room and threw open the window to seize the letter bag, little did I think of the sad and heavy news Anne's letter with the deep black border and black seal revealed to me, even before I assured myself of its truth by breaking it open and devouring its contents. Alas, my poor Mother! How little have I dreamt that she was no longer in the land of the living - and she dead and buried four months ago, and I to know it not. I never have felt so deeply my separation from England and my family as I felt this sad and sorrowful evening.

10. Had an early breakfast and rode over to Auckland to see whether I could send a letter by the Cashmere, a vessel which was advertized to sail this morning, direct for London. Found that the mail would not be closed till 4 o'clock - so went shopping for Blanche, purchasing the requisite mourning for us all.

18. First Sunday after Easter. Morning opened wet, a good prospect for our parched fields but a damper for our Confirmation. I was up very early and had milked the cows and fed the horse, pigs and poultry soon after daybreak. We had breakfast at seven and by nine o'clock everything was prepared for the day's proceedings; the cold dinner laid out and all the children dressed for Church - no slight achievement with but one slow servant.

At ten the Bishop arrived alone - on horseback - with his robes in a mackintosh bag fastened before him across his saddle. At half past ten I opened the Church and arranged my thirteen candidates on the two front forms facing the chancel steps. The next form was occupied by the Christening party, Blanche and the children and dear little Baby.

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APRIL 1852

Immediately after the Second Lesson my little boy was Christened by his Lordship. Mr Mason stood as the sponsor, myself and Mrs Smith as proxies for the other two. In answer to the question "Name this child", Mrs Smith replied "Henry Alfred".

Just as Mr Mason was leaving our house he told us he should make his little godson a present of a heifer calf - I believe he will keep it to take care of all its increase for him. Truly a Colonial present.

19. Rode to Te Puia to see Mr Lusk, to ask him to repay me £17 I had lent him 12 months ago - told me he was very hard up and wanted time. Whereupon I told him he could not be harder up than was I, for I had not £2 to carry me on till the end of June! Whereupon he promised to have the money ready for me this day three weeks.

Thence I went to the Judge's house and saw Mrs Martin, Mrs Kenny and Miss Hector who is to be married tomorrow, had luncheon with them and then proceeded to St Stephen's School, where I met the Bishop. The meeting over I found it was too late to think of returning to Howick, so I secured a bed at the Masonic and went to the Exchange to give directions about my horse.

20. A noisy night, so much singing in the different rooms of the Inn, all of which I heard much too plainly seeing I was occupying a "shakedown" on a sofa in one of the back parlours. Breakfasted with Mrs Thatcher - Mr Thatcher had started at 6 for St John's College to be present at the Wedding: he wished last night that I should accompany him, feeling assured that it was an oversight that Blanche and I were not asked, but I could not think of obtruding myself where I had not been invited. So on my return to Howick I avoided St John's Road altogether and went over "the Scoria", notwithstanding the disrepute that way has fallen into. I trusted to my Cassock for a protection against evil-disposed Europeans or Natives.

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OUR LONELY COAST

18 May. Immediately after breakfast Blanney, Charlotte, Lizzie [Maling], Carry [Hector], Betsy and I started off for our beach on a fishing excursion. We left dear Mamma at home with the three youngest, Elizabeth Merrill being with her to nurse Baby. The tide was fast ebbing, so we wandered a long way under the cliffs, clambering over rocks and wading through soft, wet sea weed.

The little girls took off shoes and stockings and went splashing into the sea up to their knees to their infinite amusement and delight. We collected a large number of oysters, cockles and shrimps, with which we returned laden, reaching home about one o'clock, hungry and tired, and the juveniles wet and dirty enough. I let them do as they pleased for once in the way, but as a general rule we behave with as much propriety on our lonely New Zealand coast as we should do on the crowded shore at Dover or Brighton.

20. After breakfast the same party that went fishing on the beach the day before yesterday went a ramble along our shore but in the opposite direction, to visit Mr Trice, of whom I wanted to buy some pigs. We had a pleasant and merry walk, Blanney and Charlotte carrying their smart clothed dolls, Carry and Lizzie surveying the beautiful views - all being quite new to them.

When we reached Maungagaroa [Maungaroa] Creek we walked as far as the tide would allow and then I tied my handkerchief to a native spear which I had brought with me to use as a walking staff, and signalled the Trices but in vain - no one seemed stirring as far as we could distinguish at the distance we were from the house. At last we tried to light a fire, having some lucifer matches in my pocket, and after a deal of coaxing and puffing and blowing and laughing, we got a blaze and then by the means of damp sea weed we raised a famous column of smoke.

This, we thought, will attract their attention if there be any one there: but even this appeared to fail for, for half an hour, we sat watching across the bay and no one seemed to make to the boat which we saw moored near to the opposite beach;

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MAY 1852

the girls however amused themselves with cooking oysters and cockles and the time was never dull or long to them. At last I said, "We are observed", and soon we distinguished five men coming from the house. One went to the boat, the others drove a very wild cow across the flat sands to the point where the creek is the narrowest; the boat came round to this point, the men got in and by means of a rope round the cow's horns, swam the beast across to the very spot where we were standing. Two of the party I then recognised as the Howick butcher and his man - the cow I presume for our dinner on some future day.

They went their way and we gladly got into the boat and [it] was speedily rowed across, Mr Trice apparently quite pleased at such a party coming to see him. Six visitors were almost too many to enter any house, close upon dinner time, unexpectedly, but Mrs Trice received us most cordially. They had just killed a pig and she gave us a capital dinner off the liver and heart fried with onions and fat, and washed down by several draughts of delicious new milk. We all pronounced our fare quite sumptuous and about 3 o'clock took leave of Mrs Trice and bent our steps once more to the sea shore. Mr Trice and his brother had to carry us through a flat of mud to the boat and then we were quickly on the Howick side; the evening was so mild and bright that they all begged me not to hurry home and, finding our signal fire still smouldering, the little girls must needs remain there cooking more oysters! How they could eat them after their good dinner I know not. However, they had no appetite for Mamma's nice hot potatoes and rashers of bacon, which she had prepared for us with our tea, but a good supply of coffee was most welcome to us all.

24. The Queen's Birthday. Rose very early to go to Auckland: after a gentle and pleasant trot reached St John's College. Saw the new font just arrived from England, large, handsome and made of Normandy stone. Found one of the natives from the island of Lifu dangerously ill; they were all most anxious about him - for his own sake as well as regards

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THE GOVERNOR'S LEVEE

the injurious effect his death, away from all his friends and amidst strangers, might have upon the natives of that Island.

Mr Abraham, Mr Lloyd and Mr Cotton 41 and I started on horseback for Town to attend the Governor's Levee which was to take place at 2 o'clock. Mr Abraham and I rode to Judge Martin's to say we were all coming to dinner after the Levee; we there left our horses and walked into Auckland to the Council Chambers where the Levee was to take place. The day being peculiarly beautiful, the large open space in front was crowded with people, Europeans and Natives - the former dressed in their best, presenting a gay, holiday like appearance.

Here the Judge left us to go into the Council Chamber to robe; Mr Abraham and I put on our Master's gowns where we were standing - it was the first time I had worn mine since I left England. Presently a guard of honour, a detachment of the 58th, marched on to the ground and formed a long avenue from the entrance of the Council Chamber. The band played several pieces also and the whole scene was so pretty and animated that I quite regretted my children and wife were not with me to enjoy the sight.

After a short delay the Lieutenant-Governor marched down the avenue of soldiers, the men presenting arms, the band playing God Save the Queen - then those who had the privilege of the private entry were introduced - such as the Judge, the Captain of the Man-o'-War, the Attorney-General, the Roman Catholic Bishop, &c. After them the hoi polloi followed, including that individual the Papers afterwards designated "Nicesimus Lush"; we marched down the Guard of Honour, in at the chief entrance, where we followed one another in a single line across the Council Chamber to a small side room in which stood, close by another door passing into the front court, the Lieutenant-Governor.

When we arrived at the inner door Major Cockroft received our cards and called out rather loudly: Rev. Mr Lloyd - Rev. Mr Abraham - Rev. Mr Lush, &c.: upon which

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MAY 1852

Messrs Lloyd, Abraham, Lush, &c., bowed to the Governor and made their exit out of the side door as speedily as they could. It was too hurried to be effective and I am greatly disappointed in this, the first Levee I have attended.

Again outside, off went our gowns and Mr Cotton and I went to the ropewalk to see the tables laid out for the Native feast - a truly miserable affair. There was one very long and very narrow table with plates laid for 319 Natives. On each plate there were three things which I conclude were a lump of meat, ditto of pudding and some mashed potatoes. But the whole looked so dark, disagreeable and alike that at a short distance I could not tell the pudding from the meat.

29. Overslept myself - it was broad daylight when I got up and near seven when I started for Auckland. Mr Cotton overtook me: he seems pleased with New Zealand. He is on his travels: last year he traversed much of Europe - this year he came hither - he has visited the South, Canterbury, &c., and intends to remain here with us for about a year, when he proposes visiting Sydney, &c., and so homeward. Pleasant enough, this, for a young, single and wealthy man. The Bishop has put Epsom under his charge for the period of his stay in the North, and he expressed himself as pleased with his work.

On reaching the Punt on my return, Robinson informed me that he expected every moment Captain Smith and 43 new Pensioners - the women, children and baggage having gone round in the Steamer: when I reached Howick it was dark, but hearing that the women and children had just arrived, I rode straight on for the beach, which I found crowded with the new comers and the "old"(?) inhabitants. To all the new arrivals whom I met I gave a few words of kind encouragement, for I found them very down hearted, though compared with what the first comers, four years ago, had to endure on being landed on the very same beach, they had nothing to complain of - their lot, however, for this one night, was not a pleasant one in prospect. They had been separated from their husbands and their luggage - the latter

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PLACING NEW COMERS

was on board the Inchinman, the former marching over the country, the Steamer not being large enough to convey both men and women, and all that they had to hope for was, for each family, an empty cottage - better this than lying out in the fern!

Whit Sunday. Captain Smith not at Church; busy, as I afterwards found, in placing the new comers in the vacated cottages, for it now appears that these poor people were unable to get into their cottages last night, and had it not been for the kindness of the resident Pensioners, the majority of them must have bivouacked all night in the neighbouring fern. My man, Bridgford, for instance, took in a man, his wife and five children, and was up the whole of the night assisting this man in bringing his luggage up from the beach, the steamer having brought the luggage at midnight.

1 June. Dear Blanney's birthday. Took her to Auckland with Betsy. Visited the New Shop - a really good substantial and handsome brick building - with a shop whose size and internal fittings would not disgrace Regent Street; built by Mr Forsayth, a draper; the brick houses are fast superseding the wood ones.

9. Bridgford not coming early, I had to attend to all my live stock myself. Just before breakfast Bridgford brought me 5 fine young apple trees and a root of violet; planted them at once and then went in doors to enjoy with excellent appetite pork and potatoes.

After dinner Bridgford and I went hunting about for young trees and suceeded in getting a number of Pohutukawas, Pukapukas, and several handsome evergreens the name of which we knew not. On returning home found a Mr Wilson, a new arrival in these parts though he has been upwards of nineteen years in the Colony: he has bought 300 acres in our neighbourhood. He comes from the Bay of Plenty: mentioned that the Natives there are well off - possessing small sailing vessels - horses - mills and agricultural implements. But he confirmed that the Maories are fast diminishing in numbers.

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JUNE 1852

12. Heard that the Gwalior was in sight of Auckland: sailed from London in November, arrives here in June - seven months! The account of her most distressing. The Children, a small sailing vessel, ran along side of her off the Bay of Islands and found the Passengers in a most deplorable state: for several weeks they had had nothing but red herrings and porter! - provisions and water having been exhausted long since!

The Captain, it is said, became mad during the voyage from drink, and has stabbed three of the passengers - opened the Mail! And read and then thrown away many of the letters over board. The Children gave them nine gallons of water and some bread and brought two of the unfortunate passengers on to Auckland! The excitement caused must be great.

14. Just before dinner young Wilson called. Staid and had dinner; gave him one of Blanche's open tarts with preserved fruit gourd - pronounced it most delicious but puzzled as to what it was: which amused us, as he has been as many years in the Island as we have months - viz. 19 - and therefore we had concluded he was well acquainted with the colonial makeshifts for the better fruits and preserves of the old country. 42

In the afternoon I rode to Mr Mason's: Wilson accompanied me on foot. Shortly after our arrival there came a very heavy storm of rain and wind, so we staid tea and sat by their large blazing wood fire for a long time, enjoying a pleasant chat. The storm continuing, Wilson determined to avail himself of Mr Mason's offer of a "shakedown" - but I mounted Jessie and faced the rain, anxious to allay the anxiety I felt sure dear Blanche would be feeling about me. The night was so dark I could not see the horse's head, so giving her the bridle I went whither she would carry me: but some two hundred yards from the house she got bewildered and stood still and refused to stir.

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THE MAD CAPTAIN

This was anything but an agreeable position for me - the wind howling around me and the rain soaking me to the skin, and I stuck upon a horse's back immovable. I at last determined to shout in the hopes of someone hearing me and thanks to my strong lungs and the wind which blew towards Mr Mason's, they at last heard my shouts for help - and right glad was I when Kelly at last found me out and took hold of my horse's reins, and led her some half mile onward till we got on a well beaten track. I gave the lad a shilling for his trouble, but from the moment he came up to my side till he took my money and bid me good night, I saw him not - it was so pitchy dark.

Went immediately to bed and had some hot spiced gruel which kept off all rheumatism and sent me sound asleep.

15. Heard that just as the Gwalior was about to enter the Harbour on Sunday evening she was observed to stand out to sea and to be making off! It was supposed that the mad Captain was afraid to come in - so the Lieutenant-Governor sent the Man-o'-war after her to bring her in and the Captain was immediately seized and put in irons. One lady I hear is not expected to live - she has been so terrified and so starved during the voyage - how very thankful I am that I and my family had not come by such a truly unlucky ship.

7 July. My schoolmaster, Mr Hills, rather alarmed me by saying that: School did not answer, producing but 11 shillings a week. Fearing that he should throw up his situation and burden me with his office, I offered to alter the children's payments from 2d a week for one in family, and 3d for two, to one shilling a month for every child; and in addition to the children's pence, I promised to give him £15 a year as a gratuity. This seemed to satisfy him.

10. Received a note from Mr Thatcher requesting me to attend a Committee Meeting of the Board of Missions on Monday next.

12. All last night it rained incessantly. After breakfast the weather suddenly cleared up and I felt constrained to start

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JULY 1852

for Auckland. Just as I reached the College Mr Abraham was leaving for town too, so we rode together.

Found out that one reason of the Bishop's displeasure at my appointing Mr Hills to the Howick School was that it thwarted him in his plan of sending one of the College youths to fill that post, preparatory to his advancement to the Diaconate. But why did not his Lordship forewarn me of his plans? How could I tell his intentions? Heard too, that the Honble Miss Clinton wished to return to New Zealand.

13. Early this morning sent Bridgford with Jessie and the cart down to the Beach for the Box, which for the last ten days the dear children have been so very anxiously expecting. The weather being fine again I unpacked it at once, Blanney, Charlotte, Minnie and Charles assisting in carrying the various parcels indoors as fast as I could hand them to them.

After dinner we all (Betsy included) assembled round the table and I went and fetched, first of all, the parcels directed to "Master Charles Lush". These we opened seriatim, and highly delighted was my little boy with his various presents: then came all the presents for Mary and then for Charlotte and Blanney, and the interest and excitement, the surprise and the pleasure, increased as each successive cord was cut.

When the children's excitement was a little subsided, I told them there was one more box to open and I put it on the table, a long narrow deal box which was locked: they scanned it with inquisitive eyes, hardly knowing what to guess, though Charlotte would have it that it must be Mary's doll; Blanney on the other hand said it could not be, as Mary was not yet six, the time Aunt Eliza had fixed upon to give it. "Well," I said, "we will soon settle the point by opening the box, but you must all leave the room, and when I know what is inside I will call you."

Charlie tried to peep through the key hole, a proceeding which quite shocked Mary who doubtless wished to do so herself - but I soon put an end to their guesses and their disputes by calling them in, and in they rushed and oh how pleased they were when I told them it was indeed the wax

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LORD ROBERT CECIL

doll. In a few minutes dear Minnie was finding some vent for her immense pleasure by taking her doll into every room in the house, for all the chairs and tables, as she said, to see her beautiful Baby.

20. The Post brought me my paper, the New Zealander - saw that the Raven had just arrived from Sydney: among the passengers was a nobleman, Lord Robert Cecil, 43 an unusual importation into this far distant Colony. While [I was] conjecturing the why and wherefore of his coming the school bell rang and off I had to go to the first class.

After taking them for about an hour, returned home to teach my own little girls - a far pleasanter task I must confess. About | past 12 ran into my garden for a little recreation and just as, reaping hook in hand, I was about to cut a kit of green food for my calf, who should ride down my drive but Mr Abraham with a stylish young man with a long beard. "Well, Mr Lush," said Mr Abraham, "how do you do? Allow me to introduce you to Lord Robert Cecil."

Lord Robert and I forthwith exchanged salutations and smiles; whether his smile was at seeing the Howick clergyman in a broad brim straw hat and a scotch plaid shooting jacket I don't know, but I almost fancy it was. But there was no help for it nor did I care about it. Mr Abraham asked whether the stable was disengaged for their horses and, bidding them go in and put their horses up and I would be with them immediately, I went in doors - to apprise dear Blanche of the visitors and then to put on my black trousers and cassock, so I quickly appeared before his Lordship in a more seemly dress: he was stabling his horse very handily.

He seemed pleased with the Church, settlement, and extensive prospects on all sides - asked numberless questions about the School - the men - the officers, and their chief occupations. When we returned Blanche had everything comfortable and as their time was very limited we had dinner immediately, the dinner we had provided for ourselves - a boiled leg of pork, potatoes, and pumpkin and cheese with

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JULY-AUGUST 1852

some good bottled stout. He and Mr Abraham, homely as the fare was, made a hearty meal and directly rose to leave us, being anxious evidently to be back very early.

28. Charlie had his first lesson in needlework. Mamma is going to teach him to hem and sew - now it will keep him quiet and amused for a short time every day and by and by it may be of use to him if his lot should be to live up in the bush - he could then put on a button or mend his inexpressibles quite independently of the tailor!

2 August. Went to the College: called at the Smiths' on my way. Found that the Captain had been very ill for the last week. They are making great improvements around their house, planting trees and laying out a garden.

Mr Abraham told me there was a donkey (the only one in New Zealand) at the College belonging to Judge Martin who wished to find for it a Master and asked me whether I would accept it. I acquiesced, greatly to the pleasure of my children, as I found when I told them of it.

10. Mr Abraham sent me word that "Trot" the donkey, Mr Martin considered, belonged to the Bishop and therefore it must await his Lordship's return as to whether it will be given to us. We are to have the use of it in the meanwhile.

25. Trot came today to the great delight of the children. I was told that as he was being led through the village the people came running out of their cottages to see him, saying "Oh la - there's a donkey, the first I have seen in New Zealand." Charlie had the first ride; Jessie was frightened out of her wits at the very sight of Trot's long ears and rushed about like a mad horse - but I dare say they will soon get good friends.

29. A beautiful sunny and cheerful day, Flora McDonald came and spent the afternoon with the children. Blanche went out on Trot, I walking by her side; Captain McDonald lent us a lady's saddle. When we came home I gave Trot

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BETSY SEVERELY REPROVED

over to the children and Betsy, who rode in turns about our fields to their hearts' content.

31. Blanche busy making a riding skirt for herself. Betsy has made one for the children.

2 September. The whole settlement in a ferment about the election of a Member for the Provincial Council: Mr Mason one of the candidates; bribery and corruption as rampant here as could possibly have been at St Albans.

3. Mr Mason lost the election by nine votes.

29. Had to reprove Betsy this morning with some severity for violently striking poor dear Blanney so as to leave the marks of all five fingers on her arm. Poor Blanney's offence was not dressing Charlie quickly enough to please Betsy. I should have dismissed her had I been in England - but here - what am I to do? Had she gone and no place to go to - she would have gone to ruin; and if we lost her we might be without a servant for months and months, or have far worse servants than poor Betsy.

4 October. To Onehunga and called upon Mrs Warrington, arranging with her to come and stay a short time at our house during her husband's stay at the gold diggings: had tea and a "shakedown" at the Purchases'.

5. Another wet day - left Onehunga in a torrent of rain but was well protected, being clothed in waterproof leggings and cloak.

On reaching Howick found that Mr Hills, my Schoolmaster, had been summoned before Captain Smith on a charge of bigamy - which he did not deny. Hills came and resigned his office and I have the unpleasant prospect of turning schoolmaster again.

6. Went to the School at 9 o'clock. A large attendance of children: felt tired enough when the clock struck 12. While at dinner a man came up to offer his services as Schoolmaster,

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OCTOBER 1852

which I immediately accepted, subject to the approval of the Bishop.

11. Mrs Warrington arrived on Jessie, whom Bridgford had taken to Epsom this morning for her to ride upon; Bridgford was loaded with her luggage. Mrs Warrington is looking thin and anxious - no wonder with her husband at the "Diggings", and she left alone in a strange land.

14. Having to go to the College I took Blanney on Trot as far as Captain Haultain's. A party of natives met us on the road who, evidently, had never before seen a donkey. They were much astonished at Trot and to Blanney's great amusement gathered round her, and one pulled Trot's ears, another stroked his nose and another caught hold of his tail, and they grinned and chatted like so many monkeys.

Mrs Selwyn was at the College, looking better but still very poorly and very anxious about the Bishop of whom she has not heard anything since his departure. She expected a Mr Hogg to come to the College this evening, a clergyman who with two youths, 15 and 16 years of age, his pupils, have been travelling through New Zealand and have just arrived in Auckland, having walked from Wellington through the interior! The pupils cannot have much instruction tramping about in this style: from Auckland they purpose going to Sydney and thence to the "Diggings"! I have often heard of Tutors taking their pupils on a tour of the Continent - but this is the first time I have heard of a Tutor bringing his pupils from Europe to make the tour of New Zealand! One of the youths is the son of the Honble and Revd Mr Robinson.

19. Mr Hills opened a school again in his own cottage. Fourteen of my scholars immediately deserted me.

21. Mrs Warrington and I rode to Captain Smith's, whom we found dangerously ill, suffering from rheumatism and ague, the sad effects of the very unhealthy situation in which he has placed his house.

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GOLD! GOLD!

25. Mrs Warrington left us to go to the Macleans' for a few weeks: she is in low spirits about her husband, the intelligence from Melbourne being so very sad: provisions high - shelter almost unattainable - and murders most frequent.

After having given Blanney and Charlotte their usual amount of "schooling" I rode leisurely over to St John's to pay my respects to the Bishop, and to congratulate him on his safe return. His Lordship was in Town so I had not the pleasure of seeing him, but from Mrs Selwyn I learnt that his voyage had been most prosperous as regards weather and the inhabitants of the Isles.

I saw a journal one of the Maories had kept during the voyage: most beautifully written (in Maori of course) with numerous illustrations in the shape of neatly executed drawings of various trees, fruits, articles of clothing, &c., &c. Mr Nihill was left at Lifu while the Bishop went on to the other islands.

5 November. Poor Mr Cotton still dangerously ill. The Bishop sat up and watched him all last night. Mr Abraham is nursing him today.

Had a long conversation with the Bishop about my school and offered to take the sole charge of it again to the Bishop's evident satisfaction, a step rendered necessary from the great inefficiency of Gormansby who has reduced the number of scholars to less than 20 - two months ago it was upwards of 80.

6. Gold! Gold! Nothing else thought of, talked of, dreamt of! Rumoured through the village that some has been found on a farm close by, within half an hour's walk from my house. What a terrible misfortune to us if true! Flour has already risen to 30/0 the 100 lbs; tea, candles, rice getting up, up, up - what shall we do? Joined to this the prospect of no obtainable labour, consequently of having to clean the knives and boots and chop the wood and draw the water and crop my land, all with my own hands - in addition to the being village schoolmaster and teaching my own girls. Well

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NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 1852

might dear Blanche declare that it had been far better if we had never left England or, coming here, if Gold had never been found.

21. Forgot to mention that Mr Cotton breathed his last on the morning of the 15th. Poor man, he came out for his health and up to the time of his departure up the Waikato had improved greatly, but he never recovered the shock his constitution sustained from so imprudently bathing when warm in one of our peculiarly cold mountain streams.

23. During school one of the boys took out from his waistcoat pocket a small nugget of gold and was showing it about as in my school boy days one would have exhibited a favourite marble. It was picked up in the island of Waiheki, just over against Howick.

2 December. One boy in the school gave me a sample of the iron sand found in various spots along our beach, from which Gold can be washed. And another boy gave me a specimen of quartz a Pensioner dug up at Pigeon Mountain, and which is thought to be rich in Gold!

11. Heard that poor Mr Churton is grievously offended at the Bishop having dared to appoint Mr Abraham Archdeacon [of Waitemata] and not himself: as if the Bishop could appoint a man who has for ten years past systematically opposed the Bishop in every possible way, and has declared very recently that he would never cooperate with him.

After breakfast rode on to Auckland. Stopt in at Connel & Ridings' the auctioneers to see some gold from the diggings, there being today the first sale of native gold in our Colony. It wanted some quarter of an hour to the time of the auction and Mr Ridings beckoned me to him and showed me several very pretty specimens of gold in the iron sand - and gold in small nuggets, as also in the Quartz - the latter being the prettiest form for specimens of gold in cabinets &c., and could I have afforded it I should [have] liked to have purchased a few pieces to send to my dear friends in England, but I am hard up indeed just now.

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A GREAT EXTRAVAGANCE

From Auckland rode over to Epsom to see Mr Lusk about a young man Mr Purchas thought might suit me as a Schoolmaster for my school; I trust he may.

16. The Archdeacon summoned me to a meeting of the clergy at St Stephen's School near Auckland. When I knocked at Mr Kissling's door at the appointed time I found he had gone to St John's College, the meeting having been altered to that place for my convenience, being 5 miles nearer to Howick!

While in town was guilty of a great extravagance in purchasing a very nice light cart and harness. The cart, on patent springs, will hold six - two in front and four behind - so that Blanche and the children will now, I trust, be able to accompany me occasionally to Auckland. It is more than two years since Blanche was in town. Had my horse harnessed to it at once, putting my saddle inside and picking up a Howick man to whom I promised a ride on the condition of making himself useful on the road, I started back again for home, intending to call in at St John's on my way. The cause of my absence was quickly explained and Mr Abraham seemed very vexed and made many apologies for the mistake which had arisen through his not letting me know of the alteration in the place of meeting.

The children greeted my return home with many exclamations of joy at the sight of the long looked for light cart, and all must needs clamber in, to be driven by Papa up the drive to the yard. Mamma too highly approved of it, and during tea many a jaunt was planned - more perhaps than will ever be carried out.

18. Paid a round of visits in the village; highly gratified with the exceeding flourishing state of several of the men's allotments, seeing a profusion of fine fruits of all sorts and bringing home a kit full of raspberries for the youngsters after dinner, from Corporal Brady's very pretty and very fruitful garden.

23. Dr Warrington come back already from Port Phillip, utterly disgusted with the gold mines! Brings word that

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DECEMBER 1852-JANUARY 1853

hundreds are but waiting the opportunity to escape from Melbourne and come over to New Zealand, but that with all the better class of people the fact of Gold having been discovered near Auckland has operated as a prejudice in their mind against our settlement - they have already in Australia seen the curse such a discovery can bring upon a whole community.

Christmas Day. May all our dear friends in England have spent as happy a Christmas Day as it has been our fortunate lot to have here in New Zealand. We had a famous dinner - boiled turkey - cold ham - roast beef - potatoes and beans - plum pudding and tartlets: beer of our own brewing, bread of our own baking. The pudding, than which I never tasted a better, was made after Blanche's Grandmother's receipt, and a cake we had at tea was made according to a receipt written by her Great-Grandmother. The good old ladies never dreamt of their puddings and cakes being made a 100 years after at the antipodes.

Then came the very pretty puzzles, remembrances of kind friends far away in space but ever near in thought and affection - and as a wind up a famous dish of snapdragon closed the amusements of the evening. Out of doors it is still raining heavily and the wind is blowing a stiff gale; but there is no cold, no want of a fire.

2 January 1853. The last week has been quite a gay week for us, having been out three days pleasuring and visiting, a sad result of dissipation from having a light cart, but Blanche found the journey to Auckland so far less fatiguing than formerly that she was tempted to go out one day as far as Epsom and Onehunga, calling upon the Lusks, the Warringtons and the Purchases.

Mr Warrington was robbed of his purse and watch while at Melbourne and the whole time he was there never knew what it was to undress and get into a bed for rest - but slept in his clothes and boots and with a couple of loaded pistols close by! I think he will never be persuaded to adventure himself to Gold mines again as long as he lives; the real mine

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A FALSE ALARM

of wealth compatible with health, comfort and safety, is one's own farm - our men are getting £30 an acre for Potatoes as they stand in the ground, and 7/6 a bushel for oats as they stand in the field.

24. After school started in the heavy cart for Auckland - heard on the road that the Governor, journeying overland from Wellington to Auckland, had been stabbed by a Chief!

Took my horse and cart to Mr Wilson's new residence about two miles from town, tethered Jessie in the paddock and then walked to Mr Kissling's where as usual I got my supper and a shakedown for the night. Mr Kissling told me that Mr Churton was dangerously ill; four medical men had been in attendance this evening and despaired of his recovery.

26. Mr Churton died at 3 o'clock this morning - poor man, he has been ill but four days. St Paul's is thus vacant; Mr Churton has held the Incumbency for the last 12 years. He remembered when the site of Auckland was a fern field; not a habitation for miles around, only a few tents pitched by the sea side.

30. The false report of the Governor having been killed at Wellington and that he was buried at Nelson originated thus: A European told a Maori that the great Chief "Wellington" was dead and that he was to be buried by the side of Nelson. Through some misapprehension on the part of the native, probably through the European being unable to speak Maori fluently, the New Zealander went away with the impression that "the Chief" (meaning the Governor) had died at Wellington and was to be buried at Nelson - hence the report which at first greatly alarmed us all.

31. Rode into Town with Captain McDonald to attend Mr Churton's funeral. The Captain was in full uniform - there is a custom here for as many as see fit to attend any funeral without invitation, so when the deceased is well known the attendance is very large. In this instance it was enormous; Churton having been for many years Colonial Chaplain, Chaplain to the Forces and Incumbent of St Paul's, almost

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JANUARY - FEBRUARY 1853

every one from his Excellency the Lieutenant-Governor to the smallest shop keeper in Auckland attended, turning out to pay respects to his memory.

Soldiers carried the coffin and a very large portion of the troops followed him to the grave, who walking two and two with a very long line of civilians two and two, made the longest procession that has ever been seen in Auckland. I could not realise to myself that I was at a funeral - it appeared like some huge club procession - for throughout the whole route from St Paul's Church to the cemetery there were hundreds of women and children and men, all in holiday attire, walking along with the procession on each side of it. It seemed indeed a general holiday for every shop was closely shut and every-body seemed out of doors, but I hear this is very much the custom of the place; only, of course, not with ordinary funerals to so great an extent. In the procession I walked first with the Attorney-general and afterwards with the Archdeacon. I dined at Mr Kissling's and had tea at the Judge's and rather late rode back with Captain McDonald - he is a hard rider and most of the way we came along at a hunting pace.

2 February. One of the prettiest sights I have yet seen in Howick passed along our Gulf this evening. It was a bright, glorious calm evening, the sea looking all blue and gold and the distant mountains magnificent in the rays of the declining sun. While we were enjoying the freshness of the atmosphere and our lovely scene, no less than sixteen war canoes fitted with warriors came into view and passed along to the river Thames on their return from Auckland whither they had been, I presume, to take part in the Regatta last Monday. Nothing could look prettier than these large canoes moving through the water in a long row, each with 2 or 3 small snow white sails up, shining in the sunshine and contrasting beautifully with the dark blue sea around them. Two or three small yachts belonging to Europeans sailing near them added much to the general effect.

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THE SMALLPOX EXPECTED

8. Called at the Surveyor's Office and made application for 200 acres of land close by Howick. There is a doubt whether I can have it - if it should be granted me I fear I must pay£2 an acre: a high price here.

9. In the afternoon Horatia [Hector], Blanney, Charlotte, Alary, Charlie and Betsy were vaccinated from dear little Alfred's arm. The smallpox is raging fearfully at Melbourne and with the constant communication between Auckland and that Town, the disease is expected to break out here.

11. After school I called upon a Corporal of the name of Smyth and, after a little coaxing, succeeded in getting him to take the management of the School, so I hope once more to get free from this, to me, unpleasant burden. I have to pay him, however, 18/6 a month.

24. Blanche and I went to Mr Hargreaves' to dinner, a farewell visit. They are going to Sydney for a year.

26. Went to see when I could pay for my land, as I am anxious to enclose it and prepare for the coming "wet season" - but I must wait as one has to do for everything in New Zealand: the Survey is not completed and the Surveyor-General is in the country and this thing and that thing, so one's time is wasted and the season is lost.

5 March. A quiet regular week: teaching my own children and an hour each day at the School, visiting in the Parish and many hours of hard work in the garden constitute the business of the week. We have had some heavy gales and severe torrents of rain during the last four days - still I and two men have contrived to dig up 4673 lbs of Potatoes. I hope I shall have another ton, when I think I shall have done well - three tons off somewhat like a 1/4 of an acre of land.

16. The Revd Messrs Wilson and Burrows came and said they had been overlooking the land adjoining the farm I had applied for, with the intention of asking the Government for it for the site of a Native Training School. So we shall have an increase to our Howick society - Mr and Mrs Burrows.

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MARCH 1853

As they have a young family I hope Blanney and Charlotte will meet with a young companion or two.

22. I was obliged to offer Betsy a passage home to Farrington which, however, she unfortunately obstinately refused. She has been so tiresome - so provoking - that Blanche truly says all her domestic happiness is well nigh destroyed. I have noticed she is always worse after the marriage of any of the young Howick girls; I suppose it is a fear that she may be passed over.

I wished her also to go to Auckland to try to get a situation there, but no - she said she would not leave us and turn her off I cannot. It was a great mistake and an expensive one to have brought a domestic at all.

24. Suffering from a bad abscess on the outer ankle of my left foot; it has been coming on the week past. Nevertheless, went to Auckland to ask Mr Whitaker, the lawyer, to secure my farm for me as I learn that the Surveyor General pays more attention to the Profession than to the applications of private individuals.

Saw Mr Kissling and Mr Burrows and was pleased to find that they were still in the mind to fix upon Howick as a site for the central Native School for Teachers.

30. A most glorious day, a marvellous contrast to yesterday. Expecting Mr Burrows down to inspect the land he hopes to induce the Government to give him. His boat came in sight and with him came Mr Kissling and Mr Vidal, the Lay Secretary of the Church Missionary Society for the Southern Hemisphere.

We went at once to the land - I showed them the 95 acres the Government were going to allow to me, and the adjoining land to the extent of 33 acres was the block for them.

31. Another beautiful day. As yesterday was Betsy's birthday, I promised to take her a long walk, and she and Blanney and Charlotte accompanied me today to Mr Trice's.

I have two objects in view in going there; 1st was to buy half a dozen pigs - the 2nd was to show off Betsy (of course

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MY LITTLE SCHEME

she was ignorant of my intention) to the younger Trice, in the hope that he might be smitten by her pretty face. We had a pleasant ramble along the beach and then through the fern, in many parts higher than poor little Charlotte's head, so that in one or two places I had to hoist her on my back in order to fight our way along. The tide being in, we had to take the inland path which brings one to a very high and steep cliff just opposite the Trices' place: here we had to clamber down on all fours - to my great alarm lest an accident should befall the children, but to their infinite amusement.

At the bottom a few minutes brought us to the sand bank immediately opposite the house and here, as before, we lighted a fire as a signal for a boat. But for an hour and a half no boat came; at last a little ding[h]y came across with one man in it (it would hold no more) who told us that the Trices were at Paparoa (Howick) and begged me to fix the day I would come next as he was sure they would be home to receive us - so I named this day week. Long before we reached the Parsonage we felt the want of food and little Charlotte in particular thought it so sad the man had not brought us over some bread and milk! We got back at 4 o'clock and immediately set to and made a very considerable difference to the cold roast beef.

7 April. All of us went in the light cart to the Sandspit cliff at the entrance to Mungamungaroa Creek where Blanche, Mary, Charlie and the Baby remained while Betsy, Blanney, Charlotte and I scrambled down to the sands below. The Trices came over immediately, having recognised us directly we came in sight. I excused myself on the plea of having to rejoin Mrs Lush, and sent Betsy and the two children across to spend the day on the other side. This was a little scheme of my own devising, thinking that young Trice would talk to Betsy more freely if I were not present.

I bought some pigs, then returned to Blanche: we took a short drive along our romantic ranges and returned home shortly after one o'clock. About 1 o'clock Betsy and the

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APRIL 1853

children returned home (I had sent Bridgford to meet them and walk with them) highly delighted with their day's pleasure, and I hope from the deal Betsy had to say of the Trices - "Such nice people," &c., &c. - that my matrimonial schemes will succeed.

10. Second Sunday after Easter. On my way to Panmure rode round to the Smiths' whom we had not seen for some time; not a little astonished to see as I approached the house a large "wash" hanging out to dry!

The object of my call was to express my hope that the Captain as Resident Magistrate would oppose the opening of another Public House in Howick, one of the Privates having applied for a license. To my great surprise and disgust found the Captain favourable to the application. The report through the neighbourhood is that it is with the Captain's money that the house is to be established. Told him my mind very freely so I suppose we shall be henceforward even more distant than heretofore.

11. Rode over to Onehunga and saw Major Kenny. Stated the fact of the Private, Owen Lynch, having applied for a license for a public house - that Captain Smith was favourable for it - and that I feared it would be granted. And that if so it would be the ruin of Howick, &c., &c. - and begged him to do what he could to stop it.

The Major expressed his astonishment at the Captain's conduct and promised that if Owen Lynch opened a house on his one-acre allotment in the village he would not only turn him out of the force and take away his cottage and land, but call the officer who allowed him to have the license in question for his indiscretion.

From the Major's went to Mr Purchas' - had dinner - Mr Purchas rode back with me to Howick. In the course of conversation learnt, what I had long suspected, that St John's College was going to be broken up. It has for some time past struck me as a failure - they are but waiting the Bishop's return from Wellington to wind up the accounts and let the

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THE HEIGHT OF FASHION

place for a large farm. What a blow to the poor Bishop whose pet the College has been for so many years past!

15. Mr Kennedy, the chief Manager of the Australian Bank, called just after breakfast and asked me to show him the way to Mungamungaroa Creek. He talked of buying 500 acres about 5 miles from Howick and he has agreed to make an application for me for the adjoining 500 acres - promising, if necessary, to advance for me the necessary sum of money to secure the property. I propose at present to let it to Mr Mason for 7 years, for nothing; he will fence it and bring the whole into cultivation, and probably 7 years hence it may be worth £400 a year. But here I am again, as usual, counting my chickens before they are hatched.

18. Went to Auckland. The whole Town in a ferment about our coming elections under the new constitution - Colonel Wynyard is one and the favourite candidate for the office of "Superintendent".

Saw the half dozen Maories who have just returned from the Australian gold fields with £1000, swaggering about dressed in the height of fashion, with gold headed canes in their hands and cigars in their mouths. So their money will go, I suspect, as quickly as it came. They were a fine, handsome set of men who had adopted the European custom of wearing a long beard. Were I not a clergyman I almost fancy I should myself have allowed my beard to grow, it is so general a custom - provided I had not been frightened at its ugly colour.

25. Rode to the College after breakfast to pay my respects to the Bishop. As I went into the College stables met Mr Lloyd who told me the Bishop and the Governor, together with the Attorney-General, Colonel Wynyard, Major Cockcroft and Captain Drury were in the School examining the Melanesians; thither I went and heard the conclusion of the business, which was probably the most pleasing part of all, viz. their singing, which they learnt to do most beautifully from notes and in parts, showing great aptness. Six months ago they were wholly ignorant of anything of the sort.

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APRIL-MAY 1853

27. Gathered in my crop of Indian corn - all the children busy with me in turning back the seed leaves and fastening two cobs together in order to hang them over a line to dry: a rather tedious work but relieved greatly by the joyous spirit of the little ones. Blanney and Charlotte amused one another for a short time with trying to invent riddles for themselves to guess.

30. Went into Auckland and paid for my farm of 500 acres.

2 May. Mrs Hargreaves sent Baby a beautiful hat in the style of Edward VI or Harry the VIII. Alfred looked very well in it - of course he did.

10. Started for Auckland in my heavy cart for a load of provisions. - sugar - flour - groceries, &c. Through much rain and gross neglect of government the roads are in a shocking state, most of the way to the Tamaki knee deep in mud, besides which a causeway over a swamp about a mile from Howick has broken in leaving but a narrow path, barely sufficient for a horse to pass over. So I took with me two stout puriri planks and Bridgford, and by laying these planks down over the holes we managed to get the cart safely over. Bridgford hid the planks in the neighbouring rushes to be at hand tomorrow on my return and then he went back to the Parsonage and I drove on to the Ferry - sticking and sliding and plunging in the wet clay at every step poor Jessie made.

At the Ferry heard the exceeding pleasing news that the Cashmere had really at last arrived. So with a gladsome heart I pushed on for Town with more spirit. Passing through Panmure the intelligence was confirmed by hearing that Captain Haultain had just started for Town in a cart for his long looked for sister-in-law.

16. Called on the Governor, Sir George Grey. Stated that now nearly four months ago I had applied at the Surveyor's Office for a piece of land near Howick and that I felt much aggrieved that I had not been put into possession of it. Sir

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THE HOWICK HUNDRED

George stated that he had heard nothing about it (he has but just returned from Wellington) but that he was sorry such a delay had taken place and promised to look into the business and hasten the sale as much as possible. I fear however that it will be months before I get it, the Government officials are so very slow.

19. Saw an extract from the Government Gazette in which several lots of land on the "East Tamaki" were advertized for public auction on the 15th of next month and among the number the piece I have applied for, though they have called it 101 acres instead of, as I thought it was, 97. So the Governor has been as good as his word and has "hastened the sale as much as possible". By the local ordinance any land applied for must be advertized for four weeks before it can be sold, and then it is sold only by public auction, the upset price being £1 an acre: so after having waited even thus long for this farm, it is still possible that I may never get it for it is open for anyone to outbid me though such a proceeding among purchasers of land is, I hear, very rare. This land being within the "Hundred of Howick" is sold under a different ordinance to that by which I bought the 500 acres - this lot (the 500) is without the Hundred, and therefore can be purchased at once without advertisements or competition for a fixed price of ten shillings an acre.

22. Trinity Sunday. There was an ordination of no ordinary interest held at St Paul's Church today, for a Maori - the first native who has attained so good a degree - was admitted to Deacon's Orders. His name is Rota Waitoa and he has been with the Bishop for many years past; he is an intelligent man and of course bears a very high character as regards his religious knowledge and good steady conduct, but he is a heavy, inactive man and, I fear, is not one to maintain much influence over a Native Mission Station, especially if left to himself without the countenance and support of an English clergyman - and such I hear will be his position, a very isolated one on the East Coast. Mr Thatcher and Mr Ashwell

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MAY-JUNE 1853

were admitted to Priests' Orders. The Bishop, as usual, preached right eloquently and (what a novelty in St Paul's) the latter part of his sermon was in Maori.

24. The Queen's Birthday. The Governor held the annual Levee. I forgot all about it till too late to reach Auckland in time. The Reverend Rota Waitoa was presented to his Excellency.

30. I went to Town to ask Mrs Thatcher to give Mrs Lush a bed in her house if she came to town tomorrow. While we were at lunch Mr Lloyd, the new incumbent of St Paul's, came; he had been trying to get a house, for there is no Parsonage. There is a great difficulty about it - rents are rising; a little cottage of four rooms they are asking £60 and £80 a year for - I wish I had a dozen houses in Auckland just now.

After shopping, &c., called at the Judge's on my way home, to pay my respects to him and the Bishop. Caught them at dinner so went in to partake of some capital cheer. The Bishop told me he should go to England after he had taken the Melanesians back to their respective islands. The cause - or one cause - of his going seems to be the anomalous condition of the Canterbury Settlement. He was requested to resign his charge as Bishop over that tract of land; he did so and an Act of Parliament was passed to make legal his resignation. And the Canterbury Settlement is without a Bishop of their own and without the prospect of having one and are angry with our Bishop for not coming and acting as a Bishop over them. As his Lordship remarked: "If I took any legal steps in the matter with anyone there, the party might turn round and say truly, 'You are not our Bishop. I deny you the right to interfere'." What a tangle the whole Canterbury scheme seems to have been!

1 June. Dear Blanney's birthday. To be kept however, when Mamma is at home. She amused herself with writing a letter to her Aunt Eliza and then, Betsy being out, she cooked our dinner and laid the cloth very nicely indeed. I never dreamt

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MISS CLINTON BACK

that any child of mine at 10 years of age could have done so much, and had we remained in England perhaps she would not have been able, but a colony soon compels one to depend on self rather than domestics. Should Betsy leave, an event devoutly to be wished, it is very probable we may see whether we cannot manage without an indoor domestic.

Heard that the Honble Miss Clinton has returned to New Zealand in the Sir Edward Paget.

2. Blanche came home about 4 o'clock after a fatiguing ride from the College where she slept last night. She tells me the Honble Miss Clinton is lodging in very small apartments in Town. How strange! To come twice over the sea to New Zealand and at last to settle herself down in such lodgings and in such a place as Auckland. She left the first time in disgust at everything in the Colony - but she is back again. For why? I should like to know.

5. A Mr Hill, a new arrival by the Cashmere, called today: and brought a letter of introduction from Mr Kissling. He has bought a large farm close by Howick and came to see whether Captain McDonald would let him occupy his large house, which the Captain does not at present want, until such time as he - Mr Hill - can build upon his own farm.

He has a large family - his eldest son is at Oxford - his second son has secured a position in the Custom House at Auckland - his eldest daughter has gone as a governess to Mrs Whitaker's children. The rest, some six or seven, came with him and Mrs Hill to Howick.

9. The Steward of the Cashmere, when that vessel put in to Plymouth, bought for 5/0 a skylark - he brought it safely to Auckland and the day after the vessel dropt her anchor he sold it for Five Pounds. If the success of the Steward of the Cashmere in selling his little British bird for as many pounds as he gave shillings for it in England could be made known to the stewards and the crew of vessels coming hither, might it not induce others to try their luck in the same way, and thus should we not in time have the lark - the robin and the sparrow introduced and naturalised - an event greatly to

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JUNE 1853

be wished. I have no doubt a pair of Robins - regular red breasts - would readily fetch £5 to £10. We have a bird called the Robin but though like his British cousin in shape and habits his breast is black and I must confess I look upon him with great contempt.

14. Called on Mr Whitaker and reminded him of the land sale today in which the piece I applied for last February is at last brought under the auctioneer's hammer. He went to bid for me and after [my] waiting some hours in his office, he came back saying it was mine - it having been knocked down to him at the upset price of £1 an acre. I wrote him out a cheque for, £101. 17. 6, there being 101 acres and a fraction, and offered him his due, viz, £5, which he refused to my great surprise, saying that he treated it as an office of a friend not as a matter of business: I went home in high spirits.

Met Mr Abraham at the College. Told me he was absent when I called yesterday on a peculiarly affecting duty. An old sailor called John, who had lived a lonely life some two miles from the College for many years past, was found dead and he had been to bury the poor man. He had lived in solitariness and was buried in solitude, for there was no one at his funeral but Mr Abraham, not a soul to follow as mourner but the Clergyman. The coffin Mr Abraham had ordered was not forthcoming and at last Mr A. was compelled to get four natives to carry him from his little cottage on a shutter, rolled up in a large sheet, and just as they came in sight of the Tamaki Church they met a native bringing the coffin, into which they put him - and the grave closed over the poor old man just as the sun sank below the horizon.

21. The first sod turned on my land today by Bridgford, who seemed if anything more pleased at beginning the fencing than I was at seeing it begun. He is enclosing a small flat below some high land on the beach, where I purpose building him a small cottage that he may be near at hand when we live on "The Hill", as perhaps we shall call our new abode.

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AN OLD NURSE

23. Betsy went to Auckland with our laundress, Mrs Robinson; they had intended to go by water and the boatman had assured them he would start punctually at 4 o'clock a. m. Just at breakfast time back came Betsy, saying the boatman had altered his mind and would not go, and that she and Mrs Robinson had been waiting for him on the sea shore ever since 4. They had therefore determined to walk, so she had some breakfast and then went to Mrs Robinson.

In the afternon I rode to Mr Maclean's 44 - Mrs Maclean told me, to my great surprise, that she had heard my servant girl was going to be married to Mr Trice, and she asked me whether such was the case. I told her it was the first I had heard of it. If, however, such should be the case, my little matrimonial scheme will succeed and right glad shall we be to get rid of her.

24. No news of Betsy - a most miserable wet day.

25. About 8 o'clock in the evening Betsy returned - thoroughly tired and frightfully dirty. She and Mrs Robinson had started at 12 o'clock so they had been eight hours on the road.

26. After service at Panmure rode on to St John's College and asked for a bed. The Archdeacon and Mrs Abraham received me most kindly. There are now there but Mr and Mrs Abraham, Mr and Mrs Nihill, the two Miss Hectors and an Old Nurse, so the place is empty enough. The Archdeacon complained of not being able to procure a servant - of having to chop up the fire wood - and showed me his fingers, bruised and hurt by his unhandy way of wielding the axe. He and Mrs Abraham roasted the bread for tea - Horatia brought in the tea things and removed them for Old Nurse considered herself too poorly to leave her room.

27. Up early and on my way to town ere the Archdeacon was stirring, so I didn't see him light the fire or Horatia sweep out the rooms.

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JUNE-AUGUST 1853

On returning home found that a woman at Howick had died last night from the effects of three stabs inflicted by her husband.

28. The coroner, Captain McDonald, returned a verdict which convicted the husband of murder and the wretched man, who in my opinion has not been sane for 6 weeks past, was marched off to jail in Auckland; the woman I buried this afternoon.

22 July. Today the old soldiers had to elect four representatives to the new Provincial Council; party spirit runs high and my Schoolmaster told me yesterday that he expected it would be a "wicked day" - adding many of the Irish are preparing thick sticks for the fight they are expecting.

As we were finishing dinner Mr Purchas came - Bridgford was off at the election and as my leg confined me to my chair my good friend had to stable his own horse, a sort of reception I didn't quite like to give him.

After his dinner he examined my leg and altered the dressing Blanche was applying and prescribed a course of medicine for me. All the afternoon he busied himself in tuning our piano - taking it entirely to pieces and dusting it thoroughly. I need hardly add the instrument is infinitely the better for the routing it has had.

1 August. Started after breakfast with Mr Hill in my cart for Auckland. Left Auckland with a loaded cart about 3 o'clock; this is the first time I have driven my own cart in the Town since I was stopt shortly after my first arrival in the Colony by an impudent man who said he didn't like to see a Missionary driving a cart. I am too well known now for any one to say a word to me about it: not but that I was stopt often enough.

First by a Howick girl returning home from Service with "Please Sir, do take my trunk home in your cart". Then the Postmaster - "Please Sir, will you take Panmure and Howick mail bags?" Then Dr Bacot: "Mr Lush, will you take some pictures to Howick for me?" Then a poor woman, "Do

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IMPUDENT SERVANTS

please, your Reverence, let me put my basket into your cart". And lastly a Pensioner on the road managed to wedge a can of oil in one corner; so my cart was in requisition more filled with other's goods than my own, for Mr Hill had a goodly lot, amongst other things a live pig tied up in a basket which kept up a continual squeaking as the cart bumped it about.

[An entry for 4 August is badly torn but reveals that Miss Hill, eldest daughter of Mr Hill, a lately-arrived settler, has started a private school with Blanney, Charlotte and Mary Lush, Alice and Flora McDonald and her own little sister, Georgina, as her first pupils.]

13. Children been regularly at school all the week; every wet day they go on the donkey and therefore they almost regret when it is a fine morning and the road dry: not so anyone else.

Taken every opportunity I could this week to plant trees on my land, amongst others a young Norfolk Island Pine, a most magnificent tree when arrived at maturity - and some Bamboo. Next week I hope to plant some 40 Blue Gum trees now about 18 inches high and some English Poplars and New Zealand Puriri. The Blue Gum trees I planted here, on the glebe, only 18 months ago are several of them near 30 feet high already - so astonishingly rapid is their growth, being single and not crowded together.

Mr and Mrs Mason called yesterday. The latter speaking to Blanche about servants, told her two incidents which will illustrate the independence and impudence of the colonial servants. A young lady was staying at their house and one evening read aloud to Mr and Mrs Mason some amusing book which caused them to laugh frequently, and once or twice rather loudly - and so interested were they in the book that instead of retiring to bed at their usual hour of 10 they prolonged their sitting to nearer 12. The next morning the servant came to Mrs Mason and said she could not think of remaining in such a riotous house where the Master and Mistress kept up till midnight and disturbed her rest by their

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AUGUST-SEPTEMBER 1853

laughter. She had been with them several weeks and this was the first time they had sat up beyond 10 o'clock.

Some time after this occurrence Mr Mason went to Auckland and remained in Town one night. The evening he was away Mrs Mason said to her servant: "I shall get up as early as usual tomorrow, so bring me hot water at 6 and get breakfast ready at 7", as they always have it. This was done: but Mrs Mason remained in her room putting it to rights, making her bed, &c., and it was near 8 before she came into the parlour to breakfast. Upon which the maid came in and in a passionate manner said she would leave immediately for she had no notion of [being] forced out of bed so early on false pretences - that if she got up early Mrs Mason should get up early, and not desire to be called at 6 and then not get up till near eight.

Mrs Mason explained that she did get up at 6, but had remained in her room doing what she usually did after breakfast, and told the servant to go and see that she might be convinced. But the maid would not go and see and would not be convinced, and for this imaginary wrong, of having been ordered up an hour or so before her Mistress, would leave.

21 September. Had to proceed to Auckland in obedience to a summons from the Bishop in order to attend a meeting at 10 o'clock tomorrow morning. Hearing that the punt had broken away and that there was no crossing the Tamaki but by swimming one's horse, I determined to walk - poor Jessie being too heavy in foal to run a risk with her. Met the Archdeacon close by St John's and right glad was I to accept his proffered hospitality and a shakedown for the night.

He told me the Bishop had proceeded to Otahuhu when they left Howick yesterday and that in taking a "short cut" they got into a swamp and the soft black mud rose over the horses' backs, making the riders a filthy mess. Fortunately soon after they had to ride through some water rather deeper than the swamp and so they were washed clean again and reached Otahuhu in tolerable condition. The object of their



[Unpaginated illustration]

"THE THREE GRACES"
From left: Mrs Selwyn, Lady Martin, Mrs Abraham.
Caroline Abraham, who titled the photograph, wrote on the back, "Do I not look as if I were hearing Lady M say her lessons?"

MRS WARRINGTON wife of Dr Augustus Warrington


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Barns and Ricks --- Mount Wellington --- Stables --- Holland's House, Weaver
Farm --- Well --- Mr Paris 's House --- Waiatarua Lake --- Hunter's House --- One Tree Hill --- Carpenter's Shop --- Mount Eden
(See journal entry for 8 August 1851)


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Taurarua Point --- Wash-house --- Hall --- Kitchen --- Weaving Room --- Rangitoto Isle
Printing Office -- Bishop's House -- English School -- Maori Adult School -- Surgery


St Thomas's Church, Tamaki --- College Chapel --- Maori Boys' School --- Primary School

A PANORAMA OF St JOHN'S COLLEGE by Caroline Abraham


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WILLIAM SWAINSON, ATTORNEY-GENERAL with (probably) Mrs Annie Rookes, wife of Colonel Rookes

Revd A. G. PURCHAS
priest and doctor to the parishes of Onehunga and Epsom

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A GOOD DUCKING

visit was to select a site for a Church, school and Parsonage, offered by Major Greenwood, 45 a large landed proprietor there.

23. Had a long walk with a Mr Hansard, land agent, to look at some properties for sale: one of 14 acres with house on the Epsom road for £500 - another of 5 acres with house for £550 on the Grafton Road, the aristocratical quarter, and the third a small lot 20 feet wide and 100 deep, in the heart of the city for £400, being 20 &c. a foot. This was for the bare site - indeed it would require a £150 to be expended upon it before a store or wharehouse [sic] could be erected on it. Such is the value of land about Auckland and in the city: the two suburban properties will produce a rental of £40 and £50 a year and perhaps much more a very few years hence - the city lot would probably produce a ground rent of £50 at once.

5 October. Blanche busy brewing: when the large tub was almost full of warm liquor Allie must needs go peeping over and suddenly lost his balance and went plump, head foremost, into the beer. Fortunately Betsy was close at hand and he was out again in an instant but got a good ducking and a terrible fright. How thankful we should be that the beer was not scalding hot!

13. Quite knocked up with the Influenza.

24 November. After a long silence I make the attempt to resume my diary, not because I have anything worth writing about to mention but because I fear my friends may deem me unmindful of their oft-expressed wishes if I wholly neglect keeping a journal. Several things have occurred since I last wrote which had I recorded at the time might have amused or pleased my dear sisters - and a few which would not have done so - e. g. my interview with the Bishop and his refusing to let me build on my own land - or rather to leave the Parsonage to live in my own house if I did build.

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NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 1853

This has been a disappointment to us both, but may ultimately be productive of this great good - that by having a longer time before us we may ultimately build a better and more lasting house than we could raise just now.

In the evening all of us, including Betsy, went down to the beach to inspect the Cottage now in course of being built on a corner of my farm for Bridgford and his family. As a matter of course we all pronounced it very pretty.

26. Mr Mason brought over his two plough horses which I had promised to purchase. The price is frightfully high, £60 each: but when they have done my ploughing and so saved me some £150 I shall sell them again. Blanney and Charlotte had determined that their names should be Alice and Kate or some fine names, and it was with a look almost of disgust that little Blanney learnt that their names were Rat and Cob.

28. Sent Bridgford on Rat to town to get her shod: came back in the evening tipsy - as he has done every time I have sent him with my horse to town. Think I shall dismiss him.

10 December. My good mare Jessie had her foal today. There was a deal of talk among the young folk as to what the colt's name should be - one wanted "Captain" and then "Major", but Charlie at last decided he should be called "Colonel". Charlotte with her usual quickness suggested that the colt had much better be called "Marshal Ney".

13. Fear I am going to suffer from what so many new arrivals have to endure, but which heretofore I have escaped - a boil. So common is it for new arrivals to have these plaguey things break out upon them, that when asking how so and so does, the frequent answer is "Oh, boiling".

Xtmas Day. A hot sultry morning. Up at 5, finished my sermon. Went over to the Church to decorate it with sprigs of Ngaios and flowers. Wound some wreaths round the chancel pillars - the effect was very pretty. Returned to breakfast at 8: fried captain's biscuit and very good it is - the biscuit

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BEWILDERING CONFUSION

is soaked in water overnight and then fried in a little butter the next morning.

Church very full indeed: three christenings so today I used the font and the Communion plate and I need not say that my thoughts travelled to our dear friends at the Antipodes. For dinner we had two legs of lamb both cold - one roast, the other boiled: green peas and new potatoes and one of Lady Taunton's famous plum puddings. Betsy had young Broomfield to dinner, so I suspect that next Xtmastide will find her Mrs Broomfield.

The afternoon turned out wet and the evening most boisterous, so that I had but 3 women at Church for the Evening Service: after which, changed my clothes in order to go into my farmyard to milk the cow and feed the cattle, for Bridgford had left word that he hoped "master would attend to the yard" as he "had some friends at his house and they did not like him to leave them"!

28. The public dinner for Sir George Grey on Monday last was well attended. The Bishop was present and made the speech of the evening: the dinner itself was miserable and the saying it: "The dinner was worth sixpence and the Bishop's speech, twenty-four and sixpence". The ticket for admission was £1. 5. 0.

31. Off at 6 o'clock for Auckland to see the Governor and Bishop. No one at the College but the Bailiffe, Mr Hunter, so had some breakfast with his family. Overtook Captain Haultain going to town on a similar errand; we were in time to attend the Governor's undress levee when we had the honour of shaking hands with his Excellency and wishing him a prosperous voyage. The levee was crowded and the Governor seemed much affected.

From the "Council Chamber" we, i.e. the Clergy, went to the pier and hired a boat to take us to the Commodore to bid farewell to our Bishop. They were in a state of bewildering confusion on board, but his Lordship seemed pleased with our coming. Poor Johnny 46 was quite upset and I hear has

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DECEMBER 1853

been very unhappy for some time past at the thought of leaving his native country, New Zealand. We had not been on board a quarter of an hour when a loud voice cried out, "All strangers must leave the vessel. The Governor is coming." So we hurried down to our boat and lay off at a little distance to see his Excellency arrive. The salute from the Battery told us he was no longer on shore and in a short time his boat, manned by four rowers, rounded the stern of the vessel and ran along the side of the vessel where we were. The scene was very animated for his boat had been followed by a multitude of others and they all gathered round the vessel; amongst them was a very large war canoe containing some 50 natives.

The Bishop was standing at the top of the ladder to receive the Governor and Lady Grey and continued there for some time. So the native Chief took the opportunity of standing up in his canoe and addressing his Lordship in a very animated speech, at the close of which the whole number started on their legs and gave him three hearty cheers - which done, they sat down and shot off at an astonishing rate, the whole paddling away with all their might and in most exact time.

When all who were going were at length on board and when all who had to remain had at last left the vessel, she slowly weighed anchor and opening her sails to the breeze began to move on towards the open ocean - ours was the last boat lingering about and the waterman pulled in towards the side where stood the Governor, Lady Grey and the Bishop, and once more and for the last time we waved hats to one another and wished them all farewell.

When we had nearly reached shore we perceived a boat with four rowers pushing off from the pier and pulling desperately hard for the vessel - now some four miles off. There was a young man sitting in the stern of the boat and we concluded - and concluded rightly - that it was the Honourable Mr Portman who, because he had nothing to do, was too busy to be in time to get on board when those men of business and toil, the Bishop and the Governor, went off to the vessel. We watched his progress and it would have been a

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NOTICE TO QUIT

question whether he had ever gained the vessel had not the Captain perceived him, and lay to till his boat ran alongside.

2 January 1854. A great moving today in the village. Mr and Mrs Hill and family go to Mr Mason's farm at the Tamaki Heads. Mr and Mrs Mason come to Captain McDonald's cottage, which the Captain and his wife leave for their large house, vacated by the Hills. Mr Hill gives Mr Mason 300 a year for his farm of 320 acres. There is not more than a third of it as yet reclaimed from the bush, but then he has the horses (2), Oxen (4), Cows (15), sheep (250), goats (15), fowls (200), carts, ploughs, harrow, &c., for his use - being bound to leave the same number of cattle, &c., on the farm when he leaves it, i.e. (so report says) at the end of 5 years. Mr Mason gives the Captain £50 a year for his cottage and 5 acres; what extravagant rates of payment: it makes me wish to build a house on my own farm, that I too might have a tenant at a good price. The Captain's cottage cost him 200 £.

Bridgford gave me notice to quit: he says he cannot live on 15/0 a week - he has 1/0 a day pension besides - and that he must seek another master who will pay him higher wages. I forthwith engaged a man of the name of Cherry at 15/0 a week. I think before this year is out Bridgford will regret the step he has taken: our Harvest just now (January) unsettles most of the men in regular places, the pay for Harvest work is so high - 7/6 and 5/0 a day or £1. 0. 0 an acre for reaping by the piece. But I fear Bridgford and such as he forget the wet weeks after weeks in June and July when but few men can get a day's work in the fields. "Bridgford's Cottage", as my cottage on the Beach is universally called, will now never be occupied by Bridgford and his very extravagant and ill managing wife.

14. Let my cottage to John Sutcliffe at 3/0 a week, a fair interest on my outlay, viz. £50 or so.

18. Mr Mason walked over my farm with me today and pronounced a very favourable opinion as to the Quality of

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JANUARY-FEBRUARY 1854

the soil - for situation it is as good as any in the hundred of Howick and in the possession of springs and streams unsurpassed by any on this side of the Tamaki.

22. The Archdeacon spent the day with us. The two younger Wilsons dined with us so we mustered a large party at dinner. Betsy was particularly troublesome.

23. A gay marriage at Church this morning - Miss Lewis to a Mr Ewen. Poor girl, I have misgivings about her - her two elder sisters have both died shortly after marriage, from consumption.

Betsy was so ill behaved that I again urged her return to England, offering to pay her passage.

4 February. Went off early this morning with Mr Mason to meet the Surveyor, by appointment, on my block of 520 acres to see the boundaries thereof and - as it were - to take possession of my purchase. I found it no short walk and when we at last reached my "farm" three sides of it passed through a dense forest and the labour of struggling along up and down deep gullies and pushing through underwood was very great. Here and there, at every 10 chains we came to the Surveyor's marks - stakes with a piece of white rag on the top driven into the ground, and throughout all the intermediate spaces we traced notches cut in the sides of the adjoining trees, for we were obliged to trace the boundaries with the aid of our map, by ourselves, the Surveyor not having made his appearance.

During the latter part of our toilsome journey Blackburn, the Surveyor, overtook us. Upon my complaining of hunger, Mr Mason, who has been twenty years in the country and accustomed to bush travelling, borrowed a knife of the Surveyor and said he would soon get me some luncheon. Looking about we speedily spied out a young Nikau, the native palm tree, and cutting off the upper end he cut out the inside and divided it between us three. It tasted like sweet turnip and was eaten with great relish by my companions but I can't

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ALL OF A FLUTTER

say I thought it a satisfactory substitute for what I was craving after. However, everything has an end and so had my long fast, for about four o'clock we came to Hill's the Bushman's cottage, and I persuaded the good woman to give us a liberal supply of bread and butter and tea. Thus refreshed we started homewards - we had to wade through the Mungamungaroa Creek and I reached Howick jaded, tired and wet.

5. While [I was] sitting in my Sunday school previous to morning service, Betsy came running over and put a letter into my hands - a letter which I saw at once was from Alfred and which informed me in a few words that the bearer, a Mr Munday, had been Archdeacon Berens' schoolmaster, and hoped he would suit me. This put me all of a flutter and going home I found Mr and Mrs Munday with two little boys sitting in my drawing-room, chatting to Blanche.

They had come in the Northfleet and had been to Canterbury and Wellington and had had a most delightful voyage - till just latterly. Off the East Cape they lost their youngest child - the Captain allowed them to keep the body till they reached Auckland; the funeral took place on Thursday. On Friday they were occupied in getting their luggage out of the vessel and on Saturday they left Auckland for Howick at ii o'clock a. m. in a small boat of about 4 tons, with 15 other passengers bound to this settlement.

They were told it would be but a pleasant sail of 1 1/2 hours or so - so they came off therefore with nothing save a small basket of clothes - and there was no food and no water on board. Soon after they got out of Auckland harbour the wind freshened and the sea became very rough and the Mundays very ill. The boat beat about all the afternoon and towards evening ran fast upon the sandspit off the mouth of the Mungamungaroa Creek where they remained all night till 7 o'clock this morning; poor Mrs Munday (who is near her confinement) suffering severely from being stived up in such a miserable little cabin with 15 other souls - all half famished

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FEBRUARY 1854

through want of food and water, and more or less ill from the unpleasant rocking of the boat on the sand.

They said that about 1/2 past 6, just before it got dusk, they saw two men cross the Creek and come first towards their boat, but suddenly turn back and disappear under the cliffs - that they all shouted and hoisted flags and did all they could to attract the attention of these two men, but without success and Mrs Munday told me her heart quite fainted within her when she saw them suddenly turn away and disappear.

I told her I could answer for it that the two men in question never saw their signals nor heard their shouts, for that the two were myself and Mr Mason. We had noticed the boat and remarked how foolish or tipsy the man must have been to run aground. The wind was blowing hard at the time and it was beginning to rain so I suppose the voices of the two combined drowned the noise from the boat. We kept the Mundays at our house for their meals and here they must sleep for tonight.

6. Agreed with Mr Munday to take my school. I guarantee to him £50 a year in addition to whatever he may get from the children - some 60 at /3d each a week. I am to turn the schoolhouse into a Master's residence and fence off about 1 acre of the glebe land for his use as a garden, &c. I must therefore at present keep school in the nave of the Church. I also promise him the run of my fields whenever he sees fit to keep a cow: he and his wife seem well satisfied with the arrangement.

10. The securing of Munday's services for the School has given great satisfaction to the people here - he was offered two situations before he left Town to come and see me - in fact before he landed he might have engaged himself had he seen fit, for Mr Lloyd and Mr Purchas directly they heard there was a Schoolmaster on board, tried to secure his services.

12. Had to resume my afternoon service at Panmure - thence went to St John's College. Surprised at finding a slight increase to that for some time most desolate place - viz. four

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GAINING GOLDEN OPINIONS

pupils, the beginning of the College after the English model. We seem at the Antipodes to go upon the opposite track to what people take in England. In England people cry out against Schools for merely classics and require something more utilitarian - here the Bishop offers the people an industrial school and the people call for a classical one, after the model of Eton.

16. Went to Auckland to attend a rather important meeting which the Archdeacon had summoned, to see whether we could raise some, £400 a year for three years to pay for a duly qualified clergyman from England to conduct a Church of England Grammar School in the close neighbourhood of Auckland. The meeting was tolerably well attended by Papas who had little boys at home and I think there is a prospect of success. We settled to write to the Bishop and request him in conjunction with the Revd Mr Venn and Revd Mr Hawkins, secretaries of C. M. S, and S. P. G. - to select a master for us, promising to guarantee him at the least £300 a year for the first three years; the other £100 a year we want to raise is to pay the interest on the money we must borrow to build the Schoolroom.

17. Found my new Schoolmaster was already gaining golden opinions about his method of teaching and managing the school, from all the parents of the children attending. I only hope he may be content to remain at Howick and not be tempted by the prospect of higher pay than we can afford, to go elsewhere.



At this point in the journals there is a gap longer than a year, so no more is heard of Mr Munday.

Later in 1854 an epidemic of scarlet fever swept through the Howick settlement and scarcely a family escaped the infection. The Lush children at the Parsonage all had it; their mother, still weak after the birth of her sixth child, left her bed to nurse her critically ill family.

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MARCH 1855

In the Howick churchyard of All Saints, the stone nearest the door of the church commemorates the three children of the Vicar who died within a few days of one another - clever dark-haired Charlotte, ten years old; blue-eyed Mary, who was seven; and their two-year-old brother, Alfred. The two eldest children, Blanche and Charles, survived and the new baby, Martin, escaped the infection.

The journals recording this tragic time were sent to England but were lost at sea on their return journey to New Zealand. Those who read them with tears on the other side of the world believed that it was better so.



28 March 1855. Last Thursday Blannie went on a visit to Mrs Abraham at St John's College. She rode on her own white pony and Turner, our man, walked by her side carrying her carpet bag. She took with her the work box the Misses Cleaver gave her on leaving England and carried other things, kind presents given by dear but distant friends and altogether our dear and only daughter went out on her first visit as well appoined as she could have been in England itself. In the evening Turner returned and said that "little Miss" desired him to assure us that she had a delightful ride and had reached the College without any headache.

On Friday evening, rather late, who should come to our Cottage door but Mr Purchas. He has taken quite a leading part in an agitation that is now taking place here to introduce the "Maine Liquor Law" which prohibits the sale of all intoxicating drinks. He had come to canvass Howick for signatures to a Petition to the Provincial Council and asked me to exchange duties with him on Sunday in order to let him have the whole of Saturday and Monday to go about the Settlement.

He had tea in the Cottage, the site of which he much admired: about 10 o'clock I took him up to the Parsonage where he and I made a bed and I left him in the house alone. He was with us again by breakfast time on Saturday and said

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A TEMPERANCE PETITION

he slept uncommonly well; he caught us on Saturday morning in the midst of removing our furniture and chattels for we had suddenly determined to leave the beach and go back to the Parsonage where before 12 o'clock we and our goods were safely installed.

After an early dinner I left on Rollo for Onehunga, and went to Major Kenny's. Here I slept. I proposed starting on Rollo for Otahuhu when I found my poor pony had had no water since he arrived yesterday - they had, literally, none to spare for him. Our summer has been so hot and dry that in the scoria districts like Onehunga water is exceeding scarce and the Kennys have a difficulty in getting sufficient for their own personal wants.

On my way to Otahuhu Rollo all at once pricked up his ears, held up his head and broke off into a sharp trot. "Water ahead", thought I, and so there was, about 4 a mile further on, and a long deep hearty drink had my thirsty beast. Thus refreshed my little nag carried me more cheerfully to Otahuhu where I "put up" at the village store: and offering my arm to Mrs Hall, the Mother and Grandmother of half the Halls in the parish, thus walked to Church.

On Monday Mr Purchas went out immediately after breakfast and did not return till bed time - the whole day canvassing the parish. Yesterday Mr Purchas left us: he had hired one of the Howick girls about 10 years of age to be nurse-girl to his children; the difficulty of getting the girl and her baggage hence to Onehunga was overcome by Mr Purchas taking the lass up on his horse behind him and placing the bulky bundle on his saddle before him - and thus encumbered he sallied forth from our gate on his homeward journey. I hope they reached home safely; he had obtained 200 signatures from the Howick villagers for his Temperance Petition.

31. Betsy's birthday - she completed her 20th year. Blanche wishing to see Blannie went today in a cart to St John's College: Martin of course accompanied his Mamma, who also took Betsy to her great delight. After tea I put Charlie to bed

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MARCH-MAY 1855

and had just finished reading some Scripture to him when I heard Merrill's cart and Mamma, Baby and Betsy returned home, having had a fine and very pleasant ride. Blanche had called on the Haultains on their way through Panmure and there she was refreshed with a cup of good strong coffee - the nicest thing, she said, she had all the time she was away from home - for the mutton at the College was (as usual) so very high she could not eat it.

1 April. Church very crowded in the morning and well attended in the evening. Mrs Martin 47 (not the Judge's wife) and two of her girls came to the morning service and called upon us after Church. Her husband is one of our most respectable settlers in the vicinity of Howick, but from the long distance they live from the Church, this is the first time during the last four years any of them have attended the Church. They brought out a Governess who, I believe, has been like our Betsy to us, only to a worse degree - more plague than profit.

18 May. I reached the College in time for tea and passed a pleasant evening with Mr and Mrs Abraham and Mr Purchas. I did not see Blannie; she had remained all day at Mrs Augustus Abraham's with her friend Mary.

19. Went to morning Chapel - Blannie and Mary there too. The chaunting as usual quite a treat. Breakfasted in Hall - at the table opposite me sat Rota, who was ordained Deacon by the Bishop some 18 months ago. He has been far up in the interior ministering to the Natives and, to use his own figurative language, having "sown his bag of seed" has come to the College "that he may get it filled again".

29. Mamma made us laugh by telling us of a scene at Mr and Mrs White's dinner table the day after their marriage. They were without a servant for the two-fold reason that they could not afford to keep one and could not have got one if they could have afforded such a luxury. So Mrs White, the young Bride, made a savoury dish of stewed meat such as her

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A DOMESTIC FRACAS

lord and master loved and with her own fair hands placed it in due time upon the table.

Now you must know that they were living in a Raupo cottage, and Raupo cottages always swarm with the Kekeriru, a large black wood bug, larger than the English black beetle and which when crushed emits a most horrible stench. The stewed meat had been placed before the fire to keep warm while the table cloth was spread, &c., &c., and during that brief time no less than three of these disgusting insects - attracted perhaps by the pleasant fumes of the smoking dish below - tumbled from the ceiling into the soup, where they lay immersed among the choicest pieces of the stewed meat.

The bride and bridegroom sit down at the table: the bride helps her loving swain to all these choice pieces and, as she hands him his plate, expresses a hope he may enjoy the first dinner he has sat down to prepared by herself. Imagine the warm assurances of satisfaction expressed by the delighted husband - he takes a spoonful and declares it excellent - another - starts - turns pale, then red - runs to the window and throws something out. Her returns to his seat, discomposed but not so much as is Mrs White.

"My dear," she says nervously, "what is the matter?"

"Oh - nothing, my dear." But his looks belie his words. He takes another spoonful - another rush to the window. Poor Mrs White - her husband returns looking queer and tries one more spoonful. Then down goes the spoon with a crash and a very rough word and he exclaims, "Really, my love, this won't do - this is the third of those horrid bugs I have taken up in the soup - this really won't do."

Scribbler knoweth not how the dinner ended but imagineth all was smooth again between the two before long. But we must all agree it was an untoward beginning of a Honeymoon - anything but Honey those nasty Kekeriru. Miss Hill told Blanche about this pretty little domestic fracas one wet day as the ladies were sitting, working and chatting together.

12. June. Wishing that Blannie should have another music and singing lesson, we determined she should accompany me

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JUNE 1855

as far as the College, on my way to Town, whither I was bound in order to look after a cask (not wine or spirits, but apparel) which had just arrived by the Rock City. It was nearly dark when we reacht the College: the Archdeacon and Mrs Abraham received Blannie most kindly. I found that the Archdeacon had given up his school again - he finds the fatigue and confinement too much, now that he has no assistant.

Pursued my journey to Auckland in the dark. Put up Rollo at the Windsor Castle (there is a very decent sign board swinging in front of the Inn with two views of the Royal Residence, one on each side), and then went on to Mr Smith's. I must candidly confess my preference of his abode to that of Mr Lloyd's or Thatcher's was "beer versus water": or a temperate man's house rather than those of Teetotallers - nor was I mistaken, for a leg of cold mutton, a loaf of bread and a small jug of beer were soon placed before me by my kind friends and I soon refreshed and strengthened the outer man.

Mr and Mrs Mason were spending the evening here. They went to the next door neighbour's to sleep - Mrs Churton's - having been turned out of their lodging opposite in consequence of their Landlady having a dance in her house, in honour of a marriage that had taken place this morning. We could occasionally hear the Piano and from the front door see the figures of the dancers as they whirled past on the light fantastic toe. Towards morning woke up and heard the Piano still going with unabated zeal. When I woke again it was daylight and at last the Piano was at rest - and the dancers too, I hope.

13. Mr Mason joined us at Breakfast. Thence went to "Squire Blackett's" to beg for a few trees, but found him very stingy. He lamented that the Archdeacon had given up the College: and said, what is true enough, that now there was no school for the youths of the place but the Wesleyan school.

Dined at the Thatchers' - a nice dinner, saving the glass of cold water - which I don't at all relish. Talking of the Archdeacon and his late school, Mr Thatcher told me that

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BLACKGUARD TO GENTLEMAN

a little time ago a Mr Buckland (a large farmer at Papakura - he came originally from the West of England), who had several sons, called at the College and asked the Archdeacon to take his eldest boy. "For," said he, "I see the good you have done to young Ligar - that boy, Sir, a year ago was a young blackguard, and you have made him a gentleman."

17. Our home made bread having been hot last evening we sent Sarah to the three bakers' shops in the village for a couple of loaves. She returned saying there was no bread in the place - but that one of the shops expected a supply by this morning. What a queer state of things - no meat at the butcher's - no bread at the baker's - it is a good thing for us we are very seldom dependent on one or the other; we make our own bread, kill our own meat, churn our butter and brew our own beer. I hope next year we shall again as we did this last summer, grow our own wheat and raise our own potatoes.

18. Mrs White and her sister, Georgie Hill, called to tell us that Mr White has received a letter from his father in Ireland informing him that he had purchased for him a Commission in the Militia, and that therefore he and she were going away immediately. She is delighted. Her sister, Maria Hill, is quite upset at the prospect of losing her sister - she says now with more vehemence than she ever did, "This horrid place!" She is certainly somewhat to be pitied; she was taken away from a first rate Boarding School to accompany her parents out here, and now instead of Reading - Music work, or Drawing - she has nothing but butter making - cheese making - feeding chickens - cooking and ironing for the family.

27. Spent the afternoon planting 42 trees on my farm - on returning home greeted with the very agreeable intelligence that the Cask had arrived: so after an early and hasty tea we began to open it - and here I would note that the contents thereof were more easily arrived at than when encased in a case, so Charles was speedily very busy carrying the several packages to our dining-room table, where we undid them. All the shoes and boots for my dear dear Charlotte

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JUNE-JULY 1855

and Mary were hurried away into Mamma's bed-room, for we did not wish to damp poor Charlie's pleasure by making him remember what for the moment he seemed to have forgotten. I shall not soon forget his ecstasy at seeing his boat; and when the one that had been bought for my ever to be lamented Alfred was unpacked, he said, "How good of Aunt - that is one for little Martin." He evidently had forgotten poor Allie, nor did we remind him. But Mamma took it away, more to hide her own tears than to take care of Martin's boat.

29. Blannie and I rode after dinner to call upon Mrs Kells, a Bride just come home from Onehunga where she used to reside and where Mr Purchas married her to Mr Kells. Blannie represented her Mamma as she will often have to do as Blanche has a dislike for horse-back and there is hardly any other way of getting about the country.

8 July. Last Thursday the Duke of Portland came into Harbour bringing the Bishop, Mrs Selwyn, two clergymen and one candidate for orders. Mr Hill also received his son by this ship: so Mrs White will have the pleasure of once more seeing her eldest brother. Mrs White told us that Mrs Selwyn was a great invalid throughout the voyage, seldom leaving her cabin.

9. Started on Rollo for Auckland to pay my respects to the Bishop. On nearing St John's College met the Miss Abrahams who informed me that no one was at the College, the Bishop not having as yet come out, and the Archdeacon having gone in. I finished my journey at the Windsor Castle without further ado.

Thence walked to the Judge's - as I neared the garden fence saw the Archdeacon near the beach, who seeing me "coo-eed": so I hastened on to him and had the mortification of learning that I had just missed seeing his Lordship - he had two minutes before pushed off in a boat for the Duke of Portland, and I caught a glimpse of his back. I returned with the Archdeacon to the Judge's house, where I saw Mrs



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HALL'S STORE AT OTAHUHU in the 1860s

EWELME COTTAGE, 1864 situated in Grammar School Road, Hobson's Bay, now Ayr Street, Parnell


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A PAGE FROM THE JOURNALS OF VICESIMUS LUSH, 24 November 1853 The drawings show the cottage he built at Cockle Bay


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MISSION STATION AT TAUPIRI, WAIKATO, 1854 Girls' school on left; next to it is the Revd Mr Ashwell's mission house

THE "NATIVE TEACHER AT TAUPIRI the Revd Heta Tarawhiti

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A SAIL TO TOWN

Martin, Mrs Selwyn, Mrs Abraham and Mr Purchas. Mrs Selwyn is looking miserably ill, so very thin. Mrs Martin asked Blannie for the 20th inst. to spend a few days with her.

20. The Wonga Wonga steamed into our Bay at an early hour causing Blannie to dress faster than usual, for she was anticipating a sail to Town instead of a ride. After a very hasty breakfast she and Turner started: Charlie and I accompanied her to the pier to see her safe on board. Turner returned about 8 o'clock this evening and relieved us of a little anxiety we felt, by assuring us he had seen her safe to Mrs Martin's, but that it was very late before the steamer reached Auckland in consequence of an accident which befell a large canoe with 5 natives in it which left Howick together with the steamer and had been taken in tow by the Wonga Wonga. As they were crossing the mouth of the Waitemata a cutter, trying to cross the path of the Wonga Wonga astern, ran right into the canoe and cut it in half, tossing the poor natives in the water - fortunately they were all rescued, 3 by the Wonga Wonga and 2 by the cutter.

27. Went to Auckland to see Blannie - as I walked up the Judge's garden towards his house met Blannie in charge of a little girl about 2 years old. I asked who her little companion might be and was surprised to find she was Lizzie Nihill, the only surviving child of "that frail young man" as the Bishop called Mr Nihill in one of his sermons. It seems that Mrs Nihill and this little child had just arrived from Nengone, where she had buried her husband and one baby several months before she could find an opportunity of returning to New Zealand. This little child, Lizzie, talks a little Nengone - a little Maori - a little Lifu - and a little English, and so is called the Polyglot Baby. I suggested to Mrs Selwyn that were she but old enough she would make a valuable wife to any Melanesian Missionary. 48

28. The Archdeacon came to dinner on his way to Mr Lusk's new farm, Woodlands, up Turanga Creek: he proposes holding service in the Lusks' house tomorrow for the settlers on

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JULY-AUGUST 1855

the Turanga Creek and Mr Lusk is to continue it every Sunday. Hugh Lusk came in the afternoon with a boat so Charlie and I walked down to the beach with Mr Abraham and Hugh to see them off.

31. My new schoolmaster, Mr Watts, entered upon the duties of his office today to my great relief: he takes the school in the morning and his daughter in the afternoon - for their services they are to have £50 a year and the school pence, /3d from each child. By engaging him I reduce my salary to £20 a year! So Goldsmith's lines: "A man he was to all the country dear --And passing rich with £40 a year" would in no wise now apply to me - not being either dear to all the country nor as having the fat salary of £40 a year.

In the afternoon Blanche went to Mr Watts' house to go with his daughter to the school. The family being all new to her (they have but latterly come to Howick), she asked the names of the children, so Mrs Watts began: "This is Matilda - this is Georgie - this is Patra." "Patra - pray what is that?" asked Blanche. "Why, Patra, ma'am," repeated Mrs Watts. Blanche looked unsatisfied with the explanation so Mr Watts stepped forward and said in a very grave manner: "You see, ma'am, we wanted to give our girl a Grecian name, so we called her Cleopatra, which we shorten to Patra." "Oh!" exclaimed Blanche, ready to laugh at the idea of Cleopatra in a sun bonnet and mounted on high wooden clogs.

2 August. The Bishop and the Archdeacon started last evening for Taranaki, overland, in order to arrest if possible a very serious quarrel between two native tribes.

7. Betsy started on foot with Sarah Trimmer for Auckland to attend the Fancy Bazaar! So we may expect her to come back an invalid, but she was bent on going and, the wind being very high, the sea was too rough for Trimmer's boat to venture out or she would have gone in her and there was, it seems, no hiring of a cart. The walk of 15 miles is too long for a delicate girl like Betsy.

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CROWDED TO SUFFOCATION

Since the 15th of May I have planted 480 trees on my farm - almost all these trees were planted by myself at odd times: early in the morning or in the evening.

8. Met a young man who told me he had just returned from Auckland - he had met Betsy and Sarah yesterday, dreadfully tired with their walk into Town. The Bazaar, he told me, was crowded to suffocation, so that although he went in he could not see anything and came out without buying a single article. I asked him where Betsy and Sarah were "putting up" - he told me he thought at Major Nugent's. I believe Sarah Trimmer was once servant there. I felt glad she was not at a Public house! Blanche and I agree that our home would be much more comfortable if Betsy took it into her head to keep away altogether: we have done better these two days without her than we do when she is present: before she left Howick she told us that Mrs Trimmer was going to town with them and as she is a respectable woman we felt no objection to letting her have a holiday for two or three days. Some hours after they were gone I found that Mrs Trimmer was at home at Howick and her daughter and Betsy had gone by themselves.

11. Saturday evening, 1 o o'clock. Betsy not back yet.

12. Last night about 1/2 past 12 Charlie woke me up by calling out, "Papa, some one is knocking!" I listened intently and directly after heard Betsy call out, "Will you let me in, please." I did so, but was not pleased to receive her at so late an hour, but said not a word to her then.

This morning she explained her conduct - had walked to town and when she and Sarah Trimmer went to the house where Sarah's father assured them he had secured a bed-room for them, found the house full and no room left for them. They then walked about till 8 o'clock in the evening, searching for a lodging, but found every house full to crowding; at that time they met a Mrs Coffee, servant to Mrs Nugent, who offered them to share her room, an offer they gladly accepted.

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AUGUST-SEPTEMBER 1855

14. Showed the household the Phantasmagoria. This is the third time I have tried it - the first time I utterly failed; the second time we got but an imperfect disk, but this evening I succeeded admirably. Mary Abraham, Blannie and Charlie were delighted and so I was happy in showing it, but I cannot help thinking most painfully of the others, Charlotte in particular - the expected Magic Lantern forming so often the topic of her pleasing anticipations. Poor child, New Zealand has not been the same to me since her death.

21. Went on Rollo to Penrose, the Macleans' farm - thence on to Onehunga. It was evening ere I reached town: went straight to Mr Gundry's where, as I expected, I was pressed to have tea and take a bed. Astonished a tin of sardines by demolishing nearly all its contents; so what with eggs and some cold bacon I fared sumptuously. It seemed very queer to know that the tall Maori woman who was standing near, replenishing my cup with coffee, handing me the salt, butter, &c., was really Mrs Gundry. I have never seen her sit down at the same table with her husband: he and I sat together and she acted as our waitress. It must be an uncomfortable life, but every man to his taste. One consolation he has is in remarkably fine children - and they are very happy in their way, and very much attacht.

22. After breakfast walked with Mr Gundry to some land he has lately purchased and enclosed, and has already vastly improved, and where he purposes building his country house.

9 September. The new Governor-General, Colonel Gore Browne, arrived last week in the Merchantman, the Captain of which is a Mr Brown. The Superintendent of New Plymouth is a Mr Brown - and there is Archdeacon Brown! 49

14. Went to Town to call upon the new Governor. They are occupying a house lately occupied by Captain and Mrs Travers. Till Government House is finished he has taken a Colonel Hulme's house, for which he has to pay£400 a year!

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GRUNTS & GESTICULATIONS

Six years ago Colonel Hulme bought this house from the Bishop for £600! I saw Mrs Browne but the Governor was at his office. It has caused no little amusement to the people of Auckland to find out that Mrs Browne's maiden name was Campbell, the very name (though there is no relationship) of Mr Brown's partner in business, so we say there are two firms of "Brown & Campbell" in Authority over us now, that of his Honour the Superintendent and that of his Excellency the Governor.

20. Heard that further North in the Bay of Islands Pheasants are encreasing rapidly and that the English Thrush and Blackbird have been successfully introduced on an estate not far from Auckland: this is progress indeed.

22. I went to town round by Otahuhu thus avoiding the Ferry across the Tamaki, but that route is too long and round about to be usually taken. Went to Mr Thatcher's to ask for a bed but they expected Mr Carter, so I stept down to Mr Gundry's to secure a lodging there. Margaret was alone at home: and I had some difficulty in explaining what I wanted and wished Mrs Gundry had been European instead of Maori. I returned to Mr Thatcher's for tea and met Mr Carter - a very pleasant man - delighted with New Zealand. Went over to Mr Gundry's and to my relief found him at home and expecting me and my bed already made up on the Parlour sofa - so "Margarita" had really understood me though my remarks had to be conveyed in sundry grunts and gesticulations.

23. Went to St Paul's Church shortly before 11 o'clock. There was a tolerable muster of Clergy - the Bishop - Archdeacon - Mr Lloyd - Thatcher - Kissling - Purchas - St Hill - Carter and Patteson - and Rota, the native deacon, now come to witness the admittance to the Order of deacons of another native, Levi 50 by name. This addition to the Native Ministry is a fine, tall and highly intelligent man, and being by birth a Rangatira (a Chief) he has far, far more influence

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SEPTEMBER-NOVEMBER 1855

among his countrymen than Rota has, who formerly was but a slave. Levi, as the Bishop informed us in his sermon, was the very first of all his tribe who embraced Christianity and has now amid many trials acted the part of a Catechist with great perseverance and success for the last 15 years.

5 November. Betsy left us for a week's visit to her lately married friend, Elizabeth Crawshaw, whose brother John Lynch is decidedly "making up" to Betsy. He is an intelligent, industrious and steady boy - but barely 19 whereas she is going on for 21 - but she smiles upon him.

10. Took a Bible, price 7/6, to a Parishioner who had requested me to procure him one. He was satisfied with the one I had chosen and thought it cheap, so I asked him for the money when he assured me he could not spare any part yet, they were so badly off. I looked round the room and certainly there was every appearance of poverty. The children were ragged, unwashed and uncombed, and the man was untidy. "Badly off indeed," said I. "Why, how much do you get per day?" "Oh - five shillings." "And your eldest son - what does he get?" "Why, he gets 9/0 a day." "Nine shillings a day and you get 5/0 a day and yet tell me you can't pay for this Bible." "Can't, Sir, and that's a fact; I owe so much at the Shop." And, I was nearly adding, "spend so much at the Public House". The high wages evidently do not benefit the bad managers, the careless, and they who make a god of their belly.

11. After the afternoon service I started on Rollo for Auckland. The men at the Ferry startled me by saying I was going to lose my servant Betsy, for that she was going to marry George Glue of Panmure.

As she had been away now a whole week and I knew not who had been to see her, or where she had been visiting, I could not dispute their word, so I thought I would jog on round by St John's to take the chance of seeing Betsy and find out if I could. Mrs Crawshaw's cottage is the first of the College buildings on the Panmure Road so I pulled up,

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A DECIDED CASE

and seeing Crawshaw called to him and told him to tell Betsy I wished to see her. First George Glue came out of the door to look at me and went in again. Then I saw John Lynch take a peep at me - and then came Betsy. As she had a long path to walk over to where I was standing, I was quite concerned to see how very ill she looked. She seemed very pleased to see me and when I told her I should call for her tomorrow on my return from town, so that she might ride Rollo instead of having to walk so far, she was quite grateful - for she told me she felt very ill and was suffering from a violent headache. Leaving my nag at the Windsor Castle I went to Mr Smith's where I received a very kind welcome and ate a very hearty supper.

12. Mr Smith walked with me into town and we visited the new Government House of which Mr Mason is architect. The ball-room will be formed by the breakfast-room, diningroom and drawing-room thrown into one by folding doors and will then present the largest room in the Colony. It is far from a good design being too much of a pretence - the elevation showing columns, pilasters, architraves, a pediment, &c., as though it were a stone building in the Grecian style - instead of being but of wood. A good building could have been designed which would have manifested its material and yet been an ornament to the place.

On returning home I called for Betsy and she and her luggage formed a tolerable load for Rollo. I took the leading rein and walked along by her side. I found out by a few questions that she rather disliked George Glue but liked John Lynch more and more, "the more she saw of him". So perhaps it is a decided case at last.

6 December. Blannie and I started for Auckland: we went straight to the Thatchers', whose house was in confusion - carpets up - books down - furniture in disorder - for which Mrs Thatcher very needlessly apologised to me, but assured me that the Colonel's loan of a soldier for a week was too good an opportunity to get her house thoroughly cleaned to

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DECEMBER 1855

be neglected! They have been so long without a servant that Colonel Wynyard had at last kindly allowed them a soldier to scrub down the rooms and give their house a good cleaning.

After tea Mr and Mrs Thatcher, little Ernest, Blannie and I, went to the Odd Fellows' Hall to attend the first Rehearsal of the Auckland Choral Society of which Mr Thatcher and I are members - each member could introduce one lady. The body of the Hall was well filled with Honorary Members (such as myself) and their friends. The Platform was occupied by about 100 singers and players - the latter being a portion of the 58th Band, who played an overture of Rossini and selections from Mozart (Don Giovanni). The singers were the acting members of the Choral Society and among them were Mr Purchas, Mr Lloyd, Mr Thatcher and Mrs Lloyd - and many other gentlemen living in Auckland.

The first thing they sang was a Madrigal "Now is the Month of Maying" - then came a Glee - then a song "Cinderella", then a part song "See our Oars", then another Glee, followed by a Madrigal "Since first I saw your Face", besides many more such as "Here in Cool Grot", "Sleep, gentle Lady" - and a very amusing catch, "Don't Tickle me I Pray". All of which highly delighted my dear Blannie who had never seen or heard anything of the sort before. "The Waits" was the last thing and then followed "God Save the Queen" exceedingly well done both instrumentally and vocally - all the company standing. Blannie went with Mr and Mrs Thatcher while I hurried through the Town to St George's Bay, Parnell, to Mr Smith's where supper was awaiting me and where I passed a most comfortable night.

7. At eleven took the ponies to Mr Thatcher's and Blannie and I started homewards leaving Mrs Thatcher very busy superintending her soldier servant.

8. While at dinner Miss Lusk came, having walked from Woodlands since breakfast and having stopped in the village besides. After a long rest she started homewards so by the

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PROOFS OF OUR PROGRESS

time she reaches the head of the Turanga Creek she will have walked 13 miles!

14. The Trustees are painting the outside of the Church, which has greatly improved its appearance. Provisions continue at famine prices - the 2 lb loaf is 1/0. Labour during Harvest is expected to be so high that I am anticipating being obliged to reap my own little field of wheat and oats - 2 1/2 acres in all. If I can do it, though my back may suffer my pocket will greatly gain.

Two things I record as proofs of our progress - the introduction of a pair of Pheasants in this village and a very pretty fountain in a garden near Auckland.

18. Mr Lusk called to ask me to visit a woman dangerously ill, living in the forest - he had brought his boat to take me up the creek but could not wait, so Betsy told him she had no doubt I would go to the woman tomorrow.

19. The tide being at dead low water I thought I would venture to ford Mungamungaroa Creek on Rollo and Mamma acceded to my proposal that Blannie should accompany me. When we reached the side of the creek the water was almost out so that there was but a stream some 50 yards wide in the middle and on either side a considerable breadth of flat mud which is very treacherous.

The safe ford however had been pointed out to me so cautiously and slowly we proceeded across the flat into the water. The rest of the ride was safe enough. Bella was agreeably surprised to see her friend Blanche and leaving her and the ponies at Mr Lusk's I walked on to see the sick woman in the forest.

She was very ill but in my opinion not dangerously so. When I was leaving her husband offered to guide me to another cottage in the forest where a woman had just been confined - so thither I went and to the people's great satisfaction baptized the new arrival, giving him the name of Charles. Both these cottages are the rudest habitations I have ever seen, being built of slabs of wood and reeds and letting

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DECEMBER 1855-JANUARY 1856

in the light and wind in every direction: but the occupiers seemed happy and contented and, excepting the sick woman, all in excellent health. I then retraced my steps to Mr Lusk's where they were waiting dinner, which I did not much enjoy, missing my beer - so I don't make a thoroughly good colonist.

25. Christmas Day. A Duck that would quack close to my bed-room window awoke me so early that I was up and in the garden by 5 o'clock. The first thing I did was to drive off the disturber lest Mamma and Martin should be roused up - then I gathered a plateful of strawberries and, dividing it into three, placed one portion by Charlie's bedside together with his usual slice of bread and butter - one on Blannie's dressing table and the other on Mamma's. This was my Christmas box to them.

I then proceeded to the Church to finish the decorations which Blannie and I had last evening made on a more extensive scale than heretofore, having had a larger supply of Pohutukawa than usual. They were all well pleased with the strawberries, being so unexpected and with us now, alas, so rare a fruit.

In the afternoon Mary Ann 51 went to her mother's - and Betsy in her best to Mrs Culbert's to spend the evening with her children, Mrs Crawshaw and John Lynch (who, by the way, was here for a couple of hours last night in the kitchen) so we fancy Betsy is smitten with the youthful swain.

16 January 1856. Heath, who has kindly reaped my wheat and oats without any charge, came today with his Bullocks and Dray to finish his kind work by carrying my crops home: as he was single handed I felt bound to assist him and had a hard morning's work in helping him load and unload. By dinner time I felt quite wearied but sallied forth again to complete the job -but had not forked up many sheaves when Blannie came running to me to say that Mr Ashwell, 52 a Missionary at Taupiri on the Waikato River, was come.

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INVITATION TO TAUPIRI

Sending Blannie over to my Schoolmaster to get him to supply my place as "Heath's labourer", I gladly returned to the house.

I found Mr Ashwell an open hearted man and we were at once on friendly terms. He is short, stout, and has a restless eye and a rapid manner of speaking - and was constantly moving about, now sitting - now walking - now standing looking out of the window - at the books - at the pictures, speaking at the time by fits and starts. I was somewhat amused, but remembering that he was a most successful missionary and had done great things among the Maoris both for their souls and bodies, these peculiarities which struck me at first sight I ceased to notice and had thought only for his interesting account of his mission. He came, however, to ask me to accompany him the next day to Taupiri for a week or ten days. At first I felt disinclined to leave home, but Blanche urged me to accept the invitation, so at last I promised to accompany him.

We gave him and his native some dinner - the latter in the kitchen and as he could talk a little English he entertained Betsy and Mary Ann not a little. After dinner William (the Maori's name) saddled the horses, loading both of them with sundry packets in front and behind the saddles. Blanche immediately walked with me to the village shop to buy a red blanket and a light coat for my journey. During my absence Heath had finished carrying and Stacking the wheat. Labourers have been asking 38/0 an acre for mowing down wheat, so as Heath mowed mine and carried it home for nothing I think myself fortunate.

17. Dear Blanche very busy after breakfast packing my carpet bag, and at 10 o'clock I started - Carpet bag, Blanket and Macintosh strapped on my saddle in front. I was to meet Mr Ashwell at Mr Carter's house (who has lately been appointed to the Church at Otahuhu) at 12 o'clock when we were to start our journey without fail: such was the arrangement last night. Judge of my surprise then, when on reaching Mr

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JANUARY 1856

Carter about 12, I learnt he and Mr Ashwell were absent at Panmure.

Unsaddling Rollo and turning him loose, I walked to Captain Hickson's and spent an hour very pleasantly with the family. Returning to Carter's, found him busy cooking (he keeps no servant) a dinner for me and Mr Ashwell who - he said - had promised to dine with him almost immediately before he started on his journey. He told me Mr Ashwell had only just stepped down to Mr Edward Hickson's, so I said I would follow him there and bring him back with me. I was not a little amused when I entered Mr Hickson's parlour to find him and Mr Ashwell just sitting down to a nice dish of mutton chops and they begged me to join them. Of course I did and enjoyed my dinner.

Mr Ashwell did not seem at all inclined to hurry himself, but at last appeared to remember himself and was then in a great bustle to be off to Mr Carter. We had not gone 100 yards from the house when we met Mr Carter coming in search for us, saying his dinner had been ready a long time! I said nothing and Mr Ashwell held his peace, so back we went to a second dinner which was a nicer and more savoury dinner than the one we already had, but alas - alas - my appetite was now gone. Mr Carter seemed disappointed that his stewed fowl, fried pork and cherry tart were not done more justice to, and I think he almost suspected we had had something at Hickson's, but about 3 o'clock he good naturedly accompanied us to the Village store where we were to meet William with the horses. Here tea awaited us for Mrs Hall would not hear of us starting without having a cup of tea: all this amused me much for I began to think we would not get off till 12 o'clock tomorrow.

To my great satisfaction Mr Ashwell at last determined to start. I soon found I had a curious rider by my side: he would go for a short distance as hard as he could pelt, then pull up, walk along slowly talking all the time and suddenly without any warning start off again full gallop, leaving me far behind till I learnt to watch him closely and so anticipated somewhat his fits and starts.

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THROUGH DEEP WOOD

At 10 o'clock we had reached the edge of the forest and Mr Ashwell determined that here we should pass the night, so we pulled up. Mr Ashwell and I unsaddled our horses and tethered them out for the night, while William put up a small tent, lighted a fire and filled a small copper kettle with water for our tea. Mr Ashwell and I then spread our macintoshes, and over them our blankets upon the fern in the tent, and lay down with our heads close by the entrance while William from the outside handed us the tin pannikins which contained our tea.

That done, we knelt within the tent, William close by our side, while Mr Ashwell offered up Evening Prayer, when we stretched our weary limbs out again. William closed up the entrance to the tent and left us to Quietude, darkness and a few troublesome mosquitoes.

While at Breakfast two natives came up, each on a remarkably good horse - they left Town last night. Like all natives they had been riding like John Gilpin and their horses, early as it was, were already reeking and panting. They pulled up and made use of our fire to get some tea; we each saddled our own horse and about half past six began our day's journey. A mile past and we entered the forest: we had now nearly 20 miles to travel, more or less, through deep wood.

If I had been alone the gloom, the stillness and the roughness of the road would have been anything but pleasant - there being five of us in company the journey was sufficiently enlivened. When we emerged from this forest we were but 3 miles from the Waikato River. We went to a Settler's house (by name of Hayes) and begged some dinner and we asked him to let us leave our horses at his place till we came back (for Mr Ashwell is going to return with all his family as he has exchanged duties with Mr Purchas at Onehunga for a month).

The Hayes, two young unmarried men, who live by themselves, set to work to get some refreshment. They made a roaring fire and to my surprise, after filling a Kettle with water, they put in a quantity of tea and set it over the fire to boil. I anticipated and was not disappoined in having an

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JANUARY 1856

exceeding srong cup of tea - unpleasantly so - particularly as there was no milk to qualify it and no sugar to sweeten it. But such as it was I managed to coax down two cups. The potatoes were pretty well cooked: the ham was as tough or tougher than leather, but there was no room and no occasion for a grumble as they did their best to make us comfortable. It was agreed that the Hayes should walk onward to the river in order to bring back the horses.

The river was fully one fifth of a mile wide and on both sides lined with precipitous hills clothed from top to the water's edge with fine trees. The Hayes were already down at the river's bank and Mr Ashwell carrying his luggage and William his began to descend, leaving me in charge of the three horses to await the Hayes' return, for we thought it no use to take our wearied beasts down so steep a slope. After a longer delay than I anticipated the Hayes returned and giving them strict injunctions to take care of Rollo I left them to resaddle and, shouldering my luggage, I quickly rejoined Mr Ashwell.

I found the little man in a mighty fuss. The canoe which he had ordered had not arrived. I told him I saw when on the top of the hill, four or five canoes coming down the river a great distance off - so we waited somewhat anxiously to see if Mr Ashwell's was one of them. The first three past - the fourth proved to be the one we hoped for.

When we were fairly settled and being paddled slowly along, Mr Ashwell opened a can his wife had sent, filled with ripe gooseberries and cherries, a most unlooked for but agreeable refreshment. When we had gone about 5 miles we came to a native Kainga and we stopped the canoe and got out. As is always the case our first salutation was from a number of lank, grim, half starved dogs that came rushing down the bank barking furiously and making me feel rather nervous. A few words and a few kicks from the congregating natives speedily silenced them and enabled Mr Ashwell to introduce me as Te Minita o Paparoa (the Clergyman of Howick).

Then, while Mr Ashwell had a Korero (talk) with them I wandered about to see all I could. Here a woman was sitting

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EELS AND POTATOES

in front of her whare sewing as handily as any European woman would have done - here I saw another platting a native mat and further on several busy making some neat little baskets. All the women seemed at work - all the men were lounging round Mr Ashwell.

A sort of rush was made by the women to a large heap of raised earth which I had nigh walked over once or twice, not knowing what it was. Judge of my surprise when I saw the women removing the earth and steam oozing out in all directions - I at once guessed it was a native oven. They went on removing the earth till they came to some mats made of flax, each successive layer becoming cleaner looking than the preceding one; at last they came to a huge heap of potatoes smoking hot and transferred them quickly to the little baskets I had seen the women so busy about. The potatoes removed, there were a lot of eels looking most delicately white and beautifully cooked. Mr Ashwell and I forthwith sat down and a native brought us a new basket full of potatoes and eels. Behold us now, squatted on the ground, the smoking basket between us. On a leaf we put a little salt - we have but one knife and one spoon so I make free use of my fingers and could I but have had a glass of beer to wash it all down, I should pronounce that dinner a first rate one.

Mr Ashwell was fortunately enabled to borrow a much larger canoe so that when we recommenced our journey we had sufficient room to lie down at full length side by side - as we went slowly along I noticed much pumice stone, some in considerable pieces, floating down with the stream. Mr Ashwell told me the chimney in his school-house was built entirely of pumice stone blocks caught as they floated down the river past his place.

Before the sun was up we were astir in the canoe: a few hours' paddling brought us to a large Kainga where they were building a good sized Chapel. Much as Mr Ashwell wished to get home, he was obliged to remain here, for the native Teacher (catechist) said he had been expected by the neighbouring Maories to officiate on the following day and

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JANUARY 1856

that he expected a considerable gathering. Nothing therefore was to be done but for me to go on alone.

We only stopt at one place after Mr Ashwell left us - a Kainga where there were a number of natives getting dinner. I landed and walked about among the whares - at last two or three natives came and led me to a hut to see a sick man. I entered and saw a miserable looking old man sitting near the entrance, covering one eye with his hand. He took no notice of me but I gently removed his hand and disclosed a most terribly diseased eye, diseased I guessed by scrofula, the very sight of which almost turned me sick. Directly I released his hand he covered up with it his poor suffering sight and as I felt sure the heat of his rough, dirty hand was by no means a suitable bandage I took out my cambric handkerchief and, tearing it into three strips, tied one over his eye, evidently much to the poor man's satisfaction. His wife asked me whether she should apply an onion poultice, but I ventured to forbid it and advise one made of bread and water. Leaving an extra bandage with the man's wife I put the third remnant into my pocket and wishing the poor suffering man goodbye I returned to the canoe.

It was still very sultry and the paddlers were as often in the water as in the canoe, but we made steady, slow progress and towards evening I was delighted by William calling out to me that we were near Taupiri. They now stopt the canoe and put on their trousers, woollen shirts, neck handkerchiefs, boots - and took great pains in washing their faces and combing their hair. Shortly William stood upright and called to a party some distance ahead who were standing, as I thought, on the river bank on the opposite side, to move away, and when they hesitated he became very energetic, waving his paddle and warning them off.

I asked him what was the matter and why they should move - he told me they were all the girls in Mr Ashwell's school bathing in the river. When they found out the canoe was coming towards them there was a rush up the bank, and in two minutes the whole lot stood quietly looking at us, clothed from top to toe in their long full roundabouts.

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BLUE STRIPED ROUNDABOUTS

Sarah Ashwell was among the number - she called out in Maori: "Have you brought Papa?" - "No," said William. Hitherto I had continued reclining; just now I altered my position and sat upright, thus suddenly showing very plainly my straw hat. Sarah, seing this, said, "Who then have you?" "The Minister of Paparoa." The words were no sooner uttered than all the fair (or dusky) damsels ran away, and when we at last reached the landing place not a soul was to be seen or heard.

Mrs Ashwell met me and welcomed me to Taupiri [and] told me the four young Maunsells had come the day before unexpectedly to spend a week with them and that as they occupied the spare room she must put me in a "closet" - and thankful was I to have a good wash, shave and change, as it was last Thursday morn since I had removed my clothes or had fresh water to my face. I dare say I appeared more presentable when I joined the fair Sarah and her Mother at the tea table. There were there also the four Maunsells, Mary Ashwell, a little child Blannie's age, a Mrs Colenso 53 and her daughter, Fanny.

Soon after tea, it being late, we had family prayers which I conducted. In came a file of fine young Maori women, the head scholars in their blue striped roundabouts. On leaving each curtsied and said "Good night, Sir" and displayed a row of splendid white ivory as they smiled. The large closet in which I slept was filled with shelves loaded with Medicine, for the Missionary in the Interior is expected to prescribe for ailments of the body as well as of the soul and hence is compelled to have a good stock of physick, among which, with all its varied smells, I laid my wearied head and in spite of moschetoes and doctors' stuff slept soundly and well.

20. At 11 o'clock all the family and the school walked down to the Pah to attend the Church, which is built within the Pah. Inside were a number of whares, most of them in a dilapidated state for in this peaceful time the Pah is not occupied as a residence - the natives having built whares "outside

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JANUARY 1856

the walls" up and down the river banks. The chief thing in the Pah now is the noble Church - the sides are formed of rushes very neatly woven together - the roof is thatched - the river side presenting some remarkable platting. All the rafters, side posts, and the three centre posts which support the long ridge pole are painted in a curious and striking manner in a sort of arabesque pattern with three colours - red, white and black.

The native teacher 54 conducted the service, a fine intelligent looking man dressed in shining Wellington boots - spotless white trousers -a short blue serge blouse with a patent leather belt round his waist, fastened with a large brass buckle - nice white shirt, stand up collar and a bright blue silk neck tie; a decidedly decent looking man who, saving his colour and his tattoos, would have passed muster as a teacher in any Sunday School in London.

Soon after our return home Mr Ashwell arrived and the house seemed at once more lively: for he an astonishing lively man and there was no more going to sleep in the arm chair.


[Having climbed Taupiri Mountain on 21 July Mr Lush was at home in his own parish by the following Sunday. The record of his return journey is missing.]


27. A cold raw morning with frequent showers of a small drizzling rain - an unlooked for change in the midst of our fine harvest weather. In consequence of the ungenial weather and the uncertainty as to whether I had returned from the Waikato, the people came not to Church: my morning and afternoon congregations were very thin.

Heard that our neighbour, Captain McDonald, is very ill: I called there and saw his son-in-law, Dr Bacot, who told me he did not expect the Captain would survive the night. I pity his family for he is deeply in debt; his large house with its 120 acres of land is already advertized for sale.

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A REGULAR LONDON CAB

28. Betsy went to St John's College to Mrs Crawshaw's, to go on tomorrow to Auckland to see the Regatta. John Lynch, Mrs Crawshaw's brother, escorted her thither; he spent last evening with her and three evenings while I was up the country, so Blanche thinks it is a decided case.

31. Betsy did not return till today - looking very fatigued and very ill.

14 February. The last time I was in town I noted another proof of progress - viz. a regular London Cab running up and down the streets: the Maories looked at it and grinned.

Yesterday the European who had killed the Native woman was hanged in the presence of a large body of people belonging to her tribe, who had come from the interior to see satisfaction done for their relative's murder.

2 March. Started on Rollo for Onehunga to supply Mr Ashwell's place. After tea with Mrs Ashwell cantered back to Howick. At the Ferry learnt that Mr Ashwell and his daughter had just crossed and had gone into the Church at Panmure to hold a native service to a number of Maories who were working for Settlers in the neighbourhood. As we slowly worked our way across the Tamaki I saw the Maories streaming out of the Church - there seemed a goodly number so it was fortunate that Mr Ashwell had passed through the village and thus assembled them for a religious service.

12. Captain McDonald buried this afternoon.

24. Easter Monday. Blanche and I on Jerry and Rollo started for Onehunga. The hot burning weather still continuing; the journey at times - particularly those parts in the scoria where we were enclosed with high rocks and could not feel the slight breeze we occasionally caught on the more open parts - was exceedingly oppressive. Jerry was soon in a profuse sweat and the dust clung to his coat in all directions and by the time we reached Onehunga he looked anything but a white pony. Blanche bore the heat and exercise admirably: three hours' riding brought us to Major Kenny's - here we

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MARCH-JUNE 1856

rested and had lunch. Thence we went on to Mr Symonds' and about 1/2 past 3 got to the Purchases'.

Mr Purchas was trying to take portraits with a Photographic machine, but from some ill quality in his materials he could not succeed. Blanche sat for hers and I hoped to be able to let my sisters look once more on Blanche's features, but it was a failure.

30 April. Mr Wilson came to breakfast and shortly after he and Blanche started for Auckland - the latter on Rollo, so courageous has she become of late in riding. She is going to Mrs Mason's to spend a few days and she left with our united earnest wishes that she might have a pleasant visit.

5 May. Fourteen year ago were Blanche and I married and we are fourteen years fonder of one another than we were then. We took a pleasant ride together this afternoon, calling upon a Mr and Mrs King who have lately taken the house and farm once occupied by Captain and Mrs Smith.

25. Yesterday I went to Town to attend the new Governor's first Levee. It was held in that portion of the new Government House which was sufficiently finished. There were very many present and the weather was the "Queen's" for it was remarkably fine whereas the day before and today have been very far from bright.

11 June. Late in the afternoon the Revd Riwai Te Ahu called. I was surprised though very pleased to see him. He is a remarkably good looking man: tall, well made and with good manners - altogether showing unmistakably that he is a thorough Rangatira. He had been sent across the Tamaki to look up some Natives and not knowing their whereabouts he had walked on to Howick in hopes I should be able to tell him their locality. We had tea at once for he looked fagged. Martin was very shy of my sable friend and ate his tea more quietly than usual.

Fred very kindly got ready the Pony and I persuaded Riwai to ride while I walked by his side. I showed him his

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A CREDITABLE COLLECTION

countrymen's Kainga and then parted company, racing back in the dark on Rollo.

18. Getting Mr Watts to take the school, Blanche and I went soon after breakfast to visit a Mrs Styak 55 who, although still a young woman, is fast losing her sight. She is indeed almost dark - with a large young family and often servantless her case is a pitiable one.

22 July. Last Friday James Wilson came to breakfast - soon after Blannie, I and he started for Auckland. We went to Mr and Mrs Mason's where I left Blannie and Mr Wilson.

It had been arranged that Mr Purchas and I should exchange duties on the following day; I was therefore not a little surprised when I reached Onehunga on Saturday evening to find Mr Purchas at home. He had written the day before to tell me he was so pressed with medical work that he could not leave his patients! Onehunga happens to have just now no resident medical practitioner, so he is accoucheur and apothecary and surgeon and parson. As no time was to be lost he instantly saddled his horse and started for Howick.

The next day after afternoon Service I rode back to town and reached Mr Smith's at 6 o'clock. I slept at the Smiths' on my usual bed - the parlour sofa. Walked up to the Masons' to see how Blannie was. Fortunately Mrs Mason did not wish to walk out so I took Blannie out myself and we were glad to be unrestrained. We called upon the Thatchers and Lloyds - at the latter house we met Blannie's friend Mary Abraham, and I took the two young friends to the Museum, at which they were delighted. There is really a very creditable collection of shells, birds, reptiles, stones and curiousities - the commencement of what we hope will some day be a large and valuable Museum. My friend Mr Smith was the originator and up to the present almost the sole collector.

At 1/2 past 6 we all went to the Odd Fellows Hall to hear a concert given by the Choral Society for Mr Brown's benefit. The tickets were 7/6 for two persons. The hall was very

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JULY 1856-JANUARY 1857

full but we got good places; the Band of the 58th played in the course of the evening an overture from William Tell - a piece from Donnizetti, and two Sergeants played a Duet on Clarionetts - and a private played a solo on the flute and violin, so we had a fair share of instrumental music, for Mr Brown and his daughter played a duet on the Piano. The songs were "Here in Cool Grot", "By Celia's Arbour", "Come Bounteous May", "Never Give Up", "Now is the Month of Maying", "All Among the Barley", "Mary of Argyle", "Hark the Lark", "The Vesper Hymn", "Blow Gentle Gales", "The White Squall", "Don't Tickle Me I Pray", "From Oberon in Fairyland" - &c., &c. So we had enough for our money and it was late before we got away.


[Here there is a gap of five months in the journals.]


13 January 1857. Mr Patteson 56 brought 11 Melanesians to dinner: they came about 1 o'clock. I shook hands with each and bade them sit down on the Verandah. Charlie very soon came running out and fraternized with them instantly. He brought them Anne's Noah's Ark and they were pleased enough at the variety of animals; a cow - horse - pig - dogs, and a few birds, being the extent of their practical knowledge of zoology. Mamma then came with dear little Martin, who seemed half pleased and half afraid at the sight of so many black men - some with earrings - some - with nose rings - some with armlets and one with anklets - but he was soon at home with them and it was an interesting sight to see him nursed most tenderly and gently by these Islanders. The conrast between his very white skin and long fair hair and their nearly black skin and black woolly hair was very striking.

They stept through the open french window to see an oil painting of a Dutch winter piece: 57 Mr Patteson who spoke Nengone fluently tried to explain what it was the women were skating upon, but the poor lads shook their heads and

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SEVENTEEN TO DINNER

confessed it was too hard for them. Just as Anne 58 came to tell us dinner was ready, Maria Hill and Ellen Maclean came galloping up, so I asked them in; consequently we mustered a large party at the table: 11 Melanesians, Mr Patteson, 3 ladies and myself and Charlie, 17 in all. Blanche had provided a large dish of curried meat and rice and an immense pile of potatoes - a dish of broad beans and two large plum puddings. The Islanders thoroughly enjoyed themselves; Mr Patteson said they had never before tasted beans and never had had so rich a pudding: the whole party took tea with their dinner. Anne was busy enough making tea and pouring it out for so many - particularly as each had more than one cup. All I can say of their behaviour is that I don't believe eleven labouring men taken from any village in England and invited to dine with the local clergymen would have conducted themselves with half the propriety these black fellows did - and yet not six months ago they had not seen a knife and fork and knew nothing of sitting at table to eat their food.

After dinner we all adjourned to my paddock and I brought to them three spears which 2 years ago Champion had procured for me from some of the Islands where these very men came from. They seemed delighted enough to see and handle them and at once began showing us how they could throw them and certainly some of their feats of arms were wonderful. They threw the spears with so unerring an aim and with such force that they struck a piece of scantling not three inches broad with such violence as to pierce the wood an inch and a half. Such a blow could have sent the spear through any man and transfixed him to the earth. Charlie was delighted - Martin too toddled about with a large stick, and tried to imitate them, throwing it before him and then, catching hold of the hand of the person (black or white) nearest, pointed at it and said "Oh la". The Melanesians took great notice of him and the youngest, a tall lad of about 14, took great pains in trying to make him hold his stick in the right way. At 3 o'clock they rested themselves

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JANUARY-FEBRUARY 1857

on the verandah and Anne brought them tea and cake, after which they started on their way back to the College.

Charlie and I accompanied them through the village, Charlie running first with one, then with another, he talking English and they chatting Nengone without understanding a syllable either said yet perfectly happy. When we wished them goodbye the poor little fellow was so sorry to leave them that he did nothing but lament their deparure all the way back: their visit had been one of great pleasure indeed to him as well as to us all. Poor Mamma was very tired in the evening when the excitement had passed away.

21. The Captain [Smith] and I went to see a reaping machine at work on Major Nixon's 59 farm: it is the first and at present only machine of the kind in the Island. We had to ride 20 miles but I would gladly have ridden further rather than have missed seeing at work so useful a machine. Farmers are paying 15/0 per acre for reaping wheat - Major Nixon calculates he now cuts his down for 5/6 an acre. We dined with the Major and rode back in the cool of the afternoon.

5 February. Shortly before dinner the Archdeacon came, according to his own appointment, to visit the Parish, &c. I went out to greet him and he said, "Why haven't you and Blanche gone to Auckland to be at the Oratorio tonight?" I said his intention of coming here today precluded it. "Then," said he, "if you don't go I won't remain for I have no intention of depriving Blanche of such a treat. My fixing upon this day was a mistake on my part."

As I found he was in earnest I promised to start for town with Blannie immediately after dinner, to her infinite delight; for, poor girl, she had been counting on this musical treat for the last month. We started at 3 o'clock - the doors of the Hall opened at 7 - we wanted to get in time for a cup of tea before going in. So we made the fat ponies go faster than usual or I should rather say Blannie did for she was for ever saying, "Now then, Papa" - and away we broke into

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ILL-JUDGED SPECULATIONS

a gallop - and just as I was thinking my old bones were going to have a rest by the ponies walking she dissipated the hope by saying, "Now then, again, Papa", and so off again we scampered and got to town, marvellous to say, by 1/2 past 5, in good time to have tea and a rest.

At 1/2 past 7 Mr and Mrs Lloyd, Colonel Russel and wife and family, Mr Swainson and Ellen and Mary Abraham, went down to the new Hall of the Mechanics Institute. We got good seats - the Hall was crammed, this being the first time that the Messiah had been brought out in the Colony. There were 150 in all of singers and performers, and taken as a whole their Oratorio was most successful. Blannie, dear child, was highly delighted. It was not over till half past ten.

Blannie went home with the Lloyds while I went to Mr Smith's where I met Mr and Mrs Mason with whom I had a long talk about our neighbours the Hills and their truly unfortunate circumstances. Mr Mason attributed all their misfortunes to Mr Hill's ill-judged speculations and their want of a plan in managing his farm. He is going to turn them out and he and Mrs Mason are going tomorrow to take possession once more of their old farm.

16. Ten days since I wrote my journal, I have been so very busy. The Bishop and Mrs Selwyn have returned from the South. They met Bishop Harper at Lyttelton; he arrived at the Canterbury Settlement in time to be "enthroned" on Christmas Day, and the Bishop told me that Bishop Harper was surprised and delighted with the cordiality of his reception by the inhabitants.

17. The whole household went down to the beach for a bathe in the sea - all except me. I stood sentinel on the pier to keep off the little idle boys if any should have been there. Martin was frightened of it - it was his first dip in the ocean - Charlie in extasies and the young "women" delighted.

24. Got breakfast myself in the kitchen before the house were about and started on Rollo for the forest adjoining the Wairoa, 60 to see if I could persuade a settler out there to

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FEBRUARY-MARCH 1857

leave off encouraging a miserable schismatic who calls himself a "New Israelite" from holding meetings and preachings in his house. Fortunately found the man at home and one of the converts to this New Israelite at work with him, so calling them inside - and one or two neighbours - I said I had come to have a korero about these new notions.

So our talk began; the convert's name is Wade. He is an ignorant and very saucy man. Amongst other things he said I should soon lose all my people for something had been found out against me which, when it was known, would cause all the people to leave the Church. I asked him what it was.

He refused to tell - said it was too bad to be spoken! I said: "That is not fair. Come - however bad it is, let us hear it." After some arguing he said, "Well if you must know what it is I will tell you - I have heard say -" And here he paused. I was certainly curious to know what was coming and so evidently were all in the room. "I have heard say," he repeated in a slow, solemn way, "that you are no less than a Puseyite!" 61

When I left this man's house I went on to some more of these bushmen and by the time I reacht Lockwoods' again, Wade had left and Mrs Lockwood had tea laid out for me.

4 March. Had a wedding at the Church. Anne was invited to attend so Blanche lost her services for the rest of the day. In the afternoon saw the bridal party walking two and two (ten couple in all) down to the beach where they hired a whale boat and took a short excursion on the water. Anne did not return before eleven, the hour we had insisted on her being back by, but it seems it was too soon for their "spread" so she came away without tasting their supper and some of the company she told us, only arrived at 1/2 past nine.

5. Took Blannie a ride to see Mrs Styak who has recently arrived from Sydney, not much better for the change. She is still all but blind.

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THE LITTLE ARCHDEACON

20 April. Before the break of day I was walking on my land and so secured an hour and a half's work before breakfast. At 9 attended the school; helped the School master till 1/2 past ten, and then till one o'clock was busy at home teaching Blannie and Charlie. After dinner started on Rollo to visit some of the "out settlers": reacht home at 8 o'clock. Blannie and Mamma were sitting at work ready to hear me read my usual portion of The Queens of England. 62

30. After an early breakfast which Charlie and I had together in the kitchen, I started for Auckland. On my way went to Captain Smith's old farm, now occupied by the Kings, and got from Mrs King an order on Henderson & Macfarline [Macfarlane] for £25. As I was coming away she said she was so sorry she had no present for Charlie with her when she called on his birthday and begged me to give him "this" - putting a folded piece of paper into my hand. I thanked her and when I was some little distance from the house my curiousity forced me to look into the paper and lo! I found a £1 Bank note.

I jogged on, rather pleased with my acquisition of £26 and in due time reacht the College. The College was peculiarly dull and quiet and cheerless and I was glad to hurry on to Auckland. Went to Mr Lloyd's house (now temporarily occupied by Mr and Mrs Abraham), dined with the Archdeacon and Mrs Selwyn and after dinner Nurse brought in the Baby - alias "the little Archdeacon"- alias "little Isaac": a tiny mite of a thing, very fragile but very pretty. Mrs Abraham is in a very delicate state of health. They purpose naming the child Charles Thomas; the Pakehas call him "the little Archdeacon" - the Melanesians were the first to say he should be named Isaac.

Heard, but disbelieved it, that Gold has been found at Onehunga. Still instead of riding homeward I determined to pay Purchas a visit, so I rode to "the Diggings", reaching the Parsonage just at dusk. I questioned him about the finding of Gold: he said he had been from home all day and knew

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APRIL-JUNE 1857

no more about it than I did, but that he disbelieved it also. I had a shakedown in the Study and should have slept very soundly had not the great black cat been shut in with me.

1 May. After breakfast Purchas and I walked to the "diggings", a spot near the beach - the whole report turned out to be a mere... [illegible]. It seems that a man wished to remove a quantity of rock to form a level for the foundations of his house and finding the work advance slowly by his solitary labour he whispered about that he had found gold in the hope that his neighbours would flock in crowds to his "diggings" and clear in a few hours what he will not do in many days. The... [illegible] however did not take and when we went there he was again all alone at his labours.

1 June. Dear Blannie's birthday, completing her 14th year. At Breakfast time Blannie received her birthday presents - from Mamma and me two books - from Charlie 4 sticks of fancy sealing wax and from Anne a box of wafers. Charlie's present came to 1/4 and he had saved up and, poor little chap, he worked very diligently at various little jobs in the garden to earn the rest so that he might feel and say it was his own present to his sister.

5. Yesterday and today have been very tempestuous. Mrs Hill, Georgy, and Alice, however, managed to come here to tea this evening. They will soon be leaving Howick to reside with Edward, Shirley, Roger and Maria in Town.

12. Went round by the College to call upon the Lloyds - found however that the Lloyds had left and the Archdeacon and Mrs Abraham had returned yesterday. Mr Abraham said: "I suppose you know we are going almost immediately to England?" His arm is still perfectly stiff and he hopes to have the dislocation reduced. He told me his journey via Suez would cost him, £400: himself, wife, child and servant. So "going home" is rather expensive.

18. The Archdeacon told me a nephew of his was coming out by and by as a Settler - and that as a preliminary step

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A LARGE BROWN PARROT

his brother had sent him £1000 with the understanding that, as he obtained 40 £ a year from this sum in England and could not afford to lose so much from his income, the Archdeacon was to invest as much of the £1000 in mortgages as would secure him still the £40 a year, and the rest of the £1000 he was to lay out in land for his nephew, to be ready for him on his arrival. Consequently the Archdeacon lent out on mortgage £400, producing £45 a year, which will be sent home yearly to his brother and with the remaining £600 purchased 50 acres of suburban land between the College and Auckland.

25. A large brown parrot (the Kaka) has for a week past taken up its abode in our garden - greatly to Charlie's delight. It is very amusing to see it climb about the trees with its great hooked bill. He was in sight this morning just as Miss Bell came over to see Blanche: she was much surprised at our having such a bird flying about so near the village, but since the increase of shelter by the rapid growth of the many trees I have planted the birds have wonderfully increased. Another year or so and I expect to have in my copse on my farm, the Kukupa (pigeon) and the Kaka; I have already there in numbers the Tui, the Tirakara and the Kingfisher. I have also seen a fine Owl.

19 July. At six I had a Vestry Meeting at my Church. To my great relief and satisfaction the Church Trustee stated to the meeting that the subscriptions and offertories for the past year had enabled him to pay into the Archdeaconry fund the quota of "the Minister's income" the Bishop expected from Howick, viz. £70. In the course of time I hope the people will get better accustomed to the Voluntary Plan 63 and pay their subscriptions as a matter of course - as a duty: few I fear pay as a privilege. Now and then I suffer though from the people being asked to subscribe towards "the Minister's support". For instance I stopt a man and asked him why I never saw him at Church - his answer was that with

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JULY-AUGUST 1857

his large family he could not afford to give me 12/0 a year and therefore as he did not pay anything he was ashamed to be seen in the Church! Nor could I with all my arguments make him think otherwise.

27. Saw the following advertisement in an English paper: "Sixteen Facts Respecting Tobacco, addressed to all who desire a long, vigorous, healthy and happy existence and sent Free by Arthur George Hannent M. D.; 18 Holland Street, North Brixton, London, on receiving a stamped envelope bearing the Applicant's address." Now I wish Alfred would get this pamphlet and send it to me, provided it is against smoking, for of all the bad habits the people here have contracted I believe smoking is the most prevalent - and carried to an extravagant excess.

If the "Facts" are worth it I might possibly get them translated into Maori and inserted in a page of the Maori Messenger 64 - for it would be a good work to stay in any degree the plague of smoking among the Natives - men, women and children, one and all are inveterate smokers, morning, noon and night.

3 August. Charlie becoming popular! Mamma has had a very pretty wheelbarrow made for Martin against his birthday next month; the carpenter was curious to know on what day it was to be given to Martin - "for", said, "I very much wish to make another for Master Charles; he is such a fine little fellow. I like him very much".

Then last evening, after Service at the Trices' I happened to mention that when the days were longer I would one day bring Charlie with me by way of a treat. Upon which Mrs Trice and her husband expatiated in strong terms their admiration for "Master Charles", calling him "such a clever boy". Of course we don't tell "Master Charles" all these good opinions about him lest he should be puffed up - but it is pleasing to find the little fellow is liked.

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MANY HAPPY RETURNS

15. After breakfast I visited three people who are very ill; in each case it is, sad to say, the consequence of excessive drink. Often as I have urged the brewing of beer, I cannot induce these old soldiers to leave off the long established habit of taking Spirits neat - they own they like my beer much, but they confess they like Rum far better. Drinking is the Soldiers' pleasure. Will the reading rooms -libraries - lectures - lately established in most of the barracks at home effect any improvement?

After dinner I had a very pleasant ride to Panmure: I had heard that Captain and Mrs Smith were living there and I wanted to get Blannie's cloak which they have had for months past, but when I reached the village I found they were at least a half hour's ride further on - so I at once returned to the Ferry and found as my fellow passenger across the Tamaki, Mr Fynes, the Roman Catholic Priest, so he and I jogged back to Howick together and I could not help thinking it was a curious coincidence that he and I, both born in the parish of Shoreditch, should have happened to meet and live in the parish of Pakuranga.

27. Went to my land - had a pleasant work till 1/2 past seven. On my return home Charlie came running out, wishing me "Many happy returns of the day". On entering the parlour Martin greeted me with what he meant for the same, and Blannie too. Mamma also got up to breakfast so we were all very happy.

Before breakfast was over Blannie gave me a pair of light drab coloured slippers, embroidered over with black braid - very pretty and very neat - her own workmanship, the first she had ever done. Charlie gave me 4 cedar pencils, Martin 4 sticks of sealing wax, and Anne Sainsbury a small metal pen and holder and some slate pencils.

30. Mamma was not well enough to attend Church. Anne as usual spent the evening with Mrs Crawshaw and her brother, John Lynch; she and he seem reconciled again - amantium irae amoris integratio est 65

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SEPTEMBER 1857

12 September. Bought some more oranges (4) at /6d each and 4 lemons for a sick woman at /4d each. Rode most of the way back with Captain Balneavis - he told me the Superintendent was seriously contemplating building a bridge of some sort - most likely a pontoon bridge - across the Tamaki; the best local news I have heard for a long time.

13. A wet Sunday - as usual. Consequently but a so so congregation. The new bell at the Romanists' Chapel tolled for the first time - beautiful toned bell, the sweetest I have heard since I left England.

15. Soon after breakfast Blanche advised me to send for Mr Warrington, but recalled the advice; so I went on with lessons as usual - but at 1 o'clock I had to start into the village for the Nurse and go to Sergeant Smith to desire him to come up to my house for Jessie to ride to Otahuhu. I hurried home and saddled Jessie and soon after, Sergeant Smith coming, I sent off my note to Mr Warrington. This was at 2 o'clock. I calculated they might be back by 6. Blannie, the boys and I had tea at five when to my surprise and delight Smith and Mr Warrington came: the horses were reeking. Jessie had gone well and again Mr Warrington regretted he had sold her to me. It was fortunate they had travelled so rapidly for before 6 o'clock was born a fine fat baby (Girl). 66

16. Blanche past a pretty good night. At six o'clock Martin woke up and asked as usual for his "baby" (an old rag doll). I gave it to him and then took him to peep at Mamma's baby, which not a little amused him. Mr Warrington left soon after breakfast, promising to come again next Friday. Charlie has passed several hours quietly in his Mamma's room, sitting reading and amusing himself with his favourite book, The Boys' Own Book, and is thus very handy to summon Blannie or Anne when they are needed.

28. A cold wet day. Mamma came for the second time into the drawing-room; Baby very thriving and very quiet. In

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AN IMMENSE FIRE

the afternoon I walked to Bleak House to see the Macleans.

31. Attended the School and then walked to the farm: there I was caught in a very unlooked for shower which wetted me through. Noticed a party of some 7 or 8 people, women and men, a long way out on the dead flats of sand (it was low water) picking up pipis (cockles). They must all have got miserably wet ere they could have run under shelter.

In the evening I heard that this party was no less than a bridal party - a man, a Romanist, had been married this morning in the Chapel and he and his bride (a wee bit of a girl numbering only 13 years!) and their friends had betaken themselves to a pipi gathering as a wedding amusement.

2 October. Estheranne, our new servant that is to be, sent her boxes here today - as an earnest of her own coming. She will take Anne's place and Anne will turn nurse.

5. Mamma told me that Charlie was reading to her a little tale of a boy in America who was flogged to death by his stepfather because he refused to tell a lie. The story seemed to make a great impression upon him and after a little silence he said, "Mamma, when you and Papa die I should like to die with you, and then I cannot ever have a cruel stepfather to whip me to death".

6. Turner having been clearing some land of mine, I knew the heath and manuka would be dry enough to burn well, so I took Charlie to the farm and Turner and I set fire to the fallen stuff and, the clearing being rather heavy and very dry, there was an immense fire, a couple of acres being ablaze at a time. Charlie was delighted, thinking it the best bonfire he had seen: as the fire went out the surface of the land looked as black as coal, but everything burnt off - so the plough can enter at once.

4 November. Went to town today on our Postmaster's horse. Thence called on a Mr Brookfield to try and purchase his light cart and harness - he said he could not determine

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NOVEMBER 1857

on parting with it for 4 or 5 weeks but that he would lend it to me, so when I left Auckland I rode round by Onehunga and called at his residence and, taking the saddle off, harnessed my hack into the light cart and drove home.

14. A good deal has happened during these last ten days - Mamma, Baby and Anne have been in Auckland now a week and sad to say must remain there for the present as Baby requires medical attention daily.

Last Monday I drove them in, together with Charlie, and in the afternoon returned to Howick having left them comfortably settled at the Royal Hotel. On the Wednesday when I went in for them, the first salutation of Mrs Palmer, the hostess of the Inn was, "Oh, Sir - Baby is so ill; Mrs Lush is now at Dr Pendergrast" [Prendergast].

Without waiting to hear any more I ran over the way to the Doctor's house. Blanche, Charlie and Baby had just left but the Doctor told me the baby was suffering from a bad abscess in the groin. I followed them to Mr Lloyd's where we made arrangements for Blanche, Baby and Anne to stay while I took Charlie back to Howick.

16. Being a fine morning I proposed to Blannie that she and I should ride to Auckland to see Mamma and dear Baby. She was delighted with the proposal and so diligent in forwarding things that we were able to start by 9 o'clock. Jerry and Jessy were in first rate order so we had many "nice" gallops (as Blannie calls them). I left her at Mr Lloyd's gate to announce her unexpected arrival. I returned at 3 o'clock - Blannie was ready to start homewards. I ran in to see Mamma and Baby - the former most anxious to be home again, the latter very poorly, Dr Pendegrast having but an hour ago opened the abscess and caused her to scream very much. Anne said she longed to be at Howick again; it had seemed to her a month instead of a week only since she left.

Blannie and I had a delightful ride back; this is not a bad day's ride for Blannie (30 miles) and since tea she has had a game of draughts with Charlie and, at this moment, is sitting by my elbow doing her daily quota of sums.

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THE HOUSE IN DANGER

17. After dinner I took in the light cart for Mamma. The ostler had left the Livery stables, so I had to go in search of him and persuade him to leave his gardening to attend to my horse. This made it late before I got to the Royal Hotel where I wished to get a bed.

18. Got up late: Mrs Palmer sent me up a capital breakfast which I enjoyed almost as much as a stray number of Fraser's Magazine which I devoured during my repast. They charged me 6/0 for tea, bed and breakfast.

Mamma and Anne very glad to get once more to Howick. We had not been home two hours when we were very much alarmed by the Kitchen chimney catching fire; the wind was unfortunately high and the danger for a time very great, for the flames were beaten down by the wind towards the shingles, and had one of them but taken fire the whole house must have gone.

While in town heard that the Southern Cross had come into the Harbour bringing the Bishop, Mrs Selwyn, Mr Patteson and 35 natives from the Solomon Islands. I hear the Bishop called at 85 Islands during this trip. As Norfolk Island is the nearest to New Zealand they touched there on their outward voyage and landed Mrs Selwyn, who remained with the Pitcairners till the Southern Cross called for her on their way home.

26. We have once more had heavy rains and cold winds - last night the hail lay in pailfulls about the paths but at the first peep of the sun above the Horizon it all disappeared. Many despair of ever seeing again our boasted New Zealand summer weather. Mr Warrington is so wearied with the continued wind and rain that he declares he will return to England for the sake of enjoying a little sunshine.

28. A most splendid day. Everyone I met expressed their hope that summer was come at last.

10 December. We have had a week of fine weather at last! Yesterday there was a public meeting on the village green

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DECEMBER 1857

to form a Committee to collect subscriptions for making a bridge across the Tamaki, a work most earnestly desired by all the residents this side [of] the country. We hope to raise £1000 and then the government will meet us with £2000 and for £3000 it is hoped the bridge may be built.

17. Charlie has come out strongly in the Line Poetical. He was sitting in the shade of the large willow tree in front of the house a good deal this morning; Mamma thought him rather more quiet than usual, but a little before dinner time he rushed in, in one of his violent hurries, and asked for Paper and pen and ink, "for", said he, "I have been making some verses".

Down he sat to write and when I came in to dinner was very earnest that I should see his poetry but I put it off till after dinner for the entertainment of the family as a sort of dessert. He then produced a rough piece of brown paper on which he had written in good round hand the following:

A FEW LINES ABOUT DOGS
Be cheerful and smiling
Don't go about prowling
When dog's bones you are eating
You'll have a good beating
If I were you I
Should not go and try
To get a dog's bone
For 'tis not your own.

22. Took Charlie, Esther and Anne in the light cart to Auckland to visit the Bazaar - or, as it should be called, the Fancy Fair - which Mrs Gore Browne, the Governor's Lady, has "got up" to raise the requisite money for building a new Infant School in connection with St Paul's School.

The tents were pitched on the lawn in front of the Government House and with the flags, &c., made a very pretty appearance: the Band of the 58th were on the ground and enlivened the whole Fair with their "sweet music".

Shortly after we were on the ground we saw the Bishop and Mrs Selwyn enter together with Blannie, who had walked hither with them, Mrs Kissling not approving of

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VERY QUIET FESTIVITIES

Bazaars and so not coming. The Bishop gave Blannie a sovereign to spend. She left them and joined us. We stayed on the ground from 12 to 5; I then took them (i. e. Anne, Esther, and Charlie) to the Windsor Castle where I ordered tea. They gave us cold beef - cold mutton and cold ham - new and stale bread - lettuces and radishes - and tea, with a plentiful supply of milk, and charged but one shilling each - a charge I think would be called moderate even in England.

24. This afternoon Blannie and I began the decorations in the Church which we are attempting on a much more extended scale than hitherto. In the evening the Rev. Mr Wilson came and asked for a bed - we were able and glad to receive him.

Christmas Day came in cloudy but very hot. Blannie and I were up soon after 5 and finished the Church. Mr Wilson staid breakfast and helped me with the morning Service: the Church was crowded.

When we left the Church at 1/2 past 12 it was raining fast. We had our usual Xtmas dinner - Roast beef - plum pudding - cherry pie - custards - potatoes and peas. We had arranged to have a picnic on the farm in the evening for tea, so the rain caused great disappointment. However, late in the afternoon I took Anne, Esther, Martin and Charlie a drive in the Ranges. After tea we had snap-dragon and so ended the very quiet festivities at the Parsonage, Howick.

8 January 1858. Started after breakfast on foot for what I consider the extremity of my charge in the Turanga Creek direction: the day was very hot so I took off my coat and walked slowly through the forest and over open fern ground until I came to Woodlands. But I did not call on the Lusks but pushed on to my destination.

The Lusks are effecting great changes in their farm - breaking up large tracts and having this Autumn a goodly show of wheat, oats, and potato crops. Their garden looks the gayest I have seen this year. I counted three ploughs at

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JANUARY-MARCH 1858

work and one claycrushing machine. They hope to reap all their corn with the reaping machine.

After a further walk of three miles I reached the Lockwoods' - where I had some dinner. I then proceeded to visit two of his neighbours and retraversed my steps to the Lusks' where I was refreshed with a tumbler of milk. I reached home very tired shortly after eight and was glad enough to have my tea.

17. Second Sunday after Epiphany. Got up early and started about 7 on Jessie for Town as I had offered to exchange duties with my Guest, Mr Kingdon. 67 I reached the Windsor Castle at 10 and then slowly retraced my way on foot to St Mark's Church. The congregation was considerable: the singing was first rate. After Church Mrs Burrows, Mr Baber and Mrs Bucanon [Buchanan] asked me to come and dine. I accepted the first who spoke, Mrs Burrows -the wife of a Missionary - but I had a very hurried meal for I had to take the stockade between the morning and afternoon services. There were but seven prisoners in the Stockade, so I read the Litany and then, sitting down, for I was tired, I read and expounded a chapter in St Matthew's Gospel.

Hence I walked to Epsom, a long and weary walk, and got there half an hour after my time: the School-house was full and there were two Christenings - it was half past four before the service was over, and I felt sick and very tired as I walked back to the town.

The men at the Ferry were in bed - so I was delayed there some time and the rest of the way it was too dark to go out of a walk, so it was eleven o'clock before I reacht home.

6 March. I have received my instructions from the Bishop - he requests me to have Morning Service every Sunday at Howick: on one Sunday to proceed to Turanga Creek (to the Lusks') to a Service at 3 o'clock - and on another Sunday to the upper Wairoa for an afternoon service there. So, with my present extra duty at the Trices' I shall now have

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TWO CALVES MISSING

three "stations", so to speak, to say Prayers and Preach - beside the Church at Howick: and Howick loses 2 afternoon services in the month. There is no prospect however of any extra payment but that I should not mind did I see the prospect of receiving my ordinary pay.

13. Turner came and told us that he missed two calves from the Paddock at Cockle Bay. They were 18 months old and, we fear, as the fence is very good, they have been stolen. This is a serious loss - one I feel just now - for I had been calculating upon selling these with 3 more to pay for my grass seed and some ploughing. In the evening killed a pig, the third we have had from our land.

14. Got up at 1 past 5 to cut up the pig -it weighed 148 lbs. Blanche got up at 6 and salted it down: so it was scoured before the sun got up too high. Out all the morning searching for the calves but can see no trace of them.

14 [sic] Fourth Sunday in Lent. A windy and threatening day so I expected a small congregation but to my surprise the Church was full.

Had a hasty dinner and then Blannie and I started for Woodlands. We trotted as much as we could and by doing so reached Mr Lusk's within ten minutes of the time I had expressed to him, viz. 3 o'clock. His dining-room was filled with people: more could not have come in. The responses were general, the singing hearty and they seemed attentive to my sermon. If all my services go off as well as this I shall be content.

15. After breakfast I mounted Mr Lusk's horse and rode into the forest and visited several of the out settlers. Got back by 1 o'clock: found that Mr Kissling and Mr Purchas had arrived to select, with Mr Lusk, a site for a School-house in this district. They had had an upset on their way here but fortunately without injury to themselves or the horses. After dinner they started on foot on their business, and Blannie and I mounted our horses and returned home, Blannie with a goodly number of the Monthly Packet which Bella had lent her.

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MARCH-APRIL 1858

We reached home in time for tea. To my great annoyance I heard that Turner could not find my missing calves.

16. After another long search the calves were found and brought back safely.

27. This week Blanche and I have been out in the cart twice - a most unusual occurrence: one day we went to Otahuhu and dined and had tea with the Warringtons, and yesterday we drove over to Onehunga and called upon the Brookfields - Ormsbys - Purchas - Lawlors - and Major and Mrs Kenny with whom we had dinner. On our return we called on the Wilds and had some tea.

Here is just the end of March and no sign of any salary from my people. What a state I should be in were I wholly dependent on them!

6 April. Easter Tuesday. Miss Lusk has arrived: she had heard that I was going to town tomorrow to attend a clerical meeting and had come down the creek with the hope I would drive her to Auckland. Of course I could but "lay my hand on my heart" figuratively and tell how how happy I should be.

7. Got up at 5 and disturbed the household. Fetched the horse up from the field, curried her down - harnessed her into the cart and got ready for breakfast, but we had all to wait for Miss Lusk, so instead of starting as I wished at 7 it was 20 minutes past 8. To add to our delay the punt had been injured and I had to drive round by Otahuhu, so it was 12 o'clock before we reached Town.

However I was in time for the meeting - there were but 5 clergymen present. Mr Purchas spoke strongly of his hardship in not having any salary from his Parishioners - he said that at his last Vestry meeting he had told the people he should leave the country if they left him unpaid much longer. I spoke of the desirability of establishing a Book Hawker to visit with safe publications the lone farm houses and the distant settlers' huts, but I suppose want of money will prevent the scheme from being attempted.

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FISH OUT OF WATER

11. Gave notice in Church this morning that on the 2nd and last Sunday in every month there would be no afternoon service: the people seemed surprised but as they don't or won't pay anything to the Clergyman they must not grumble if he occasionally goes elsewhere.

Just before I reacht the Lusks' there was a heavy rain, but thanks to Blanche's thick blanket shawl I did not get very wet, though the storm had the effect of thinning my little congregation. Mr and Mrs Tibbatts [Tebbutts] were there; they have lived all their days up to the last year in the parish of Soho, London - and now, located as they are in the very heart of the Forest in New Zealand, they are just like fish out of water. Poor people - I do sincerely pity them: they would have been better off had they emigrated into the Thames tunnel.

21. Went to Town to fetch Blannie home. Within the last fortnight the Bishop has returned in his schooner from the South, and I have not called upon him. Mrs Kingdon told me at dinner time that three different times the Bishop had enquired about me - and wanted to know whether I should be in town. I made them all laugh by saying: If his Lordship's anxiety about me was simply a Fatherly interest in my health and prosperity I feel very grateful, but if it proceeded from a desire to ask me to undertake more work, I was thankful I had missed seeing him. I added: I should now keep out of his way.

Blannie and I left town about 1/2 past 2. We went round by the College as I wanted to get a Bible and Prayer Book from the Depot for two of my parishioners. We went to the Bishop's house expecting to see "old Nurse" only - but who should we meet but the Bishop. He really seemed pleased to see me and, as he only talked about the prospects of the Church at Wellington and Nelson and did not ask me to do more than I am doing, I was really pleased to see him. We got home by tea time and heard a famous piece of news, viz. that Baby has a tooth through.

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APRIL-MAY 1858

27. Being Constance's birthday, Mrs Hargreaves had asked Blannie and the two boys to spend the day at Batley. Mr Hargreaves mentioned a land sale that had just taken place.

A Mr Keven, a boot and shoe maker, some two or three years ago bought 250 acres of land at Coromandel Harbour for which he gave 250 £. Soon after gold was found some few miles off. This year he had his land laid out into a town and a village: a block cut up into little allotments; on the map as drawn by the Surveyor it looks a large and important city - with its Church of England - Roman Catholic Church - its Presbyterian Church - Wesleyan and Independent Chapels. But in reality it is [a] barren wild spot of very inferior land with nothing on it but a low scrub of underwood through which you can trace the surveyors' lines.

Well, this "Wynwardton" [Wynyardtown] was put up to auction - the terms being 1/4 of the purchase money down - the rest on mortgage on the allotments for 10 years at 10 per cent. The Auction room was crowded: the competition was keen and the results most satisfactory to Keven; 150 acres of his 250 realised upwards of £3000 - thus bringing him in £300 a year, besides which he still retains 100 acres to sell again by and by if Wynwardton should become, as the buyers hope it will, an important city. Almost all the buyers had never seen the place.

24 May. Although [it was] the Queen's Birthday I remained at home, for the killing of one of our pigs was to me of more importance than the Governor's Levee. The pig was the largest we have yet killed and, being one of our own feeding, the meat we know to be wholesome - a praise we cannot bestow upon all the pork we have from the Butcher.

In the evening in Honour of the Day, I lighted and suspended in the passage the little variegated lamp Selina sent to me - the one she said [was] like the lamps used in the streets of Constantinople: even Baby was delighted and kicked and crowed and stretched out her little hands to the bright and pretty colours. It was our "illumination" in honor

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AN IDLE NEIGHBOUR

of Her Majesty's Birthday. Martin went to bed supremely happy - how small a matter will often amuse children.

25. The children discovered two owls sitting in the shadiest part of a gum tree: and a large green parrot in the garden. We hope they will remain on the premises - but unfortunately our nearest Neighbour, Dr Bacot, is an idle man and sits on his Verandah most of the day, reading novels and smoking cigars, and with his gun loaded by his elbow - so almost every bird that flits across his garden is sure to be knocked down and we fear our owls and green parrot will sooner or later go the way of all the birds.

Blannie, the two boys and myself took a pleasant walk to the farm this afternoon: I took some whitethorns and aloes to plant near the edge of the cliff; Blannie took some left-off clothes for little Annie Gibson, Mrs Turner's small servant.

27. Poor little Martin let his tongue out run discretion this afternoon for Anne and Esther were both coming down the passage together, both neatly dressed. Martin surveyed them from head to foot and then exclaimed: "Esther is the pretty girl, Anne is an ugly girl." Poor Anne, who is eaten up with conceit and is very jealous of Esther, was quite upset by this strong dose of praise bestowed upon her rival: but the little chap only acted upon the old adage Handsome is as Handsome does - for Esther being always kind to Martin has won his heart, whereupon he looks upon Anne with aversion for she is so often cross with him. But really Anne is the prettier girl of the two.

She said quite tartly: "Who put such nonsense as that into your head?" Whereupon he said quite innocently: "No one. I put it into my head myself."

31. Today was remarkably fine. Blannie and I took a ride to Mr Styak's to see a stove his wife uses in the Kitchen instead of the common open fireplace. Blanche is thinking of buying something of the sort for there is so much fatigue attending our present plan. I generally read aloud for half

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MAY-JULY 1858

an hour or more before nine o'clock. This evening I began Peveril of the Peak.

17 June. The next house to ours, where first Captain McDonald lived - then Mr Mason, then Mr Hargreaves - and then Dr Bacot - is now being occupied by a Captain and Mrs Rooks; 68 they are sending in their goods today. Dr and Mrs Bacot still live in the village close by.

This afternon I buried an old man of 79 years of age who formerly was a Lieutenant on board H. M. S. the Dromedary. He has lived many years in obscurity and poverty in New Zealand but always bore an excellent character and was always clean and neat in his person; I have known him for the last 5 years. During his last illness I found out that he was a brother-in-law of the late Lord Collingwood - that he had been dismissed the Navy for disorderly conduct and that he so felt the disgrace that he had lived thus retired in New Zealand, utterly unknown to any of his relatives.

21. Blanche and I called upon Captain and Mrs Rooks; he is an immense man with a beard and moustaches but no whiskers. She is thin, pale and looks unhappy.

22. Charlie complained today of headache so he has had a warm bath and a little medicine to ward off, if possible, any approach of convulsions.

7 July. So many days have elapsed since I last wrote my diary that I can give but a brief summary of the events now past almost from my mind.

Blanche told me that Gussie and Philly Abraham were complaining so much of the dullness of their holidays - no fine weather - no horses to ride - no papa at home - that she could not refrain from asking them over to Howick and had agreed that I should call for them the next time I went into town with the cart. On Saturday, having to go in, I called for them to their evident pleasure and brought them over with me.

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WITHOUT ANY SERVANTS!

On Monday morning I hired two horses in the village for Gussy and Philly and they and Blanche and I went a very long ride to Ascot, Captain Haultain's new residence. I wanted to give the boys a day's riding and I also wished to tell Captain Haultain that we had determined after a good deal of consideration to take 4 little boys to educate with Charlie and that I had already mentioned the subject to Mr Hargreaves and expected I should have Willie - and that I hope I might have Theodore. Captain and Mrs Haultain seemed very pleased with the proposal: we shall see what comes of it in time.

31 August. An unexpected arrival of letters and newspapers from England has reminded me that I have not journalized for a month past, but the fact is my time becomes more and more occupied and I go to bed more tired than heretofore and am so far the less disposed to exert myself late in the day, writing a diary. Blanche is in Auckland trying to arrange with some Dress Maker to receive Anne as an apprentice for a year. It will be an expensive job for us but the relief will be great: she has become almost insupportable. It is our purpose to try to do without any servants! Of course we shall have a charwoman up every afternoon to wash up plates, dishes, &c., &c., but we think it will be pleasanter and cheaper to dispense with domestics in the house; we shall see. We have never tried it: but of this much I am quite sure it will be delightful to be without Anne. How very thankful I am we have a small private income, for the amount I have received from the Parish since last January is the large sum of £0. 0. 0. I must live in the hope that things will mend.

We are just now very anxious about poor dear Charlie. It had been arranged that little Teddy Haultain should come here to live and be educated with Charlie on the 1st of next October but I am now going, the first decidedly fine day, to Ascot to tell the Haultains of our trouble, for since the arrangement was made with the Haultains poor Charlie has had two very sad attacks of decided convulsions. Previous

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AUGUST-OCTOBER 1858

to these two last attacks he had been for several days amusing himself with making a bridge across one of the gullies in our field near the house; it was his own idea and all his own work. Indeed I knew nothing of it till it was finished, when I had the satisfaction of walking across the gully without wetting my shoes.

We think it so essential that he should not be worried with any thing that we are taking measures now to get rid of Anne (alias Betsy), for she, presuming upon her length of service, so constantly interferes with him that she is a source of irritation to him.

16 September. We are in a fair way getting rid of Anne. We had hoped she would have married long before this, but [she] having refused 3 good offers we began to think she was going to quarter herself upon us for life, so we gladly avail ourselves of the fact of the people having neglected to pay me any salary, to dismiss our servant upon the plea of the necessity to economise. Anne is going into Auckland to be apprenticed to a Dressmaker - we paying her premium - £10.

19. Our new neighbours, 69 the Crapps, were at Church. Most of the young folk, they say, speak nothing but French. Blannie is in hopes their arrival may be of use to her.

22. Called upon Mr Crapp. He is an old gentleman of 65, rather too old to come out to a Colony: but as he said, it was for his children not for himself he came. His Wife, daughter and eldest son are still in Auckland - he expects them out every day. His eldest daughter is just Blanche's age - French is her natural tongue, Englsh is her acquired language; so she speaks French like a native of France and finds a difficulty in conversing in English.

Anne Sainsbury has commenced packing her things.

1 October. For a whole week we have been without a servant residing in the house: and, though more fatiguing to us

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VERY ODD FITS

all and particularly to Blanche, we all agree it is far more pleasant than when we had two domestics. Last Sunday Anne would go to the Wairoa on a visit to some friends of hers named Roberts. We expect her back early next week to get herself quite ready for her removal into Town on the 9th of this month.

During the past week we have had a little girl of about 11 years of age whose parents live within 25 yards of our front gates, every day from about 7 in the morning till 6 or 7 in the evening, to mind Baby and be a little "reach-me-come-fetch-me-body" and a handy little girl we find her. Then each afternoon a woman of the name of Heath has come to wash the plates, dishes, &c., and Mamma and Blannie do the rest of the work - no slight quantity - particularly before breakfast when there are 3 boys to bathe, the baby to wash, the rooms to sweep out and the breakfast to get. I say 3 boys for Teddy Haultain is now with us to Charlie's great delight. He, poor boy, I deem decidedly better: he has very recently had another attack of his very odd fits, if I should call them by such a name. I still fondly cling to the hope that he may outgrow them. I lay them wholly to the Scarlet Fever and that terrible fit of convulsions that he had shortly after. 70

4. Anne has been away now a whole week and we have heard nothing of her: next Saturday, the ninth, she was to have gone to Town to join a young woman of the name of Pemberton as a dressmaker, but Blanche received a letter from Mrs Jones (with whom Pemberton has been living as Lady's maid) to say that Pemberton had been unexpectedly disappointed of her lodgings and that Anne must not come to Town till she hears further - this is very unfortunate for us as it leaves us so very unsettled.

5. No Anne yet. She is determined to have as long a holiday as possible.

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OCTOBER 1858-JANUARY 1859

6. Anne returned at last.

16 January 1859. Anne Sainsbury is once more in the village, having left Miss Pemberton yesterday. I had apprenticed her for a year and paid Miss P. 10 £ premium, beside which she persuaded Anne to lend her 11 £. 10. 0: after which she conducted herself so badly that had Anne remained with her she too would have lost her character, so I was forced to desire Anne to return to Howick till I can decide what next to do with her; this is a great disappointment and unlooked for expence.

Anne is not in our house, we have taken lodgings for her in the village. She told us that when she was in the carrier's cart, Charles Roberts and his wife passed on horseback on their return from town; so I could not help saying: "And you, Anne, might have been his wife and riding your own horse if you had not been so exceedingly foolish; you have thrown away three excellent offers and now have not a home to go to."

19. Met poor Anne in town - she had come in from Howick to see whether she could induce Pemberton to pay her the money lent, but she had been unable to meet with her; she was also in great trouble for the Carrier in taking her goods to Howick last Saturday had lost one of her boxes, containing almost all her linen. I took her to a lawyer and gave him instructions to write a letter to Pemberton asking for the £11. 10. 0 and I promised to compel the Carrier to make good the loss of her box, so I somewhat comforted the poor girl: but she is an intense goose.

21. Anne called this evening to say she was going to Auckland tomorrow to try to get a place as an "Improver" at another Dress Maker's: she told us she had recovered the missing box and its contents were all right.

31. Poor Mrs Warrington has been and gone: expects to sail very shortly for England. Mr Warrington has left her in very straitened circumstances and her father, who is old and

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A PLACE TO PREACH IN

infirm, is living alone in Hereford, so she purposes going to keep house for him.

13 February. After service I walked to Turanga Creek Heads, to the house the Lusks used to inhabit (a Mr Flatt lives there now) and had service to a nice little congregation. Immediately after I retraced my steps to the confluence of the Maungamaungaroa Creek and the Turanga Creek, where Trice's boat and a man were waiting for me, and I went on to his house where his large dining-room was filled with Natives. After the Evening Prayers were said I baptised two very pretty little Maories - a boy and a girl - one about 9 months and the other about two months old. I then baptised 7 adult Maories and two old women; their names were as follows - Reiha Kihi (Eliza Kiss), Reihana Hi (Nathan Hi), Hone Karaka (John Clark), Hone Matenga (John Martin), Ihaia Tahora (Isaiah Tahora), Wiremu Nerewini (William Urwin) and Susan Turiti.

14. I slept at the Trices' and this morning the elder brother lent me his horse and I visited the people in the forest towards the Wairoa. I hope I shall persuade them to build a small Chapel-school so that their children can be instructed during the week and I shall have a decent place to preach in on the Sunday. There is almost sufficient promised towards it.

5 June. Last Thursday I took a severe cold. I nursed myself Friday and Saturday in the hope of being quite well today, but was so hoarse and low in my voice during the service that I dropt my sermon and gave notice there would be no afternoon service. Blannie went to the Sunday School which was also attended by Mrs Peacocke, her daughter, and Governess, Miss Vibert.

Captain Rookes called to enquire after me and very much surprised us by saying that he was going to leave altogether and should return to England by the Swordfish: he thought the Colony a sham - a regular "take in" - and considered he had wasted two years by being here.

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JUNE-JULY 1859

9. Sent word to Major Peacocke that I was going up into the forest and wished to know whether he would accompany me. Sent word back that both he and Mrs Peacocke would like to go if I would lend the latter the white pony: so at 10 o'clock I took Jessie and Jerry next door, but the Major felt too unwell and sent his son Rowley [Raleigh] instead.

Mrs Peacocke enjoyed the ride very much: Jerry, tho' carrying the tallest lady in the parish, cantered along nicely. We went to the extreme limits of my visiting circle, to the Tibbatts' in the depths of the forest. There we had a very welcome cup of tea and ate our sandwiches and after a short rest started homeward, but Mrs Peacocke was unable to go faster than a walk and consequently we were after sun down long ere we emerged from the forest; the rest of the way was by the light of a brilliant moon. We did not reach Howick till near upon nine o'clock - both the Major and Blanche becoming anxious, the one about his wife, the other her husband.


[Margaret Edith Lush, born 5 July 1859 at Howick.]


13 July. I rode in the afternoon to the forest. Most of my small and scattered flock were assembled together: after Service I accompanied some of them further into the forest as Mr and Mrs Tibbatts had offered me a bed in their cottage. This morning called upon several other families living about the forest and I was glad to find a good deal of the wood sawn for the new Church - or rather Chapel-schoolhouse.

25. Fitted up an American parlour stove in Blanche's bedroom as she found it cold and damp. In the evening I attended a Churchwardens' meeting - there were but 6 persons present beside the Churchwardens. The subject of discussion was an unpleasant one to me - viz: how they were to pay me and how many refused to subscribe and how many made excuses.

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WORK AT ANY WAGE

1 August. Last Wednesday's post brought me a letter from the Bishop, desiring me to go on the Sunday following to the Wairoa, and on to Papakura flat for an afternoon service; so on Saturday morning I started with my plaid and knapsack and walked to the sandpit at the mouth of the Mungaroa creek, which when it was low water I waded across and so got to the entrance of the Turanga Creek, where I was a long time before I could make the Trices hear me.

Mrs Trice gave me some dinner while her husband kindly prepared his horse. By riding hard I reached the banks of the Wairoa, alighting at a settler's house whose name was Edwin Roberts; his wife instantly got me some tea and delicious bread and butter and honey, and by six I was in their canoe and Edwin paddling me up the River. It was now after sun down but though no moon the stars were bright and the river with the neighbouring hills and fine forest trees looked grand and picturesque. Every now and then we passed a settler's house - discernible only by the light in the windows sparkling amidst the deep gloom of the surrounding trees. After paddling three hours we came to Mr Thorp's 71 landing place. [Here the entry stops abruptly.]

10 September. Before dinner visited four sick people - an unusual number for us. An enormous influx of people pouring into the Colony. We are becoming inundated. I fear provisions will be high and there will be great distress with a vast number of new comers.

10 November. Two of the young new comers (of whom there are such numbers now) called upon me seeking work; work at any wage rather than starve. I wrote a note to Mr Roberts on the Wairoa asking him to employ them. Fortunately as they passed my farm they saw Heath (my man); he told them Roberts was then in his house, so they came to arrangements very quickly and I understand returned joyfully to Auckland for their clothes, &c., and for some more

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NOVEMBER 1859-FEBRUARY 1860

of their fellow passengers, as Roberts could employ a gang of six at clearing.

15. Walked over my farm soon after six this morning. The crops covering about 15 acres (oats 9 acres - potatoes 4 acres - 1 acre Sorghum Saccharatum - 1 acre of Buck wheat) are looking promising but wanting rain.

24 February i860. Another sultry day. One or two cases of English Cholera in the village.

A most respectable looking man called the day before yesterday and stated he was wandering about looking for employment - he had been to Onehunga, Otahuhu, Drury, &c., in vain, and had just reached Howick with his wife and infant child; had spent his last shilling and knew not what to do for a meal or lodging. He wished to try Auckland once more so I told him to take his wife and child to Mr Gill's and tell him I should pay for their lodging till Saturday evening. He promised to return last night but on calling at Gill's today [I learnt that] he had not made his appearance - so I warned them I could not be responsible for any of the Woman's expences after Monday morning.

27. After breakfast started on Jerry to the Turanga Creek. Soon after my return Mr Price made his appearance; he thanked me for the lodging his wife and child had had and took his departure - not knowing where to go or what to do. A painful case but not uncommon, for many clerks and men wholly unaccustomed to labour emigrate and on their arrival in the Colony find it almost an impossibility to obtain the work they have been accustomed to, and to dig they are unable.

28. Mr and Mrs Mason, now again (for the second time) our near neighbours. They told us very sad news: that the Natives are all but at war with the Europeans at Taranaki! This is the saddest news we have heard since our arrival.

29. The New Zealander gave us more details of the disturbance - it is of sufficient importance to have caused the Commander in Chief - the Governor - and almost all the soldiers

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THE YELLOW FLAG

to hasten immediately to Taranaki. The Militia and the Volunteer Rifle Corps will do duty in the meanwhile in Auckland.

4 March. Sunday. Very hot. Church almost intolerable - it must be enlarged.

11. I rode to Turanga Creek and there had the pleasure of holding afternoon Service in the new School House, situated half way up the valley on a rising knoll which enables it to be seen for miles - either way. It is built rather churchlike - having a porch on one side, a vestry on the opposite side and a belfry over the west gable.

22. Started on foot for Auckland. The Frenchman with 200 immigrants on board from London is anchored some six miles off shore with the yellow flag hoisted -they having the smallpox on board. I dined at the Lloyds' and met on my return towards home Mr Blackburn, Master of St John's College, and Mr Kingdon, in a dog cart. I stayed the evening at the College, sleeping on the parlour sofa.

25. The College youths brought out the first number of St John's College Magazine - a MSS with pen and ink illustrations which were exceedingly well done by Arthur Gundry, about 16 years old, a half caste. The various articles kept us in a roar of laughter - particularly a short "poem" by Hugh Lusk - and the illustrations to which were remarkably happy.

After Chapel Kingdon and I walked to Koromarama [Kohimarama] - about 2 1/2 miles off - towards the sea, to visit Mr Patteson and the Melanesians. The Buildings form three sides of a quadrangle, the vacant side open to the sea and the warm winds. They are erected on a flat surrounded by low, wooded hills and remind one of a Monastery; the Hall is a very fine building with handsome open roof - the Kitchen would make a show even at Cambridge it is such a noble room with such a wide open fireplace. The Hall and Kitchen and Chapel - the latter quite new, built with the

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MARCH-MAY 1860

proceeds of The Daisy Chain: the first instalment Patteson received from the profit of that publication amounted to nearly 1500 £; last year the sale produced £700. It was a noble gift of Miss Yonge's, 72 to dedicate the profits from one of her most popular works to the Melanesian Mission.

15 April. Our present unsettled state is most harassing -so many rumours floating about, we can but wait and hope for the best.

19. Busy packing up a large box of our best books: I hope to send the case to some Friend's house in town soon. Major Peacocke is in hopes that Howick will be fortified as an outpost.

20. Reports of considerable reinforcements having reached Taranaki from Sydney. Also ugly rumours of what the natives are proposing. I do hope we shall receive 2 or 3 regiments from India before the present differences increase to positive warfare.

22. A very full Church this morning but in the afternoon there were but few in consequence, I presume, of a public meeting having been called on the village green, to take measures for the erection of two batteries for the defence of Howick!

26. I called on the Bishop yesterday: he is very angry with the Governor for bringing about this native war; every-body seems anxious - the very fact of there being an insecurity to life and property will throw the Colony back fearfully.

28. A sad report rife today of 150 settlers surrounded in a stockade by a thousand Maories - and in great danger of all being killed. In the midst of all this inquietude I am contemplating two projects -the enlargement of my Church and the establishment of a Book Club.

1 May. Obtained already about 16 members to my proposed Book club.

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THE TRAVELLERS' REST

5. There seems more and more certainty of war; the Militia are being called out and there will soon be 4000 civilians under arms, beside soldiers. Poor Maories, what numbers will perish.

28 June. Last Sunday I had to go to my newly appointed sphere of duty in the Papakura Flats. I started on Jessie on Friday morning carrying with me a change of linen in case of getting very wet. I was however fortunate in my ride, reaching Mr Wheeler's farm, a mile and a half beyond the village of Papakura, as they were in the midst of Dinner, of which I gladly took my share. I left their hospitable house and rode four miles to an Inn called the Travellers' Rest, kept by a "character" by name Benjamin Smith - a short, stout strong man with a great beard and bushy whiskers. He received me with great respect and soon placed before me a capital tea with a very tempting hot beef steak. Shortly after tea mine host entered and entertained me for an hour and better, with some of his adventures in California among the gold diggers.

After breakfast next morning, leaving Jessie at the Inn, I started on my pastoral visits and visited by four o'clock eight different families, most of them living considerable distances apart but all in a very beautiful valley - called "the Flats" - surrounded as it is throughout its whole length (almost 8 miles) with high wooded land; in breadth the valley averages about two miles.

Within a quarter of a mile of the Travellers' Rest the new Church-schoolhouse has been built, a very neat place with a porch at the west end and a chancel at the east. It is situated on a knoll so as to be visible up and down the valley. I had many more visits to make but it was growing dusk, so I hastened to the Inn, mounted Jessie and rode 4 miles through a magnificent Forest to Mr Thorp's. After a good tea had a pleasant chat with the family - a large one - viz. Mr and Mrs Thorp, Mr and Mrs Brown (Mrs B. was a Miss Thorp),

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JUNE-JULY 1860

Miss Thorp, and five grown up sons: ten in all. Mr Browne 73 was formerly at St John's College, Cambridge.

On Sunday most of the family walked with me to the Presbyterian meeting house, a large room with four long sash windows, two on each side, and a very long, narrow sash window on each side of the doorway, immediately opposite to which at the other end of the room was a small dais: here I stood and said the Prayers: the only party in the congregation who seemed to join in them being the Thorps - they however kept finding the places out in the Prayer book for the Presbyterian neighbours.

8 July. Mr Blackburn the Head Master of St John's College came over to do my duty and I went to West Tamaki to take his. The College Chapel is quite a gem: it would be a show piece in England - here it is considered very grand. I called upon the Haultains: Colonel Haultain (no longer Captain) seems to think affairs with the natives were looking very serious and that Colonel Gold should be recalled.

11. The English have been thoroughly beaten by the Maories in a pitched battle close to Taranaki. The Natives are exulting: I feel ashamed to look a Maori in the face.

16. Had a long ride this afternoon visiting some of my more distant parishioners: met one of my neighbours returning from drill - he belongs to the cavalry; dress is a blue serge shirt with a belt round the waist - corduroy knee breeches - high top boots: a sword on one side, a minie rifle on the other, and a colt's revolver in the belt. Altogether he looked very soldierlike and formidable; there is a corp of 120, making a strong company.

23. All the coloured prints which come in the Illustrated London News I paste upon mill board and hang them up in the Nursery to the great delight of the children. Seven we have hung up in the sitting-room of the cottage the Heaths inhabit, I have named Woodcliff Cottage. A week ago might

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THE HEIR OF WOODCLIFF

be read a written paper hanging up against the verandah post of the village shop headed thus:

WOODCLIFF

A Quantity of ditching--about 130 chain--is required to be made on the Woodcliff estate; the ditch is to be 4 feet wide and 2 feet deep, and the bank is to have 5 sods. Parties desirous of under-taking this work can obtain further particulars by applying to: Thomas Heath: Woodcliff Cottage.

The result of this advertisement is that Heath has today set on four parties of two men each - they having agreed to divide the whole quantity into 4 portions and to do it at six shillings a chain. Alluding one day to The Heir of Redclyffe Blannie said, smiling and nodding towards Charlie, "We might now call him the Heir of Woodcliff". Charlie did not hear her or it might have made him a little more uppish than he is apt to be.

3 January 1861. Drove into Town with Mrs Rookes and Blannie: left the former at her house. On our way back called at the College for Mr Kingdon's magic lantern, one which cost £30 (!!), fitted with dissolving views.

4. Busy decorating the School-room for this evening's school feast. The children mustered about 3 o'clock. I had ordered £1 worth of buns (300) and neighbours sent cakes - 7 in all. So we had more than enough. The feast was a great success, the eating and playing and sight seeing (viz. magic lantern) giving great satisfaction. The Kingdons left the Seddons, and came to our house.

8. Mr Kingdon finished a very capital [plan] of the proposed enlargement of Howick Church.

Called at the Deanery 74 to [show] the Bishop the proposed alteration which met his decided approval. The front will be removed from the east end to the west: a south aisle will be added to the nave and continued along the south side of the chancel, which portion of the aisle will form a

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JANUARY-APRIL 1861

vestry and a clergyman's family seat; where the font now stands a lectern will be placed.

29 March. Unpleasant news from Taranaki - the English and the Maories have come into collision and the Maories have not been beaten, which to them is as good as a Victory. The disaffected party will increase but I hope the dispute will be confined to Taranaki.

1 April. Yesterday after the afternoon Service went to the Trices' to an Evening Cottage Lecture. I slept there and tried to get to the Forest to call on the outsettlers but Trice's horse would not pass a creek and I had to return.

On my arrival home found the village in a state of great excitement about the natives, who are arming to fight against and expel the English!! The immediate fear was from a report that upwards of 50 of them had encamped on the beach at the Mungamungaroa Creek and were building a pah and would then attack the village. I laughed at the report and said I had seen some few natives up that creek both on Sunday and today, but they seem merely a fishing party - however there is a deal of fear and alarm abroad.

5. As I was passing Mr Mason's house this morning on Ginger, to ride down the creek to return him to Mr Trice, Mr Mason stopt me and said he had been in Town the day before and that the news was very serious and alarming: that every-one was to be armed and form either voluntary rifle corps or Yeomanry Cavalry corps in the Militia: that a general rising of the natives was expected and that all women and children would be desired to move within certain "lines of defence". He asked me to enquire of Trice as to which force he would belong, the cavalry or the rifles. When I saw Trice and told him the news and asked him the question, he said he would not belong to either force, for he verily believed it was "all bosh" - he having the greatest possible confidence in the natives. When I told Mr Mason this, he said: "As he pleases, but now he will be forced to serve in

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CONTINUAL ALARMS

the Militia, for every man will be compelled to join in one or the other of the forces."

9. During the past week we have been in continual alarms and the talk everywhere and with every-one has been about stockades and redoubts and guns and rifles and cavalry and militia: there is, I am sorry to say, a desire on the part of many Europeans to force on a war with the natives, knowing that ultimately the latter must be exterminated and that therefore the quicker will the whole country be opened up for occupation by Europeans. Our life seems quite changed: we are living with things packed up for a moment's start and with our plate already buried for the sake of concealment.

10 May. My dear Eliza - I find that if I defer writing a letter to you or Anne till the time the mail leaves I am liable not to write at all - so I have determined to fall back again - once more! - to my original plan of a diary, as by this plan I am pretty sure of having something to send both you and Anne once a month; besides which I can mention many things about the children while they are fresh in the mind: so having finished a sheet to Anne last night I begin this to you tonight.

11. A large Camp is being formed at Otahuhu - 2000 men will soon be located there. It is generally supposed that the Government fully intends to attack the Waikatoes - if so, who can tell the result? It will bring the war into this Province: that alone is very alarming.

13. Walked through to the mouth of the Wairoa to bury a little child 75 - the first interment in our new burial ground there: the Chapel is being built. I reached the spot at 11 but the funeral did not make its appearance till 1.

16. Mr Seddon declares he heard the band quite distinctly yesterday while in his garden. Now the new camp between Otahuhu and Panmure must be three miles off as "the crow flies": he says he could distinguish the fifes! I must take

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MAY-JUNE 1861

Charlie over to see it - 200 soldiers encamped in the open country must form an animated scene.

21. Sad news from the Waikato - the Natives becoming so excited that the Europeans there are thinking of withdrawing and coming to Auckland.

8 June. Charlie and Martin went with Miss Haselden 76 to Cockle Bay to see Turner screen cockle shells for a man who promises to come once a fortnight for a boat load (to make lime). He offers me £2 a load provided I cart them and screen them for him. Should he keep to his word, it will be converting a (to me) useless bank of cockle shells into a very useful sum of money.

16. Mr and Mrs John Wilson were at Church in the morning and stayed and had dinner with us. He gave very dismal accounts of the state of affairs with the natives - he says we are drifting into a war as fast as the weather will allow.

17. The Major sent for three kegs of gunpowder which I had been keeping for him under my store room: I was thankful to have them removed from my premises. The Clergyman's house would be the last place the natives would think of searching for powder and arms - so it was, I dare say, safe enough in my custody: but three kegs, each keg weighing more than I could lift, was a quantity I did not quite like to have on my premises.

The native Deacon, Revd Joshua Te Moanaroa, called in the afternoon on his way from Waiheke and staid Tea and slept.

18. Joshua left after breakfast. Last night I tried to teach him chess - he was very quick in learning the moves. He talks English very imperfectly but I believe can read the Greek Testament easily. I hope he will call as often as he has to pass through on his route from Waiheke to Auckland.

Blannie enjoyed a ride on Hine with Mr Seddon and Miss Anlezark this afternoon: just as they were starting they met

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POWDER AND SHOT

the General and his staff, come to inspect the country around Howick and between here and the Wairoa. On dit the natives are selling every thing they have for any money, for the sake of having the wherewithal to buy powder and shot - of which the French and Americans, it is reported, are supplying them. The French and American vessels sail slowly along the coast 3 or 4 miles off, and the canoes paddle out and buy the powder and shot and guns.

23. There is a report that at last the Government intends to send troops to Howick, otherwise we must have retired "within the line" and then all our property left behind would have been utterly lost to us. The Thames natives are preparing to attack Howick directly the English attack the Natives on the Waikato. If we have 300 soldiers they will not come but if we are unprotected there will be nothing to save poor Howick from destruction: it would be a dreadful blow to us. My farm, which just begins to pay, if left alone will next year be a sensible advantage to us - is it not disheartening when the estate is just in this hopeful condition to look forward to the cottage and sheds being burnt - the cattle and sheep driven away - the hedges levelled and the crops spoilt? Yet this is what happened to all the farms at Taranaki.

16 July. I am curious to know how dear Blannie enjoyed her first grand public party - for yesterday she was to "come out" at the Government House At Home. 77

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AUGUST-NOVEMBER 1861

4 August. The great news of the week has been the announcement that Sir George Grey is coming to supersede Colonel Gore Browne: the mere report produced a magical effect - property they said "went up" 50 per cent! There is now the best prospect of Peace - the Natives are delighted.

5. Drove Blanche and Blannie to Auckland to attend an At Home, the last Mrs Gore Browne will give. We took up our quarters at the Windsor Castle and at 1/2 past 7 set off for Government House which we reached at 8 o'clock, the hour at which the Governor and Mrs Gore Browne wish their guests to arrive. Blanche and Blannie were dressed exactly as they were at the last At Home.

There must have been about 300 present but the rooms being very large they were not inconveniently crowded. Blannie danced a fair number of times; her dress was torn by being caught in the spur of an artillery officer, but on the whole she enjoyed herself, as did Blanche - and I suppose I should add myself also.

12. Attended the Police Court to watch a case my man Heath has against two very troublesome boys in the village who have been stealing and selling fire wood from my land. The Magistrate was going to send them to prison for a month, but on my interceding, they were let off with a week's imprisonment with hard labour.

20. In a ride yesterday I met Mr Albyn Martin who surprised me by declaring that the dissatisfaction felt by a large body of the Laity towards the Bishop and almost all of the Clergy, for siding with the Maories, was so deep and encreasing that he thought it would end in an alarming secession from our Body.

10 November. Peccavi 78 Six weeks! and I have omitted my journal. My conscience smites me and my sisters grumble. So to satisfy the one and silence the others I herewith resume my pen.

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A MILITARY DEMONSTRATION

12. On my way from Town I rode round by Kohimarama and had tea with Bishop Patteson and Mr Pritt, his Presbyter, and Mr Dudley who will soon be his Deacon, and upwards of 30 Melanesians. There was also present Gilbert Christian, a very handsome youth of 18, one of the Pitcairn Islanders given to the Melanesian Mission by the inhabitants of Norfolk Island during Bishop Patteson's recent visit there. The Bishop will now train him for Missionary work and should the intention be so blessed that it can be fully carried out, this Gilbert Christian (and the Marcy Quintal our Bishop has had in training now these three years back) will be most invaluable additions to Bishop Patteson's staff of Missionary Clergy, because they will be so much better able to stand the Tropics than Englishmen.

21 December. Rode to town - heard that the soldiers, 2000 strong, had received orders to leave the camp at Otahuhu and march towards the Waikato! The object put forward in the Maori and English proclamation announcing to the public this move is that of completing the road to the river through the land in the possession of the government, but as the artillery go also it seems a very military demonstration. The papers will tell you that the Natives seem much more disposed for peace than they have been for a long time past.

25. Christmas Day. We had a fine plate of cherries at breakfast and the Christmas presents were distributed to the children's great delight, so our festival began happily in the house but outside the weather was very stormy. While the bell was ringing Mr Melrose came to the vestry to inform me that Eliza was dead. I was very much shocked, the more so when he said it was from scarlet fever. After he had left I went towards home for something I had left behind and met Blannie, weeping. I was greatly astonished and imagined something dreadful had happened to Charlie who had had one attack at breakfast time - but no, she had just heard from Melrose of Eliza's death. From her attendance at the school she had become fond of the girl and was cut up at the unexpected tidings. I entreated her to check her tears

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DECEMBER 1861-JANUARY 1862

else the congregation would think something unpleasant had happened at home, but at the same time I could not but honour her for her feelings.

The afternoon was fine and the dear children were happy enough and wished there were two or three Christmas days every year. We had our usual dinner - roast beef, plum pudding, cherry pie and custards.

28. Victoria 79 returned to the intense satisfaction of us all but especially of Edith who is very fond of the girl and missed her greatly. She was fortunately at home when the troops marched through Drury on their way to the Waikato, so she saw a very pretty sight: 2500 men in heavy marching order, a large troop of horse artillery and an immense number of commissariat carts could not fail of producing a fine effect along the country-side.

2 January 1862. A Mrs Dillon Bell 80 and family are staying in lodgings in the village for a few weeks for change of air - the younger children have the hooping cough - but two boys, Charlie and Martin's age and size, are free from that complaint so Blanche asked them, Harry and Alfred, to join Charlie and Martin in a picnic this afternoon in the forest.

I put Jessie in the cart, and Charlie had his pony, Tommy. Vic, Anne, Edith, Martin, Harry and Alfred and I were in the cart; the boys took turn about with the pony. We went about 4 miles: Edith's first introduction to the forest. While the boys enjoyed themselves Vic and I got the kettle to boil and spread the tea, Edith and Annette looking on delightedly. We had a good cake, a plate of biscuits, a plate of very fine figs from our own garden, ditto of cherries, and ditto of strawberries - tea, milk and sugar. So we did very well and the children had a happy evening of it.

5. Dear Blanche was confined this morning: we have another boy. 81 I have hardly seen him, but the nurse says -

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A VERY TRAGICAL WEEK

of course she does - it is a very fine boy. Edith and Annette were wonderfully taken with the idea of another baby. Edith was very eloquent on the subject, saying that she would give him all her old clothes - and she would have new ones - and calling herself no longer a baby but "a poor broken baby". She evidently conceived herself supplanted by the new arrival and classed herself with their old thrown aside and broken doll.

The messenger whom I despatched on horseback to Auckland for Dr Kinderdine [Kenderdine] started at past 5 and the doctor was in our house, in time, before ten o'clock; a very rapid journey to and fro in less than 5 hours.

19. The last week has been a very tragical one. On Monday I took the four younger children and two of the Superintendent's boys, and Victoria, across the creek to Mr Trice's where we walked over his farm and had tea, returning early to Howick. On our way back we heard that a Howick man had shot himself and when we reacht home I heard that three men, Feelan, Garrity and Moore, were supposed to have been drowned. They went out to sea on Sunday forenoon in a very unsafe boat to fish and have not returned. On Tuesday I went down to the Gentles' to hear further particulars (Feelan and Garrity married two sisters of Mrs Gentles'). The poor wives were in great distress, and Moore's only sister: they were all formerly in my school. On Wednesday several parties were out searching. I spent all the morning walking along the sea shore and on returning home to dinner found Mr Thorp's eldest son waiting for me to go at once to the Wairoa to bury his mother, she having died very early that morning.

In addition to these casualties a man has been thrown from his cart and killed, and last Friday - the hottest day we have had this summer - two men fell down. One was picked up dead, the other insensible, but he recovered - six deaths in six days! An alarming record for so small a community.

20. This morning four boats went out searching for the missing men; after tea Charlie rode down to the beach for some

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JANUARY-MARCH 1862

sand for his ducks. On his return he told us one of the boats came in while he was there and had brought Moore's body - but Feelan and Garrity they had not discovered.

I went to Gentles' house soon after the cart had taken the body there, to try to allay the excessive wailing these Irish women always make when in trouble - you might almost call it a howling. I heard it as I approacht the house, a full quarter of a mile off.

8 March. Took Hine to Drury - it was a long ride for her, 50 miles - and it was a long journey for me, but I was anxious to see poor Viccy [Cossey] once more. She was insensible and groaning loudly with constant pain. I remained with her three or four hours and then went to the camp to see if one of the Army Surgeons would go and see her. Her mother seemed quite reconciled to her expected death and thankful I had brought her daughter home to die.

11. Drove into Town - at Newmarket pulled up at Viccy's aunt and learnt that the poor girl died on Sunday evening. She was to be buried today. Poor Vic, three weeks ago so full of apparent health and so happy with my children: we feel her loss greatly.

28. Went (on Charlie's pony) to the Wairoa by way of Papakura. Started after Breakfast and reacht the Hamlins' about 5 o'clock, very hungry having gone without dinner, but I expected Mrs Hamlin would be sure to let me sit down to her husband and sons' late meat tea in the kitchen as I had done on former occasions - but to my disgust she made me a "best parlour" guest and I had tea out of her best china and a few slices of thin bread and butter and a small piece of rich cake, soon after which I heard the men come in and sit down in the adjoining room to some savoury fried bacon and, I doubt not, good hunches of bread and large mugs of tea - and I wished, but wished in vain, I was one of them.

29. Fortunately for me I was permitted to join the kitchen party at breakfast and consequently got some slices of salt beef, potatoes and plenty of bread and made a substantial

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LIGHTED BY GAS

meal which, as I had next to nothing the rest of the day till I reacht the Thorps' at 6 in the evening, was of importance.

13 May. Last Friday I took Charlie to town: that evening we went to the New Zealander printing office and Charlie had the pleasure of seeing the newspaper printed and all the establishment lighted by Gas - the first he had seen: we slept at the Windsor Castle.

On Saturday I took him to the new aviary at Government House and introduced him to a large collection of English birds - Goldfinch - Bullfinch - Greenfinch - Partridges - Starlings - Thrushes, &c., and last but not least interesting to me, some Sparrows. Before we left town I took him to the steam factory where doors, windows, chairs, &c., are all done by machinery: this sight delighted him very much.

Overtaking a heavily laden Maori whom I recognised as living at Maraiti [Maraetai], I bade him put his baggage into my cart and promised to take it safe to Howick. This afternoon while I was out with Blanche this Maori brought me, as a return for my kindness in carrying his goods so far for him, a large new kit of very fine kumeras - a very acceptable present and an unexpected instance of native gratitude.

31 July. A long gap in my journal - weather still most miserable. Last week I went my usual monthly trip into the Bush. While at Dr Hale's I was weatherbound for two days and the road through the forest being impassable for horses I was compelled to perform the whole journey on foot.

On Sunday afternoon there was a meeting respecting the management of the School. This detained me till it was almost dark, too late to reach the edge of the forest - so I determined I [would] go to Mr Hamlin's, whose house being in the open run I could not well miss.

Now on a previous occasion I went there late one evening after a hard day's work, which I had spent like this Sunday without any dinner, Mrs Hamlin kept me in the excess of her politeness in the parlour by myself, and refreshed me with tea and beautifully thin slices of bread and butter while her

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JULY-SEPTEMBER 1862

husband and the rest of the family were in the kitchen regaling themselves on a plentiful supply of hot potatoes and rashers of bacon which smelt very inviting to me, all alone in the Parlour with my genteel bread and butter.

Remembering, I say, all this I took care on Sunday evening to ride up to the Kitchen door and dismounted there, and directly the door was opened out streamed a delightful smell of something exceeding good - so I was bolder than I liked to be on the previous occasion and said at once: "Oh, I have had no dinner and am exceeding hungry and am lucky to come in time for something that smells so good." It proved to be a hot roast fowl with a good pudding of stuffing inside it - and though Mrs Hamlin seemed shocked at my sitting down in the kitchen with their farm man at the lower end of the table, I determinedly kept my place for I inwardly dreaded the thin slices of bread and butter and must own, did wish to partake of the hot potatoes and roast fowl. Mr Hamlin, a plain honest man who likes to smoke his pipe after tea in the kitchen and who, on my former visit, seemed somewhat uncomfortable at having to forgo his pipe to sit in state with me after tea in the Parlour, evidently approved of my joining the family and took care that I had a good supply of potatoes and fowl.

11 August. Returned this evening from my Turanga Creek journey - fortunately I had it fine overhead but the roads, particularly the forest track were frightfully bad. I am now trying to get erected a cottage adjoining the Chapel-Schoolhouse for the Schoolmaster. Though the cost is but little, some £50, the people are so struggling with all the difficulties of an early settlement, that I shall have great difficulty in raising this amount in the Turanga Creek district.

7 September. A long gap since I last wrote. The weather has become very fine and I am thankful to say the Bishop has at last determined to consecrate our Church and Burial ground: he is coming to Howick on Sunday next.

15. Yesterday was a Red Letter day for Howick - a day

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THE CINDERELLA

long to be remembered. I had left on Saturday afternoon to take the Bishop's Sunday duty at the Camp, otherwise he could not have come. I left Blannie busy getting the Church ready and some of the Pensioners had sent some pretty flowers with which she decorated the Church. Sunday turned out a brilliant day and the Church was crowded: the Bishop came early; he consecrated the Church Burial ground and confirmed - it was a long and interesting Service.

Last Friday Charlie, Fanny Martin, Georgianna Peacocke and myself rode to Turanga Creek to fix upon the site of the new residence for the Schoolmaster. Just before starting I wrote a note to Georgianna telling her we were going a ride and offering her the use of Jessie if she would accompany us. I knew from experience that unless I did this Mrs Peacocke, though Cousin to the Marquis of Waterford and although they have 4 times as many horses as myself, would have raised a host of difficulties about her daughter's ride - as it was, the invitation was at once accepted, and she rode Jessie and I took Hine. We had a very pleasant ride and Georgie assured me that she had exceedingly enjoyed herself - she is passionately fond of horse exercise but during their residence in Howick she has had but three rides, two of which I have taken her. We pity Georgianna - she is the Cinderella of the Peacocke family.

10 November. Went my usual round, first to Turanga and from thence to Maraiti. The Schoolmaster's house is not only built but inhabited, for I have succeeded in obtaining Mr Charles Haselden's services as Master. He is Miss Haselden's brother, is a married man and has one child, a boy a year old. 1 think myself fortunate in securing him for this post. I rode up there from the Trices' again today and was glad to find the school well attended.

21. Proceeded to Town. Called upon Mrs Selwyn: went to the Cathedral Library and saw the model of the proposed Campaline 82 for the peal of bells which may be even now on their way hither.

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NOVEMBER-DECEMBER 1862

Mr Heywood, 83 the Bishop's Secretary, showed me a plan that the Bishop had just matured for establishing a Church Insurance company, if I may so call it, or if there can be a company without shareholders. His plan is that the Church property should be insured by the Manager of the Fund for the support of Widows and Orphans of the Clergy, and that all profits accruing from such insurances should go towards the support of these Widows and Orphans of the Clergy instead of, as at present, towards increasing the dividends of the shareholders of the New Zealand Insurance Company.

While in town the mail came in: the news of the Confederate victories was received with universal satisfaction.

23. The four chapel-schoolhouses - viz. Wairoa, Wairoa Road, Papakura and Drury - being now completed, the Bishop (or the Primate as he is beginning to be called, as being the first of the New Zealand Bishops, and also to distinguish him from Bishop Patteson, when speaking of the two) was anxious to settle a clergyman in their district to take the oversight of the four churches.

29. Soon after breakfast a Mr Allies called upon me with a request that I would go to his house this afternoon to baptise his child: he promised to come for me. I paid two pastoral visits before dinner, shortly after which Mr Allies came. He brought his boat for me and I had a delightful row down the Wairoa, which I thought I had never seen looking better. The tide was in and the river was full and the trees in blossom and the wild birds abundant. I enjoyed the row exceedingly.

After the christening Mr Allies' nearest neighbours, Mr and Mrs Browne and their son Henry, came in to tea: we had a tin of preserved salmon and lettuces with tea. I walked back by a new road lately formed along the side of the Wairoa.

6 December. My man Heath and his wife have had a fright today. A bush man came in with some fire wood and when he had unladen his boat he asked Tommy Heath - a lad about

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TWO BOYS ADRIFT

8 - to watch it for him but not to get into it: it was tied up to one of the piles of our wharf. When the man had left Tommy got into the boat and untied the ropes - and Tommy and boat went out at once adrift, the tide ebbing and the wind blowing off shore.

His elder brother, Billy, happened to go down to the beach just as Tommy was going to sea: he rushed in and waded up to his chin but could not seize hold of the drifting boat. Whereupon he came back, jumped into another boat - rather a large one - and pulled off: came up to his brother whom he took on board but in doing so unfortunately lost his oar. So both boats went away whither the tide and wind carried them. Melrose, who lives on the beach, watched them through a glass - the empty boat went floating away towards Waiheki [Waiheke] and at last he lost sight of it. The boat with Billy and Tommy in it drifted against the flat island Motukaka [Motukaraka: Clarke's Island] and there remained stationary but being 6 or 7 miles off he could not distinguish them.

There not being another small boat at Howick, Heath had to go two miles to borrow one, so some time elapsed ere a couple of Howick lads could go off after the two boys. In the afternoon Heath engaged a small cutter to take him across to Waiheki to see what had become of his boys - at 8 o'clock I rode up to the farm - there had been no tidings of any of the missing ones. On my return home Blanche asked Mrs Cole to go down to the farm and sit with Mrs Heath, as she was so very down hearted.

7. The boys got on shore between 1 and 2 o'clock this morning. The young man who picked them up off the flat island had gone on to Waiheki in search of the lost boat which they came upon just as some Natives were making it fast off their Kainga. These Natives promised to take care of it and gave the four some food, then they returned.

Heath, however, in the cutter has not come back. The weather broke early this morning and it is windy and wet. What an amount of anxiety and fatigue and expense has

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DECEMBER 1862-JANUARY 1863

resulted from Tommy's act of disobedience. I hope his father will whip him for it.

25. A splendid day but too hot: 85 degrees in the shade. The Churchwarden, Mr Seddon, highly commended the decorations. Mr and Mrs Charles Haselden and child, Miss Haselden and Miss Wilks were our guests: our dinner was a forequarter of mutton, two fowls and a ham (all the produce of our own farm), potatoes from our garden, peas and a salad bought from the village, a plum pudding - pronounced superlatively good - cherry pie and custards.

28. According to arrangement Miss Helen Hamlin came to the Wairoa Road Church ready to leave with me after Service for Howick: she came therefore in her riding habit. We had a pleasant ride through the forest - the whole of the route being new to her. At the Tebbutts' we each got a tumbler of raspberry vinegar and water. We got home about nine o'clock - not dark for there was the brightest of moons.

30. Our School feast: the children mustered strong and early, the Church bell rang and they walked two and two into Church, when we had a short Service. Thence we walked in procession to a beautiful glen near Howick and had a picnic. While the boys were bathing and the girls were listening to tales read to them by Miss Anlezark and Blannie, I and Mrs Melrose got tea ready. We mustered a large party and all went off very satisfactorily. After tea the children played till it was getting dark when they assembled for another cup of tea and to finish the cakes, then all - boys, girls, Mothers and Guests - stood up and sang the Evening Hymn, after which we dispersed and got home as quickly as we could. Helen seemed to have enjoyed the feast as much as anyone.

5 January 1863. Blannie and I took Helen home. We went by way of the Great South Road through Papakura: it was a long and hot ride and the ladies were glad enough when we reached the Hamlins'. After a good rest we three walked (Blannie divested of her cloth riding habit and adorned with sundry showy garments of Mrs Hamlin's) to Captain and

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HEAVY GUNS FIRING

Mrs Calvert where I stayed the night, but the two girls returned to the Hamlins'. The Calverts are late people: it was past twelve before I could get off to bed.

17. A report has just reached Howick that a quarter of Auckland is burnt down: probably this is an exaggerated account. Blanche, Blannie, Charlie and Martin have gone next door to see a magic lantern sent to Fitzroy Peacocke from England; it is exhibited for the first time this evening. Half the village have gone too.

19. I rode to Otara for the first time: held Service in an unfinished building - stone and brick - which a Mr Smale 84 who had been excommunicated by the Wesleyan Society built just before he left New Zealand for England, as a peace offering to the Society, in the hope he might be reinstated as one of their preachers - and ever since the building has remained unfinished and unused. Mr Smale's farm is now occupied by a tenant, a Churchman, and until I can get a place belonging to ourselves at Otara, he has placed it at my disposal. I had about 35 present at this Service: an encouraging beginning.

20. Drove Blanche and Charlie and Martin to Auckland. The late fire has cleared away the houses from about one acre of ground. They were wooden houses and must by law be replaced by brick and stone.

21. The half yearly meeting of the Parishioners this evening: the Churchwardens accounts were sent in and allowed. £37. 10. 0 were voted to me and nine pounds voted for painting the Parsonage.

9 February. Yesterday afternoon as I was riding over the ranges on my way back [from] Turanga Creek I was startled by hearing the heavy guns firing, evidently at Auckland - and listening, noted they were minute guns. Being Sunday I was much puzzled as to what had happened. Was the Queen dead? Or Sir George Grey? Nobody could say, but all seemed surprized at the firing of the guns. This afternoon, however, the newspaper told us the melancholy cause

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FEBRUARY-MAY 1863

- on Saturday the Orpheus, a large war steamer, was wrecked in crossing the bar of the entrance to the Manukau harbour, about 26 miles from Onehunga, and the Commodore and 200 of his men perished. Though not 35 miles from Auckland it was 12 hours before the sad news was known in that city and more than 48 hours before we in Howick heard anything about it.

16. Rode on Hine to Otara: the little Wesleyan building was nearly full, more than 50 souls were present. After service I accompanied the Martins to their house and staid tea. To my great satisfaction Mrs Martin began on the subject of building a chapel-schoolhouse for ourselves, objecting evidently to assemble in the present dissenters' building. Of course I cordially agreed with her and shall not now let the matter rest till we can worship in our own House.

12. May. This same afternoon the news reacht town that the Maories at Taranaki had laid an ambush and fired upon a party of soldiers (80 in number) and killed 8 of them: this news cast a gloom over the whole town and everybody predicted an immediate renewal of the war. On reaching Howick I called on Major Peacocke and gave him the sad news.

Went to Turanga Creek: the Chapel was but thinly attended, the School however is flourishing and Haselden seems more comfortably settled, having his cows, pigs and fowls now about him. I slept at the Tebbutts' and got back to the Haseldens' to dinner on Monday and spent three hours examining the children.

Just as the school was closed I was surprised to see Charlie ride up on his pony. He alarmed and grieved me my telling us there was a report general throughout the village on Saturday afternoon that the Bishop had fallen down in a fit and died. This sad news was firmly believed by Blanche, Miss Anlezark and the Peacockes till Mr and Mrs Seddon returned on Monday afternoon from Town - when the very first words he said were: "The Report is not true - the Bishop is

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TALK OF THE TOWN

alive and well." He said it was on Saturday evening and Sunday morning the talk of the Town, and everybody believed it. He, however, had seen and spoken to his Lordship that very morning. Was it not a wonderful report? So very strange! But Auckland is the most gossiping city on the face of the earth, I verily believe.

20. On Sunday went in the afternoon to Otara. Sir George Arney and the Martins were present; they expected me to return with them to tea but I told them I had to ride on to Papakura to be ready to marry a couple in the bush the following morning: Mr Martin "hoped I should not find that the Maories had carried off the bride"!

The settler's house I had to go to... [MS. torn], an old acquaintance of mine, having lived formerly in the Turanga Creek district; and his eldest girl, Anne, who was to be married, I had once in my village school and prepared for confirmation a year ago. The bridegroom was a Howick young man - Walter White - so I was no stranger to them nor they strangers to me.

We had a long ride of eight miles through a very dense forest and at last emerged into an open country and about a mile across this open plain John Hill had built his cottage. This certainly is the most isolated solitary abode I have yet seen. The house was a comfortable one - a verandah in front, a large kitchen (sitting-room), two bedrooms and a lean-to behind. I married the young people a little after 12 o'clock and then we all sat down to a cold dinner, pigeons and tongue: the Feast was to be in the evening.

I left about 2 and in returning through the forest met three different parties of neighbours making their way to the cottage to join in the dance and merry making, with which I presume they will pass the whole of the night.

29. The morning being a little more promising than yesterday I determined to start for the Wairoa. Mr Browne had asked me to procure for him a little servant girl to mind the Baby - I had procured Ellen Wood, a girl of ten years of age, and I started on Charlie's pony with Ellen sitting behind

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MAY 1863

me: it was a very slow journey for I could not, of course, travel faster than a walk.

When I reached the Thorps' and had put poor Tommy into a paddock, I started on foot with Ellen to take her to the Brownes' but had not gone a mile before we were stopped by someone coming after us, and shortly after Mr Browne overtook us. So I gave Ellen up to him and gladly returned to the Thorps' where I spent the evening. It seems that Mr Browne on his way home from Town called at Beckby a few minutes after Ellen and I had left and, Miss Thorp telling him of this, he at once ran after us.

30. At breakfast I missed George Thorp, the youngest son, a youth of about 16 who stands 6 feet 2 in his stockings. I asked where he was - Joseph said he had gone off to look for my pony! I learnt that during the night one of their horses, a powerful and vicious animal, had broken into the paddock where I left Tommy and had had a desperate fight with him - so much so that the noise they made had wakened Joseph, but he did not bestir himself and the consequence is that this morning their horse is still here but - Tommy is nowhere visible.

Before breakfast was over George came back not having seen any traces of the pony. After breakfast Joseph went off on horseback to look after him. I prepared for Service in the Church: the attendance was good - the singing would be better if they contented themselves with more simple psalmody but they try anthems and attempt more than they can do well. The offertory amounted to 16s. 10d.

No tidings of the missing pony when Service was over, so the Thorps lent me one of their horses and I rode to the Wairoa Road Church: there too the congregation was pretty good. The offertory came to 6/2d. I told every one I saw of my loss of Tommy in order that if seen they might know to whom it belonged and bring it to the Thorps'.

After Service I rode to Captain Calvert's and had dinner - then to the Coopers' to engage lodgings for the Schoolmistress - secured very comfortable lodgings with board at

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A MISERABLE NIGHT

10/0 per week. Thence I returned to the Thorps' - no tidings of poor Tommy - I begin to fear we shall find him tomorrow, dead in some ditch; the horse that attacked him is, compared to him, as an elephant to a donkey. The only chance of his life would be trusting to his heels and running away - and the question is, did he do so?

1 June. Passed a miserable night - whether it was Captain Calvert's dinner - roast turkey, highly stuffed - or thinking about poor Charlie and how he would grieve if Tommy was really lost, I did not get to sleep till near 3 o'clock this morning. Just as I was ready to go off in search of Tommy, one of the neighbours rode up and told us he had passed him grazing on the road leading to Papakura; so I started with alacrity and after a long walk, met the lost one who, however, was so unwilling to be captured that I had much trouble in securing him. However at last I had the satisfaction of fixing my saddle and valise upon him and bade the Thorps goodbye. I took the road to the north of the river, wishing to call upon Dr and Mrs Hale: I called in upon the Brownes and saw the little maid, Ellen Wood, whom I brought from Howick on Saturday, looking happy and comfortable in her new place.

The next large farm I had to traverse (one of 2000 acres) belongs to Captain Salmon who resides in Auckland, but whose man (Edwin Roberts) lives here: as I trotted past the house Edwin begged me to come in and have dinner but I declined on the plea that I should not in that case have time to get to Dr Hale's. The next two miles were over, I was within sight of the Doctor's boundary fence when, in trying to cross a deep gully with a broad stream running through, I unfortunately let go of Tommy's rein (I had dismounted) to give him some more liberty to leap the stream, when he, instead of going forward, suddenly turned round and rushed back up the hill, and then trotted and walked all the way back to Edwin Roberts', taking care that I should not come within 20 yards of him. So when I

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JUNE-JULY 1863

reached the house I told Mrs Roberts that Tommy was determined I should dine at her house whether I liked it or not. She, of course, called him a good pony for making me her guest and forthwith laid out a capital dinner: fried fish and bread and butter and apple jam, washed down with two cups of nice tea.

To go to the Doctor's now was out of the question, so I jogged on to Waikupo Creek and had a light tea at 5 o'clock with Mr and Mrs Craik and from thence I rode to the Trices' where I begged a bed for the night. Read aloud to the Trices the last news from Taranaki - war had begun in earnest: and the English had the best of the last brush with the Maories. The troops near the Waikato are kept day and night under arms, but it is not expected that the war will be extended beyond Taranaki.

2. [I] wanting some trees for my farm, the Trices offered me as many poplars as I pleased - I dug up 50 and cut down 225 saplings: I got a man to help carry them to my farm.

19 July. The last fortnight has been the busyest, gloomiest and most exciting fortnight I have ever passed. The war has suddenly left Taranaki and broken out here - close to us. The Village is kept in a state of anxiety every night; there is patrol every night and every man you passed is armed: a stockade has been erected as a refuge for the women and children in case of a sudden attack. The rumours have been so alarming that the Seddons and Peacockes have sent in their children, and last Friday an attack was deemed so imminent that I deemed it necessary to pack off, instantly the news reacht us, Blannie, Anne, Edith, Baby and the servant girl. There was not time to make any arrangements in town so I bade her go to Mrs Selwyn and trust that she would help them to some lodging in St Stephen's School or elsewhere, but it is now Sunday evening and we have not heard a word of or from the party, poor dear ones, since we parted - and a sorrowful parting it was.

I hope to go to Auckland tomorrow and see where and how they are, and take them a sack of potatoes, some bread,

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REFUGEES AND NEIGHBOURS

meat, two fowls, butter and milk, tea, &c. - also I intend to take in a box of some of our valuables and place it, if possible, in one of the brick stores for safety. Blanche has this afternoon been packing up a large box with all the clothes we can best dispense with till the early summer, and that we hope to send in by the carrier tomorrow. Two boxes of books I have placed in the Vestry, and a small box containing the deeds of all my property I have hidden beneath the Communion Table.

Our house on several occasions within the last fortnight has been very full towards evening, refugees from the country and neighbours whose husbands were from home flocking to us for mutual society and protection. The last bit of news is that 20 of our Volunteers were killed yesterday in an engagement and one of the 20 is the son of a settler close by here: this has thrown a deep gloom over the place.

20. Drove into Town to look after poor dear Blannie and the little ones. Went to the Bishop's where to my great relief I found them all comfortably settled, Mrs Selwyn assuring me she was delighted to have them in her house though of course very grieved for the cause that drove them in. Took to a brick store the box containing our plate, jewels, &c.

23. Drove Haselden into town - he, poor fellow, to seek for a livelihood - I to see Blannie. Before we left the village I met Mr Seddon who told me that Dr Hale had arrived in the village in the middle of the night, driven off his farm by a number of Maories. This is coming so near Howick that I determined to see the Bishop and make some arrangement for Blanche and the two boys living in Auckland. Heard that the Lower Waikatoes had determined to join the rebels.

24. Sat up all last night packing things for Blanche and the boys. Started a load of things by 5 o'clock under the care of one of the Carriers, and shortly after Blanche and Martin, Mrs Haselden and little Harry, set off in my light cart under the care of Mr Haselden. So Charlie and I were left alone

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JULY-AUGUST 1863

and very busy we were all day long. He got me my dinner and then got tea in the evening entirely by himself. Altogether he was so useful and thoughtful I could not help saying to him that I should be content to remain with him alone, for he managed so well, if it were not for the opportunity now offered of his going to school: for we have settled that while the family remain in town it will be best for the two boys to attend the Grammar School as day scholars.

Haselden reports that they all reacht town well but Mamma, I find, wants a great number more things. She has 5 good sized rooms at St Stephen's placed at her disposal, one of which she appropriates for the present to Mrs Haselden and Harry. The rooms, however, are wholly unfurnished so I have furniture, &c., to send in. It is however a great thing to have empty rooms rent free, for so large a number of people have flocked into Auckland lodgings have become very high.

26. Another gloomy Sunday. Most sad news arrived of two murders committed by the Natives on settlers at the Wairoa (where I should have been today, but the forest was considered unsafe for me to travel through); both settlers I knew and one I esteemed very highly. Both had gone a little distance from their houses to drive up the cows for milking, when the natives fired at them and killed them. One, Charles Cooper, they seem to have set fire [to] after he had fallen: his death must have been instantaneous for the ball entered his temple, but his body from his legs to his chest was frightfully burnt. Whether this was done maliciously by the natives or was an accident, no one can say.

1 August. Last Monday I drove into town to see Blanche and the children. Martin has attended the Church of England Grammar School: there are upwards of 50 boys there so it was a rather nervous undertaking for the little boy the first day. The infinite advantage which I hope it may be to him reconciles me to the uncomfortableness of the separation: for

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NATIVE SIGNAL FIRES

I am alone here save Mary Anne Heath who, after her fashion, waits upon me and cooks for me.

2. The very unsettled state of the country has thinned my congregation: most came to the Church fully armed, a proceeding I thought most preposterous, but I hear the Captain of the Militia so ordered all his men, I presume to guard against a sudden attack, if the Maories thought they would be sure to catch the men at Church defenceless.

Our stockade is nearly finished: when it is completed Mrs Peacocke and Mrs Seddon intend to have their children back, but I think I shall let mine remain in town, especially since Martin has commenced schooling.

5. Our newly formed Cavalry Corps mustered and exercised today - Mr Every Maclean is Lieutenant. Our singing class which a month ago numbered generally as many as 27 has gone down to six - all our bass voices have turned soldiers and many of the females being afraid of coming out in the evening. As I came out of Church at 8 o'clock I was surprised to hear that the pickets had been doubled and on enquiry learnt that native signal fires had been seen and it was thought that the Maories were assembling for an attack; the place seems to me to be in a state of chronic alarm.

6. I am thankful to say I went to bed as usual last night and slept soundly till half past six and as I was not tomahawked during the night I rejoice that I took the course I did. The fact is, as all my neighbours will watch I think I need not - as they will keep awake I may as well go to sleep. Acting on this principle I have had but one bad night since the war commenced.

During breakfast time distinctly heard the report of cannon but probably it might be some practising at the Fort in Auckland: formerly one never noticed such a sound - now not a gun is fired or a distant report is heard without listening most painfully to catch any further noises. At 12 o'clock a Mr Shaw called upon me to accompany me over my land as I have offered to lease it to him, and I hope he will also purchase the stock.

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AUGUST 1863

The Thames Natives have joined the rebels so our position is more than before exposed, but the Government seems fully alive to our danger and the Eclipse is ordered to anchor off the mouth of the Wairoa, and I doubt not further reinforcements will be sent here. The Thames tribes are headed by an old Chief, Teria, 85 "the last of the cannibals" as he is called, being the man who was addicted to cannibalism the latest of all the Maories - a bloodthirsty wretch who, like "Thompson" 86 of the Waikatoe, declares he will spare neither the unarmed nor the weak.

7. The morning was occupied with a long Korero with Mr Shaw respecting the letting to him of my farm and the selling to him of my cattle. Now that Heath has left me and almost all farm work throughout the Province will be at a stand still, except what the Proprietors themselves can manage, and as I could not do anything there myself I may think myself fortunate in getting a tenant at all.

After dinner started on Hine for the Wairoa, the seat of the War. As I passed Mrs Frost's cottage I called to her and told her whither I was going and that I intended to look after her daughter Jane, who is in service out there. She asked me whether I was going with a Guard! On [my] saying that I was going alone and unarmed, she said: "Ah well - the Lord preserve you. I fear me I shan't never see your Reverence again." - "No fear," said I. "Goodbye." - "Good day; may the Lord preserve you." And thus I left Howick.

On my road to Otara I was struck with the complete absence of all life - no ploughing going on - no men working in the fields - everywhere there seemed a total cessation of labour: I reacht Harris's before I met anyone and then came upon a solitary lad repairing a fence. Passing through their farm I shortly met two of the young Harrises - fine, strapping young men on magnificent horses - they belong

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A LONG KORERO

to the Volunteer Cavalry and the elder of the two is the Cornet of the force. They were in their uniforms and were just returning from parade and more soldier looking men it would be almost impossible to find anywhere. I had, of course, a long Korero and then pushed on to the Great South Road: once there I thought I should have plenty of company but, excepting here and there a few people working on their farms, I saw but very few persons moving about till I came to Papatoitoi where is the first Redoubt, about 100 yards off the road on the top of some rising ground. Around about the Inn, the Half Way House, a number of the Militia were lounging about, some playing quoits, and evidently several travellers had stopped by the horses tethered around. Here is the nucleus of a future village and all seemed full of bustle and excitement, but without waiting here I pushed on towards Papakura.

The same loneliness struck me here as in the country around Howick: not a soul moving in the fields: all seemed to have fled and to have congregated in the villages and Town. The only party I passed on the road was a detachment of the Transport corps with sundry wagons, each drawn by eight bullocks, conveying baggage to the front. I was not a little pleased when I at last caught sight of Papakura.

The first building of the village one comes to on entering from Auckland is the Presbyterian Kirk: this I noticed was barricaded with three-inch planks, and the planks here and there loopholed for rifle firing from within. Knowing that poor Mrs Charles Cooper lodged somewhere close by, I stopped Hine to enquire of two women, who were with difficulty picking their way through the mud, which house she was in, when to my surprise the two proved to be Mrs C. Cooper and Miss Stanton.

I hooked Hine up and entered their lodging with them and sorry I was to see what a change the shock of her husband's murder had made in poor Mrs Cooper. It was evidently too painful a subject to dwell upon so little was said about it: but she seemed thankful to see me and to talk of her prospects and of the chances of Miss Stanton and

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herself returning to their farm - the former to reopen the school and herself to attend to her little dairy. But I fear it may be a long time ere the country is sufficiently quiet to enable two unprotected females living near the forest.

I went to the Hotel and there saw Captain Calvert who seems thoroughly broken down by the loss of his son. I soon left him for it was getting dark and as I had a mile further to ride before I could get to my friends the Wheelers I thought it best to put Hine to her best pace and, disregarding mud, to gallop on.

Mr Norry's 87 house was empty - the next was Wheeler's: what if they were gone! I had not thought of that and for a short time was somewhat anxious for I did not wish to have to retrace my steps to Papakura, every minute the darkness deepening and my road now being close to the forest: however, almost a quarter of a mile off I was reassured by hearing his dogs, who had caught the sound of Hine's gallop, commence barking and when I got within sight of the house by seeing a light.

I asked how it was that they had remained while all their neighbours had abandoned their homesteads and had taken refuge in Auckland or some of the villages. They said there were always three of them in the house - the stockade was within earshot of any firing that might take place, and they were always prepared to kill the first native that came near their place.

8. The first congratulations at the breakfast table were that the natives had not disturbed us. When I was ready to start on my journey to the Wairoa, Mr Wheeler came to his outer gate with me to point out on the ranges, Kerikeri, where the first engagement with the Maories took place.

I now saw what in the dark last night I had passed unheeded: the redoubt the Militia have formed close by Papakura. I skirted round one half of it: the ditch was deep and broad but the place inside seemed most wretchedly muddy. Thence I struck off by the Wairoa Road, a road Hine and

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YOUNG CALVERT'S DEATH

I know full well, but it was very sad to see the country without an inhabitant, every house empty - not a dog to bark at one: not a soul to say "good day" to.

Two miles from Papakura redoubt I passed another on the top of the hill, a fine healthy situation and commanding an extensive view: here two of the Howick young men who are in the Militia recognised me and ran into the road to speak to me as I was about to pass - they sent messages to their Parents and another man asked me to carry a letter for him to a friend in the Wairoa redoubt. When I reacht Ben Smith's - the Travellers' Rest - I pulled up to have a chat: his house is fortified after the fashion of the Kirk, the outside encased with 3 inch timber and where the windows are, loopholes left for firing through. This may give a feeling of security to the family but it makes the inside of the house monstrously dark and dismal.

I heard a few particulars respecting young Calvert's death which placed it in a different light - the newspapers represent it as a most unprovoked assault of the natives on an unoffending family - but from what Ben Smith told me it seems that the very day before the natives attacked the Captain's house, his son Sylvester had yoked 4 bullocks into the dray and driven it up to the abandoned native kainga, Keri Keri, in order to pillage - to steal in plain English - whatever the natives had left in their hurried departure. An old Maori woman was the sole tenant of the village and she raved at Sylvester as he went from whare to whare, selecting this thing and that and loading his dray. To get rid of her he showed her his revolver and told her if she was not quiet he would make her so. Whereupon she fled into the forest - no doubt to report to the Maories who had so recently left Keri Keri who had been there - what he had taken and what he threatened to do.

Sylvester in the meantime returned home, on his way meeting with Ben Smith's son and boasting of his good day's work. Added to this I should also mention that his father, Captain Calvert, had taken two of the natives' horses and had them in his paddock close to his house. Early next morning as

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Sylvester left his home he saw the natives, armed, coming towards him; he ran back into the house calling to his father who was not yet up - 3 natives rushed in after him, and when his father jumped out of bed it was to see his son fall at his feet, mortally wounded. In the fury of the moment the Captain seized his sword and made such an onslaught that the 3 natives were driven out of the house, and at the same instant one of them, who had been keping watch on a hill at the back of the house, called out to them to return for the soldiers were coming.

All this aggravation on the part of the Calverts - the Father making a parade of having captured two of their horses and the son deliberately pillaging their village - is suppressed by the newspapers and the Maories set down as a set of blood thirsty savages, ready to kill the first white man they see.

The road from Smith's to the Wairoa was the most dangerous - if dangerous at all, and on this point I have my doubts - of any part of my journey and certainly had I met any natives there would have been no help at hand, for the country was utter desolation till I reacht the Wairoa redoubt where there is another body of Militia. This redoubt is within a 100 yards of the Thorps' house, which is also barricaded - under these circumstances the Miss Thorps have not left their home, as almost all the other females throughout the Wairoa have.

I got a hasty dinner there and started homeward - passed Ben Smith's at a full gallop and did not pull rein till I reacht Papakura where I called upon Mrs Charles Cooper again. I also saw Mrs Hamlin: she is living in the Church together with many other women and I hear that last Sunday the Bishop held service there, one transept being piled up with bedding, the other with furniture.

10. Drove into Town. At the urgent entreaty of all I made up my mind to stay with them till tomorrow.

11. Last night had a fright on a small scale. I was first awakened by someone trying the lock of our passage door, but

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WHO GOES THERE?

I was no sooner thoroughly roused up when the party walked away - both Mrs Lush and myself hearing the footsteps quite plainly along the wooden floor of the verandah! Just as we were dozing off again we were awoke with 3 signal guns - then the trumpets sounding the alarm and at the same moment the fire bells ringing out their ominous summons as loudly as possible. Out of bed I jumped and from the window seeing only one fire, I advised Blanche to remain quiet, for as there were not 6 or 7 fires raging in 6 or 7 different parts of Auckland, I felt sure that this fire was accidental and not the long threatened conflagration of Auckland by the Natives. The fire, however, getting larger, I dressed and went out to see how matters stood.

I had not gone far when a picket of Volunteers challenged me with "Who goes there?" - "A friend," I said, and passed on - twice more on passing through Parnell did the Militia challenge me in the same way. I was glad to see the men at their posts, for it has been arranged that at any alarm certain men are to go to certain places, and thus if possible guard the town on all sides. Walked on to Princes Street, which being the highest point of the City I looked down upon the fire and ascertained it was in Queen Street and likely to be confined to a few houses.

I noticed that everybody seemed awake and up - very few indeed in the streets but in every house there was a light, which shewed that the inmates had been aroused. The Aucklanders are indeed notorious for their dread of an attack from the Natives.

13. Fifty men of the 70th marched into Howick yesterday evening and have taken up their quarters in the Redoubt.

15. Called upon the officers, Captain Ralston and Lieutenant Leake, to arrange about the men attending Church tomorrow.

20. Reports are rife in the village about the Thames Natives having at last moved - but whether hither as report says, or to Waikato as I think, remains to be seen. I have not troubled myself much about it for it is impossible to get anyone to work for you, so the last two days I have turned laborer

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and been at work in my garden putting in potatoes. Unless this is done I know not how we shall get any next summer - the troops alone will consume so many that the price of potatoes will be very high: beside which there is hardly any farming work done, so that the supply must come chiefly from abroad - hence vegetables will be at famine prices - meat is already /10d and /11d per lb. and potatoes 12 £ a ton: who can blame me therefore for spending a day or two in planting potatoes!

21. One of the most tempestuous days we have had this winter. During the morning drew out a plan of the house 88 I hope to build on an allotment I have agreed to purchase close by the Grammar School, so that if the boys can attend school they may live as near as possible.

Went once more my Wairoa journey. All much the same as when I was last there though I hear many of the Settlers are about to return to their abandoned homes: almost all who left will find their poultry and pigs, left behind, have gone; for the Militia and soldiers have pillaged the farm houses in all directions!

25 September. Started today on my usual monthly trip to the Wairoa. As there has been fighting there off and on during the past fortnight I looked forward to the witnessing of an attack during my brief sojourn there. Reacht the Redoubt at Papatoitoi - knowing that Colonel Haultain was in command, rode in and told him I had come to join him at Mess: he seemed very pleased to see me and I enjoyed the rest, and the roast beef he gave me.

Thence I pushed on to Papakura; passing through the village was surprised to see so many of the women and girls from the Wairoa - refugees - living where and how they could, crowded and hard. They told me that a week before 50 men had been sent off at nightfall from Papakura with bullock drays; had reacht Wairoa in the middle of the night and had roused up all the women and girls with the news

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A MOST BITTER HATRED

that the Government had insisted upon them leaving the district instantly, as the Natives were likely to attack the place the next day. The night was dark and wet and the roads so heavy that they could not get along faster than about 3 miles an hour so it was morning before the poor creatures reacht Papakura - and the consequence of this sudden turn out of their beds is that all of them are suffering from severe colds. The only two who refused to avail themselves of the Government's escort and drays and determined to abide at their own peril, were a Mrs MacNicholl 89 and Miss Thorp.

I visited the Calverts - the Captain has not yet been able to think calmly of the death of his son - he entertains a most bitter hatred towards the Natives for that murder. As usual I put up at my friends the Wheelers'; while at tea the very unwelcome news came in that the Natives had succeeded in driving off from a farm he has near the Waikato, 4 valuable horses valued at 225 £. This is a serious loss to the family.

26. As I passed the Redoubt at Papakura met James Wilson, who looks very well in his uniform - one of the Volunteer Cavalry Corps. He took me through the stables, sufficient for 120 horses: here I recognised two of the Howick lads, but their regular life, good living and discipline have so wonderfully improved them that I had to look twice before I was quite sure of my men.

Before I left Papakura I called upon a Mrs Wallis who was one of the party so suddenly hurried from the Wairoa the other night. She was not in a fit state to be moved and what with the fright and the fearful rough journey, she had not been half an hour in Papakura before she gave birth to a little girl. Poor thing - she was wonderfully cheerful though the Maories have pillaged her house and robbed her of all her clothes and taken away or destroyed everything she had: how thankful we should be that hitherto they have only threatened Howick.

I hurried on, but instead of passing over the hill on the top of which Ring's Redoubt is placed, I skirted round and

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struck into the ti tree 90 scrub and made a short cut to the Hamlins', for I learnt at Papakura that Mr and Mrs Hamlin and their son (about 15) had gone back to their farm. Mrs Hamlin was exceeding glad to see me; she told me of all their losses and anxieties and frights, but being within 500 yards or so of Ring's Redoubt they are now in security compared to their state before the Redoubt was built. She is making money too, by selling milk and butter, &c., to the soldiers; but they help themselves to her poultry and pigs so she has not all clear gain. Most likely they were saved from an attack by some of the party knowing that the Pakeha living in that house was brother to Mr Hamlin, the missionary and friend of the Maori.

On my way called at a Mr Golding's, at whose house Mrs Charles Cooper and the School mistress lodge: the latter thinks she must give up for there are but 5 children left, so I paid her and advised her to go to town: this was the last inhabited house till I reacht the Wairoa. All the rest were empty, not only of inhabitants but furniture, for what the Maories had not taken off the soldiers had pillaged, for strange to say our "brave defenders" think all they come across fair game and help themselves from friend and foe indiscriminately.

After a short chat with Miss Thorp I walked past the redoubt, across the Wairoa bridge to the Settlers' Stockade where I met Mr Browne who was on the point of going down the river as far as his house, to save if possible some more of his Household goods. I seized the opportunity and accompanied him: the row down the river was very pleasant but the bare idea that there was just the possibility of being fired at from behind any of the bushes along the margin of the river, made one feel slightly anxious and very watchful.

Close by Browne's landing place there was another boat with 2 men in it who were come to get away some of Mr Allies' goods - so we kept in company: all were fully armed but myself. From a hill close by they shewed me the native Pah on the opposite side, built up on a hillside surrounded

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THE MILITIA TO ARMS

by a dense forest. We loaded the boats and returned - they to the Stockade, I to my usual quarters at the Thorps'. Miss Thorp and Mrs McNicholl and myself were the sole occupants of the house. Miss Thorp must be coining money: she sells such a quantity of milk to the men.

21. The Church crowded with men, all armed. Major Lyon was called out of the service in consequence of firing being heard in the neighbourhood: Maories, I suppose, killing cattle. Overtook Revd Ashwell who had been doing duty at Drury and Papakura.

28. Dr Hale, who lives at the mouth of the Wairoa, 91 6 miles as the bee flies from the redoubt and stockade, came to Howick this afternoon saying that 200 natives had come down from the Pah to the river and that about half of them had crossed over and a considerable number seemed intent on making for his house; that thereupon he and his son had mounted their horses and galloped away to Howick.

The Major no sooner heard this than he ordered the bugles to call the militia to arms and Major Peacocke, Captain Peacocke and Ensign Peacocke (quite a family party), with about 90 men, and Captain Antrobus with 40 men, started off to meet these Maories and drive them back. On reaching the Mungamungaroa Creek, Ensign Peacocke, who has only just attained unto his first plumage, was sent back to the maternal nest, as being too young and delicate a chick to attempt so long and adventurous a flight. The rest pushed on, Captain Antrobus keeping along this side of the Turanga Creek till he reacht Kennedy's, where he and his men bivouacked for the night; Major Peacocke and his party crossed the Turanga Creek and, calling at the Trices', borrowed a horse: then, throwing his men into skirmishing order, marched off till he reacht the Waikupu Creek where he called a halt and the party prepared to pass the night. Here was an abandoned cottage and, Raleigh Peacocke forcing open one of the windows, he and his father took shelter therein while the

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rest of the men took refuge in the Byre, excepting those who were placed out to keep guard.

They had left Howick so suddenly that the whole force went supperless and therefore hungry to rest. The next morning before daylight the bugle sounded and the men mustered. Soon after some salt pork was received from Howick, but uncooked and without biscuits! So the men had a sorry breakfast, but set out in good heart to the Wairoa. The Major who is a large fat man found the steep hills very trying to his wind, but the men strode out well.

They pushed on towards Dr Hale's house: among the men was the Doctor's late servant - this man had, among other things, hidden in the forest a case of Brandy, the Doctor's property: this was a few months ago when the family had been suddenly alarmed one day. Two or three times afterwards the Doctor had taken this man into the forest to find this case of Brandy and the man, after searching about each time, pretended that in his fright he must have forgotten where he had hidden the case - but now as he neared the farm and knew that the Doctor was that day in Howick, he told his companions he could give them all round a glass of brandy and of course quickly found out the hidden treasure (12 bottles full) and distributed it with a liberal hand. When the Doctor heard this he was very wrathful at his treacherous servant - though he did not begrudge the men the grog.

After a rest the Major moved on and, skirmishing through all the flat, rounded the hill at the mouth of the Wairoa to come back by the friendly native settlements of Umuinua [Umupuia] and Maraiti. Without further adventure they reached the head of Waikupua Creek where they had slept the night before, but in the dark missed their way and, there being a high spring tide, got entangled on the mud flat where they were kept prisoners till 12 o'clock before the tide had so far ebbed as to allow them to cross to terra firma. So they gave up all hope of getting into their beds that night; some slept at Trice's boat house - some in his barn - and the Major and his son got a room at Trice's house where the

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SIGNS OF WAR

two between 12 and 5 o'clock smoked no end of pipes and drank 2 bottles of brandy. At five they moved off and came on to Howick - very much done up - more thro' want of food than the length of the march.

And what had become of the 200 Maories which the Doctor had seen with his own very eyes: Long George, a friendly native, tells us there were but 120 in all - 60 of whom were women - and these women crossed the river to gather cockles while 60 men remained on the further side to guard them. Of course by noon the following day all the wahines had gone back to the Pah, cockles and all. The men however, Long George (he is nearly 7 feet tall) tells us, were actually at the opposite side of the river hidden among the flax, but watching all the movements of the Pakeha.

18 October. A great deal has occurred since I wrote the above: during this last week no less than seven Europeans have been tomahawked by the natives - each attack has been made when the party was alone and unprepared. One of the seven is my friend Mr Job Hamlin - a very old and infirm man - another is a woman and two are boys of tender age, so the struggle is speedily that of race against race.

I had a short service at 10 o'clock for the Waikato Corps - Otago diggers and Melbourne men - the Church was well filled, not a woman being present.

19. The guards about Howick encreased. Captain Drury and his corps are to march up to Drury tomorrow. Two more redoubts are to be built on the Wairoa; these fortifications will help to make Howick much safer. In the midst of all these signs of war the officers here are getting up a grand picnic and a lady called to enquire whether I could send in to Auckland for Miss Lush, that she might form one of the party!

25. Left Howick on Hine for the Wairoa. Got to Mr Wheeler's about 4 o'clock and, leaving my horse in his paddock, walked into the village of Papakura. Saw Mr Wallis who told me his little boy, tomahawked so badly by the

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Maories, was likely to live. Visited James Wilson in his tent - found him suffering from lumbago.

8 November. It was on the 25th of last month I hurriedly finished off my last diary. I was then at the Wairoa, waiting for the morning service. I had dinner at the Thorps', and then, not seeing any prospect of an escort going towards Papakura, I determined to push through by myself. I passed over the spot where the Maories had been seen last night, laden with the settlers' goods and chattels, and saw, from the fragments of things scattered along the road, proof unmistakable of the speed they had to make in their retreat to avoid being overtaken by the men of the 18th.

I was now nearing the most dangerous part of my ride, where the forest comes up close to the road-side, the road itself being full of stumps of trees left standing when the forest was felled to form the road. These stumps, together with long, straggling roots in all directions and pools of water and very soft places where a horse is apt to sink deeper than the rider likes - all these combined to make the road anything but an easy one to gallop along, but one's safety - humanly speaking - depended upon going along this portion of the road at a slapping pace.

As I was jogging along, thinking I would reserve Hine for the last pinch, and looking across the opening at the edge of the forest that ran at right angles to the road, I heard a slight noise as of a branch breaking, and two or three cows that were quietly grazing near started and turned round and looked hard into the forest where the sound had proceeded. This action of the cows convinced me that some natives were prowling there and perhaps coming along the road to intercept me. At once I put Hine to a full gallop and in spite of stumps, roots, bags and all I dashed along as fast as she, poor creature, could carry me, and to see her exertions one would have fancied she understood the danger and was doing her best to get me away from it. Certain it is that when at last I emerged into the open fern country and pulled up to

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FRIGHTFULLY TOMAHAWKED

go easier, she was all of a tremble, a thing I have not seen before.

Not far onwards I met Mr Norry going to the Wairoa. I told him what I had heard; after a little hesitation he too determined to risk it and we parted. By dint of hard riding got home - rode straight to Mr Trust's and there saw his eldest son laid upon his bed with his arm shattered and his two younger sons both shot dead and frightfully tomahawked. They wished the funeral to take place at once so, turning Hine into my paddock, I went straight to the Church yard and waited till the funeral came - a melancholy cortege, two coffins and a large number of the Waikato Volunteers. It rained all the time the service was performed.

Mr Norry, it seems, like myself past unmolested, but the next man who rode through was fired upon and severely wounded; so I was right in my conjecture that the sudden starting round of the cows indicated the presence and movement of some Maories. I find the government have now begun to fell that bit of forest, now that Hamlin and Hewson and Wallis have been shot at from this very spot. And, but for our clerical dress and white cravats, the names of Lush and Norry might have had to be added to the list.

The natives, I hear, have cut down the flag staff at the Manukau Heads and carried off the Pilot's boat. It is said that Howick is to be still more strengthened, that a larger number of troops is to be stationed there.

11. Knowing that Dr Hale and his son had yesterday ridden over to the mouth of the Wairoa where his farm is situated, I went to Mrs Hale to ascertain if he had returned. He had not: she was very anxious and seemed very depressed. She told me that news had come from Town that the Governor, Sir George Grey, had been arrested for traitorously aiding and abetting the Maories. I told her I didn't believe a word of it: but she said that when the soldiers took Mere Mere and found it vacated, some letters were discovered which the Natives had left behind them, and that the General had them, and that several of them were from Sir George Grey to the rebels informing them of the General's movements and

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advising them to flee from Mere Mere and get to the Thames. It is said, Mrs Hale added, that the General was almost frantic with rage and had the Governor arrested for High Treason! It showed however the public feeling against the Governor for such reports to get abroad, and all who heard it, I found, expressed their delight and hoped he would be packed off to England by the next vessel!

While we were talking the Doctor and his son returned: the news they brought was most heart breaking. The soldiers and Waikato Volunteers, who have been sent to the Lower Wairoa to "protect" the country, have visited his house and broken his windows - tables - chairs - torn his books - stolen all his sheets, blankets and household linen; killed all his pigs, fowls, turkeys - destroyed his garden and let all his cattle loose upon the open run. The whole place is a perfect wreck. He caught two men, one of the 18th and one of the Volunteers, in his house, loading themselves with various articles - he nearly shot one of them and the other escaped. He went to the redoubt and the Officer had the assurance to say his men had not done it, when Dr Hale saw and identified lots of his property in the redoubt! "Oh, well then," said the officer. "If the men had not taken the things, the Maories would."

1 December. A sad gap since my last date. At this present time Blanche, myself and our young servant girl are at the Parsonage. Blannie, Mrs Cole and the rest of the children are at St Stephen's Native Institution near Auckland.

Yesterday Blanche and I rode to Otahuhu to call upon two of our Parishioners who used to live in lonely farms some two or three miles from Howick and for fear of the Maories have left their farms and taken refuge in Otahuhu: the Wilsons and the Harrises. Mrs Wilson has recently been confined with her fifth child: I left Blanche with her and rode on to view the new Church, recently built. The former Church (which had not been consecrated) is turned into a schoolroom and Master's residence. I also called upon Mr Gould, the Clergyman of Otahuhu.

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AN OUTRAGEOUS FLIRTATION

We got back in good time and as we passed Dr Hovell's, Blanche got off her horse and went in to spend the evening with Mrs Hovell. I took the horses home and went for her about 9 o'clock. Lieutenant Young and an Ensign of the name of Wilson were having an outrageous flirtation with Miss Franklin, the Governess.

2. A somewhat clouded day, but Blanche and I managed to go out a good deal in the village and pay a number of visits. There is a lull just now in the war. The general has not yet moved from Rangiriri.

5. Blanche and I rode to Auckland. The boys had returned from school when we reached St Stephen's: so they took the horses from us and rode them to the Livery stables.

6. The last two days have been very wet - a serious thing for the Hay makers as a large quantity of Hay is cut but not secured. Two nights ago, I hear, there was an alarm raised in the village but fortunately for me I was in bed and fast asleep and knew nothing of it till the danger (if any) had passed away. With the country between Howick and the Wairoa so well guarded as now is, I consider our village in great security and do not in the least anticipate even an attempt at an attack on us by the natives. There are but a few of the Volunteers in Church and those of Captain Krippner's Company: he is a German and almost all his corps are Germans. 92

10. Hired a horse and cart which I took to St Stephen's for a load of chattels and Anne and Edith. Atkins took in Hine, so Blannie accompanied us back to Howick. This is the first instalment of the Family returned to the Parsonage. The little girls were delighted at seeing once more their Home.

11. Great talk of peace. The Queen's flag is flying at Ngaruawahia, where the King's palace was, far up the Waikato.

12. Took Wagstaff's horse and cart, and Tommy, to town again for the two boys and some more of our goods. As I passed the Grammar Sshool the boys were all rushing out, it

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being near 12 o'clock: presently Charlie and Martin came out and espied me; Charlie was speedily on his pony and Martin with me in the cart.

Mamma had not expected me today so we were very busy packing up a load sufficient to fill the cart. After dinner we called at the Chapmans' end of the Institution to leave our cards on the Bishop of Waiapu and Mrs Williams. Charlie on his pony and Martin in the cart were waiting at the school for me, so I parted from Blanche and joined them and we started homewards, accompanied by Willie Hargreaves who, like Charles and Martin, was going home for the holidays. Charlie reached the Parsonage long before Martin and me but we were all at tea and a merry party we made. Blannie had plenty to do in unpacking and getting the boys' rooms ready: it was near 11 o'clock before we all got to rest.

13. After dinner Charlie and I started for the Redoubt at the head of the Turanga Creek but in trying to cross the Mungamungaroa Creek Charlie's pony got nearly bogged, so we gave it up and returned to Howick. In the evening while waiting for candles I suggested to Charlie that he should see whether he recollected any of his music: it is now nearly 6 months since he touched a Pianoforte. I was very much pleased to hear him rattle over his scales and then still more pleased to find that after two or three trials he recollected "Sound the Loud Timbrel" and the Evening Hymn.

14. I had engaged a man to drive Wagstaff's horse and cart to town for Blanche, Baby and Mrs Cole, but at the last moment he disappointed me, so Charlie offered to drive the cart and I took in Tommy, riding Hine myself: a neighbour, a poor woman, asked for a lift into Town. Charlie drove very carefully: we had a hot and fatiguing day's work and were very thankful when, about nine o'clock, we all sat down once more round our dining-room table to get a good tea or supper. It is nearly six months since we were all under this roof together.


[The journal for 1863 ends on this page.]

1   Appendix, 5.
2   Parnell-Sarawia Street.
3   T. S. Forsaith. Appendix, 6.
4   First Vicar of St Paul's church, Emily Place, Auckland. Appendix, 20.
5   Appendix, 7.
6   Revd J. F. Lloyd.
7   Appendix, 8.
8   St Stephen's School for Maori Girls. Appendix, 9.
9   Robert Baird Lusk.
10   Then in charge of St Peter's parish, Onehunga. Appendix, 10.
11   William Champion, Bishop Selwyn's sailing master.
12   Revd W. C. Cotton, St. John's College. In New Zealand 1842-7.
13   Revd S. F. Ward, St John's College.
14   The Royal Hotel. B. Lewis, publican.
15   Appendix, 11.
16   Appendix, 12.
17   Snapper.
18   A fish like a kakawai or mackerel.
19   Later Colonel the Hon. W. H. Kenny, M. L. C.
20   Mount Victoria, North Shore.
21   A portable font, usually metal, carried by itinerant clergy in the Colonies and in the U. S. A.
22   Captain Montresor Smith, Royal New Zealand Fencibles, Howick.
23   Revd H. W. St Hill.
24   Henare Taratoa. Appendix, 13.
25   Hon. Henrietta Clinton. Appendix, 14.
26   Augustus Abraham.
27   New Zealand Society for the Propagation of Christian Knowledge.
28   Margaret Frances Selwyn.
29   John Bridgford.
30   Lieut. John Jermyn Symonds, Royal N. Z. Fencibles, Onehunga.
31   Possibly Wynyard.
32   Surgeon J. T. W. Bacot; appointed to Howick 1848.
33   William Richardson Gundry. Appendix, 15.
34   See plate, between pages 144-5.
35   The Trice brothers, settled at Turanga Creek (now Whitford) in 1843.
36   Appendix, 16.
37   Revd W. C. Dudley.
38   Native pigeon.
39   Edward Hills. Appendix, 17.
40   Henry Hadlow, businessman, arrived in Auckland 1841.
41   A cousin of Revd W. C. Cotton.
42   The son of an early C. M. S, missionary, Revd J. A. Wilson, he was too young to remember the lean years of pre-1840 settlement; a second generation was experiencing them in 1852.
43   Appendix, 18.
44   Robert Maclean of Bleak House.
45   Brigade Major J. Greenwood, Royal New Zealand Fencibles.
46   John Richardson Selwyn, b. Bay of Island 1845.
47   Mrs Albin Martin of Otara.
48   Lizzie Nihill married Revd John Still - a Melanesian missionary.
49   Of Tauranga.
50   Riwai (Levi) Te Ahu.
51   Brailey.
52   Revd B. Y. Ashwell.
53   Mrs Elizabeth Colenso (nee Fairburn).
54   Revd Heta Tarawhiti.
55   Mrs John Styak of Green Mount, East Tamaki.
56   John Coleridge Patteson, later Bishop of Melanesia. Appendix, 19.
57   In the possession of Miss Ellen Lush.
58   Formerly Betsy.
59   Major Marmaduke Nixon, Mangere.
60   Now Clevedon.
61   A follower of the High Church Anglican cleric, Edward Bouverie Pusey.
62   By Agnes Strickland.
63   Appendix, 20.
64   Te Karere Maori, issued fortnightly 1849-54 and irregularly 1855-61; printed in Maori and English.
65   "The quarrels of lovers are the renewal of love."--Terence.
66   Annette (Eliza Anne).
67   Vicar of St Mark's Church, Remuera.
68   Captain (later Colonel) Charles Neil Rookes.
69   At Captain McDonald's "large house".
70   This diagnosis was also the opinion of Mr Purchas who attended Charles during the scarlet fever epidemic of 1854.
71   Appendix, 21.
72   Charlotte Mary Yonge, 1823-1901. Appendix, 25.
73   Francis Browne of Clermont, Wairoa (now Clevedon).
74   Intended for future deans but never occupied by one.
75   John Scott Wallis, aged nine months.
76   Frances Haselden, governess.
77   Unfortunately there is no answer to curiosity in the surviving pages of this Journal, but young Miss Lush's own account fills the gap:

"15 July 1861. We were fortunate in having a fine evening to walk down to Government House. I enjoyed myself very much and to my great pleasure and surprise I saw Sophy [Kenny] there. Of course we went with the Abrahams and Mamma had a new silk dress for the occasion; mine was white tarlatan. I did not dance often but I should not have liked to have danced more and I enjoyed looking on. At the "At Homes" there are 2 rooms, one for music, the other for dancing, and on going into the music room to rest for a short time I had the pleasure of hearing Mrs Rookes sing. At 12 o'clock the Band played the National Anthem, when we all wished the Governor and Mrs Gore Browne good night and went home." (Journal of Blanche Lush, 1860-1.)
78   I have sinned.
79   Victoria Cossey, of Drury.
80   Wife of Francis Dillion Bell, 1822-98; Native Minister 1862.
81   William Edward.
82   Campanile (bell-tower). Appendix, 24.
83   Revd E. H. Heywood.
84   Revd Gideon Smales.
85   Probably Taraia Ngakuti te Tumuhuia, described by James Cowan as "a fierce uncompromising old firebrand until the end of his days".
86   A harsh judgement of one who did all he could to prevent the killing of non-combatants according to Maori custom; probably newspaper propaganda.
87   Revd Thomas Norrie, Presbyterian Minister.
88   Ewelme Cottage, Appendix, 2.
89   Mrs Duncan McNicol.
90   Tea-tree (manuka).
91   Nocton, Wairoa.
92   Appendix, 22.

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