1982 - Lush, Vicesimus. The Waikato Journals of Vicesimus Lush, 1864-8, 1881-2 - THE INNER WAIKATO JOURNALS, p 25-162

[Image of page 25]

THE INNER WAIKATO JOURNALS OF

VICESIMUS LUSH

1864-8

10 March 1864. Through being without any Foreign Post Paper I have neglected my diary for, I fear, 6 or 8 weeks past. This evening Blannie and I are alone at the Parsonage. Mamma and the rest of the family are living in our own cottage 1 situated close to the Grammar School near Parnell.

15. On the 11th I sent Blannie into Town on Hine, under the care of an old Pensioner. Upwards of fifty families lately arrived from Sydney have been sent to Howick. Many of the cottages are full to inconvenience: I calculated that 250 souls have been added to the population within the last fortnight.

[Image of page 26]

These people are a small portion of the number enlisted at Sydney for special location along the banks of the recently acquired Waikato River: the husbands are to form a corps of defence in the Waikato country and ultimately they will form a series of military settlements right across the Island from West to East. Meanwhile the wives and children are located at Onehunga and Otahuhu and Howick.

For several days I have been busy getting acquainted with the "New Arrivals" as they are called. Twelve more families are expected tomorrow; probably 48 or 50 souls in all. I don't think there will be room for any more - in several cases a whole family of eight souls are lodging in one room, 12 x 12.

25. Good Friday. A bright sultry day: though the congregation was not large, the Church was oppressive. This is the last time, most likely, that Brady & Tates version will be used in Howick Church: for on Sunday next (Easter Sunday) I begin using The New Zealand Hymnal, compiled under the authority of the General Synod of the Branch of the United Church of England and Ireland in New Zealand.

6 April. On the first of this month I took Blannie to Town. In the afternoon Blanche, Blannie, Martin and myself walked to the Wynyard Pier, where we met a large party of ladies and gentlemen all bound on the same errand of pleasure - viz: a visit to Her Majesty's ship, the Curacao, where there were to be Theatricals and dancing and a supper. Mr and Mrs Kinder 2 and Mr Kinder's sister were there, so we formed a party to ourselves. One of the ship's boats came alongside and some 40 of us got in - we were rowed by 12 men - 6 oars each side - and speedily reacht the side of the noble ship. More than half the deck was covered over with awnings and flags and made a splendid ball-room: at one end of which was the stage, very tastefully fitted up. While the company arrived the band played various polkas and the officers had some dancing. Blannie came in for a share tho' it was understood that the dancing would be after the Theatricals and supper. At last when the deck seemed inconveniently crowded

[Image of page 27]

with guests the "playing" began. I could not help looking at Martin's delighted and astonished face. It was also a good opportunity for Blannie to receive some notion of the stage and acting, for she is not likely to go to anything of the sort in Auckland. The scenery and the dresses were first rate, the acting also very good and everybody -- as in duty bound - cheered and seemed pleased. We had excellent music also at intervals. Then came the supper which I for one heartily enjoyed, and then the Kinders and ourselves managed to persuade one of the Middies to get us a boat, and we left, just as the dancing was beginning, so I was glad Blannie had had one or two polkas earlier in the evening. When we reacht home it was 12 o'clock.

We had breakfast the next morning by 8. Having my new horse "Jerry" (old Jessy's foal), a mere baby - a two year old colt - I could not ride much beyond a walk, so I reacht Otahuhu not before 12 o'clock. Here I gave Jerry a rest of two hours and a good feed, and took good care of myself by calling on Mrs [John] Hall, an old lady I got acquainted with the first month after I landed 13 years ago. She gave me a warm welcome and entertained me with hearty hospitality. From Otahuhu I jogged slowly on to Papakura, where for Jerry's sake I again stopped almost an hour, visiting Captain [C. A. ] Calvert whose wife I found had just been confined - they have another baby to make up for the loss of that baby that died just as the war broke out 18 months ago - through Mother and baby taking cold, from having to escape in the cold one night from their farm to Papakura. From Calvert's I jogged on to the Thorps' 3 - Jerry, poor little thing, doing the long long journey very well. The next day I had my usual semi-military services. Hampton Thorp accompanied me back to Howick.

7. Today I went with my cart and Jerry to the Ferry: the punt is laid up for repairs; so there is no crossing the Tamaki for a cart. Blanche however was on the other shore waiting for me: she had driven over from Town on purpose. I drove her home to Howick.

10. Yesterday the Bishop came just about dusk, having ridden

[Image of page 28]

round by Otahuhu - when he arrived I was out visiting a sick person - he looks ill and worried.

12. Took our new medical man, Dr [C. B.] Beale, a short cut to the Kings' 4 whose eldest daughter is seriously ill with the scarlet fever. I found him a pleasant companion.

13. Visited another family today with three children ill of the scarlet fever. I was thankful Blanche and the children were away.

14. Paid visits to those sick of the scarlet fever: at Panmure it is raging sadly. There is a report that some 100 of our men at Taranaki have been surprised by the Natives and fled before them; of course many were shot down - so the war lingers on and who can tell when it will be over?

16. There is a horrible rumour in the village that a dozen heads have been dried in native ovens and sent up to the North to incite, if possible, the Bay of Islands Maories to join in the war. The soldiers will remember this when next they attack the Waikatoes and show less quarter than they have done of late.

6 May. Yesterday I returned to Howick bringing Blannie back with me. Directly I returned to Howick I had to bury a young woman aged 16, who had died from the effects of scarlet fever. Howick has been infected with this complaint for the last six months. After breakfast Blannie and I went out (separately and in diverse directions) into the village. She met Pat Bryan, the carrier, and East, Mr Seddon's 5 man, walking together and spoke to them: they did not know her! I don't know which party was the most astonished, Blannie at not being recognised or Pat and East at not recognising her. I told her she was just now looking so much better than usual that she had better accept the incident as a compliment. Blanche thinks all the children have better health in Auckland than they had in Howick excepting for poor dear Charlie; I somewhat agree with her.

[Image of page 29]

7. After dinner Blannie and I walked up to Break House, 6 where she went in to see her friend Ellen Maclean. I walked on to Mr Mason's 7 old farm, lately purchased by a Mr Logan. On my return the rain began to fall: however I reached Bleak House before I was very wet and staid tea with the Macleans.

I learnt that there was a party being formed in the village to try to get rid of me for the purpose of having (if they can) a recently ordained deacon, a Mr Dudley! 8 Such I fear may often be the fruits of our "voluntary" system.

8. A stormy Sunday. A small congregation at Howick - a better one in proportion at Otara. After the service at the latter place I rode to Mr Albin Martin's, where the Judge, Sir Geo. Arney, is staying: he has been very ill and seems sadly reduced. When I got home I found Blannie had spent the evening with a lonely lady, Mrs Brathwaite, so I think that she, poor girl, has spent the day well, having taken the Harmonium morning and afternoon, her usual class at the Sunday School, besides an hour's instruction to our own servant at home - and then sitting with an old lady who is just now greatly depressed in mind and estate.

9. Sent Blannie off on Jerry to Onehunga whither she has gone to pay a visit to the Kennys, 9 Atkins walked by her side to bring the horse back. She started at 1/2 past nine and Atkins tells me it was 1/2 past 2 before they reached the Colonel's house - 5 hours on horseback! Rather too long a time. I went a long walk into the country to visit a settler who had broken his leg.

1 June. On Monday the 30th ult. I drove Mrs Hovell 10 and her daughter to Town: put them down at the school Harriet attends and then went to the Livery stables: the town was filling fast with people from the country to attend or witness Colonel Nixon's 11 funeral. The Livery stables were so full there was scarce room for my horse and 50 of the Volunteer Cavalry rode in and picketed their horses any where and every where,

[Image of page 30]

so that there were three horses jammed into almost every stall. I was glad to get my Jerry out and put into the shafts again, but before I could leave the Yard, 80 more from the country came riding in - or attempted to ride in. When the Yard was again tolerably clear, I left and proceeded to Parnell. I was very grieved to find a sick house - Mamma -- Martin - Edith - and especially Baby, and to add to their troubles, poor old Mrs Cole: Blannie and Charlie the only ones well.

The next morning, Mrs Cole being worse and confined still to her bed, I went and fetched her daughter Mrs Prescott to take her place. This was a great relief: enabling Blannie to go as usual to Mrs Krippner 12 for her music and singing lessons. Mrs Hovell joined us for dinner and immediately after she and I started for Howick. Today I have been making arrangements to send Mary Anne Heath 13 in to Town to help. There are many cases still of scarlet fever in Howick - two children have today died of it, and in one family the mother and six children have taken it and are now very ill.

Accounts received from Town speak favourably of the children and Mrs Cole. Mary Anne Heath who I sent the day before yesterday is a great help just now.

21. All the children (Edward excepted) are now at Howick with me. The boys' holidays (three weeks) commenced yesterday. Mamma, Edward and Mrs Cole remain in town: Mamma being too ill to undertake the journey.

1 August. Answering to 1st February in England - but the weather today has been like a fine July day in England. Blannie and I took a short ride before dinner. While at dinner Miss Woolfield and her "intended", Mr Geo. Didsbury, called - they fastened up their horses and joined us at dinner. I showed Mr Didsbury the Church: Blannie wished them goodbye then as she had to attend the day school.

2. Drove Blannie to town - got "home" by dinner time. Blanche and the children seemed well: when the boys returned from school in the afternoon they told us that instead of having lessons, Mr Kinder had taken them a walk to the top of Mount Hobson. I was glad of this for the day was deliciously

[Image of page 31]

fine. The boys and I had an early tea and then I took them and Mary Anne to the Circus to see some wonderful horsemanship. They were delighted, Martin particularly: the performance began at 1/2 past 7 and lasted till 11 o'clock. It was after 12 before we reacht home.

3. Very busy working in our new land - forming a bed or two for some vegetables. After dinner drove Blanche into Auckland - Blannie went to spend the afternoon and evening with some friends, the Medleys - eldest son of the Bishop of Fredericton. After an early cup of coffee I drove home (my home at Howick) alone. On reaching the Tamaki I was delighted to see a vessel had just arrived in the river with a load of the first instalment of materials for our projected Bridge across the Tamaki. The cost will be £15,000.

4. Took Mrs Hovell a ride as far as the Woolfields at Otara: we staid tea. I left Hine there, as I wished to give her a month or two at grass: for being again alone I don't want two horses. Mrs Hovell rode back on Jerry and I walked by her side.

5. A change in the weather: the rain has begun again.

8. Drove to Town. Found all pretty well but Charlie: planted several nice flowers which I took in. After dinner Blanche accompanied me to Auckland.

9. Busy till 11 o'clock gardening, planting beans, and then I called upon Archdeacon Kissling and Mrs Selwyn. The Archdeacon is very ill - I think he will not be long here. After dinner I drove Blanche, Blannie, Anne and Edith to Mr Heyward's 14 -- Mamma and Blannie, wishing to call upon Mrs Heyward. They were however all from home so they thrust their cards beneath the door and I parted with them. I drove on to St John's College to take up Miss Anlezark and her niece, May Seddon, whom I took to Howick.

16. Spent all day visiting 1st the School and then the villagers - had tea with Mrs Braithwaite.

17. Wet since the 11th. On the 15th I went to town. Mamma

[Image of page 32]

and all better. Charlie and Martin went with me yesterday afternoon into town: the former to give £1 to the Orphan Asylum: this being part of the Tithe of the money he has received from his eggs: he puts by most religiously the 10th part of all he gets.

2 September. Borrowed Fairy, Miss Anzelark's horse, which I rode into Town: sent Hine and Jerry in by a man for Blannie and Bertha Taylor. The afternoon however turned out wet and Bertha was afraid to venture: so the man had to ride back with Jerry and Blannie and I returned at a good hand gallop the whole 15 miles - which we accomplished in 2 hours including the 20 minutes consumed in crossing the Ferry. I think I never made a quicker journey - rain and wind too, full in our faces. Of course we were wet through by the time we reacht the Parsonage, but Blannie had a nice fire burning in her bedroom and there was a famous one in the sitting-room, and when we had put our dry things on and had settled down to some tea we were glad we had come when we did for as the evening advanced the rain increased greatly in volume and force and there was a terrific storm in the midst of which Tom Atkins arrived with Jerry - thoroughly done for - the lad, not the horse.

3. Called in at Atkins's - found Tom too stiff to move, and looking still tired and jaded. Blannie and I who were both accustomed to ride were all right when we got up.

7 November. At last I have procured a quire of foreign letter paper and can resume my journal: upwards of a month have I been without, so my sister will find a great gap in the record of my doings. Blannie and Annette have been staying with me for the last ten days. They and Tui Hargreaves (my God-daughter) went to Parnell today: as I must go to Town on Thursday, I asked Mr Becker, Mrs Hovell's brother, to drive them in. I started them off about half past 8. Mr Becker returned about 7, giving me a good report of Charlie and Martin, indeed of all except Mamma who has again suffered from Neuralgia. The Parsonage seems very dull without the children.

8. Took by appointment my two horses (Jerry with a side-

[Image of page 33]

saddle) to Mrs Hovell's a little before eight - there I had breakfast with her and her brother; Mr Vidal (a cousin of the Bishop's) came about nine o'clock with two horses (one for Mr Becker) and we all started for the Wairoa, a district new to all but me. We had a very pleasant ride to Papakura which we reacht about 1/2 past one and rested the horses for a couple of hours and had a good dinner ourselves. Thence we proceeded to the Wairoa, my party admiring the country (now familiar to me) as much as I expected. We rode straight to the Stockade, 15 now almost deserted, and Sergeant Walker who is in charge promised to have two of the bunks got ready for Vidal and Becker to sleep in tonight. We then went to the Thorps' -- and "Miss" looked aghast at such a party coming unexpectedly till I told her the two single men were to sleep at the Stockade: then she became courteous enough. We had a merry evening for Becker was in high spirits and he was the life of the party. About io he and Vidal left - and I was left to the Parlour couch - my usual resting place - Mrs Hovell disappearing into the upper regions with the two Miss Thorps. 16

9. As we were to breakfast at 7 and I knew not how soon the Parlour might be wanted, I was up by five o'clock: soon after to my surprise Mrs Hovell made her appearance and the grass being too wet for a walk in the fields we tramped up and down the Verandah with occasional rests, till breakfast was announced. The Weather was beautiful, the country looking its best, so green and fresh, and the birds at this time of year in full song. Mrs Hovell and her brother seemed highly delighted with all they saw. He and Vidal came across for breakfast - immediately after we left for Dr Hale's place 17 near the mouth of the river.

We stopt at Mr Browne's 18 again for some time, and for some time at Captain Salmon's farm where we got luncheon - and then pushed on to the Doctor's. To our great surprise we there met Miss Charlotte Thorp and Miss McNicholl; as Vidal had been paying Charlotte great attention at breakfast, of course Vidal got greatly roasted about it all the rest of

[Image of page 34]

the day, but if poor Charlotte had come over intentionally she was disappointed, for I could not stay. Though Dr Hale and Mrs Hale pressed me hard, I was firm.

It would not have done to have been benighted on our way home, Mrs Hovell being but a very indifferent horsewoman: and I have had enough of accidents with her. We had a delightful ride the remainder of the way, calling in at Mr Craig's where Becker and Vidal got some whisky and all of us a quarter of an hour's rest. Thence on to the Trices' where we turned the horses out into a paddock and we went in for a substantial meat tea - a refreshment we all needed much. After which, by moonlight, we finished the remainder of our journey, swimming the horses across Turanga Creek and reaching home -- not overtired - about 10 o'clock.

14. Hearing that Tebbutt had broken his hip bone I rode to the Turanga to see him: Mr Becker and Mrs Hovell accompanied me. Mrs H. has been 3 years in the Colony and this is the first time she has travelled through the forest: we skirted it only when we went last week to the Wairoa. We found Tebbutt not so injured as we expected, but laid up. We had dinner there and got back to Howick at half past five.

15. Drove to Parnell. Found all well

16. Took Mamma, Blannie, Anne and Edith and Tui Hargreaves 19 in the cart into Auckland; there we - i.e. Tui and I - left them and we returned to Parnell, took up our luggage and drove off to Panmure. We reacht the Ferry and, to my intense disgust, found that the chain was broken and the punt not usable. The man assured me that in 1 1/2 hours he would be able to put me across so Tui and I sat down on the grass - I reading the paper - she watching the men working on the new bridge. 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5 hours did we sit there. Five mortal hours!! I had tea with the Hargreaveses: to add to all my troubles while waiting for the Ferry, Tui gave me a lolly and in biting it I broke one of my false front teeth - not only leaving a gap that prevents one speaking quite clearly, but showed an ugly metal spike

[Image of page 35]

sticking out where the tooth was -- which spike not only hurts my tongue but evidently astonishes all to whom I speak. So, here again, I am for another ride into Auckland before Sunday for the purpose of seeing the Dentist - bother it all!

19. Got up at 3 o'clock! Started for Auckland on Hine at 4 and reacht Parnell by 6. No one was up: so when I was let in I went to bed for a couple of hours - all were astonished to see me but my visit to the Dentist was imperative. Brought in the new potatoes Pye gave me on Thursday -- almost the first they have tasted this year. Got my tooth rectified and directly after dinner left for Howick, riding round by Onehunga to ask Mr Purchas for the loan of a lantern fitted up to show dissolving views as I wish to give the school children a treat this Xmas.

21. I drove to Parnell in time for breakfast. After an early dinner returned with Blannie: brought a larger load than usual. Blannie will remain in Howick till after Xmas.

22. After dinner Blannie went to Bleak House: her friend Ellen Maclean is to be married tomorrow and Blannie is to be her chief Bridesmaid. There are to be extensive doings - a Baron of Beef roasting whole for the work-people and a Hogshead of beer provided for their drink: and a very large assembly in the house - but strange - not any of the Howick folk invited excepting Blannie and myself.

23. Went to the Church before breakfast to see how Mrs East had decorated the Communion Table with bouquets of flowers. The effect was good. After breakfast drove Blannie to Bleak House, where she was to put on her bridesmaid's finery.

The villagers began to assemble shortly before 11 -- but it was 1/2 past 11 ere the first carriage containing the Bridegroom and his friends arrived - 4 other carriages quickly followed -- the last containing the Bride, Blanche and Mr Maclean. The Church was crowded: the Service went off well and I returned with the wedding party, a "stanhope" 20 having been sent from Bleak House for me and Fanny Martin.

[Image of page 36]

The breakfast was sumptuous and champaign and claret flowed like water: In the Barn a large assembly of men and their wives and children were regaling themselves on Baron of Beef and the Hogshead of beer. The Bride and Bridegroom went "off" in a carriage and pair about 4 o'clock, a shower of old slippers following them for luck's sake. Shortly after the company broke up - Mr Martin, Mergellina and Fanny and Blanche returned to the Parsonage - where they got on their horses, Blannie on Hine, and went off to Stour House, Mr Martin's 21 place. So finding the Parsonage very lonely I walked up to Mrs Hovell's and joined her and her brother at their tea: and told her all the particulars. 22

24. A Parish Meeting at 3 o'clock. Amongst other business the Churchwardens announced that the deficiency in my salary (viz. &c.9. 17. 6) on the 30 of last June has just been paid into Archdeaconry fund (5 months! after the time). The Churchwardens evidently think they have done well and that now the Bishop will have no excuse for removing me -- but they seem to forget £13. 10. 11 due to me for the half year ending 31 Dec. 1863 - and £17. 17. 6 for the half year ending 30 June 1863. If they forget it I do not and I'm sure the Bishop won't. If I had followed my good wife's advice I should have placed my resignation in the Bishop's hands when the Parishioners first broke faith with me: but I have always had a deep dislike to remove to a new place and have to make an acquaintance with a set of new people. Not once, till this last half year, has the Parish kept faith with me: so if I go it will not be through my fault. George Thorp called and arranged to ride with me to the Wairoa tomorrow.

25. Got to the Turanga Creek ferry about 7: had a great difficulty in getting Jerry to take to the water: lost upwards of half an hour; when once in the beast swims beautifully. Met Geo. Thorp at Mr Trice's 23 - they were waiting breakfast for me. Saw their new "Sewing Machine": wish I could afford to buy Blanche one: I think it would save her from much of her present slavery at the needle. After breakfast started for Dr Hale's - called by him "Nocton" - a farm

[Image of page 37]

the most like a park of any I have seen in New Zealand. By dint of hard riding - which Geo. evidently did not like but was too polite to object to, and I was too savage to check - we reached Nocton by dinner time. After tea George left. We had Family Worship, in the midst of which we had the Baptismal service and I baptized their baby, now a month old - Decimus Augustus - the "tenth" baptized by the "twentieth". Supper is the Hales' chief meal: today it was a heavy repast and notwithstanding my ride kept me awake some time when I went to bed.

26. After breakfast the Doctor gave me a "Doctor" - i.e. a tumbler of new milk in which is well mixed a glass of.... shall I tell? For really I like it and think it very good - a glass of rum. It was terribly hot weather and Dr Hale said it would (the milk and rum) keep me cool! However I found it very sustaining and think I could have ridden all day if necessary without further refreshment. Called at the Brownes' as I passed up the river, then stept in at the Thorps' to leave my valise, &c., and pushed on to Captain Calvert's: this is my first visit since he returned to his farm when driven away by the Maories. He showed me the holes in the wall the bullets had made - where the natives stood when they fired at him and his son - where his son fell: and where he rushed out upon the Maories, sword in hand, and drove them out of the house. Poor man, he seemed to take a morbid pleasure in dwelling upon all these sad details. However I was glad to get away and rode on to "mine host" at the Traveller's Rest where I got a nice dinner - all the nicer it tasted because it was freely given.

Spent all the afternoon visiting: every where the still unsettled state of the country was the topic of conversation. They said that if they were driven away from their homesteads again - they would never return, but seek a home in some more secure country.

27. Advent Sunday. My little Wairoa Church begins to look as clean as it did before the War. It has been used and abused by the soldiers: now the outside has been painted and the inside well scrubbed with soap and soda and most of the stains left by Tobacco, rum and brine removed. Added to which, Mr and Mrs Walker (two thorough Church people) have presented

[Image of page 38]

a handsome cloth for the Altar and a Bible and a Prayer Book. For the sake of saving the Church funds (and we are in very low water) Mr Walker has painted the Church and Mrs Walker has washed out the inside of the Church: such a case is a cheering thing.

On my way to the Wairoa Road had two separate baptisms at two different houses and then the evening service at the Church; rode back to Howick through the forest: Jerry made "no Bones" this evening in taking the creek. He knew his face was set homewards and he was so eager to take the plunge that I had a trouble to keep him out of the water till the boat came for me and his saddle.

28. Posted two portions of Journal - one to Anne - the other to Eliza: had a funeral in the midst of a storm: got very wet.

30. Walter Martin brought Blannie home shortly before dinner. Hine as well as her young mistress looked remarkably well. Blannie told me she (the mare) had gone famously, so full of spirit. After tea we (B. and I) went into the Church and she played till near nine to me - voluntaries - psalm tunes, &c.

31 [sic]. Blannie on Hine, Mrs Hovell and I in the cart, went to town. We did not start till near 1/2 past 4, and hearing that the punt at the Panmure Ferry was laid up, we had to go round by Otahuhu: passing Penrose we met Mr and Mrs Bailey taking an evening ride -- Mrs B. (Ellen Maclean) was mounted on a magnificent horse - she looked very shy, Mr B. very happy! When we reacht Newmarket Blannie rode on home. I drove up the Khyber Pass Road and took Mrs Hovell to her daughter's school, kept by Mrs Krippner

1 December. After dinner Blanche, the two little girls and I started for town: however Blanche did not go further than the end of Parnell, the afternoon was so very hot. She and the two girls then returned home. I went to Mrs Krippner's to ask Mrs Hovell to accompany me and Mrs John Kinder to the Opera. Blanche went last week with Mr and Mrs J. Kinder and was so delighted that she insists upon me and Blannie going. Mr Hargreaves is to escort Blannie and me,

[Image of page 39]

Mrs J. K. and Mrs Hovell. Mrs H. was delighted with the offer: it was so unexpected. She went with me to the Lloyds', as our house at Parnell was too far to go to and back again for the Opera in the evening. Mrs Lloyd we found was also going: Blannie joined us about 6 when we had tea.

At half past seven Mrs Hovell and I started - we secured three very good seats commanding a good view and well placed for hearing. Leaving Mrs H., I went down to the entrance to await the arrival of the Parnell Albert cars: in one of which was Mrs J. Kinder. After we had been seated some 5 minutes Mr Hargreaves and Blannie came: fortunately they sat in the row immediately in front of us, so we could talk to one another. The Opera was Meyerbeer's Huguenots: the house was crowded and Lyster's company gave great satisfaction and they well merited the warm encomiums which were bestowed during its performance. A Mrs Escott in particular gave great satisfaction both in her acting and singing, and upon appearing before the curtain she was overwhelmed with bouquets which were thrown to her. I was glad Blanche had insisted upon Blannie coming; for strange to say, it was with some difficulty we persuaded her. When the Opera was over we walked back to Parnell, Mrs Hovell sleeping at our house.

2. After breakfast returned to Howick, Blannie on Hine. Mrs Hovell and I had Anne in the cart, who is the first instalment of the family return to Howick for the Xmas holidays.

5. Mr Becker with Charlie Hovell took the cart and Jerry to town to bring to Howick my boys and two of their schoolfellows, Harry Lloyd and Frank Andrews. I rode on Hine to Kennedy's farm to baptize Trust's two little girls. Thence I retraced my steps till I crossed the Maungamaungaroa Creek when I struck across the country to Otara and baptized two children belong to Mrs Wight. Here I staid tea: on my way back to Howick met Mr and Mrs Martin riding to their farm; told me that a Captain Travers had died suddenly from a fall from his gig and that Mrs Bailey (so lately married and so recently seen by us riding near Penrose with her husband and looking so well and happy) was dangerously ill. She is at her Mother's, Bleak House.

On reaching Howick found the boys had arrived. Mr Becker

[Image of page 40]

told me that on his way to town he had discovered that Jerry had severly cut his fetlock with a piece of glass.

6. Blannie very busy preparing eatables for a picnic we propose taking tomorrow. Blannie and I called at Bleak House: Ellen has had two Physicians from town. She is in imminent danger.

7. Mrs Hovell, Mr Becker and Charlie Hovell came to the Parsonage about 8 o'clock and soon after nine they and my two boys and their two friends - and myself - started in a large whale-boat for the Wairoa river: the owner of the boat was also with us. The sail was delightful, sufficient wind to fill the sails without listing the vessel too much: without the slightest mishap we reacht the upper part of the river, close to the Galloway Redoubt by 3 o'clock: so we had been six hours sailing. We were all eager for some dinner: we went to the stockade - now deserted except by Mr and Mrs Walker who received us mostly kindly and supplied us with plates, glasses, knives and forks, &c., and we were soon feasting upon the nice meat pie Blannie had made for us: after dinner Mrs Hovell and I walked to the Thorps' where I secured beds for myself and Mrs Hovell. After a short visit to their Orchard, the cherries just ripe, we returned to the Stockade: as we crossed the bridge we espied the boys bathing some little distance down the river: they soon joined us at Tea, which if possible was more merry than dinner. Mr Becker, his sister and I after tea visited a settler of the name of McNicholl: 24 this was a visit of policy on our part for it secured us an abundant supply of milk.

8. To Miss Thorp's great chagrin Mrs Hovell and I would not stay to breakfast but walked across to the Stockade: no one there but Mr and Mrs Walker, the latter being busy getting our breakfast ready: Mrs Hovell helped her. Mr Becker and the 5 boys soon made their appearance: they had been having a bath in the river. McNicholl sent several quarts of new milk "for the Minister", who however took very little of it. The boys had a long pull each at the jug. Becker as usual kept us in roars of laughter.

[Image of page 41]

We dined at 11: one hour and a half's steady rowing brought us to Salmon's farm; we called upon his headman, Edwin Roberts, and let the boys have a run for half an hour. Mrs H. and I visited the garden and had a feast on some magnificent strawberries. Mr Roberts was evidently afraid of allowing the boys a like privilege so they knew nothing of it till we had again started down the river, to their great disgust. About 1/2 past three we cleared the river and got out into the open bay - the wind was dead against us and it began blowing so hard and the waves to increase so much that Mr Becker determined to run ashore: we landed about 6 miles on the Wairoa [Bay] side of the native village of Maraiti. Here we left Atkins with the boat and showered him with all the provisions left, which he said were enough to last him a week: but we promised to send him a man to assist him to navigate the boat to Howick directly we got home.

We were now at least 24 miles from Howick: it was blowing hard - raining fast, and about 5 o'clock in the evening, so we started - with as far as I was concerned some queer feelings that we were in a dreadful mess unless we got some horses lent us from some of the sawyers at Maraiti. Fortunately the rain speedily ceased and after about 3 miles - wearisome ones to me for Charlie had to lean heavily on my arm, having cut his foot rather severely while bathing - we came to some sawyers' cottages and there we, fortunately, 1st secured a man to help Atkins with the boat tomorrow and 2nd a small rowing-boat to take Mrs Hovell, Charlie, Martin, Fred Lloyd and Charlie Hovell to Howick - a Swede by name "Hthorth" promised to row them. This was about 7. We, i.e. Becker, Frank Andrews and myself, did not stay to see them off but pushed on, for we had a terrible walk before us if we failed in getting horses. When we reacht Maraiti the Chief was in Auckland and none of the other Natives would lend us a beast, so we hurried on to Heckford's, the only other place where there was a chance of a lift -- but Heckford's was shut up - all away and no horses in the paddocks; we had to make up our minds for a night trudge to Howick.

It was eleven o'clock when we reacht Craik's, where we determined to rest. Craik and his sister had long since retired, but awoke at hearing the Dogs bark furiously - when I knocked at the door Craik exclaimed in a frightened tone:

[Image of page 42]

Who is that? - I said: Mr Lush, Mr Becker and Mr Andrews each wanting a glass of Whisky. -- Oh come in, come in, he said, opening the door and standing before us in his night-shirt and a large carving-knife in one hand; he had made sure we were Maories. He disappeared into his room and soon joined us, clothed and in a calm mind, and got us a tolerable supper, the best part being a tumbler full of good rum and water. I should have preferred the Scotchman's Whisky but he had none.

We had a little difficulty in rousing up the Ferryman on the Sandspit at Turanga Creek but at last reacht Howick - looked at our watches by the light of the moon - half past one --- walked to the Hovells' and to our dismay found that none of our party had returned. I said nothing but my heart sank within me: we walked on in silence till we came to the Parsonage: all seemed dark at first but as we stepped upon the Verandah a light gleamed through the fan glass over the door and Mrs Hovell opened the door to us - to our infinite relief. Instead of starting at 7 from Maraiti in the boat, they had not left till nine - in consequence of which they had not reacht Howick beach till 12 o'clock. They came straight to the Parsonage and found it locked up, Blannie and Anne having gone to sleep at Mrs Brathwaite's. Fortunately Mrs Hovell knew the hiding place for the house door-key and, more fortuntaely still, Blannie had left the key, so she opened the door and most thankful were they to get indoors.

9. Blannie and Annette came over from Mrs Brathwaite's about 8 o'clock: soon after breakfast Mrs Hovell and Charlie went home. My Charlie and Frank Andrews slept till about 12 o'clock.

10. No news of Atkins whom we left with his boat on the beach beyond Maraiti.

11. Mr Becker had determined to ride across the country to look after Atkins today, but about 8 o'clock he landed, having come along during the night.

19. Mamma, Edith, I and Mary Anne left Parnell about 3 o'clock: we got home at 6. We are once more all united

[Image of page 43]

in the old Parsonage at Howick. I hope we may have a pleasant Xmas - I suspect this will be our last in this house.

Not long after tea Becker returned. He was in good spirits for he found that his mother had just arrived and had sent her off at once to Howick in a hired dog-cart, and had seen her safely housed at Dr Hovell's, who had also just arrived from the Waikato, so there was a reunion there also - Mrs Becker who is 72 had not seen her daughter Mrs Hovell for nine years.

22. Blanche and I visited Mrs Becker and saw Dr Hovell.

24. Fine day promising a beautiful Xmas. Charlie and Martin accompanied to the beach for Pohutukawas (our Xmas tree - our substitute for holly). In the afternoon Miss Anlezark, Miss Peacocke and Blannie helped me to decorate the Church. We had 7 new chandeliers 25 put up so the building [was] looking very gay and pretty when all was done.

25. Went early to the Church to give the finishing touch to the decorations -- the East was very pretty: the congregation fair but hardly as large as I expected. We began the service by singing "Christians Awake". Mrs Brathwaite had dinner with us, our usual Xmas feast of roast beef - plum pudding - cherry pie and custards -- with two boiled fowls, potatoes (new) and peas.

29. Drove Blanche to Otahuhu and had tea with the Goulds: 26 poor man, like an English curate, a large young family (nine little children) and a small income.

30. Started for the Wairoa. Reacht Papakura shortly after 4: the weather being very sultry I made up my mind to stay the night there. Had tea (No. 1) at the Resident Magistrate's 27 and tea (No. 2) at my old friends the Wheelers' 28 where I asked for a bedroom: the musquitoes however kept me awake all night - shortly after 6 in the morning I got my first

[Image of page 44]

sleep, but a short one for I was up and at breakfast by half past seven.

4 January 1865. Took Blannie and Anne to town. Mary Anne Heath started with a cartload of "Things" a few hours before us. Merrill, who drove the cart, brought back the woman 29 who was taking care of our house. Called at the Cathedral Library and bought a Bible for Howick Church. Saw the Bishop and reminded him that 6 or 7 weeks ago I had spoken to him of the necessity I felt that I should have for the future the full scale of income - viz. £300 - and that he had stated that after Xmas he would be in a position to offer me something whereby I could be sure of receiving this amount.

At this time, 6 or 7 weeks ago, the Bishop's plan was, as he himself stated to me, that I was to have a new Church he was about to build near the cemetery, to be called St Sepulchre's, and that I should take turn about with him in visiting the Waikato. Today, however, he did not once allude to the new Church but dwelt chiefly - I may say entirely - on my (proposed) duties as an Itinerant Clergyman, but still nothing was permanently settled. From the Cathedral I went to his house and had dinner: met Miss Rye, 30 the lady of emigration celebrity. Hence I called on the Abrahams: being caught in a shower of rain as I passed Hunter, the Builder, I stept in and found him busy with some large drawing of a Church - asked him what Church it was: he said Mr Dudley's. - Which is Mr Dudley's to be, I asked. Judge of my surprise when he said - Oh, St Sepulchre's, the new Church up at the Cemetery.

I did not make any remark to him but I thought to myself that I was regularly sold - that the Bishop he preferred a very young man, and a Deacon only, to me. I then perceived the reason why the Bishop in his conversation this morning had not once alluded to St Sepulchre's Church in connection with my travelling duties about the country. I think it rather hard that after being 14 years in the diocese, never having thwarted the Bishop and having striven to content myself with £200 a year because of the smallness of Church funds when I could have insisted on receiving £300 a year, that when it

[Image of page 45]

was in the Bishop's power to give me a desirable parish near town, he passes me by. But that I must submit for an increase of income is now absolutely necessary to save us from being involved in inextricable difficulties.

10. Charlie, Martin and I started in the cart for Drury: Willie Hargreaves accompanied us on horseback: he and Charlie kept changing about, now driving, now riding. We took 3 meat pies, 2 loaves and 2 cakes, tea, sugar and salt: with two bottles of lime juice and water. We reacht Drury about 10 o'clock; the boys in the highest spirits - myself feeling as though I was half cooked, so scorched was my face with the burning sun.

At Drury the Bishop has a cottage of 3 rooms, furnished, for the use of any Clergy travelling up the country, so I went to the village store and got the key and took possession of this cottage: the boys quickly found out the knives, forks and plates, &c., and we sat down to our cold provisions with good appetites. After dinner, Charlie and Willie cleared away and washed up. We then started on foot for the Waihoihoi coal mines about 3 miles from Drury. Fortunately we found the Manager on the spot and by him we were shown the various mines which run into the side of a steep hill - into one he took us. We left our coats outside and making a good bend and often having to crawl along on hands and knees, we ascended the narrow subterranean passage some 300 yards. I was heartily glad when we emerged into the open air but was also glad that the boys had such a good inspection of the mines. The walk back to Drury was far pleasanter than to the mines for the evening was drawing in and it was cooler. Willie and Charlie acted as housemaids and got our tea: then we went to bed - but not to sleep - the musquitoes and sand-flies kept us all awake almost all night.

11. Another glorious day. After an early breakfast we put a portion of our provisions into the cart and set off for the famous Waikato River. Willie and Charlie rode in turns as before: we passed many of the scenes of the late warfare: and a succession of redoubts - all now abandoned except one and that is situated on the top of a high hill over which the road passes: this hill and the redoubt, by name the Razorback, was the scene of a sharp fight. I began to fear

[Image of page 46]

my horse would hardly accomplish the journey, the hill looked so long and steep.

When I got to the bottom of Pokeno hill - one mile long and very steep -- I pulled up and unfastened the horses and turned them into a paddock where there was a stream of water and a cow-shed, in which shed we had our dinner, thankful enough for the shelter from the broiling sun. We then walked to the Queen's Redoubt, the largest we had yet passed. This was garrisoned and the place was alive with soldiers -- we pushed on over some fields and through a wood, to the top of a high hill, whence we had an extensive and truly beautiful view of the Waikato. The boys were very delighted and so was I. We then walked on till we came to the Bluff stockade which overlooks the banks of the Waikato. This also was garrisoned. We staid about half an hour close to the river's side resting ourselves, and then resumed our walk back. Found horses, "Things" and cart all safe, and after a long drink at the foaming stream, we commenced the ascent of Pokeno Hill. Jerry did his work well and in four hours we got back to Drury - very tired but very much pleased with our "out". Our sleepless night last night and our fatigue today sent us all sound asleep tonight directly we got into bed in spite of musquitoes, sandflies and fleas.

13. Took Charlie and Martin to town. School begins on the 16th. After tea walked to the Lloyds' - caught them at tea. There was a small party, Mr and Mrs Sewell, Mr and Mrs Thatcher and Mr Swainson, so I joined them and made the number even. After tea a Mrs Bulkney (whose husband, a Major, lives at Government House), who acts the part of Hostess at Government House in the absence of Lady Gray [sic], came: she gave us the most exquisite singing during the evening.

When they were all gone I asked for a bed and while Mrs Lloyd was getting my bed ready (the servant was in bed and asleep) I had a talk with Mr Lloyd about St Sepulchre's and the Waikato. He thinks it probable that the Bishop did not consider St Sepulchre's would be worth my acceptance, and did not therefore allude to it again in my second interview: that the Church is to be built with borrowed money and all the income from seat rents and offertories they might raise for

[Image of page 47]

several years to come would be absorbed in paying off the debt and its interest: he also said Mr Dudley would be paid - not by St Sepulchre's for there would be no income for a clergyman from the Church - but be paid for his services as Secretary to the Bishop and to charitable funds and institutions. This statement placed the matter in a new light and I began to hope I had a wrong impression of the Bishop when I thought he had acted unjustly towards me.

23. Took Blanche, Edith and Edward to town. Went round by Penrose and dined with Mr and Mrs Bailey. Met the Revd Mr Wilson 31 and his bride - he is about 65 - she is about 30. He and his eldest son and his uncle (a Colonel Hawker) have married three sisters - so one sister may have to say to her younger sister: "Good morning, Mamma."

1 February. Drove Mr Becker and his mother to Hampton Park where the Woolfields live; Fanny Woolfield was to be married today. The little Church 32 had been prettily decorated, as had also the Verandah round the house, with ferns and flowers. We were the first guests but many others quickly followed, so that at half past 11 when we went into the Church the building was filled but not overcrowded.

We had an excellent dinner and plenty of toasts; afterwards took a stroll up the volcano 33 from which we had a magnificent view. So long as I have been here this is the first time I ascended the hill, and I doubt whether I should have gone now, had not Mrs Becker expressed a wish to reach the top and I could not but offer an old lady of 72 my arm. We had a very welcome cup of tea at 5 and, leaving Mr Becker there, Mrs B. and I drove home having spent a very pleasant day.

2. Walked as far as Bleak House on my way to the East Tamaki Heads - fortunately as I passed Bleak House Mr Maclean was reaching home on horseback, so I begged him to lend me his horse and I rode the remainder of the way. The lift was most agreeable as the weather just now is

[Image of page 48]

exceeding hot. I paid some visits and returned to Bleak House in time for dinner which was, as is usual there, a very good one.

15. We have been suffering from unusual heat. Edward is ill, we think from the oppressive weather: we are all wishing for rain and for some cool winds. Last Monday (the 13th) I took Mrs Becker into town. She remained at our house till I returned to Howick this morning. Yesterday Charles took her up to the top of Mount Eden - it was an exploit for an old lady of 72 years of age. About 7 o'clock had a Christening at the Church - the baby of the Shaws, my tenants of the farm: the baby's name was "Nimrod".

16-17. Spent visiting in the village - I have snapt a muscle or something at the back of the leg I broke years ago - the calf of my leg turned black: it is recovering its colour but my leg is so weak it is wearisome to walk about. The accident happened on the 13th in stepping out of my cart in town. This I deem a great misfortune since the Bishop wishes me to take the post of the "Itinerating" Clergyman. I hope that when the appointment reaches me I shall feel sufficiently strong to warrant my accepting it. Weather still hot in the extreme.

19 March. More than a month gone by and I have neglected my diary: not through forgetfulness of my sisters, but for the want of something worth recording. My life is so uniformly jogtrot-like and one week so much like another. At this present Blannie and Anne are staying with me. This may be their last visit to Howick and Blannie has been paying farewell visits and helping me to pack up.

Last night I had a letter from Captain Steele 34 who is stationed in the Waikato: he gave me an account of a visit he had paid to a native village to witness the Pai Mairire religion. He says: "it is pitiable in the extreme to witness these fanatics - it requires any one with strong nerves to keep countenance especially at the wind up of the performance. They stick a long pole in the ground then each one goes round sideways with his or her face to the pole, bowing and muttering; when enough worshippers have assembled to form a complete circle, one commences to chant (in this case William Thompson was the chief performer), holding up his

[Image of page 49]

right hand: all the rest join in the chorus holding up their right hands - this part is very good. When the chanting is over they commence walking briskly and talk the most outlandish gibberish that ever was heard: this part of the arrangement is laughable in the extreme: and in spite of their solemn faces I laughed till I had to lie down - that is what they call talking English. I asked several if they understood each other: they said no but by and by they would if they had faith."

This William Thompson 35 alluded to above is one of the most influential chiefs in the Waikato. Another party of these fanatics have killed Volkner, 36 a truly good Missionary, who only a year ago lived all alone in their Pah, nursing a large number of Maories through a terrible fever which had seized upon the Tribe: yet many of these same Natives whose lives Volkner had been instrumental in saving at the risk of his own life would not stir to intercede when he called upon them for help when these wretched fanatics seized him.

20 May. A boisterous and somewhat chilly day. Called at the Hargreaveses' - Constance is delighted at leaving Howick, she hopes to go on the 22nd: her Mamma and the rest of the children will leave soon afterwards. They have not had, I should think, a pleasant residence in the village: the Peacockes' pride and the Seddons' coldness 37 would help to make any one's stay unpleasant if they were, as the Hargreaveses are, of a sociable turn.

A hundred immigrants just landed have been sent here. The Government found them lodgings and give them rations for a time till they can be sent forth to their own grants of land.

21. As I was crossing the glebe to go from the Church to the Parsonage, I started no less than five Pheasants: this was before Church. After Church I flushed two more. After service at Otara I jogged into town and startled all the family by unexpectedly stepping into the Passage and calling to Charlie to take my horse. Blannie and Mary Abraham were at Church:

[Image of page 50]

I had hoped to have got to Parnell in time to take Charlie but was an hour too late.

23. Put my horse out to grass and sold my Cart and Harness for £15.

22 June. Called upon the Bishop who received me with, if possible, more than his usual kindness: he told me he wished me to preach my farewell sermon on Sunday week the 22nd July and to leave Howick on the 3rd. Returned to Howick in the evening.

23. Set off on foot for the Wairoa: had two rests on the way but it took me nearly 7 hours to reach the Thorps', tired enough.

24. Hampton Thorp lent me his pony - visited a sick man in the Stockade - rode to a new village which the Government are peopling with immigrants from Glasgow - all Presbyterians. So the Wairoa will still maintain its Scotch character.

17 July. A long interval since my last entry, but moving, packing up, and trying to resettle at Parnell must be my apology to my dear Sister for my neglect. I had asked the Bishop for a fortnight's holiday so I spent many quiet days with my family - but last Saturday left Parnell for my new missionary duties.

I have a very extended sphere, many stations indeed, that I shall in general be able to give but one service a month at each place. I rode 34 1/2 miles on Saturday to the Queen's Redoubt - a redoubt close to the Waikato: there on Sunday morning at 10 I had Service with the soldiers. Then I rode back 13 miles to Drury and had Service at 2 and another ride of 3 miles brought me to Papakura where I had my last Service at 4 o'clock. I slept at Papakura and returned here this morning and have been busy trying to get comfortable. The house I now occupy the Bishop calls the "Parsonage" Drury. It is a small 3-roomed house: each room is about 12 x 12; in the 2 bed-rooms there is an iron bedstead with two pairs of blankets to each and a counterpain - and mattress and bolster - in one of the bedrooms in addition to the bedstead, &c., there is a small wash hand-stand, basin,

[Image of page 51]

jug and two towels: in the sitting-room an inverted box serves as a table and then there are two chairs - 2 cups and saucers -- one or two knives and forks, 3 plates and milk jug and 3 or 4 tin canisters. This house and accommodation therein is what the Bishop estimates as sufficient for the wants of his clergy; and here I must make myself as "comfortable as circumstances will allow": they are certainly of such a nature as to make one appreciate what, after living here, I may well style the luxuries of home. So far it is an advantage to rough it as I am doing now.

18. Called upon three Church families in the village, then rode on 5 miles to Maketu: here formerly was a Maori village, and there are a great number of peach trees and fig trees still standing - all other indications of a Native settlement have disappeared and a large tract is divided out (into 5-acre allotments) among some 60 families who have emigrated from Africa (the Cape) and hence called by all their neighbours "the Africans", though they are mostly Irish. I promised to go once a month and give a week-day lecture. They seemed very thankful for my visit - I believe I am the first Minister that has visited them. One gave me my dinner about past 11 - cold roast mutton - another at 4 o'clock gave me hot buttered toast and coffee, so you see, I fare sometimes sumptuously even in the Bush, and though I now never dream of taking anything for the way when I start on my journeys, very rarely indeed have I had to go without my dinner or my tea. The Widow 38 who keeps the shop and the Post Office has now twice given me the milk for my tea: and breakfast too, for she gives me more than enough for the two meals. If I were a single man and lived here "among mine own people" I think I could put by three-fourths of my income. It is now four whole days since I left Parnell and I have spent but sixpence on any food: viz one 2 lb loaf: and yet, thanks to the pleasing hospitality of the people I have "good living" every day. Of course I cannot expect every ensuing 4 days to be like the last 4. My chief expense seems likely to be the Bishop's house: it has already cost me three shillings.

19. The first tolerably fine day for the last 6 or 8 weeks.

[Image of page 52]

After breakfast and after washing up and sweeping out of 3 small rooms, I started for another of the immigrant settlements about 9 or 10 miles from Drury. These people came in a vessel called the Bombay - so they go by the name of "Bombays". The Superintendent has located these people in the Forest: he employed the men in opening up roads through the Forest - one road about 3 miles long by two chain wide is completed and being in a straight line and with a gradual ascent for about 2 miles, I think I never saw so beautiful a vista through a mass of magnificent trees as presented itself to my view when I reacht the entrance of the Settlement.

On either wide of the road the Immigrants are to be located, each having 10 acres of land: many of them have cleared perhaps a quarter of an acre, some more - some only just sufficient to build a little hut. They are all at present living in huts formed of the huge leaves of the Nikau: they seem very contented - were evidently pleased to see a clergyman -- all but two are members of the Church. Of these one is a Scotch family and therefore Presbyterian and the other Irish and Romanists. The rest are from Dear Old England. One of the good people let me share their dinner: another family kept watch for my return from the further extremity of their long road, and had tea ready for me.

I visited 17 single men and 16 married people - in all I found there were already located there 75 souls - and as many more to come as fresh roads through the forest opened. Several of them asked me the Bishop's name, - and for three of them I had to write it down.

3 August. On the 25th of last month I left Drury and, making a stay at Papakura and Otahuhu, got to Onehunga where I had a night's lodging of the Purchases: Mr P. examined my chest and confirmed Dr Hale's report that my heart had no organic disease and he confirmed that my lungs were very sound. The next day I reacht home: the carpenters were very busy enlarging and, I think, improving the house.

Since the 25th ult. I have visited Turanga, Maraitai, Waikupa Creek and Howick, being every day on horseback and meeting every where with kind hospitality. Now I am again at home having arrived last night.

4. Took poor dear Charlie into Auckland: he seldom gets a

[Image of page 53]

long walk from home except when I can take him. Spent this afternoon with the three little ones in the garden. Edward asked his sister why a flower he had was called a Dandylion - Anne could not tell him but Edith was too talkative and imaginative to let the matter drop in that prosaic manner: she exclaimed, "Oh - I'll tell you - you see the 'thing' is a great dandy. It has a bright green silk dress on and a smart yellow cape and dark eyes - then it has a beard round it like a Lion - so it is called a Dandy Lion." Edward took it all in and said: Oh yes - I see. Even Annette I fancy was somewhat impressed with her sister's "learning" and "eloquence".

13. Morning service at the Mauku Church: 33 persons present, chaunting and singing without the aid of music. The building stands on a knoll in the midst of a valley surrounded more or less by the forest. The signs of the war are sadly disfiguring to it still: the thick posts which had been placed all around on the outside against the walls, as an additional protection against the Maori bullets directed against the Militia who at that time garrisoned the building, being still left - also all the loopholes have been unstopped. But Mr Crispe assured me that things would be in much better order when I came up next month. After Service rode back to Drury 14 miles. Put my horse in the Government stables and spent the evening at the Wheelers'.

14. After breakfast visited all (alas, but very few) of the members of our Church. These few are Englishmen, the rest of the community are Scotch and Irish - hence the circumstance of the great prevalence of Presbyterianism. Dined at the Wheelers' and rode back to "My Palace", Drury, in the evening.

16. A fearful night: the wind so high and storms of hail both frequent and heavy -- one so much so I feared my window would be smashed. The morning, however, as it advanced improved, so at 10 o'clock I started for Maketu which I consider the prettiest place I have seen, which is for me saying a good deal considering how highly I think of the picturesqueness of Howick. Though the day was dull and stormy the settlement looked charming and I turned several times as I left it to take another look. If I now had a good fortune

[Image of page 54]

I would build a Parsonage, Church and Schools there and settle down once more - but -. The people living at Maketu came from the Cape: I met one woman, young and by no means plain, who was an African and very dark, almost black - far darker than a Maori. She is married to an Englishman, can talk English very well and read and write: was baptized she told me by the Bishop of Capetown and was confirmed by him. I shall look after her, for she seems an interesting instance of a Kaffir conversion. Spent a pleasant day and notwithstanding sundry showers reached home without getting wet through. What would Blanche and my children say to my calling this house "home" - I must recall the word and call it my "Headquarters".

17. Spent the whole day visiting another immigrant settlement called Paparata. This has been a laborious day: the ride was 9 miles there, 18 in all. 39

17. Went to Paparata one of the new immigrant settlements: had my horse to the settlement, but the visiting was on foot - the roads through the forest where the people are located are in a frightful state: every step I took was over my ankles in sticky mud, so my progress was slow and wearisome. Baptized two children - found the poor people were very discontented and almost all wished they had never left the Old Country. Returned to my "Headquarters" very tired.

19. Rode to the Queen's Redoubt, 14 miles: called up on a respectable settler of the name of Martin. 40 (no relation to my old friends the Martins on the Tamaki). Here I was asked to join the family dinner and partook of some wild pigeons. I found them, though strangers to me and Wesleyans (as I afterwards learnt), very friendly, and begged me to call as often as I past their house.

Reacht the Redoubt about 5 o'clock: the Commanding Officer, Major Miller, was absent in town: but the Doctor and a Lieutenant [G. R.] Breton received me most kindly. At Mess at 1/2 past 6 we had soup - whitebait - eels and roast beef.

[Image of page 55]

20. Had Service at 10 - about 50 soldiers present.

21. Rode back to Drury where I staid sufficient time only to feed my horse and then set out for Waiuku: the track from Drury to Mauku was exceeding uninteresting and after two hours of most dull trotting I was thankful to reach Major Speedy, 41 who I found at home. Thence I pushed on to Waiuku.

Went to a Mr King's 42 house who gave me a kind welcome. Mr King's father landed in New Zealand along with Marsden: he himself was then but 18 months old. So, as he grew up he knew the Natives and the country long before the place was taken possession of by the English. His next younger brother was the first white baby born in the Island and he was baptized by Marsden in the presence of some 2000 armed warriors: the first baptism in New Zealand. He knows the Natives well and has now a good (Paying) situation as one of the Government Interpreters. He takes the same melancholy view of native affairs that Wilson does. He says he is quite sure if the troops are withdrawn that the northern natives will rise as the Waikatoes, and that there must be a war of extermination for mere self-preservation. I begin to be very thankful my wife and children are at Parnell.

22. After breakfast Mr King and I started for the Waikato Heads: we went over the country intending to return by way of the sea shore: the ride, about 14 miles, was very interesting, the country being dotted with patches of forest, the land diversified with hill and dale and in some of the valleys there were lakes full of water-hens and wild ducks. For more than half the way we saw no-one, then we came to a settlement of friendly Maories, and shortly after a newly formed settlement of lately arrived immigrants: we stopt not to speak to them but pushed on for the river. The last 3 miles were over some sand-hills, the far greater portion utterly bare of vegetation. The sand is of a light colour and sparkles in the sunshine and when ever we got into a hollow the heat was sensibly increased; in the height of the summer such hollows would be suffocatingly hot: these sand-hills are formed by the fine pumice stone dust washed down by the Waikato towards its mouth where it is

[Image of page 56]

caught up by the strong western gales and blown back from the shore to the neighbouring hills, where it has accumulated and gradually encroached upon the land, smothering all herbage and turning spots which many of the old natives can remember as being covered with grass into a wilderness of sand.

There are more than 1000 acres of these sandy hills. I was heartily glad when we reacht the bank of the river. Here there is a small shed for travellers to put horses in and a flag-staff to signal for a boat from the opposite side where "Port Waikato" is built. So we ran up the white flag and fastened up our horses, Mr King having very thoughtfully brought with him two feeds of oats and bran.

The river here is three-quarters of a mile broad: we soon saw the ferry boat push off from the opposite side. The men brought a horse over: the poor creature seemed tired with his long swim. "Port Waikato", 43 as the little new town is called, is entirely on the south bank: it is a long, scattered place - most of the houses very small and just now the place is dull through the removal of troops and the slackness of business.

The Resident Magistrate gave us a kind welcome - Mr [R. O.] Stewart: he showed us the new Church and then took us home with him to dinner; he lives about a mile from the town and we went in a canoe paddled by two Maories. His wife is a very handsome half-cast and he has beautiful children. We left directly after dinner, the Maories paddling us across to the flag-staff where we had left our horses. Homeward we went by way of the sea shore: this is the first time since I have been in New Zealand that I have ridden along the shore of the open ocean: at Howick the sea is but a portion of an immense bay, Hauraki Bay. It was dark when we reacht Mr King's house where a capital meat tea awaited us.

20 September. After breakfast cleaned up the [Bishop's] house and, leaving the key with Mrs Middlemass, started for the Wairoa. The house where I calculated on getting some dinner was empty! So I have gone dinnerless and having been riding, walking, visiting and talking since breakfast at 8, I am now (6 p. m.!) rather faint and decidedly tired, but my good host Golding, at whose house I have brought up for the night,

[Image of page 57]

is getting tea. My first quarter of my new Missionary life is all but completed.

21. Left Golding's at 10 o'clock, visited most of the Settlers on my way and arrived at Mr Richardson's 44 by half past 5. These people always receive me as a friend. Their house is - or rather was - in the depth of a dense forest: now the clearing around is considerable so that the forest trees don't come within 500 yards or more of the house on either side. The intervening space is for the present encumbered with half-burnt fallen trees, looking anything but picturesque. They keep no woman-servant, only a farm boy: Mrs Richardson is "Maid" and "Mistress" and "Servant of all work" but, tho' I took them unexpectedly at dinner, the table was laid out for the two as neatly as it would or could have been had they been living in town and kept two "helps": clean linen, silver forks - polished knives - handsome glass jug of water - joint of roast beef and a jam tart - I mention all this because the contrast to other houses in the forest where I go belonging to people far richer than the Richardsons is very striking, and the excuse for the higgledy-piggeldy style of serving up the meal is too often - "Oh, I know you'll excuse it - we are in the Forest - not in the Town": and so the habit grows up with the rising children till "anything will do for the Colonies" becomes a confirmed idea. Stopt at the Thorps' for the night: made myself useful to the young lady by taking a letter she seemed anxious about to the post: when I left her house curiousity impelled me to read the address - it was to her lover. When I reacht the Post Office, the Postmaster's 45 wife came out to meet me, with her baby in her arms, and what with admiring the decidedly pretty infant and the pleasure of receiving from the mother an unexpected letter from Blanche, I forgot Miss Thorp's love letter and carried it back to her house, much to the Lady's chagrine. However I pacified her by starting off on a second journey and assuring her it was safely posted at last.

23. Spent a long day visiting in the Wairoa and the new immigrant settlement of Otau where the peach trees are looking very beautiful, being covered with blossom: the native villages

[Image of page 58]

seem thickly studded with these fruit trees judging from Tuakau and Otau, both of which three years ago were favourite residences of a large number of Maories.

24. Service at eleven at Wairoa: congregation much better than of late: the Church was nearly full. Left immediately after Service for the Wairoa Road: on my way stopt at a newly erected house inhabited by Mr Wallis. Mrs Wallis had luncheon ready for me.

The congregation here too was better than of late, thanks to the fine day and the improved condition of the roads. Then for home, dear home, 24 miles - when I got on to the Great South Road I counted the mile-stones (or, as they are made of wood, I should say mile-posts) as eagerly as any schoolboy ever did returning home from school - but long before I got to Parnell it became too dark to see Posts or anything else - found all well and as glad to see me as I to see them.

27. Had a little party this evening, the "great man" of the evening being a Captain Speedy 46 who has lately escaped from King Theodore of Abyssinia: he is the tallest man I have seen - without shoes on standing six feet six inches and a half - in his boots 6 feet 7 1/2 inches! and stout and strong in proportion, a very Saul among his countrymen. He was the life of the party and entertained us greatly with his Ethiopian and Greek songs and anecdotes, &c.; Blanche got up one charade which Captain Speedy, Marcy Quintal (one of the Norfolk Islanders), Mary Abraham and Blannie acted very creditably.

30. Left home on the Bishop's own riding horse - Florence - the one I have ridden for the last 3 months is near foaling, so I am entrusted with Miss Florence. Rode to Otahuhu and called upon Gould. After dining at his home I rode on to the Martins' where I met Sir George Arney.

1 October. Afternoon service at Panmure - the little Church was so full that I had hardly room to stand. Then I rode on to Howick: on the punt Willie Heath overtook me: told

[Image of page 59]

me he had been to visit his sister (our servant) and had gone to St Mary's Church with her, and he added "after dinner, your house, Sir, was nearly burnt down": this took me all aback and though he gave but a confused account I learnt enough to know that some great risk had been incurred, but that the danger was all over - so I jogged on -- past through Howick without stopping - and pushed on for Mr Trice's on the further side of Turanga Creek.

2. On Florence rode up the valley -- my chief object being to look after the School and arrange that Mr Revell should act as Lay Reader on the Sunday that I am unable to be there - this I found was agreeable to the "people" - and I settled the matter with him. Returned to the Trices' for the night.

3. When I got home I found that the Sunday's alarm about the fire was really a very serious one. Soon after dinner, Charlie, who was sitting on the verandah's steps, suddenly said: Why Mamma - there is smoke coming out from between the boards of the cellar. She and Martin got the key and went into the cellar and found the smoke so dense they were obliged to leave. Mamma sent over for our opposite neighbour who came with his boy, a lad of 18, and they began to investigate the matter but could not find the origin, the cause of the smoke. Blannie who had gone into the cellar, determined to find out if possible where the fire originated, came rushing out saying she saw the flames creeping along the beams near the floor of the back kitchen - thither the man and the lad went and on removing a large, stout wooden box in which Mary Anne had put the ashes that morning, the bottom gave way and the flames burst through. Water was at hand and the fire was quickly extinguished. Mary A. ought to have emptied the box into the ash hole in the yard at once but had left them in the back kitchen which is over the cellar - the hot ashes had burned away the bottom of the box and then burnt through the floor, and just as Blannie saw the flames licking their way along the rafters of the cellar the fire, finding at last a vent or a little air, was gathering strength to burst forth. Half an hour - yea, a quarter of an hour longer, and I and mine would have been homeless and in beggary - but thank God the place was saved.

[Image of page 60]

6. Started on Florence for Drury.

7. Set off for Waiuku. Stopped at Major Speedy's on my way - got my horse fed and had dinner myself. Spent an hour helping the Major and his daughters slice potatoes! for the children who were dropping them into the furrows after the plough. They being short-handed and pressed for time, I volunteered and did a good hour's work: thus earning in part my dinner.

The roads are much firmer, the country looking more cheerful than when I took this journey last month. Called on Mr Bischoff who is one of the seven trustees of the Waiuku Schoolhouse: he told me that the building would be at my service tomorrow. Mr Philip King and his wife received me as kindly as before - at his house I shall generally take up my quarters.

8. Mr King had seen some of the Trustees of the School and he said there would be no difficulty in my holding Service there - so he and I started early but when we got to the building we found that the Wesleyans, who hitherto had held their class meeting at 12, had this morning chosen to hold it at 10. Eleven was the time fixed for the Church Service. Mr King, Mr Bischoff and myself remained outside till the "Class" broke up, when Mr Bischoff went in to tell Mr Rissworth I had come and wanted the use of the building. Mr Rissworth said he knew that, but that he was in possession and would not give up his right to the building, and that Mr King (the Lay Reader) had two services there in a month - that I ought to come on one of Mr King's days, &c., &c., &c. I begged Mr Bischoff to have no dispute with him and offered at once to adjourn to the Court House where I held Service - 16 persons being the whole of the congregation.

After service rode off to the Waikato Heads - went along the West coast. The sea was far from calm and the tide was in, and I greatly enjoyed the breeze and the spray and the roar, though in several places there was barely room to get the horse along between the steep cliffs on one side and the surging waves on the other. It was 1/4 to 1 when I left Waiuku and 1/2 past 3 when I reacht the School-house at Port Waikato - having kept the congregation 1/2 an hour: not so much my fault as the ferryman's who was slow in coming across

[Image of page 61]

for me and slow in towing my horse across. I sent Florence to a Mr Spargo's paddock.

There were 60 people assembled in the Church or rather School-house: this building belongs to us - so, though we allow Mr Rissworth to use it when he visits Port Waikato and also Mr Eccles the Presbyterian, there was no difficulty as to my occupation this afternoon. I had a Churching and a Christening. I spent the evening at Mr Stewart's house - his wife, a pretty half-caste, has her hands full just now for Mr Stewart's brother's wife having just died, she has his three young children in addition to her own, and a young brother ill with a horrible scrofulous leg which must by and by be cut off. I pitied the poor woman - there was no other house to which I could have gone to stay, though I doubt whether Mr Stewart would have allowed me to have done so, had there been one.

9. Paid a visit to Florence, for I knew not whether Spargo understood whose horse (viz. the Bishop's) it was and whether therefore he was willing or not to keep it. All was right however, and he extended his hospitality to me likewise, begging me to come and take a bed in his house when I came next to Port Waikato.

Mr Stewart and his brother and two natives took me up the River to Kohanga, 47 Dr Maunsell's Mission Station: all the buildings are fast going to ruins and the Station presents the most neglected and melancholy aspect you can conceive. Mr Harold Fenton and his wife occupy temporarily two or three rooms - excepting for them and two or three natives the place would have been deserted. When the war commenced there were more than 200 souls and the same sad consequences of this miserable war can be said, I believe, of every other Mission Station throughout the country; there are but 2 or 3 Missionaries remaining among the natives - Dr Maunsell, Mr Grace and Mr Ashwell are living in Parnell - Mr Volkner is killed - Mr Landfear in England, Archdeacon Williams and his father Bishop Williams aliens from the diocese of Waiapu and now refugees at the Bay of Islands. The only Missionaries as far as I know at their posts, the same they held before

[Image of page 62]

the war, are Archdeacon Brown at Turanga [Tauranga] and Mr Burrows at Waimate.

We had the wind dead against us in returning and the pull was both long and hard: we got housed however before dark, and well that we did for soon after sundown the rain came down heavily.

10. Went up-stairs to see Mrs Stewart's brother, a handsome dark boy of about 12, but with such a leg - it nearly made me sick to look at it. After breakfast visited some of the Church members, then went across the river in the ferryman's boat. The ferryman had previously taken Florence across at dead low water, so that she might have the least possible distance to swim. The tide was now rapidly rising and as I rode the 6 miles along the beach I was in one place compelled to strike inland for a short distance, the tide was too far in to allow me to keep the shore. However I reacht Waiuku in safety.

12. Remained inside all day - both man and beast being very glad of the rest. I am obliged occasionally to take a Sabbath during the week for on Sunday I am as hard worked, generally speaking, as I well could be.

14. Started for the Queen's Redoubt, visited Paparata on my way - distributed medicine to some folk ill with chronic complaints: reacht the Redoubt about 5. The Major (Miller) received me with his wonted kindness and I spent a pleasant evening - the Mess is reduced very low - there were but Major Miller, Dr Lamb and myself.

27. Rode to Tuakau: went by (to me) a new route: when I reacht that part of the Great South Road called Shepherd's Bush I struck off in a South-west course and went through a new settlement called Tuhimata, thence through Pokekoe [Pukekohe] and so on to Tu-a-ku. A portion of my way was through a magnificent forest: the whole country beautiful and the soil to all appearance fertile.

As I was passing through strangers I began to fear I should go without my dinner and seeing that I had breakfasted at 7 when 2 o'clock came I was very hungry - however He that feedeth the ravens provided for me - I saw a man cutting down a tree and cooied to him, intending to ask my

[Image of page 63]

way, when he exclaimed: "What, can it be Mr Lush?" He was an old acquaintance from the neighbourhood of Howick, and of course nothing would satisfy him but that I must come in and share his dinner. "All in the rough", as he said, "but never mind, Sir, I give you a hearty welcome." And verily it was in the rough - the salt in a paper package: the pepper in a soda-water bottle - one spoon for sugar, and stirring up the tea and to serve me and him. A piece of cold meat, but whether veal - pork - mutton or beef I could not tell and did not like to ask - and soda-bread - but rough as it was I really made a hearty meal and seldom have returned "Thanks" more sincerely. The knife and fork with which I ate served also to carve and the same with his, the meat being placed just between us. I thought of the Arabs helping themselves from the Dish though we were a degree better, as we did not use our fingers. Yet this young man was brought up well - his father lived in the Neighbourhood of Dublin and drove to his office in Dublin and back in his own carriage.

18. Awoke early this morning from a terrible thunder-storm accompanied with torrents of rain: as I turned round in my small snug bed I could not help being thankful circumstances had occurred yesterday which prevented me from carrying out my intention of sleeping at Tuakau - for had I done so instead of my water-tight and snug bed-room I should have been lying in a tent on a bundle of fern and wrapped in a blanket - and perhaps awoke with finding my bed floating in a puddle - however I was spared that trial.

1 January 1866. Began the year at the Trices': after breakfast left for Parnell; found a somewhat sick house, Mamma suffering from sore throat, Martin from a severe cold and Charlie worse than usual. So the year 1866 begins rather clouded for us: we must hope it will end more brightly.

4. Took Blannie, Anne and Martin to St Matthew's Church to hear the new Organ, a fine and powerful instrument which has cost near upon £500. On returning home Charlie, Martin, Edward and I took a stroll along the railway to see the progress made - which is miserably slow. 48

[Image of page 64]

6. Left Drury for Mauku: went round by the Grange to see Major and Mrs Speedy: dined there. Their son Alfred has met with an accident, having nearly destroyed his throat by a gun which had the remains of a charge in it suddenly exploding in his mouth as he was blowing down the barrel.

8. Staid last night at the Wheelers' -- the musquitoes during the night were very troublesome, and they and my fatigue kept me awake almost all night. Visited the Wairoa Road district to help forward if possible the erection of a School Teacher's residence. Got back to Drury about 8 o'clock in the evening tired and, what is unusual, hungry also. Having had no dinner, went to the village shop for some bacon but to my dismay heard they had not any! So I had to content myself with bread and butter. But bread and butter and tea, three times a day -- for breakfast, dinner and tea - is at least once too often.

9. Called on the Worthingtons and heard a lamentable account of the annoyance the Musquitoes cause them, getting no rest during the night and but little during the day - for they crawl up the legs, they enter your ears, they buzz round the tip of your nose, and in short they drive an irritable person half mad.

10. Too hot to stir out - remained in-doors bathed in perspiration. In the evening rode to Maketu. Mr Donaldson, a strong man, said he had tried to work as usual and had been taken ill from the excessive power of the sun. Staid tea with a Mr Carr and rode back to Drury by starlight - there was no moon but the stars were so bright that my body and the horse threw a faint shadow on the road as I jogged along.

11. After a good breakfast, bacon and lettuce, &c., rode on to the village of Papakura where I met Miss [Frances] Haselden and her brother - they were in an American waggonette and I rode with them to the Wairoa Road where I established the young lady at the lodging I had secured for her at Mr Golding's. She seemed so thoroughly discontented with all around her, that I fear she will not remain.

14. Second Sunday after the Epiphany. Immediately after Service I and Miss Angelina King and Mr Fred Hamlin

[Unpaginated illustration]

[Unpaginated illustration]

[Unpaginated illustration]

[Unpaginated illustration]

[Image of page 65]

started for Port Waikato. Miss King and Fred seemed to be on such good terms that, pretending the dust from their horses incommoded me, I took care to let them ride by themselves - I following a long way behind in their wake. In attempting to swim all three horses after the boat across the Waikato, Hamlin's horse got restive and then turned sulky and refused to swim and we had to tow him after us, with great difficulty keeping by main strength the brute's head out of the water. The other two horses we had to let go free - fortunately they did not turn back but swam the right way, towards the Township.

The Pilot Master, Captain Breton, seeing something was wrong had come off to our help in his boat and he and his man captured the two horses as they gained the opposite shore.

We had tea at Captain Breton's: Miss King went home with Mr and Mrs Stewart, Hamlin went to the Hotel and I went for the night to the old Mission house where years ago Maunsell lived when he commenced his Waikato missionary labours among the natives: this house and the adjacent farm is let to a man of the name of Spargo.

15. Not troubled during the night by Musquitoes - Miss King was - so was Hamlin - curious that in the same village they should infest some houses and not others.

Went to the School and examined most of the children: Mr and Mrs Stewart, Miss Hamlin [King?], Dr Codrington, Mr Spargo and others were present. This occupied our time till dinner, which we had at Mr Stewart's. Hamlin in the mean-while had taken his horse across, so that when we left after dinner we had but two horses to manage and got across without any risk. As we rode off, up the sand-hills, on our way to Waiuku, the Prince Alfred steam-ship sailed into the harbour - she was expected with 120 immigrants.

16. The Kings' house swarms with musquitoes, but as I slept under a musquitoe curtain I slept unmolested.

5 February. On Monday the 29th I returned again Home and remained in Parnell till the 2nd of this month when I started a three weeks' journey. Instead of going on straight for Drury, I turned off the Great South road westward, a little beyond Papatoitoi, and made for the Karaka: a considerable

[Image of page 66]

branch of the Manukau has to be crossed but a ferryman being stationed there by the Government there was no difficulty, my horse being well accustomed to swim.

About a mile from the further side of the ferry lives a Mr Urquhart. 49 I had never seen him or his family and I was most agreeably surprised to find - in the far wilderness you might call it - a thorough English Gentleman's residence and grounds: beautiful gardens, a capital house, and the whole establishment kept up in as good a style as it would be possible to see in a wealthy gentleman's house in the country of England. Mr Urquhart asked me to sleep there, which I gladly did, for I doubt if I could have reacht Mauku before dark, and the intervening country was new to me. I had a luxurious bed-room and a good night's repose.

Left after breakfast - a breakfast which reminded me of Ewelm [sic] - and took my new route to Mauku. Before I left however I agreed to hold service in Mr Urquhart's drawing-room on the afternoon of Good Friday and administer the Holy Communion. About half an hour after I left it commenced raining and ceased not till I had got to the Crispes': their hospitality was as hearty and sincere as Mr Urquhart's. Spent the afternoon visiting the outsettlers.

6. Spent a quiet day in Drury - man and horse both glad to have a "Sabbath" - though it be the third day of the week instead of the first.

7. Rode to Maketu: the immigrant settlement I like best. This place was, before the war, a Maori village: the natives had planted here a large quantity of peach trees - where the largest number were placed the Superintendent had the ground fenced in and a garden formed, where vegetables and seeds were raised for the immigrants' use, till such time as they would have a supply from their own lands. These peach trees are now (Feby) in full bearing and such a quantity of peaches I never beheld. They were lying upon the ground beneath the trees in hundreds and the branches were weighed down to the earth by their loads of fruit - last Saturday the head "ganger" as he is called - Mr Donaldson - began to distribute the peaches to the immigrants - he gave away "35

[Image of page 67]

hundred" and will give that quantity away twice a week till they are all gone - but it will take some weeks to exhaust the supply. All the trees are standards and as large as large apple trees in England. The new School-house, in which some day I hope to hold Service, is being put up.

8. Started for Tuakau: stopped at the Paparata settlement on my way. It was evening before I got to Tuakau - most of the people are still living in tents. Mr Benjamin Harris had promised me a lodging so I rode to the place where he put up. It was, I found, a long corrugated-iron store divided into two rooms by a low partition: the first was furnished with a counter and served as a shop, and was crowded with Groceries, stores, &c. - the hinder room served as a Kitchen and eating room and sleeping room: I wondered where I was to sleep but kept my wonderment to myself. Tea was finished, but they made fresh for me. Mr Harris apologised for want of meat, but there was none to be got so I made my dinner and tea off cucumber, onion, bread and butter and honey: a funny compound, washed down with three cups of very indifferent tea.

As the room was swarming with musquitoes I turned out for a stroll by the banks of the Waikato river - about nine o'clock Mr Harris came and said my bed was ready: he took me into the iron store, into the room behind and pointing to one end of a bunk that ran the whole length of the room, said I could sleep there. One man was already in bed and apparently asleep on the opposite end, so that his feet would be liable to touch my feet if we stretched out. There was no use being particular so I undressed and got between the blankets - or rather railway rugs - (sheets seemed unknown) and pretended to fall asleep - for sleep was out of the question, the smoke from the pipes and cigars combined with attacks of fleas and musquitoes kept me wide awake. Before long no less than six men had settled down in this small room for their night's rest - and rest they seemed to get judging by the steady snoring of my immediate neighbour. I was very thankful to see the returning light of day for I knew that the end of my purgatory was drawing nigh. When he moved all moved, and I soon had an opportunity of slipping on my things and getting once more into the bright clear, wholesome

[Image of page 68]

atmosphere, out of doors. We breakfasted at 7 - again no meat, which I missed not having had any last night, but such as they had the good people gave me cordially so I took the will for the deed and was thankful.

9 March. About 8 I started for the village [Maketu] and went to a half finished School-room and there met a small party who had brought three infants to be baptized: after the Service I walked about two miles to a cottage, where in the open air but under the shadow of some nikaus, I baptized two more infants. On returning to the half-finished School-house I found another party waiting for me with two more infants; so through a slight mistake in the Superintendent's not giving sufficient notice of my intended visit I had to go through the baptismal service three times. The people generally seemed much disappointed I could not stay to give them an Evening Service - or what they described as "a Preaching" - but I had a funeral at Pokeno 5 miles off. On my way thither I passed numbers of peach trees, nobody's property, growing wild, and from one of these I got some 6 or 7 fine ripe ones which, with some bread I most fortunately had in my valise, made my dinner.

11. I had a trying ride to Port Waikato: rain, wind most of the way. A little wind is pleasant but when it is so violent as to nearly blow you off your horse it is very fatiguing and such was the wind today.

12. The only visit I made was to the Spargoes' and that more to enquire for my good horse Florence than to see Mr and Mrs Spargo. However I had a long chat with her and speaking of Maunsell and Ashwell leaving the Waikato and giving up all Missionary work among the natives; she told me it was not so much a voluntary withdrawal as compulsory, for the Natives would never forgive them for leaving them at the commencement of hostilities and ministering to the soldiers, and that when Dr Maunsell and his wife and family returned to Kohanga, all the natives forsook the place, and his daughters had to fetch the water and the Dr to chop wood: in fact they had no one to assist them. So when Mrs Maunsell died shortly after, the Doctor made that an excuse for

[Image of page 69]

abandoning the station. And Kukutai, 50 the great Chief, had written to Ashwell when he (Ashwell) wrote and told him he was about to return to his native work, and warned him not to come, or if he would come, "not to go out sight of the steam-boat that brought him".

13. While at breakfast the Revd Joshua Te Moanaroa - he is a native chief and a Deacon 51 - arrived from Kohanga. The Bishop wrote to him last week to desire him to meet me here, today, and to accompany me to Raglan as protector and guide. Mr Stewart also decided to go with us the first 20 miles to Marotapu. We got off about 9 o'clock: the country along the west coast (we were seldom out of sight of the sea) is very much broken so we had a series of steep descents and precipitous ascents and our progress was necessarily slow. It was half past four before we reached Marotapu but at a place called Kawa, a native village, we had stopped two hours in the middle of the day: here the natives gave us up a small hut in which we sat and ate our dinner - bread and butter, peaches and sardines, washed down with wine and water. Our horses too had a good feed of bran and oats, for this happened to be Joshua's halting place when on his Ministerial tours and he keeps here a chest of corn for his horse.

The huts, though looking very picturesque as we winded down the hill on our approach, were on a nearer inspection very old, very dirty and very offensive to the nose and for some time Mr Stewart hesitated about entering one - but Joshua seemed to wish it, and the inside was cool. Marotapu where we pulled up for the night was a larger and a cleaner native village, and the chief gave up to Mr Stewart and me his own whare, a comparatively new one, and two clean looking mats spread out at each end for our two beds: here after waiting some time a native woman brought a small kit of hot potatoes and on the top a large crayfish -- also a kittle [sic] in which they had boiled some tea. Our pocket knives were speedily in requisition and cutting the crayfish in two we each took half and fed with our fingers, taking fish and potatoes in our hands. Fortunately we had some sugar with

[Image of page 70]

us; otherwise I don't think I could have drunk the strong decoction of tea.

Then the wahine brought us some peaches and while we were finishing them Mr Stewart proposed we should go to their evening [Service]. It was held in a large building, the Town hall, the Assembly room of the village. In the middle was a candle stuck in a black porter bottle with "Guinesses Stout" on the table outside: the natives were grouped in a large circle, all squatting, sitting or reclining. I sat down next to Te Moanaroa and Stewart along-side of me: Joshua read the Psalms for the evening, a good many voices joined in the Gloria Patri - then he read a selection from the prayers. This over we wished them goodnight and the Chief, with considerable courtesy in his manner, conducted us back to the whare where, after our own service, we blew out the candle and lay down --- not to sleep - the fleas, musquitoes and the constant chattering in the neighbouring huts kept us wide awake.

14. Up at daybreak, not feeling much refreshed by our night's rest - such as it was. At ten o'clock we reached Rangikako, the largest native village I have yet seen; here Joshua Te Moanaroa was born and here his mother still resides, and as he belongs to the Chief's family and is himself almost at the head of his tribe, the natives were very pleased to see him and gave us a cordial welcome. As we entered the large enclosure around which the whares are built I was rather startled at seeing in one [corner] a coffin-like box, covered with two black shawls and [on the] shawls, looking very ghastly and grim, two skulls, and [in front] some twenty natives squatted on the ground in a semicircle, keeping up an incessant melancholy howl: this they call holding a tangi or "a cry" over the dead, the dead in this case being the bones of a Chief called Tamati Timone, who died on the 8th of last February far away up the Waikato, and the natives of this village being his relatives had gone hither to collect his bones in order to bury them with the bones of his ancestors - preparatory to which they were having their tangi.

After giving my horse to a native lad, I walked into the largest whare and there, just opposite to the entrance, sat the Chief on a large, clean mat. He held out his hand for me

[Image of page 71]

to shake and then motioned me to sit on his mat by his side. Joshua Te Moanaroa came in soon after and sat on the other side: he and the Chief were soon in animated converse and I looked around me: there were about 8 women in the whare and several children, but all, excepting one woman, in utter idleness - lying about in groups, now and then talking, more generally smoking. The one exception was the best-looking woman of the lot: she sat in one corner by herself and was busy with a needle and thread, patching and mending some garment. I afterwards heard that she was the Chief's wife.

After a time I went out to look around me - the whares I noticed were built in the form of a double quadrangle. One which I peeped in at full of people of both sexes and all ages, hard at work "gambling" - they seemed vexed at my catching them at it, so I withdrew and continued my inspection. I returned to my seat in the Chief's whare and after a weary hour or more a can of milk was placed at our feet and then two baskets of smoking hot potatoes and a kit of pork and shark's flesh. I was effectually cured of all desire to eat but wished, and wished in vain, that Te Moanaroa would leave, but he was deep in the basket of potatoes and fried pork and, after a good dinner, collected all the people together and held a very animated discourse: at first I thought he was preaching but as he made them all laugh now and then I found out by close attention that he was narrating events connected with the war. After wasting some 5 hours in this settlement Te Moanaroa started.

We had not above 15 miles to reach Raglan and as the road was far better than the one we had travelled over yesterday we made good progress and reached the banks of the creek, on the opposite side of which Raglan is built, a little before sundown. After some little delay a man from the Raglan side came across in a boat, and wishing Moanaroa goodbye I swam my horse across the creek about a 3 of a mile wide. I went, as Mr Stewart advised me, to a Doctor Harsant 52 but to my distress found his house shut up, all the family having gone to a farm his eldest son has some 6 miles to the south. For a time was sadly at a loss what to do - night coming on - but at last I took a letter Dr Codrington gave me as I was leaving Port Waikato, directed to Captain

[Image of page 72]

O'Shaughanessy, to the Captain's house and without reading the letter, when he heard I was a clergyman of the Church, he gave me a cordial welcome and took me up to the Redoubt near to which was an empty Raupo cottage which a Captain had lately vacated, and this he had immediately fitted up with bedding - washing-stand - and a large bath-tub - and told off a private to wait upon me so long as I was in Raglan.

After arranging my things in my new temporary home and indulging in a most refreshing bath, I went down to Captain O'Shaunghanessy's house and was introduced to his wife and two little daughters, and a Lieutenant Cooper. He, Cooper, asked me to join him at the Mess, as Captain O'S. had already dined and he and an ensign of the name of Higg were just about to have dinner. So I went off with Cooper, who told me he had recognised my horse as the Bishop's Florence and had, out of the great love he had for the Bishop, taken her under his special charge so long as I remained in Raglan! He spoke most warmly in the Bishop's favour - said the Bishop had nursed him through a dangerous illness during the war: and wound up with a long flourish by declaring he would canonize him at once, if he had the power: so I saw that Florence at all events would be well cared for, if not for my sake, certainly for the Bishop's.

Cooper introduced me to Mr Higg and we sat down to a capital dinner, though not quite in the style of the Queen's Redoubt dinners - still I, who had eaten lobster the evening before with my fingers, thought the present meal a vast improvement. Cooper escorted me to my Raupo hut - where I had a glorious night's rest - no fleas, no musquitoes, no smoke, no noise. Private Lumber came the next morning about 7 o'clock - cleaned my boots, made my bed and swept out my room then filled my bath and left the hut looking neat and comfortable.

Went to breakfast at the Mess: then remained in my own hut writing to Blanche, till 2 o'clock when I went and dined with the O'Shauganessys. After dinner the Captain took me in his boat to call upon Mr Smith and Mr Schakenburgh, the two Wesleyan Ministers. On Sunday morning, in order that I might have the place to myself, when we reached the Wesleyan Mission station Smith was away. The Captain was pleased inasmuch as it saved him from marching the men to

[Image of page 73]

the Court House had Smith refused, for there I had at first made up my mind to hold my morning Service. The evening I spent at a Captain Hamilton's, Resident Magistrate.

16. Breakfasted at the Hamiltons': afterwards he accompanied me a long ride into the country to call upon the Settlers; among others I called on the Harsants and heard that the Doctor had returned to the Township, so again I missed seeing him. But his wife and family were at their country house and I agreed to come on Sunday afternoon at 3 o'clock and hold service in their drawing room. The Harsant farm, called Waitepuna [Waitetuna], is 6 miles from Raglan. The country about Raglan is broken but good in quality and picturesque. I was pleased with my ride, that lasted all day, not reaching the town till dusk. Lumber was waiting at my hut to take my horse and after a wash I walked down and had tea and spent the evening at the Hamiltons'.

18. Breakfasted with Dr Harsant: he was alone. After breakfast baptized a child. At eleven went to the Chapel - the place was full, so full that Captain Hamilton and Doctor Harsant had to return home, not being able to get in. There was a large party to the afternoon Service, nine equestrians altogether: Captain Hamilton's servant rode by the side of the Captain's little boy, a fine lad of eight years old. We had a pleasant ride and found a goodly number of persons already assembled so that the drawing-room was inconveniently crowded. Our party, i.e. we who had ridden from the town, staid tea. Mrs Harsant is a very pleasant lady - there are 5 daughters and three sons. Returning home I was far from well and had to get to bed as quickly as I could.

19. To my dismay heard it raining fast when I awoke. At 5 o'clock Lumber came and said he presumed I would not start as it was wet: but I told him I must and he went down for my horse. I wrapped up well, and fortunately about 6 o'clock the rain ceased. Captain Hamilton was up and had breakfast ready for me when I reacht his house, so I managed to get fairly away by 1/2 past 6. The Captain provided me with two slices of bread, two hard-boiled eggs and a small bottle of brandy, and would have loaded me with provisions had I not stoutly refused. It had been arranged that the native

[Image of page 74]

deacon Joshua should be waiting for me at Rangikaho, a native Kaianga about 15 miles north of Raglan, and that I might reach this village in safety, Captain Hamilton ordered one of the policemen, a native, to ride with me as far as that village.

We had a little trouble in getting the horses across the creek, but that done we started and soon, to my dismay, I found the native did not know the way as he had never travelled north of Raglan before! However without any very serious mistake in missing the right track, we got to Rangikaho about 1/2 past ten; and to my extreme annoyance found that Joshua had gone to the next Kaianga about 8 miles further north. So after a rest I persuaded Akaroa, the policeman, to accompany me thither and again we started.

After a few miles we went astray and wandered three miles out of the right track - some natives whom we met set Akaroa right, but this detour of 6 miles was a sad loss of time and strength - for I was most anxious to reach Port Waikato before dark as I was by this time wet through, it having rained heavily ever since about 7 o'clock. At last we reached Kawa where I fully depended on seeing Joshua, but the natives told us he had gone on to the Waikato! Akaroa's horse was by this time so knocked up that it would not stir, so I was quite nonplussed as to what I could do, for I did not choose to adventure through such country without a companion: but by taking out my purse and promising to pay him well Akaroa, tired as he was, poor fellow, agreed to come on with me on foot. This, though satisfactory in one way, was unfortunate in another, inasmuch as I could not avail myself of the few places where I could have gone faster than a walk and our progress was necessarily very slow: and I began to have serious fears lest I should be out all night.

The evening was drawing in fast and the native, Akaroa, was evidently doubtful of the way - it was certainly not the path I have travelled to Raglan - fortunately we met some Maori children and one, a bright lad of some eight years, clad as far as his shoulders and waist were concerned in an apology for a shirt but innocent of clothing as far as the rest of his body, agreed to guide me to the next Kaianga - so my guide, the second time today, wanted a guide himself. The road was too precipitous and broken to sit on horse-back so I asked Akaroa to lead Florence, and I followed as close as

[Image of page 75]

the ruggedness of the path, and the darkness, would allow. At last when I began to feel rather down-hearted, I was delighted with the gleam of fires and the row of many voices, Maori-like, all chattering together.

Who should come forward directly I alighted but Joshua, with, "Is that you, Mr Lush?" I was so pleased to see his brown face and hear his English salutation that all my anger against him, for as I considered his abandoning me, passed away, and I asked to be shown into some whare - for he assured me it would be impossible to go on any further, as I at first suggested to him.

He took me to his wife's sister's whare: it was a tolerably large one, beautifully finished off in the inside with straight and smooth reeds placed close together and here and there stained in various patterns. I counted nine rifles hung up around the walls - a quantity of clothing for both sexes - among the lady's apparel a huge crinoline! A looking-glass and a clock! But all of this I did not see immediately - what I did see at once were 7 or 8 people, men and women squatted round a fire smouldering in the middle of the room - most of them smoking, filling the whare with smoke, but there was no help for it and in I went - shook hands with all round, squatted down before the fire and began to divest myself as far as I could - as my modesty would allow - of my very damp clothes. But seeing some young women looking at me I could not get rid of so many things as I could have wished and retained my damp shirt and decidedly wet trousers. Another time if I am in such a predicament again I will think of my own health first and modesty afterwards, and strip and roll a blanket round me in true Maori fashion - but I was at present "fresh" to my new situation. I soon had some potatoes and boiled tea and ate all 3 of the former and drank two pannikins of the latter, and then lay down on a sort of stretcher which one of the women pointed out to me. As I lay I had an opportunity of looking around - close by me a young man and woman were in bed together, smoking short pipes: close by them sat a venerable old native, talking sometimes to one and then to another - round the fire was a mother and some nearly full-grown children - and behind this group there were some men who had laid down in their clothes and appeared fast asleep. After a time Joshua came

[Image of page 76]

in and shared my bench - no very agreeable acquisition for his clothes were more than damp from standing out in the rain, for the evening had set in wet, and uncomfortable as I was I was thankful I was where I was, rather than exposed as I might have been to the storm now raging outside.

At last in spite of spiders, fleas and endless chatting, I fell asleep - to awake with a feeling that I was in a sort of vapour bath - but everything has an end and directly it was day-light I woke Joshua and begged him to get my horse ready. There was some trouble in finding Florence so that when at last caught and saddled all the dwellers of the village were assembled to see me off, most of them in sad deshabille - however I wished them all adieu as politely as if they had been well-dressed ladies and gentlemen for they had done their best to shelter me and what could I expect more? Fortunately two of them were going to Waikato and agreed to show me the way - I saw nothing of Akaroa or the native child who travelled with me last night.

We had one slight shower and reached Maraiti, as the Spargoes' place is called (the old Church Mission property at the mouth of the Waikato), about 1/2 past 7. With what I had had before my eyes for the last 24 hours this place, as I told Mrs Spargo - seemed almost like home. She got me a cup of warm tea immediately and some cake - then I had a good wash and a change and sat down with the family to breakfast: which I need not say I thoroughly enjoyed. Mrs Spargo asked me to ride to Maioro tomorrow to marry her eldest son - so I agreed to remain at her house all today and thought I could read and sleep as I felt inclined - but not so. Mr Stewart who had heard of my arrival sent word that there was a very large assembly of natives near Kohanga - at Taupari, Walter Kukutai's village - and that he, Mr Stewart, Dr Codrington and Mr Lawrence and Hewett were going at once and begged of me to join them.

As it was a boating excursion I determined to go - for my poor horse would still be resting. We had a delightful sail up the river - wind and tide both in our favour, and just as we landed no less than ten large canoes filled with natives - there must have been 200 in all - came out of the creek we had just entered and passed down the river towards Port Waikato. It was a very pretty sight and many notables were

[Image of page 77]

pointed out to me - Whero Whero among others - the greatest of all the Waikato chiefs, and a fine-looking man he seemed. I espied among them an old white man and was told that he was Mr Armitage's wife's father. Armitage was one of our fellow passengers in the Barbara Gordon and married a half-cast, and this old man who lived entirely with the natives and never associated with his fellow white people was this half-cast's father. Poor Armitage was killed in the war.

Mr Harold Fenton, who also was one of our fellow passengers, now came down from the old Mission house (Kohanga) and welcomed us, and we walked up and were introduced to Mrs Fenton. After a brief rest we all started for Taupari, about 2 miles off - here there is a considerable village; one house apart from the others was a nice-looking well-built wooden cottage with a verandah in front - this is Kukutai's, and to him I was formally introduced. He was dressed in light trousers - a dark waistcoat with a handsome gold chain round his neck - a white cravat and a black frock-coat - he is a slight delicate-looking man and, I was sorry to hear, suffers from asthma. Unfortunately we were late - the natives had had dinner: but Kukutai ordered dinner to be got ready for us - in the mean-while we lounged about and Stewart and I visited the farm, all which more reminded me of a white man's cultivations than a native's, so far advanced is Kukutai beyond the majority of his race. We also visited the Redoubt, in which it was reported in all the papers at the time that Mr and Mrs Maunsell and Kukutai and his people were shut up and besieged by the rebels at one period during the war: but Stewart who was here during through-out that particular time assures me it was not correct - that Mr Maunsell all the time was living in Kukutai's house. So much for newspaper reports, particularly when they are craving for sensational articles. Dinner at last was announced - we had a splendid loin of pork (roast), potatoes, bread and beer - and sat down to it not in my late Maori fashion on the ground to devour one's food with the aid of one's fingers - but like Christians, at a table with knives, forks, spoons and (last though not least) with salt, for I hear it is seldom you can get salt in any of the native Kaiangas.

26. Rode to Town: reacht Home about 11 o'clock long before

[Image of page 78]

I was expected. Heard sad news: the loss of the London - among the passengers were Mr George Urquhart and his wife, she but a Bride, he having gone home to marry her, and his Parents and sister and brothers now daily expecting their arrival in New Zealand. 53 After dinner Blanche and I called on Mrs Selwyn (the Bishop is in Otago) and she thought with me that it would not do now to go to the Karaka on Good Friday to hold service at the Urquharts' as intended but wished me to walk on to Sir William Martin's where Mr Arthur Urquhart and his sister were, they having come to town to welcome their brother and his wife as they were expected to arrive by the very vessel that brought the sad news of their shipwreck. Sir William was glad to see me for he wanted someone to ride over to the old people and break the sad loss to them before the brother and sister returned home: this I offered to do tomorrow. Mr A. Urquhart and his sister are very much cut up: it seems that the lady George Urquhart had married had been Miss Urquhart's "bosom friend" for years, when they were children: and when young women. They are now advancing in years, Miss Urquhart somewhat older - so it had been a long attachment with a melancholy ending.

27. My sisters won't think I am as yet quite worn out or done, when I mention that today I have ridden about 50 miles, and within half an hour of my return Home went to a clerical meeting at Mr Kinder's: and when it broke up at eleven o'clock, I did not feel very fagged - but such is the case. I rode to the Karaka and am thankful I went - for though the Urquharts had heard the sad news a few hours before I got there, I trust I was some help in calming their deep grief - but it was a painful scene and I fear the shock will shorten Mrs Urquhart's days.

31. Left Home about 10 - the wind very high but no rain: got safely to Drury where there was a heavy shower but I was under cover - cooking my dinner. Read in the papers

[Image of page 79]

of a frightful flood which had done considerable damage to Auckland on Good Friday: our house at Parnell is at least a mile from Queen Street, Auckland, where the flood was.

Easter Day. So unlike the Easter Days of former years - the whole night has been stormy - the morning was cold, dark and wet.

4 April. Rode to Maketu. Mr Donaldson I find will leave about the end of this week. I fear his model garden will be quickly destroyed. I had Service at 5: a small congregation but, being Harvest time and everyone more or less busy, I could hardly expect to have many.

5. I have felt unusually tired and homesick today. After dinner started for Paparata but after going some five miles I returned in a "state of mind", by no means amiable with myself, my horse and the weather - and all around me.

6. I determined to leave dull Drury for Waiuku: tried to get some bacon for breakfast but none to be purchased in this thriving village so had tea and dry toast and, wishing myself better luck in my next resting place, set my horse's face westward.

The Karaka was as monotonous or rather more so than usual, but though the weather looked very threatening I got to Major Speedy's without rain: as I drew near I thought there was an unwonted commotion going on, and on stepping on to the verandah the place seemed all topsy turvey; Captain Speedy (the N. Z. giant) had arrived from the Waikato and, it being his sister Charlotte's birthday, he had determined to give a party, and he and his sisters and father were just decorating their large dining-room with leaves of tree-fern - palm and nikau - and with devices in evergreens and flowers. Mrs Speedy was repairing a muslin frock for her youngest child, so I sat down by her side (on the verandah - there was no going inside) and enquired who was coming.

She said all the Mauku and half the Waiuku - so I said: Then I shall assuredly remain to see the fun. After a rest I set too and helped the young people in their preparations and about an hour before the "company" arrived the place was ready and looked very pretty with its floral decorations - half of the verandah had been enclosed with stout tarpauling:

[Image of page 80]

and the windows from this portion of the verandah into the dancing-room were removed, so that the available space for standing and sitting about to watch the dancers had been considerably increased.

By half past seven some 40 of the neighbours had arrived - as I knew them all I was at home from the first and after a bountiful but rather tedious tea-taking the dancing began and (with two breaks during which two very clever charades were performed) was maintained without ceasing till 1 o'clock when tea, coffee and lemonade and cakes were served round. I then sneaked off to my bed-room and, not being able to get a candle, had to grope in the dark till I could find where my bed was and my valise, &c. But at last I laid down but not to sleep - the waltzing, the singing, the music, the laughter when a game was played or a charade acted, kept me wide awake till it was broad day-light, and then as the chief portion of the assembled neighbours began to move off I heard some-one announce it was 1/2 past 6!

About eight I got up, and finding all quiet imagined the rest of the household had laid down to get a few hours' sleep - but to my surprise found them all seated round the breakfast-table, recruiting their exhausted energies by a hearty meal. They had not gone to bed at all - but when the Mauku folk had moved off at 1/2 past 6 the Waiuku portion of the party staid on to return later in the day, and to have breakfast before starting on their long journey.

After Prayers I went out and got my horse and left for the Waiuku. Staid at the Kings' -- after dinner Mr King and I walked into the village to look at a site for a Church. Mr [Edward] Constable promised to try to buy it -- unfortunately it belongs to a Wesleyan. The Miss Kings, Miss Ninnis, Doctor Gray and Mr Mellsopp returned in the evening from the Speedys'. They had had an accident on the way home: and brought back a broken carriage and a damaged horse - however the ladies were not hurt. It seems that after I left, under the pretence of trying some new steps, they recommenced dancing - and danced till 12 o'clock.

8. Rode to Port Waikato by the way of the West coast: the tide was coming in and there being a stiff breeze blowing on-shore the waves came booming in with a magnificent surf:

[Unpaginated illustration]

[Unpaginated illustration]

[Unpaginated illustration]

[Unpaginated illustration]

[Image of page 81]

though not dangerous I was nevertheless thankful when I arrived in safety on the shore opposite the little town of Port Waikato.

10. Mr Stewart and I tried to convert some of the leaves of the common flax into a state fit for sale as flax: we took a large iron pot - filled it with water, in which we mixed a quantity of cow dung, and when the mixture began to boil thrust in the leaves. We then kept the water boiling for two hours and then took out the leaves and plunged them in cold water and rubbed them between our hands as though we were washing them, when all the gum and all the green portion of the leaf came away and left nothing but a bank of long white fibres - flax in short - fit for carding and manufacturing into ropes, &c.

This is a plan the newspapers have been urging the poor starving immigrants to adopt, the merchants in town having promised to give twopence a pound for flax thus prepared for the market. I brought some two or three bundles away with me to show to all the immigrants I might meet on my way to Waiuku: fortunately I met a great many and all who saw it seemed to me inclined to try their hands at it also. Got to King's by tea-time.

11. Rode with Mr King to his new farm: walked over the greater portion and heard all his plans. Then I remounted Zingarie and took quite a new (to me) road to Mauku over what are called the Bald Hills. It is a more interesting road than the one I have hitherto been accustomed to traverse but as I called in at some of the houses and had long koreros with the inmates my progress was so slow that it was near to 5 o'clock before I got to Mauku.

I pulled up at Captain Heron's and asked for a night's lodging, and leaving most of my luggage on their verandah I rode on to Patumahoe to show the immigrants in that Settlement my sample of prepared flax. Many of them were Irish and were once accustomed to prepare flax from hemp in Ireland so they could judge of the specimen I exhibited and they all pronounced it excellent - and many of them promised to fill up their vacant hours - "rainy days and long winter evenings" - as I suggested, in preparing flax. £20 a ton is a strong inducement to men who cannot find

[Image of page 82]

work and the Phormium tenax grows must abundantly at their very doors - cow-dung can be obtained with the mere trouble of collecting - and the water supply is inexhaustible. All they wanted, as they said, were some large iron pots to boil the leaves in.

While we were discussing about it and I was suggesting using their camp-ovens till they could afford to buy a boiler - a Mr Simpson rode up and stated that the Superintendent had sent him round to the various settlements to encourage the immigrants to start in this manufacture of flax, and if they would attempt it the Superintendent would send them some large boilers at the Government expense. This was a most reasonable offer and most thankfully accepted.

1 May. Our "1st of September". Soon after day-light I was awakened by several shots fired close by, and fearing that our garden would be trespassed upon and the hedges damaged I got up and had a full hour's work in the garden before breakfast.

2. Charlie, at last, and after a sad, sad trial to his patience, has had the very great pleasure of working at his new lathe. After the Liverpool appeared in the Harbour it was some two months ere the package containing the Lathe was landed. Then when the package came to our house, I was away on one of my journeys and Mamma decided it was not to be opened till I was present. So for a fortnight poor Charlie saw the case but had to contain his curiousity. Then when I arrived at home Blannie happened to be out on a visit to the Martins at Otara, and I at once settled that this important package must not be touched till her return - so Charlie had to grin and bear it - and I must say he was very quiet and patient about it. And he has been well rewarded for the Lathe is all he could wish and I hope may prove a source of considerable amusement to him. It came quite safely as did everything else contained in the case. The croquet set is the handsomest I have ever seen and we are greatly obliged to James for such a desirable present. I shall as soon as possible have my grass plot levelled.

9. A most lovely day - like a fine English May day - but answering to the 9th November in England.

[Image of page 83]

10. Rode from Drury to Mr Urquhart's at the Karaka ferry. Had I had wings I could have gone in about 4 miles, as it was the journey was 15 miles long - such is the fatigue entailed on the Traveller in a new land for want of a few bridges. Between dinner and tea had evening Service, it being Ascension Day. This, as I have said before, is the most thorough Gentleman's place I have seen outside Auckland.

11. After breakfast left the Urquharts' and rode to Waiuku calling on sundry Settlers in my way: reacht the Kings' by tea time and had the usual kind and hospitable welcome. A new schoolmaster has been appointed to the village school: a member of the Church of England - by name Worthington - this is the first schoolmaster here that has been a Churchman. All the former ones were Presbyterians or Wesleyans.

12. Spent a long day visiting Settlers - walked to a Mill (driven by a Water Wheel) erected near Waiuku for dressing the native flax: the machinery is simple and seems effective. I hope it will answer - Mr Purchas the clergyman at Onehunga is part proprietor.

21. Had my usual three full Services yesterday, with a marriage after a fashion that Alfred would no doubt deem highly irregular: 1st there were no banns - and no licence - then it was celebrated in a small raupo hut - and by me in my riding suit, without cassock and without surplice, and in a great hurry. It was half past 8 when I got home and, thank God, found all well but servantless, Mary Anne having gone home for a holiday.

22. Charlie, Martin and I walked to Auckland: the town looked unusually dull and the streets, in consequence of the rain all Sunday night, were very dirty. Today I have been busy in my garden and have planted 20 young Karaka trees, the handsomest forest tree in my opinion that grows in New Zealand. While at tea we heard the ever welcome booming of the signal gun which announces to the inhabitants of Auckland that the Steamer with the English mail has arrived.

23. Worked all the morning in the garden: labour (10/0 a day for a gardener) is too high for us to have one much or often. Charlie and I called on Sir George Arney: two days

[Image of page 84]

hence he leaves for England. Then we went to a nursery gardener's and bought 3 young oak trees and one horse chestnut tree for which I was charged five shillings. Blanche spent the afternoon at Mrs Selwyn's, working for the Orphans in our new Orphan Asylum - there were some 15 ladies in the party: they are to meet at the "palace" once a week.

24. Queen's Birthday. Martin having a holiday, I took him and Charlie to Onehunga to call upon Mr Purchas, 54 who according to newspaper report had broken his leg by a fall from his horse. We walked there (6 miles) and dined with the Wilds whose two boys, St John and Alexander, accompanied Charles and Martin the rest of our stay in Onehunga. Called on our old friend Mrs Warrington who has just moved into her new house, a comfortable cottage of 6 rooms, very prettily situated on a hill overlooking the Manukau harbour: thence we went to the Purchases' -- I found Mr Purchas with a sprained ankle and a broken big toe, but able to hobble from room to room. After spending at least an hour on the wharf, where the boys had a good game of play, we got into the Omnibus and rode home in time for tea at 6 o'clock.

25. After breakfast went to the Bishop's for Zingarie and started for the Wairoa: called at Bleak House and had dinner with Mr Robert Maclean and Mr Every Maclean, Mrs Maclean being absent at Penrose to see after their Grandchild, Mrs Bailey's baby whom I am to baptize shortly.

26. Rode to the Wairoa and instead of going to my usual resting place at the Thorps', I stopped at the Richardsons': and comfortable quarters I found there.

27. Mr Richardson lent me a horse in order to save poor Zingarie and I rode early to the Thorps' who were somewhat offended at my taking up with new quarters. I made my peace and escorted Miss Thorp to Church, which was more crowded than usual. After Service held a meeting to take measures to secure a Bell: eleven pounds collected on the spot. On passing the Richardsons' exchanged horses after eating a small piece of pheasant. Turanga Creek Church was also

[Image of page 85]

crowded: and then I pushed on to the Trices' where I had my third Service, and then my dinner-tea.

28. Left for Parnell loaded with some trees and two pheasants, a present from Mr George Trice to Blanche. On arriving at home I was sorry to find that Charlie had been very poorly and in a fall had cut open his eyelid.

1 June. Started for Howick: this is to be really and truly my last visit as a Pastor to that Village. It seems that the "authorities' at Howick (meaning thereby the Seddons and Peacockes) have written to the Bishop, refusing the only arrangements he is able at present to make for supplying Howick Church with an occasional Service. They told him they would not have an Itinerating Clergyman: if they could not have a resident one they would not have any. The Bishop has taken them at their word and desired me not to go there again after tomorrow.

3. A good congregation: the dissentients Peacockes and Seddons were however absent.

8. For the last 3 days attended the Synod at 4 o'clock, seldom getting home till 10 or 11, for at the close of the Synod each day the Bishop - princely man that he is - invited all the members of the Synod to spend the rest of the evening at his house where there was each day a sumptuous tea: after tea singing and music in his drawing-room and at 9 o'clock a choral service in the private Chapel. Blannie, at Mrs Selwyn's request, has gone to the house each day at 3 o'clock to help prepare the tea, cut bread and butter -- lay the tables, &c., and she and Miss Ashwell presided at one of the four tables.

9. Got off early for the Mauku. Called in at Penrose and had some luncheon with the Baileys. From Drury to Mauku, 13 miles, it rained heavily and continuously but thanks to the thickness of my great-coat my other clothes were not very wet when I reached Mr Crispe's house.

10. A fine day; dried my Great-coat in the sunshine. A tolerable Congregation. At Drury there were upwards of 50 - a vast improvement this, if it will but last, to the half-dozen

[Image of page 86]

present the first Sunday I officiated. Drank tea with Dr and Mrs Welby - I had had nothing since breakfast at 8, and it was now 6 in the evening. I was therefore not a little taken aback at seeing nothing on the table but a few slices of bread and butter, thin "company" bread and butter. However I said nothing but ate my three slices like mine host and hostess and in due time took my departure for the Wheelers' where I was to sleep, wondering as I went along whether I should have a sound night's rest on an empty stomach. When I got there I found their youngest son - a young man of 25 or so - had unexpectedly arrived from up the country, and Mrs Wheeler told me she was getting some supper for him and begged me to join him. Of course I did: and had a good meal off cold roast turkey! Wasn't I lucky? Visited various members of the Church in Papakura. Rode to Maketu: still of the opinion that this is the prettiest place I have seen. Shall certainly try to build a Church here.

14. Rode to Pukekohe, a long but interesting ride. I started too late from Drury, so was unable to reach the Church, which I am told still retains the marks of the bullets the Maories fired at the Militia who were for several hours besieged within its walls, some two years ago.

15. Started for the Queen's Redoubt. Then proceeded to the settlement about a mile beyond "Williamson's Clearing", called by me "Paparata"; by some the Bombay Settlement. This is the third monthly visit I have paid these poor people, so they begin to know me and I them. They are all in a dejected state: when in England they were told that not only would they have 10 acres of land given to them free, but work found them by the Government for 12 months: they have not yet been here 6 months and at the end of this month the wages and work will cease, and privation and suffering stare them in the face for the Government have overdone it and there are such a large number of - I was going to say Paupers - but of poor working people without a shilling of their own lately brought out - some from England but chiefly from Scotland and Ireland - that there is not work enough in the Colony from private people to employ them, and the province and Government are nearly bankrupt. I left them with a heavy heart for I could not advise them, not knowing what to suggest.

[Image of page 87]

"This Horrid Country"

Got to the Queen's Redoubt about 5. Major Miller gave me a kind welcome.

16. After breakfast Major Miller accompanied me to Tuakau: we rode from the Queen's Redoubt across-country about 12 miles: he then at once returned, leaving me to spend the day visiting a large number of lately arrived immigrants from Ireland, located here. These poor people were worse off than any I have as yet seen. They are not yet on their own land - most of them have not even seen it and the few who have say it is all dense forest: moreover there is no road formed to the block of land which has been allotted to them: altogether they are in a sad plight and seem as a body very down-hearted, for the Government has intimated to them that at the end of this month they will be upon their own resources. I found there were here no less than 32 families belonging to the Church.

I got back to the Redoubt at half past 5 and was not a little astonished to hear that the Governor has issued a Proclamation declaring the war at an end and Peace established. It remains to be seen whether facts will bear out the truth of the statement. The Officers at Mess hoped that now they should escape from what they were pleased to call "this horrid country".

Here I had my dinner then pushed on for Drury - looking more dreary than usual. Went to my Hermitage, fed my horse, arranged my goods and, after a rest of half an hour, rode on to Mauku.

3 July. On going to the Church early was agreeably surprised to find the new bell lying in the porch - it is a large bell. I hope next time I come I shall hear it ring.

4. Left the Wheelers' about 9 and rode to the Wairoa to see how the new house for the Teacher is progressing: this business took me all the day so it was late by the time I got back to Drury.

6. The weather still continuing very stormy, I remained in Drury - visiting some of my neighbours, some of the Presbyterians on whom I had never before called, and all of them, I must say, seemed most heartily glad to see me in their houses. The Runcimans indeed - the chief Presbyterians here - insisted on my staying and having tea with them,

[Image of page 88]

which to confess the truth I was not very loath to do as thereby I escaped a tete-a-tete with myself at the Hermitage.

7. Rode to Tuhimata: found several cases of great distress among the poor immigrants: it is little more than a cheering word or a little advice that I can give them; what they want is work within a walking distance of their homes and that is what so many of them cannot get. Called on a Sir Richard Dean, Bart., known here only as Mr Dean: dined with him and his wife: they are living in a very humble way in a small cottage built on some land of their own, some 40 acres - he tills the farm, she keeps the house. They keep neither woman nor man-servant - the dinner was served up nice and clean, but it was very simple.

8. Arose at 6. Put my rooms in order and saddled my horse and took the keys of my "Hermitage" to Mrs Middlemas, lest the Bishop should be travelling up the country during my absence from Drury. Then started for Pukekohe West, a Settlement I had not visited before; it was a long ride of some 15 miles, first over open undulating country with nothing to look at - the last five miles the country became more wooded and at last ended in a dense forest, through which I had to exercise care in order to guide my horse with safety -- suddenly the forest ended and I entered upon a tolerably level open plain dotted here and there with the immigrants' huts and cottages.

The first I entered belonged to a man named Behesring, who told me he was a Russian and belonged to the "Holy Greek Church". His wife, an Irishwoman, was a Romanist. The next hut was occupied by a Londoner and his wife, from Blackfriars Road -- they told me of a poor woman back in the bush who had a baby a month old and who wanted to see a Clergyman: they offered their son as a guide so we started but had not gone far before the lad's sister came cooeing after us, and told us the woman (a Mrs Davis) had called at her mother's, almost directly after I had left, so I went back and found a very thin and very delicate but interesting looking young woman with a wee little baby in her arms - it seems she and her husband live in the bush some distance from the other immigrants, and one day her husband left her to go to his work, a two days' walk off from their house, and about

[Image of page 89]

2 hours later she was suddenly taken ill and her baby born with no one near to attend to her or to comfort her. And not till 12 hours or more had passed did a soul come to her assistance.

This was a sad case for a young wife with her first child: she begged me to baptize her babe, which I at once did, and then I "churched" the poor fragile mother - and seldom have I seen a woman attend to the Service with more apparent devotion than that woman did, in that small raupo hut, kneeling on the mud floor.

No Clergyman had before visited this settlement and five times had I to go through the Baptismal Service in five different huts, and perhaps I should have found more cases of children unbaptized but the evening began to draw in and I began to feel hungry so I suddenly left - but not quite soon enough for I had some difficulty in wending my way to Mauku, whither I had determined to go and stay the night - however I at last reached Major Speedy's and received my usual hearty welcome - and, what was more to the point, very soon a hot cup of tea and two hot mutton chops, which, as I had had but a slice of bread and butter for my dinner, formed a very agreeable change. Mrs Speedy doctored the forefinger of my right hand which has given me great pain for the last 48 hours. She consoled me by saying that the pain arose from a bad whitlow and that I should certainly lose the first joint!

9. Whether it was Mrs Speedy's poultice or the Major's homeopathic globules, I certainly had less pain and therefore more sleep than I have had for the last two or three nights. Worthington the new School-master called upon me.

16. Rode to the Queen's Redoubt - Miller had left and a new officer was in his place but I received my usual kind welcome and passed a pleasant evening.

17. Passed a miserably cold night. The Officer's man handed me the following letter which I copy verbatim: "Sir, this been the First opportunity of getting my baby Baptized since his birth you will greatly oblige me by performing that most enterasting duty to morrow at the place appointed for Divine Service, the Child is 7 weeks of age his name is to be Earnest

[Image of page 90]

Campbell Denny, its God Fathers are as follows Sergt James Wright (Present) William Henry Grey (Absent) God Mother Anney Wright (Present) I have the honour to remain, Sir, your most humble and obedient Servant, Benjamin Denny, Father of the Baby." So at ten o'clock the "Father of the Baby" made his appearance followed by "Anney" carrying the precious babe - and a horrible crying the little urchin kept up, making the "duty" anything but "most enterasting" to me or to the rest of the congregation. Papa seemed very proud of his baby and very happy. I am anxious to know whether it is his first.

28. Had about an hour's work in the garden before breakfast and so finished planting some early potatoes which had been given to us. Anderson, our next-door neighbour, will form our grass plot into a level croquet ground; this will be no light or inexpensive job: the land falls away so rapidly from the house, it will take him a fortnight if not longer, and his charge is 5/0 a day. So I expect our croquet ground will cost me an outlay of 60 or 70 shilings, but we could never use our set of croquet without this alteration, which also will improve our garden, beside reminding us of the terraces at Ewelm.

After dinner I went to the Bishop's and collected Zingarie and, heavily laden, started with a still heavier heart from home, on my usual monthly tour. The evening turned out wild and wet but fortunately I reached my Hermitage before the rain came down. The greater part of the last two weeks I have spent at Parnell - ten whole days: now I am on a tour which will occupy me for the next three weeks. Three of the ten days I spent with Mr Kempthorn, begging from house to house in Auckland for subscriptions to build St Peter's in the Forest: a new Church Mr K. has taken in hand and which he wishes to see erected on 5 acres he has made over to the Bishop. Adjoining these 5 acres Mr Ashwell has given 10, so if the scheme succeeds and eventually a Parsonage should be built, the clergyman would have a glebe of 15 acres. This site is beautifully situated half-way between Drury and the Queen's Redoubt.

29. After a very stormy night we have had a splendid day. Rode to where St Peter's some day (soon perhaps) will stand and had Service to a few of the settlers. A Miss Martin was present and she asked me to return with her to her father's

[Image of page 91]

and have dinner in the evening. I called in at Sir Frederick Dean's and had tea with him and his Lady.

1 August. Went to the Settlement I hitherto have called Paparata, but I find Paparata is some 12 miles off and that its right native name is "Ramarama" - by the settlers it is called "Williamson's Clearing", a settler of the name of Williamson having long ago felled a small portion of the forest: by the Immigrants it is called the "Bombay Settlement", the ship which brought them hither having rejoiced in the name of Bombay -- I shall do my best to establish the native name Rama-rama and as a beginning I entered that name in the certificates of Baptism.

I spent the whole day among the Immigrants - they seem to take a lively interest in the proposed new Church of "St Peter's in the Forest" which will be within a quarter of a mile from their chief road. The day was beautifully fine, ending with a magnificent sunset, about which time I noticed that the Parrots made more than usual noise and flew about among the tree-tops in a most excited manner. I passed over a hill composed of very singular-looking earth, a dark rich red. A man who was with me said it was to a considerable depth all the same colour. I took some up and it felt soft to the touch and I found greased the paper in which I had wrapped it up. The man further told me it was particularly fertile: certainly his garden - as far as he had gone - could not have looked better.

2. Mauku - a fine morning. The Church Bell rang for the first time: the few whom I heard speak of it expressed themselves very pleased, one saying it reminded him of home. Mrs Jno. Mellsopp (Mr Crispe's daughter) had a baby baptized after the 2nd Lesson.

3. When I reacht Patumahoe commenced visiting the Immigrants from house to house till I got to a Mr Purchase where I asked Mrs Purchase to let me rest and eat the dinner I had brought with me. I had also brought for her 1 lb of sugar and 1 lb of tea, so she readily enough made me a cup of tea and thus I had my meal.

Purchase's daughter, only just sixteen, is to be married next time I come up.

[Image of page 92]

I was 20 minutes late when I reacht Papakura and the evening was coming on so quickly that I had to shorten the Service. Mr [Augustus] Abraham was at Papakura and asked me to go back with him to tea: he is staying at a farm about a mile from the Church. I had had no dinner and was not a little dismayed by seeing nothing but their bread and butter on the table - but after tea I went to the Wheelers' to sleep and, being on intimate terms, I at once asked for supper, stipulating it should be a meat supper, and with a good plateful of cold beef and a tumbler of hot spirits and water I closed the day not by any means unsatisfactorily.

8. Visited most of the Settlers along the Wairoa Road - met the two Miss Thorps, taking a ride with Mr Abraham.

13. Left Drury for Waiuku. I called in at "the Grange" as I passed Mauku and Lena Speedy got me something to eat: ham and bread and water. Roger Hill was staying there: as I left he followed me to make enquiries about a Licence, &c. I told him I was a surrogate and whenever he and Lena had fixed the happy day I would give him the Licence and make them man and wife.

Had today a letter from Blanche: a good account of the children: the Bishop's son John 55 has just arrived from England.

13. Had also a letter from Mr Browne at the Wairoa, asking me to get him a servant so I rode to Ramarama and secured a daughter of a Mrs Sawyer, promising to pilot the young woman to Mrs B. if she would walk to Drury this evening, so as to start with me tomorrow morning, for as Mr Browne lives fully 10 miles from Drury and as Ramarama is at least six I knew she would scarcely be equal to walk 16 miles.

16. After breakfast I rode over to Mrs Warden and told her I would ride slowly towards the Wairoa and Lizzie Sawyer must follow. I had not gone half a mile ere the young woman overtook me and I fastened her "swag" to my saddle and she followed as she could. She was evidently wearied by the time we reached the Thorps' so I dismounted and she got up and rode the rest of the way. Mr and Mrs Browne were surprised and pleased at the promptness with which I had

[Image of page 93]

answered their letter: but I let them know that the pleasure I had in revisiting the Wairoa had a good deal to do with my exertion in securing Sawyer, for without such a job I should have had no excuse to leave my own district to trespass, as it were, into Mr Hall's parish.

18. Left for the Queen's Redoubt: got to the Barracks at 6 and at 7 had dinner.

19. A most awful hard bed last night and I obtained but little sleep: today was cold but bright: good congregations at all the Churches.

With a bright moon to help me on my way I pushed on for home: it seemed unusually long since I was there, now three weeks and two days - at eight I gained the end of my journey and the height of my wishes at the present time: sitting before a good fire with all my family round me.

20. Called on the Bishop: told him that Mr Buckland had offered 37 acres of land at Tuakau as a site for a Church and Parsonage. His Lordship was evidently pleased at the news.

21. Worked in the garden, Edward helping(?) me. After dinner I took Charlie, Anne, Edith and Edward a walk along the railway to watch the navvies at work.

22. Mamma left us immediately after breakfast for St John's College where she is going to pay a visit to the Haultains: it is very seldom she can get away and now would not leave home were I, as usual, away also.

To show the alteration 15 years have made in our roads and conveyances, I would mention that in 1850 when we landed in Auckland and wanted to go to St John's College we had to travel in a dray drawn by 6 bullocks - for the roads were so rude and muddy no slighter vehicle could have survived the tugging and jolting, but today for the small charge of ten shillings Blanche drove to the Haultains' in a barouche and pair, along a well macadamized road the whole distance.

Before dinner I was out with Mr Kempthorne begging for our new Church of St Peter's in the Forest. I took all the children (save Blannie) another walk along another portion

[Image of page 94]

of the railway and we enjoyed ourselves much: Blannie was busy in her district as District Visitor.

23. Took Charlie, Anne and Edward another walk this afternoon. Edith declined to accompany us. I enjoyed it and I think the children did: found out that Edith has a "poetical bias" for having been placed in the porch as a punishment for not minding what her Teacher (Blannie) said, and, coming out from her "lock up" rather colder than she went in, she said to her sister Anne, "If I had done what I was told, I should not be so starved and cold."

28. Worked all the morning in my garden - planting ashleaved Kidneys 56 - in the afteroon took Anne, Edith, Edward and Charlie to Tararua: they remained on the sea shore while I called on Sir William Martin who introduced me to Mr Justice Moore, the gentleman acting for Sir George Arney during his temporary absence in England.

Lady Martin would have the children up from the beach to see them and, hearing that Blannie was going to a dance this evening, she gathered a beautiful bouquet for her to take with her.

29. It was half past one when Blannie came home: the party was given by Colonel and Mrs Pitt: there were upwards of 60 guests. Blannie seems to have enjoyed herself very much. Though so late before I went to bed, for I had to sit up for Blannie, I got up in time to put in a long row of scarlet runners before breakfast.

30. Blannie, after dinner, went to her district: Annette, Edith and Edward took some food to a sick woman living in Hobson's bay, about half a mile off. I gardened and in the afternoon Charlie amused himself with his Lathe; he is making tops for the boys in the Orphan Asylum.

1 September. The first day of the shooting season in England - the last of ours in New Zealand. There being no restriction on Shooting by the Government requiring a licence - no Game laws here - the Pheasants have been so shot down in many districts as to be all but exterminated. A great effort is about

[Image of page 95]

NUMEROUS ROBBERIES

to be made to establish a law to some such effect as this - that no one be allowed to kill game without paying a Licence of 10£ and no one to sell game without paying a Licence of 15£ - if our Provincial Council can manage to pass some such law the birds will have a chance.

2. In walking from Papakura Church to the Wheelers', Mr Ed. Wheeler took me into the bush at the back of their house to see a hut formed of Nikau leaves which two men had formed and where they had been living some weeks past unknown to any-one in the neighbourhood: they were two thieves and had been committing numerous robberies far and near but were captured a few days ago, and when taken one of them offered to conduct the police officer to their hut in the forest. Otherwise I suppose their hut would not have been discovered, so ingeniously was it hidden among the low underwood. In the hut the police captured a large quantity of stolen goods and a formidable "life preserver" (?) with which the policeman asked the man whether he intended to kill any one. "No," said the man: "There are two things I will try never to do - the one is to work - the other is to take a fellow creature's life."

4. Just as I was leaving the "Hermitage" Mr Ashwell called on his way home from the Waikato: he staid about an hour and partook of my simple dinner and then smoked a pipe which he said did him more good than any food. When he had left I rode to Maketu and visited a few of the people.

6. Up early: at breakast finished the tongue Blannie had had boiled for me when I left home last Friday - just a week ago - and finished the loaf of bread I bought when I reacht Drury on Friday: and of the cake dear Blannie made I have just sufficient left for my dinner to-day, supposing I fail in getting dinner at any of the houses at the Mauku, wither I am now just going to start.

7. Slept last night at Major Speedy's - dined yesterday at the McElwains' and so was able to divide my cake between little Rose Speedy and the Monkey - I think the latter begins to recognise me as I generally give it something nice whenever I go to the Grange. Rode over to Patumahoe and married

[Image of page 96]

Miss Margarita Florentina Purchase, a damsel of 16 years, to Francis James Anthony. I took up my quarters at the Kings': gave little Annie "Clarissa", one of Edith's 12 dolls: Mr King a copy of the last Melanesian Report and Mrs King a Prayer Book with our hymnal at the back instead of Brady & Tates version of the Psalms.

8. Spent all the morning visiting: the Government have sent a reply to a petition forwarded some little time ago, begging to have 10 acres given or sold to us, out of a certain land reserve close to Waiuku: the answer just received is that they will sell us 10 acres. I prefer buying Church property from the Government rather than receiving sites as gifts: or maybe, by and by, when the sites become valuable, the same power that gave may see fit to take back as the Colonial Government did in Canada with the Clergy reserves. If we buy and have Crown grant it takes away all chance of anything like a future spoliation.

9. Afternoon Service at Port Waikato: the Church quite full. Among the number Mr and Mrs Hoapili 57 who accompanied Queen Emma to England and are here on their way back to their own country: Mr Stewart introduced me to them. Mr Hoapili speaks fluently quite remarkably good English and is quite a polished Gentleman: she is not quite so much of a lady as he is a gentleman, and does not speak English quite so fluently. She has picked up Maori much quicker than her husband and although they have not been more than 3 weeks in the island she can already converse with the Maories, their own language and the New Zealand tongue being not very dissimilar -- indeed the New Zealand tradition is that their ancestors came from the Sandwich Islands and hence they view Mr and Mrs Hoapili as "illustrious" countrymen and feast them whenever they visit their Kaiangas. Hoapini at Waiuku and Kukutai at Port Waikato have received them as their guests with as much distinction as they could make.

10. Slept last night at Captain Breton's: went to breakfast this morning with Mr Stewart where I met Mr and Mrs Hoapili: a native Chief from Kohanga joined us. Mr Stewart

[Image of page 97]

and Hoapili were going to Raglan, Hoapili having a wish, if possible, to be introduced to the Maori King, to give him some good advice!

15 October. After breakfast walked with Mr Stewart to the Court House - an Inquest was held upon the body of the Italian found upon the opposite shore last evening. As it had been three weeks in the water it was in a distressing state. I have never been present at an inquest before: Verdict, found drowned. Dined with Captain and Mrs Breton who afterwards walked with me to the Spargos'. Port Waikato is very dull now that the Military have vacated the Post.

While I was having tea with the Stewarts, Alphonso (something), the Ferryman, called and enquired indirectly whether the remains of his poor countryman could have a "Service" read over them. I agreed to do so tomorrow immediately after breakfast.

16. Mr Stewart took me to the site of the new cemetery - a long distance from the town, towards the extreme point of the Southern Headland of the entrance of the river: a wild, cold-looking desolate spot bounded on one side by a swamp and on the other dreary sand-hills - this was the first burial at this spot - hitherto the dead had been buried in a small paddock not far from Spargo's house, where Dr Maunsell interred his first wife, some children, and where some officers, &c., have been buried. But the Church Missionary Society, through their agent Mr Burrows (one of the Missionaries out here), having leased the whole estate to Mr Spargo and not having reserved any right over this small paddock - Spargo has forbidden any further burials on his land so we were driven some two miles further on to a spot outside his boundary - and, as I said, a most wild dreary-looking spot it is.

Alphonso and his mate, a European named "England", had a great difficulty in getting the dray, in which they conveyed the coffin, to the grave. They tried one side of the swamp and after being three times nearly capsized, horse, cart and coffin, into the water, they returned, headed the swamp and came down the other side where the bottom was firmer. It had a curious effect to watch the horse and cart and the two men, trudging along up to their knees in water for upwards of a mile: they must have been right glad when they got on

[Image of page 98]

to the dry sand-hills and so round to where I and Stewart and the grave digger were awaiting them. I had my surplice in my valise so the Service was performed decently and in order and poor Alphonso, whatever he thought of Spargo thrusting his friend and countryman so far into the wilderness, had the consolation of finding that after all his friend was not buried "like a dog": for, I was shocked to hear, some low fellows about the Port were twitting the Italian upon being a Papist and that Mr Lush would not notice him, and that his friend must be put into the ground "like a dead dog".

18. Rode to Maketu. The day was fine and the pretty settlement looked most charming: some of the poor Immigrants however were very despairing - no work to be had in their neighbourhood and the work obtained from the Government restricted to 12 days a month or 12/0 a week. Mrs Donaldson took me to the top of the "Maketu" (a very steep and high hill, 58 whence the valley takes its name). The view from the top was magnificent. There were several [kumara] pits where grow peach trees and vines and the Cape Gooseberry - why called "Cape" I know not as it is indigenous to this country. 59 On going into the village shop on my return for some milk, which Mrs Middlemass supplies me gratuitously, I saw some fresh beef and bought a pound, half of which I cooked - and cooked nicely - for my tea: the first piece of meat, beside bacon, I have ever cooked, to the best of my knowledge.

There is a report that Gold has been found in the Thames District - if it should turn out true I fear there will be but women and children left about here (Drury) for we are but three days' walk from the Thames.

19. Up at 5 o'clock, for today I start on my "homeward" bound journey: before I got to Papakura it began to rain: I visited a sick child and a few others living in Papakura and rode on to the Wairoa, reaching Dr Hale's in time for tea: the Doctor however was away from home, the carpenters were busy altering the premises and the utmost confusion prevailed - for there is no servant and there are eight young

[Image of page 99]

children - a painful evident of the extraordinary effect which a residence in the bush - far removed from neighbours - can produce upon a Gentleman's family when living without a servant - without a governess - and making every thing give way to the one object of their present existence, viz. "making the farm pay". The Doctor and his wife moved in the best Society in England: he was the family doctor to the Earl of Ripon and came out with a considerable sum of money, all invested in their Wairoa property. He is a man of high attainments and possesses the best library I have seen in the bush - or anywhere beyond the Cathedral Library.

20. Staid dinner at "Nocton" (the Dr's farm) in the hope of meeting with the Doctor - in which hope I was not disappointed as he arrived about 1 o'clock. He said the last news in town was that the reported new Goldfields were between the Wairoa and the Thames: what a difference there may be if such should prove true - a few months hence in this hitherto quiet and thinly peopled district. Reacht the Thorps' in time for tea - in this house I feel from long use more "at home" than in any of the very many houses in which I take up my temporary sojourn.

21. A beautiful morning: gathered 8 or 9 lemons from one of the Thorps' magnificent lemon trees. The tree looked most beautiful: it was in blossom and there were lemons, small and larger, but still green - and also there were innumerable (so to speak) lemons, fully ripe, their rich yellow colour contrasting in this pleasing manner with the bright green of the foliage. One must be careful in gathering the fruit, it is guarded and protected by such formidable thorns.

8 November. A long gap since I made my last entry. I have since the 21st ult. spent nine days at home. We have, several of us, had colds. I have had one and can't throw it off - and fear I shan't till the cold winds, we have all been so long shivering from, have left us. Today I had my first service at Maketu in a raupo shed: though a week-day, and in the afternoon, I had about 30 people, amongst the number the Black woman from Africa: Mrs Harris - she acted as good as a Clerk, making all the responses and reading the alternate

[Image of page 100]

NOVEMBER 1866

verses in the psalms in a nice clear voice. I wish the white women had done the same.

21. I have allowed another gap to take place in my journal. In the evening Captain Speedy came from Mauku: he had promised to give a lecture on Abyssinia for the benefit of the Wairoa School. The lecture was held in the Assembly Room of the [Papakura] Hotel and was well attended.

22. Captain Speedy having promised to repeat his lecture at the Wairoa, Mr Goulding left home after breakfast to prepare Mr Munro's 60 large barn for the lecture this evening.

23. The lecture last night was in all respects most successful. The barn was tastefully decorated and full to over-flowing. The Glee Singers gave us three glees: and one gentleman a comic song, and the Captain came out strong in adventures and songs. The entertainment began at 8 and was not concluded till 11. Then a great portion of the people bent their steps homewards, but a considerable number remained and, having cleared the Barn of benches and having secured the services of a fiddler, got up an impromptu ball and were, I hear, dancing at day-light this morning.

24. Rode to Drury and Papakura to collect the unsold tickets from Middlemas, Willis and Fallwell. The Papakura lecture brought in £5. 6. 0 and the Wairoa lecture £14. 18. 0. Held a Committee meeting in the afternoon and paid the Builder the remainder of his bill; viz. £11. 17. 6. Thus the Teacher's house is paid for and that which I was told I could not do eighteen months ago, is done.

25. A very full Church: the Service had to be stopped twice through the row caused by dogs fighting in the Church. I at once proceeded homeward and reacht Parnell at 3 o'clock.

28. Took Charlie to St George's Bay to see one of the largest assemblages of Maories I have ever witnessed: there were nine large war canoes and nine large whale-boats drawn up on the beach, and their tents and temporary whares made the adjoining fields look like a huge camp. These natives have come on some

[Image of page 101]

land dispute - not a dispute between us and them but between themselves, and instead of settling the quarrel in the Old-New-Zealand style by trying who is the strongest party in a fight, they have come to Auckland to plead their case before the Judge of the Native Court.

30. Being St Andrew's Day I attended the Bishop's private Chapel; immediately after took leave of the Bishop and left home for my usual tour. Blanche was up when I bade them all farewells - I wore today a coat which Blanche had made yesterday, in one day! by the help of the Sewing Machine. Reacht Drury - Oh Dreary Drury - at 6 o'clock.

1 December. Left Drury at 9 for Mauku: the sun was frightfully hot, but I had over my black coat a thin white holland over-coat which I think saved me a little from the scorching rays of the sun - certainly must have saved my coat - the sun so quickly turns the black into a rusty brown.

15. Mr Mellsop rode with me to the Wairoa School: enquired of Miss Haselden whether Mrs Lush, myself, Charles and Martin, could occupy her house for a week or so while she would be absent spending her Xmas holidays at her parents: she willingly agreed to the proposition. After dinner at Mr Mellsop's I left Papakura for Otara, intending to spend the evening with Mr Albin Martin. I rode along the Great South Road homewards eight miles till I came to the cross-roads which would lead me to Otara: then I pulled up and thought - shall I go on to Otara which is 6 miles hence or Home which is 12 miles - in either case I shall have about the same distance to travel tomorrow to get to Mr Gould's, with whom I am to exchange Services. Away I came along the Great South Road as fast as poor tired Zingarie would carry me. I got to "Ewelme Cottage" (as I sometimes in fun call my house) just as Blanche had poured out the first cup of tea, so I arrived at the nick of time to their great astonishment but - I need not say - great delight.

17 January 1867. The last few days have been most frightfully hot and the musquitoes more than usually spiteful: however this plague of flies fortunately lasts but a short time and is

[Image of page 102]

not universal, certain spots being, like the land of Goshen of old, free from them.

Last Monday the 14th I rode from Port Waikato to Kohanga along a succession of swamps by the side of the Waikato and whenever I got into a hollow out of the influence of the river breeze, my face, hands, clothes, - and even my poor horse - were instantly covered with a multitude of eager buzzing gnats all mad to get one good suck at your blood, imagining I suppose that it may be the only chance they shall have in their brief life to feast on a tender skinned Pakeha. One must pass through some such nights as I had lately, worried by the constant attacks of the nasty little wretches, to appreciate fully that appellation of the Devil - "Beelsebub" the Lord of the Flies; for if his attacks are harassing to the soul the attacks of Musquitoes are terrifying to the body.

A great change has occurred at Kohanga since I was last here. Walter Kukutai, the Chief, has died: and Revell, who was my school-master at Turanga Creek, has been sent to Kohanga to conduct a Maori school - he seemed disheartened, so I was glad I went to give him a few words of encouragement. On my way from Port Waikato on Tuesday I called upon a Settler of the name of Bregman, whose second son I then and there married to a young girl named Agnes Hamilton. Edward, the Bridegroom, was 19, Agnes, the Bride, was 15. The house was full of company, all relatives; the Service I performed was "decently and in order" - considering the small room and the crowded state thereof. I staid and had dinner with them and then jogged on to Mr King's at Waiuku. On my way thither met Major Speedy and Mr Rawlinson, the latter a secretary in the Native department: asked him to secure £50 a year to Revell from the Government, which he thought he would be able to manage. Reacht King's about 4 o'clock my face and my lips so burnt by the sun that I was in considerable pain. Wrote to Revell to tell him of the probable increase in his salary.

Martin still at Colonel Haultain's 61 at St John's College. He, Charlie, Mamma and I went to the Wairoa road school where we remained for a week, living in the new house just finished for the School Mistress, Miss Haselden. We enjoyed the week very much for Mr Golding lent us his dray and horse and

[Image of page 103]

I went round the neighbourhood introducing my wife and sons to all my old parishioners. One day we managed to get as far as Mr Browne's on the river - and another day to Otara and another to Papakura - so that when Mamma got back to Parnell she was quite knocked up with her unwonted travels.

22. Rode over to Papakura before breakfast: went to Mr Mellsop's, it being 8 o'clock. No one stirring, I went to his bedroom window to enquire whether he was getting up, but he called out that he was not awake yet! It was past 9 before we sat down to breakfast. Roger Hill joined us - he was passing by and seeing me sitting on the Verandah he pulled up - he had left Auckland at 5 o'clock and like me he was hungry. He wanted me to give him a Marriage Licence so the long talked of affair between him and Eleanor [Helena] Speedy is likely to be settled at last.

After breakfast Mr Mellsop and I rode to the Wairoa: we called in on Miss Haselden and his sister: the school has commenced more flourishing in point of numbers than last half, and she has 3 boarders.

The heat was something terrific: in today's paper the unusual heat is noticed: it says: "the black bulb thermometer, which may be supposed to represent the heat felt by a person dressed in ordinary clothing, marked on Saturday 114 degrees, on Sunday 112 degrees and yesterday 118 degrees. The Thermometer in the shade showed 87 degrees on Saturday, on Sunday 90 degrees and on Monday 92 degrees," and this morning, Tuesday, I fully expected as much heat again but about 12 o'clock a deluge of rain descended and already there is a perceptable difference in the temperature.

23. Rain, rain all night and up to 8 o'clock so I saddled Zingarie and delivering up the keys of my Hermitage to Mrs Middlemas turned my back upon Drury and rode off to the Wairoa road, put up at the Traveller's Rest and ordered breakfast for which I paid 1/6 and I suppose Alfred could not have got a better one for the same amount in Dorsetshire - a cold leg of mutton, three boiled eggs, bread - butter - coffee and cream: after enjoying these good things I went up to the School and found Miss Haselden busy with her pupils.

[Image of page 104]

I called on Mr Mellsop and the Wheelers on my way through Papakura and then pushed homewards - which I reached about 5 o'clock with scarcely a dry stitch upon me, another storm having overtaken me between Otahuhu and Newmarket.

29. The Annual Regatta in the Harbour to commemorate the founding of the Colony. Except a stroll in the Domain with Charlie, Martin and Edward we remained quietly at home, I working in the garden. The Domain is a beautiful place, well wooded with many shady walks and many extensive and beautiful views; fortunately for us it is within five minutes' walk of our house. The day was the finest we have had for a long time, as bright as could be, with a pleasant cool breeze from the South. In the afternoon, Hauraki Bay, with Rangitoto the high volcanic hill for a background, looked quite lovely. The water was dotted with cutters and yachts - we counted no less than thirty visible at one time.

1 February. Had an early breakfast: left home for a fortnight's tour. Riding through Papakura I met Mr Mellsop who pressed me to stay and dine with him, and some friends who were spending the day with him, viz Captain and Mrs Richardson and Mr Featherstone: the thermometer today 120 degrees.

5. Another sultry day. Fortunately I had brought the pocket pistol 62 Eliza sent me to Drury, with some brandy in it, and I found a half tumbler of cold water with a dash of spirits in it most reviving after my exhausting ride from Mauku: I have made good use of the present ever since it came to hand. Went as usual to Mr Mellsop to tea; met Captain Hamilton who was so kind to me when I went to Raglan, so I was glad to renew the acquaintance.

4. Captain Hamilton who had slept at the Hotel came up to Breakfast at Mr Mellsop's. After breakfast I rode with him to Papakura Valley to look at a farm he thought of buying. We passed through an encampment of Kauri gum diggers: the Kauri gum fetches from £25 to £30 a ton in Auckland, and a man can make /5s. a day easily by digging

[Image of page 105]

for the gum throughout the whole of the valley, which ages ago must have been a Kauri forest, though now there is not a tree standing. There are, however, plenty of immense trunks lying all about, more or less buried in the soft swampy ground, and near to these trunks especially the diggers found the gum, sometimes in very large lumps, a foot or 18 inches beneath the surface. So digging for gum has all the excitement of an uncertainty about it - as digging for gold has - one day a man makes a lucky hit and bags 50, 70 or 100 lbs of gum!: the next perhaps not 5 lbs, but one day with another they can secure sufficient to bring them in about 5/0 a day.

7. Remained in-doors all day till after tea: then rode to Tuhimata where I baptized a baby: one of the hottest days this extra hot season, so I was thankful I could manage to remain quiet in-doors. Not having had a dinner since last Saturday I went to Castledine's Inn 63 at one o'clock and asked for a plate of soup. Mrs Castledine soon after said: "Will you walk this way, Sir. Your dinner is ready." It was quite a spread for a solitary bachelor such as I am - a shoulder of mutton, mashed potatoes, whole potatoes, cabbage - bread - beer - a peach tart and cheese - and this was "a plate of soup". However, nothing loath, I set to and made a good dinner, for which I was charged 2/9d. Then I went home and - attempting to read the Guardian - fell fast asleep. The ride back from Tuhimata by moonlight was very pleasant.

8. As this was the day I had set upon to leave "most dreary Drury", I got up with alacrity at 1/2 past 4, and after a delicious bathe [sic] and a hearty breakfast started for Mauku, utterly careless of my clerical cut, so that I might travel coolly. I had a white holland coat on, a light white felt helmet on my head and carried an umbrella but still found the sun most Scorching and oppressive.

I walked along very slowly but nevertheless was bathed in perspiration when I reached the Grange at 12 o'clock. Major Speedy urged me to stay till after tea, so that I might finish my journey in the cool of the evening. As one of the Bishop's surrogates I issued a License to Roger Hill, to be married to Helena Agincourt Speedy next Tuesday the 12th: this is, I

[Image of page 106]

think, the first time I have administered an oath to anyone. After dinner I made myself useful in putting in two panes of glass: then inspected a halo round the moon, a certain sign of coming rain.

11. Called at Ralph Pennell's (his father was one of my old Parishioners at Howick) and baptized his baby - a year ago I married him. I got to Waiuku at 12 o'clock. Staid dinner: before I left Roger Hill had called in a light cart for the two Miss Kings so that they might be at his wedding tomorrow. I followed to Mauku but by a different road, for I wished to call upon Mrs John Wheeler: after leaving the house I rode on till I came to the Mauku stream, which had risen so high through the quantity of rain which had fallen in the last 48 hours that I could not see the top of the bridge: so I retraced my steps and asked Allen Wheeler who was ploughing to come down and see whether he could help me across - most good-naturedly he unharnessed his team and walked back with me, and, tucking up his trousers, he walked across the Wooden bridge and decided that it was too dangerous for the horse to venture as some of the planks were washed away, so after a short consultation I took off my luggage, which he took across, and then I mounted on his shoulders and he carried me across. I went my way to Mr Crisp's: Allen rode my horse back to his farm, promising to send it over to the Crisps' the next day, if possible.

It was dark when I reached "Stanlake" and they were at tea: Mr and Mrs Crisp, their daughter Mrs Robinson, their son Heywood, the Bride-elect - her two sisters, and Miss Betsy Mellsop -- a merry party -- an intense flirtation going on between Heywood and Betsy Mellsop on his right hand, and Charlotte Speedy on his left. The young people adjourned to the Verandah where they sang - joined shortly by Miss Glasson, Mrs Heron and a Miss Williamson. Mrs Robinson and I went over to the Church to practise the 123 Hymn and the chanting the Psalms in the Marriage Service and to arrange the decorations. I promised to meet her in the Church about 6 tomorrow morning to finish the festoons and bouquets, &c. When we returned to Mr Crisp's the riotous party on the Verandah was called in to Prayers and then the house became quiet.

[Image of page 107]

12. Slept so soundly that breakfast was ready ere I had left my room. Mrs Robinson quizzed me a little about the help I had been to her at 6 o'clock this morning. However she had done, and done well, without me for the Church looked remarkably well.

The Bride and Miss Glasson had slept at Mrs Heron's - Roger Hill was at the Speedys' - so the Company came dropping in at various intervals from different directions, but by 11 o'clock (the wedding had been fixed for nine) all had assembled - a goodly company, with lookers-on, mustering upwards of 50 people. I read, of course, the whole of the Service excepting the Psalms which were nicely and heartily chaunted, the Harmonium being played by Mrs Crawford, and just before the exhortation we had the 123 Hymn. The bridesmaids were Miss Glasson, Charlotte and Harriet Speedy and Miss Mellsop. This was the first time Miss Glasson had heard a Church Marriage Service though it is the fifth time she has acted as Bridesmaid - her family are Wesleyans.

After Church came a general move to the Grange where the breakfast was to be - the Bride and Bridegroom and two of the Bridesmaids went off in a light cart - followed by three other carts, two light ones and one a heavy dray, and the rest of the company on horseback. So we should have made a respectable cavalcade had we kept together, but some got to the Grange an hour before others and we kept dropping in at the Major's, just as they did in the morning at the Church. There was a capital breakfast ready for us and after the young men had with their rifles fired a salute, we sat down, about 30 guests. There were the usual toasts and speechifying and then a long saunter about the garden till Mr and Mrs Roger Hill prepared to take their departure in the light cart they had driven from the Church: their destination was Campbell Hotel, Waiuku.

Again the happy Pair had three cheers and three cheers, and no end of rifles fired, for having no peal of bells what were we to do to make a noise withal but to appeal to the musket and the rifle? I then left and got to my poor hermitage about 8 o'clock: it would have been dull had I not found in the Post for me, two letters from Blanche, giving upon the whole, a fair account of them all at home.

[Image of page 108]

13. Another thorough wet day: how glad all the Speedys must be that the wedding was yesterday instead of today. And I am thankful I resisted the pressing invitation I had to wait with them all till today: had I done so what a frightful journey I should have had.

12 March. Over the Bald Hills to Mauku and thence to the Karaka to Quhaut House, as I think the Urquharts call their place: here I spent the evening: no house so strongly reminds me of the comfort of Lady Taunton's house at Ewelme as this does - so thoroughly English in all aspects.

14. Packed up my things for my face is set "homewards". Thinking the Bishop may be going soon to the Waikato, left everything in apple-pie order, and resigning the keys to the village shop-keeper rode to Papakura.

13. Left after breakfast for John Hill's place, 8 miles from Papakura in the Hunua forest: the road, though very rough and [over a] succession of steep hills and deep gullies and through a dense forest, was plain enough, the trees having been cleared to a width sufficient for a bullock dray. I got to the Hills' about eleven: had dinner and baptized a baby. These people I have known almost from the first year I arrived in the Colony, and Jessie, a girl of fifteen, I baptized when they were living near Howick.

Wishing to reach the Wairoa Road, Mr Hill assured me there was a bush track which would take me there in 6 miles instead of having to retrace my steps to Papakura - so as Jessie volunteered to go a short way with me to see me safely started in the track, and as they assured me there was just one path and once in the track I could not fail of reaching the other side (the Wairoa side) of the forest, I started with Jessie as my guide.

She told me that her brother had been working in the bush a few days ago and placed his dinner in a hollow tree, and that when he went for his parcel he put his arm into the hollow and pulled out - not his dinner - but three skulls, a woman's and two little children's. I said in a joking way, "Well, Jessie, if I am lost now in the forest, and there perish, some few years hence you or your brother may pick up my bones!" -- "No fear" she said, "you will get safe through,"

[Image of page 109]

and so we chatted till she showed me the path, and then we parted.

It is a very long time since I had such a thorough bush path to traverse, and as it was not much after 2 I felt I had plenty of light to spare - I calculated I should be having tea at Goulding's about 5 o'clock. The forest was very beautiful and as I rode slowly along, pushing my way through the undergrowth, I weaved a little tale about the poor Maori woman and her two little babies (a Twin as I imagined) and how they had died and she had pined to death, and her husband had in his grief carefully deposited the heads of his loved ones in a place of sepulture - the hollow tree: and so I came to an ugly-looking stream with steep sides.

"O bother," I said, "Zingarie will never cross that"; and so it proved -- nothing would induce her to try: and I thought that if I forced her in and she stuck I should be in a truly bad plight, so I looked at my watch and found it 4 o'clock. I at once determined to return to the road leading to Papakura and, as it was moonlight, go round to Golding's by the Road. But alas - instead of getting out of the forest where I had entered it I found I must have, in some inexplicable manner, lost the route and had become entangled in the bush. As the sun went down the gloom deepened, and soon I could see no path, no track, and began to be seriously afraid that I was "in" for a night sojourn in the forest: and I thought of my idle remark to Jessie Hill about her brother's coming along some day and finding my bones.

I was tired and very thirsty but struggled on: not however having the light, I could not see where to stop and received some heavy falls and grazed my shin severely and wrenched my back, and at last felt so wearied and sore that in despair I got on Zingarie's back and running all risk of getting some ugly knocks on my head from overhanging boughs I laid down as close to her back as possible and gave up the reins to let her carry me wither she chose. The Bishop has often told me she is a first-rate bush horse and so she proved herself to be - she went on and on - in and out - struggling through this and plunging through that and at last, to my infinite joy, emerged on the road and near the spot where Jessie had parted from me. I looked at my watch -- it was near 8 o'clock, so I had been 5 hours in the forest. It was

[Image of page 110]

out of the question to attempt to go to Papakura, so I returned to the Hills' who were very glad to welcome me back - feeling with me I had escaped a most miserable night's sojourn amidst the gloom and damp of the forest. Enjoyed my tea and had a short Evening Service - and then with a thankful heart went to bed - I suppose Mr and Mrs Hill's - who, I feared, slept on the floor in the kitchen.

31. The Troops having abandoned the Queen's Redoubt, I had Service in one of the rooms in a small house belonging to the Bishop: a house he put up for his own use during the war, similar to the one he built at Drury and which I now use. This house at Pokeno is about a mile nearer Drury than the Redoubt and whenever the Bishop travels this way he rests here, as he does at his house at Drury - they form in short two clerical caravansaries. I have never used this house at Pokeno, greatly preferring the kind hospitality of the Officers at the Redoubt to lodging in an empty shell of a building all alone -- save rats and fleas - and now that the Officers are no more I vastly prefer the Weekeses' welcome to the "bare" accommodation of the Bishop's empty cottage.

However today I took possession of it for the first time, for the purpose of turning one of the rooms into a Church - Mr Fry, who has charge of the place, and lives close by, supplied me with a small table and chairs and a bench - there were in the room two cases - 13 assembled for the Service: I must ask the Bishop to let me throw down one partition and then I can get a room 24 x 12, which will form a Church quite large enough for a year or two.

3 April. Rode to Howick: called on Colonel De Quincey 64 and got a Quarter's rent, just due. Then called on Mr Hall and the Macleans, with whom I dined. After dinner rode to Otara to Mr Styak's 65 where I was to sleep. Left my horse in one of his paddocks and walked over to the Martins' where the two Miss Styaks were busy helping for the wedding party tomorrow. In the course of the evening Martin's cart arrived from Auckland with "heaps" of things for tomorrow and with Miss Outhwaite and Blannie.

[Image of page 111]

4. A fine bright day. I met at Mrs Styak's breakfast table Mr [Edward] Amphlett, the "happy man": he arrived here late last night, also a Mr [R.] Eaton who is engaged to one of the Miss Styaks. Shortly after breakfast I walked to the little stone building called St John's Chapel and about half past eleven the carriages arrived bringing Mary Mergellina Martin (the Bride), Mr and Mrs Martin, and a train of children - Miss Outhwaite, 66 Blannie, Miss Styak and three Miss Martins (the six bridesmaids), Mr Amphlett (the Bridegroom) and Mr W. Styak (his best man), Mr and Mrs Styak and children, Mr E. Maclean and Mrs Maclean, and Mr Eaton - beside these there was a good many "lookers on" so that the little building looked well filled: it had been prettily decorated with flowers and evergreens last evening.

I read, of course, the whole of the Marriage Service so it was past 12 before it was over. I got a lift back to the Martins' in one of the Carriages and then came the breakfast (dinner in fact), then the speechifying (whereof the less said the better), then the departure of the happy pair amidst a shower of old slippers - then croquet - then tea - then charades and songs, in which Blannie acquitted herself far better in the latter than the former: her singing being excellent - her acting not so. Miss Styak and I rode back to her father's, Mr Eaton most willingly lending me his horse when he found the other Miss Styak had to walk. I was in bed and asleep before he and his affianced reacht home.

6. Rested a couple of hours at Drury then pushed on to Mauku: the long journey did my poor leg no good - the old wound broke out again and the Herons at whose house I stayed for the night thought it frightfully inflamed.

8. Received a letter from the Bishop in which he sanctions the alteration in the house at Pokeno, but intimates the congregation must pay the expence for he cannot. Ought to have spent the day visiting but thought it prudent to return to Drury to rest and nurse my leg.

ii. Returned to the Great South Road and finished visiting the inhabitants thereof, and then rode to Tuakau and so through

[Image of page 112]

the forest to Pokekoe and to Mr Harris's farm where I halted for the night: I have spent 8 hours today in visiting.

12. Unfortunately the rain recommenced and continued with more or less violence all the way to Mauku. I found my umbrella of good service and though I am often laughed at for holding one upon horseback I shall persevere, for it certainly saved me from getting wet through today. My leg better, but still very painful: it was an unlucky tumble of mine, that in the Hunua forest.

21. Easter Day. Reached home about half past nine, very tired, after an absence of three weeks.

24. Blannie, invited to spend the evening at a Mrs Mackey's, went about 7 and said she hoped to be back by 10. When 10 came Blanche went to bed and I sat up - but hour after hour passed and no Blannie came home - when at last 2 o'clock struck I got alarmed and, though I knew not where the Mackeys lived, determined to go in quest of the lost damsel. Blanche directed me as well as she could and I started: I got at last into the right neighbourhood and was just wondering how, in the dark, I should make out the right house when the strains of music - polkas - attracted my attention, and turning a comer I came to a house brilliantly lighted up and through the uncurtained window saw several "red coats" whirling young ladies round and round and among the number my very sober-sided daughter! She came directly, glad to get away, for it seems she had been quite mistaken as to the nature of the invitation, expecting to spend as she had done before, a quiet sociable evening with Mrs Mackey, and when she got there she found herself in for a grand dance: however she had enjoyed herself - which is more than I had done - though she was hardly dressed for a formal party.

28. My little [Pokeno] church of two rooms - 24ft by 12 - was tolerably well filled - there were 26 present.

29. Martin resumed his schooling: advanced in Latin by being put into Caesar and Henry's 2nd Book. Blanche had a party in the evening - the chief amusement was acting charades.

[Unpaginated illustration]

[Unpaginated illustration]

[Unpaginated illustration]

[Unpaginated illustration]

[Image of page 113]

2 May. The great event of today was Martin shooting himself: he was just preparing for school and putting up his pistol, a small one he had made himself out of a brass cannon, when it accidentally went off and the shots penetrated just above his wrist and ploughed up his arm, resting at last a little below the elbow: for a moment he did not know he was hurt, but his sister Blannie perceived his sleeve on fire and I seized hold of his arm to extinguish the flame when she called out and I thought he was going to faint.

Fortunately Blanche and I were ready to go out so we at once walked off with him to Dr Goldsborough in Parnell and, more fortunately still, the Doctor was at home, so within half an hour of the accident the shots had been extracted and his arm bandaged up. The poor boy behaved very very well when Dr G. cut into the arm to get at the shot, not making nearly so much noise as I expected; what a mercy his face was not injured - I had given him a little powder - the shot it seems he had got from some of his school-fellows.

5. The anniversary of my wedding day - the 25th, which Nancy tells me is therefore called the Silver wedding day: if I live to see my Golden wedding day I hope it may not be spent so laboriously as this has been.

10. Mr King's, Waiuku: written half an hour after my arrival. Started many pheasants on my way - at one point no less than eight full-grown birds started up close to my horse - one of them so close that had I been quick enough I might have knocked it down with my umbrella. At the entrance to Mr King's land Mr K. met me, gun in hand: he had just killed two birds.

11. After a very stormy night we had a bright, fine but cold day. Left after breakfast and visited all day until 5 o'clock in the evening when I returned to the Kings' and at six sat down to a bountiful tea: four Pheasants being in one dish - and some fine kumaras in another.

12. A fine day: congregations at Waiuku and Port Waikato very good: spent the evening with Captain Breton. Had a letter from Mr Stewart 67 who is living at Raglan - he says

[Image of page 114]

the Natives are in such an unquiet state that he expects a renewal of the war: the Europeans, he says, are banding together to defend themselves - this is sad news indeed if reliable - for the people at Port Waikato and Waiuku will suffer again if fighting begins so near as Raglan.

14. Rode to Drury; had two letters from Home, one from Edith which being her first letter to me I forward to her Aunt Eliza for her special delectation. Blanche in her letter tells me that Edith said: "It is the very first letter I have sent to a real person. I have written play letters before to my dolls but not a real letter to a real person." I have the gratification of knowing that I am to her a "real person" and not a myth.

15. I had another letter from Blanche today: last Wednesday she spent a morning with Mrs Kissling and made for the Orphans 6 frock skirts, with Mrs Kissling's machine. Martin was well enough to walk to the Barracks last Saturday to witness the ceremonial of the presentation of the Victoria Cross to Major [Charles] Heaphy: Anne also went with Mrs Kinder, Blanche also tells me that the Governor has sent invitations to "Mr, Mrs and Miss Lush" for the Birthday Ball on the 24 inst. - I hope Blannie will go but I hope I shall not go.

21. The Governor 68 having returned from the South, the Citizens determined to give him a Reception and I took Martin, Anne and Edith to Auckland to witness the procession through the streets. Fortunately for the children we got a good standing place at an upper window of Mr Hill's offices: from the back of the house they witnessed the Governor leave the Brisk and the sailors man the yards and the salute fired: and then passing to the front windows they watched the procession pass up Shortland Crescent. They had, I think, never seen so large a concourse of people and were pleased with the show, though it seemed to me a very seedy affair. Mr Quick, the coach proprietor, offered one of his carriages and eight grey horses for the Governor's conveyance from the wharf to Government House: Quick drove the eight greys himself and managed them well: the whole team certainly made a very pretty turn out.

[Image of page 115]

7 July. Rain all night - and rain this morning up to 10 o'clock: the Crispes said no one could come to Church and wished me to remain indoors with them, but I waded across the flooded fields and opened the Church doors and waited. Since I was last here Mr Orchard has put up with his own hands some very nice-looking Altar rails. While I was admiring these useful additions to our little village Church, he and his wife and 3 little children came through the rain (for it had begun again) to the Church, so we set to, to ring the bell. The Crispes followed and then two labouring men came: before I got to the 1st Lesson a party of some eight or ten came "streaming" in (streaming in more sense than one) and to my great astonishment there were in a party two mothers, each with a little baby which they had brought to be baptized.

While Heywood Crispe had gone to fetch some water I entered in to conversation with one of the mothers and found she had walked 6 miles through the forest in order to meet me this Sunday morning: she heard it was my day to be at Mauku and not wishing to delay her child's baptism any longer she had got up early and started, feeling sure I should be at my post. Poor woman, I could not help admiring her Faith and Perseverance, for she told Mrs Crispe she had been several times up to her knees in water while traversing the forest. I was certainly very glad the rain had not kept me away.

8. Breakfast at 1/2 past 7. A nice hot curry was the standard dish. Reached home at 1/2 past eleven. After dinner took Anne and Edith into town: came back loaded with oranges, which are selling at 1/0 a dozen. I have known them in Auckland selling at /4d. a piece.

9. A tempestuous night and a steady rain all day. We have had the two ends of our Verandah glazed in: our house is warmer and the verandah drier. This morning for instance all the little ones were outside (with hats and capes on) though it was so wet: in fact these glass screens have given us space equal to another room, with the advantage of being outside the house.

10. Another wet day: between showers able to work a little in the garden, planting ashleaved kidneys. Annette ill in bed all day with a cold.

[Image of page 116]

12. Left home immediately after breakfast, on Zingarie: passing through Newmarket bought a shilling's worth of maize, and oats for a feed for my horse: slung it in a bag to my saddle. At the Karaka ferry fed Zingarie and ate my lunch -- sandwiches and two glasses of sherry which I had brought from Parnell. Rode on to Waiuku: reached the Kings' soon after six, not so tired as I had expected to be after my ride of 43 miles.

14. Not a full Church at Waiuku: reached Port Waikato about 3. After Service walked to Ohutu, a native settlement, to baptize a little Maori baby who was ill - the Mother is a half-caste, sister to Mrs Stewart, but unlike Mrs Stewart who has married a European she has married a Maori - a very intelligent and good man. They live in a well-built weather-boarded house, and Mother and Baby and the rest of the family, some six little children, were all nicely dressed and awaiting my arrival. A basin filled with water and covered with a white cloth was on the table, and prayer books; I have seldom had a more decorous and solemn Baptism in a private house; the Parents responded for their child in a firm earnest tone of voice - the third godparent was an Englishman.

From the Maori settlement I retraced my steps to the Town and went to Captain Breton's where I baptized his little girl just 8 weeks old. The Captain is a very excellent man but through the misbehaviour of the little infant, who kept up a squalling, this Service I must say was not as edifying as the one at the Native's house.

15. Rode to Waiuku. Near to the village overtook a man and his wife looking very miserable: learnt that they had had their whare (raupo hut) burnt with all its contents - all their goods - leaving them literally just the clothes they had on. Had luncheon at the Kings' and then walked back to Waiuku and found that Mr Constable was busy collecting some money for these poor people. Unfortunately they had in their hut 1/2 ton of prepared flax - worth £10 - and the produce of several weeks' hard work, all of which was consumed with the rest of their goods.

16. Left Waiuku for Mauku, a vestry meeting having been called at the latter place. Rode back to the Grange with Major

[Image of page 117]

Speedy. Slept there for I presume the last time, for the Speedys will have left Mauku and be residing at Port Waikato the next time I am up this way.

18. While I was getting my tea a knock came at my door - a man said he was travelling up the country with his wife and children to live as a farm servant with the Revd Mr Pritt: 69 and that he had been informed that he could get a night's lodging in this house. Now as I view this building as the Bishop's caravansary for all members of the Church (Clerical and Laity when travelling on Church business) to use, I said: "By all means come in - there is one bedroom you can have and directly I have finished my tea you can have this kitchen." So in they came: Man, two women (one a Maori, the other a European) and 4 little girls, with 3 ducks and two guinea fowls and a lot of luggage. The women went in to the bed-room: the 4 little girls came and squatted round the fire watching me cooking a couple of mutton chops and then stood round my little table watching me eat them. As soon as I could I retired to my own bed-room where I have my books and writing-table and left the good people to their own devices.

19. The sojourners were moving at 4 o'clock and got breakfast and were off by 5: when an hour after I went into the sitting-room I found a nice fire burning and all the cups and plates washed and put up, and the room swept out and left very tidy - and more pleasant still, my own little supply of bread, butter, milk, sugar and tea which I had left at their disposal, untouched. So they must have brought their own provisions: but I marvel that they did not divide the milk between the children - had I not thought they would have done so I would have given it to them myself. They have a long journey before them, as they have to reach Point Russell 70 (17 miles) by tonight in time for the steamer tomorrow.

22. Started early for Howick: went over the ranges and through the Turanga Creek district. Reached Mr Hall's (our old Parsonage at Howick) about 2 o'clock. Went with him to the Church to copy out some registers of Baptism and then

[Image of page 118]

called on Colonel De Quincey: returned to the Halls' and had tea. Paid Mary Anne Heath her wages: she was our last remaining link with the Howick people - now that she has left us we may say to have done with the place altogether. The few people I met in passing through the Parish expressed great pleasure in seeing me, one old man exclaiming the sight of me was as salve to sore eyes. It was eight o'clock before I reached home where, thank God, I found all in good spirits and expecting me. The scarlet fever is, I am sorry to say, very prevalent all over Parnell.

27. Called at my caravansary and prepared the place for Mr Kempthorne who will occupy my rooms tonight, gave Zingarie a good feed and then rode on for St Peter's, which is to be opened tomorrow. To my dismay I found nothing in the building but 12 long forms each 12 feet long. The builder was present so I asked him "Is there no reading desk?" - "No Sir, not in my contract" - "No Communion table?" - "No Sir, not in my contract. I contracted for nothing save the nave of the Church: and I have made the 12 forms and present them as my donation." So I thanked him for them but begged him to put up at my charge a reading desk and a Communion Table - he thought there was no time - but after a bit he said they should be done. Thence I went into the Settlement and informed the people that there would be Service in the new Church. I found there would be two Christenings and I borrowed a huge Table-cloth from one of the immigrants.

3 August. I had an early breakfast and got away by nine for Mauku. Went by way of the Karaka and called at the Urquharts' and had a long rest and a capital dinner. Reached Mauku about 5, just getting dark. Mrs Crispe told me that a Mr Bregman had called twice at her house, enquiring anxiously after me - she thought he had fixed that day for his wedding day and I had sadly disappointed him by not arriving as soon as I usually do; so instead of going in at the Crispes' I turned Zingarie loose and started off on foot for Mr Cox's - the Bride's father.

Bregman met me in their paddock and relieved my mind by saying the wedding was not to be till next Tuesday the 6th inst: he had only called on the Crispes to see me to arrange about the day. I went up to the house and the Bride

[Image of page 119]

elect, a pretty girl of 19, got me a cup of tea. While I was enjoying my tea I said to her, "Sarah, if you are married next Tuesday I shall have to ride 15 miles - all the way from Papakura -- but if you will be married tomorrow I shall have no trouble for I am here on the spot. Now be a good girl and be married tomorrow - will you?" - "Well, Sir, I have no objection if you wish it" - so I appealed to the Bridegroom and of course he had no objection and to my great satisfaction I settled the wedding for tomorrow. On leaving I said that as a return for the Bride's consideration for my comfort I would promise if tomorrow turned out a very wet day, to walk up to the house and marry them in their parlour, but if it were a decidedly fine morning I would be at the Church waiting for them at 10 "sharp". Returned to the Crispes' and had a second tea.

4. A very tempestuous night and heavy showers up to eight o'clock so I got up with the impression that I had to start soon for "Cambridge Farm" to fulfil my promise to Sarah of marrying her in her Father's house, but the weather cleared up as the morning advanced and long before 10 o'clock the sun was shining as brightly and as warmly as one could wish, so I went to the Church and at 1 o o'clock the party came - the Bride - her father and two Bridesmaids - Bregman, and his "friend". Very soon after the ceremony the Congregation began to assemble: the Church was not so full as usual and we had no offertory collection, the "bag" having been forgotten.

5. Rode to Kerikeri: found the people rather excited about the rumours now going about of a payable gold field having been found up the Thames: on returning to Drury I learnt that several of the young men had started this morning for the Thames and if they send word back that they are successful there will be a general exodus of all the men from these parts to the diggings.

6. The Southern Cross gives a flourishing account this morning of the new Gold field: already some of the young men have left Drury for the Thames. Rode by the Great South Road to Pokeno - spent the whole day visiting.

7. Retraced my steps, visiting those whom I had missed yesterday. Found a strong "gold fever" seizing the people:

[Image of page 120]

numbers talking about being "off to the diggings" if the news from Thames continues favourable.

10. Off directly after breakfast, visiting till dinner time: after dinner Mr King accompanied me on horseback to several of the more distant Settlers. Called among others on a Mrs Currie who has lately had her tenth child, a boy. Told her of my naming a little girl at Pukekohe "Decima" - and I suggested that her little boy should be "Decimus", which she agreed to. Mr King and I then rode to Mr Whewell's. He lives in the biggest house in the village and keeps two maid-servants, a man-servant: and has a resident Governess for his one and only daughter. He has a nice carriage and drives in it every Sunday to his Chapel! the report is that he has £500 a year private property.

15 September. Upwards of a month since I wrote any diary: but my life has run in the same track the past month as in any former period with but little to record: the chief difference has concerned myself personally, for whereas heretofore I have been well and strong this last month I have been weak, ill and in constant pain - the lumbago in my back and an acute attack of rheumatism in my leg - the leg I broke - have made my journeys irksome in the extreme. I shall try to maintain my part till the Bishop returns, but if by that time I am not better I shall retire from this work - work better fitted for a man of 25 than for one of 45 and upward. I am now at Golding's (Wairoa Road) about to begin a Sunday's heavy work, but more fit to be in bed, my back and leg giving me so much pain. But I have felt thus many times during the last month and yet found that, according to my day and duties, so has my strength been: and He who fits the burden to the back will, I trust, fit my back to the burden, for I do not see any chance of my work being lessened.

16. Reached home very wearied: found Mamma ill, Blannie poorly, and Charlie worse than usual. Went to Auckland to order a Harmonium for Papakura Church. Town very dull, trade being unusually depressed notwithstanding the finding of a rich gold-bearing quartz reef at the Thames. In the afternoon I kept Charlie with me in the garden and we prepared some

[Image of page 121]

ground for our gourds - viz. vegetable marrows, pumpkins, water melons and rock melons: the last named are the only ones I like. I did but little of the actual work, my back and leg keeping me from using the spade.

20. Charlie and I planted our third setting of peas: directly after dinner I started for Drury. Zingarie was loaded with a bag of maize and a bundle of cast-off clothes for a poor woman at Papakura, beside my usual luggage, so I could not get on faster than a jog trot of about 5 miles an hour.

21. Rode to St Peter's in the Forest: the late gale it seems has damaged the building and the Carpenter had erected scaffolding inside to get to the cross-timbers and brace them and strengthen them: so I had to go round and inform the people that there could not be any Service tomorrow - and my weary ride hither has been in vain. Returned to Drury, calling in on my way at the Deans' where I had my tea and brought away with me a root of a pink chrysanthemum - we now have white, yellow and pink ones.

22. Spent the whole morning up to 2 o'clock in my "cell". Not expecting to be here today I had made a "clearance" yesterday when I left Drury for St Peter's, and threw out for the Middlemas's dog the remains of some meat and butter: so I had nothing but bread for my breakfast, which however I toasted: same again for my dinner. Between breakfast and dinner finished a sermon and read Burton's History of the Church.

23. Returned home last night: went with Mamma to the North Shore: the public cars running from Parnell to town and the Steamers from Auckland to the North Shore, every half hour, enable us to traverse the distance easily and cheaply. Called on Mrs Colenso, 71 Mrs George Maunsell and Mrs Wynn. Miss Colenso 72 returned with us as far as Parnell. On reaching home took Blannie to the Abrahams' where she is to stay a few days.

25. Went to town to the dentist's. On returning home found that Mamma had been obliged to fetch poor dear Blannie

[Image of page 122]

from the Abrahams' as she was suffering from a quinsy sore throat: the poor girl went to bed and is quite ill from it. Mrs Greenacre came from Papakura and staid with us

26. Blannie still very poorly. Mrs Greenacre left after breakfast: I walked a little way down Parnell to see her safe into one of the public cars. On the way took her into the Cathedral Library and the Bishop's private Chapel; she had no idea the Library was so grand a building. Went into town with Mr Kempthorne on a begging tour, on behalf of St Peter's in the Forest, but had very poor success, netting only £2. 11. 0. The town is in a frightfully distressed state: no business: no confidence; and more than half the community in a state of bankruptcy: paid another visit to the dentist. Bought 1/2 dozen Sydney oranges for poor dear Blannie - a short time ago they were ninepence a dozen - now they are 1/9d. After dinner Blannie's throat became so much worse that Mamma sent for Doctor Goldsborough.

27. Blannie in bed all day though better than yesterday. I had intended to start for Pokeno but the weather looked so lowering I remained at home.

28. Rode to St Peter's in the Forest. There was a meeting in the evening about establishing a school: upwards of £30 promised towards building a Teacher's residence. Returned with Captain Jackson 73 to his house, where I slept.

29. Up early and rode on to Pokeno and breakfasted at Dr [Henry] Weekes's. Mrs Weekes had gone to town to take Frank to the Grammar School. Had Service at 11 o'clock at the Bishop's cottage. Mr Albyn Martin was passing as the congregation assembled so he stayed the Service and rode on with me to Captain Jackson's to dinner: thence to St Peter's where we parted, he being anxious to reach his home at Otara before night fall. After Service we had another meeting about the School, then I pushed on for Drury, and so to Papakura and Goulding's at the Wairoa, where I halted for the night.

Mr Goulding had just returned from town whither he had been to attend Benjamin Smith's funeral who, poor man, had died suddenly last Friday, This Benjamin Smith 74 came from

[Image of page 123]

Five Female Servants

the neighbourhood of Farringdon and once showed me a Bible which Mr Cleaver of Great Coxwell gave him on his leaving England many years ago: through all his travels in the United States, California and Australia he had kept his Bible - though - as I told him - he did not read it as often as he should.

1 October. Mrs Weekes came with Frank: she and Blanche called on the Kinders and left Frank wih his new playfellows - Frank is just Martin's age - this is his first separation from home. Mrs Weekes remained to sleep at our house.

3. The finest day we have had for a long time. Went to Auckland, to the Dentist, to whom I now owe no less than £17: hence to Newton to call upon the Woolfields who formerly lived near Howick, and thence by Omnibus to Onehunga to see the Purchases, to arrange for dear Blannie going there for a week, for change of air: they readily agreed to take her and Mr Purchase promised to drive in for her tomorrow.

4. Started after breakfast for Drury: when near Otahuhu it commenced raining and rained without ceasing the rest of the day. In passing through Papakura I called in at the Wheelers' who kindly pressed me to stay to see what weather I may have tomorrow for the remainder of my journey to Mauku.

5. No rain but a high, cold wind blowing direct in my teeth all the way to Mauku. Went first to the Public House, kept by a man of the name of Pike: he gave me some cold ham and a pint of good beer - so I had a capital dinner. Thence to the Crispes', whose house was too full of visitors to receive me, so leaving Zingarie in their paddock I walked on to Mr Daniel Lusk's where I received a hearty welcome. Mrs Hugh Lusk is staying here with a cousin, a Miss Beale: Mrs H. Lusk and Mrs D. Lusk (two sisters) have each a baby and there were no less than five female servants in the house - an unwonted large number for New Zealand. Miss Beale gave us, or at all events me, a great treat on the Piano during the evening.

6. Too many cooks, &c., was verified, as I expected, this morning by everything and everybody being too late: however by slipping away by myself immediately after Breakfast was

[Image of page 124]

over, I got to the Church in time. There were three Baptisms after the Second Lesson - Mrs Hugh Lusk's baby, Mrs John Mellsop's (nee Miss Crispe), and one of the Immigrants.

I had a hurried ride to Drury and, feeding my horse, pushed on again for Papakura where I had my usual 4 o'clock Service. When I at last sat down in Captain Pye's easy chair about 6 o'clock I felt uncommonly tired.

7. When I went into the breakfast-room about nine o'clock I found I had to have the meal alone: the Captain and his son having breakfasted at eight. Wrote to Blanche, then went to inspect the flax Pye and his son are making in some back buildings - prepared flax is now fetching £21 a ton! - and then rode slowly to Drury where I was right glad to shut myself up in my Hermitage for the rest of the day: feeling very "Mondayish" which is not often the case with me.

8. Went to Maketu to baptize a baby: found the people very discontented at the Bishop drawing lots with Mr Norrie 75 as to who should buy the Government School House: the lot fell to Norrie, the Presbyterian, and when I get St Peter's off my hands I hope to turn my attention to Maketu - without consulting the Bishop this time. From Maketu rode on to Captain Jackson's - 2 miles beyond St Peter's Church.

9. Captain Jackson and I made a long day, going from Settler to Settler begging for subscriptions to build a Teacher's residence so that by next Xmas we may begin a School in connection with St Peter's Church: the sum we want is £50. At Pokeno hill he and I parted - he returning home, I going to Dr Weekes's. Mrs Weekes still in town.

10. Returned to Drury: on my way dined at the Deans': Sir Frederick thinks of leaving his present abode and buying an estate up the Waikato. I shall be sorry to lose them from this neighbourhood though the change may be better for him, the soil of his present farm being very poor indeed.

11. Left Drury for Waiuku, reached the Kings'. Leaving there my horse, walked to Mr Bischoff's - lent him my Colonial Church Chronicle and to his daugher the "penny post" and the Children's Prize. Bischoff is one of the few settlers I have

[Image of page 125]

met who take an interest in Church matters beyond the very narrow circle of their own parish: he is particularly interested about Natal and hopes (with me) that Butler will soon go there as Bishop of Maritzburg.

12. Left the Kings' purposing to have a long day of visiting. After calling on several people got to the Worthingtons' - Mrs Worthington has lately lost her baby and I stayed some 1/2 hour talking with her, when she said: "I suppose you have married McCloghry this morning?" I said I had not heard that Miss Bregman was to be married today: she was surprised but assured me that there must be some mistake in giving me notice for she knew the wedding party was all assembled and must be waiting for me! So off I started, rousing Zingarie out of her usual trot by a vigorous use of the spur: and riding through the forest reached the Bregmans' about 1/4 to one. Sure enough there was a large party assembled and wondering about my non-arrival, so without wasting any time by asking for an explanation, I very quickly arranged the couple, took out my Prayer Book, and in my riding-coat (for surplice, register book and marriage license were in my valise at Mr King's) I performed the ceremony and made Archibald McCloghry and Selina Bregman, man and wife. I am afraid Alfred will be shocked at my irregularities - here was a wedding - in a private house - not after banns - without a license from the Bishop - and the service read without surplice - and lastly, the chiefest offence, at the uncanonical hour of one o'clock! But I promised to meet the "happy pair" on Monday at one o'clock when I must get them to sign the marriage register, and as for the rest - why, the less said, the better.

After the Service came the marriage feast to which I was asked to stop - not that I needed any pressing thereto for if I had not this dinner I knew I should not have any; after a repast of cold turkey and ham and plum pudding I drank the bride and bridegroom's health and then retired - riding to Waiuku and calling again at the Worthingtons', where I had tea.

13. Sunday and a tolerably fine day: good congregations at both Waiuku and Port Waikato - from the last place a regular stampede is setting in, so that I am told by my next visit there will be but very few people left.

[Image of page 126]

14. A tempestuous night: wind throughout the day. The sea was magnificent, one sheet of foam, but the roaring of the wind and waves almost terrifying. Without accident, however - thank God - I reached Keroiti and went to McCloghry's house, when he and his bride signed the register of their marriage. The best man and the bridesmaid were to have met me here also to witness the signatures of Archibald and Selina but failed to come at the hour appointed, so I left and pursued my way towards Waiuku. Just outside the village I met the bridegroom's man and got him to sign the register by the roadside: then I called at the Public House where the bridesmaid was servant, and she signed in the bar parlour - and so ended this somewhat irregular marriage.

16. Had a letter from Blanche: poor Charlie very ill. Blannie still at Onehunga - and a bad prospect of getting in the few rents we have: so times are not very bright with us just now.

17. Rain, rain, rain all last night and all this morning: found this dreary place so depressing I determined to flee from it. As I was saddling Zingarie, Doctor Welby called. Inter alia told me that Papakura and Kerikeri were excited at the report that Gold had been found in the immediate neighbourhood.

Rode to Papakura, left Zingarie at the Wheelers' and walked to Captain Pye's. Found him in trouble: some cowardly wretch had come, last night, into his paddock and stabbed his cow, the only one he has, and the poor beast has bled to death. His suspicions fall on a shoemaker close by with whom he has had a dispute, and who is suspected of stabbing to death three sheep of another man with whom he has quarrelled.

19. Spent a long day visiting. The Government having withdrawn all aid from public schools, Miss Haselden loses £50 a year: now we feel the advantages of having built a residence for the Teacher. She certainly would have left and the school like many around us would have been shut up if in addition to the loss of the Government aid, she had had to pay for her lodgings. As it is I almost fear she will not remain here beyond Xmas.

20. Services at Wairoa Road - Drury and Papakura. Rode to Parnell. Found Mamma better: Blannie at home, looking

[Image of page 127]

herself again; Charlie tolerably well and Martin looking very hearty. Anne and Edith were in bed and asleep - as also Edward.

21. Annie Goulding has sent Annette and Edith each a bird's nest: one was of the ordinary shape, round and open like a breakfast cup - the other was long like a pear, with an opening on the side near the top. I also had a pheasant's egg for Edward. The three little ones were delighted with their gifts, simple as they were: the nests in particular were a novelty to them all.

Went into Auckland early: at eleven Mamma followed me and we went to a Photographer's of the name of Webster & Hanna, and Mamma was taken twice to get, if we can, a vignette likeness to match with my last one. Webster, who had taken me formerly, pressed me to sit again, offering to take an impression for nothing as he was not satisfied with the expression of my face in the last one.

27. A dull rainy morning: my congregation was small, numbering 12 souls. Dined at Captain Jackson's; the weather improved a little towards afternoon, and consequently my afternoon congregation improved also - numbering upwards of 50. Returned to Papakura: on my way had tea at Sir Frederick Dean's, which made me so late I had to remain for the night at Captain Pye's instead of pushing on to Parnell.

30. Had a small party this evening: Mr Reader Wood, Miss Govett, Miss Kinder, Mr and Mrs Ireland, Miss Abraham, Mr and Mrs Swartz Kissling, Mr Quintal and Mr Lloyd. The last is one of the masters at the Grammar School and a candidate for ordination: Quintal is one of the Pitcairn Islanders.

31. Took Anne, Edith and Edward into the town: we walked on the wharf and watched the shipping - one large vessel, the Ballarat, the Mate invited us to inspect so I took the children on board to their great delight. The Mate, a Scotchman, took us in to the cabins and in one there was a piano, and he said: "I daresay one of you little ladies could give us a tune." Anne at once sat down and played off "The Blue Bells of Scotland" to the man's delight.

[Image of page 128]

3 November. After my last service I should have gone to the Wheelers' but they are leaving Papakura to reside altogether on their farm at Mauku, so I went to Captain Pye's and had tea and accommodation for the night: Captain Pye has gone to the Thames Diggings. Made a rough calculation of the number of miles I ride each month and find it comes to 320. I say "rough calculation" because I have only counted up the miles from place to place and not the many miles beside which I must ride in striking off the main roads to reach the various Settlers' houses. I daresay the number could reach 350 if all my wanderings were fully measured - I have done this now for 2 years and a half, which at 320 a month would give 10,240 miles (13 months in the year).

7. Spent the morning at the Weekeses': rode on to Mr Harris's where I met Mr Hall 76 of Howick who, with Mr Alfred Harris, was making a short visiting tour through my district: Mr Hall tells me that very many of the men at Howick and Turanga had left their farms and gone to the Gold diggings, and that many of them had sent word to their wives that they were doing well, having found some rich quartz.

The Harris house containing but two bedrooms (one a mere closet) and one sitting-room and a small lean-to of a kitchen, I saw at a glance that I had better seek my night-quarters elsewhere if I wished to sleep in comfort, so I desired Alfred not to turn my horse loose as I should ride on after tea - so, after a hearty and somewhat merry tea, I again mounted Zingarie and rode on to the next farm-house, about 3 miles off - fortunately the good folk were still up and, though comparative strangers to their district and almost total strangers to me, they gave me a hearty welcome but were somewhat offended I was not prepared for a second tea and then that I declined a tumbler of very strong whisky punch. However I talked the man, [T.] Twidle, into good humour and after Prayers got a very capital shake-down made on the parlour sofa, where I slept very soundly. Before 5 all the household were moving, so I arose and went out for a turn in the stock-yard to look at the calves (some 23 in all) being fed. From the Twidles' to the Kings' the distance is about 25 miles

[Unpaginated illustration]

[Unpaginated illustration]

[Unpaginated illustration]

[Unpaginated illustration]

[Image of page 129]

- so I had a long ride before me, and from the nature of the country an uninteresting one.

9. This morning suffered extremely from rheumatic pains all down my right leg. The accounts from the Thames gold field are so encouraging that every [one] seems to be getting unsettled: one man this week has extracted 60 oz of gold from 112 lbs of quartz. It is calculated that if a man can obtain 1 oz of gold from 1 ton of quartz it "pays" - well what must 1,200 oz to 1 ton be! Enough to turn a miner's head. But it is quite a chance whether the man in question will light upon another cwt of quartz equally rich with the precious metal.

10. The wind was very high all the afternoon so I had anything but a pleasant ride to Port Waikato, where I had but some 30 at the Service and half of them children. Spent the evening with the Bretons.

11. Walked over to the Spargoes': they have lived here for many years, long before it became an English settlement, but even Spargo has determined to leave - and Breton is going to the "diggings", so I fear if Blannie does not come with me next month there will be no one to receive us, two months hence.

Had a great difficulty in getting Zingarie across - the swim is too long - quite 3/4 of a mile, and the tide carried us down a long way. Rode across the sand-hills and called on sundry people in the Maioro Settlement. Reached the Kings' at 3 o'clock: soon after Mr King and Hemi Manu, a fine tall, well-dressed Native, came in. This man (Hemi) I owe £174 and this evening I paid him £4. 7. 0 interest thereon for the last quarter and £20 of the principal: reducing my debt to £124. He called me a Tika rangatira - i.e. an honest gentleman.

18. Wrote to Mr Goulding asking him to lend Blannie his pony and to send it to Papakura by Captain Pye, telling him that I was going to make his house a rendezvous for my daughter and self. Had a letter from Dr Weekes asking me to escort a Miss Ormsby to Pokeno on Friday; so I wrote also to Mrs Weekes to warn her that she would have Blanche as well as Miss Ormsby for her guest on Friday.

[Image of page 130]

19. In the afternoon rode to Onehunga to arrange with the Ormsbys where Miss O. should meet me at 10 o'clock on Friday: called on our Barbara Gordon fellow-traveller, Mrs Warrington.

21. I went to the Cathedral Library to attend a Committee meeting of St Peter's Church: the debt is only £33. Mr Kempthorne lends for one year £20 so the amount immediately pressing upon us is but £13, a very satisfactory state of things considering the extreme hardness of the times. In the evening Blannie and I went to the Grammar School where a large number of Ladies and Gentlemen were assembled to practise over our Service chorally, Mr Kinder wishing to open his new Church at Epsom with a full choral Service. Blannie took her place among the singers - Mr Purchas acted as Precentor. This is their third rehearsal: they have but one more for the Church, "St Andrew's", is to be opened on the 30th of the month.

22. Up early: went to the Bishop's and brought Zingarie to our house - gave her a good feed of maize and bran while Blannie and I were having our breakfast. We started a little before eight, Bella 77 carrying Blanche's luggage as far as New Market where we stopt at a saddler's for the passing of the Papakura Van. I came by and saw B. comfortably seated with her luggage inside with her and her saddle and bridle on the roof of the Van. I followed on Zingarie. Soon after it began to rain and continued raining heavily till I very nearly reached the place where I was to meet Miss Ormsby. I got to the spot and waited - sorely against my inclination - till 11 o'clock - and then I put the spur into Zingarie and followed dear Blannie to Papakura.

As I got near to Captain Pye's I was glad to see Goulding's pony grazing in his paddock, and very glad to see directly after Blannie and Mrs Pye - so far, so good - the Captain is still at the diggings and the son has gone there too, so Mrs Pye is quite alone. We had some dinner and then I went out to catch the Pony, when I saw on the road a lady on horseback, accompanied by a lad. As they drew near it proved to be Miss Ormsby - the rain in the morning had

[Image of page 131]

unsettled them, not knowing what we should do, and Mrs Ormsby had sent into town (a ride of 12 miles) to ascertain whether I should start or not! Finding I had done so the young lady pursued us as far as Papakura.

I took her in and introduced her to Mrs Pye and Blannie and then I went out and got the horses ready. It was not long before we were on the road again, reaching Dr Weekes's, where we had an enjoyed good tea, and ended the evening with a rubber of whist.

23. The young ladies very stiff and Miss Ormsby quite unwilling to get into her saddle again today, but Blannie accompanied me a short ride to Captain Jackson's.

24. A most tempestuous night - rain, wind, hail and thunder continuously. The morning broke very gloomily and there was great doubt as to whether Blannie should accompany me [to Church]: the Weekeses and Miss Ormsby determined to remain at home. However, the sun coming out though rather feebly, Blannie and I set out. There were but 6 persons present: it was a treat to me to hear Blanny's clear, musical voice in the chaunts and hymns. There was one storm during service and then it became finer and we went on towards St Peter's Church, Ramarama [Bombay], but near the foot of the Razorback another storm burst upon us and though we galloped to the top, where a small store is, we both got sadly wet: we sheltered ourselves [in] the store till the storm was over, Mrs Pope the owner of the place attending to Blannie and wringing out the water from her riding-dress: then we went on to the Proudes', where Blannie got some dry things and we had dinner. Mr Proude was for none of us going out again, feeling sure there would be no one at Church but Captain Jackson called in on his way to the Church and said he saw 2 or 3 people standing about waiting for me: so, leaving Blannie by the side of a good fire and with Mrs Proude, we three gentlemen went to St Peter's, where I had a congregation of nine. After Service Blannie and I started and by dint of hard riding got to the Weekes's without rain, though a storm was impending all the way, and before we had been in 5 minutes came down in torrents.

This has been a most remarkable year as regards the weather - it is now six months! since we had settled fine weather

[Image of page 132]

- we have had now and then a beautifully fine day, but the weather has been unsettled - rainy - cold - windy and tempestuous for the last six months. As we sat round the Weekeses' fire and listened to the downpour of hail I was truly thankful that I had been firm and resisted the Proudes' pressing invitation to stay and have tea with them.

25. Rain all night: by breakfast time it was finer so we agreed to venture as far as Meremere to give Blanche and Miss Ormsby a glimpse of the Waikato. The Doctor came with us. The girls enjoyed their ride and thought, as everybody must, that the Waikato was a fine noble river. We went along the Great South Road, passing the celebrated Queen's Redoubt now fast crumbling into ruins: such as it is, still Blannie was glad to see it because formerly she had so often heard me speak of it. Then we crossed the Maungatawhiri creek, the crossing of which by General Cameron 78 and the soldiers was looked upon by the Waikato natives as a declaration of war. We rode over the bridge the General had to put up before he could advance further: we then traversd a substantial but somewhat narrow causeway across an immense swamp - this seems to me a dangerous piece of road for if we had met Cobb's coach coming along at the usual pace of 4 or 6 horses in full gallop, and our horses had been at all restless as it dashed by, some of us might have found ourselves floundering in the swamp, out of which a horse could hardly extricate himself.

However no such trouble happened and we reached Mercer - alias Point Russell - all right. This town, like Port Waikato, was the result of the war and the war having ceased these towns have lost the business which created them and have collapsed as quickly as they arose. In Mercer there are three hotels - one a very large handsome building - but without any business doing, and though the place could not fail of looking pretty because of its beautiful situation, it looked deadly lively in the extreme.

We rode gently through it and turning along the banks of the Waikato, pursued our way to Wangamarina creek, across which there is a long and handsome wooden bridge: this we

[Image of page 133]

crossed and went a mile and a half further on, still along the banks of the Waikato, to a hill called Meremere where there had been formerly a native Pah, which General Cameron took and converted into a redoubt. Into this redoubt - now fast crumbling into an indefinable bank and ditch - we rode our horses and let them loose to graze while we enjoyed our luncheon and the extensive prospect on all sides.

26. We got home from our ride to Meremere yesterday about half past four: all the evening it rained: all last night it rained: all today it has rained. What has become of our once beautiful climate? Something is surely wrong with the moon or the sun or something.

27. After raining all night it seemed to promise to hold up - so we bade the Weekeses and Miss Ormsby goodbye and started for my "cell". We had only four showers and during the heaviest we happened to be in a cottage at Maketu whither I had gone to baptize a child. We reached Drury about 3 o'clock. I bought a loaf and mutton chops and we got dinner, I cooking, and I am bound to say Blannie acknowledged that I really could cook a chop remarkably well: if the proof of the pudding, &c., is a true saying I had the satisfaction of seeing her eat two chops, while I managed to stow away three. This is Blannie's first visit to my Hermitage: I had intended after dinner to take her to a Mrs Smith's, where I knew she would be comfortably housed, but when she had looked around my three rooms she determined to stay with me. After dinner she began setting my place to rights and it was with some difficulty I could make her lay aside the Herculean task about 6 o'clock to go with me to the Worthingtons', where we spent the evening.

28. As this has been the climax of all our bad days for rain I don't think there could be a worse, and I hope it may be the last.

29. The finest day we have had for some time: after breakfast I rode over to Papakura to see Doctor Welby, who I fear is dying. It was one o'clock before I got back to my rooms, which dear Blannie has made quite spruce compared to what they were when she arrived.

[Image of page 134]

Then I went to the Post Office for letters - had one from Charlie who tells me Mamma has fallen down and sprained her ancle and has been confined to her bed for two days, but is decidedly better. As Charlie added that she particularly desired neither of us should return to Parnell, we determined after a slight korero upon the subject to carry out our intention of riding on to Mauku.

30. Rain, wind, wind and rain all day with hardly any cessation. Blannie and I were prisoners in Mrs Crispe's drawingroom, where we spent a somewhat long, dull day, reading, writing, yawning and wishing for fine weather. Mr Orchard came and sat an hour with us in the afternoon and amused Blannie with his adventures on the Thames Goldfield. Mrs Crispe was, most of the day, ill in bed.

1 December. Mrs Crispe much worse this morning: her daughter Mrs Robinson came after breakfast, and after going in to see her Mamma told us she had a bad quinsy sore throat. I was somewhat puzzled what to do with Blannie - it had been settled that she should remain here till next Thursday when, on my way to Waiuku, I could call for her. This arrangement however could not now be carried out.

I began Service: when the Prayers were nearly ended two ladies arrived on horsebock - to my surprise one was Clara King from Waiuku, the other Miss Bayliss, so after Church I introduced Blannie to them and agreed that she should return with them to Knockmaroon, where Miss Bayliss lives and where Clara is staying, and then to go on with Clara to Waiuku whenever she returns home.

4. Went to the [Drury] post for letters - had one from Blannie with "Immediate" on the envelope. I thought she had met with some accident but found it merely informed me that after I left the Crispes' on Sunday, Mrs Crispe had got up and would not allow Blannie to leave her house so soon: after dinner I rode to the Crispes' and then found the bird had flown, Blannie having left this morning for Waiuku, escorted by Mr H. Crispe. I remained at Mrs Crispe's, for coming hither I had got sadly wet, having been caught in a storm.

5. Left Mauku for Waiuku; went over the bald hills making several pastoral visits on my route so that I was from nine

[Image of page 135]

till four accomplishing the 12 miles: found Blannie happy and well. After a few minutes' rest she and Clara and I walked to the Speedys' - the Major had fallen from his horse and broken his collar-bone - a bad accident for a man between 60 and 70.

7. Went to the Speedys' and staid tea. The Major better but confined to the couch.

8. Blannie and Miss Loretta King accompanied me to Port Waikato: we went by the way of the West Coast for I wished Blannie to have at least one good gallop of six miles on the sands: the sea was magnificently rough and it would have been a satisfactory ride had not a violent storm overtaken us.

8 January 1868. Not having written my diary since the middle of December when Blannie and I were at Port Waikato, I must go back in my thoughts to that visit and make a brief summary of proceedings from that date to this day. On the Monday Blannie and I were at Port Waikato, Captain Breton took us and Loretta King up the river to Kohanga. Blannie enjoyed the row vastly and thought the Waikato not only a magnificent river but very pretty, its broad surface near Kohanga being studded with many thickly wooded islands, useless however for habitation as they are often in a state of swamp at high tide. Kohanga is - or was - the Missionary station where Archdeacon Maunsell and family used to live.

Blannie having heard her Mamma talk of this place - for she came here 7 years ago when the Maunsells lived here - was anxious to see it, but on arrival at the place Captain Breton allowed us but 10 minutes: otherwise, as he said, he would lose the tide and perhaps be stuck on the sand-banks on returning and not get back to Port Waikato before nightfall; so our visit there was of the most hurried nature, Loretta and Blannie running through the house, Church, dormitories - all in a miserably neglected and ruinous state - while I chatted to Mrs Revell about the school her husband is conducting. As the end of 15 minutes we were back again in the boat and got to Port Waikato by 1 o'clock: had dinner at the Bretons': went and baptized Mr Fenton's child, and then rode back to Waiuku.

[Image of page 136]

The next day Blannie was unable to resume her riding so we remained quietly at the Kings' and the following day returned to Drury - or rather to Papakura - where Blannie slept. On the following Saturday she returned to Parnell, looking as Mamma said - as everybody thought - vastly better for her "out".

On the eve of Xmas day, Martin and Blannie and I went to the Mechanics Institute to hear The Messiah. The Hall was crowded and that very beautiful Oratorio was given with the largest and most efficient muster of amateurs that had ever assembled in Auckland.

On Xmas day I and Blannie, Martin, Anne and Edith, went to St Mary's Church, which was decorated but not very prettily: in the evening I cut down a young pine, and Martin and I fitted up a Xmas tree, to the great delight of all. The Tree was loaded with gifts from "every one to every one" so we were all happy.

The next day I left home for Pokeno, returning on the 30th, so I had the pleasure of hearing the Cathedral chimes toll the old year out and ring the New Year in on the night of the 31st. On the 1st of January all the Church of England Sunday School held festival in the Domain. On the 3rd January I rode to Mauku: I begin to find the riding has been too much. This long journey, some 40 miles, brought on several pains so I wrote to Dr Weekes saying I should come and buy his carriage and harness which he had before offered to me for £12.

6. Rode to Pokeno, reaching Dr Weekes's before the Doctor was up. After a little korero I got the carriage, harness and some "&c." for £12. 12. 0. and at eleven harnessed Zingarie, who drew willingly, so I had no trouble with her, as I feared might have been the case. The harness is good - silver-plated mountings - and I dare say when new cost 16 or 18 guineas. The carriage is a low 4-wheel one, very strong but very shabby and will require 2 or 3 pounds laid out upon it to make it look well.

I reached Parnell and Mamma and the children all came trooping out to see my new purchase: which, now I have got it, I am sadly puzzled to know what to do with, for I have no coach-house and no yard. After some cogitation I

[Image of page 137]

asked our neighbours to let it stand in their yard, and the boys took up some canvas sheeting and covered it up from the sun.

On the 7th went to Auckland to see Doctor and Mrs Welby of Papakura off in the Siam which sails today for England: she takes nearly 60 Passengers. Yesterday I again left Parnell for Drury - this time in my carriage and accompanied with Charlie and Martin. I begin already to fear that this conveyance will be too heavy for these roads: we were certainly much longer [doing] this distance than I should have been if on horseback. The boys enjoyed their drive, Martin particularly - he was in high spirits. After we had attended to the horse, harness and carriage (throwing over it a large canvas sheet by way of shed) and lighted our fire, it was near eight o'clock and all three began to be very hungry, so the boys ran across to the shop (Mrs Middlemas) for bread, ham, butter and milk and came back bringing only butter and milk for there was no bread to be had in the place, and no ham. So I went off to the Worthingtons' and stated my difficulty and they gave me their only loaf - and 2 lbs of very fine bacon - the mere sight of which did the boys good. The carriage has certainly been a great saving of fatigue to me today - and if I only use it between Auckland and Drury (22 miles) and thus save myself four times 22 miles every month, it will be £12. 12. 0 not badly laid out. I and the boys drove to Papakura and dined at Mrs Pye's, where I left Charlie, and Martin returned with me to Drury. Secured a good supply of bread from Mrs Middlemas - fresh baking -- and Martin returned the Worthington loaf.

10. Sent Martin over on foot to Papakura to see how Charlie was getting on: told him to dine at the Pyes' and get back to Drury about 5. I went to Pokeno on Zingarie: called on Mr Hair, my Drury churchwarden, and asked him to lend Martin a horse tomorrow, that he might be able to ride with me to Waiuku. He offered to meet us with it at the turning from the Great South Road which leads to Waiuku -- half-way between Drury and his house - at 8 tomorrow. This Mr Hair was one of the passengers in the Polar Star which was burnt at sea in the year /54, when his wife died as mentioned

[Image of page 138]

in The Memorials of Sergeant Marjouram under the designation "Mrs H". The present Mrs H. is his third wife: the other Mrs H. mentioned in the Memorials was his 2nd wife.

11. We left Drury and met Mr Hair and his son about the appointed spot with a horse and a pony. He gave Martin his choice and Martin selected the pony, a pretty little plump quiet creature which Martin found cantered most easily. Rode on to the Kings', which we reacht in time for dinner. I went with Mr King into the village and thence we called upon the Speedys - the Major felt obliged to go to Onehunga for further medical advice - he seems but in a poor way.

18. Directly after breakfast Martin and I left for Drury: the drive was intensely hot and most thankful were we for a cup of tea though the procuring of it cost us the trouble of lighting a fire and making an obstinate kettle to boil. We then packed up all our "traps" and took the carriage in to Papakura, leaving it at the Pyes' while we pushed on to the Gouldings' (Wairoa Road), Martin and I riding and tying. 79 Had some peach pie at tea - Goulding had some 40 fine peach trees, all of them standards. One I paced across from the extremity of a bough on one side to the extremity of a bough on the other, and the stretch was 25 feet. On almost every bough the peaches are hanging as thick as onions when tied on a rope.

25. A desperately hot day. Dr Weekes was not at home but his wife and daughter gave me a kind welcome and a good dinner, of which I stood in much need: walked with "Arminell" (queer Xtian name for a girl) to the orchard almost a mile and a half from the house and brought back two kits full of peaches, looking most beautiful but hardly ripe.

27. Drove to town and found the household in some excitement, for some stables opposite had taken fire and been burnt to the ground, and, not being more than a couple of chains off our house, naturally placed my premises in considerable jeopardy - all fear of danger was however over before I arrived - but Annette had hardly recovered from the excitement the catastrophy had thrown her into, for she gave the alarm not only to Mamma but to the owners of the stables.

[Image of page 139]

In the afternoon we had six young ladies to a game of Croquet, and they spent a pleasant evening - Music - Singing - a game of Squails 80 - a game at Publishing and a Charade brought us up to half past ten, when Mr Roskruge came for his sisters and Mr Kempthorne for his daughters.

29. Mrs Mclndoo, to whose husband the stables opposite had belonged, came over to tell us that the elder brother of the lad who had set them on fire had called to express his sorrow for the calamity and to promise to make it good, if no further notice were taken of it. The boy who set the place on fire is under 10 years of age and had just previously been setting the Bishop's fence on fire: going past the Cathedral Library this afternoon I saw some two or three chains of his furze fence destroyed - the work of this young incendiary.

2 February. I started for Drury - but only to get wet to the skin long before I reached that lively village for I rode the last seven miles in an awful downpour. I went straight to the village shop and told Polly to let anybody who might come to the Church know that there could be no Service for "Mr Lush had gone to bed". For this is just what I did, having first made as large a fire as possible to dry all my dripping garments.

Before I got between the blankets a loud rapping was made at my door and, wrapping a blanket about me Maori fashion, I shouted "Come in" - and in was driven by the storm young Worthington, with a couple of plates enclosed in a towel: he was evidently astonished at the apparition before him but stammered out: "Please Sir - Mother's sent you some dinner." - "Thank you," said I, "put it down and be off." - "Mother said, Sir, I was to stop and make you a cup of tea." - "Be off," I shouted, "I don't want any tea!" And off the little chap shot, grinning from ear to ear at catching me in such a costume.

I got into bed and undid the towel to look at my dinner - it was a nice large bit of sucking-pig with plenty of gravy and lots of stuffing but no salt and no vegetables - however I was hungry and sat up and enjoyed it - and thanks to

[Image of page 140]

dear Blannie's care I had two glasses of sherry in my haversack which helped it down, and then I went to sleep.

Saddled Zingarie and started for the Wairoa: young Worthington's elder brother overtook me and I found out how it happened his mother should know my recent predicament - he himself had called in at Middelmas's to know whether there would be any Service and ascertaining how I was situated had returned home and reported my wet condition - hence the unexpected dinner. Reached the Gouldings' - had a second tea - and then persuaded Mrs G. to let me sleep on the parlour sofa and have a good fire in the room: by this plan I finished the drying of my clothes.

3. Rode back to Parnell on Mr Goulding's pony - leading Zingarie - at Newmarket the pony shied violently, throwing itself - and me - against the shaft of a light cart, and down I tumbled against the carthorse's legs: fortunately the driver was enabled to stop his vehicle or it must have passed over me. Except feeling a little dizzie there was no harm done to me. The pony tried to bolt but it being cattle market day there were many on the spot to catch it, and within a quarter of an hour, I reached home.

4. I went to a Clerical meeting at Dr Maunsell's: the election of a successor to Bishop Selwyn seemed to be studiously avoided by all the Clergy - why I cannot say.

5. This afternoon Blannie and left home for the Urquharts' (Karaka), she on the pony, I on Zingarie: Just beyond Newmarket the wretched little pony shied very suddenly, as with me before, and pitched dear poor Blannie on to the hard scoria. Fortunately she was not hurt and after sitting on the roadside for a few minutes she remounted and we resumed our journey, reaching the Karaka Ferry. The horses swam well together after the boat and we got to the Urquharts' in nice time for tea. Though our visit was unexpected we received a very hearty welcome. The Urquharts are particularly grieved about the Bishop's acceptance of Lichfield: they were personal friends of the Bishop's and feel his loss very much.

6. After breakfast I walked down to the Ferry to call on the Ferryman's family. His Father, an old man 81 years of age,

[Image of page 141]

lives with him, a fine hale old man with all his faculties: he has been upwards of half a century away from England, having landed where Sydney now stands, where there were but a few tents on the beach.

7. Leaving Blanche with her friend Miss Urquhart, I rode off for the Mauku. Towards evening approached Waiuku when I met a Settler who told me that Major Speedy had died the evening before. This will be a terrible loss to his family for their whole income drops with his life - it may also lead to Mr King's losing the office he now holds of Clerk to the Bench.

8. Called upon Mrs Speedy and, with her consent, on Constable, the leading settler in Waiuku, to arrange with him about the funeral on Monday.

10. Visited a sick person: and at 1 o'clock went to Mrs Speedy's house. Here the Volunteer Cavalry Corps were assembled and about 100 settlers on horseback. Mr Constable lent a waggonette for the coffin and an American Buggy for Mrs Speedy and the girls - Havelock, a little boy of nine, rode immediately after the coffin as chief mourner. When the procession reached the lower Mauku it was met by about 50 more settlers on horseback - after a rest of half an hour I proceeded to the grave, and the volunteers took up their position on one side -- Mrs Speedy and the girls on the other, and the multitude, many still on horseback, grouped around as best they liked. I thought of Jacob's burial and "the very great company" which followed him from Egypt to the threshing floor of Atad: for there was a "Great company" if not of chariots, certainly of horsemen around the burial place of poor Major Speedy.

At the close of the service the Volunteers fired thrice over the grave - then all was over, and the multitudes began to disperse, the horsemen speeding on their several ways far faster than they assembled. I returned with Mr Urquhart and his son to the Karaka.

11. Left the Urquharts' after breakfast. Rode to Howick to the Macleans'. Blannie very tired when we got there: went into the village alone, visited my children's graves and gratified

[Image of page 142]

at seeing them kept very neatly. Called upon a few people. It was late when I returned to Bleak House.

12. Reached home - Blannie has therefore had an out of six days and looks all the better for the change. Mr Urquhart called but would not stay.

14. Rode Goulding's pony, leading Zingarie, to the Wairoa Road.

21. Remained at home since the 17th. This morning drove to Drury thence rode to Razor-back hill and spent the evening with the Jacksons: here I learnt disastrous news as regards our proposed school in connection with St Peter's in the Forest. Captain Jackson, Mr Proude and myself have collected 65£ to build a Teacher's residence - intending immediately the house was finished to secure the services of a Teacher and to open a school. We had called upon a Mr Martyn (a Wesleyan) and a Mr Rutherford (a Presbyterian) and they had promised their assistance, and apparently took an interest in the project, but a fortnight ago had engaged a lady as a Teacher and Mr Martin had given her and her husband a cottage near rent-free, and they had stolen a march upon us and opened a school in opposition to the one we proposed. I must admit of being intensely disgusted, but as I cannot do the business single-handed there is nothing for it but to grin and bear it.

23. Called a meeting after service and again urged upon the Committee to go on with the building of a Teacher's residence - but in vain. The only point I gained was that the money in hand should not be returned immediately to the donors, but retained by Captain Jackson for six months, in case the dissenters' school should fail and so again leave the field clear for us.

24. Up at 3 o'clock: left Drury in my Carriage by 4 o'clock: it is rather a nervous thing harnessing a horse in the dark - but fortunately Zingarie is a very quiet beast. Reached home before eight - went to St Mary's Church, today being the first day of the seventh annual session of the Diocesan Synod. The important business of the Synod, the Nomination of a successor to Bishop Selwyn, was deferred.

[Image of page 143]

26 March. Yesterday we were horrified by hearing that the Duke of Edinburgh had been fired at and wounded while attending a pic-nic at Sydney - a wretched Fenian is said to be the perpetrator of this atrocious crime. I feel for the poor Queen.

Miss Urquhart has been staying with us since Monday the 23rd - she left today. She and her brother came to town to go with us to the Choral Society's concert on last Tuesday evening. It was a great success - we had Spohr's Last Judgement, Blannie is one of the singers. She takes great interest in these concerts, going once a week to practise with between 70 and 80 other vocalists, many of them her personal friends: they give a concert once a quarter.

27. Martin began French today - last evening I gave him his first lesson in Greek. Tonight he has gone down Parnell to see some Dissolving Views, shown by his Drawing Master for the benefit of the Parochial Schools.

28. Attended the Governor's 81 first Levee. There was a greater attempt at "Pomp and Ceremony" than at any levee of Sir George Grey.

The congregation at St Mary's this morning was smaller than usual - Doctor Maunsell supposed that many of the people had gone to St Paul's to see the new Governor. Mr Kinder's new Church at Epsom [St Andrew's] is quite a model of a small wooden Church.

30. A very wet day: the Governor has had bad weather ever since his arrival: for many weeks previously we had the most splendid weather, and hearing that they had expressed themselves disappointed with Wellington - the town and the climate - "we", that is the Aucklanders, had hoped he would have arrived while our gloriously fine weather lasted, that Lady Bowen might have enjoyed riding and driving about - but there has been an almost continuous storm ever since they landed last Tuesday. Lady Bowen is a native of Greece: she will hold receptions on Wednesdays and Saturdays from 12 to 2. On one of these Blanche and Blannie will go to Government House and pay their respects to her.

[Image of page 144]

1 April. Blanche and I attended Prayers at the Bishop's private Chapel: After Service we sat for a time in the drawing-room and Lady Martin kindly read us various extracts from letters she had received from Mrs Selwyn.

We then returned home and, leaving directions about the children's dinner, we went to Government House to call upon Lady Bowen. It was a public reception day -- a sort of drawing-room - the band of the 18th were stationed on the lawn in front of the chief entrance. We wrote our names in a book on the Hall table and then a servant conducted us to the entrance of the drawing-room and shouted out: The Reverend Mr Lush and Mrs Lush. Lady Bowen came across the room and expressed herself glad to see us, and asked us to sit down. She had hardly regained her chair before the servant announced other visitors - and others, and more again. The room was full when we entered, and after sitting for a few minutes and having a good look at the Governor's wife we got up - as the others did - bowed, and made our exit. Outside it was pleasant enough - a fine afternoon - smooth lawn - a splendid band and lots of friends. So we walked about and chatted and enjoyed ourselves.

29. A general holiday: there was a Regatta and a grand Ball given by the Citizens to the Governor and Lady Bowen. Martin, directly after breakfast, went off with the Boarders at Mr Kinder's and did not return till tea time. He had witnessed the Regatta from the wharf and enjoyed himself as a schoolboy out on a holiday is sure to do. The Earl of Pembroke 82 is Patron of the Regatta.

I bought a ticket for the Ball for Blannie and at 1/2 past eight I took her to the Reader Woods', as she is going with Mrs Wood and Miss Govett: she looked very nice in her white dress and a blue wreath of flowers round her head. The ball is likely to be a very gay and very crowded affair: Sir George Bowen, Sir George Grey, the Earl of Pembroke, and Lady Bowen are expected to be present.

[Image of page 145]

30. Mamma left home this morning for Mr Daniel Lusk's at the Mauku. She travelled by the Coach to Drury. By starting very early I got to Drury an hour before the coach, so I managed to have a good fire and a cup of tea ready for her in my hermitage against her arrival. After a rest of an hour we left Drury for Mauku in the carriage I sold to the Worthingtons: Blanche very tired, not being accustomed to travelling of late.

2 May. Rode to Pukekohe West. Here I am about to commence a monthly service, in the place of the one I had on the first Sunday in each month at Port Waikato. Called at several of the Immigrants' houses to "warn" of the service tomorrow, and finally rested at a Mr Moore's - the village storekeeper - the only weatherboard house in the settlement: and this house is but 20 feet by 12 with a "lean-to" behind: However notwithstanding their confined accommodation - but 4 rooms and one of them the shop - I had a bedroom to myself and slept comfortably enough.

4. Service at 11 in a small unfinished schoolroom: the room was crowded. This is the first Church service held here since the settlement was formed, now just 3 years ago. The people did not know how to behave - when to stand - to sit - to kneel -- and for some time there was but one person who made the responses. Two or three joined in at the Psalms. Several expressed themselves well pleased at this commencement of a Church Service in their Settlement.

5. Rode back to the Lusks' at Mauku: found Mamma enjoying herself - she had been to spend the evening at Mrs Crawford's and yesterday evening at the Orchards'.

6. Mamma on the Lusks' pony and I on Florence started after breakfast for the Urquharts' -- as Blanche could not or dared not go out of a walk we were nearly five hours doing what I could have easily trotted in two hours - so we reached the Urquharts' late in the day and very wearied. However we had a very cordial welcome and a nice dinner and a good rest, so that by tea time Mamma was able to enjoy herself. This was Mamma's first visit to this house and first interview with Mrs Urquhart.

[Image of page 146]

8. Rode with Mamma to Lady Dean's - had dinner there and spent the evening with the Crispes.

11. Wished the Lusks goodbye and set our faces homewards. Mr Robinson drove Blanche to Papakura and I rode as usual: we went to Mrs Smith's, where Blanche was able to rest for an hour before she went on by the Coach. I meanwhile reached Parnell some little time before the Coach was due at Newmarket, so I sent Charles, Martin and Edward to Newmarket to met their Mamma and carry her luggage. The children looked well - they were delighted to have us back again.

12. Took the two little girls and Edward to see some wild beasts shown in Auckland - a remarkably fine Lion and Lioness - a leopard - two bears and some monkeys. The children were highly pleased.

16. Left town for Wairoa.

17. Services at Wairoa, Drury and Papakura: the gold diggings are completely emptying these districts - soon I shall have no congregations left.

18. The Governor having fixed this day for commencing his journey to the Waikato, the people at Papakura and Drury were on the qui vive to see and welcome him: a triumphal arch was thrown across the road at Papakura and a yet more pretentious one across the road at Drury. I and Mr Worthington went to the Inn at Drury and at 1 o'clock His Excellency arrived in a covered Van accompanied by the Superintendent, Captain Hope, Major Heaphy, Mr Lempriere and the Honourable J. C. Richmond.

Mr Mellsop introduced me to the Governor; and to my surprise, but I own, much pleasure, the Governor when they went to luncheon asked me to join them. The Governor is a pleasant affable man and made a good dinner and drank many glasses of champaign [sic] and seemed thoroughly to enjoy himself. After luncheon the people presented an address, and the Governor gave an answer that elicited much cheering, amidst which he took his departure for Point Russell [Mercer] where he and his party will sleep tonight.

[Image of page 147]

1-5 June. Five wet days spent by me very quietly and happily at home. Charlie better but very quiet and dreamified.

6. Left home with a heavy heart - full of anxiety about Charlie: rested a couple of hours at Drury, where I made a fire, got a cup of tea and then pushed on for Pukekohe West. Went, as on my last visit, to an emigrant's house of the name of Moore, who kindly received me, giving me some tea and resigning his own bed for my use.

7. Last night was intensely cold: as I lay in bed I could see the stars through divers holes in the roof and so I was thankful it did not rain. I was out early for the bedroom was also the sitting-room. I thought that the sooner I was out of the way the sooner breakfast would be got ready: when I went outside the whole country was one sheet of white hoar frost - the whitest I have seen since I left England. The grass was quite crisp and the whole scene reminded me of the old country. When I went in for breakfast Jane Moore brought in for me to see a round piece of ice nearly an inch thick - this was certainly the thickest ice I have seen in the last eighteen years.

Went to the humble shed called the School Room - had a tolerable congregation: among them were Mr Benjamin Harris, wife and sister - they must have ridden six miles to come to the Service. At the close of my third Service I began to feel very faint for I had had no time to take anything since breakfast, so I gladly accepted an invitation to have tea with Mr and Mrs Greenacres and enjoyed, as I did the last time, tea with some cold pheasant.

When I left the Greenacres' I rode to Mr Mellsop's and asked for a bed - he being quite alone was glad to see me and stayed up talking till I was nearly falling asleep in my chair.

8. Ten o'clock when we breakfasted! Think of the two bachelors, Mellsop and I, indulging in bed till half past nine! But he is always frightfully (or as Annette would have said "awfully") late.

1 August. Left home after dinner and rode to Drury: slept at the cottage, cold and cheerless enough.

A miserable morning, a stiff gale blowing from the southwest with constant sharp showers of sleet and hail. I had before

[Image of page 148]

me a ride of 10 miles over an open country for the first six miles and then through a forest with mud up to the horse's knees; and my heart failed me and I remained shut up in my rooms, writing a sermon. I sallied forth and went to Drury Church, then rode on to Papakura: got a bed at Mr Mellsop's the Resident Magistrate.

4. Started for Tuakau and Pukekohe. Went along the Great South Road to Pokeno, then through a dreadfully bad forest track to Tuakau, where I expected to baptize a baby - but the poor little thing had died a few days ago. Mr and Mrs Twidle gave me a most hospitable welcome.

10. Went to the Orchards' to see their new flax mill. At 10 o'clock attended a Vestry meeting in the [Mauku] Church: After dinner set my face homeward - it is now nine days since I left and I have had no account of the family so my longing to get home again was very great. I was thankful to find all well.

11. Went into Town to see if I could borrow £100, for I am anxious to try a venture in the Thames gold field and purpose buying shares in two companies - The Freeman's Bay Company - and The Hope of All Nations.

14. Went into Town and succeeded in securing the hundred pounds, but I have to pay £12. 10. 0 per cent per annum for it. If, however, my "venture" at the gold mines should produce as I expect a return of cent per cent, I shall soon be able to pay off the principal, and if my speculation should prove a failure the loss of a hundred pounds will not, I trust, utterly ruin me.

15. I made preparations to start for the Thames goldfields tomorrow, having promised to take the Duty at St George's Church for Mr Brooke, who has gone up the Waikato. Shortly however before I left home Charlie was taken so alarmingly ill that I sent for the Doctor, who thought his life in such danger that he considered I was bound to remain at home. Wrote a short note to the Churchwardens of St George's Church explaining the cause of my absence, which I managed to forward by a neighbour going thither. So instead of a new and interesting trip across our noble harbour and up the estuary

[Image of page 149]

of the Thames to the Gold fields I had to remain at home helping Mamma to nurse poor dear Charlie, who I feared could not live till evening.

16. A very quiet undisturbed night. Charlie remained in a deep lethargy; the utter exhaustion of nature. He revived a little after breakfast. On coming out of Church, Martin came up to me with a note from Mamma urging me homeward again, for Charlie had had a frightful relapse and she wished to have me at home to help manage him: the Doctor has been twice to see him and considers him seriously ill.

17. Yesterday ended better than it commenced as regards poor Charlie and all last night he passed in one long, heavy sleep: so Mamma and I had a good rest. Blannie and Annette spent the afternoon visiting sundry friends: Blannie tells me that the Town is full of gold diggers coming up for a holiday from the Thames and they are driving about in carriages, &c., &c., &c.

19. Another fine day: we have had so few lately that we cannot but mark them when they come. Went to Town to pay the first deposit on 10 shares in the Freemans bay company. A vessel arrived this morning in the Manukau harbour, O-ne-hunga, with a large number of diggers from the West Coast, bound for the Thames diggings. On my way back to Parnell met one of Quick's large coaches drawn by six horses, carrying about 30 of these "roughs" - they had a flag flying and were singing, shouting, laughing and talking like a lot of overgrown schoolboys just leaving school for the holidays.

20. A Native brought us a splendid crab which we had for tea: though all partook of it - and there were 10 of us - there was more than we could consume: it cost 2/0. Charlie has slept the greater part of the day: poor boy - he is very sadly.

24. Felt lazy and Mondayish - don't often feel thus. During my absence Charlie has been pretty well. To the Bishop's private Chapel to Holy Communion, this being St Bartholomew's Day.

Immediately after Chapel we were all alarmed by a report brought up from Auckland that the Bishop and Mrs Selwyn had been shipwrecked, and I got one of the "Extras" issued

[Image of page 150]

by the Southern Cross office and learnt from that that on their way from Wellington to Nelson the Taranaki struck a rock whilst entering a channel leading to Picton and almost immediately became unmanageable. The Captain at once ordered the boats to be lowered and all the passengers were landed on the beach with as much baggage as could be got together; the paper said that "the Bishop of Litchfield with his son and Lord Burleigh were particularly noticeable in their endeavours to save the vessel.... the passengers, nearly 100 in number, were at first landed at the various beaches near the place where the vessel struck, some at a distance of as much as three miles off, but a large number eventually reached Mr Bowden's station where they were hospitably received.... Bishop Selwyn bringing down blankets and provisions to those on the beach."

Blannie, Anne, and I went into Town after dinner to see if we could learn anything more - we learnt far more than we expected - for we heard that the Bishop and Mrs Selwyn, their Son, and Lord Burleigh had arrived and were already in Parnell! They had driven over Onehunga (the steamer which had brought them from Nelson had gone in to the Manukau) and reached Parnell since Blannie and I reached home. On our way back I called at the Bishop's house and met the Archdeacon outside the door, just leaving: he said that the Bishop was sitting down to his dinner, so I turned to go away to call tomorrow when I met Mr Selwyn: he looks thinner than when last here but seems in excellent spirits.

In the evening Mrs Abraham, Mrs Ireland and Miss Maling spent the evening with us. Mrs Abraham told us that a fortnight ago old Mr Lusk had had a dream that the Bishop was shipwrecked on his way back! Mr Lusk mentioned this dream to several friends 10 or 11 days before we heard of the misadventure.

25. Blanche and I went to the Bishop's. His Lordship was not at home, but we saw Mrs Selwyn and she told us many particulars of their shipwreck. She is not looking well.

I sent Blannie and her little sisters up to pay their respects - they saw Mrs Selwyn and the Bishop. Both of them kissed all the three girls when they saw them and thought Annette and Edith much grown. Martin had been with the rest of

[Image of page 151]

the Grammar School boys to present an address to his Lordship and he asked - and obtained - two days' holiday for the lads.

26. Just as we were returning to our gardening Annette brought me a letter - it was from Mr Edward Wheeler informing me of his brother's death and that the funeral had been fixed for Wednesday at 3 o'clock, and requesting me to officiate. The letter had been written last Sunday and I had not more than 5 1/2 hours before me. However by dint of hurrying I reached Mauku, a distance of 30 miles, by 1/4 to 3 o'clock. The funeral had left the Wheelers' before I had reached the Church, but their having two miles to carry the coffin I had a little breathing time before commencing the Service. I returned from the Church to Mr Crispe's who had nothing to offer me but bread and butter and some cold whisky and water: Mrs Crispe was at the Wheelers' and all the men and women servants are gone to the gold diggings! So that Crispe, Orchard and all the rest of the Settlers are without domestics and workmen.

I reached the Urquharts': with them I spent a very pleasant evening but went to bed so tired that I think I shall demur at having to ride such long distances in such a hurry: by the time I get home I shall have ridden 60 miles.

29. Left home with a very sorrowful heart - poor Charlie being apparently, in a very critical way. When I got beyond Papatoitoi I branched off to the east and went up the Papakura valley and so to the upper part of Turanga Creek and called on the Tebbutts. Heard of a neighbour, a Mr Arthur, who had been crushed by a tree falling upon him - walked to his house and staid with him for a time: he thanked me much for my visit. Rode on to the Wairoa Road to Mr Golding's, where I stayed the night.

30. Being a fine day I had a good congregation. Set my homeward course, going by Turanga Creek - and so to Howick. Spent a pleasant hour and a half at Bleak House and rode the remainder of the way by brilliant moonlight. Found Charlie very ill indeed: so I was very thankful I had returned home instead of staying, as I was pressed to, at Bleak House.

[Image of page 152]

31. After dinner I went to Auckland and bought six shares in the Caledonian gold mining company: they cost me £8. 6. 8 per share, £50 in all.

4 September. Intended to have left home today but the weather was too boisterous. Charlie better.

5. Never left home with a heavier heart. Had a wet ride almost all the way to Drury. Staid there two hours - lighted my fire, dried my clothes and made myself a cup of tea and enjoyed the beef sandwiches Mamma had provided.

Left for Pukekohe West: in consequence of a bridge having been carried away by a fresh in the river, had to cross the river at a temporary bridge which added some 2 miles to my journey. The first house I passed at the entrance of the village I was stopped by a man coming out and asking me to go in and baptize a baby. So I sent my horse on to Mr Moore's by the man and went in. The mother lived some little way off in the forest and had come down to this cottage to wait for me, knowing that tomorrow was my Sunday in the village: she had been watching and waiting all the afternoon and was beginning to fear I was not coming: poor thing, she looked very ill, but so thankful and glad to see me and have the infant baptized: her husband is away at the gold mines. Then I walked to the Moores', where I had tea and slept.

6. My bedroom was rather too airy last night, the wind whistling through the crevices of the sides at times sufficiently strong to blow about my hair: how I wished for one of my old-fashioned night-caps! Went to the Schoolhouse: a fair muster of people - chiefly women - most of the men having gone off to the Thames. I had great difficulty in reaching Drury; there again, as also at Papakura, the congregation was chiefly women: the male population having been stricken with yellow fever and gone to the diggings.

7. Mr Mellsop is generally very late. Did not get breakfast till 10 o'clock. Leaving my horse in his paddock I walked to Papatoitoi and called on a Manx family of the name of Martin. Had not seen them for six years: gave me a very cordial welcome: waited for the up Coach which reached Newmarket by 4. Blanche was astonished to see me home again: my chief

[Image of page 153]

reason was to get some money I had promised to take to Hemi Manu and had left behind me - but another reason was to see how Charlie was getting on: I found him wonderfully better.

9. Left home with a very heavy heart: rode to Mauku. Stopped at the Inn, where I had tea and a bed.

10. Last evening baptized Mrs Pike's baby: had breakfast here and left without being charged anything for my board and lodging - my ministerial act last night being held I suppose as an equivalent.

22. Almost the first fine warm day we have had for the last six months! Took Charlie, Edward and the little girls to the Acclimatisation Society's gardens in the Domain. The flowers were very beautiful but the English birds were the attraction to the children. They saw a pair of starlings and a pair of blackbirds liberated: an immense number of birds - finches - sparrows -- linnets, &c., have been let loose and are building in the adjoining scrub - so we may hope some day to have some as visitors in our own garden - we not living far off.

There was a Kangaroo, also two emus and a golden pheasant and a tortoise - the last named is the first the children have ever seen; upon the whole they were delighted with their ramble.

23. Went to town: heard that there had been a crushing of quartz at the Caledonian claim - 20 tons of stone, from which they obtained 68 oz of gold: sufficient to pay a debt the company had incurred and to place some £100 to their credit, for the next few weeks' working the mine: I hope I may now escape any further "calls" upon my shares and soon, the sooner the better! have some return for my "venture".

25. Left home early. Rested at Drury and then rode on to Maungatawhiri and put up for the night at Captain Jackson's.

26. Spent all day in the Settlement - almost all the men have left for the diggings - some of them have sent sufficient money home to their wives to purchase cows - pigs - &c. So, though the village is not near so populous as it was it has a more thriving appearance. On returning to Captain Jackson's I was introduced to a Mr Moore - the son of a Wesleyan

[Image of page 154]

Minister in Ireland. Jackson's father was an Independent minister and his wife is the daughter of Mandeno, an Independent Minister at Remuera.

1 October. Got to the Crispes' about 10 o'clock - quite a grand spread - but we waited for the Bishop, who was expected every moment. The Confirmation was to take place at 3 - but it was half past 3 ere his Lordship hailed in sight. Long before we could distinguish his individuality in the dim distance, Mr Urquhart with a telescope made out the "hat" of the Bishop, so all the assembled crowd - and there was a large assembly of neighbouring settlers on the verandah - were on the qui vive to see and welcome his Lordship. His greeting when at last he got up to the house was warm and hearty and though pressed to have refreshments he decided to proceed forthwith to the Church, which was already full of people who I think must have been well nigh tired of waiting.

We had a hearty Service - an eloquent sermon - and some young women were confirmed - and then we adjourned to Mrs Crispe's for a late dinner-tea - much needed by many of us, certainly by me, for it was 8 when I breakfasted and it was now past five. The Bishop was very chatty and made himself very agreeable to all round: at about 4 o'clock the horses were saddled and the Bishop, Miss Urquhart, Mr A. Urquhart, and myself started for the Urquharts' place on the Karaka. We were accompanied for the first five miles by Mr Crispe, the two Miss Speedys, Miss Mellsop, and Mrs Robinson - nine equestrians. It was late when we reached the Urquharts', where there was another sumptuous repast waiting for us. So I made up for my long fast between morning and evening and went to bed with a feeling under my waistcoat which made me fear I should not have a very sound night's rest.

4. Services at Drury and Papakura. On my way home called at Mr Martin's at Papatoitoi for Miss Urquhart who had agreed to meet me there, to have the benefit of my escort to Parnell. We rode leisurely in, reaching the Grammar School about 9 o'clock. Martin then went on with Miss Urquhart to the Bishop's, where she is to be a guest during the sitting of General Synod.

13. Went to the Cathedral Library - we had however but

[Image of page 155]

a short sitting to enable the members [of Synod] to attend a Concert given by the Auckland Choral Society in their new music hall. The Concert was a great success - the Hall, capable of holding comfortably 600 people, was crammed to inconvenience - so I suppose some 800 people were present. There were selections from "The Creation", then came portions of "Saint Paul" taken with reference to the departure of our Bishop - the chorus "Happy and blest are they who have endured" - "How lovely are the Messengers" and the recitative "And Paul sent and called the Elders", &c., &c., seemed peculiarly applicable to the circumstances of him in whose honour the concert was given.

It was at the close of the concert that Mr Bruce, the head and the leading Presbyterian Minister, came forward and addressed the Bishop in a very interesting manner and then presented him with an address from the Choral Society - to which address the Bishop managed, notwithstanding the evident agitation under which he laboured, to give a very touching reply. Mamma and Blannie and Mrs Weekes accompanied me and we were in the hall soon after 7 but it was 1 o'clock before we got back home - so it was a very fatiguing evening's amusement.

20. A day of great excitement - the day of our Bishop's departure: Blanche and I went soon after breakfast and took our leave of him. Blannie and the little girls also managed to see him and wish him goodbye: Mrs Selwyn gave Blannie a photograph of the Bishop and asked her to come and stay with her at Lichfield if she ever came to England.

We had an early dinner and then, Blanche, Blannie, Martin and I went to St Paul's Church. The Service was to be at 3 - before 3 it was crammed. The hymn "Eternal Father, strong to save, whose arm hath bound the restless wave" which, sung lustily and with a good courage from the very heart of the immense congregation, had a most thrilling effect - especially the words "O hear us when we cry to Thee, For those in peril on the sea". Then amidst a profound silence our beloved Bishop stept forward and leaning over the Altar rails he said his "last words" to his people - words which sank deep into the hearts of all and made all present weep.

[Image of page 156]

Then suddenly changing to Maori he addressed the natives present, his concluding sentences being addressed especially to a very old Maori Chief, 83 with an elaborately tattooed face and a long white beard - a man they say, upwards of 100 years old and who could faintly remember the landing of Captain Cook! It was five o'clock before we came out of the Church, and here outside a large crowd had assembled for everybody seemed determined to say goodbye to the Bishop: all the shops were closed, the public offices - post office - customs - all shut up and everyone in the street - Shortland Crescent and Queen Street from the Church to the Wharf was crowded - so that as I hurried down with Blannie to get on board the Hero we had difficulty in threading our way among the throngs of people. The crowd along the wharf where lay the Hero was very dense - Flags were flying in all directions - all the ships along the wharf being "dressed", and strings of streamers being suspended here and there across the streets along the route the Bishop would take from the Church to the ship.

The Bishop got into an open van and with his wife, Sir William and Lady Martin, Mrs Nihill and Miss Urquhart, but the crowd was so great his progress was slow - a perfect ovation - all striving now to show their respect for their chief Pastor. Blannie and I had with difficulty got on board the Hero, the crowd there being very great - the cheering in the distance at last told us the Bishop was drawing near and when I caught sight of his carriage I noticed that it was being drawn along by an equal number of Maoris and Europeans! It seems that when they reached Queen Street, the people had stopped the horses and, noelens volens as regards the Primate, had dragged him the remainder of the way to the Hero.

Blannie and I managed to get one more shake of the hand and one more "God bless you" - then the Bell rang and to save being carried off down the harbour some two or three miles, we hurried off the vessel and returned with heavy hearts towards home. On the top of the hill near St Paul's Church we caught sight of the Hero; then off the Flagstaff hill she had checked her speed to allow a small steamer to come alongside to take off those who had disregarded the Bell and

[Image of page 157]

had remained on board to the very last minute - we saw her again when we reacht Parnell rise - she had then parted from the little steamer and was going fast to the North head - and again when we reacht home we saw her for the last time as she rounded the North shore: and then we felt that we had indeed lost our Bishop. So he will always be, par excellence, The Bishop of New Zealand, for the General Synod has determined that his successor shall be styled The Bishop of Auckland.

I forgot to mention when speaking of the Service in the Church that the very last person to whom the Bishop gave the Bread and Wine was the old Maori - so his last ministerial act was, so to say, to a native: the venerable old man with his white beard who wept like a child at parting with him.

21. A long account in today's paper of the Leave-taking. There are also notices of the shock of earthquake last Sunday, from all parts. It must have been very general.

24. Took Edith and Martin to Mrs Lewis's school for their dancing lesson. The Earthquake it appears was very severe at Taranaki, throwing down almost every chimney: but no lives were lost. We are anxious about Wellington: there the earthquakes are generally the most felt.

26. Took Charlie into town to look after the Box that Anne has sent us by the Siam: not yet landed: though the Siam has been in the harbour the last fortnight.

27. Mamma and Blannie busy preparing dresses for Sarah Ashwell's marriage with Mr Palmer, on Thursday next.

28. Mary and Fanny Haultain came to be in readiness for Sarah Ashwell's marriage tomorrow.

29. John Palmer and Sarah Ashwell married - or as Mr Burrows in one of the after-breakfast speeches said, the Church Missionary Society and the Melanesian Mission had effected a union. It was a bright, happy affair: there were 8 bridesmaids, of which Blannie was one. Bishop Patteson performed the ceremony: as the bridal party moved from the body of the Chapel (the Bishop's private Chapel) up to the Altar rails after the blessing, the cxxviii Psalm was chaunted. The bridal

[Image of page 158]

party adjourned to the "Study" to sign the register: when lo! Mr Heywood said he was sorry to have to mention such a fact at that moment but he had just discovered that the Bishop by his act, had subjected himself to a fine of £100 and that in the eyes of the law (New Zealand) the marriage was null and void!!

Here was a surprise for all: but Heywood was right. Our legislators have enacted that if any Minister should dare to solemnize any marriage, without first having his name registered by the Registrar-General and published in the N.Z. Gazette, such Minister shall pay a fine of £100 and such marriage should be ipso facto invalid. Every year our Bishop has supplied the Registrar-General with the list of Clergy of the English Church and the names thus sent, with those forwarded by the Romanists, Presbyterians, Wesleyans, &c., are annually published in the Gazette as the list of "Ministers" allowed to celebrate marriages according to Act (so and so). This year Heywood had discerned, when too late, that Bishop Patteson's name had been omitted!

After a short consultation Sir William Martin (our late Chief Justice) decided to have a portion of the Service repeated: the Chapel was cleared of all -- and the married pair with their bridesmaids and best-man re-entered and Archdeacon Lloyd read a short service, to enable him to sign the register - so the Bishop's name will not appear on their "marriage lines" and all their friends will consider that they were really married by the Bishop and not by Mr Lloyd.

The breakfast was a "brilliant affair" - 45 sat down and we had some good speeches and then about three o'clock Palmer and Sarah went off amidst a shower of slippers, and many, many hearty wishes for their happiness. Blannie and Mary and Fanny Haultain remained at the Bishop's, guests of Lady Martin.

30. Some time last night the young ladies came home but when I know not for we were in bed and asleep and they let themselves in. Fanny and Mary joined us at breakfast but dear Blannie I would not have disturbed, and it was noon before she made her appearance. Directly after dinner I started for the Wairoa Road, but in going through Papakura was induced (easily) to stay with Mr Mellsop.

[Image of page 159]

31. As usual had a horribly late breakfast - 10 o'clock and the whole morning utterly lost!

1 November. A very good congregation at the Wairoa Road Church - every sitting was, I think, occupied. Hitherto the offertory has been retained by the Churchwarden to pay for improvements, &c., about the Church. I told him that hence forward I should appropriate it to my own use: that I now had no help from the S. P. G. and the Home Missions Fund (hitherto I have had £100 a year from each Society: £200 in all) and that I was cast upon the tender mercies of the people (who, by the bye, last year gave me the ample sum of £40) and that therefore I intended to demand the offertories at all my churches. I did not tell him that perhaps I should leave the District to go to the Thames - but the prospect of being this year "Passing rich on Forty pounds a year" if I remain here is far from satisfactory.

2. At 12 o'clock when Martin came in we opened the box. The children were as happy as they could be: Edward did nothing for the rest of the day but exclaim "Oh how kind of them to send me such nice things." His picture-books - cards - and especially the pretty box of preserved fruits - made him supremely happy. After dinner we tasted dear Selina's wedding cake and duly drank the health of herself and her husband: at the same time taking a good look at his Photograph which we found with the wedding cards.

3. Busy this morning repacking Anne's case to send back per Siam with some articles from the Melanesian Islands. Blannie was in Auckland this afternoon and was amused at seeing the fine old chief, Paul of Orakei, come out of the Supreme Court house, nicely dressed in European clothes, but over all with a common blanket wrapped round him: a carriage and pair was waiting for him and he got in with all the dignity of a prince and, wrapping his blanket round him as an ancient Roman would have wrapped his toga, bade the Coachman "Drive on". He is a wealthy man and considered more civilised than most of the Maories.

5. All last night Charlie was exceedingly ill: he has been unusually well of late, and, as we have too often seen, the

[Image of page 160]

consequence seems to be an unusually severe attack. A few bonfires in some of our neighbours' fields reminded us of the Gunpowder plot.

6. Left Parnell on Florence - reached the Urquharts' after an exceeding hot ride. Had dinner and nearly an hour's sleep, then rode on to Waiuku: here a report was rife that I had actually gone to the Thames, in consequence of which the Kings did not expect me.

7. Rode into the village in the afternoon, more for the sake of showing myself - of proving that I had not gone to the Thames.

10. Reached home by 12 o'clock - Charlie I found somewhat better. In the evening Blanche and I went to the Bishop's house whither Sir William and Lady Martin had invited us to meet Bishop Patteson and others. We spent a very pleasant evening.

11. A special service in the Bishop's private Chapel to bid Bishop Patteson farewell: he goes this afternoon to Norfolk Island, and there was a large muster of his friends: the Chapel was crowded.

Mr Blackburn called and had tea with us: he was at Thames with Bishop Patteson last Sunday and they met the Church committee on Monday to consider a resident Minister. Blackburn said they were going to write to me, offering the charge to me: promising to pay me £250 a year as salary and £50 a year for house rent, till they built quarters for me.

13. Went to Town with Charlie: Mamma had preceded me in one of the cars. She met us with a long face - and well she might, for she had just heard that last Monday, a few (some 25) of the Hauhaus had made an attack on Turanga: had taken the place by surprise and had killed about thirty of the settlers - men, women and children. 84 The Town I soon found was in a state of great excitement; this outbreak is on the East coast - the late fighting has been on the West coast at Patea, where the English have had lately two severe reverses, defeats in fact. These defeats at Patea in the west and

[Image of page 161]

this last successful raid in the east may have the lamentable effect of causing a general uprising of the natives: this fearful state of things has been brought on, beyond a doubt, by grasping after the Maori land - by sinful covetousness.

While I was thinking over these sad tidings I met Mr Hill, Sen., who added somewhat to my trouble by the information that the shares in the Freeman's Bay Company, for which I a short time ago paid £5 per share, are now selling for fifty shillings: and it is difficult to get buyers even at that low rate. Soon after I heard this Mr Hill, Jun., met me and told me that the Caledonian has struck a very rich leader: this was a pleasant set off to the former news: but the evil is greater than the good.

21. Nothing but sad reports from the East and West coasts: the natives seem at last to have arranged a systematic plan of attacking the pakeha. Wanganui, south of Taranaki, is threatened - all the country for miles around it is destroyed and in the hands of the hostile natives. Altogether this seems the most serious uprising of the Natives we have yet had.

24. Went into Auckland to order some school material for St George's Church, Shortland. Charlie went with me.

25. Busy most of the day in collecting all I may want for my Sojourn at Shortland. I do not intend to return home till after the first Sunday in January, so I shall be away about 6 weeks.

* * *

On 14 November 1868, according to Auckland's Southern Cross, a meeting was held at the Thames Courthouse, Shortland, "for the purpose of taking steps" to establish a resident Church of England clergyman in the district. Bishop Selwyn had recommended Mr Lush as the "most eligible gentleman" for the vacancy, and after some discussion on the salary to be offered (this to be not less than £250 a year), and a handsome tribute from Dr Henry Weekes who was of the opinion that they "could not get a better Minister than Mr Lush though they had dozens to choose from", Vicesimus Lush was declared duly chosen.

The cure of the Thames goldfield was an important one. There he was to see the twin settlements of Shortland and

[Image of page 162]

Grahamstown grow together from clusters of shanties and primitive public-houses, of poppet-heads and romantically-named mines and batteries, through the gold bananza of the 1870s to undreamt-of prosperity.

The Vicar and his "three curates" - his wife and daughters Blanche and Anne - reacted well to the bustle and excitement. Mr Lush, conditioned by the four years he had spent riding through the wild Inner Waikato, had acquired a wider experience of human nature and rough daily living that he found helpful in the unfamiliar atmosphere of Thames. Anne taught at the Kaueranga girls' school and St George's Sunday-school; she sang in the church choir, had drawing lessons and painting lessons, sewed garments for the poor, and cooked for school treats. Her elder sister, whose gifts and interests centred on music, did her share of parish visiting, while gentle, hospitable Mrs Lush was an admirable hostess for the Parsonage who enjoyed chaperoning her daughters to balls and parties and coped cheerfully with the difficulties of colonial life.

It was thirteen years before Mr Lush returned to the Waikato. On 28 November 1881 he recorded his "great astonishment" at receiving a letter from Bishop Cowie offering him the post of Archdeacon of the Waikato Diocese, stationed at Hamilton: 85 "I consider you specially qualified for the office - by your long experience of New Zealand Church-work, and by the faithful and efficient manner in which you have ministered in the several pastoral charges hitherto held by you..., by the high esteem in which you are held by our brother clergy and by the readiness you have always shown to assist me personally in my many responsibilities. "

Vicesimus wrote in his Journal: "What could I do but acquiesce?"