1966 - Best, A. D. W. The Journal of Ensign Best, 1837-1843 (Ed. N. M. Taylor) - NEW ZEALAND, p 215-400

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NEW ZEALAND

It having been determined 1 that the New Zealanders were to be blessed with all the accompanyments of British Govt on the 4th of April a Detachment of the 80th Regt consisting of one Major one Capt. one Lieut one Ensign 2 three Sergeants and 80 Rank & File embarked in the "Buffalo" Store Ship in order to do duty there that is in New Zealand untill further

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orders and in justice to all the Military authorities and departments in Sydney I must add that we were supplied with almost the usual allowance of Field equipments viz Tents, cooking Kettles and axes and also refused all allowances usual in such cases I suppose in conformity with the retrenchment system. On the 6th we sailed and after a tolerable passage of 10 days we anchored in the Bay of Islands off the Settlement of Kororarireka. As far as our comforts were concerned the passage was far from an enviable one. In the first place we were stowed away between decks in a cabin temporarily fitted up with our berth places on either side and these not sufficient in number to contain us and moreover infested with bugs the consequence was that three of the party including the Officer of Commissariat 3 who accompanied us slept in hammocks in the Cabin itself. Again the character of the Commander Mr Wood a Master in the Navy was too well known to us to allow of our accepting his liberal offer to mess us for the voyage at the rate of 10£ per head so we had to mess ourselves which is no slight inconvenience to a Landsman but this we put up with knowing that it could not last for ever in fact we would rather have lived on biscuit than consorted with so great a beast. 4 Our only passenger was Mrs Hobson with her Governess and family of four children but of them we saw little except of an afternoon on the Poop. We first sighted New Zealand at the three Kings and then ran the coast down untill we entered (April 16th) that most beautiful bay "the Bay of Islands". The breeze was very light so that we had full time to enjoy the different views as they opened to us and I must say I was never more enchanted by any scenery, but everybody has seen the Panorama in Leicester Square 5 so that discription is needless.

(Marginal note--Kororarireka is a wretched place of about 50 houses most of which are grog shops. There are one or two good Stores and it boasts a very respectable club who gave us a great feed and made us

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"honorary Members" The Members are mostly speculators in Land from England, N. S. W. and V. D. L.)

Two days we lay at anchor off Kororarireka and the third moved up the bay to Okiato where the settlement of Russel is to be formed and on the following our disembarkation commenced. The weather was very bad and our worthy Commander of the Buffalo did his utmost to inconvenience & impede us by sending stores and Baggage on shore before places could be prepared to shelter them.

1st Scene--The Affair of Kororarireka

Monday 24th April 6

On the second day of our disembarkation we had been employed since breakfast hauling stores up a steep hill and were just thinking of going on board to sleep for the last time when a whale boat was seen pulling towards us at the top of her speed she was soon beached and her steersman jumping out informed us that the natives had come down on Kororarireka and were murdering all the white inhabitants. The Bugler was on shore he sounded the assembly and while this was doing I jumped into the boat and went on board the Buffalo where I found our working party of twelve men all ready for more serious work. The boat which brought us the news of this outbreak among the natives had spread the alarm through the whole line of Shipping all of whom sent boats to bring us down. Into the first of these I got with six men & shoved off waiting Major Bunburys orders and as soon as I got his permission away I went closely followed by Mr Woods Gig. In a few seconds the two cutters and the Pinnace or Launch were filled with men the latter towed by several Whale boats the total number of boats employed being seventeen. The race between the Gig & our boat lasted untill we reached our destination and as the other fifteen were also doing their best the scene was most inspiriting we could hear occasional shots everyone of which was hailed with a cheer and a hurrah! lads give way. On reaching the beach at Kororarireka we formed in three divisions but the Mauries (Natives) were not to be seen. Being the first on shore I ventured to ask a very pale looking Gentleman what was going on; his answer was as far as I could make out for his teeth chattered so that he was almost unintelligible O! they'll kill us all. My next question where are they? Answer I d--d--d--don't know. Question have they killed anybody? Answer O n--n--n--no but they have fired a g--g--g-- great many shots! By the time that this colloquy was over the men were all landed and we moved up in the direction of the court house which building was also the church and a most curious body we were, some of the men in their servants dresses with their cross belts and firelocks; and all

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covered with mud from the casks they had been rolling: some of the Officers in blue, some in red shells, 7 others in pea jackets while our gallant Commissary was in full tog armed with a ships cutlass a Brace of huge ships pistols a firelock with fixed Bayonet and the Bugle so much did his appearance tickle the fancy of one gentleman that he ventured to remark to me that our Capt must be a very brave man. On arriving in front of the Court house we found the cause of the disturbance to be as follows. A Mauri had been apprehended for the murder of a white man and the authorities determined that he should be tried by English Law. Some of the Mauries who were opposed to the Govt conceiving this to be a good opportunity of getting up a row assembled to the number of 250 or three hundred men well armed and led by their chiefs surrounded the court house where the prisoner was at that time undergoing his examination demanding that he should be delivered up to them threatening in the event of a refusal to take him by force and murder all the Whites. Whilst making these demands they repeatedly fired their pieces and these were the shots we had heard. They had also with them a Mauri woman who was the principal evidence against the prisoner. I need not say that the magistrates on the bench were not disposed to acceed to this requisition (especially as it was known the Mauries would murder & it was said intended eating the man who was of an hostile tribe) and assembling as many armed men as possible prepared to resist untill a boat which was dispatched should bring the Troops. I have heard it hinted that at the time the Mauries first appeared the Court house was full of Whites but that the moment danger approached they disappeared most rapidly escaping by both windows the door being well kept so that at last not above twenty including four Mounted policemen remained firm. (Marginal Note--Error. Only one Mounted Police Sergeant and three civilians stuck to the Magistrates.) A few movements on our part soon hemmed the Mauries in & in these we were assisted by the Kororarireka Volunteers who nobly performed the duty of light troops. A Kororo 8 took place in which the Mauries were found very tractable for they had sense enough to see that resistance was useless & came to the following terms. That they should give up the woman Leave the man to be dealt with according to British law, and return quietly home. (Marginal Note--The woman was returned on the Chiefs agreeing to produce her on the ensuing Court day & [they] were invited to attend both of which they did & after the trial expressed themselves satisfied with British law & mode of procedure in such cases but added that they had not been before.) We then moved back along the beach to our landing place & returned to the Buffalo as fast as we could find boats to convey us but we found to my cost that conveyance was not so rife when we were not required for I was kept dancing about in a drizzling

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rain for two hours & was finally obliged to pull an oar myself I reached the Buffalo at nine oclock. So much for the Affair of Kororarireka. 9

In the course of the week we were all cleared out from the Buffalo and during the time we had been working we experienced so much incivillity if not actual rudeness from Mr Wood & his officers that we were all right glad to call our camp our home & to see the Buffalo heaving up her Anchor. Mr Wood is one of those curses of the service who has early imbibed an antipathy to the Red Coats and imagines that he can in no way show his Naval spirit to such advantage as by subjecting them to every inconvenience & rudeness possible, at the time when it is his duty to act in concert with them and to study their comforts & convenience. I fear that he is fast instilling the same grovelling ideas into his junior Officers.

(Marginal Note---The Govt Establishment at Okiato consists of a capital house intended for the Governor, a large three story Store, a barrack for the Mechanics (70 in number) a workshop and Forge 2 small houses for Govt Officers and a number of less important buildings, sheds &c &c. There is also a small pier and wharf in front of the Store. 10)

(Note from margin of Kororareka Affair--When first we encamped at Okiato we were much annoyed by a rascal who kept a grog shop on the little beach. The Governor sent a Constable to remove him or rather to warn him off Govt ground and when he would not go we sent a Corpl & File of men and pulled the place down. He then sent two Mauries who were living with him to tell Pomeray 11 to come & fight for him so he was told that if a war canoe came that we would hang him on the tree he was then under. This effectually frightened him & he departed.)

At the time we first arrived in the Bay of Islands the health of Capt Hobson was in a very bad state owing to the attack (I believe of Paralysis) from which he had suffered some weeks before we arrived but from the time that Mrs Hobson and his family joined him he rapidly recovered and was soon able to resume the greater part of his official duties. As soon as his health was sufficiently reestablished he invited Pomaray and several of the principal Chiefs residing about the Bay to

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a Kororo. 12 The number assembled on this occasion was but small & I should not have mentioned it had it not been the first scene of the kind I ever witnessed. Capt Hobson sat in the centre the interpreter opposite and a Native chief on either side Pomaray being on his right; three other chiefs a Mr Clendon 13 Major Bunbury, Capt Lockhart and myself made up the party. The conversation was principally concerning the treaty between the Native chiefs of New Zealand and our Lady Queen which Pomaray expressed himself satisfied with and promissed to bring Tererau, 14 Kowetti, 15 and all the principal Chiefs for many miles round on a future day to sign it. His delivery was exceedingly good and he argued the different clauses in the treaty as they were read over and explained to him with great astuteness. In speaking of Mr Clendon after that gentleman in reply to Pomaray's regrets at his intended departure had said that he had no doubt that the Mauries would find as kind & a more powerful friend in Capt Hobson Pomaray was peculiarly happy. It is easy said he to say I am your friend. Capt Hobson does not know how good a friend Mr Clendon has been to us I do not expect him to be such a one but I give him three years then I shall see if he is a friend. Pomaray is rich now perhaps he may be poor perhaps not, but I shall by that time see if when the Poor Mauri goes to his door naked he is given a blanket and to eat should he be hungry or if he is driven away. It is easy to say I will be a friend, I give Capt Hobson three years to prove his words. I need not say that after such a scene I went away with a much higher idea of Mauri talent than I had had before. I forgot to add that all the Chiefs sat on chairs and that the most finished gentleman could not have behaved with greater propriety. They were all dressed in their native costume and were all exceedingly fine men.

On the 3rd of May 16 Major Bunbury left us in order to proceed in the Herald HM. S, Capt Nias to the Thames & afterwards to all the principal ports in the Middle and Southern Islands for the purpose of negotiating the Sovereignty from the Native Chiefs. Shortly after his departure Capt Hobson changed his residence from Paihia to Okiato

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and took up his abode at the late residence of Mr Clendon a few hundred yards from our Camp. 17

The Weather during the time that I remained at the Bay of Islands was tolerably fine and I made one or two excursions into the country. I went up the Kowa Kowa 18 in the boat as far as possible a distance of about twelve miles duck shooting our sport was very indifferent and I nearly lost my life by getting fast in the Mud flat (in which the navigable part of the river terminates) when the tide was rising over them. It would be easy to get much further up in a Canoe. I went up the Wytangie 19 some five or six miles as far as the falls and I then went in a canoe a mile or two further I believe that it is navigable for canoes many miles above the falls. I also walked across from our Camp to Paroa Bay where a Mr McDonough 20 late of the 7th has established himself; he is by far the most gentlemanly man that I have met with in New Zealand. The country around the Bay is for the most part very hilly and the land poor but from the magnificent harbours and anchorage with which it abounds and the extent of water carriage it must eventually be a place of great value to the government.

2nd Scene--Signature of Treaty by Chiefs 21

On the ... of ... Pomaray brought the Chiefs to sign the treaty. 22 He was accompanied by Tererau, Kowetti and the Son & brother of the former. Capt Hobson had not at that time changed his residence & was recd on landing from his boat by a Guard of Honor which I commanded Cookson being unwell. When the Chiefs began to sign Kowetti was exceedingly violent and intractible he said that he should not sign away his land and thought that the Governor might as well wait for said he we are all dying and the Mauri will soon cease to exist when I was young all our houses were full now they are empty let the Pachia wait a short time and then the land will be theirs for we shall have passed away. When asked by Capt Hobson if he had not tried to raise the Northern tribes against the Queen and his reason for doing so he answered Yes, for that at the distribution of presents at the Treaty of Wytangie he had not been given any Tobacco. It was this old warrior who instigated the bussiness at Kororarireka and had his plans not been discovered and frustrated there is no

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saying what might have resulted from so little a thing as the malappropriation of a few figs of Tobacco. Eventually he signed the treaty. On my admiring his tomahawk which was beautifully polished and had a bone handle which looked very like the bone of a mans leg he told me that he would give it me for my sword for he could kill men better with that. Tererau was a very fine young man and his brother exceedingly handsome they both signed the treaty willingly and expressed themselves pleased that the Queen had sent them a governor. Some presents were distributed and then the Chiefs departed.

One of my favorite amusements was fishing I could always take my rod and bring home a good dish of fish, the Kawai 23 gave me the best sport they are a species of Salmon and take a bait very freely and moreover they are so active that your tackle must be right good to hold them. The Bay abounds with fish and besides those above mentioned I saw the Gurnard, Mullet, a kind of Perch, a fish resembling White Bait, Eels, Snapper and a species of Sole. I have also caught a small Shark or Dogfish. My Gun comparatively speaking brought me little game and the birds are few. I occasionally got a wild Duck but never had a real good days sport with them for although they are plentiful they are very wild. The Pigeon or Wood Quest (Kukupa) 24 is a very beautiful bird and capital eating but shooting them is very poor sport they sit up in the trees to be fired at most stoically and shoot them as they sit you must, for the woods are so dense that you never get a chance when they are on the wing. The Tui 25 is a curious greenish blackbird with a little ruff of feathers under his chin like a clergymans bands I did not consider them worth shooting. I was however so lucky as to get from a native a specimen of the Kivi-Kivi 26 a bird almost unknown to Ornithologists. This extraordinary Biped (I describe my specimen a young hen) is about the size of a three months old Turkey; its feathers resemble those of the Emu and are of an uniform dull brown color; its legs black and very strong its feet large with three toes, the thighs very thick and sinuey, its wings not larger than those of a three weeks old sparrow and without pinions, the head small & eyes small & black, the beak as long as that of a Woodcock. I was told that it is a night bird. N. B. the bay abounds with cockles, muscles and oysters the latter exceedingly good. My dogs also caught me two fine wild Pigs. Our Camp gradually improved; the Natives built us a small hut which we made a mess house and I dug and made a door for a cellar under our mess table. On the Evening of the 22nd of May 27 while we were sitting over our wine

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a not[e] came from Capt Hobson intimating to Capt Lockhart that his presence was required immediately a[t] Govt House. On his return he informed us that the Settlers at Port Nicholson had declared themselves a free and independant state under the protection of the Sovereign Chiefs of New Zealand that they had made themselves Magistrates raised a council & Militia and committed a thousand other extravagances all which had determined Capt Hobson to send a party of the 80th to enforce the law which Mr Shortland the Colonial Secretary was to be sent to administer and that to make things complete that a Party of Mounted Police were also to go under Mr Smart 28th Regt. Our worthy Capt having decided that I was to take charge of the Detacht I made my preparations and on Sunday the [24th] sent on board the Integrity Barque which was taken up by the Govt two months provisions. On Monday we had a grand review & fired a feu de joie in honor of Her Majestys birthday a number of Natives were present and were much astonished and amused at our manoevres. I was on the ground as an amateur and never saw companys drill worse done Capt Lockhart did not attempt anything else. In the Afternoon the men embarked & I went on board with Shortland and Smart in the evening.

On the 26th we sailed clearing the Heads at 8 oclock and on the 2nd of June dropped anchor in Port Nicholson the weather during our voyage except for about twelve hours was fine but those twelve it blew great guns right in our Teeth and we lay to under our main Trysail. The very night we entered Port Nicholson before we had come to an anchor it came on to blow from the south west and increased to a heavy gale right glad were we that the Integrity was fast by the nose. As we expected to have warm work with the worthy settlers of Port Nicholson the Loyal Subjects who were (in the event of any effort being made by her Majestys Govt to establish her authority) to resist to the Knife and appeal to the Powers of Europe I took precautions to prevent the smallness of our Detacht from being discovered. We had not been long at Anchor when a boat came alongside and on being challenged by the sentry asked what was the matter? what ship it was? and whether we were in need of assistance. None of these questions were answered but the boat was told to come alongside which it did after some delay. Our visitors who turned out to be two Captains of coasting craft came on board when invited with considerable reluctance and were shown below. When told that the vessel was the Integrity they asked for the Capt he came and sitting down one of them commenced relating how he had Kidnapped one of the Chiefs of the Port (Warrepore) 28 and had given him into the hands of a tribe with whom he was at feud (the Ngate Kahununu). 29 It was evident that neither he or his friend

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could make out what we were & we took good care not to let them know after they had been on board about an hour endeavouring to pump us they departed.

On the morrow great was the consternation of the settlers dignitaries & council of Port Nicholson a report had gone abroad that the Integrity had arrived full of Troops and that there were authorities on board prepared to bind and take to the Bay of Islands on a charge of High Treason at least two thirds of the whole white population. The Harbour Master first came alongside, as soon as he reached the Deck his boat was ordered astern and he was informed by Mr Shortland that He was no longer Harbour Master but Plain Mr Chaffers a Master R. N. & late commander of the Companys ship Tory. Mr Cole the chief Constable was dispatched with the mounted police to Britania 30 to post the Proclamations and hoist the Jack 31 and also to give notice that the Queen would be proclaimed on the next day at noon. During the day we had many visitors who were all loud in their protestations of Loyalty at one time we had four boats all astern some of our visitors went away declaring on their reaching the beach that it was all humbug that there was not a soldier in the ship while others swore that she was full. The Weather the whole day was very bad blowing and raining incessantly.

Thursday 4th Before breakfast Smart and myself went on Shore to look about us and to hoist the Jack at Thorndon when we returned we found Mr Shortland in close confab with a certain Dr Evans 32 one of the Members of council and a leading person in the whole concern. The poor man was dreadfully down in the mouth when informed that the Council no longer existed but at the same time was loyal to the backbone denying the truth of everything that Mr Sinclair 33 had said at the Bay of Islands and also declaring that the New Zealand Gazette 34

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did not express the sentiments of a single individual in the place. Altogether he was as pretty a specimen of a piece of humbug as you could meet in a days march. At Twelve we landed with the Mounted Police and in presence of a large number of the Settlers who had assembled some from the other side of the Bay Mr Shortland read the necessary Papers and the Proclamation declaring the Sovereignty of the Queen in New Zealand. At the words God save the Queen the multitude commenced cheering most violently English Radicals & Chartists, Canadian Rebels, Dogsmeat Field Officers 35 vying with each other in testifying their loyalty by the loudness of their screeching. The Troops on board fired a feu de joie and some one of the various inhabitants of Port Nicholson fired a Royal Salute from a little brass Ships Gun. I think it right to mention that my men were all ready to land at a given signal had the people shewn any disposition to resist the Queens authority and that the blank Cartridge was only a substitute. 36 We went up to the house of Dr Evans and had some Luncheon and in our way back to the ship were met by a large body of Mauries headed by the principal Chiefs of the Place who first sang the Iremi 37 and then danced their war dance after which the Chiefs shook hands & welcomed the Governor for so they styled Mr Shortland. All the remainder of the evening it rained cats & dogs and blew great guns.

5th Stormy went on shore for a hour or so and chose a place for an encampment. The next day commenced our disembarkation early and pitched all the tents in rear of two native built houses which we were in treaty for I remained on shore untill dark. We had another dreadful night but fortunately the next day was fair and we got everything out of the Integrity and slept in our tents on shore.

Not being able to make any agreement with the natives who owned the houses we determined to look out for others, Mr Shortland wanting one for his house, Police Office &c &c and one being required for a Barrack the Medical Man who I had engaged to attend the Troops having certified that it was improper for the men to remain in tents. We soon found three houses in an unfinished state which would exactly

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suit our purpose. 38 Two were built of Wattle and dab and the other of Toe Toe, these we purchased on an agreement that they were to be fenced in and to be paid for when finished which was done within a fortnight.

During the time that we were at our first Camp Mr Shortland and Mr Smart were constantly employed with their Police duties various were the Cases tried Wade v Pearson, Pearson v Everybody and others of less note. 39 The weather continued very bad; incessant storms of wind and rain blowing down the tents and drenching us through everything. We found one day however fine enough to go to Britania the Settlement at the other end of the Bay. It is a straggling place extending over about two miles of beach and as far up the River Hutt but the houses are only temporary and the people are gradually abandoning it for Thorndon. All at the back of the sea beach is an immense swamp and the houses on the river are constantly inundated. We had some lunch with the New Zealand Lands Company's principal agent Colonel Wakefield 40 of the Spanish Legion: he is a gentlemanly man but never seems at his ease with us wherefore I cannot tell.

Taking advantage of a fine day we moved from our Camp to the Place we at present occupy carrying bag and baggage along with us. I shall describe Govt House. Govt House is a Mauri built dwelling of Wattle and dab and Wattle and dab is this. A number of stakes are driven into the ground and a species of bine worked in between them so as to form a wall of basketwork exactly like a Gabion. This big basket is then pelted with soft clay untill all the interstices are completely filled up both inside and out and then the ragged bits are carefully smothed off when dry it makes a tolerably good wall. To return to our house it is about thirty six feet long and fifteen wide and is divided into three rooms only one of which is at present finished and serves for Drawing dining and bed room as well as for the Court house to hold petty sessions in. For some time I lived in my Tent but the weather got worse and worse my poles were screwed round & round and one night I bolted out just in time to save its coming down about my ears and since that time I too have slept in the room.

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(Marginal Note--On the 20th of June the Herald arrived with Major Bunbury She anchored outside 41 and the Major came ashore in a boat. I had very little conversation with him his head being full of his "Diplomatic Mission". He remained on shore about two hours. 42 Mr Shortland went on board the Herald and had some communication with Capt Nias who as usual behaved like a bear. 21st The Herald came into the harbour but did not anchor to the great disgust of the Colonists. She sailed again in the afternoon. Capt Nias will not go to Mana, where Te Reroprira 43 is making a disturbance he appears to be playing his old game of annoyance.)

Shortly after we had effected our change of residence a singular scene occurred with the Natives which might have lead to very serious consequences. On the Morning of June 25th Thursday one of the Chiefs Wyderop 44 by name came to Mr Shortland to say that one of the Mauri women had left her husband and gone with another man who wished to pay a price and keep the Woman for his wife but that the husband was not content to part with his Lady upon any terms. Davis the Missionary 45 was sent for to interpret and all the parties appeared with the exception of the Fair Helen who was kept away by Wyderop who favoured the lover. Mr Shortland insisted that she should be produced which after some demurring Wyderop did. The case opened by the husband declaring that the woman was his wife and that she had eloped with the other man and demanded that she should be restored to him. The other man stated that he had no wife whilst his opponent had three that the women loved him and hated her husband and that he was willing to pay for her two blankets a musquet and a Tomahawk. The woman on being questioned threw her arms round her lovers neck and swore that she would never leave him. Here was a pretty dilemma! The Chiefs ran up and down and Kooroorooed. The husband and lover fingered their Tomahawks and the fair one hid herself in her blanket at last it was determined that the Payment should be taken and that all parties should go away to their respective Pahs without fighting. Scarcely had they got 50 yards when one party got the woman by the head & shoulders and the other by the legs and feet and a regular pull for her took place Neither party gaining ground the woman was

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dropped and Tomahawks drawn. Away went the woman like a hare and her husband after her with his Tomahawk then the lover & next the mans brother. I turned out the guard and ran out just in time to see the woman fall the husband made a blow at her but just then my servant McCarthy upset him and then another who wished to split his head & I whipped the Tomahawk from a third. The Koorooroo commenced afresh one lady Mrs Wyderop averse to us wished to have the woman killed and commenced throwing dirt which so exasperated an ally of ours Mrs Muturoea 46 that she stripped to the buff and commenced a most furious harrangue running up and down slapping her ----- and jumping round at the end of her beat like a maniac. Again it was agreed that payment should be taken when lo! it was discovered that the Lover and Lady had levanted in the confusion which ensued after the fight. This rendered the matter easier and the husband reced. for the lady who was frightfully ugly a payment of Two Musquets Two Blankets and one Tomahawk. I was told by good authority that but for our mediation the man would have murdered his wife and that a war would have been inevitable.--. The same morning a Native chief gave evidence in due form before the bench that "he had been assaulted by three white men and that part of his fence had been pulled down". The case was proved and his assailants fined three pounds each. 47 Again a Mauri girl was convicted of stealing a loaf & bit of Soap. The chief of her Pah wished to kill her for said he a Thief is no good. He was told to tie her up in his Wharrey 48 for 24 hours which at last he consented to do but thought it would be better to tie her up longer. On another occasion a Mauri boy was convicted for stealing two axe heads he was sentenced to 12 hours in the Stocks 49 and so delighted were the Mauries when they saw him in that they came in a body to Mr Shortland to beg that he might not be let out for a week. Who will deny after these instances that the Mauris are easily governed by our law & that it is only necessary to make them understand it in order to ensure their ready obedience to any properly constituted authority.

Taking advantage of every fine day we made various little excursions round & about. Mr Shortland & myself went to Britania and stayed a couple of days with Colonel Wakefield. We did not reach Britania untill late on monday evening and on Tuesday walked up to some high land on the Eastern side of the harbour at the mouth of the Hutt. From the summit of the Hills the view was most beautiful the background to the Southward

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being the Lookers on 50 crowned with ice and snow while to the Northward the Range called [Tararua] bounded our view; to the eastward lay an unexplored valley 51 of singular form and on the westward the bay extended some seven miles as far as Thorndon bounded by high Woody hills. On our return I left the party & went up the river to the house of Dr Fitzgerald to arrange a days duckshooting with him I could not find his house for some time & got back to Coll Wakefields just in time to wash for dinner.

The next morning I was up before sunrise & walked up to Fitzgeralds house to breakfast. Taking some food along with us we dropped down the river in a Canoe to its mouth and entered the Wy watu supposed by some to be the eastern branch of the Hutt and by others to be a distinct river. 52 Up it we proceeded some miles without meeting a single duck the river was full of snags and stumps and over these as well as over the shallows we were repeatedly obliged to drag the Canoe. Having gone up the stream as far as we could unless we intended being out all night we put about and in returning got one duck. The banks of the Wy-watu are covered with magnificent timber and the stream is rapid. We had reason to think that we had been further up the river than any white man had as yet been. I slept at Fitzgeralds and the next day returned to Thorndon.

Shortland, Smart & myself went in the boat round the greater part of the bay. All the land on the Eastern side is exceedingly steep and hilly down to the beach, from the Heads to the mouth of the river near which there is one small Valley. 53 On the Western side are some fine valleys the principal of which are Ki-warra-warra 54 and one known as Wharrepores valley 55 and the Hills in general have a more promissing appearance. I was up the Valley of Ki Warra Warra some two or three miles on various occasions it has some fine timber and the stream is sufficiently strong to work a watermill the land excellent. To the Southeast a narrow bay called Evan's Bay runs into the land about two miles no doubt it has at some previous time communicated with the Straits at its head as Lyells Bay 56 runs in to meet it and they are only divided by a range of low sandy Hills not half a mile wide while the land on either side is very high and pre-

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July

cipitous: in the Neighbourhood of the head of the bay are two Lagoons 57 one upwards of a mile across the other much smaller they are much resorted to by Wild Ducks. In my excursions into the Country I found Teal, common Wild Duck, the Paradise Duck, a variety of the Grebe, a kind of Water Hen the proper name of which I do not know; the Wood Quest, a variety of sea birds & waders and some smaller land birds all which I intend to describe as opportunity offers. I have heard of others which I have not yet seen. Port Nicholson abounds with fish the principal are the Kawa Kawa, 58 Snapper, Harbouker, 59 Barracouta, a large red fish name unknown and some smaller kinds no doubt on further acquaintance I shall find many more I have not seen any oysters but there [are] plenty of Cockles, Muscles and the fish which inhabit Venus's Ear. 60 In the summer the Natives get Craw Fish. Whales occasionally come in & Porpoises in great numbers.

July 28th The Chief Wharrepore who had been on a visit to the Natta-kahoons returned two or three days since accompanied by some of the Chiefs of that Tribe & today paid a visit to the Chiefs at this end of the Bay. He was recd by a large number of Mauris who sang the Iremi. Of course there was a grand Koorooroo. Knowing him to be a turbulent fellow who had been persuaded by the Company that he was a great king to answer their own ends and purposes I went down to see what they were doing. When Wharrepore saw me he wished me to walk across to where he was sitting holding out his hand which as I had seen him two days before at Britania where he refused to see me rolling himself up in his blanket I did not think proper to do & motioned him to come to me which offended his highness as I shall afterwards show. After they had talked and eaten as much as they wished Wharrepore came up to see Mr Shortland I was in the room when he entered, he spoke to Mr Shortland and gave him a very handsome mat but took no notice of me. At this time he was more than half drunk. During the time he was in the Pah I had seen him amusing himself by presenting a loaded pistol at all those on whom he thought he could venture such a joke if joke it could be called. After he had staid in our room as long as he thought proper he went down to the Pah and drank Wypiero 61 (Spirits) untill he was beastly drunk.

29th All "The Chiefs" and their followers were entertained by Muturoea

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at a Dejune. Incredible quantities of flour Gruel nothing more in fact than common paste and potatoes were prepared and Mr Shortland added some salt pork and tea and sugar. The process of eating commenced about nine o'clock and after everything was consumed some pipes and tobacco were distributed. Every Pah had its allotted number of pots of paste and tea and baskets of potatoes round which they formed a circle and it was a point of honor with them not to leave a vestige of their repast. Wharrepore and the two Chiefs of the Nattakahoons breakfasted with us after they had taken their fill outside the behaviour of the two latter was perfectly correct but Wharrepore behaved like a bear and would not be content with anything but Grog and would not allow one of the Nattakahoon women to enter our room although I had invited her. She was one of the finest women I ever saw exceedingly handsome, with regular features and beautiful hands and feet. I am told that most of the Natta-kahoon women far exceed the other New Zealand women in beauty and general personal appearance and are generally better behaved. After parade the natives dispersed and we saw no more of them that day.

The 27th had been the day appointed for the holders of land under the Company to choose their Town Acres 62 and during the previous week the Plan had been exhibited, and numbers of the holders had been constantly employed perambulating the intended site of the Town part of which is on an elivated plain of small extent part on the beach and part in a deep swamp which looks at present much more fit to dig peats out of than to build upon. Now many of the chosers had most probably never seen a plan before in their lives and had pushed off examining the ground untill the last moment so when they came to make their selection they found that they could not indicate on the map the acre they wished to possess on the Ground. Some of these people said give us time, mark out the streets and distinguish the corners by white posts others said put up a post numbered in each acre. Those who knew the ground said - Let us choose and the Surveyors said Let anyone who does not know the ground pay us and we will choose for them Moreover they made copies of the plan at three Guineas per Copy. At length it was decided that the selection should commence on the morrow that the corners of the streets should be marked and that fifty town sections should be chosen each day. On the third day somebody found out that his section of ground did not correspond with the plan an enquiry was instituted when lo! it was discovered that the choices had been made by an incorrect plan. Then there was the Devil to pay. Those who had made bad choices wanted to choose again and those who were satisfied with their selection would have no

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other than their choice at any price. Next day they assembled to talk over the bussiness and at last agreed that all further distribution of land should cease untill the return of Coll Wakefield from the Bay of Islands whither he had proceeded in the Brougham to present a Loyal address from the Settlers of Port Nicholson to His Excy Capt Hobson.

30th In my walks through the Bush I had fallen in with a very wide Native track leading across the hills to the Eastward and this track I determined to follow out. 63 On a former occasion I had ascertained that about four miles from Thorndon the road divided and that the right hand road also divided after a few hundred yards. I found also two places where immense trees had been felled I suppose for canoes and have no doubt that the roads had been cut in order to carry them to the Straits on one side and the harbour on the other. Hoping to find the track extend to the Straits I started after Parade walked down the beach half a mile & then struck up over the hills crossing some deep Gullies and Potato Grounds. The third large Gully had a stream of water running through it and over the water was a Native Bridge an extremely rickety structure built of forked sticks and long spars with a road way twelve feet wide made of sticks running fore and aft. I believe the stream to be the Ki warra warra. Crossing the bridge I went up the other side and about 1/2 a mile further came to the place where the road divides: here my companion left me. I followed the left hand road and came to a plain intersected by small streams and thinly timbered by heavy trees. I lost the path but followed on untill I heard the sea when I turned about there was a ridge between me & the sea. I do not think the distance I went in a strait line could be more than eight miles. I did not get home untill after dark. I saw several trees overlooking the sea with houses in them I suppose for lookout stations: they were not the same as their store houses.

31st On the evening of this day a paper came to Mr Shortlands hands containing the proposed Bill with regard to Land in New Zealand. 64 This paper had been three weeks in the Colony but had been carefully kept back from public view by those who thought it their interest to do so & among these was the worthy Editor of the "Gazette". Mr Shortland took measures to give the bill every publicity and now the unfortunate settlers are in the lowest state of despondency some talking of resisting the Govt others of moving in a body to South America and others of actions against the Company. The reason of this is a clause

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in the Bill refusing to acknowledge the claims of any individual to any land available for a town and also to any harbour or island &c &c - see the Bill. This is a smasher for the Company and as it never rains but it pours a correspondence has been discovered between the agent for some of the Land proprietors and Lord Normanby & Lord John Russel both of whom distinctly state that H. M. Govt will not recognize any purchase of Land under the New Zealand Land Company and refusing to acknowledge in any way the authority of that body.

August 1st At daylight we were awakened by the howlings of some Mauries in Muturoea's new house who were making the "Tangie" I went out directly after I got up to see what they did it for & found that his two Nattakahoon slaves were grieving for their friends who had returned home. It is difficult to convey an accurate idea of the "Tangie" which is performed by one or two parties and in the latter case consists of a Treble & Bass chaunted alternately in a sort of broken manner the head is held down and under the nose which is seldom wiped is a large and constantly increasing pool. According to the degree of grief sustained, hours & even days are spent in this delightful occupation. It is also a sign of joy & two friends meeting will sit down join hands and noses wailing in a miserable manner & mingling - not their tears. The high note of the "Tangie" is like a dog Baying the moon. N. B. To rub noses is a mark of great esteem but the Mauries seem aware that we do not admire that custom & only Nose with us on peculiar occasions. The women when they make the "Tangie" frequently cut their faces with shells. There is the Tangie for the dead or sick - the "Tangie" of welcome or after a long absence & the "Tangie" at separation. When a Mauri is sick he is not allowed to remain in the Wharre but a fire is lit outside and wrapped in his blanket he lies by it untill he either recovers or dies.

The principal Chiefs of the Pah where we at present live are the two Brothers Muturoea & Wyderop and in my opinion they are vastly superior to any of the other Chiefs about Port Nicholson. Muturoea is an especial favourite with us from his quiet manners and tractable temper. Muturoea is above the middle height very strongly but at the same time lightly made in fact he seems formed for strength and activity his head remarkably well formed the forehead high & broad and his eye such as you would seldom see surpassed very large and of a decided hazle. Report says that he was a great warrior but he has now become Missionary. 65 Of an evening he generally comes and sits with us frequently entertaining us with an exhibition of the manner he used to

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creep on his sleeping enemy & the general manoevres of a mauri when fighting; at times he shows us how he used to tear his foe, eat his flesh and suck his blood never scrupling to acknowledge that he was once a Cannibal but always concludes by saying that he will never do so again that it was very wicked. At such times his whole figure appears strung to its utmost pitch his eyes dilate and his countenance assumes a ferocity quite foreign to his natural mild expression he is for the time a perfect savage. He is well Tattooed and I should suppose him to be about 40 years old. His wife and he has only one is also a decided Character I cannot praise her beauty but such a virago I never met with she is much attached to us both as individuals and as a body but is so jealous that she will hardly allow any one to come into the house and woe betide any one who in her presence dares to speak otherwise than well of us. In talent and intelligence she is not inferior to her husband and whenever a dispute arises with regard to land she is a certain reference and will run over the titles & pedigrees of its possessors from time immemorial. I must add the Muturoea refused to sell his land to the Company and is in consequence in bad repute amongst them. 66

Wyderop is a fine fellow but does not equal his brother he has more of the savage about him in ordinary but is certainly inferior in talent. We are however capital friends. When first we came to Port Nicholson these two were very indignant that we had taken up our position on the grounds of their inferiors our removal nearly led to a fight and now they say The Governor & soldiers live with us & we are their friends. Such is their docility that when it was reported by a white Scoundrel that Wharrepore had been murdered by the Nattakahoons they came to Mr Shortland to say that the Tribes were gathering to avenge themselves but that they would not go unless he gave them permission. One evening a Chief a favorite of the Company Named Apuni 67 from the other side of the Bay came to Mr Shortland to make some enquiries about his land. Now Apuni is according to the Company one of the Sovereign chiefs of Port Nicholson second only to Wharrepore. Knowing that the title of the Company to certain lands was disputed by Muturoea & by the people of the Pah Taranachie 68 we enquired from Apuni if he & Wharrepore had power to sell those lands he answered No. We then asked him if they had not sold all Port Nicholson to Colonel Wakefield he answered Yes. Our next question was How could you sell land to Colonel Wakefield which you knew did not belong to you? He staggered for a minute & then answered How could I refuse when I saw so many good blankets and Guns.

The day before yesterday a Brigantine came in from Sydney and various

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ports in New Zealand. We got no intelligence (as we had recd letters up to within four days of her sailing from Sydney & she brought no mail or newspapers) with the exception that she had spoken a schooner in Capiti direct from Sydney which reported that the New Zealand Bill had passed the Council in Sydney and that the Captain of the Schooner had promissed the Capt of the Brigantine some Papers but had been driven to sea by a violent gale & that the Schooner was not likely to come here. We have had two days tremendous Gales from the S. W. & W. and the last ten days have been generally stormy. A Vessel is reported outside. Walked up to the top of a hill from which I could see the heads found no vessel.

(Marginal Note--Nearly lost my Serjeant. I had given him leave to go duck shooting & the poor fellow followed his sport into a large marsh in which he was benighted after spending the night up to his middle in water he reached home at two oclock the next day half perished.)

7th Some chiefs from the Wykani 69 district came to visit Muturoea. The next morning there was another exhibition of enormous eating one fellow exceeded anything I ever saw. He had the greater part of a broken saucer in his hand and with this he pitched the rice into his mouth just like a man throwing ballast into a ship. In the evening they came to talk to us and said that the Natta-row-cowas 70 (a very warlike tribe Cannibals & Pagans) were collecting to make a bung-bung of them. The People of Wykani & all those parts are dreadfully afraid of these people & the Natta-kahoons but peace had been made with the latter.

Memo. The Company are so disgusted at the Perfidy of the British Crown & Govt that many members of that disinterested body intend removing from under the baneful influence of the Jack and migrating to Chili. 71 Some are so sanguine of the success of this plan as to propose moving en masse. I wish they would make haste and go for then we could go too. We are all wretchedly sick of this place.

(Marginal Note--On Monday Evg a Deputation waited on Mr Shortland to request that he would call a Public Meeting to deliberate on the Acts of Govt and the manner in which the interests of the settlers under the N. Z. C. were affected thereby. Mr Shortland declined acceeding to their modest request and informed them that in the event of a meeting being held they had better mind what they said.

11th A beautiful day could not go far in consequence of being engaged to dine with the Clergyman Mr Churton who gave us a very tolerable dinner.

12th In the morning started in the boat for the Wywatu. A Brigantine

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was working in so we changed our course and boarded her she proved to be the "Kate" from Sydney out one month & had been to Kapati & brought little news. Again disappointed and vexed (for we have now been here nearly three months without any communication from the Bay of Islands and all our stores are exhausted) we continued our row and went up the River about a mile we then returned and reached home just after dark. In the evening saw in a Gazette that the vacant Majority had gone right through the Regt and the next day that Regiments in N. S. W. are to be put on the Indian establishment of pay & allowances. I fear that the latter news is too good to be true.

13th The expedition to the Tararua Range returned today 72 they reported that they had penetrated the valley through which the Hutt runs for 50 miles at which distance it was as large as at its mouth that they ascended the highest peak of the mountains which they suppose to be about 25 miles from Britania and from its summit could percieve nothing but hill after hill and lastly that the whole extent of available land which they saw did not exceed 30,000 acres. I hope soon to see Dr Deiffenbach from whom I shall hear all particulars. I have since seen Dr Dieffenbach who says that owing to the unfavorable weather that they did not reach the summit of the Mountains but only that of a lower ridge to the southward and eastward and he also diminishes the extent of available land to 12000 acres on which there is much splendid timber. More promotion. Another Company has gone in the Regt. It never rains but it pours.

16th The Brougham arrived at four oclock A.M. with Colonel Wakefield from the Bay of Islands but strange to say brought no mail. By a private letter I heard that I am to remain here in charge five or six months longer. Two Police Magistrates 73 are in the Brittomart H. M. B. which has proceeded to Bankes Peninsula to watch the proceedings of a French Frigate which has gone there for the purpose of founding a Colony of about fifty Labourers and Farmers. The Capt of the Frigate stated to Capt Hobson that he had no instructions to acknowledge him as Governor of New Zealand or to recognize the British Title to this country but at the same time denied that any claim on the part of France existed to the Sovereignty of these Islands. 74 The Brittomart has a large mail on board which will be tolerably old by the time we get it. The arrival of the Police Magistrates will deprive me of my companions Smart &

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Shortland who will shortly sail for the Thames & Bay of Islands. The Thames 75 is selected for the site of the Capital & a party have gone down to commence operations. The Town 76 at the Bay of Islands is surveyed and ready for sale and the Bill has caused nearly as much excitement at the Bay & the Northern part of the Island as it has here. Major Bunbury has sent in his papers. All the Detacht at the Bay are in Tents and our horses nearly starved to death. Strange that they have not sent me down an article of clothing or any of my traps. Last two days stormy with rain.

17th Schooner Hannah arrived from Bankes Peninsula neither saw or heard anything of the French or English. Reports the Country barren and dreary & knee deep in Snow. In the afternoon determined on breaking up the ground in the front of our House (which is to be mine) for a garden took my axe & cut down a tree for fencing.

18th Worked all day preparing stuff for Fencing.

19th Before Breakfast brought in a quantity of wood at eleven went to Petwoni. The wind was fair & blowing fresh Reef in the Sprit & Jib set boat went like a race horse. After I had got my money walked back road very rough & shingly. Paid my men & then took a walk.

20th Made a good days work at fencing.

21 Employed all the forenoon making handles to my tools and grinding my chisels. In the afternoon called on Mr Churton. Heard in the course of the day that at the meeting held on the 19th for the purpose of reading Capt Hobson's answer to the address from the Inhabitants of Port Nicholson that the Chili expedition was strongly advocated by Colonel Wakefield and other Members of the Company and that a deputation consisting of Messrs Hanson & Moreing with Dr Evans are to proceed

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to Sydney in the Cuba to ascertain the intentions of Sir G. Gipps with regard to the New Zealand Land Company. Mr Shortland has been pestered these last few days by workmen & labourers of all descriptions who want to leave this for the Bay of Islands & the Thames on account of the utter stagnation of bussiness. They state that rather than remain that they will go to New South Wales. Many of the Capitalists are endeavouring to persuade the labouring classes to follow them to South America and after this have had the impertinence to call upon Mr Shortland complaining that he is endeavouring to take them away when on the contrary his constant reply to the numerous applicants has been get work if you can I do not want to take you away but if you cannot come to the Thames or Bay of Islands where I will ensure you work rather than that you should leave New Zealand. In fact the only person who goes with him is a Man with whom he had an engagement prior to his quitting England. This is the conduct which the Worthies of the company complain of. 77 A Charge of Theft has been brought against one of my men who is a great Blackguard by his comrades which I am afraid is too True. Rangetuchera 78 the Principal chief from the Caputi District came here this evening, he brings no intelligence of any import except the Te Rirorepra 79 still wants to fight & wished him to join.

26th In the afternoon just as we were preparing to go on board the Platina to dinner a man ran unto the Barrack square and told me that the Mauries had risen and murdered Capt Daniel and two other white Men on asking him how he knew it he replied that a Mr George Wade

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had sent him to tell me of it. As I did not believe a word of this awful account 80 I took precautions to have my men ready and walked down to the Pah Te Aro or Taranachie where this outrage was said to have been perpetrated. On the Way I met the murdered man Capt Daniel walking quietly home he said that he had interfered with some natives who were putting the house of Mr Revans into the sea and that one of them rewarded his zeal by trying to split his head. On entering the Pah we found (for by this time Shortland and Smart who were in the boat had joined me) a number of Pachias armed with all sorts of weapons and in a very excited state assembled in it and the Mauries sitting round looking quietly on: They welcomed us when we entered and seemed very much pleased at our arrival. Our First step was to bundle all the armed Pachias out of the Pah and then we enquired into the cause of the disturbance which we found to be as follows. The Natives had all along denied that they had sold their land to the Company and when the survey commenced at first interfered with the Surveyors and pulled up their marks but ceased molesting them when told by Mr Shortland that their land should not be taken away from them untill the title as to right had been decided before the Commissioners. After the survey was completed and the choices made Mr Revans wished to place his house on an acre he had chosen there. The Natives opposed him but their opposition was soon overcome by quiet argument & they consented to let him live there but his servants who were employed to put up the house again exasperated them by calling them slaves and saying that the land was not theirs. After this their opposition increased and on the morning of this day one of the principal men was employed shoving the house into the sea when Capt Daniel who was passing interfered and shoved him away. Just then a team of Bullocks arrived with some more of the house in a cart. One of the Natives attacked the bullocks and afterwards the driver who struck him with his whip Capt Daniel and two other men went to the rescue and other Natives assisted their comrade. Capt Daniel thinks that he was nearly tomahawked and one of the Natives was struck. One man ran into the settlement crying as he went along that the Natives were up and murdering the whites and so the row ended. The next day the whole affair was enquired into and nothing of importance elicited. My private opinion is that the greater part of the affair was got up by members of the Company for a purpose in which they are completely foiled for the Natives have given their land into Mr Shortlands care who will allow the Company to occupy the sections they have chosen under certain restrictions and to this the Natives have consented. A Notice has also been posted forbidding the people assembling in arms unless duly authorized.

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25th Blowing hard from the S. E. Three Whale Boats capsized & nine persons drowned. 81 The Mauries fished out all that were saved the whole beach is in a state of excitement.

29th A French Whaler came in having been off the Port 14 days afraid to enter so much for this vaunted Port. 82 28th Recd intelligence that the Natives from Toupoo have attacked the Taranachie & Wykani natives; there has been a battle & some are killed. 83 I hope to get at them soon. The intelligence is authentic.

(Marginal Note--31st Coromandel arrived from England via Sydney.)

Septr 2nd At seven oclock went on board the Platina intending to go in her as far as the heads. She was under way when we boarded her but the wind falling fight anchored just inside the inner heads. After breakfast went in the boat to examine the coast leading towards the heads, landed and walked about a mile. A fair breeze springing up returned to the Platina and accompanied her five miles outside the heads. At two sighted the Brittomart courses 84 down and at three wished Capt Wycherly a good passage and returned. Our pull of 12 miles was very severe against a strong wind a heavy swell rolling in from the Southward. Reached home a little before eight.

3rd Blowing hard from the Northward with heavy squalls about noon the Britomart beat in and anchored just astern of the Coromandel. Capt Stanley came on shore with the despatches almost immediately after anchoring. I got a few English papers in one of which I saw the accouchement of Mr Parry but no letters from home. I got a few from the Bay of Islands. (Marginal Note--Coromandel drifted a long way during the night, Britomart also.)

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4th Stanley and Mr Murphey 85 the new Police Magistrate dined with us. Stanley gave a very bad account of Acheroa 86 he says that there is very little to be got there except Potatoes that the hills are 3,000 feet high and that it is very cold. The harbour is good. Pigeons swarm a few miles off 87 one Whaler had four hogsheads salted down. He described the Capt of the French Frigate as a most gentlemanly man but the Commander of the colonizing Whaler quite the contrary. He told I. E. (the Capt of the Frigate) Capt Stanley that the French had no intention of assuming any sovereignty in N. Z. and would not allow the whaler to land her guns or hoist the French Flag. The Company is entirely a private speculation the company consisting of only 4 individuals, of whom the Capt is the principal. Capt Stanley is of opinion that the French Settlers will soon abandon their present position and migrate to different parts of the Islands. Our party was broken up by a seaman informing Capt Stanley that the Coromandel was foul of the Brig.

5th Very heavy weather Ship foul of Brig.

6th After Church went on board the Brig found her in great confusion she had just got clear of the Ship and was so much damaged that she will not sail for a week.

7th Some good boat racing, weather tolerably fine last few days got on well with my garden and fence. Two of the Brig dined with us.

8th Rather stormy. Shortland & Smart dined with Colonel Wakefield. I was alone in the evening and wrote to Parry. More boat racing.

9th Warm with heavy rain no wind.

10th & 11th Dined on board the Brig next day some of the Gun room officers dined with us.

12th A beautiful morning I had intended going to a place called Wye Kerrick 88 but put it off as I was so soon to part with Shortland & Smart. They went on board the brig and I went out fishing with some natives in a Canoe. It soon commenced raining heavily we had poor sport and returned. The Eleanor arrived from Hawkes bay. The Wye Kani natives repulsed those from Toupoo with the loss of 170 men. 89

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13th After Church wrote my letters and took a short walk.

14th Started with Shortland and Smart in the boat for Britannia the wind against us blowing strong dined with Baron [Alzdorf] 90 who returned with us coming home carried away the Thwart of the boat.

15th Shortland and Smart packing all the forenoon. Dined with Stanley at five and returned at nine alone. The house looks quite deserted.

16th When going off in the evening before we saw a Brigantine coming in which proved to be the Essington. Mr Brown was in her. 91 He called upon us and brought some papers of a late date He also told us that the Home Govt and the Company had quarrelled and that the former had sent instructions to Sir George Gipps to prosecute the latter for all their unlawful acts with the utmost rigour. 92 Shortland came on shore Smart did not it was blowing so fresh that I did not go off with him had the weather been moderate I should have gone to the heads. I worked at my fence untill 1/2 past four when the Britomart weighed & stood out with a fair wind. The Natives regret their departure very much. I sat down to my solitary dinner which I had just commenced when a number of Mauries came in to condole with me. After they were gone I wrote up my journal I fear that Mr Murphy will ill supply the place of those who are gone I do not like his appearance atall. Time will shew if I am right or not in my opinion. On Tuesday the Lady Leith and Eleanor sailed the first for Sydney and today the Essington sailed for Bankes Peninsula.

26th Of a truth this is a miserable place to be left all alone in. However I do my best to live happily and pass the time merrily. The Clergyman 93 has lent me The life of Frederick the Great and an account of the Great Plague and a Mr Strang 94 a lawyer some of Miss Edgeworths works and Byron so that I am not as badly off as I might be. It is Saturday and excepting that I was out Shooting on monday in the Swamp where my serjeant was so nearly lost I have not been out of the Barrack this week by the way on Wednesday I went out to the heads to fish & look for the "Inglis" which was reported off the coast however we could not find her and had no sport. My Garden is tolerably stocked and is now finished with the exception of two gates. My tools are a great blessing. Yesterday a

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fine Brigantine and a Brig arrived from Sydney but no letters for me this is enough to give one the Blue devils. Four months without a line from home. The account of the defeat of the Toupoo people by the natives of Taranachie is confirmed the latter behaved nobly killing 170 of their cruel invaders but the Christians in those parts fear that the Wycato Natives will attack them with their whole force of 4000 fighting men. 95 Only one little circumstance has occurred to disturb the quiet of the place. Some Natives went to Mr Parkes home and a servant maid bringing out a cutlass to intimidate them it was wrested from her and her hand severely cut. The Natives alarmed at what they had done escaped into the Bush. All people talk of the Flat land discovered by Capt Smith on enquiry I found it to be the same I found months ago and which I have before mentioned in my journal & which I told him of. 96 He says that there are 7000 acres if so he has enlarged and improved on my discovery. I see by the Sydney papers that Sayers has got off from his Court Martial better than could be expected. I think it was about ten days since that one of the most sensible and enterprising of the Colonists a Mr Hopper 97 was drowned. He is a great loss being from all I can hear an honest man. The greater part of the week the weather has been stormy and rainy. Muturoea & Lady have not been to see me often they are too much engaged paying court to the "New Governor" as they style Mr Murphy I fear that all the Mauries are not as unsophisticated as you would suppose Savages to be and that the above named couple are clever enough to know where to pay their court. The other day last Sunday I was walking in the bush when Toby startled a fine sheep. Knowing that he must be absent without leave I laid "Caesar" a cross bred bloodhound on his track and captured him after a severe run I suppose that I am the first who ever used a hound in New Zealand O! it was glorious to hear him give Tongue. The Natives all talked of leaving Port Nicholson because they could not get their land to sow potatoes & the Pachias wished to turn them out of their Pahs. I spoke to Mr Murphy on the subject and think that my remonstrances had the desired effect at all events they have given up the thought of going. In the New Zealand Gazette of Saturday Mr Sinclair had the impudence to deny having told the Governor that the Company were hostile to the

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Govt a dirty shuffle. 98 Of that he was never accused but of having said so to others both in public & private.

28th Between twelve and one in the morning I was dreaming most delightfully of great rejoicings and the ringing of bells my dream suddenly changed, somebody was shaking my bed. I awakened and jumped up with a "Hello" when to my astonishment the bells still continued ringing and my bed danced about in an unaccountable manner I quickly percieved that a severe shock of Earthquake was the cause of all this & the bells were a number of bottles under my bed. The motion was peculiar and very disagreable but did not resemble that of a ship no noise accompanied the shock but some hours before I had heard odd grumblings. Cannot say how many shocks there were for I turned round and went to sleep.

At daylight I got up and by 7 had breakfasted and was under weigh for Wye Herigie 99 (the true pronunciation) our road led us through swamps and over hills for some five six or seven miles and then we descended onto the sea beach and followed that about the same distance. I killed a duck which fell into the sea Toby went for it took it onto a rock and commenced his dinner shouts were no avail but the contents of my left barrel soon brought him to my feet without the duck which I had to swim after myself. The sea beach was alternately deep sand shingle and rocks most fatiguing walking. Wye Herigie is a very rapid stream tortuous in its course and up it I waded the water sometimes reaching my middle. The Shooting was capital at every turn one or two couple of ducks got up without saying a word and the banks being thickly wooded they were round the next corner in no time. I only gave over killing for want of shot. When I came down the river I found my Guide and Keeper Te Pe Re asleep at its mouth I awakened him & we turned homewards. We rested many times going over the beach & night came on fortunately it was clear & the moon old enough to give a little light had there been no moon I should have turned into a deserted Mauri hut for the night. When about five miles from home Te Pe Re declared that he could go no further with out a bit to eat & begged me to get him a bit of bread from a stock keepers hut hard by I urged him to keep up his spirits untill we reached home but in a few hundred yards the poor fellow fell from exhaustion. There was no help for it but to make for the hut where we were kindly welcomed & regaled with Pork & Biscuit a pot of Tea a mouthful of grog & a smoke. We sat a long half hour and then leaving part of my days sport to our

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hospitable entertainers we once more mounted Shank's mare and reached home at ten o'clock.

29th The only thing worth mentioning is a report that a Canoe with one of the principal Chiefs and 30 natives from Queen Charlottes Sound was swamped yesterday in a tide rip & all perished.

30th After muster I was agreeably surprized by a visit from the drowned chief and all his followers one of them a young chief was one of the finest men I ever saw he stood 6th 5in and was beautifully made Barrett said that he knew him well, that he was not more than twenty years old & although a perfect Hercules in strength had not done growing. They had been in great danger and had thrown all their pigs and potatoes overboard. lst &. 2nd [October] Bad weather worked in my garden & made a gate.

3rd Dined with Capt Daniell. During the night and on the morning of the

4th there was some very heavy hail. After breakfast walked to Petoni and returned in the evening. Saw a great number of natives busily employed planting potatoes. Poor Alzdorf is very unwell.

6th Was up at daylight. The morning looked heavy but nevertheless I determined on going to Pararua 100 I could not find Te Perere for a long time but at length found him seated with his class learning to write. A Mauri teacher was reading portions of some book which the pupils wrote on slates. I find that about an hour every morning immediately after prayers is devoted to this purpose by most of the young men. We had a heavy pull to Petoni I never remember to have seen such violent squalls they came out of the gullies as out of a smiths bellows. We reached Petoni about 1/2 past eight and immediately set out on foot for Pararua (the party consisting of Myself Te Perere & another Mauri who was going to Wykani) although it began to rain heavily. We continually ascended hills untill we were nearly behind Pepitea 101 which was in fact doubling back to where we first started from and over these the Mauri took us at a pace I found it difficult to keep up with carrying a double gun and two blankets while he had nothing but a small basket of food and was moreover without shoes a great advantage in going over the roots of trees which literally paved the Path. At the base of the last hill we stopped to light our pipes it being about half way. The rain had ceased and the natives soon got fire

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by rubbing two bits of dry wood. They cut one piece to a blunt point and made a small groove in the other the 1st piece was then rubbed violently with its point in the groove of the other untill fire was produced. Just as the fire began to burn a party of two men and four women and two children came up they were going to Petoni with Turnips and Potatoes and immediately addressed themselves to cooking some of the latter. The women were cruelly loaded especially one old woman and the poor thing was sent on & not allowed any potatoes or rest. Untill the potatoes were roasted and eaten I could not induce my Mauries to move so I had to stay and eat potatoes too. Our walk for the next eight miles was still through the forest but over a dead flat intersected by the ----- which river we crossed twelve or fourteen times. I killed one wood Quest. (Marginal Note--The Wood Quest is called by Byron the Wood Dove in "The Island".) Pararua Bay was now to be walked round and a nasty five mile walk it was over sand rocks & shingle I saw many ducks but could not get one. The Mauries we saw were very anxious to know who I was and when told that I was the "Rangitira Ohoeo" 102 said that I might be so but that I had not a chiefs Trousers on (mine had been torn in several places by the bush). Reaching the mouth of the bay I fired a shot and Mr Thomas's boat 103 came and took me over to his house at the Whaling station called Paramatta. I do not like Whaling stations everyone & everything stinks of oil even the very dinner tastes of it. In the present case I was too hungry to be particular. Thomas furnished me with a change and we devoted the afternoon to looking about I wished to go to Mana but it blew too hard. Pararua is a fine bay the anchorage secure and twelve feet water on the bar. After tea spun yarns with Thomas (who was in the 87th & had a brother in the 80th) untill bedtime.

7th A Stormy morning Thomas decided on returning with me to Port Nicholson. After breakfast visited the various offices connected with a whaling establishment. About twelve went up the bay in one of the boats on our road home and here I was lucky enough to kill a paradise duck the longest shot I ever made. Just where I got the Wood Quest I nearly shot Thomas who was just behind me a bine got across the doghead and let off the Gun the charge of duckshot just clearing his head. Memo. Never carry a gun with the doghead on the cap but always at half cock. In the river we saw some Prawns & Perere said that it was full of great fish. We

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reached home at six. I estimate the distance to Pararua at about 25 miles by the present road but think that as the crow flies it is about 12 and that a road avoiding the hills may be found in 15. Thomas dined & remained with me untill ten oclock.

8th A lovely day skinned my duck. In the evening took Mr Churton back his books.

9th Fine day commenced flooring my house dined with Colonel Wakefield.

10th Up at five flooring worked all day. A schooner from the Bay of Islands no letters. Dined with Capt Smith.

11th Flooring all day. In the evening dined with the Wakefield club 104 their first meeting. They intend requesting me to become an honorary member. Menus & capital plum pudding no bad thing in New Zealand. Got home at + past eleven.

12th Still blowing a gale from the Northward. The wind never backs without blowing heavily. My duck does not look as well as it would have done had not the Mauri women got hold of it. McCarthy heard a noise in the kitchen went in and to his surprize found a number of these devils fighting for its feathers to decorate their d----d greasy heads on his appearance the poor bird was thrown violently on the ground and he was as violently abused for driving them all out. Third day of the Gale.

13th Was up at daylight and by 3 P.M. had finished flooring my first room 15 x 12. My garden comes on well but I am afraid that these tremendous winds will injure it much. This morning the Guard Tent was split from top to bottom. In the evening I read Manfred and at first thought of making extracts from the parts which pleased me most but the whole is so exquisitely beautiful that I must have copied the whole. Byrons original third act was wholly unworthy of him. Of the songs of the spirits I much prefer that of the Third how beautiful are its opening lines.

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14th when I awakened I could not think what had come over me I had pains everywhere and my back ached so that I could scarcely move at first I thought that I had rheumatism in some one of its numerous varieties but then remembered that it might possibly be the result of my three last days work. I sat reading all the morning and in the afternoon went out to get a few small birds for the sake of their skins. The morning had been beautiful the wind from the Southward but now it drew round to the northward & commenced blowing. Just as I had shot the 2nd Toughie (or Toey Toey as it is also spelt) 105 spied a Barque beating in so trotted home. She proved to be the Magnet from Sydney out 16 days three of which she was at Kapati. I got neither letters or papers & in general she brought little news. In the evening made up my returns for Hd Quarters.

15th Blowing a heavy gale. Skinned my birds. Very stiff and sore, mooned about in the sun and at six went to an opening dinner at Barretts Hotel. 106 The dinner was good but the whole affair was miserably dull. We sat down sixteen in number. I was well enough amused for I sat next to Mr Petre opposite Major Baker and Mr Crawford was on Mr Petres other side all these were lately from Sydney & I heard a great deal of news and about us the conversation was tolerably lively. They Introduced a fellow with a harp a monstrous beast who played God Save the Queen Moores Melodies and no end of overtures all in a hand gallop and there was also a little deformity who howled bawled yelled and screeched making attitudes & grimaces more than enough for Grimaldi this wretch was accompanied by the Harpist. I most devoutly wished that the one would break his arm & the other choak but neither of these events took place. About twelve the chairman rose from his chair & we all followed his example.

16th I have heard of its blowing a gale and half a gale but if ever it blew a gale & a half it is doing so at the present moment. When will these winds cease. Wrote my journal in the forenoon & in the afternoon strolled about In the evening whilst reading some of the Edinborough Reviews Mr Murphy entered with a bundle of letters in his hand. From these it appeared that the Natives of Cloudy Bay have murdered a party of six pachias & burned their house. 107 Altogether the intelligence was of such

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a nature as to render some demonstration necessary. We waited on Colonel Wakefield who immediately offered the Barque Brougham & it was finally determined that I should take as many men as possible & that we should embark at nine the next Morning.

17th Ship cannot be ready for sea untill two oclock shall not go out today. At Two embarked blowing a gale from the N. W. so heavily that we thought it prudent to wait untill the morning. When this was determined I went on shore and dined at the Club.

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18th Blowing harder than ever cannot get out. No one went on shore & our only visitor was a boat which passed bottom up she had been blown off the beach passed by us to the rocks where she was broken in pieces. At Noon let go a second anchor. The "Brougham" is one of the cleanest ships I ever was in no bugs or cockroaches and the decks as tight as drums.

19th At four A. M. the wind from the Southward & very light but before we could heave in it died away and at seven was quite calm at eight a fresh breeze sprang up from the Northward we weighed at Nine passed the inner heads. After passing the outer heads reefed Topsails & stood along shore close hauled. It was very squally a good deal of head sea and great tide rips. When about half way over the wind became very scant & we shook out the reefs in our Topsails & set Top Gallant sails. As soon as we had done this the wind freshened again. At one we tacked and bore up for port Underwood which we made after a few Tacks the Wind was right out. We came to an anchor off the Bay immediately above Ocean Bay I believe it is called Kakapo 108 & immediately went on shore. From Mr Wyning & others we got some information respecting the late supposed murder which went far in impressing me that the unfortunate men had met with foul play at the instigation of certain pachias. After dispatching a boat to Otawilla or Robin Hoods Bay to tell the mauries to come up on the morrow to hold a Kororo we returned on board having previously visited most of the Settlements in the port. 109 We were told that the Mauries had declared that when or if Authorities came that they would produce the supposed murderers and facilitate the investigation of the case by every means in their power and therefore considered that an invitation to them would be sufficient but in the event of their refusing the boats crew were ordered to return instantly in which case the Detacht was in readiness to leave the ship at Two A.M. so as to be on them at dawn. I sat up untill two and the boat not returning went to bed.

20th Early the boat returned reporting that the Mauries would be up that day if the South East wind which had sprung up in the night should lull. The Men caught more fish than they knew what to do with. As the S. Eer continued during which a boat can neither land at or leave the beach of Otawilla after we had visited two Whaling Establishments we pulled down to Ocean bay proposing to walk over from thence about an hours walk. When nearly half way there Mr Murphy knocked up & we

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returned. Were overtaken by two Mauri women who told us that the Mauries were prevented from coming up by the wind but would come as soon as it changed. This was satisfactory & we returned.

21st Wind Northwest pulled down to Otawilla where we found the Mauries just preparing to launch their canoes. Our enquiries led us to believe that their story was true and that the men had been drowned yet further enquiry was necessary and they agreed to follow us to the house of Mr Guard. Ki Kora an inferior chief, an old Mauri woman, & a mauri Girl who had lived a short time with Allan 110 one of the Drowned men came in the boat with us. We pulled to the ship I took a file of men & a corporal with me for the sake of appearances gave the necessary orders in case the Detacht should be wanted and went to Mr Guards. Before I go further I shall describe our reception at Otawilla. On landing we were met by the principal chiefs of the place Aboo & Gunnai 111 & by Big-fellow chief of Whites Bay they led us up to the place where all the people about 200 men women & children were assembled & told them why we had come & who we were. Their Wharris were beautifully built and they were busy preparing a burial place for one of their Chiefs who had just died. The Corpse was under a little tent and covered with a white cloth. When all the mauries had taken their seats we commenced our bussiness by enquiring of the Chiefs if he knew anything about the matter he said he did not but was sure that Ki Kora had not murdered the Pachias. The first Evidence we questioned was the Girl before mentioned. She stated that on Monday three weeks (the day being very stormy) she left Kakapo in a boat in company with Mr Wilton, Allan & four men that the boat shipped several seas & when near the river capsized that she got on shore on the mast which Allan gave her but that Allan who was the only one of the Pachias who could swim would not come with her but tried to save Mr Wilton that on reaching the shore she could not see anything of the boat that she did not look for some minutes because she was sick & went to sleep (I suppose fainted) that after some time she saw Ki Kora in a canoe that she called him & told him what had happened that he went to look for the bodies but could not find them although he found some bedding and articles which had been in the boat sugar, tea, flour, salt, meat, blankets, shoes, trousers &c &c, that most of these things were in a duck bag & the bedding rolled up. Ki Kora gave the same account from the time of his finding the girl. The Old woman was examined concerning a Watch which it was said was in their possession & must have been taken from Mr Wiltons person but as well as the others denied having ever seen it. One of the men who was with Kikora said that he found some of

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the things & swam out for the bedding which was on some rocks that at some distance they saw a man crawling on the beach & that Ki Kora told them to go and help him & not to take anything from him neither Knife pipe or tobacco that he went but when going over a ridge he lost sight of him & on going to the place where he had seen him could only see the the track of a dog. This is a summary of their evidence then given. We walked through the Pah talking with the Chiefs nearly half an hour and then got into our boat Ki Kora the Girl & woman going with us as I have before said. At first they would not go saying that they feared we would hurt them but finally agreed to go on our promise that they should have a fair trial at Mr Guards. All the Natives followed in six war Canoes.

At Mr Guards the first White witness stated that he recd intelligence of the boat being capsized & the people drowned that on the Thursday following he went down to look for the bodies that on the Monday his attention had been called by a large fire near the White Bluff & that on going there he found parts of the boat & Mr Wiltons stretcher burned & on some stones some stuff which was either oil or something else greasy perhaps blood that he saw Ki Kora who denied having any of the things but that on searching his Wharre he found the above mentioned articles. Another Evidence found some oars on the beach between the river & the White bluff also a tent Pole & the Mast. A woman swore that a pair of shoes produced & said to have been found in the bag had been on her husbands feet tied with flax when he went away. Other witnesses proved the day to have been very stormy the boat not adapted for such weather and the mouth of the river a dangerous place where several people had been drowned before. The Mauri girl & man gave the same evidence as in the morning and reconciled their evidence with that of the Pachias on some points in which they appeared to differ in a very distinct & remarkable manner. Kikora said that the children burned the bits of boat that the fire was made to cook some ducks. He enumerated the names of several people whom he had himself saved from drowning in the memory of people present & ended by saying had I killed the white men I could not have concealed it. I must have taken the bush & the other tribes would have given me up when they caught me. It would have been the same as now the truth would have come out. One Evidence was not a Christian yet Ki Kora insisted on his being sworn & kissing the Bible.

Under these circumstances Mr Murphy desired Ki Kora to be dismissed & when told that he was free his look of joy was very touching he said nothing but all the Christians immediately went to prayers. I have no doubt that the man & his whole party were innocent & that Mr Wilton & his people were drowned. During the Investigation the Chiefs were allowed to come in & out of the Room & although 200 mauries were within 50 yards of the house their conduct was so decorous that there was not the least noise or disturbance of any kind.

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A Chief called Tom Street 112 was accused by a white man with stealing two Blankets. Street said that he wanted them that he offered payment but as the man would not take it he took the blankets & did not intend to pay that the man had bought potatoes of him & had not paid & moreover owed him for trees he had cut down. The man said that he bought the trees of Gunnai Aboo & Charley & these said that Street had a share in them the two former only were present and although young men in reply said that they were "like a father" to him. A hoary savage twice as old as the pair. As there appeared to be a debtor & creditor view of the case Street was dismissed with a caution. All the Pachias were at loggerheads abusing each other They are a d----d set of Blackguards. The[y] wanted to swear affidavits against each other and to have actions &c &c. One man said that two others had gone to look for the bodies for the sake of what they could get & that they had the watch between them. We reached the ship at seven.

22nd In the morning went on shore. Found the Mauries just returning in their canoes. It blew very hard from the N. W. I took my gun & went into the bush to look for a pigeon could not find anything & returned. A Mauri who went with me gave the following description of the manner in which they used to take birds. A small hut just big enough for a man to lie down in is built of small sticks the front is sufficiently open to allow him the free use of his arms. A Decoy is fastened in front of the hut and the ground just disturbed, the Mauri amuses himself by breaking brittle twigs. The Birds seeing the decoy apparently scratching the ground and mistaking the cracking of the twigs for the working of his bill come down in great numbers & are seized by the back if on the Ground or by the legs if on the hut. This mode of trapping is practised at sun rise Kakas & Pigeons are usually taken. Saw a tame Kaka & some Paradise Ducklings but could not make a bargain for either the prices asked were so exorbitant. In the afternoon visited the only station we had not seen & so concluded our bussiness.

23rd At 5 A.M. fine breeze from the Southward but as soon as we were under way the wind became very baffling and as we were in stays off a dangerous rocky point died away altogether the breeze sprang up for a minute varying about six points we missed stays & then it again died away leaving us with a heavy swell setting right onto the rocks we attempted to wear & lowered the boat to assist but some clever fellow let it go by the run & away it 113 went headfirst fortunately sufficient wind came down the

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gully to save us just a flaw we paid off and then the Southernly wind came again & we made a clean bolt from our friendly rocks on which we could almost have jumped. At 20 minutes past five A.M. anchored off Kapati. Paid Te Roprehau a visit which frightened him out of his wits visited one or two whaling establishments & returned to the Ship at nine.

24th at 1/2 past six pulled away in the whale boat for Wykani. The first person we saw was Davis just on the point of leaving in a Canoe for Port Nicholson with a cargo of pigs & potatoes he went with us to the house of Mr Hatfield 114 the Missionary who welcomed us kindly an[d] gave us a breakfast of eggs and biscuit. I saw a poor fellow who had been shot through the leg a year before in the great fight. 115 All the bone from the knee down had worked out and in this state I found him lying under a blanket he begged me to cut off the leg but this was above my skill. He did not appear to be in any pain although his wound was dreadful to look at. I promissed Mr Hatfield to ask Fitzgerald 116 to go to see him & have no doubt the he will oblige me when he returns. Took my gun & walked up the river passing through some beautiful land the Natives were employed catching White Bait which the[y] took in mats in great numbers. Killed one wild Duck. About two returned to the Ship dined, took a fresh crew called at Evans's Island went on board the Lavinia and a small island and brought Mr Wakefield, Mr Bidwell 117 Mr Sinclair 118 & Mr ----- 119 who were in a small schooner waiting for an opportunity to go to Otaki & the Northward they left us about ten oclock.

(Marginal Note--good fishing snapper and others. Wykani is a small river with very little water over the Bar. The country very flat & fertile. The natives very numerous & busy planting potatoes and other vegetables. Saw a great quantity of wheat, barley, & oats - native produce.)

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25th At Eleven weighed for Mana the wind right in our teeth anchored at four in a tolerably sheltered place went on shore at Mana & saw Rangatiatera 120 the greatest savage I ever saw. He said that he did not care for the soldiers that we might kill him if we liked &c &c. Went to bed early.

26th Up at five. Pulled across to Pararua Mr Thomas had left for the Northward went to the station of the late Thomas Ellison but his widow being absent could not do anything. About nine sailed for the Sound reefed topsails & close hauled; in five hours & a half anchored in Ship Cove. Visited a pah & while the rest made confab went to look for a pigeon not finding any returned to the ship. From thence to the Place where Capt Cook had his observatory 121 , put up a couple of Ducks had not my gun but some of the soldiers who I had taken to give a run to started a bevey of pigs of which we caught one fairly running him down at dark returned to the ship.

27th Got up before sun rise in hopes of getting the ducks but the soldiers who pulled me on shore made such a noise that they went away without giving me a chance. Nothing could be more beautiful than the singing of the birds the whole bay seemed alive with them and when I first got up their music resembled that of thousands of little fiddles. Returned to the ship at seven but hearing some Mauries hunting pigs went on shore in a Canoe & joined them found a large pig at Bay the Mauries round him dancing & slapping themselves but neither they or their dog dared go in to him so I got a large stick & routed him out of his lair. After a severe hunt brought him to bay again in a place where I thought he could not escape but I was wrong the Mauries gave way & he rushed me into the sea for which I rewarded him by firing into his nose at ten paces distance had I not done this he would have ripped me. The chase now grew animated Toby stuck to him so close that I again fired to save him piggie took the water & was there captured I bought him for a blanket & brought him on board. At nine the wind being light left in the whale boat for Tawhite 122 which Mr Chaffers said was 16 miles. The views were most beautiful and the whole sound a succession of the most beautiful bays & harbours. When about half way Amos knocked up & I took his oar. At Two we arrived at our destination and the Whalers told us that the distance instead of being 16 was nearly thirty miles. Mr Murphys bussiness occupied him about two hours & then we returned. Fortunately we found

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the ship just at the head of Tory channel in a very snug bay or we should not have reached her untill long after dark the tide & wind being both against us. Capt Kettlewell had purchased a very pretty canoe about 16 feet long for which I exchanged my pig. Went to bed at nine.

(Marginal Note--The following day Amos a New Zealand Servant of Mr Murphy begged the loan of the canoe to go and fetch his brother but the day was too rough and the little thing was soon full of water he put back but coming on the weather side he capsized however he held on to the canoe & never left go untill he had made a rope fast round it he then climbed up by another.)

28th Worked out of the bay and proceeded down Tory channel to Tawhite intending to go out by the Southern entrance but the wind headed us & we were obliged to drop anchor having first got so nearly on shore that I actually threw a bit of biscuit over the nearest point of land. We landed at a lovely bay 123 about a mile further down where was the finest Mauri village I had yet seen. The first person I saw was my old friend Perere who had come over two days before from Port Nicholson. I was also recognised by many of the Natives who had visited me at the camp. Coming on to blow we hastened on board.

29th During the night it blew a very heavy gale we drifted on shore with two anchors down but in the morning it moderated enough for us to get off without sustaining any damage. In the afternoon Chaffers and myself landed at Tawhite & walked down to the above mentioned bay. The Natives were glad to see us & regaled us with Taro (a kind of luscious slimy root more like the Jerusalem Artichoke than any other vegetable) and potatoes. I bought a quantity of fishing hooks made of the Pawa shell a mat and a Hanni. 124 Returned on board at five. Still blowing very hard ship in an ugly place.

30th The Natives came off with Pigs potatoes & other trade but I was up late and lost an opportunity of making two purchases the one was a pair

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of Waka Wakas 125 or Wood Hens and the other a model of a canoe about four feet long & exceedingly well carved. The Waka Waka is about the size of a Bantam with a straight bill about an inch and an half long short thick legs & something the colour of a partridge. As soon as the flood tide made we weighed and just before dark anchored in Ship Cove.

31st Weighed at nine wind light & right in our teeth beat out of the Sound passing the "Brothers" 126 about two. The wind became fair & plenty of it off Cape Terawhitte 127 the sea was very heavy rolling in from the southward blowing a stiff breeze took in Top Gallant sails. When off Port Nicholson Heads took two reefs in the Main Topsail one in the foresail & clewed up the mainsail. Under the remaining sail we beat in (no bad work for a merchant vessel) and anchored at ten oclock.

(Marginal Note--As soon as we anchored I went on shore & having heard that some ships had arrived went to the post office for letters I got one from Fanny one from Daniel one from Sydney & one from Young. I find that at length they have given me Forage. Mr McFarlane has gone to Sydney a good riddance but rather a curious proceeding.)

1st November Blowing a heavy gale could not leave the ship untill four. Dined with Coll Wakefield & went on board at nine.

2nd Disembarked at Ten. As soon as we were landed it commenced raining & blowing from the Southward. The pigs have almost ruined my garden. Today since I landed one got in & finished the remains of my lettices.

3rd A stormy day. Worked in my garden.

4th Do. Do. Do.

5th A tolerably fine day. In the afternoon H. M. S. Favorite entered the port. As soon as I ascertained her to be a Man of War I got into the boat with the harbour master & went on board. Capt Dunlop has kindly brought me my baggage but no Nettle. Major Ryan 50th Regt & M. Bellini 128 passengers. Capt Dunlop & Major Ryan spent the evening with me.

6th Passed the day on board the Favorite.

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November

7th An American Brig came in from the Bay of Islands I got letters in one of which I saw the death of Tom Orme. Poor Fellow many were the happy days we spent together and a true friend was he but now he is gone and our little party who were aspirants to military fame will never more assemble to talk over our various adventures & service since the time of our separation.

8th To my great joy Nettle came in the American Brig.

13th The whole week has been one of continual idleness parties eating drinking and amusement. I have never been at home always either out dining or on board the Favorite and in return my Wharrey is the general rendezvous in the forenoon and the resort of all the Favorites. Some of them and M. Belligny I have been some time acquainted with. One day went to Petoni returning in a whale boat with Major Ryan the squalls were very heavy and the poor Major very nervous & frightened anxiously wishing me to capsize the boat but as I was not inclined to do this we arrived safe. Memo--Port Nicholson is the most dangerous place for boat Sailing I ever saw. The Favorite sails tomorrow at Daylight.

14th At seven the Eleanor came into the harbour and soon after a large ship 129 arrived with upwards of 280 Emigrants from Liverpool. She had been beating about for 10 days which speaks wonders in favour of Port Nicholson as a harbour "easy of access". The arrival of this vessel was a good excuse for the Favorite to remain another day which Capt Dunlop availed himself of to invite all the Ladies of Port Nich to visit his ship. Boats were sent for them at one I accompanied them. La how nice! Is she not clean? &c &c were expressions in the mouths of all. The Ladies were shewn round the ship one fired or rather imagined that she fired a Cannon with a ball in it. We had some luncheon & returned to the shore. In the evening some of the officers dined with us at the Club. We had a pleasant evening.

(Marginal Note--Arrived this day Ship Martha Ridgway from Liverpool with 282 poor deluded individuals and - the small Pox - Everybody went on board the mail was landed & then the sapients talked of Quarantine) 130

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15th The Favorite got under weigh and sailed at daylight. Strong breezes from the Northward after church Mr Daniel visited my Wharrey and was pleased to express herself pleased with its appearance & cleanliness.

16 Blowing heavily from the Northward. Dined with Mr Brown who had returned in the Essington from Angaroa.

17th Gale continues.

18th Blowing a hurricane tried to get to Petoni in a whale boat pulling five hands. Not being able to make head against the wind landed this side of Ki Whara Wharra and walked round. Returned by 1/2 past seven. In the Night the wind shifted to the southward & blew very heavily with much rain untill twelve on the

19th When the day cleared up. All the morning I was employed transplanting Cabbages &c. In the Afternoon went to examine the Immigrants who were landing from the Martha Ridgway. I see by the Gazette that two of the companies in our Regiment have been given out of it. If this is a punishment for the bad conduct of the men at Norfolk Island why not let it be notified to us & if not surely those who hold on in this colony should not be deprived of the advantage of rapid promotion the only recompence we receive for our worthy employment as convict drivers. India the West Indies and all other stations have their advantages and why deprive us of the only one we enjoy viz rapid promotion which is produced by the disgust with which so many view their situation in these colonies. I missed John Grant from the 62. At first I was alarmed but finally found him out in the 8th much to my delight.

24th I am getting horribly tired of Port Nicholson. The gales never cease and everything is at a stand. My little canoe was finished today & I went out in it with a Mauri when some distance from the land the outrigger broke the canoe filled and in spite of all our endeavours rolled over. Fortunately we were not far from a small vessel and we contrived to haul our frail craft along and make her fast to a boat astern of the aforesaid schooner. The Mauri remained to take care of the canoe whilst I went after the outrigger and paddle. As I was returning with one in each hand a whale boat pulled past but did not see me they went to the schooner and great was their astonishment when the Mauri pointed me out. Shoving off they soon came up with me and one of the men commenced hauling me out of the water with so much zeal that I was obliged to request him not to put himself in a hurry as I felt quite at home but should not object to get into the boat if he would first take

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the outrigger and paddle. My friend who appeared to think me a queer fish complied with my wishes. I was taken on board the Jane where my outrigger was mended and after taking a glass of grog I paddled on shore.

25th Blows hard. 1/2 past seven P.M. Wind chopped round to the S. E. Heavy rain.

28th A summers day at least the nearest approach to it except one that I have yet seen and moreover the Mauries promise another tomorrow I fear that I shall never make much of the Canoe. I went to the Brougham in her today but she leaks infernally. N. B. Not been well these last few days nothing the matter that I know of but altogether good for nothing. Garden will not get on the wind and want of rain do their utmost to destroy it and are diligently assisted by a large caterpillar who devours everything which they spare add to this Locusts are beginning to appear. The Caterpillar is worse behaved than those in Europe or at any rate in England he attacks all kinds of young plants by night and by day hides in the ground near their roots. Nor is there any lack of blow Flies fine large yellow fellows whose powers are so great that they can reanimate a piece of meat in a few minutes and will even partially succeed on the window glass. I have just thrown away a beautiful bird which these creatures destroyed. It was only given me last night and was not bearable when I went to skin it this morning.

29th As the Mauries predicted a very fine day. After church went for a walk in the bush and picked up some fine specimens of the Beetle tribe. In the evening amused myself by assorting them.

30th Muster day. Tolerably fine in the morning but in the afternoon commenced blowing from the Northward with rain. In the night chopped round to the Southward.

December 1st Heavy gales with rain from the southward closed my returns.

2nd More Moderate. In the afternoon walked up with Mr Daniel to their acre. They are building a nice house. By the way the six thousand acres of Land, the late discovery has dwindled into two, very little more than my first estimate 131 I hear that another wonderful discovery has been made by the Surveyors.

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Two vessels a large Ship and a Brig the latter from the Bay of Islands and the former from South America came in early in the morning. 132 I got a number of letters among which was the Bill of Lading of a box of Books sent me by Parry. He is always thinking of me. Dr Fitzgerald was a passenger and the account he gives of his voyages are amusing. 133 He left the Bay in the "Anna Watson" was ten days endeavouring to get into this port or Cloudy Bay and failing returned to the Bay of Islands. He then shipped in the Brig and had been fifteen days off the Port when a slant of wind brought him in. By the arrival of these two vessels flour is reduced to £20 pr Ton. Fitzgerald dined with me.

3rd Was ready at daylight to go with the Mauries to Wyderop 134 but the weather being doubtful they would not start. Employed the greater part of the day flooring my bedroom.

4th Weather again unfavourable. Breakfasted with Mr Brown. Went in a Canoe up Evans's Bay and from thence walked over a considerable tract of land with Alzdorf who dined with me. The Night before last upwards of 12'00 weight of Rays were taken in one haul in Evans's Bay besides Moki & other fish and the fishermen allowed as many to escape for fear of breaking their net.

8th Soon after sunrise Wyderop called me saying that the Mauries would start for Wyderop in a few minutes and begging me to make haste and get ready. This did not take long I took with me my Knapsack containing a shirt, pair of socks pair of trousers three pounds of Tobacco and five of Biscuit, a tooth brush sketch book pencil and towel I also had a compass my gun and powder and shot and a box containing fishhooks and pipes. We left Pepitea in three canoes the largest of which contained one of the inferior chiefs with most of the people the second Wyderop and his immediate adherents and the third Muturoea and his family with your humble servant seated in the Middle. The Morning was rather squally and at first I did not feel quite comfortable in my

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new position but by the time we were half across the bay the skill the Mauries evinced in the management of their sails quite reassured me. The wind continued to increase so we put into a little bay just outside the inner head 135 until it should moderate.

Our canoes were hauled up the contents taken out and carried up to our proposed camp where we cooked our breakfast consisting of potatoes when this was finished Muturoeas Canoe was launched and a party went to catch fish for dinner others were cleaning their guns and making fishing tackle the children were sent into the swamps and hills to collect the Nectar out of the flowers of the New Zealand flax which was presented to me in the shell of the Pawa or mutton fish called in England Venus's Ear. When the fisherman returned each man laid down a portion of what he had caught as an offering to the Pachia all which Mrs Muturoea "Ahinga" took possession of and as each man deposited at least a third of his sport and the fishermen were six or seven in number my pile of fish assumed a most formidable appearance far exceeding any of their's. In the afternoon I walked into Pepitea returning in the evening with the addition of Toby who was not to be found when I left in the morning, some salt and a Tomahawk. At our place of Encampment was a small Mauri hut not a great deal larger than a dog kennel this was appropriated to me and in it my bed was made of grass amd fern. In one corner a little fire was lighted and beside it rolled in my blanket I slept.

Marginal Note*--On our way we passed a dreary Lagoon 136 where I had frequently shot ducks. I had long determined that some fearful tradition must be attached to it nor was I wrong. My Companion Wharrepaupa told me that formerly a fearful beast lived there & devoured many people that it had four legs and was like a Monkey he said he had once seen a monkey at Taranachie. This monster one day caught an[d] devoured six men and then rushed into the sea. It has never been seen since. He warned me never to go there lest it should return.

9th At earliest dawn we arose. The morning was fine, the wind fair, and long before sun rise we had been to prayers for the Mauries commence and end every day by addressing the "God of the White Men" eaten our breakfast of fish and potatoes and were scudding over the waters. Under all sail the three canoes ran along side by side so close that we laughed and joked and handed our fire stick from one to the other. As the Sun rose in the heavens the wind became stronger and when off Orong Orong 137 the Mauries decided on putting in. This place is about half way to Wyderop. Wyderop was the first to cross the surf next followed the large canoe and

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lastly ours; as we approached one of the Mauri dogs jumped over board and swam towards some rocks on which the surf was breaking with tremendous force we all thought the poor animal would be dashed to pieces but to our great delight he percieved his danger changed his course and safely landed on the sandy beach. It was now our turn we took in our sail then paddled in a little further untill just outside the break of the surf in an instant the canoe was head to sea several heavy surfs rolled in and as soon as a lull offered away we went stern first like lightening hardly had we touched the beach before we were above high water mark for the Mauries who had already landed rushed into the water and bore our canoe along like a toy untill above the influence of the waters. Orong Orong is one of the stations of the Mauries of Pepitea and on the Sea beach are a few miserable huts the one which I was destined to occupy was nothing more than a roof and one side. Having cleared the Canoes we addressed ourselves to different occupations some went to the Potato Grounds and the Young men and myself wandered up the Valley in quest of game. We were not successful only bringing in one Wood Quest which was duly appropriated to me. The Valley was nothing remarkable not differing from the usual characteristics of a N. Z. Valley viz Narrow bounded by steep scrubby hills and watered by a fine stream. At sunset I dined on fish the above mentioned pigeon new potatoes fern root and Biscuit. The Night was very cold and it blew so hard that we could not keep in a fire.

10th Up at sunrise - blows too hard to proceed to Wyderop. After breakfast which Ahinga cooked for me I went to Wye Noue Omata 138 a fine valley I shot a brace of Teal. I much wished to proceed far up both these valleys but the Mauries would not go on account of the Nattakahoons I however ascertained their direction and the rise of their respective waters. The care the Mauries particularly Muturoea took of me was ridiculous his mat was always spread for me to sleep upon every Mauri delicacy was reserved for me and my food was always first cooked. Talk of hospitality go and learn it from a New Zealand Savage.

11th As had been determined the day before (the weather proving more moderate, Muturoea and I with about eighteen of the Young and able bodied men proceeded on our route about eight oclock. Wyderop was unwell and remained behind with the old men the women and children. The first few miles of our road was very bad over stones and rocks, we kept along the sea coast and now I found out the reason why the Mauries objected so much to travelling in windy weather. The cliffs were of a loose crumbling nature and even the little wind we had today brought

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down showers of earth and sand and occasionally large stones. We crossed the mouths of many pretty vallies in all of which were fine streams. Some of the Mauries who were in advance took the nest of a pair of Paradise Ducks the young ones were however killed before I saw them. In the evening we halted at Wharrepaupa 139 where we caught a couple of pigs. There was no house so we lay down in the bush. As soon as it was dark the young men went to catch Eels each carried a flambeau made of Kumira 140 a kind of vine which burns very freely and a club with which to strike the fish. They were not very successful.

12th We were all stirring at daylight. A walk of a couple of miles along a beautiful sandy beach brought us to the entrance of the valley of Wyderop. I shall not now stop to describe the country but proceed with my walk. Leaving the sea beach we followed the West bank of a large Lagoon 141 covered with wild Ducks at which I fired several shots, for the first mile the bank was a hard sand but soon became marshy. We now spread ourselves out and commenced hunting several small pigs were taken some alive and others were killed. At length the continued baying of the dogs assured us that their work had become too warm for them and that they needed assistance. Off we went through the swamp and bush as hard as our legs could carry us you would have thought we were so many madmen to have seen us tearing through the trees. Owing to some little change in the position of the combatants a Mauri boy & myself were the first to arrive and there sure enough was an immense black boar with tusks like an Elephant seated on his hind quarters with the dogs baying round him occasionally when one became more than usually annoying he would rise and scatter them like chaff I drew my Tomahawk and prepared to assist the dogs regardless of the Mauri boy who begged me to shoot him for if I went nearer he would certainly attack me but what use was it to fire a charge of Duck Shot against such a beast. Just then a little old bitch fastened on his lip but it was only for a second the poor thing was dashed to the ground with a frightful gash in her chest. Shaking himself the brute prepared to follow up his advantage giving me a most ferocious look a second dog distracted his attention not a moment could be lost I jumped over a fallen tree and putting the muzzle of my Gun within an inch of his head shot him just under the eye he made one violent attempt to charge and then fell to rise no more. By this time several Mauries had

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arrived one took the wounded dog on his shoulders and the others addressed themselves to butchering the pig. On such occasions their natural ferocity appears to break out their knives are too blunt to make any impression on the throat and are plunged into the belly from whence the entrails and bowels are violently dragged without regard to the screams and struggles of the tortured beast. On these occasions only have I ever seen a Mauri show any symptoms of cruelty. By the time we arrived at our halting place some miles up the valley we had taken seven pigs of various sizes. Near us were the remains of an old pah which had been erected at the time the Nattakahoons were driven from the valley. 142 At every turn one or other of the Mauries pointed out the place where some of his relations had fought their last and where according to his account they were entombed amidst heaps of slaughtered Nattakahoons. A Mauri brought me a curious bird which he assured me would live well on potatoes but alas too much kindness killed him and he eat himself to death. A young Oyster Catcher escaped into the bush. Six fresh duck Eggs were also brought I put them for safety in my cap but in the ardour of the chase forgetting they were there I ran head first against a tree.

We formed our camp and then proceeded up the valley hunting we caught three more pigs and guess my horror when I tell you that the ovens were heated and no less than seven of the ten were on our return prepared for supper. A Mauri oven deserves that a few lines should be devoted to it. A hole is dug in the ground which is filled with stones and fuel much in the manner of a lime kiln. When the wood is burned out and the stones sufficiently heated the food to be cooked is laid upon them and covered with mats made of the green flax over these are thrown a quantity of branches and leaves & the whole sprinkled with water lastly the oven is completed by being covered up closely with earth so that none of the steam can escape. The operation of cooking takes three or four hours and the meat thus dressed is not inferior to either a roast or boil.

The seven pigs being demolished and a light supper of a few dozen of Eels superadded we rolled ourselves in our blankets and were soon asleep. The night was very cold I awakened and made up the fire. In the morning when I awakened just before daybreak to my surprize I was warm & comfortable I looked up and there was Muturoea naked as the day he was

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born cowering over the fire. He must have seen me make up the fire and concluding that I was cold had stripped himself to cover me.

13th Sunday. We did not hunt. It was a day of rest for all. Yesterday "Apuni" came to his potato Grounds on the opposite side of the river. After divine service the young men went to get Eels for dinner. Never did I see such monsters as those they brought in. One that I measured was two arms in length and three spans round. Others were little smaller these were Baked in the oven and Roasted on sticks before the fire. Besides Pork and Eels our fare consisted of Pigeons ducks Ducklings, Kakas, Eggs and various berries & fruits with Potatoes Bread Biscuit and Tea Also Dried fish Crayfish and the Mutton fish. (Marginal Note--Fern root.) We lived like fighting cocks & the Mauries only dread was lest the Nattakahoons should visit us. And did they really come? Patience you shall hear. About midnight Muturoea shook me and as soon as I was awakened said Get up Te Beste. take you gun the Nattakahoons are down on us. I asked where. Killing Apuni and his people! hear that! I listened. It was a beautiful moonlight night and all was hushed and still I began to think that some hideous dream caused by too great a consumption of Pork & Eels had troubled Muturoea when the report of a Musquet rattled across the water presently another and another and soon the single shots increased to heavy volleys. I said Muturoea we must go and help Apuni? He answered follow me we must not stay in the wood the Nattakahoons will soon be down on us! He spoke a few words every fire was extinguished, we fired a few shots to let Apuni know that we were on the alert and then taking all our worldly goods we followed Muturoea through the wood at a sharp trot soon we came to an open piece of Ground with just flax enough on it to afford us shelter while all around was quite clear here we threw down our bundles and at Muturoeas command every man lay down. This rather surprized me I thought that we should have instantly gone to Apuni's rescue so I said are we not going Muturoea? Muturoea replied I shall send two scouts to see what is doing who will if Apuni needs help bring back a large Canoe and we will all go our canoe is too small. (In fact it would only hold two persons and was very leaky) He ordered an old Chief to go an[d] to take one of the young men but to my astonishment the old man (he was not so very old either) point blank refused. I thought Muturoea would have cut him down his tomahawk was in his hand so I jumped up and said Do not hurt him Muturoea! he is afraid and I will go with the young man. Instantly the whole band were on their feet and a formidable band they were, each man with his Musquet or double gun in his hand and his bright tomahawk in his belt. Eighteen active athletic fellows. One and all vowed that I should not leave them that in the hour of the fight they would die round me and every man was anxious to go as a Spy. Muturoea selected one gave them instructions and

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away they went. During the altercation our courageous friend sneaked away & we saw no more of him that night. I found that my gun was so dirty that a ball would not go home and that my shot belt had been left in the wood. I announced my intention of going back for it which Muturoea opposed but finding me obstinate insisted on accompanying me with some of the party we soon found it and returned.

(Marginal Note--Not wishing to trust to duckshot I drew my charge and endeavoured to substitute ball but my Gun was so dirty that I could not ram them more than half down. This would not do. I was fearful that they might burst my gun but in such a situation it was necessary to have a serviceable gun or none & I determined to fire it off. This caused a ridiculous scene the Mauries swore that we should all be Puckarooed as well as the gun and away they scuttled hiding themselves in the long flax. I took the precaution of firing my gun with a laniard and rejoice to say it did not burst. Even in our then present position the affair caused much mirth.)

The firing still continued sometimes in [volleys?] as if the contending parties were in Skirmishing order and at other times by platoons. I listened and listened untill I am ashamed to say the excitement began to wear off I was cold so I rolled myself in my blanket and some how or the other became oblivious. A little before dawn we heard the paddling of our scouts distant shots were occasionally heard and all was anxiety to hear the fate of our Petoni friends. They soon joined us each man bearing in his hand a huge piece of Pork of a filthy fatness this was given to Muturoea who selected a delicious morsel a solid lump of fat and hide some three inches square for me. The ambassadors commenced the narration of their travels and we learnt that the disturbance was nothing more than Apuni's young men skylarking. These young gentlemen finding the night pass heavily divided themselves into two bodies and commenced the skirmish which had caused us so much anxiety.

14th Before sunrise we were moving we returned to our old camp, breakfasted, and then went to hunt. During the day we killed many pigs and at length so satiated were our party that they cruelly murdered the wretched porkers only taking their hearts and livers. I saw much beautiful land and an immense Lake which reached miles up the valley. From a hill I took the Bearings of two hills whose bases were below the horizon they were on opposite sides of the apparently narrowest part of the valley and the difference of their bearings was 6 Degrs. I had now penetrated as far as my time would allow and could form some opinion as to the features and character of Wyderop which I shall now shortly describe. (Marginal Note--Wyderop is properly speaking the name of the Lake but is applied by the Mauries as a general name to the District.)

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Wyderop is situated at the bottom of Palliser Bay the ----- head of which bears and the headland to the ----- of Cape Palliser and ----- of Wyderop (this head shuts in Cape Palliser) bears from the mouth of the river. 143 The mouth of the river is a dangerous place and I am of opinion only navigable for small vessels or boats. The first remarkable feature is a sand bank which divides a large brackish lagoon from the sea the Mauries prefer beaching their canoes and pulling them over the bank at its Western extremity to entering the river. Around the Lagoon is a belt of swamp constantly subject to inundation either from freshes or from irruptions of the sea, next a belt of fine land then a belt of scrub immediately at the bottom and on the sides of the hills which are low, broken by little valleys running up to the main range these hills are poor near the sea but improve up the valley which may be on an average four or five miles wide. The waters now assume the form of a marshy river

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that of the land remaining the same untill actually at Wyderop (which I am of opinion is the Basin for the reception of the greater part of the Waters of the Tararua Hills) then the scene changes the Lake has a belt of flat and beautiful land then the hills rise clothed with Timber and beyond its head appears a level plain as far as the eye can reach. I could not ascertain from the Mauries where the valley terminated they said that the water went on and on & on from which I infer that it is of vast extent with a river running through it.

(Marginal Note--From a hill near the mouth of the valley the only visible hill of the Tararua range bore due north. A pass in the hills towards Port Nicholson which was immediately over Wyderop due west and the general direction of the Valley N. E. by N. Throughout the valley are occasional patches of fine wood but generally speaking it is clear & open. I do not suppose I was more than 10 miles up the valley.)

This valuable tract of country the Mauries wish to reserve as a place of retreat but they say they would have no objection to the flocks and herds of the Pachia running there and such white men as look after them may live there but they do not wish it to [be] taken for farms or Towns.

We returned to our place of Bivouac in the bush; on the way I shot some wild ducks.

15th At sun rise we set out on our return. I visited the mouth of the river which took me some four miles out of my way but came up with the party during the day our days walk was severe my shoes were worn out and all in holes. The Tide was high and in three places we waded through the sea above our middles. In one a surf knocked me down and I had some little difficulty in scrambling out. About Two hours before sundown we reached Orong Orong. And the Nattakahoons did not come.

16th Under way at sunrise the weather was threatening but I was anxious to get back. Three mauries accompanied me one carried my Eels but alas only two of the Ducks would bear carriage. We had not got three miles when it began to rain and poured Torrents our road was sometimes sand sometimes stones and for some distance over steep hills as slippery as glass where I kept tumbling down to the great delight of the Mauries. When we got to that part of the bay opposite Pepitea the grass and wood was so wet that we could not light a fire (my signal for a boat) so on we went at length we came to a place where a Mauri fishing party had established themselves but although they had three canoes they would not let us have one on any terms. On we went our road worse and worse wading up to our shoulders climbing over rock

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& stones and the mauries bulleying me because I could not travel quick. At Okivie 144 we got a canoe to Petoni which we reached wet and starved with hunger and cold after a twelve hours walk. The Mauries preferred going to the Pah & I got a change and something to eat at Mr Alzdorfs. The rest of the road about nine miles I took the Mauries over at a pace which astonished them. My shoes were good. I was gladly welcomed back by my fellows who had begun to think that "something had happened" and when seated in my wharri had the satisfaction of believing that I was the first white man who ever penetrated the Valley of Wyderop. 145

17th The whole of the day I was pestered by people anxious to know what I had seen among them were the Editor of the N. Z Gazette and the surveyor general to the Company I gave the former a verbal account of the general features and the appearance and as a matter of (sic) my description was grossly exaggerated but although my name did not appear in either case I took good care that a more correct report should be made in the next weeks paper. 146 To the surveyor I gave a small chart of the coast with the bearings of different points which I had taken but

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when I applied to him for it in order that I might insert the bearings in this journal it had been mislaid & could not be found. During the day I had various warm altercations with various members & landholders of the Company some of them insisted on their right to turn the Natives out of Wyderop and when I urged that it was not sold and that the Natives were not willing to part with it declared that that was no consequence have it they must &c. I told them that I considered such arguments as unworthy the character of Englishmen and that while I was here that I would oppose any attempt to oppress or deal unfairly with the Mauries to the utmost of my power (I would it were great). One gentleman thought that it was a pity that Capt Hobson had not an adviser who being aware of the power the Company had acquired in England would urge him to make this the seat of Govt as it might be of great importance to him hinting that if he did not that he would not long be Governor of New Zealand. My reply was that I thought Capt Hobson happy in not having an adviser who would council him to sacrafice his public Character to his private interest. During the time that I was with the Mauries they repeatedly said that they would have no objection to the Cattle of the Pachias being at Wyderop with such people as were necessary to look after them but that they would not like the Pachias to come to settle there in a body as they wished to keep it as a place of retreat for themselves. (Marginal Note--Wyderop is a corruption the real name being Wye re Roppa.)

In the afternoon Wyderop returned bringing me a present of Four Harboukir 147 two of which weighed nearly 1 cwt each and the others one about 30 & the other about 20 lb each. He also brought me a small pig.

During my absence the London arrived with Emigrants. 148

The weather continued tolerably fine untill Xmas day when I recd a Xmas box from Muturoea of two large fish and a sow in Pig.

28th Barque Blenheim arrived with a cargo of Bra Scots poor devils. 149 No news. One or two days before, the Catholic Bishop arrived with some of the Officers of the French Frigate from Angaroea. He is a gentlemanly man as are also the French Officers.

January 4th 1841. Walked down to Petoni. The weather has been the last few days very oppressive. On my road I heard that Apuni's Party had returned from Wyderop and that the cause of the disturbance was Wypero (read Grog) this was also the cause of more serious consequences for

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while under its influences they contrived to burn all their blankets and Firelocks. Lately the Pigs have been very troublesome in my garden but praised be Allah within the last three days Nettle has barked the legs of three. It was eleven oclock when I got home.

5th Plenty of rain. Occupied transplanting and planting. Afterwards wrote Journal which the Wyderop expedition had caused to fall into arrears. Davis the Missionary returned yesterday and today told me that the Taupo people had given up the meditated attack on Wanganui and had coalesced with some people from that part as well as Wykato in order to attack Wykani in about three months time. 150 I have passed over much of the little affairs of the Colony in the last fortnight. How at a Meeting of Landowners Mr Murphy was asked what he did there and told many disagreeable truths. How "That the Nuptual Knot was tied between Major Baker & Miss Morgan on the 25th and How a gentleman was seen at a late hour of the same Evng endeavouring with the assistance of a loaf of bread a Pat of butter & a frying pan to convert a pillow into a pancake. How that in a heavy gale the Brougham dragged with two anchors down & went foul of the London and how a man the size of a well grown sparrow would willingly have killed me for saying so.

6th Fine weather. Ground was consecrated today for a Roman Catholic burial yard. In the evening the two French Officers dined with me and the Bishop came in the Evg and took a glass of wine. I find that associating with the frenchmen has made me rub up my french again.

7th Our French friends returned to Angaroea and the Kate left for the Bay of Islands.

Some months ago when it was proposed to call this town "Durham" a sum of money had been subscribed to give various amusements to the lower classes and it was intended that a ball should conclude the day. Now all these doings were given up but not altogether forgotten for as I was going along the beach I was invited into Barratts and told that my presence was requested as one of a Committee to deliberate on the means of celebrating the 22nd Instant that being the day on which the first Emigrant ship entered Port Nich. After a stormy debate it was decided that in the morning there should be a Regatta, boat & canoe race Steeple or Hurdle race & Rifle Match and that there should be a Ball in the Evg but not exactly a Quality Ball. I was one of three Gentlemen deputed to request the attendance of the Ladies and was employed doing so on Thursday Friday & Saturday 7th, 8th, 9th & 10th. I also collected about 100£ for Prizes. These three days were heavenly if all N. Z. days were like

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them it would indeed be a delightful climate. On the 8th there was an attempt at a quality ball at Barretts but it was a failure the only Ladies who supported it being a Dairy woman & a Washerwoman with four others unknown. On the 8th a Barque arrived from Hobart Town she brings us news that the Celestials are being cruelly punished for their numerous misdemeanors. Serves them right. 151

10th Fine weather gone strong breezes from S. E. with rain.

11th The wind has drawn round to the Southward having gone round the compass during the night and the fine weather has returned. About three in the morning I heard great guns counting three. Fitzgerald also heard the same number I got up and asked the Sentry what the noise was who said that it was a ship firing guns outside I dispatched a constable to let Murphy know and then turned in again. I soon heard him go away in his boat. At nine oclock he returned having seen nothing and although I stood out that the noises were guns I was overruled and the learned decided that they were either subterranean noises or atmospheric phenomena. (Marginal Note--Guns turned out to be some Scotchmen firing a Cannon up the Hut.)

12th I had agreed to got to Petoni at nine with a party of Ladies and was just leaving my wharrey when Murphy came to say that a Mauri had been stealing and that when a Constable endeavoured to apprehend him another Mauri presented a double barrelled gun and threatened to shoot him. Murphy requested me to bring some of the soldiers. Knowing the influence I had with the mauries of these parts I merely took a couple of men and the sergeant. On arriving at the Pah 152 where the constable had been resisted I found that the thief had taken the bush but the man who had resisted his capture was there. Murphy ordered the two constables

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who were with us to take the man but they were without handcuffs and afraid so they took him by the arms and gently endeavoured to pull him along. Had they when he resisted dragged him violently off or knocked him down the matter would have ended but it was not so. Some of the fellows companions (the tribe were not of Port Nicholson but of Oharieu notorious for being the greatest ruffians and thieves in the straits) seeing his successful resistance ran to his rescue from amidst some bushes where they had been concealed, one made at the constable and endeavoured to run him through but I drew my sword and parried the thrust he then turned on me I again parried his blow and closed with him to prevent his doing further mischief and to avoid cutting him down. A Struggle ensued another Mauri came to his assistance and we all went down I was under most but my sword arm clear this was all right for the fellow was trying to shorten his spear and I fully determined to run him through should he succeed in doing so. (The spear was tipped with about six inches of steel.) Suddenly my sword was siezed from behind and at first from its being blunt I could not draw it through the fellows hand who held it but finally succeeded I was now free again and my first friend becoming troublesome I gave him a small prod in the breast to teach him better manners. The noise now increased my enemy struggled hard to get away a Tomahawk gleamed over my head but one of my Mauries caught the striker by the hair and ere the blow could descend had dragged him to the ground a second more and three bayonets were at the breasts of my three oponents but my men behaved admirably steadily obeying my order that no one should be hurt. I was now on my legs the Mauries disarmed and flying in every direction one fellow had in the scuffle pulled away my scabbard and tried to bolt with it but a musquet ball which slightly grazed his posterior made him drop it in quick time. In the mean time the brave and efficient Constables had allowed their prisoner to escape - and our only spoils were Two musquets one double barrelled gun one bill hook one Tomahawk one spear and one Hanni. I made several attempts to get close to them again but they escaped to the bush in fact I went alone in amongst the mob and they ran like sheep. I now joined the ladies and went to Petoni. In the Evg Atako 153 told me that his sister had met the Oharieu Natives crying through the bush for the loss of their arms. At Twelve I turned out all the men and marched out to the Pah in hopes of picking some of them up but there was not a soul in the Place.

13th Dispatched a messenger to Oharieu to say that if the thief and the man who opposed the constable were not given up that I would come down to them and destroy their Pah and Canoes at the same time I invited their Chief to a Koororoo promissing that he should be safe. All

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the chiefs at this end had a great meeting today they requested me to attend and then said that they now knew that I loved the Mauries for I had not killed the bad men when I could have killed them all and that they only regretted that they had not been with me to kill the man who raised a hand against me.

(Marginal Note--There was some disturbance with the Mauries at Petoni but they came up to Kororoo next day at [-----] all was right--cause of disturbance as usual, "The Constables...)

Our present position when acting against the Mauries is not that of officers acting against a civilised mob. Laws cannot be forced down the Mauries throat at the point of the bayonet such proceedings would entail hatred and distrust. Let them be persuaded of our good intentions and the wisdom of our laws and in time they will be quietly adopted but if it should be necessary to impress them with a sense of our power an example must be made which will be the Terror of the nation for years to come.

14th Our Messenger returned bringing in a quantity of goods stolen at various times and also two pigs as a "Hootoo" 154 or compensation they also promise to give up the men and the Chief will come in also. An opposition has been got up to our ball and races by some of the Kings of the Oi Polloi [Greek] 155 because they were not consulted. Go ahead plebs.

15th, 16th & 17th. Delightful weather everything as usual. Friday & Saturday went out to look for a reported ship of course there was none there. Played a game of Cricket.

20th. Capt Shuttleworth had invited a large party to a cold collation and dance on board his ship "London" the weather which had continued uncommonly fine up to twelve oclock thought that a little salt water would improve the ladies dresses and to ensure that result the wind began to huffle up from the N. W. By five oclock at which time the Londons boats came to fetch the parties from the shore it blew a fresh breeze but notwithstanding about Thirty ladies and twice as many gentlemen mustered on board. The arrangements were admirable the poop and quarter deck being covered in with awnings and sails and decorated with flags. In the cuddy was a really elegant cold dinner to which the ladies sat down about six oclock the gentlemen waiting on them and when they retired taking their places. About nine dancing commenced on the quarter deck our music was a harp & violin we kept at it untill past Twelve and then went to supper. By this time the gale had increased so much that we could

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not leave the ship and a second anchor was let go. After Supper we danced untill the ship began to drag with 80 fathoms of chain out and then it was necessary to take down the awnings & sails. We retired to the Cuddy amusing ourselves in various ways untill daylight. Some of the party went to sleep but the greater number of the gentlemen amused themselves by playing leap frog round the deck and tormenting those degenerate men who yielded to the influence of Somnus. At five "the Cubas" long boat was capsized and one of the mates drowned. At eight two cutters went on shore with some of the party but could not return so the remainder went to breakfast at nine. At Eleven the Govt Whale boat came alongside and I went off in her returned in an hour and took off two of the ladies. At night the gale chopped round to the southward & I learned afterwards that the "London" dragged with three anchors down. It blew and rained with great fury all night.

22nd The remains of the "London" Party came on shore this morning I was occupied all day making arrangements for our ball and most opportunely discovered a conveyance for the Ladies in the shape of an Amunition waggon with Tilt which we horsed with four bullocks. It rained all day and towards night blew again so that none of our sports could come off but our ball we determined not to be done out of. By Nine between seventy and eighty of the most respectable people in the place were assembled in Barretts large room. I was installed as on board the London M. C. & dancing commenced (Band, Piano violin flute) we kept it up untill five & then the weather being moderate walked home. At one time we had seven couple waltzing and the show of Ladies was generally creditable. 156

(Marginal note--Mary Taylor from Sydney. Surprize from Coast. Brougham 157 from Taranachie and coast.)

23rd Got up at ten; weather rather moderate. The boat race was well contested, the rifles shot disgracefully but the Hurdle race was the grand attraction of the day. One of the riders having displayed the white feather I was requested to take his place. Six horses started the riders in all sorts of costumes. Heats one mile six four-feet hurdles and one ditch. At the first leap one horse bolted and threw his rider a second ran right away at the ditch I got two falls but after flogging and spurring for a quarter of an hour eventually got over. In the meantime another rider recd his dismissal and his horse ran away so that out of the whole number only three were eligible for the next heat. Second heat my Nag only refused the

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ditch once and the same horse who had won the first won the second heat and so the race ended. After the race went home and at eight went to bed thoroughly tired. The following are the costumes of the riders.

1st Hat, shirtsleeves, breeches and Gaiters.
2nd Hat, Silk racing Jacket breeches & Gaiters.
3rd Cap, Jersey shirt, fustian Trousers.
4th Cap, Striped shirt and plaid waistcoat & Trousers.
5th Straw hat, fustian Trousers and blue Shirt.
6th Cap, Cloth Trousers strapped with leather Striped blue shirt.

24th Sunday. Blows very hard. In the Afternoon boarded the Brougham. (Marginal note--Barque Brougham arrived from Wanganui and Taranaki.)

25th The day has arrived for the popular fete in contra distinction to the Wellington fete as that which was set on foot by the more respectable portion of the community was called. A Regatta and pulling match were well contested, the soaped pig would not run, the Greasy pole caused infinite satisfaction, the Rifle match was won by a Kentuckian. 158 The Hurdle race was very good; a horse was to be entered for me to ride which would not jump but the owner backed out. He then requested me to follow the running horses round but the beast would not jump atall I spared neither whip or spur and only gave up (after forcing it through the fence) from motives of humanity for the brute would have rather have been flogged to death than jump. It was a dreadful night & I was very unwell. I do not know how the popular ball went off. 159

26th The Slanes Castle arrived with Emigrants & the St Marie from Angaroa. The only news by the former is that an infamous coalition has been formed by Lord Palmerston with Prussia Austria & Russia against France and that an expedition has left Gibralter for the coast of Syria.

27th Exceedingly unwell and remained so for the next three or four days.

31st Sunday. Considerably better. The Barque Regia came into harbour followed by the Chelydra and a Schooner. I was dining with Colonel Wakefield when a letter from Major Bunbury ordering me to the seat of Govt was put into my hands. I need not say that the delight my long expected recall gave me was by no means lessened by its delay.

1st Febry All Wellington in a ferment. The atrocious Capt Hobson has

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not only sanctioned the withdrawal of the troops but has actually had the audacity to direct the Police Magistrate to engage for Govt some of the unemployed mechanics. I did not embark until the 12th and we sailed on the 20th . During the intervening time the good people of Port Nich were busy holding meetings to petition the Queen to remove Capt Hobson from the Office of Lieut Governor and to redress their wrongs I am not sure that they did not also memorialize Sir George Gipps. At any rate I know that some parties thought that Mr Murphy (formerly) their much beloved Magistrate ought also to be punished as the tool of a Tyrant; while the Press teemed with the most violent and blackguard abuse of the Govnr & Colonial Secretary. Even the poor Soldiers did not escape it being hinted that they were bribed to induce the people to migrate to -- Van Diemans Land. Be that as it may some 50 left for that country and about 30 accompanied us to Auckland. 160

21st Weighed anchor at 4 A.M. blowing strong held on all day. At Night became very sick about ten wind chopped round to S. E.

22nd In bed all day. Blowing very hard with a heavy sea. At Night close reefed fore & Topsails and reefed foresail.

23rd Got up at six A. M. Off East Cape. Weather a little better.

24th Towards the afternoon winds baffling. Quite got over sea sickness.

25th Wind fair & light under all sail. In the evening we made the entrance of the Gulf of Hourake and having got the bearings of the Barrier and some smaller Islands continued creeping on during the Night.

26th I was awake by daylight but as the weather was very thick and the rain heavy I turned round to sleep untill it should become fair. By eight the rain ceased and I came on deck from whence to my great delight I could see miles of nearly level land stretching in every direction. At this unusual sight all the passengers exclaimed delightful, lovely country &c. while myself and an intelligent french gentleman amused ourselves in speculating on our change of opinion from the time when a level country nearly devoid of trees would have been pronounced flat dreary & uninteresting. Under easy sail we at length reached Wye-te-mate the site of Auckland the proposed capital of New Zealand which is at present in the most extreme stage of infancy. The Positions of Govt House which is not yet finished and of the Barracks are well chosen. 161 As soon as the Anchor was let go I went on shore to report myself and

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met many of my old friends & among them Shortland and Smart. The Soldiers were all converted into workmen some in Huts some in tents. I dined on board and came off in the Evg for an hour then went on board again.

27th Was up at 1/2 past five commenced disembarking at eight but having only one Whale boat did not finish untill three I then took up my abode in a Tent. Dined at Mess. Spent the evening with Smart & Shortland and at 12 oclock turned into my bed for the first time since leaving Sydney.

28th After Muster took a walk to look about me & was well pleased with what I saw. All fern land and no trees.

1st March As there was only one other Officer at the Camp I took my Tour of weekly duty which confined me to the Camp during the remainder of the week. This is very nasty soldiering no parades drills or anything that is consonant with a military life but instead of these a party of dirty fellows dragging carts of great stones for building foundations &c others working as Carpenters others again as Blacksmiths and all the Barrack lumbered up with stones, lime, handcarts and other filth. The Major building mad and our doctor with the disinterested feeling usual to Scotchmen always grumbling because the Mess house did not get on quicker that being in fact the only building in any state of forwardness while the men were all in Tents and he living in a comfortable Rapoo Hut.

7th After Church walked with Duvauchelle 162 to the Top of a hill called in Mauri Monga Wa 163 which has been rendered in English Mount Eden. (Marginal Note--'The view from the Top of Monga Wa is very extensive comprising the Districts of Wai te mata - the Thames - Manacou & Kaipara.) Monga Wa is an extinct Volcano with a very perfect Crater but the most remarkable feature in the whole hill is the manner in which it is scarped or cut into Terraces some are of opinion that this is natural but my impression is that it is a work of the Mauris

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themselves and is probably a fortification; an old wall at the bottom of the mount & some conversation I had the next day with some mauris served to confirm me in my opinion. Should I be correct in my surmises it then follows that the mauris were once a far more numerous race than at present and in fact since the arrival of white men in this country we have the testimony of many credible witnesses to that effect these however are not wanting go where you will enter any Pah and there contrary to the laws of nature you will find the Adults greatly outnumbering the children. I fear that only one inference and that a melancholy one can be deduced from this. The Mauris are a doomed race. 164

8th About seven Duvauchelle and I took first our Blankets, Packs and Guns and then the Road for Manacao. The distance is about ten miles and the track good over a level Fern country we passed the base of one or two hills Terraced in the same manner as is Monga Wa. We had intended going to the abode of an old chief called Te Cowou 165 but he being from home Te Wirri Wirri 166 entertained us at his house. When we fell in with him he was breakfasting in his garden or potato ground and seeing a Stranger (I was some distance in front) invited me to eat. In the course of the conversation which ensued he told me that Te Cowou was from home & that I must go to his house which we did after having been regaled with Potatoes boil'd Quashes & water melons. At his Wharre which was very large and well built with a fine Verandah I found a party of Wycato Natives who had come up with a canoe load of Pigs and Wirri Wirri having given us in charge to them returned to his garden. Our Guns procured us a plentiful supply of Sand pipers which were just then in excellent order the Mauris adding potatoes &c. Late in the Evening their Chief arrived by name Na Kete 167 and by the time we laid

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down under the Verandah to sleep we were such good friends that he not only invited me to visit him but promised to send his son & a Canoe to fetch me. He lives on the Wykato about two days journey from Manacaou. I murder the orthography of these Mauri words or names shamefully.

9th Awakened at daylight tried to shoot a few more sandpipers to take back with me could not get a shot but spying a Shark in the shallow water waded up to him and emptied both barrells into his body. The brute did not mind it much. Parting from our new friends we took the road homewards regaling ourselves by the way with a succession of Water Melons. The day was intensely hot. We reach the Camp at one. I must see more of Manacou.

12th The Governor arrived from the Bay of Islands in the Govt Brig Victoria.

13th The Governor landed & was recd by a Guard of Honor 168 he looked well. The Chelydra sailed for the Bay of Islands.

15th Week of Duty commences.

16th 17th 18th Fished every afternoon killed on the whole 25 brace of Snapper.

19th Poor Toby fell over a cliff whilst hunting Rats & was killed. Poor Beast he had been with me many a day & travelled many a mile. Dined with the Surveyor General Mr Felton Mathew.

21st Occupied in the morning after church writing Officials. In the afternoon the weather which had been most delightful ever since I arrived changed and in the night it blew fresh raining very heavily. I was almost washed out of my tent. On the 20th Dr Dieffenbach 169 arrived over land from the Bay of Islands via the Kipara and about the 1st of April we propose visiting the Wai Kato making an excursion of about three weeks.

22nd Tolerably fine. Exchanged duty with Capt Lockhart so as to have time for my Trip so I am on duty this week.

I continued on duty untill the 31st of March employing the 29th and 30th in making the necessary arrangements for our expedition; during the

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time which intervened H. M. S. Favorite arrived with Lady Franklin 170 on board. On the 30th Engaged four Mauries at two Pounds a month (with clothes and food) per man and our tent being nearly finished got all in readiness to take our departure on the following day.

31st After Muster went to Dieffenbach who told me that our boys had all run away the fact was as we afterwards found that they had been seduced from our service by one of the Jew dealers this much delayed our departure I went to Capt Hobson who with his usual kindness no sooner heard of our dilemma than he placed at our disposal a Pack horse and driver; by twelve our Tent was brought home and all ready for the

Start

The Pack horse was taken to Dieffenbachs house where we loaded him with the various articles which had been provided for our comfort and to serve as payment to the various Mauries whom it would be necessary to employ during our progress through the country these consisted of Salted Meat, Biscuit, flour, Tea, Sugar, Tobacco, pipes, Blankets, shirts, Trousers, the Tent an Iron pot, some pieces of printed Calico and sundry other little articles I also took my Gun powder & shot Fishing hooks and a fine a Tinder box two pair of shoes and my knapsack filled with shirts, Trousers and other clothing, a Telescope nor did I forget pencils and a journal Book. Our horse being loaded the first thing the blundering Irishman who led him thought proper to do was to lead him through a bog in which he fell and all our goods rolled in the mud. The beast not being hurt was soon reloaded we called in the Camp to wish our friends adieu and then continued our route to Manakao where Capt Symonds 171 had promissed to engage a Canoe to convey us over the bay. It was now evening so we pitched our tent at Onehunga the same place where I had previously stopped. On our route our load again fell down but as I had taken the precaution to have a couple of my men along with us it caused little delay. We Met Messrs Smart & Shortland returning from a ride who wishing all success trotted home.

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April 1st We rose with the earliest dawn enquiring for the Chief who had engaged to convey us down the Harbour. He we found was absent and the people where we slept would not furnish us with a Canoe except at a most exhorbitant price. Determined not to be imposed upon we detained the horse untill the tide should serve for us to walk round to the Northern head of the harbour but in the interim the Chief arrived and took us in a Canoe to his place at Rangi-hau-Whia which we no sooner reached than we found that he was little better than the others and had merely brought us away from Onehunga that he might the better impose upon us pretending that the tide would not serve that day &c &c. For that day we had no resource but submission to our fate determining on the morrow that one should walk round to Capt Symond's Station 172 and endeavour to procure a boat unless we found the fellow rather more tractable.

2nd In the morning finding that we resolved to lose no more time for want of a little exertion a Canoe was produced for a passage in which four blankets was modestly demanded this imposition we resisted and at length we agreed for two and even this was a most enormous price for the distance we had to go but imposition appeared to be the order of the day. Early in the day we reached Hau Whitu 173 on the southern side of the harbour near the South head where we called at the house of a person named Foley by the direction of Capt Symonds. He & his wife had just locked their door previously to leaving for the opposite side where they intended living in future but on my announcing myself they returned. We endeavoured in vain to procure Mauries to carry our baggage as far as Wai Kato which place we were anxious to reach in time to be present at the meeting of the Missionary Natives of that part of the Country. Fortunately a Party where at Hau Whitu from the Wai Pa to which place they were about returning and they for the trifling consideration of £2. 16 agreeded to transport our baggage as far as a place on the Wai Kato about four miles from where we were to join Capt Symonds provided one of us accompanied it. Both of us wishing to go by land the question was decided by lot which Dieffenbach won & immediately started for Wai Kato a walk of thirty miles accompanied by Foley. Our Canoe was soon loaded we retraced our steps some distance and then turned away to the Southward we reached a place called "Te Karaka" only remarkable for want of fresh water and abundance of rats two of which I shot in hopes that they were indigenous but they turned out to be the common Norway rat. We cooked our supper and slept in an open shed.

3rd Resumed our route at daylight passing the houses of one or two white men the country especially to the Westward seeming tolerably

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good. At Eleven reached the Portage at Te Rua-ou-kou 174 where we dined on some birds I had shot by the way. The people then prepared to carry the things over the Portage requesting me to remain and look out whilst they were away lest the things should be stolen. What said I will the Mauries about here steal from you? O yes answered one we steal from each other very often! Here he was reminded that all the Mauries about there were Missionaries which dissipated the fears of my party who were all "Devils" (a term to be explained hereafter) I was not so easily satisfied and remained untill the last of the packages were safely away. At Purra Purra 175 a canoe ought to have been waiting for us but the "Awa Roa" was so low that it could not come up here we halted for the night. The distance from Te Rua-ou-Kou to Purra-Purra I estimated to be 1 1/2 miles but am since informed that it is only 1 1/3 by the Chain. The country on each side as far as can be seen is covered with fern & has a good appearance. There are no hills of considerable height to be crossed in fact the Mauries occasionally haul their canoes over.

4th In the morning walked to Koti Koti which place is situated on the edge of a bush consisting principally of Kikatea & extending nearly to the Wai Kato. The road lay through a nasty swamp of large extent. The tide affects the Awa Roa as high as Koti Koti where a dam is thrown across the stream inside the dam was our Canoe in charge of three Mauries. The Party made a second trip to fetch the rest of the Baggage there being too much for one load and then employed themselves putting their Canoe in order. In the Evening I shot a pair of Kookoos and by moonlight a pair of Owls. 176 About ten a canoe arrived which had been sent by Dieffenbach to the appointed place on the Wai Kato but not finding me there her people had come on.

5th As soon as the tide served started in my canoe having first paid my old companions the stipulated sum. The first half mile the stream was so low and incumbered by logs and snags that the Mauries were compelled to get out and drag her along through deep mud. I met no less than nine large canoes returning from the meeting two of them conveying the Officers of the Favorite and some others who had been to the meeting which they informed me was all over and wishing each other respectively good luck we pursued our different routes. On my way down the Awa Roa I killed a "Kookoo" and on the Wai Kato a duck proceeding down this river about six miles I came to Maraitai a

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mission station the residence of Mr Mansell & Mr Ashwell 177 Here I soon found Dieffenbach who I found had reached Wai Kato the morning after he left me and to him I consigned my owls which he gladly accepted & skinned. Symonds and two of the Mounted Police were also waiting for my arrival. I was invited by Mr Mansell to take up my abode in his house and dined with that gentleman preferring to sleep in the Tent. Most of the Mauries had taken their departure before my arrival I understand that between two & three thousand were present at the meeting that there was some good speaking and an incredible quantity of food consumed, the most remarkable dish being a canoe full of Flour & water sweetened with Sugar.

6th Early turn out - I went down to a stream to wash and imagine my delight when I saw a small herd of Cows driven into a little stockyard bailed up and milked all by a mauri lad. This was the strongest sign of civilization I had yet seen among them. We breakfasted with Mr Ashwell and at 10 oclock struck tents and took the road for Kawia escorted by a Chief of that place called Narere and a party of 66 Mauries nearly twenty of whom were engaged to carry the Baggage of the Party now consisting of Capt Symonds, Dr Dieffenbach, Myself and a corporal and Private of the Mounted Police. Our road lay over finely wooded hills and sandy beaches. Towards the middle of the day I got a ducking in the following manner I shot a sea bird which fell in the water wading in to pick it up I was suddenly over head in a place where there happened to be a strong under tow. It required all my piscatory powers to regain the Land again. We found a few specimens of Coal and Dr Dieffenbach procured some specimens of Limestone of which there was considerable quantities in the cliffs whilst Pharmoe abounded on the beach. (Marginal Note--Passed a tree Tabooed because a Mauri had hanged himself on it I forget the cause of this act but find on enquiry that suicide is common amongst them.) We encamped at ----- having travelled from ten to twelve miles.

7th Our route still continued along the sea beach and over the cliffs with some fine vallies on our left. We passed through one pretty wood where was a potato garden with a little chapel in the middle here the party halted and while the Potatoes were roasting captured some beetles and a fine Lizard in a Puridi 178 tree. The weather was threatening but no rain fell untill our Tents were pitched at Wai Karora when it began with a will. Days work about 15 miles and our two days course S. E. by S. The Water at Wa Karora was very bad.

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8th Heavy rain all night and all the Morning about twelve the weather cleared and at four struck Tents walking untill seven when we passed a small Fortified Pah and encamped a few hundred yards from it by two small Mauri Houses. Night brought us some relief from the Sand Flies which had been very troublesome during the day. Wood was scarce.

9th Moved at nine crossing the hills by the sea side and having on our left some very fine country devoid of hills of any great elevation. At Oudu-Eka 179 which we reached at 1/2 past two our Party insisted on stopping no persuasions would move them as a feast had been prepared in honor of our visit. At four finding that the Mauries were still eating we pitched our Tents. This little place would make a beautiful farm, the soil is exceedingly rich indeed during the last two days the general appearance of the country has been good. Dieffenbach got a Native rat and I procured a few Beetles. In the Evening we held a drawingroom in our Tent which was attended by four of the prettiest Mauri Girls I had ever seen. I do not hesitate to say that in an English Ballroom they would have caused the belle much uneasiness and I question if that lady would not be compelled to yield the palm especially in point of Figure. The Mauri beauties are remarkable for Fine eyes, Magnificent Teeth, a Forehead which is faultless and frequently add a fine head of hair good mouth a sweet expression of countenance and a form that a Venus would be proud of. Of the Nose I can say nothing.

10th Struck Tents at 9 oclock route as usual. Dieffenbach found some Boulder stones of fine Limestone at the mouth of a small stream and also pointed out a large dyke of Whinstone breaking through a Sandstone cliff. We procured Specimens of the Katipo a Spider held in great awe by the Mauries it is an ugly insect with a round black body about the size of a pea its bite is said to be venomous producing a total prostration of strength frequently terminating in death I secured half a dozen in a tin Box. At 1/2 past 12 reached Wainga Roa 180 a small Harbour surrounded by beautiful land. Here we pitched our Tents our Party having decided on remaining over Sunday. On our Road we had found a few Fossil shells. Dieffenbach soon discovered a considerable quantity of Limestone and continuing his researches after dinner ascertained that the basin of the Harbour was formed of that stone that it was of fine quality and contained fossil Arteriae, Chryphites, Astriae and Serpulae 181 it was more or less chrys-

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talized and traversed by veins of Kalkispar and Quartz. In places it was stratified with sandstone. In the vicinity were Whinstone rocks containing Olivine. The land on the Northern side was very fine that on the southern no[t] so good; a ferrugenous Sandstone prevailing. At the head of the harbour the limestone is overlaid by a blueish Marl and here were inland cliffs formed by the action of water. Recd a present of Goat Mutton, Eggs, Milk and Butter.

11th Examined the Harbour in a boat lent us by Mrs Wallis the wife of the resident Missionary. He is a Wesleyan and is now absent.

12th Crossed the Harbour about 10. In consequence of several murders which had been committed among the Mauries some of the Chiefs had written to Capt Hobson expressing their wish to stop such proceedings for the future and requesting his assistance. This application and the usual question concerning the land compelled Capt Symonds to convene a meeting of the Mauries. Dh & myself endeavoured to reach the summit of Woody Head (Karreowe) 182 but failed for want of time. Having taken a luncheon of Tainted Pork with Mrs Wallis continued our route about five miles and camped in a Wood. The result of Capt Symonds interview with the Chiefs was that they determined in any case of Murder or other heinous crime among their tribe to secure and deliver the offender up to justice. They also expressed themselves satisfied with the intentions of the Govt regarding the Land. The Principal advocate for British law was William Wai Ti 183 a baptized Native.

The Harbour of Wainga Roa is not easy of access there are three fathoms of Water on the Bar and a nasty spit is inside. However the Magnet a Barque of 150 Tons has been in. Entrance W. by S. Mrs Wallis kindly supplied us with Soap Oil and a few other Trifles we were in need of. There are about six White men resident among others a Mr Morant 184 who has long been in the service of the Wesleyan Mission.

13th Got up at sunrise and bagged a "Kookoo". Mr Morant joined us at breakfast bringing with him two horses on which we all rode in turn. The Mauries have cleared about ten miles of Bridle road from Wainga Roa for which they were paid by Mr Wallis. It would be well if all the Missionaries did as much for the country. His expense was very Trifling. At 12 reached Aotea where we were kindly welcomed by Mr Turton a

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member of the Wesleyan Mission he pressed us to stay with him an invitation which we would have accepted with pleasure had our time permitted it. Mr Turton is a young man lately arrived in the country and is married to a lady who accompanied him from England I believe that he was educated for the church at any rate I am sure from his appearance & address that he was never a Carpenter or Stonemason. After Capt Symonds had concluded an interview with the Mauries similar to that at Wainga Roa and with equal success we crossed the Harbour in Mr Turtons Boat and walked over the hills to Kawia where we arrived long after dark. We expected the Mauries to follow but were disappointed.

We put up at the house of Mr ----- 185 who was the most respectable settler in the place. Immediately after we were housed it began to rain heavily. The country between Aotea & Kawia is much cultivated by the Mauries. Aotea is little known as a harbour the entrance is to the S. S. W. and very intricate but possibly navigable for a vessel of 50 or 60 Tons. (Marginal Note--It is proper to mention that there is a small grove of Kauri trees close to this harbour up one of the small streams which falls into it. It is tabooed and supposed to be the most southern spot on which the Kauri grows.)

14th Rained nearly the whole day nevertheless contrived to visit an old Pah the scene of Te Roprehau's defeat on this occasion in a little cave or to speak more properly in a hole in the bank immediately under the Pah amidst the roots of an old Tree 70 Mauries concealed themselves but being quickly discovered by the victors were all cruelly murdered in cold blood. 186 We also saw a Stone said to be part of the canoe in which the Ancestor of the Mauries came from an Island to the Eastward called Te-Wai-he the name of the stone is Ti Nue. 187 The cave and stone are both Tabooed. Kawia can boast of nearly a dozen white Inhabitants the greater part of whom are a lawless drunken set. One was concerned in the Massacre perpetrated by Te Roprehau in the Middle Island. 188 I have never been able to obtain a well authenticated account

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of this disgraceful bussiness but the following is a brief outline. Te Roprehau engaged the Schooner - commanded by Mr ----- to convey him and a chosen party to-in the Middle Island. On their arrival there Mr ----- enticed the whole tribe which was small on board where they were murdered by Te Roprehau and his party who had laid perdu awaiting the favorable moment. It is said that some were reserved to give zest to the feast held on his return in honor of his success. I am informed that shortly after this atrocious act the vessel was lost that the Capt died in misery and that nothing ever prospered with any white men concerned in it. 189 I can answer for one. The Police expected to have taken here a notorious character a runaway convict but although two special constables had been sworn to apprehend him and a warrant given them he remained untill a few hours of our arrival in Kawhia in fact the night before he had been drinking all night with one who had not the will to secure him. The other was anxious that he should be taken but afraid to try himself. Capt Symonds held a court at which one of them said that it was a shame for the Governor to send Constables among so quiet a set of men. (Marginal Note--Smith had got a Mauri and dressed him up in his clothes in order to deceive the Police the result was that one of them snapped his Carbine at him fortunately it only burned priming or the fellow must have been killed. 190) I find in

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my note book the word Murders but do not reccollect anything remarkable connected with them several had been perpetrated but the chiefs on being spoken to expressed sentiments similar to those of the Chiefs of Wainga Roa and Aotea. 191 One Chief from beyond the Wai Pa expressed his firm determination to suppress murders in future and declared that on his return he would communicate his resolution to his people. As it happened he afterwards travelled with us.

15th A Fine day the Mauries arrived with the baggage and recd a payment of a Shirt or Trousers and some Tobacco each. Those Women who carried got a Gown. Strange to say the women make better porters than the men. Capt Symonds crossed to the Mission Station where he remained with Mr Whitely who also invited us but we preferred our then present quarters.

16th Went in search of hot springs said to exist between the heads of Kawia & A'Otea just below high water mark. We did not succeed in finding them although we came to a place where there was a strong smell of Sulphur which Dh supposed to be produced by the decomposition of a bed of Iron Pyrites by salt water. Continued our walk to A'Otea returning overland.

17th Puddled about in the Mud examining the Harbour. We found rocks of Bassaltic Lava with Olivine and an Amygdoloidal Basalt with its cells filled with Carbonate of Lime: Also of Limestone containing fossils of Gigantic Oysters and Chryphitae. The Harbour is full of Mud Flats its Entrance to the S. E. by E. with 2 1/2 fathoms on the Bar at low water. I believe the N. Z. C. Ship Tory was in. 192

(Marginal Note--About this time wrote to Major Bunbury requesting an extension of my leave of absence untill the 31st of May.)

18th Sunday. Rained nearly all day.

19th Tide did not serve prepared to start early next day.

20th Left the house of Mr Lethorp for the upper end of the harbour

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about nine; it was very squally and a sea on which greatly discomposed Dh. The Canoe was half full of water and kept three of us continually baling. We proceeded about live miles up the "Oparau" where we pitched our Tents all our Mauries not being up. There were a new party found by Te Warru 193 who engaged to take us to Otawou. 194 A Brother of Mr ----- 195 accompanied us. Te Warru amused us with accounts of the Kakapo 196 a species of Kiwi Kiwi as large as a Turkey and of the Moia a species of Ostrich supposed to be extinct. Both these birds are said by some to exist in the Middle Island. From the same authority we learned that the Wai Kato rises in the Tonga Redo passing through Taupo. The Sand Flies have made me a very sore leg. The Land about Kawia is generally good and I have no doubt that there are many thousand acres into which the plough might be put at a trifling expense. The name of the place where we halted is Opi.

21st Weather still Squally with rain. With considerable difficulty we persuaded the Mauries to start these people have a great dislike to travelling in wet weather and our people urged as an excuse for delay that they were too few to carry our loads this was not the case and we saw plainly that it was necessary to be determined unless we intended for the remainder of the journney to be completely at their mercy. Each of us took something to carry a box of tea & sugar weighing about 20 lbs falling to my lot this with my gun &c made a very fair load. Our next proceeding was to light a large fire declaring that we would burn the articles of Trade and travel alone. The Mauries laughed at our threat but a bag of rice thrown into the fire brought them to their senses. Te Warru instantly dragged it out and the others took up their loads without a word. The road was very rough and slippery leading over the Mountain of Perongea 197 which we ascended about half way halting at a place known to the Pachias as the "Hollow Tree" Native name "Te Rura Tangata". 198 There were two other roads over the plains to the Wai Pa but we preferred taking the Mountain road in order to get a better view of the country. We found difficulty in procuring dry wood although we were in the middle of a Forest we cut a few chips out of the hollow Tree but such was the superstition of the Mauries that we could not use them to light our Fire the tree being

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sacred because it served for a Wharri. I do not know if I have before mentioned that nothing will induce a Mauri to eat of food which has been cooked with wood previously part of a house or fence. Such food is sacred and a Mauri partaking of it would infallibly fall sick perhaps unto death. Towards evening it began to to rain heavily with Thunder and Lightening it blew a hurricane and we were in momentary expectation that an old tree close by would fall and smash our tents.

22nd The rain has not in the least abated. Ah says Dh what a fortunate thing it is that I dug a good ditch round the tent. The words were not out of his mouth when in came a wave about three inches deep flooding us completely we jumped up to ascertain the cause of this intrusion when Lo! the ditch which should have prevented such accidents bore to our astonished eyes a very small scratch in the ground made by a Tenpenny Nail. Symonds & Mr ----- 199 were so disgusted at the soaking they had got they determined to go on to a white mans house on the Wai Pa in spite of the rain which fell in Torrents. Dh and myself resolved not to lose our view from the Top of the mountain but to wait untill the weather cleared which it did in the afternoon. It was now too late to move besides which all the Mauries had gone to their Potato grounds promissing to return the next morning early so we made a great fire and dried our blankets and other things. It was a day of disasters both Dr & myself were unwell the effects of bad pork and a Mauri dog eat up our butter cloth and all. Night fine.

23rd In the Morning we were awakened by the cries of the Waka-Waka or Wood Hen quite close to the Tent; dog would not hunt it. The day was fine and leaving one of the Police who had remained with us to see that the Mauries brought all the loads Dh & I ascended the Mountain. On reaching the top we found that the road did not pass over the highest peak which was on the left & at too great a distance for us to reach it. The height of the ridge we passed we measured by Boiling Water which made it about 2200 feet above the level of the sea the other peak might be 200 feet higher. Our view was very limited owing to a thick fog which covered the lower lands. The Mountain is all Basalt containing the same chrystals as that of Kawia. By the time our observations were finished the Mauries came up carrying everything. The descent of the Mountain was very steep and slippery every minute somebody was down. I shot by the way two very beautiful Paroquets (Kakarekas) 200 but they were too much injured to be worth preserving. About three came to a

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pretty Pah in a Potato garden (Mara) where a feast had been prepared against our arrival consisting of Potatoes, Kumeras, Calebashes &c &c. When all our party had assembled and were seated on the ground the Women were sent to open the ovens and soon returned in Indian file each woman carrying a basket of clean green flax containing the vegetables in her right hand the position of the hand was peculiar the elbow being bent so that the back of the hand nearly rested on the shoulder. There were about twenty women and as they were in their best for the occasion the effect was very pretty. Two loads of baskets were brought in this way and set before us and I assure you we did ample justice to the hospitality of our entertainers. After making them a small present of Tobacco we continued our route through a fine level fern country with excellent soil untill we reached ----- on the Wai Pa the residence of two Pachias 201 both formerly sailors and one a man of colour a fine greyheaded specimen of the genuine old Tar. The old fellow was delighted at our arrival and bustled about Milking the Goats cleaning the pannikins making the Tea and finally setting before us a forequarter of Kid a piece of Pork a capital Pie and vegetables. Symonds who had arrived the night before slyly produced our grog cask and in half an hour old Frank was fighting the "Nile" & "Trafylgar" and relating anecdotes of the immortal Nelson under whose immediate orders he had served. Truly it was glorious in this distant country to hear of the honor of old England from the mouth of her ancient servant, from the mouth of one who had fought and bled in her cause. I find in my Note Book the country from the bottom of Perongea described as splendid Lands extensive downs.

24th The Wai Pa is here a fine stream at least forty yards wide with a current of about two knots. From information on which we could depend we learned that it is navigable for a large boat from its junction with the Wai Kato as far as ten miles above this place a distance of 70 miles now the distance from the junction of the Wai Pa & Wai Kato, to Wai Kato Heads is estimated at 100 miles. At the time we saw the Wai Pa it was very low its banks are steep high and sandy and the river is subject to tremendous freshes our informant stated that it often rose or fell ten feet in a few hours. After breakfast we took leave of Mr Turner and his ancient companion walking down the banks of the river about three

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miles here we crossed in Canoes and leaving the river struck across a beautiful undulating plain towards Otawou. For nine miles we passed through the richest fern land crossing occasional swamps of no great size. The Plain appeared almost boundless. In our rear was Perongea in front Mounga Totare 202 on our left we could see the Mountains near Hourake on our right Mountains the name of which I do not know. I should say the whole plain would form a square of at least 40 2[sq.] Miles. Far in the distance Tonga Redo appeared covered with Snow it is a heavy shapeless mountain. Arrived at Otawou we pitched our tents near the residence of Mr Morgan the Resident Missionary. 203 Shortly after us Mr & Mr Mansell arrived from Wai Kato on a visit to Mr Morgan. 204

April 24th

1841

My last volume brought me as far as Otawou the residence of Mr Morgan and also mentioned the arrival of Mr Mansell the Missionary from Wai Kato. I now resume my narrative without further preface.

Some months ago several of the prisoners broke out of the Jail at "Russel" and made their escape into the interior; for some cause the gang divided and two of the party in the course of their wanderings reached Otawou where they entered the house of a German Jew who lived in one of the Pa's; from some words they used he suspected who they were and went to Mr Morgan who assembled a force of white men and Mauries and made them prisoners giving them to one of the Chiefs to take charge of: he also acquainted Capt Hobson with his proceedings and requested that proper authorities might be sent to remove the men. All this took place six weeks before our arrival.

After tea Mr Morgan sent for the Chief to whom he had given the men and told him that Capt Symonds had come to take the men away the fellow beat about the bush some little time and then said that he would not let them go unless he was paid for the trouble he had been put to in taking care of them this we were prepared for and through Mr Mansell who acted as interpreter asked what he wanted. This simple question led to a long speech in which he enumerated all the pigs he had killed for their eating the water which had been fetched for their especial use the potatoes, Pumpkins, Melons, Kumeras and other vegetables all which had been supplied in unknown quantities to satisfy their voracious appetites. He also added other Items which shall not be mentioned in

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this book concluding with the moderate demand of one hundred Blankets and sixty sovereigns. You may imagine that we were not a little astonished at this exhorbitant demand which was at once refused. We afterwards learned that Mr Morgan had foolishly led the Mauries to believe that they would be rewarded in an extravagant manner. Finding that the conversation was not likely to lead to any satisfactory arrangement Dieffenbach and I adjourned to our Tents where Symonds shortly followed us and talking over the "Korero" we all arrived at the same conclusion that our cause had not been in anyway benefitted by Mr Mansells interpretation and manner.

Sunday 25th We had decided on going down to the Pa where the men were in custody as soon as service was over and Mr Morgan had partly promissed to accompany us but was dissuaded by Mr Mansell. It is necessary to state that the first is only a catechist the other is ordained and appears to rule with a rod of Iron no doubt in conformity with the regulations laid down by the Missionary society. At the appointed time Symonds requested us to accompany him and ordered the attendance of all the white men in the place. Our party consisted of ten or a dozen some unarmed. I had taken the precaution to clean my gun and fortunately had succeeded in putting one of the locks (which a Mauri had seriously damaged) in to good order. On reaching the Pah the Police found no difficulty in handcuffing their Prisoners but the moment they attempted to march them off some of the Mauries siezed the men and would not allow them to go a pulling match took place considerably to the discomfort of the poor fellows whose wrists were nearly broken they assured us that they were ready to go but begged us not to pull them. One Mauri was exceedingly violent he took hold of my gun and tried to wrest it from me this he could not do but the fellows insolence provoked me so that I could hardly keep from putting a bullet through him. The question was now put to Symonds Are we to take them at all hazard? to which he answered No! About this time Wai Kato 205 the head Chief of that part of the country and Mokoro with some others arrived from another Pah. These two soon reduced the others into something like order and a Korero began which of course ended in nothing. There was one Mauri there of a different tribe who were not on the best of terms with the Wai Kato's who strongly advised that the men should be given up: he said, I am as a stranger here and should be as a dumb dog my tongue is tied I have no bussiness to speak but yet I say Give the Men up do not anger the Pachias for you do not know their power. However they would not give the men up and we had to go away without them. In the afternoon Mr Morgan invited us to visit his school:

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there were three classes each with a native teacher one of whom was stone blind. This man was hearing a class say their catechism. He had formerly been a Priest but was now baptized and given the name of Solomon. As he stood in the middle of his class he reminded me of a picture I had seen somewhere of Moses. He was considerably above six feet high and most powerfully framed his head was bald save a few curling & almost milk white locks which grew on the back and behind each ear. His beard which had never been cut was longer and more luxuriant than that of Mauries in general but his forehead! never will it be my lot to see such a forehead again I have seen modern and ancient sculptures but I never saw so noble a head in my life. I tried to learn something of his history but could not. I am sure that man must have lost his eyes early in life or he would have been known all over the Island if not further. 206 I met some of the Party I travelled with from Manakao to Wai Kato one boy is anxious to go with us to Taupo. In the evening Te Warru came to see us and was very indignant when he heard of our treatment at the Pah.

26th Early in the morning Mr Mansell left for Roto Rua I am very glad that he has gone. He proposed meeting us at Taupo in order to make one of the Party to ascend the Tonga Redo there from his intimate knowledge of the Mauri Language he may be useful but wherever there is anything to be done on the part of Govt the further Mr Mansell is off the better he has contrived to shake Te Warru in his determination not a little. The fact is where the common Law of England, the Law of common sense, gains ground there will the influence of the Missionary based on superstition and ignorance gradually disappear; of this fact Mr Mansell is well aware and works diligently to counteract the march of improvement. While at breakfast we heard that the Mauries were bringing the Prisoners to give them up; when we had finished and went out we found all the principal chiefs assembled in front of our Tents with the two men but took not the slightest notice of them and proceeded to pay off Te Warru and his Party who were each given a shirt or Trousers the women got a gown. Our utter indifference appeared to astonish our friends not a little they sat untill twelve oclock and then one of them went to Mr Morgan to beg "that he would take away the anger of the Pachias".

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Having now the whip hand we determined to Keep it and when Mr Morgan came to us requested him to tell the Chiefs that if they came to give the men up it was all very well but if the[y] intended to talk about payment they might go away again the Chiefs answered very humbly that they had brought the men to give them up that they were very sorry for what they had done yesterday and had brought two pigs as a payment. Matters were now easily arranged Te Warru who is going to Wai Ta Mata the day after tomorrow will take them and the Mounted Police, and a Wai Kato Native one of those [who] had charge of the men will also go to see the Govnr and try to get some payment. Te Warru has engaged a Chief to go to Taupo with us his name is Te Tipa. 207 A Mr Merrett whom we met at Mr Morgans has expressed a wish to join our Party which will certainly be granted as he has some little Knowledge of the Language and is moreover a good draughtsman. 208 Mr Morgan had all our things nicely washed for us. Memo The N. Z. Parsons like their bretheren in England are remarkable for their choice of pretty handmaidens.!!!

27th In the morning went with Dieffenbach to Wai Katos Pah where we saw some fine specimens of carving. 209 Wai Kato otherwise Te Pu Ata is a singular old Savage proof to all Missionary doctrines. Although he has been several times wounded he considers that he has a life charmed against the Bullet and declares that he will fight to the last drop of his blood with his enemies. In the Afternoon walked about three miles to the house of a white man who lived in a Pah where was an exquisite Mausoleum erected

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over the daughter of Te Wirru Wirru it was the most beautiful and elaborate piece of Carving I have yet seen. 210 The Principal delinquent having gone to Te Warru's Pah we followed and after the case had been argued he agreed to pay the white man for the injury he had done him. (Marginal note--The White man "Edwards" was a Trader residing in Raroera - Pungarehu the chief anxious to obtain a cask of Tobacco blockaded him in his house 3 days but fearful of a Double gun did not attempt to force the door - Edwards was at length obliged to go for water was siezed bound and beaten & his house plundered - the reason assigned was that he had cursed Pungarehu - after a long dispute it was settled that the beating should be set off against the curse (the latter being doubtful) and that Pungarehu should pay for the property stolen.)

Te Warru was a principal speaker and strongly urged the propriety of making a compensation but now we were to have a still stronger proof of the truth and firmness of his determination. As we were about to leave the pah he called to us to stop as he wished to tell Capt Symonds of the "Kino" 211 of his Daughter, we all stopped when he called a woman to him and trembling like a leaf proceeded to accuse her of Murder. The story was this. A Brother of the Girl had committed adultery with a slave and was detected, fearing either the anger of his wifes relations or else the disgrace of having been found with a Slave, being more than he could bear he committed Suicide. This Sister it seems was much attached to him and the first time she saw the girl after her brothers death killed her with a heavy piece of wood with which she struck her on the head. This happened a considerable time after the mans suicide for fearing the sisters anger the slave concealed herself untill she thought that she might appear in safety. At first Symonds thought that it would be necessary to send the Girl to Wai Ta Mata but on further enquiry he found that the Murder was committed the very night we arrived and before Te Warru had communicated to his people his determination of abiding himself by and making them subject to British Laws. Under these circumstances it was impossible to take any cognizance of the deed which was in conformity with the customs of her country and considered virtuous. Mr

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Morgan administered a severe lecture to the woman and she was discharged. Mr Merrett got a sketch of the scene which I have attempted to describe but whether he will be able to do it justice I know not. 212 Te Warru with his fine mild countenance the tear in his eye and trembling like a leaf; his Daughter oppressed by the Terrors of a law which she did not know; the assembled Mauries (struck with astonishment at the determination of their Chief and wondering what was the new power come among them which would at once upset all their ancient customs) presented a tout ensemble which it would indeed require a powerful pencil to portray much less pen to describe. Who could pretend to enter into the feelings of a man who could resolve rather to sacrifice his daughter than his word. Te Warru said "That which I have promissed I will perform" and this man is a Savage. A short distance off the pah was pointed out to us where Te Warru and his people had been besieged and taken by the Natta Awas on that occasion only Te Warru and seven others escaped and from that he takes his name. The Pah is now rebuilt has been several times besieged but never taken it is called -----. Returned home to Tea.

28th About noon or earlier the Police left with the Prisoners for Wai-Ta-Mata. At Three after taking leave of Mr & Mr Morgan and thanking them for their kindness (for they had been really kind and are I believe worthy people) struck Tents and marched about three miles to a potato ground where we halted. Pitched Tents for the Night. Feel quite lonely without the Police.

29th A wet, rainy day could not induce the Mauries to move.

30th Got under weigh a little past nine: the morning as well as the night was very cold and the ground covered with hoar frost for this reason the Mauries would not move at an earlier hour. The first part of our road was through a fine & nearly level country without wood but as we approached Mounga Totare the soil became less good. On the way we passed the graves of several chiefs who had fallen in battle on one of these was a stone head which I alarmed the Mauries very much by touching one of them declared that the Spirit would certainly rise in the night and avenge itself on me; he appeared to feel the danger I was in very much. The whole country bore the appearance of a submarine formation and of course eventually raised above the influence of the waters. It was traversed by Dykes of Pumice Stone stretching from

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the top of Mounga Totare an old volcano under which we halted at a Pah called Aredetaha 213 having travelled about twelve miles. Te Tipa is not a chief of very high rank but holds an immense tract of Land which has been won by him in the wars.

May 1st A most lovely day after a very frosty night, but most damnable to relate not an inch would the Mauries stir. The alledged reason was that they had not dug the four days food which it was necessary to carry with them but this they might easily have done the night before if they had wished the fact is Te Tipas Father lives here and he wants to stop and talk. Finding all our persuasions in vain we took a short walk to look at the Country which in the neighbourhood of the Pah was all Fern Land the soil excellent broken through in places by volcanic rocks. We attempted to find a path up Mounga Totare without success and were obliged to give up the idea of reaching its summit. It is very thickly Timbered. Our new companion Mr Merrett had with him a volume of Don Juan which was a great acquisition during the long evenings. From the foot of Mounga Totare we could see the Hills in the Neighbourhood of Roto Rua and Taupo and we should have seen Tonga Redo had not the Horizon been rather obscured.

Sunday 2nd We did not move far from our Camp all day. Hunting about in holes and corners. as is my custom I spied a small hole in the trunk of a Rata tree; it was about thirty feet from the ground and there was a species of ladder leading up to it. This I felt convinced must be a powder magazine and on questioning a boy I found that my conclusion was right. It was an admirable place of concealment. We bought two pigs one of which was a very good one for eighteen heads of Tobacco.

3rd During the night the frost was very hard - I saw during our stay here two Mauri games which I had not seen before one is a game of skill and consists in parrying short spears or Javelins made of the stalk of the Fern or other light substance with a long stick which is held as a quarter staff. The spears are thrown from a very short distance and it requires considerable dexterity to parry them. Strange to say the spear is not used as a missile in war nor have they any other sort of Missile. The other simply consists in throwing potatoes with a lighted stick in them from a species of sling: they are hurled to a vast height and of a dark night have a very pretty effect. By nine we were en route travelling through a less fertile country partially clothed with a coarse tufted grass broken into all kinds of ravines skirted by cliff's of pumice and scoriae assuming the most fantastic forms. Halted at noon by a fine stream and

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as one of our pigs declined walking I shot her. Now the Mauri method of teaching a pig to walk is this A string is tied to his hind leg and his driver takes the string in one hand and a good stick in the other. If piggy tries to turn round and bite he gets a tremendous crack over the nose and if he will not walk on he is thrown down by a violent jerk and dragged by the leg along the ground. This is repeated as often as

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may be necessary untill piggy becomes sufficiently tractable often at the expense of a dislocated leg. During the whole day did not see anything to shoot. A Finer or more delightful day could not have shone out of the heavens and we travelled in all about twenty miles a very fair days work for our people who were carrying four days potatoes.

4th The Mauries for a wonder were in a great hurry to get away although the Hoarfrost was thick on the ground we walked four or five miles and then halted to breakfast where there happened to be a party planting potatoes here our people contrived to loiter and delay five hours and during this time we killed our last pig. An old man made us a present of a dozen Kakas which he had caught with a decoy they were very acceptable and our people collected great quantities of "Koroi" the berry of the Kahikatea a very paletable fruit it is very sweet and has a strong flavour of the Juniper I have no doubt that excellent Spirits might be distilled from it. At length we moved and got into the most infernal wood I ever saw I was driven nearly mad first a supplejack would pull off my cap then pull my gun next tumble me over altogether and to add to my distresses my leg which had been very sore since I left Kawia and was now healing was again torn open. Not an inch did this infernal road go in a straight line it appeared to me that we kept incessantly running round and round the same tree 214 at last we got through the wood and while Symonds Dieffenbach and Merrett went up an adjacent hill I pitched the Tents and cooked the dinner.

5th The account given by Dh & Sds of the view 215 from the top of the hill they had ascended induced me to get up before sunrise. It was bitterly cold the ground cover'd with frost and in our "Goashore" 216 was a large cake of Ice. On attaining the top of the hill a thick mist prevented my seeing the Wai Kato which rolled betwixt precipitous cliffs perhaps two

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hundred feet high I could hear the roaring of the waters but could not distinguish the rapids described by my friends. On the opposite side of the river a most extraordinary scene presented itself: mass upon mass of Pumice stone and volcanic ashes lay piled in the utmost confusion a picture of Chaos and utter desolation not a tree or green thing was to be seen I could not at the time help thinking of the fabled valley of the Upas tree. 217 Returning to the Camp I found the Tents struck and the party under weigh we walked about two hours when we came to the banks of a lovely mountain stream called Nga Nga Whio 218 (I am not sure of this name) here we stopped an hour to breakfast and then resumed our route through a country broken and fissured in every direction the soil was nothing but pumice stone and ashes on which nothing grew but some miserable Tufted grass crossed the Wai Papa over which there was a very romantic bridge suspended on ropes the road way was very narrow and made of a kind of long basket woven out of brushwood immediately under the bridge the river dashed down a precipice of thirty or forty feet. We now crossed two high and very steep ranges and these passed the scene changed into a succession of ravines, the largest of which appears to have been the ancient bed of the Wai Kato we walked untill five and then halted. Weather threatening.

6th Under weigh soon after eight our road still lay through ravines of a similar nature to those we travelled through yesterday and the country was still dreary in the extreme. We crossed Monga Kino 219 a fine mountain stream taking us above our middles. All these rivers were evidently low and must be utterly impassable in a fresh. At twelve a party of Mauries met us with a present of Potatoes the finest I had ever seen in New Zealand these we stopped to roast and then walked untill about five when we reached a frontier Pah called Oraruhe; 220 here we were welcomed by shots and the Iremai. I am not inclined to form a very good opinion of the Inhabitants who are the wildest Mauries I have yet seen but much allowance must be made. This is a frontier Pah.

7th A very fine day but our Mauries would not stir. The people of the Pah made us a present of a pig cooked whole and a quantity of Potatoes as fine as those of the Derwent the latter were very acceptable but the pig (in life an old Sow) 221 was uneatable. Parties were continually going

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in and out one arrived from Roto Rua and Mukatoo. 222 These people are at present allied and at feud with the people of Matta Matta who are favoured by the Wai Katos. Te Tipa has been one of the most bitter enemies of these Tribes we therefore naturally expected that there might be some slight manifestation of feeling between the two parties but nothing disagreeable occurred. There was some speaking of which I could not understand much and except that the rival chiefs sat on opposite sides of the Pah looking at each other like strange cats in a gallery there was nothing to lead a person to suspect that they were not the best of friends. The Mauries are at this time rebuilding this Pah which is on the Frontier of the Taupo country. In a great war which raged some time since it was abandoned and destroyed. Its position is very strong on the top of a steep hill with a swamp at the bottom but at the time we were at it was almost destitute of water. They are now stockading it with a double row of Palisading but on the whole it is a miserable place capable of holding perhaps two hundred of all sorts packed "a la Mauri". Most of the fighting men were absent having gone to Otaki. 223 In the afternoon we tried to persuade our party to move our position being by no means comfortable we were penned up in the Pah out of Pork and they would not sell us a pig but worse than all not an inch could we move without being literally persecuted by the whole Pah following us and when we sat in our Tent they all assembled round the Door. Truly it was annoying. However Te Tipa promises us that tomorrow he will take us to a Pah where some of his wifes relations reside and that there we shall be more comfortable.

8th A threatening morning with a light rain falling however in hopes of bettering our condition we struck Tents and took our way for the Pah mentioned by Te Tipa. We passed through a beautiful wood principally Totara and Kikatea and in this were the potato grounds which produced the fine potatoes I have mentioned. The wood grows on the summit of a ridge of hills. After passing the wood we descended into the vallies or plains and were again in the region of scoriae and stunted grass about three miles walk brought us to the Pah which was even more strongly situated than that we had left. It was on the top of a very steep high conical hill defended on two sides by a very deep ravine. It also was in a state of repair contained very few people and was very clean all which made our situation somewhat better but they would not let us have a

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pig and our whole store of food now consisted of some damaged rice and mouldy biscuit. Before we reached T' Muti (the name of the Pah) the rain fell sharply and on arriving there I was driven nearly wild by being told that we were still two days from Taupo. As I was walking round & round in the Pah I saw something like steam arising from a hill about two miles off I enquired what it was and to my great delight was answered Wai Korebooboo (boiling water) I communicated my discovery to my companions we procured a guide necessary on account of the dangerous ground surrounding such places and in spite of the rain went to examine our first boiling spring. 224 Arriving within a quarter of a mile of the spot where I had seen the steam a strong smell of Sulphur was perceptible a few minutes more brought us to the spot where we found four large and three smaller Tufas. The largest was about forty feet in diameter and twenty five feet deep forming an irregular funnel the mud in the bottom was in a boiling state bubbling up in jets to the height of three or four feet with great violence clouds of steam arising which encrusted the sides or walls of the funnel with chrystals of pure Alum and small deposits of Sulphur. We could not get down to the bottom owing to the slippery and treacherous nature of the sides but having provided ourselves with a Pannikin we lowered it with a thermometer in it into the mud and brought it up full of the boiling matter the Thermometer at the time it reached us standing at 216° Fahrenheit. The mud forming the banks of the Funnel is a kind of Pipeclay very greasy tough and tenaceous. With one of the smaller Solfataras we were more successful descending into its very bottom and here we collected the Chrystals abovementioned. The Funnels appear to be connected and run nearly north and south they are situated on a ridge of low rounded hills. All the ground immediately surrounding them was warm the temperature increasing very sensibly at the depth of a few inches Steam escaping on thrusting a stick one or two feet into the ground. I found also two Hangis or ovens which had shortly before been used for cooking food without the usual process of heating stones. Having satisfied our curiosity we returned to the Pah drenched with rain to dine off Potatoes. Night very wet.

Sunday 9th Blowing a gale of wind and nothing to console us for the heavy rain and the detention occasioned by bad weather and Mauri indolence except a few Potatoes. I am getting terribly hipped I have travelled all this distance and now my time is getting so short that if I can reach Taupo I must consider myself lucky. I have some days since given up all hopes of ascending Tonga Redo. Our new Friends in the Pah were too good Christians to sell us a pig on a Sunday except at an exhorbitant price. Old Te Tipa was the only one who seemed to have any feeling

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for our empty bellies and he is a Devil although it was pouring with rain the old man went back to Oraruhe to forage and then the People in the Pah produced two pigs which they offered for sale. In the course of the forenoon Te Tipa returned with a nice pig about 60 lbs weight at the same time giving us back three out of the ten heads of Tobacco with which he had been intrusted. The devotions of the Inhabitants of the Pah consisted in roasting and eating potatoes all day long yet their morals were much shocked at our killing the Pig. I wish to heavens that the Missionaries would teach their converts something useful instead of filling their heads with Cant. Let them add something of their duty towards man & the value of time to their other instructions and then (as is my case) people would not be thwarted in their views by a gang of Psalm singing savages.

10th Dieffh went to visit some more mineral springs 225 and we with much trouble got our party to start. About eleven we were under weigh our road was as dreary and barren as usual. No People no Birds no Beasts utterly desolate. It rained heavily and we waded through swamps and creeks sometimes nearly up to our middles. Symonds & I contrived to get separated from the rest of the Party and lost our way we had much difficulty in regaining the track again. I forgot to say that one of our Mauries a staunch Missionary was so much shocked at our depravity that he told Te Tipa he would go no further with us and left the Pah to go home at an early hour: but on his road the qualms of conscience must have overcome his resolution or probably the vision of a pair of new Trousers appeared to his excited mind certain it is that instead of taking the road to Otawou he took that to Taupo and was passed by me sitting on the ground smoaking the Pipe of despair but shortly after he overtook me carrying a good load which he had collected from one or the other of the Mauries. About five we reached Tutuka Moana the strongest position I had yet seen the hill on which it was built rose abruptly with a rapid river running at its base and the path leading up it was in some places over the bare rock and so steep as to require the use of both hands & feet. Sometime ago the Natta Kahounuies attacked the Pah but could not take it. 226 The inhabitants are Natta-Row-Kowas at present there are few in the Pah all the fighting men having gone to Otake. Shortly after

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dark Dieffh arrived. He describes the springs he saw as quite different from those we visited. They were six or more in number some hot and some cold close together. The Hot were acidulous depositing Carbonate of Lime and Sulphur. One of the cold springs was acidulous the others tasteless. There was also a Solfatara similar to those we saw. All the hot springs were above boiling. The people of the Pah were missionaries and we had not been there long before the story of the Pig was brought on the Tapis and to such an extent did the party spirit rage (for Te Tipa and many of our Party have not yet become converts) that fearful of the consequences which might ensue we at last interfered & told the antiporker Party that we would write a letter to Mr Morgan and that he should decide if it was good or bad in us to buy a pig when we were hungry and had nothing to eat. This satisfied all their scruples and the question was dropped. I have before spoken of the beauty of the women of a pah near Kawia had I previously seen those of this place they would have made little or no impression I do not think that there were more than five or six women at that time in the Settlement but all of great beauty and exquisite figure. One in particular (a Girl who could not have been above eighteen years old) was the most magnificent creature I ever saw her hair was beautiful, her face not actually regular but exceedingly pretty and pleasing and not darker than an English brunette but her figure O ye Gods all the Venusses that were ever drawn or sculptured were deformities compared to her. She was considerably above the middle height her legs feet and hands exquisite and her waist bosom neck and head moulded in far too beautiful a form to be conceived by the liveliest imagination. Every motion every attitude was the perfection of grace and elegance. She knew she was beautiful but in her simplicity the very knowledge increased her charms without tainting her with conceit or affectation. I am not ashamed to say that I fell desperately in love and I would at this moment walk the distance again to look at a woman one half as lovely. 227

11th At 1/2 past nine started on our road in spite of all objections on the part of our people. The Morning was fine though cloudy. We walked about four hours through ravines similar to those I have described excepting that on either side the cliff's were higher and more precipitous. The Mauries are terribly afraid of the Lizard I happened to catch a small one which I put in a box and thus armed I kept the whole party at a swinging pace by occasionally producing my box to the hindmost. At length we left the ravines and ascending a steep hill came in sight of Taupo. My joy at the sight of one of the objects of our search was somewhat damped. The Mauri who carried the box in which was the bottle containing all our Insects and reptiles let it go by the run smashed it

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all to bits and lost both spirits and insects. Leaving the rest of the Party behind Mr Merrett and I made the best of our way to the lake which we reached in about an hour and both drank of its waters at nearly the same moment. The rest of our Party were not long in coming up. I do not know what were Mr Merretts thoughts but as I sat in the lovely little bay with the waters of Taupo before me I would not have exchanged my position with any mortal in the world. Towards evening the clouds disappearing the view became enchanting. The beautiful lake surrounded by hills and steep rugged cliffs lay sleeping as only a lake can sleep. To the South Tonga Redo rose like a Giant his crest covered with snow gilded to a dazzling brightness by the setting sun in advance of all was one high black peak sending forth wreaths of vapour towards the clear blue heavens. 228 All was still nor was there a sign of life except a solitary black shag drying his wings in the last rays of the sun. As I sat contemplating the scene I have attempted to describe on the top of a steep cliff the cry of "Iremai ki te kai" struck my ears the spell was broken and I went down to Supper. Most of the Mauries from the Pah accompanied us to the shores of Taupo (among them was my enchantress) and they provided the Canoe which was to take us to the other end of the lake we were now a large party the Moon was nearly full and all night we amused ourselves singing round our large fires. The Mauries entered into the spirit of the thing and chanted their Akas 229 or songs with unusual glee. The Taupo women far surpassed those of our party in the grace and voluptuousness of their movements but our war song was decidedly superior in fire and wild ferocity. An English chorus greatly delighted them and had Te Tipa and another chief had their way we might have sung to the day of judgement. At length the moon went down and we retired to our Tents.

12th A fine morning: blowing a little fresh. This was made an excuse for more Mauri delay. First we were to start directly then long stories were told of all who had ever been drowned in the Lake. Poof said I, I am a soldier I am not afraid of being drowned. Ah said several if you were drowned there are plenty to replace you but we are few. Next it was proposed to go in the afternoon but this of course ended in smoak. Our Bay was a beautiful little spot deep and sequestered on the point which formed its southern head were several huts peeping through a pretty under wood all Tabooed on the left again the hill was covered with drooping trees each hill was precipitous but wooded in places to the waters edge. I rambled into several such bays in all of which the sand

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was composed almost entirely of chrystals of Felspar I did not forget to drink many happy years to my dear Rosa in a pannikin of water, a classic draught. The night was passed like the preceeding one and by the Fire I learned that the black Grim mountain is Tonga Redo and the snowy one is his wife Te Rua Pahu. Formerly Mount Egmont lived with Tonga Redo his Elder Brother but a quarrel taking place Mount Egmont was driven to Taranaki.

13th By nine or sooner we were off travelling New Zealand fashion in a canoe it was rather a frail affair being very long and narrow yet such as it was twenty Paddles drove her along at a good pace. The Scenery was very beautiful and the lake in appearance a sea was bounded by Basaltic cliffs in some places of a very great height. In occasional places inland cliffs appeared formerly no doubt the boundaries of the Lake. About twelve we stopped to breakfast and again got under weigh but instead of continuing on to the place of our destination at the end of the lake the Mauries would stop at a miserable pah about three oclock in spite of all our entreaties and greatly to our disgust. We sat a full hour in the Canoe in hopes of persuading them to proceed before we got out and pitched our Tent. We then killed a pig we had bought the day before.

14th Away early reached the Pah called Te Rapa 230 at ten. We were welcomed with the usual salutations and shots which I returned. Having pitched our Tents we paid off our Party (Te Tipa having now completed his engagement which was to bring us to the Pah at the foot of Tonga Redo) each man recieving either a shirt or a pair of Trousers and six heads of Tobacco. We also gave eight heads of Tobacco to the Chief to whom the Canoe belonged. We now visited some hot springs which are situated in a steep hill rising immediately behind the Pah. The springs which are innumerable and none of any size flow from a Basaltic Rock the soil in their immediate neighbourhood being charged with oxide of Iron they have a Ferrugenous taste and slight Sulphuric smell. The Mauries cook in them and strange to say they impart no perceptible taste to the food. Their temperature is 205 fah. and they envelope the hill in a perpetual cloud of steam. Pipe clay abounds the Mauries eat it I tasted some & found it agreeable to the taste sweet and unctious. In the Afternoon the principal men who were present assembled in order to hold a Koreroo. Of course we attended. From the general tenor of the conversation I apprehend that my companions will have much difficulty in ascending the Mountain. The Principal Chief of the Taupo tribes Te Heuheu is at present absent with most of his warriors

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he went to avenge the death of his relations who fell last year and purposed to attack Otake but he is now returning without having effected anything owing I suspect to the Natta Awas mustering in too great strength for him. I am aware they expected this attack and were preparing a formidable resistance collecting their Warriors from even the Northern parts of the Middle Island. Te Ropreha is said to be returning with him. Tonga Redo is a Tabooed or sacred mountain I heard two reasons assigned one is that it is sacred because its head is white like the head of Te Heuheu the other that it is the backbone of the great ancestor of all the Mauries. Memo The Hair of a Mauri is sacred. Be this as it may Te Heuheu on his departure gave strict orders that the Taboo of the Mountain should not be broken in his absence and intimated that if it was the heads of those whom he left in charge would be the payment he would exact on his return. He also ordained that if any white man attempted to ascend that he should be stopped and robbed. This law he made when enraged at Mr Bidwells attempt. From all we could gather from the Mauries we were led to consider it doubtful if he reached the summit of Tonga Redo and positively ascertained that he did not ascend the Te Rua Pahu. 231 The Mauries on our way down the Lake showed us the burial place of a Slave who ascended in order to fetch the Berries of the Remu and returning died in one or two days of the cold. In conclusion the Chiefs endeavoured to persuade us from the attempt on the score of Danger and finding that ineffectual declared that if we wanted to ascend that we must await the return of Te Heuheu who would probably allow us to ascend as we were great Ranga Tiras, on the payment of a small sum. After the Koreroo we were presented with a pig cooked whole in the hot springs and a quantity of vegetables. The Mauries seemed well off for food having plenty of Taro, potatoes & Kumeras and also some plants of Tobacco. In this part of the country they have a method of drying the Kumera in an oven and prepared in this way it is as good as a Date. They also dry Turnips but I do not think much of them some of our party considered them equal to a Biffin. 232 The night set in very stormy.

15th The morning was fine. The Mauries brought us for breakfast two kinds of fish which they said were the only ones found in the lake one was about the size of and much resembled the English [word missing] the other was not larger than a minnow they are very rich and delicious when fresh. The Mauries dry them and then they acquire a rancid taste which I do not admire. I made as many enquiries as my limited knowledge of the language would allow and was invariably told that no other fish existed in the lake which if correct is a singular fact in the natural

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history of the country. 233 This end of the lake abounds with wild duck I also saw a line Bittern a small white Gull a wader like the Godwit and shot a Pukako. Had I had a good dog I should have made a good bag. I now determined to set out on my return on the 17th and after some difficulty Te Tipa gave me a lad to go with me. The Bargain was rather curious & worthy of being recorded. In the first place before starting I was to give the lad one shirt to keep him warm on his journey and on reaching the Wai te Mata he was to have a blanket. On the road I was to treat him kindly and not to swear at him and I was to give him every opportunity of joining in the morning & evening worship of his people and not to make him travel on a Sunday. I was to take care of him at Wai-te-Mata untill his chief arrived to take him away and give him food also a place to live in, in my Pah but I was not to make a Servant of him unless he was willing and in that case I was to pay him for his services. If he wished to work for any white Man I was not to prevent it but then all previous agreements were to be cancelled & I was to have no more to do with him I need not say that I gladly acceeded to these conditions. We now went to examine the principal Mineral waters at this end of the Lake. They are in considerable numbers situated on a flat near the River Wai Kato. The largest boils in Jets with great fury throwing out a great body of water which runs from basin to basin finally discharging itself in a considerable stream into the lake the water retaining a high temperature. The temperature of the hotest we could not ascertain one we measured reached 185° Fah. The waters are a fine blue and contain Sulphate of Iron, Lime, Silex and Sulphuric gass. The Natives use them as cooking places and baths and are well aware of their Medicinal qualities. About them is a red earth which lathers like soap and is used as such its qualities are very cleansing and softening. The afternoon was rainy. I must not forget to add that the ground in the neighbourhood of the springs is very treacherous and rotten yesterday I scalded my foot in one of the springs on the hill. The river Wai Kato rises in a lake near the summit of Tonga Redo from thence it flows into or is joined by the waters of a second 234 enters Taupo at its southern extremity and flows from it at the Northern. By this River the great Shongi reached Taupo hauling his canoes over the falls and rapids. 235 He

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almost exterminated these tribes, having previously beaten the Wai Katos. In the night our Tent was blown down fortunately just at that time the rain ceased. The Mauries came to our assistance & we soon pitched it again. All our oil was lost and everything upset & in confusion Substituting lard for oil we rigged our Lamp and put things to rights It was bitterly cold.

16th Remained in camp all day resting my leg which was very sore. The Taupo people plundered ours of all their clothes which they exacted as gifts. One man a chief who had always been well clothed gave away everything except two hankerchiefs. The following dialogue ensued.

What have you done with all your clothes & blankets?

I gave them all to my friend who wished for them!

But you are cold you have only two hankerchiefs on?

Yes I am very! I have no other clothing but these hankerchiefs!

But why did you give all your things away?

My affection for my friend was great!

But your friend cannot love you or he would not like to see you naked in this cold weather!

O yes his affection for me is great! He asked me for my things and I gave them. We now attempted to argue on the folly of such proceedings but finding we made no impression gave up the Point. We afterwards asked Te Tipa if it would be any use to give him a blanket he said no it would follow the others. This custom of giving is common among all the Mauries and I have repeatedly known instances of Mauries giving everything they possessed to their friends who had not.

17th Mr Merrett joined me at the moment of my departure intending to accompany me to Wai Te Mata. Old Te Tipa had so much to say that we did not get away untill nine oclock. I left my two friends with real sorrow I had travelled with them nearly two months two happy months and nothing but extreme necessity would have induced me to part from them. Even the Mauries appeared to feel some sorrow at my departure. My stock for travelling near three hundred miles consisted of 12 heads of tobacco 2 pipes 2 blankets my knapsack a hind quarter of Pork & some potatoes I had also an Iron pot & Tomahawk. The Gun I left with my companions who wished for it. This end of the lake is swampy but we avoided the swamps by taking a Canoe in which we crossed the Wai Kato and some other small streams. We breakfasted at a large Pah about three miles from our encampment. It was Tabooed nearly all its inhabitants having gone to Otake. These tribes always Taboo their huts & pahs when they leave them in consequence of their thieving propensities. To break a Taboo is death. Resuming our route we walked along the Eastern shore of the Lake crossing several small rivers and at 1/2 past three met Mr Brown

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the Missionary from Touronga 236 at a large Pah called Ko Matu Tere. 237 Mr Brown and Mr Chapman 238 the Missionary at Roto Rua had taken the opportunity of our being at Taupo to make a visit I suppose in hopes of making some more converts. The Pah where I met him is missionary on his approach they ranged themselves in a long line which his party (some 20 or 30) passed down shaking hands all the way in a most indifferent manner. The little man stalked at their head. I never saw a more truly ridiculous scene. Mr Chapman had been left behind with a bad headache. From the information I gathered from Mr Brown I determined to change my route and travel via Matta Matta instead of Roto Rua by which Mr Brown informed me I should save at the least two days and he also with great kindness procured me a guide for that road to whom I agreed to pay one Blanket and one Dollar which Mr Merrett assured me I could procure from a Settler who lived at Matta Matta. Mr Brown gave me a Damper & a little tea and sugar and invited us to tea he had nothing to give except bread off which I made as good a supper as I ever eat in my life quietly making away with a large damper.

18th Away before sunrise travelling along the shores of the lake which are very remarkable. In one place the cliff was composed of what appeared to me to be alternate Strata of Pumice and Sandstone. The walking was very heavy over sand and shingle and my shoes began to give way. Mr Merrett walked a short distance with me and then returned he wished to see Mr Chapman to whom he was known I was not sorry to part company for his boys were too heavily loaded to travel my pace. We did not meet Mr Chapman as we expected that gentleman going down the Lake in a Canoe. In the middle of the day passed a large pah. Towards evening the scene was very beautiful the sky without a cloud the lake scarcely rippled and Tonga Redo in the back Ground covered with snow of a Dazzling brightness. Innumerable duck sported about in every direction. Crossed a rapid River and also a considerable stream hot and nearly tasteless. At Sundown stopped at a small settlement at the point where the Wai Kato issues from the Lake where I slept in a large Mauri House. The Night was bitterly cold. I lost at least two hours of the day owing to a misunderstanding about a Canoe which I supposed had been going up the lake. Taupo has nothing of the appearance of a fresh water lake it is a little sea with its cliffs and beaches of sand or shingle. The Eastern and Western sides are bold particularly the former the Southern is low and marshy the Northern appeared bold and the whole has the appearance of great depth. I suppose its length to be about 26 miles and

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its breadth from six to ten. 239 It is liable to heavy storms and squalls and then there is a sea on. There is little timber on its banks but enough small stuff or brushwood to clothe the Rocks. For want of a proper string tied on my shoes with some Heregege 240 or green Flax and this chafed my instep badly.

19th A very cold frosty morning with a thick fog. The Mauries wished us to stop untill they had cooked their breakfast but I was too eager to be off to delay. Crossed the Wai Kato in a Canoe it is here thirty or forty yards wide and very deep and rapid. The first rapids 241 are about three miles from the Lake. Leaving on our left a large hot Spring 242 (on a hill) remarkable for the volume and density of its steam which appeared nearly black we walked about three hours and on our way crossed a hot stream which I suppose flowed from the Spring I have mentioned. The water was strongly acidulous and pleasant to the taste. We now reached a valley the most extraordinary I had ever seen. 243 Its sides were dark, dismal and almost precipitous volumes of steam arising in every direction and the boiling water rushing in torrents down every ravine occasionally one or other of the springs would throw a jet of water high in the air. The trees on the banks were blasted and sickly seeming to feel their unnatural position and through the bottom rolled a stream full five yards wide and very hot. I halted in this extraordinary place and putting a bit of pork and some potatoes into a basket boiled them in about twenty minutes in a bright spring bubbling from a natural basin in the rock. The same water served me for my Tea. Breakfast over crossed the stream our road becoming more barren every step in half an hour crossed another hot stream and in about an hour striking into a little valley came to a pretty potato ground here my boys insisted on resting saying that we had plenty of time to reach the place where they proposed sleeping. We halted for an hour. The only inhabitants were an old man & two old women I soon made friends gaining the old mans heart by fixing the flint of his gun. He said that he had been there many years and had never before been visited by a white man. He gave us potatoes and other vegetables pressing us to remain that night. Resuming our route crossed the little ridge of hills in which the valley was situated and walked untill five through the bottoms when we ascended a steep hill and halted at a potato ground the last on the road to Matta Matta. Some Mauries were here planting potatoes they had built a temporary

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hut in which they gave me the best place. It was bitterly cold. I made a good supper off vegetables smoaked a pipe and went to sleep. The Mornings frost played the devil with my boys feet.

20th Got away at daylight. The Mauries supplied us with Potatoes for which my boys told me that I must not offer any payment. Going away I gave the principal man some Tobacco it was evidently a great treasure but before he took it he asked if it was a free gift. I answered yes. The women gave me a quantity of dried Turnips. In about three hours crossed the Wai Kato on a tolerably well constructed bridge. 244 Halted to light our pipes then moved on. The day was mild. At three eat a small bit of bread and a dried Turnip. On the Wai Kato was a remarkable rock standing by itself it appeared to be at least 100 feet high square and almost perpendicular on all sides. Our route lay through the bottoms and plains the ground consisting of scarce anything but pumice stone covered with coarse grass. On either side in the distance were wooded hills and I remark that the tops of the hills are good land while the Valleys are utterly barren. The only signs of life we saw all day long was an occasional Lark. 245 On the hills we saw one or two hot springs. After 10 1/2 hours of actual walking halted by a small stream cooked our supper and lay down under the lee of some Toe Toe (a kind of rush). It was very cold and we had not wood enough to keep a fire.

21st A dark morning with light rain. An hour and a halfs walking brought us to a deep rapid river which Te Repo (the Matta Matta Mauri) said was the Wai Pa which information I have reason to believe is incorrect. 246 Here we breakfasted and then continued our route with Mounga Totare on our left. The general features of the country were the same as yesterday with occasional swamps and rapid streams. My boys now began to cry Pecavi and although I carried the greater part of the load could not go the pace I travelled at. In consequence I travelled untill after dark and then lay down under a few Manouka bushes. In seeking

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wood for our fire I lost my watch knife and pipe and our united endeavours only procured enough to roast our potatoes and a bit of Pork which we spitted on a stick. The Mauries generally carry a tinderbox and for tinder use charcoal from the Stalk of the Flax. It is decidedly better than common tinder.

22nd Up at daylight fortunately found all the things I had dropped. Five hours walking brought us to Matta Matta 247 where I went to the house of a Trader named O'Brien. He formerly lived in the Pah but in consequence of the annoyance he experienced from the Mauries shifted his habitation and is now making a snug little place on a bit of Land given him by the Father of a Mauri girl who lives with him and by whom he has one or more children. On approaching Matta Matta the country improves very little untill you reach the belt of Trees on the river. This belt consists principally of Kikatea & Totara. On the right are a range of high hills famous for the Romantic scenery they afford and in the neighbourhood are the Wai Ho, Wai Toa & Piako which all empty themselves into the Gulf of Hourake. Wai Ho is navigable for a boat to Wai Heregege 248 within four hours walk of Matta Matta. The Natives are Natta-Houas and within six months have committed three Murders among themselves one man & two women. One of the latter a Slave was shot by her Master and buried but came to, got out, recovered & is now living. 249 Tomate 250 did not come in untill night. I was obliged to give away one of my blankets to my guide Mr O'Brien not being able to spare me one. My ancle was very painful. Put on a poultice of Plantain leaves.

Sunday 23rd Rested all day. Engaged a guide to Mr Prece's Station at Hourake. 251 Payment one Blanket.

24th Intended moving early, but William Wai Ti from Wainga Roa one of the Chiefs who was anxious to introduce British law having come

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over sent me a message that he wished to see me before I left. His principal errand was to beg that I would represent to the Governor that the People of Matta Matta were tired of the war they were waging with the Tribes of Mukatoo and to beg his interference. By his account Matta Matta had formerly conquered Mukatoo and taken possession of the Island of Motete but on their enemies representing that they had no ground they allowed them to reside on and cultivate Motete and now these very people wish to assert their right to it vi et armis. 252 Wai ti also said that he had spoken to the chiefs on the subject of the murders and that they promissed to suppress such acts in future. A Matta Matta chief joined my party. It was nearly eleven when we set out for the Piako. The road lay through a plain intersected by deep swamps. We halted at past five and slept under some Manouka bushes. We were again without fire I had only one blanket and the night was bitterly cold.

25th With trouble got the Mauries under weigh before sunrise. Country the same. Terribly delayed by Tomate who cannot keep up although he carries nothing. 253 About three reached the Piako a fine stream I expected to have found settlers here but they had all left consequently I took a Canoe and went about a mile down the stream to Mauhoro a Mauri settlement. Here they made difficulties about a Canoe but finally promissed me one the next day. A Mauri who had been in a Whaler and spoke a little English now conducted me to a nice little house divided into two little rooms and a passage. He told me that it was his and that I was to sleep in it and forthwith producing two clean mats made my bed on a raised berth in one corner of the room. He next lit a lamp which he hung so that I might see to write and then made a fire on the floor. After a capital supper principally of vegetables I slept soundly untill eight oclock on the

26th We left the settlement about eleven in the Canoe for which I was to pay one Pound at the station of Mr Prece at Hourake but what with Mauri laziness and gathering Koroi we did not reach the proposed resting place. At first it was proposed to go all night but it proved so dark and the river was so encumbered with snags that this proved impracticable so at dark we made fast our Canoe to a stake and laid down on the wet banks under shelter of a flax plant. As we came along a large hawk struck a wild Duck close to the canoe our

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boys jumped out drove away the Hawk and took possession of the Duck which was presented to me. The night was very rainy and tempestuous and we had no fire however I pulled my blanket over my head and contrived to sleep well. The Piako about Mauhoro is exceedingly pretty the banks being clothed with Kikatea and other trees as well as numerous shrubs but a few miles below you see nothing but a series of Swamps the abode of innumerable Wild Fowl and large Hawks. I do not hesitate to say that I saw more wild ducks on the Piako than I saw during the whole of my previous life.

27th Resumed our route early. The day was fine. Near the mouth of the river met a Canoe full of Mauhoro Mauries returning from Wai Te Mata and from them I learned that one of my brother officers had just recovered from a dangerous illness. At five reached Koua Ronga 254 I proceeded directly to the house of Mr Prece who was most unfortunately absent have gone to an assembly of Mauries at Wai Eo 255 (Coromandel Harbour). I applied to Mrs Prece to lend me a pound this she was unable to do but lent me a blanket and a little Tobacco which satisfied the owner of the Canoe. To my Guide from Matta Matta I gave my remaining blanket. Mrs Prece after a little conversation in the course of which she ascertained that I had neither blanket or Tent invited me to Tea after which she enquired had I pitched my Tent and politely insinuated the impossibility of my sleeping in her house in Mr Prece's absence. This was exceedingly agreeable. Fortunately I had observed a Store kept by two white men "Devils" I went there and begged a nights shelter and there I slept on a heap of Potatoes wrapped in two Mauri mats which was all the Poor fellows had to give me except a hearty welcome. The Gulf of Hourake is said to resemble the Thames by which name it is known to Europeans I could not trace the slightest resemblance. The Coast is high and the Piako & Wai Ho are encumbered by mud flats at the point where they discharge themselves into the Estuary. Hourake I am informed is the name of the Coast from the confluence of the Rivers to Coromandel Harbour and that of the Estuary. I suppose the distance from ----- to Mauhoro to be about 35 or 40 miles.

28th Offered a large price for a canoe to proceed direct to Wai te Mata without effect as all the large canoes but one and most of the Mauries were gone to the Meeting at Wai Eo. I agreed with the Matta Matta chief who had travelled with me that he should convey me to Wai Eo that day and that the following we should go to Wai-te-Mata but he delayed so long that we lost the fair wind which was blowing and did not get more than ten or twelve miles by dark. Hearing that a white man resided a mile

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1841

or so from the Pah where the Canoe stopped I walked to his house and was as usual kindly entertained. He made me a good bed of Blankets and also told me that about eight miles further on two white men resided who had a good boat and would be glad to take me to Wai-te-Mata. As my agreement with the Mauries was now nul & void this intelligence much pleased me. I forgot to say that at Kaua Ronga is a very fine Pah which was formerly remarkable for the care and cleanliness with which it was kept but since the Natives have been converted indolence has crept in and the Pah is going to ruins.

29th Raining torrents nevertheless after breakfast started for White Mans house. The Mauries in the night stole my spear which I used for a walking staff I missed it sadly for my instep was by this time very bad and the road about the worst I ever travelled besides which it properly belongs to Symonds to whom it was given by Te Tipa. In due time reached the mans house his boat was at Wai Eo but he gladly agreed to accompany me there as soon as the weather cleared a little and in the meantime gave me some hot water to bathe my feet and a dressing for my instep. The weather continuing bad remained there that night.

Sunday 30th A Fine day. Agreed for a Canoe to convey us to Wai Eo which we reached in four hours. My Matta Matta friend who had bothered me all yesterday for payment for services never rendered which I of course refused decamped in the morning carrying with him a strap belonging to me. The thing was of trifling value but it shewed the man who I had before heard a bad character of. Coromandel harbour is not a first rate Port principally resorted to by vessels engaged in the timber trade. Several settlers reside there trading in timber of all sorts and such other articles of traffic as New Zealand affords. One of them a Mr Dowling 256 begged me to make his house my home during my stay and all expressed a wish to show me kindness and attention; In fact Hospitality is the universal attribute of all White men "Devils" (a term used to distinguish them from the members of the Mission) residing in New Zealand. In the evening a small craft came in from the Master of which I learned that the wind was fair for Wai-te-Mata. No time was to be lost. I got the loan of a coat from Mr Dowling some tea sugar potatoes an Iron Pot & bit of Pork and Lucifers all necessary even for a run of fifty miles in an open boat. Called at the house of Mr Webster 257 to see Mr Prece with whom I had a few minutes conversation and cleared the Heads at 20 minutes past ten at night my crew consisting of the Owner

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of the boat (who had contrived to get half drunk but was sobered by a few hard words and the threat of hard blows if he gave any trouble) a Seaman who had begged a passage a Mauri and Tomate. The wind was fair and light but the sky wore a threatening appearance and the wind backed a sure indication of a gale so we cracked on under Mainsail, Foresail, Jib & Mizen passed Wai Heke about two. The moon went down about three and it became so dark that we could not see Rangi Toto so we furled the Mainsail & let her go easy. At daylight wind freshened. Set Mainsail and scudded along reaching Wai-te-Mata at seven on the morning of the

31st As I landed immediately below Mr Shortlands house I paid him a flying visit and then went to report myself to Major Bunbury who appeared well pleased at my return. At one oclock we mustered and after that I went to pay my respects to the Governor who recieved me with his accustomed kindness. The Doctor now looked at my leg which he pronounced very bad and ordered rest which I did not grumble at as I had plenty to occupy me and moreover found a large packet of English newspapers and letters. Immediately on my return the weather became very bad raining incessantly. In about Ten days my leg was nearly well but just then constant confinement affected my health I became unwell and all the ten days work was undone in a few hours. Becoming better I was present at the Marriage of Mr Coates the then Private Secretary and Miss Bendall which was celebrated at Govt House on the Evg of the --- of June we had a very pleasant party and dancing. 258 A few days afterwards I had the honor of dining with His Excy and going over my Tour with him. About the 3rd of July news arrived of the appointment of several Govt officers from home to the great disgust of those in office. 259

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On the 4th heard of Symonds & Dieffenbach now on their return. On the 5th a vessel arrived with letters and papers from England and other places and on 6th amused myself reading them and commencing answers my Instep being still very sore. I forgot to state that during my absence the Land sale produced the enormous sum of ---- or ---- per acre. 260 Duties commenced on 1st of July.

8th Invited to dine with the Governor could not go on account of foot. The weather has rather improved no rain today. The wind southernly, appears to intend to stand there.

9th In the morning heard that Symonds and Dieffenbach had returned the evening before. In the afternoon saw Dh. They have not ascended Tonga Redo. I have not as yet learned any particulars. Day fine. On further communication with Dr Dieffenbach I learned that Tonga Redo is stated by the Mauries to be yet active the last eruption took place about three years since when the Mountain discharged showers of ashes. After leaving Taupo my friends took the road for Roto Rua and from thence to Touronga. On this line of road they suffered some hardship and were compelled to abandon most of their specimens & their bottles of mineral waters. A chain of lakes extend from Taupo to the sea coast. They are 17 in number. From Touronga they crossed to Matta Matta and so down the Piako home.

The weather continued very stormy and rainy up to the first week in August. Some few changes took place in the population. Mr Young took unto him Miss Hargreaves for better for worse and sundry Immigrants arrived in various vessels from Sydney and other places also a cargo of Chilian Horses. A newspaper 261 and bank 262 were established and Auckland appeared to flourish. On the --- of ----- His Excellency Capt Hobson sailed for Port Nicholson and other Southern Ports in the Govt Brig Victoria 263 accompanied by the Private Secretary 264 Lieut Smart 28th Regt A. D. C. and some minor Officials.

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Since my return I have made no progress in the Mauri language nor in a knowledge of their customs. I have only been able to collect a few songs; traditions &c must be sought among the wild Tribes in the Interior.

August 15th A Seaman to whom I was known in Port Nicholson recognizing me in course of conversation said that about two months since he was at Wanga Nui and that those tribes had beaten the People of Taupo who had attacked them taking their principal Chief. 265 Supposing that this might be Te Heuheu I directed the man to call on me the following day which he did and in the course of an incoherent narrative of the manner he was made prisoner by one of the contending Tribes and taken by them into the Interior he related the following dreadful scene.

In one of the frequent skirmishes the party he happened to be with proved victorious and took prisoner their adversaries principal Chief and his little son a boy about ten years of age. The old warrior was led into the Pah (where his enemies headed by their chief were assembled) and motioned to sit opposite his rival. A pipe was then given him to smoke not a word being spoken. At a given signal a slave arose and creeping behind buried his Tomahawk in the old mans scull. Instantly his head was severed from his body and the Chiefs son rushing forward tore open his bowels and dragging forth his heart yet beating presented it as an offering to his father. The Corpse was now cut up and placed in a "Hangi" already prepared and when sufficiently cooked the little boy was compelled to hand the baskets containing his fathers sodden flesh, round to his savage conquerors. A hand was presented as a mark of special favour to my informant.

I have every reason to believe that this horrible tale is correct. The man knew not where he had been but described several localities known to me with accuracy. Unfortunately he was slightly muddled when with me or I might have gained much information. He stated that although present in many fights he was never once interfered with. From Port Nicholson accounts of a very unsatisfactory nature were recd. They stated that owing to some disturbances with King Wharre Pore the Mauries had Tapued the road leading to Parerua and blockaded it with large Trees and that in consequence of further hostile demonstrations on the part of this chief it had been necessary to swear in and arm four hundred (400) special Constables. 266

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24th Was indeed a sorrowful day for me. I went out hog or pig hunting with five dogs and killed three large Sows but lost poor Nettle who died immediately after killing the second from a bite in the back a Tusk having penetrated her spine. The poor things hind quarters were paralized yet such was her unconquerable spirit that on another pig being put up she struggled from my arms as I sat on the ground and endeavoured to crawl to the assistance of the other dogs. Previously to this she had shewn no signs of intelligence for some minutes. I had brought her from England and she had been my constant companion for nearly five years and a more faithful affectionate creature never existed. I could not leave her to be devoured in the bush by birds & vermin so I carried her home and buried her in my little garden. Many are the traits of her courage and fidelity that I could mention but I feel that I have lost an old and tried friend and to think of her makes me miserable.

Our Men have inhabited the Barrack about a week. After a fine fortnight the weather has again become stormy and unsettled.

25th During the night 25th & 26th we experienced a tremendous thunderstorm the lightening played in the heavens like a Meteor and the thunder resembled the discharge of heavy ordnance a slight oscillation of the earth was also perceptible. At its close it rained heavily and blew a hurricane. I am particular in mentioning this storm as thunderstorms are of rare occurrence and generally trifling compared with those of other countries while this exceeded in violence anything of the kind I ever witnessed.

27th The Favorite H.M.S. arrived from Hobart Town.

28th Atako a Mauri Chief from Port Nicholson paid me a visit our conversation turned on the possibillity of penetrating through the centre of the Island to that settlement. He informed me that from one part of the "Manawa Tu" to "Wai ra rapa" as "Wyderop" is properly spelt is only two days journey over Ruru Wahene a snowy mountain 267 and that he has travelled that way, also that a good road exists from "Taupo" to the said point on the Manawa Tu.

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Septr 1st The sale of Suburban allotments, Cultivation allotments and small Farms took place today I purchased one of the former & hope that it will prove a profitable investment. 268 The weather has been very fine for the last week. Favorite sailed for Bay of Islands on the 29th.

3rd Mr Merrett one of my travelling companions arrived.

Sunday 5th Weather still very fine. Yesterday put some seeds into my little garden. The last month Mr Churton has performed Divine Service for us in our Barrack every Sunday Morning. I am fearful from existing report that I shall be ordered to Port Nicholson.

6th Fine day. Wandered about the Country and collected a few Beetles.

7th to 12th One fine day all the rest wet. 12th very fine little boy found drowned in the hole dug for corner of Church. His name was Mason & his father an Architect ordered hole to be Dug. 269 Called on Mr Cooper Colonial Treasurer.

13th Fine day wrote letter for England.

14th Called at Govt House. Weather appears to be unsettled. Intelligence arrived that the "Sophia Pate" had been lost on the Bar at Kia Para and all the Passengers including the wife of the Capt lost in number 21. The Crew & Capt saved. 270 Also that there had been a Mauri outbreak

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at Wai Mate in which Pomare's Party were engaged led by Kouetti. I have not learned any particulars.

15th & 16th Tremendous gales with heavy rain. Played chess nearly all day. Read Yates's New Zealand, d----d trash. 271

17th Capt Foster arrived from the Bay of Islands having been relieved by Ens Welman in consequence of bad health. The Tyne arrived from Port Nicholson about this date bringing the Judge and Attorney General. Fine weather set in which continued untill the end of the month. Made one or two excursions into the country. Recd letters from England.

October 1st The weather again became unsettled with strong breezes and rain. Prepared a case for England to go by the Planter and wrote letters.

5th Stormy. Coll Godfrey sailed in the Shamrock for the Bay of Islands also Capt Richmond to investigate the Claims to Land in that district. Capt Foster to join Hd Quarters. I miss the Coll much.

6th Strong Gales and rain. Kate Schooner sailed for Coromandel Harbour with Passengers and Mail for England Pr "Planter"; The Govnr is still daily expected. By the Port Nicholson Paper I see that the Company still continue their low abuse of the Govnr. Various rumours of military movements are afloat one that a strong Detacht is to proceed to Port Nicholson and another that the 28th and 80th Regts are ordered to Calcutta I hope that there is good foundation for the last.

7th The heaviest gale that I have witnessed in this part of the Island one Squall was perfectly Terrific and threw the Tyne almost onto her beam ends. The Gale continued all night accompanied by Thunder and lightening. During the day repaired Insect cases.

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8th Still Stormy continued my work. By the Papers I see that the Mauries of Wanganui will not allow the settlers to locate on the ground said to have been purchased by the Company. Remonstrances have been framed by the Settlers to Coll Wakefield and petitions for Protection and Military Aid I. E. for troops to hunt the Mauries off their own ground to Capt Hobson. Dieffenbach left on the Kate to go to England in the Planter. I cannot conceive the reasons for this move nor was I aware that he was gone untill the next day.

9th & 10th Weather still unsettled with wind and rain on the latter day the weather became more moderate in the afternoon.

11th The Lady Raffles Barque arrived from the East Cape also the Govt Brig Victoria with His Excellency Capt Hobson and Staff she beat in against a strong Gale and anchored about three oclock. His Excy was recd by the principal Inhabitants with every mark of respect and esteem. Dined with Symonds.

12th Very bad weather. Symonds dined with me.

13th Early in the morning a Schooner arrived from the Bay of Islands with an English Mail. Later in the day the Barque Jupiter and Brigantine ----- from Bay of Islands there are now 15 vessels in Port. The Victoria reports Schooner Lapwing lost near East Cape also Jewess and two other Schooners near Bankes Peninsula a Whaler has been lost in Palliser Bay.

15th Collected Beetles and drove horses in.

16th Rode over to Manakau in hopes of getting a wild duck. Knocked down two which both fell too far in the sea to be reached. Returning after a hard days work brought home a large bundle of Canary grass.

17th Went to the station up the river. New Moon and weather threatening. Rain in afternoon returned to camp.

18th Paid an official visit to Capt Hobson he looks very ill. Made some other calls and dined with His Excy. It was quite a family party & I spent a very pleasant Evg. (Marginal Note--Stormy with heavy showers.) 19th Rain untill Noon arranged beetles. At Noon cleared blowing hard.

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26th Beautiful weather. I have from good authority that the Bite of the Katipo is as severe as the Mauries describe. Persons bitten break out into blotches and are in a high fever. Bleeding and emetics are the most effectual remedies. During the last week I have been out riding almost every day. From the same source I learn that we were altogether mistaken in the Idea we had formed of the Kakapo unless the Bird so named in the Northern Island differs greatly from that in the Middle. 272 Mr Morant a person whom I have before spoken of, an old settler and a good authority assures me that the Kakapo of the Middle Island is a large green Parrot incapable of flight that he has often killed and eaten them but has never seen them in the Northern Island. Again a Chief at Taupo presented Dieffenbach with some feathers of the Kakapo from which he (Dr Dieffenbach) concluded that it was allied to the Pheasant. These feathers were very old and much valued they had been handed down as an heirloom. Kakapo the name would imply a relation to the kaka a bird well known. My collection of Beetles gets on slowly. Tomate brought me in some large Grubs which he cut out of the Puridi Tree I endeavoured to preserve them with a view of ascertaining what they are the Larvae of however they have all died but one.

Novr 3rd The weather for the last week unsettled. My principal amusements were riding and boating. Some vessels arrived from Sydney but none brought me English letters. The Manakau Companys Emigrant Ship "Brilliant" arrived at Manakua 273 She experienced no difficulty in entering that Port. The Immigrants are about 25 in number most of whom are of the Labouring class. Dined with the Govnr.

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16th "Te Moke" or "Te Mansell" a leading Chief from the Kawia District and one of the three who prayed the Governor for assistance in putting a stop to Mauri murders. Having come up to sell his land he paid me repeated visits. I happened to be at Govt House when he had an audience of the Governor. His Excellency ordered him some refreshment which from certain causes was long in coming the old man was hungry and after waiting patiently a considerable time observed that "it was well for the Governor to give orders but that for his part he should like to see them more speedily excuted and eventually left the house with his ideas of his Excellencys authority much diminished. On a subsequent occasion he observed to me th[at] The Rangatira Hoyau's 274 appeared to keep their servants in much better order than the Govnr did his. At parting he invited me to visit him saying that I had been kind to him in my Pah and when I came to Kawia his house should be mine adding that he should tell all his Tamarekes 275 of my goodness in order that when they came to Wai te Mata they should all come to eat at my house.

24th In the Evg as I returned from Duck shooting I recd the melancholly intelligence of the Death of Capt Symonds 96th Regt who had been drowned the previous day in crossing the harbour of Manakau. The Crew of the boat consisted of two seamen a Gentleman one of the Passengers Pte Brilliant Capt Symonds and a Mauri. The boat capsized in a tremendous squall and all with the exception of the Mauri perished. Such was the fury of the Gale that although Capt Symonds swam encumbered with a heavy pair of Ploughing boots and two Pea Jackets for an hour and twenty minutes the two boats which put off to his assistance were driven in an opposite direction and Capt Symonds went down close to the shore the Mauri had a knife with which he cut off his clothes & which he endeavoured to give to Capt Symonds. 276 The Passenger has left a Widow having only been married a few months. All Auckland is

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in Gloom for Symonds was much beloved. I have lost a valued friend a thing seldom to be found and difficult to Keep.

28th The "Favorite" H. M. S. arrived on the 24th . An atrocious murder has been committed at the Bay of Islands, and the whole country is in an uproar I have not yet heard the Particulars. The Weather is very stormy and unsettled.

It appears that a Mrs Robertson lived on a small Island in the Bay of Islands her family consisting of an old servant called Tommy Bull and two children one of which was a grandchild of Rewa a chief of some weight. A Native named Mukatu had been in her employ some days and had quarrelled with Bull whom he murdered as he lay asleep about six oclock one evg he then went into the house and attacked Mrs Robertson who at first beat him off but was eventually Tomahawked. The little half cast Girl was his next victim & then he pursued the boy who had run away and catching on the Edge of a precipice flung him into the sea. 277 To conceal the crimes Mukatu now fired the house the Flames gave the alarm Mauri & Pachia hurried to the spot and in a day or two the Murderer fell into the hands of Rewa who delivered him up to the civil power. Owing to the great excitement caused by his apprehension and Committal for Mukatu is of exceedingly high Cast and a near relation of the Great Hongi and also connected with the leading chiefs of the Nga Pui and Nga te Whatua tribes it was thought advisable to remove him to Auckland where he now lies awaiting his Trial. Since he has been here he has made repeated attempts to raise the Mauries to the rescue and previously to a Military Guard being placed over the Jail was in the highest spirits talking about his approaching execution as a jest but now it appears that he begins to feel his situation and the absurdity of any attempt at rescue. It is said that the Nga te Whatuas at Kiapara and certain Nga Pui tribes were in a state of great excitement and tearing up their testaments manufactured them into Cartridges. How be it our gallant countrymen at Kororarireka having first sold all the fire arms and Powder they possessed to these Identical Mauries expressed themselves Horridly frightened and Placed themselves under the Protection of the French Corvette L'Aube. As soon as the intelligence of this gallant deed reached Capt Hobson he sent H. M. S. Favorite to relieve Capt Lavaux of the task imposed upon him. Since the Departure

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of the Favorite we have had no intelligence from the Bay but report says that 400 Nga Puis are coming down to sieze our shipping and teach us to behave. Poor Devils what a licking they would get. I have not seen Mukatu but hear that he is a fine young man about 18 years old & 6 feet one inch. He attempted to Murder one of the turnkeys.

December 21st During the whole of this month we were favoured by a succession of beautiful weather. Mr Spain and Mr Ligar the former a land Commissioner and the latter the surveyor General of New Zealand arrived with their families and a large surveying staff. 278 Auckland exhibited some symptoms of active existence in consequence of the necessary preparations for the first races held in New Zealand. The race course was chosen by the Stewards on a pretty piece of Ground about half way to Manakau and morning and afternoon parties might be seen proceeding to train their Nag or witness the Gallops of others. I was appointed Treasurer. No sinecure. No arrivals from England.

30th A Total want of animation or excitement pervades the settlement which nothing can destroy but an attack from the Dreaded Mauries even the Races and the festivities usual at this season of the year failed to remove ENNUI.

January 1st 1842. The usual Xmas festivities which were not forgotten even at the antipodes of Old England and the ceremonies attendant upon the arrival of the New Year in some degree removed the eternal dullness of our circle although Auckland as a Town and a metropolis was Triste as usual. The Settlers appear totally devoid of any spirit of enterprise or at least of the means of carrying any undertaking into effect.

5th The long looked for day has at length arrived. Natives and Pachias may be seen crowding to the race course which is as I have before said a pretty spot situated on the Manakau road. We had a tolerable muster of Ladies who were conveyed in a cart to the area of strife. Great had been the contention among the stewards as to the proper length of the course and it was finally carried by some Scotch men who feared the expence of clearing a greater distance that the course should be a circular half mile the most preposterous thing in the world. At one oclock the Bugle sounded for Saddling for the Town Plate of 30£ with entrances. Five horses entered Haidee, Bobby, Chance, New Zealander and Kitty. Heats mile and distance. 1st Heat Chance & New Zealander Bolted and Kitty pulled up in first half mile Haidee won easily. 2nd Heat Do.

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The Next race was the Valparaiso stakes of 20£ with entrances over the same distance there were four Entrances Miss Starch Cruiskeen Mavourneen & Don Juan. 1st Heat Miss Starch won easily and Don Juan bolted. 2nd Heat Miss Starch again won by almost a distance. A Handicap Race - Five to one had been given on field against Miss Starch. A Race among the Mauri Jockeys concluded the days sport it was the best fun in the whole day although not highly scientific. The Mauries had had their horses given them in part payment for their land only a few days before.

6th 2nd Day. The Capital running of the previous day induced many to venture to the course who had not before dared to attempt a three mile walk.

The days sport commenced with "The Ladies Purse" of 15£ with 10 added and entrances. This was a well contested race between Chance & Haidee however in the second heat Chance shut up and Haidee won easily. A Handicap of 20£ with entrances followed - Miss Starch Haidee New Zealander & Chance. The three first started Haidee making the running Miss Starch well in the rear but picking up towards the finish, a race two miles and distance in fourth round Haidee began to shew symptoms of distress the three legged mare pulling up fast a struggle now took place between Haidee and New Zealander when the latter bolted upset Haidee and Miss Starch about four or six lengths behind went in handsomely. The beaten Stakes followed Won by New Zealander. The Soldiers most of whom were on the course now declared that Miss Starch (my property) had run enough and should be carried home and so determined were they that I had to smuggle her off the course to prevent them carrying their threat into effect. Dr Gammie 80th Regt is the owner of Haidee so that expect the beaten Stakes we carried everything into the Barracks. A capital dinner at Woods Hotel concluded the "First Auckland Races." 279

8th Miss Starch afflicted with colic all night. Followed the course of treatment prescribed in the Horse with complete success. As soon as she was sufficiently recovered I turned her out to recruit after her exertions and to make room for Monops one of the Police horses which I intend to purchase at the coming sale.

After the races the usual state of things prevailed again only varied by a land sale and the disputes in Council. A Regatta got up on the anniversary of the foundation of the Colony or more correctly speaking of the Proclamation afforded one days amusement there was some good racing especially between the canoes. The Race for Whale boats was

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also well contested but the Gig's was won easily in a black Gig belonging to Mr Cooper in which I had the honor of pulling. 280

The good people of Auckland are divided into two parties the supporters of the Government and a clique of Land Sharks styling themselves "The Old Settlers". These noxious vermin have obtained possession of the press and are headed by and represented in Council by the Notorious Mr Earp. Taking advantage of the disturbed state of the country and the depressed state of the Money Market and the commercial embarrassment in New South Wales they have thrown all kinds of difficulties in the way of a Land Claims bill which should give support and advantage to all parties. In their first endeavours they were successful but soon fell to rise no more their Champion Mr Earp being virtually turned out of Council in consequence of some blackguard articles in the paper which were traced to him. 281

Feby 25th Nearly the whole of the Nga ti Pawas Tribe assembled opposite the house of the Protector in a small Bay about 1/2 a mile from the Town. 282 This Tribe inhabit the Country extending from some miles up the Wai Ho (Thames) round the coast to Mercury Bay (Marginal Note--The Island of Wai Heke also belongs to them) and before the Wars of Hongi were numerous and Powerful. Since that time they have been almost exterminated by the Nga ti Howas Waikato and Nga Pui Tribes. They yet retained strength however to cut off the division of the Nga ti Whatua tribe who reside in this neighbourhood and to defeat a Party of Nga Puis at the Barrier Island although the latter were led by Moprau a renowned Warrior. On this occasion Pomare lost a canoe which is carefully preserved at Wai Eo (Coromandel Harbour) and is

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said to be capable of holding 120 men. At Okahau where they first assembled they formally made peace with the Nga ti Whatuas presenting a carved paddle and going through other necessary ceremonies which I regret to say I did not witness.

26th In the Evg went down to visit the Nga ti Pawas. I should think that about 300 fighting men (well armed) are assembled with a considerable number of lads, women and children. Te Wirro Wirro was also there with a number of his Tribe (Waikato) and Rewa (Nga Pui) with a small party. The tout en semble of the scene was very striking and much resembled an english fair with the exception of the canoes of which there must have been nearly forty some very large beautifully carved and ornamented with Feathers. Mr Ed Shortland who was with me never having seen so large an assemblage of Mauries was anxious to see some of their amusements and with little difficulty and the promise of a bag of flour and some Sugar I persuaded them to sing and in a few minutes had two parties of about sixty each hard at work. We remained untill past nine and as we walked home could hear them shouting still. They were in fact worked up to the necessary pitch for singing all night and it was not untill a very late hour that Mr Clarke the Protector and a missionary could allay the storm that I had raised.

March 2nd The Native Chief Mukatu was tried today for the Murder of Thomas Bull and convicted. There were four other charges against him of Murder namely that of Mrs Roberton and the three Children. He is a fine young man supposed to be about 19 years old and stands 6. 2 1/2. His countenance is mild but the head flat and badly shaped. His behaviour in Court was dignified but he seldom spoke. The trial excited great interest and among those who attended were a great number of Mauries. The circumstances of the case as shewn by evidence did not materially differ from the account I have before given.

4th Judgment of Death recorded against Mukatu.

7th Mukatu was executed this day at noon. 283 I had never before witnessed an execution nor should I have attended this unless compelled by duty. As usual a large crowd had assembled of whom a large proportion were women and to their credit be it said that few Mauries attended. I know nothing so horrible as a man being hung like a dog but am not one of those who would abolish the punishment of Death I deem it a necessary evil. His behaviour is said to have been admirable. Untill the Workmen commenced the Gallows he expected to be reprieved

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but on the first blow of the hammer he flung himself down and cried for about two hours. He then became composed and never after lost his self command. At his own request he was Baptized by the name of William King by Mr Churton who continued with him all night and to whom he made a full confession. When led to the Press Room he shook hands with Mr Coates the sheriff whom he thanked for his kindness and said that he forgave all men. In his confession he stated that he had performed work for Mr Roberton for which Bull was to pay him but he refused that they had words and that Bull kicked his shins. That he remained on the Island with his two slaves for two days at the end of which he found an opportunity to kill Bull as he laid asleep. He then went into the house and asked Mrs Roberton for money which she refused saying that Bull would soon come in and would pay him at the same time offering him some figs. She now asked him to assist in cooking the dinner to which he assented and when Mrs Roberton came to the fire and was stooping over it with a pot he watched his opportunity siezed her by the leg flung her down and then tomahawked her. The two children he tomahawked and flung the boy over the cliff. He added that his slaves knew his intention to murder Bull but did not in any way assist. The arrangements for the Execution were admirable and Mukatu died without a struggle.

7th & 8th Sale of Town allotments bought three. 284 Beautiful weather. I have omitted to mention that my friend Te Tipa paid me a long visit last month. He staid about a fortnight and I had the honour to present him to Capt and Mrs Hobson by whom he was most graciously recieved. He is in treaty to sell a large quantity of Land to the Governor who purposes a visit to Kawia & Otawou on which I am to accompany him. I made the old man a few presents and sent him home highly gratified with his reception and treatment. He is most anxious to have a settlement formed at Otawou and makes especial stipulation for a Magistrate.

10th A Chief named Warre Koura from Kawia visited me. He represented himself as the younger brother of Te Tipa I found on enquiry that he was only a cousin. This "Teina" is a very indefinite term 285 I shall write a Chapter on New Zealand relationship as soon as I have gathered all the information I require. Pomare arrived from the Bay of

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Islands I do not think that his visit bodes much good. Nous verrons. The weather still continues extremely dry we have not had a drop of rain to speak of for upwards of three months. Yet we have hardly felt the want of it from the cool weather and delightful breezes which have prevailed.

I have collected some more Rure Rures which are good. Some time since I bought Lady Blessingtons and with infinite trouble waded through the whole of them except her conversations with Lord Byron & those I cannot read some of the others are bad enough but what has Byron done that he should be so vilified for in truth she makes him a very fool. Had he been aware that such nonsense would have been written of him I trow the Lady Blessington would have enjoyed but little of his acquaintance. 286

How is it that I never recorded the return of Colonel Godfrey from the Bay of Islands. Truly this was an oversight. He made my heart glad on the morning of the 3rd. By his accounts we lost much in not becoming acquainted with the Officers of the Discovery Ships of whom he gives a high character I wish that they had come in here instead of going into the Bay. 287

15th A Mauri brought me two specimens of the Matata 288 a small bird which lives in the Swamps. They were too young for skinning or

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for description. On war being declared and the first enemy killed one of these birds is also sacraficed and certain ceremonies and incantations gone through the nature of which I have not been able to ascertain. Lugard sailed for Sydney via Port Nicholson. In the afternoon occupied myself putting my songs in order and in correcting them.

16th Blowing strong from the Eastward. Heavy rain in the night from the North East.

17th St. Patricks day - A Regatta was to have come off but it was so stormy that it was postponed. Tererau and his party from Kaipara the same people who plundered Mr Forsyths have robbed five settlers at Wangari in a most daring manner 289 I expect that the upshot will be that we shall be sent to give them a dancing lesson - The same day a ship of 400 Tons came into Manakau she was bound from Port Phillip to Auckland with live stock but fell in with such baffling winds off the North Cape that her Capt determined to enter one of the Western Ports and strange to say without any chart beat into Manakau against half a gale of wind supposing that he was entering Kaipara.

18th (Marginal Note--The day of the Fight.) 290 A fine morning. About six oclock P.M. we were visited by a tremendous squall. It tore part of the roof off the Barracks levelled the Engineers new House lifting heavy planks off the ground and whirling them into the air like shavings fortunately it did not last more than four minutes or not a house would have been left standing. Several boats on the beach were blown away and smashed but all the vessels were uninjured.

19th Weather unsettled and at times squally - There was a tolerable regatta.

20th Weather improving.

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Notes taken while accompanying His Excellency Capt Hobson on a visit to the Plains of Wai Pa and the Harbours of Kawea Wangaroa &c &c -

March 291 2nd 1842 - His Excellency Capt. Hobson having intimated his wish that I should accompany him on his proposed excursion to the Plains of Wai Pa &c - On the day appointed for our departure I found myself properly accoutred at Govt House about the hour of 10 A.M. Great was the confusion Mr Martins boys not to be found others either gone for food or in search of said boys then by some blunder the tent had been sent into store and was not to be got at and last not least Monck packed up such a quantity of Sundries (pepper and salt &c) that it was next to impossible to carry the Basket. By 11 all difficulties had vanished and the advance guard moved on lead by Mr Martin the Chief Justice and myself. A walk of about six miles brought us to Kourau Nue a small settlement at Manakau belonging to Te Wherro Whero whose younger brother Kati alias Tukewaru alias Pakeke was in waiting to head our party. Seated in the shade we amused ourselves by eating Water Melons untill the arrival of the Governor who came on horseback accompanied by Mr Ed Shortland Pte Sy Mr Morant the Interpreter Monck his body servant and Mr Swainson the Attorney Genl who in the first instance was to have made one of the Party but having the fear of damp Fern & rheumatism before his eyes prudently resolved to allow the waters of Manakau to place a barrier to the flight of his enterprising spirit.

The Canoe intended for the Govnr had gone to Awitu we therefore took a smaller leaving some of the Baggage to follow with Kati the next day. With the tide in our favour and some twenty Paddles we passed rapidly down the bay and when near Puponga met the large Canoe into which we got leaving a few hands to take back the other. As soon as we opened the Heads our crew as is customary put out their strength and we dashed rapidly across the mouth of the Harbour. This is the point of danger many canoes are here lost and it is a place feared by the Mauries even in the calmest weather. Here Poor Symonds lost his life.

Approaching Awitu our people became more cheerful jests and repartees were bandied from stem to stern and the "Tuki Waka" sounded merrily in the still evening.

Landing we pitched Tents in a large unfinished Mauri house the Govnr

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and Mr Martin occupying one and Mr Shortland & I the other (a small one which I had brought for our especial accomodation) but accidents will happen the heat melted the Top of my lamp and down it came into the fern which served for a bed or carpet fortunately I had just gone into the Tent. Memo This day last year I was at Awitu which I then incorrectly spelt Hau Witu.

Sunday 3rd Despatched a messenger the first thing to desire Jabes Bunting to send the horses and after a capital breakfast of Fish, Corn, Potatoes, Kumeras and Pork all presented by the Mauries of the Pa walked to "Orua" the residence of Mr Hamlyn the Missionary where we attended a short service. From Mr Hamlyn we learned that the place was exceedingly unhealthy a fact amply attested by the sudden entry of eight or nine strapping boys the eldest not 17 years old and well on for 6 feet while a younger brother was even taller these with a little daughter form Mr Hamlyns family & well may he be proud of them. 293 A swim prepared me for dinner our Mauri friends having in addition to our fare as at Breakfast presented a pair of Fowls. In the afternoon Jabes Bunting arrived with the Horses "Gaffer and Charley" they had been given into his care some time before to be lead round Manakau and to be taken care of at his Pa untill the arrival of the Govnr at Awitu. This young Chief I am informed is one of the most intelligent natives of New Zealand he is a baptized Xtian of the Wesleyan persuasion and uniting with his talents and good principles the highest blood in Wai Kato he has obtained an influence almost unprecedented in so young a man. During the Evg he amused us much by recounting the Insult proposed to be offered to Te Werawera 294 by Nga ti Pou a Wai Kato tribe which had nearly produced a rupture. A kind of swing had been erected at Pukatea on the bank of the river and by it a slave was to have been swung over Te Werawera's canoe but the swing broke and could not be repaired in time - Powder and Ball had been sown and a Musquet planted all deadly insults. Jabes is of opinion that Nga ti Pou wish to quarrel with Te Werawera but states that they were foiled as he merely announced his intention of returning to acquaint the Govnr with their conduct unless they consented to an amicable arrangement of their differences. The day was beautiful and His Excellency in capital spirits.

4th The morning was fine. By eight oclock the tents were struck, the baggage packed the Pack horse loaded and the Party en route His Excy being mounted on Old Gaffer. Near the South head we passed a lovely little bay shaded by Pohutekaua trees formerly the abode of the Tuniwa

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or Sea God who upsets the Canoes and then devours the people - Two of these spirits formerly lived here and admirably adapted the place seems for the abode of such Demons but it has latterly been deserted for some more favoured locality. From the South head we distinctly saw both Channels to the Harbour and percieved ample traces of the rapid inroads of the sea large trees yet standing far below high water mark which must have grown when their present situation was far above the influence of the Tide. The information derived from the Mauries fully supported ocular evidence of great and recent changes - Within the last few years Kumera grounds near the sea have been abandonned and destroyed not however without benefit as the same movements have greatly increased the width and depth of the south Channel and added to the shoal without the entrance which will eventually become an Island. Indeed it is said that nine years ago there were only -- fathoms in the S. Channel whereas at present there are 12 and more in places. Our road lay along the Beach which was firm affording good walking and although our people were heavily loaded we reached Paeakura 295 (Marginal Note--2nd Pehiakura) Jabes Buntings Pa about two - Paeakura is a beautiful spot situated in the hills about a mile from the sea beach. The houses are generally better than those of other Pas while Jabes's own made over for the occasion to us consisted of two well built rooms and was very clean. There is also a chapel of good native workmanship 45 feet by 35 and at least 25 feet high. 296 In fine everything was clean & well regulated bespeaking the abode of a master mind. In the neighbourhood are three little lakes on one of which there were plenty of Ducks. I should not forget to add that in the Pa were a horse and plenty of Geese and fowls in addition to the usual supply of Pigs. Our day concluded with a plentiful supper of Mauri produce washed down by a pot of Tea. 297 Paeakura is called 20 miles from Awitu I should think it about 16.

5th Between eight and nine took our course to the sea beach along which we walked the rest of our road to Wai Kato. About five miles from Paeakura there is a small settlement and melon ground and in its immediate neighbourhood a spot in the cliffs which has been in a state of combustion for the last nine months. Ascending about 40 feet to examine this supposed volcano we found the Cliff fissured and slipt away for a distance of about twenty feet a quantity of steam or smoke

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ascending having a strong bituminous smell on digging down the heat increased and we found a quantity of Lignite in various stages - over the heated part a small spring constantly flows. The rock is of a sandy nature in places altered by the action of Fire & I am of opinion that it is nothing more than a bed of Coal or Lignite which has become ignited and my opinion is confirmed by hearing that it has burned intermittingly for some years and that there is another and similar vent hole further inland. This view would naturally involve the existence of a large bed of Coal or Lignite but I think that more probable than that the combustion is of purely volcanic origin. Having refreshed ourselves at the melon ground walked on to the crossing place opposite Mr Mansells House at Wai Kato Heads the last three miles being through heavy sand. The young horse Charley came in completely knocked up by the load he had carried and his withers wrung he however crossed the Wai Kato well not so old Gaffer who instead of attempting to swim lay on his side like a log untill about half way over when he commenced plunging and eventually broke loose I was now in some alarm but strange to say the old fellow no sooner found himself thrown on his own resources than he commenced swimming and quietly followed the boat to the landing place. By this time it was four oclock and the rain which had been threatening all day came down. The Governor and Mr Martin had already taken shelter in Mr Mansells 298 while Shortland & I contented ourselves by pitching the tent in an unfinished wooden house which Mr Mansell is now building.

6th A Fracas among the horses caused by the irregular conduct of a pony of Mr Mansells roused me out at an early hour just in time to prevent mischief. The morning was chiefly occupied in altercations between the Governor and the Mauries the former being anxious to proceed up the Wai Kato without delay while the latter preferred remaining for a day or so to eat and talk. His Excellency at length prevailed and at 1/2 past 12 we proceeded in a Canoe to Wai Mate about 1 1/2 miles the residence of two of the oldest Wai Kato Chiefs by name Kukutai and Kai na Hura.

After the usual ceremonies of Welcome had been gone through a young Chief arose and addressing himself to the Governor requested information on various points connected with our laws and customs and on the future proceedings of the Government with respect to themselves adding that the intelligence they had recd from White men and the fate of Mukatu had made their hearts dark and fearful. He was answered by the Govnr and Mr Martin apparently with effect for a Chief called Clarke arose saying that they were satisfied that the Fate of Mukatu was just

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and that in future when they heard reports of an ill feeling or wish to injure them on the part of Govt that they would be careful to ascertain their correctness before entertaining them. The conversation now turned upon a piece of Land which they disputed with -----. Clarke offered on the part of his people to refer the case to an umpire to be chosen by the Governor (a Pakeha) and agreed that an unfinished canoe the immediate cause of the dispute should be left in statu quo untill the decision of the claims. Clarke is a converted native a man of middle age and gives this decided proof of his desire for civilization that he is now employing carpenters to build him a wooden house. 299

The Hangis having been opened and the food distributed our Party made the Grand start the Govnr Mr Martin the Interpreter and Monck occupying the large canoe Shortland and I taking our place in a smaller. Immediately on starting a trial of Strength took place in which we were worsted the Governor having the advantage of the Jack flying in his bow (no small incitement to a Mauri) and a powerful crew of whom the 12 after paddles were as fine a set of men as you would see in a days march whereas some of our crew were mere children and all with the exception of two quite lads. Passing a small settlement a few miles up the river we were joined by one of Te Wherowhero's wives and his two daughters the younger of whom an uncommonly pretty Girl of about 16 had run away from her husband a young Chief of Wangaroa. 300 The afternoon was unfavourably wet & cloudy and the river up which we did not carry the Tide more than eight or nine miles was encumbered by flats, banks and snags. Our Mauries exerted themselves well but what with the strength of the stream and the detention occasioned by the various impediments I have mentioned we did not reach our halting place Honi Whirro 301 untill eight oclock. Took up our abode in a Maori House built for a Catholic Chapel. As well as the day would allow us to see, the first few miles the country on either side of the river appeared rather low & marshy with Kahikatea forest but becoming bolder as we ascended the stream which formed an infinity of Islands some no doubt large and available.

Tuki Waka

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The days work is called 15 miles.

7th Left Te One whero at 1/2 past eight working against a strong stream. Towards noon passed a new Pa situate a little back from the river and which was apparently being fortified with much care. Its People came down to the river in considerable numbers pressing us strongly to stop a day with them. The river swarmed with wild duck and Teal but our crews made such a desperate noise that I only succeeded in bagging a couple of each. Not far from the Pa on the opposite side of the river is a branch stream called Marama Rua which is navigable for canoes nearly to Wakatiwai. 303 The Country on either side was well wooded the hills on the Northward and eastward not pressing so close on the river as those on the Southern and Western. The flat ground seemed tolerably good but the occasional appearance of a Kauri Tree on the hills would lead to the inference that they at least were not well adapted for cultivation. The scenery on the whole was striking and romantic with many beautiful spots and the weather fine tho showery. About five we reached Te Pukatea 304 and here found the swing which had been prepared to insult Te Wherowhero. It consisted of a high supple spar placed so as to incline over the river and furnished with three ropes in the manner of our Giants Stride. When pressed for their motive for wishing to insult Te Wherowhero the people said that it was all a fabrication that a similar swing had stood there for years a plaything for their children but that it had been broken and their putting up a new one lead to the report. We slept in a good raupo cottage built for Mr Ashwell. 305 I suppose the days work to be about 30 miles but will not in anyway vouch for the

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correctness of this estimate not being accustomed to Canoe travelling and having no data by which to regulate my calculations.

8th Right glad were we all to turn out at dawn in order to escape the persecutions of countless fleas who I think must have been aware of our intention only to remain one night so incessant were they in their persecution. The Hangis having been prepared over night we got away soon after sunrise the country through which we passed becoming rather more open. About noon halted for food at a station formed for that purpose called Whai where we were regaled with Rohe 306 (Fern root) and from thence setting sail in about three hours time arrived at a beautiful gorge in a range of Hills (through which Waikato winds his way) finally halting at Kai Totehe beautifully situated under Taupiri the highest of the range above mentioned.

Here we found Te Wherowhero & his friends and it being the Governors intention to remain untill Monday we pitched the Tents selon les regles and prepared to make ourselves comfortable. As soon as the Canoes were cleared the Tangi commenced lasting an unusually long time but this was not to be wondered at some of our Party not having met the people of the Pa for eight years and having of course to go over all the principle events which occurred during that time immediately affecting themselves. To an observer of human nature a Tangi is an interesting spectacle nor may it be tedious to take a brief view of the conduct of the principle actors on this occasion. Te Wherowhero was seated in front of a long open shed dressed in European clothes covered by his blanket and having on his head a handsome cap with a broad gold lace band. Courtier and crafty politician as he is he was evidently deeply affected and at times when the Old Crones who recited the tale of passed times touched on the death of some relation friend or brother warrior a tear would steal down his cheek & his whole frame Tremble with emotion while his fingers might be seen nervously grasping the handle of his Tomahawk on which both hands rested the blade and most of the handle being concealed by his blanket. His was no feigned grief nor had his intercourse with Europeans destroyed the spirit of the Ancient Mauri warrior or taught him to despise the customs of his country.

His brother Kati stood in advance a few yards facing Te Whero Whero he also was dressed in European clothes with a fur cap and an old blue mackintosh cape belonging to the Governor slung over his shoulder. He was evidently in the Painful position of a man who knows not whether to laugh or cry - leaning on a Hani bowed almost to the ground a tear in his eye a drop hanging from his nose and a bitter smile playing in

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sneers about his mouth there he stood a living emblem of Hypocrisy. Not so a huge fellow whom we called indifferently Hercules or Gigas he was utterly upset and sprawling on the ground blubbered like a beaten schoolboy "larding the lean earth" with copious effusions from eyes nose and mouth.

The first burst of excitement or Grief call it which you will was now passed and the Party divided into groups of two or three continued the Tangi in more measured tones or quietly conversed untill the arrival of some thirty or forty damosels bearing the Feast all sorrow was now banished and eating was the order of the Day. The Principle man of the Pa is Paki of whom more hereafter. 307 Crossed the river to the mouth of Manga Ware 308 a creek leading towards the Piako an easy days journey half land & half water. Shot a wild duck & returned. Soon after Dusk it commenced raining so Shortland & I took refuge in our Tent to compose notes.

9th Heavy rain fell throughout the night and the day squally with frequent showers. The Governor and Mr Martin amused themselves tracing Pedigrees while Shortland & I wandered about to the different huts solacing ourselves with a quiet pipe which we removed at such times as our friends the Mauries presented us with some little delicacy such as a Bundle of Eels a handful of Pokoto a basket of Kumeras or Mauku. This last the root of a shrub called by the Mauries T 309 is of extraordinary sweetness when dressed which operation I believe consists in steaming and beating with a stone it has the appearance of a piece of Oakum plentifully sprinkled with brown sugar the flavour is remarkably agreeable something resembling Licorice. Pokoto are a small fish said by some to come down from Taupo to spawn in a lake called Wangapi they are caught and dried in great numbers and as well as dried Eels are much esteemed. For my part I do not like any of their cured fish. Besides all this they gave us for our private consumption a fine Pig and on a hangi

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being opened a large basket of vegetables & Corn was always placed in the front of each of our Tents.

In one of the Sheds we found an old man said to be an own brother of Te Wherowhero's Father. He was busily employed carving a head piece for a war canoe with a couple of old chisels which he used with great expertness dilating on the advantage of having such capital tools instead of the old mauri instruments of green stone. Here I met one of my crew from Awitu to Awa Roa on my expedition last year he seemed pleased to see me a few figs of Tobacco making him as happy as a prince. Parties kept continually coming in and the cooking was incessant. Memo Cats are here made great pets but kept tied up like dogs on account of their thieving propensities. In the evg went to a Pa a few hundred yards off amusing ourselves talking to the Old people in a Cookhouse. Night fine.

10th Sunday. Day fine wandered about smoking & eating and disputing with the Natives on the relative merits of Catholics and Protestants. In the Evg adjourned to Cook house. Remarked much fine land in neighbourhood and considerable plantations of Corn Potatoes & Kumeras. Large tracts of level land appear to extend towards the Piako.

11th After a formal Tangi five Canoes got under weigh about nine oclock - an hours pull brought us to the junction of the rivers Wai Pa & Wai Kato (Na Rua Wahia) By some it is asserted that Horotieu is the proper name of Wai Kato before its junction with Wai Pa but of this I am certain that the natives at the foot of Tonga Rero call it Wai Kato and by the same name it is also know[n] at the point at which it issues from the Lake Taupo I therefore infer that Horotieu is merely a local name applied to some particular part of the river probably from Maunga Tautari to the junction. 310

Nothing can exceed the quiet beauty of the Banks of Wai Pa. The hills rise gradually from the river side to a moderate elevation clothed with magnificent forest its luxuriance amply attesting the richness of the soil and appearing as if nature intended them in future times as the residence of the aristocracy of New Zealand in places I was reminded of the finest parts of the Wharfe or of Sludley Royal to which Wai pa yields nothing in beauty.

Our Party now decreased to three canoes. In the afternoon it began to rain heavily. Finding that a ducking was inevitable I stripped to my Trousers hid my clothes under my big coat siezed a paddle and worked away with such effect that a Tuki waka was instantly composed and we

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beat the Govnrs canoe to sticks Shortland followed my example and on reaching our halting place we had the satisfaction of putting on our dry clothes while the rest of the Party excepting the Govnr who had been covered with a Tarpauling were thoroughly drenched. We at first stopped on the right bank but not finding a house crossed to the opposite side to the Whare of a Pakeha Trader who came over to offer such accomodation as he possessed to the Govnr. 311

The Pakeha abandonned his house entirely to us not so his cat an animal of the size of a well grown Panther he had no idea of our intrusion disturbing his comfort and selected Mr Martin as a proper person on whom to lavish his attentions. Soon after turning in Martins voice was heard high in wrath. In spite of resistance Cat would sleep either on his breast or on his pillow and when at last dislodged watched his opportunity to walk to the other side of the house carrying Mr Martins Blanket in his mouth and thus a perpetual warfare was kept up the whole night to Martins great discomfort & our infinite amusement.

Name of Place Wai Wata Wata. 312

12th The threatening appearance of the weather furnished our people with an excuse for not proceeding although a still better might have been found in the pigs and abundance of other Kaikai steaming in the Hangis. The victuals being cooked & taken over we followed to witness the Tangi it having been announced to us that the people of the place were going to cry over Te Wherowhero. It now rained in right earnest & glad was I to be in such good quarters but Mr Martin not being so well satisfied & dreading in all probability another nocturnal visit from Cat stirred up His Excellency and in spite of all remonstrances on the part of our Mauries we got into the Canoes at 1/2 past one. Do you see that great black Cloud said one it is only waiting for us to get into the Canoes and then down it will pounce upon us. His foreboding was correct it rained cats and dogs. Our Canoe took the lead the boys consoling each other by remarking that there was lots of Kai for te Martinga. From such casual glances as we obtained of the country through the rain it appeared prettier than ever. Just before dark halted in a wretched Cabbage garden where we pitched the Govnrs Tent Shortland & I getting into a long shed where we slept dry and warm. About 20 of the boys got into an old Kitchen which they contrived to set fire to and most ridiculous was it to see them scrambling out of the little door - Howbeit they were none of them hurt and they saved all their things.

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1842

Tuki Waka

13th Soon after sunrise we were away - The morning was lovely for a couple of hours or so then changed becoming dark and showery. As we paddled along Kati pointed out to us the spot where Pomare senior lost his life 314 and also where that Gentleman had made a meal off his (Katis) mothers Head. I[n] relating this pleasing little anecdote Kati was as quiet and composed as if merely relating how Pomare had eaten an Eel. Such is the force of habit. During a few minutes halt "Tonga Rero" & "Te Rua Pahu" my two spaniels jumped out of the canoe and ran into the fern all attempts at finding them were fruitless and we were compelled to proceed without them.

We were now might be said [sic] to be passing through the centre of the Plains of Wai Pa so designated by Capt Symonds. On our right was the beautiful mountain "Perongia" and on the left the Plains extending to Maunga Tautari. The first serious impediment to the navigation of the river now presented itself. For some few miles we had remarked that the stream was unusually strong but this we attributed to a fresh as we toiled up under the left bank we met a Canoe whirling down the strength of the stream with such velocity that our crew could barely exchange a few words with its pullers from which however we gathered that we were approaching the rapid our people anxiously enquiring in what state it was. From their evident state of Trepidation I anticipated some amusement a great display of skill on their part and some little danger. In all these however I was disappointed - the river was so full that it had formed a little channel of comparatively still water under the right bank and our crew jumping into the water or onto the Bank easily dragged us up by long tines of Flax. In the summer when the water is low I am told the difficulty is greater as at such times there is only the one channel in the centre which is encumbered with great stones. Some distance below the rapid we passed old Frank. He also was whirling down stream & I had only time to exchange a few words of recognition.

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Leaving Te Wherowhero at Manga Pore 315 we continued up stream to Turners house 316 he as we knew was not at home having seen him at Waikato whither he had gone to burn bricks for Mr Maunsell but we found his Mauri wife who like a good creature as she is did her possible to make us comfortable and once more I was lodged in my old Quarters.

14th Our Hostess was up at the first dawn & on our turning out a fine kid was seen hanging on the Palings ready skinned and dressed. After Breakfast we went down the river to Manga Pore His Excellency having announced his Intention of being present at a conference between Pake 317 and a Chief of Nga ti Po named Anania respecting some land claimed by both and which they were much inclined to fight about. The discussion commenced by the swing story being brought upon the Tapis. Anania declaring that the whole story was false except that he had planted a Firelock on a certain Island which when Te Wherowhero went down the river he would throw down and that then he Anania would collect his people and prepare for war. Each now endeavoured to shew the best claim to the Country in dispute (An Eel station a Kumera ground of small extent perhaps two or three acres and the little Island before mentioned) and in so doing traced down their respective genealogical Trees in a most extraordinary manner running through several Branches for many generations. Eventually Anania offered to give up all claim to the Island and Eel Pa provided he was allowed the Kumera ground or that it should be held in common but Pake would hear of no arrangement which would not give him the whole possession saying Kau, Kau, No, No, to every proposition and then being a Christian began a speech with a long quotation from one of Pauls Epistles ending with most pagan like threats of Battle murder & sudden death in case Anania did not resign to him the disputed ground. On the Part of Te Wherowhero Kati and others there was some capital speaking which produced no effect as old Pake in agreeing to refer the matter to a Komite 318 declared that he would only consent to abide by its decision if favorable to him. The conference lasted untill dark and then to the Govnrs infinite disgust they sent us home in a wretched crank canoe with four Boys who could hardly stem the stream. As a matter of course it began to rain and we were all again well ducked.

15th At half eight Mr Martin left us 319 on his return to Auckland and about Ten we also Took Canoe for Manga Pore from whence we crossed

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the plains to Otawao. The Governor was highly pleased with the appearance of the Country while on my [part] I found that a second visit did not at all distract from the favorable opinion which I had previously formed. We halted a few minutes on the road to discuss certain good things which had been sent to meet us and here our friend "Gigas" who had previously given us lessons in the proper method of devouring "Pipis" and other viands outdid himself. It is the custom to cook the Eels tied in bundles of three and rolled up in fragrant leaves. One of these bundles Gigas siezed and applied to his lips when Horrible to relate Eels, bones, leaves, all disappeared. There was a slight motion of his jaws a Trifling dilation of the eye, a yard or so of Eel passed rapidly with an even motion through his two hands and was - gone.

On approaching Otawao all our Party who had arms of any kind pressed to the front laying aside their loads. The Jack which had been carried with the greatest Zeal was unfurled and displayed in front of the Governor who rode Mr Morgans little horse the rest of the Party closing up. When in sight of the Pa we percieved that the fences were lined with hundreds of Mauries who opened a heavy fire of Musquetry accompanied by wavings of mats & blankets and loud shouts of "Iremai" "Iremai" "Tetemai E Pa" "Taitemai" &c our skirmishers now extended firing in return performing a number of curious evolutions to the great delight of his Excellency who pronounced the scene highly imposing for my part I could not help thinking that the proceedings of our Party savoured strongly of the ridiculous - Picture to yourself the Governor of all New Zealand "The brightest gem in the Crown of England" as it has been pronounced approaching one of its fortifications riding on a miserable pony an old Union Jack carried by a ragged fellow without Trousers waving over his head followed by a suite of four seedy looking unshaved vagabonds in old shooting Jackets and preceeded by an Escort of two dozen ragamuffins vainly endeavouring to prevail on the wretched guns with which they were armed to pour their thunders forth to the Wide World. A Rush was now made up the hill we enter the Pa and stand before the great council House of "Mukatu" so called because built for conference at the time the Mukatu war was in agitation.

At a given signal the shouts of welcome ceased and fifteen hundred voices commenced the Tangi with an effect truly startling. They were led as usual by three old crones of hideous aspect and Mukuro a principal chief of the place who with a Taia 320 in his hand and a magnificent Meri 321 in his belt occupied a prominent position in advance - The effect of so many voices produced that thrilling sensation which everyone must have experienced when listening to tones of a fine Organ and when at

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length an allusion was made to my visit last year and the question Where are your friends of yore answered the one has gone to the bosom of his Fathers in the deep sea and the other is where we know not I never remember any scene of my life to have been brought before me with so powerful & choaking an effect and glad was I when the theme was again changed to subjects with which I was unconnected.

One of the most singular customs connected with a general Tangi is the chosing of the oldest women in the Pa to fulfill the principal posts. In the present instance as I have mentioned these were three in number & of most surpassing hideousness - Naked to the waist writhed into postures of the most agonized grief their long hair streaming in the wind or torn in handfuls from their heads Tears rushing in Torrents down their wizen faces their flaccid mammae hanging as they stooped over their shrunk and tottering knees they presented a spectacle disgusting and revolting to human nature.

The Tangi ceased Piles of food suddenly appeared as if by Magic and joy and feasting succeeded sorrow & lamentations. His Excelly accompanied Mr Morgan to the Mission House while we pitched our Tent on a flat immediately below the Pa.

Before the Governor left the Pa he was addressed by the principal Chiefs the speaking as usual being bold effective and gentlemanly in Delivery. Indeed the New Zealanders especially those of Noble blood pride themselves on and excell in oratory. I may eventually be tempted to give some of the speeches suffice it here to say that the assembled Chiefs united in hailing the coming of the Governor and the adoption of a new law with gladness.

Several summonses arrived from the Mission house before we were sufficiently disengaged to go to dinner. All my old friends especially those who accompanied us to Taupo flocked to see me and I narrowly escaped rubbing noses with "Tarutu" Titipas wife. Returning to our Tent late in the Evening we had some difficulty in finding the way but at length reached it guided by the Fire. 322

16th On awaking in the morning all fears of famine were effectually removed by the manner in which our friends had adorned the fence in front of the Tent. On the Top was balanced a large pig roasted or steamed whole flanked by goodly kits of Potatoes and Kumeras both cooked and uncooked while two goodly Porkers were amusing themselves rooting at its base and all for our especial eating.

The Governor having determined on ascending Kake Puku 323 the Pony was again in requisition. A pleasant walk of about eight miles brought us to the base of that hill or mountain which rises abruptly

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from the Plain to the height of about 1000 feet. From its summit which we reached with difficulty owing to the steepness of the Path overgrown with high fern we had a tolerably good view of the surrounding country we saw the hill over Roto Rua 324 and Taupiri but the day was too cloudy for a sight of Tonga Rero or Rangi Toto. 325 The soil to the very summit is of the finest quality and bears marks of cultivation and Tupake 326 that bane of New Zealand may be found here although unknown on the Plains. Kake Puku is of volcanic origin probably thrown out from the Crater of "Ko Kawa" a hill of inferior altitude in its immediate neighbourhood. According to Tradition "Ko Kawa" is the wife of "Kake Puku" with whom she lived in peace and immediate proximity in former days but a quarrel taking place she endeavoured to escape in the night & had barely travelled a couple of miles when she was surprized by daylight. Unable to proceed she has since remained in her present situation divided from Kake Puku by an extensive swamp. Is not this conclusive evidence of a volcanic movement within the Period which has elapsed since the arrival of the Mauri in this country.

It was dark when we arrived at Mr Morgans and after a hasty dinner I went to Titipas house at his request. He told me that there had been much talking and that Many of the Chiefs dreaded the introduction of British Law fearful of sharing the fate of Mukatu he added that he feared not the law that he had been at Auckland and knew that they were made to restrain the bad not to oppress the Good - I believe he spoke Truth.

Since last year a circumstance had occurred which bade fair to cause one of those endless feuds so common in N. Z. A young man had met a party of Travellers in a house under Maunga Tautari the conversation turned on the excellence of a gun belonging to the owner of the house and it was produced for examination while in the hands of the young man it went off and Mortally wounded the Chief of the Party. The young man fled to the bush and the Chiefs friends unable to overtake him returned to Otawao to seek payment by killing his Father alledging that the act was intentional and on account of a previous quarrel. The old man apprized of their intention also fled and had remained untaken up to the present time although on several occasions nearly surprized by his pursuers. Mr Morgan who related this story requested the Governor to interfere on this occasion which His Excellency promissed to do. In the Evening Mr Buddle a Missionary of the Wesleyans arrived from his Station 327

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about twelve miles distant. I had not previously seen him and was glad when Excellency accepted an invitation to visit him on our return.

Sunday 17th Not aware of the Governors intention of visiting the Pa Shortland and I occupied ourselves in our Tent all the forenoon. There was heavy rain in the night accompanied by thunder and Lightening. In afternoon amused ourselves strolling about. In Evg - Service at Mr Morgans after which we learned that the Chiefs had agreed that the Old man should be no longer persecuted but allowed to return in safety and that should his Son be taken he should not be killed but sent to Auckland to abide his Trial.

18th Breakfast over the whole Party took the road for Raroera where there was to be a large meeting and a feast. Shortland and I going by a short road arrived a considerable time before the rest of the Party in time to Witness a most amusing quarrel between "Hau nue" 328 my old travelling companion and "Pungarehu" the principal chief of the Pa. For some reason probably known only to Te Wherowhero he had declined the invitation of the People of Raroera sending Hau nui as his deputy. Pungarehu became exceedingly wroth and in a furious speech demanded of his people if they would submit to such an insult calling Hau nue a Slave (Taurekareka) Whereupon Hau nui sprang on his feet administered a slap to his thigh which made the woods ring again and spoke - I a slave what are you? If I am a slave there is not a free man in New Zealand! You call me a slave who are you? You say that I am a slave if so you are the basest of slaves and not fit to eat my dirt. They raved and jumped abusing each other in the grossest man[ner] several times I thought that they would have fought but at length utterly exhausted by their vehemence & exertions both sat down amidst roars of laughter.

The Governor now arrived and with him the white man to whom Pungarehu had promissed payment last year. When asked by the Governor why he had not kept his promise he affected to forget all about it but being closely pressed he swore that he would not give a "Utu" to a white slave who cleaned Mr Morgans lamps. At length he was brought to reason and agreed to pay 45 pigs within three months.

(Marginal Note--The white man Edwards had entered Mr Morgans service and could not get the payment promissed by Pungarehu and on this occasion Pungarehu refused to give any compensation which he denied having promissed. Being confronted with me he acknowledged that he had done so but still refused to pay untill the Governor said that In all his dealings with Mauries he had never know a Chief to break his word like a slave. This roused his pride and he consented to make payment.)

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Without waiting for the feast Shortland & I accompanied Titipa to see a sick brother at Orakau a settlement about five miles distant. The country was by far the richest and most beautiful I ever saw in N. Z. and I do not hesitate to say that we passed through at least 1000 acres of standing corn the Plantations alternating with magnificent forest land of Tawa Kahikatea, Pukatea Rimu & Matai all valuable woods. In places we passed through small swamps of surpassing richness the whole being traversed by several streams abounding in Eel Traps. Having administered some medicine to the sick man and given directions for his future treatment we returned direct to Otawao having walked about fifteen miles. 329

19th The Governor left Mr Morgans house for Kopua the residence of Mr Buddle before daylight - Shortland and I not being in such a hurry struck Tent and set out about nine sending the Baggage to Manga Pore with Te Wherowhero who intended going up the river from thence to Kopua in his canoe. Taking a guide we travelled direct for Kopua winding round the base of Kake Puku. A rapid stream called Puniu crossed our path twice in one place I attempted to swim over but the current was so strong that I was carried down a considerable distance before I made good my landing. At another point this river forms two sides of a triangle at the foot of a hill the banks being perfectly precipitous while on the third is a deep swamp also at times a channel the Hill thus naturally fortified was formerly the scite of a Pa and not being commanded within musquet range must have been almost impregnable. Our Guide pointed out the artificial defences consisting of a deep ditch and Rampart but knew nothing of its history. Walking easily for twelve miles through good country we came to Wai Pa which we crossed to Mr Buddles House prettily situated on the West Bank.

Having deposited our beds and Knapsacks in a tent prepared for us we accompanied Mr Buddle to the Pa where we were introduced to Rutoto a relation of Te Wherowhero a lady who had taken a leading part in the Taranaki wars. Her husband having fallen by the hands of the Nga ti Awa she travelled throughout Wai Kato urging its people to avenge his death and eventually raised the War party who expelled the Nga ti Awas from Taranaki. On this occasion she lost her son who also fell in action.

Mr Buddle informed us that he had descended Wai Pa in a canoe from a point twenty miles above his residence and described to us an immense cavern as existing near that spot 330 abounding with Stalactites of immense size its bottom being formed of Breccia he had not however searched for Organic remains. Tradition - On Perongea there abode in olden times a Lizard (Ngarara) of gigantic size the Terror and scourge of the country.

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In those days the Mauries never crossed that mountain except in parties of from forty to sixty well armed men and even these were frequently attacked and utterly destroyed by this monster who afterwards devoured them at his leasure. At length 140 warriors bound themselves by a vow to accomplish his destruction or die in the attempt. Arrived at the mouth of the hole in which he dwelt they commenced operations by raising a vast mound sloping towards the hole and then took post on its summit. They now made a basket like an Eel Pot which they wove of Mongumongu 331 to an incredible thickness and in this placed the bravest of the assembled warriors armed with seven long spears having a rest for the foot on them like a mauri spade. Their preparations being now completed the basket was lowered down the slope and instantly siezed by the Ngarara but the vast size and thickness of this novel kind of armour prevented the beast from closing his jaws and afforded an opportunity for the Warrior inside to plunge his spears deep into his intestines. The roars of the beast which were heard even at Kawia announced the success of their plot to the 159 [sic] who rushed to the assistance of their companion and the beast was slain. The Tail however had broken off in the conflict and escaped into the thickness of the forest where it remained concealed untill in course of time it produced a new head and feet and actually pursued a man in the last generation.

A kind of Guana 332 was formerly found on Kake Puku highly esteemed as food the Mauries used to close up the mouth of their hole leaving only a small orifice and then poke them with a stick untill enraged they thrust out their heads when a spear was driven through their neck. Our informant (a Mauri) stated that they were still to be found in Mokau and that their bite was very dangerous. Night set in wet.

20th Bidding adieu to Mr Buddle we embarked in our Canoes between nine and Ten. On either side of the river we traced the marks of Freshes in the bundles of Drift left in the Trees many of these being twenty and thirty feet above the present level of the Stream. These freshes are said not to do that damage which would naturally be expected of them the immense number of small rivers by which Wai Pa is at other times fed serving at such times as safety valves for the escape of the superfluous waters. Such is the theory of those who reside on Wai Pa I am not prepared to advance anything either for or against it. Passing Turners house we soon arrived at Manga Pore where the dispute of Land was renewed and the only decision given by the Governor was that The Garden should be left uncultivated and the Island & Eel Pa undisturbed by either party

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untill the final adjustment of the Claim. Our baggage which we had left in the large Tent totally unguarded when going to Otawao we found untouched nor had any person even entered the Tent. This was soon transferred to the canoes together with Twenty pigs roasted whole. I may here state that on one day only Sixty pigs were slaughtered at Otawao and forty at Raroera - Between Turners house & Mr Buddles two streams flow into Wai Pa said to be navigable for Canoes for twenty miles 333 - Three miles below Manga Pore is the scite of an ancient Pa called Mataketake 334 and belonging to Nga ti Mahouta Te Wherowheros tribe - containing the flower of Waikato it was surprized by Pomare Senior one morning in a fog and by noon Two Thousand men women & children were murdered on this occasion Nga Pui had firearms but Waikato none. Pokowa Teretere 335 was also destroyed it belonged to Ngaungau.

When descending the Rapids it was found necessary to lighten the Canoe among those sent on shore was my boy Tomate and a young chief named Tumutumu I gave the former my Gun to carry but when he returned to the Canoe I found he had it not and enquiring the reason he answered the Tumutumu had taken it from him and had gone to shoot ducks. Now Tumutumu formerly was a great favorite with me but led away by a scamp in our party had become saucy and lazy. Provoked beyond measure by this new piece of assurance I quietly told him when he returned that if he trusted to his rank for protection in imposing on any slave while my servant that he would find himself miserably mistaken for that on a repetition of such conduct I would break every bone in his skin a Doctrine which astonished the dark dignitaries in the Canoe. An hour before sundown halted a short distance past the Horo at a Settlement where we found the horses and also one belonging to Mr Wallace the Missionary at Wanga Roa. 336 Pitched tents. Name of place Manga Kowai.

21st Leaving Te Wherowhero & Kati with the large Tent & Canteen to go home by water we started at eight oclock for Wanga Roa taking with us just enough people to carry the lightened baggage. 337 A Beautiful

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day followed a night of heavy dew. After walking about three or four miles being in advance I halted to enjoy the view which included Taupiri and Maunga Tautari when a loud crash in the gulley below followed by shouts told me that something had happened I hastened back and sure enough there was the young horse baggage and all full twenty feet down an almost perpendicular gulley he had tripped over an old tree and gone headlong down fortunately without being hurt. Having got him out we all turned to and cut away part of the tree which had caused the accident so as to leave a better path. The Place was called by the Mauries in commemoration the "Governors Tree". The Road which for New Zealand was tolerably good and level for the first half of the distance was through a dense forest of Totara & other woods and about two hours walk from Wai Pa I found Limestone a specimen of which I knocked off to the great astonishment of an Ancient Mauri who wished to know if I intended to make gold of it. All went well untill we came to Wai te Tuna a rapid stream between two high banks. It was an easy matter to get all three horses into the river but having done so only one Mr Wallace's would come out and as His Excellency being a Sailor knew more about horses than anyone else I let him follow his own devices & quietly looked on. At lenght he ordered them to be taken somewhere else and finally followed himself I lit my pipe and sat down. After waiting upwards of an hour I followed the track of the rest of the party & found them about two miles further on roasting potatoes. At length the horses arrived and with them His Excellency in no amiable Temper he forthwith pitched into me I said not a word so he looked out for someone else. 338 Travelling on we came to a swamp & being ahead and expecting an accident I sat down nor was I mistaken. Shortland mounted on Old Gaffer charged the place gallantly and in they rolled and Gaffer was bogged half way up his belly. The Governor was present but having had enough of it left it to me to extricate the Old horse which I easily effected by putting the Tether rope round his Haunches and clapping on a dozen of fellows. At 1/2 past four reached the spot where Mr Wallace's boat was to meet us accompanied by a Canoe for our people. Two hours pull brought us to Mr Wallaces House where we were kindly entertained. 339

22nd Up at eight. Weather unsettled after a Stormy night. Tested the stone which I procured yesterday It effervesced freely with Nitric acid. Wrote journal In forenoon a[t] low water the boys brought in the horses. In afternoon crossed the creek to the small settlement where our people had put up.

In an interview which the Governor held with Awaitai[a] (William Naylor) and Te Maihoa (Broughton) these Chiefs expressed themselves

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highly dissatisfied with the Conduct of Te Wherowhero who they complained was aggrandizing himself at their expence they particularly cited his sale of Taranaki to the Govt for which he recd payment to the value of £500 340 no share of which they had been given although instrumental to its conquest. Mr Wallis's House is in a decidedly bad situation it being next to impossible to go any distance without crossing some Creek by canoe or Boat.

23rd At 10 A M left for A'Otea travelling by the same route as last year. Reached Mr Turtons house 341 at four A.M. [sic] He recd us kindly and allotted to Shortland & I his study for our Dormitory. Late in the Evg Mr Whitely arrived. The day was without rain a strong S. W. wind prevailing - we learned that the weather on the coast for the last three weeks had been stormy with much rain. After Tea went into Mr Turtons kitchen to smoak my pipe where I found a party reading the Testament the Book was handed in turn to me in order that I might learn a lovely little girl one of Mr Turtons Mauri servants undertaking the office of Preceptress. Need I say that under such Tuition I improved rapidly.

25th A cold stormy day. Attended the Mauri service at which about two hundred and fifty Mauries were present. The most striking thing in the service is the way in which the Mauries repeat the responses these however long being said in a loud voice by all and in one breath producing a singular effect. They also sing Psalms in an atrocious manner without the least regard to the Tune. The Church was a Raupo Building about 40 feet by 30 - Among the Congregation I noticed a half cast woman about twenty years old I had some conversation with her when she said that she heard that her Father was a white man she was strikingly handsome with a fine colour & hair & magnificent eyes and figure. In the Evg English

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service in Mr Turtons. Again took a lesson from "Maria" who is even prettier than "Tuwahine" my Taupo beauty but not equal in figure being rather Petite.

25th At an early hour leaving our blankets crossed A'Otea to the Portage where we landed & walked about 1/2 a mile to Kawia. Here we were met by Mr Whiteleys boat the state of the tide compelling us to go almost to the Heads before we could bear up for A Huahua 342 the Missionary settlement. By this we gained a perfect view of the flats and Banks in the Harbour and of the Bar all serious impediments to Kawia ever becoming a place of importance but perhaps a still greater exists in the violence of the Tides the Ebb running between the Heads at least six knots - a Vessel entering should keep a remarkable white patch in the cliffs opposite the entrance just clear of the South head. Arrived at Ahuahua we were kindly welcomed by Mr Whitely and after a capital dinner sallied out to converse with the Mauries the main topic being complaints of Te Wherowhero's conduct as at Wangaroa and desultory conversation respecting the sale of Land.

The Govnr having by this time become homesick determined to leave the next morning letters he recd from Auckland announcing the destruction of the Govt offices by fire 343 strengthening his resolve - I accordingly made the most of my time holding long Korero's with Te Waru and Kiwi my former guides to whom I made small presents - I also arranged with Mr Whitely to do his possible towards a purchase of Tomate's freedom and gave him permission to go to Taranaki to see his friends. Although no doubt anxious to visit his relations he at first declined going because "I should then have no one to carry my things home". In the whole transaction he showed much good feeling.

26th Gave Tomate some new clothes and told him to go to Taranaki he however waited untill the boat was ready and then having stowed my things again came to take leave A Huahua is a pretty settlement in a bay (or river) which ever it would be most correctly designated consisting of Mr Whitely's Wooden house a Wooden church in course of erection and a few Mauri houses some of which are inhabited by traders. It is one of the cleanest and wears an air of greater comfort than any other Missionary station that I have seen. Pigs cut their throats when they try to swim - Pigs do nothing of the sort - Those of Kawia go out to feed on the flats where they dig up shell fish nor do they dream of moving untill lifted off their legs by the flowing tide when they swim ashore some

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that we saw had at least a mile to go and several strong tide streams to cross. At the upper end of the harbour we were met by Te Gunawai and some others who wanted to talk to the "Governor" but he poor man being in a hurry was also in a very bad temper and flying into a desperate passion at some very ordinary speech scuttled away leaving his obscure subjects greatly disgusted. Merely halting at Mr Turtons to take up our baggage and thank him for his kindness we pushed on for Wangaroa Shortland & I having serious thoughts of stopping at Te Mata (half way) for the night but second thoughts are always best and although some of the Party were benighted in the Wood or in the darkness got up to their middles in the Mud of Wangaroa yet all arrived safely at Mr Wallaces. The Governor being on horseback and the road good got in just before dark.

27th By seven we were all astir and about 1/2 past nine taking leave of our kind entertainers we crossed the harbour. Having taken a hasty view of the Entrance from the Settlement Horea we loaded the pack horse shook hands with Mr Wallace and took our route for Wai Kato. Memo To cross the Bar keep the North head touching a house situate on a remarkable red bank then steer for south head.

We here saw Nga Rete's husband He Kaka (David) as handsome a young fellow as you would often find. We must presume however that his good qualities did not equal his appearance or else fail to assign cause for the flight of the fair fugitive. 344 I also find in my note book the name Ngohe but am at loss to know to what it alludes.

After a vain attempt to ride on the Pack Saddle I pushed on for Oudu Eka where I halted to converse with Old Kiwi & his pretty daughters. The rest of the Party coming up Shortland handed old Gaffer over to me and we moved on five miles further to a Remarkable tree where we dined. Passing an old Fortification Shortland & I who were ahead halted at Rangi Kahu 345 where we supposed that we should stop but not a bit of it His Excellency in spite of our boys who were beginning to flag determining to go on to Puke Rewa where we arrived at eight some of the Party not coming in untill Ten. Having made some Tea we turned in to an old chapel where we passed a wretched night endeavouring to catch the fleas by which we were covered. Shortland was driven out. Even the Governor who slept in a Hammock was devoured and in addition was attacked by colic and cramp so that he howled like a young rhinoceros. At last I fell asleep. Some of the Party were so fortunate during the days walk as to see Taranaki. 346

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28th Away at 1/4 to six breakfasting on the road at Te Iringa. Govnr very cross always blowing up poor Meurant on one occasion because he missed seeing the Coal vein the road by it being inaccessible to a horse. I brought away a few specimens. In course of the day Shortland & Gaffer again got bogged the boys were knocked up and the young horse so dead beat by the heavy load put on him in spite of all my remonstrances that we were first obliged to unload and finally leave him behind. This was done by Shortland and I who were so delayed that we only reached Mr Maunsells in time to pick the fleas out of our blankets and moreover got wet through with rain.

29th Crossed River at nine. Horses again all up as we had on arriving at Maraitai sent a lad out with corn for Poor Charley. My Mauri friends brought back Tonga Rero and Te Rua Pahu who had found their way to a Pa where they were well cared for and sent to me by the first opportunity. By the time all the party reached Paeakura it was dark but the Governor had gone on to the Toro leaving us to see the last baggage away from Paeakura.

The horse we were obliged to leave behind and after the boys had had some food we again started our road laying through a wood for upwards of two miles and so intensely dark was it that we could not see each other three yards off at length we got onto the open country and after wading through several swamps found the Governor at Bushells House at the Toro - distance eight miles. The Place was filthily dirty & full of fleas

30th At Two the boys went for the Canoe at four we got away at seven halted for the turn of the Tide at 347 Karanga Hape. At nine got away again in spite of the fears of the Mauries the day being stormy. At 1/2 past one landed at Onehunga and at 1/2 past three Walked into the Barracks.

The song of Maukuro on the occasion of His Excellencys Govnr Hobsons visit to Otawao. 348

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1842

Daiary of an Excursion to the disturbed districts of Houraki and Tauronga

The Honble The Colonial Secretary having been directed by His Excellency the Governor to proceed to the above mentioned districts to enquire into the cause of the Attack of Taraia Chief of Nga ti Tamatera on a part of Nga ti te Rangi residing at Kati-Kati 349 kindly invited me to accompany him having obtained permission on

2nd July Embarked in the Govt Pinnace at nine oclock A.M. Mr Shortlands party consisting of Mr Clarke Chief Protector of Aborigines Mr Ed Shortland & myself. The Wind being very scant in the Afternoon we landed at Maraetai the residence of Mr Fairburn about 14 miles from Auckland. We found a Mauri and his Wife in charge of the house (Mr F. being from home) of which we incontinently took possession the Lady doing the honors with great kindness and good humour apologizing for poorness of the entertainment. Rolled in our blankets we slept before the fire.

3rd Sunday. Remained at Maraetai tho' the wind was fair and the day fine. After a Maori service Mr E. Sd & I walked to the top of a high hill in the Neighbourhood but the view was obscure and we were barely enabled to see Manuka we then prolonged our walk along the Beach where we saw several pretty Bays but the Land was poor. Few Mauries reside here they come over on a Sunday from Putiki. 350

4th Got under weigh at 8 A.M. The wind failing got out sweeps and thus crept along with the tide in our favour until we reached the Maori Settlement Orere the distance being about twelve miles. The situation of Orere is exceedingly romantic and strong the little Pa's being on either side of a deep Gulley beautifully wooded with Pohutikaua through the bottom runs a rapid stream into which we brought our Boat. Amused ourselves wandering about 'til dark when we took up our abode in a clean hut without fleas. The People were generally employed building new houses of a description far superior to their old dens a Symptom of improvement. In the Evg Mr Clarke had a good deal of conversation on various subjects with the natives to which however I did not particularly attend as it in no way came in my line.

5th Getting up at sunrise made the best of my way to a Pa called ----- about two miles from Orere. The chief Ruinga and the greater number of his people have not yet adopted the Missionary doctrines and although decidedly not approvers of Taraias late proceedings yet equally averse to

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his being treated as a murderer. By the time I had returned I found the Party just finished breakfast and about to set out for the same Pa; as I had had enough of meandering through the verdant mud and had moreover examined the cliffs and procured some red ochre besides having ascertained that Ruingas was a very pretty place & that he and his whole party were miserably cheated by some Traders in potatoes, corn &c I declined returning and undertook to see the boat taken with as little delay as possible out of a creek where she lay but this was not to be accomplished until past three. In the mean time the Sea birds gave signal that the "Kawai" were making for the coast. All the canoes were in instant requisition and soon they might be seen pulling round & round in the midst of the shoal in rapid circles trailing after them their bright snare. The Kawai hook is formed of a piece of oblong Pearl let into a bit of wood of the same shape to the extremity of which a bone hook is usually attached. Two of these hooks were presented me by a young lady of the Pa and another added five fine Kawai lest I might be hungry before reaching Kauaronga a third adding that fish without Potatoes were no good & forthwith presenting a kit of fine Potatoes & also one of Kumeras. Our Party having returned we embarked & stood across the firth with a light wind by the time it was dark Mr Clarke who professed to be Pilot had not the slightest idea of our locality and to add to our discomfort it began to blow heavily from the N. E. Nothing remained for it so we beached the boat at the first favorable place and stowed ourselves away as well as we could. Howbeit I was told next morning that I was the only one who could sleep and have vague reminisinces of abusing sundry people in the night for making a noise.

6th At dawn we found ourselves some four or five miles from Kauaronga so made sail but the tide being against us landed about two miles from Mr Preces and then walked to his house. On arriving at Kauaronga we found the Inhabitants much excited expecting an attack from the People of Tauronga & some said from those of Matta Matta. Spies kept going and returning and fearful tales were told of a body of warriors encamped on the Wai Ho who it was said only waited a favorable opportunity to descend upon them. To prove the correctness of their statement they affirmed that three young men had gone out to obtain intelligence appointing a time for their return which had by this time passed & that no doubt existed as to their Capture by the enemy whose fire they had seen a few miles up the river. Mr Prece now explained that when a War party were out and had penetrated as far as they thought proper into their enemies country that it was customary to light a large fire & return.

After we had washed & breakfasted we went to the Pa where we met a deputation from the Xstian party at Matta Matta who said that they did not intend to take any part in the Quarrel which they wished to have

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adjusted without further recourse to arms. One proposition was that a piece of Land should be sold to the Govt up the Wai Ho and that a settlement should be formed there with Soldiers for a Guard who should not allow any armed parties of [natives to] go either up or down the river but should be a barrier between the rival tribes. We also learned that Taraias party consisted of about 60 men of whom 20 were Nga Puhi from Wangari who happened to be on a visit of the others about thirty were of his own immediate followers and the remainder he picked up by two's and three's at different places along the coast and so secret did he keep his intention that none of his people knew their destination until some miles up Wai Ho had it been discovered the Friends of Whanaki in Houraki would have stopped him at his outset. Having reached the crossing place 351 to Katikati Taraia abandonned his canoes and that evg arrived in the Neighbourhood of the Pa just before dawn the following morning he surprized the place killed 8 among whom were Wanaki & Pai Tuhi, took 17 as slaves the remainder 16 escaped in a canoe. When on his retreat he had arrived at a convenient place Whanaki & another were cooked part eaten & their heads and such parts as were not devoured reserved to grace their triumph. The Body and head of Pai Tuhi were abandonned as owing to his near relationship to some of the tribes inhabiting Houraki it was deemed dangerous to treat his remains with disrespect & a letter was left informing his friends at Tauronga where they might find him. Various reasons were assigned for this savage proceeding one party stating that Taraia was urged to it by Te Mutu a Tauronga chief who was said to have used the following expression in a letter to him "Tera taku rahue poaka haeremai koe kia wakangau". 352

The conference over we walked to the scite of a Pa destroyed by Hongi it was called Totara 353 and in position very strong from thence we had a fine view of the flats on either side of Wai Ho and of Kopua the place proposed to be sold for a settlement our walk led us through some excellent Land watered by a small creek part of which I understood to belong to Mr Prece. Having sent the Boat to a convenient place our days work was done and at Night rolled in our blankets we slept before the fire.

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7th Arose at dawn intending to visit Taraia but owing to some misunderstanding we did not meet the Boat until noon we then beat for three hours but not making a mile put back to Tararu & returned to Mr Preces "A great disappointment" said the amiable Mrs Prece 354 no doubt you find it so thought I, remembering her hospitable treatment last year. Truly it is a great thing to be in company with the grandees of the Land. Ed Sd & Mr Prece had preferred walking to Taraias 355 and did not return before eight oclock.

8th Up at dawn and walked to Tararu where we embarked for Taraias settlement. At first our appearance excited considerable distrust and it was some time before we could prevail on them to carry us on shore. On our first entering the Pa Taraia was not to be seen at length he came forth from his house dressed with much care but evidently disconcerted and ill at ease having seated himself he offered his hand which we refused to take saying that on his present behaviour depended our treating him as a friend or enemy. Mr Clarke now informed 356 him that Mr Shortland had come to enquire into the cause of his attack on the People of Tauranga having been sent by the Governor. Taraia replied that the Governor was no Governor for him or his people and that he had never signed the Treaty nor would he acknowledge his authority, That he had for years carried on War with Tauronga during which time nearly all his relations had fallen by their hands and that his present attack was to avenge his friends and drive his enemies off a piece of his land which they had occupied at Kati Kati. He added that his heart had been made dark by reports which he had heard that the Governor would employ the other tribes to sieze and take him to Auckland where he would be hanged this he said annoied him but if the Soldiers came that the world should see how Taraia could die. He said that by the strength of his right hand he had always gone whither he willed and by the same strength he would make his way to his friends in the centre of the Island and that if the Governor determined on having his life that he would take a payment before hand. Being told that peace was the object of the Governor he said that peace was what he wished and entered warmly into the project of making a Settlement on Wai Ho he also offered to sell his right to Kati Kati but declared that the people of Tauronga should never hold undisturbed the land which contained the Bones of his relations he also

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agreed to return all those whom he had taken Prisoners and positively denied that he had been urged to his late act by Te Mutu and concluded by inviting us to visit him on our return to Tauronga which Mr Shortland promissed to do. Taraia is about the Middle height & strongly formed his countenance firm to which a high receeding forehead gives an appearance of Ferocity he is quite grey and fully Tattoed. 357 On parting we all shook hands with him but I must say my sensations were not pleasant as I looked at his ragged stunted teeth I could not help associating their appearance with his gnawing the bones of his fellow men. Strange to say we found a Tauronga native at Taraias Pa for whom he begged a passage & on his departure embraced with apparent affection calling him his child and loading him with presents. Another singular circumstance is connected with this affair Taraias party plundered the house of a white man up Wai Ho as soon as Taraia knew it he ordered everything to be restored which was instantly done. 358

Failing to reach Wai Eo we put into a little bay and slept in a shed. Here we fell in with a Party of Travellers who gave us pigeons in return for some Shot and said that a Brig had sailed from Wai Eo that morning.

9th At dawn we turned out shook ourselves and then took to our oars. In about half an hour a fine breeze sprang up and at 1/2 past 10 we reached Mr Downings house in Coromandel Harbour or Wai Eo. Our first enquiry was for the Brig which Mr Downing assured us had been in and sailed again adding that no boat had ever been to his place or had any enquiry been made of him concerning us. We now crossed the Bay to Mr Moores house in search of further information and finding none returned to Mr Downings who welcomed us with the greatest kindness. The boat was unloaded & sent in chase of the Brig & we sat down to a capital dinner. At Night slept on the Floor.

10th Sunday. After breakfast Ed & I strolled about the bays & hills. Picked up a pretty shrub "Te Karo" 359 from which the Maories extract an oil which they highly esteem. The Bay swarmed with fish but unfortunately I had lost my Kawai Hooks by the breaking of my line. Near Mr Downings is a singular rock a kind of Conglomerate of Volcanic & Aqueous rocks imbedded in a sandy clay. It is difficult to arrive at any just idea of its formation. Walking, reading, Talking & Smoaking passed the day. At

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10 we retired. During the day Ed Sd gave the following concise definition of the New Zealanders, A Nation who cultivate War, Pork & Potatoes and chew - each other.

11th After breakfast having borrowed a boat without oars from Mr Downing & padd[l]ed across the Bay. Until this I had never formed a correct Idea of the power of the Paddle. Our three lads paddled and one of us steered and the boat went fully as fast as she would have done with a pair of oars. We first called at Pokiori of which Pa Tawaroa is the leading Chief the Fences had been rebuilt and doubled and all the Canoes were drawn up within the Enclosure. Enquiring the reason for these precautions they said that being Xstians and having refused to assist Taraia they feared an attack from him and had prepared accordingly. They especially called my attention to their having cleared a Mangrove swamp which surrounds three sides of the Pa lest the bushes should give cover to an Enemy. From thence a pleasant walk of a mile and a half through some good land brought us to "Pirita" whose people were also busy building a New stockade. Puata their Chief an intelligent young man said that he had shortly before recieved a Message from Taraia to the effect that he had heard that the flesh of a Baptized Maori was "very sweet". He observed that of late the Maories had become as a litter of dogs who forgot their common source and fought amongst themselves. In his opinion war would only be stopped by one of two measures either all the Maories must become Xstianized or else that the Soldiers must take in hand the refractory. Pokiori is nearly encircled by a swampy ditch and has a flanking fire. Shaking hands with our new friend we returned to our boat and reached Mr Downings at four.

12th At daylight one of the Boys reported that the Brig had arrived but had anchored as far from us as she possibly could. Fearing that she might be off again Mr Shortland sent off two of the boys in a little canoe with a note to the Capt. In returning they upset the canoe yet managed to deliver a packet of letters perfectly dry.

Before starting we endeavoured to prevail on Mr Downing to accept some recompence for his kindness (for Truly our party consisting of four hungry white men and three Mauries was no slight tax) but Mr Downing would not hear of it but begged us to return. Parting with real regret from our kind hearted hospitable friend we embarked in the Brig & sailed for Tauronga. Capt Richards said that this was his third visit to Wai Eo in search of us - that his second was on Sunday when he enquired at Mr Moores & was told that the Pinace had sailed and immediately weighed anchor and returned to Auckland. All this delay was occasioned by his not having recieved proper instructions in the first instance. The wind being foul and the weather threatening after a couple of boards we took shelter under Wai Heke. During the night it blew a heavy Gale.

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13th Weather fine, wind fair & moderate. Weighed at sunrise. At noon passed Cape Colvil with a strong breeze and a reef in our topsails. Off the Cape lies a conical rock celebrated in the Rurerure

Running down the coast passed close to the Islands Hausey Mercury Aldermans Mayor &c - and at Night shortened sail at times laying to.

14th The harbour of Tauronga is so remarkable that it cannot by any possibillity be mistaken. At its immediate entrance the S. E. head rises into a conical hill 361 with a flat top of a very considerable elevation all the coast to the N. W. being low for at least 15 miles and about 12 miles off lies the island of Kawera. Sighting Mounganui the hill mentioned at daylight we beat in with close reefed Topsails against a strong Gale having the flood tide in our favour at half tide carrying in four fathoms. As the harbour was little known when inside Capt Richards let go his anchor in 10 fathoms. We had not long been anchored when a Canoe boarded us containing some of the people who had escaped from Taraia two of whom had been wounded one of them severely in the hand and thigh. The Canoe one of the best constructed I ever saw came down in capital style against a powerful tide her crew twenty in number keeping time to the waving of a battle axe dressed with feathers. Shortly after Mr Browns (the resident Missionary) six oared boat arrived & we all went on shore 362 & were speedily introduced to Mr Brown & a yahoo yclept Miss Baker. Mr Brown having told us off to our respective Quarters Sd & Mr Clarke being allotted rooms in his house & Ed & I having the old dwelling of Mr Stack assigned to us we went to dinner and then amused ourselves untill tea wandering about. I observed that the Maories had adopted a system of imperfect Intrenchment as their system of Fortification probably owing to the nature of the ground & the deficiency of timber fit for Stockades. A river near the East Cape is said to abound with recent remains of the Moa. From the size of the bones found it is inferred that this singular & I may say unknown bird stands sixteen feet high a probable

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exageration there is also a report that lately two settlers in Cloudy bay recieved information that one of these giants nightly came down from the hills to feed in a neighbouring swamp and armed with a rifle & Double Gun resolved on his death or capture but as the story goes on his appearance so appaled were our sportsmen that one said to the other Shall I fire No said the other for Gods sake dont or he will trample us to atoms and the Moa was suffered to return unmolested to the hills.

15th In the morning the weather was dull & showery and so it continued during the greater part of the day. In order to give time the meeting was postponed until the next day Messengers having been despatched to summon all the Chiefs on the previous evening. In the afternoon the Brig worked in and let go her anchor opposite Otu Maitai. 363 The Country round Tauronga for a distance of at least Ten miles is devoid of wood the first forest occurring on the road to Rotorua in which valuable timber abounds. I am of opinion that the whole of the Plains around Tauronga were once wooded but that the trees gave way to agriculture in the days when Tribes inhabiting the Bay of Plenty were in their glory. The whole appearance of the country the size of its remaining Pa's the ruins of Native forts all bespeak a time when Tauronga swarmed with thousands of Warriors and when its people were among the great of the land.

I have said that the country is level and the soil is light apparently calculated both for grazing and agriculture but it is within the bounds of probabillity that owing to its open nature it may be much exposed to the Gales of wind.

The formation of the District of Tauronga is remarkable & a good subject for Geological speculation. It is intersected by three arms of the sea one of which Katikati cuts off nearly twenty miles of the coast the other two flow directly inland towards Roto Rua where they nearly meet at a point said to be about ten miles from the Missionary Station. 364 At times in the prosecution of the war the Roto Rua Natives pull down these rivers if so they may be called fire on the Tauronga Pa's and then passing out of the harbour make for Mukatu.

In the course of the Evg the possibility of teaching English to the Mauries was canvassed recieving from our two Missionary friends a decided negative. The conversation afterwards turned on the ancient Mauri customs their religion and their propitiating certain evil spirits whom they believed to exercise an influence over their destiny. Naturally

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expecting some information from men whose intercourse with the Mauri had for years been on so familiar a footing the question was asked Do you know the Incantation used to propitiate the Spirit of the Storm and answered Some trash or the other which we never troubled ourselves to learn. Would it be thought possible that a class of men could exist so wrapped up in themselves as to be indifferent to the ancient customs of so interesting a race as the Maori or so dense so blinded by their own Superstition as not to percieve the value of their ancient religious forms in determining the country from which they migrated to this land.

Ed S. & I held a soiree during which we collected the following songs

2nd

3rd

4th

(Marginal Note--The Tauronga Natives in their dialect omit the G which renders their language much softer than that of the other tribes. From whence this difference? May we not seek the solution of this Problem in the Tradition of the three canoes which transported the Ancestors of the Present Maori race to this country.)

16th. After Breakfast Ed S & I amused ourselves watching the Mauries coming to the Korero. At first they were seen by twos and threes wading across the mouth of the creek which is fordable at low water. Afterwards their numbers increased and as by that time the tide had commenced flowing they sat down & lighting a fire awaited their turn to be ferried over. About noon Tupaiea and Te Mutu two principal chiefs arrived in their canoes with about sixty followers. These were the more immediate

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relations of Whanake & Pai Tuhi and mostly Heathens. Ed Sd & I met them on the beach shaking hands with the Chiefs - we were now summonsed to dinner and that over proceeded to bussiness. After a war Dance on the beach Tupaieas party came into a field near the Mission House & after a few preliminary capers they seated themselves opposite to the Mission party. Mr Clarke now opened the conference by saying something to this effect You have sent to the Governor for his assistance in arranging this Quarrel & he has sent Mr Shortland to enquire into it. Nothing important occurred until the letter was spoken of when Te Mutu arose & denied the truth of this report which he explained saying That Taraia had sent him the following articles as a present 2 shirts one red & one striped a pair of Breeches a Comb & a Catouche box a letter accompanied this present, That He distrusted Te Raias purpose and returned him an answer to that effect. He denied his relationship saying that Taraia had several times attempted his life & had destroyed most of his family. Having thus vindicated his character Te Mutu sat down. 366

Various persons now spoke and then Mr Clarke was called on to explain our proceedings at Hourake & the views of Govt which he did at some length & thereon arose a fierce discussion All denying that Taraia had any claim to the land where he had cut off their friends demanding an Utu for their dead & scouting the idea of selling the disputed territory to the Govt. One man in a most fiery speech said I will never sell my land I will sit there & if Taraia comes I will kill & eat him for he is a bad man.

Mr Clarke - Will you eat Him?

Yes I will!!

Another gentleman equally violent after describing in a most graphic manner the numerous bad actions of Taraia concluded thus but I - I am a good man good good exceeding good. Does not this violence prove the necessity of the Most energetic measures on the part of the Govt in order to stop these disastrous wars. The Heathen party now arose and left abruptly firing shots as they retired and shortly after the meeting was adjourned until Monday.

Spying a man in a red blanket we ascertained that he was a priest and forthwith claimed his friendship with a view of extracting from him some information with regard to his religion. He said that he would willingly write for us some of his incantations but that if we put the book in which they were written where food was kept that he would certainly die. We now enticed him to our house & presented some Tobacco in return for

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which he promissed to give us some of the less important karakias. 367 A Taboed stick had been sent to Mukatu we enquired who had taken it what form had been used in rendering it sacred & what was its use. He answered that he had Taboed and carried it but that he must not repeat the words he had used that the stick was laid across the path by which it was expected a war Party would pass to attack them and that should any of the party tread on the stick that those men would certainly fall. We were now called to Tea - the evening we employed making up our books and comparing notes.

The letter of Wakaraka which accompanied Taraias present to te Mutu - 368

Te Mutu's answer (verbal) sent by Taraias slave Mahuki--

17th Sunday. Breakfast over Ed Sd Mr Clarke & I visited Otu Maitai the main stronghold of the People of Tauronga it is situated on the Katikati about 1 1/2 miles from the Mission house. Part of the Pa is on the sea beach and part on the top of a cliff or steep bank 40 feet high. By its position naturally strong it is rendered more secure by a strong palisade and on the land side & flanks it is further protected by a deep and wide Ditch having a Stockade on its exterior side. Moreover the level of the exterior plain is somewhat lower than that of the Pa. Where it well

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defended its intricacy alone would render it formidable but at present there are not men in it to defend one fifth of its great extent. Nowhere have I seen so great a number of fine Canoes the care with which they preserve their fishing nets was also worthy of remark every net being placed on a little elevated platform and then securely thatched over.

The diversity of the occupations of the people were striking about fifty persons men women & children were gathered round Mr Clarke who performed service. Others surrounded a Catholic Priest with whom we exchanged a few words. A formal Tangie lead by Te Mutu bewailed the loss of their relatives and again others were playing at draughts nor was the haka (which sounded merrily from the further end of the Pa) wanting to complete the Medley.

In a small enclosure in front of his house we found our friend the Priest squatting on the Ground he was at that time strictly taboed none daring to enter within a certain distance of his sacred person the limits of which were defined by a few bushes stuck in the ground. Seeing that we hesitated he invited us to come near to him and take our seats within the forbidden Pale. He said that he had written for us some minor incantations & would write some of a higher Character when he had consumed his days food but that to do this he must go without the precincts of the Pa. We saw the wives of Pai Tuhi & Whanake who were among those who had escaped from Kati Kati. One Chief who intended returning to the disputed ground requested me to send him one soldier as his friend He had no doubt but that with such assistance he would be able to set Taraia at defiance. In the sides of the ditch were Kumera stores similar to those I had seen at Taupo.

By noon we returned and after an English service Ed S. & I walked along the banks of the river until opposite Mounga Tapu 369 which Pa we intended to visit but failed in making the people hear although we halloed ourselves Hoarse. In Evg wrote Journal.

Memo The younger son of a high family is usually chosen as a Priest but is not initiated in the mysteries of his Craft until he has attained a certain age. It is a situation of honor but also of much discomfort & even Privation.

18th Up at 1/2 past six and at nine shoved off in the Brigs boat for Mounga Nui which we ascended in about 20 minutes. The day was remarkably clear and the view we obtained from the summit highly interesting & extensive. To the S. W. the sacred mountain of Tarawera was distinctly visible though at a distance of at least fifty miles. Looking along the coast we distinctly saw Cape Runaway on one side and the high land near Cape Colvil on the other. Extensive plains extended some 20 miles up and

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down the coast running back to the hills towards Rotorua but the most striking object was White Island (-----) 370 enveloped in a cloud of smoke or vapour. Mounga Nui was formerly occupied by the Tauronga people but some few years since those of Rotorua came down and slaughtered the whole party before they could obtain assistance. It is said that they remained on Mounga Nui three days during which they had several skirmishes with their enemies nor did they depart untill they had devoured the bodies of all their victims. One tale hardly to be credited is that one of their Chiefs finding his position cold used every night to cross and sleep at one of the Pas and in the morning return to fight and that this he was suffered to do unmolested.

Whilst Capt. Richards was making some observations I collected different specimens of the Stone of which the hill is composed I have not as yet been able to discover their nature suffice it to say that the Texture is sufficiently firm for building.

My companions delayed so much that we did not reach the Mission Station untill all the interesting part of the Korero was over. The Mauries had become more tractable and were quite satisfied that the Govt should interfere. One old chief at length said to another Shall I tell the great secret & then without leaving time to reply turned to Mr Clarke saying we have consented to sell the land but remember that it is a secret so do not say a word about it but come quickly back to us. In the meantime they agreed that the disputed territory should be left in abeyance and unoccupied.

Our friend the Priest now presented us with the promissed manuscript & one of our travelling companions gave Ed Sd & myself the most pressing invitations to visit them again Nor must I forget to add that a fine tract of country was offered for Sale as a scite for a Colony. Thus ended the negociations at Tauronga.

Taking leave of Mr Brown & his family we walked to our boat & shoved off amidst loud cries of Go to your friend the Governor at Auckland to which we replied we will go to our friend the Governor of all of us which repartee (for so it was when expressed in Maori) occasioned a hearty laugh & gave much satisfaction to this singular people who three days before would not have heard it without visible displeasure. About 4 P.M. weighed with a light breeze and the ebb tide carrying four fathoms over the outside flat the water gradually deepening to 15 fathoms at three miles from shore.

19th Little or no wind crept up as far as the Mercury Islands inside which we passed without seeing the sunken rock reported to lie in that Passage. The water was perfectly alive with shoals of Porpoises darting about in every direction no doubt rejoicing in the fineness of the weather.

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20th Found ourselves inside Cape Colvil little wind all day at night anchored off Wai Heke.

21st Weighed at dawn. Wind foul tried to make Taraias but the weather became so thick and threatening that with much reluctance Mr Shd ordered the vessel to be put about and at 3 P.M. in a heavy Gale we reached Auckland.

August 27th 1842 - Hardly had I set my foot in the Barracks when to my utter astonishment I was informed the Governor had given up the bones of the Murderer Mukatu. It is difficult to say what were the reasons of his Excellency for so doing having in the first instance refused his body and afterwards his bones to the intreaties of Mukatus relatives and still more extraordinary that such a step should have been taken in the Absence of the Chief Protector. Whatever the reasons may have been the Maories do not hesitate to affirm that Fear of their vengeance if the bones were longer detained was the true cause. The disinterment of the body is described as a most disgusting scene the Arms head & legs being wrenched from the Putrid body by a Priest especially Taboed for the occasion the flesh was then stripped from the bones and thrown into the coffin while the latter were placed in a box prepared for the occasion and removed to the Bay of Islands.

My friend Ed Shortland has been appointed a Police Magistrate and Protector of Aborigines for the District of Tauranga. 371 Two days ago he sailed for the Gulf of Houraki and the Wai Ho there to commence his labours - never was a person more eminently calculated to perform the Duties of his Office. Agitation has been busy to the infinite detriment of the Colony every thing is at a stand and the future bears a most gloomy aspect. Winter is fading away the weather has been fine & open our only pleasure. Yesterday Colonel Godfrey sailed for the Bay of Islands.

The Governor has had a severe attack of illness his life was despaired of but he rallied and is now slowly recovering. This is a brief Catalogue of Events for the last month.

Septr 10th The Govnr Expired this morning between one and two - I have no doubt that the perpetual harrassing he underwent hastened this melancholy event. He is to be buried on Tuesday the 14th with such honors as can be afforded. All the morning the Barrack Gun and the vessels in the harbour have fired at intervals of a minute the shipping are in Mourning the flags half mast and everything has a saddened aspect.

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Septr 14th We bore the Poor Governor to his last home today at two oclock. The Coffin was born by sailors most of whom had served in men of war. Our entire Detacht formed the firing party although not a third in number to which he was entitled by rank. As I had on occasion acted as A. D. C. Mr Shortland requested me to act on this occasion, and also that I should arrange the Funeral which I willingly did and thus had an opportunity of rendering the last service which my kind friend would ever require at my hands. The Funeral was attended by all respectable persons in & about Auckland.

Septr 20th Turned my horse out and addressed myself to boat sailing in the jolly boat of the Yacht Albatross. The Master of this vessel is an exceedingly good natured person and gives me capital lessons and the boat is first rate.

22nd Accompanied a party of Ladies to the Volcanic Island of Rangi Toto. Leaving Auckland at 8 A.M. an hours sail brought us to the landing place where having unloaded our boat and got a "Hangi" under weigh we attempted to climb the Mountain. This the Ladies soon found to be impracticable the sharp scoriae cutting their shoes all to pieces. We were therefore obliged to return without accomplishing our object. The Formation of Rangi Toto is most singular it is literally nothing but a mass of scoriae the Peak rising to an elevation of --- feet. 372 From its appearance I should conceive that it had been formed by a succession of eruptions but I had not an opportunity of making an accurate examination having the Ladies to attend to. After a most substantial Lunch we waited an hour for the Tide to rise and then a pleasant pull of an hour and a half brought us to Auckland. We now all adjourned to the House of Mr Berrey 373 where we decided that as we had not consumed all our viands that the party should assemble at noon the next day.

23rd Our Ladies were so late that we did not get away until near two and therefore determined to go no further than Mount Victoria. 374 Having easily effected the ascent we looked long and in vain for a Ship and then hastened down as the heavens assumed rather a threatening aspect. By the time we reached the ground where we had predetermined to lunch our appetites were all in good order and the remains of Pies Fowls hams puddings Curacoa and other good things rapidly disappeared. The two

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Picnics were pronounced undeniable. Returned to Auckland, between six and seven and dined with Mr Shortland.

Octr 3rd The Brig Julia arrived from the Bay of Islands having on board Ens Welman and the Detacht 80th Rgt which had been recalled from that Station.

5th The Cricket match between the Garrison and Civilians of Auckland came off at Epsom. There was some good play on both sides but the Garrison got terribly licked with 10 wickets to go down. A Bye match was then played and the whole party returned in high spirits. Spent the Evg on board the Julia sleeping on board the Albatross. On Board the Julia was a Seaman from Tahiti. One Evg he had occasion to come to my whare when I detained him for a couple of hours I found him good natured & communicative and so little difference existed between Tahitian & Maori that we found no difficulty in conversing and in the course of the Evg he informed me that he knew an Island in the South Seas called "Owahou" of which the ancient name was Hawaike or as he pronounced it Hawaite but as he made the same difference in all words instance Tangata ke - Tanata te - I think myself warranted in believing that I have at last discovered the modern native name of the Island mentioned in Tradition by the Maories as that from whence their race was derived. On reference to Murrays Encyclopoedia of Geography I find that in the Sandwich Group is an Island called Oahu or Woahoo. Now as my information was given me by an Tahitian I do not consider the difference in the othography of any moment and would at once decide that the two names were synonymous but I have further proof to bring I find that another Island of the same Group is called Maui or Mawee. Who has not heard of Mawe the Ancestor of the New Zealander and what is more probable that that the Land of their Birth should have been by a pleasing fiction handed down by Tradition as their great Father. 375 Moreover the appearance of the Natives of the Sandwich Islands accords with that of the New Zealander and further the Position of these Islands accords with the position assigned to Hawaike in the Tradition.

9th The long expected Immigrant ships the Jane Gifford and the Duchess of Argyll having on board 561 Immigrants from Grenock arrived today. 376

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The Duchess owing to the carelessness of the Harbour Master took the Ground outside the North head but was got off without sustaining any injury. The only news they bring is that they will shortly be followed by others from London.

11th The Immigrants landing, Auckland in a ferment. Instead of being a miserable set of Weavers as represented they are mostly able men Labourers Mechanics &c &c. They are to be worked on the roads until better occupation is to be found at from 2s to 2-6 per Diem.

16th New arrivals working and contented the Older hands in better Spirits. Amused myself boating and fishing.

22nd Went away in a small boat to see a sick Maori coming back came on to blow had given a passage to two Maories but owing to one of them getting frightened, we shipped so heavy a sea that we were compelled to put back abandon the boat & come home overland. The next morning 5 A.M. I went out & brought home the boat. The Weather has been worse since the arrival of the Immigrants than it has been during the whole winter we have had constant gales with Thunder & heavy rain.

25 Weather appears better. The St George arrived with upwards of 90 boys from 14 to 20 years of age. These lads have all been convicted of various crimes at an early age and have been worked at an establishment which I suppose may be called a penitentiary in the Isle of Wight. Their conduct having been good and their having been qualified to form useful members of Society instead of turning them again amongst their old associates they have been allowed to volunteer to come to this country, Many being free as soon as landed and others having to perform a certain term of apprenticeship. Amongst them are tradesmen & Mechanics of all sorts and some have been brought up to Agriculture. Their conduct on the voyage is said to have been admirable and nothing could have exceeded their clean & regular appearance when landed.

Novr In this Month Mr Spain returned from Port Nicholson accompanied by Colonel Wakefield. It appears that a change has come over the spirit of the dream of our Southern neighbours so much for the better. About the ----- Ed Shortland returned from an excursion up the Wai Ho accompanied by Te Poepoe 377 the head of all Wai Kato being

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Grandfather to Te Wherowhero he resides at Matta Matta & is anxious to have Europeans on his land proposing to sell a large tract to the Govt. Moreover he wishes to put an end to fighting but when he talks of this he has a way of knawing & sucking his fingers which is to say the least disagreeable.

23rd Recd letters from England. One fine day Albion Cricket Club beat the Kent. Lent Monops to a Gentleman to take a ride Monops threw him and then getting into a swamp full of Scoriae has I fear ruined himself. Friend after great professions of wishing to stand the brunt of the damage behaved shy so Much for lending horses. 378

28th Monops doing well at first took a large quantity of blood from him Next slung him bandaged his leg & applied cooling lotions. 27th took 2 pts of Blood from Plate vein - Bad sprain of Near fore leg at the Knee fetlock much cut and numerous small bruises & cuts. Was to have embarked today for The Barrier Island - to much rain.

A Proposed visit to the Great Barrier Island Tauronga and Port Nicholson in Suite of His Excellency the Acting Governor.

Novr 29th 1842. Embarked on board the Govt Brig Victoria at 1/2 past 5 A.M. The Vessel was in a most crowded state our party consisting of His Excellency the Act Govnr & Lady Mr Ed Shortland - Mr Spain and several junior Govt Officers making the Cabin party eleven in number besides whom we had a large party of Maories a great quantity of Trade three horses and a cow & Calf, the trade and animals being payment for Tracts of Land partly purchased in the Valley of the Thames. Weighing anchor with a light breeze from the Westward we cleared the heads at 9 P.M. and after a pleasant run anchored in Nagles Cove 379 in the Barrier Island at

30th 5 A.M. After Breakfast Mr Bowen from H.M.S.S. Tortoise 380 came along side with the Gig which he placed at Mr Sds disposal for a visit to the Copper mine which is situated some five or six miles from the Entrance of the Harbour & to the [north]. 381 In our pull we in several

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places observed traces of Ore in the Cliffs and on approaching the spot where operations have been commenced the whole face of the Cliff was tinged a bright green. We landed in a small bay where we met Mr Taylor & some other Gentlemen connected with the Mine who gave us a capital lunch and then accompanied us to where their People were at work. The vein on which their experiments are being made completely perforates a small headland the ore dug out has every appearance of containing a vast percentage of Metal and traces of it are seen in every direction many of the green spots being of large extent and 70 or 80 feet high in the Cliffs but a drawback exists in the exposed situation of the mine which would render a breakwater necessary for its successful working but I do not doubt that should sufficient Capital be raised that it will prove a most profitable investment.

On our way back we pulled into a cave we had noticed when going out. The roof resembled a vast fluted dome and the extent of the chamber was such that our boat a six oared gig easily turned round in it. It now began to rain & we hastened back to the Brig.

The main harbour is situated on the [west] side of the Island (Aotea) it is known as Nagles Cove & I am not aware that it has any other name it is perfectly landlocked and capacious with sufficiently deep water close to the shore. On the ----- side is Hobsons Harbour which is described as secure from most winds but open to the Sea. Aotea is 20 miles long by from 10 to 3 wide is mountainous towards the N. W. but more level at its other extremity it contains much fine timber is said to contain a lake and its shores abound with fish including the Hapuku. Here Moprau was defeated by the Mauries from Hauraki and a canoe captured capable of containing nearly 100 men the cause of the Quarrel appears to have been as follows - Moprau with a body of Nga Puhi (80 men) was proceeding to the Southward on an expedition (Coromandel Harbour) and landed on Aotea here he plundered and ill treated its few inhabitants to such an extent that one of them ventured across to Wai Au for assistance. Moprau entrenched behind his canoes fought like a "Pakeha" and his party tho inferior in numbers being better supplied with fire arms beat off the assailants several times. At length Horita Chief of the men from Wai Au calling on his men to follow him threw away his Musquet and tomahawk in hand leaped the breast work a general slaughter followed Moprau & five others only escaping by flight. 382

Decr 1st Weighed at 8 A. M. The wind being foul we passed round by North End of Aotea. Winds light & variable.

2nd Wind light lay down Coast.

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3rd Anchored in the outer harbour of Tauronga at 8 A. M. Shortly after our arrival canoes came alongside the People in a state of great excitement they said that the Natives from Maketu had made an attack on Tuhua & murdered several of its inhabitants and loudly demanded that justice should be done them. At one stood into the Inner Harbour and then attempted to get the truth of the matter which may be briefly related thus

Two European traders (Pig dealers) accompanied by two men Maories & a boy from Maketu put into Katikati in a small Vessel and plundered some provision grounds the scene of the Murder of Wanaki by Taraia. The place by native law and the Potatoes were highly sacred blood having been so recently spilt there. The People of Katikati surprized the thieves in the act siezed the boat stripped the white men and would no doubt have killed the Maories had they not saved themselves by flight.

Two days afterwards Mr James Farrow was driven into Katikati by stress of weather, Tangaroa and the other man went to him and begged a passage to Maketu also protection lest they should be murdered. They told their story & said that they had lost the Boy who had been murdered. Farrow took them on board treated them with kindness & said that he

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was not immediately going to Mukatu but to Tairua from whence he would take them home. They remained with him two days and then watching an opportunity siezed the Vessel & sailed to Maketu calling out to Farrow who was on shore that he was going to Maketu & that if Farrow would bring the boy to Maketu that he should have his boat - on arriving at Maketu Tangaroa raised a war party and sailing to Tuhua induced the people of the Island who although related to those at Katikati were quite ignorant of what had happened to send off a canoe. This he allowed to come alongside threw a rope and as soon as it was made fast and some of its crew attempted to board the Vessel he and his party fired upon them killing -----. 383 Those in the canoe upset it & attempted to escape by swimming but Tangaroa righted the Canoe & took 2 of them whom he conveyed to Maketu along with the dead the latter were immediately cooked and eaten and the former reserved for a future occasion when the Kumeras should become ripe. One young chief escaped by his extraordinary presence of mind divesting himself of his blanket which floated with the tide he dived in the opposite direction and thus reached the shore although severely wounded.

The success of the Tuhua expedition greatly disheartened the people of Tauronga and a trifling circumstance added greatly to the general depression. Mr Wood Commg Tortoise being in the Harbour in a small craft one night burned a blue light the Maories terrified ran to their Priests for a solution of the wonderous appearance who not less alarmed and equally ignorant declared that It was a sign from the Atua of the approaching annihialation of their Tribe. Thus matters stood when we entered Tauronga.

4th Sunday. Went on shore to the Mission station to Mr Shortland where it was determined that the following day Mr E Shortland & I with Mr Clarke Junr as Interpreter should proceed to Maketu accompanied by Mr Farrow The object in sending me was that I might make myself acquainted with the Place It being Mr Sds intention to recover the boat & obtain possession of Tangaroa's person using force to attain his object should fair means fail. Introduced to Mr & Mr Kissling 384 with whom I was favorably impressed. Slept in Tent.

5th I was ready to go away at sunrise but the party delayed from one cause or another untill nine. This as it happened was of little consequence

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the tide turning to run out just as we reached the Beach along which the greater part of our road ran. After walking about nine miles we halted at a stream for a few minutes 385 and then resuming our route in the course of an other mile met a Catholic Priest I never remember seeing a more miserable figure - Travel worn unshaven & unwashed he wore the tri-cornered hat of his order, his long coat & a kind of black petticoat were tucked up with the Skirts under the waistband and a pair of Old Wellington boots were drawn over his Trousers. From his neck hung a large crucifix and on his back was a kind of sack containing in every probabillity all he possessed in the world. He was returning to Tauronga which place he had left 3 weeks before and had left Rotorua for Maketu on Saturday. As our conversation naturally turned to the late disturbances the Priest informed us that Tangaroa not contented with his work at Tuhua was preparing his vessel for an attack on Tauronga and that he expected to see him come out every minute and that he was in haste to advertise the people of Tauronga of his coming. Detaining my informant for a few minutes I wrote a hasty note to Mr Nagle Commg the Brig Victoria requesting him to be prepared in case Tangaroa should make his appearance we then proceeded on our respective ways. Two miles further brought us to "Te Tumu" formerly the scite of a Pah alternately in the possession of Nga ti Wakaue & Nai ti Rangi it was finally taken and destroyed by the former. 386 The River Kai Tuna flows past it from Roto Rua it appears formerly to have emptied itself into the sea here by 387 the Channel is now sanded up and its Embochure is at Maketu - to deprive Maketu of water & Eels with which this river abounds Nai ti Rangi endeavoured to reopen the ancient channel but without effect. We now reached the bank of Wai Tuna opposite Maketu and a canoe instantly shoved across to us - on landing I was recognized & my presence proclaimed by loud shouts of He Hoea, He Hoea, Mr Clarke now enquired for the Chiefs and being told that they were all present in the Pah sent a message requesting them to assemble.

In a few minutes the messenger returned saying that the Chiefs had assembled. We immediately went to them and Mr Clarke opened the bussiness by saying that Nai ti Rangi had complained to the Governor of the murder at Tuhua but not wishing to judge hastily he had sent us to hear what they [had] to say in extenuation of their conduct.

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Tohi 388 father now spoke. In the main his story exactly tallied with that we had heard at Tauronga but he said that Tangaroa & the Maories were not aware that the ground at Katikati was Tapued but had been taken there by the white men. 389 He insisted that his son had been murdered and eaten by Nai ti Rangi and that the attack on Tuhua was under those circumstances perfectly justifiable he moreover denied that the Govt had any right to interfere in the case saying that neither he or any of his tribe had ever ceded their rights to the Queen nor would they do so and added that eat their ennemies they would that there were plenty of Pigs for the white men but that he preferred the flesh of his fellows. Pongi 390 and others also spoke and amongst them Nga Moni 391 - Mr Clarke now told them that the Govt would put down the system of private Warfare and demanded that the boat should be given up. This they refused to do although Pongi & others wished to do so but they were overruled. They said let the Govt & soldiers come that they knew how to die adding that should we attempt to enter Maketu that we should be food for the fish. Finding that little could be done with them whilst the[y] remained in this Temper (no doubt caused by excitement) we broke up the Meeting reminding them that the Govnr was at Tauronga with a Man of War as they called the Victoria and that a word from him would bring the Soldiers from Auckland.

We now adjourned to the School house which was placed at our disposal. 392 My readers may wonder at there being such an establishment amongst so savage a people but even here a number of natives profess Xtian doctrines. A Number of these soon crowded about us and among them was an intelligent young man who had lately returned from England whither he had gone from Port Nicholson in the Ship London at the time

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I was at that Settlement. He spoke English very fairly and expressed himself highly gratified by the kindness he had experienced from the Rangatira's at home. Hearing a considerable disturbance without we enquired the cause & found that already two parties had sprung up one of which were anxious to give up the boat whilst the other would not hear of such a proposal and so high did party spirit run that they nearly came to blows. Pongi the principal man in the place headed the tractable part of Maketu & Tangaroa was his great opponent. Tangaroa had not shewn at the meeting.

6th Having breakfasted with two White men Traders who resided in Maketu & who shewed us every kindness in their power we again met the Chiefs at the Council house and certainly a vast change had come over the Majority 393 even Tohi consented to remain quiet and when again pressed on his cannibal propensities said that he would not in future eat men he said we do not like it but do so from revenge as we conceive that it is the greatest insult we can offer an enemy he also added that they would give up the boat at some future time but as Tangaroa had hauled her up and had declared that he would remove her to Rotorua we did not think much of his promise. He begged that one of us would return when the Govnr had decided on the course that he would pursue and said to Mr Clark If those dogs were yours meaning my two spaniels which were greatly admired I would detain them as hostages for your return. He wished us to remain 'till next day but as we declined a canoe was manned and we recrossed the river parting as good friends as could be expected.

As Mr Shortlands principal reason for sending me down was that I might make myself acquainted with the Position & defences of Maketu I made the best use of my time in acquiring information on this head and the results of my observations are as follows - The river Kai Tuna empties itself into the bay of Plenty under a bluff headland on the Eastern side whilst the Western coast as far as Mounga nui a distance of about 16 or 17 miles is one uninterrupted sandy beach. At the entrance of the river is a bar navigable at high water for vessels of ----- Tons but at times the surf is very heavy. Inside the bar the river is ---- wide. (Marginal Note--The site of the Pah is a spur or under feature of the main headland.) The Pah is situated below and on a bank of some 40 feet high about - inside the headland and the river is fordable at low water a few hundred yards above it. The Stockade of the Pah is indifferent nor did I see any ditch. Towards the rear face where the

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ground is level and open the Pah is slightly elevated above the exterior ground and there is an attempt at a scarp. A Favorable Landing place offers on the right Flank of the Pah and it may also be attacked from the opposite side of the headland where there is an other river about the same size as Kai Tuna the distance across being a quarter of an hour. My impression was that troops might enter the river in boats in favorable weather landing under cover of a fire of grape & canister the boats being too far from the headland & Pah for musquetry to be of much effect. Arrived at ship about 4 and immediately proceeded to the Mission Station to Mr Shortland where we arrived wet & tired. After communicating the result of our Mission His Excellency decided on sending me to Auckland for the Troops but left all ulterior determination until he had conferred with Major Bunbury.

7th Having recd my despatches embarked on board Victoria weighed anchor and dropped out with the Tide Wind right in our teeth at 4 P.M. Saw Yacht Albatross laying up coast apparently for Auckland. Determined no[t] to lose so good an opportunity of at least sending the despatches should it not be convenient to Mr Blackett to give me a passage I directed Mr Nagle Commr Victoria to make the signal to speak him this he did shewing his colors and firing a gun. The yacht taking no notice we fired a second and then she bore down for us but immediately hauled her wind again Capt Nagle now fired a shot across her bows & afterwards that there might be no mistake another right at her but Mr Blackett held his course and night coming on was soon out of sight. I will leave the R. Y. S. 394 to decide on Mr Blacketts conduct in thus refusing to speak a friendly vessel carrying Her Majestys Pennant.

8th & 9th Winds light & variable made little way.

10th Strong breezes with rain from S. E. After a fine run reached Auckland at 7 P.M. & landing immediately delivered despatches.

11th 12th & 13th Great was the excitement in Auckland when it was known that our little detacht was about to try their Strength with the Murderous Cannibals of Maketu and various were the opinions expressed some saying that we should be sacraficed and others that our opponents would not even make a stand. Admidst such a diversity of opinion it only remained with us to use every means in our power to ensure success. Tomahawks axes and bill Hooks were speedily prepared scaling ladders

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constructed Timber, sandbags, spades & pickaxes hastily shipped & Tents procured that we might not be houseless or unprepared in case entrenchments should be necessary. The Pinnace was fitted with a 6 Pr & sent in advance and last not least we were plentifully supplied with round Grape & Canister & about 18000 rounds of ball cartridge. On the Evg of the latter day we all embarked on board the Brig in high spirits.

Having heard that Joy one of the White men concerned in the robbery at Katikati had arrived in Auckland and had even made certain depositions Mr Spain & myself applied to the Police Magistrate to have him arrested and sent to Tauronga being aware that a warrant had been issued against him but the P.M. declined to do this but induced him to go on board the Brig. The result will be seen of this indecision and fear of incurring responsibillity.

14th Weighed anchor soon after daylight about noon a breeze sprang up & we anchored in Nagles cove at Midnight.

15th Soon after daylight Major Bunbury visited Mr Wood Commg Tortoise and explaining to him the nature of the service we were upon Mr Wood at once consented to afford him every assistance in his power and in the course of the forenoon we recieved on board a party of fifteen seamen commanded by Mr Woods son Two 18 Pr Carronades with the necessary amunition & a quantity of Signal rockets blue lights &c. The Schooner Three Bees was also ordered to proceed to Tairua to fetch a further reinforcement of fifteen Marines & the Master Mr Jeffries. We weighed again at noon & had proceeded some distance when Joy was missed on enquiry it appeared that in the confusion of recieving the stores &c he had slipped on shore no doubt having heard something which alarmed him. Had he been apprehended & sent on board of course he would have been properly secured as it was he was in no ones charge and walked off as he liked. Wind foul passed by North end of Barrier Island. Memo Under North hummock in the Little Barrier Island a small boat harbour is said to exist. Some great 395 was caused in the night by a sea breaking through the stern windows we were so crowded that some slept upon & others under the Cabin Table and as the sea walked across it was delightful to see the people tumbling up in their shirts.

16th Foul wind all day. In Evg sent Mr Wood on shore at Tai Rua with orders to Mr Jeffries lay on & off until eleven when Mr Wood returned & we made sail.

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17th Hd Wind all day. Beating to Windward near Mayor Island. The cliffs of this Island present a most singular appearance immense veins of ----- traversing them in parallel lines moreover they apparently abound in caves & holes.

18th Sunday. At Daylight about 8 miles from Mounga Nui at 9 A.M. Major Bunbury left the Brig in the Gig accompanied by Mr Bennett Lieut R. E. & Myself. At one we reached the Mission Station where we found that the Bishop & Judge had arrived 396 overland from Port Nicholson via Taranaki & the River Manawatu. The Brig entered the harbour & anchored under Mounga Nui about two. I remained at the Mission station & slept in Ed Shortlands Tent.

19th After Breakfast the Party dispersed in various directions Mr Freeman Pte Secretary went to the Brig with Official letters - Mr Clarke, Mr Ed Shortland & Mr Meurant to the different Pahs. It now appeared that Mr Clarke who had returned with me to Auckland had been entrusted with a warrant against Joy which he with that apathy which distinguishes all the younger branches of the Mission Families entirely neglected to use or ever to mention that he possessed such a document. Since my leaving Tauranga another disturbance had taken place. A Mauri Lad living with a Settler of the name of Brien enticed away a girl from Otu Moetai. Her friends siezed two canoes belonging to Brien as a Payment when Brien fired at them. Mr Ed Shortland went to investigate the case. 397 Two messengers arrived from Maketu whose people have become less belligerent seeing that the affair had taken a more serious turn than they had expected. Major B. was directed to disembark the Troops whom it was not intended to use immediately. This brought about a coolness between Major B. & Mr Shortland Adms Govt. I do not consider that the latter gentleman was to blame he had laid down for himself a line of conduct which the Law Authorities declared illegal and wrote to him to

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that effect. Mr Clarke C.P.A. also wrote to him protesting against the troops being employed. Thus hampered by those whose duty it was to have assisted him only one line of conduct & that diametrically opposed to his wishes was left him. 398 Had a long conversation with "Te Reanuku" an influential young Chief of Nga ti Waukaue one of the messengers who gave me a detailed account of the Quarrels of that tribe & Nai ti Rangi. It appears that many generations back Nai ti Rangi migrated from Poverty Bay driving Nga ti Waukaue from Maketu & Tauranga. That a partial peace followed which was again broken by Nai ti Rangi who murdered a woman of Nga ti Waukaue a peace was again brought about but Nga Puhi attacking Nga ti Waukaue Nai ti Rangi joined them but Nga Puhi having formed an alliance with Nga ti Waukaue Nai ti Rangi were attacked in turn by these two tribes & suffered severely they now called on Matta Matta & Nga Puhi having retired Nga ti Waukaue suffered severely. After this during a short cessation of hostilities Nai ti Rangi permitted Nga ti Waukaue to cultivate Motiti which after a time they refused to give up. Nai ti Rangi much weakened by other quarrels with the Thames Natives now got the worst of it & were driven from Maketu & the Tumu but retook the Tumu again with the assistance of Waharoa & the Matta Matta natives. They afterwards lost the Tumu where all their leading Warriors fell & from that day have gradually diminished in strength whilst their opponents have increased. The War degenerated into a system of petty murderings in which way it is carried on at present.

On one occasion Waharoa & his people came down and encamped at Otu Moetai where they as is usual with a war party helped themselves to what ever they thought proper & lived at their ease. The People of Otu Moetai seeing their food rapidly disappearing upbraided their allies saying that all they did was to consume their supplies being afraid to attack Maketu. Waharoa immediately marched to Maketu which he stormed & took & returning to Otu Moetai destroyed all their plantations & provision grounds saying that he would teach them how to treat their friends. The people of the Pah fearing to resent such conduct or to resist so powerful a friend were content to look quietly on glad to escape so easily.

20th In the Forenoon Major Bunbury came on shore to be present at a meeting of Chiefs &c convened at The Papa. Nothing different from the previous assemblies occurred except the violent feeling exhibited against one of the Messengers who they plainly told That he ought to be murdered. Reanuku made a capital speech (he is a young Chief of considerable abilities) in which he charged on Nai ti Rangi that they were the first aggressors and had all along been the main promoters of the war he was

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heard with much more patience than his companion whom they would hardly suffer to speak atall. The Meeting over The Messengers accompanied Mr Ed Shortland on board the Pinace Mr Spain & Mr Bennett joined the party and they sailed for Maketu it not being deemed safe to allow them to return to Maketu by Land lest they should fall victims to Nai ti Rangi. I returned to the Brig. Poepoe arrived from Matamata and openly said that it appeared to him that the Govnr did not intend to give any satisfaction to his children & that being the case he would return to his place raise his people and avenge them himself.

21st All Busy disembarking and forming our camp which the Major decided should be formed under Hopu Keore a small hill about 1/3 of a mile from Mounga nui. The Natural advantages of the Position were considerable a sort of Natural Fleche protecting us towards the sea and a sentry on the hill having a commanding view on one side down the coast almost to Maketu and on the other of the greater part of the harbour of Tauronga. At first we experienced some difficulty in obtaining a supply of water but this we remedied by sinking wells. In the Evg the Party returned from Maketu bringing with them one of the Maories. The surf was too heavy for the Pinace to enter Maketu but Te Tipitipi 399 jumped into the sea carrying his Shirt in his hand and swam ashore. Ed Shortland having expressed his intention of accompanying Hakaria part of the way to Maketu I volunteered to accompany him. We started between 10 & 11 and after we had walked about four miles Hakaria said that he was now safe that Nai ti Rangi would not go further down the beach however we determined to go on to Wai Raki to make all sure & get some water. This put our charge in high spirits and we rattled along the beach laughing & talking & listening to his accounts of past days. At length we arrived at Wai Raki where unfortunately a late gale had barred up the mouth of the stream and breaking over had made the water so brackish that it was impossible to drink it so we lit a fire and lay down to take a consolitary pipe. After resting half an hour I roused my companions who had fallen asleep and we again set out, our friend for Maketu and we on our return reaching the Brig soon after sunrise.

22nd Continued our works - the Mechanics soon ran up a good wooden barrack for the men & we pitched our Tents. The feud between the Major & Act Govnr ran high and appeared taking a serious turn I became involved in it but the less a Soldier says on these matters the

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better. 400 Slept on shore in my Tent preferring being alone to the discomfort of a ship.

23rd Completed our disembarkation. Today a Maori stole a rope from the boat which was given up by the people of Katikati a few days before 401 and shoved off in his canoe. A Maori belonging to Mr Spain saw the theft committed and reported it. A boat was sent after the Canoe which crossed to the opposite side of the harbour. The boat followed and landing found a large body of Maories armed and headed by Tupaiea with four war canoes. Whilst they were searching the canoe the Maories waxed insolent and hauled the boat up high and dry and when the crew who found nothing wished to return they at first prevented them launching it & on their shoving off fired four shots across its stern. Shortly after the canoes went out. As we were naturally anxious to know the cause of this movement Mr Brown was applied to who said that it was nothing being merely a party going to Motiti to fetch Kokowai (Red ochre) a Most improbable story. (Marginal Note--As we entirely discredited Mr Browns story and concieved Tupaieas object was to cut off some stragglers from Maketu as soon as it was dark we threw up rockets in hopes of alarming both parties.) In Evg The Schooner from Tai Rua with the Marines, Gunner, & Master of Tortoise and the Ships Cutter arrived They had been detained by foul winds and heavy weather.

24th I was sent to the Mission station with a letter to the Act Govnr. By the kind offices of Mr Spain a reconciliation was brought about between these gentlemen. The Brig sailed with Mr Shortland & suite for Auckland and the Man of wars boats with Seamen & Marines (leaving us the Guns) returned to their ship. In my note book I find the words Missionary Humbug but am at loss just now as to what particular act these words refer.

25th Sunday & Xmas day. We were now alone with a very short supply of provisions our Naval department consisting of the Pinnace and a four oared Gig. Our buildings were all complete & temporarily covered with Tarpaulings our whole encampment may be thus described. In the angle of the Fleche I have described stood the Guard house The Barrack large enough for all our men being in rear & a little to the right with a 4 Pr in front of the door. In rear & to the left was the mess room & a brass Gun 4 Pr whilst the Tents in which the officers lived were ranged behind

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the mess room and at the base of Hopu Keore in which existed a dry cave this was enlarged the entrance closed up & being fitted with shelves and a door made a capital Magazine. On the top of Hopu Keore looking towards Mounga nui a guard house was excavated and thus our works were complete. I must add however that our guns were not of the same calibre as our round shot or canister nor would the grape fit until we fettled it.

In the Morning some small Craft came also Tupaieas party who turned out to be as I had supposed nothing but a war Party consisting not as Mr Brown had stated of 40 but of 120 men their object was not to fetch Ochre but to steal pigs belonging to Nga ti Waukaue of which they caught & killed 50. Determined not to make any mistake I questioned one of the Party who said that they intended to cut off any stragglers they might have found but seeing none they had contented themselves with the Pigs. 402 They had expected to have surprized some fishing parties. So much for Mr Brown & his Kokowai.

26th Men employed cutting rushes for thatch. A number of Maories visited us from Mounga Tapu bearing a present from Tai Pari Chief of that Pah & 2nd man in Tauronga to Major Bunbury which he declined accepting. One of them spoke a little English and had been to the South sea Islands I endeavoured to gain some information from him regarding Hawaike but he could give me none.

29th Tupaiea principal Chief of Tauronga from Otu Moetai the prime promoter of all disturbances and Te Mutu who holds the 3rd place a foolish fellow went to Katikati. The reason they assigned was that they intended to remove the bones of Whanaki and take the Tapu of the site of the Pah. Ed Shortland was on the alert and soon satisfied himself that nothing but their weakness prevented their going to Houraki to commit a few murders.

31st After muster went to Otu Moetai and from thence to the Papa & Mounga Tapu Ed Shortland & Mr Meurant also went. After we had sat without speaking a Maori custom for some little time Tai Pari said that his heart was very dark on account of Major Bunbury having refused his present That when the major was there before that he had given him (Tai Pari) a blanket & some other things and that a man who

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gave ought not to be too proud to recieve It was of no use our arguing that the present was from the Queen. That makes no difference said Tai Pari if he can give he ought also to recieve on the Queens part he will not do so and his fault is great. 403

He now ordered some food to be dressed and desired his wife to bring his pipe which he handed to us to examine It was of Native workmanship and Material cut out of a stone found at Rotorua called -----. Formerly these pipes were common in these districts but now are exceedingly rare. 404 It was the only one I had ever seen & I never heard of but one other which is I believe in the possession of Mr Wakefield at Port Nicholson. Tai Pari was very proud of Ko Marino for the pipe had a name, was beautifully carved in imitation of some of the old Clay pipes and by his shewing at least twenty years old. Its history and the names of its former possessors would fill a chapter moreover it was highly sacred & no Maori of his tribe except his wife would dare to touch it but this is the Case with all the pipes of the high Chiefs. One of 405 Te Wherowhero's wife suffered death for leaving his pipe in a house where cooking was going on. Having exhibited the pipe he now addressed me advising that I should be very jealous of the Natives of both Maketu & Tauronga & always on my guard against the former. He said that just before our arrival they had assembled 600 men to defend Maketu and had strengthened the Pah. And now a little of the Maori peeped out he wished to know why the Pinnace had been sent to Katikati to fetch wood instead of coming to his ground where he assured us there was plenty of fuel easily got at & quite at our service. Walking round the Pah we were struck by the altered appearance of a pretty Girl who at our previous visit had been one of Mr Browns handmaidens she had left him & taken a Maori husband the poor thing was wasted to a shadow. This Mr Meurant said was commonly the case with Maories who had lived any time with Europeans & afterwards returned to their Pah that at first they fell away & sometimes died if not that in a few

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months they picked up again. Took leave and returned to Wai ko rere 406 In night Thunder & heavy rain.

The position of Mounga Tapu is at the junction of two arms of Tauranga on & under the headland thus formed in rear is some fine Land. Tai Pari is the best of the Tauronga Chiefs (1st Class) is peaceably inclined & keeps his Pah & people in good order he is most kindly disposed to white men & signed the Treaty which Tupaiea refused to do - His wife is from Rotorua.

January 1st 1843 - Sunday. Service in forenoon. In afternoon and night heavy rain with Thunder and Lightening.

3rd Victoria arrived with Act Govnr & Suite and the Chief Protector Mr Clarke. A Council had been held on the Maketu affair which report says was somewhat stormy the law authorities asserting that the Govnr has no right to interfere in Native quarrels when both parties have not signed the Treaty of Wai Tangi a pretty doctrine this debarring us of the right of defending British subjects from aggression. 407 To my mind the Maories either are or are not British subjects if the latter the sooner we vacate the Island the better. Victoria sailed for Port Nicholson in afternoon leaving me with the Detachment. Victoria brought 2 months supplies.

9th Ed Shortland came over from the Papa to pitch his Tent amongst 408 us and at 2 A.M. of

10th Went to Maketu. The last reports state that the People of Maketu are most anxious to give up the boat to any Officer of Govt who will go & recieve her. Previous to our arrival at Wai Korere 100 men came from Urewera to assist in the defence of Maketu but hearing that we were so near set off home alledging that they were out of provisions. The people of Rotorua are most anxious for peace. Schooner Industry sailed for Auckland - Passengers Major Bunbury - Dr Gammie & Mr Lardner Commissariat Dept.

One night the dogs barked incessantly I went out several times but could see nothing - at last the sentry at the back of our Tents challenged several times Who goes there. Welman & I turned out & enquired what was the matter. The man answered that there was somebody in the scrub who would not answer but always retreated when he advanced.

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Turned out the Guard and accompanied the sentry into the scrub where we plainly heard footsteps retiring I challenged in Maori No Answer Following on we came to an open spot and there stood the cause of the alarm an innocent calf.

13th Tupaiea came to visit us he was well dressed in a French Naval Lieuts uniform. After breakfast at which he behaved in the most gentlemanly manner he accompanied Capt Lockhart & I to Puke Whanaki. 409 The Chief of this Place Hamiora an old friend of mine a most intelligent & goahead young man was not at home but his people treated us with every hospitality taking a pride in shewing me all they had worthy of attention. The principal objects were a well built & roomy church and a small field of fine wheat. Puke Whanaki is prettily situated on the face of a steep cliff it is a place of considerable strength and the regularity & cleanliness pervading the settlement bespeakes the presence of a Master mind. On our return we shot two couple of ducks and landing Tupaiea at Otu Moetai ran across for the Camp.

14th Pulled up to Mounga Tapu. After the proper time had elapsed Tai Pari said that he had heard from his people that when they came hungry to the Camp that I always gave them to eat & was kind to them but he said it is very wrong in them to ask for food they ought rather to give to you for you are a Stranger here. I answered that I made no distinction of tribes but if a Maori came to me I gave him to eat When they come from a distance you do very right but you must not feed all the people of Tauronga it is their bussiness to carry food with them. I now changed the subject to that of native wars urging him to remain quiet. I have done so for a long time said he I am convinced that what you say is right if we continue fighting our race will become extinct whereas Peace will increase it. It is now some years since I took any part in the quarrels of these parts & I find that whilst others become weak I am getting strong. The Children of my Pah are not murdered in their youth and the boys are growing into men. I can now raise more fighting men than any Chief of Tauronga & I will use my strength to preserve peace. On taking leave he ordered a number of baskets of the Finest potatoes to be put into the boat. About 11 P.M. Ed Shortland arrived from Maketu. The people have given up the boat and consented to pay its owner (Farrow) for its detention and for such of its cargo as they had consumed in Potatoes and pigs. A general meeting was held to consult on steps to be taken for the preservation of Peace and the following resolutions were passed. That they had wronged Nai ti Rangi and that should these people kill one of theirs as an utu or payment that they

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would not resent it. That the Govnr should be applied to to allow some Soldiers to reside at Maketu for whom they would build a house but if he did not think proper to grant this request that he should be begged not to remove them from Tauranga. That Nga ti Waukaue will no longer eat human Flesh. Tohi te uru rangi said I lost my son the Atua of the Tribe & my heart was very dark but the Governor has given us his brother to be our guide and protector I accept him he shall be to me in place of my son and my heart has become light. There is a report that a war party is preparing at Mokau to attack Maketu. The Schooner Black Joke arrived from Auckland with letters.

16th The Boat arrived from Maketu with a Cargo of Pigs & Potatoes the payment to Farrow and a present to Ed Shortland who sent a quantity to Mr Brown but the Maories as soon as they heard of it called a meeting from whence delegates called on Mr Brown to say that the Potatoes were made sacred by the blood of their kinsfolk and that they must not remain at his house or be used by him. In fact they compelled him to return them.

Sunday 22nd Hearing that Farrow had a Kiwi I went over to Otu Moetai to see it. My Friend ----- the Tohunga had the care of it & kept it in an old Rua rewai or potato cave where he fed it with rice. It was a young hen and agreed in every respect with that I had at the Bay of Islands and have previously described. It looked very sickly and its plumage was dirty & ruffled had it been in good order I would have bought it. ----- described the Kakapo as having formerly been plentiful in the woods between Tauronga & Rotorua. It was a bird like a green Kaka but larger in its bill only did it differ & that resembled that of a Kiwi. Its wings were almost useless it could not fly.

Returned Tupaiea's visit he was sleeping in his house when I asked for him but came out when told that I was there looking confused & disturbed this he accounted for saying I have had a bad dream. The ravages committed on his tribe by their ennemies have had an astonishing effect upon him within the last few months he has become perfectly grey and from being a man of few words [h]as become sullen and morose. He seldom speaks to his people but is continually plotting how to revenge his injuries. A plotter he has been all his life and being connected with several tribes and a man of the most noble blood as well as of undoubted talent had his machinations been successful he would have occupied a proud place amongst his countrymen as it is he is a miserable man.

As we were passing out of the Pah our attention was arrested by a general commotion. A Frightful old woman was endeavouring to break into a division of the Pah where under the Verandah of a house sat a man looking the very picture of rage and sulkiness. The Progress of the

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woman was stopped by several others as ugly as herself and one or two men who stood in the gateway to bar the entrance. A scene of pulling scratching and screaming ensued such as I had never witnessed and as an accompanyment a fellow inside kept firing an old Gun by the assistance of a firestick. At length after a desperate resistance in which I thought that she would have been dragged to pieces the woman was carried off. The cause of the row was this. The Lady the widow of Whanaki & of course Taboed unable to bear so long a state of celibacy had committed some indiscretions of which she imprudently boasted & was on the point of returning to her cher ami when she was interrupted by the friends of both parties. The Gentlemans feelings for it was he who sat under the Verandah may be easily imagined. As I found that nothing more than the separation of the Parties was likely to follow I launched my boat and pulled off.

23rd At 2 A.M. The Picquet reported that several large canoes were approaching from Maketu. Got up desiring the picquet to call the other officers and get all ready for a general turn out although I believed it to be nothing but a fishing party from Mounga Tapu, Tai Pari having given me notice that all his people were about to assemble for that purpose. We met the party on the outside beach just as they landed and it turned out as I expected. The leader stepped forward and said that fearful of proceeding in the night further down the beach they had put ashore to ask permission to sleep. This was of course granted and he then made his men sit down two deep that we might see their strength about 70 men with Ten Canoes. Tai Pari was not there he was to join them at the fishing Station and a few more canoes were to come round in the morning. A message was delivered to Ed Shortland & me inviting us to go down which we promissed to do in the evening. We now turned in again.

After dinner Sd & I walked down the beach as we had promissed on our road we met our 70 friends of the previous night coming to fetch us. Each man bore a fish as a present which they carried to the Camp whilst we proceeded to the Station. About four miles from Wai Korere we found Tai Pari with 14 fine canoes & 250 men. After some conversation we spread our blankets & went to Sleep.

24th We were all astir at dawn some food was hastily prepared and as speedily demolished and then all was haste and excitement. Every crew ran to their respective Canoes the greatest emulation prevailing as to which should be the first to cross the surf. Tai Pari sat on a little sand hill attended by three or four old Chiefs giving directions as to the grounds to be fished on that day and observing the skill exhibited by the different Canoes. One of the lighter canoes now reaches the water they shove her

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in holding her by the sides head to sea a race of heavy seas roll in now there is a temporary lull they run her out until the water is above their middles a roller is seen approaching they bound into the canoe and paddle as if for their lives they reach the roller just before it curls and dash over it, standing on the thwarts of the canoe, a few more strokes and they are without the curl of the breakers. Such was the scene we witnessed and most exciting it was and when any awkwardness on the part of the steersman caused a canoe to ship a breaker loud were the shouts of derision from his more skilful companions. The Canoes having all crossed the surf spread their sails and ran away in different directions to the banks most frequented by the Taragehe. 410 We now returned to the Camp. In the Evg I returned to the fishing station Ed Shortland did not accompany me having gone to Katikati in the Pinace. The Canoes had returned having taken great quantities of fish which had been sent to Mounga Tapu to be cured for winter stock reserving sufficient for present consumption. The fishermen had assembled in groups round their fires to talk over their days sport and to celebrate their success with Hakas Waatas according to Maori custom. I wandered about amongst the different groups until about ten oclock and then betook myself to my blankets which had been spread near Tai Pari with whom I conversed until midnight on war & the sale of Land the usual topics of conversation. In the early Part of the morning I heard a canoe approaching the Maories had also heard it and conceiving that it might be a war party from Maketu were in considerable consternation arming themselves as they best could. Stop said I a canoe from the Papa went out to fish yesterday do not be hasty it may be them your friends. Ah said Tai Pari No doubt our friend is right he will go and see. I did so & found that I was right to the great delight of all who paid me many compliments on my speedy solution of the cause of their alarm. Ah said they were we like you always thinking much blood would have been saved and many quarrels avoided. (Marginal Note--The crew of the Canoe fatigued & hungry had proposed to go on shore at Tai Paris station. This was objected to lest they might in the night be taken for ennemies. No said one it will not be so "Te Peti" is at the station.)

25th At dawn the Canoes were again launched and this time additional interest was added to the scene by the presence of an idiot woman. She poor thing followed the canoes into the water and when the last pushed off threw herself on the beach with her back to the sea flinging handfuls of sand behind her she appeared wrapped in the bitterest grief chaunting a low dirge at intervals breaking into the wildest strains several of the people attempted to remove her but ineffectually as they forbore using the least violence so I went down & gave her a little bit of Tobacco this

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trifling as it was changed the current of her thoughts & taking her hand I led her quietly back. Poor Winiwini she had stolen some flax from an old Priestess who cursed her and the words of the Hag had such an effect on her superstitious mind that she became an Idiot.

A large party now accompanied me to Wai Korere where they prepared food for the rest of their friends. About three the Canoes returned the Hangis were opened the food quickly finished and then the whole party formed into a dense mass as if for War marched into the Camp Every man laid a fish before my Tent sat for a minute & then at a word from their chief rushed to their Canoes and returned to Mounga Tapu.

26th About noon saw travellers approaching from Maketu & hastened to meet them - the Party consisted of two priests from Wakatani with two Maories from that place and a lad from Maketu a brother of Tohi who was the bearer of a letter from that Chief to Ed Shortland. From the Maories I learned that this lad was an idiot probably the only person who would have ventured or whom they would have allowed to have come to Tauronga. As Shortland was not at home 411 concieving that the letter might be of importance I opened it but found that it merely related to a house building for Shortland at Maketu concluding with a request that he would convey the bearer to Wai Rake this I took upon myself to do and having given the lad some food which I had taken to him where I had made him sit down in the fern outside the Camp putting him in charge of the Sentry lest any of the Tauronga natives should see him and wish to do him injury we set out on his return. When about three miles down the beach he suddenly started off as hard as his legs could carry him I called but it was no use so I ran too & after a hard chase overtook him in an evident state of Trepidation. Reaching Wai Rake I wrote a note to Tohi saying the Shortland had gone to Katikati but that I had taken care of his brother and seen him safe past the dangerous part of the road - I then returned to the Camp.

31st Muster day. Tai Pari paid us a formal visit and dined with us he was exceedingly well dressed and behaved at Table in the most correct manner.

Feby 1st Mr Shortland returned he had been as far as Hauraki and on the Wai Ho met Taraia who was anxious to pay a visit to Wai Korere. Some of his Party stole some trifling things belonging to Mr Clarke a complaint being made Taraia caused them to be returned and even offered to destroy the Pah to which they had been taken. I need not say that his offer to visit us had been declined by Shortland.

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Sunday 5th A Messenger arrived from the Southward to request that Mr Shortland would interfere in a quarrel which had broken out between the people of Opotiki & Wakatani 412 which the parties concerned thought that the resident Missionary would not have sufficient influence to suppress. An evident proof that the Maories themselves are aware that something more than mere religion is required to check their frequent disputes and that the influence is gradually increasing. He also brought me a letter from Tohi thanking me for protecting his brother and inviting me to come to Maketu with Sd.

6th After dinner Sd & I set off for Maketu when we had walked about four miles as the Tide was rising the night closing in and Sds two boys heavily loaded we lit a fire & called a halt. At the earliest dawn we got away reaching Maketu by eight on the

7th Our approach was seen from the Pah & half way between Te Tumu & Maketu Tohi & Tangaroa met us. Tohi seeing that I hesitated in offering my hand said Te Peti do not let your heart be dark towards me mine has become light since I listened to the words of you two Give me your hand I have put away eating men I will do so no more. This appeal was not to be resisted and willingly did I shake hands with him. Tangaroa ran on & called to the people of the Pah who shoved off a boat & canoe for us the whole then escorted us to the house building for Shortland a few hundred yards to the Westward of the Pah. When we had rested and eaten our breakfast a meeting of the Chiefs was held all the speeches being of a most pacific nature. Tohi now thanked me for escorting his brother but said The shadow has not passed from my heart I grieve for my Son & my brother says that he saw his head in the guard room at Wai Korere Will you not give it me - I said your brother is an Idiot he never was in the guard room we have not your sons head, for a minute he appeared to doubt me & answered with Tears in his eyes O Give it me do give it & then added You are a merciful man you would not decieve me you have not got it or it would be mine He was my son. Collecting himself he added my brother said that he saw the head and also that a man from Otu Moetai laid hold of him to slay him but that he ran away (This accounts for the race down the beach) I told Tohi the whole story & he was satisfied. This with the exception of Te Warru giving up his daughter was the most painful scene I ever witnessed.

Some of the children brought in a fine young Bittern (Matuku) the weather was however too hot for me to attempt to cure it.

During the day the conversation turned on India where the Maories are well aware that we are carrying on war and on my saying that I was

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going there Nga Moni (Te Reanuku) begged me to take him with me that he might see the anger of the White man. Tohi (whose brother he is) seconded the request saying he is a brave fellow. When I urged that he might be killed Oh no said Te Reanuku I would go on a horse you should clothe me in armour and I would stay in a safe place & look on - But you cannot ride - I would soon learn some time ago I did not know the use of a gun now I can shoot - And so pressing was he that I was obliged to say that I would think of it for a direct refusal did not satisfy him.

8th