1846 - Marjoribanks, A. Travels in New Zealand - CHAPTER II

[Image of page 35]

CHAPTER II.

New Zealand consists of three islands, the North, the Middle, and Stewart's Island; the North being separated from the Middle by Cook's Straits, and the Middle being separated from Stewart's Island by Foveaux's Straits. It is 13,340 miles from Great Britain, 1200 from New South Wales, and Van Diemen's Land, and about 5000 from Peru and Chili, on the west coast of South America. It is nearly 900 miles in length, and about 100 in its average breadth. At one part of the North Island it is upwards of 200 miles broad, but towards the extreme north it becomes very narrow, and at one spot in particular, about 200 miles from the North Cape, there is an isthmus extending in width not more than three miles across, and the natives occasionally draw their canoes over a short portage at one part of that isthmus extending about 9000 yards, from sea to sea, that is, from near Hobson's Bay on the east coast, not far from Auckland, to Manukau harbour on the west;

[Image of page 36]

and at night, when the winds are lulled, the ocean is sometimes heard dashing against both shores. These three islands are now called New Leinster, New Munster, and New Ulster, but it would have been infinitely better to have named them New Mustard, New Pepper, and New Salt, as these are names that people would at least recollect. The area of the North Island is computed to contain 40,000 English square miles, and that of the South or Middle Island, of which Stewart's Island may be considered an appendage, 55,000, making in all 95,000 square miles, or about 62,000,000 square acres, so that it is somewhat larger than Great Britain.

The climate is remarkably healthy, the temperature throughout the year being singularly equable, the greatest heat never exceeding 80 degrees, nor the greatest cold 40; and the difference of the mean temperature throughout the winter and summer is only 20 degrees. The seasons are just the reverse of ours, their summer months being December, January, and February, when the thermometer generally ranges from 65 to 75, --and their winter, June, July, and August, when the thermometer ranges from 45 to 55. Ice or snow are seldom seen in the valleys, and when they do appear they as quickly disappear; so that they are enabled to obtain two crops of potatoes yearly, (or a crop of wheat and potatoes,) one of which they raise from the ground in January, and the other in June, and they only take fourteen weeks to come to maturity. In some parts of Scotland they occasionally find it difficult to get even one crop of grain within the year, and a story is told of a farmer, whose crop one year never happened to ripen at all on his high land, so that he thought he would let it stand over

[Image of page 37]

the winter, and as it fortunately became yellow in June, the following year, he cut it down, and made a grand puff in the newspapers about his early harvest, carefully, of course, concealing the singular circumstance of its being a two year's crop.

The high winds that prevail in that country are certainly a great drawback, and Cook's Straits in particular are very much exposed to them during nearly one half of the year. This inconvenience however, is more than compensated in the opinion of most of the settlers, by the extraordinary salubrity which it produces; which is so far disadvantageous to the medical profession, that my talented friend Mr. D'Orsey, one of the surgeons in the Bengal Merchant, was obliged to leave it, as, with all his ingenuity, and all his zeal, and all his penetration, he could scarcely discover either man, woman, or child, with any disease about them in that tempestuous country. It is fortunate, therefore, that these high winds have some advantage, as they are undoubtedly very disagreeable; and Captain Cook, who was at anchor forty-two days in Dusky Bay, on the southern extremity, mentions that he had only seven fine or calm days during the whole of that time. In reference to the climate, Colonel Wakefield, the Company's active agent at Port Nicholson, says, in one of his despatches to the secretary in London, "All that has been said or written of the extraordinary healthiness of this place has been borne out by experience; I believe that every temperate and well conducted person in the colony is free from disease of every description."

I shall now proceed to give a brief description of the different localities in New Zealand to which emigration has already taken place, and shall commence

[Image of page 38]

with the Bay of Islands, from its having been the spot which was first colonized.

The Bay of Islands, situated about eighty miles from the north-east extremity of the Northern Island, is a noble harbour, studded throughout with high rocky-islets, and affording shelter and anchorage at all seasons to any number of vessels. Kororarika, the principal settlement there, now called Russell, after Lord John Russell, is a fine village, with 1000 European and native inhabitants, romantically placed upon an open beach, sheltered by hills on all sides. The houses are many of them elegant; and land fronting the water, and suitable for the erection of stores, rose to £1000 per acre, when the late Captain Hobson fixed upon it for the capital of the country. There are, also, several extensive stores, which, being interspersed with native huts and inclosures, give a singular character to the scene. Mr. Busby also laid out a splendid town at the bay, which he called Victoria, and sold some of it at the rate of £300 an acre, but by far the best view of that town is to be found among the plans suspended in his own library, there being comparatively little trace of it on the surface of the earth. Victoria, however, has one advantage over Kororarika, namely, that it is backed by an extensive district of gently undulating land, free from trees, which could thus be easily brought under cultivation. The settlement of Paihia, three miles from Kororarika, belonging to the Church of England missionaries, which I formerly described, completes what may be called the Bay of Islands.

For twenty years preceding 1840, this bay was much frequented by vessels of every description, but particularly by South Sea whalers, which received

[Image of page 39]

there whatever supplies they required of hogs and potatoes. Of the latter valuable esculent the natives made it their business to have such a quantity provided as was sufficient to supply all the ships that visited the bay; the quantity which, on an average, each vessel received being five tons. One hundred and fifty one vessels visited the Bay of Islands during the year 1836, ninety eight being American vessels.

From the number of foreign sailors of all nations who used at one time to frequent the Bay of Islands, the state of society became so depraved, that the missionaries at last had to give them up as a hopeless case; and Mr. Watkins mentions, in his examination before the House of Lords, that one Englishman in particular, was in the habit of supplying the captains of ships with potatoes, pigs, and women, in one lot, selling the pigs and potatoes, and the use of the women for the time being.

The Bay of Islands, however, has much declined within the last, few years, provisions having become dear, and whales scarce; and the opening up of other parts of that country, has also had the effect of diminishing its former importance. The land near to it, is moreover, very mountainous, and north from it extremely barren; so that, with these drawbacks, the idea of placing the capital of the country at nearly the extreme point in that direction, was no great proof of naval wisdom.

The whaling ships that used to frequent it, now resort to Tahiti, the Fejees, the Navigators, and the other numerous islands of the Polynesian group near the equator, where they obtain fresh provisions and wood cheaper than they can now do in New Zealand. In the neighbourhood of the Bay of Islands there are

[Image of page 40]

no forests, and very few large trees. The natives at the Bay of Islands are computed at 8000.

After Governor Hobson had made up his mind to abandon Russell, which filled the inhabitants of that quarter with dismay, he pitched his tent a hundred and twenty miles farther to the south, at a place to which he gave the name of Auckland; and thither his private secretaries, colonial secretaries, aides-de-camps, custom house officers, town-officers, bailiffs, land-surveyors, attorney-generals, solicitor-generals, land-commissioners, and his whole retinue of favourites and expectants flocked like sheep after their shepherd; leaving Russell almost deserted, and the greater part of the splendid town of Victoria confined within the walls of a room. There is no doubt that the Bay of Islands owed much of its fame to its good harbour, and to its being the seat of that zealous body, the Church of England missionaries; but the want of available land in its neighbourhood, and its position at nearby the extreme point of the three islands, rendered it totally unfit to be the capital of that country.

Hokianga--This settlement, distant betwixt thirty and forty miles by land from the Bay of Islands, was the second colony founded by Europeans, and is situated on the west coast of the North Island. It is the chief seat of the Wesleyan missionaries; and the native population settled on that river, and tributary streams, is very great. Both they and the Europeans are employed almost exclusively in cutting down, sawing, and shipping off the Kauri pine, of which it may be called the head quarters. The river Hokianga is one of the finest in New Zealand, though not above thirty miles long, commencing near the residence of the ce-

[Image of page 41]

lebrated Baron de Thierry; and Mr. Russel, Mr. White, Mr. Munro, and some others, have large establishments there connected with the shipment of wood to England, the Australian colonies, and occasionally to the East Indies. Mr. Webster, from Glasgow, a passenger in the same ship with me, has also a large sawmill, propelled by water, on one of its tributary streams. The chief drawback to that river is the bar harbour at its mouth, which renders the access to it both difficult and dangerous There are about 200 Europeans, including the Wesleyan missionaries now located there, but the settlement, upon the whole, is not very flourishing. Baron de Thierry claimed, at one time, almost all the land in that part of New Zealand; but Tarcha, a great chief at the Bay of Islands, and a noted savage, threatened if he did not remain quiet, that he would kill him, and eat him up, which cooled the noble Baron's ardour in the cause very much.

Auckland, the new metropolis adjoining the Thames, lies on an open slope, with little fresh water, and no wood for either fuel or building within several miles; and ships are obliged to anchor a long way off, as they cannot approach the shore at low water. Town allotments have been sold there at £1600 per acre, which is more than land was worth in Sydney, an unrivalled seaport, thirty years after its foundation. The plan of the town is designed apparently for a magnificent metropolis, one-fourth of it being covered with what appears at first to be a spider's web, consisting of circular streets, circuses, crescents, and an infinite number of radiations. The people of Auckland have built some very decent weather-boarded cottages at an enormous cost, and are now only waiting for emigrants to restore

[Image of page 42]

their exchequer. A similar game was played at Adelaide, but latterly few pigeons have alighted in that land of promise.

The situation of Auckland, from being placed so near to Manukau on the west coast, must, however, be considered judicious, so far as that goes, as it has thus the singular advantage of securing part of the trade of both coasts; and a cargo of cattle from Port-Philip was landed at Manukau lately, and driven across the isthmus to Auckland, thus saving several hundred miles of water carriage. There is, however, but a small quantity of the land in its vicinity available, from the island there being so extremely narrow. The valley of the Thames certainly presents an extensive field for colonization, but the lower part is swampy, the best land being thirty miles from its embouchure. This, however, is in general covered with thick fern, ten or twelve feet high, so that it costs several pounds an acre to cut it down, and extirpate its immense roots, without which it would be of no avail. Firewood too is very dear, as it has to be brought by water carriage by the natives, from a considerable distance. Provisions, at one time, were high, as, in the Auckland Gazette of 24th July, 1841, I observed that potatoes were £6. 10s. the ton, beef 1s. 4d. per pound, mutton 1s., fowls 12s. the couple, eggs 6s. the dozen, and that they had no tea at all. Now, in the Gazette of 1st December, 1841, opposite to the word "Tea"there is still marked "none," so that from the want of that article during so many months, the Aucklanders had it not in their power to become tea-totallers, even though they had been inclined. They became, however, almost all rum-totallers during that time, and to that society they continue so much attached, that I fear they are

[Image of page 43]

not likely to change it for any other. House rents were also at one time very high, the rent of a house suitable for a labourer or mechanic being, in 1841, 16s. per week, so that though labourers were receiving at that time £2, 2s. a-week, and bricklayers, carpenters, &c, £4, I doubt much whether, all things considered, they were better off than well employed operatives here, and probably found it nearly as difficult to obey the memorable injunction of the poet--

The sum of £1 Sterling, per week, for rent and fuel, makes a serious hole in a labourer's pay, leaving only £1, 2s. to provide clothing and food for himself, his wife, and family. Were he to have used, for instance, eight pounds weight of potatoes for his own share, his wife seven, and his three children, (the average number of a young family,) other seven, which Mr. Hawley, one of the Irish Poor-Law Commissioners, states in the sixth annual Report, as the average quantity of potatoes consumed daily by the families of the labouring classes in Ireland; the price of these twenty-two pounds of potatoes daily at Auckland, would, at that time, have almost exhausted bis wages for the whole week, leaving little or nothing for rent, fuel, clothing, or any thing else. At Adelaide, in South Australia, potatoes were sixpence a pound, in the year 1838, so that it would have cost this Irish labourer nearly £4 a-week, at that rate, to have kept his family there, in potatoes alone. It certainly would not have been a very profitable speculation to have boarded an Irish family, at that time, in Adelaide. Mr. Hawley mentions, that in some parts of Ireland

[Image of page 44]

they eat so many potatoes at breakfast and dinner, that they can't afford to eat any supper at all, so that they fast about twenty hours every day, and have thus no occasion to set aside any particular days for that purpose. Provisions of all kinds are now, however, less than the one half of what they were in 1841, in Auckland, and wages and house rent have fallen in the same proportion.

Auckland, though now slowly recovering, was in a deplorable state in 1844. A friend of mine, Mr. Sanderson, writes thus to one of my brothers in Sydney on 22d January, 1844: --"There are, at this moment, not half a-dozen houses standing in Auckland, and these half-dozen could not raise together £300. Sales of bankrupts are taking place every day at ruinous prices, and at one which I attended lately, sugar was sold at a penny a pound, Indian silk handkerchiefs eightpence each, and rice one farthing a pound." Mr. Sanderson mentions in the same letter, that, at the sale of the property of Mr. Cooper, the colonial treasurer, who had fallen behind, an allotment of ground, with a splendid house, which had cost in all £1550, brought only £340, and that his cattle, horses, furniture, &c. brought only one seventh of their cost two years before.

It has often appeared to me strange, how seldom the working classes here, compare the rate of living in other countries, with the nominal rate of wages; and this neglect often creates disappointment when they emigrate to these countries. Indeed, I believe that the average rate of wages throughout the world, keeping in view, of course, the expense of living, is more equal than at first sight we should be apt to imagine. When an Irish labourer, for instance, who, in his own country,

[Image of page 45]

is receiving only tenpence a-day, hears of a labourer in Auckland receiving seven shillings, as he did at one time, he probably thinks that this must almost have enabled him to keep his carriage. He does not consider of how little consequence it is whether the nominal quantity of money received be great or small, and that the amount of the necessaries of life which that money can procure, is the only test whereby he can judge accurately of the rate of wages. Humboldt, the great traveller, mentions, that the miners who work in the gold and silver mines of Peru, and Chili, in South America, receive four times as much wages in money as the miners in Saxony, but are no better off, as the price of every thing is dear in proportion. During the reign of Edward the III. a common labourer received threepence a day, but a fat sheep was only one shilling and threepence, and a fat goose threepence, so that he could buy a fat sheep with five days pay, and a fat goose with one. But at the present day, when a fat sheep costs twenty-four shillings, he must give twelve days pay for it, at two shillings a-day.

It is curious that the English cannot settle down quietly, even in a new country, without wasting their time and money on these two most absurd of all absurdities, namely horse races, and public dinners. When beef was one shilling and fourpence a pound, one would suppose that the Aucklanders might have been better employed in sowing a little clover or turnip seed for their cattle, than in drinking a long list of absurd toasts, or setting a parcel of dumb animals to run against each other, particularly in a country like that, where, from their being scarcely any roads, it is of no earthly consequence whether a horse can gallop

[Image of page 46]

twenty miles an hour, or only twenty yards; indeed a couple of working bullocks are intrinsically more valuable, in a new colony, than all the race horses in the world. These races were advertised in the Auckland Gazette of 1st December, 1841, as the Epsom races, and to those amongst the Aucklanders who had really seen the Epsom races in England, the contrast must have appeared singularly striking. The winner of the Auckland town plate was to be sold for £150, "if demanded," but who in their senses would give above as many pence for a race horse in a wilderness.

The dinner was given to Captain Hobson, the late governor, and took place on the 21st of July, 1841, when, as the newspaper states, "his Excellency fulfilled his promise of honouring the inhabitants of Auckland with his company to dinner, at Wood's Royal Hotel." This dinner, like most other public dinners, though given ostensibly in honour of the Governor, was no doubt got up by the fifty gentlemen who attended it, chiefly with the view of affording them an opportunity of sounding each other's praises. When his Excellency's health was proposed, he made an eloquent reply, worthy in every respect of a jolly British tar converted into a governor. The toast of "the Church," gave the Rev. Mr. Churton an opportunity of displaying his usual eloquence. The "Army and Navy" followed next, when Lieutenant Dawson, of the Navy, and Captain Richmond of the Army, both returned thanks. Lieutenant Dawson, in his speech, seemed to think that Governor Hobson was as eminent an individual as Captain Cook, which no doubt secured for him a knife and fork at his Excellency's table the following day. The next toast was "the blessings of peace and civilization to the abo-

[Image of page 47]

rigines," to which Mr. Halswell responded, declaring that though he had been appointed one of their protectors, he found them perfectly able and willing to protect themselves; admitted by all present to have been the most sensible remark that was made during the whole evening. The next toast, "Mrs. Hobson, and the Ladies of New Zealand," was proposed by the Attorney-General, and responded to by the Governor, who afterwards retired. Now as the dinner was given in honour of him, they ought all to have retired at the same time, but that would not have answered their purpose at all, as, with the laudable object which they had in view, it was of no consequence whatever to them whether they entertained at dinner his Excellency or a chimney-sweep; and but for that, his Excellency, in all probability, would have had the distinguished honour of dining by himself. After his departure, accordingly, they set to work with more energy than ever. The vice-chairman gave the "Colonial Secretary," who made a neat reply; Mr. Mason gave "the commissioners of claims to grants of land," when Colonel Godfrey, one of the commissioners, displayed his usual eloquence; Mr. Coates gave "Captain Symonds and the Magistrates of New Zealand," when the captain returned thanks in an appropriate manner. In short, they continued pouring forth the most extravagant eulogies on each other for several hours, till the healths of almost the whole company had been proposed, and they had made their speeches, when the revelry, of course, came to an end. They were all, in short, so delighted with each other, that they were reluctant to separate, thereby resembling two lovers courting, who, it is well known, never tire of each other's company, for the best of all possible reasons, because they are always talking of themselves.

[Image of page 48]

PORT NICHOLSON--This was the first of the Company's settlements, and is still the principal one. It is possessed of a good harbour, surrounded by hills on all sides, beautifully covered with trees to the top. The bay or port, is about eight miles long, and three broad, entering from Cook's Straits. The want of available land in its immediate vicinity has been somewhat complained of, but this objection can no longer be urged against it, as 7000 acres of the richest land have now been rendered available in the valley of the Hutt, seven miles distant, and it has received a still further addition to its agricultural importance by the discovery of the Ruamahunga Plains, about twenty miles distant, containing upwards of 100,000 acres of good pasture land. But by far the most important addition to it, is the splendid valley or plains of Wairarapa, thirty miles from Wellington, up the valley of the Hutt, beyond the Ruamahunga Plains, comprising nearly half a million of acres, of which the New Zealand Company acquired right, in 1844, to 150,000 acres of available land, without regard to figure or continuity of blocks. Mr. Heaphy, the draftsman of the Company, gives a very good account of Port Nicholson, in his work, published in 1842, though he shews too great partiality to the Company's settlements, taking little notice, in fact, of any other. Accordingly, the Morning Chronicle of 1st October, 1842, in reviewing his work, says, "we believe he has not coloured the capabilities of the colonies too highly, but he is evidently the advocate of the Company, rather than an impartial judge, by whose judgment we should feel disposed to let ourselves be guided." It is amusing to contrast Mr. Thorp's description of Port Nicholson, with that of Mr. Heaphy. Mr. Thorp, writes thus in 1842: --

[Image of page 49]

"At present New Zealand is in high favour at home, and but middling at Sydney. In England, New Zealand signifies Port Nicholson, and the Company's land adjacent, where there are now located some five or six thousand souls. To the north of the island, on an arm of the frith of the Thames, is Auckland, where the governor has fixed his head quarters, with a population of 1000. The situation of Auckland is certainly far before Port Nicholson, though an indifferent seaport. Port Nic, as the natives call it, is surrounded by abrupt hills, perhaps five or ten acres of level land being scattered in petty parcels round the coast.

"The passage to this port, or open sea, is flanked by reefs, and the wind is often so violent as to render three anchors necessary to hold a ship. The coast adjoining the cities called Britannia, Thorndon, or Wellington, is shoally, and vessels lay off half-a-mile. In some publication the place has been likened to the Bay of Naples, and it is so, according to the adage, "as chalk is to cheese." I think it was the same veracious work which said a cargo of soap and blacking found ready sale with the natives, though they wear no shoes. Ships continue to be taken up and sent from England to this place with emigrants of various sorts, some refugees, of parishes, which are for the most part an idle set; a few rural labourers; an undue proportion of petty shopkeepers; some settlers of enterprise and talent, and a sprinkling of your gentlemen adventurers who gamble in billiards and land.

"A road is now forming about fourteen miles long to get at some available country, there being hitherto but one solitary piece of cultivation to supply 5 or 6000 mouths. A number of people have left, some to Cloudy Bay, on the south side of Cook's Straits,

[Image of page 50]

and others to different parts of New Zealand or to Sydney. More recently another Company have located an extensive tract of level land near Mount Egmont, called Taranaki, where there is some progress made in cultivation. From the glimpse I had of it, the scenery is attractive, the lofty peak of Mount Egmont rising at once from the plain, like the Alps from the vale of Lombardy. The port, if it can be called one, is only a roadstead; and indeed there is no port on the west coast without a dangerous bar at the entrance."

Lieutenant John Wood, in his late work, entitled "Twelve months in Wellington, Port Nicholson," published by Richardson, Cornhill, London, agrees with Mr. Thorp in thinking Auckland preferable for the capital to Wellington, which I do think he disparages too much. The following is his remark on this subject "Auckland, in the course of years, must become the chief colony, for here nature has done what neither capital nor puffing can do for Wellington." There is some truth, however, in Mr. Wood's observation, that vessels from Sydney to England, invariably avoid Cook's Straits, their course homewards being directed either to the north or to the south of New Zealand. Indeed, straits in general are always avoided if possible by captains of ships. Notwithstanding however these remarks of Messrs. Thorp & Wood, I am still of opinion, that Port Nicholson was perhaps the place best adapted for the capital, from its fine harbour, and being in the very centre of the country, as the Middle Island lies contiguous to it on the other side of Cook's Straits. It is, moreover, on the high road to Valparaiso, in South America, where steam ships have already commenced plying to England by

[Image of page 51]

way of the isthmus of Panama, and by the English royal mail steam ships from Chagres, on the Atlantic side, to Jamaica and England; and within three hundred miles of the Chatham Islands, lying in the direction of Valparaiso, which contain nearly a million of acres, one fourth being excellent land, and peopled almost entirely by New Zealand natives, five hundred of whom sailed from Port Nicholson to these islands in 1832. It is, moreover, in the very centre of the two great staple productions of that country, flax and oil, the greater part of the whale fishings in New Zealand, being in Cook's Straits. Indeed, Governor Hobson himself is reported to have said, that he had been deceived in regard to the fertility of the Middle Island, and that in the event of its being colonized to a respectable extent, there must either be two Governors for New Zealand, or the seat of Government must be transferred to Port Nicholson.

I am not singular in considering Auckland inconveniently situated for the metropolis of the Great Britain of the south, as Mr. Heaphy says of it, "I cannot think that, it is a proper place for the seat of government, nor do I believe that it will, for any length of time, remain the capital." The Hon. Mr. Petre, son of Lord Petre, in his excellent history of the Company's settlements, after alluding to the large British population at Port Nicholson, Wanganui, New Plymouth, and Nelson, all of which may be said to be in Cook's Straits, makes the following remark, "Under these circumstances, the extreme inconvenience of placing the seat of government on the peninsula at the northern extremity of New Zealand, must be apparent to every one. If Captain Hobson, had been sent to New Zealand to found a small town,

[Image of page 52]

there would, perhaps, be no objection to the spot, but he was sent to govern a colony, and it does seem almost unaccountable that he should have neglected to visit Port Nicholson, and the harbours in Cook's Straits, and should have fixed the seat of government at so great a distance from the people to be governed, and from that part of New Zealand which is, and must continue to be, the most attractive to settlers."

In a newspaper published in 1842, at Adelaide, the capital of South Australia, there is the following remark, "At Wellington, or Britannia as it was first called, there are not less than 5000 white inhabitants; and it was by all expected that the seat of government would shortly be removed thither, which with deference to the opinion of the governor of New Zealand, we certainly think the preferable situation."

The inhabitants of Port Nicholson, during the years 1840 and 1841, laboured under great disadvantages, owing to the title under which the New Zealand Company, as well as others, held their lands, having been called in question by the Governor and Council of New South Wales, under whose jurisdiction the country then was; and at one time the settlers there had it actually in contemplation to move off in a body to Chili, in South America. But the recognition of New Zealand by the Queen of England as an additional colony--the appointment of a governor independent altogether of New South Wales, and, above all, the settlement of the claims of the Company to their lands, upon a fair and reasonable footing, by the home government, dispelled the cloud which for a time overshadowed them, and saved the colony from ruin.

The following is a summary of the arrangement en-

[Image of page 53]

tered into by the Government and the Company, and the same principle was applied in regard to the titles of all the other claimants of lands in that country.

With respect to all lands acquired in the colony under any other than that of grants made in the name and on behalf of her Majesty, it is proposed that the titles of the claimants should be subjected to the investigation of a commission to be constituted for the purpose. The basis of that inquiry will be the assertion on the part of the crown of a title to all lands situate in New Zealand, which have heretofore been granted by the chiefs of those islands, according to the customs of the country, and in return for some adequate consideration.

An account of all the just and moderate expenses of the Company hitherto incurred in forwarding the colonization of New Zealand to be made out, and the crown to grant the company as many acres of land as shall be equal to four times the number of pounds sterling which they shall be found to have expended in the manner stated.

The Company to forego all claim to any lands purchased or acquired by them in New Zealand, other than the lands so to be granted to them, and other than any lands which they may hereafter acquire from the crown, or other persons deriving their title from the crown.

It is proposed to apply to all other British subjects the rule to which the New Zealand Company will be subject in respect of the lands claimed by them within the colony. This advantage, however, will be offered only to those whose lands were acquired before the 5th day of January, 1840, the date of proclamation issued by Sir George Gipps on the subject.

[Image of page 54]

Under this arrangement, all those who had acquired land prior to the above date, were to be allowed one acre of land for every five shillings which they could instruct to have been bona fide expended in any manner of way. The Company, for instance, in the whole expense attending their purchases from the natives-- sending out emigrants, &c, and private individuals all the expenses they had been at in improving the land, &c. &c. This enactment, indeed, was chiefly intended to frustrate the attempts of Mr. Wentworth, and some other speculators in Sydney, who had rather imposed on the natives, after they had heard that New Zealand was on the eve of being colonized. Mr. Wentworth, in particular, along with four or five others, had purchased nearly twenty millions of acres in the middle island, (being, as he stated, the whole of that island, with the exception of about three millions of acres which belonged to other purchasers,) from seven chiefs whom he happened to meet in Sydney, for which he gave them £200 in hand, with the promise of a like sum annually as long as they lived, --which must be looked upon as a wonderful purchase. Some of the other Sydney purchasers had bought land at New Zealand at the rate of 50 acres for a penny. Mr. Wentworth is a very opulent individual, and is now one of the members of Council for the city of Sydney. He struggled hard to retain his New Zealand purchase. Though, therefore, the government enactment proved a finishing stroke to all that class of claimants, it must be considered, upon the whole, a liberal and judicious arrangement on the part of Lord John Russell. Prior to February 1842, the government commissioners had sustained 435 claims to land, out of 595 then given in by 280

[Image of page 55]

individuals, the total measurement of which was 13,920,482 acres, or nearly one-fourth of the entire surface of that country, and their arduous labours will now soon be closed.

After this arrangement, the colony may be said to have gone ahead; and as a proof of it, I shall give the evidence of Peter Doreen, who went out in the ship with me from Glasgow, and who, though an Irishman, sailed to New Zealand as one of the first Scotch colonists, which shews that he was fond, at least, of being in good company. In addition to all his other blessings, he was blessed with a numerous offspring of children and grandchildren, like the patriarchs of old. I was somewhat surprised at finding my old friend Peter's letter so well written, his learning, so far as I recollect, not being very extensive, but probably he had the same excuse as one of his countrymen, who, when apologising to a friend for not being able to read nor write so well as he could have wished, said, "that it was the fault of his education, as he had been at school only one afternoon during the whole of his life, and that afternoon, the schoolmaster happened to be absent." Lord Brougham constantly boasts that the schoolmaster was abroad, as this schoolmaster seems to have been, but I should like to hear of his being found occasionally at home. Mr. Doreen's letter appears in the Glasgow Constitutional of 1st September, 1841, where it is thus noticed: --

"New Zealand. --A letter was received in Paisley last week, from a man named Peter Doreen, who went out an emigrant in the Bengal Merchant. He says "the rivers abound in excellent fish, new roads are getting opened up, the inhabitants are becoming very civil, and are the most intelligent race of people

[Image of page 56]

in the world. A year ago, at Port Nicholson, there was not a hundred inhabitants, now they amount to several thousands." He speaks of New Zealand as being a very healthy place, as he has known no one to have been badly except from drinking "Wypera" whisky. The writer gives the following as the prices of some of the articles of ordinary consumption. Flour 4d. to 6d. per lb.; butter 2s.; pork, 4 1/2d. to 6d.; beef, 1s.; tobacco, 2s.; sweet milk, 6d. a quart. He says "emigrants arriving here, have nothing to do but commence work immediately, at two pounds a-week, and no man that ever wrought a day's work but is able to labour in New Zealand." The articles he recommends emigrants to take out, are hammers, chisels, saws, spades, hoes, pick-axes, &c. which are generally about 100 per cent. dearer than in England. Clothing is more reasonable, but generally inferior. Towards conclusion, he says, addressing his countrymen, "I earnestly request of you, if in your power, free yourselves from bondage and slavery, and come to New Zealand; mind nothing what any person says, --we are all better than ever we were, and apparently will have a splendid colony."

After this forcible appeal, I certainly expect to hear that you are all off by to-morrow morning. "Free yourselves from bondage and slavery," exclaims Peter, and who amongst us is so great a lover of bondage and slavery as not to rise at his solemn call?

The following eloquent address on this subject, though in a different style, is from a speech delivered by Sir William Molesworth, late member for Leeds, at a Fete given at Plymouth on the 30th October, 1840, by the Plymouth Company of New Zealand.

[Image of page 57]

After expressing the deep interest he felt in every thing connected with that country, --the more particularly from having a brother settled there, Sir William says, "this young person went thither with my cordial approbation and concurrence; for, in my humble judgment, a young man with active body and vigorous understanding, who has his fortune to make, cannot seek it in a better manner than in the colonies; especially in those of the southern hemisphere, where the climate is similar to our own. In this country every occupation is overstocked; in every employment competition is excessive; the profits of capital are scanty, and there is no room for competitors. Look at the number of barristers without briefs--of lawyers without fees--of doctors without patients. Behold the swarms of clergymen that crowd into the church, without any special vocation for that sacred office, and awaiting in vain expectation for some scanty living. It is only, therefore, after a long life of patient and painful toil, and in too many cases not even then, that a prudent man, who does not possess the gifts of fortune, can indulge in the social affections. The deepest sorrow and compassion must fill the mind of every man who has carefully considered these subjects, and traced the moral as well as the physical consequences of over competition in this densely peopled country. How different is the scene in the colonies of the southern seas! There industry and capital meet with a reward three times greater than in this country. There, with moderate prudence and exertion, every man can obtain a comfortable subsistence; and a numerous offspring, instead of being a burden, is the greatest of benefits. What, then, hinders multitudes from hastening to these lands of

[Image of page 58]

promise? Surely abundance there is better than penury here. Why do not the younger branches of our aristocracy, instead of wasting their time at home in sloth and idleness, or in the ignoble attempt, and henceforth, I trust, a vain one, to quarter themselves upon the resources of the nation--why do not they, I repeat, lead forth numerous bands of emigrants to the colonies? Can they have a more honourable or useful occupation? By putting themselves at the head of systematic colonization, they would confer a lasting benefit on their country and themselves, and gain a renown in history similar to that of the Raleighs, the Drakes, and other worthies, distinguished in the annals of the planting of America. You, intrepid men, who are about to leave these shores, emigrants to New Zealand, bright prospects are before you. Go, then, accompanied with every auspicious omen. Be the pioneers of civilization. Imitate your forefathers: subdue the forest--carry your name, and your language, and your arts, and your institutions, into the wilds of the southern hemisphere. Let the sea and the land be alike witness of your toils. Become the founders of a mighty empire in a new world of your own creation, and thus accomplish the destiny of your race." But as I do not consider myself the advocate of the New Zealand Company, I must turn your attention occasionally to the gloomy side of the picture, as a true and correct view of different countries is best acquired by following the maxim which Lord Bacon inculcated in regard to the true character of men; if you wish to find out their good qualities, ask their friends--if their bad, ask their enemies. In the "London Sunday Times"of 20th March, 1842, is the following paragraph: --

[Image of page 59]

"New Zealand--A correspondent writes as follows:

--Before I quitted England, I bought 200 acres of land. You must not believe half what the papers say in England respecting us. They tell you that the land you buy will be given out in a few weeks after you arrive; which land, at the same time, is scarcely found, much less surveyed. I have not yet had the land I bought; neither have I been able to get any employment; there are so many waiting in the same way. New Zealand is one of the wildest places you can imagine--very mountainous, everywhere so thickly wooded that you cannot walk without a path being cut." And the following extract of a letter from Port Nicholson, appears in the Glasgow Constitutional of 30th March, 1842. "The people can get no work-- there are hundreds about the place, out of employ. The Company give 14s. a-week, and rations. Most people are selling their land to get away with the first chance that offers." Now, were I to consult my own interest, I might be disposed to conceal these unfavourable accounts, as I have still a hundred acres of land in that country; but when sojourning in New South Wales, I heard so many curses poured forth upon those, who, by exaggerated statements, had induced so many of their simple-minded and unsuspicious countrymen to exchange the fertile land of their forefathers, for what they found, when too late, were only barren and inhospitable shores, that I determined, whatever others might do, that it should never at least be laid to my charge that I had been guilty of misleading any one.

From the latest accounts, however, that have been received, things seem to be doing much better at Wellington, the name given to the chief town at Port

[Image of page 60]

Nicholson, and the natives there are becoming more active--earning occasionally 3s. a-day. I was not the only one who accused them of being idle at first, as the following passage occurs in Chambers' Edinburgh Journal of 2d January, 1841.

"Amongst the population at Port Nicholson, up to April last, were about 800 natives. Most accounts speak favourably of these individuals, and prognosticate that they will be useful as labourers. They had already been active in clearing land and building houses for the settlers. 'We give them,' says a colonist, (Mr. Partridge), 'blankets, muskets, powder, tobacco, and shirts, in exchange for pigs, potatoes, house-building, and thatching, and things of that sort." Speaking of the chiefs, the same gentleman says, (March 18), 'Warrepore drank tea with me to-night, and drank wine like a good Christian; but his appetite is of the largest. He is a great warrior, six feet high, and a restless fighting devil. Eponee is an orator, and a sensible fellow.' Though irritable when thwarted in their prejudices and customs, they are, if civilly treated, obliging, attentive, and well behaved. To an active European they appear indolent; but it must be readily seen that a barbarian cannot all at once be broken into habits of diligent application. This must be a matter of time, and perhaps the existing generation will never be very serviceable. It is by taking the young into training that the services of the aboriginal race will be most speedily and efficiently secured. A lady (Miss Hunter) says, April 7, 'We are very much pleased with the natives, who seem to be intelligent and obliging, but very indolent.' Another writer, (Mr. Marjoribanks,) speaks of the natives as extremely filthy, and more disposed to thrust themselves

[Image of page 61]

upon the hospitality of the settlers than to work for an independent subsistence. He adverts to two princesses who live in a pig-sty, cover themselves by day with a mat of native flax, and eat vermin. But even he allows that he, by and bye, saw one of these ladies appear on a Sunday in a nice new gown that would not have disgraced a London or Parisian milliner. If once the people in general get a taste for smart dresses and superior accommodations, their barbarism and inactivity will disappear together. It is a noble and humane arrangement which this Company has been the first to make with respect to any aborigines, that a tenth part of the land is reserved for their use as free property. The reserves made for them at Port Nicholson were estimated, a few weeks after the first settlement, as worth, £35,000. This appears like acting upon high principle, and forms a striking contrast with the conduct of the missionaries of the Church Missionary Society, who have possessed themselves of a great deal of land in the most unscrupulous way, and now that their arts are exposed and stopped, do all they can to incense the natives against the Company's settlers."

Warrepore, whom Mr, Partridge mentions having entertained at tea, though anything but a teetotaller, was sometimes entertained by the captains of the emigrant ships, and became fond at last of a glass of wine. 1 saw him on one occasion, when he had had a drop too much, strip himself naked on the beach, in order to give the spectators a specimen of his war dance. The feelings of the English ladies who happened to be present on this trying occasion it is easier to imagine than describe.

Wellington, now presents the appearance of a bus-

[Image of page 62]

tling town, as including the Scotch village of Kaiwarawara, situated a mile from it, with 300 inhabitants, and the villages of Petoni and Aglionby, six or seven miles distant, at the mouth of the valley of the Hutt, where we were first located, the present inhabitants of that district amount to 6000 British, and about a 1000 natives. The number of good houses, and stores, &c. built by the British, is now estimated at 800, besides 400 native huts. The natives, seeing how much more comfortable the English houses are than their own, --in one of which my amiable friend the princess lived, --are pulling them down every now and then, and constructing houses similar to ours, so that most of the superior chiefs have now tolerably well built cottages. The present value of the houses, stores, and public buildings, built there, is computed at £200,000. Upwards of 1000 vessels have anchored within the bay since the colony was first founded in 1840, and in 1814 five vessels arrived direct from it in Britain, loaded with native produce, viz. oil, whalebone, flax, ornamental woods, and wool, the whole valued at £60,000.

The valley of the Hutt, where it was originally intended to have placed the town, is now getting fast into cultivation. It is fortunate that it was abandoned as a township, as the water on one occasion, rose three or four feet in several of the huts, so that some of the guests of a gentleman, who happened to give a ball and supper at that time, arrived in their boats, instead of their carriages; and instead of a stable had to use an anchor. The soil in this valley, when cleared of the timber, is rich beyond measure, being eight or ten feet deep of beautiful black vegetable mould, and will consequently require no manure for many years.

[Image of page 63]

Mr. Molesworth cleared 100 acres in this valley, previous to his departure for this country in 1844, and his potatoe crop, in 1842, produced twelve tons per acre, some of which he sold at £10 a ton, or at the rate of £120 per acre, though the circumstance of his having obtained that price, even for a small quantity, arose from the colony being then comparatively in its infancy. The average return per acre of land in this valley, is forty bushels of wheat, and ten tons of potatoes. The natives, when they dig their potatoes, leave the small ones in the ground to grow larger, --an admirable plan, as there is no frost to hurt them in that country. Some of Mr. Molesworth's potatoes, the produce of native seed, measured nine inches in length, and the wheat grown in this valley, was five feet and a half in length, and the ears full and large in proportion. The cost of clearing, fencing, planting, hoeing, and digging, the first crop of potatoes, amounted to about £30 an acre, so that the expence of clearing the land of its heavy timber, (averaging £20 an acre), was repaid by the first crop. There are 7000 acres surveyed and given out in this valley, which may be said to comprise all the level land in it, but as most of the sections are very good, when they come all to be cleared and rendered available, which will be the case in the course of a couple of years, the produce, with two crops in the year, will be immense, --sufficient, it is thought, for the whole inhabitants of that district. Those settlers who are located at Aglionby, on the Hutt, about two miles from its embouchure, are chiefly sawyers and labourers, employed on the clearings in the valley.

The land at Wellington is becoming valuable, par-

[Image of page 64]

ticularly in the immediate vicinity of the water; and the houses now extend along the whole of the beach frontage of the town, or nearly three miles. The average rent of land on the beach is about sixteen shillings per lineal foot of street frontage, and all land within half a mile of it lets advantageously. The merchandise and provisions in the different stores are estimated at £400,000, a large sum for a colony of only six years standing; and there are now three breweries in the town, and five wind, water, and steam mills.

The want of roads, so long a drawback to the prosperity of Wellington, is now, in a great measure, supplied. There is an excellent carriage road to Petoni, six miles distant, which has been lately extended up the valley of the Hutt; and from the upper valley of that river, a cattle or bridle path has been formed to the magnificent valley of the Wairarapa, thirty miles from Wellington, containing 400,000 acres of good arable and pasture land, passing through the Ruamahunga plains, containing 100,000 acres, and situated about twenty miles from Wellington, thereby opening up to that district half a million acres of available land. A road or cattle path, five feet broad, has also been opened up to Porirua, sixteen miles distant, by the road, from whence cattle can be driven to Wanganui and Taranaki. Where these cattle tracks are widened, and rendered available for carts and bullock teams, the thing will be complete. The country around Port Nicholson is considered perhaps the best adapted for settlers of capital, who do not depend on immediate return, on account of its extreme fertility; but Wanganui, Manawatu, and New Plymouth, in the North Island, and Nelson on the Middle, are perhaps more

[Image of page 65]

suitable for rearing flocks and herds, as the land there, from not being so heavily timbered, can be cleared and cultivated with less outlay.

The natives at Port Nicholson are becoming quite domesticated with the settlers, and a few of them live in their houses. They are so fond of being dressed like the British, that one of the merchants at Wellington had the names of one hundred of them at one time in his books, to whom he had furnished clothing, &c. and they are very honourable in discharging their debts. Being great misers, many of them are becoming opulent; and Mr. Smith, the intelligent manager of the Wellington Bank, estimates the amount of their capital in houses, money, &c, at £150,000.

The cattle turned out to graze round Wellington get comparatively fat, without having, at times, any grass to eat, as they feed very much on the Kraka laurel, a good supply of which makes even a cow in the stall give abundance of milk. The Hon. Mr. Petre mentions, that oxen which were worked all day, and only turned loose at night, had reached 900 pounds weight, which astonished him very much, as he adds, "What the cattle and sheep do feed upon I am unable to say; they browse, to a great extent, on the young shoots of various trees and shrubs, and find great abundance of nourishing food even before any grasses spring up. The rapidity with which they fatten is very remarkable." Mr. Thorp says, "Poultry, pigs, and cattle thrive well, almost in every part where there are bushes, herbs, plantain-leaf, and a little grass. Cattle occasionally take a bite of the fern, but, as the natives do of its roots, because other food is scarce." There are now 3000 cattle, and 10,000 sheep, in the vicinity of Wellington, besides pigs innumerable.

[Image of page 66]

PETRE. --This town has been colonized chiefly with settlers from Port Nicholson. It is named after Lord Petre's son, and is beautifully situated on the river Wanganui, about four miles from its embouchure in Cook's Straits. The river there is about 1000 feet in width, with an average depth of two fathoms at low water; but as it is a bar harbour, no vessel drawing more than eight feet of water, or about 150 tons burden, can enter the river with safety. The country all round is much more free from timber than in many other parts of New Zealand, being chiefly covered with fern and flax. The fern land at Wanganui costs from £5 to £8 an acre to clear and extirpate its immense roots, but, like the land in the valley of the Hutt, will require no manure for several years, it being only necessary after each crop, to turn up a fresh soil by ploughing sufficiently deep, when it is ready for immediate cultivation.

Petre is beautifully situated on level ground, and the site of the town, including streets, &c. covers 700 acres. In the course of a few years all the available land betwixt it and Port Nicholson, one hundred and ten miles distant, will be more or less in a state of cultivation. The settlers are in good spirits, and already amount in numbers to 400 individuals, besides natives. There are now roads, or more properly speaking cattle tracks, opened up from it, both to Wellington and New Plymouth, from which latter it is distant ninety miles. A large tribe of natives live near the Wanganui. At some little distance to the north-west of Wanganui, on the shore, is the river Waimate, celebrated as the place where, on the shipwreck of the "Harriet," a fierce struggle ensued between the natives and Europeans, in which several were killed on both sides. Though

[Image of page 67]

this conflict was mainly owing to the conduct of the Europeans, yet Her Majesty's vessel, "Alligator," afterwards inflicted a severe and summary punishment on the natives; which has filled them ever since with an awful, and almost superstitious, horror for the guns of a ship.

New Plymouth. -- This was the second of the New Zealand Company's settlements, and has been founded in the Taranaki district, thirty miles from Mount Egmont. This district, from being the finest in that country, has been called the "Garden of New Zealand." The Company would probably have placed their chief town there, instead of Port Nicholson, had there been a good harbour, but there is only an open roadstead, and when a strong north west wind blows, no vessels of any size can lie there with safety, though the moorings lately formed, remedy in some measure this defect. The produce of this valuable district will probably therefore be conveyed for shipment to Port Nicholson, from which it is distant 200 miles. Some few of the settlers there have already gone to it, and these, with the great body of emigrants from Plymouth in England, whence it derives its name, now form a population of about 1500 individuals. It is said that a plough could run straight along that district for fifty miles, if steered in the direction of Wanganui, at the back of Mount Egmont. This mountain is worthy of a special notice, as it is certainly by far the grandest and most sublime object I ever saw, worthy of a visit to New Zealand, though one were to see nothing else. My friend Dr. Dieffenbach, in his excellent Travels in New Zealand, published in 1843, gives such an interesting account

[Image of page 68]

of his journey to the top of that mountain, that I must refer my readers, who are curious on such subjects, to his work. Though at one time supposed to be nearly ten thousand feet high, yet he calculates the height, from certain data which he points out, at 8839 feet, or about eight times higher than Arthur's Seat, near Edinburgh. He came to the line of perpetual snow, at a point about 1600 feet below the summit. The ground round its base is almost level, which adds greatly to its magnificence. Dr. Dieffenbach concludes his description of this celebrated mountain in these words: --"Mount Egmont, and the smiling open land at its base, will become as celebrated for their beauty as the Bay of Naples, and will attract travellers from all parts of the globe."

NELSON--situated on the Middle Island, in Blind Bay, or Tasman's Gulf, at the south west entry of Cook's Straits, is also one of the Company's settlements, and was founded in 1841. The climate there is infinitely better than at Port Nicholson, from being both warmer, and not nearly so much exposed to heavy gales. The harbour, which may be said to be formed by nature, will admit vessels of 500 tons burthen. Nelson is not far distant from Waimea, Moutura, Mowtuaka, and Wairoa, where 125,000 acres of available land have been discovered; the plains in these several districts being almost all open, and covered principally with fern, grass, and other herbage. It is also near to Massacre Bay, where they have discovered most excellent coal and lime, and, in consequence of that, have now changed the name to Coal Bay.

The Nelson district may be considered the most open perhaps in that country, and is, therefore, well

[Image of page 69]

adapted for pasture and flax. The Auckland Gazette, when noticing, in November, 1841, an advertisement of town, suburban, and country allotments for sale there, makes the following remark: --"Nelson will not be an obscure provincial town, but in all probability will be the capital of the great South Island. It will have immediately a considerable population." This population, including the Germans, who lately arrived, now amounts to 3000.

In the Middle Island there is another thriving settlement called Akaroa, in Bank's Peninsula, where there is a tolerable harbour, adjoining a good agricultural district. In this settlement, in addition to a population of 200 British, there are about 100 French, who are all doing well, many who had not a sous on dissembarking from the "Comte de Paris," in 1840, being already possessed of several thousand francs.

NEW EDINBURGH--Port Otago was fixed upon in 1844, as the site of this settlement, and several hundred emigrants, chiefly Scotch, are about to embark for it. It must be considered, on the whole, a most desirable locality, nearly as much so as any of the Company's other settlements; indeed, the whole of them have been most judiciously selected. Port Otago is a splendid bay, several miles wide, and extending about twenty miles into the interior of the country, with deep water and safe anchorage on all sides. It is situate on the Middle Island, now called New Munster, about 200 miles to the south of Bank's Peninsula, and about 400 from Port Nicholson. The ground to the north of it is high, but to the south, as far as Foveaux's Straits, 150 miles distant, it is toler-

[Image of page 70]

ably level, and the hills are of moderate height. The greater part of the natives now in the Middle Island are settled there, and as their numbers amount to about a thousand, they will soon become of great use to the settlers.

The whole British population now settled in New Zealand, may be stated pretty nearly as follows: --

Port Nicholson, including Wellington,Petoni, and Aglionby,.....6000
Auckland, and the Waitemata District,.....3000
Nelson, including 200 Germans,.....3000
New Plymouth and Taranaki,.....1500
Bay of Islands, including Russell, (Kororarika,) and the Church of England Missionary Settlements,.....800
New Edinburgh,.....500
Petre and Wanganui,.....400
Akaroa, including 100 French,.....300
Hokianga,....200
And at the different Whaling Stations,.....700
In all,..... 16,400

THE ABORIGINES. --The amount of the native population, owing to wars and various other causes, has been gradually decreasing. Dr. Dieffenbach, gives an accurate list of the various tribes, and computes their whole number as amounting at present to 114,890, though in Captain Cook's time they were supposed to amount to 300,000. They may be said to inhabit the Northern Island almost exclusively, as there are probably not above 2000 in the Middle Island, and none in Stewart's Island, with the exception of a few brought from other parts, and living with the Whalers.

[Image of page 71]

The natives in the Middle Island are chiefly settled at Otago, where New Edinburgh is placed; and there are a few at Cloudy Bay, two or three tribes at Massacre Bay, and one tribe near Nelson, and at one or two other places. They call themselves Maori, which means indigenous or aboriginal, in opposition to Pakea, which means a stranger. Their colour is of a light clear brown, varying much in shade, and sometimes even lighter than a native of the south of France. Their features are in general good, though their mouths are somewhat large, and their lips generally thick, but their eyes are dark and full of vivacity and expression, and their whole physiognomy exceedingly open and pleasing, bearing no signs whatever of ferocity, but exhibiting great placidity and composure. The females are not nearly so handsome as the men, and, though treated with great kindness, are burdened with the greater part of the heavy work, such as cultivating the fields, carrying wood and provisions from their distant plantations, &c.

One of the most powerful tribes is that of the Waikato numbering 25,000, and comprising eighteen subdivisions, inhabiting the country about a hundred miles to the north of the New Plymouth settlement. It was this tribe which drove the numerous tribes in the Taranaki district, into the country on both sides of Cook's Straits, and the natives at Port Nicholson are amongst the number who were driven away. Rauperaha, the leader of one of the divisions of the Nga-te-awa tribe, also yielded at one time to this tribe, and took possession of a district of country east from Wanganui, called Rauperaha after him, not far from Porirua, besides other places, including the district of country at Cloudy Bay, in the Middle Island,

[Image of page 72]

called the Wairoa Plains, the scene of the late massacre, he having conquered the original tribes settled there. The most numerous tribe of all, is that called Nga-te-Kahuhunu, estimated at 36,000, and inhabiting the east coast, from Waiapou to Hawke Bay. They formerly lived as far down as Port Nicholson, but were driven thence by the Nga-te-awa tribe, with whom they have lately made a peace. The natives in Cook's Straits are estimated at 6400.

I may mention here in passing, that the only advantage which Auckland possesses over Port Nicholson, is from being in the centre of the greater part of the native population of that country; and Dr. Dieffenbach takes notice of this also, as he says, in reference to Auckland, "In short, it appears to me that there can be no question but that the place has been very judiciously chosen for the site of a town, as commanding a great extent of cultivable land in its neighbourhood, great facility of communication with the coast and the interior, and as being a central point for the most powerful native tribes, the Nga-pui to the northward, the Waikato to the southward, and the Nga-te-hauwa to the eastward, separating them in a military point of view, but uniting them for the purposes of civilization and commerce." Till of late there was one custom prevalent amongst the New Zealanders, as amongst all savage nations, namely, that the crime of an individual involved his whole tribe, little reference being had to the individual who actually committed the crime. It was in vain to represent to them, that the criminal alone should suffer; their answer was ready, and it is perfectly consistent with the dictates of natural justice, that as his tribe would not give him up to be punished for

[Image of page 73]

his crime, they became, in consequence, participators in it. A war would then commence betwixt the two tribes; and the circumstance of those who survived among the defeated party having had to leave their pahs or native villages, accounts for the number of these that are to be found every where deserted. In New South Wales also, when any of the aborigines are killed by the whites, the former are sure to kill the first of the latter they meet, and thus the innocent have frequently to suffer for the guilty.

This custom, however barbarous it may at first sight appear, is really, after all, but little different from that which exists among civilized nations. Were an American, for instance, to shoot our Queen, and escape to his own country, and were the government there to refuse to deliver him up, a war would inevitably follow from the conduct of this single individual. The late affair of MacLeod, which is a case in point, almost involved the two greatest nations of the earth in a sanguinary war. Among savage tribes, the slaughter of a hundred or two on each side, generally puts an end to the matter; but these two civilized nations would probably have carried on till a hundred thousand, at least, had disappeared. Oh, that men were wise, that they would consider these things.

Of the three grand or staple productions of New Zealand, namely, flax, oil, and timber, the flax is undoubtedly the most important. This plant, though found in dry ground, flourishes best in swampy ground, and grows wild in every part of the country; that growing in hilly ground being of a different species from that which grows on swampy. In some marshy spots it has attained the height of thirteen feet, with a leaf six inches broad. The manufacture

[Image of page 74]

of it has already commenced at Wellington, and some vessels have been supplied with cordage, &c. from it. Several country sections have also been chosen on the sea coast, near to Port Nicholson, for flax farms, on land which, from the exposed situation and poverty of soil, would not produce grain, or be at all adapted for general agriculture. Colonel Wakefield says, in one of his despatches, "It is impossible to overrate the value of flax as a staple article of commerce; and the only impediment to its introduction into Europe and America has been removed, by the discovery of a cheap method of preparing large quantities for export, in reduced bulk, and without injury to the fibre. A short time only will elapse before our settlement will provide a profitable return cargo for the foreign vessels visiting Cook's Straits." The Hon. Mr. Petre says, in like manner, "Although I will not venture to anticipate what profit the future cultivator of New Zealand flax is likely to realize, I have a very strong conviction that it will be our staple article of export; and that like the wool of New South Wales, its profitableness will be such, as to make it not worth while, for many years to come, to invest capital in any other exportable commodity."

Though it grows wild every where, yet the best districts are at Taranaki and Hawke Bay, in the North Island; and at Nelson, on the Middle Island, which is considered preferable even to the Taranaki district, from the country being more open, and more abundantly watered. The more recent accounts received in this country in regard to this article are very favourable, as will appear from the following paragraph which appeared in the New Zealand Jour-

[Image of page 75]

nal of 17th February, 1844, published in London once a fortnight.

"The Nelson, which has recently arrived from New Zealand, brings replies to despatches and advices by the "Ursula," the first of Mr. Earp's packet ships. The "Ursula" made her passage to the colony in 110 days, and the letters received by the Nelson were in reply to others from home, written only eight months previous; the most rapid communication that has yet taken place with the colony. The Nelson brings a few tons of flax, exported by Messrs. Ridgways, Guyton, and Earp, of a very superior quality, fully equal to the best Russian hemp, and of longer staple. This flax was prepared by machines made in the colony, and the quality of the article is such as at once to set at rest the question of the possibility of preparing New Zealand flax in a state fit for the home market. With the improvements which experience will suggest, there can be now no doubt but that, in a short time, flax, equal to the best Flemish specimens, will arrive from the colony, which will thus speedily possess a staple article of export, limited only by the scarcity of labour necessary for its production, and equal to that of oil--for which New Zealand is rapidly becoming the depot of the Pacific Ocean." A cheap plan of preparing it has been lately discovered, by merely boiling it in a solution of potash, or wood ashes.

Oil is the next valuable staple commodity. From May to December, the different bays in Cook's Straits, and on the east coast of the Middle Island, are much frequented by the black whale; and the sperm whale is found in great abundance in the surrounding ocean,

[Image of page 76]

not far from land. The whales of New Zealand are said to yield one-fourth more of oil than those of a similar size or species in any other part of the world. The black whales have no teeth, consuming their food by suction. The sperm whales, on the contrary, have teeth, and, in general, do not exceed sixty feet in length, whereas, the black whales are sometimes a hundred. The former, however, are the most dreaded by the whalers, from its being so often dangerous to attack them. One of them, to whom they gave the name of New Zealand Tom, was long celebrated for the havoc he made among the ship's boats. Tom seemed to be delighted at the sensation which he produced; and spent occasionally an hour before breakfast at his favourite amusement, by way of a lark, and with the view, no doubt, of improving his appetite.

The principal whaling stations in New Zealand were, till of late, in the hands of the Sydney merchants; but the settlers on the spot have now become formidable rivals to them. In the year 1838, one single mercantile house in Sydney, exported to London seventy tons of whalebone, which is produced exclusively from the black whale; and as each whale yields about five hundred weight of bone, the number required to supply the above quantity of whalebone must have been 284. The Americans, however, have perhaps the greatest number of large vessels engaged in this trade of any nation, as they have upwards of 500 whalers in the Pacific Ocean, while the English have only about 160, and the French 140. The quantity of oil imported into that country amounted in 1838 to 129, 400 barrels of sperm oil, and 228, 710 barrels of black. Indeed, till of late, they injured the

[Image of page 77]

local fisheries very much, as sometimes twenty American and foreign vessels have been seen at one time at the entrance of Cloudy Bay, in Cook's Straits, intercepting the whales as they approached the shore; and sailors on board of whale ships are very active, as they are paid in shares, at the end of the voyage, according to the net proceeds of the oil.

"Shore parties," as they are termed, for capturing the black whale, (sperm whales never coming within reach of a shore party,) are now forming rapidly in Cook's Straits and other parts; composed chiefly of emigrants who have gone to settle in that country. Captain Daniell almost loaded a vessel called the "Brougham," from his own fishing station at Porirua, about fourteen miles from Port Nicholson, in the year 1842, which was the first vessel that sailed direct from that country to England loaded with oil, and made the passage in ninety-two days. These shore parties have large boats, and being constantly on the lookout, when the whales make their appearance, they man their boats and seldom fail in capturing them: and the process of cutting them up and boiling them, generally takes place on shore. This, besides being more economical, is more advantageous for New Zealand than sending out ships on a three year's voyage; for though that may be necessary when the whales are at a distance, yet, as on the coasts of that country, they come so frequently within reach of boats from the shore, the great cost of pursuing them with ships is saved. "This advantage," Mr. Petre says, "is well understood by the settlers at Port Nicholson, who bid fair to be the purchasers of the greater part of the oil made at the stations already established, and have begun to form new stations." It is evident

[Image of page 78]

that a great part of the black oil, in particular, which was procured at New Zealand, and shipped for this country at Sydney, will, in future, be conveyed in the boats and small vessels which they have begun to use on the spot, into merchant ships about to return home direct, so that the Sydney, American, and French trade will soon be annihilated. The first shipments of oil and flax direct from New Zealand to Britain, of any extent, commenced in 1843, as will appear from the following despatch from Colonel Wakefield, the Company's principal agent at Wellington, to the secretary in London, dated 18th September, 1843.

"I have information from the coast, where the natives are apprehensive of a visit from the man-of-war. They remember with awe the power exhibited by the "Alligator" and the "Pelorus." They have a great fear of regular troops, and particularly of the guns of a ship; but I must repeat that continued impunity will encourage them to petty assaults on individuals, and the entire obstruction of the further settlement of the country.

"I am happy to be able to assure you that, with the exception of the state of the natives, this settlement is in a much more prosperous state than when I last wrote; and, considering the fearful impediments to colonization, by reason of the unsettled state of titles to land, than could reasonably be expected.

"The whale season, now drawing to a conclusion, has turned out to be very successful. The quantity of oil taken in the Bay fisheries, which will be exported principally from this port, on account of the supplies furnished by the merchants of Wellington, will not be far short of two thousand tons.

"The preparation and exportation of the native

[Image of page 79]

flax have long been subjects of untiring assiduity and interest amongst our settlers, and have this year yielded important profits, and a valuable accession of wealth to the place. Partial cargoes of that prepared by the natives are constantly shipped to Sydney and Hobart Town; and full ones to England may be relied on, if intelligence, in answer to inquiries on the subject, should satisfy us that the price to be obtained there will render it an advantageous remittance. Hitherto, no process of preparing the flax has been entirely approved of, as sufficiently economical and expeditious to supersede the method in use by the aborigines; but various modes are under trial, and await only the supply of machinery from Sydney to be tested. Should any of them succeed, the exportation of their produce would be steady, and limited only by the demand for it.

"The "Nelson" brig, which takes this, will sail from hence to-morrow direct for London, with a full cargo of oil and flax. The "Tyne" will take all her dead weight in oil from this port and other parts of Cook's Straits, and the "Lady Leigh" will sail direct for England with a full cargo of oil in about six weeks."

Though Mr. Thorp says that whalers had left their ports as provisions had become dear, and whales scarce, and though Dr. Dieffenbach predicts that in a few years there will be none at all, yet Mr. Heaphy maintains, on the contrary, that this is not the case; for after stating that during the year 1841, upwards of 1800 tons of oil, and seventy tons of bone, had been obtained at the various fisheries, the worth of which, in England, would be nearly £60,000, he adds, "it is generally imagined in England, that the fisheries on the New Zealand coast are declining, and

[Image of page 80]

that ere long, the trade will cease to be profitable, but this idea is erroneous. There can be no doubt of the fact, that fewer whales are taken at some of the stations than was the case formerly, but this is no proof that a less number frequent the coast. The establishment of so many whaling parties along the coast, causes such competition, that there are actually more fish caught now than at any other period since the commencement of the enterprize. As a proof of this, I may mention, that the value of the oil exported from Sydney, was, in 1830, £59,471; in 1835, £180,349; and in 1840, £224,144; which proves an increase of nearly four times the quantity and value. Much of this oil is obtained at New Zealand; probably more than one half, as there are but few fisheries, comparatively, on the Australian shores; and the number of whaling vessels fitted out there is small." The above statement by Mr. Heaphy, is fully borne out by Colonel Wakefield's despatches.

The third staple commodity of New Zealand is timber, of which some kinds are adapted for furniture, and others for spars, masts of ships, and sawn planks. Of the Kauri pine, which is the only timber (with the exception of some wood adapted for furniture,) exported from that country to England, Australia, and the East Indies, there is none nearer than 200 miles to the north of Port Nicholson, as it does not grow to the south of thirty-eight degrees of south latitude; but from its growing almost invariably upon a poor soil, which, after being cleared of the timber, is not worth cultivating; the inhabitants there, would rather dispense with it on that account, as they have other woods which are equally useful, particularly for furniture, though not so large. The largest specimen

[Image of page 81]

of the species is at Mercury Bay, seventy-five feet in circumference, though it grows to the greatest perfection in the Hokianga district, where it frequently attains the height of a hundred feet, and thirty feet in circumference, though the highest timber trees there, fit for the royal navy, are nearly all gone, those remaining being good for logs, but not for spars, and therefore the timber trade there is on the decline. From its durability, elasticity, and size, besides being easily wrought, it was occasionally used by the Board of Admiralty for spars, masts, &c, in their various dock-yards; and I have seen in Sydney the most beautiful floors laid with it in some of the more fashionable houses. The shipment of spars, however, has never been a profitable trade, owing to the great expense of bringing them to the water side.

Extensive fields of coal have been discovered in different parts of New Zealand. At Massacre Bay, in the Middle Island, situated in Tasman's Gulf, there is enough on the surface for the supply of all the settlements for many years to come; and there is no occasion for steam engines or mining, as in England, as it is procured by merely excavating horizontally through the cliffs from the beach. One cargo of it that was taken to Wellington, was found to give a great heat, and leave no ashes, though it burned away rather too fast to make it economical for poor emigrants. Coal has also been discovered at Port Nicholson, and at Mokau, in the Taranaki district; whilst at Port Otago, in the Middle Island, where New Edinburgh has been placed, about fourteen miles up the river, there are large beds of it, of which the natives make no earthly use.

The shores of New Zealand abound with various

[Image of page 82]

fish suitable for the palate, and they expect soon to carry on an extensive trade in dried and cured fish. The habouka, or abuka, which sometimes weighs nearly a hundred pounds, is a wonderfully good fish for its size. The moki, weighing about twenty pounds, is also tolerably good; and the kawai, or New Zealand salmon, though by some amateurs considered equal to ours, would no doubt be much prized by the slaves in Brazil, as being infinitely preferable to the flesh of the shark, and the whale, which they eat there. Most of the fish, however, of which I partook when at New Zealand, was so strong tasted, compared to ours, that I am satisfied the people there eat of it, as the cattle do of the fern, because they can get no other.