A Summer's Excursion in New Zealand

John L. C. (John Larkins Cheese) Richardson

First published by Kerby and Sons in 1854

Digitised and made available online by Auckland Libraries and the University of Auckland Libraries and Learning Services.

Epub © 2014 Early New Zealand Books Collection

ISBN 978-1-927289-72-3

[TITLE PAGES]

A
SUMMER'S EXCURSION
IN
NEW ZEALAND,

WITH GLEANINGS FROM OTHER WRITERS.

BY AN OLD BENGALEE.

"I have warm wishes for the land of my birth, but the land of my adoption is the proper sphere of my duties." – -Burke.

LONDON:

KERBY AND SONS, 190, OXFORD STREET. EXETER: WILLIAM ROBERTS, 197, HIGH STREET.
1854.

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[CONTENTS]

CHAPTER I. – Introduction........ 3

CHAPTER II. – Emigration necessary. New Zealand selected: its climate; its civil, religious, social, and educational advantages; the Church of England in New Zealand; opportunities for investing capital; sheep farming, cattle fanning, land, and agriculture; the geographical situation of the country as regards trade............ 8

CHAPTER III. – An historical review. The New Zealand Company, the Missionaries, and the Government ........................... 36

CHAPTER IV. – A geographical sketch with geological and botanical gleanings................55

CHAPTER V. – A glimpse at Auckland, Canterbury, and Nelson..............80

CHAPTER VI. – A description of Otago, with Journal............105

CHAPTER VII. – A description of Wellington, with Journal, including sketches of the Hutt, Otaki, Whanganui, and forest travelling.............139

CHAPTER VIII. – A description of New Plymouth, with Journal, including sketches of the rivers Waitera and Whanganui; with a parting review of Otaki, its inhabitants, and the Maoris generally...........192

CHAPTER IX. – A retrospective glance, with a few hints to intending Emigrants.............242

APPENDIX. – Acknowledgments of assistance received, and advice to readers............249

Meteorological Table .............251

Census Tables of population, religious denominations, live stock, &c.............252

Sheep statement and calculations......................256

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CHAPTER I.

CHAPTER I.

THE reader may, perhaps, have occasionally found that a rough and ill-finished sketch has sometimes succeeded in conveying to his mind a more correct impression of one or more features in a portrait or landscape than he has derived from the faultless production of the accomplished artist, a result not improbably arising from that feature obtaining an undue prominence, or from being somewhat caricatured. Such hasty delineations often appear in the loose notes of the traveller, who jots down in his memorandum book whatever strikes him in the country through which he roams, and in the people among whom he sojourns. In submitting to the public these notes, which owe their origin to a similar experience, the keen edge of criticism may be softened by the reflection, if uninfluenced by more charitable feelings, of the great probability of the bank by which they are circulated being rather impoverished than enriched by the paper issue. It, however, may be just possible that the too lively colours of the more finished production may be tempered, or the too dull be enlivened; be that as it may, the one will ever find a place among our cherished authors, while the other will be useful, after

its transient flutter, in the voluminous applications of the store keeper.

Shall I say that an ignis fatuus dancing at the antipodes allured me to read and think much of New Zealand, attracted me to its shores, and to investigate its claims? No: the advantages which it presents are not delusive, and though its mines may not glitter with gold, and nuggets of portentous dimensions may not be transferred from its bosom to the pocket, there are sources of wealth which will afford to honest industry, not only a competency, but health wherewith to enjoy it; but of this more hereafter. Once decided upon personally examining its means of affording a comfortable and independent home to a young family, when its only parent was no more, I furnished myself with several popular works on the subject, hoping, on reaching the land of promise, to be the better able to test the reported richness of its milk and sweetness of its honey. The perusal of these works formed a mental picture which I constantly compared with the original, and, if the agreement was not, in all cases, so close as I expected, perhaps, a defect of vision may have imparted to the former some features which did not really belong to it. I have readily availed myself of every means within my reach for the formation of a sound judgment, but have found it undesirable, even had it been practicable, to attach to each borrowed thought or fact its due acknowledgement, without at once covering these loose sheets with the hieroglyphics of a never ceasing marginal reference; and, indeed, I was the more

deterred from such a procedure by the consideration, that in my selections, or rather absorptions, I have appropriated, by a sort of mental digestion, those parts only which agreed with my own conviction, whether the result of observation, inference, or the testimony of others; and, consequently, this notice will, once for all, acknowledge with aggregated gratitude the assistance I have received. 1 Whilst writing these lines a thought suggests itself, that this studied acknowledgement confers too much notice on a volume which, after all, by an inversion of the usual process, may have only retained the husk and rejected the kernel, and may, moreover, excite expectations which are doomed to the withering blight of disappointment. If such be the case, I must plead in extenuation, a sincere desire to extricate myself from the horns of the dilemma of piratically appropriating, without due acknowledgement, what was not my own, or of attributing to another what was not his, and which he was the better without; for to whom, without an insult, could I ascribe the conglomerate of

geology, the weeds of botany, or the "kiwis" of natural history?

Having written this note introductory of a stranger to public attention, I will merely say, that in assuming an incognito I have followed the example set by the writers of some of the best extant works on New Zealand; and would anticipate an inference by confessing (at the same time dropping the odious personal pronoun,) that the author aspires not to so eminent a position, though he is not without hope that his work may have its value; he is neither ambitious of the distinctions which successful authorship confers, of which he runs but little risk, nor can he claim exemption from those feelings which a glaring want of success entails, which is a more likely result, and therefore he equally eschews all advantages and disagreeables. His object is simply to do good, to communicate in his own unpretending way, without the necessity of recalling classical associations, with which his mind is but scantily provided, the impressions which a summer's excursion produced: at the same time he has endeavoured to collect and re-arrange such useful information as may guide a parent in providing for a family, or a benefactor for a deserving dependent. What measure of success has attended his efforts it is for the public to decide, who must not expect either originality of idea, or treasured tales imbibed in social intercourse to be retailed in their proper season, for if there be one word which might be reasonably deemed offensive, the author would wish that word expunged. If a single fa-

mily or individual among the middling and lower classes should be induced, by a careful perusal of these pages, to transplant himself to this antipodal England, after having most religiously counted the cost, and nerved himself for the conflict, the author will feel that the labour he has undergone in their preparation has been most richly repaid, as he is confident that the sober, honest, industrious man, with patient endurance of toil, will most assuredly reap a richer harvest for himself and family than he could have reaped in the land of his birth, and that too without any sacrifice of those patriotic feelings which neither distance, circumstance, nor time should ever lessen or destroy.

1 In consideration of the impatience which a reader generally experiences at the introduction of any extraneous topics, or a formidable array of figures, which inflict an additional tax on the attention, such subjects have been deposited in the appendix, (a) to which he is earnestly solicited to refer as he pauses at the close of each chapter. The author is not unaware of the fate which notes (except those of a bank) usually meet with, and therefore an early appeal is made in their behalf. A "material guarantee" has been effected in favour of the introduction, or preface, which generally shares the same fate, by according to it the elevated position of Chapter No.1.

CHAPTER II.

CHAPTER II.

IT was but a few short years ago, when war had ceased to scourge and disease to depopulate, now unhappily no longer the case, that the politician, the philosopher, and the patriot cast many an anxious glance at the overflowing population of our highly favoured isle. It was evident that things could not remain as they were, depletion was necessary, or, to use language more in accordance with our commercial pursuits, it was absolutely requisite that the steam should be let off. A population increasing at the rate of five millions in every ten years; a poor-law expenditure as in 1848, for England alone of six millions, and of £3 2/5, 4/5, & 2 2/5 for each individual relieved in England, Scotland, and Ireland respectively, was a fearful picture to behold. The disciple of Malthus eyed it with dismay; the politician and the patriot bemoaned the increased dependence abroad for the necessaries of life, and convoked the past to bear testimony to the danger of the future; the agriculturist fretted at the thought of resorting to foreign countries for cereal produce and bewailed the effects on the price of corn and the evident decadence of national prosperity, a feeling in which the labourer exhibited a practical and compulsory sympathy by the receipt of lessened wages; the manu-

facturer, perhaps, rejoiced in the greater home market, but his human machinery, his helpmates, while they joyfully acknowledged the regular demand for their toil, winced under the effect of competition and the superabundance of labour; the professions staggered beneath the profusion of diplomas and degrees; the monetary departments got bewildered amidst the heaps of unemployed capital, and the multitude of clerks; and the storekeeper among the applicants for office. The lancet was in universal requisition; the opening of the safety-valve demanded in every direction. Relief came, as is not seldom the case, from the quarter whence it was least expected. Famine and disease buried their hundreds of thousands, drove an equal number beyond the Atlantic to less densely populated lands, while the magnetic influence of gold allured as many more to the Pacific. These combined causes greatly relieved the country; but the emigration was chiefly confined to the labouring classes. There is still much, very much, anxious thought for the morrow in many an aching heart. The man of limited capital, or he who derives his subsistence from a subordinate official or mercantile situation, dependant on a breath, cannot but feel, that though he may be able to keep himself above water, the clouds lower and the horizon darkens over his rising family. He naturally and anxiously casts his eyes around to see whether there is not some harbour of refuge, some way in which he can invest his capital in which the returns would be greater, more certain, and, perhaps, afford

some occupation for his youngsters in its employment. The colonies are represented as supplying such an opportunity, and to them he will, if wise, devote much serious and anxious inquiry. He will find no lack of works written on the advantages presented by each, and he will make his selection or a colony according to his peculiar views, microscopically investigating the advantages set before him, so that he may be assured of their reality. In fixing a steady gaze upon New Zealand I was chiefly influenced by the following considerations: its healthiness; its civil, religious, and social advantages; its affording the means for the profitable investment of capital; and its position as regards trade. Though exposed to the objection of treading on beaten paths (and which writer of some fifty who, up to 1848, have worn out the nibs of their pens in such a way, is free from the objection?) I will note down what I believe to be a few facts connected with the above points.

There is scarcely an assertion regarding New Zealand which is supported by so great an unanimity of testimony as that which describes its climateas most excellent. Independently of this consideration, which, however, is one worthy of the greatest weight, we find among the chief causes which modify climate, there are some which affect New Zealand; viz, insularity, remoteness from continents, and narrowness, by which a larger surface is exposed to the equalizing influence of the sea breeze. As an illustration we might allude to the fact that the southern shores of Italy receive the hot blasts of Africa

much tempered by traversing the Mediterranean; and, that the north-west winds of New Zealand imbibe an appreciable amount of heat in passing over its central rocky districts. But to pass to more evident facts. If we refer to the appearance of the aboriginals we find them to be a powerfully formed race, and until the introduction of European disease, remarkably free from sickness, as are still the inhabitants bordering on Lake Taupo. It is well to bear this in mind, because an inference has been drawn from the prevalence of scrofula and consumption among the natives that there is a tendency in the climate to produce these forms of disease. Such, however, is most certainly not the case in all the northern districts; though I have heard it asserted that the changeableness in the most southern parts is not favourable where consumption actually exists. If we regard the offspring of the European and Maori we find a class far superior to any other existing mixed race, and if we look to the healthiness and increase of imported European cattle and sheep the same favourable result appears, while the European flora offers an equally high enconium. The appearance of the settlers and their children is indicative of enjoyable health; and, especially with reference to the latter, there is not that physical deterioration which is apparent in the neighbouring continent.

The highest medical testimony, based on carefully prepared data, assures us that the amount of sickness and mortality among the European soldiery at home is double what it is in New Zealand; while pectoral com-

plaints are nearly three times more frequent in Great Britain than they are in New Zealand. Rheumatism is sometimes prevalent among the colonists; but, when we consider the exposure to which new settlers are liable, it is only wonderful that it does not more often occur. The subjoined opinion of Dr. Dieffenbach aptly expresses the salubrity of the climate, "The purity of the air, resulting from the continual wind, imparts to the climate a vigour which gives elasticity to the physical powers and to the mind. Heat never debilitates, not even so much as a hot summer's day in England, and near the coast especially there is always a cooling and refreshing breeze. The colonist who occupies himself in agriculture can work all day, and the mechanic will not feel any lassitude whether he work in or out of doors." Considerable difficulty exists in forming any very accurate thermometrical tables, as no general plan of meteorological observations has been followed in the different settlements, and indeed with regard to the temperature of foreign cities, so much variation is found in the authorities to which reference has been made that any trustworthy result could not be prepared. The general impression on my mind arising from personal experience during an unusually rainy season, observation, and the testimony of others, is, that New Zealand possesses a genial and healthy climate, with a fair share of rain equally distributed; that, though not so bracing as that of England, it is never subject to great daily or monthly extremes of temperature, and is consequently fully entitled to the high praise accorded to it.

In the appendix will be found a meteorological table (b) worthy of the attention of those who derive conclusions from the range of the thermometer and rain guage. The prevailing winds are either from the north-east or south east, modified by local influences; the former may be considered a warm balmy wind, usually accompanied by rain, and prevailing during the winter, and the latter, which not unfrequently amounts to a gale, during the summer. Heavy dews fall in winter, and, in the neighbourhood of lakes in the interior, fogs are by no means uncommon. Frost occasionally occurs, though with no severity, but snow sometimes remains on the ground for a few hours. The temperature of different portions of the islands is of course influenced by vicinity to the snowy ranges.

Satisfied on the subject of climate, my attention was next directed to the civil, religious, social, and educational advantages of New Zealand, and much confidence was afforded on these points from the circumstance of the high degree of favour with which the colony was regarded by Government, and by religious and philanthropic associations. The germs of these advantages are already evident, indeed under rapid developement, and, doubtless, in due course, the finely sketched outline will become a satisfactory reality. New Zealand has a liberal constitution, its social position is acknowledged to be high, its religion embraces the more reasonable forms of dissent and the isolation of high churchism, while its educational institutions, to say the least, are fully equal to the amount of population.

The thoughtful colonist will direct his earliest inquiries to the religious aspect of his future home. He will regard all temporal advantages as but dust in the balance if their enjoyment involves a total deprivation of those privileges which his native land so richly affords. If the results of such deprivation would be serious in his own case, at what rate can he estimate them in the case of his rising family? I do not say he will too minutely examine the various phases in which true religion is embodied, but he will doubtless ascertain that the services of some Church are available in which he may worship God in purity, and in which the fundamental doctrines of the Gospel are not buried beneath an overwhelming mass of human inventions. The Church of England colonist will endeavour to ascertain that the daughter in the South Pacific, which adopts her name, is entitled to the distinction, and accepts in all their integrity those "authoritative compositions, her Articles, her Prayer Book, and her Homilies" which caused exceeding admiration in a mind so devout, so intellectual, and so catholic as that of Dr. Chalmers.

In glancing over the tabular statement (c) in the appendix, it will be observed that the members of the Church of England compose rather more than one half of the whole population of the country; those of the Church of Rome one seventh; of the Churches of Scotland and the Free Church, twin sisters, though estranged for a time, above one sixth; and the Wesleyans one eleventh. Choice, as well as circumstances, principally

directed my attention to the first of these Churches; as regards the others I will merely state that, as far as I could learn, the ministry of each is ably and zealously filled. I cannot say whether the Bishop of New Zealand is a decided Puseyite or not; or whether the Church at Christ Church is decidedly Puseyite or otherwise. I have not the ability nor the inclination to grapple with points which have eluded the grasp of subtle intellects and pious minds.

From what I had heard and read I was prepared to find in New Zealand a faint reprint of some parts of the Jewish ritual; a mercy seat to which the priest had preeminently access, and from which, through him alone, or chiefly, the healing waters flowed; an altar from which, through his ministry, the grateful incense with acceptance rose; the candlestick of gold to yield the dim religious light which befits the holiest of holies; the priestly garments and the pride of power, assumed though not acknowledged. A short and limited experience did not present any approximation to a realization of such a conception; of the experience of others, with more extended means of observation and of obtaining knowledge, I cannot speak. It would be a difficult task, to me at least an impracticable one, to define which of the nine or ten classes, into which a writer in the Edinburgh Review divides the Church of England, would best characterize the Church in New Zealand; my ear is not so religiously organized as to appreciate the delicate modulations of such gradations, - I cannot run

through the theological gamut though I instinctively recognize the key note, be the instrument what it may. One thing I know, that the devotedness of the New Zealand Church most forcibly reminded me of the brightest era of the Church of Christ.

Private feelings might induce a wish, considering the occasional emigration towards the Church of Rome from among those who, to a larger or lesser extent, follow the Tractarian views, that, not to notice other distinctions, the use of the cross were confined to baptism, and such unimportant points as crosses on Churches, Bibles, Prayer-books, and offertory bags were not re-introduced. However inoffensive its use may be, perhaps, the recollection that it is opposed to the Protestant mind of Great Britain, and that, moreover, it is generally believed, from being only an affecting memorial of the love of God it has become to millions an object of adoration, may plead powerfully in favour of abstaining from introducing it oftener than it did prevail before the Tractarian publications appeared. The exhortation to more grateful acknowledgement of the vital doctrines in which all Christians agree would do more to nourish that charity "the very bond of peace and of all virtues, without which whosoever liveth is counted dead before God," than the never ending notices of those points on which they unfortunately differ. But to statistics. The Church of England ministry consists of 1 Bishop, 4 Archdeacons, 1 Rural Dean, 39 Clergymen, and 5 Deacons. The Bishoprick was established in 1842. The income of the different

orders is as follows: The Bishop's not exceeding £500; the Archdeacon's not exceeding £400; the Priest's and Deacon's not exceeding £300, commencing at £100 from the date of ordination as Deacon, and increasing £10 per annum. The Canterbury diocese will differ from the above; the Bishop will there receive £1000, the Archdeacon £600, and the Clergy £200 from a separate endowment fund. Of the two scales it is more easy to approve of the distinction made between the Bishop's and Priest's income in the former than in the latter. The incomes for the ministry in the northern island and Nelson are derivable from the funds of the different Archdeaconries, their inequalities being regulated by the Bishop's general endowment fund. Endowments involving the right of private patronage are not accepted, nor are local endowments unless the surplus, regulated as above, be transferable to the Archdeaconry fund. This latter fund is managed by five trustees: the Bishop, Archdeacon, senior Clergyman of the chief town, and two Laymen annually appointed by the Bishop, one nominated by the Clergy and the other by the communicants and approved of by the Bishop. From a note in the New Zealand Church Almanack for 1853 it appears that the lay trustees are not yet selected in any of the archdeaconries. Without entering into the question respecting the desirableness of lay influence, or the undesirableness of ecclesiastical priestly control, it can scarcely escape observation that the Bishop, possessing the power to locate the Clergy according to his own views, of nominat-

ing the Archdeacons, and of approving of the elected Trustees, is really supreme in the Church; and when we connect this with the ordination of college students, educated under his sole guidance, an apprehension almost instinctively arises as to whether we have not lost those checks and compensations which we are accustomed to see in the constitution of the State and the ministration of the Church. Candidates for holy orders are required to place themselves under local clerical direction in the management of schools and public charities, to stay, at least, two terms in the archdeaconry college, and to pledge themselves, when ordained, to go whithersoever ordered, to abstain from acquiring land, or engaging in trade or agriculture without the consent of the Bishop, and not to leave the diocese for seven years without a similar written consent. There appears to be land in the neighbourhood of Auckland belonging to the Church valued at £4440, and other land not valued, but whose value may be estimated at about £800; also at Wellington £4394 in three per cent Stock, yielding £128 per annum; at New Plymouth £1067, yielding £31 2s per annum; and at Nelson £10,873, yielding £475 15s 8d. The Canterbury endowment may be about £10,000.

Since 1843 there have been 17 students of the Auckland college ordained as Deacons, and 5 as Priests; and it is designed that the whole clerical demand of New Zealand shall be supplied from the same quarter.

The college is chiefly intended for educating candidates for holy orders, but students are admitted at an

expense of £36 per annum, for education, commons, and attendance. Industrial occupation in the intervals of study is compulsory. The Propagation Society have made a donation of £1000 to the College, and an additional £1000 to a similar College at Porirua near Wellington.

Some years since an interruption of the friendly feeling which formerly existed between the Missionaries of the Church of England and those connected with other denominations is represented to have taken place owing to the Bishop designating the latter as schismatics, their ordination as invalid, and their baptism as the act of laymen. Such statements have appeared in print under high sanction; whether the charge be admitted or denied I do not know, but experience much pleasure in observing in the New Zealand Church Almanack a reprint of a portion of Prince Albert's speech at the Third Jubilee of the Society for Propagating the Gospel: it is as follows, – "I have no fear for her (the Church's) ultimate safety and welfare so long as she holds fast to what our ancestors gained for us at the Reformation, the Gospel and the unfettered right of its use." Again, when visiting the northern islands, 26 in number, containing 200,000 inhabitants, and conveying the Presbyterian Missionary to his destination in the new Hebrides, we find a remark that "the work undertaken (by the Presbyterian Missions) is now beginning to be blessed with fruit in the rapid increase of converts;" and further on it is written, – "this is evidently a field in which each body of Christian Mis-

sionaries may carry on its work without collision with the others, and upon this principle the operations of the Australian Board have always been conducted. May the Holy Spirit so guide and bless the work of all that the multitudes of the isles of the Melanesians may be added to the Lord." The Bishop designate of Canterbury declares that "there is nothing in her (the Canterbury Settlement) to hinder a Dissenter from presenting himself on her shores, but much to enable her so to enlarge herself as to take him if he were a true brother; or, if he were unwilling, to bear with him, or at least to tolerate him." Here we have language explicit enough: can we believe that it is only used to obscure and mistify?

Having considered its climate, religious, social, and civil advantages, and being impressed with a conviction that if the liberal political treatment which New Zealand had lately received were continued its connection with England, involving some of the best and purest associations of thought and feeling, would be as durable as the mutual interests of the two countries required, I turned my attention to the question of its affording a fair opportunity for the safe and judicious investment of capital and labour. This inquiry appeared to divide itself into two branches; the one including the freedom from taxation – a freedom which I dare say few will have any difficulty in fully appreciating, especially under a double income tax pressure, the reduction in the number of competitors, and the more economical mode of living;

the other, embracing the means which the country afforded for agricultural, pastoral, and commercial pursuits.

I had not the means of obtaining any information on the extent of the export trade of the country, nor indeed of so analysing the coasting trade as to present any statement which would lead to the formation of a trustworthy judgment. When considering the exports of a new country particular reference should be had as to whether it possesses the materials for producing an export trade. But a few short years ago the surface of the entire country was covered by dense forests, and in the possession of wandering tribes who, clearing a favourable spot, merely culled a passing harvest from the almost spontaneous productiveness of the upper soil, exacting from the earth only a few pigments to beautify, or rather disfigure, the body, and flax with which to envelope it; making war upon, and devouring, his fellow man, birds, and the generally rejected class of inferior animals and reptiles; while of the sea was lazily demanded those fish which would yield themselves the most ready prey. With the introduction of Christianity, in 1814, attention was directed to the capabilities of the country, and it was found that its forests contained some of the finest timber for shipping purposes; that the direction and nature of its hills gave the promise of mineral riches; that the land was well covered by alluvial deposits, decayed vegetation, and the resultants of volcanic action, thus presenting an alluring picture of agricultural abundance; that the lux-

uriant grasses and genial climate spoke intelligibly of sheep and cattle; while the sea, indignant at its resources being confined to a few edible fish, spouted forth volumes in praise of the commercial value of the oil and whalebone of which its very bays were full.

Time will most fully develope the latent powers of the country, and I will not, therefore, say anything of its wines, oil, iron ore, and other promised articles of export. The attention of the settler should be mainly attracted towards sheep, cattle, corn, and wood; and to them he will do well to confine it. Of these, the cultivation of the land and of live stock are the settler's sheet anchors.

A few words on each in its order. The capitalist, the professional man, the man engaged in commerce, each and all think that they are not in the road to independence unless they can speak of their cattle or sheep, their carcase or their wool. There are two methods of working capital in this line; the one, by personally superintending its employment; the other, by devolving that superintendence on another. In the first of these you are isolated from the world; your companions by day are cattle and sheep; your associates by night your pipe and pillow. Occasionally a friend may drop in on passing, or to solicit your assistance in the marking season; you may receive him for a similar purpose, or run into a distant town to settle about your wool, to sell your cattle, or to purchase the few necessaries of a bush life; but temper it as you may be able, it is undeniably a solitary

life; still, if the voyage be somewhat tedious, it must never be forgotten that the harbour once reached is snug and secure, In the second method much caution is requisite to avoid revelling in the possession of sheep which do not exist, and of wool which has not grown. The system which is usually followed is to give one third of the increase of the sheep and one half of the wool to another person for his superintendence: but by some evil, perhaps inherent in it, or in human nature, your two thirds of the one have a strange tendency to premature decay, decline to increase in number, and present too powerful an attraction to the native dog, and your one half of the other is found only in the workings of a brain which has gone "wool gathering." If the capital be in cattle by a melancholy fatality they have taken to the bush and are not; in this mode of investment so much is given per head to the person in charge. I do not say that this method of non-realizing an income is usually the case; but instances of cattle and sheep appearing only on paper are not unknown, and therefore the intending purchaser will do well to receive the stock before he parts with his cash and to become personally acquainted with his flocks and herds. The profits on sheep farming are often represented as so great that the realizer is overwhelmed with anxiety as to their disposal, and figured statements arithmetically demonstrate that of all occupations in which a person can be engaged, sheep will undoubtedly produce the largest and most valuable nuggets. I have read that money thus invested doubles

itself every third year; that £15,000 would become in ten years £421,600, averaging at simple interest over this period £2,911 per cent per annum; that £1,100 employed in the purchase of 1000 ewes and the formation of a station yielded £3,273 from the sale of increase besides a healthy flock of 12,000 ewes and 8000 wethers remaining on the runs. Minutely analyzing some, of these my faith was much shaken by finding that some the data were based upon the supposition of the lamb ewes yielding produce within the first year. I further found that in ten years no decrease was allowed for age or accidents. I annex in the appendix (d) a table prepared with considerable attention, and which has been looked over with approval by some gentlemen engaged in sheep farming; the result places the profits below the least favourable of the above.

Sheep may be either imported from Sydney or purchased in New Zealand; in the former case the purchase money should be paid on those only which are alive from four to six days after arrival; an agreement to that effect being previously entered into. They have been purchased under these circumstances at 12s a head. If imported before the 1st of May, they should be shorn and not in lamb; if in winter, they should he unshorn. If the sheep he purchased in the colony, it is as well to ascertain that the wool has hitherto brought a good market price as the transit to a shipping port and other incidental charges are the same whether the wool be good or bad; the purchase money would, of course, as in Sidney,

be deposited with a third person until the sheep are delivered and approved of; the price varies from 20s to 25s a head. In selecting sheep, much depends upon the purpose for which you breed; if for wool and carcase combined, some have recommended the fine Merino, which, moreover, is said to be the best suited to the climate; while others speak highly of the improved Leicester and Teeswater. The characteristics of the pure Merino have been thus described: – they should be well woolled with a heavy fleece; springy, fine, close, long, and wavy fibre; without any inferiority in the breech and belly wool, and an absence of hairs; the face should be of a silky or satin colour, with a well woolled head and legs, at least in the upper part; the head should be fine; the eyes full and expressive; the chest deep and wide; body deep, well ribbed, level on the back and not too long; thigh rather long; bone fine and flat; skin under the thigh and brisket clear and bright. The ram should be polled or with spiral horns.

The best time for lambing appears to be not yet decided on: some recommend September and October, by which arrangement the lambs escape the damp and cold of winter; the grass is, however, scarce at this time. Others recommend May and June, by which the ewes are better fed while suckling, and the lambs themselves are finer; but they are not infrequently exposed to the fatal effects of the rainy south east gales. The usual shearing time is in December, and the average clip from 3 1/2 to 4 lbs.

The following gleaned memoranda on the subject of pasture may not be useless: – abundance of fine water; agreeable and temperate climate; shelter from wind and weather; good and extensive walks, bold and hilly, or, if low, stony and dry; – vicinity to a good shipping port. If wool be the chief object, select a sandstone soil; if carcase, a volcanic or limestone.

There should not be less than three acres to a sheep; or, if the pasture be improved, three or four sheep may be allowed to the acre. Such improvement may be made by clearing the ground, harrowing it well, and sowing grass seed mixed with 2 lbs. of cole or native cabbage seed in autumn. Tares also answer well. Now that the land has been handed over to the local legislature great changes will take place in the pasturage licenses, and in the terms on which land may be purchased. At present the following may be regarded as the regulations in a condensed form. A license is granted for 14 years; the run to be stocked, and to be regarded as abandoned if remaining unstocked beyond six months. A run is not obtainable for more than 25,000 sheep, or one sixth the number of great cattle.

For any number of sheep up to 500 a run will be granted for increase up to 5000.

For every additional 100 between 500 & 1000 for 500 additional sheep [For every additional 100 between] 1000 3000 [for] 400 [additional sheep] [For every additional 100 between] 3000 5000 [for] 200 [additional sheep] [For every additional 100 between] 5000 10,000 [for] 100 [additional sheep]

The least annual license fee, that is for 500 sheep, is

£5, and £1 additional is charged for every 1000 sheep above 5000, or proportionate number of cattle. There are equitable arrangements for the purchase or sale of homesteads built on such runs if not exceeding 80 acres.

Cattle farming is also considered a lucrative occupation and moreover a healthy one. I have not the means of submitting any data as to the extent of its profits, but I have generally heard that capital so invested will realize at least 20 per cent. If united to a dairy, and the farm be eligibly situated as regards a market, good butter and cheese, equal in many parts of New Zealand to the best in the world, will fetch 12d. to 14d. the pound in the local market. The butcher will give about £8 to £10 for the full grown ox, and, hereafter, boiling down establishments will create a trade in tallow and hides.

A remark having been made, by one of the earliest and most scientific writers on New Zealand, that the chief attention of the settlers must, for the present, be devoted to agricultural pursuits, it became a main object of inquiry to ascertain whether there were any farmers who had reaped a golden harvest. Opinions were found to be much divided as to the probability of agriculture succeeding; but I could not discover any individual, being an employer of labour, who had succeeded in realizing even a competency, though I had heard of more than one who had lost not a little in thus employing their capital. This result may have arisen from an unwarrantable confidence in their own farming capacity, or from lo-

cal circumstances, as the initial expense in clearing the land, which the formation of roads, extension of commerce, and increase of population may remove. On the other hand, I have invariably found the sober, industrious labourer, working his own small capital, the offspring of his sinews since he landed, doing not only well, but far beyond what he could have dreamed of at home. The neighbouring town offered a ready market for his limited produce, and year by year he added something to his original stock, while he was gradually transforming himself from the common labourer to the more substantial yeoman.

Land uncleared and remote from a town may be had at a price considerably less than the rental of an equal quantity in England; indeed, I might have purchased 8 acres of splendid land for what I am paying for the lease of 1 acre; but then the former are remote from, while the latter are contiguous to, a village. Land similarly circumstanced in New Zealand will fetch from £10 to £60. Native labour can be had at two shillings the day, and European, when available, at four shillings. Under these circumstances it would appear that the farmer had a fair field so that he should certainly supply his adopted home cheaper than any other country could import into it; but I question whether he can at present supply New South Wales cheaper than it can be supplied from Van Dieman's Land. Wheat can be delivered to the exporter at 5s. the bushel, thus returning a fair remuneration to the farmer, and the Sydney market price averages from 7s. to 8s.

Potatoes yield a heavy crop and of excellent quality. Whatever may be the use to which the land is now applied, I am impressed with the conviction, from considering the small amount readily available for cattle, sheep, and agriculture, that the English system of farming must be adopted, and that before the surface soil be absorbed.

The agricultural land of New Zealand is generally divided into four classes, grass, fern, forest, and scoria. The grass land may generally be regarded as rich, though a good authority, Dr. Dieffenbach, asserts of the northern island that its plains, except at the outlets or on the banks of rivers, are a table land of stiff clay, scarcely workable, deposited at the original upheaving of the land: an opinion, however, if applied to the whole country, scarcely supported by the reported richness of the extensive plains in the middle island. Generally speaking, if grass land requires a less expenditure in clearing, it requires more in fencing.

Fern land is regarded as an exhauster and sourer of the land; when the fern is high the land is considered rich. In preparing fern land the roots should be well exposed, and the land be allowed to lie fallow for a couple of years. Two pounds per acre will meet the expense of such clearing.

Forest land is chiefly confined to mountainous districts. It is, however, very generally asserted and believed that at some remote period the whole country was densely covered with gigantic trees, some traces of which I saw upon the summits of the higher ranges and distant from

any existing forests. Most certainly the remaining forests in the middle island are gradually becoming more and more contracted, for, super-added to the devastating effects of periodical fires when the bush is burned, the brawny arm of the woodsman is levelling many a giant. This kind of land is rich, but the existence of the black birch (Batula nigra), in certain localities, indicates its poverty.

Forest, or, as it is generally called, bush land may be cleared at £4 an acre. Sometimes an arrangement is entered into with the natives to clear and rough fence such land, giving them as a remuneration the privilege to work it for the two years required to effect the clearing; but the policy of such a proceeding is very doubtful, as the soil is easily exhausted.

The Scoriae land is principally in the neighbourhood of Auckland, and is considered rich, but very expensive to clear.

LAND.

It would require a man of no ordinary temerity to dive into the depths of the unfathomable questions connected with the most desirable price at which land should be offered to the public. I have no intention, and still less desire, to undertake this perilous excursion; it would be a water cure with a vengeance; still a few remarks may not be out of place.

It would be no easy matter to trace the market value of all the land which has been sold in New Zealand since

the first European admired the productiveness of the soil. The vagaries of the compass in its variations are as nothing compared with the oscillations to which the price of the land has been subject. A few nails, clay pipes, or sticks of tobacco, has purchased what, if situated even in the least desirable part of England, would be termed a snug estate. The blocks disposed of have varied from an acre, a rich and luscious morsel, to millions of acres, stretching over hill and dale, embracing volcanoes (extinct and active), and capable of supporting an entire nation. At one time every wayfaring man who duly and relatively appreciated a pound of tobacco and a ring fence enclosure of 1000 acres, purchased direct from the aborigines on deeds, strictly legal, but so fearfully technical that the natives despaired of ever arriving at their meaning; at another time, Government became the only medium through which land could be obtained; again it was thrown open to the public, on the Government receiving a fee, varying from one penny to ten shillings the acre; and afterwards this was revoked and an association was established for the purchase: while now, the association being defunct, the Government have reassumed their sole preemptive right. In Auckland, town land at one time fetched a price almost beyond belief. The New Plymouth Company offered rural land, purchased by themselves, for about 30s. the acre; the New Zealand Company for the same price; the Otago and Canterbury Associations, with certain specified advantages attached, for £2 and £3 per acre respectively. The original specula-

tors, resident or absentee, having procured the dainty pieces in close proximity to markets, offer land at from £10 to £60 or £70 an acre; while scrip compensation land may be had, with power of selection, at 10s. the acre, and of this there is not less than 180,000 acres in the market. New districts are being continually opened out and many a longing eye is cast towards the Wararapa, now in part rented from the natives, and towards the vicinity of New Plymouth, which is unoccupied. As the natives receive a good rental for their land they are indisposed to part with it; but when dissension or necessity induces them to look out for a purchaser, the policy of the present squatters, who tenaciously held their ground against the New Zealand Company's remonstrances and the Government fulminations, will be conspicuous; they will claim, what has hitherto been granted others, a favourable consideration of their long tenure. The land with a burden of £268,000 has been delivered over to the colonists, and it is extremely doubtful whether they will be disposed to regard with favour the exclusive experimental appropriations by two associations, when the land does not find a purchaser and the interest of the debt appeals strongly to their breeches pockets. It is generally believed that the local representative parliament will, sooner or later, have the disposal of the whole of the Government land, and the question of its price is becoming one of considerable interest. Speculators should be repelled, and the labourer encouraged. Enable the mechanic and the labourer to inform his

friends that he possesses as many acres as Farmer Wheatly of Broadlands, and you will have abundance of the proper kind of labour. Capital will increase, not as vegetation in tropical countries, rapidly and transiently, but as in temperate regions, slowly, healthily, and durably. It would indeed be a blessing beyond all calculation if a branch of our British oak could be transplanted to New Zealand, and there, by a vast vegetative impulse, spring into a full formed tree, fructify and spread itself over the vast solitudes; and it would rejoice many an intending colonist if the present experiments could be proved to have succeeded, or to be in a fair way of succeeding on the removal of any well ascertained impediments.

The amount of land supposed to be capable of profitable cultivation does not exceed two thirds of its whole extent, and even that should be regarded as a high valuation when it is remembered that the land is "extremely hilly and densely wooded;" or, to use the language of one who has walked over many thousand miles of the northern island, "the general features of the country are far from being pleasing, with the exception of the interior grassy plains; the country is covered either with dense forest or with fern; the greater portion of the surface is very mountainous; in this country all the hills are sharp pointed as if nothing had disturbed them since their first upheavement. The present surface may be viewed as only the back bone of a future country."

There can be no question that the intending settler will do well to avoid purchasing land until he reaches the

country; or it is just possible he may be in the predicament of the fortunate possessor of a fifty acre section in the "Happy Valley," who, after a toilsome scrambling on all fours succeeded in visiting his estate, the happiness of which consisted in its entire insulation from the cares and anxieties of life, and the possession of a murmuring brook which brawled at the stranger daring to intrude upon its domain; or, perhaps, his experience may resemble that of an aged settler, who, allured by the fascinating reports of an only son, sold his boat and fishing tackle, reached the antipodal land of hope, and searching for the Eden which had been so poetically described, ascended lofty hills merely to descend, and descended to ascend, until at length in meandering among a wondrous diversity of swamps, he was, to use his own expression, "nearly going home feet foremost."

The advantages which New Zealand possesses would, however, be of little avail were its situation such as to debar it from conveniently sharing in the commerce of the world. The following tabular statement, extracted from the "Hand Book to New Zealand," by a late Magistrate, will afford an idea of its position relatively to other countries. –

Sydney

about 1200

Aden

about 7600

Hobart Town

" 1300

Bombay

" 6300

Melbourne

" 1400

Ceylon

" 5700

Adelaide

" 1800

Madras

" 6000

Perth

" 2800

Calcutta

" 6600

Mauritius

" 5800

Singapoor

" 4300

Cape of Good Hope

" 7200

Hongkong

" 5400

Manilla

about 4800

Vancouver's Islands

about 6900

Labuan

" 4300

Panama

" 6000

Tahiti

" 3400

Lima

" 5800

Marquesas

" 3100

Valparaiso

" 5500

Sandwich Isles

" 4800

Wool, wood, tallow, hides, and flax will ever meet with a ready sale in Great Britain and be exchanged for manufactured goods, which may be disposed of in the vast congeries of islands which he for 4000 miles to the north east. These islands will give sugar, coffee, and tropical produce in payment. Its corn may hereafter, if not at present, successfully compete in the Australian market with that from other countries. India would readily receive constant supplies of horses, for the rearing of which the climate is peculiarly adapted; and it would be highly desirable, while the trade is in its infancy, to direct particular attention to the description of horse required, and information should be officially sought on these and other points from the proper quarter.

CHAPTER III.

CHAPTER III.

IT would ill become a writer on New Zealand to pass by its early history without the usual and becoming introduction, as he might perhaps give an unmerited countenance to the Maori tradition of its emergence from the briny deep when its tutelary deities were trawling in the Pacific. Columbus and his successors, who discovered the American continent between the aboriginals of which and the New Zealander there are so many points in common, might justly complain of undeserved neglect were the narrative to pass on without even a bare word of their exploits. Posterity is, by common consent, acknowledged to be just; and as these luminaries were without honour in their own country and in their own age, let us at least encircle them with glory. But, seriously speaking, I am confident the reader will not be displeased at this formal introduction, were it only as a chronological memorandum; we will therefore commence at the very beginning.

Rather more than three and a half centuries have elapsed since Christopher Columbus, under the influence of an irrepressible enthusiasm, undertook that voyage which rewarded him by the discovery of the new world. He sighted land on the 11th of October, 1492, amid the

most dispiriting circumstances, but supported by the assurance of approaching success, and on the following day, with the most fervent thanksgivings to Almighty God, he planted the cross on St, Salvador, one of the Bahama islands. Unaware that an ocean intervened between him and the Indian isles, to reach which by a westward route was the object of his expedition, he named these islands the West Indies. In less than thirteen and a half years, alternately courted, calumniated, and fettered, he died neglected on the 20th of May, 1506, after having made very considerable accessions to his original discovery. The distinction of giving his name to the new world was unjustly denied him, and awarded to Amerigo Vespucci, a companion of Alonza de Ogeda, in his voyage of 1499. Among the successors of Columbus was Vasco Nunez de Bilboa, who, on succeeding to the supreme command of a small settlement on the isthmus of Darien, longed to penetrate into the interior. Within a month from the commencement of the expedition, on reaching the summit of a lofty eminence, the noble waters of the Pacific appeared spread out before him: on his bended knees he thankfully recognized the hand which had led him to this important discovery, and, once again, was the Cross erected as a symbol of gratitude. Descending to the shore he awaited with his companions the approach of the tide, and, knee deep in its waves, with his sword in one hand and the standard of Castile in the other, he solemnly took possession of the seas and the adjacent countries in the names of Fernando and Isabel of Spain, on the 29th

of September, 1513. Envy had, however, prepared her poisoned arrows, for he, like his noble predecessor, also fell a sacrifice: he was accused of treason, tried and executed. The credit of having discovered the extensive continent of Australia, and the islands of New Zealand, is accorded to Abel Jansen Tasman. He sighted the latter on the 13th September, 1642, while engaged in an exploring expedition from Batavia, one of the Dutch East India Settlements. It was not, however, till after the 6th of October, 1769, when New Zealand was rediscovered by our gallant countryman Captain Cook, that the discovery assumed any practical importance. By a strange coincidence the northern island was sighted on the I2th of December of the same year by a French exploring expedition, under the command of M. de Surville; and subsequently by M. Marion de Fresne, on the the 24th of March, 1792, when, after living amicably with the natives for some months, he was, with a boat's crew, from some unknown cause, murdered and eaten. Early in the commencement of the following year Captain Cook revisited New Zealand in the "Resolution," accompanied by Captain Furneaux in the "Adventure," and while the latter was in Queen Charlotte's Sound a boat's crew unfortunately fell a sacrifice to these merciless cannibals. This massacre was acknowledged in one of Captain Cook's following voyages, and ascribed to causes arising out of some individual misunderstanding. From this time New Zealand became the resort of many whaling vessels employed in the South Seas; and, occa-

sionally, ships resorted thither for a supply of wood; while the natives, under the influence of a spirit of curiosity, engaged as seamen to the adjoining continent of Australia and to England, chiefs even serving as common sailors, The destruction of the Boyd of 500 tons, in 1808, which had put in for wood, and the massacre of the crew and passengers, with four exceptions, owing to the ill treatment of a chief engaged as a seaman, interrupted the intercourse for some time.

It was shortly resumed under happier auspices. We now arrive at that interesting period in which the country begins to assume an aspect of considerable importance arising out of its more intimate connection with European states. The formal assumption of the land by Captain Cook, in the name and on the behalf of the king, can only be regarded as securing its inhabitants from coercion by any foreign power; for, being already inhabited, and under a rude cultivation, no sovereignty could be claimed on the plea of discovery.

From its vicinity to New South Wales, and from the convenience afforded to those engaged in whale fisheries, it became, in course of time, the resort of escaped convicts, runaway sailors, and others. In 1814 Christianity was introduced into the Bay of Islands by the Rev. S. Marsden, who was succeeded by other Church missionaries, and some years afterward by the Wesleyans. The number of strangers increased, and it became a matter of some urgency that the lawless should be restrained. At an early period it had been considered necessary

to act upon the right supposed to result from discovery, for, in 1787, Captain Phillips is nominated Captain General of New South Wales and New Zealand; and, afterwards, to appoint a Magistrate to apprehend offenders and forward them to the seat of Government, for, in 1819, we find Governor Macquarrie appointing a Justice of the Peace, who actually exercised the power with which he was invested. An Act of Parliament, in 1823, nullified the sovereignty assumed by the first of these appointments.

In 1833, the settlers and missionaries, supported by many of the chiefs of the northern island, solicited the protection of the British Crown; in consequence of which Mr. Bushby was sent as Resident; and, in the following year, a desire having been manifested by the native chieftains for a national flag, one of three submitted to them was selected, and with due ceremony was saluted with 21 guns by Her Majesty's ship Alligator, in token of promised protection, and as "a recognition of the independence of the chiefs." The salute did honour at once to its birth and burial, for after one transient flutter alongside the flag which has "braved a thousand years the battle and the breeze," it disappeared, and has never since been heard of. These proceedings were approved of by the Home Government, as signified in Lord Aberdeen's letter of the 21st of December, 1834.

More urgent solicitations, under the supposed influence of the missionaries, were made by 35 chiefs on the 28th of October, 1835, by which His Majesty was re-

quested to guarantee the country "against all attempts upon its independence," and which resulted in the appointment of Captain Hobson as Consul. With increasing difficulties, arising principally from an increasing European population, it became necessary to enter into a closer political connection with the chiefs. Animated by the purest motives, and with an earnest desire to protect the natives, and avert the fearful results of a disorganized state of society, the British Government, in 1839, enjoined their Consul to obtain, if possible, the surrender of the sovereignty of the whole, or of a part, of the islands, disclaiming the power to seize the country or to govern the inhabitants "without their free and intelligent consent." Captain Hobson was to be appointed Lieutenant Governor of the territory acquired by such a treaty. Subsequently the instructions above recited, and the disclaimers put forth, were confined in their application to the northern island, where the great majority of the population resided, and with whom only any political intercourse had taken place. The sovereignty of the middle island was assumed from the sparseness of its population on the grounds of discovery. To confine at the same time the sale of land within reasonable bounds, the Crown asserted its sole right of extinguishing the native title; and while it promised to acknowledge all purchases hitherto effected on equitable terms, it annulled all made without its sanction.

In obedience to the above recited instructions, Captain Hobson called a meeting of the chiefs on the 5th Febru-

ary at which he explained the articles of the treaty of Waitangi. By the first of these an absolute cession was made to the Queen, without reservation, by the confederate and independent chiefs, as "sole Sovereign," of all lands belonging to them: by the second, these lands were restored to the chiefs, and the possession of them guaranteed, a preemptive title being given to the Crown of any lands which the chiefs might wish to alienate: and by the third, protection and the rights and privileges of British subjects were accorded. This treaty bears date January 6th, 1840. After due deliberation it was ratified on the following day by 46 of the leading chiefs of the upper part of the northern island, in the presence of 500 of inferior note; and subsequently, on the 11th of February, 400 or 500 chiefs at Hokianga on the west coast appended their signatures, with only two dissentients several of whose subordinate chiefs acquiesced. Parties were sent to complete the ratification in other districts, and strange to say, also, in the middle and southern island, when the Governor, alarmed at the establishment of a separate Government by the lately arrived colonists at Port Nicholson in supposed ignorance of any existing authority, the election of a Council, of which Colonel Wakefield, the agent of the New Zealand Company which had been organized in 1839, was President, the establishment of laws, and more particularly by an intention of the French Government to form a penal settlement at Akarooa in the middle island, anticipated the acceptance of the treaty by proclaiming the sove-

reignty over the islands generally on the 21st of May, 1840. The cession of the northern island was subsequently, to a somewhat doubtful extent, completed; that of the middle island was similarly obtained, and proclaimed on the 1st of June; and the sovereignty of the southern, or Stewart's Island, was assumed in the absence of natives on the ground of discovery, and proclaimed on the 5th of the same month.

Actuated by the laudable desire of preserving the land from falling into the hands of speculators, Government decided that it would recognize purchases by an individual, equitably effected, to the extent of 2560 acres, or four square miles only, and that all in excess of that should, by virtue of the Crown's sole title to grant land, become a Government demesne. This resolution was not adopted an hour too early, for already had a Sydney merchant obtained 20 millions of acres on an annual rental of £200. The purchases effected by the New Zealand Company were considered, according to Mr. Commissioner Spain, somewhat doubtful, including lands which the natives are never disposed to sell and the sale of which they disputed, such as villages, spots under cultivation, and burial grounds; and it was moreover alleged that the agreements were expressed in language not easily defined, in which they were said to differ from purchases by private individuals, the validity of which were generally acknowledged by the natives: but in receiving this statement, due allowance must be made for the active antagonism which existed between the Governor,

said be under missionary influence opposed to colonization, and the Company. A successful attempt was made, as appears from Colonel Wakefield's letter of the 11th September, 1841, to the Secretary of the Company, to obtain from the Governor a favourable view against European claimants of the titles of all lands, the sale of which had already been effected by it, even though the extinguishment of the native title should not be conceded. The general claim of the New Zealand Company amounted to no less a sum than 20 millions of acres, founded on purchases made from independent chiefs; but failing in the attempt to obtain a recognition of this claim, it was relinquished, and the Company expressed its willingness to receive four acres for every pound sterling expended by it, viz. 540,000 acres at once, with a conditional ultimate award of 400,000 more. Government acceded to this proposal in so far as the Company was assured of a Crown grant of four acres for each pound of verified expenditure, to be selected from land claimed before the treaty of Waitangi, the claim, of course, to be substantiated before Commissioners appointed to adjudicate all disputed titles. This arrangement was thankfully accepted. In this promised grant, according to Lord Stanley, the "assumed validity of the Company's claims" was the basis on which the whole case rested. In the mean time emigrants continued to arrive, and in a prospectus issued by the Company a settlement was projected by them in "the best remaining site in New Zealand." In a letter from Lord John Rus-

sel to Captain Hobson, dated the 22nd of April, 1841, the foregoing agreement was, in some measure, extended, and permission was given to the Company to select land, under the sanction of the Governor, beyond the former prescribed limits. The site chosen for the projected settlement, after some futile attempts to locate near Canterbury, was Nelson in Blind Bay, and the emigrants, who had purchased of the Company, arrived in September, 1841. To this selection Government opposed itself; the Agent directed the survey of Massacre Bay to the west, and of the Wairau plains to the east. In this latter survey the resident Christian natives offered opposition, but ineffectually. Meantime armed heathen natives, under Rauperaha and Ranghiatea, arrived from the opposite coast of Cook's Straits, and urged the suspension of the survey until the claim had been investigated by the Land Commissioner. This authority was disallowed by the Agent of the Company, who ordered the continuance of the survey, doubtless convinced of the justness of his proceedings, and urged to a speedy decision by the anxious emigrants. An attempt was made, on duly sworn informations before the magistrate, to seize the native chiefs, which unfortunately terminated in the death of the Agent and many others.

The illness from which Captain Hobson was suffering while negotiating the treaty of Waitangi terminated fatally in 1842: he was temporarily succeeded, until 1843, by the Colonial Secretary, Lieut. Shortland, who delivered over the Government to Captain Fitzroy, by whom it

was held until his recall in 1845, when Captain Grey, the present Governor, succeeded to the vacancy.

In 1843 a dispute arose in the north between the Government and the natives respecting some land originally purchased by a Mr. Fairburn. The claim of that gentleman was only in part granted, and the Crown allowed a Mr. Terry to occupy the remainder. The natives argued that if the land was not Mr. Fairburn's, it was their's; the matter however was compromised for the time, but eventually all lands similarly circumstanced were assumed by Government. Disputes occurred at the same time at Port Nicholson, and the right of the natives to sell land to private parties on the purchaser paying 10s per acre was conceded by Governor Fitzroy; this proved unsatisfactory. Matters were finally brought to a crisis at the Bay of Islands, upon some dissension between the settlers and natives, when John Heki, a descendant of the ruthless E'Hongi, severed the gordian knot by cutting down the flag staff. Unity was shortly restored, after the arrival of some troops from Sydney, by the withdrawal of custom house restrictions, one of the most galling causes of misunderstanding; and by a proclamation, dated October 10th, 1844, a penny was fixed as the payment to be made to Government for each acre purchased, thus virtually destroying another cause of irritation. These conflicting arrangements paralysed the operations of the New Zealand Company, while the squatting system materially interfered with its either buying or selling land.

On the recall of the Governor who had given dissatisfaction, or, what is worse in a Governor, had not succeeded in settling the country, the reins of administration were handed over to Captain Grey, who, uniting firmness with conciliation, succeeded, after some active measures, in pacifying the natives, reducing the land question into a more manageable shape, and assumed in his own person a power which should never have been dissociated from his office, the protectorate of the aboriginals. In 1847, two influential Chiefs on the southern coast of the northern Island, Te Rauperaha and Ranghiatea, after an interchange of martial salutes between them and the Government forces, received an adjusting payment for the grounds on both sides of Cook's Straits. The cooperation of the Company being deemed highly desirable by the Government, the preemptive right to purchase lands in the south was granted for three years in its favour, on condition of the Company giving up all claim to land about Auckland, and agreeing to receive the amount of its award elsewhere. To aid the Company in its operations and to enable it to meet its liabilities to settlers and others, Government advanced to the Company in 1846 a loan of £100,000, and subsequently an additional loan of £136,000. In case of the Company's failing in its operations Government agreed to assume its liabilities and to receive its assets, that is, its lands, valuing them at 5s an acre, with interest at 3 1/2 per cent, both principal and interest payable out of the proceeds of future land sales, after the necessary expen-

ses for surveys and emigration had been deducted. The amount thus guaranteed was £268,371 for 1,073,483 acres. The wisdom of this arrangement has been justly questioned, the more so as it involved the remission of the original loan. Lord John Russell and Lord Stanley had, it appears, made the claim for land contingent on verified expenditure and substantiated purchase; but Lord Grey assumes these points as decided, and acts at once upon the decision. It has been said that the amount actually possessed and paid for by the Company, at the rate of 20s to 30s per acre including emigration expenditure, was 24,491 1/2 acres.

In July, 1850, the New Zealand Company closed its career by the surrender of its charter; and by the New Zealand Government Act of the 30th June, 1852, the sum of £268,371 with interest at 3 1/2 per cent is made payable to the Company out of the proceeds of the sale of the Crown demesne lands, one fourth of the proceeds of each sale to be paid to liquidate the debt. The sale of land is by the same act yielded to the local legislature subject to the above payment, and for the present at least, to those Acts of Parliament which regulate the price.

Various opinions, diametrically opposed to each other have been entertained of the New Zealand Company, the Missionaries, and the Government. After an impartial examination of the few documents to which I have had access, I infer that the exertions of the Company have been very beneficially exerted in behalf of the coun-

try. Its proceedings at the settlement of Wellington appear to have been dictated by the considerations which influence reasonable men in such conjunctures, and acted as a healthy stimulus to the too lethargic operations of the Government. The nonfulfilment of the promises made to the Nelson settlers, which was the cause of so much suffering, arose from the active opposition of Government which interfered with the fair working of its scheme, and which precluded its obtaining possession of its supposed rightful property, an opposition which a subsequent Home Government appeared to think unjust, as evidenced by the remission of the loan of £236,000. It is impossible to visit the chief seat of the Company's operations without believing that its influence was salutary. From its organization in 1839 to its temporary suspension, from collisions with Government in 1843, it was the means of importing 9000 individuals, and since its resuscitation 3000 additional, while the Government have only introduced 1200 including pensioners; it originated the appropriation of a tithe as a native reserve; it countenanced and supported the investigations of scientific men: it made excellent roads and bridges; and, though exposed to the assertion of having only paid at the rate of 1/2 d per acre for the 20 millions it claimed, the mountainous character of the land purchased should be considered before judgment pronounces a censure. During the Shortland interregnum, the amount paid was only 3d the acre, and in the last purchase made by the Government in 1851, when the knowledge of the value

of land had begun to dawn on the Maori mind, only 2 1/2 d is given, which was considered so liberal a rate, that in the enthusiasm of gratitude a block 20 miles by 2 is freely thrown into the bargain. The Company on closing its operations had liabilities to the amount of £300,000 to meet which the sale of its land at 5s an acre would produce £268,000.

The Missionaries, or rather some few of those formerly in connection with the Church of England, for the Wesleyans were not allowed to possess land, have drawn down upon themselves the severest reprehensions. I will merely submit a few considerations and leave the reader to form his own conclusions. It will be remembered that in 1814 the Missionaries were the first to throw themselves into the country at the imminent hazard of their lives, locating themselves in the Bay of Islands, the most northern and populous portion of New Zealand. The lowest registered claim made by any Missionary for land purchased from the natives shows that the land was obtained at the rate of 2d the acre: the highest at 5 shillings: and the average at 8 pence. Many claims were preferred even to whole districts, but were not regularly submitted to investigation. One authority arguing on Parliamentary returns fixes the average at 3 1/2 shillings the acre, and, that the claims, when reduced one half by the Commissioner, were at the rate of 243 acres for each child of a Missionary, while the Chaplains of New South Wales were gratuitously presented by Government with 1600 acres per child.

Though the lands thus purchased have been represented by the natives as exhausted, still it must be remembered they are situated in the finest part of the Island. Great fault has also been found with the Missionaries for formerly engaging in trade, and for selling Testaments at an exorbitant price; this may or may not be true, perhaps, in the former case the edge of censure might be blunted by the reflection that Testaments are not the only articles that have been thus sold, and the missionaries not the only dealers; that the price received was probably paid into the Bible Society's treasury, and that the natives, paying liberally, were more likely to value the article purchased, many undesirable results often occurring from no value being attached by the giver to such presents. All this refers to the past, and it may reasonably be asked, then why revert to it? because the tale is repeated until it almost becomes an accepted truth, and sheds its baneful influence on the present. Another complaint not infrequently urged against them originates from an impression that they intrude their opinions on civil and political matters; they are represented as exerting their influence to prevent the sale of land. It is an unfortunate peculiarity of their anomalous position that, owing to the decadence of chieftainship and of priestly power, they have become endued with many of the offices which formerly appertained to others, and thus are consulted on all questions connected with the temporal as well as the spiritual interests of their flocks. Silent under such circumstances they dare not

be; they doubtless advise conscientiously, and while vindicating our own freedom of opinion it would be more than unreasonable to debar them from the unfettered exercise of their judgments. For my part I would encourage the disposal of the native's lands, having first secured an ample provision of the best description for the existing race, obtaining the value usually affixed by Government, and endeavouring so to invest the capital as to ensure its increase. I believe that the resuscitation of the Maori, if practicable, mainly depends upon mental and physical exertion, and that few things would more materially retard this regeneration and be more opposed to the true interests of the Colony generally than a coloured race of landholders receiving the rental of districts which they are too indolent to cultivate; such a state of things would, moreover, prevent that aggregation and permanence of settlement which is essential to the efficacy of other means. When drawing a conclusion from the consideration of these points, let us also remember that the first missionary landed in 1814, the first convert was made in 1825, that in 1838 the cry for religious instruction became general, and that now more than one half the population is Christian, of whom a large proportion can read, cannibalism and internal wars have ceased, and that thousands of acres are under cultivation and providing occupation for numerous mills. After allowing the stimulus of self interest its due share of credit, we must thankfully acknowledge that the changed aspect of affairs has been chiefly effected by the self-denying

efforts of the missionaries, of all denominations, who have devoted themselves to the Christian cause.

Until lately the Government has been in the position of a Maori lass, whose charms have attracted more than one suitor, and who is subjected to the dislocating operation termed epunurua, in which the strongest puller gains the day. It was difficult amidst so many conflicting interests to keep the via media. Foreign interference precipitated a decision, a powerfully organized Company were actually in treaty with the natives for the purchase of land; many a voracious land shark who had swallowed, or was about to swallow, some millions of acres purchased at scarcely a nominal value, stood at bay; the missionaries, despairing of keeping the country solely under their civil, political, and religious tuition, arranged themselves on the side of the aborigines, with a view to protect them; the natives themselves, bewildered at the effect produced by treaties with the Government and private individuals into which they had ignorantly entered, remonstrated; while the settlers, tormented with custom dues which they imagined could not stand a southern clime, harrassed by the restrictions on the purchase of land, and amazed at the devious course of the Government, complained and agitated: all these combined influences resulted in a course directed by the intensity of the last impulse. Custom dues were imposed and withdrawn; the Crown fee on lands fixed, altered, removed; squatting discouraged, threatened, and virtually sanctioned; the natives outraged, pacified, and succumbed to.

However, these oscillations might have been overlooked had not the tacit permission of squatting paralyzed the operations of the New Zealand Company, who were unable to sell any land, or even to buy, while whole districts were obtainable at a nominal rent. There was a superabundance of good intention, but a deficiency of decision, arising, perhaps in a great measure, from the complicated state of things. The reins have lately been handled with more judgment, or, at least, with more success: valuable territory is being constantly obtained at reasonable rates; the natives are encouraged and assisted; in fact, affairs are progressing satisfactorily, even though many grievances exist; but life without a grievance would be intolerable. The reins have once more changed hands; the people are to drive themselves, and most sincerely do I wish them success. Difficult questions require attention, and no small amount of good common sense and good temper will be in demand.

CHAPTER IV.

CHAPTER IV.

AS in introducing the subject of the discovery of New Zealand and its subsequent history it was deemed to be only in accordance with the demands of justice that we should yield a passing recognition of the claims of the early voyagers, so the reader's indulgence is here solicited to this elementary introduction to the whereabouts of our chosen isle. It is earnestly to be hoped that the geologist, while examining these deposits, may not be inspired with a wish to ply his hammer on the author's head, nor the botanist, while wandering among the weeds which are here offered as the flora of the country, be inclined to prune too fiercely and without discrimination. An attempt has been made to present only what is valuable, but the specimens may be so ill selected, and the bouquet so ill arranged, as to afford little information, and less interest and pleasure; and therefore it will be judicious to propitiate the reader beforehand, in order that a liberal supply of patience and forbearance may be forthcoming, if needed.

The numerous islands which lie scattered over the Pacific Ocean have been divided, by continental geographers, into Western, Central, and Eastern Oceania. Western Oceania comprises Sumatra, the Philippines,

and other islands north of Australia; Central Oceania embraces Australia, New Guinea, New Zealand, and the adjacent islands; and Eastern Oceania, usually called Polynesia, comprehends all the remaining islands from the south of Japan and the east of the Philippines to the island of Salu.

New Zealand is comprised within 34.25 and 47.20 south latitude, and 166 and 178.35 east longitude. It is divided into three islands: the northern, or New Ulster; the middle, or New Munster; and the southern, or New Leinster: a division, perhaps, suggested out of compliment to St. Patrick, as New Zealand, like Erin, was once covered with dense forests and like it also is devoid of any noxious reptiles. The length of the three islands, following a central line, is about 1100 miles, and the average breadth under 100: they are separated by straits of no great average width. The northern island has an area of 54,100 square miles, the middle island of 44,500, and the southern island of 900; forming, in the whole, an area of 99,500 square miles, or 63,680,000 acres. The area, by some authorities, is considered to be 122,582 square miles, or 78,452,480 acres; the difference being caused by nearly doubling the areas of the middle and southern island and deducting one ninth from that of the northern. The area of Great Britain and Ireland is about 120,000 square miles, or 76,800,000 acres.

On the west is the Australian continent within 1150 miles, and Van Dieman's Land within 900 miles; on the

east the nearest part of the south American coast, in the neighbourhood of Valparaiso, is 6000 miles distant, and Panama 6700; on the north are the numerous islands of the Northern Pacific Ocean; and on the south a few insignificant islands which lie scattered on the face of the waters.

The northern island is separated from the middle by Cook's Straits, which run in a direction from south-east to north-west, being widest at the latter extremity opposite Capes Egmont and Farewell, where it opens out to about 80 miles; while at the south-eastern entrance it does not exceed from 15 to 20 miles; its length may be about 100 miles. During the spring tides the current runs from the south-east at the rate of five knots the hour. The middle and southern islands are separated from each other by Foveaux's Straits, about 40 miles in length, and of an average width of 14 miles.

The principal capes in the northern island are, North Cape, Cape Colville, East Cape, Capes Palliser, Terawiti, and Egmont; in the middle island, Capes Farewell and Campbell, West Cape, and Cape Foulwind; in the southern island, South Cape.

There are numerous small islands scattered all along the eastern coast, and in Cook's and Foveaux's Straits.

On the northern coast of the northern island are the following bays: Sandy and Doubtless Bays, and Wangarooa Harbour; on the eastern coast, the Bay of Islands, Gulf of Hauraki, Bay of Plenty, and Hawke's Bay; on the southern coast, Palliser Bay and Port Nicholson;

and on the western coast, Porirua, Kawaia, Wangarooa, Waikato, Manakooa, Kaipara, and Hukianga harbours. On the northern coast of the middle island are, Massacre, Blind, and Admiralty Bays, Queen Charlotte's Sound, and Cloudy Bay; on the eastern shore, Pegasus Bay, Port Cooper or Victoria, Akaroa Harbour, and Port Chalmers, on the southern coast, Bluff Harbour; and on the Western Coast, Chalky and Dusky Bays. In the southern island are, Port William, Adventure and Sutton Ports.

As the harbours and rivers are more particularly described in the memoranda on the different settlements, it will be sufficient in this place to give them but a passing notice.

The rivers, generally speaking, are afflicted with a bar at the mouth, which presents, in the infancy of the colony, an insuperable impediment to anything like extensive commercial transactions. In the south, the Molyneaux, from this cause, becomes comparatively useless; the rivers in the Canterbury settlement, with perhaps one exception, have been described by a competent judge as rather a hindrance than a benefit; the noble Whanganui opening into Cook's Straits is admirably situated, but available for vessels of only 50 tons, and that at high water; the Manuwatu, the Thames, and the Waikato are also fine rivers, but of limited utility. In the southern extremity of the middle island, and adjacent to the finest land in the country, are rivers of considerable magnitude, the merits of which are but little known at present.

If nature has dealt thus niggardly with the rivers of New Zealand, she has been more bounteous with its harbours; though, unfortunately, the finest (and there are some which might vie with the best in the world,) are, with one or two exceptions, so placed as to present considerable obstacles to their free use.

Fresh water, wood, and anchorage, are to be had in abundance, but harbours enjoying these advantages are generally mountain-locked. This rocky barrier demands a toll that commerce cannot at present bear; genius, enterprize, and capital, may however do much to remove the mountains and de-bar the rivers. Let the wheat, wool, wood, and other products be available, and the enterprize of the exporter will find a Hobbs to unlock nature's patents.

The entire western coast, from the neighbourhood of Auckland southerly, is as inhospitable as the desert of Africa. A hard pressed vessel, if to the northward, could drive into Cook's Straits and find a welcome; but otherwise, it must give the shore a wide berth, unless desirous of an eternal anchorage.

The northern and middle island differ considerably in their general conformation. The former, consisting of several parallel ranges of hills with rivers flowing through the intervening vallies (running generally north and south); the latter has fewer ranges, but they are never continuous and probably higher; they keep close to the western coast, throwing out spurs which terminate in the ocean by bold headlands, while they slope

gradually toward the east, forming wide-spread plains, generally of a rugged character. In latitude 42, or rather to the southward of the Wairau plains, a gigantic range is thrown off eastward towards the sea, from which the snow-capped Kaikora. 9300 feet in height, stands boldly forward, erecting a barrier between the settlements of Nelson and Canterbury. The sight of these fine central ranges of snow-capped mountains, when viewed from the distance of a few miles out at sea at the rising or setting of the sun, is singularly beautiful. Though the general character of the hills of the northern island is as above described, some parts of the country exhibit a deviation from this regularity. The most elevated portions appear to be about the centre of the island. Tongariro, one of the loftiest mountains, is situated about 12 miles from Lake Taupo, and 70 from Mount Egmont, from which it is separated by an almost impenetrable forest. It appears to be the centre of a volcanic action, and on its sides and all around are thermal springs in abundance, while from its crater are vomited forth torrents of steam and liquid mud. Stunted coniferous trees support but a precarious existence on its slopes. Prom observations made by Mr. Bidwell, Tongariro, excluding the cone which is 1500 feet in height, was found to be 6200 feet above the level of the sea; the cone starts from a hollow amphitheatre, and at its feet are streams of fresh undecomposed lava. The crater presented a terrific abyss of about a quarter of a mile in diameter, with a probable depth of 800 feet; it

was however impossible to look below from the rocks overhanging it, and the constant vapour arising from within. Around it were streams of hot mud and water, and in every direction magnificent mountains with perpendicular sides, some having snow-clad summits. Immediately south of Tongariro is the lofty Ruapahu, 9000 feet in height, once in volcanic action. On the west coast, within a short distance of New Plymouth, is Mount Egmont, rising in graceful magnificence from the level country in the form of a cone, having a base 30 miles in circumference, and its summit generally wrapped in snow for about 1500 feet from the apex. When visited by Dr. Dieffenbach he represents an escarpment near the top to be of blue basaltic lava, overlaid to the depth of 10 or 15 feet by a formation of rock boulders and pebbles, and on the summit there was a space, a square mile in extent, covered with snow, through which scoriae, slightly vitrified, protruded. In ascending the cone, rising from a platform, the path lay over cinders and slags of scoriaceous lava of various colours reduced to gravel on the surface. No eruption has taken place within the limits of native tradition. The mountains, generally speaking, are of trap formation.

We are chiefly indebted to Dr. Dieffenbach for the information we possess of the geology of the northern island. In his progress through the country, while connected with the New Zealand Company, he noted down the principal geological features which came under his observation; these, as far as practicable, have been

brought together and combined with similar information obtained from other sources.

The plains generally consist of a table land of stiff clay deposited at the original upheaving of the land, overlaid by a thin surface soil a few inches in depth, the result of the decayed vegetation of ages. The banks of rivers and their outlets are rich in alluvial deposits. In the northern island, near Kaitaia, the hills consist of a "soft argillaceous slate reposing upon a base of hard volcanic rock, plonolithe or clinkstone; and where they are in contact a transition of an interesting nature is observable from the hard condition of the latter to the soft state of the former." In some parts a slaty marl crops out, which might prove very useful in an agricultural point of view for some soils.

The Country around Auckland is of a slightly undulating nature, forming small bays open towards the harbour. The soil may be regarded as a soft pepper-coloured sandstone, or sandstone conglomerate with occasional seams of lignite. Copper and iron are worked at Auckland, and are said to have been seen in the islands near the gulf of Hauraki.

In the neighbourhood of Wangarooa Harbour a beautiful close-grained variegated marble is found in some abundance in connection with chloritic and argillaceous slate.

From Roturua to Taurangi the country is of a tufaceous character, undulating, and of a moderate height, well wooded, and with deep vegetable soil on a tufaceous

substratum, which gives the assurance that "in future times this will be a very rich country, of which Hauraki will be the natural outlet."

The Waipa Valley, extending from the mouth of the Waikato to Lake Taupo, is about 30 miles broad, the lower part being considered very rich, consisting of a volcanic table land with much alluvial deposit; the higher part is broken, undulating, and covered with coarse grass and fern, alternating with groves of the Kahikateea; it is sheltered from the wind, and possesses a pumiceous soil.

Immediately to the eastward of the Waipa is the valley of the Thames, richly wooded, forming a fine and extensive agricultural district.

In the neighbourhood of Taupo the original table land is broken into hillocks, in which regular terraces are visible, produced by the gradual fall of water; the hillocks are of tufa, or lapili of pumice stone, cemented together.

In the vicinity of New Plymouth, near Sugar-loaf Point, are large boulders of volcanic rocks apparently of an old date, such as basalts, greenstone, trachyte, and augitic rock, forming a conglomerate extending to Mount Egmont, though only traceable a short distance. Iron pyrites abound in the rocks, and a black titanic iron sand is found on the beach. Aqueous formations are visible about 10 feet above the sea, consisting of cliffs of yellow clay, containing a discoloured blackened earth,

the residuum of trees of existing orders, but destitute of animal remains.

The general character of the geology of Cook's Straits is a stratified yellow argillaceous slate on a pepper-coloured soft wacke, interrupted in a few places by basaltic masses, and in others by siliceous slate or lydean stone of various colours, moderately covered by vegetable mould, and more extensively so near the watercourses.

Arriving at the south-eastern coast we come to the beautiful valley of the Hutt, consisting of an argillaceous slate overlaid by boulders and pebbles of trappean formation, from 10 to 15 feet in thickness, covered with a thick mould and clayey soil extending to the foot of the hills. At equal elevations on the hills through which the river runs are platforms strewed with boulders and pebbles, indicating that the level of the river itself was once higher than it now is. A similarly terraced appearance exists on the coast far above the influence of the tides, which would lead to the belief that a rise of the land had taken place.

Our accounts of the Geology of the middle island are derived from the memoranda of W. Mantell, Esq., and from occasional notices by other parties. The fundamental rocks of the middle island are metamorphic schists and clay slate, with dykes of greenstone and compact and amygdaloidal basalt with intruded masses of obsidian, vesicular, trachytic lava, and other igneous products. Hornblende and porphyritic rocks, gneiss and serpentine

occur, but granite has not been observed. A curious boulder bank is found in Blind Bay, the causes of the formation of which apparently puzzle the geologist. The soil of the plains of the eastern coast, which extend a length of 130 miles by an average width of 35, is represented as "a loamy clay, varying to 10 feet in thickness, on a substratum of gravel, slightly coherent and composed principally of pebbles of schist, jasper, and white, yellow, pink, and green quartz." Some of the rivers, near their mouths, have a deposit of wood, about 10 feet from the surface, under a stratum of finely laminated sand. Bank's peninsula is entirely of volcanic formation, with metamorphic rocks cropping out on the crest of some of the ranges, and there are considerable traces of the action of waves considerably above the present high-water level. Two hundred feet below the banks of the Cholmondeley, on the adjoining plains, fossil sharks' teeth are found in abundance; limestone, intermitted with fossil marine shells, are found near Mount Grey; north of this again there is a range of large blocks of water-worn limestone above a red sandstone formation, intersected by vertical dykes of lava. Southward of the Canterbury settlement the country changes from a level plain to the undulating country of Timaru, in which the soil retains the same structure as it has more northward, resting upon vesicular volcanic rock for a short distance dipping to the south; afterwards it changes into small narrow plains among gentle downs. Beyond this, advancing to the south, the calcareous country of Waiouka

commences, consisting entirely of the remains of shells and corallines, containing encrinites, belemnites, and teretratulae, teeth of sharks, &c, Above Kakanui the country is volcanic upon diluvial gravel and clay; below Kakanui the tertiary blue clay appears, containing volutes dentalia, madrepores, and a few traces of fish and wood. Lower down, below the white bluff, in the same formation, are septaria varying from 1 to 6 feet in diameter, forming the material from which Roman cement is made. These are succeeded by green gritty marls with layers of nodules of iron pyrites; a dark porphyritic rock with broken crystals of felspar traversed in every direction by beautifully variegated veins of quartz and chalcedony. Lower down again the tertiary clay emerges, and the bones of the dinormis are found in great numbers and perfection, resting on blue clay.

A distinguished geologist, reviewing the facts connected with fossil deposits, concludes that the argillaceous strata, containing fossil shells, which exist in the neighbourhood of Whanganui, on the north coast of Cook's Straits, and the clay formation of Onekakara to the north of Otago in the middle island, are outliers of one continuous stratum, and infers, from their height above the present sea level, corresponding with equally raised aqueous deposits, terraces of trap boulders, and tide marks, that an upheaving of the earth took place long before the Pacific became inhabited by the existing species of mollusca. The Moa bed deposits at Waikouiate, though "but of yesterday in geological history," are also refer-

red to a period very long previous to the arrival of the aborigines in the country when those noble bipeds densely occupied the country.

Thermal springs are very abundant in the northern island, principally in the neighbourhood of Taupo. This lake is situated in lat. 38.45 and lon. 176 east, it is 1337 feet above the level of the sea, of a triangular form, measuring 36 miles by 25, and mostly surrounded by high pumice-stone cliffs with hills adjoining, some of which latter are 1600 feet high. It is fed by one or more rivers, and encircled by some fine rich land. There are also several thermal springs in the vicinity of Waimatee in the Bay of Islands and near the Kahutakino Lake. These springs are aluminous, alkaline, and acidulous; the thermometer ranging in each at 62, 124 and 154 Fahrenheit respectively, while in the shade it stood at 80. The "gaseous exhalations of sulphuric acid have much altered the argillaceous rocks which are covered with fine sublimations of pure alum, sulphur, and of different sulphates." The numerous thermal springs around Taupo range from N. E. to S. W. have "clear and agreeably acidulous water slightly smelling of hydrosulphurous gas," and some indicate the presence of salts. "Mud and sand are thrown up by others, forming a complete volcanic range of miniature hills," the cones of which are truncated and of various heights, some measuring 15 feet at the base and 10 feet in height. "One of the most impressive features existing in this spot is a pond, just below a white cliff 60 feet in height, which is continually

boiling and throwing up jets of fluid, with great violence and noise, from 8 to 10 feet high; the edge of the pond is coated with a white clay. In the delta formed by the Waikato entering Taupo are some fine springs covering an area of 2 square miles and separated by a thin crust from subterranean and volcanic caverns, whence issue incessant noises; the crust is a foot in thickness and of a hard white stratum of pumiceous earth, sulphur, and a chalcedony, entire or under formation, resting on soft and often hot mud. Occasionally this crust falls in, and fearful scaldings are the consequence. In the smaller springs the natives cook their meals.

Passing from Taupo, along the line of volcanic action in the direction of White Island on the eastern coast, we reach the lakes Rotu-mahana, and Rotu-rua, which Dr. Dieffenbach describes as presenting "one of the grandest views he had ever beheld." Surmounting the hills which enclose the former, there appears "a deep lake of a blue colour surrounded by verdant hills." In the lake are "several islets, some showing bare rocks, others covered with shrubs, while on all of them steam issued from an hundred openings between the green foliage without affecting its freshness. On the opposite side is a flight of broad steps like white marble with a rosy tint, with a cascade of boiling water falling over into the lake."

A little to the northward of Taupo is lake Rotu-rua, in form nearly circular, and about 24 miles in circumference; on its banks are numerous hot springs emitting

columns of steam and water 2 feet in diameter to the height of 3 or 4 feet, and around are deposits of a jasperlike formation. Some of these springs possess petrifying powers. Around are cones of sulphur, and in the neighbourhood is one of the finest villages in New Zealand, the inhabitants of which use the water for boiling. A stone of carbonate of magnesia, resembling the meerschaum, is found in this locality.

One would be doing an injustice to New Zealand if its iron ore were to be passed over with only a cursory notice. On the coast of Taranakee, and on the northern coast of Cook's Straits, not far from Whanganui, a per oxide, or protoxide of iron may be seen glistening in rich abundance. It is scarcely possible to conceive a mine offering greater facilities for working: a shovel and a barrow is the only investment in machinery that is necessary. It is represented by competent judges to possess the qualities of the best Swedish steel, yielding from 38 to 59 per cent, while the English ore yields only 30 to 35. The price of foreign steel varies from £20 to £40 the ton, and the north of Europe exports annually 22,000 tons. Iron is found in the ore near Auckland.

Coal, the prime deposit of every country, rich though they be in gold or silver, is found in many places: on the river Waikato, on the banks of the Manakau 40 miles from New Plymouth, and at Massacre Bay 50 miles to the west of Nelson, on the Selwyn 40 miles from Christchurch in the Canterbury Settlement, at the Saddleback 5 miles from Dunedin, and at the mouth of the Moly-

neaux river in the Otago settlement. This coal has been accurately tested on board Her Majesty's vessel the "Acheron." The consumption is one fourth greater than the Newcastle coal (New South Wales), but it possesses no trace of bituminous matter. That of Massacre Bay and Canterbury contains much sulphur, the Otago much less, and the Waikato is free from it.

Copper is found near "Auckland and Nelson and worked profitably, and gold has been discovered on the northwest coast of the northern island.

Our knowledge of the Botany of New Zealand is chiefly derived from the memoranda collected by Dr. Dieffenbach. An attempt is here made to arrange these into classes, condensing at the same time the information afforded by others. It is not possible to be otherwise than struck with the poverty of the flora of New Zealand, and it is therefore desirable to remember that its genial climate receives most kindly all importations, which gratefully acknowledge the warmth of their welcome by transcending, if possible, or at least emulating, their original loveliness. It has been calculated that one sixth of the plants in any botanic region are monocotyledoonous; that in tropical climates the dicotyledonous exceed the acotylydonous, while towards the polar regions the latter prevail. In islands remote from a continent the monocotyledonous are more numerous than that above stated.

The undue preponderance in New Zealand of the cellular and cryptogamous plants, or lower kinds, viz, 245 out of 632 species, is justly considered as an evidence of

the recent formation of the islands, and moreover gives a tropical character to the vegetation. Out of 632 species 314 are dicotyledons, and 318 monocotyledons and acotyledons. More than one half of the entire vegetation is flowerless, such as ferns, mosses, sea weeds, lichens, and fungi; the first mentioned alone occupying more than one third of the whole, varying from the most minute conformations to trees more than 30 feet in height; the grasses are about one quarter the number of ferns,, and the sedge tribe is in about the same proportion.

Among the most valuable trees belonging to the monoecia monadelphia are the following: –

Dammara Australis – natural order, coniferae: native name, Kauri. Principally confined to the northern parts of the northern island. It is the only cone-bearing pine in New Zealand, and generally grows on hills of argillaceous slate covered with a stiff white clay, attains a height of 70 to 90 feet without a branch, and is a handsome tree of a yellowish colour. It furnishes the most valuable spars for the largest ships, and yields a kind of copal. The forests containing these trees have been subject to a most wasteful expenditure, and if remedial measures are not early adopted, the trade in them will suffer very severely.

Dacrydium cupressinum – (Taxaceae: Reemu). This pine grows to the height of 60 or 70 feet without a branch, and from 12 to 14 feet in circumference. It is called the red pine from the colour of its foliage, and like all the pines of the same order has most beautiful pendu-

lous branches of a lovely green resembling the weeping willow. It furnishes a hard wood free from knots, and is useful for house-building and for furniture.

Dacrydium Excelsum (Taxaceae: Kahikatea). Called the white pine from the colour of its bark. It grows occasionally to the height of 90 feet without a branch. The timber is sound but light and sappy, not durable, shrinks from exposure being a quick grower, and free from knots. It grows on swampy ground. It is used for lining rooms, and produces a red berry much esteemed by the natives.

Podocarpus ferruginea (Taxaceae: meeroo). Grows from 40 to 60 feet in height, and 8 feet in circumference. It produces a smooth close-grained dark timber which freely splits and is extremely durable.

Podocarpus totara (Taxaceae; totara). Grows to the height of 60 feet without a branch, and from 15 to 24 feet in circumference, resembling the oak. It furnishes a heavy and very valuable wood, splits freely, is durable both above and below ground, and well adapted for shipbuilding.

Phyllocladus trichomanoides (Taxaceae: tanikaha). Grows to the height of about 60 feet, and 9 feet in circumference. It is an elastic and tough wood, admirably adapted for deck planks, and by some supposed to be better than the Kauri for spars: it also affords a reddish dye.

Areca sapida (Palmaceae: tee palm or cabbage palm). A species of the valuable plants which include the betel

nut. It is a most graceful tree and covers extensive tracts, rising to a height of 30 or 40 feet, with a circumference of 3 feet. Its leaves are useful for roofing, and the heart of the undeveloped leaves is eaten by the natives.

Of the Monoecia polyandria we have the Caladium esculentum (Araceae: taru). This plant is said to have been brought by the New Zealanders on their immigration.

Of the Monoecia, triandria –

The Typha angustifolia (Typhaceae; raupo), which covers extensive low and marshy grounds. The reed is very useful in roofing houses, and as furnishing materials for bedding when the flower is baked. The roots are greedily devoured by wild pigs.

Of the Dioecia polyandria –

The Taxus matai (Taxaceae: matai). It grows to the height of 50 feet, and about 14 feet in circumference. The wood is of a red colour and easily worked.

Of the Dioecia decandria –

The Coriaria Sarmentosa (unknown – tootoo). A shrub from which a kind of wine is sometimes made. The seeds of the berry are poisonous. Cattle and sheep are very fond of it, and in consequence suffer severely at times. It covers extensive districts.

The Vitex littoralis – (Verbenaceae: Pureeree) is chiefly in the north: grows from 30 to 50 feet high, and from 12 to 20 feet in circumference. It is a hard and durable wood, from which property it derives its

name of iron wood. It is useful for forming the foundation of houses, fencing posts, and generally for purposes where hard wood is required; it moreover splits readily.

Leptospermum Moparium (Myrtaceae manuka). This is a small tree or shrub very extensively spread over the country. It emits a beautiful scent when in flower, and tea is made from its leaves. The wood is useful for paddles and handles to axes.

Metrosideros robusta (Myrtaceae: rata). A parasitic plant winding round other trees when young; bearing very handsome crimson flowers. It is considered the king of New Zealand trees. Its wood is extremely hard and durable, its colour a reddish brown. A very ancient one near Kawaia harbour is 54 feet in circumference and hollow. It is well adapted for work in which crooked wood is required.

Metrosideros tormentosa (Myrtaceae: pohutukawa), chiefly confined to the north; a gnarled, hard, close-grained, brittle, and tough wood. It is used for shipbuilding and farming implements.

Elaeocarpus hinau (Tiliacaae: hinau). Grows to a considerable height. The timber is white, and frangible on exposure. It affords an excellent puce colour or jet-black dye, and throws out curious excrescences from its branches.

The following may also be noted as peculiar to New Zealand, the Zuncus filiformis. A rush which covers large districts in the northern island, and indicates po-

verty of soil, and a retentive subsoil. The ripogonum parviflorum (Smilicaceae: kari). A supple jack interlacing the forest in a most perplexing manner; very extensively spread: it is used for thatching huts or for hurdles. The black birch, which is represented as harder than the pine, and valuable for ship-building; it is a certain indication of great poverty of soil.

The native Kei-kei, a parasitic plant, which grows on the branches of trees, in form like the flax and gives a peculiar appearance to the New Zealand forest. The central leaves and fruit are edible.

The Phormium tenax (Liliaceae) which abounds with a delicious honey when the flower assumes a crimson tint. It has 12 leaves, the flower-stalk springing from among them to the height of 12 feet. It produces a most excellent flax, which is used for ropes, dresses, mats, writing materials, and a thousand other purposes, &c.: when luxuriant, that is, the leaves about 5 feet in length, it indicates a rich soil. It appears all over the country.

The Agropyruin repens (Graminaceae). A species of couch grass: appears early in spring. The Lolium (Graminaceae). A species of rye grass. The Chaetariae hystrix (Graminaceae). A kind of porcupine grass which affords when young a food of which sheep are very fond. The native sow-thistle, wild cabbage, and turnip are supposed to have been introduced. The Toi-toi appears all over the country: it is a reed like grass, growing to the height of 8 or 9 feet: when young it is a favourite with cattle and horses. The leaf is used for thatching, the

reed for the internal decoration of houses, the plume, when gathered at the proper time, for bedding, and the roots are eaten by swine.

As a general rule, New Zealand may be regarded as destitute of fruits, though capable of producing them to any extent and to great excellence.

The stranger will be enchanted with the noble Clematis Albida, a forest creeper which twines its white flowers with much taste amongst the rich green foliage. The Tree Fern, with its lofty stem and far-spreading pendent head, is the personification of elegance. The Fuchsia Excortica, with its barkless trunk and blood-stained corolla, is preeminent among the trees of the forest; and as an embodiment of fragrance and utility, the humble anise, spread over many a million of acres, imparts a most delicious scent to the passer by, while it affords to the sheep and cattle a most nourishing article of food.

The natives have turned their attention to producing potatoes, maize, melons, pumpkins, and gourds, and have generally discarded the natural productions of the country from their diet roll. The koomera or sweet potatoe is still a favourite, and his European fellow promises to attain to as great a celebrity as it has attained in Ireland.

The Flax plant deserves a more lengthened notice than it has received; gratitude for being an ever present help in many an hour of need induces me to recall its many merits; writers on New Zealand have delighted to sing its praise, and I must perforce, if not from inclination,

join the chorus. Perhaps the importance of the plant may be better estimated when we remember that in 14 years we have paid Russia £11,000,000 for the hemp used in one of our chief dockyards. That in 1845 we exported flax yarn to the amount of 23,288,725 lbs. and that our woven flax goods, such as linen, exported in the same year, amounted to £3,000,000. The Flax plant is indigenous to New Zealand and grows most luxuriantly. The best kind, Tiori, grows near Taranaki. The experiments in 1852, at Woolwich dockyard, speak very decisively in favour of the New Zealand flax. Two patent bands of similar material and construction were submitted to be tested: a patent band of the best Russian hemp 5 inches in width broke at 2 tons 7 1/2 cwts, while a patent band of New Zealand hemp 5 inches in width broke at 5 tons. A patent band of Russian hemp 3 inches in width broke at 1 ton 10 cwt, while a patent band of New Zealand hemp 3 inches in width broke at 2 tons 15 cwt. A common rope of 2 1/4 inches in circumference of the best Russian hemp broke at 3 tons 12 1/2 cwt.; very good rope bears a strain of 1 ton to the inch. Manilla hemp fetches from £50 to £70 per ton, and New Zealand hemp (if properly cleaned) the same sum, with this additional advantage, that when worn out it is worth £10 per ton.

Of animal life there is little to be said, for, always excepting the sand-fly and musquitoe, of whose existence no one who has ever been in the interior has had a doubt, there does not appear any superabundance. The gigantic Dinormis, which stalked in solitary grandeur

amidst the dense and scarce penetrable forest, has disappeared.

The Kiwi, that strange natural anomaly which took to his heels before his wings were finished, is now only to be seen in the darkest recesses of the bush; while the Mutton Bird, a concentrated sheep, burrows far out of sight.

The Tui a handsome glossy-plumaged bird affords much entertainment to his neighbours by the amazing extent of his imitative powers, his never-ceasing restlessness, and when dressed in his black suit with his bands on, by the declamatory style of his exhortations.

The Mako-mako – sweetest of songsters, whose early chime, resembling the most enchanting notes of the distant peal of bells, subdues and elevates the mind, oft have I almost breathlessly reclined enamoured of thy song, attuned to melody, and impressive from the very simplicity of its strains.

The Kaka, of the parrot tribe, makes ample amends for the harshness of his voice by the substantial and delicate flavour of its flesh when appearing at table.

The Kapuka, akin to the pigeon, is represented as reviving our reminiscence of game.

The Tirakara, an elegant little bird, whose lively movements in pursuit of the fly show off his fan tail and black and white plumage to advantage.

The Crested Cormorant, or Kauwa, is a beautiful bird and shares with the Tui the duties of public preacher.

The Water-hen, Wood-hen or Weka, Wild Duck, Teal, Quail, and Hawk, are not dissimilar to their European

brethren and need no particular notice, except, perhaps, in the case of the Wood-hen, whose wings appear to have been intended only to assist in the use of his legs.

If animal life is scarce, venemous reptiles and insects are happily unknown. Bats, lizards, grasshoppers, caterpillars, ants, centipedes devoid of poison, spiders, blowflies, musquitoes, sand-flies, and an invaluable selection of vermin nearly complete the list. The indigenous rat is almost exterminated, and the wild dog is considered an importation. The bee has taken quietly to his transportation, and is reported to repay his passage money by swarming seven times a year.

The adjoining seas are reported to abound in fish of an excellent flavour.

CHAPTER V. AUCKLAND, CANTERBURY AND NELSON.

CHAPTER V.

AUCKLAND, CANTERBURY AND NELSON.

IN endeavouring to obtain some information about Auckland, containing about a quarter of the entire population of New Zealand, one almost fancied oneself in the pursuit of some ideal country; or if by any chance you attain to some knowledge of its existence, it appears as great a colonial anomaly as the "Kiwi" is a natural phenomenon. It is represented as situated among extinct volcanoes at nearly the northern extremity of the island, amidst populous tribes whose chief delight is in war, dependent upon the lavish expenditure of Government on account of establishments ill placed, troops not needed, and pensioners of doubtful utility, remote from the focus of trade, and destitute of any real advantages. It would be hard to believe in the existence of such a place were it not that the English exchequer asserts the fact in language not to be misunderstood, that is, by an annual expenditure of about £200,000, with an occasional make-weight of £100,000 additional. It appears to be to the colonial office what Algeria is to France, a fair field for testing colonial theories.

It was selected as the site of missionary operations, and

judiciously so, from the surrounding dense native population, whalers resorted thither for their supplies, which the adjacent valleys in the Bay of islands, on the Waikato, Thames, and Waipa afforded in abundance; a Government establishment emerged to regulate the movements of the rising Britain; antagonism with a remote association nourished its energies; political theories were broached and needed military support in their developement; land speculators visited the neighbourhood and reaped a golden harvest, amounting in some well authenticated cases to at least £550 per acre; emigrants arrived, juveniles from Pentonville were imported and thrived, embodied pensioners were located on the frontier at a considerable expense, colleges sprang up in connection with the Church of England and the Wesleyans, roads were formed by Government at no small outlay, and the result of all this is the town of Auckland.

If some view it in this chrysalis state, others delight to dwell on it when its golden wings are expanded to the gentle zephyrs. Its harbour, clothed from the summits of lofty hills to the water's edge with luxuriant vegetation reflected on the unruffled surface of the ocean, is represented, and with truth, as undeniably excellent; an Eden, gently rising, affords a convenient retreat from whence the infant gambols of this southern scion of a noble house may be viewed; forests of merchant navies supply the place of other forests which once embraced the town, but which are now without a living representative; – an Epsom, fruitful in associations, within 10

miles, evidences by facts as hard as scoriae, the universality of the Macadam theory; and amidst its innumerable advantages it is said that if it cannot boast of the loveliness and fertility of New Plymouth, it is not like it restricted to an open roadstead; if it has not the wealth of Wellington, it is not subject like it to those violent earthquakes which shake one off the land only to be wrecked at sea; and if it is without the heaven-born climate of Nelson, it is not like it encircled by the emaciated arms of poverty: indeed, in all its esentials, it is confidently asserted as willing to stand a fair comparison with its southern sisters.

It is not easy to ascend a Tongariro far above the mists and prejudices of settlements, and gaze with an impartial eye on these contending claims; we will make an attempt to cast off the artificial garments which may fade and decay, and exhibit this northern town as possessing no doubtful claims from her own intrinsic merits.

Any importance which Auckland derives from being the seat of Government must be done away with at once, for its situation not only does not entitle it to this preference, but rather disqualifies it; for the natural seat of power is in Cook's Straits. The large expenditure on account of the troops will only be allowed to continue while the British Government bears its brunt, and the pensioners' villages will exist only during a similar period; for the colonists having the bit in their mouths are not likely to be guided by the will of another while the treasury spur freely draws their blood.

Steam navigation by the Panama route will prefer the coal deposits in Cook's Straits to the scoriae of Auckland, and the ports of Wellington, Lyttleton, and Chalmers will command all the shipping in order to convey the staple of New Zealand, viz. its wool, to the home market.

Let us glance at the situation of the town which is considered the most compact and well arranged one in New Zealand: it is situated on the southern shore of Waitemata Harbour, a bay in the gulf of Hauraki. The entrance into the harbour does not exceed three quarters of a mile in width, and is the same distance from the southern head, from which also the town is distant about 2 1/2 miles. The harbour increases a quarter of a mile in width within the heads, it is from 6 to 9 fathoms deep in the channel and 3 at the sides, extends 10 miles to the westward, and then terminates by two inlets running north and south, the latter navigable within a mile and a half of the western coast at Manukao Harbour. Depot Points is in late. 36.50.05 and longe. 174.50.40, – the variation of the compass is 14..18, and the tide rises from 7 to 11 feet. The soil is represented, within a few miles of the town, as of an inferior description, but fine agricultural spots, though destitute of wood, are obtainable between the mouth of Manukao and Auckland, a distance of 17 miles. The harbour of Manukao is bar-mouthed, but a good channel exists close to the northern shore, it is deep and free from danger within; the prevalence of westerly winds, however, often detains vessels ready to sail for weeks together. It is to its proximity to rich

and extensive valleys, from its vicinity to the whaling grounds, and its Kauri timber, that Auckland derives its chief importance. Gold has been discovered, and copper has been worked in its neighbourhood. When the aboriginals have disappeared from the face of the earth (a not improbable or remote contingency), Auckland will assume a position which will give her the command of some of the finest agricultural districts in the country, and will then start fair in competing for commercial preeminence.

CANTERBURY.

The Canterbury Association, adopting and extending the peculiar principle of the Scotch colony at Otago, designed the formation of a colony composed entirely of members of the Church of England. Fettered as the Church is by its connexion with the State, it was resolved, with a view to the efficient administration of her ordinances and the free exercise of her discipline, that an endowment and a provision, sufficient for its ecclesiastical and educational purposes, should be obtained from the sale of land, and placed under trust of the Society for the Propagation of the Gospel in foreign parts. It was reasonably expected that these advantages would offer inducements to the high and middle classes to emigrate to a country said to be not much inferior to their own in all the materials of wealth, and this migration of a complete section of society would, in addition to the other ad-

vantages, including a concentrated population around the parish Church, act beneficially in furtherance of their scheme. Capital and labour were to be kept in due proportion by a similar appropriation of a part of the proceeds of the land sales, while from the same source was to arise a fund which would meet the exigencies of a newly formed colony, viz. the surveying of the land, the formation of roads, and the necessary preparation for the comfortable subsistence of the newly arrived colonists.

So noble and disinterested an object was worthy of all success. The hierarchy, nobility, and gentry readily responded to the appeal. A cursory glance at the names of the members of the committee, while giving assurance that this was no party scheme, at least in its developement, should cause the churchman to recognize with pride this additional evidence that the best interests of the poor are not unheeded by the noble and the rich. A reference to page 689 of the Canterbury papers will convince the sceptical, if emphatic statements are worth anything, that all party spirit is disclaimed, extremes are repudiated, whether they be known under the designation of "Puseyism" or bigoted Evangelicism. No priest-ridden colony was in contemplation; no middle age spiritual supremacy desired: the Church was to be unconnected with the State, and clerical influence was to depend on example and persuasion as in other denominations.

On the 13th of November, 1849, the Canterbury Association was incorporated by Royal Charter. It avoided

any pecuniary interest in the undertaking. A negotiation with the New Zealand Company, as trustee for the Crown, for the purchase of land, terminated in the acquisition of 1,000,000 acres, subsequently conditionally increased to 2,400,000, which the Company had purchased of the natives for £2000, with a native reserve of 2400 acres. The Association offered this for sale at £3 per acre (gold and silver being retained by the crown), with certain pasturage advantages, reserving to themselves the right to reject any ineligible applicants.

The proceeds of the sales, from time to time accruing, were to be appropriated in 6 parts, in the following proportions: –

For religious and educational purposes 2 or 33 1/3 per cent.
For emigration........................... 2 or 33 1/3 per cent.
For miscellaneous purposes ............ 1 or 16 2/3 per cent.
For repayment of the purchase of the land 1 or 16 2/3 percent.

The fund arising from the appropriation for ecclesiastical and educational purposes was to be laid out in the erection of Churches, a College, Schools, residences for a Bishop, Archdeacon, Principal of the College, and Clergy, and also for providing stipends for a Bishop, Archdeacon, Clergymen, and Schoolmasters, which were respectively fixed at £1000, £600, £200, and £70 each per annum.

The fund for emigration was to provide for the passage to the colony of one labourer for every 15 acres of land parted with, the labourer to be nominated by the purchaser and approved of by the Association.

The fund for miscellaneous purposes was to provide for a trigonometrical survey of the whole Settlement, the survey of selected sections, the commencement of trunk roads, the erection of temporary buildings, and the expenses incidental to the home and colonial offices.

The remaining part was not considered more than would be necessary to reimburse the New Zealand Company for the expenses incurred in their operations.

To Captain Thomas, a gentleman of considerable local experience, was entrusted, in concert with the Governor and Bishop of New Zealand, the responsible duty of selecting a site. Their choice fell upon the plains lying adjacent to Port Cooper, possessing the advantages of a good harbour, fertile and well watered plains, extensive grazing tracts, and a fine climate. The preliminary arrangements were confided to Mr. Godley, a gentleman who had taken a warm interest in the Association's plans from the commencement, who was in every respect well qualified to execute so arduous and responsible an undertaking, and whose success has been so complete as to reflect the highest credit on his zeal, judgment, and ability.

The Canterbury territory is comprised between 43 and 44 south latitude, and 171 to 172 east longitude, extending along the eastern coast of the middle island, and about half way across it, enclosing in an irregular form about 2,400,000 acres. It is bounded on the north by a low range of hills, beyond which extend for many miles a succession of downs covered with grasses of the most

luxuriant growth; on the west by another range, mostly capped with snow, at the average distance of 40 or 50 miles; and on the south by a gradually ascending plain, also terminating in low hilly ranges. Jutting out from about the centre of the coast line is Bank's Peninsula, consisting of a conglomerate of hills about 3000 feet in height, densely wooded, and having many portions available for pasture.

Separating the port of Lyttleton from Christchurch, the chief town, is a range of hills about 2000 feet high, from the summit of which a spur, running westward, by a gradual descent of 3 miles, affords a communication between the two.

The general surface of the land is level, with a gentle ascent towards the south of about 25 feet, and towards the west of about 500. The soil within 10 miles of the coast consists of a light loam and rich mould, with a subsoil of blue clay resting upon sand or gravel. In some few places the country is swampy, and in others, during the winter, inundated, an evil said to be easily remedied by main drains, which are under consideration, but altogether yielding excellent cereal crops and affording the finest natural pasture for cattle and sheep. Every where there are indications of the country having been heavily timbered.

Numerous rivers and streams intersect the plains, running from the western range easterly or south easterly, excavating beds near their sources, some 300 feet in a perpendicular drop, generally rapid and shallow, though

subject to a considerable rise after the prevalence of northwest winds which melt the snow in the adjoining hill ranges. The water of these rivers, especially of the central streams, in the language of hydropathists, can only be compared to nectar.

The Courtenay has a bar with 5 feet at low water, navigable for small vessels for 6 miles, but liable to floods within that distance during spring arising from the melted snow, and in autumn from the north-west rainy winds. The Courtenay and the Cholmondeley, excepting from the slight navigable advantages the former possesses, are considered rather as impediments than an acquisition. The latter is contained within high banks and is not navigable. The lesser streams between the Courtenay and the Selwyn, though small, may become useful by affording good water communication through the fertile districts, and good water power above for mills; they moreover possess the great advantage of never overflowing. The Avon is a fine stream rising through a gravel bed about 4 miles above Christchurch; at the latter place it is 5 feet deep, swelling into a navigable river, with a rise and fall not exceeding 2 feet: the banks vary in height from 5 to 20 feet. Near its mouth it receives the Heathcote, and shortly after, near Sumner, it empties itself into the sea. At the entrance there is a bar of 11 feet at high, and 5 feet at low, water.

The Ellesmere lake lies to the south-west of Bank's Peninsula, containing 10,000 acres, and is very shallow. Lake Coleridge is about 300 feet above the bed of the

Cholmondeley, and enclosed among lofty and precipitous mountains.

Port Victoria, formerly Port Cooper, is situated in the north western angle of Bank's Peninsula, and has many excellent qualities, being easily approachable, with gradually shoaling water, having no bar at its entrance, and though open 1 1/4 points E. N. E. is considered to afford a fair anchorage to vessels provided with good ground gear. The only danger arises from a combination of a north-east gale with a heavy swell caused by violent south-east winds. This danger may be avoided by mooring or anchoring on the north side where the water is deeper. Large ships can anchor about 4 miles up, while brigs and large schooners may lie off the port town. There are no hidden dangers within, or at its entrance, where it is a mile wide. It is about 6 or 7 miles in length. The shore is bold, and though a swell sets in from the north-east it is no impediment to a ship unloading. Wood and water are not easily obtained; the neighbouring ports of Pigeon Bay and Port Levy have, however, an abundance of both, easily procurable, and moreover afford safe anchorages. The harbour receives additional importance from the circumstance of its being the only available one for export between the Kaikoras and the river Waitangi, comprising from 4 to 5,000,000 acres of excellent land.

Akaroa Bay is excellent; opening to the south, but somewhat dangerous for sailing vessels from its high and precipitous cliffs, narrow entrance, and turbulent sea. It

is unfortunately separated from the Canterbury plains by a tract of hilly country about 30 miles in extent.

As regards its geological formation, the Canterbury block may be considered to consist of a loamy clay varying. in thickness to 10 feet, on a substratum of gravel slightly coherent and principally composed of schist, jasper, and quartz; in other parts it consists of a sandy loam with sandy clay subsoil; while nearer the mountains it is partly covered with stone but affording good pasture. Considerable quantities of peat are found on the Courtenay and Heathcote, and coal has also been discovered on the Selwyn, 40 miles from Christchurch: it appears to be from 6 to 10 fathoms in thickness, running east and west, and dipping to the southward at an angle of 30 or 40 degrees. Specimens which have been submitted to analysis and experiments indicate the presence of a great quantity of sulphur, but no traces of bituminous matter, leaving a residuum, after ignition, of brownish red hard clinkers.

The subject of climate having been fully noticed before, it is not necessary to enter fully into it in this place. The spring is mild, not unlike a spring in England. The summer is considered to be warm with much bright weather, a moderate amount of rain, and the prevalence of gales of wind from the north-west and north-east, which are represented as very disagreeable. During autumn the finest weather prevails, and towards its close slight frosts occur with unpleasant high winds from the southwest. The winter, viz. from the 15th of May,

to the 15th of August, is characterized by fine days, frequent frosty nights and mornings, with an occasional gale from the south-west accompanied by heavy rain, and sometimes by a few falls of snow which disappear in a few hours. The sea breeze from the north east sets in about 10 a. m., freshens towards sunset, and is succeeded by a light and calm land breeze. The northwest wind is warm and dry, occasionally too hot, but succeeded by a pleasant south-wester.

The soil and climate of Canterbury are represented as particularly favourable to the growth of every species of European grain and fruit. – Potatoes yielding from 7 to 15 tons the acre without manure; wheat, and barley, and oats producing never less than 20 bushels the acre, and where the land has been carefully prepared twice that quantity, and even more. The cheese manufactured here is considered very fine, while the beef and mutton are unsurpassed. Ewes yield 105 per cent, of lambs; the small fine-woolled wether weighing 60 lbs. The weight of wool on ewes averages 3 1/2 lbs. and the fleece of the pure merino is said to yield 6 1/4 lbs. The plains of Canterbury may be regarded as greatly deficient in available timber; parties travelling are obliged to keep close to the banks of rivers to avail themselves of the immense quantities of drift wood lying about; and an additional inconvenience results from this paucity of timber in the want of shelter during the prevalence of strong winds in summer and winter. A forest of 200 acres, within 3 miles of Christchurch, is the only wood procurable for 8 miles.

In the Oxford district, on the western side of the plains, there is an abundance of wood, as there is also further to the south, near to and upon the hills. Indeed, when the population becomes more dense, and there are greater facilities for transport, the wooded parts will be amply sufficient for the supply of the settlement.

Flax grows to the height of 5 to 8 feet along the banks of rivers or in moist districts. The grasses are the tufted and three others resembling the crested dog-tail and downy oat grass of England; these three kinds are very abundant in the grazing grounds and level country, and, where eaten down, are gradually forming a sward. The anise, geranium, and sow thistle are eaten by stock.

Among beasts, birds, and fishes, we may mention the rat, in abundance; crow; parson-birds, in numbers; wood-hen; hawk; quail, abundant; gull; paradise duck; black duck; teal; widgeon; pigeon; large red-brown parrot; putangi; pukeko; wild pig; eels; enaki, the young of which are like white bait; sole; herring; cod; and oysters.

Lyttleton, the port town, is situated about 4 miles from the mouth of the harbour on its northern shore. It is confined in its extent and somewhat deficient in water.

Christchurch, the chief town, is situated on the Avon, about 10 miles from Lyttleton, and separated from it by a range of hills. A road is under construction connecting the two: running towards the entrance of the harbour and crossing the range at an elevation of 650 feet and at a distance of about 2 miles; descending the same

distance it reaches Sumner on the plains: it now runs between the hills and an estuary of the sea for about 3 miles, at the head of which it crosses the Heathcote and enters Christchurch at the distance of 4 miles. The gradient over the hill is gentle, being 1 in 20. There is also a communication by water round Godley-head, but it is considered impracticable in bad weather; there is also a bridle path at the height of 1260 feet. This indifferent, expensive, and uncertain communication has induced some parties, who are otherwise well satisfied with the capabilities of the settlement, to hesitate about emigrating thither. The disadvantage is doubtless a serious one, but there are no difficulties which cannot be surmounted by an expenditure of £20,000 or £30,000. It would be an interesting inquiry whether an equal sum has not been expended for a similar purpose by the patrons of Auckland and Wellington, which have not such agricultural mines behind from which to extract repayment. The uncertainty of the sea communication which sometimes assumes the form of a few weeks continuous detention, and the bold attitude of defiance which the range of hills between the port and the chief town has established against intercommunication has led the thoughts of many an adventurous colonist deep into the bowels of the earth; in fact, through a tunnel of about a mile in length. Of the feasibility of such a step our own railway experience amply testifies; of its immediately repaying the outlay is another and a more serious question.

On reviewing the facts which have come under observation, I feel disposed to accord to the Canterbury settlement, if not a preeminence, at least a position second to none in New Zealand. As an agricultural country it has great advantages, in a light soil well adapted for every description of crop, wheat excepted, and capable of being well drained. I have been informed, on authority which I could not question, that one acre has actually produced 70 bushels of wheat; but then this is no criterion: such nuggets are only found occasionally. The average yield does not exceed 25 or 30 bushels. The barley is reported to be very fine and obtains 10s the bushel, and wheat 12s. These rates are high, and would richly repay the producer, were not wages equally so. An instance has lately been mentioned to me where 30s per week for the whole year was refused. Again, timber is very dear either for fuel or fencing. These are drawbacks, but the person not deterred by such spectres may secure a section of 50 acres from £80 to £100, and if he have spare cash he may invest it under his own immediate observation at 10 per cent, or anticipating a future demand for land, buy from the Government at the rate of 5s. to 10s. the acre, the former for agricultural, the latter for pastoral land. Flocks and herds are reported to be occupying much of the latter, which is represented as well adapted for sheep farming.

NELSON.

The settlement of Nelson was formed in the year 1841, by the New Zealand Company, and in the October of the same year the first body of emigrants arrived. Having previously alluded to the controversies between the local Government and the Company respecting the land claimed by the latter, it is unnecessary in this place to say more than that the location of the settlement at Nelson was more the result of accident and necessity than of decided preference. Port Cooper, now the settlement of Canterbury, was selected; but permission for its occupation was refused by the Government, which it is said was desirous of concentrating the European population in the neighbourhood of Auckland. Owing to there being only 20,000 acres of suitable land in Blind Bay, out of the 70,000 which were reported as available to meet the colonists' demands of 112,000, Massacre Bay to the westward, and Cloudy Bay to the eastward, were explored; but negotiations for the occupation of the lands in these quarters terminated unsuccessfully.

It is difficult to ascertain on whom the responsibility of the sad tragedy of Wairau rests. The Government, in opposing the survey of the land, acted upon the opinion that the validity of the claim should be established in the first place; the Agent of the Company regarded the validity as beyond all question; and the natives, but little acquainted with moral and passive opposition, resist-

ed by force the attempted survey and seizure. The question appears to have been difficult of adjustment, for in 1846 the Wairau plains in Cloudy Bay were finally purchased from the natives by an additional payment and attached to the Nelson district. The earlier colonists had to endure much privation and suffering which gave rise to controversies between them and the Company. The amount of land purchased by absentees provided means for the importation of a larger quantity of labour than the resident landowners could employ, and in consequence a large portion left for other settlements, while, to retain the remainder, employment was given them by the Company on works of questionable utility; a policy much objected to, as it not only wasted funds, but raised the price of labour. Complaints were made that the ecclesiastical support given by the Company was partial, being chiefly confined to the Episcopal Church; that charges were improperly made on the emigration fund; that educational objects and intercolonial communication were neglected; that of the 51 acres which, up to 1848, each had received in lieu of an allotment of 201, one half was useless, while the whole price of 30s. per acre had been paid. The Company met these charges by denying any partiality in its ecclesiastical disbursements, while they allowed a liability to the settlers of £57,000; and by ascribing many of the sufferings to which the colonists were exposed to the unwarrantable interference of Government with their operations. Compensation to the extent of 15,000 acres

has been awarded to resident proprietors, 8000 to absentees, and 40,000 additional will be required to meet the demands of the latter class.

The settlement of Nelson may be considered as extending along the southern shore of Cook's Straits, including Blind Bay and Cloudy Bay, with the exception of the mountain tracts separating the two. A portion of Massacre Bay is also attached to Nelson. The chief town and original settlement is at the southern extremity of Blind Bay.

Massacre Bay is the most westward of the three bays, and situated at the entrance of Cook's Straits: it is distant about 50 miles from Nelson by sea, and it is with much difficulty reached by land. Of the 45,000 acres of adjoining comparatively level land, not more than 25,000, partly inundated, are fit for agricultural purposes, and of that not more than half could be cultivated successfully. It is without an harbour of any consequence. Coal and lime are procurable in some abundance; plumbago of good quality exists, and great quantities of the finest timber are available.

Blind Bay contains very little available land, and that not in immediate connection with the harbour. Of the 60,000 or 70,000 acres, less than one half, as above stated, is suited to agricultural purposes, and that generally situated in detached strips between spurs of mountain ranges, and exposed to floods and high winds.

Cloudy Bay is situated at the eastern entrance of Cook's Straits. The adjacent land, including the Wake-

field downs, consists of about 200,000 acres, one half of which only is fit for agriculture. The Wairau plains, included in the above, consist of about 60,000 acres, extending from the bay, southward, to the distance of about 70 miles; with an average width, for the first 11 miles, of 8 or 10 miles, and of 2 or 3 for the remainder, with a gentle slope towards the sea of 20 feet to the mile. Four or 5 miles of the district, adjoining the coast, are swampy; the rest, 8 or 10, covered with fine grass, which continues to within 18 or 20 miles of the end, where it is stony and well wooded. Though much of this land is available for cattle and agriculture, it is principally as a sheep farming district that the grassy slopes, extending as far as the Kaikoras, which stretch across the island in latitude 42, will be valuable. The best communication between Nelson and the Wairau will probably be by following the river Matai, crossing the Pelorus, and entering the plains about 15 miles from the sea, making the distance between the two about 30 miles. The natives, in anticipation of the purchase of the intervening land, have allowed the new road to be constructed.

The harbour of Nelson is on the south-eastern coast of Blind Bay. A series of high bluff lands, about 150 feet in height, run along the eastern side of Blind Bay until within 10 or 12 miles of its southern extremity, when the coast recedes and is less elevated. From this point a bank of boulder stones continues, running southward, parallel to the high land and half a mile in its rear,

until within a few hundred yards of the shore. The space enclosed between this boulder-bank and the receded coast forms the harbour: at its north end is a flax swamp of about 2 miles, containing 200 acres of land, on a substratum of roots and decayed timber; below this is a mud flat extending for 5 miles, which is covered at high water, and the remaining mile and a half is the harbour. A vessel entering should keep well down until it arrived at the end of the boulder-bank, when it should take a course E. N. E. sailing between the extremity of the bank and the channel rocks, where the passage is about 400 yards wide. Vessels should enter on the flood tide, and leave it at, or just before, high water. The harbour is capable of holding vessels of from 500 to 600 tons, or drawing under 17 feet of water, with excellent holding ground, abundant water, and shelter. The depth of water in the channel of the entrance is from 15 to 18 feet, and on the bar, 2 miles outside, 22 feet at the springs, high water, and 9 feet at low water.

The longitude of the Magazine is 173 ,, 16 ,, 5 E
The latitude.............. ,, 41 ,, 15 ,, 30 S
The variation of the compass ,, 15 ,, 5 E

Port Underwood has been under consideration as likely to afford an harbour from which the produce of the Wairau Plains might be exported; but, as it consists only of a succession of coves insufficiently sheltered, and too distant from a port town, its other natural advanta-

ges would be of no avail: it is, moreover, 10 miles distant from the mouth of the Wairau river.

Queen Charlotte's Sound is admirably situated, being placed at right angles to the winds which prevail in the straits. It is 25 miles in length and 9 miles wide at the entrance, being a collection of the finest harbours in the world. The tides are regular, no hidden dangers are within, the soundings gradually deepen from 7 to 36 fathoms mid channel, and the shores are bold and well wooded. The only caution required in its navigation is, that the set of the flood tide is to the northern, of the ebb to the southern, head, of the mouth. There is sufficient land, amid the most enchanting scenery, in the vicinity for a port town. The communication between it and the Wairau by land is all but impracticable, as also with Port Underwood.

The Wairau river has a bar at its mouth, and it is only with a north-westerly wind that even small vessels can pass it and proceed to sea.

The climate of Nelson appears to be acknowledged as the finest in New Zealand. It is scarcely possible to say anything more decided in its favour; wind, rain, and heat appear to be so equably apportioned that the transitions of the seasons are scarcely perceptible. The indigenous vegetation is evergreen. Plants which are carefully treasured up in the more genial temperature of a window with a southern aspect in England during the winter months, not only live but blossom during the same period at Nelson in the open air. Is the inference an

unjust one, that many a fair sufferer who in our native country flits at the fall of the leaf to Madeira or the south of England to enjoy but a precarious and short-timed respite, would here find that she might not only live, but bloom in security?

The extreme heat of the hottest day........is 89
The mean average heat of the hottest month [is] 70
The extreme cold of the coldest day ......[is] 29

The mean average cold of the coldest month,, 50 The average number of fine sunny days are 229; of fair and cloudy, 46; of showery, 66; of continuous rain, 23. The average annual fall of rain is 34.59 inches, and the average number of frosty mornings 55. N. E. and S. W. are the prevalent fine weather winds during the greater part of the year. In summer the N. E. or sea breeze is fresh; in autumn the S. W. or land breeze is more prevalent; in spring the S. and S. E. The N. W. and westerly are the most rainy winds.

Nature appears to have decided that Nelson should not combine within herself all the advantages which a settler desires when he sighs for an Eden amid the lands of the Pacific. It stands preeminent for the deliciousness of its climate, which is represented "as most enjoyable, elevating the spirits and imparting an unaccountable charm to one's existence; enabling a person cheerfully to bear what in England would be deemed a degradation, and also to suffer sundry vexations arising from the bad state of the roads, floods, impertinence of servants, &c. with great equanimity." "Indeed," says

a fellow traveller, "I can only compare the depth of our winter to fine September weather in England." Thus blessed in its climate, Nelson may well be somewhat indifferent to the sneer which not seldom accompanies a reference to its scanty dimensions. The extent of cultivated ground, and the excellence of a 30 mile inland road, may justly claim some consideration when comparing it with the other settlements.

The price of farms fluctuates so greatly and so constantly, that much dependance cannot be placed upon any statements on the subject. Near the town, land unfenced and uncultivated averages from £4 to £12 an acre, and that which is more remote from 50s to £5 an acre; and even more, according to its nature. The rich alluvial spots are but few, the general run of the agricultural land being proof against anything but high farming.

The intercommunication among districts hemmed in by steep and rugged mountains will be, for many years at least, difficult, uncertain, and expensive. The grant by the provincial Council of £1500 for roads in the Blind Bay district, and a similar sum for the Waimeea and Wairau districts, will do much to facilitate this intercourse; and a further sum of £2000 for steam communication will, at least, enable the colonists to get their steam up and enjoy their home politics with a little more zest than hitherto. Nelson appears to have been selected as the final resting place of many highly intelligent individuals, men of good ability and experience, sober minded and of sound judgment, whose acquaintance

would be an acquisition in any country. Labour is high and to be obtained with difficulty; £30 to £50 is given with board and lodging for a single individual. Provisions are dear, as the following specimens will evidence: Bread 14d the 41b. loaf, meat 9d the lb., butter 16d the lb., wheat 9s to 10s the bushel, oats 8s to 9s, firewood 30s the cord. All this is good for the producer, but rather puzzling to the consumer. The average yield of an acre of wheat is from 25 to 30 bushels. Any spare cash may be invested at 10 per cent on good local security, or in sheep which would give a handsome return.

CHAPTER VI. OTAGO.

CHAPTER VI.

OTAGO.

A SCHEME for colonizing the southern portion of the middle island of New Zealand, embodying, as an essential feature, a provision for ecclesiastical and educational purposes, and the due adjustment between capital and labour, was projected by some lay members of the Free Church of Scotland in the year 1845. Scarce two years had elapsed from the time when 500 ministers of the Church and nearly two thirds of the entire population, animated by the purest motives and acting under the most thoughtful and deliberate consideration, withdrew from all connection with the State, rather than jeopardize one iota of that religious freedom they had inherited from their fathers, and thus voluntarily relinquished endowments whose estimated value was £100,000 a year. The difficulties attending their novel position were manfully met, and funds were abundantly forthcoming to provide stipends for the ejected ministers, and for the erection of Churches. An unusual and unforeseen difficulty presented itself in the refusal of sites for these Churches. Harassed by this additional impediment and

wearied by opposition, the eyes of many were turned towards New Zealand where the freedom they sought might be enjoyed. At this conjuncture the projectors of the scheme stepped forward and laid the basis of a plan which promised this enjoyment, while it offered facilities for ameliorating the condition of many of the respectable classes who were vainly struggling against overwhelming competition.

The regulations of May and November, 1847, and April, 1846, respecting the sale of land have been annulled, and new rules, dating from August, 1849, are substituted. The quantity of land purchased by the New Zealand Company, as Trustee for the Crown, amounted to 144,600 acres. The Association offered their land for sale at £2 the acre, or £120 10s for a property consisting of 50 acres of rural land, 10 acres of suburban land, and 1/4 acre of town land. The land might be purchased separately at an increased price, viz. £50 for 25 acres of rural land, £30 for 10 acres of suburban, and £12 for 1/4 acre of town land. The purchase to include coal and every other mineral granted by the Crown to the Company. If the Association should fail up to the 23rd of November, 1852, to dispose of 2000 properties, the remainder of the block was to revert to the Company. The sale of the land carried with it powers of pasturage over 255,400 acres, the remainder of the original block of 400,000; and also over an additional block of 600,000 acres. On the 5th of July, 1850, the Company surrendered its charter, and the Government, on the 10th of

the same month, undertook the performance of the engagements subsisting between the Association and the settlers as embodied in the terms of purchase and pasturage of the 1st of August, 1849.

The proceeds of the land sales were to be divided into 8 parts, and appropriated in the following manner: –

For ecclesiastical and educational purposes 1 or 13 1/2 per cent.
For emigration .............................. 3 or 37 1/2 per cent.
For civil purposes........................... 2 or 25 per cent.
For repayment of the purchase of the land 2 or 25 percent.

The ecclesiastical and educational fund was to provide assistance towards the stipends of ministers and the erection of Churches, manses, &c, and the future formation of a college.

The fund for emigration was to allow to the purchaser of an entire property the sum of £15, he being a chief cabin passenger; and the same sum to fore cabin and steerage passengers, if the Association should be satisfied that they intended to be hirers of labour; and £45 on each property, if not intending to hire labourers, but to be labourers themselves. It also was to provide £30 for the passage of labourers recommended by a purchaser as above and approved of by the Association.

The civil fund was to include a provision for surveys, roads, bridges, steam if practicable, and for the general expenses on founding and maintaining the settlement.

The repayment fund was to meet the claims of the New Zealand Company.

The block of land which was selected for the site of

the new colony is situated on the east coast of the middle island of New Zealand, extending from 45.40 to 46.20 south latitude, having a coast line of 50 or 60 miles and an average width of 10 miles. Its most northern point is the mouth of the Otago harbour; its most southern a headland called The Nuggets, about 3 miles south of the river Molyneux; and on the west, at the distance of 150 or 200 miles, runs the snowy range. There is a series of valleys running lengthways into each other and extending the whole length of the settlement. This central strip, having an average width of 4 1/2 miles, is flanked on either side by ranges of hills; the most western of these ranges rises to an elevation, near Dunedin, of 3000 feet, its crest forming in part the boundary of the colony, while the eastern, keeping close to the coast, preserves, with occasional conical peaks of 1000 feet, an elevation of 600 or 700, excepting at the Saddleback near the harbour, where it attains the height of 1600 feet. Both ranges throw spurs down towards the harbour and the valleys, and the western intersects the block near the harbour by a spur of an average height of 450 feet.

At about 5 miles from Dunedin the Taieri plains commence; they are 25 miles in length, containing about 40,000 acres of land, very slightly wooded, two thirds of which are at present available, the remainder being subject to inundations, but supposed to be reclaimable. The plain is intersected by a river of the same name, which flows into and by the Waihola Lake. Adjoining this lake, and at

its south-western extremity, the plains of Tokomoriro commence. This plain is 20 miles in length, and contains 14,000 acres of grass land, very moderately wooded, and separated from the coast by a hilly range of 7 miles; on its eastern side are undulating prairies available for cattle and sheep during nine months of the year, and on its northern is the Taieri pursuing its course to the sea.

The plain of the Molyneux, extending southerly from that of the Tokomoriro, contains from 10,000 to 20,000 acres of good grassy land, a portion of which is subject to inundation. On the adjoining hills are a series of the most beautiful slopes chiefly clothed with grass and moderately provided with wood.

The principal rivers running through the settlement are the Taieri, Tokomoriro, Kaitongata, Matou, Clutha or Molyneux, Koau, and the Puerua, which, generally, with the exception of the first mentioned, take a south-easterly course. The Molyneux, close to the northern boundary, is reported to be a fine deep river about a quarter of a mile broad, having six fathoms of water beyond the bar, and navigable for large boats to a distance of about 60 miles. Its banks are well -defined, studded with numerous groves of wood, and fringed with ti trees. Unfortunately it partakes of the common character of New Zealand rivers, having a bar at its entrance, and moreover is difficult of access from an invariable outward current and from the contraction of its mouth by a reef of rocks. The Taieri, which is about 9 miles from Dune-

din, is navigable for large boats to the distance of 12 miles from the coast, and is tolerably accessible, having ten feet of water at the bar. It is about 20 or 30 miles round by sea from Port Chalmers.

The existence of three lakes, the Waihola, Rakitoto, and Kaitongata are mentioned as likely to facilitate internal water communication. The Waihola, abutting on the Taieri river, is a fine sheet of water and of a moderate depth.

The Rakitoto, 12 miles distant from the former, and an equal distance from the mouth of the Molyneux, is 6 miles in length, and connected by the river Kaitongata, at a short distance, with the lake of that name, which is a mile in length. This river, after running some miles, joins the Molyneux not far from the coast.

The general geological character of the settlement appears to be a dark vegetable mould, of variable depth, resting upon a pale yellow clay, having trap stones from one hundred weight to twelve tons imbedded, and occasionally, in place of this, quartz considerably less in size. This clay in many places passes into a strong fine red earthy clay. The black earthy moulds prevail equally on the summit of the hills as in the adjoining valleys. Trap stones are found on the top of the hills also. An extensive free-stone quarry has been opened near Dunedin, and the Kaikari is represented to flow for a mile upon a bed of the same formation. Coal has been discovered in two distinct places within the Otago settlement, viz. at the Saddleback hill, 5 miles from Dunedin,

where it is overlaid to the thickness of 50 feet by quartz gravel, and at about 3 1/2 miles from the same place where it appears in massive cliffs overlaid in a similar manner; it is also found at the mouth of the Molyneux. The cliffs, which are 50 feet in height, bordering the coast in, this latter locality, consist of a coarse red sand, with small quartz stones, overlaying the coal to the height of 30 feet; at the base is a seam of coal from 15 to 20 feet thick, running into the sea, apparently of the same thickness, and visible in that direction to the distance of 200 yards. The seam rises inland at an inclination of 2 ° and it is seen again about 8 miles from the mouth of the Molyneux and close to its banks.

Specimens of this coal have been submitted to examination and were found to be a variety of lignite, slightly sulphurous, but without any bituminous matter, leaving, after ignition, a coat-like cinder.

Limestone is found in the Waihola district and is easily worked: at present it is only used for agricultural purposes.

The eastern range of hills, through which the Taieri, after touching the Waihola lake, has cut itself a channel, indicates the existence of clay slate in abundance, and indurated clay exists at low elevations near port Chalmers. A greenstone is found in the rivers more to the westward which will cut glass: it is exported by the natives to Manilla. The soil is represented to be 10 feet thick in the Taieri valley, but this can only be in a few favoured spots.

The Otago Harbour, 320 miles distant from Port Nicholson, is regarded as safe and possessing many advantages. It is open to the north, and as the prevailing wind is south-west, a vessel can stand clear out at once, while vessels inward bound can anchor, if necessary, about a quarter of a mile from the eastern, or Tairoa's Head, in smooth water of seven fathoms, with good holding ground. The entrance is narrow, not exceeding a quarter of a mile, and the current strong, the tide running at three miles an hour. The harbour is divided into two parts, an inner and outer, separated by two islands which run across it: the former harbour is about 6 miles in length, and the latter 7; the average breadth being about 2 miles; the two communicating by narrow channels. Vessels of 500 or 600 tons may anchor in five fathoms water close to the islands, while schooners can go all the way up the harbour. Large vessels will find a safe anchorage a mile inside the heads abreast of the village. The scenery is very beautiful from a succession of bold headlands, which rise from 300 to 2000 feet above the level of the sea, wooded to their very summits.

The weather at Otago is represented as very windy and changeable, though at the same time very healthy. The summer is dry and genial, refreshed by cooling breezes, with occasional showery and cloudy days; the winter is considered disagreeable, owing not to an excess of rain, but to a retentive subsoil and the changeableness of weather: the constant breezes however pu-

rify the air and render the climate invigorating. The frosty weather sets in earlier at Canterbury than at Otago, owing to its greater vicinity to the snowy range. The character of the vegetation will prove that, though Otago has its disadvantages, its climate may be fairly considered mild, and the cold southerly winds bracing and agreeable. It may be remarked, that Governor Grey, in his dispatch of the 16th of March, 1848, after personal examination, states, that, in his opinion (which is confirmatory of that expressed by Lieut. Col. Bunbury,) there is no locality more adapted than Otago for British settlers as regards the fertility of the soil, the facility of depasturing cattle and sheep, and in general advantages. Mr. Fox states that Otago has resources which could be more easily developed than those of any other part of New Zealand

As regards vegetation, the pastures may be regarded as rich, even in winter. Potatoes from one seed will, it is said, produce 55 to 58 tubers, several of them weighing upwards of a pound each. Vegetables in general thrive well and ripen satisfactorily from seed. The veronica labiata with very long and pendent racemes, elongated leaf, white flowers deeply tinged with blue, and the veronica decussata, with short racemes, grow by the sea and sides of the harbour. The fuchsia excorticata is a tree varying in height from 20 to 30 feet; the roba (Edwardsia microphylla) rises to the height of 20 or 30 feet; the white flowering clematis is splendid, and the flax most luxuriant, abounding mostly on dry ground, vary-

ing from 4 to 9 feet in height. Forget-me-not, daisies, violets, and buttercups recall home associations. English geraniums and fuchsias survive the winter in the open air and flower again without injury in the summer. The anise, of which cattle and sheep are particularly fond, abounds, especially about the Taieri: it is in appearance like parsley, and is a tonic. Generally speaking, there is a sufficiency of wood, though confined to particular localities which have already been secured.

JOURNAL.

IF after a long and wearisome journey, saturated with rain and besmeared with mud, you have ever arrived, at the close of the day, at a road-side inn and have been informed that it was necessary to pass on to the adjoining village for accommodation, you are in a position to realize the chilling effect on the feelings of the passengers of our good ship when, after peeping into every inlet and scrutinizing every bay along the eastern coast of New Zealand, from Foveaux's Straits to Tairoa's head, we at length arrived off Port Chalmers, but only to be repelled by a southerly gale, which bade us at our peril to force an entrance. After having so anxiously laboured to recognize what none of us had ever seen, but with which, by intuition, each appeared to be well acquainted, we could not be easily induced to give up the attempt, the more especially as an alluring signal on the headland with a whale-boat on the beach below assured us that

we had really reached oar destination. In vain we stood across the mouth of the bay, tacking and retacking, in the delusive hope that the pilot would take compassion on our impatience, but he was made of sterner stuff than we imagined; and as the alternative lay between standing out to sea or dropping anchor where we were, we chose the latter, and chained to the spot we, in our turn, bade defiance to the gale. Some occupied themselves during this pitilessly pouring day in reading the accounts of the harbour and its approaches as detailed by the first adventurers; others, in dissipating an impression which would arise that the climate could scarcely be "milder than that of the south of France." Sleep soon terminated these pursuits and fancies. On the following morning the sun arose in unclouded brilliancy, the storm was hushed, and soon the cheering sound passed from mouth to mouth that the pilot was actually on his way towards us. Scarcely had he reached the ship than we learned his intention of removing us from the dangerous locality we had unconsciously selected, in the vicinity of some sand banks, to a snug retreat below Tairoa's head, where we could repose in security until wind and water favoured. This was a damper, the first we had tasted, but of no lengthened duration, for while engaged in getting in the cable the wind veered round to the north, and the tide answering at the same time, we were gently wafted inwards.

In accordance with a law of elastic bodies, the elevation of our spirits equalled their depression on the pre-

ceding day; we were all on deck revelling in the lovely prospect and luxuriating in the genial breeze, when, as if to impress us with the fickleness of fortune, we found ourselves mildly detained by the heel. We had ventured at too early a period of the tide; but impatient of delay, the yards were alternately jerked right and left, until, after performing certain evolutions, similar to those adopted by a man in a violent passion removing a tight coat, we struggled ourselves free, and in a few minutes were in deep water.

Towards the south the bay appeared closed, at the distance of 7 miles, by two islands, dividing the upper from the lower harbour; on the right and left, hills, densely clothed with evergreens and trees of noble stature, approached the shores; while more remote, overlooking these, were others similarly wooded, lending enchantment to the view. All appeared deeply impressed with the beauteous scene, and the broken ejaculations and half uttered sentences indicated the reminiscence of many a lovely spot to memory dear. We dropped anchor within a few hundred yards of the port town in a somewhat sheltered bay. A few wooden houses, with a neat and unpretending little church on an elevated back ground, occupy nearly the whole available ground in Port Chalmers. We hastened to land, and though the grass was reeking wet we engaged in a scamper across the narrow gorge, on and below which the town is built. A short half hour sufficed for a minute inspection, when learning that a boat was about to leave for Dunedin, we

availed ourselves of the opportunity in preference to walking, which, in the language of the pilot, involved our sinking waistcoat deep in mud.

On passing between the islands and opening out the upper harbour the scenery had lost none of its loveliness. After rounding a headland the town became visible about 6 miles distant. We noticed on approaching the jetty that it was densely crowded with a fair proportion of the inhabitants, assembled, as we imagined, to give us a hearty welcome. We were buoyant with spirits, even to overflowing, and gave expression to our feelings in a joyous cheer; the distant hills reechoed the sound, but scarce a voice was heard on the jetty. Our enthusiasm was chilled, and an apprehension arose that some dire calamity had befallen the infant settlement. We were glad, however, to learn that the prevailing epidemic was confined in its operations chiefly to the sparse native population, and we were left to surmise that this apathy, or want of sympathy, might result from reaction, as the festivities consequent on the receipt of the new charter had just concluded.

The town of Dunedin is prettily situated at the foot of the inner harbour, and, considering its late formation, is very creditable to the industry of the inhabitants, numbering about 600, and occupying some 150 to 200 wooden houses. The Free Church appeared a primitive looking building with a double gable, built partly of stone and partly of brick, the belfry being detached. Architectural preeminence must be given to the Mechanics'

Institute, a more workmanlike erection, and just completed. When a few of the early morning hours, the most enjoyable portion of a summer's day, are given to the cultivation of the little garden plots, the whole place will assume a much more smiling aspect, especially when the hilly roads have contributed of their superfluity to their more humble neighbours the valleys, and the toiling teams will have recognized with gratitude the solution of some vastly unpleasant difficulties which they now have to encounter. The "Royal," a most commodious colonial inn, kept by a civil and obliging landlord, stands invitingly open, and we enter pell mell to partake of its hospitality and test its ale of home manufacture; not an indifferent article, as agreed to on all hands.

It was conjectured before our arrival that we should be detained three weeks at Otago, but the agent of the vessel engaged to give us our dismissal in ten days. I resolved, therefore, to start at once for the Molyneux district, which was represented as the finest part of the settlement, and visit in transitu the rich valleys of the Taieri and Tokomoriro; a fellow passenger was destined for the same direction, and we soon arranged our movements.

Our first difficulty was to obtain horses, for not one was to be hired at any price; however, the kindness of a gentleman, to whom my companion had been introduced, removed this by the loan of his own horse; an act of kindness foreshadowing what was to be our experience throughout the settlement. We were astir betimes, but

though summer, it was not till near 8 that any symptoms of animation appeared among the shopkeepers. Having resolved to start by 9, I hastened to the store and provided myself with a pair of shoes of substantial build, which were duly saturated with grease, being the real colonial blacking; a pair of corduroy trowsers, which from shrinking became eventually knee breeches, encased my lower extremities; a blue woollen shirt girthed round the waist by a brown leathern belt, adorned the upper stories; and a large straw hat surmounted the whole. The day was a facsimile of the preceding one, and our spirits participated in the similitude. Our course lay very nearly southerly, skirting the base of a low range of hills covered with scrub; on our left was a quantity of marshy land reclaimed by the formation of a sand bank which had stretched between two adjacent rocky headlands and thus barred out the sea, which formerly communicated in this direction with the harbour. In this neighbourhood Mr. Valpy lived and died. As the principal employer of labour in so young a colony where the capital is but limited, his loss must be severely felt, the more so as, though not connected with the Free Church, he bore honourable testimony to the efficiency and worth of the emigrants in his employ who had been sent out through the agency of the Association. Pursuing our way among low hills covered with flax, fern, and toot, we reached Green Island Bush, about 5 miles from Dunedin. The scenery much reminded my companion of the grazing lands in his native highland country, and

the association was doubtless heightened by a group of fine cherry-cheeked and merry looking children, whose smiles were enough to warm the heart of a misanthrope, and who, in utter contempt of such luxuries as shoes and stockings, were trudging to market with the produce of their dairy. The adjacent land is of limited extent, but fully occupied, affording abundance of timber for fuel, very fine grazing ground, and having a small rivulet running through it towards the sea. Crossing the Kaikari by a wooden bridge, and ascending rather a steep hill, the road leads over a low spur of the neighbouring range, from whence the fine valley of the Taieri may be seen to advantage. Immediately to the left, rising considerably above you, is Saddleback hill, rich in its coal treasures; below runs the valley, extending for many a long mile, dotted on both sides with several homesteads; while, beyond, and to the right, the view is closed by lofty ranges. On reaching the valley we passed a fine bush containing 70,000 acres of timber, which, with the land in its immediate neighbourhood, is all taken up. The policy of allotting the whole of this bush to so few sections must be regarded as extremely doubtful when it is borne in mind that, with the exception of another bush at the southern extremity of the valley, and one or two insignificant ones in the gulleys, the whole of the future population will be dependent on it for fencing and firewood. This partial allotment will, I fear, injuriously affect the sale of the remaining disposable land, until, at least, the latent coal deposits shall be more satisfactorily

developed. I could not afford time to visit the centre of the valley where the land is represented to be very rich, and my observations were therefore limited to the soil in the immediate vicinity of the road which, as it was occupied by a few agriculturists, I concluded was not regarded as far inferior to the other. Judging from sections exposed by trenching, and from the opinions of other people, there appeared to be about 9 to 12 inches of vegetable mould on a clayey subsoil. The neighbouring crops grown on unmanured land were of an ordinary stamp; the imported fruit trees and vegetables indicated, if not a first rate, at least a congenial climate; and the condition of the cattle and sheep bore ample testimony to the excellence of the pasture.

Erroneous impressions succeeded by severe disappointment often arise from the statements made respecting the fertility of the soil. In page 56 of the Otago Journal the ground is represented as yielding "from 60 to 70 bushels of wheat the acre;" again in page 66 we find 60 to 65 noted as the yield of the soil; and a similar return was affirmed by a Taieri farmer; but in the New Zealand Journal there is a report by practical agriculturists connected with the Association, giving the average crop at 31 bushels, just one half. Now as the Otago Journal is regarded as the Association's organ, and as an intending purchaser looks to it for information, the Association might therefore, in the next number, (the last appeared in 1851,) rectify these errors, which, like other

errors, naturally creep into the early reports of new settlements.

Shortly after leaving the vicinity of the occupied sections which are contiguous to the bush, the road ceases; and as the Taieri river, which flows through the centre of the valley, trends to the left, we were obliged to betake ourselves to the lower edges of the mountain spurs, while on our right was a vast extent of deep swamp thickly covered with flax, but impenetrable to cattle. The fall of the country is represented as admitting of the effectual drainage of this plain; if such be the case, and it be capable of satisfactory demonstration, the advantages presented would, in conjunction with the assured existence of serviceable coal, attract many a settler, who at present may have a doubt of the desirableness of the locality. The valley suddenly terminates by the river turning abruptly to the left. The native reserve, occupied by about a dozen families, is situated in this angle, and a few settlers have fixed their abodes on the banks of this stream just above the native village.

We had intended to reach the Molyneux in a couple of days, but as evening was closing in, the clouds louring, and the guide doubtful about the propriety of continuing our journey, we availed ourselves of the proffered hospitality of a gentleman to whom we had an introduction, and we were speedily most comfortably ensconced within a large chimney enjoying the cheerful blaze of a wood fire, and drying our dripping garments, for we had

another evidence of the changeableness of the climate in the frequency of the showers. The lady of the house, with a kindliness and cheerfulness only truly experienced in colonies, commenced preparing a meal for us, for which we evinced our gratitude in due course by attacking it with an appetite of 25 mile power. A few friends had arrived on their way with cattle for the Dunedin market, and in their society we richly enjoyed our evening, our tea, and our pipe, to say nothing of a modicum of brandy which, as chance would have it, had remained in the bottom of a discarded bottle. On looking around for a resting place for the night we were escorted into the neighbouring room, where unmistakeable symptoms appeared of its ordinary inhabitants being our host and hostess. We protested, almost angrily remonstrated, but in vain; the flow of generous self-denial was not to be obstructed, and we were obliged to retain possession, vowing in revenge that we would not sleep a wink, a vow which I, at least, religiously adhered to for at least five minutes, when I was past all human resolves. Early next morning, long before the town residents would even dream of rising, the rooms were thoroughly swept and dusted, and the breakfast well under weigh. A cheerful smile met us on our emerging from our cuckoo nest, and a homely meal was spread before us. All these multifarious duties were performed by the lady of the house, whose energy appeared equal to this daily drudgery, without for a moment impairing that kindliness of disposition which adds a charm to the most ordinary

action. Extracting from us a promise to call in as we repassed on our return, we proceeded on our journey, our host kindly volunteering to see us across the river and well on our way.

We continued on the banks of the river, which were about 70 yards wide; within a short distance, on our left, was a range of well wooded hills which appeared the sole attraction of the spot, though perhaps some of the lower spurs may afford pasture for sheep and cattle. Passing the native village, in which we saw some fine eels, 4 1/2 feet in length, hanging up to dry, we reached the bend of the river and crossed the stream in a boat, the horse swimming alongside. The. scenery on this spot where the Taieri enters the hills in its course to the sea is very attractive, and I hear that it improves towards the mouth. We were still obliged to keep close to the hill side, and even then we had to pass through numerous swamps which intervened between the spurs. After advancing a few miles we came in sight of the Waihola lake, and partook of the hospitality of a gentleman who resides on its banks, from whom and his lady we received every kind attention. The farm is situated among undulating slopes, having a considerable quantity of land under cultivation, with sufficient wood within a convenient distance. Great facilities are afforded for conveying produce to the Dunedin market, in vessels of ten tons, by the lake, river Taieri, and the sea; or by boat up the river as far as Scrogg's Creek, which is half way through the valley, and thence by dray. The chil-

dren of the family looked the picture of health, and one fine enthusiastic boy, educated for other pursuits, amused and interested me by the energy he displayed in the various operations of the farm. Should wheat fetch 9s. the bushel, and the elevation of the land not seriously affect the crops, I hope to hear of at least one successful farmer.

We continued our southerly course alongside the lake, which now confines itself within steep banks and terminates at the distance of 3 miles. Beyond its termination, and at the same distance on the opposite side of the valley, which here narrows very much, we reached the Horse-shoe bush, so called from its form; this has long since been occupied as a sheep station. A little beyond you obtain the first sight of the splendid Tokomoriro plains, which stretch out towards the Rangitoto and Kaitangata lakes. Descending from the high table land on which we had lately been travelling, we still continued, inclining to the left, on good firm soil. A few graziers are spread about the plain, principally in the immediate neighbourhood of the Tokomoriro river, which penetrates the hills to the left. We generally found these settlers a satisfied class, the Dunedin market yielding them 12d. to 13d. a pound for their butter, and a remunerating price for their cheese and surplus cattle; perhaps 35 per cent, to the labourer working his own capital. On entering the humble residence of one of these, we were regaled with most delicious bread and butter, and with a cup of excellent tea, the universal be-

verage; wine, beer, and spirits, being almost unknown in the interior. The cottage was the picture of neatness and cleanliness; perhaps the solitariness of the occupations, and the intervals between the settlers cast a dash of soberness into the contentment. Time may accustom the mind to this comparative solitude, or by an increase of emigration it may be removed, but the affirmative reply to the question "are you satisfied with the change you have made?" is generally in such a tone as indicates that the "pros and cons" are about balanced; or, that it requires time to recall the prospective advantages, which are numerous and real, before the emphatic yes can testify that present inconveniences are but as dust in the balance.

Leaving the Horse-shoe bush about 5 miles behind us, we arrived at dusk on the banks of the Tokomoriro, a small stream, only a few yards wide, flowing between deep banks; above us are the hills, covered with dense vegetation, the usual centre of attraction; and consequently, within a short distance, the settlers of the district have located themselves. We were cautioned to look out for the dray road, which would lead us to the ford, and we faithfully followed it, though its direction was towards the bush. A sudden turn, just before we became hesitatingly sceptical, brought us to the desired haven. Dismounting, we hunted for some tracks which might indicate the line of the ford, but none existed or were visible. Fully acquainted, from report, with the treacherous nature of these rivers, and espying a light on

the opposite bank, we gave the usual coo-oo-e, which was responded to without delay, and shortly after a living finger-post directed our movements.

A little incident here occurred, which caused us some anxiety for a time; the postal communication between the extremities of the settlement being extremely incomplete, and the delivery of letters being left either to the passing stranger or the outlying settler on his return from town, we volunteered our services on the present occasion. The packet was slung, with other small articles, to the saddle bow, and on ascending the opposite bank of the stream the impulse broke the binding and in an instant all were afloat. Darkness was now scarcely visible; but fortunately the outer covering was white, so depositing my watch on the bank, I returned to the ford and tremulously advanced in the direction it was taking downwards; every step deepened as I advanced, and the quickened motion indicated that the parcel was approaching the current, so spurring the shrinking horse, who began to doubt the prudence of the movement, I stooped and rescued the treasure ere it carried into oblivion the outpourings of many an anxious relative or friend.

The ever-ready welcome as usual awaited us, and though the good housekeeper was wearied with the occupations of the day, she cheerfully renewed her labours with a zeal which we at least were capable of appreciating, and which appreciation we made manifest to her extreme satisfaction, by devouring enormous quantities of

the most delectable bread and beef, and imbibing an endless succession of cups of excellent tea.

Leaving at an early hour, we gradually ascended a slope of the Kaitangata range for a mile; below us were the Tokomoriro plains stretching southerly towards the sea, and northerly, in the direction from which we had come; immediately on the left was the range above mentioned, and on our right the narrow gorge of the valley. The road here diverges, one path leads along the mountain ridge, crossing the valley at the further extremity; while the other takes the foot of the same range, and crosses at about 5 miles: we chose the latter. There appears to be a very considerable quantity of surface water in the centre of the valley, and even on the mountain slopes and intervals between the spurs, making it necessary to exercise caution before the numerous water holes and swamps have practically enforced it. This part of the valley appears about 6 miles broad and is entirely destitute of wood, not even is a twig to be seen, except occasionally the ti or cabbage tree stands as a solitary mourner over the desolation which has robbed the country of the forests of gigantic trees which once adorned it. The soil is excellent, the whole face of the country, including the tops of the hills, is covered with rich grasses, luxuriant flax, and anise, a foot and a half in height, in full flower, and emitting the most delicious fragrance. Crossing the valley, and ascending the undulating slopes on the opposite side, we came in sight of the Rangitoto lake, several miles distant.

Our horse had now become a serious impediment, for having once been engaged for more than half an hour in a laborious effort to get out of a bog, he obliged the rider to make several useless detours. After many varied, amusing, and amazing incidents, we at length reach a hill overlooking the Molyneux. I confess my first feeling was one of disappointment. I had desired my companion to precede me and send back the guide, while I allowed the horse to take his own way amidst an interminable number of complicated mountain spurs divided from each other by morasses. Arrived within sight of the river, a beacon fire was lighted to intimate the arrival of strangers and their desire to be ferried across, and onward they go. After a most circuitous route, involving the loss of a couple of hours, a south-wester, and a tether rope, and accoutred with a double macintosh, the flax bindings having given way in a place where the plant did not grow, I reach the spot where the fire was lighted, and which, having communicated itself to the grass, was raging furiously over a great extent of country, flaming, hissing, and crackling as it progressed. Below was the valley of the Molyneux with its noble river, and on the island just opposite, imbedded in a forest, the abode I sought; intervening, apparently, an impassable swamp, not a soul in sight, the horse exhausted, and its rider famished: pleasing incentives to reflection! I decided on awaiting the return of the guide, and tethering the horse by some flax, I buried myself in the anise and slept. At sunset I awoke, not a sound, save the crack-

ling fire, disturbed the stillness of the moment. I coo-oo-ed; the distant hills alone replied: in front, a devastating flame; below, a swamp impassable to four-footed beasts. A change of wind, and what? visions of American prairies in flying flames cross my mind; of the guide who struggled well nigh unto death for three days in these very morasses; of that image of a grey horse in the sky, ominously resembling my solitary friend, vanishing into thin air. Again I reflect, and again decide to wait yet half an hour, and should no guide then arrive, to set my horse free, and shouldering my pack to steer right across. A distant voice comes coo-oo-ing over the hills; turning round in the direction and kneeling so as to cut the horizon, the dim outline of a human figure stands developed. Mounting my horse and retracing my steps for 2 or 3 miles, we unite, and under the welcome escort I reach my destination by a road devoid in a great measure of that horse horror, a swamp. How richly did I enjoy the damper, pork, and tea, which, in anticipation, stood ready to be devoured, and then to get into position in that roomy chimney capable of holding eight at least, and deliberately to watch the wreaths of aromatic smoke from my cigar vanishing like my vision; this blotted out the past, filling the vacuum with unmistakeable pleasure; for disasters gone often afford, as compensation, the materials for a good laugh.

The valley of the Molyneux runs at nearly right angles to the Taieri and Tokomoriro, taking somewhat of a W. N. W. course. The river of the same name, some-

times called Clutha, flows through its centre from a distant point in the interior. About 8 miles from its mouth it is divided into two streams, that on the right being called the Koau, taking nearly a straight direction; while that on the left, the Matou, though in its general course parallel to the former, is extremely tortuous. The island is called the Inch Clutha; it is about 8 miles in length by 2 in average breadth; studded with forests of stately pines and totara, the intervals being filled with fine flax and well grown cabbage trees, the unerring indicators of rich land. The soil appeared to be a sandy loam about 8 feet in thickness. The island, as well as the neighbouring land, is occasionally flooded, but not to such an extent as seriously to injure the settlers, while the deposits enrich the soil, and are the means of gradually reclaiming the swamps. The whole of the island, with one or two solitary exceptions, is already occupied. Towards the south, at a distance of 8 miles, runs a range of hills, the Wairapa and Kaihiku, sloping gently towards the river, and in general well wooded. The land between the Inch Clutha and these ranges, much of which is swampy, is laid off in sections extending 16 miles from the coast, and containing nearly one half of the Otago block. Beyond these ranges the country preserves very much the same character, including fine sheep runs, and exhibiting occasional deficiency of timber for 8 or 10 miles. On the other side of the Mataura there is a beautiful level country, gently undulating to the south, interspersed with patches of bush, some of which cover 2000

or 3000 acres. The soil in this neighbourhood is good, the grass tall, and the flax strong. Again at Jacob's river, in the Foveaux's straits, the character of the country assumes an English aspect, well adapted for cattle, while, to the west, there are splendid sheep runs. This undulating land is said to extend 100 miles to the north.

But to return to the Molyneux. We were pretty nearly confined to the house on the day following our arrival, and indeed on the greater part of the succeeding Sunday. There being no clergyman in the neighbourhood, we met together and united in the beautiful service of the Church of England. The absence of a clergyman or minister, and a medical man, are the two most serious impediments to settling at the Molyneux; this want might be supplied for the time by a medical missionary, similar to those employed in China. At present, the clerical duties are performed by a clergyman who occasionally rides over from a distance of 30 miles, and the medical are left undone, unless the expense be incurred of sending for a doctor into Dunedin. There cannot be a question as to the Molyneux being the finest portion of the Otago block. Its remoteness from the chief town, 60 miles, and its indifferent harbour, are among its chief disadvantages. I have, however, no doubt that a good road may be made along the western ranges to within a few miles of the Tokomoriro river, beyond which to the Waihola lake there is not a single obstacle. In a few years the facilities it offers for water carriage will be taken advantage of, and by means of

the Kaitangata lagoon and river, and the Rangitoto lake, now shallow and useless, and a canal across the Tokomoriro plain, draining that splendid valley, a communication will be opened with the Waihola lake. Still more remote, when the hardy band of Molyneux settlers have increased, and their flocks and herds multiplied, a small tug steamer will render the river easily accessible, and diffuse along the whole length of the valley the coal which exists in rich abundance near the coast, and thus multiply indefinitely the advantages of the country which are scarcely available now from want of fuel.

The natural pastures of the Molyneux districts, its hills and valleys alike, are abundant, extensive, and of the richest description. The cattle are in most excellent condition, and the butter and cheese are proverbially fine. Here, as elsewhere, the wooded sections are being seized on, and with the same inevitable result. The climate, though changeable, is pleasant; but an abundance of wood is an absolute necessary, as a fire is desirable at all times, and always of an evening.

In one of my wanderings about the forest I noticed the remains of an open thatched shed, supported in front by poles while the lower end rested on the ground; it was situated in a picturesque spot, and somehow or other fixed my attention. On inquiring into its history, I was informed that in it a party of gentlemen, accustomed at home to comfort and luxury, had passed the first year in the bush. A little beyond were two sawyers, fine stout healthy-looking fellows, each earning 10s a day, living

in a facsimile. This was the first stage of civilization, and a rough one it was. The house we occupied was the next stage, a vast stride, but destined within the year to be supplanted. It is situated on the outskirts of the forest, with many a prostrate giant decaying hard by. The cleared space in front is appropriated as a flower and fruit garden, having its miniature lawn closely mown, while around and in every direction, standing in erect and haughty defiance, are numerous stumps too sturdy to be moved, and therefore designed to be concealed beneath the clematis and the honeysuckle. The well raised store, accessible by a ladder, evinces a prudent forethought against dogs and rats; the fowl yard, enclosed by supplejack, protects a goodly brood; and, chained beneath a monarch of the forest, the half-bred bulldog alternately defies and welcomes the coming stranger. The house, with its thatched roof, reminds one somewhat, in its general appearance, of an honest yeoman's at home. The side walls are composed of cabbage trees placed erect and close together, pierced in front by a central door, flanked by two windows, with a similar one opening to the rear. The interior is divided into two rooms about 8 feet high, and above are rough uncut rafters on which poles are placed, thereby affording additional sleeping accommodation. The walls are lined with totara bark, and, were it not for the earthen floor, the whole would present a snug appearance, especially when the fire is blazing up the spacious chimney, crackling beneath the chain-suspended iron pot, from

whence are issuing such savoury odours as pork and potatoes only can produce.

The sun shines so we must be off to work. I implore permission to share in the general labour, and speedily find myself delving with a will, digging trenches, dividing and planting potatoes, while close by are two of my companions attached by flax to a harrow made on the spot, superseding any call on the stock yard for cattle. A distant coo-oo-e intimates that dinner is served. We sit down with appetites unknown in the civilized abodes of the great metropolis, and devour a very respectable portion of a delicious half-wild pig, who, but for a rifle and a steady hand, would be still rooting up fern in the bush; plentiful draughts of rich milk satisfy our thirst, without the aid of sparkling champagne, crusty port, or mellow madeira; a pipe affords sufficient time for digestion, which is a simple process under such exercise. The afternoon is spent in firing immense heaps of branches and underwood which have been collected on a spot under clearage, massing the trunks for a future day's operation, and felling a tree or two just to keep the hand in. A row up the beautiful river, gun in hand, committing devastation on the flocks of wild and paradise ducks which swarm in this quarter, agreeably winds up the day. The evening, of course, is passed within the chimney, conversation flowing freely; or with book in hand, and pipe in mouth, you are guided peacefully to bed. A few days of such work are, from their novelty, somewhat pleasing; but there is a stern reality in the

compulsory occupation, day after day, with a never varying sameness, which the intending settler should endeavour to realize before he places oceans between him and what was his home. Idleness is unknown. If the weather be unpropitious and out-of-door work impracticable, there are always axes requiring to be new handled, ploughs to be repaired, tin pans to be resoldered, or even the rustic bench which adorns the entrance would be the better for a new leg. If a change of scene be necessary, assemble your neighbours with their dogs, drop down the stream, and wage war with the wild pigs, bringing home a sufficient supply, in the shape of hams and bacon, to last for many a long day.

One stage of architecture, the final one, still remains to be described. The wooden house now under manufacture promises to be a really comfortable abode, with its shingle or thatched roof, boarded floor, pannelled doors, and glazed windows, showing taste and defying weather, and combining to assure you that the experiment is successful, and that the road to competency, at least, is fairly cleared; the stock yard is enlarged, and inquiries are made concerning licences for depasturing sheep.

Hastening back to Dunedin, we kept the higher ridge of the western range, along which a dray might have been driven by a drunken driver in perfect security. The same hospitality we had before experienced attended us during our return, and I bade adieu to the settlers in the bush with feelings of sincere respect and kindliness.

There is one subject which I would willingly avoid, were it compatible with the wish to give my real impressions of this promising settlement: I refer to the dissensions which exist amongst the colonists, and which attracted public notice by the publication of a letter from a late settler (see New Zealand Journal, p. p. 561 and 587). Latterly they have assumed somewhat of a practical form, and I fear that they will not subside until the question of the class nature of the settlement receives a final decision.

The establishment of the colony was an experiment: the period of probation was five years, and the test of success the sale of 2000 properties containing 120,500 acres, to private individuals. Has that amount of land been so disposed of? or are there sufficient indications to induce the belief that it will be within a short time, so as to warrant an extension of the period of probation. If it has not, and no such evidence exist, then those who engaged in the experiment have no cause of complaint that others, who speculated on the probable failure, and invested their capital in the colony, are desirous that the land should no longer be locked up from public enterprize. If obstacles, which could not have been foreseen, but which are now disappearing, impeded the operation of the experiment, let the period of probation be extended and every facility given for the fair working of the machinery.

The colony is rich in materials; capital and labour judiciously applied would give it a railroad impetus, and in a

few years the visitor would doubtless remark, amongst other improvements, that an excellent coach road connecting the port and chief town had superseded the old hill road which ran through the forest; that the abundantly available facilities for an excellent road through the length of the colony had been taken advantage of; that numerous plantations were rapidly arising to supply the place of forests too profusely expended; that the fine valleys of the Taieri, Tokomoriro, and Molyneux, thoroughly drained, were fully occupied; the developed coal mines supplying the lack of fuel; while the excellent sheep runs on the adjoining high lands, no longer waste, were resounding with the lowing of cattle and the bleating of sheep.

CHAPTER VII. WELLINGTON.

CHAPTER VII.

WELLINGTON.

THE district of Wellington, including some large tracts of land belonging to it, and occupied by the natives, and others let to Europeans, may be regarded as comprised within that portion of the northern island which lies south of the 40th degree of latitude. Its area has been estimated at rather more than 3 1/2 millions of acres, of which 2 millions are represented as available for pasturage and agriculture. An additional block, the Ahuriri, has been lately added to the Wellington district; it is situated in the neighbourhood of Hawke's Bay, and contains 629,000 acres. Though the available average of the districts is represented at so high a figure, it is not to be supposed that the whole is at present obtainable. The fine valley of the Wairarapa, containing 28,000 acres, out of an area of 400,000, is only in part rented by Europeans, whilst large and most valuable portions about Otaki, Whanganui and other places on the coast are not purchaseable. The sections within any moderate distance of Wellington, which are considered of any present value, are, with the exception of the valley to the north, scattered in small

areas among the ramifications of the hills. On the banks of the Manawatu, Rangatiki, Turakina, Whangaihu, and Whanganui, are extensive and excellent tracts of country, fit for pasturage and agriculture, reaching from the lower slopes of the Ruahine and Tararua mountains to the sand hills which border Cook's Straits, within a distance of 3 or 4 miles. From these places cattle might be driven to supply the Wellington market, but all other exports must go by sea.

Extending southward from Tongariro, in the centre of the island, is a range of lofty hills called the Ruahine in its northern part, or as far as where the river Manawatu flows through it, and the Tararua on its continuation to the sea, which it reaches not far from Porirua harbour, by a course somewhat more westerly. Partly parallel with the northern extremity of the Tararua runs the Ramutaka range, dividing the valley of the Wairarapa from the south. All these hills are densely wooded, and many of them are of so precipitous a character as to be incapable of profitable cultivation, even if cleared. Nestling at the foot of the spurs of the last mentioned ranges is the beautiful harbour of Port Nicholson, of which Wellington is the port town. Approaching from the north-west through Cook's Straits, and passing Lyall's bay to the left, entering Port Nicholson by a safe and deep channel between Barrett's Reef and the eastern shore, and leaving Ward's and Soames' islands to the right, and Evan's bay to the left, you anchor in Lambton harbour.

The first appearance of the town of Wellington is pleasing; it seems to rise from the very waters in two or three terraces, encircling the bay for about 4 miles. Immediately behind are high hills, once covered to their summits with wood, but now looking somewhat bare. The lower line of houses, chiefly wooden, run within a few feet of high-water mark, and but a few inches above it the road occupying the intervening space. Above, at the height of 100 or 200 feet, is another line following the slope of the hills. Some of the public buildings are not devoid of architectural pretensions, such as the Hospital and Church of England School. A building under erection for the Union Bank looks promising, but an Hotel near the centre of the town bears the palm from all competitors. The Mechanics' Institute is roomy, convenient, and, possesses a respectable library; the church accommodation for every form of belief is abundant, and medical practitioners by no means deficient in number. There are also two or three good hotels and boarding-houses, and the stranger will have no difficulty in providing himself with most of the ordinary comforts of life. The climate is doubtless good, though the south-easters are somewhat turbulent, and the north-westers somewhat suffocating, from the dust they knock up.

At the distance of about 36 miles from Wellington, following the course of the Hutt, and crossing the intervening hills, is the Wairarapa valley. It extends northwards from Palliser bay, a distance of 60 miles, with a varying breadth of 8 miles, and is watered by the Rua-

mahanga, a river which flows into the Wairarapa lake. Advancing from the south, we find that only one third of the land on the eastern side of the river, to the distance of 10 or 12 miles, is available for grazing, the remainder, bordering the lake, being swampy, but affording a valuable resource in dry seasons. More in advance, the land on both sides, with occasional extensive swamps in the lower parts, is good; that on the eastern being suitable for pastoral purposes, and that on the western for agricultural. The soil is excellent, and timber becomes more abundant to the northward. The whole valley is said to consist of about 500,000 acres, of which 100,000 are covered with useful timber, 200,000 with grasses and partially swampy, 50,000 are occupied by two shallow lakes, and a portion of the remainder, on the slopes of the hills, affords excellent pasturage. The river, with its well wooded banks, is about 150 yards wide, and is sufficiently deep for vessels of 50 tons through the lakes; and from thence, for whale boats to a distance of 20 or 30 miles. It is only in winter that the accumulated waters of the river, rising to the height of 16 feet, and bursting the bar in front of the lake, open a communication with the sea.

I took an early opportunity of visiting the valley of the Hutt, of which I have heard and read so much, and the description of whose alluvial deposits had induced the belief that a rich harvest would be yielded to the agriculturist, while the vicinity of Wellington would offer considerable facilities for the annual profitable clearance

of the bursting garners. The day was extremely propitious, a gentle south-easter tempering the summer heat. The road lay along the western shore of the bay for about 5 miles within reach of the dashing spray on the right, while richly wooded heights arose immediately on the left. In some places the road had been scarped oat of the solid rock at considerable expense, and in others it had been built on an embankment projecting over the beach. At somewhat less than a quarter of a mile we crossed the Kaiwarawara rivulet by a ford, the remnant of a wooden bridge not justifying a passage by it on horseback. Two other streams of lesser magnitude were crossed before we reached Pitonee, at the northwestern angle of the bay. This was the first native village of any magnitude I had seen, and by no means excited my admiration of native skill and taste. It is placed on a shingly beach in the neighbourhood of marshy swamps, and its rude and primitive huts encircled by lofty rails of every form and size, gave it the appearance of desolation itself. It had, however, a charm, being the residence of E. Puni, one of the two chiefs who negotiated the sale of the valley of the Hutt to the New Zealand company, and who is highly esteemed for his sterling integrity and for the efficient assistance he rendered during the late war. Following the main road, a most excellent one by the bye, which passes through some native plantations of potatoes and maize, we reached the river Hutt at a spot where a substantial wooden bridge, in excellent repair, has been thrown across. On the left

bank is a stockade which was occupied during the war by our troops, and immediately in front is the pretty village of the Hutt. The banks of the river exhibited a rich soil 7 or 8 feet deep, a character in which, doubtless, the whole of the lower valley participates. The valley itself may be regarded as divided into two parts, the Upper and Lower Hutt: the latter resembles a triangle, the base of which rests upon the northern end of the bay, the apex being a narrow gorge where the hills close in, through which the river passes and divides itself into 4 streams, the principal one retaining the name and flowing close by the western hills. The whole of the valley is densely wooded, as are also the adjoining heights; a strip of land of about 2 miles in depth, contiguous to the bay, alone being destitute of vegetation. The neighbourhood of the village presented a fair quantity of cleared ground, valued, from the richness of its soil and the expenses incurred in its cultivation, at not less than £50 or £60 per acre. It is generally leased in small quantities for short terms, but without any purchasing clause; a condition which retards the prosperity of the settlement. The crops were pretty heavy, and the meadow lands afforded excellent pasturage. Clover appeared luxuriant in every direction, and a particularly fine hawthorn hedge, a kind of proof specimen, quite refreshed the eye with its genuine English look. The European fruit trees and vegetables would have done credit to any soil and culture; flowers of every hue and of every clime, vied with each other in health and beauty, present-

ing a lovely image of the capabilities of the land and the mildness of the climate. A considerable way up, and on both sides of the excellent and well bridged road, the wood-cutter's axe was heard, while clearing and fencing were rapidly progressing.

There was evidently an appearance of comfort in this little English village which was very cheering, bringing many a home scene vividly to mind; the little Church and adjoining school, with their associations, forming no indifferent feature in the picture.

The valley is subject to periodical floods, which enrich the land without injuring the standing crops, owing, perhaps, to the extent of country over which the inundation extends; still, as these overflowings deposit in the garden and meadow many a gigantic tree which in its progress quietly prostrates a fence or a bridge, the advantages and disadvantages may be regarded as nearly balanced.

In the Upper part of this valley land may be obtained at £10 an acre uncleared, the purchaser taking the steep hill side with its adjoining valley portions. Of the 90 sections, containing 90,000 acres into which the Lower Hutt is divided, 88 have been selected, and from the holders of these sections purchases may be effected. Passing through the gorge and continuing on the left bank of the river, the road skirts the hill at some height above the stream, until, at the distance of about a mile, it leads into the Upper Hutt. This valley, though equally densely wooded, and containing some extremely fine portions, is

much inferior to the Lower Hutt in the richness of its soil. The general character of the trees and the stony nature of the land instantly convince one of the difference. Of the 62 sections, containing 6200 acres, 42 have been chosen. There are two other small valleys containing 3800 and 1400 acres, chiefly selected. The most valuable portions of the Upper Hutt, which are already occupied, consist of a silted up inland lake capable of producing almost anything, while the immediately adjoining land is scarcely worth the clearing.

The road to the Wairarapa plains runs through these valleys, stretching over the spurs of the Ramutaka range, and is practicable for wheel carts for about 20 miles from Petonee.

I was desirous of seeing the plains, but my time being limited, and having heard much in favour of New Plymouth and the country intervening between it and Wellington, and moreover being indisposed to take to the water again, as I should have to do in visiting Nelson or Canterbury, I resolved to employ a month or so in the Wellington and New Plymouth districts. Some friends were about to leave for Whanganui, and having been joined by a congenial companion, the day was fixed and all necessary preparations made for starting on the morrow. Resolved to make an early move, P. and I decided upon keeping watch during the night. I relieved him at 1 a. m. and by 4 we had roused up our whole party, which consisted of a native chief, Mr. and Mrs. B., S. P. and self. Our horses, which as is usual had been

turned out to graze, were speedily caught, and by 6 we were fairly under weigh. Fresh from seaboard, we were not in very excellent walking trim, but we doubted not that with the assistance of the four horses we should be able to get through the 30 miles which was to be our day's journey. A difficulty presented itself on starting: the lady and one of the gentlemen had never been on horseback; but courage supplied the place of experience, and proceeding with care, the obstacle only afforded us amusement. One of our horses, named "Satan," had been borrowed from Ranghiatea for the use of B. who was about to join one of the Church missions, and though the beast was none of the quietest and the rider inexperienced, Satan was properly mastered.

Our route lay along the Pitonee road as far as the Kaiwarawara, which we forded, and turning to the left, ascended the hills to the northward. After proceeding a short distance we arrived at a spot which afforded a very pretty view of the harbour, while in a glen below us was a mill in full work on the border of a small lake. Passing through the Kenepuru valley, in which were several settlers making war upon the forest, we reached the southern termination of Porirua harbour, where, though we had advanced only 12 miles, we found it absolutely necessary to break our fast. A village belonging to our native friend being within a short distance, I was invited to accompany him to it. It was a sad divergence, for scarcely an inhabitant was to be seen, but from every hut came sounds of lamentation and woe: the influenza

had made its appearance among them and indiscriminately prostrated young and old. There was another sight which tended to depress one's spirit, a creek divided the members of the English Church from the Wesleyans. I had heard that religious differences prevailed to some serious extent, and had read of a native chief having expressed an opinion that "Heathenism with love is better than Christianity without it;" but I did not believe it possible that these differences should lead to such defined separation. – Disciples of one Master, sanctified by one Spirit, and partakers of the same inheritance, there are surely bonds of union enough to enable them to dwell together in peace.

Resuming our journey, we proceeded along the western shore of the Porirua harbour, following its numerous indentations, and occasionally fording its small bays, until we reached Pahatanui, at the northern end, at the distance of 5 or 6 miles. Unfortunately there is a bar at the entrance of the harbour, and a swift tide race where the channel is contracted to rather more than 100 yards, so that the harbour is only available to vessels of very light burthen. We now entered upon the bush at a spot where there is a considerable amount of natural beauty. The road continued along the valley for some miles, when it gradually ascended a range of hills, along which an excellent military communication has been made by scarping the rock at a very great expense. The scenery becomes very beautiful, and in parts reminded me of the valley of Dolgelly; the hill sides

being, however, clothed with the finest trees of a deep green foliage. Very little of the land was under cultivation, though every level spot was appropriated.

A rainy afternoon succeeded a lovely morning, and to confine our enjoyment within reasonable bounds, we were saturated with rain. Nothing however could damp our ardour, so what with chatting, laughing, and grumbling, we wended on our way until we stood on the loftiest part of the range. Below lay a wide expanse of mist; gazing on the scene in wonderment, the mist gradually cleared away and presented to our sight a most enchanting view. Far, far beneath, as if at our feet, was the ocean in lakelike stillness; across the straits, in calm repose, the hills bounding Queen Charlotte's Sound; Kapiti, or as we thirsty souls called it, "Cup of Tea," lay nestling mid ocean on our right; while on the beach, 2000 or 3000 feet of deep descent intervening, was the promised land rejoicing in the euphonious name of "Scotch Jock's." Casting around one comprehensive glance, and regretting that the law of hunger made us gravitate with such intensity, we moved onwards. On reaching the foot of the hill we threw one long lingering look behind at the lofty gorge through which we had come, and following a noble spur from its junction at the top until it laved its feet in the briny waters we confessed that we had not gazed on many more beauteous scenes. Our hostel was certainly prettier in the dim distance, but we had sufficed of beauty for the time, and hastened to enter. The landlord was ill of the "flue," so this Sydney-imported

influenza is poetically called, but we were most assiduously attended by a substitute, ably backed by two broad massive-looking Maori women, and by fleas, musquitoes, and sand-flies in abundance. Wet, weary, and well nigh disheartened, we partook of what was ill-designated a supper, and retired to bed – no, but to rest; not even that, but to the musquitoes and their coadjutors. In justice I must premise that the veritable inn had been burnt down, and that we were within the original stable. If we had not fared well, there was fare enough for our nimble attendants, and right richly did they enjoy it. To Mr. and Mrs. B. a most beautiful locality was assigned, the tap-room, screened from the public by a cloth suspended at their suggestion. P. entered a crib accompanied by S., from whence were emitted, during the night, sounds of fearful torture. Embalmed on a high table-land, from whence the doubtful pork and the debris from our supper had just been removed, lay W., a gentleman who had overtaken us, between whose bones and the red pine planks a constant warfare was carried on; while below, like a warrior taking his rest on a mattrass, the natural home of many a generation of fleas, was the possessor of the only approximation to a four-post bedstead. We retired in the hope of a visit from nature's sweet restorer, but she was anticipated by other less welcome company. No need of any watching in order to arise early; we were about betimes, and finding that our breakfast would be destitute of eggs and milk, and be but a reprint of the dinner, we resolved on

instant progression. We were unfortunately just behind a flight of locusts who had cleared away all the provisions of the little settlement, so that our sorry entertainment was to be ascribed to this cause, the fire, and the "flue," as I had subsequently good reason to know.

Our native friend, T., to whom we were indebted for many kindnesses, had ridden on to Otaki, a distance of 20 miles, which was to be our day's journey, and to our surprise was back again early in the morning bringing with him a dog cart, which one of the missionaries had very kindly lent for the occasion. The Tarurua range of hills, which abuts on the sea at this spot, trends somewhat more northerly than the coast line, leaving a fine shingly beach, flanked by sand hills, along which we proceeded, crossing several small streams, fordable at all times, until at length we stood on the banks of the Waikanae, about 8 miles from the village of Paripari, where we had passed the night. The river being fordable at half tide, and our movements having been arranged so as to pass it at that time, we experienced no delay, and the pedestrians but little inconvenience. The village of Waikanae is situated along the sand hills on the right bank of the river, which, united to the Waimea, flows into the sea immediately opposite to, and within a few miles of, Kapiti. The village is now almost deserted, the population having removed to Otaki. The land in the neighbourhood appears to be rich, but subject, one would imagine, to be continually flooded. We diverged to inspect the Church and the carved posts of the vil-

lage: the former had been a fine wooden building, substantial, and roomy, and did much credit to all concerned in its erection; of the latter, standing in close contiguity to the Church, little can be said, they are stamped with the character of savage life, and exhibited but little taste and skill.

The stranger unacquainted with the previous state of the Maori mind, might infer from these statues, revolting as they are, that idolatry had once prevailed in the land; but dark and obscure as the aboriginal notions of the Deity were, He was never materialized, nor did the Maori bow down his head to graven images. I have seen similar representations, modernized of course, in the houses of Christian chiefs, but I could get no account of the fanciful forms they assumed. Their canoes and war instruments were all similarly carved, and some of them exhibited considerable taste and manual skill. One of the representations above referred to was multiplied around the room and appeared also on the outer posts; it exhibited a dwarfish man with well bent arms supporting the abdomen with both hands, illustrating, as it struck us just refreshed by a hearty meal, the hospitality which characterized the residence.

The combined influence of the sea breeze and early rising made us very anxious to learn something about breakfast. There was a small inn where we could have been satisfied, but our native friend had arranged otherwise. On, on we sped, revelling in anticipation of the coming meal: at length worn out by the effects of a

terribly hot sun, we entered the sandy defiles and learned with delight that we had reached the land of hope. In a few minutes a hut, which, judging from its rude simplicity, was one of the earliest efforts of human ingenuity, appeared in sight, and grouped around were some half a dozen slaves. This was one of T. Rauperaha's eeling stations, and suspended in mid air, on every side, were thousands of eels which had once wriggled their happy way in a neighbouring murmuring brook. Our repast was ready, and so were we, and so were the sand flies. On a sloping hillock of sand, forming but a doubtful seat, with a few twisted branches of a stunted shrub as a canopy, we reposed. Before us were placed two flax kits or baskets in representation of a table-cloth, a few shells brought from the beach hard by, being dame nature's own cups, a broken iron pot answering for both kettle, and teapot, a flax stalk for a spoon, and flax for plates, our fingers supplying the place of knives and forks. At the head of this rural retreat, in majestic dignity, fully conscious of the important post she was occupying, sat Mrs. B.; on her left was P. with an enormous case knife in an attitude of intended onslaught, S. keenly watching the eels and koomeras, whose odour regaled him as they approached; and on her right, among others, was myself, deeply involved in thought in order to discover a method by which to perform the mysterious operation of dismembering and serving out these luxuries. Grazing in a neighbouring glen, peerless among his fellows, was Satan. We formed a pretty and a hungry

group. Right well we did our duty, and right well did the sand flies do their's: in a few minutes we had licked our fingers clean, and slaked our thirst from a curious instrument of a gourd-like form with a hole so ingeniously placed that considerable dexterity was needed to guide the bubbling stream down the proper channel. If we wanted some few of the natural adjuncts of breakfast, we were well provided with the necessaries. Immolating a few hundred sand flies, and interchanging with our sable attendants a few sonorous tenakoes (farewells), we bade adieu to this oasis in the desert.

Resuming our journey along the beach, we reached the neighbourhood of Otaki shortly after midday, and entering among the sand hills we forded the river a mile or so from its mouth. There is a ferry lower down, but even there I believe the river may be forded at low water. Our party now assumed somewhat of a processional form. At our head was T. himself, bursting with energy, shouting to his countrymen to welcome us with the usual tangi, reproaching them with their indifference to our illustrious arrival, but eliciting only a faint moan or whine, terminating with an apology for its inefficiency arising from the effects of the prevailing epidemic. Close around our noble chief we moved along in glorious disarray; the foals capering at their mother's heels and by a kind of inquisitive neigh endeavouring to ascertain the cause of this unusual commotion; in the outer circle were numerous youngsters attracted by the brilliant cavalcade, and beyond them, on bare-backed horses, cara-

coling in all the pride of youth, rode some yeomen's sons wondering at the scene. Our advance after crossing the river was through a low sandy plain for about a mile, opening out into an extensive flat country well wooded and in most parts of a very rich character. We received a cordial welcome from Mrs. T. R. who, during our two days' residence under her hospitable roof, left no means untried to welcome her husband's friends.

The lately deserted village of Waikanae, though much had been done in it since the first missionary resided there, spoke in language not to be mistaken in favour of Otaki. Here I see the embryo of a thriving English village; a noble Church, admirable school room, neat and commodious houses, well proportioned streets at right angles, several acres of wheat ripening in the sun, one mill in full operation and another very nearly finished, to say nothing of the numerous garden enclosures, the many head of cattle and mares roaming on the common: such evidence disarms an opponent without a contest.

I took an early opportunity of visiting the Church, which I much admired for its elegant simplicity. Considerable judgment has been shewn in its erection, and at no inconsiderable cost. It is in the form of a cross, 90 feet by 40, with 4 lanceolate windows at the east end and 6 on either side; each window is flanked by upright totara planks 3 1/2 feet in width, 9 inches thick, the end being buried 6 feet underground. Between each two planks is an interval tastefully fitted up with reeds and

flax plaiting. The roof is supported by 3 noble posts, straight as a mast, 60 feet in height and 2 in diameter, which run down the centre of the Church. The roof itself is formed of the same materials as the walls, but the planks, which in both cases are dyed a maroon colour, have their heaviness somewhat relieved by white painted devices. A small cross at one end and a belfry at the other surmount the roof. The Church is surrounded by a remarkably well-kept meadow, and on an adjoining height are several tombstones neatly enclosed; somewhat lower down, surrounded by a wooden railing, is a tombstone of blue slate with a simple record that below are the remains of Te Rauperaha, who died in 1849: bending o'er the mound, in full flower, was a lovely fuchsia, and around were white clover and strawberries. The Church is open daily for morning and evening service, and pretty well attended. On the day following, being Sunday, we were present at the Maori service, both in the morning and evening, and were much pleased at the attention which generally prevailed and the decorum which was observed. The chanting was in excellent time, and though very peculiar in its character was not unpleasing: a leader commences each line in a low tone, the congregation taking up the tune with increasing depth of intonation, until it is brought to somewhat an abrupt termination by a full expiration. The language appeared sonorous and pleasing. I should imagine that about 200 or 300 were present on each of these occasions.

Our preparations for moving having, been completed, on Monday we paid a visit to a Roman Catholic village separated from Otaki by a creek with bridge and gate. We could almost wish that the stream might be diverted so as to embrace the whole population in one united and earnest pursuit of truth. We found a larger amount of wheat under cultivation than at Otaki, and a capital water-mill in full work. The chapel was a rude hut not capable of holding above a couple of dozen, and the village itself could not be discovered. The resident priest I heard very well spoken of, and certainly the state of the mill and everything connected with it evidenced the influence of a master mind. The Otaki mill, now nearly finished, is somewhat larger, and equally creditable to all concerned. As we were desirous of being at Whanganui by Christmas day, we were obliged to restrict our stay at Otaki to two days.

On Tuesday morning we were again on the move, the cart being very kindly placed at our disposal as far as the Manawatu river: a very skittish mare with side-saddle fell to my lot, and a ride of 17 miles without stirrups in a canter abundantly satisfied me of the impropriety of that mode of progression. We reached the beach by passing the Roman Catholic village to our right, and then inclining to the left, meandering among sand hills for about a mile. An advance of 4 or 5 miles brought us to the Ohau, which we forded at low water. Beyond the narrow escape from a serious accident which was likely to result from the occupants of the cart making a

somerset in a backward direction in crossing a narrow dip, we reached the river Manawatu, a distance of about 16 miles from the Ohau, shortly after noon. We crossed in the canoe, the horses swimming alongside. While the horses were swimming across we indulged ourselves in criticising the object of the various facial scarifications which we had met with in our excursion. We have seen some chiefs so entirely carved about the head as scarcely to have one spot unengraved, while we have seen others without a scratch; the same difference appearing in cases where the people were in the most menial employment. In some the tattoe appears as if the impression had been made by merely pricking the surface; in others, one would imagine that a portion of the flesh had actually been removed. In the case of women, the marking is generally confined to the lower lip, which is thereby rendered of a deep neutral tint colour. The different kind of tattoe has been regarded as a distinction of tribes, an armorial bearing, or a sign manual; but the question is apparently involved in considerable mystery. As far as I could judge, it appeared to be indicative of nothing beyond the peculiar fancy of the person so decorated, or disfigured. The rising generation do not submit to the mutilating process.

This is a fine stream, and were it not for the bar at its entrance would be of very great advantage to the neighbouring country. About 50,000 acres have been selected out of a large amount of land which has been surveyed and is available. Portions of it are very rich and well

adapted for agriculture, which we were desirous of personally inspecting, but they were too far off our route. The heat was very oppressive, and we ourselves sorely beset with hunger.

Our ferry man, a gigantic savage, informed us, that within a mile, by following the course of the river, we should find a house of accommodation. After due consultation we resolved to seek it, and rest and refresh ourselves. By some of those contretemps which occasionally mar the best devised plans, we missed the house, which fact we learned after making a detour of 3 miles and reaching the house of a recent settler. He kindly undertook to give our jaded horses a feed, while his good lady reinvigorated ourselves. It was near 3 o'clock, and we had to retrace our steps through sand hills, and worse still, on regaining the beach to get through 13 miles before we arrived at the river Rangitiki, on the right bank of which was an inn. We were advised to defer the prosecution of our journey, and accommodation was kindly pressed on us; but an advance was decided on. The sand hills which we endeavoured to cross diagonally, under the guidance of a Maori, tried us terribly, but in due course, the sun having long since bade us good night, we arrived on the banks of the river.

The night was pitchy dark, across we saw lights; we coo-eed vociferously, but the wind opposing, we met with no response. A dark rising cloud portended rain, so hastily consulting, we decided upon encamping for the night, or, colonially speaking, "bushing" it. The ever-

present flax soon furnished us with tethering ropes, and we were not long before a blanket provided a snug retreat for Mrs. B. Not a tree was nigh, but a quantity of drift wood being at hand, and abundance of tall grass and flax, we doubted not that we should do well. Ere long the storm burst upon us in all its fury; we hastened to light our goodly pile, but the matches had got drenched on the road and the tinder-box was without tinder, so we took refuge under a Macintosh blanket, which, in addition to extending its fostering care over us, had to protect the saddles and carpet-bags. Wet up to the thighs, I occasionally snatched a few minutes' sleep, emerging now and then to assure myself that the horses had not broken away. Our Maori guide, instead of assisting us with his colonial experience in our novel and unpleasant position, hastened to convey himself away and to form a comfortable tent from the twisted flax and toi-toi. No pipe cheered the solitary hours, but we repined not. At 3, P. and I rose and hastened to the ferry, which was scarcely a mile distant, we coo-oo-ed with all the energy that remained in us, but a solitary cock alone responded to our appeal. Drooping, dripping, and desponding, we returned to our encampment. Happily, at this crisis, two Maoris, whom we had met on the preceding day, arrived, and in answer to our inquiry if they could procure a light, instantly produced a properly furnished tinder-box, and kindled at once our hopes and the fire. Encircling the blazing pile, our disasters were forgotten, and we managed to extract many a hearty laugh

from the narration of our individual misfortunes. An homoeopathic portion of bread and cheese revived and cheered us; our tent was struck, our horses saddled, and by sunrise we were standing as humble petitioners on the banks of the Rangatiki. With redoubled vigour coo-ee followed coo-ee, but in vain. Under the artistic hands of one of our new comrades a horn emerged from a flax bush and a merry blast poured across the water, but the silence remained undisturbed. Rapidly divesting himself of his dress, the younger of the two dashed into the stream and swam half across, but the coldness of the water, or some unpropitious circumstance, induced hesitation, and finally a return. Again a blazing fire rejoiced us, and we resolved to wait patiently until our opposite friends had satiated of sleep. We had not long to wait: the smoke and flame did more for us than our united efforts, and within an hour we were seated in a snug little room enjoying a most palatable breakfast.

We determined upon not proceeding any further that day but on taking a ride into the district. On hearing our intentions, a gentleman who had ridden in from the neighbourhood kindly offered to escort us, and availing ourselves of his services, we were soon in our saddles, and by the afternoon had made a circuit of 20 miles.

If a colonist is deprived of many of the comforts of the old country, he is constantly enjoying and reciprocating those friendly offices, the genuine offspring of a kindly heart, which can scarcely emerge into existence in the frigid atmosphere of more advanced society. As on our

return we had a better opportunity of seeing this part of the country, I will restrict myself to the grateful acknowledgement of the kindness which we experienced from this gentleman and his good lady.

The morning dawned in an unpropitious manner, hut the Rev. Mr. T. having sent a guide and horses for our companions, we were early on the move. Traversing the sand hills for a mile we rejoined the beach, advanced 17 miles, and stood on the banks of the Turakina. Ascertaining that it was fordable at low water, though considered dangerous from the number of its quicksands and the frequency with which they shift, we crossed it, the water reaching to the horses' girths. Passing among sand hills for 3 miles, we gained the banks of the Whangaehu, also fordable at low water, and we were ferried across, our horses accompanying us. This is a pretty river, about 200 yards broad, with well defined banks. On, on we went, having a wholesome dread of bushing it, until our arrangements were more complete; and shortly after sunset, on topping the last of a series of sand hills, among which we had been meandering for half an hour, we came in sight of the river Whanganui, the native village and mission being on the left bank about a mile across a swampy valley which was immediately below us. Opposite to the village on the right bank, among sand hills, is the town of Petre. Rapidly descending, and taking somewhat of a circuitous route close to the lower spurs of the hills, we regretfully parted with our estimable and amiable companions at the

mission house; and leaving our horses at a stable on the left bank, we were soon ferried across, and made very comfortable in an excellent hotel kept by a Mr. Green.

We had made arrangements to visit on the following day the high table land on the mission side of the river, under the escort of a son of Mr. T.'s. By 10 we were in our saddles and ready to proceed. Young T. was mounted upon "Gazelle," and a friend upon "Lilla." We imagined that we should indulge in a quiet canter, but soon learnt that we were under no ordinary leaders, for off we went at score, and it was as much as we could do to keep pace with the youngsters, who, like all colonial lads, are accustomed to the saddle from their birth. We were not long in passing the house of the magistrate, situated in a pretty glen within view of the river. On we sped as on eagles' wings, our escort apparently selecting the spots most likely to unseat us, until we reached the new selected estate of a gentleman from the neighbourhood of London, who, with his son, was making vigorous warfare on the forest. Under his guidance we crossed the bush and reached a spot belonging to a gentleman to whom we had a note of introduction. Though he was suffering from rheumatism, he accompanied us round his premises, which certainly promised great things, especially a crop of mummy wheat looking very rich and heavy; and afterwards mounting his pony, he led us a delightful ride over many an hundred acres of the finest table land, having a splendid view of Tongariro in the distance. Both my companions and myself

formed the highest opinion of this locality for grazing and even for agricultural purposes. There was a sufficiency of bush scattered here and there, and water was said to be in abundance; even were this not the case, the moisture in the air would prevent the soil being burnt up as was evinced by the luxuriant grass; while by sinking wells, the water being near the surface, a sufficiency might be obtained for all ordinary purposes. We returned home very much gratified with what we had seen, and with the self-denial which is so characteristic of the colonist in his intercourse with strangers.

It was with difficulty one could realize that this was Christmas-day; there was an absence of all the ordinary associations, excepting a slight sprinkling of evergreens, faint emblems of the holly and misletoe. One of my inducements in deciding on the journey to New Plymouth by the way of Whanganui was, that I might be present at the annual gathering of native Christians from the adjacent districts. The morning broke inauspiciously, the clouds threatened rain, and in consequence it was necessary that Divine Service, which was to have taken place in the meadow, so that all might attend, should be held in the Church, an indifferent building, which could scarcely contain 300. The attendance was very gratifying, and the attention during the service was greater than in an ordinary English congregation. After the prayers had been offered, the Church was cleared, even though it had been raining heavily, and the 262 communicants, who had been previously selected, were admitted.

There was a very observable difference in dress and personal cleanliness between the natives here assembled and those at Otaki, much in favour of the latter, owing, perhaps, to their being so much more immediately under continued personal missionary influence and being nearer the chief town. The dresses on the present occasion were very varied, but blankets generally prevailed; not more than a dozen persons being apparelled in English costume.

I was particularly struck with the appearance of a chief who had been a ringleader in the late rebellion; his nether garments were a pair of regimental trowsers with red beading down the centre, made for a person of very different dimensions, and such a thing as reducing them in the ordinary way had not occurred to his mind, or was beyond the united skill of his tribe, so he had gathered the superfluous cloth together by a knot in front; the coat which adorned his upper person was a black dress coat of rather a handsome cut; the object of its having tails appeared to have been a terrible puzzle which his ingenuity had failed to unravel, and being reluctant to curtail them, as a more inspired moment might arrive, he pulled one to each side and pinned it to the red beading of the trowsers. He evidently appeared conscious of a dazzling superiority, even though he was of diminutive size and of shambling gait, and his face, at least what was left visible of it, was wrinkled and had a cross and unprepossessing aspect, which did not invite a closer acquaintance. Amongst the ladies, the most con-

spicuous was one whose thick soled shoes clattered as she walked with majestic stride to a place near the sacramental table: her dress consisted of a blue-and-white chintz gown with a staring red-and-green shawl hurled on her shoulders; her head was adorned, or rather covered, with an endless quantity of black and white feathers, while from her ears she wore no small amount of the down of the booby. There was positively a majesty in her mien, of which she was duly conscious. These two were much of a size, and seemed happily to characterize the transition state from cannibalism to a rude civilization.

The rain was pouring violently, but I was compelled to leave the chapel, partly from its extreme closeness and partly from the strong odours which prevailed, many of the blankets, not to say anything of the persons which they covered, evidently requiring that ablution which they had not undergone for many a long day. I crossed the river and attended Divine Service in the English Church, which is conducted by the Rev. I. T. assisted by the Rev. Mr. N.

The following Sunday was extremely wet and stormy, but as the clergyman had not for years been deterred by stress of weather from crossing the river, he would not listen to any remonstrance on the present occasion. The native Christians stood on the shore watching the boat's progress with evident anxiety, declaring that it would never reach the opposite side, and one of the native teachers, taking the hand of Mrs. T. who, with her

daughter had remained on the left bank, said, "O mother, why did you allow him to cross to day?" She replied, "It is Sacrament Sunday, and my husband must attend." Bowing his head in thought, perhaps in prayer, for a few minutes, be looked up and said, "He has gone on God's message, and he will be saved." If this little anecdote exemplify the affectionate gentleness of the Maori character, perhaps something may also be learned from the following scene.

On Christmas eve we roamed about the village viewing the preparations which were making for the following day's meal, each party having brought a certain supply of provisions for the public entertainment. Affectionate inquiries and salutations are heard from every side, and the shaking of hands is incessant. Recumbent on a bank with a blanket, being his entire dress, wrapped loosely about him, lies a huge fellow, who, on seeing Mrs. T., lazily bawls out "Eh mata," (oh mother,) "come here." "For shame! for shame! why don't you come to me?" says Mrs. T. "No, no," says Leviathan; when, on Mrs. T. approaching, he, without a move of the body, simply extends his hand, and with the usual "tanakoe" adds that he is tired.

In the evening there was a missionary meeting among the natives. The Church is pretty numerously attended; each speaker, on finishing his address to the meeting, walking up to the table and giving his subscription. Some of these speeches were very much to the point, and considering the circumstances of the donors, well

supported in practice. One remarks, "If you require the face well tattoed you must pay the artist well – here are 10 herrings" (shillings). Another, "The widow's mite was not disdained, then why should my hickapenny (sixpence) be? here it is," holding it up between his fingers. Again: "What great blessings have we not received from England: here are 5s. for the Queen." "Before we became Christians no man was safe, and we were poor; now we are at peace and have abundance: let us give to others what we have received: here are 10s."

As it was necessary to be on the move, we proceeded in search of some men to carry our knapsacks and a tent. It had been decided that we should leave our horses behind us, and instead of going the beaten path by the coast, strike into the bush, and reach New Plymouth by circling round to the north of Mount Egmont. Mr. T. very kindly aided us in our search, and after considerable trouble we met with four men who, for 2s. 6d. per day, were willing to accompany us: only one of the four was a Christian.

Our party had now dwindled down to two, P. and myself. We provided ourselves with a few changes of linen and other necessaries in two carpet-bags. One Maori had charge of a decent supply of tea, sugar, bacon, bread, eggs, rice, and tobacco; while to another was consigned a tent, into which Mrs. B.'s skill had converted a few yards of calico at a very short notice, within this we wrapped a couple of bottles of brandy; a blanket each, and our macintosh completed our equip-

ment. P. was decked out in a blue woollen shirt with broad leather belt, white moleskins, and wide-awake hat; and I stood apparelled in a similar shirt, woollen check trowsers, and broad-brimmed straw hat; especial attention being devoted to the thorough saturation of our boots with grease.

At noon we were once again under weigh, and in the midst of the most naked sand hills which it is possible to conceive, and which almost invariably skirt the coast. Shortly after reaching a sheep station, about 9 miles distant, we went in the direction of the sea. We found the beach to be no longer of that sandy character which made travelling along it so pleasant at low water: it became now thickly covered with boulders of clay and slabs of slate; the banks appeared about 200 feet high and composed of a red, blue, French-white, and deep yellow clay, in well defined strata, and immense masses of shell conglomerate were strewed on the shore for several miles. After some time we left the beach and passed through a sandy district for 5 miles, until at length, by night fall, after having traversed 18 miles, we reached Te Hapuka's pah (village), situated on the right bank of the river Waitotara, and partly on an eminence immediately above it. We were now out of the reach of inns and outlying Europeans. We set to work and speedily pitched our tent, while our men betook themselves to the Church which, having been fitted with a fire-place, suited them admirably. We spread our Macintosh blanket, and tackled to our dinner with appetites worthy of a better fare; the

remnant of a cold fowl, thrown in as a kind of makeweight at the last, was dispatched with infinite relish, and a pannikin of milkless tea proved most acceptable and refreshing; capping the whole with a glass of brandy and water, we tied our handkerchiefs around our heads, put on our new-invented anti-sand-fly musquitoe sheets, and putting a horse-blanket over us, were soon fast asleep.

Early in the morning the bell-bird serenaded us with her inexpressibly soft and soothing musical chime, and the tui occasionally added a sweet note as a chorus, while the kaw-kaw, with his hoarse bluff voice, seemed compelled to utter, at lengthened intervals, an enforced bravo, supposing that the performance had been for his especial gratification. Shortly after I was still more pleased to hear the morning bell toll the summons to Church. Some half dozen of the villagers were speedily assembled, and a short service was performed. Before commencing the attack on our provision-basket, which we began to regard with peculiar affection, we followed the laudable example which had been set us, and read a chapter from the Prophet Isaiah and a small portion of the morning service.

Our levee had now commenced: the tent door was thronged, and at times even the sanctity of our asylum was violated; men with their short dudeens, seated upon their hams; women with children on their backs, prostrate or leaning upon their elbows; boys and girls on all fours; each and every one gaping with intense wonder at the Pakeas (Europeans) performing the simple

but necessary operation of eating breakfast. The buttering of a slice of bread would elicit a nod from one to the other, as much as to intimate that there was fine fun in store; a mouthful of hard boiled egg, dipped into the salt, entranced them; whilst the dropping of a piece of sugar into the tea appeared an act passing comprehension. Occasionally a small pipe, with the bowl downwards to indicate its emptiness, was imploringly held forth, while the other hand went through the process of imaginarily filling it, and perhaps in commiseration of the Pakea's dulness a faint murmuring voice would utter a sound approaching that of "tumack."

Our road continued among sand hills where no trace of a track exists, now and then changing to sand flats thinly covered with stunted fern, the sea about 2 miles on our left, and dense forest ranges 12 to 14 miles to our right. We crossed two creeks, knee deep, at 6 and 9 miles; and ascending, passed over a raised table land clothed with high fern. Below is the fine rich valley of Whennakura; leaving it to our right we moved forward to Patea, 7 miles distant, where we arrived dripping wet from the violence of a north-west gale, which not only opposed our progress for 3 or 4 hours, but drenched us into the bargain. Somewhat beyond we reach the ferry, and crossing the Patea river advance 5 miles to Wittakau, situated on the right bank of the river of that name. Scarcely had we ferried across and landed than the cry of "Pakea, Pakea" resounded through the village. Every hut poured forth its inmates

to welcome the coming strangers, and we found, what we were led to expect to be a deserted village, one of the most populous we had yet seen. "Tena-koe, Tena-koe" was uttered on every side, hands innumerable were well shaken until a kind of palsy had seized us; indeed, so hearty was our welcome that we were apprehensive it would terminate in the rubbing of noses. Several parties returning from Whanganui arrived about the same time as we did, and the "tangi," or howling of welcome was fearful. One unaware of its object would have thought that some dire calamity had befallen the place. Instead of sounds in unison with joyful hearts, as in any civilized spot, there was a constant nasal friction going on around accompanied by long combined moans which, in some cases, tempered by a partial emergence from barbarism, resolved itself into a low half-suppressed whine. Invitation succeeded invitation to partake of their hospitality, a finger pointing to the domicile of each, while the word "kai, kai," intimated that the richness of the larder could only be excelled by the heartiness of the welcome.

Fortune favoured the chief of the village, who appeared wrapped in a dog-skin cloak, alternately black and white, his face being so elaborately carved as scarcely to leave any portion which nature might claim as her own handy work. We were duly ushered into a hut consisting of two rooms, having a fire-place in the inner sanctuary; at one end was a deal-boarded bed without mattrass or furniture, and from the wall was suspended

a dilapidated bookcase, on the dusty shelves of which were some well-worn portions of Scripture. Duly installed, a fire was lighted, but with a truly Maori disregard of all politeness, our porters surrounded the fireplace drying their clothes, leaving us in the outer circle to enjoy an occasional glimpse. To thrust them on one side was in vain, for throngs of all classes filled the room, and smoke, dense and fearful, overpowered us. We entreated that a little more space might be allowed; we pointed to our streaming eyes; but no sympathizing action followed: so, unwilling to offend our host, but desirous of saving ourselves, we effected a precipitate retreat to the fenced enclosure, where we set to work and pitched our tent amid the laughing jokes of old and young, who regarded our proceedings with amusing interest. Success at length crowned our efforts, the tent was reared, and as a barrier against an irruption of the outside barbarians, a fire was lighted in the very vestibule. Futile were all our labours, vain our ingenuity: the sanctuary was stormed: around the fire a dense group was assembled, and some even took up a position inside. Extremes meeting, we roared with laughter; a counter cheer was elicited from their side: we appealed to their feelings; they could not readily find them: we appealed to the chief, intimating, with hand outstretched towards a neighbouring height, our intention to remove our encampment unless we were allowed a little privacy. Our entreaties are not in vain, a successful effort is made, silence reigns around. But oh! the transient character

of all earthly enjoyment. We had scarcely begun to unpack and to remove our saturated clothes, when, lo! a woman's head appears from beneath the lower part of the tent: a fresh inroad is made, the citadel is taken; and we are obliged, in order to obtain a little quiet, to betake ourselves to a rapid retreat. With indignant remonstrances in English, impressive from their very unintelligibility, we strike our tent to the silent amazement of the assembled multitude, and learning that an Englishman's house was nigh, we shouldered our packs and started off in search of it. Wonder now gave place to triumph, and the "tena-koe," which had welcomed our arrival, was changed into a derisive cheer at our odd notions in departing.

Fortunately for us, the home we sought was hard by. It was a rude straw hut built by some European who had been deluded with the vain hope of rural enjoyment amidst such strangers to all civilized associations; experience short, and probably expensive, dissipated his visions; for the village history narrates that he forsook all and took his departure for England. There was a moral in the tale that we felt much disposed at the time to digest. As next of kin to the departed, nationality forming the relationship, we took possession; allowing two horses, which had appropriated the hall to themselves, to remain. Our attendants expressing a desire to return to the civilized abodes which we had just left, and we acknowledging the great congeniality of sentiment which existed between them and our assiduous hosts, willingly

acceded to their wishes. "Home, sweet Home:" if an Englishman desires to realize the fulness of the sentiment, let him pass an evening under such circumstances as have been described.

The silence was exquisitely delicious: more so than Gunter's iced cream in the dog days. We cast off our shoes and stockings, and nearly thrust ourselves into the fire which we had hastily lighted. We had changes of linen, but as injurious results from being wet are so infrequent in this truly excellent climate, we preferred drying our dripping garments to changing them. We really revelled in our solitude, and sat chatting by our camp fire until a late hour, when we retired to the apartment which we had set aside for ourselves. Raised about 4 feet from the ground was a kind of platform, across which branches of trees, without any special reference to straightness, had been fixed; this was our bed, the macintosh was our mattrass, and the carpet-bags our pillows. To sleep we retired; but, envious of our retirement, a host of sand-flies, fleas, and musquitoes unintermittingly practised their profession on us, and some mares also made sundry perambulations throughout the night, every now and then peeping into our paddock; so that what with boards, horses, and the little enemies above enumerated, we rose in the morning the wiser at least, if not the better; however, the change was thankfully appreciated, and the more so when we found that our attendants had suffered more than we had.

We were on the move very early, as this hospitable

region offered but little inducements to a longer residence. Sand hills still formed our road. Shortly after starting, on surmounting one of these Mount Egmont was distinctly visible: it is doubtless a most beautiful object, scarcely perhaps so graceful as our imagination had pictured it; its slope is much more gradual than we had any idea of, and the snow extends to about a fourth of its height, silvery-looking streamlets running lower still in the deep recesses where the sun scarcely penetrates. Our day's journey was the most tortuous conceivable, and led to the inference that we had missed the road. At one time Mount Egmont was on our right, then on our left, and occasionally straight in front. Our approach was like that to a besieged city, or similar to the tacking of a ship at sea, so that the distance between Wittikau and Manawurpoor appeared to be 16 miles rather than the 12 it was represented to be.

At O'Hangai, situated on a high table land, we came upon a very fine country, highly cultivated in parts, having wheat in patches of 50 to 100 acres belonging to the natives. The village itself, viewing it as a Maori village, was the picture of neatness, and indeed the whole appearance of the place more closely resembled an English farm than anything we had yet seen in New Zealand. From O'Hangai we passed to Whareroa through 2 miles of forest land, in parts highly picturesque, with wheat cultivation in a still finer condition, and an equally creditable village.

Desirous of reaching the outskirts of the forest before

night-fall, and fearful if our men overtook us in the village that they would endeavour to persuade us to remain there, we were pushing rapidly onwards, when the chief of Whareroa, with a countenance beaming with honest delight, heartily invited us to partake of some refreshment. We were obliged to decline, and pointing to my stomach to indicate its distention with a late meal, we were proceeding, when his countenance expressing deep disappointment, I offered him my hand, gave him a hearty shake, and laid great emphasis on my parting "tena-koe." There was an immediate revival of his good humour; a punch on my ribs, practically enforcing his opinion, that so thin a stomach could scarcely have been so lately replenished; when giving him a right good smack across his shoulders, and jerking my head backwards and casting my eyes upwards, an antipodal expression of good feeling, we parted great friends. Our destination was Katemaree, but by some mistake we reached a place called Lowten, at night-fall. Nothing could exceed the friendly feeling of the inhabitants of this village; they not only helped to pitch our tent, but, unsolicited, brought straw for our bedding, an oil lamp, and milk. This was a strange contrast to the reception of the preceding day: there was still a considerable and annoying amount of curiosity; but such a generous reception, such anticipation of our wishes, enabled us to endure it with much more equanimity. We enjoyed a delightful night's rest, and rose really refreshed. One of our earliest visitors was a young fellow who had kept

us up to a late hour on the evening before by a series of calculations in compound multiplication, he must have slept with his slate in his hand, for with the grey twilight it was the first thing we saw. He had, at our request, procured us a guide, and here he stood before us, a sturdy athletic fellow who was destined to give us our first lessons in extortion: he demanded 2s. a day for his services, and we readily acceded; he then increased the demand to half-a-crown, and as we were giving our men that amount we admitted the justice of his claim; we were now informed that the journey through the forest would certainly occupy us six days; we assured him that he was mistaken, and that one half of that time was allotted for the purpose; he demurred, we insisted, and at at length carried our point.

Just at this period the Church bell rang, and being desirous of seeing how many in this out-of-the-way place would attend, I dropped in shortly after the service had commenced. The Church was, as is invariably the case, the best building in the village; there were about 20 people present out of about 100. The service consisted in singing a psalm, rapidly reading a chapter, and equally rapidly reading some of the Church prayers. I fancied I saw a resemblance to the lifeless formality with which some of our Cathedral daily services are attended, and almost doubted the expediency of bringing the congregation together at so early an hour. On my return to the tent the guide was intently engaged in watching some potatoes undergoing the process of boiling, and

expressed considerable astonishment at my wishing him to forego so sumptuous a repast, by a look combining amazement and contempt.

To while away the interval, we attended a public debate which had arisen in our encampment; a subject being always ready at hand, so illustrious an audience for the display of their oratory was not to be neglected. The division of the money gained by hiring out a horse was before the house, and the debators were separated into three or four groups. A thin cadaverous-looking fellow, clothed in white, opened the proceedings by a speech which took a considerable time in its delivery, long intervals occurring, whether from want of breath or thought it was impossible to discover; at length, exhausted with his efforts, he sat down with a dignity which expressed a conviction that his duty had been effectively performed. Other speakers followed, throwing light upon the subject. A crisis was evidently now at hand, for, eager and animated, up jumped a man and opened a furious fusillade; advancing and retiring he argued the point with great vehemence, and suddenly turning round commenced a rapid retreat, covering it with indignant remonstrances, hurling defiance at his opponents, and finally disappearing in a distant hut, which might have afforded a decent shelter to a respectable pig. Forthwith arose, in dignified attitude, a man whose party, judging from his insulation, appeared to consist of himself alone; pipe in mouth, he expressed his sentiments with the composure of one who habitually partakes of the solacing weed; sentence and

smoke alternated with each other until both pipe and speaker were exhausted. His retirement summoned a bashful youth to his feet; biting his lips, he allowed a half expressed sentence to escape him, but having lost the remainder, he gave a timid glance around at the smoking groups, and hurriedly resumed his seat. The subject appeared to be exhausted, which perhaps may account for the preceding speaker's dilemma, for the debate was closed by a man enveloped in a red blanket, the colour being a favourite one, as not shewing the amount of dirt which is usually carried on the person, expressing himself in a few deliberate sentences while in a sitting posture. The council, as if by mutual consent, broke up, and we prepared for an immediate start.

One might as soon expect an alderman to forego a dish of turtle or white bait, as a Maori to let slip an opportunity for the exhibition of his debating powers. When engaged in this "feast of reason and flow of soul," he is essentially in his element; for during the period of his heathen blindness it was one of the most powerful instigators to the most fearful carnage. The debates of the council circle were a fit introduction to the demoniacal excitement of the war dance; but now that the "Prince of peace" has supplanted the "prince of the power of the air," the debates have lost much of their intensity of feeling and energy of action; though still, and even to the observer unacquainted with the language, the alternate calm self-possession and earnest declamation, accompanied by appropriate action, is very

striking: the orator paces the enclosure formed by the seated audience, moving at one time with the hasty impatient tread of the monarch of the forest, and at another with the deliberate thoughtfulness of the contemplative metaphysician in his most abstracted mood. Every look and action appears in strict accordance, and those acquainted with the language and who have heard debates at times of peculiar excitement, speak of their eloquence in no ordinary terms of praise.

Before us in dense and dark array, stretching at least 60 miles in the direction of Taranaki, stood the forest through which we had to pass. Our men had taken a liberal supply of potatoes, and we had also taken a precaution, that of ascertaining the exact bearing of Mount Egmont, so that in case we should lose our way we should know how to proceed. It was not long ere we had practical experience that "pride may not enter here" would be a fitting cautionary motto to inscribe on the portals of the forest, for like every thing in New Zealand, the forest asserted and maintained its independence. Some have complained of the monotony of penetrating such dense bush, but no such monotony existed in our eyes on this day at least; our very falls, numerous and unwelcome as they were, assumed a variety that was amusing. It would be difficult to describe our road: here and there a track, a foot and a half wide, tortuous as a snake in convulsions, indicates the direction, occasionally concealed by a fallen tree through, under, over, or around which we had to twist; at other times, ob-

scured by overgrown vegetation, so that we only knew we were not astray simply by our being able to advance at all, while we were impeded continually by intertwined gnarled roots, and the pathway was intersected by that torment, ever present, ever teasing, the supple-jack. No vigilance could escape its grasp; at one time it would gently detain us by the hand as if for a moment's converse, but, if impatient of delay, we cast it aside, a neighbour would immediately supply its place, and by tripping us up, teach us to regard it with due courtesy: at another time it would yield to our push, until it had convinced us that one end at least was free, when a sudden jerk would arrest us with such violence as to impress the mind with the necessity of a never ceasing caution. Arrived at a doubtful point where a fallen tree with its branches pointed towards you demands an investigation as to the route, and suspended and festooned in every direction, and at every height, this dreadful monitor would make progression in every quarter but one impracticable; tripping us up, catching hold of our packs or walking-sticks, or exhibiting, in some of its never ending variety of forms, its fearful powers.

Various creeks intersected our course and afforded us no inconsiderable amusement from the odd positions we were obliged to assume in crossing them. A neighbouring tree, felled by a rude engineer, formed a bridge across them, the trunk being at times horizontal, at other times terribly inclined; occasionally round, then almost pointed; here a giant, there a sapling; so that we had an

endless succession of something approaching to tight rope dancing, and no small amount of ingenuity and skill was required if, by chance, the surface presented a velvet-like coating of moss. Progress, however, we did, and at times rapidly, even amid such difficulties; ever bowing, stooping, balancing, leaping, never venturing to look around unless when at a stand still, for such temerity was invariably repaid by something unpleasantly approximating to prostration. Fortunately venemous reptiles are unknown, and briars very scarce, otherwise a more cautious advance would have been absolutely necessary; as it was, many a dense mass of overhanging vegetation, below which no trace of a track was visible, was passed with the hat firmly tied, the head inclined, the eyes closed, the lip compressed, and then a rustle, a switch across the nose, a stumble, or some such humorous incident, at which it was impossible not to laugh if your companion was the sufferer.

Occasionally we arrived at a spot which a nobleman would desire to see inclosed within his ring fence. Seated under a venerable tree, whose ample foliage could have sheltered hundreds, with a fine open space covered with luxuriant grass before us, we gazed at the impenetrable forest. The majestic Rata, decked with rich crimson blossoms, formed an elevated back ground; beneath was a profusion of russet-brown foliage; and in the fore ground fresh and beautiful evergreens of every shade and tint. Many trees were covered with a delicate moss, while from others the kei-kei, a pendent parasite, formed an

attractive variety to the scene. The barkless fuchsia, which attains a height of 50 feet and a diameter of 2 1/2, had covered the ground with its fresh-shed blossoms, much inferior however to the cultivated fuchsias of Europe. We advanced this day about 20 miles, and encamped in the neighbourhood of a beautiful rata, 36 feet in circumference, damp, chilly, cold, and tormented with musquitoes.

Rose early in prosecution of our second day's forest journey. Poured forth many a bitter lamentation over the last morsel of bread which had disappeared on the previous evening: ransacked our minds for a substitute, and found not an indifferent one in boiled rice saturated in a mixture of sugar, butter, and brandy. It was a happy thought, and subsequent experience bore ample testimony to its endurance-giving powers. Our road was a stereotyped edition of yesterday's, with this addition, that we passed no less than 25 mountain torrents: the creeks were bad enough, but these torrents abominable. Had heavy rain fallen, a nervous man would have died of fright before attempting to cross the former, and would most certainly have perished in crossing the latter. The banks of the mountain torrents were 20 to 50 feet high; the constantly ascending and descending which, added to the difficulties of the preceding day still in full force, made us laugh less, and led to the formation of an opinion, that our bush experience was still incomplete.

In crossing one of these, spanned by a tree at about

8 feet above the stream, which was 5 feet deep, I unfortunately lost my footing and found myself astride the monster, though but for a moment, for the impetus of the fall and the want of a just balance caused me to swing round, and there I hung suspended by feet and arms, with P. just above compassionately eyeing, but unable to move to my assistance. Our men were happily near at hand, and one of them wading into the stream assisted me to recover an erect position, which I attained with difficulty, being almost powerless from laughing at my ludicrous situation. Finding that this endless rope-dancing across the streams was a very unpleasant, not to say precarious, operation, we made up our minds to ford every one, large or small, without removing shoe or stocking. To vary the monotony of this exercise, we met with a fearful amount of swampy ground, in which, at some long gone-by period, some thoughtful traveller had thrown branches of trees, so as to afford an easier transit; our advance, in consequence, at times resembled the stealthy tread, and then the fearful spring of the tiger. Not infrequently success was denied us, and we had the privilege of personally ascertaining the depth of the swamp, and of being furnished with liberal samples of its nature. Twenty miles of such enjoyment was deemed sufficient, so finding an abundance of dry wood near one of our friendly torrents, we reared our tent and proceeded to a minute examination of the state of the provision basket. We could not accede to the mental suggestion that we ought to see the new year in, and therefore con-

tented ourselves with taking a cup to the memory of the passing one whose career was well nigh closed.

If yesterday's labours had proved arduous, what can be said of to day's, and of my folly in encumbering myself with a load of 20 lbs. partly to relieve one of our overfatigued Maoris, and partly in the hope of clearing the forest at an early hour and pushing on to New Plymouth so as to be prepared for the ensuing Sunday? We counted no less than 18 mountain torrents in the first half of our journey; during the second the nature of the ground changed, and they became much less frequent. Before we were well out of the forest the rain came down in heavy showers, and we experienced for a mile the terrible additional inconveniences we should have encountered had it rained at an earlier period; as it was, what with the additional load, the extremely slippery character of the road, and the impetuous current of the creeks, I was fairly exhausted, and fell in wading the last stream; a little brandy and water brought me all right again in a minute, and I and my pack remained friends to the last. Just previously P. had somewhat a similar adventure, for in crossing a torrent, which had received reinforcements from the neighbouring spurs, I heard a splash, and turning round found him on all fours most vigorously engaged in an attempt to resume a more erect attitude.

We witnessed a curious instance of infatuation early in the day. Our guide, on hearing the twitter of a bird resembling a green linnet, plucked a leaf from an adjoin-

ing tree and applying it to his mouth produced a sound somewhat similar to that which the bird had been uttering, at the same time he brought both hands to his face in the attitude of a person catching a ball; entranced, the birds flew around him from all quarters, and so closely that by merely stretching out his hands he nearly caught several of them, and at length one flew directly into his extended arms.

Never shall I forget the delight with which on emerging from the forest we caught sight of the first evidences that a human habitation was near. A rude gateway, to prevent the straying of cattle, struck me as a fine specimen of man's inventive and architectural genius. We passed through it rapidly, and advancing a few hundred yards, a human habitation hove in sight in the dim evening twilight. We reached it, and lifting the latch and peeping in I found it was the Church, and that evening prayers were being offered. Closing the door and moving forwards towards a hut a villager met us; immediately our Maoris, equally delighted with ourselves, commenced a most vehement rubbing of noses; seized by the enthusiasm of the moment, and catching the infatuation, I found myself to be similarly engaged; the good man's lady appearing, all attention was immediately directed to her, but as the fit had almost subsided, I exchanged the reality for the form, and at a distance went through this nasal shaking of hands. Having thoroughly established ourselves in their favour, we requested permission to visit their mansion, to share the comforts

of their domestic hearth, and to partake of their hospitality. We had not far to go, it stood before us, pleasantly situated, about 2 feet below the ground with the roof resting on the same firm foundation, and a square hole at the gable end, 2 feet in diameter, devoid of windows and destitute of a chimney; it certainly did not look inviting. We mused; our tent was behind, the ground was damp, the rain was pouring, and within was the glimmer of a wood fire: this was not the opportunity for sound and serious investigation; so hesitating no longer, I bowed the head, and darting through the hole was immediately jammed firmly by my pack. Grinning astonishment and defiance at the intruder, a mother with 3 pups, reposing on the warm ashes, would have made me pause; but P., with that ready wit which characterizes him, applying his shoulder to my pack, and I wriggling and twisting at the same critical moment, found myself erect and sole human occupant of this family chateau: in three minutes I had sufficient companions. We resolved to make this our home for the night.

Before us, at the further end of the house, measuring 14 feet by 8, there was a mat, which we at once selected as our seat, despite the strong wind blowing in between the rough split boards and threatening rheumatism at every blast. Once in position, we commenced a survey of the apartment; within 2 feet, in the centre of the hut, there was a blazing fire, in the opposite corner a huge pile of wood, various packages were suspended from the roof, and over our heads was a musket which probably

had seen some service in its day. Grouped around the fire, in close contiguity, were no less than 11 human beings, 4 dogs, and a cat. Having ascertained that we should be allowed to repose in this happy spot, we inquired whether our host or hostess could cook a little food for us. Immediately a saucepan of noble dimensions was borrowed from a neighbour, a flax basket was laid on the ground, and in less than 20 minutes all hands were engaged in devouring a heap of hot mealy potatoes, our liberality supplying a fragment of bacon and a few pinches of salt. The first mound rapidly disappeared, and a second was forthwith prepared; this also vanished with lightning-like speed; but while engaged with the few last mouthfuls, the house in which we sat vibrated as if it had suddenly been converted into a pendulum; the earth quaked, and we quaked with it, in body if not in mind, and one or more of our attendants looked remarkably serious. It appeared to us as a welcome on emerging from the forest, or perhaps as Mount Egmont's friendly shake on our arrival within its dominions.

We subsequently learned that the earthquake was considered the most serious one the inhabitants of New Plymouth had experienced for some years, and that many a chimney had bowed its head in token of its prowess. We were glad to find on our arrival next day, that its occurrence had nearly faded from recollection. When the subterranean steam is well up, and the Atua thoroughly enraged, these earthquakes are by no means to be despised, as many of the inhabitants of Wellington

can testify, who, viewing with dismay the levelling powers of that of 1847 or 48, resolved to leave the upheaving country, and embarked on board of a ship bound for Old England, which, on passing out of the harbour, struck the ground and was wrecked; thereby affording sufficient time to digest the fact, that there are perils by sea as well as by land, at home as well as abroad.

Our hunger at length was appeased, our attendants had, one by one, disappeared to enjoy a fire and a night's rest in the Church, and we, though dripping wet, and our packs but little better, proceeded to rest just as we were. If we ventured on a stretch our feet would, unfortunately, come in contact with the fire or alarm the maternal anxieties of the dog which, with her pups, had taken up their night's lodging on the warm embers.

Was it a vision of the night: the creation of a brain distempered by the intoxicating potatoe, or a tickling reality? a certain tingling of the nose torments me: can it possibly be, that in the interchange of courtesies a mesmeric influence had been conveyed from the Maori's nasal organ to mine? or worse still, that the intensity of the pressure had transferred the tracery which adorned his nose to mine?. The flickering light will not allow me to glance downwards with any satisfaction, and the feel only assures me that the surface is certainly uneven. However, if it be so I must bear, the infliction with becoming philosophy, remembering that the mako or tattoo is by some considered as a seal manual, and some use may be made of the disaster after all. This mode of salutation

is gradually dropping into disuse. Formerly in the tangi the noses would remain in contact for a considerable time, accompanied by a fearful moan or whine, the act is now that of a moment, indeed is often superseded by the European shake of the hand; and it is even said, when one of the gentler sex participates in the salute, that the lips come into contact oftener than the noses, and that the flavour is considered to be more delicate, and more luscious.

However, despite all, we slept well, rose very early, and partaking in common of the last pannikin of rice, and giving our host the unusual quantity of four sticks of tobacco, we shouldered our packs, and stepped out lustily in the hope of being in sufficient time for the morning service. Unfortunately, we arrived just as the houses had poured out their inmates to the different Churches and Chapels, and ashamed of our beards, which had not felt a razor for seven days, and of our tattered garments which had experienced some rough treatment, we gladly availed ourselves of a most excellent hotel close to the beach, and were soon ourselves again.

CHAPTER VIII. NEW PLYMOUTH.

CHAPTER VIII.

NEW PLYMOUTH.

THOUGH we had arranged our movements so as to be able to pass the Sunday in New Plymouth, unfortunately we had not given a sufficient allowance for contingencies, and, in consequence, had to make a short journey to enable us to attend Divine worship at least once on the Sabbath.

I was particularly struck with the massiveness and general appearance of the granite-built Church which, from its situation in the centre of a beautifully green enclosure, recalled many a tender association in connection with the country from which the first New Plymouth settlers came. It may well be the pride of the village, a fitting representative of the fine and generous feelings to which it owes its origin. I visited with deep interest the mound which covered the remains of its first minister, and when I cast my eyes upon the Church, a memorial of his labours, and on the adjacent parsonage embowered in rich flowering creepers, where, perhaps, he had spent many an hour in the preparation for ministerial duty, I thought of the influence which a first pas-

tor, though his ministry be short, may exercise over his successors, and thus, as it were, live again in their labours.

Service was about to commence, and we hastened to enter. The interior is beautifully fitted up, and in admiring the richly decorated wooden roof, we could pardon its somewhat ungraceful pitch as seen from without, which an increased length or turreted battlements might rectify. The service was read from the communion table and the sermon delivered from the reading desk, the clergyman being habited in his surplice. The Bible and prayer-book were decorated with crosses. I note these trifles because they are new to us; for it would be difficult to draw any just inferences from them, in New Zealand, at least, where we have seen the surplice so indiscriminately used as would sorely puzzle any one who regards it as the shibboleth of a party.

A hill happily situated for a good view of the settlement invites us to ascend; its excellent terraced defences point it out as a commanding military position, and it was on this spot, in all probability, that the tribes of Taranaki made their final stand against the warlike inhabitants of Waikato. It is not, however, from this point that the beauties of the scenery are to be viewed to the best advantage, for you are obliged to turn a cold shoulder to Egmont's graceful mount. On approaching from the westward it presents its loveliest aspect, but I had not an opportunity of viewing it from that quarter.

The settlement of New Plymouth was formed in 1841

by the "Plymouth Company of New Zealand," and was originally colonised by emigrants from Devonshire and Cornwall. On the company ceasing its operations, it passed into the hands of the New Zealand Company, which had just been formed. It has been said that it did not receive that attention which Wellington and Nelson have enjoyed from owing their existence more immediately to that influential body.

Taranaki, or New Plymouth, is situated on the southwestern extremity of the Northern Island, in lat. 39.1 and long. 174.15. Whether we regard the fond and passionate regrets of the original possessors, driven towards Port Nicholson by the ruthless and desolating power of the northern tribes, or we listen to the enraptured expressions of its present inhabitants or the passing stranger, we hear the same language of unqualified praise. Seated on the coast, within 16 miles of the magnificent Mount Egmont, backed by noble forests, possessed of a fertile soil, and in the immediate neighbourhood of abundance of the finest land, it may well challenge universal admiration. Dr. Dieffenbach observes that "in future times this picturesque valley, as well as Mount Egmont and the smiling open land at its base, will become as celebrated for their beauty as the Bay of Naples, and will attract travellers from all parts of the globe."

The original design was to purchase 68,500 acres, which were to be divided thus: 550 acres of town land were to be subdivided into quarter acre sections; around this were to be 10,450 acres subdivided into 209 sections;

and beyond this again 57,500 acres of rural land subdivided into 1150 sections. The town land was thus obtainable in quarter acre sections, while the suburban and rural were to be had in blocks of 50 acres each. Certain portions were, as usual, set aside as native reserves.

On the return of the expelled tribes it became necessary to review the terms of the original purchase of the land by the Company; the Commissioner decided in favour of the claim to 60,000 acres, but Governor Fitzroy restricted the decision to 3500; finally, however, on an additional payment being made by the Company, it obtained possession of 29,000 acres. About one half of this quantity has been disposed of, and the remainder is available on the terms at which it was offered by the New Zealand Company, viz. the town quarter acre sections at £12 10s. and the country 50 acre sections at £2 per acre, the purchaser receiving back one sixth towards the expenses of his emigration. It would, however, be well if the intending settler acted strictly on the excellent and judicious advice given in page 56 of Mr. C. Hursthouse's work on New Zealand, and reached the colony as free as the air he breathes.

The village is prettily situated on the banks of a small stream and runs in a direction parallel to the coast and for about three quarters of a mile inland. The country is gently undulating, interspersed with small wooded gullies, and generally free from timber, abundance of which is within a reasonable distance. Neither of the two streams is of any use for navigable purposes; and

in fact, the Waitera, about 12 miles distant, is the only river of any magnitude in the neighbourhood.

We had entered from the north-east, along the Devon road, and as our stay was limited, we took an early opportunity of mounting our horses, and, under the guidance of a gentleman to whom we had a letter of introduction, cantered away for a few hours, taking a south-westerly course. On our left was Mount Egmont looking, we thought, less lovely than when we first saw it near Patea, owing to a range of hills of varying height running, apparently as a spur, from its centre, and terminating to the westward in three very peculiar sugar-loaf peaks, the last of which stretches about a mile into the sea; the snow also did not apparently descend so low; still it was a beautiful object beyond all doubt. On our right were the cultivated sections bordering the coast. The amount of enclosed land particularly attracted our attention, and much of it exhibiting good pasture, and fair crops of wheat, barley, and oats, the former averaging about 25 or 30 bushels the acre. The fencing was good and very extensive; while the roads, on which we travelled, were well laid out and in good condition. On reaching the further boundary of the Omata district we turned homewards, partly through the influence of a threatening shower, and on our return, by circling round, inspected the country bordering on the forest.

From what we could learn, it appears that the seasons as well as the crops have materially changed during the last four years; for ground, which formerly yielded 50

bushels to the acre, will not now produce above 25. Some have ascribed the difference to the exhaustion of the soil; but then, the new ground appears equally affected: others, to the amount of oxide of iron, bad farming, inefficient preparation of the seed wheat, bad seasons, but, in fact, the cause is still unknown: a scarcely appreciable difference is however visible this year. Some of the wheat crops belonging to the natives, which exhibited very fine and full ears, we noticed to be seriously affected by smut. The present quotation at which wheat sells is 10s. the bushel; but the selling price of late years it was said has not much exceeded 5s. The natives are producing wheat in considerable quantities, and by storing until a favourable time for the sale occurs, obtain better prices; while the European agriculturist of small means is obliged to have recourse to an early sale to meet his expenses.

We much regretted that a day of unrelenting rain prevented our visiting the Grey Institute for the education of native youth, under the admirable superintendence of the Rev. Turton of the Wesleyan Connection; and also of inspecting one or two farms which were reported to give a fair view of the capabilities of the country; this latter however we regretted the less, because we had walked over one which spoke decisively enough in its favour.

We had relied upon procuring a "New Plymouth Guide" in the village, but found, on inquiry, there was not such a publication; bye and bye it will doubtles have

a bookseller of its own, with many a goodly shelf inviting outlay; and the chemist, who is now obliged to combine sundry occupations to earn a good living, will find plenty of employment, climate permitting, in the increased population. The village possessed its subscription book-club, containing some 300 or 400 volumes; and ordinaries were regularly held and well attended at an hotel justly deserving of every success. The neat little mill hard by on the banks of a crystal brook spoke loudly of business, and the general appearance of the shops were indicative of a good return being made to the investment of capital.

I left New Plymouth with the impression that it offers fair prospects to the agriculturist, provided that the open roadstead be, as it is represented, easily accessible, and that vessels have such certain indications as enable them to clear the coast before the north-westers set in. I understood that cleared rural land among the early selections, belonging to non-residents, of whom it was complained there were too many, was offered at £10 an acre. A fine district for sheep farming is represented as existing to the southward, and an agricultural district similar and adjacent to Omata is in part occupied.

It was necessary that we should be on our way to Wellington if, as we designed, our absence should not exceed a month. Unpropitious as the weather was, we resolved upon a start, even though one of the best native authorities refrained from recommending an immediate advance on account of the swollen state of the

rivers. Seeing us determined to proceed, he gave us a few lines, by presenting which we should get accommodated at his house; and our friend having given us a letter to a native teacher on the Waitera, we took our departure, feeling extremely obliged for the kindness we had experienced.

The usual road is by the coast, but we were tired of beaching it: we might return by the forest, but felt disinclined to renew our acquaintance immediately, and therefore selected a route which afforded, as we thought, a fair proportion of travelling by land and water. We were to reach the Waitera river, pole up it a day's journey, cross a forest in two days to the Whanganui river, about 122 miles from its mouth, and drop down it to the town of Petre on the Whanganui. Our wallet was replenished, our packs refurnished, and in fact our arrangements completed by midday when we resumed our journey, proceeding in a northerly direction, passing through some very fine land belonging to the natives, which they have repeatedly refused to sell, and the possession of which, with the country on both banks of the mouth of the Waitera, would materially increase the prosperity of New Plymouth. The river which was to drown us, Waiwakaio by name, proved very inoffensive, but several impertinent streams brawled at us as we passed, owing, perhaps, to our declining to pay the usual tribute of removing shoes, stockings, and trowsers. At nightfall we reached Uirung, having sauntered over about a dozen miles, where the usual hospitality awaited us and the

same eagerness to shew us every attention; as usual we preferred the snug retirement of our tent to the closeness, smoke, and annoyances of a hut. Being thoroughly wet, we were anxious to effect a change of trowsers, but our entertainers were deaf to our entreaties to be left alone for a few minutes, until the act of placing a blanket before the open end of our tent appeared to convince them that we were really in earnest, when they disappeared as if by magic.

We this day experienced the truth of the observation, that the best devised plans are often frustrated by the merest accidents. It was our intention to start at an early hour, and though we had prepared our breakfast and, what's more, devoured it, our helpmates, ironically speaking, were not ready. A kind female Maori had, however, some compound under preparation for them, of which putrifying maize was a very discernible ingredient. As we were obliged to add to our stock of patience, now becoming somewhat burthensome, we thought we might as well add to our stock of information on cookery. In the centre of the hut was a large excavation, about 2 feet in diameter, lined with rough stones; in this a fire had been burning for some considerable time until the stones were sufficiently hot to justify the use of two pieces of wood in extracting a few of the largest from their places; the fire was checked by sprinkling water over it, and a layer of potatoes was placed on the embers and remaining stones; the precious maize, carefully wrapped in dried leaves, was deposited on the

potatoes, and over these the stones were replaced: surmounting these last was a fresh layer of potatoes encircled by wet rags and covered by green leaves, and cold water was now plentifully applied until a dense volume of steam arose, when a damp cloth closely enveloping the whole concealed the remainder of the process from our observation. The completion of this culinary operation was, however, soon communicated to us by a most unsavoury odour arising from the hut, and the human circle which was engaged most energetically in testifying their approval of the disgusting mixture. My mind instinctively reverted to the description given by Rutherford, one of the survivors of the Agnes, the crew of which was massacred on the east coast of New Zealand in 1816. The process I had just witnessed actually resembled that delineated by him, when six of his companions, who were tied to trees, were quickly slaughtered by blows from a tomahawk, the bodies washed, divided, roasted, and deliberately eaten before him and his remaining companions, to whom a portion of the harrowing members was offered.

Our day's destination was a place called Khekarenga, within a few miles; another party was going in the same direction, for we emerged from the staked enclosures of the village with an addition to our numbers of four men, two carrying paddles and two hatchets. There was a pomp and circumstance about the thing which was imposing; but shortly the paddlemen, after an animated conversation with the porters, vanished, and the hatchets

carried in execution order, ahead of us, led the van; we, followed instinctively, believing our associates' assurance that all was right, though doubting the practicability of crossing a river on a hatchet, while the use of a paddle was intelligible enough. Shortly after we entered the bush and proceeded through it for about 8 miles, until we stood on the banks of an impetuous torrent, the Munganui. Below us it spread out into a fearfully deep and dark-looking estuary, banked on the opposite side by a lofty and precipitous cliff: before us it eddied and roared as it passed the boulders forming the ford; and above, or higher up, it was impracticable. We waited in the hope that it would run down, but in vain. The hatchet men with considerate courtesy expressed their readiness to convey us across, not on their hatchets, but on their shoulders, for four shillings, and to shew us that it was not an easy task they had undertaken, one of them, full 6 feet high, waded through the water which reached to his shoulders. As it was the duty of our own men to convey us and our baggage across all fordable rivers, we hesitated; but these fellows being a head taller than any of our men, and more adapted for such work, we offered them one half their demand; they declined: we would not yield: at length they crossed, and glancing at us to see if we were wavering, they ascended the bank and disappeared. What was to be done? There was the road only a few yards off on the opposite side: we had recourse to our provision-basket believing that it would stimulate our latent energies. The water rose higher,

and a black storm was gathering in the distance; we held a hasty council, and decided, come what might, rather than return by the coast road or through the forest we had lately penetrated, that we would bid defiance to the brawler. We ordered our men to prepare; they demurred: we next suggested that we might float across on moogees (bundles of sticks); they denounced the attempt: we raved; they pantomined drowning: and finding they would not attempt the passage, most probably on our account, and that it was useless to sit moping on the banks, we commenced retracing our steps.

We have noticed on several occasions that these fellows have a peculiar pleasure in endeavouring to excite our fears. Knowing we were not great proficients in the art of swimming, in fact, that my companion was entirely ignorant of it, they not infrequently attempted to amuse themselves at our expense by describing rivers as impassable. On one of these occasions we, came to a narrow stream which was too deep to be forded, and across which was but the outline of a broken bridge: our men carefully watched us while they stripped and swam across. Our indifference somewhat puzzled them, for we merely requested them to stand on the bank and catch us, as advancing along the bough and springing from it, we neared the opposite bank: a sousing was the result; but the effect on them was wholesome. The Maoris are certainly endued with a considerable amount of bravery, and have been known on many occasions to jeopardize their own

lives to assist a fellow creature. Bravado in them is certainly not incompatible with courage.

Before arriving at Uirung we learned that the Waitera, which we were desirous of crossing, was within a few hundred yards of us when we started in the morning; that the paddlemen were ready to ferry us to the other side, but that the porters had been deluded into listening to the siren voices of the hatchet men, who graphically described a short cut as one in every way more desirable. The threatened rain had come down and, as usual, drenched us. We pitched our encampment outside the village, and retired, disheartened, to a damp bed.

On the following morning we debated whether we should return through New Plymouth, or prosecute our intended route; a heavy shower of rain hastened our decision, and renewing our acquaintance with the ferrymen we were soon across and ascending the high land on the opposite side. We had a truly trying and distressing experience of bush travelling in the rain. Our information had led us to expect a day's work, not exceeding 10 miles, but judging from a continued tramp from 9 in the morning till dark, we could not have walked over less than 16 miles; and what with the disappointment, thorough drenching, slippery nature of the track, and never-ending shower-baths from the trees, we were fairly bothered. Amid all these untoward circumstances, there burst upon us, occasionally, such overpoweringly beautiful scenery that we were transfixed to the

spot. Our road principally lay along the highest part of the elevated land which bordered the river, and by a sudden turn to the right we stood on the very verge of the precipitous cliff, with the Waitera murmuring amongst the rapids and winding in every direction in the fore ground checked at every turn by a frowning cliff wooded to the very bottom. On one occasion we suddenly found ourselves on a narrow ledge not exceeding 2 feet wide; on our right, 2000 feet precipitously below, was one of these lovely views, but then disenchanted in our eyes; on our left an almost equally steep declivity; and, as if the spot had been made on purpose to test the nerves, this precarious path was partly concealed by overgrowing fern, wet, and slippery. To retire was impossible; to advance, unnerving; so keeping the blanket of an advancing Maori in sight, I progressed with that neck-or-nothing recklessness which possesses one in certain fearful predicaments. A fall to the left would have seriously jeopardized the neck, even had we succeeded in catching a friendly branch; a fall to the right, and nothing would have remained to shew that we had ever been. We both were most sincerely grateful when the ledge gradually gave place to a path of respectable width. Darkness was rapidly approaching, and the danger passed, we were becoming hungry: fearful of going supperless to bed, our men pushed forward with an energy which would have been highly creditable had it been evinced on our account, and we, struggling and exhausted, followed. At length we were brought to a stand still by a stream, to

all appearance, unfordable; we gazed in mute astonishment; visions of smoking dishes tantalized us; but pushing along the densely wooded banks, a tempting spot offered, and one of our men duly probing his way with a long staff and stemming the rushing water reached the opposite bank, we cheerfully followed, wading waist deep, and after pushing our way some distance breast high in fern, we reached our destination, and delivered our letter of introduction to the native reader, an intelligent and benevolent looking man: though high in spiritual office, he appeared of no great civil standing; for after waiting for an invitation to his domicile, and waiting in vain, we were obliged to solicit permission to enter a neighbouring house, which was graciously accorded by a man clothed in a white blanket. A pipe and a stick of tobacco soon excited in him the most generous feelings; for, in return, we were offered the loan of a mat, his only bed, to place above the dry fern which was our mattrass. A dish of potatoes, smoking hot, realized the vision on the stream, and we were once more happy.

The morning dawned, and promisingly too: all now was to be smooth: we had but to ascend the Waitera (a summer day's excursion), cross by two easy stages the forest between it and the Whanganui, float down its silvery stream, and be again among our friends. A hint had been let fall that this river trip, which should have cost us 5s. was to be charged at £2; we were, however, indisposed to believe the slander.

The church bell informs us that service is about to

commence, and the entry of a dozen men and women, loosely wrapped in blankets, indicates that we are in the Church. The book closed, we formally broach the subject of our expedition, and to our unmitigated disgust are told that nothing under £2 for the hire of the canoe could be accepted, and that instead of a day, we would be three on our passage up the river. I threw up all negociation and requested P. to settle the matter as he liked, and that I would conform to his arrangements, even returning, if necessary, to the civilized abodes we had left behind us. Two pounds were promised, and we were to start in an hour. The time rapidly passed, and as we were descending to the boat it was communicated to us, by a series of very intelligible signals, that the wages of two boatmen would be half a crown each a day. Coming to an instant halt, and casting looks of indignant incredulity, we peremptorily refused and threatened that we would leave the inhospitable village and return by land; when, after much demur, they adhered to their own proposal.

Tied to the bank by a flaxen tether was the trunk of a tree denuded of its entrails; it measured 20 feet in length, 3 feet in width, and 2 feet in the deepest part. One solitary boatman accompanied us and took the helm, and our four men devoted themselves to the paddles, while we, seated upon our carpet-bags, which were raised a few inches by fern, were diligently engaged in preserving our own and the boat's equilibrium. At the two first rapids we were requested out of regard to our nerves to

take a detour by land; but on all future occasions we retained our seats. These rapids are awkward customers during freshes. As we approach them the paddles are dropped, the men spring to their feet and seizing the poles dash the canoe along. On one occasion the scene was painfully exciting; the river running at 7 miles an hour, eddying and murmuring, the helmsman erect, the very incarnation of energy, yelling directions, every muscle strained, the canoe motionless, and a rock grinning astern: a moment of thrilling excitement: a sudden impulse, and we shot ahead. To an inactive passenger, scarcely versed in the art of preserving his balance, the scene is trying indeed. Our progress was slow, crossing and recrossing, as the stream changed sides; but what with singing, scolding, half sleeping, drenched as usual, and with abundance of baling, for the water insisted on peeping over the sides, which were only 3 inches above the stream, we reached what the helmsman pertinaciously considered as the termination of the day's journey. As it was scarcely passed noonday, we attempted to make them proceed, but in vain; so after exhibiting a little passive resistance, by keeping our seats for half an hour, we followed their example, and sought shelter from the rain in the village.

Misfortunes seldom come alone, and we were apparently in the current of them. P. bore matters with more philosophy than I did, tied as I was to time. One day had been lost in an experiment, we had been subjected to the annoyances of extortion, half a day was now

expunged to suit the pleasure of our companions, and tomorrow, being Sunday, they could not think of acceding to our suggestion of continuing the journey after the morning service.

A night of intermitting rain, with thunder and lightning, ushered in the Sunday, and though we have slept upon the damp ground with only fern for a mattrass, upon which a macintosh and a woollen blanket, both wet, were spread, we have risen without an ache or a pain. Sand flies, as usual, in abundance, and P.'s hands a mass of inflammation. I slept right well and rose refreshed. Our assistants kept aloof to day, remaining in the Church where a fire was kindled; we, in consequence, had to try our hands at cooking some potatoes, which turned out remarkably well, and added to bread, butter and milkless tea, formed a very satisfactory breakfast.

It may appear strange to find the Church so often used as a place of resort for travellers, especially as before their conversion to Christianity the Maori did not allow a meal to be eaten in the house: perhaps, hereafter, the sanctity with which they invested the one will be transferred to the other: at present we must confine our commendation to the fact of every village, be it ever so small, having a Church, and that without fail the very best house in it.

The morning turning out fine, we exposed our soaked carpet-bags and their contents to the sun, and watching the showers, which periodically interrupted our labours,

we managed to restore our apparel to a very endurable form. P. and I read the full morning service on a mound beside our tent. I attended the Maori service, at which there were about 20 individuals present out of a population of about 70. In the afternoon we read the usual service, a number of Maoris respectfully seating themselves before us in a listening attitude and covering their faces with their hands. During the whole of this evening, as also during the preceding one, we had gratuitously to receive fresh lessons on the phrenological organ of wonder as developed in the Maori cranium: it was decidedly full in man, woman, and child; and uninfluenced by any other modifying organ, or, least of all, by that of order, whose locality must be in some lowly valley, for these good people were continually out of it; surrounding the tent, taking our prepared seats at the fire, imitating our laughter when we indulged at their impudence, while the word "Pakea," unceasingly introduced into their conversation, intimated that we were the all-absorbing topic. It was impossible to be angry, and yet not to be angry; you felt as one feels in endeavouring to receive good humouredly a stinging practical joke. There does not appear to be any influential chief in any village that we have entered; or if there is, his power is practically so controlled as to become invisible. Slavery has all but ceased to exist, and with it all civil distinctions appear to have vanished. To the European, fresh from habits so widely differing, this ceaseless intruding curiosity is almost unbearable;

but when reflection recalls the fact that within but a few short years these people were cannibals you cannot but wonder at the vast change; for now you are treated only with an obtrusive inquisitiveness, while then they would have treated themselves to the most tender morsels about you; the thought makes you instinctively recoil, and conceal as much as possible your materiality from observation.

We resumed our journey at as early an hour as we could induce our people to stir, for the long detention at this place had rooted them to the spot. They paddled sluggishly along, being fully aware of the fact, and capable of appreciating it, that each additional day had the peculiar property of transferring half-a-crown per man from our pockets into their's. A chase after a young duck slightly varied the dull monotony; for acting by anticipation on the coats of their stomachs, the men pulled cheerily for a while, the youngster foolishly swimming and flying up the river, until finding an old acquaintance which called to him from some reeds she heeded the offered counsel and concealed herself from our view. Reaction succeeded this fearful tension of the muscles, and a little canoe, whose whole crew consisted of a man in a dirty cotton shirt and a woman habited in the usual rough flax door-looking mat, both pipe in mouth, passed us at a canter. We cheered, hallooed, and used the most exciting sounds and gestures; but no: it was not to be forgotten that the last in won the race. We had now been 2 hours on the way: 2 or 3

huts appear on the banks and most vehement demonstrations are made by our men to induce a belief that they are famishing, but we turn a deaf ear to the solicitations. About noon a still more inviting spot allures, and we yield.

The village consisted of a clump of 5 houses each having its small palisadoed enclosure; the whole population numbering about a dozen people. It was situated in one of the very few and limited level spots which border the river. Two of these villagers were engaged in cutting a track in a new direction to the Whanganui, and hearing that we were bound for that river, they represented that the road recommended to us was impracticable from the swollen state of the mountain streams, but that the road on which they were employed was in every respect a good one. Our late experience of impracticable rivers, with the conclusion our men arrived at when we left the choice to them, induced us to adopt the suggestion. All agreed that it was too late in the day to enter the bush, and it was therefore settled that we should start early next morning.

During the day the rain fell in great quantities and we were principally confined to the hut, which, as usual, was the Church. Nearly the whole population was assembled round the fire which had been made in the centre, and we, from the necessity of drying our dripping clothes, huddled amongst them with eyes streaming from the influence of the smoke. It was necessary to think of dinner. A little pig, bursting with fat, had

smiled at us as we entered, and we ungraciously negotiated for its purchase; but our men, thinking it would be too small for them to participate largely in, suggested one of more mature age, and expressed their willingness to join in the expense. A cry of "porka" resounded on all sides, and shortly after a number of pigs came trotting in from the tall fern, in the full confidence of infantine innocence, followed cautiously by the suspicious mother, inquiring what could possibly be the matter that their attendance should be required at that unusual hour. One was seized upon and slaughtered, and the remainder retired disgusted. It is usual to collect them of an evening in this manner and give them a few potatoes or some such luxuries, so as to induce them to remain in the neighbourhood and come occasionally to be killed. Our meal was soon prepared by the females, but with an accompaniment in the shape of boiled maize for the Maoris, the odours emitted by which quite disordered the stomach, and left but little appetite for the more savoury pork. I had often heard of this maize, which, like game is most luscious when about to dissolve into its elementary parts; I had now smelt it; a part of the test still remained, for I had been told it grows remarkably upon one's affections. I attached an infinitesimal portion to the extremity of my knife, and bringing it towards my mouth was nearly attacked with a fit of vomiting; but it was no use dallying, the rubicon must be passed, the experience gained, so in it went; and oh! the insufferable taste: a notice to quit was immediately served, and

I resolved to trust, as to its facility of digestion, to the experience of others.

The inevitable confinement to which we were subject afforded a fine field for abstruse researches into the philosophy of taste; and suffering as we did, from the abominations that were being indulged in, we were little liable to err on the side of the uncivilized. A question suggested itself as to the difference between this decomposed vegetable substance, the richly flavoured game in which the gourmand delights, and the animated cheese which offers to its votaries a lively repast. The savoury meal, in each case, is fast dissolving into its original elements, and in the latter has been transformed by some electrical process into living organisms. I could only arrive at the conclusion, that there is no accounting for tastes; and that the savage and his more civilized brother are not so far apart as one might at first sight suppose. In this, as in other points, extremes sometimes meet.

We formed rather a motley group: P. and I were seated near the door (2 feet square) as hungry as hawks, endeavouring to avoid the smoke and the unsavoury smells, our fellows baling in the maize with their hands and licking their fingers with evident gratification, the population in the corner enjoying pork and potatoes, while an old woman sat with her back to the door to prevent the intrusion of six hungry dogs, which were peering over her shoulders, and one or two of which, occasionally, as she veered to one side, managed to give

a leap over her into the midst of us, but only to be as summarily ejected. The debris was soon removed, but what was to be done next? Pass an afternoon in a Maori hut amid these uncivilized beings, whose sole conversation was about the Pakea? It was impossible. Fortune smiled upon us: the rain held up, and we enjoyed three or four hours' walk on the wet grass: yes, richly enjoyed it. What irritation did the gentle fumes of my best friend the mild Havannah allay; as the smoke curled upwards in beautiful spiral forms all anxieties were dissipated and we talked cheerfully of home and its happiness, the future and its prospects. To appreciate fully the enjoyments of the domestic hearth you should be isolated for a time in the unbroken stillness of a New Zealand forest, where the smallest token which reminds one of absent affection causes the heart to gush forth in tenderness, and almost dissolve itself in uncontrollable outpourings for the happiness of those dear to you. Night at length closes in, we stoop our heads and enter our domicile, take possession of our carpetbags, which had been appropriated by our neighbours, and immediately commence a furious controversy with fleas and sand-flies which raged till the morning, when we ignominiously retired from the conflict, beaten and almost eaten.

Before starting we had to settle with our canoe captain. He had engaged to convey us to Pokouree, but as we had changed the route to suit our own convenience, we did not demur at the faithful fulfilment of the contract,

but remembering that we had read somewhere of a bird in the hand being worth two in the bush, an adage eminently and locally applicable, we withheld payment until fairly marshalled for departure. By the way, this fellow was an oddity: he was what, by a false pronounciation, but by a correct designation, a native friend would call a "great thief" (chief). We had met him before somewhere, he knew our errand, and eagle-like, had scented the prey from afar. There was, however, a humour about him which, at times, made me laugh despite my aversion. If our men worked lazily, he, being paid not by the day, but for the job, would slily give me a dig in the ribs with the steering paddle, and by sundry winks and nods cause me to understand that a jobation was needed. In the village he asked for the loan of a pair of spectacles which I carried with me, and putting them on his nose he would walk about with all the gravity of a philosopher to the merry-making admiration of the children. He would then request the loan of my hat, and tying the string under his chin, would sit without moving a muscle, or stalk among the huts, fearless of causing an emigration from his cranium to mine. We had been strongly recommended to keep the fellow in good humour but the attempt nearly resulted in the loss of our own. I must mention, that noticing on one occasion that grace had not been said after dinner, he gave me a nudge and a nod and looking seriously downward returned thanks for the meal they had just enjoyed, giving at the same time a sideling glance at the empty maize dish.

In the neighbourhood of a town or of friends, where contiguity affords encouragement to a left-hander, or the application of the toe, it is sometimes the case that impertinence receives its corporal acknowledgement, and laziness its needed energy; but the effort, even if practicable, leaving out of consideration the propriety or the manliness of a man kicking another through a dense forest of 60 miles, or in a canoe where the balance requires to be preserved by a reference to the nicest rules of art, is extremely questionable, more especially when the exertion which the journey demands is sufficient to occupy one's attention. Some might even consider the proportion of two kickers to four kicked as an essential item in the consideration of the question, and also the probability, or at least the possibility, of the Maori mind being disinclined to become so seriously indebted to the over generous Anglo Saxon; be that as it may, we felt no disposition to resort to "the last reasoning of fools," as some one somewhere says, in a language which does not present a more vivid picture than in good sound English. The requirements of the stomach we found to be most potential; and we noticed that civility always grew in exact proportion to the decrease of their quarter stick of tobacco.

We re-entered the canoe in order to drop down about a mile to the spot where the new pathway commences, and here we took leave of our captain and of the Waitera. I have said little of the latter, because little was to be said; for, except in the lower parts towards the

mouth, where the rapids are numerous, densely wooded and high banks totally excluded the view. At the point where we now are, about 50 or 60 miles from the sea, it is 50 yards broad, apparently deep, and free from rapids.

We now re-entered the bush, accompanied by three men who were proceeding to their work, and one of whom had engaged, for half a crown a day, to pilot us to the Whanganui: the dogs, six in number, insisted upon joining us. Our course lay about N. E. by E. Shortly after we started one of the dogs came upon a kiwi, or Apterix Australis, that wondrous bird which possesses but the slightest evidence of a wing, is devoid of a tail, and whose existence on the island is to the naturalist a standing puzzle: it was a young one, about the size of a full grown fowl, with feathers of a nondescript kind, being long and coarsely clothed; its eyes were continually on the wink, as if it had been caught napping; its beak open, as if pouting at being in custody; in fact, it looked a most foolish creature altogether, and I was glad to see it carefully bagged out of sight. Our party straggled considerably, so that our guides apprehended that those in rear might lose their way. If the track appeared doubtful, a branch would be broken off and placed across the path which was to be avoided, while branches would be bent along the one which was to be followed. The day fortunately proved remarkably fine, our spirits were proportionally good, and some little attentions which we received from our new companions revived oar earliest recollections of the Maori. Though not proof

against the opportunity to extort, perhaps a failing confined to no particular country, their honesty exceeded anything I had ever met with or read of: we never missed a single article during the whole journey; and several times, when on leaving a village we have left something behind, we have heard them recalling us to receive our property: this occurred even at the £2 village so engraven on our memory.

The ordinary dress of the Maori is a kind of cloak made of dog skin or flax: the former confined to the chiefs; the poorer classes having only a kind of long cape made of dressed or undressed flax. In the towns, and in their vicinity, large blankets are adopted, and many wear the European costume: cloth or moleskin trowsers, and a cloth coat or woollen shirt; a blue cloth foraging cap with leather peak appears to be in universal favour. Shoes are not in general use, and indeed they are better without them, for our companions could pass barefooted with the utmost facility over places which we could only attempt with the greatest caution. When the women have discarded the mat, they generally encase themselves in a loose sack with arms attached, which is contracted round the neck and gathered in about the waist; an easy if not an elegant attire.

We reached Monemotu late at night, and went potatoeless to bed, for the solitary couple who resided here would not, or could not, give us anything. We pitched our tent on the long damp grass, and after taking a hasty meal from our own stores, turned into our sacks.

We had just congratulated ourselves on the present being the last day in the bush, and were on the point of starting, when our guide, who had evidently been making a tool of us in escorting us to the place where he was to resume his work, coolly announced that he could not proceed without a promise of eight shillings. We were nearly resolved to offer ourselves up as martyrs to bush-ranging propensities; the demand was so preposterous, it surely would yield before a little argument. One of our men, who knew English just sufficient to be a dangerous thing to us, but extremely useful to them, as it only failed when its possession was not desirable, became interpreter. The guide argued, that as the boatman had extorted £2 from the awkwardness of our position, he surely was to be allowed a similar indulgence. We indignantly declined to pay him a single penny unless he fulfilled his contract. He smiled, and expressed a little curiosity to know how we would proceed without his assistance. We threatened to return. He significantly reminded us that it would be necessary to hire a canoe. Our interpreter's eye gave an undeniable twinkle of delight while conveying this information to our obtuse minds. Snatching up my walking-stick in a paroxysm of anger, I left the hut to prosecute the journey: no track was visible: I inclined a little to the left, nearly breaking my shins against some decaying trees concealed by the deep grass, still nothing but impenetrable bush was before me: obliquing to the right, I got entangled in swampy ground; and turning back, I could not find the

way by which we had entered in the dark. A prostrate tree offered an inviting seat, I accepted it and mused: reflection gnawed the meshes of the net, and I returned and found P. deeply engaged in controversy, but without any advance towards a reasonable adjustment. An hour had slipped away, so as a preliminary to an accommodation, I paid the man for the previous day's services, when he considerately offered for threepence to shew us the road. I threw sixpence towards him; his pride did not interfere, he stooped and picked it up. Retracing our steps about a mile, he pointed to a small opening, which if duly entered and followed would inevitably lead us to the place we desired to reach. As a peace offering, or compunctiously remembering what was before us, he presented me with a small basket of potatoes, valued at a half-penny, but spurning the offered gift, we dashed into the opening and tried to forget that we had once more been mastered by Maori cunning. A glance at the compass assured us of the necessary direction, on the supposition that we were facing correctly; but our chief reliance was upon the intelligence and stomachs of our companions; the former as discovering the right road was remarkable, for they perceived unmistakable signs where not a vestige of a trace was visible to us, and the latter would never admit of their dying in a forest.

We imagined that we had nothing to learn in the art of bridge-making, but our day's experience could find no parallel in the past. One bridge, in particular, I distinctly remember from the doubts which arose in our minds

as to the practicability of its passage: it consisted of four poles, each 2 1/4 inches in diameter, placed in contact, vertically one above the other, spanning a stream 20 feet wide and apparently of drowning depth; the only assistance in this extraordinary calisthenic exercise being a loose piece of supple-jack suspended across it, a few feet higher. Another bridge consisted of two small trunks of trees, one from each side, meeting somewhere under water, the exact position of the junction each having to discover for himself by carefully feeling with his feet as he advanced, a stream of no ordinary rapidity and depth rushing by during the operation. Somehow or other we managed to get across, how, we know not.

We experienced considerable delay on our road from one of the dogs, which had declined to associate any longer with our late guide and his canine followers after witnessing our scurvy treatment, and had cast in his lot with us. He got scent of a herd of swine, and after a very severe chase succeeded in pinning one of them half as big again as himself: a flax rope was tied to the hind leg and a serious attempt made to induce him to walk to our next encampment, but with piggish obstinacy he persevered in deviating from the road, declining to jeopardize his life in crossing the new fangled bridges, until worn out with his perverseness and the necessity which his presence involved of swimming many of the torrents, his guardians put an end to his existence and brought the choicest portions on with them; two hours had, however, been lost in this sport, and as it began to

rain heavily at about 4 o'clock, we were obliged to select a locality, combining dry wood and good water, and pitch our tent for the night. We retired to rest under the gratifying impression that, having ascended an exceedingly steep and high hill, we had crossed the Taumatamahoe, or Razor-back hill, and that, in consequence, we were not far off the Whanganui river.

Morning dawned, and the rain, which had been pouring down the whole night, still continued, but we could not brook delay. As a reward for our perseverance the sun shortly after burst forth, and we went merrily forward under the delightful idea that we should soon bid farewell to the forest, and consequently we cared not that a few broken pieces of biscuit with a polished ham bone was our entire breakfast. Our fellows fared somewhat better, for a portion of their pig remained; this they cut into slices and enveloped them in leaves attached to slit sticks fixed slopingly in the ground leaning towards the fire, and made a very respectable meal. As usual, we were too sanguine; for after descending the precipitous banks of streams by the roots of trees, crossing, and immediately recrossing, and ascending by a cascade, passing mountain torrents on trees knee deep under impetuous currents, we commenced the ascent of the veritable Taumatamahoe, and awfully labouring work it was. Our route lay along its razor back, which was a few feet wide, with sides densely clothed with trees, and falling precipitously for 2000 feet and more. For two hours did we struggle on in this way, ascending to descend, and descending to

ascend, deferred hope making the heart sick, moving on impassively, unheeding anything, and solely wishing a termination to the journey in any shape; when an open space, presenting a most enchanting view, bursts upon us, and agreeing with the information we had received, assured us that we had at length reached the summit.

Below us some 3000 or 4000 feet is a broken circular valley exhibiting one mass of foliage, and around, as far as the eye can reach, is nothing but an endless succession of mountain ridges covered with forests. Imagination fails in attempting to portray the character of the country. Here are millions of acres, from the very nature of the hill slopes, utterly incapable of being cultivated; and myriads of trees as useless as if they were not in existence. One almost fancies that the land was moulded after a rasp or file. Scarce a bird is to be seen or heard, except in the morning; not an insect enlivens the scene, and the only evidence of animal life appears in the fern uprooted by the progeny of Captain Cook's imported pigs.

Elevated far above the grovelling occupations of man, and beyond reach of the prejudices of parties, we fancied that our situation afforded a favourable pinnacle whence we might review what we had seen, heard, and read of the land of our adoption, the future home of an illustrious line, of whom we were the living representatives; but on re-reviewing, at a subsequent period, the cogitations that then presented themselves, we found that we were unconsciously in other meshes which precluded the

unfettered use of our judgment: our strength was heavily taxed, our stomachs empty, and our hopes disappointed. With a primaeval rock for a seat, and with the everlasting hills in an endless succession of towering acclivities around, we were tempted to form somewhat of a hard judgment; we viewed the country as composed of wide spread plains without a tree, of extensive hills impracticably wooded, of rivers without an exit, and of harbours without an entrance; in fact, of nature's fairest forms placed within the longing gaze, but beyond the fond embrace; and thus viewing, erred as widely as if we had enrolled ourselves as partizans in some scheme for most extensively benefitting ourselves at the expense of others.

Satiated with the view, and somewhat depressed with the inevitable conclusion which we feared was to be drawn, we commenced the descent, imagining it would occupy but a short time. For full two more hours did we toil along, ascending and descending in one unbroken continuity, before we reached the river Wangamamona. We were fairly exhausted, and many a time, after toiling up a steep ascent, have we thrown ourselves at full length on the damp grass heedless of the consequences, our clothes saturated with perspiration and our tongues parched with thirst. Arriving at length at a river, we drank deep and long. Here was one of those cleared spots we had occasionally met with even in the very depths of the forest. It appeared as if it had been the residence of some tribe which either had decamped after exhausting

the land, or were exterminated by the more warlike neighbours of Taupo and the Waikato. A silent man had taken up his residence on the banks of the river, whether to point out the ford to the wayfarer, or to provide him with a few potatoes, we knew not; he neither spoke in answer to our inquiries nor smiled in approval of our sallies, but quietly baked a few potatoes, receiving the usual gift with an indifference which evinced a most enviable state of mind. Our men, whether lost in admiration of this mute philosopher, wearied by their labours, or enchanted with the spot, suggested that we should encamp for the night, and by an action of the arms resembling a man swimming or drowning, intimated that we must prepare accordingly if we did not wait till the river ran down. We were immoveable in our determination to advance, and one of the men having waded over, we, tucking up the skirts of our coats, dashed in, were across before the argument was fairly over, and had ascended by a very doubtful and broken ladder which was suspended from the top of the bank, a fearful description of which we had heard of before leaving Whanganui. Onwards we moved, hoping that every yard would terminate our labours, until at length we reached a place where two posts were to be found, one of which indicated the road to Manewetu, the land of promise.

It was now near sunset; we pursued our way over hills and through swamps, exhausted and almost hopeless; at length, on climbing a hill, it became absolutely necessary

to finish the provision-basket before we could proceed; on, on we sped along the edges of the hills, precipitous on both sides, and doubtful of every step, but cheered occasionally by the voices of two of our companions who had begun to descend into the valley; at length, by nine o'clock, we arrived at a projecting spur, and below us, winding as a stream of molten silver gleaming in the beams of the rising moon, was the beauteous tributary whose waters we sought: a rapid descent brought us to the village. We were too late, however, to obtain any refreshment, and even, had it not been for the kindness of two Maori women, who listened to our earnest solicitations and went by torch-light to a neighbouring stream for water, we should have been obliged to retire without the pannikin of brandy and water which enabled us to do battle valiantly with the countless hosts of fleas which welcomed our arrival.

I must not allow this opportunity to pass without mentioning that this was not the first occasion on which we had been indebted to the ready kindness of the Maori women, who appear to be a kind hearted and good humoured class. Overtaking us on their return from the Whanganui missionary meeting, they would sit down by the wayside, enter familiarly into conversation, engaging in their maternal occupations the meanwhile, heedless of our presence, and never omit to intimate that their supply of tobacco was running short. At another time, when perambulating the narrow enclosure of a village, two of them would humourously take each other by the

arm and closely imitate our proceedings. We met but few, and heard that they do not amount to more than two thirds of the number of the males; whatever may be the causes for this disproportion, the heavy labour to which they are subject is not without its influence.

We congratulated each other, when rising, on the termination of our trials, and of having at length reached a place where we were free from extortioners and among honest men. Happy conclusion, if true: its falsity was, however, being developed. Though it had been arranged before we left Whanganui that only £1 was to be charged for the canoe, no less a sum than £3 was demanded. We had embarked, but the canoe was not allowed to leave the shore; we peremptorily refused acquiescence, and professed our intention to adhere rigidly to our engagement, which was fully stated in a note that we delivered on our arrival. I willingly do the native teacher the justice to say that he apparently endeavoured to induce the villagers to abide by this agreement. After four hours' delay we were at length permitted to proceed, and right glad was I when the canoe glided swiftly down the stream. My impression is, that we should not have been subject to these vexatious proceedings had not tidings of our first river trip been wafted across. One day was almost sufficient to convey us to our destination, had we started at daybreak; the delay, therefore, was very favourable to our men.

The Whanganui, down which we are now gently, very gently, propelled, is a fine stream about 100 yards wide,

running swiftly between deep precipitous banks richly clothed with trees and shrubs. Occasionally the monotony of the scenery is broken by a deafening rapid, a silvery cascade, or a murmuring stream; and here and there, wherever an acre of land approaching the horizontal appears, a solitary hut may be seen. The population varies with the amount of available land; but the largest village, or accumulation of villages, we met was in a large piece of undulating ground where the inhabitants were about 200 in number. Generally speaking, the wheat was but indifferent and apparently much burnt. We passed several spots cleared of bush, which showed they had been once occupied but that they were now laying waste from the migratory habits of the people, owing probably to the exhaustion of the soil, which appears to be a vegetable mould resting on a yellowish clay, and which changes into a whitish clay as we descend.

The constant recurrence of villages called Koroniti (Corinth), Heona (Athens), Hierieurahama (Jerusalem), and of men named Abraham, Elia, and such like, transfer one in mind to the regions bordering on the Mediterranean. We received much kind hospitality from the Wesleyan missionary near Peperiki, and intended to call at the Church mission station at that place, but Mr. T. was not at home, and we were anxious to advance from 15 to 20 miles more before stopping for the night. The village at which we slept was extremely neat and prettily situated. Here was the first native house built expressly

for travellers that we had met, and it was quite a treat to us. We dined off some excellent boiled potatoes and richly enjoyed them too.

The hospitality of the Maoris, rude and inexpensive as it is, is unbounded: they neither wait for, nor expect you to wait for a formal invitation. There were times when a knowledge of this might have saved us annoyance and had some influence in filling a craving vacuum.

There is no need of a watchman to make one rise early: our slumbers were disturbed often enough by that little animal which has become domesticated in a Maori hut. We were soon on the move, and woke our host to prepare a dish of potatoes before we started. Four sticks of tobacco was received in full payment for ourselves and porters, whose appetites are never very deficient in intensity. The banks become somewhat more cultivated as we advance and the population increases; the neighbourhood of a good market evidently acting as a stimulus. A few convolvuli now appear, almost the only flowers we have seen; but oh! what a contrast to the sweet scented richly clothed banks of dear Old England. We have just passed a fine view of Tongariro capped with snow; inferior, however, to the snowy ranges of the middle island. As we descend, the stream becomes much wider, the land on either side more unclothed, and the soil poorer. Shortly before sunset we reached the town of Petre, and much regretted to learn that the influenza had visited the inhabitants and ruthlessly prostrated them right and left, happily without any mortality.

We were more fortunate in our calculations than on a former occasion, for we arrived in time to join the Sunday services. During the three days we remained here to recruit we took an opportunity of visiting one or two farms on the right bank, and also one of some note on the left. In the former case, we traversed a sandy district covered with fern of a middling growth, the narrow intervening valleys and lowlands being swampy, but if capable of being drained likely to produce good crops, though what we saw upon the neighbouring slopes were certainly but indifferent. Mr. W.'s farm is similar in character to what has been described; it is situated on a lagoon and has a considerable quantity of land enclosed, but we did not see anything particularly deserving of observation. Next day we turned our attention to a farm belonging to Capt. C. and Mr. C, not far removed from the coast, and in favour of which we had heard much. We had a very pleasant canter of 6 miles, principally on high table land, until we reached an extensive lagoon, on the banks of which the farm is situated amid some of the very finest flax we had yet seen. We had passed Mr. C. on the road, but were very hospitably received by Capt. C, who most kindly accompanied us all over his farm, readily affording us the fullest information on every point which suggested itself for inquiry. Influenza had seized and paralysed the whole of the family and the yellow harvest looked in vain for reapers. There was a large quantity of ground under cultivation, the wheat, of which there were various kinds, averaging from

30 bushels to the acre. The corn was only grown to supply the establishment: sheep, cattle, and horses principally occupied attention. We were both of us much pleased with what we had seen, and this was, without doubt, the best managed estate that had come under our notice.

Having made our arrangement for starting we paid our porters in full, though we were strongly urged by the Rev. Mr. T. not to do so, as their conduct had been so indifferent, and moreover it was chiefly owing to them, and perhaps to our own unwise liberality, that we had been subject to such imposition. Nearly all who have travelled in more civilized parts than those we went over have, hitherto, given a good account of the reception they have met with, and therefore it may be no excess of humility to believe that the fault principally rested with us: be that as it may, I have painted the portrait from life, "nothing extenuating, nor setting down aught in malice;" if the lineaments are sometimes harsh, at other times they are such as to excite admiration. Indeed, though the reality was not such as my fancy had painted, and where enthusiasm runs ahead of reflection it seldom is, still, if phrenology be based upon truth, the intellectual capacity of the Maori is by no means inferior to his high physical developement. If the reader has formed a low estimate of the man as he is here depicted, I beg him to bear in mind that the painter has a nervous and impatient touch, and that his delineation has been chiefly confined to those

features which circumstances called into exercise, while a more prolonged and intimate acquaintance would have brought forth others to form a pleasing contrast, and thereby would have produced a more truthful as well as acceptable production. I dare say, had we been able freely to converse with the Maoris, and to adapt ourselves somewhat to their customs, we should have seen more to admire and less to annoy.

Our last visit at Whanganui was in the direction we had taken before we started for Taranaki; the object was to inspect a piece of ground generously given by two chiefs George King and John Williams, frank and kind-hearted looking fellows, for purposes connected with an industrial school, in which European and Maori children would associate: it is very pleasantly situated on a high table land, about 3 miles removed from the left bank of the river; the soil appeared very rich, with a considerable amount of timber at one corner and a rivulet below.

Our excellent landlord ascertaining that we were desirous of varying our route homewards kindly volunteered to shew us something of the interior of the country. We crossed over the river and took leave of our two shipmates, in the earnest hope that the labours to which they have devoted themselves might abundantly prosper in their hands.

Our direction was now parallel with the coast at the distance of 4 or 5 miles. We passed over a good grazing country though deficient of bush, for about 15 miles,

until we reached the Whangaehu. The country between this river and the Turakina is particularly fine, especially the native reserves, abundantly provided with bush, and well adapted for sheep and cattle. We forded the Turakina opposite Mr. C.'s farm; the bottom was hard and gravelly, Mr. C.'s section comprises some of the finest land in the country; flax and toi-toi abundant and luxuriant, bush close at hand and to any amount, and water convenient. There was a large quantity of ground under wheat cultivation, in fact, everything looked in a thriving condition, and there were several little homesteads in the immediate neighbourhood. Continuing our journey, we passed through many miles of very fair grazing land. Approaching the Rangitiki river, we came upon the remarkably fine grazing districts appropriated by some Wellington residents, situated in a well timbered and watered valley. Evening had closed in, and it was necessary to push on to reach a friend's who had just purchased some land in the neighbourhood; unfortunately he had but just arrived, and unwilling to disturb him and add to the inevitable discomforts attending such a movement, we took a stirrup cup, and pushed on towards the coast. On reaching Mr. M.'s farm, sorely tried with a 40 mile ride, encumbered with our carpet-bags, &c, we readily accepted a kind invitation from the lady of the house (Mr. C. being in town,) to put up for the night. That ever ready welcome which I have so often noticed attended us on the present occasion, and though it was late at night, nothing could exceed the attention we re-

ceived, and the self-denial which was exhibited in supplying our wants. Our advent was welcomed by others also, for our sufferings this night from the mosquitoes were dreadful; an endless buzzing and biting put sleep out of the question, and we arose at the very earliest break of day to proceed to the inn at the mouth of the river.

We reached what had formerly been our house of refuge at too early an hour, for silence reigned supreme as on the former occasion. Our arrival soon aroused our host, who speedily provided us with an excellent breakfast, and giving the horses a feed of corn, we crossed the river, and stood on the spot sacred to our first night's encampment. We retraced the road by which we had advanced, and of course met with no incidents worthy of narration, except an interesting conversation we held on the beach for half an hour with a gentlemanly well informed stranger, whom we subsequently learned was the governor.

The mosquitoe jubilee still continued. On dismounting at Otaki, to open the gate at the bridge, we and our horses were attacked so violently by countless myriads, that we could scarcely effect our purpose, the horses lashing out, and both our hands being occupied in sweeping the stinging intruders off our faces. The position they had taken up evinced consummate generalship. The village was covered with a dense smoke, with the evident intention of putting the mosquitoes to a distant flight, but the haze appeared only to have the effect of quickening their

energies. On reaching Rauperaha's we found a smouldering fire lighted at the very threshold and the house dark with smoke; we were led into a room where a candle could scarcely emit a ray of light, and it was difficult to decide which was the most unbearable, the unbreathable atmosphere or these envenomed wretches; the latter however were obliged to evacuate and allow us to enjoy a good night's rest.

The early morning Church bell roused us from our slumbers, and we hastened to prepare for our last day's journey. Rauperaha on his return from Church insisted upon our taking an early breakfast with him, and also upon my paying a final visit to the mill, in the erection of which he is taking a very great interest. I readily acceded, and we walked together to the spot, about a mile and a half from the village, R. laughing and joking with the people we met proceeding to their work. I was much surprised at the great progress which had been made during my short absence. The fitting of the machinery is of course all under European superintendence, and the labour of the natives is principally directed to excavating a new channel for the stream. There were about a hundred people present, men, women, and children. Having hastily inspected the work I was about to depart, when I was led to a mound opposite the spot where they were, and as an occasion for a debate is never lost, I soon found that the present was seized upon. It was commenced by R. who expatiated on England, making reference to my immediate return. On his ceas-

ing, a chief on the opposite bank took up the discourse, and in a speech delivered very fluently and with considerable action, remarked that Great Britain had conferred innumerable blessings on New Zealand, for which he and his countrymen were grateful; that our religious unity was in happy keeping with our political union under Queen Victoria, and that he sincerely hoped the same loyalty would continue to be evinced by the Maoris to their chiefs above and below. Two or three other speakers said a few words, and I was requested to reply. I merely acknowledged a full reciprocation of the sentiments which they had expressed, and gave utterance to the pleasure I had experienced in finding that the weapons of war had been exchanged for the implements of husbandry, and complimented them on their advance in civilization in comparison with any other natives I had met with. R. translated my speech, and after adding a few words of his own, invited them to shake me by the hand. A rush across the channel which divided us ensued, and man and woman, in tumultuous disarray, lifting their caps, yielded to the impulse of the moment. It was really an interesting sight, and I mentally contrasted this exhibition with what I had lately experienced in other places; I recalled the past history of this tribe and its late headship, and contrasted both with what I now saw; the resulting impressions were highly pleasing.

Placing our carpet-bags on our solitary horse we walked out right well, and reached Scotch Jock's by one o'clock, very much fatigued and I, for the first time, very

foot-sore. An excellent dinner was soon provided, and we were not long before we commenced the ascent of the range which divided us from Port Nicholson.

We learned that a horse, that had been shut in the stable during the previous night, had been almost driven mad from the attacks of the mosquitoes, which had been most unusually active; apparently they had vacated the field to the sand flies, which actually covered our hands as fast as we swept them away. It was impossible to reach Wellington before midnight even had we been able to endure the fatigue, so we put up at a small inn at Puhatunui, about 12 miles in advance. Rest we had none, for though we shut ourselves in a room filled with smoke, the mosquitoes had been before us and declined at that late hour to budge one inch, and in consequence our sufferings, from the incessant buzzing and sharp incisions, were beyond anything I had yet endured. At 3 1/2 a. m., long before day-break we had to rush out into the open air when the sand flies took up the morning tale until we got into rapid motion.

We trudged along merrily this morning, certain of reaching Wellington, and quite indifferent to the deluge of rain which welcomed us half way. It was the 13th anniversary of the Wellington settlers, but the rain sadly interfered with the usual sports, which consisted of boat and horse racing. I had been absent 5 weeks, and truly rejoiced at finding myself at home in N.'s comfortable boarding house below the Thorndon flats.

On taking leave of Otaki, I bear away with me a deep

sense of the kindness I have experienced there, and of the blessings which have been produced among the inhabitants, and the Maoris generally, by the introduction of Christianity and civilization. I have not had any opportunity of seeing a heathen village; but, accepting as correct the published accounts of the previous state of the aboriginals, the change now visible must be highly gratifying to all who have been concerned in its production: at the same time I cannot but arrive, with Mr. Fox and others, at the melancholy conclusion, that the race is rapidly on the decline, and that the medicine which would have restored to health had it been applied at an earlier period, and under more favourable circumstances, has now but a collapsed subject for the exhibition of its efficiency! I most sincerely and devoutly wish that it were otherwise, for there are present in the Maori character many of the essential materials of civilization. Disease, in forms before unknown, has supplied the place of desolating wars, and the other numerous and fearful causes which were operating towards premature decay. Energies which formerly had their developement in intestine commotion have not been diverted into other and health-giving channels. The introduction of the potatoe has provided the means of satisfying the appetite at the smallest expenditure of labour; maize, used in a state of incipient putrefaction, vitiates the blood; tobacco, in general and lavish use by all classes, and both sexes, disorders the digestion; the immense quantity of available land in proportion to the population, by encouraging migratory

habits, denies the exercise of those feelings and principles which are so beneficial in their influence; the vast civil and ecclesiastical distinctions which formerly existed have disappeared, and there is now no exercise for the mind; all are on a level, or nearly so, for property is so infinitesimally divided that it is almost impossible to define its existence. The Maoris look beyond themselves for the restraining power which the chief by his tapu, his position, or his possession of slaves, could exert; and the priest, by the estimation in which he was held as influential with the gods, or by the possession of the power of sorcery, could exercise: the man in consequence stagnates, and unfortunately has not the necessary stamina for the transition from barbarism to civilization.

It is a sad ingredient in this unhappy state that this fatal impression has possessed itself of the native mind, for, as Dr. Dieffenbach observes, the extinction of the native rat by his European fellow forms a constant and favourite theme of conversation as likely to be paralleled in the substitution of the European for the Maori. View the civilized native in his civilized abode, and you will observe that, with one or two exceptions, the house is far in advance of the man; it has been erected as a charm, as a civilizing medium, but in vain; and is not seldom, as I know, left untenanted, while the old hut, on a level with the ground, with its 2 feet square opening answering for door, window, and chimney, is his favourite resort. His European dress is exchanged for the blanket when he wishes to be at his ease; and wrapping it

around him, he will leave the confined atmosphere of his own house and creeping, at the break of day, to the Church, sit chilled and apathetic during the service, except where the presence of a missionary acts as a constant and healthy stimulus. No enthusiasm relieves the tedium of his necessary daily work, while his wife is allowed to toil under a burthen which staggers her as she walks, or exhausts her in the occupations of the field.

As a distinctive people their sun is set; barbarism was smothering them in blood when Christianity and civilization stepped in, arrested the desolating plague, but found the race paralysed and impotent. Fusion of the races is impracticable and undesirable. Condensation of the population appears, to my mind, the only effectual mode in which a remedy could have been successfully applied, and condensation in immediate contiguity with a thriving European population. The expiring fire must be rekindled, the energies revivified, competition brought into play, immediate returns repaying the expenditure of labour, and a more unfettered freedom of thought and action. Evils will attend this process, missionary influence will be lessened; but still I believe that, if the experiment be capable of proof, the result would be the production of a character not unworthy of a comparison with the higher classes of Christian civilization.

CHAPTER IX.

CHAPTER IX.

THE summer's excursion has now closed, and the sun, having touched its southern bound, is now moving northward to revisit other lands, and bids me travel with it to the fast anchored isle of the distant west. When I bade adieu to the chalky cliffs of Old England, the golden crops were inviting the reaper's hand; on sighting the snow-capped summits of the New Zealand ranges the summer's sun was already filling the swelling ears and promising a rich and plenteous harvest; and now, again, I stand amid the fields of ripening corn in the land of the brave and the free. Almost within the year the globe has been embraced, and the islands of the east and west have been gazed on while clothed in their gayest garb. Does the contrast dishearten or dull the enthusiasm which invested the former with charms sufficiently powerful to allure me to undertake so distant a voyage? Looking simply to personal enjoyment, there is no question where life would present the most attractions; but looking to the future of a family, and reaping the rich fruits which the consciousness of a compliance with the claims of duty will ever yield, there can be still less doubt which is to be preferred.

If there is one point I would wish to impress more

thoroughly than another, it is the necessity that the intending colonist should look beyond the present: not that I would disparage the enjoyments which the well regulated mind can extract under any circumstances, and still less those solid rewards which constant employment, in an excellent climate, cannot fail to afford; yet there are deprivations which must inevitably be his lot, and to face which manfully will be his interest as well as his duty.

The time is not so remote but that many may remember it, when to travel beyond the limits of our sea-girt coast was considered to be an act of no ordinary curiosity; when the journey from the metropolis to the land's end warranted the setting of one's bouse in order; and when voluntary expatriation never entered the head of a sound judging Englishman; but now "a change has come o'er the spirit of our dream," distance has been annihilated, a Briton's home is beneath the shadow of his flag which floats where'er the breezes blow; he encompasses the globe with infinitely less doubt than he once spanned the breadth of his own isle, and he can denationalize himself with as much facility as he formerly could dissolve a city partnership. Still there are those who cannot look for the last time on the smiling plains of their own island home without a deep-drawn sigh, who cannot grasp the friendly hand which they may never again hold without deep emotion, or watch the glistening eye and choking utterances of suppressed affection without a pang; the village bell sounds in their ear the knell of departing joys, the yeoman's hearty farewell speaks of ties

they may never form again, and in every sound and in every prospect they hear and see the language of associations deeply intertwined with their very being; thus feeling, they may falter but not faint, for they console themselves with the reflection that

"True happiness has no localities,
No tones provincial, no peculiar garb.
Where duty went, she went; with justice went,
And went with meekness, charity, and love.
Where'er a pious act was done, or breathed
A pious prayer, or wished a pious wish,
There was a high and holy place, a spot
Of sacred light, a most religious fane
Where happiness, descending, sat and smiled."

Is this picture drawn in too sombre a tint? does it convey an idea of self immolation, a casting oneself beneath the car of Juggernauth for a future blessing? if such be the impression conveyed the artist is but a clumsy limner. There are pleasures of no ordinary stamp which a colonial life alone can afford, to say nothing of the health-giving, energizing influence of successful operations beneath an Italian sky. We might dwell on the nobler joys attending the developement of an infant settlement, and by anticipation view its emergence into the maturity of the parent state; or picture the country, by nature so well adapted for the change, covered with elegant mansions and well planned homesteads, pleasingly diversified by rich pastures, waving crops, and stately woods; or view, revived as of old, the village Church with its ac-

companying blessings permeating and sanctifying the surrounding poor; all these we might prospectively enjoy, not as possible, or even probable, but as assured realities; but there are other sources of pleasure the possession of which he may at once enter on. Among them might be enumerated the blessed freedom from all the extreme conventionalities of an over etherealised state of society, a freedom confined only within the heaven-born rule which inculcates our loving our neighbour as ourselves; a state, where to labour is no disgrace, and to educate a family so as to enliven and adorn the domestic hearth and not the theatre of the world alone, is no wild chimera; where you may mount your horse and roam amid the wide-spread prairies without a reference to the latest rules of taste and fashion, or be in agonies lest your coat or your bonnet should catalogue you as a denizen of a bygone age; where the friendly shake is in general the language of a friendly heart, and sympathy is not measured by the breadth of the sable-bordered note of condolence: in fine, where the interchange of social kindness is more especially regarded as the natural condition of humanity. These are among the happy ingredients which compose a colonial life: but we must turn to other subjects, and give a few cautionary hints.

"Which settlement do you recommend?" is a question that is often asked, but one which I cannot satisfactorily answer, for I have only visited three out of the six; but should the colonist visit Canterbury in the first instance he cannot go far astray; and if his means should

not admit of his personally investigating the claims of Wellington, Nelson, and New Plymouth, which lie contiguous, he may settle down at once under the conviction that he cannot have erred materially; but should his funds allow, he will do well to visit these settlements, and Otago to the south, and Auckland to the North, before he localizes his capital. Steamers now are, or shortly will be, puffing through the straits, and his wish may be gratified at no great expenditure of time and money.

If the colonist is a labourer, or a mechanic, without any extraordinary qualification for a town life, I would most earnestly invite him to press forward to the interior: if he roots himself in the town, his change to the antipodes will have done him little good, for he will enjoy abundant leisure and abundant facilities for reviving his alehouse associations and pursuits; while in the country he must accumulate his savings and eventually emerge into a substantial cattle or land farmer.

"What preparation for the voyage do you recommend?" is another question which is often put. As little as cleanliness and comfort will admit of. Avoid all superfluities, but procure from a first-rate establishment what you do purchase; eschew slop-shops and temptation to buy what does not appear in your well and leisurely adopted list of necessities. A shilling saved is a shilling gained. Do not burthen yourself with the lumber of agricultural, farming, or household implements, nor snail-like carry your house on your back; by

the time you have located yourself, such articles will have cost you a sum which you would be overjoyed to realize for them. Let your worldly goods be in the shape of money, in good bills, or insured gold. Select a ship belonging to, or chartered by a well established firm, and when on board do your utmost to add to the general comfort, and detract from the unavoidable inconveniences.

After you have selected your settlement, be slow in deciding on a locality. A hasty decision may involve the total overthrow of all your well planned schemes. Be cautious and inquiring; visit freely, collect data, compare accounts, and when the decision is made, do not fancy you might have done better, but set doggedly to work and do your best in the position in which you find yourself.

Perhaps a well intended hint not to overlook religious advantages may be pardoned, when the reader is assured that it arises not from any overweening presumption or vainly imagined superiority of religious belief and practice; far, very far different are the writer's feelings in such an allusion, for he is but too painfully alive to the deadening influence of continued mental and physical employment, and the absence or negation of religious privileges, to use other language than that of kindly suggestion. If life be a journey, a state of probation for eternity, and though it may be overlooked or dismissed from the mind, can it be denied? then religion may justly claim our first, most earnest, and most unceasing attention. The

words of Sir Walter Scott, in the Hymn of the Hebrew Maid, when the harp of Judah hung on the willows by Babylon's streams, and when in her lonely isolation she fondly dwelt on the period blessed by a pillar of cloud as a guide both by day and by night, may very properly be recalled by the colonist amid the silent solitudes of the distant east.

But present still, though now unseen! –
When brightly shines the prosperous day,
Be thoughts of THEE a cloudy screen
To temper the deceitful ray.
And, oh! when stoops on Judah's path,
In shade and storm the frequent night,
Be THOU, long suffering, slow to wrath,
A burning and a shining light."

APPENDIX.

APPENDIX.

(a)

If the reader is desirous of further information on this interesting colony, he will receive a fair return for the investment of his capital in purchasing any of the following works, which furnished the author with much that is valuable. These are mentioned, not to the exclusion of others, but only because they have come under his observation.

Among the late works may be noticed Dr. Dieffenbach's "New Zealand," in two volumes, which is so replete with much that is of high value, that you rise from its perusal with a feeling of disappointment, and regret that the observations of the author did not extend beyond the northern island. The "Hand-book of New Zealand," by a late magistrate of the colony, is prepared with abundant diligence, research, and judgment; in it are many valuable hints for the colonist who does not intend to cast books to the dogs when he assumes the shears, the stock whip, or the axe: it would be impossible to give a more minute and correct description of the Wellington district than is there given; it is a photographic picture. "Earp's Hand-book for intending Emigrants" contains a mass of valuable hints and sound suggestions. "Hursthouse's

New Zealand" possesses an abundance of information and cautions presented in a pleasing form. "Fox's Six Settlements," and a work by the Secretary of the Aborigines' Protection Society, will also repay a perusal. A writer in a later number of the Quarterly recommends "L'Univers Pittoresque," by Mr. Domeugde Rienzi, as most excellent. There is no scarcity of provisions, but it should be remembered that unless digested the reader will derive little nourishment from his literary diet. If emigration is one of the most important steps in a man's life, he may well pause before he takes it, and collect materials for information; and analyse, compare, and digest them. By such a process he will find, even in the best authors, much to reject and much to curtail; let him rub them against each other, and the sparks of truth will be elicited to illumine his darkness. Unframe the picture, sober down the rich and lavish tints; survey the bushman's hardships, the shepherd's solitary musings, and the stockman's unceasing toil, when you read of balmy breezes, and sylvan retreats, the cattle upon a thousand hills, and the corn and wine of a second Canaan. Such an investigation will invigorate and season you for the stern realities of colonial life.

One more caution, and this note, already of fearful dimensions, closes. Consider him to be your soundest adviser who warns you to take as much money as possible, not tons of new inventions and "very useful articles," to the colony, and to keep it until you have obtained some experience by, at least, a short colonial residence.

(b)

A METEOROLOGICAL TABLE, formed from various sources, embracing London and the extremes and central Settlements of New Zealand.

A METEOROLOGICAL TABLE, formed from various sources, embracing London and the extremes and central Settlements of New Zealand.

(c)

POPULATION return of New Ulster, or the Northern Island, according to the Census of 1851.

POPULATION return of New Ulster, or the Northern Island, according to the Census of 1851.

POPULATION return of New Munster and New Leinster, or the Middle and Southern Islands, including a return of the three Islands, according to the Census of 1851.

POPULATION return of New Munster and New Leinster, or the Middle and Southern Islands, including a return of the three Islands, according to the Census of 1851.

N. B. The Natives may fee reckoned at 70, 000; all of whom, with the exception of about 2000, are in the northern Island: the number of Christians is reported to he 50 or 60000.

Return of the LIVE STOCK in New Ulster or the Northern Island, according to the Census of 1851.

Return of the LIVE STOCK in New Ulster or the Northern Island, according to the Census of 1851.

A return of LIVE STOCK in New Munster and New Leinster, or the Middle and Southern Islands, including a return of the three Islands, according to the Census of 1851.

A return of LIVE STOCK in New Munster and New Leinster, or the Middle and Southern Islands, including a return of the three Islands, according to the Census of 1851.

(d)

Statement of PROFITS realizable from 1000 Ewes with a due proportion of Rams this flock, with initial stock yard expenses, involving an outlay of £1200.

Statement of PROFITS realizable from 1000 Ewes with a due proportion of Rams this flock, with initial stock yard expenses, involving an outlay of £1200.

A glance at the subjoined memoranda will shew in what manner the preceding table was formed. The amount of Ewes and Lambs sold annually depends upon the state of the markets, one's own necessity, the desirableness of reducing the Ewes, &c. The price of saleable stock is fixed at 10s. which, considering the fluctuation of the market, and the mixed nature of the sales, may be regarded as a fair average.

[Profits from sheep farming]

ERRATA.

Page 13, line 4. north west instead of north east.
24, " " 8. add of after some.
31, " " 5. have instead of has.
62, " " 19. conglomerate instead of conglomerate.
139, " " 11. acreage instead of average.

William Roberts, Printer, 197, High Street, Exeter.

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