Auckland, the Capital of New Zealand

William Swainson

First published by Smith, Elder and Co.; J. Williamson in 1853

Digitised and made available online by the University of Auckland Libraries and Learning Services.

Epub © 2013 Early New Zealand Books Collection

ISBN 978-1-927279-99-1

[MAP]

Map of the Auckland District, 1852

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[HALFTITLE]

AUCKLAND,

THE CAPITAL OF NEW ZEALAND,

AND THE

COUNTRY ADJACENT.

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[FRONTISPIECE]

[Inserted picture page]

VIEW OF AUCKLAND
P.J. Hogan del. Colonial Hospital, Scotch Church, St. Paul's Church, Barracks, Wesleyan Chapel, R.C. Church, Ford & West imp.

[PREFACE]

PREFACE.

But a very few years have elapsed since New Zealand became a dependency of the Crown; yet, having been the field on which several schemes of colonization have been tried, it is more generally known than many of our older and more important colonies. Even the names of some of its numerous settlements are by no means unfamiliar to the public ear. "Wellington" and "Nelson" were both founded under powerful patronage. "Taranaki" was heard of in the far west; "Otago" beyond the Tweed; and "Canterbury," was as familiar as a household word, both in London and the Provinces. "Auckland," comparatively unknown, has, meanwhile, been growing in the shade. It being, however, the most important settlement in the country, and now also, by means of the Panama route, about to become the nearest of our Australasian posses-

PREFACE.

sions; a gold-field, moreover, having been recently discovered in its neighbourhood, the public may desire to learn some particulars of its history; and these pages are designed to afford the needful information.

A description of Auckland may not improperly be prefaced by some mention of its founder; and the following brief review of his career, if but a trifling, is at least a truthful, tribute to the memory of a meritorious, but ill-requited public officer.

In attempting to describe the position of AUCKLAND, the writer has cited various competent and independent authorities; yet nothing but a map of the district can convey to the distant reader an adequate conception of its fitness for the site of an extensive settlement.

The most diligent reader of colonial intelligence will learn with surprise, that nearly one-third of the European population in New Zealand are settled within sight of Auckland. The progress made by the district in agricultural pursuits; the value and variety of its exports; the amount of its shipping, and of the trade and commerce of its port, will also be surprising to many.

The climate of New Zealand, as it has been described, frequently disappoints at first, and for a time, the new arrival. An attempt has here been

PREFACE

made to describe it as it will be found to be; and, thanks to the valuable contributions of an accurate observer, the chapter devoted to the subject of the Climate will be found to contain much interesting information with reference to its sanative character.

In the fifth chapter it is believed that the inhabitants of Auckland will recognise a correct picture of its "Social and Domestic" phase.

Of the recent gold discovery in its immediate neighbourhood, it has been the object of the writer to place on record a faithful narrative.

In matters of taste, opinions will always differ; and although the chapter on "Bush-travelling in New Zealand" may appear to some to be too highly coloured, yet if "he best can paint them who has felt them most," the following picture of its pleasures should be faithful to the life.

"Night and Morning" does but feeble justice to a noble theme. In able hands the "Past and Present" of New Zealand, would make one of the most interesting pages in the annals of our history. But the concluding chapter will at least suffice to show that a curious problem in the history of the human race is now being solved in the islands of New Zealand.

[TITLE PAGE]

AUCKLAND,
THE CAPITAL OF NEW ZEALAND,

AND THE
COUNTRY ADJACENT:
INCLUDING SOME ACCOUNT OF
THE GOLD DISCOVERY IN NEW ZEALAND.

* * * "A good land, a land of brooks of water, of fountains and depths that spring out of valleys and hills; a land of wheat and barley, and vines, and fig trees, and pomegranates; a land of oil-olive, and honey; a land wherein thou shalt eat bread without scarceness, thou shalt not lack anything in it; a land whose stones are iron, and out of whose hills thou mayest dig brass."

"Their land is also full of silver and gold, neither is there any end of their treasures."

With a Map of the Auckland District,

FROM RECENT SURVEYS.

LONDON:
SMITH, ELDER & CO., 65, CORNHILL.
AUCKLAND: i J. WILLIAMSON.
1853.

[On next unpaginated page]

London:

Printed by STEWART and MURRAY,

Old Bailey.

[CONTENTS]

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.

THE FIRST GOVERNOR OF NEW ZEALAND.

A glance at Captain Hobson's administration of the affairs of New Zealand...... Page 1

CHAPTER II. POSITION, &C. OF AUCKLAND.

Captain Hobson's description of the position of Auckland, and his reasons for selecting it as the site for the capital of New Zealand – Nature of the country, and character of the soil – The position of its two harbours – The extent of its water communication with the interior of the country – Governor Grey's description of the available character of the land in the neighbourhood – Resemblance to the site of Corinth – Reasons for which it was determined by the British Government that Auckland should be the seat of the Government of the colony...... Page 11

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER III. AUCKLAND AND ITS NEIGHBOURHOOD.

The city of Auckland – The harbour – The suburbs – Agriculture – Exports – Shipping – Commerce – The isthmus – State and progress of the district .... Page 27

CHAPTER IV. THE CLIMATE.

The climate – Its salubrity – Superiority over Continental climates – Comparison with the climate and weather of England – Seasons for fruits and flowers – Temperature, &c, of the various months ..... Page 44

CHAPTER V. AUCKLAND – SOCIAL AND DOMESTIC.

Auckland society – Amusements – New arrivals – Cost of living – Value of native labour – Arrival of an "English mail" – Delay in the transmission of mails – The advantages to Auckland of the Panama steam line – Arrival of a "box from England" – Business and occupations of the people – Summary. Page 64

CHAPTER VI. THE GOLD DISCOVERY.

Emigration from Auckland to the neighbouring gold fields – False reports of gold being found in New Zealand – Offer of reward

CONTENTS.

of. £500 for the discovery of gold in the Auckland district – Discovery of gold at Coromandel Harbour within forty miles of Auckland – Geological character of the Coromandel district – Uneasiness of the natives – Difficult position of the Government, the gold being found on native lands – Progress of the discovery – Government proclamation – Measures contemplated by the Executive – "Te Taniwha" – Arrangements made by the Lieutenant-Governor with the natives at the meeting held at Coromandel – Government regulations – Quantity of gold found – Sale of gold by auction – Hopes and fears – Description of the specimens, &c – Prospects – Conclusion... Page 85

CHAPTER VII. BUSH TRAVELLING IN NEW ZEALAND.

Convenient situation of Auckland as a starting point – Water communication in every direction – New Zealand scenery – River travelling – Overland journey to Wellington and back again – The Waikato and the Waipa – The descent of the Wanganui – The Horikiwi Valley, and road into Wellington – Coast route homewards – Scenery – Equipment and practical directions for travelling in the bush – Sights by the way – Advantages, &c, of travelling...... Page 115

CHAPTER VIII. "NIGHT AND MORNING." THE "PAST AND PRESENT" OF NEW ZEALAND.

The early colonization of New Zealand – Interesting nature of the undertaking – Present condition of the natives – Their progress – Their present state compared with that of 1836 – Speech of a native at a missionary meeting – Representative institutions – Future prospects..... Page 136

CONTENTS.

APPENDIX.

Proclamation – Discovery of gold – Agreement with natives – Provisional regulations .... Page 155

CHAPTER I.

AUCKLAND,

THE CAPITAL OF NEW ZEALAND,

AND THE

COUNTRY ADJACENT.

CHAPTER I.

The first Governor of New Zealand.

The following sketch of the Capital of New Zealand may not improperly be accompanied by a brief notice of its founder.

It may be remembered that the British Government undertook the colonization of the Islands of New Zealand with great reluctance; for, although alive to their importance, they believed that such a measure would be fraught with calamity to a numerous and inoffensive people. But when it was seen that the country had become the resort of a number of lawless characters; that an irregular species of colonization was already going on, "without law," and "fatal to the natives;" that the New Zealanders were improvidently divesting themselves of their

AUCKLAND AND THE COUNTRY ADJACENT.

territorial possessions; the British Government then undertook, but "with extreme reluctance," its systematic colonization; and, in order to avert from the natives the disasters which threatened them, and to rescue the settlers themselves from the evils of a lawless state of society, it was resolved to adopt the most effective measures for establishing amongst them a settled form of civil government. To accomplish this design was the principal object of Captain Hobson's New Zealand mission.

The duty thus imposed upon him was of no ordinary character – infinitely more arduous than that of governing an old established colony. Before a British colony could be founded in New Zealand everything was yet to be done. The sovereignty over the country was to be obtained by treaty from the natives; territory for the occupation of our countrymen was to be acquired; and the necessary machinery of civil government was to be organized and set in motion. Nor, under the peculiar circumstances of the country, was the establishment of British authority in New Zealand an easy or a popular task. Its native inhabitants are a high-spirited, independent, well-armed, warlike race. A large portion of the European population, too, consisting chiefly of indifferent characters from the neighbouring penal colonies, had long been living in a state of utter lawlessness. To curb and restrain by the strong arm of the law, where all restraint had been unknown – where every man had been a law unto himself – and to put a stop to all private deal-

ADMINISTRATION OF CAPTAIN HOBSON.

ings with the natives for the purchase of their lands, could be no popular duty for the minister of peace. Such, however, was the nature of the service in which Captain Hobson was engaged.

And what were the results of his mission? In the interval between January 1840 and September 1842, during his administration of the affairs of the colony, in the several characters of Consul, Lieutenant-Governor, and Governor, the sovereignty over the country was obtained by treaty from the native chiefs; considerable tracts of land became, by purchase, demesnes of the Crown; the machinery of government, legislative and executive, was organized and put in action; courts of law were established; and enactments were passed to provide for the administration of justice, and to adapt the English laws of real property to the circumstances of the infant colony.

At the commencement of Captain Hobson's career as British Consul, New Zealand was acknowledged to be an independent state. Its native inhabitants were a wild and lawless race; its European occupants were unrestrained by any law, and amenable to no tribunal, and had been alternately the authors and the victims of every species of crime and outrage. At the close of his administration as Governor, the New Zealanders were adopting European habits, many of them yielding a willing obedience to our laws, and generally abandoning the barbarous customs of their race; and the islands of New Zealand, so recently the land of barbarism, had become a dependency of

AUCKLAND AND THE COUNTRY ADJACENT.

the British Crown, where, by means of capital and enterprise, agriculture and commerce had taken root, and where, within the limits of our settlements, life and property were as secure as in the most civilized country in the world.

To protect the New Zealanders in their persons, and in the peaceable enjoyment of their possessions, was also made the special duty of the Queen's representative. And if the native inhabitants of these islands shall escape the fate which has hitherto attended uncivilized tribes when brought into the vicinity of civilized men, they will owe something to the inflexible sense of justice of their "Friend the Governor," who, while living, enjoyed their esteem, and won their confidence, and whose paternal government is still held by them in respectful remembrance.

Another important duty which devolved upon the first Governor of New Zealand was to decide upon the most eligible site for founding a British settlement; and impartial men who have had the opportunity of forming a judgment from personal knowledge, unite in their opinion of the wisdom of his choice.

But by the honest and judicious discharge of this duty, he drew upon himself the bitter hostility of a private association, then recently formed for planting settlements in New Zealand. Although it had been distinctly stated, before their first expedition set sail from England, that her Majesty's Government had no connection with the society described as the

HOSTILITY OF THE NEW ZEALAND COMPANY.

New Zealand Company, nor any knowledge of their proceedings, and that the Government could hold out no expectation that her Majesty would be advised to recognise or sanction them, yet they were disappointed that the site chosen by their agent for their first and principal settlement was not adopted by Captain Hobson for the site of the principal settlement of the Crown; overlooking the fact that the one was chosen with reference to the permanent interests of New Zealand as a British colony, while the other was selected with reference to the temporary interests, the limited means, and the present views, of a private association, whose proceedings had not then received either the sanction or recognition of the Crown. Closely followed, too, by several hundreds of their settlers, who left England without knowing in what part of these islands they would be allowed to find a footing, the leader of the New Zealand Company's exploring expedition had no time to spare for the making of his choice. Many harbours, moreover, were already pre-occupied by speculators still earlier in the field. Thus, in the selection of a site, the New Zealand Company were limited to yet unoccupied localities; while Captain Hobson, as the representative of the Crown, had all before him where to choose.

Looking to the nature of the duties he had to perform, it is not surprising that he met with the most violent hostility, and that he was assailed with the most rancorous abuse. By abandoning what he believed to be his duty he might have laid the storm;

AUCKLAND AND THE COUNTRY ADJACENT.

by bending before it he might have escaped its force; but he was one of those intrepid spirits who "will either subsist by the integrity of their actions, or perish." The most strenuous efforts were made by his opponents in the colony, backed by the influence of the most politically-powerful association in England, to effect his recall, but without success; and Captain Hobson, without any powerful family or Parliamentary connections – a gentleman who by his own professional merits had attained post-rank in her Majesty's Navy – continued to be Governor of New Zealand to the day of his death. Almost alone – looking in vain for despatches from home – failing in health – assailed with the bitterest abuse – and uncertain whether his proceedings would be approved by the ministers of the Crown – the last few months of his life were passed in a state of painful and harassing suspense.

Worn out by broken health, and by the cares of his difficult and critical position, Captain Hobson died, on the 10th of September, 1842. Had he lived but a few weeks longer, he would have been cheered by the knowledge that his general administration of the affairs of New Zealand was approved by her Majesty's Government, and that his selection of the site of the capital of New Zealand had received the sanction of the Crown. And he would have been further cheered by receiving from the Colonial Minister the assurance that, in all his transactions with the New Zealand Company, he might rely upon the support of her Majesty's Government

CLOSE OF GOVERNOR HOBSON'S CAREER.

against the "exaggerated pretensions" of the Company or their agents.

At the close of his earthly career, as at the close of the second Session of the Colonial Council, Captain Hobson might well have declared it to be a matter of pride "that he had had an opportunity of taking part in laying the foundation of the youngest and most distant, but by no means the least important dependency of the Crown." Probably no future Governor of New Zealand, at the close of his career, will receive a more gratifying tribute of respect from the natives than that which was paid to the memory of their first Governor by one of their greatest chiefs. "Mother Victoria," said he in a letter addressed to her Majesty after Captain Hobson's death, "my subject is a Governor for us and the foreigners of this island. Let him be a good man. Look out for a good man – a man of judgment. Let not a troubler come here – let not a boy come here, or one puffed up. Let him be a good man, as this Governor who has just died."

Removed beyond the reach of praise or blame, none will now deny that Captain Hobson had a novel and arduous duty to perform; that he laboured honestly and assiduously to discharge it; and that his services entitled him to the favourable consideration of his country.

To those who may visit the infant capital of New Zealand, a word will point out its founder's monument –

"CIRCUMSPICE."

AUCKLAND AND THE COUNTRY ADJACENT.

The founders of the Southern Settlements have now also ended their career; and their colonizing operations, when faithfully recorded, will form an instructive page in the annals of New Zealand.

Taking a broad and general view of their proceedings, it must be accorded to the New Zealand Company that, but for their timely and zealous efforts, New Zealand might have been lost to the dominion of the British Crown; that they hastened the measures too tardily taken for its colonization; and that they simultaneously colonized it at various points with some of the finest settlers who ever left the parent state.

Viewed more narrowly and in detail, their proceedings are deserving of a less favourable judgment. But a record of them ought to be faithfully preserved, if for no other purpose than to point this moral for the guidance of posterity, that Colonization, to be an "heroic work," cannot safely be entrusted to a body of private, irresponsible, projectors.

With reference to the New Zealand Company's second settlement in New Zealand, their Chairman, in his place in Parliament, made this candid statement: that the settlement at Nelson did not fulfil the strict letter of the law; that the scheme of it was not well advised; and that it had not answered the expectations either of the Company or of the settlers.

And at the close of their career, too, the results of the New Zealand Company's colonizing operations generally, were thus summed up in the Legislative

NEW ZEALAND COMPANY'S OPERATIONS.

Council of New Zealand, nemine contradicente: – that notwithstanding the ample means at their disposal, the Company had ended their career without having given a single legal title, to a single individual, of a single piece of land – leaving the whole of their engagements in respect of the disposal of land, during a period of twelve years, unfulfilled and uncompleted – leaving the old colony burdened with a quarter of a million of debt – leaving no agent or representative to assist in the winding up of their affairs – and leaving the Southern Province in such a state of confusion as to claims and titles to land, that it had become essential to its progress that means should be taken to ascertain what were the engagements which had been entered into by that Company, and to provide for their fulfilment and completion by the Colonial Government, at a cost, and in a manner, which, for years to come, could not fail injuriously to affect the progress and prosperity of the Province.

It must have been mortifying to many honourable men, who joined the New Zealand Association with no other object than to aid and take part in what they believed to be a laudable undertaking, to find its governing body charged before Parliament, however falsely, with having had recourse to questionable practices in the conduct of their affairs.

But it can hardly be a matter of surprise that they who have been officially made to appear as the authors of a suggestion that a treaty, made with the people of New Zealand in the name and on the

AUCKLAND AND THE COUNTRY ADJACENT.

behalf of the British Crown, might be set aside as but "a praiseworthy device to amuse and pacify savages for the moment," should, at the end of their career, be publicly charged with attempting to deceive their own New Zealand settlers by means of a deliberate suppression of the truth.

That Association will not, however, have existed in vain, if the experience of New Zealand shall teach the Imperial Government the lesson, which they have hitherto been but slow to learn – that the work of colonization cannot, consistently with the honour of the Crown, the character of the nation, the rights of aborigines, the interests of settlers, and the welfare of the Colony itself, be safely entrusted to a body of private individuals associated together for the purpose of buying, selling, and making a profit by the sale of the waste lands of the Crown.

CHAPTER II.

POSITION OF AUCKLAND.

CHAPTER II.

Position of Auckland – Nature of the country, and character of the soil – The position of its two harbours – Resemblance to the site of Corinth – -Reasons for which it was determined by the British Government that Auckland should be the seat of the Government of the Colony.

Without the aid of a map it would be difficult to convey anything like a distinct impression of the position of Auckland, begirt as it is by harbours, and forming a centre from which water-communication radiates, inland, in every direction.

This spot was fixed upon by Captain Hobson, as the site of the seat of Government of New Zealand, on account of its central position – its great facilities of internal water-communication – the facility and safety of its port – the proximity of several smaller ports abounding with valuable timber – and of the fertility of the soil. And further experience appears to have satisfied him of the wisdom of his choice. "I trust," he says, addressing the Secretary of State, "from the documents now in your Lordship's possession showing the site of Auckland to be on the

AUCKLAND AND THE COUNTRY ADJACENT.

shores of a harbour, safe and commodious, and easy of access, and within five miles of Manukau, certainly the best harbour on the whole of the western coast of New Zealand – within fifteen miles of the harbour of Kaipara, into which four considerable rivers discharge themselves – at no great distance from the Waikato, which waters the fertile and extensive plains of the Waipa, on the western side of the island – and the fertile valley of the Thames on the east; having, too, in its immediate neighbourhood, some hundreds of thousands of acres of level, open, fertile land, possessing abundant means of water-communication, and being in the centre of the bulk of a native population, now British subjects, rapidly assuming European habits, and acquiring a taste for our manufactures – your Lordship will be satisfied that this neighbourhood has been well chosen for the site of the seat of Government of New Zealand, and that it combines advantages for a large and prosperous agricultural and commercial settlement not elsewhere to be found in this colony." * * *

"With my present knowledge of New Zealand," he adds, "having for some time resided at the Bay of Islands – having visited Cook's Straits and Banks's Peninsula – and after seeing the Company's settlement formed at Port Nicholson – I do not hesitate to state my opinion that the neighbourhood of Auckland combines advantages for a very extensive and prosperous settlement not to be found in any other part of this colony."

In the First Report of the "Auckland Agricultural

ADVANTAGES OF ITS SITE.

Society," published not long after Captain Hobson's death, is to be found a somewhat similar description of the surrounding country. The Committee of that body describe this district as presenting "a more eligible field for agricultural operations than any other part of the colony, including, as it does, the two great basins of the Thames and the Waikato, which are occupied by plains of vast extent;" but it also possesses, they add, "a most extraordinary facility for internal communication by means of the harbours, estuaries, and rivers, which radiate from Auckland, the capital, as a centre; and all of which may be navigated, either by boats or canoes, to near their sources; and between most of which very short portages intervene, over which, from time immemorial, the natives have dragged their canoes without difficulty."

But these general descriptions, though drawn by competent and independent authorities, will convey to the mind little more than a vague general impression. Imagine, then, the island to be not unlike the figure of a wasp, with its small waist almost cut in two in the middle. This waist, or isthmus, is formed by a deep indentation on the Eastern Coast, known as the Gulf or Frith of the Thames; and by the extensive harbour of Manukau on the Western Coast, exactly opposite. For an extent of several miles the waters of these harbours are separated only by a narrow strip of land, or isthmus, about five miles broad. The Gulf of the Thames is protected from the sea by the "Barrier" Islands; it

AUCKLAND AND THE COUNTRY ADJACENT.

affords anchorage throughout its whole extent, and in ordinary weather, forms a vast harbour. It also comprises within its limits several inner harbours, easily accessible, commodious, and safe in all weathers. Coromandel Harbour, the Great Barrier, Matakana, Kawau, Mahurangi, Waiheke, and the Waitemata, afford safe anchorage to vessels of any size, in all weathers. Towards the southwestern extremity of the Gulf lies a group of ten or twelve islands: these islands stretch along in a south-east direction for nearly twenty miles, and shut in a long narrow estuary – the Waitemata – in which shelter and anchorage may at all times be found.

On the south shore of the western extremity of the Waitemata – being the north shore of the isthmus – stands the town of Auckland. So great is the extent of water-communication, that this isthmus is all but an island: for, some four or five miles to the west of the town, a branch of the Waitemata bends southwards until it reaches within little more than a mile of the Manukau; and about the same distance to the east of the town, the creek or river Tamaki penetrates in a southerly direction, until it reaches within less than a mile of a branch of the Manukau at Otahuhu. Twice in the twenty-four hours the numerous ramifications of the Tamaki afford water-carriage to the town to almost every settler in the district.

Ten or twelve miles to the eastward of the Tamaki Heads is the River Wairoa – navigable for about

EXTENT OF WATER COMMUNICATION.

fifteen miles by barges and canoes, and having well-wooded, good land upon its banks. A few miles still further to the eastward, and at the extremity of the group of islands before referred to, and taking a southerly direction, you reach the southern extremity of the Gulf, bounded by the plain or valley of the Thames. This plain is upwards of sixty miles in length, by about sixteen or twenty miles in breadth; and is watered throughout its whole extent by two winding rivers – the Thames and the Piako, running parallel to each other, and discharging themselves into the Gulf at its southern extremity. Both rivers are navigable for barges, or small steamers, for a distance of fifty miles at least, and are accessible from Auckland by canoes and open boats, in fine weather. With its numerous harbours, estuaries, rivers, islands, gold-fields, forests, and plains, the Gulf of the Thames itself comprises a commercial world in miniature. The wooded rivers to the westward of the town are clothed with Kauri timber; whence spars are floated down by the tide. The island of Waiheki supplies Kauri timber, timber for shipbuilding, firewood, manganese, pigs, potatoes, and Indian corn. The Thames supplies flax and sawn timber; the Coromandel district, gold-dust, auriferous quartz, Kauri timber, and native produce of every description; the Great Barrier Island, copper ore; the Island of Kawau, copper ore and limestone; and Mahurangi, firewood and sawn timber.

As a harbour, in the opinion of the many naval officers who have visited New Zealand, Auckland

AUCKLAND AND THE COUNTRY ADJACENT.

has no equal in the colony, excepting the Bay of Islands. Of the thousands of vessels of all sizes which have entered and left the port in the course of the last twelve years, not one has been totally wrecked in, near, or within fifty miles of it.

And yet, with all this, the position of Auckland is but half described. Six miles to the south of the town, across the isthmus, and indenting the west coast, is the harbour of Manukau. This harbour bears some resemblance to a man's right hand, pointed eastward – the wrist representing the entrance – the thumb, that branch of it which runs up to Onehunga, the nearest point to Auckland – and the middle fingers, the creeks or branches which penetrate into the Papakura district – and the little finger, stretched out, representing the Waiuku branch, which runs in a southerly direction until it reaches within less than a mile and a half (2,300 yards) of the head of the Awaroa Creek, which runs into the Waikato River. The Waikato is navigable for canoes for not less than one hundred miles.

About sixty or seventy miles from the sea the Waikato is joined by the Waipa River, navigable for canoes for upwards of fifty miles. The delta formed by these two rivers is a tract of rich level land, and they water an extensive plain only separated from the plain of the Thames by a broken range of low hills. Thus it will be seen that these distant plains have water communication with Auckland with but two short interruptions – the portage of 2,300 yards, which divides the head of the Awaroa

HARBOUR OF MANUKAU.

from the head of the Waiuku, and the isthmus of six miles dividing Onehunga from Auckland. Native grown wheat and flour, flax, pigs, and Indian corn, are brought down the Waikato in canoes, carried over the portage, conveyed across Manukau in canoes or small craft to Onehunga, and carted, by a good road, from Onehunga to Auckland.

Although the best on the west coast of New Zealand, the harbour of Manukau is far inferior to that of the Waitemata; but it, adds not a little to the value of the site of Auckland. Of all the ports in New Zealand, Manukau is the nearest to, being exactly opposite in a straight line, to the capital of the Australian colonies. From Auckland round the North Cape, the voyage to Taranaki occupies six days. But from Manukau, the coasters which trade between the two places not unfrequently perform the voyage in twenty-four hours. By way of the North Cape, too, Nelson is distant eight or ten days – but by way of Manukau the voyage may be accomplished in less than half the time; and, by the same route, the voyage to Port Nicholson is shorter by almost a half than from the Waitemata by way of the East Cape. Well might the Bishop of New Zealand describe Auckland as being admirably fitted for a maritime nation, almost every settler having, as he observes, "the sea brought conveniently to his door, or at least close to him, by one or other of those long fingers of the great estuaries which almost isolate the town and its suburban districts." No one has travelled more extensively throughout the length

AUCKLAND AND THE COUNTRY ADJACENT.

and breadth of the islands of New Zealand than the Bishop; no one has a higher estimate of, or a more familiar personal acquaintance with their capabilities, than himself. Yet, "no one," he says, "can speak of the internal capabilities of New Zealand till he has seen the useful rivers which converge upon Auckland and its landlocked sea, branching into innumerable bays and creeks, from which the multitude of small vessels in its harbours have drawn their various cargoes of native produce."

There are numerous fair harbours in New Zealand, many districts abounding in rich and fertile land, and not a few where facilities of internal water communication are considerable; but the difficulty has been to find these natural advantages in combination. Referring to the districts already settled, the Bay of Islands, as a harbour, is second to none; but the country in the immediate neighbourhood is hilly and broken, with but a limited extent of open country available for agricultural purposes. Taranaki has a large extent of excellent land, well watered and beautifully wooded; but it has no harbour, and abuts upon an open roadstead. Wellington has a spacious harbour, surrounded by beautiful scenery – but owing to the broken and hilly character of the surrounding country, there is but little available land within a radius of seven or eight miles of the town. The harbour of Nelson is of but a second-rate character; and there, also, the available land about the settlement is of limited extent: in order to obtain their suburban and country land,

COMBINATION OF NATURAL ADVANTAGES.

the settlers have been compelled to resort to various and distant localities. Both at Wellington and Nelson the facilities of internal water communication are inconsiderable. At Canterbury, the harbour is not of first-rate character; but the district possesses a vast extent of open available fertile land, covered throughout its whole extent with fine natural grass. But, although at no great distance from the port, these open plains are separated from it by a lofty ridge, which renders the inland communication somewhat difficult and laborious. The Otago district comprises a large extent of fine open grassy country; but its harbour, although sufficiently good for the purposes of the settlement, is not by any means of a first-rate character. Auckland, however, in addition to its excellent harbour – with a second port within six miles on the opposite coast, and the extensive natural facilities of internal communication which have already been described – has its town, suburban, and country lands in one compact area, and in unbroken continuity.

The available character of the land in immediate proximity to the town cannot better be illustrated than by Sir George Grey's description of the borough, comprising the isthmus on which Auckland stands. "Thus defined," says the Governor-in-Chief, "the borough of Auckland comprises within its limits, two large harbours, one on either side, and one of which (Auckland) is of a most superior description; a river, the Tamaki, navigable for small craft, which nearly intersects the borough; a water frontage, not

AUCKLAND AND THE COUNTRY ADJACENT.

including the Tamaki with its numerous creeks, of not less than forty miles, having shelter and anchorage for shipping throughout the greater part of its extent; and an area of about 58,000 acres, the whole of which, with the exception of about 2,000 acres, is available for cultivation, and is generally of very superior quality." This 58,000 acres, too, is not an isolated tract of country, but simply so much of an extensive district of level open country as is included within the artificial boundaries of the borough.

The Committee of the Auckland Agricultural Society, in their First Report published in 1843, thus describe the quality of the soil: –

"About one-half of this district, consisting of undulating ground, is covered with fern and various shrubs, chiefly the Tupaki, and possesses a soil of a rich yellow clay, mixed with sand and charred vegetable matter, owing to the frequent burning of the fern, which, when broken up and exposed to the air, soon pulverizes into a fine, rich loam, varying in depth from one to two feet, easily laboured, but from the excellency of the subsoil it may be cultivated to any depth required. The subsoil consists of a red and yellow clay, mixed with ferruginous sand. The substance is formed of a soft blue and yellow argillaceous sand-stone.

"One-fourth of the district presents a more level surface, being covered with dwarf Manuka, fern, and a variety of small shrubs and tufts of grass. Its soil consists of a whitish clay, mixed with sand, more ad-

NATURE AND QUALITY OF THE SOIL.

hesive than the former, yet, when broken up and exposed, it soon pulverizes: the subsoil, white clay, and red ferruginous sand; substratum, the same as the former. It is not so rich as the first-mentioned soil.

"The remaining fourth may be considered different from either of the former, being generally situated near the volcanic hills, and of a varied surface, the hilly portion being covered with fern and grass. The soil consists of a dry, red, volcanic formation, to a great depth, the greater part covered with scoria; and, where it is only on the surface, the soil is a rich, red loam, very fertile. Another portion, covered with trees and shrubs, shows a rich mould of a volcanic nature to a depth of several feet, mixed with red sand and small calcined stones, resting upon a substratum of concrete. Another small portion lying along the banks of fresh water creeks, covered with evergreens and tree ferns, affords a rich, pliable clay, mixed with ferruginous sand, resting on a substratum of soft, yellow, and red ferruginous sandstone. It is thus seen what a variety of soils are offered to the agriculturist, each adapted to some particular production, and favourable to some peculiar mode of agriculture."

Further experience confirmed the society in their opinion of the capabilities of the soil. In their Second Report, the committee state "that their anticipations of the capabilities of both the soil and climate have been fully realized. The samples of grain produced at the agricultural show of last February,

AUCKLAND AND THE COUNTRY ADJACENT.

were of the finest description, and the appearance of the crops at present in the ground, in every variety of soil, gives promise of an abundant harvest."

After the experience afforded by the six succeeding years, the Committee, in their Report for 1850, express themselves to be "satisfied that the aspect of the country around Auckland warrants the praises which have been bestowed on New Zealand as an eligible colony for our countrymen at home to select as a productive field for their energy and enterprise." "The pasture lands," says that report, "have this year produced heavy crops of hay, and the appearance of the grain and potato crops is very promising. The quantity of stock which a pasture-field, in proportion to its average, will maintain throughout the year, is equal if not greater than in England."

It may be remembered that, about fifteen years ago, a number of enterprising men associated themselves together for the purpose of carrying out a great scheme of colonization. Imperfectly as they were then known, and distant as they were from England, the islands of New Zealand appeared to them to present the most promising field in which to try their great experiment. Anxious to secure the success of their project, they carefully instructed the leader of the enterprise to secure, if possible, that site which should be best adapted for a great and prosperous settlement. The working members of the body were shrewd, experienced, able men. Guided by the light of history, and by their own personal knowledge, they carefully traced out for the guidance

SITE FOR A COMMERCIAL METROPOLIS.

of their agent, their ideal of the site for a Commercial Metropolis. "Of merely fertile lands," they say, "there exists so great an abundance, that its possession, however useful and valuable, would not be peculiarly advantageous. Mere fertility of soil, therefore, though not to be overlooked, is a far less important consideration than natural facilities of communication and transport. There is probably some one part of the islands better suited than any other to become the centre of their trade, or Commercial Metropolis, when they shall be more fully inhabited by Englishmen; and there must be many other spots peculiarly eligible for the sites of secondary towns. The shores of safe and commodious harbours – the sheltered embouchures of extensive rivers communicating with a fertile country – the immediate neighbourhood of powerful falls of water which might be expected to become the seats of manufactures – these are the situations in which it is most to be desired that you should make purchases of land: and especially you should endeavour to make an extensive purchase on the shores of that harbour which, all things considered, shall appear to offer the greatest facilities as a general trading depot and port of export and import for all parts of the islands – as a centre of commerce for collecting and exporting the produce of the islands, and for the reception and distribution of foreign goods."

Unfortunately for their colonizing operations, the shores of that one harbour which fulfilled all the conditions of their ideal of perfection, were already

AUCKLAND AND THE COUNTRY ADJACENT.

claimed by previous land-purchasers; it remained, however, for the sagacity of Captain Hobson to discover, and, on the part of the Crown, to appropriate a position so well calculated to become the seat of a great Commercial Metropolis, and to fix upon it as the site of the Capital of New Zealand. There is but one other such position in the world. Turn to a map of Southern Greece, and look at the site of the City of Corinth: placed in the sheltered extremity of the Corinthian Gulf; built upon a narrow isthmus, where the Corinthian and Soronic Gulfs almost meet; having two harbours; occupying a position between two seas, and enjoying the facilities afforded by the isthmus for carrying goods from sea to sea; it is not difficult to discover the origin of its early commercial greatness. It may not be easy to convey a clear impression of the topography of the land-locked estuaries and harbour-locked shores of the Capital of New Zealand; but seen from the summit of Mount Eden, the value of its position is discovered at a glance. With a bird's-eye view of the reality laying before him, glittering in all the brightness of a genial summer's sun, who would not echo the exclamation of the Bishop, "Look at the position of Auckland, and judge whether it may not justly be called the Corinth of the South."

"In reference to your selection of Auckland in preference to Port Nicholson as the site of the Capital of New Zealand, I am happy to acknowledge," writes Lord Stanley, "that the grounds on which

PROCLAIMED THE SEAT OF GOVERNMENT.

you proceeded, appear to me satisfactory. On a subject so peculiarly local, and to the right understanding of which so much exact topographical knowledge is essential, my opinion must of course be guided by the comparison of the statements transmitted to me, and by balancing the weight of conflicting authorities. Approaching the question in that manner, and unaided by any personal acquaintance with the localities, I have thought that there is such a clear preponderance of motives in favour of your choice, as to justify me in advising the Queen to direct that Auckland should be the Seat of Government of the new colony; and I have received her Majesty's commands to acquaint you that such is her Majesty's pleasure."

Time, experience, and personal acquaintance with the capabilities of the country, have now confirmed the wisdom of that choice. "Without wishing to depreciate any of the numerous points of emigration to America, Australia, or Africa, my own choice," writes the Rev. Walter Lawry, the superintendent of the Wesleyan Missions of the South Seas, "would most certainly fall on the Northern Island of New Zealand, and within about sixty miles of Auckland, the seat of the Colonial Government."

It would have cheered Captain Hobson in the closing struggles of his life to have received the Royal confirmation of his choice; but the despatch which conveyed it did not reach New Zealand until some weeks after his decease. Governor Hobson

AUCKLAND AND THE COUNTRY ADJACENT.

received but scant justice while living, and since his death no public monument has been erected to his memory; but there is rapidly springing up around his grave, in the infant capital of New Zealand, a living monument, which, more worthily and more durably than records of brass or pillars of marble, will do justice to his memory, and perpetuate his fame.

CHAPTER III.

THE CITY OF AUCKLAND.

CHAPTER III.

The City of Auckland – The Harbour – The Suburbs – The Isthmus – State and progress of the District

Auckland is seen to most advantage from the harbour. The City is built on the northern side of the isthmus which divides the Waitemata from the Manukau, and is bounded on the north by the shores of the former harbour. The site, as laid down on the Official Plan, has a frontage on the water of about a mile and a half, and extends inland to the distance of about a mile. At present, the greater number of the houses have been built near the water, in the bays and on the headlands with which it is indented. These bays are backed by small valleys which run inland to the distance of about half a mile, terminating in narrow gullies, and are separated from each other by spurs which run into the harbour and terminate in low headlands. The lower parts of the town being thus separated, the roads which connect them with each other are somewhat steep and inconvenient.

AUCKLAND AND THE COUNTRY ADJACENT.

Seen from the harbour, Auckland makes a considerable appearance, and suggests the idea of expansiveness. St. Paul's Church, with its neat spire, occupying a prominent position on the centre headland, is an ornamental feature. The Barracks, the Scotch Church, the Colonial Hospital, the Wesleyan Institution, the Roman Catholic Church, and the Windmill on the hill, with Mount Eden in the back ground, are the most prominent objects. Approaching the shore, Official Bay, commanded by St. Paul's Church, and with its detached cottage-like houses built on a sheltered slope, each snugly nestled in the luxuriant shrubbery of its surrounding garden, looks pretty and picturesque. Commercial Bay, seen from the water, presents the appearance of a large town, having a mass of houses closely packed together. Mechanics' Bay is as yet but little built upon; a large rope-walk, a ship-builders' yard, a native hostelry, and a few small shops, are the only buildings. This Bay is the principal place of encampment for the natives visiting Auckland in their canoes; here they land their native produce; in fine weather bivouacking in the open air or under their sail-made tents, and in bad weather, seeking shelter in the neighbouring hostelry. Freeman's Bay, to the westward of Commercial Bay, is occupied chiefly by saw-pits, brick-kilns, and boat-builders' yards.

The principal streets are Princes Street, Shortland Crescent, Queen Street, and Wakefield Street. The first is a broad, straight, spacious, well-made street,

THE PRINCIPAL STREETS.

on a gentle slope; St. Paul's Church, the Treasury and the Bank, and the Masonic Hotel, are its principal buildings. Shortland Crescent, which connects Princes Street with Queen Street, is built on rather a steep ascent. It is less broad than Princes Street, but much longer. On one side it is almost wholly built upon; shops and stores are here to be found of every description, and of various form and style. No attempt at uniformity has been made: every one has built according to his means, fancy, or the size and shape of his ground. The only approach to uniformity is in the material: with a few exceptions, all are of wood. The roadway of the street is an even Macadamized surface; but no attempt has yet been made to form footpaths on a general level. Some of the shops would not disgrace a small provincial town in England; though, taken altogether as a street, Shortland Crescent is irregular and unfinished. Queen Street is the least built upon; but in other respects, it is the best and most considerable street in Auckland. It is about half a mile long, nearly level, and almost straight, and terminates at its northern extremity at a pier or quay, which runs into the harbour, and alongside of which small craft can land their cargoes. At its southern extremity it is overlooked by the Wesleyan Seminary, or Boarding-school for the education of the children of the Missionaries in these seas – a spacious brick-built and substantial structure. The Gaol is badly situated, and is by no means a conspicuous building; but by a diligent search it may be found on the west side of

AUCKLAND AND THE COUNTRY ADJACENT.

Queen Street, partly screened from view by the Court-House and Police-Office, which abut immediately upon the street. Several shops of superior description, two and three stories high, have recently been erected, and Queen Street, besides being the longest, is certainly just now one of the most improving streets in Auckland. Wakefield Street ascends from its southern extremity until it joins the Cemetery Road, and is the newest and most increasing street in the town. Many of the houses are built of brick, and it already bears a considerable resemblance to a new street in the outskirts of a modern English town.

The want of a Government House is a serious drawback. Even beyond the circle of the visiting world, the destruction of the Old House has been, in every respect, a public loss. Few men possess in their own persons qualities of an order so commanding as to fit them to represent Majesty without the aid of its outward trappings. The want of a suitable residence for the Governor, operates injuriously on society in many respects: it is a loss to the public, a detriment to the place, and materially detracts from "that dignity which ought to hedge about" the Queen's Vicegerent. The grounds on which the Old House stood, are planted with English oaks and trees, which already afford both shade and shelter; the lawn and walks are neatly kept; the situation is pretty and convenient, commanding a view of the flag-staff, and of the entrance into the harbour; it is close to the town, too, without being

ITS PUBLIC BUILDINGS.

of the town; and it excites in all who take an interest in the place a feeling of regret that it has not yet been restored to its legitimate purpose.

The most considerable public buildings are the Britomart and Albert Barracks, having together accommodation for nearly 1,000 men. The former are built on the extremity of the headland dividing Official from Commercial Bay, and form a conspicuous, but by no means an ornamental feature. The buildings are solid and substantial, mostly of scoria – a dark, gray, sombre coloured stone – square, heavy-looking, and unsightly. The Albert Barracks, the larger of the two, are built upon the same ridge, but about a quarter of a mile inland. The Stores, Hospital, Magazine, and Commissariat Offices, are built of scoria. The rest of the buildings are of wood, plain in style, and of a sombre colour. The various buildings, together with the parade-ground, occupy several acres, the whole of which is surrounded by a strong scoria wall, about ten or twelve feet high, loop-holed, and with flanking angles. The position of the Albert Barracks is healthy and cheerful, overlooking the town and harbour, and commanding an extensive view of the surrounding country; but being commanded by a rising ground within a few hundred yards, and being within view from ships in the harbour, and within range of their shot and shell, the site, in a military point of view, is not happily chosen. Although much more extensive than those at Wellington, the Auckland Barracks have by no means the same neat, cheerful,

AUCKLAND AND THE COUNTRY ADJACENT.

and compact appearance. It is not probable, however, that so large a portion of almost level ground as these Barracks occupy will, for many years, be allowed to be taken from the site of a town having too generally a broken and uneven surface.

Seen from the neighbourhood of St. Paul's Church, the harbour presents the appearance of a land-locked, lake-like, sheet of water. The Flag-staff Hill, and North Head of mound-like form, bound it on the left. Over the low neck of land which connects them appears the rugged volcanic island of Rangitoto, with its triple peaks; in front are the islands of Motukoria and Waiheki, forming the middle distance; the Castle-hill – the lofty land-mark of the Coromandel Gold-field – with the range of high land which divides the gulf of the Thames from the open sea, and which terminates in Cape Colville, forming the back ground. On the right, the outline is broken by numerous little bays, and the low headlands which divide them; the Sentinel Rock forming at all times a conspicuous object.

On that shore of the harbour on which the town is built, the water is shoal, and its several bays, at low water, are left uncovered. Except at high-water the landing generally along the shore is inconvenient. For several years, Auckland, in this respect, enjoyed a bad pre-eminence; but the reproach has at length been removed by the erection of a neat wooden Jetty, five hundred feet in length, which affords a convenient boat landing-place at nearly all times of the tide. It also forms an ornamental feature in

THE HARBOUR AND PORT.

Official Bay, and affords to the public an agreeable promenade. At a short distance from the foot of the pier is a brick-built tank, supplied by a spring of excellent water. Pipes are laid on to the tank, and run along to the extremity of the pier, where water-casks can be filled and taken off to the shipping at all times of the tide. A quay or landing-place is also in course of construction in Commercial Bay, alongside of which vessels in the coasting trade will be able to land and to take in their cargoes. On the North Shore – across the harbour, opposite the town, distant somewhat less than a mile – the water deepens rapidly, the landing is good, and the shore is a dry, clean, shelly beach.

There are no port charges, harbour dues, or taxes, levied on shipping; and the harbour is open to all the world to enter and depart free of any charge. There is a pilot, but it is optional with masters of vessels to employ him. If not employed, no pilotage is chargeable. The port is supplied with almost every thing necessary for refitting and refreshing vessels; and both ships' stores and provisions can be obtained at a moderate price.

The Waitemata is well adapted for boat-sailing. Canoes from all parts of the Gulf are continually arriving and departing; and with nearly 100 vessels from distant ports, upwards of 600 coasters, and nearly 2,000 canoes yearly entering the port, its sheltered waters present a lively, businesslike appearance. But never, perhaps, is it seen to so great an advantage as when once or twice

AUCKLAND AND THE COUNTRY ADJACENT.

a year the native chief Taraia and his tribe, from the eastern boundary of the Gulf, pay Auckland a visit in their fleet of forty sail of well-manned war canoes. Drawing them up in a line upon the beach, and with their masts and sails pitching a long line of various figured tents, they encamp themselves for several days. The neighbourhood of their camping ground presents the appearance of a fair: pigs and potatoes, wheat, maize, melons, grapes, pumpkins, onions, flax, turkeys, geese, ducks, fowls, and firewood, are exposed for sale in great abundance, and meet with a ready market. But the money they receive in payment does not leave the town: for several days the shops and stores are frequented by careful, curious, keen-eyed customers. Their "shopping" ended, they take their departure with the first fair wind, laden with spades, blankets, ironware, and clothing of various kinds; their fleet departing, homeward bound, in a body as it came, the canoes extending over the surface of the harbour, with their many-shaped sails of mat and canvass wide-spread to catch the western breeze.

But to the lover of the picturesque, the Waitemata, except at particular seasons, presents no great attraction. Superior as it is in its useful qualities, in beauty of natural scenery it is very far inferior to the harbour of Port Nicholson. The country around Auckland being, for the most part, level and open, the natural features of the country are neither bold nor picturesque. Still the harbour is by no means devoid of natural beauty. Commonly there is an

SCENERY AND ATMOSPHERE.

excess of wind; but not unfrequently, and in the winter season particularly, a perfect calm for a time prevails – with a deep but soft blue sky, studded here and there with fields of snow-white silvery clouds, seen through a glistening atmosphere. Thus seen, the Waitemata presents a landscape of placid beauty which it would tax the imagination to surpass. On such a day the sails and rigging of the ships are mirrored in the glassy surface of the water, each in itself forming a picture like a "painted ship upon a painted ocean;" the glass-like smoothness of the water being rippled only by boats and canoes lightly skimming here and there upon its azure surface. With such a scene to gaze upon, devoid as it is of striking features, and deriving its charms solely from light, colouring, and repose, the mind is filled with the fulness of its beauty. But this glistening calm is the sure forerunner of a storm: short-lived, like all exceeding human loveliness, the unearthly brightness of the scene is sure, ere long, to be followed by a boisterous storm of wind or rain. The Suburban District comprises the rising ground by which the town is sheltered. Many of the choicest spots are already occupied by neat-looking private houses. Overlooking the town and the harbour – and commanding a view of the Gulf, with the "Great Barrier" and "Little Barrier" Islands in the far distance, and the nearer islands which give shelter to the Waitemata – these rising grounds possess numerous pretty sites. But generally speaking the scenery in this district is neither bold nor pic-

AUCKLAND AND THE COUNTRY ADJACENT.

turesque; and is altogether unlike the general character of New Zealand scenery – comparatively bare of trees, and distinguished only by the number of its volcanic hills. The surrounding country is open, undulating; intersected in all directions by the numerous creeks of the Waitemata and the Manukau, and easily available for agricultural purposes: but it presents few of the characteristics of a New Zealand landscape, and it has nothing to mark it as a foreign country.

Strangers, however, are frequently very unreasonably disappointed with the natural beauty of New Zealand. They are landed at some port which possesses, perhaps, no great natural beauty; they never travel twenty miles from home, and they conclude that the accounts which have been written of the country – so far, at least, as beauty of scenery is concerned – have been written in a spirit of gross exaggeration. A foreigner having heard much of English scenery, if put down in Lincolnshire or Suffolk and not travelling beyond the borders of the county, would be equally disappointed, and with as much reason.

The greater part of the land in the neighbourhood of the town – comprising the isthmus which divides the two harbours – is now in cultivation: not a stump of a tree is left in the ground. Solid stone walls and quick-set hedges are generally taking the place of temporary wooden fences of posts and rails. The greater part of the land is laid down in permanent pasture. At Epsom, distant about two and a half miles

CULTIVATION OF SUBURBAN LANDS.

from the town, and in the Tamaki district distant six miles, there are grass and clover paddocks as large, as rich, as well laid down, and as substantially fenced, as any grass land in England. Owing to the neat and uncolonial style of cultivation, and to the absence of trees having a foreign appearance, the country around Auckland presents the appearance of a homelike English landscape. One half of the road across the isthmus, from Auckland to Onehunga, has been Macadamized, and the remaining half is good during the greater part of the year. With scarcely any exception, the whole of the land on each side of the road is already fenced and cultivated; and the traveller, as he passes along, is never out of sight of a house.

The town and suburbs of Auckland extend across the isthmus for the greater part of a mile; and the village of Onehunga, on the other side, spreads itself inland for nearly an equal distance: almost adjoining the suburbs of Auckland, too, is the village of Newmarket, and the remainder of the road is studded here and there by wayside houses. At no very distant period there can be little doubt but that the opposite coasts of New Zealand will thus be connected by one continued line of street.

Upwards of 40,000 acres of land within the borough of Auckland are the property of private individuals, held under grants from the Crown. About 10,000 acres have been cultivated, of which the greater part is substantially fenced. The most noticeable feature of the country is the large quan-

AUCKLAND AND THE COUNTRY ADJACENT.

tity of cattle to be seen grazing in the district: nearly 5,000 head, besides horses and sheep, are depastured on the isthmus alone.

Immediately adjoining the boundary of the borough, to the south-east, is the Papakura district, extending along the eastern shores of the Manukau harbour for a distance of ten or twelve miles: this district is bounded on the west by the waters of the Manukau, which deeply indent it in various directions, with its numerous creeks. The centre of the district comprises a plain or flat valley, running inland in an easterly direction from the Papakura Pah for many miles, until it reaches the Wairoa River. About one-half of this plain is densely timbered; the remaining portion being clear and open, but agreeably diversified with clumps and belts of trees, which give it a park-like appearance. These belts and clumps consist of a rich variety of wood; the graceful tree-fern, and the deep-green, glittering-leafed karaka, clustering, in unusual profusion, around the tall stems of the statelier forest trees. Surrounded by these ornamental woods, melodious with the song of birds, are here and there clear open spots of ground of various size, sheltered from every wind – choice sites for homestead, park, or garden. The soil of the plain is of various character: a considerable portion consists of a light dry vegetable soil, well adapted for clover paddocks, or for the growth of barley; about an equal quantity is dark-coloured, good, strong flax land, suitable for wheat and potatoes; the remainder being rich swampy land.

THE PAPAKURA DISTRICT.

for the most part capable of drainage. On the north and on the south, the plain is bounded by rugged ridges, densely covered with kauri and other timber; and it is watered by a small, but never-failing, stream of excellent water. The plain of Papakura is best seen from the highest point of the southern ridge, about four miles to the south-east of the site of the old Pah. There may be seen, on a bright sunny day, a panoramic view, than which, in the whole of New Zealand, there are few more beautiful.

Both in agriculture and commerce, Auckland appears to be making a rapid advance. The Exports, the Revenue of the Port, and the sale of Crown Lands for the past year, exceed those of any former year: the exports for the last quarter of the year 1852, being more than double in amount the exports of the corresponding quarter of the preceding year.

In the principal articles of food, the country is now independent of foreign supply: the quantity of wheat grown within the province, largely exceeds the quantity required for the consumption of its inhabitants. During the past year a greater breadth of land has been brought into cultivation than in any preceding year; and a marked stimulus has been given to agricultural pursuits.

Within, a radius of fourteen miles of Auckland, there are now upwards of twenty thousand acres of land fenced in; of which more than seventeen thousand acres are in crop. And comparing the Agricultural Returns for the years 1851 and 1852,

AUCKLAND AND THE COUNTRY ADJACENT.

it would seem that the district is making a rapid start.

1851.

1852.

Wheat.....

835 acres.

1,558 acres.

Potatoes....

794 "

1,158 "

Pasture

6,631 "

11,606 "

Total in crop..

9,707 "

17,299 "

Total, fenced in

12,246 "

20,207 "

From the following list of some of the more remarkable articles of the produce of New Zealand, exported from the Port of Auckland during the year 1852 – amounting, according to the declared value, to upwards of fifty-one thousand pounds – it will be seen that the Exports of the district are becoming considerable both in value and variety.

&pound; s. d.

Kauri spars.....

5,850 0 0

Sawn timber (2 millions of feet)

11,816 0 0

Copper ore.....

5,225 0 0

Oil......

8,629 0 0

Flax......

1,049 0 0

Wool......

1,280 0 0

Kauri gum.....

805 0 0

Cordage .....

550 0 0

Houses in frame....

1,622 10 0

Gold dust, sand, and quartz.

114 10 0

Wheat......

1,371 0 0

Flour......

4,029 0 0

Oats......

548 0 0

Hams and bacon....

1,610 0 0

Onions

1,270 0 0

Potatoes

1,462 0 0

Cheese.....

346 0 0

Butter......

110 0 0

Sundry other articles

3,413 0 0

Total

&pound; 51,100 0 0

EXPORTS AND SHIPPING.

There are more than a hundred Vessels registered as belonging to the Port of Auckland, besides upwards of a hundred and fifty licensed small craft under fifteen tons. And during the year, seven hundred and forty-one vessels of all sizes, foreign and coastwise, were entered at the Custom-house as arriving in the Port.

Whaling ships are beginning to find their way into the Harbour, and Whalers, both English and American, are again resorting in large numbers to the northern Ports.

The recent Report of the French Commission appointed to test the comparative strength and flexibility of Kauri, American, and Baltic pine, has made known abroad the superior qualities for ships' masts of a species of timber to be found only in the northern districts of the Northern Province of New Zealand. Several valuable cargoes of Kauri spars have recently been shipped from Hokianga and Kaipara, and it may be hoped that the prospect of an increasing demand for this valuable staple of the northern exports, may have the effect of checking in some degree that wasteful process by which whole districts of young Kauri trees have too commonly been destroyed.

The extensive Copper works established at the island of Kawau, are at present unemployed; but at the Great Barrier Island, Mining operations have been resumed. The Ore now gotten there is of good quality, and the experiment promises to be successful, and to remunerate the owners for the capital and

AUCKLAND AND THE COUNTRY ADJACENT.

skill employed in the undertaking. The mineral productions of the Province, independently of its golden prospects, will again form an important item of its exports.

At six other points in various parts of New Zealand, have Settlements been planted. Five of them have been founded by Colonizing Companies, systematically, and with all the zeal and vigour which public spirit and private enterprise can supply: no pains have been spared to render them attractive, and to draw the stream of emigration to their shores: and yet, at this moment, nearly one-third of the whole European population of the islands of New Zealand is to be found within a radius of ten miles of the neighbourhood of Auckland. Probably the best proof of the attractiveness of the District, is to be found in the fact that, while people from various parts of the neighbouring colonies, and from every part of the world, have been crowding in thousands to the gold fields of Australia, the population of the District of Auckland, at the end of the year 1852, exceeded by some hundreds the population of the district at the end of the year preceding. Seeing that the Shipping, the Revenue, and the Exports of Auckland exceed the shipping, the revenue, and the exports of any three Settlements in New Zealand added together; that upwards of seven hundred Vessels of various sizes, and nearly two thousand canoes, yearly enter its Port, it is obvious now to all – since prejudice and party feeling have passed away – that, independently of its newly discovered Gold field, the

ITS SUPERIOR ADVANTAGES.

neighbourhood of Auckland combines advantages for a large and prosperous Agricultural and Commercial Settlement, not elsewhere to be found in this Colony.

CHAPTER IV.

AUCKLAND AND THE COUNTRY ADJACENT.

CHAPTER IV.

The Climate; its salubrity – Superiority over continental climates – Comparison with the climate and weather of England – Season for fruits and flowers – Temperature, &c, of the various months.

The climate of New Zealand, though undoubtedly good, has been described injudiciously, and without discrimination. Beautiful, delightful, and splendid, are the epithets which have commonly been applied to it. These terms naturally convey the impression of an atmosphere rarely disturbed by wind or rain; but, until its true value comes to be appreciated by them, strangers are at first somewhat rudely disenchanted by finding that their imaginary Paradise can be visited, and that, too, rather roughly, by the winds and rains of heaven. This disenchantment frequently takes place at an early period; for it not uncommonly happens that vessels enter the harbour in a gale of wind. Impatient to view the promised land, the new-comer, in spite of the weather, lands without delay. Wading along a sloppy clay road,

ITS SALUBRIOUS CLIMATE.

in a boisterous gale of wind and rain, with, perhaps, an umbrella turned inside out in one hand, and his hat jammed tightly over his head with the other, he can scarcely divest himself of the idea that the ship must have lost her reckoning, and mistaken her port. Pride, however, prevents him asking questions, and politeness forbids disparaging remarks. But in New Zealand, as elsewhere, a storm is followed by a calm; and if disenchanted to-day, the new arrival will probably be charmed to-morrow by one of those calm, bright, and lovely mornings, whose beauty no language can fittingly describe. The fact is that the climate of a country may be fertile and salubrious – and such is the climate of New Zealand – without being either splendid or delightful.

The general salubrity of the climate of New Zealand has now been established by the experience of years. For persons of delicate constitution, predisposed to disease of the lungs, it is unequalled, save by Madeira. Compared with that of Nice – one of the most celebrated continental climates – the climate of Auckland is more temperate in summer, milder in the winter, equally mild in the spring, but a little colder in the autumn: – with this advantage, too, over all the boasted continental climates, that it is not so liable to the very great variations of temperature common to them all from sudden shifts of wind.1 The climate of New Zea-

AUCKLAND AND THE COUNTRY ADJACENT.

land is doubtless less charming and delightful than that of Italy and the south of France, but it is certainly more salubrious, and probably better suited to the English constitution, generally, than even the climate of Madeira. For although it has its share of wind, rain, and broken weather, it has the advantage over Italy and France, in being more limited in range of temperature; embracing a less oppressive summer heat, and less sudden changes of temperature during the twenty-four hours, and a more gradual change of temperature from month to month.

Many of the continental and Mediterranean climates are, during certain seasons of the year, finer, steadier, more agreeable than that of New Zealand, and equally salubrious with it; but their summer heat is in some cases too great, their autumn weather frequently unhealthy, winter too cold, and spring objectionable, from being liable to gusts of cold and chilling winds. By moving constantly about throughout the year, traversing continents and seas, it

SALUBRITY OF NEW ZEALAND.

would no doubt be possible to be always in a fine and salubrious climate. But, as a fixed and permanent residence, there are probably few places to be found, in all respects, more suitable to the English constitution than New Zealand; and if that be so, then, few more suitable for persons of delicate chest or lungs; the true theory being, that for preventing the development of diseases of the chest, that is the best climate which will admit of the greatest and most constant exposure to the open air, and which is at the same time best calculated to promote the general health: a tendency to disease of any kind being best warded off by keeping the bodily system in a vigorous tone of health.

Compared with Great Britain, New Zealand, so far as its general salubrity can be ascertained, possesses a marked superiority. From the results of observations made by Dr. Thomson of the 58th Regiment, for a period of two years, from April 1848 to April 1850, when the strength of the troops stationed in the colony amounted to nearly two thousand men, it appears from the following valuable tables compiled by him, that, taking diseases generally, out of every thousand men, twice as many were admitted into hospital in England as were admitted into hospital in New Zealand; and the mortality, amongst equal numbers treated, was about eight and a half in New Zealand to fourteen in England.

AUCKLAND AND THE COUNTRY ADJACENT.

Classes of
Disease.

Total Admissions among the Troops during the yrs. ending Mar. 1849 and 1850.

Total Deaths among the Troops during the yrs. ending Mar. 1849 and 1850.

Annual Ratio of Admissions into Hospital from different classes of Diseases out of 1,000 soldiers stationed
in New Zealand.

[in]
Great Britain

Annual Ratio of Deaths per 1,000 different classes of Diseases among troops stationed in
New Zealand.

[in] Great Britain.

Fevers .....

47

1

13

75

0.

1.4

Eruptive Fevers ...........

2

1

3

0.1

Disease of Lungs....

211

16

51

148

4.3

7.7

Disease of Liver .....

24

2

7

8

0.4

0.4

Disease of Stomach and Bowels

222

8

60

94

0.9

0.8

Epidemic Cholera.....

–

4

–

1.2

Disease of Brain....

22

6

6

–

0.7

Dropsies ..........

5

3

2

1

0.9

0.3

Rheumatic Affections....

152

41

50

Venereal ........

84

23

181

Abscess and Ulcers......

335

3

90

133

Wounds and Injuries.....

278

1

75

126

1.9

1.4

Disease of Eyes .......

180

48

19

Disease of Skin ............

22

6

29

All other Diseases .....

152

8

41

44

Total.............

1, 736

32

464

921

8.7

14.0

SALUBRITY OP NEW ZEALAND.

Cases of fever in New Zealand are rare. From the same returns, it appears there are six cases of fever in Great Britain for one in New Zealand; and out of forty-seven cases in New Zealand there was but one death. Of diseases of the lungs, three cases were admitted into hospital in Great Britain to one in New Zealand; and out of an equal number treated, seven terminated fatally in Great Britain, and but four in New Zealand. Diseases of the stomach and bowels are more prevalent by half in Great Britain than in New Zealand. Diseases of the liver and brain are nearly the same in the two countries. The only class of cases in which the comparison is unfavourable to New Zealand are complaints of the eye, which are more than twice as numerous here as they are in Great Britain. Smallpox and measles are as yet unknown in New Zealand.

Comparing New Zealand with the healthiest foreign stations of the British army, it will appear from the following table, compiled by the same authority, taking into account all classes of disease receiving hospital treatment, that the comparison is greatly in favour of this country. And with reference to pulmonary disease, there are in Malta two cases for one in New Zealand. In the Ionian Islands there are three cases to two in this country. At the Cape of Good Hope there are ten cases for six In New Zealand. In the Mauritius there are the fewest number of cases treated, after New Zealand –

AUCKLAND AND THE COUNTRY ADJACENT.

the proportion being about eight in the Mauritius to six in New Zealand; but the mortality from pulmonary disease is twice as great in the Mauritius as it is in New Zealand. While in Australia there are twice as many cases of pectoral disease as in New Zealand, the disease being, at the same time, twice as fatal: –

Stations.

Annual ratio of Mortality per 1,000 among the Troops from all diseases at

No. of men attacked annually out of 1,000, by Pectoral Complaints.

Average number of deaths out of 1,000 men during a year from Pectoral Diseases.

Malta ............

18

120

6.0

Ionian Islands......

28

90

4.8

Bermuda..........

30

126

8.7

Canada............

20

148

6.7

Gibraltar ..........

22

141

9.8

Cape of Good Hope..

15

98

3.0

Mauritius..........

30

84

5.6

United Kingdom....

14

148

8.0

Australian Continent.

11

133

5.8

New Zealand ......

8 1/4

60

2.7

Of cases of fever, there are at least five in Malta, the Cape, and in Australia, to one in New Zealand.

Of complaints of the liver, there are two cases in the above-mentioned places to one in New Zealand.

And of diseases of the stomach and bowels, there are more than two cases at each of the above-mentioned places for one in this country.

SALUBRITY OF NEW ZEALAND.

TABLE showing the Annual Ratio of Admissions and Deaths among 1,000 Troops at the following Stations from the undermentioned Classes of Disease: –

Cape of Good Hope

Cape of Good Hope.

Malta

Malta.

Australian
Continent

Australian
Continent*

N. Zealand

N. Zealand.

Diseases.

Fevers ...........

88

1.9

173

29

65

1.2

13

0.3

Liver Complaints..

22

1.1

21

11

15

.1

7

0.4

Disease of Stomach & Bowels

126

3.1

155

36

153

1.5

60

.9

*From seven years observation, ending March 1850, kindly furnished by Staff-Surgeon Shanks, Principal Medical Officer. New South Wales.

But assuming the above Returns to show correctly the comparative healthiness of our troops in Great Britain, and at the various foreign stations, it does not necessarily follow that they correctly exhibit the comparative salubrity of the climates of the countries to which they relate, so far at least as regards the community at large: and for this reason, that our troops are for the most part lodged in barracks; and that the health of the men is influenced by the manner in which they are lodged, as well as by the climate of the country in which they may be stationed; and that barracks vary considerably in the several important particulars of size, ventilation, construction, and position. This result, therefore, might easily follow – that men stationed in a bad

AUCKLAND AND THE COUNTRY ADJACENT.

climate, but lodged in barracks erected on a well-chosen site, spacious, dry, well ventilated, well drained, and supplied with good water, may have fewer hospital cases and less mortality, than men stationed in a good climate, but lodged in barracks in a bad situation, close, confined, ill drained, and badly constructed. But, making allowance for all such disturbing causes, there can be no doubt that the foregoing Tables afford satisfactory proof of the general salubrity of the country.

Compared with an English summer, that of Auckland is but little warmer, though much longer. But the nights in New Zealand are always cool and refreshing, and rest is never lost from the warmth and closeness of the night. It is also much warmer here both in the spring and autumn; and the winter weather of England, from the middle of November to the middle of March, with its parching easterly winds, cold, fog, and snow, is altogether unknown. Snow, indeed, is never seen here; ice, very thin and very rarely; and hail is neither common nor destructive. The winter, however, is very wet, but not colder than an English April or October. There is a greater prevalence of high winds, too, than is personally agreeable: but with less wind, the climate would not be more healthy. There is most wind in the spring and autumn; rather less in the summer; and least of all in winter.

Compared with the climate of Wellington, that of Auckland is a few degrees warmer both in summer and winter. The air of Auckland, too, is some-

THE SEASONS – FRUITS AND FLOWERS.

what more soft and genial. Auckland has less wind than Wellington, but more rain. A better climate than that of either Auckland or Wellington is to be found in the Bay of Plenty, and along the east coast of the broadest part of the Northern island, where the weather is steadier and more settled, with much less wind and rain.

The seasons are the reverse of those in England. Spring commences in September; Summer in December; Autumn in April; and Winter in the middle of June.

In the summer, during settled weather, a calm commonly prevails until about ten or eleven o'clock in the morning; the heat is then moderated by a brisk sea breeze from the north, which dies away at sunset.

Fruits, flowers, and vegetables, all thrive well; but – owing perhaps to their more rapid growth, or, it may be that the same amount of care and attention has not yet been paid to the choice of stocks, and to their cultivation and management as in England – the flowers are rather less highly scented, and the fruits and vegetables less highly flavoured than at home. Cultivated flowers blow quickly; their colour is fine, and no word but profusion can describe their quantity. Figs, peaches, grapes, and melons, ripen in the open air. Gooseberries and currants succeed better in the south, the climate being colder. Strawberries are in season in November, December and January; cherries and gooseberries in January; apples, pears, plums, peaches, and nectarines, in Fe-

AUCKLAND AND THE COUNTRY ADJACENT.

bruary; and melons, figs, and grapes, in March and April. The geranium, arum, fuchsia, balsam, myrtle, coronella, hydrangia, heliotrope, and gladiola, and Cape bulbs of every kind, enjoy a vigorous existence in the open air; and roses blow without ceasing.

In the winter, long continued heavy rain is frequent, and the wet appears even more excessive than it is, because the paths and bye-roads as yet continue in their natural state, having their clayey surface unformed, unpaved, and undrained. In the intervals between the heavy winter rains, the weather is bright, clear, and bracing. The growth of grass is scarcely ever checked by the winter cold; the geranium, stock, wall flower, scarlet verbena, daisy, Indian May, and other flowers, may be seen to blow throughout the coldest season; and the face of the cultivated country, with its ever springing pastures and ever-green trees, looks as bright and cheerful between the rains – on a sunny winter's day – as on an English summer landscape. More rain falls in Auckland than in England, taking an average of the whole country; but there are more fine dry days in Auckland than in the northern and western districts of England. Fogs are rarely seen here; thunder storms are less common and less violent than in England, and lightning, though common, is generally harmless.

The days are an hour shorter in the summer and an hour longer in the winter than in England. Of twilight there is little or none.

The prevailing winds are the S.W. and the N.E.;

THE SEASONS AND WEATHER.

the latter being always the warmer of the two, though it commonly freshens into a gale. By observers of the weather, it is thought that the N.E. gales occur more frequently within a day or two after the full and change of the moon than at any other time. These gales, after blowing for about forty-eight hours, cease suddenly; when the wind chops round to the S.W., and the weather becomes clear and bright. With the wind at S.W. or S., the weather is commonly steady – settled fine, or settled wet. With the wind at W. or N.W, it is almost always showery, squally, and unsettled. Westerly winds fall in the evening. Occasionally the wind blows from the S.S.E.: with the wind in that quarter, the weather is commonly cold, chilly, and wet. A shift of wind usually follows the course of the sun: when the wind shifts in an opposite direction settled weather is not expected.

In all seasons, the beauty of the day is in the early morning. At that time, generally, a solemn stillness holds, and a perfect calm prevails: not a sound is heard – not a breath is stirring, as the rays of the rising sun are gently stealing over a world at rest. Every object breathes repose; and the peaceful landscape, softly sleeping, suffused with golden light, suggests an image of the world before the Fall.

The change in the weather from month to month is very gradual.

January is one of the finest months in the year and very favourable for the grain harvest. The temperature indicated by the thermometer out of doors – in the shade – taking an average of several

AUCKLAND AND THE COUNTRY ADJACENT.

years is, at eight o'clock in the morning, 66 deg.; at two o'clock in the afternoon, 74 deg.; and eight o'clock in the evening, 62 deg. Taking an average of the same years, and during the twenty-four hours, there are in this month, five showery days, two wet days (or days in which there is rain of three hours' continuance), and twenty-four dry days. But, in New Zealand as in England, there is now and then an exceptional season. For instance, in January 1852 the weather was wet and unsettled, altogether unlike that which commonly prevails. In 1846 the weather in January was equally exceptional.

The temperature of the month of February nearly resembles that of January, being 67 deg. at 8 A.M.; 73 deg. at 2 P.M.; and 62 deg. at 8 P.M.; being also, usually, equally dry. Showery days 5 1/2; wet days 2 1/2; dry days 20 1/2.

In March the temperature falls a little: at 8 A.M. 63 deg.; at 2 P.M. 70 deg.; and at 8 P.M. 60 deg.; but the weather is equally dry as in the two previous months. Showery days 6 1/2; wet days 2 1/2; and dry days 22.

In April mosquitoes disappear, and the weather becomes sensibly cooler – more unsettled and showery. At 8 A.M. 58 deg.; at 2 P.M. 66 deg.; and at 8 P.M. 57 deg.. Showery days 12; wet days 3; and dry days 15. In the year 1852 the very wet January was followed by unusually dry weather. Between the 23rd of January and the middle of May there was not one wet day, and the showers were unusually slight.

WEATHER OF EACH MONTH.

In the month of May the air begins to have an autumnal feel; but the weather is wet: much more wet than in the preceding month. Towards the end of the month there are generally some of the finest days in the year – calm, temperate, and bright. Temperature at 8 A.M. 52 deg.; at 2 P.M. 60 deg.; and at 8 P.M. 52 deg.. Showery days 11; wet days 4; and dry days 16.

In the month of June the weather is cold and chilly, but it is very little more unsettled than the two preceding months. In this month, also, the fine days are very fine. Temperature at 8 A.M. 49 deg.; at 2 P.M. 56 deg.; and at 8 P.M. 49 deg. Showery days 11; wet days 4; and dry days 15.

July is generally the worst month in the year – the very depth of winter – cold and wet. The ground being now saturated with moisture, the water does not readily drain away or evaporate. The dry days are commonly bright and clear; but there is little frost and no snow: the temperature being about 10 deg. warmer here than in an English winter. At 8 a.m. 47 deg.; at 2 P.M. 53 deg.; and at 8 P.M. 47 deg. The number of showery days is 13; wet days 6; and dry days 12.

In August a slight improvement commonly takes place. There is rather less rain than in July, and towards the end of the month the air becomes perceptibly warmer; but if the preceding months have been unusually fine, August is then the worse of the two. Temperature at 8 a.m. 50 deg.; at 2 P.M. 56 deg.; and at 8 P.M. 49 deg. Showery days 10; wet days 5 1/2; dry days 15 1/2.

AUCKLAND AND THE COUNTRY ADJACENT.

In September, spring commences. The number of days on which rain falls may not be much less than in the preceding month, but the quantity is smaller; and, owing to an increase in the temperature, the roads are now observed to dry up after a shower, and a decided improvement is perceptible. Temperature at 8 A.M. 53deg.; at 2 P.M. 58deg.; and at 8 P.M. 51deg.. Number of showery days 8J; wet days 5; and dry days 16 J.

The weather in October is rarely the same for two successive years, being sometimes fine and dry, but more commonly coarse, cold, and boisterous. The temperature is higher than in September, but the number of days on which rain falls, as well as the quantity, is usually the same. High winds and heavy squalls from the westward, with showers, commonly prevail at this season; and it sometimes happens that, owing to the force of the wind, the cold is as much felt as during the winter when calms prevail. The peach blossoms frequently suffer severely during this boisterous weather. Temperature at 8 A.M. 54 deg.; at 2 P.M. 62 deg.: and at 8 P.M. 53 deg. Showery days 11; wet days 4 1/2; and dry days 15 1/2.

In November the temperature increases rapidly, but, the weather continues unsettled; rain being almost as frequent as during the two preceding months. By shutting up the meadows early, grass would now be ready to cut; but, owing to the unsettled state of the weather in this month, a sufficient interval of fine dry weather for hay-making cannot be counted

WEATHER OF EACH MONTH.

upon. The practice is beginning to prevail of shutting up the grass later than was formerly the custom, so as to postpone the season of hay harvest until December. Temperature at 8 A.M. 59 deg.; at 2 P.M. 66 deg.; and at 8 P.M. 55 deg. Showery days 11; wet days 4; and dry days 15.

In December the weather is still warmer and more settled than in November; not so warm as January, but having commonly an equal number of dry days. Temperature at 8 A.M. 58 deg. Number of showery days 6 1/2; wet days 2 1/2; and dry days 22. For travelling in the bush this is one of the finest months.

A TABLE 2 of the Mean Temperature of the Air at Auckland; and showing the number of Showery, 3 Wet, and Dry Days.

[A TABLE of the Mean Temperature of the Air at Auckland; and showing the number of Showery,+ Wet, and Dry Days]

The following valuable meteorological table and explanatory notes were kindly furnished to the writer by Dr. A.S. Thomson, M.D., 58th Regiment.

METEOROLOGICAL TABLE FOR AUCKLAND, New Zealand, kept during the Years 1849, 1850, and 1831. The results are deduced from Observations made during all these years, unless otherwise stated.

METEOROLOGICAL TABLE.

1. – The mean annual temperature of Auckland during the above years was 59 1/4 deg., Fahrenheit's scale. This was drawn from four observations daily, and corresponds almost exactly with the mean temperature given by the late Dr. Johnson, Colonial Surgeon. Florence, Naples, Rome, Marseilles, Toulon, and some other places in Europe, have a similar mean annual temperature to Auckland; but the winter months are colder and the summer months are warmer in all these European places than in Auckland. The distinguishing feature of the temperature of Auckland is its monthly equability. The mean temperature –

Of the Summer months,
December, January, and February, is... 66deg..

Of the Autumn months,
March, April, and May........ 60deg.,

Of the Winter months,
June, July, and August.....52 1/2 deg.

Of the Spring months,
September, October, and November.... 57deg..

2. – The thermometer rarely rises above 84 deg. even for a few hours in the height of summer. This column indicates the mean of the three highest temperatures registered each month during three years.

3. – The lowest temperature is taken from a register thermometer. The temperature rarely falls to 32 deg. Fahrenheit. Snow I have never seen on the ground; and perhaps once a year, when the nights are clear, a thin layer of ice is seen on some very shallow pools of water. The temperature indicated by the thermometer may not be 32 deg. when this occurs; the evaporation tends to assist in the formation of ice. This column indicates the mean of the three lowest temperatures registered each month during three years. I have seen the register thermometer at 32 deg. Fahrenheit.

4. – The average daily range is the difference between the lowest temperature on the register thermometer during the

AUCKLAND AND THE COUNTRY ADJACENT.

night, and the highest in the shade during the day. The average daily range for the whole year is 14 deg. This is considerable. At London the average daily range is 11 deg.; at Montpelier, 12 deg.; at Hastings, 12 deg.; at Rome, 11 deg.; at Newport, Isle of Wight, 14 1/2 deg..

5. – The temperature of the Solar Rays was drawn from observations made in 1849 and 1850. A thermometer was placed in the sun's rays, in a place sheltered from the wind, about 2 P.M., and the temperature observed. The highest seen was 125 deg. The result given is the mean of two years.

6. – These hygrometric observations were made during two years, 1849-50. A thermometer was hung up in a shady place, not exposed to the wind; its bulb was covered with muslin, which was moistened with water, and the fall of temperature caused by the evaporation registered in the morning, at noon, and in the evening. February, December, and January, are the months during which the air is dryest. The average fall during the year was 4 3/4 deg..

7. – One hundred and fifty-five is the average number of days on which rain fell at Auckland during the year. This is the mean of three years' observation, and includes every day on which any rain fell, even if the quantity was not sufficient to affect the pluviometer. It is necessary to bear in mind that many of these were fine pleasant days, and during most of them out-door work could be carried on. Thus, in 1851, there were 148 days on which rain fell, but only 34 were what could be denominated rainy days. Dr. Johnson, Colonial Surgeon, found, on an average drawn from four years' observation (1840 to 1844), that there were 157 rainy and showery days at Auckland. In England the rainy and showery days are almost equally distributed over the whole year; but at Auckland there are twice as many rainy days during the three winter months as during the three summer months.

8. – The average annual fall of rain at Auckland during the foregoing years was 42 1/2 inches. During the year 1851 only 34 inches fell; and Dr. Johnson found that the quantity of rain at Auckland, for the year ending August, 1844, was

METEOROLOGY – WINDS.

31 inches. The average fall of rain in the United Kingdom is about 34 inches annually; but in the western or hilly countries it is 48 or 50 inches.

9. – The column marked "highest" barometer, indicates the mean of the three highest measurements registered each month during three years. A similar remark is applicable to the column marked "lowest." The mean annual height of the barometer at Auckland is 29 deg. 86'. The annual range, 1 deg. 17'. The lowest range I have seen the barometer at Auckland was 28 deg. 96'. This occurred on the 18th October 1848, the day on which the severe earthquake occurred at Wellington. The two barometers in my possession gave the same results on this day.

Winds at Auckland. – Fine dry weather is sometimes seen in all winds; but, as a rule, when winds having a northerly direction prevail, the weather is often cloudy and unsettled, atmosphere moist: the thermometer rises a few degrees, and northerly winds often terminate in a short gale. When winds having much westerly prevail, the weather is often unsettled with showers; it frequently blows very hard from the west in winter and spring. Easterly gales often occur about the full and change of the moon, and blow for two or three days on such occasions: in winter these easterly gales are often very violent. When the winds have a considerable southerly direction, the weather is fine, atmosphere dry, sky clear, and the thermometer falls.

There is a sea breeze sets in from the north about 10 A.M., in calm weather, and dies away at sunset, when a light land breeze from the southward occasionally springs up.

1 Dr. Shortland, after personal experience of the climates of New Zealand and the Continent, expressed the same opinion. "New Zealand, being an island at a distance from any continent, enjoys a remarkably equable temperature, as the wind may vary many points without its quality being at the same time sensibly changed. In this it is vastly superior to the south of France and Italy, where the full enjoyment of a delicious climate is constantly interrupted by the chill of the piercing mistral, or by the scorching blast of the sirocco, which causes variations of temperature both sudden and excessive. On this account, especially, New Zealand is for the phthisical patient a most desirable residence. There is not, certainly, I will venture to say, among all the coveted climates of the Northern Hemisphere, one, except Madeira, which will bear comparison with it in this respect." – Shortland's New Zealand.

2 The average result of four years' observations with a thermometer placed in the shade and exposed to a free current of air.

3 For the same period. – The showery days note the slightest showers that fall during the 24 hours. The rainy days – rain for three hours continual. The dry days are with few exceptions bright and sunny.

CHAPTER V.

AUCKLAND AND THE COUNTRY ADJACENT.

CHAPTER V.

Auckland; Social and Domestic.

Considering its size, Auckland possesses the elements of a considerable society. The population of the borough amounts to between 7,000 and 8,000, of whom about 4,500 occupy the town and its suburbs.

The officers of the Civil Government are themselves a numerous body. Being the head-quarters of the Bishopric of New Zealand and of the Church of Rome – the centre of the Church Missionary Society's operations in New Zealand, and of the Wesleyan Mission for the South Seas – Auckland has an advantage over most small colonial communities in the number of its Ministers of religion. It is also the head-quarters of a Regiment; and has representatives from the brigade, commissariat, artillery, and engineer departments. Two battalions of Military pensioners, enrolled for service in New Zealand, with their officers, are located in the neighbourhood; and a ship of war frequently lies at anchor in the port.

ITS RESIDENTS AND SOCIETY.

A banking establishment connected with the Union Bank of Australia has also been established here. The officers and others connected with these various establishments, and their families, with a number of professional and mercantile men. together form materials for a very considerable society; but in what may be termed its fashionable phase, the military element predominates.

In many respects, Auckland resembles an English watering-place. Most of the people, for instance, are living in comparatively small and inconvenient houses – many of them being, and feeling themselves to be, but temporary residents in the country. Acquaintances are quickly formed, but are often suddenly broken by separation. New settlers and others are from time to time arriving. Officers and their families, after being settled for a while, are suddenly sent "on detachment," ordered to "the depot," or go home on leave, and are succeeded by strangers. As the naval officers are becoming friends and favourites on the station, their ship is suddenly relieved, and they also give place to new faces. As in a watering-place, there is little formal or state visiting; but there is much social intercourse amongst friends: easy, familiar, and without restraint. Although there is no lack of hospitality, there is but little extravagance or vain ostentation; and none of that foolish and expensive rivalry once so ruinously common in our colonial possessions.

There is, of course, little of the staid formality which characterizes the society of an old settled

AUCKLAND AND THE COUNTRY ADJACENT.

English town; much more freedom of manner and action; less uniformity, and more originality. There being few old people, no body of landed gentry, and no old settled families of independent means, no fixed standard of public opinion has yet been established, and society is mainly governed by the good sense and right feeling of its individual members; consequently, its usages, if such they may be called, differ considerably – but, in some respects, by no means disagreeably – from those of an English county or cathedral town.

New comers, especially those who have had no experience of the "tittle-tattle," common, all the world over, in small communities, are struck with the prevalence of "gossip." But finding that it is "neighbour's fare" – that it is no respecter of persons – that its equal pressure in all directions destroys its force – they soon become almost as unconscious of its existence as of the air they breathe.

In one respect, Auckland is happily distinguished from most small colonial communities. Society is not divided by political animosities or religious bickerings. Party spirit is neither violent nor general; and, owing to the perfect ventilation afforded by the newspapers, the political atmosphere never becomes surcharged by an accumulation of noxious vapours. In colonies, especially those not having representative institutions, a free and independent press is absolutely essential; and in all our colonies the press does actually enjoy unbounded freedom of speech. But this very liberty sometimes impairs its real influ-

SOCIAL HABITS – NEWSPAPERS – DRESS.

ence: unchecked freedom of speech tempts to the habitual use of strong language, and what is gained in freedom is lost in weight; for, by constant use, the strongest language is looked upon as but the "common form." Like a piece of music without any piano parts – pitched throughout in a high key, without modulation – the same air being constantly repeated without variation – the tone of the press in our colonies is sometimes more noisy than effective. In Auckland there are two newspapers, both published twice a week, which afford abundant facilities for those who love to see themselves in print. For real grievances or for wounded vanity, for disappointed ambition and for injured innocence, a vacant column is ever ready.

A little more attention to dress, and somewhat more formality of manner, are observable in Auckland than in the other settlements. The colonial practice of standing idly smoking at the shop doors in broad daylight, and of wearing a bush costume, is more honoured in the breach than the observance. There is little, in fact, in the dress of the people to remind a stranger that he is out of England. Black hats and dark cloth coats do not, as in warmer climates, give place to cotton jackets and straw hats. Mouslin-de-laines sometimes do duty for silks and satins; in other respects, ladies dress much the same in Auckland as in England: but being so far removed from the fountain head, it cannot be surprising if they are now and then, though very unintentionally, a leetle behind the fashion.

AUCKLAND AND THE COUNTRY ADJACENT.

In so small a community, much amusement cannot of course be expected. Once a week, during the summer, a regimental band plays for a couple of hours on the well-kept lawn in the government grounds; and with the lovers of music, and those who are fond of "seeing and being seen," "the band" is a favourite lounge. Three or four Balls in the course of the year, a Concert or two, an occasional pic-nic or water party, a visit to the Gold field, or to the Island of Kawau, a trip to the Waikato, or the lakes of Roturua, are among the few amusements which aid in beguiling the lives of the Auckland fashionable circle; while dissipation in the milder form of temperance and tea-meetings, school-feasts, stitcheries and lectures, suffices for the recreation of the graver portion of the Auckland community. To sportsmen, the place offers few attractions: the annual race meeting is the great event of their year. Of hunting there is none; and wild ducks, pigeons, and curlew, afford but indifferent sport for the gun. Riding, boating, cricket, and bush excursions, are the favourite out-door amusements. Once in the year, nearly the whole of the ball-going portion of the community are brought together at a Ball given by the Queen's representative, on the anniversary of Her Majesty's birth-day. Invitations are issued to nearly 200; each successive Governor taking for his guidance the list of the last preceding reign, making such additions to it as his judgment, taste, or fancy may suggest. As a general rule, strangers are well received, but a false step at start-

AMUSEMENTS – APPRECIATION OF CHARACTER.

ing is not easily recovered; and those who care for social position would do well to provide themselves with a suitable introduction.

A new-comer is immediately recognised. Fresh from the great centre of civilization, and clad in dress of newest fashion, an air of conscious superiority not unfrequently betrays itself at every look and gesture. But not more surely does a new member find his level in that dread ordeal the Commons House of Parliament, than a new-arrival in this infant capital. In apprehension of character the people are marvellously clear-sighted; quick in detecting it, and just in its appreciation: no one can long pass for what he is not. Mere adventitious advantages, unaccompanied by solid worth, are of small account: pretension and assumption are quickly seen through, and valued at their worth. Rank, station, fortune, family connection, unless supported by character, ability, public spirit, or liberality, receive but small respect; while ready homage is always paid to real merit. The new-arrival, if not distinguished by some useful or agreeable quality, soon finds his level in a modest insignificance. Many who, on landing, move confidently on with buoyant step and lofty mien, may soon be seen passing modestly along, undistinguished from the common crowd.

Almost the only serious drawback to New Zealand as a place of residence for ladies, is the difficulty of finding and keeping good servants: a difficulty by no means greater in New Zealand probably than

AUCKLAND AND THE COUNTRY ADJACENT.

in other colonies; but not the less felt on that account. The families of the pensioners have not supplied the demand, in the manner and to the extent that was anticipated; and those of the "needle-women" who have proved to be a valuable addition to the community, were too few in number to supply the demand. Good servants, too, brought out from England, cannot, of course, be expected long to remain single; and even if they do make promise of perpetual celibacy, they cannot of course be expected to observe it. Small girls are the main resource of housekeepers; and a constant succession of them is continually in a course of training. The temper, time, and patience expended in the process are not, however, entirely thrown away; for though they may not turn their teaching to account as the staid domestic servant of the settler, they are doubtless better qualified to become true "help-meets" to the "rising generation:" but few are patriotic enough to derive much comfort from this somewhat bird's-eye view of the question. Almost everything necessary to comfort and convenience may now be procured in Auckland; but not always of the best quality. Although cheaper than Wellington, Auckland is by no means a cheap place of residence: certainly not more so than an English town of the same size. House-rent and servants' wages are at least double what they are in England; but there are no taxes, rates, or dues of any kind. Clothing of all kinds is also, of course, dearer in New Zealand than in England.

COST OF LIVING.

Wine, spirits, and groceries are, for the most part, cheaper. Bread and butchers' meat are about the same. The fish caught near Auckland, although of but moderate quality, is plentiful and cheap. Vegetables are also abundant: during the summer of 1852, there were brought into market by the natives, in canoes alone, upwards of 1,100 kits of onions (about twenty tons); upwards of 4,000 kits of potatoes (more than one hundred tons); besides corn, cabbages, and kumeras. Peaches, grown by the natives, and sufficiently good for culinary purposes, are very abundant and cheap: during the present summer upwards of 1,200 kits were brought into Auckland by canoes alone. Those who cultivate a garden are well supplied with peaches, strawberries, apples, figs, and melons; while plums, pears, gooseberries, and cherries are by no means uncommon, although less abundant than the former.

To those who live in the bush, or at a distance from the town, and who are independent of hired labour, the cost of living in the northern part of New Zealand is very cheap. A tolerable house can be built of raupo at a cost of about 10l. Pigs can be purchased from the natives for less than 2d. a pound. Poultry, and turkeys in particular, thrive better than in England, and almost feed themselves; wheat, potatoes, pumpkins, &c., can be easily raised; or can be purchased for a trifle from the natives. And for life in the bush, the most inexpensive clothing is sufficient.

It is no inconsiderable compensation for some of

AUCKLAND AND THE COUNTRY ADJACENT.

the minor drawbacks of a colonial life, to those who reside in New Zealand, to feel that they are not surrounded by a population suffering from want or privation of the necessaries of life. As far as mere food is concerned, the whole European community may be said to live well: those who have not, or who could not have, animal food twice a day would think themselves ill off. A beggar would be looked upon as a curiosity; and those who may be reduced to distress by an accident or sudden bereavement, always meet with the ready and effectual sympathy of friends and neighbours. And indeed it may with truth be said of the people of Auckland and its neighbourhood that they are ever ready, according to their means, to aid in works of charity and benevolence.

Strange as it may seem, both person and property are more secure in this once-dreaded land than in civilized England; for, with the exception of petty pilfering, crime is rare. Fearing, probably, a collision between the colonists and the natives, the founders of some of the more recent settlements have planted them far away to the southward, and as distant as possible from the native-peopled districts. But a different feeling prevails among the northern colonists: the people of Auckland and its neighbourhood were, for several years, almost entirely supplied by the natives with animal food, fish, potatoes, corn, and firewood; and, to a considerable extent, with labour. The natives have also been extensive purchasers of horses, flour-mills, and coasting craft;

GOOD CONDUCT OF THE NATIVES.

large consumers of imported goods; and, by means of their labour, they have also largely augmented the exports of the north. In the absence of the natives, but little flax and not a single kauri spar would be exported from New Zealand. Their territorial rights as owners of the soil, too, have always been scrupulously recognised and respected by the settlers in the district; each party, from the first, has seen the advantage to be derived from the presence of the other, and friendly relations have uniformly been maintained between them. Good-humoured, ever ready to enjoy a joke and a laugh, and always appearing self-satisfied and contented, the presence of the natives does much to give life to the northern district of New Zealand.

In a small community so far removed from the bustle of the world, there cannot, of course, be many events of general interest; consequently a general impression prevails that time passes quickly. In earlier times, doubtless, when the settlers met to train to arms, and the churches were loopholed – when pahs were assaulted, and English settlements were swept away – there were incidents enough of stirring interest. But now, happily, all that is changed, and the incident of most general interest is the arrival of an English mail. The whole community, from the Governor downwards, are on the alert at the prospect of receiving intelligence from England. Houses commanding a view of the flag-staff are considered to have a decided advantage for the prospect. Some there are of whom it is

AUCKLAND AND THE COUNTRY ADJACENT.

scarcely too much to say that they keep a constant watch upon the Telegraph; and not a few at morning, noon, and night, turn a keen eye in the same direction. Hour after hour, and sometimes day after day, "that observed of all observers" will "make no sign," but continue to maintain an attitude of provoking and imperturbable composure. Suddenly, however, a ball appears on one of its outstretched arms, signifying a sail in sight; but what may be her rig cannot yet be made out by the signal-man. And now commences speculation. "It may be the William Hyde, from London. She is a fast sailer; and if she sailed at the time appointed, she has been out 100 days. She will bring us late news." Or, "perhaps it is the Moa from Sydney; if so, she may bring an English mail." In the course of an hour, the range of speculation is narrowed. A flag appears at the eastern yard-arm, Indicating the coming vessel to be a brig; so it cannot be the William Hyde, for she is a barque. The sanguine expectation, of letters direct from England, is now considerably abated. But to the Initiated – a favoured few – the oracle now speaks plainly. A stream of flags adorns the telegraph, and indicates the "number" of the coming brig. Those who possess a copy of "Marryat's signals" are eagerly consulted, and speedily it is pronounced to be the brig John Wesley, direct from England. A few minutes after she has dropped her anchor, a boat comes on shore; a number of bags are seen to be landed, and it soon becomes known throughout

ARRIVAL OF AN ENGLISH MAIL.

the town that she has brought "a large English mail." And now comes a trial of patience. A large mail is rarely delivered within less than four hours after its arrival. The usual hour for closing the Post Office is four o'clock; it is now two o'clock. Will the letters be delivered to-day? A notice makes its appearance on the door of the Post Office that there will be no delivery until to-morrow morning at ten o'clock. To-morrow morning comes: long before the appointed hour, men, women, and children, and people of every degree, begin to collect around the letter-box door; and when the delivery commences there is a rush, a squeeze, and a struggle, like the rush at the pit-door of a theatre on the performance of a new and popular play. It sometimes happens that English letters arrive, with less note of eager expectation: by the overland mail, perhaps, from the south; or it may be by some smaller coaster by way of Manukau; but be it as it may, the arrival of an English mail is an event of lively, never-failing interest. Let those who are accustomed to penny-postage and hourly deliveries, imagine, if they can, the non-delivery of letters for a period of three weeks; they may then form some idea of the eagerness with which letters from England are received by the dwellers in this distant quarter of the world.

To receive English letters on an average about once only in three weeks – letters which, under the most favourable circumstances, are at least four months old – is generally complained of as one of the most serious drawbacks to a residence at so great a

AUCKLAND AND THE COUNTRY ADJACENT.

distance from home. Bad as it is, however, the evil would be tolerable compared with the aggravation of it, to which the public here are subjected in consequence of the ignorance of the Post Office authorities in England of the topography of New Zealand, and of the unfrequent and irregular means of intercommunication between its several settlements. Instead of sending all Auckland letters either by vessels direct to this port or by way of Sydney, mails for Auckland are not unfrequently despatched by vessels bound for Canterbury, or Nelson, or Wellington; the consequence is that letters and newspapers frequently arrive here six, seven, eight, and nine months old: in the mean while, later dates have been received direct, and the newspapers, when they do arrive, are put aside unread, having become but records of old news; and private letters are deprived of nearly all their interest. Upon inquiry into the cause of the delay, it is found that the letters in question were sent by a ship bound for Canterbury; that they remained in the Post Office there for a fortnight, waiting for the next opportunity to be forwarded; they were then despatched in about ten days by the overland mail; and that, after an overland journey of a month, they reached Auckland six or eight months after date. All this, however, is about to be changed; for instead of being the most remote, New Zealand will shortly be to England the nearest of her Australasian possessions. The establishment of steam communication between Great Britain and the Australasian colonies by way of Panama – a project shortly to be accomplished – will have the effect of causing

POSTAL COMMUNICATION.

New Zealand to be no longer practically the most remote dependency of the Crown. It is not easy to over-estimate the advantage likely to accrue to Auckland, by being thus brought into the line of speedy, frequent, and regular communication between Great Britain and the neighbouring colonies. The distance from London will probably not exceed fifty days. The voyage thus shortened, and varied by touching at some of the West India Islands, crossing the Isthmus of Panama, touching also at Tahiti, &c, will then be little more than a pleasure-trip.

In the meantime, however, it would do the Auckland public an essential service to bring the following facts under the notice of the Postmaster-general: – That about once in six weeks a vessel is despatched from London to Auckland direct – average voyage four months. That on the average one vessel a fortnight arrives here from Sydney; and that English letters by this route are less than five months old. But that if letters for Auckland be sent by a ship to Wellington they would be nearer six than five months old on their arrival here – and for this reason: by sea, there is not an opportunity of forwarding mails from Wellington to Auckland once in three months; and the overland mail is despatched but once a fortnight, and occupies a month to make the journey. To send Auckland letters by a vessel bound for Nelson or Canterbury would still further retard their delivery, by at least a fortnight. It should be a rule, then, at the post-office department in England, on no occasion to forward letters addressed

AUCKLAND AND THE COUNTRY ADJACENT.

to Auckland except by vessels bound direct for Auckland or by way of Sydney. The observance of this rule would cost the department nothing, and would relieve the community here from a serious grievance: the more annoying because it is known to be neither necessary nor irremediable; and naturally irritating, because it appears to originate in the ignorance, negligence, or indifference of a department distinguished by the attention, vigilance, and despatch with which, in England, its business is conducted. If some such rule be not adopted by the post-office authorities, every one who would have his letters reach their destination before they are six months old, ought to take the rule for his own guidance, and direct them to be sent by the first vessel bound direct for Auckland; or if no vessel be about to sail for Auckland direct, then direct them to be forwarded "via Sydney."

The arrival of "a box from England" is an event which creates still more lively and exciting pleasure; but it is an event of rare occurrence, and confined in its interest comparatively to a few. The degree of pleasure enjoyed by the receiver of "the box" may be imagined when it is known that it is quite worth while to be but present at the opening of a box received by another, for the sake of the reflected pleasure to be enjoyed from witnessing the animated delight of the happy recipient, as she draws out, and unfolds to view, one by one, its various contents. Let those who have a fair friend in New Zealand, whose exile they would cheer by something more

"A BOX FROM ENGLAND."

than a momentary pleasure, try the experiment sending her a box, and they shall not be disappointed. What shall be its contents must depend upon the taste of the absent friend for whom it is intended. A little new music, good drawing pencils and paper; boots and shoes of good quality, well made and of fitting shape; ditto gloves; the "book of the season," novel, travels, or biography, &c, according to taste; a piece of crochet-work of the last new pattern; the last new paletot, or a chambord cloak of the newest style; a Talbotype miniature; an assortment of wools; and a ball-dress, of colour and material suited to the figure and complexion of the intended wearer: these, and a few nick-nacks to fill up the box, will secure for the gift a ready acceptance, and for the giver a grateful remembrance. There would be no objection to its being known in the neighbourhood that "a box" was about to be made up, in order that friends and neighbours might have an opportunity of contributing their mite. But no letters should be admitted. Sent by post, letters will be received within a few hours after the arrival of the ship; but if sent in a box, they will probably remain for a week at least in the vessel before they shall have been disinterred from the depths of her hold.

But perhaps no picture of the business and amusements of a people can be given so faithful and lifelike as may be gathered from the pages of their local newspapers. Take as an illustration the New Zealander, for Wednesday, the 21st of January 1852.

AUCKLAND AND THE COUNTRY ADJACENT.

The New Zealander is published at Auckland twice a week; the number referred to, chronicles the sayings and doings of the Auckland public for the four preceding days. The Shipping Intelligence informs them that during that time ten small coasting vessels had arrived from the neighbouring ports, with their various cargoes of pork, apples, onions, pigs, peaches, maize, flax, and firewood. That on the 15th there were at Monganui twenty-seven whalers, chiefly American. That H.M.'s S. Calliope had arrived at that port, and sailed again for Wellington. That H.M.'s brigantine Pandora and schooner Bramble had also touched at Monganui. The Governor Wynyard steamer is advertised to sail between Auckland and Otahuhu (on the Tamaki). Another advertisement informs the public that "this new steamer is open for engagement for excursions, pic-nics, &c, on reasonable terms." The brig Emma is advertised to sail for Sydney, the schooner Julia for Canterbury, the clipper schooner Cicely for Taranaki, and the Baltimore clipper schooner Falmouth for San Francisco. The master of the "Auckland Academy" intimates that his academy will be re-opened on Monday next. "Branches taught – English Reading and Grammar, Writing, Arithmetic, Geography, Mathematics, Latin, Greek, &c" The public are also informed that the Grammar-school, Victoria-cottage, will also re-open on Monday, January 26th. Tenders for the annual army contracts are called for by the Commissariat-office; and under the head of "Onions," we are informed that "the undersigned

"THE NEW ZEALANDER" NEWSPAPER.

are purchasers of onions in quantities of one ton and upwards." The announcement of 100l. REWARD next attracts the eye. Under this title we find that "100l. has been subscribed as a reward to any one who shall first discover an available Gold Field in the Province of New Ulster (New Zealand)." A column and a half is occupied with a list of books to be sold by auction. And an advertiser makes it known that "twenty-five tons good potatoes are wanted by Saturday next." A goodly portion of space is taken up with a report of the proceedings of the Auckland Municipal Council – of motions made and withdrawn, amendments proposed, reports presented, and of matters referred to select committees. So much for business. Now, for amusement. Under the title of "Cricket," we find that the concluding and decisive match was played on Friday, when the Aucklanders proved victorious over the Military; "the Auckland Club winning with three wickets to go down." "The band of the 58th Regiment will perform in the grounds in front of the old Government-house, to-morrow (Thursday) afternoon, from four till six o'clock," is the next announcement. Then follows the "programme," containing a selection from the music of Donizetti, Strauss, Jullien, Balfe, &c The sporting world are informed that "Mr. J. Codlin's bay gelding Jack is open to run any horse, mare, or gelding in the country, &c, for 100l. aside;" and the "Auckland Regatta" is announced to take place on Thursday, the 29th. Eleven prizes are offered to be contested for by

AUCKLAND AND THE COUNTRY ADJACENT.

boats of every description of shapes, names, and size: "For small canoes, not to be manned by more than twelve natives;" and for "canoes manned by an unlimited number of natives." The literary world, too, makes sign of life – "Now published, price one shilling, Two Lectures on the Aborigines of New Zealand, &c.;" and "Just published, price one shilling, Why and Because, an Essay on the strange infatuation that stimulates individuals to the practice of Intemperance." Nor are the wants of the epicure overlooked: various advertisements inform him where Burgundy, Claret, Champagne, White Hermitage, Hock and Moselle, Yarmouth Bloaters, Kippered Salmon, Pickled Oysters, Hare Soup, &c, can be procured at a moment's notice. Of some forty other advertisements one may be cited for the purpose of piquing the reader's curiosity – "On sale, three bales of Gunny Bags!" The editorial column is occupied with the great event of the preceding day, – "The launching, and now the actual plying," says the editor, "upon our waters, of a steam vessel, in all its parts constructed by the skill and industry of Auckland artificers, as well as owned by Auckland proprietors, 4 may without exaggeration be regarded as an event in the history of our settlement and colony." We are then told that the cere-

LIFE IN NEW ZEALAND.

mony of naming was performed in the usual manner by the mayor; that after receiving the name of The Governor Wynyard, she proceeded on her trip, gallantly buffeting wind and waves, and that all things considered, this, her first excursion, passed off in as satisfactory a manner as could have been anticipated. Thus, from the pages of a single newspaper, is to be gathered a picture of the business, occupations, and amusements of the community, more truthful and lifelike than could in any other manner have been pourtrayed for the benefit of the distant spectator.

Such, then, "little extenuating, and setting down nought in malice," is a faithful picture of Auckland, social and domestic. To the frequenters of Almack's, the Opera, Ascot, and the Highlands, it will probably appear surprising that people can be found capable of surviving a lengthened residence in this half-barbarous distant land. But, on the other hand, it may be doubted whether those who have been accustomed to the easy freedom of society in New Zealand, would gain much addition to their enjoyment by exchanging it for the chilling atmosphere, and the stiff, cold, formal usages of English fashionable life. For fine ladies, whose happiness depends on the luxuries, refinements, and thousand trifles which are thought essential in highly civilized life, and to the mere idle man of pleasure, without occupation and without an object, a small community in a newly settled country, can have no attractions; but those who are occupied with the ordinary business of life make no complaint of the

AUCKLAND AND THE COUNTRY ADJACENT.

dullness of existence; while those who are advancing the outposts, and acting as pioneers of civilization – those who are gallantly leading the all but forlorn hope of preserving and maintaining an aboriginal native race, or who are actively engaged, whether in Church or State, in laying the foundations, and rough-hewing the institutions of a future empire – instead of lamenting that their lot has been cast in the stony places of a dark and distant land, appear rather, in its very remoteness, in the depth of its darkness, and in the rugged character of the country and its people, to find in New Zealand its principal charms.

4 It ought to be recorded, to the credit of their enterprising spirit, that Messrs. Stone, Gardiner, and Langford, of Auckland, were the projectors, builders, and owners of the first Steam Vessel that was launched on the waters of New Zealand.

CHAPTER VI

THE GOLD DISCOVERY.

CHAPTER VI.

The Gold Discovery.

DURING the greater part of the year 1852, the extraordinary productiveness of the Australian gold fields was drawing together from all parts of the world, to the neighbouring continent, a large and rapidly increasing population, and establishing at the same time, within a convenient distance, a ready market for the surplus produce of New Zealand.

Notwithstanding the encouraging prospects thus unexpectedly opening to New Zealand, it was fortunate for the colony that the previous experience of Californian adventure had taught the settlers that gold seeking is but a lottery, and that even gold itself may be purchased at too dear a rate; for there can be but little doubt that, if the hidden treasures lying within a distance of but ten days' sail had been brought to light before the Californian discoveries had been made, that the colony would, for a time at least, have been deserted by the greater portion of its labouring population. And still the intelligence

AUCKLAND AND THE COUNTRY ADJACENT.

which arrived by every mail, of the marvellous prizes drawn by hundreds, naturally excited the minds of the people, rendered many dissatisfied with the profits of their ordinary occupations, and impatient until they had tried their fortunes in the golden lottery: during a period of several months, every vessel carried away numbers of the more adventurous and unsettled of the adult male population, intent on finding fortunes in the neighbouring field of gold.

The importance of the natives as an ever-ready resource for supplying the labour market, has always been clearly seen and generally appreciated by the English settlers; but never before was their value so strikingly apparent. The pensioners, also, enrolled for service in New Zealand, being limited by the terms of their agreement to certain specified localities in the colony, their value as a labouring force was now too obvious to be longer overlooked. Still, some alarm was felt lest labour should become so scarce and costly as to render New Zealand, with all its capabilities, practically valueless as a food-growing field for the rapidly increasing population of the neighbouring colonies; and an impression was generally entertained that nothing but the discovery of gold in New Zealand itself would prevent a ruinous drainage of the labour market.

Early in the year, indeed, reports had from time to time been raised that gold was found; and that, too, in the immediate neighbourhood of Auckland itself. And, although these alleged discoveries had proved to be without foundation, a belief was still entertained

REWARD FOR THE DISCOVERY OF GOLD.

that gold did exist in New Zealand, and that it would ultimately be found – an impression which was confirmed by the opinion of several persons who had then recently returned from California. Several "prospecting" parties now started in various directions, all eager for the search; but as they had little or no experience, and were for the most part indifferently equipped, their researches were desultory, superficial, and without success. As a last effort, a subscription was entered into by the inhabitants of Auckland and its neighbourhood, with a view to encourage the prosecution of an efficient and systematic exploration of the neighbouring country; and in the month of October, a reward of 500l. certain, was publicly offered to the first person who should discover and make known to the "Reward Committee" a "valuable gold field" in the northern district of New Zealand. Within less than a week, the reward was claimed by Mr. Charles Ring, a New Zealand settler, recently returned from California, who asserted that he had discovered gold In the neighbourhood of Coromandel Harbour.

The specimens produced by Mr. Ring were exceedingly small: but the question was, did they contain gold? And were they bona fide the produce of New Zealand? Having more than once been deceived, the public had become suspicious. Specimens had frequently been found, which had some resemblance to gold, but which proved to be iron pyrites and yellow mica; and gold itself had more than once been produced, but which did not prove to be native of New

AUCKLAND AND THE COUNTRY ADJACENT.

Zealand. It was speedily ascertained, however, that the specimens alleged to have been found by Mr, Ring did consist of a few small pieces of auriferous quartz, and some minute particles of gold dust. From the trustworthy character of the alleged discoverer, the report caused a general feeling of lively excitement; and it was so far believed to be well founded, that the Native Secretary proceeded to the Coromandel district, charged with a friendly communication from the Government to the principal native chiefs on whose land the gold was represented to be found: the "Reward Committee" also sent a deputation of inquiry to the specified locality.

For several days, during the absence of the subcommittee, the public were kept in a state of animated suspense, until Saturday the 23rd of October, when the Undine, in which the deputation had sailed, entered the harbour with flying colours, the "observed of all observers," to all appearance the harbinger of good news. The "Reward Committee" immediately met to receive the report of their subcommittee, and shortly afterwards all doubt was set at rest by the publication of the following announcement: –

"The committee appointed by the subscribers towards the Reward Fund deeming it to be desirable that the public should have correct information relative to the alleged discovery of gold, take this, the earliest opportunity, of stating that the deputation appointed by them to visit the locality of the alleged discovery have returned, and that the report is satis-

THE GOLD DISCOVERT CONFIRMED.

factory, in so far as the existence of gold is concerned; but that the question of its being sufficiently abundant to be profitably worked is yet in abeyance."

The existence of gold in its natural place of deposit, in an accessible locality, and within a convenient distance of Auckland, was now satisfactorily ascertained. There were some amongst the community who were satisfied with the already known resources of New Zealand; others who feared that the peace of the country would be endangered if gold were found on native lands; and many who anticipated no ultimate advantage to the material interest of the country from the discovery of gold, and no advantage, either present or prospective, in a moral or social point of view to either race of its inhabitants, from a sudden influx of lawless adventurers. By these the news of the discovery was received with but little satisfaction; but with these exceptions, a general feeling of pleasurable excitement pervaded the whole community, and the discovery in all its phases, actual and imaginary, present and future, probable and possible, now took complete possession of the public mind. The specimens as yet discovered, indeed, were minute in the extreme; but, satisfied that they were bona fide the produce of their own soil, the people were sufficiently happy if, but with a microscope, they could detect the smallest particle of the precious metal. And never probably did any community enjoy a higher degree of pleasurable excitement than did the people of Auckland

AUCKLAND AND THE COUNTRY ADJACENT.

for several weeks after it was ascertained that native gold had actually been discovered within sight of their own doors. What was the geological formation of the Coromandel district? Did the specimens indicate the existence of a rich deposit? Would the native owners of the land permit the search? Would the Government take any and what steps to secure for the public the benefit of the discovery? And on what terms, if at all, would the public be allowed to dig and search for gold? These naturally became the all-absorbing topics of the day. Almost every eye, too, was turned in the direction of Coromandel Harbour; and numerous parties immediately proceded to the scene of attraction, to satisfy themselves by personal observation of the existence of the golden treasure.

Within forty miles of Auckland, accessible from thence, in moderate weather, in an open boat – not more than two miles' distance from the shores of a harbour having water, shelter, and anchorage for vessels of any size – the Kapanga river, on which the gold was found, could hardly have been more conveniently situated for the general purposes of the discovery.

The mountain range in which the gold was found lies within 36 deg. 27' and 38 deg. S. latitude, and 175 deg. 20' and 175 deg. 50' E. longitude; and it has for the most part the true meridional trend; slightly inclining, however, to the N.W. at its northern, and to the S.E. at its southern extremity. Throughout its whole length, for upwards of sixty miles, the range

GEOLOGY OF THE GOLD-FIELD.

presents several remarkable peaks, varying in height from 2,000 to nearly 3,000 feet, and it is generally covered with dense forest in which the Kauri prevails.

So far as it has been yet explored, the range has been found to have a granitic basis, of which the principal features are composed. A variety of vertical schists repose on the steep sides of the granitic peaks; while the outlying features of the brow of the range are composed of conglomerate: – the whole being much disturbed by the protrusion of trappean rocks. In many parts basaltic caps rival the granitic peaks in height, and give to the whole mountain range a diversified and picturesque appearance.

In the detritus on the sides of the mountains, and in the beds of the stream, quartz occurs in detached blocks of various sizes, mixed with fragments of slate, granite and trap; but regular dykes of quartz are not generally met with, although they are reported to exist.

The bed of the Kapanga, in which the gold was found, consists of rocks of quartz, trap, and a bluish granite containing iron pyrites. The gold appears to come down the main stream; the tributaries being found less rich in the golden deposit; but the whole district to the east of the Kapanga is reported to contain specks of gold. The clay banks of the main stream, to a height of two or three feet above the water, are also reported to contain it abundantly; but in such small flakes as not to be preserved in the ordinary method of washing – the

AUCKLAND AND THE COUNTRY ADJACENT.

heavier grains being found below the level of the water; and the nearer to the bed rock the excavations were carried, the more abundant was found to be the yield of gold.

For some time after the discovery was made known, scarcely a day elapsed without an arrival at Coromandel Harbour of parties from Auckland, all intent on exploring the neighbourhood. But as yet, no arrangement had been entered into with the natives, who began to evince some uneasiness lest the ground should be occupied before any terms had been agreed upon; and, although friendly and well-disposed towards those who were then employed in prosecuting the search, they declared their unwillingness to permit any addition to the number.

The discovery having been made on land in the possession of the native owners of the soil, it was evident that a serious responsibility now devolved upon the executive authorities. Ought the Government to interfere? How were they to proceed? And when were they to act? were questions all demanding an immediate and prudent decision. The rights of the Crown – the rights of the owners of the soil – the interests of the public in the discovery – and the peace of the country itself, were all involved in the issue. When gold was discovered in the neighbouring colonies, the Australian government had to deal with an emergency of a novel and difficult character: but in New Zealand the emergency was rendered still more formidable by the fact

DIFFICULT POSITION OF GOVERNMENT.

that the gold was discovered, not, as in the Australian colonies, upon the land of the Crown, but upon that of an armed native race, jealous in the extreme of their territorial rights.

By the treaty of Waitangi, the Crown guaranteed to the natives of New Zealand the full, exclusive, and undisturbed possession of their lands and estates, forests, fisheries, and other properties; but by the same treaty, the natives, on the other hand, ceded to the Crown of England all the rights and powers of sovereignty which they had, or which they might be supposed to possess. It would no doubt therefore be held by English lawyers that the Crown, by virtue of her Majesty's sovereignty over the islands of New Zealand, was entitled to all gold in its natural place of deposit, though found on the lands of her Majesty's native subjects. But it was at the same time equally certain that the practical assertion of that right would be viewed by the natives of New Zealand as a violation of the terms of the treaty. To obtain for all classes of her Majesty's subjects a participation in the advantages of the discovery, having regard to the rights of the Crown – to the interests of the native owners of the soil, and to the maintenance of friendly relations with them – was the problem which was now to be solved; and it was obvious to all that nothing but the united efforts of the Government, the colonists, and the natives, to carry out some well-considered system for the working of the gold-field, would prevent the discovery of gold in New Zealand from proving an unmitigated

AUCKLAND AND THE COUNTRY ADJACENT.

curse. Whatever might be the terms of the arrangement to be entered into, it was essential that the entire management should be undertaken by her Majesty's Colonial Government. Pending the completion of the necessary arrangements, it also appeared desirable to prevent if possible a premature and unauthorized intrusion on the gold field, yet without putting a stop to further search.

Intelligence of the proceedings of the prospecting parties now reached Auckland almost daily; and for some weeks the reports were all of the same character. Gold in minute quantities was found by every party almost on the surface of the soil; but as yet no one had found it in sufficient quantities to remunerate him for the labour expended in the search. Early in November, however, the prospect began to be of a more promising character: one party being reported to have washed out two or three ounces of gold, including several nuggets, and to have averaged fair daily wages; and another party to have obtained half an ounce of gold by less than a day's labour. All, however, still laboured under the disadvantage of the want of troughs, pumps, and the means of raising the heavier rocks; but it was generally anticipated that, after diverting the stream and laying bare the bed rock, the labour would be rewarded by an abundant yield of gold.

As it now became probable that the discovery would prove to be of practical value to the colony, a proclamation was issued by the Government on the

MEASURES OF THE GOVERNMENT.

11th November, 5 warning the public against trespassing on the gold fields, and declaring that licenses to work the gold would be issued as soon as the necessary arrangements were completed: the report of the discovery of gold in New Zealand was then officially confirmed. As it was not the object of the proclamation, however, altogether to prohibit any further search, but rather to secure some control over the occupation of the district, a notice was published at the same time with the proclamation, to the effect that, until licenses should be issued, temporary permission to go on prospecting would be granted by the Government to those who might apply for it.

The natives in the Coromandel district now also began to take an active interest in the subject, and it was proposed by them that they should meet together for the purpose of considering the measures which it would be expedient for them to take with reference to the recent discovery. The 16th November was fixed on for the purpose, and Lieut. -Governor Wynyard having been invited to the intended meeting, signified to them his intention to be present.

The Legislative Council of the province was not then in session, and indeed had not yet been called together, but the greater number of its recently elected members were residing in Auckland and its immediate neighbourhood. Before proceeding to the Coromandel district, the Lieut.-Governor requested

AUCKLAND AND THE COUNTRY ADJACENT.

the members who were within reach, to meet him, in order that he might explain to them the views of the Government, and the measures proposed to be taken, and have the benefit of hearing any suggestions they might have to offer on the subject.

It was understood to be the intention of the Government, if possible, to obtain from the native owners of the soil, their active co-operation in a measure for making the discovery available to the public generally; on the understanding that the entire management of the gold field should be vested in the Executive Government.

That, in consideration of their becoming parties to the proposed arrangement, the Government would cause the names of the owners of the soil to be registered; and would recognise and support them as such against all other claimants. That the registered owners of the land should also be entitled to dig and search for gold free of any charge, and that some reasonable proportion of the license fees should be periodically paid over to them; the natives engaging to aid the Government in preventing the intrusion of unlicensed persons on the gold field.

The proposed arrangements were generally deemed to be just and reasonable; and the fact of their chosen representatives having been consulted on the subject, satisfied the community that the Government were intent on making the best terms for securing to the public at large a full participation in the advantage of the discovery. And the Government, on the other hand, being supported by public

THE COROMANDEL GOLD-FIELD

opinion, were placed in a favourable position for effecting the accomplishment of the proposed arrangement.

As the accounts from the Coromandel district were daily becoming more favourable, considerable anxiety was felt by the public for the success of the negotiations; for the natives might refuse to allow others to work upon the field, in the hope of keeping the treasure to themselves, or they might choose to retain the management in their own hands, and exact terms so exorbitant as practically to deny the public any participation in the benefits of the discovery.

The principal ground for anticipating a favourable issue for the negotiations was, the practical sound sense of the natives themselves. Their best friends, it was also believed, would urge the natives to become parties to the proposed plan; because it was evident that if they refused to come to any reasonable arrangement for placing the management of the gold fields in the hands of the Government, the Government would be driven either to grant licenses on its own terms, retaining the whole of the proceeds, and leaving the licensees to make their own terms with the natives, – or to give up the licensing system, and have recourse to an export duty: with this result, in either case, that the gold district must end in being a scene of disorder and contention – that no law but that of the strongest would prevail – and that the native occupants of the soil would have no security against being ultimately driven off the

AUCKLAND AND THE COUNTRY ADJACENT.

ground. Hence – as far as the interests of the natives are concerned – it was obvious to all that, provided they were recognised as the owners of the land, and that protection for their persons and their property was guaranteed to them by the Government, the proportion to be paid to them of the license fees was altogether a secondary question.

The time having arrived for the meeting of the native chiefs, the Lieut.-Governor now proceeded to Coromandel Harbour, and was shortly afterwards followed by the Bishop and the Chief Justice, who had been invited by the natives to be present.

All the parties being assembled, the Lieut.-Governor opened the business in a short address, informing them that he had come to offer them protection, – to concert with them measures for preserving order amongst the numbers who would probably be attracted to the spot by the news of the recent discovery – to listen to their own views upon the subject – and to give any explanation they might require as to the intentions of the Government.

The first person who came forward on the part of the natives, was a venerable-looking old man, Te Taniwha by name, one of the principal chiefs of the Coromandel district. He spoke shortly, but to the point. "O son! " said he (meaning another chief who claimed jointly with himself the Matawai gold field), "let this be our motto, – 'It is well – it is well.' These are the tokens of peace – the presence of the Governor, the Bishop, and the Chief Justice.

CONFERENCE WITH THE NATIVE CHIEFS.

Ye who are here, acknowledge these as your parents. My children, be not sad: it is well – all is well. The messengers of God – of truth – stand here; even the bone of that which is good. The arrangements are left to you, O Governor, the Bishop, and Chief Justice."

The presence of this aged chief – the last of his race, who can tell the tale of the white man's first arrival in New Zealand – his venerable appearance, and the occasion itself, gave to the meeting an unusual interest. Though bowed down, attenuated, and enfeebled by age, the old man retains the possession of his faculties; and in a remarkable degree possesses that bold outline of head and face which formerly distinguished the chieftains of the country. There stood the last living link between the "Past and Present" of New Zealand: – one who, in time long past, had stood face to face with England's honoured navigator, and who still lives to tell of his visit to New Zealand: how they all thought that the ship was a large kind of whale, and that the men on board were gods; how for some time he himself, then but a little boy, was afraid to go on board; how Captain Cook spoke little – less than the others – but took more notice of the children, patting them kindly on the head; and how he gave them the first potatoes they had seen. And now this venerable chief, as the crowning act of a long, eventful life, confiding in the justice of the British Crown, came forward to welcome the Queen's Vicegerent to the new found field of gold. When the first specimens

AUCKLAND AND THE COUNTRY ADJACENT.

were shown him of the gold discovered on his land, he said he should now be content to die: that he had lived many days, but that this was the brightest of them all. He did not seem, says the Surveyor-General, to value the consideration of the gain it would be to him, so much as the thought that his land – the place of his ancestors – should be the first to produce gold. Glancing at the time-honoured peak of Motu Tere, and then turning to the setting sun, he appeared to commune with the generation he had outlived.

Te Taniwha was followed by Hohepa Paraone at considerable length, but still to the same point: – "We have no wish to conceal the gold, or to let it remain in the earth: this is what we accede to, O Governor, for the gold to be taken, and the land to be left. But Waiau is the only place we will at present give up to be worked; but when we see that this works well, we will give up other places.".. "If the Governor is pleased with these thoughts, we will give up the gold to be worked. The owners of the land, however, will expect something for the gold." "Yes!" chimed in Te Taniwha, just waking from a doze – "Yes! let the gold be dug." Several other speakers also addressed the meeting, much to the same effect; their chief anxiety being not so much for the terms on which the gold was to be worked, as to ascertain that there was no intention on the part of the Government to interfere with, or call in question, their ownership of the soil. At length it was proposed by one of them that "the

TERMS FOR WORKING THE GOLD FIELD.

amount of payment be now named before all the people." Some difficulty arising in determining who should form the committee for discussing the details of the plan, the Lieutenant-Governor proposed an adjournment until the following day, when the terms of the proposed arrangement, written out at length, should be placed before them.

As the gold-bearing country terminating in Cape Colville appeared to extend southward for a distance of sixty miles, with an average breadth of ten miles (thus comprising an area of six hundred square miles), it was deemed to be desirable that the owners of the various portions of the whole district should be induced to become parties to one and the same arrangement. At the adjourned meeting on the following day, it was therefore proposed by the Lieut.-Governor that the whole of this district should be placed, by the respective owners of the land, under the management of the Government, for the purpose of searching for and working the gold, for a period of three years. That, for this right of search, the Government should pay to the owners of the soil one pound a year for each square mile; but that if, during any year, there should be more than five hundred persons licensed by the Government to search for gold, but not more than one thousand such persons, then the Government should pay one pound ten shillings a year for each square mile; and that if the number exceeded one thousand, but did not exceed fifteen hundred, that the sum to be paid for each square mile should be two pounds a year, and

AUCKLAND AND THE COUNTRY ADJACENT.

so on in proportion. After considerable discussion, and frequent and minute explanation, the terms were agreed to, by the principal owners of that portion of the district in which the gold had already been found. The land thus brought into the arrangement, extended over an area of about sixteen square miles, or ten thousand acres. A further sum of two shillings a month for each licensed person was afterwards guaranteed by the Lieut.-Governor to the natives who had become parties to the proposed terms.

Taking a short-sighted view of the question, the sum to be paid to the natives may appear to be less than they are fairly entitled to. But looking to the uncertain value of the district as a gold field, and the enormous expenses apparently incident to the management of the gold fields of Australia – seeing;, too, that the natives are guaranteed in the peaceable possession of their land; that the Colonial Legislature, if large terms had been promised, might be tempted to disavow the contract; that the Government undertake to bear all the expenses of the arrangement; and that the agreement was entered into by the natives with the advice of the Bishop and Chief Justice, who attended the meeting expressly in the character of their friends – the arrangement in question can hardly be impugned.

Several meetings afterwards took place with the owners of other portions of the district, but for the present they declined to come into the arrangement; Taraia, one of the most influential of the Chiefs of the Thames, declaring that he would wait to see the

SUCCESS OF THE FIRST GOLD FINDERS.

working of the plan at Coromandel, and that, if it turned out well, he would himself give up his lands to be worked.

The assent of the natives to the working of the district having been obtained, public attention was again centred on the question of the probable productiveness of the gold field itself. About the middle of November, gold was discovered on the eastern side of the Coromandel range, at Arataonga, a small harbour, facing the great Mercury Island. "I went there on yesterday," says the reporter, "prospecting, and found gold in the first pan washed. The range is about 2,000 feet in height, and is crowned by a sharp ridge of white quartz rock. Out of about six pans washed, four gave gold specks and grains. Gold was also discovered in the Wairau, a creek on the eastern side of Coromandel harbour, flowing between steep banks, over a bed of hard quartzose slate." But the most exciting news from the gold district, was a report which reached Auckland towards the end of November, that a working party had, in the course of a quarter of an hour, out of about twenty shovels-full of yellow clay, obtained a quantity of gold of the estimated value of two pounds. As yet, however, weights and scales had hardly found their way to the gold field; but, with some allowance for sanguine calculation, the report was substantially correct, and naturally caused considerable excitement amongst the people. The most lively calculations were immediately made. "If twenty shovels-full

AUCKLAND AND THE COUNTRY ADJACENT.

yield 2l, what will be the produce of the whole excavation?" No one paused to consider that, although it might be true that the particular twenty shovels-full had yielded half an ounce of gold, it did not follow that every other twenty shovels would yield the like amount. But the party were at once looked upon as the favourites of fortune, and the precise amount of their future gains was reduced to a simple rule-of-three question: there were four quarters in an hour, twelve working hours in a day, and, resting on Sundays, three hundred and thirteen working days in a year; and it was calculated that if four men had made 21, in a quarter of an hour, they would make 40,000l. in the year. It was assumed, too, that what one party could do, others could do also; and prices, already high, now rose still higher, and golden visions dazzled all but the coolest heads.

In order to check an immediate and indiscriminate rush to the spot, and to begin from the first with order and regularity, the Government now issued provisional regulations, 6 under which licenses might be obtained by the public to dig, search for, and remove alluvial gold. These regulations contain many stringent provisions, with a view to prevent unauthorized intrusion, either on the gold field, or on the adjoining land; and to secure peaceable and orderly conduct on the field: but they are not, probably, more stringent than the peculiar circumstances of the emergency may require.

FIRST SALE OF AUCKLAND GOLD.

The excitement caused by the last gold news continued for several days, and the public soon became impatient to see their calculations realized by the appearance in the market of gold in considerable quantity; but, for a period of ten days or a fortnight, little or no gold was to be seen. The sight of even a single ounce of the precious metal would now have satisfied the most impatient, and fancy prices were freely offered; still, not an ounce of native gold could be purchased in Auckland. The excitement began to subside, and a reaction followed; when suddenly the public was again reassured by the appearance of the following novel advertisement: –

SALE OF
AUCKLAND GOLD.
CONNELL & RIDINGS
Will sell by Public Auction, at their Mart, Queen-Street,
THIS DAY, SATURDAY, 11TH DECEMBER,
At Twelve o'Clock –
A QUANTITY OF GOLD DUST, AND GOLD-BEARING QUARTZ,
From the "Wynyard Diggings," Coromandel.

A few days after the sale, the following Gold Circular was published, describing the quantity, character, and other particulars of the parcels of gold which had recently arrived from the field: –

AUCKLAND AND THE COUNTRY ADJACENT.

GOLD CIRCULAR.

The first public sale of gold, the product of this province, was held at our auction mart, on Saturday, 11th inst. The parcel offered for sale comprised about six ounces of gold dust, and about ten ounces of auriferous quartz, dug by Mr. Coolahan's party, at the Wynyard diggings, Coromandel Harbour.

The dust consisted of flaky gold, of a pale lemon colour, largely intermixed with auriferous quartz, the separation having been effected only by washing In the simplest manner. The gold quartz, which was offered in separate lots, consisted of the larger pieces selected from the washings.

The sales from this parcel, at and prior to the auction, were as follows: –

Half an ounce of flake gold, entirely free from quartz or other extraneous matter...........£10 0 0 per ounce.

2 oz. gold dust, above described average £4 5 0

3 1/2 oz. gold quartz, average.... £3 10 3

Single specimens of gold quartz, the whole weighing about an ounce.. £6 5 0

The entire quantity sold realizing..... £32 1 0

The prices realized in this instance bore little relation to the intrinsic value of the lots, which were offered and purchased more as illustrative specimens, than for the actual value of the gold they contained.

No very accurate assay of this gold has yet been

FIRST AUCKLAND GOLD CIRCULAR.

obtained, but it is found to be free from any alloy, except silver, of which it contains a portion. The quartz is highly auriferous, and from its great friability, may be separated by crushing, with great facility.

Some very fine samples of gold from the Waiau diggings, distant from the foregoing about seven miles, were brought into town to-day, and have been sold at 4l. per ounce by private sale – the quantity about five ounces.

Considering the small number of diggers yet upon the ground – not more than forty persons, scattered over an area of ten or twelve square miles – the short time since the first specks of gold were discovered – only two months – and the large proportion of the time of each digger employed in exploring, we hail this commencement of the Auckland gold diggings as affording the most brilliant promise of ultimate productiveness,

CONNELL AND RlDINGS,
Gold Brokers.
Commission Merchants and General Auctioneers.
Auckland, Dec. 13, 1852.

About the same time, too, several parcels were brought up consisting of about seventeen ounces of auriferous quartz, ten ounces of gold-dust and

AUCKLAND AND THE COUNTRY ADJACENT.

nuggets. It was found, too, on examination, that a bluish substance, consisting of a mixture of rotten quartz and clay hitherto but little valued, contained a very large proportion of gold. A few small pieces, weighing half an ounce, were found to yield eighty-one grains of clean gold; another sample, weighing forty-nine grains, produced thirty-eight grains of gold. The following circular recorded the arrival in Auckland of gold in still more considerable quantities; and gold, the produce of New Zealand, now ceased to be purchased as a curiosity at a price exceeding its intrinsic value.

GOLD CIRCULAR.

Since the publication of Messrs. Connell and Ridings' Gold Circular (New Zealander, December 15th), there have been several parcels received both from the Waiou and Wynyard Diggings, Coromandel. Mr. Coolahan arrived in town on Saturday with some very fine specimens produced at Kapunga, by his party (of eight) in about one week's work. They consist of three and a half ounces of gold-dust, fifty-six ounces of auriferous quartz, and seventeen pounds of auriferous sand. These have not yet been sold; and there is, of course, no data upon which the value of specimens can be given.

Messrs. Crawford brought up from the Waiou some very beautiful specimens of auriferous quartz, one of which, weighing in the gross nearly two

ANOTHER AUCKLAND GOLD CIRCULAR.

and a half ounces, has been estimated to contain nearly one half gold. This specimen was purchased by his Excellency the Lieutenant-Governor for 71. These parties also brought up from the same spot various other specimens; one parcel of which, consisting of large rich dust and flakes, and exceedingly auriferous quartz (perhaps as rich, gaudy specimens as have yet been seen), was sold by auction by the undersigned yesterday. They were sold in small lots, to facilitate those of only small means obtaining a specimen of the first gold production of the colony, and they realized at the average rate of 4l. per ounce. Notwithstanding the above good price, the biddings, even for these small samples, were dull; indeed, it would appear that, owing to the very favourable fact of so large and satisfactory samples being in town, the present productions will soon be divested of their value in the market, simply as illustrative specimens, and that the public are now beginning to expect and look for an early opening out of genuine commercial transactions with our new-born commodity. There can be no doubt that for good clean gold, ready market at fair prices will be found.

ALBERT WM. HANSARD,
Gold Broker.
Auckland, Dec. 21, 1852.

AUCKLAND AND THE COUNTRY ADJACENT.

Towards the end of January 1853, a piece of gold was offered for sale consisting of three nuggets, weighing respectively about five and a half ounces, three and three quarters, and one ounce and a half; about fifty ounces of rich dust, and about twenty pounds weight of auriferous sand.

The total quantity of gold procured can hardly be ascertained; but it cannot be considerable. The number of miners has hitherto been small and fluctuating: the greatest number of persons at work together on the gold field has probably not exceeded sixty or seventy. When the fee for a license became payable, the number was considerably reduced; and there are at present but an insignificant number steadily pursuing the work. The labour is heavy, severe, and certain; the return is uncertain, and as yet but moderate. It may be doubted whether the value of the gold as yet procured would well repay the time and trouble expended in the search. During the harvest-time, too, labour is in demand close at home, in the neighbourhood of Auckland, and wages are high. So long as this continues to be the case, and until some great prizes have been drawn, few will risk their time and toil in the new found field of gold.

In connection with the subject of the discovery of gold in New Zealand, it is satisfactory to record that not a single case arising on the gold field has yet called for the interference of the police. Scarcely a Sunday has elapsed since the discovery, on which the district has not been visited by the Bishop or some

ORDERLY CONDUCT OF THE GOLD MINERS.

other minister of religion. "I was much struck," writes an intelligent observer, "with the orderly demeanour of the miners, and the civility and candour with which they gave all the information and explanation I required. I saw no drunkenness or quarrelling, and heard no bad language while I was there. Sunday was strictly observed as a day of rest; and a decent-looking young man invited the diggers to a prayer-meeting, which was respectably attended."

Such is a faithful narrative of the early history of the discovery of Gold in New Zealand. When the reward was offered for the discovery of a valuable gold field, it was stipulated that the value must be proved to the satisfaction of the committee before the reward would be paid. As yet the reward has not been paid. The discovery is in its infancy, and little has been done to prove its value; but data are not wanting on which to hazard an opinion of the future.

The geological character of the district has already been described. The gold itself has been found in a variety of forms and combinations. It is found in streams: in small water-worn pieces of flinty-looking quartz, which appear to have been portions of veins that have been set free by the decomposition of the rock through which they formerly passed. These veins would seem to have been from a quarter of an inch to two inches wide.

In the detritus, beyond the influence of the rivers, fragments of veins are found richly interspersed with

AUCKLAND AND THE COUNTRY ADJACENT.

gold; but the quartz has not the same flinty appearance: it resembles a white opaque felspar more than quartz; and the associated loose masses of rock bear the same resemblance to that mineral.

Some of the specimens have the appearance of recent disintegration from the matrix, and some are almost wholly free from the effects of aqueous action.

Gold has not yet been found diffused through the larger detached portions of quartz; but the specimens of gold-bearing quartz appear rather to be portions of their veins, and not parts of a rock through which gold has been equally diffused. In some, only one thin wall or crust marks its junction to the parent rock; while in others, the two crusts indicate the exact breadth of the veins.

In the specimens of the gold-bearing veins of quartz of felspartick appearance, the gold flakes stand boldly out without any foreign substance between, and are easily bent or broken off: these are only found in places not subject to the action of watercourses. In beds of rivers, and in detritus which has been formerly subjected to the action of water, these flakes are found quite detached.

Some of the gold-bearing veins found in the river beds appear to have been filled by an infiltration of silex, which has enabled them to retain the gold even after having been worn down into the shape of rounded pebbles. In these cases the flakes of gold, where a transverse section of them is exposed, present a series of gold-marked lines; and where the stone has been worn down in a direction parallel

QUALITY AND VALUE OF THE GOLD.

to the planes of the flakes; the sides of the specimens show a thin coating of gold. Rounded nuggets of pure gold, such as have been found in the neighbouring colonies, have not yet been discovered. The richest single specimen yet produced consisted of a piece of dark brown quartz, about the size of an egg, and almost as round and smooth as a pebble, containing gold to the value of about 10l. The gold hitherto found is, for the most part, of a light pale colour, and the specimens which have been sent to Sydney have been there described as differing from those usually met with in the Australian gold fields.

In calculating the probable value of the gold deposits of the district, it is to be borne in mind that an insignificant portion of the district has yet been even cursorily prospected; that in every direction within the narrow limits in which the search has yet been made, gold has been discovered; that the number of miners has been small; that the excavations have not generally exceeded four feet in depth; that not a single shaft has yet been sunk to the depth of twenty feet; and that the bed-rock itself has never yet been raised. With these facts in view, it were not a rash conjecture that the richest deposits of the Coromandel district remain to be discovered.

With its great capabilities and numerous advantages, however, New Zealand will not depend either for its present prosperity or for its future greatness on the discovery of rich gold fields; and the New

AUCKLAND AND THE COUNTRY ADJACENT.

Zealand emigrant may be told, in the language addressed by Dr. Lyon Playfair to intending emigrants to Australia, "that gold in itself is only an empirical representation of actual material wealth, which really consists in the full development of all natural resources; that the country in which they intend to seek a home is full of resources still but slightly developed. That in the more thorough development of its agriculture there is wealth to be obtained; and though disappointment may attend many of those who seek only the philosopher's stone in the drifts and quartz of the gold regions, those who read God's teachings as displayed in nature, will find a more sure way of transmuting valueless materials into gold, by going out with the steady desire to improve and develope the natural resources of their adopted home."

5 See Appendix.

6 See Appendix.

CHAPTER VII.

BUSH TRAVELLING.

CHAPTER VII.

Bush Travelling in New Zealand.

To the sportsman New Zealand offers no attraction; but, for the active and adventurous, a pedestrian excursion into the interior of the country affords an agreeable recreation; and, from its situation, on the narrow isthmus which separates the eastern and western coasts, and being the radiating point of inland water communication to the north and south, Auckland is a convenient starting point for visiting the most interesting localities of the island.

The numerous harbours which indent the east coast northwards, as far as Wangaroa, may, in moderate weather, and by keeping well in shore, be visited in an open boat. Taking the interior route to the north, and ascending to the head of the Waitemata, thence overland to the head of the Kaipara River (not more than fourteen miles); descending that river, crossing the harbour, and ascending the river Wairoa, for about a hundred miles, the traveller will

AUCKLAND AND THE COUNTRY ADJACENT.

find himself within little more than a day's walk of the Waimate. Taking a boat or canoe, crossing the Frith, and ascending the river Thames, he may proceed southwards to within a three or four days' walk of Rotomahana, and the Lakes of Rotorua.

Crossing the Manakau Harbour, and ascending the Waikato and the Waipa rivers, he may then reach Taupo by an overland journey of four days. Branching off from the head of the Waipa to the head of the Mokau (two days overland), and descending that river to the sea, he may thence reach Taranaki by a two days' walk along the coast. Leaving Taupo for the head of the Whanganui (a two days' walk), and descending the Whanganui to the settlement at its mouth, he will find himself within a three days' ride of Wellington.

No comparison can properly be made of the scenery of countries occupying the opposite extremes of cultivation, except as to natural features. It would be unreasonable, for instance, to compare the jungle forests, the fern-clad hills, and the swampy plains of a new and unsettled country, with the rich pastures, the green meadows, the forest glades, and the highly cultivated features of an English landscape. But in beauty of natural scenery, New Zealand will bear comparison with England in most of its principal features – mountain, river, coast, and harbour. There is nothing in England, for instance, to equal the snow-clad, silvery-peaked Mount Egmont, or the Alpine ranges of the Southern Island. The lower part of the Waikato River, the upper

SCENERY AND TRAVELLING.

reaches of the Thames, the scenery about the narrow pass of the Manawatu, and the wild grandeur of the Whanganui, fully equal in their natural beauty, any of the river scenery of England. The scenery of the west coast, between Waikato and Mokou, and that of the Southern Island in the neighbourhood of Milford Haven, will bear comparison with the finest views of the British coast; while Wangaroa, the Bay of Islands, Port Nicholson, Queen Charlotte's Sound, and Akaroa, are unequalled in their natural features by the harbours of Great Britain. But in lake scenery, New Zealand must yield the palm. True, indeed, there are some pretty gem-like lakes in the district of Rotorua, but there is nothing in New Zealand to equal the lake scenery of Westmoreland and Cumberland; combining so exquisitely, as it does, the beauties of nature and art. It may be too much to say that the same degree of beauty will never be found in any part of this country; but at present, in its natural uncultivated state, New Zealand contains no such views as Grassmere, seen from Butter Crags or Longbrigg Fell, Rydal from Rydal Park, and the thousand beauties of Derwentwater, Barrowdale, and Langdale.

Compared with the rapidity and the luxurious ease with which a journey is now performed in England, travelling in New Zealand is slow and laborious, and of a truly primitive simplicity; for the matter-of-fact and for the effeminate having, doubtless, few attractions, but yet, for the lover of the picturesque,

AUCKLAND AND THE COUNTRY ADJACENT.

possessing an indescribable charm. To such an one an overland expedition from Auckland to Wellington, taking the inland route by way of Waikato, Taupo, and the Whanganui, and returning by the coast through Taranaki and the Mokau River, would, with all its rude simplicity, be a delightful summer trip. Indeed, to many, the descent of the Whanganui would alone repay the time and trouble of the journey.

To glide swiftly along in a well-manned large canoe, on the surface of a current winding its way through a picturesque country, in a mild and genial climate, is certainly a most charming mode of travelling. Thus smoothly moving on, the traveller can scarcely fail to enjoy the placid beauty of the Waikato and Waipa. But the descent of the Whanganui is probably the most enjoyable of New Zealand river travelling. With a good crew the voyage may be accomplished in three days; but to ascend the river from the sea, ten days or a fortnight are required.

The general character of its scenery is wild and picturesque; the upper part of it running for nearly a hundred miles through a continuous series of deep and winding ravines, flanked on either side by steep ridges, rising to a height of several hundred feet, and covered down to the water's edge with forest trees and brushwood of every variety of form and colour; the tree-fern and the crimson blossom of the rata adding not a little to the beauty of its woodland scenery. In the dry season, the Whanganui is some-

SCENERY OF THE WHANGANUI.

what shallow, and abounds with rapids; but for a distance of several hundred yards, at the bend of every rapid, the river is as smooth as glass, reflecting its wooded banks as in a mirror. At frequent intervals, too, cascades of various heights pour their foaming waters into the stream below; and at break of day, the silence of the woods is broken by the song of a variety of birds. In the early morning, the scenery around is dark and gloomy; and until the banks of the river have been overtopped by the rising sun, masses of white fleecy mist lightly float about the tops and in the hollows of the hills. Not a patch of cultivation or a sign of habitation is to be seen; but here and there are small native settlements, perched on the summits of the heights, invisible to the traveller below; the only sign of occupation being a solitary canoe, moored here and there by the side of the stream, and the lower end of a rope-ladder descending from the cliff above. From the shallowness and the rapidity of the current, the rugged character of the surrounding country, and the precipitous face of both banks of the river, these small settlements form a series of inaccessible fastnesses; so steep, broken, and densely wooded is the country, that their occupants can communicate with each other, only by means of their canoes; and so difficult of ascent are the rivers' banks, that in many instances, they can only reach their habitations from the river by means of a ladder of flax or rope. On the lower part of the river, the character of the country undergoes a marked change: the banks are

AUCKLAND AND THE COUNTRY ADJACENT.

less steep, the country is more open, the population appears to be more numerous, and the native cultivations are more extensive.

At certain seasons, the navigation of the Whanganui is not unattended with danger, and should not be attempted without the assistance of natives acquainted with the state of the river, and practised in guiding a canoe through its rapids. The shooting of the rapids, however (upwards of fifty in number), relieves the monotony of the voyage, and now and then is quite as exciting as it is agreeable. The danger arises not so much from the strength of the current, as from the rocks and snags which not unfrequently obstruct its course. The frantic cries and wild gestures of the steersman, the violent exertions of the crew, the pace of the canoe itself, "swift as an arrow from a Tartar's bow," the boiling of the water about its gunwale, and the roaring of the torrent, can scarcely fail to cause to the inexperienced voyager, a momentary feeling of excitement. In two or three instances, when the rapids are unusually strong, the passengers are landed, while a few of the crew safely guide the light bark through the foaming torrent.

Pigeons, ducks, teal, and other water-fowl, abound; and if the traveller be furnished with a gun, he will find no difficulty in procuring an ample store of food.

Leaving the settlement of Whanganui, and proceeding southwards, the route along the coast for seventy or eighty miles is monotonous and unin-

COAST SCENERY.

teresting; but approaching Wellington, and leaving the coast, winding up a steep ascent, with a full view from the summit of the heights, of the open sea, of the Islands of Kapiti and Mana, and of the line of coast northwards as far as the eye can reach; then descending through the wooded gorges of the Horikiwi valley – its mountain streams spanned here and there by hanging bridges; then skirting along the shores of Porirua; again striking inland, over a richly timbered broken country, relieved by distant glimpses of the deep blue sea; and finally descending full upon a second Windermere – the beautiful lake-like harbour of Port Nicholson – the road for the last thirty miles of the overland journey not only presents a triumph of engineering skill, but for the varied beauty of its scenery can scarcely be surpassed.

The return route from Wellington, northwards, is, for the most part, of a different character; rich in fine sea views, and in bold and picturesque coast scenery. Travelling along the cliffs of the western coast, you will day after day have charming views of the open sea – wild, beautiful, and free, as on its first creation: for –

"Time writes no wrinkle on thy azure brow,
Such as Creation's dawn beheld, thou rollest now."

Far as the eye can reach, you will see wave after wave, in close succession, slowly and majestically moving onwards, each, as it nears the shore, rearing still higher its arched and silvery crest, then with

AUCKLAND AND THE COUNTRY ADJACENT.

deafening roar dashing itself headlong on the beach, foaming and fierce, and rolling with fury on, in the vain attempt to set at nought the perpetual decree which has placed the sand to be the bounds of the sea, and to break down that frail barrier which He who hath measured the waters in the hollow of His hand hath declared to be the ocean's boundary. And what can be more exhilarating and delightful to a vigorous pedestrian, than to speed along a hard and sandy beach, exposed all day to a brisk sea breeze – now climbing up some steep and rugged cliff – now racing round some jutting headland to save the coming tide; and encamping for the night within sound of an ocean surf thundering on the shore?

Approaching Taranaki, what sight more beautiful than Mount Egmont's snowy peak, seen just before the dawn of day, slowly tinged with rosy light – the plain around still lost in gloom-like morning rising from the bed of night? To be encamped for the night, too, in the forest at its base, the blazing watch-fire fitfully lighting up the surrounding gloom, and disclosing to momentary view the stately stems and leafy canopy of gigantic forest trees; and to awake at early dawn, listening with bated breath in charmed surprise to a chorus of sweet sounds (too sweet almost for earthly melody), would prove a poet's and a painter's Paradise!

But health, also, as well as amusement, is gained by a journey in the bush. By change of scene, the dull routine of daily life is broken, and its business

A JOURNEY IN THE BUSH.

and cares for the time forgotten. Almost constant mental excitement, gentle in degree, and agreeable in its kind; exposure to the open air, active exercise, and plain and scanty diet, all tend to health. The appetite is sharpened, the nerves are braced, the blood is purified, the cheek is bronzed, and the traveller commonly returns from his journey a stronger and a better man. What wonder that bush-travelling, then, should be a holiday amusement?

But a lengthened expedition into the interior of a new country, cannot of course be undertaken without some preparation. The pleasure which the traveller will derive from his journey, will greatly depend upon the character of his native party. Nor should a stranger, or a novice in bush travelling, ignorant of the language, and unacquainted with the manners, of the people, be advised to start alone. On the contrary he should, if possible, secure as a companion some experienced bush traveller.

Their being no wayside hostelries, the traveller, if he be not content with the skies for a canopy and the earth for his bed, must snail-like carry his house upon his back; or, which he will probably prefer, must persuade some other person to undertake the labour for him. Native huts may indeed be met with in most parts of the country; in them you may find shelter, but not sleep; and the climate is too uncertain for bivouacing in the open air. To travel in the bush with any degree of comfort, a tent is indispensable; but it can scarcely be too

AUCKLAND AND THE COUNTRY ADJACENT.

small. A pair of blankets may serve for bedding: – if folded double and sewn up at the feet and sides, they make a warmer covering. Care should be taken, too, to keep them dry; for this purpose they should be carried in well oiled cloth, or other waterproof covering, and a piece of the like material should be provided (six feet by three) to spread under the blankets at night. If the traveller would improve upon "a bed of roses," he should gather a large bundle of dead or dried fern, and spread it out to the requisite dimensions; placing the plants at an angle of 45deg., the roots and stalks downwards. Upon this heap of fern he should spread the dry oiled cloth, and upon that the blankets; and he will then have a couch which a Sybarite might envy. If the blankets be sewn up as suggested, it will be found that they form a nest of bags three in number. If the weather be warm he may insinuate himself into the upper bag: if he finds a single fold of blanket over him insufficient, he may try the middle bag; and, in case of need, a "lower deep" remains. But as far as sleep is concerned, the downiest bed, if infested by a swarm of mosquitoes, is little better than a hornet's nest; and for the plague of mosquitoes no effort of genius has yet succeeded in finding a remedy: your tough-skinned drowsy friends may, perhaps, make light of such a torment; but few who can speak from experience will class such a plague among the minor miseries of a traveller's life. Something may, however, be done to avoid or mitigate the evil. A snug, sequestered, sheltered hollow, by the side of

TRAVELLERS' EQUIPMENT.

a sluggish stream (the very spot to attract an inexperienced traveller for the night's encampment), is of all others the most likely to be frequented by these small tormentors. The summit of an exposed open plot of ground should always be chosen in preference. As soon as your tent is pitched, keep it carefully closed until you retire for the night; then search for any of the vermin which may have found their way into it, and destroy them with a candle. In the summer season a mosquito curtain is almost indispensable.

The traveller's costume should be of woollen materials, and his change of clothes should be carefully secured in oiled cloth or waterproof. His larder generally consists of tea, sugar, biscuit, and bacon. As he has frequently little or nothing to cook, no very extensive cooking apparatus is necessary. A single wooden skewer has been known to do duty for table-service, and for kitchen-range. A knife, fork, spoon, pannikin, tin plate, and tea-pot, form a sufficient yet not extravagant equipment. A supply of tobacco, the most current coin of the interior of the realm, should not be forgotten; and for river-travelling, in hot weather, a strong umbrella, to serve as an awning, will be found a great comfort.

Young travellers commonly carry a gun. The rivers and woods abound with ducks and pigeons; and if the traveller be a good shot, and his route lie along the line of a large river, it will be an advantage to do so – otherwise a gun will be found a useless burden. A supply of food may commonly be counted

AUCKLAND AND THE COUNTRY ADJACENT.

upon by the way; for it is a rare occurrence to travel for a whole day without coming to a native settlement. Now and then, too, a solitary European squatter may be met with; and, more frequently still, a Mission station. On all these occasions the traveller will meet with a cordial welcome, and hospitable treatment.

For a traveller who intends to live bush-fashion, three natives, for bearers, are a sufficient complement. On a long journey, when expedition is an object, the weight of each load should not exceed thirty pounds. Tent, bedding, clothes, and food, need not altogether exceed ninety pounds, or thirty pounds each man. This does not allow of bottled beer, wines, &c; but nothing will surprise a bush traveller more than the indifference with which he will regard these enjoyable home luxuries, after a few days' free exposure to the open air: itself an all-sufficient stimulant. If possible, he should take with him natives who will undertake the whole journey, out and home; for it is not prudent to rely on obtaining natives by the way. This indeed may generally be done; but being entirely dependent upon them – of which they are quite aware – there is a risk of losing much time and temper in making a bargain: and that, too, under circumstances when the traveller will not be in a condition to resist an exorbitant demand. Before starting, the natives should be made clearly to understand the terms of the agreement. No part of the payment should be made in advance; but the whole should be made payable on the completion of

PRECAUTIONS FOE TRAVELLING.

the journey. The coast part of a journey will be much facilitated if the traveller himself possess an accurate knowledge of the road, the state of the tides, &c. At least one of the native party should always possess this knowledge. Indeed, an intending traveller will do well to make himself acquainted with the distance of the proposed journey, the general nature of the road, the distance from place to place, and the usual and most convenient places for encamping for the night. For distances, the subjoined itinerary, "taken from the Church, Almanack, may be relied upon. In some instances the distance may appear to be greater than described: but the traveller is liable to be deceived by the rugged and difficult character of the ground.

To travel comfortably, it is necessary to encamp before sundown; for darkness does not facilitate the pitching of a tent, or the settling down snugly for the night. To accomplish a fair day's work (say twenty miles) it is necessary to make an early start in the morning, to keep moving steadily forward, and not to loiter when stopping for a meal. With a load of thirty or forty pounds' weight upon their backs, the natives scarcely clear two and a half miles an hour; which, though by no means a high-pressure speed, is as much as under the circumstances can reasonably be expected, seeing that a large portion of the line of march lies through forest tracks matted with the slippery roots of trees, patches of undrained swamp, numerous streams of various depths, and over steep and broken headlands. It is good

AUCKLAND AND THE COUNTRY ADJACENT.

economy of time, too, to breakfast before starting in the morning, to stop but for a single meal (at noon) during the day, and to avoid, as much as possible, resting at a native pah. Nothing, however, is gained by pushing on ahead of your native party; on the contrary, they are more likely to loiter behind: in all probability discussing your own folly for being in so great a hurry. You may not improbably take the wrong path, or get so far in advance as to dishearten them; and it will be fortunate for you if you have not to sleep in the open air, without tent or blankets, and to go supperless to bed. After being caught once or twice in such a predicament, especially on a wet, squally night, you will abandon the forward movement, and content yourself by modestly bringing up the rear; satisfied of the wisdom of the bush-man's motto – never to lose sight of the baggage and commissariat.

There are those who can travel from Dan to Beersheba, and declare that all is barren. For such, a bush-journey in New Zealand will have neither pleasure nor profit; but not so to an intelligent and observant man. A youthful traveller will do well to note down whatever he may think worthy of remark. The practice will be attended with many advantages: it will serve to impress the facts upon his memory, and give him much useful and ready knowledge of the country; it will enable him to afford precise and accurate information to others who may follow in his track; it will give him a facility of expressing himself in writing; and, in after years,

RESULTS OF BUSH-TRAVELLING.

his journal, if preserved, will afford him an interesting retrospect of a pleasing episode of his early life.

In the course of his wanderings, the traveller will have an opportunity of seeing the habits and manner of life of a native race, in the various phases of their transition state from barbarism to civilization. He will meet settlers of every degree, from the poor isolated squatter of the interior to the owner of well-cultivated fields and numerous flocks and herds; thus he will be able to obtain a true notion of an early settler's actual life, and to correct the fanciful pictures of the imagination by living illustrations of sober realities.

He will see, too, the Christian missionary engaged in the scene of his labours; and if he should chance to rest at a mission station on the Sunday, he will witness, to a reflecting mind, one of the most striking sights on earth. He may see a powerful aged chief, no long time ago an unmitigated heathen cannibal and savage, forming one of a Sunday-school class; sitting, it may be, next to one of his own slave boys, and meekly receiving the catechising and teaching (not of the European missionary himself, but, more wonderful still) of a native teacher – in age, rank, and station, far inferior to himself.

He will also be able to form an opinion for himself of the value of New Zealand as a field of emigration for his crowded countrymen at home; for day after day he will traverse large and fertile

AUCKLAND AND THE COUNTRY ADJACENT.

plains, here and there relieved by patches of dense forest; and cross rivers, streams, and brooks without number; and he will realize in his own person, the remarkable fact that a country but yesterday the terror of navigators, the scene of war, rapine, and cannibalism, the very by-word of barbarism, may now be traversed throughout its length and breadth in fearless security, by a solitary unarmed traveller.

But a pedestrian journey of several hundred miles cannot, even in summer, be accomplished without some toil and trouble; the traveller must therefore, for a time at least, be content to give up ease, and to live laborious days. Still he will find the journey no more than a pleasant adventure, tending to promote a manly hardihood, and to give new zest to the dull routine of daily life. In the bush, all painful thoughts and carking cares are banished from the mind, and throughout his wanderings, the traveller will be insensibly receiving the bracing and invigorating influences of an open air, out-door life:

"From morn to noon, from noon to dewy eve,"

he will be breathing the health-inspiring breath of heaven under a clear blue sky, and a genial summer sun; the while enjoying, as he roams along, all the novelty and wild freshness of a gipsy's wandering life; and, better still, he will be brought continually into close communion with Nature's grander aspects.

Pent up within the narrow and narrowing confines of civilized and artificial life, and measuring

ENNOBLING INFLUENCE OF NATURE.

ourselves by ourselves, we are apt to forget our nobler destiny, and to be content with grovelling pleasures, or with the littleness of worldly greatness; but –

"Rocked in the cradle of the deep,"

or traversing its shores, the greatest is compelled to feel his earthly littleness. When alone and amidst such scenes as these, we are awed by their grandeur, and compelled to feel that in our mere mortal nature man is but a thing of nought, whose time passeth away like a shadow; and humbling indeed would the lesson be, were we not at the same time inspired by the thought, that, compared with the soul of the simplest, the world itself is but as dust in the balance; and that when we mortals shall be but putting on our immortality, this earth and sea will themselves have been burnt up like a scroll, and –

"Like the baseless fabric of a vision, Leave not a wreck behind."

AUCKLAND AND THE COUNTRY ADJACENT.

NEW ZEALAND ITINERARY.

I. – AUCKLAND TO WELLINGTON. COAST ROAD.

Miles.

Description of Journey,

AUCKLAND to

Onehunga ..................

6

Open cart road.

Cross Manukau to Orua........

10

Harbour.

Waikato river (boat).........

30

Good beach.

Whangaroa river (boat) ......

35

Open and hilly.

Aotea harbour (boat)..........

18

Woody, open.

Kawhia (boat)................

5

Open.

Tapirimoko..................

25

Wood, beach, cliff.

Mokau......................

25

Good beach at low water.

Waitera (boat) ..............

35

Cliffs, beach at low water.

New Plymouth ......199 – – -

10

Open cart road.

Mokotuna....................

20

Beach, stones, grass.

Otumatua....................

30

Open, grass, sand.

Waimate ....................

18

Beach at low water, stones.

Patea river (boat) ............

26

Beach, stones, sandhills.

Waitotara....................

16

Tide, beach, sandhills.

Whanganui river M. S. (boat)..

18

Whangaihu river (boat)........

9

Sand, beach.

Turakina river (ford)..........

3

Do. do.

Rangatiki river (ford) ........

17

Do. do.

Manawatu river (ford) ........

13

Do. do.

Otaki river M. S. (ford)........

20

Do. do.

Waikanae M. S...............

10

Do. do.

Porirua......................

24

Sand, wood.

Wellington........238....

14

Wood.

437

NEW ZEALAND ITINERARY.

II. – AUCKLAND TO WELLINGTON, INLAND ROUTE, BY TAUPO.

Miles.

Description of Journey.

Auckland to

Kaweranga, M.S.............

40

By sea.

Land at Te Rua Kowhawhe....

50

River Thames. (Waiho. )

Matamata....................

21

Plain, swamp.

Te Toa, Patetere..............

26

Plain, rivers.

Rotorua Lake...........

27

20 m. wood, 7 m. open.

Cross Lake to Te Ngae, M.S...

6

Boat.

Tarawera Lake ..............

10

Hill, open, lake.

Rotomahana L. and hot springs

10

8 m. lake, 2 m. plain.

N. end of Taupo Lake ........

34

Hills, plain, deep streams.

S. end of Taupo Lake. Te Rapa

25

Lake, by land 35 m.

Makokomiko on Whanganui river

42

Open, woody, deep ford.

Mouth of Whanganui, M. S.....

150

River, rapids.

Wellington................

110

See No. I.

551

III. – AUCKLAND TO WELLINGTON, BY EAST COAST.

Miles.

Description of Journey.

Auckland to

Kaweranga ..................

40

By sea.

Opita. Sacred Creek ........

30

River Thames. (Waiho. )

Katikati ....................

25

Open.

Te Papa. Tauranga, M. S.....

20

Boat, along Tauranga Bay.

Maketu ....................

15

1 m. boat, 1 plain, 13 beach.

Otamarora ..................

19

Deep rivers, beach.

Wakatane....................

14

Hills, beach, deep rivers.

Opotiki, M. S................

20

Beach.

Turanga. Poverty Bay, M. S...

90

Hills, beach, no villages.

Nuhaka......................

33

Hills, wood.

Wairoa river, M. S...........

20

Beach.

Waikare river................

31

Beach, cliffs.

Arapaoanui ..................

15

Steep hills.

Ahuriri, M. S.................

24

Beach, inland water.

Patangata....................

21

Plain, deep river.

Rotoatara Lake ..............

10

Open downs.

Rua Taniwha Plain. ...........

22

Open, grass plain.

Manawatu river ..............

22

Long wood, plains.

Te Rewarewa................

70

Course of Manawatu river.

Mouth of Manawatu ..........

9

Sandhills.

Wellington................

08

See No. I.

623

AUCKLAND AND THE COUNTRY ADJACENT.

IV. – AUCKLAND TO WELLINGTON, BY WAIKATO AND WAIPA.

Miles.

Description of Journey.

Auckland to

Mangatiwiri creek on Waikato..

45

Open, wood.

Taupiri, M. S.................

32

Course of Waikato, rapid.

Puehunui ..................

40

Course of Waipa, still.

Otawhao. M. S...............

10

Open, fern.

Rangitoto .......

25

Do. do.

Tutakamoana................

28

Open, hill, plain.

Waihoura on Taupo Lake..

8

Open hills.

Pukawa......................

12

Lake.

Matahanea on Whanganui river

26

15 m. open, 11 m. wood.

Mouth of Whanganui river

150

Course of Whanganui, rap.

Wellington................

110

See No. I.

486

V. – AUCKLAND TO KAITAIA, BY EAST COAST.

Miles.

Description of Journey.

AUCKLAND TO

Mahurangi ..................

Whangarei.................

Ngunguru ..................

14

Open hills, beaches.

Whangaruru harbour (Owae)..

35

Waikare river, Bay of Islands..

22

16 m. water, 6 m. land.

Paihia, M. S.................

10

Course of Waikare river.

Te Kerikeri, M. S...........

16

Cross the Bay of Islands.

Whangaroa, M. S.............

25

Open, hills.

Manganui....................

16

4 m. water, 12 m. land.

Taipa river, Oruru............

5

Open.

KAITAIA

17

Open.

NEW ZEALAND ITINERARY.

VI. – AUCKLAND TO KAITAIA, BY KAIPARA AND WHANGAROA.

Miles.

Description of Journey.

AUCKLAND to

Head of Waitemata River....

14

Tideway.

Head of Kaipara River

15

Open, hills.

Mouth of Kaipara river........

40

Tideway of Kaipara river.

Te Otahi, Wesl. M. S.........

80

Tideway of Wairoa river.

Mangungu, Wesl M.S.

70

River, wood.

Mangamuku ................

15

Tideway of Mangamuku riv.

Kaitaia....................

25

14 m. wooded ridge, 11 plain.

259

CHAPTER VIII.

AUCKLAND AND THE COUNTRY ADJACENT.

CHAPTER VIII.

"Night and Morning." – The "Past and Present" of New Zealand.

Any account of "Auckland and the Country adjacent," however slight, would be imperfect indeed which should make no mention of its early history; or of the condition, "Past and Present," of its native people.

The position and natural advantages of New Zealand were such as, under any circumstances, to secure for its colonization a large amount of public attention. But it was not because it was a land of wheat and barley, and vines and fig-trees – a promising field of emigration – that the undertaking was viewed by thoughtful men with deep and serious interest; but because it was about to be made the field of an experiment affecting the interests of humanity. A pledge was given by the Ministers of the Crown that, as to the islands of New Zealand, its native inhabitants – to use the measured language of a ministerial despatch – should, if possible, "be saved from that process of

COLONIZATION OF NEW ZEALAND.

war and spoliation under which uncivilized tribes have almost invariably disappeared as often as they have been brought into the immediate vicinity of emigrants from the nations of Christendom."

Awaking to a sense of its past proceedings, as the invader of defenceless heathen lands, the British nation was about to try the experiment whether a fragment of the great human family – long isolated from the world, destitute of all spiritual light, and sunk in heathen darkness – could be raised from its state of social degradation, and permanently maintained and preserved as a civilized people! Or, whether those desolate portions of our fellow-creatures, must be for ever left in a state of hopeless barbarism? Whether, in fact, it were possible to bring two distinct portions of the human race, in the opposite conditions of civilization and barbarism, into immediate contact, without the destruction of the uncivilized race! And whether, in rendering the colonization of a barbarous country possible, by his religious teaching, the Christian missionary is not also at the same time the pioneer of the destruction of its heathen people! Such were the questions involved in the colonization of New Zealand.

While the novelist was delighting bis readers with imaginary pictures of moving incident, striking change, and high-flown sentiment, a few of our countrymen were taking part in a reality, and witnessing a "Past and Present," in the remote islands of New Zealand, too startling even for the pages of romance. Although but twelve years have elapsed since the undertaking was commenced, yet the

AUCKLAND AND THE COUNTRY ADJACENT.

modern traveller, now arriving in the country since light has dawned upon the land, seeing the neighbourhood of its Capital cultivated like an English landscape – the colonist living in the midst of peace and plenty, the New Zealanders supplying the markets with the produce of their industry, the two races dwelling together in uninterrupted harmony, English laws regularly administered, order prevailing, and Christian teaching eagerly received – can with difficulty now imagine that so bright a "morning" was preceded, and so recently, by so long and dark a "night;" and can hardly realize the difficulties, the anxieties, and the grave responsibilities of its early founders.

The importance of New Zealand, as a dependency of the British Crown, is too commonly estimated with reference only to the number of its English settlers, without taking into account its native inhabitants. Although their exact number has never been correctly ascertained, the natives of New Zealand are generally believed to amount to not less than a hundred thousand; the majority of whom reside in the northern portion of the Northern Island. Instead of being occupied as formerly in a state of constant and destructive warfare, they are peaceable and industrious, and occupied in various departments of productive industry; acquiring property to a considerable amount, the owners of the greater portion of the soil, and the principal producers of the wheat grown within the province; and large and increasing consumers of British manufactures.

In the season of harvest the English settlers are

INDUSTRIAL PURSUITS OF THE NATIVES.

largely dependent upon their services for mowing, hay-making, reaping, thrashing, &c. And the following extract from the Report of the "Auckland Agricultural Society" testifies to their capabilities generally as labourers and farm-servants: –

"Aware of the advantages," says the Report, "which the district possesses in an abundance of native labour, and deeming that the Society might do something to advance the improvement of Maori labour by taking notice of the deserving, and encouraging the most meritorious brought under its observation, the Committee added to the list of prizes a premium of two sovereigns to the best and most trustworthy native servant; in consequence of which the three following certificates were forwarded to the secretaries: –

"'1. This is to certify that Inoka (Enoch), an aboriginal native, has been in my employment for four years and nine months continuously, during which period he has always been a most steady, hard working, and faithful servant. He is an excellent groom; can milk well, churn, and clean butter; he is a very good sower of seed and grain, a very good spadesman, can drive both cart and plough well; he is a very fair carpenter, has shingled houses, made gates and troughs for pigs for me. He is also a very good fencer, and an excellent helper in the garden. He has been employed by me in all the above occupations, as well as in looking after and pulling in a boat.
"'Signed) P.B.'
"'Auckland, April 13, 1850.'

AUCKLAND AND THE COUNTRY ADJACENT.

"'2. This is to certify that the bearer, Jacob, otherwise Hakopa, has for two years been working as a farm-servant at St. John's College, during which period he has been found to be an honest, obedient, and trustworthy servant, possessing that stability of character whereby natives are most likely to acquire a knowledge of European labour, for which he has always manifested the greatest anxiety. He is a native from an inland district (Rotorua), from whence he came in search of employment. At the time of his engagement he was totally unacquainted with European habits or labour; but from the progress he has made in the same during the above period, he is now frequently entrusted with a team of six bullocks for the day, ploughing with a native boy for a driver, harrowing and carting, giving general satisfaction; he is also a very good hand with the flail, and at other manual labour.
"'Signed) R.P.,
"'Superintendent.'
"'St John's College, March 12, 1850.'

"'3. The bearer, Tiaha, has been employed by me for eighteen months; he can plough, drive horses or bullocks, milk, churn, reap, mow grass, ditch and fence, and is in every respect a complete farm-servant; in proof of which I have engaged him for another year, at twenty pounds per annum and food.
"'(Signed) W.F.P.'
"'Waiparera, April 10, 1850.'

NATIVES EMPLOYED IN SKILLED LABOUR.

Experience has also proved them to be capable of acquiring skill in various descriptions of labour. Some time ago, one hundred and forty-seven different natives, belonging to twenty-one different tribes, were in the course of twelve months employed by the Royal Engineer Department, on the public works. At the end of the year, the clerk of works reported that he had employed them in rafting timber, making mortar, removing stone, and other labourer's work. That in the erection of the barrack wall, hospital, and barrack stores, he had instructed several to dress stone and build; that he had then ten good stone-dressers, who could dress splayed quoins in hard stone, and throut and sink a window-sill as well as most stone-dressers in the colony; that he had also amongst them thirteen good masons or builders; that at the quarry they were employed in boring and blasting, and that they used the hammer and wedge; that of the one hundred and four then employed by the Engineer Department, all were able to read the New Testament (in their own language), and that all but two could write: a statement which could probably not he made of an equal number of labourers so employed in the most civilized country in the world.

The progress of the native settlement at Rangiawhia, in the Waipa district, affords a proof of their capabilities for cultivating the soil on an extensive scale. The population of the settlement does not comprise more than two hundred adult males; yet this small community have seven hun-

AUCKLAND AND THE COUNTRY ADJACENT.

dred acres of land under wheat: they have twenty ploughs and harrows, twenty carts and drays with harness, sixty-five horses, twenty-five head of cattle, and two water-power flour mills, amounting altogether in value, at a fair calculation, to upwards of six thousand pounds.

From a distance of nearly a hundred miles, the natives supply the markets of Auckland with, the produce of their industry; brought partly by land carriage, partly by small coasting craft, and partly by canoes. In the course of the year 1852, one thousand seven hundred and ninety-two canoes entered the harbour of Auckland, bringing to market by this means alone two hundred tons of potatoes, fourteen hundred baskets of onions, seventeen hundred baskets of maize, twelve hundred baskets of peaches, twelve hundred tons of firewood, forty-five tons of fish, and thirteen hundred pigs; besides flax, poultry, vegetables, &c. They are the owners also of numerous small coasting craft – many of them purchased at a cost of upwards of two hundred-pounds each; as also of numerous flour-mills, worked by water power.

Of the coasting craft which trade between Auckland and the Bay of Islands, the most regular, clean, and orderly, and that which is commonly preferred by the public for the conveyance of passengers, is a vessel wholly owned and navigated by the natives of the country.

Between the months of April, 1851, and December, 1852, nearly seventeen hundred pounds have

PROSPERITY OF THE NATIVES.

been advanced by the Colonial Government to the natives of the north, by way of loan, chiefly to enable them to purchase small vessels to bring their produce to the market; of this sum nearly three-fourths had been repaid at the end of the past year. And that they are deemed trustworthy by the English settlers is evidenced by the fact, that they have accounts in the books of the tradesmen of Auckland alone to the amount of several thousand pounds.

Nearly four hundred natives and half-castes are now receiving religious education, industrial training, and instruction in the English language, and are boarded, lodged, and clothed in the schools of the district, which receive aid from the public funds, under the provisions of the ordinance for promoting the education of youth. And they are reported by the conductors of these institutions to exhibit an aptitude for the acquirement of the arts and habits of civilized life, and considerable capability for moral and social advancement. Such, then, is the present condition of a people, whose very name, not twenty years ago, was a by-word throughout the civilized world.

But to appreciate fully the contrast between the "Night and Morning" of New Zealand, it is not sufficient to call to mind some general vague impression that once upon a time these islands, on account of the savage character of their people, were so dreaded by the mariner that nothing but the last necessity would induce him to land upon their

AUCKLAND AND THE COUNTRY ADJACENT.

shores. A yet nearer and a clearer view of their condition must be presented to the mind. Go back but sixteen years – not to witness a picture drawn from imagination, but to view a stern reality. The conflict ended, traverse a native field of battle. Horror-struck you may be; thankful indeed you ought to be, that you have lived yourself in a blaze of Christian light: but repress all feeling of self-exultation – remember the revolting barbarities once committed in the streets of the boasted capital of refinement and civilization – and learn, with all humility, to what depths we ourselves might fall, if, like the inhabitants of New Zealand, we should be left for ages without all knowledge of a God. Take, then, for instance, the scene at R * * *. Time, 1836. The bodies of fallen men, weltering in their blood, are here and there strewn about the ground. Here "a number of bodies are laid out, previously to their being cut up for the oven." You "turn away in disgust, and sick at heart;" but whichever way you look, "some sight of horror salutes you." By-and-by, a body, apparently that moment killed, is dragged into the camp. "The head is cut off almost before you can look round; the breast is opened, and the heart, streaming with warmth, pulled out and carried off." At every turn you are exposed to the most revolting scenes: "Halves of bodies, quarters, legs, and heads, are carried away, and some of them are purposely thrust into your face." You now visit the spot where the opposite party is encamped, and where "for two

"NIGHT AND MORNING" OF NEW ZEALAND.

days after the battle they remained to gorge on sixty human bodies." "Bones of all kinds, the remains of their cannibal feast, are spread about in all directions." "Two long lines of native ovens mark the spot where the bodies were cooked; and a smaller oven, with a wreath around its edge and two pointed sticks by the side, on the one of which was a potato and on the other a lock of hair, points out the place where they set apart a portion of their horrid meal for the Evil Spirit." Retired somewhat apart is a little child, "nursing in his lap, as if a plaything, one of the slain chief's hands."

Such were the frightful scenes to be witnessed in these islands but sixteen years ago. Standing in the midst of them, the appalled spectator might hardly have been persuaded, though one rose from the dead to assure him of the fact, that he himself should live to witness, within less than sixteen years, native children of New Zealand, neatly clad in English dresses, assembled for Christian worship on the sabbath day, chanting the "Magnificat" and the "Nunc Dimittis," and singing, in English, the "Evening Hymn" in a manner to put to shame many an English congregation. With the battle-field of R – – –

fresh painted on its pages, what author of romance would venture to represent the actors in these scenes, after so brief an interval, assembled together at a meeting to promote the spread of Christianity among the heathen people of the neighbouring islands – gratefully acknowledging the benefits they had received from their own Christian teachers – quoting

AUCKLAND AND THE COUNTRY ADJACENT.

from Scripture the command to "Go into all the world, and preach the Gospel to every creature" – animating each other to speed the Christian work, and contributing, according to their means, in aid of the newly-founded "Melanesian Mission." If made the subject of romance, a contrast so striking would be deemed to outrage probability. But fact is stranger than fiction; and there are those now living who can bear witness to its truth. JOWETT KUMUMOMO, addressing the native missionary meeting at Taupiri, may be taken as a striking illustration of the "Past and Present" of New Zealand, and as a living personification of its "Night and Morning:" – "My Friends, – Although I am not an old man, I have tasted human flesh; some years ago it was sweet: the Gospel came, and I would not receive it. I then went to Taranaki, and again tasted human flesh – but it was no longer sweet. Why was it not as sweet as before? – it was now bitter to my taste. The reason is, the Gospel told me it was wrong: and if any one in this assembly should again taste human flesh it would no longer be sweet to him. Although he may not believe in Christ, yet he would find that his old habits and customs were no longer sweet, because he has heard the truth and the Scriptures, and the Holy Spirit would speak to his heart. The light had come, and he would be unhappy. The Bishop and myself have been to the islands near to us: many of the islanders are cannibals; five Europeans had been killed a few months ago, and perhaps eaten. What are we to do? We must send the

"PAST AND PRESENT" OF NEW ZEALAND.

Gospel of Christ. It has already begun to work thirteen children of the chiefs of those islands have been given to the Bishop to educate. You must do the same; send your children to the schools at Kaitoteche, Maraitai, and Auckland. They send their children a great distance while you are but a short distance from the schools, and yet some of you do not send your children. At one of the islands we had a near escape. We landed to get fresh water; when inland, the people came around us, stopped our path, but let us pass when we came in the midst of them; they then went aside, and some of them threw stones at us. They had their hands on their bows, ready to send their arrows: we were obliged to leave our water-casks. When we reached the sea, the Bishop and all of us had to swim in our clothes to the boat, which was some distance from the shore: we reached the boat and ship in safety. And why? Because God protected us; He will protect all His servants who make known his Gospel. Why did He not allow an arrow to be shot at us? Why did we not sink whilst we were swimming to the boat? I had coat and shoes on – they were heavy – but God strengthened us all. The Bishop says he will not give up the islands – he will persevere to carry the Gospel – and if he says I shall go with him and remain there, I am willing; but what am I doing? I am boasting, which is not good. That is all my speech. "

Such is a faithful version (translated) of the speech of a native of New Zealand in the year 1852.

AUCKLAND AND THE COUNTRY ADJACENT.

To have foretold, some sixteen years ago, that New Zealand – the terror of navigators, the scene of war, rapine, and cannibalism, the very by-word of barbarism – might in this present year of 1852 be traversed throughout its length and breadth in fearless security by a solitary, unarmed traveller, would in itself have been a bold assertion. But it would have taxed the faith of the most sanguine to believe that nothing in that game year should surprise the traveller more than to find, wherever two or three are gathered together, the close or dawn of a single day unmarked by the sound of prayer or praise – yet such is the record of the modern traveller.

So much for the "Past and Present." Looking to the future, the practical solution of the problem of the continued and permanent advancement of the native race will depend largely on the political institutions under which the country may be governed. If these islands had been unoccupied by an aboriginal race, and colonized only by some thirty thousand English settlers, all occupying the same district, there would have been no great difficulty in devising a constitution which, while it gave the colonists the amplest powers of self-government, might at the same time have secured imperial interests. But when it is considered that New Zealand is peopled also by a hundred thousand native inhabitants – intelligent, independent, and jealous of their rights – equal in bravery and superior in numbers, and in the use of arms, to the English settlers – that they are the owners also of the greater part

LEGISLATION FOR, NEW ZEALAND.

of the soil of the country – fellow-subjects with ourselves – and, as such, entitled to the rights, powers and privileges of British subjects – it must be conceded that the circumstances are such as to render the framing of representative institutions for New Zealand, a work of no inconsiderable difficulty.

To give to the European colonists the exclusive and uncontrolled power of legislating for the colony, would not be to confer upon the people of New Zealand the power of self-government; but would, in fact, be to give to the European minority the power, not only of governing themselves, but the whole of her Majesty's subjects in the country. By extending to the whole of the inhabitants of the country, without distinction of race, equal political privileges, would be but to confer upon the natives powers which they not only do not desire to possess, but which, for want of preparatory training, they are for the most part at present unprepared to exercise. Neither would it be desirable to draw so broad a line of demarcation between the two races, as would, in effect, be done if the jurisdiction of the colonial legislature were confined to the European colonists alone.

As a body, the natives of New Zealand are, at present, unfit to exercise the elective franchise with advantage either to themselves or to the country at large. They would be impatient, at the same time, of the uncontrolled dominion of their European fellow-subjects; they would be content, however, to be governed directly by the Crown. Under these

AUCKLAND AND THE COUNTRY ADJACENT.

circumstances, therefore, we should probably best discharge the responsibility we have undertaken in their favour, by carefully and gradually admitting them to a participation in the exercise of political power; retaining to the Crown, in the mean time, such a degree of influence in the colonial legislature as would enable the executive to initiate and advocate such measures as may be required for promoting their advancement in the social scale; and securing, by a fundamental law, some fair proportion of the general revenue to be administered by the Government for the benefit and advantage of the native race. Be the constitution of the colony, however, what it may, there is happily good ground to believe that the obligation incurred towards the natives of New Zealand by the government of Great Britain, will, so far as may depend upon the colonial legislature, be justly and honourably fulfilled.

In every point of view, then, the present state of the New Zealand race presents a subject of curious interest.

Contemporary events, however, are seldom rightly discerned, or fully appreciated, even by their principal actors; for, to be seen distinctly, objects may be placed too near as well as at too great a distance from the eye. To those who are occupied with the near realities and the pressing exigencies of their daily life, there may appear to be nothing remarkable in the work of civilization which is going on them: nay, the very rapidity of its progress

COLONIZATION OF NEW ZEALAND.

– the ease and quiet with which it is accomplished – tends, in the view of the immediate spectator, to rob it of its interest. But, in some far distant age, when the "Present" of New Zealand shall have become time-honoured, and shall be dimmed in the antiquity of the "Past," it will be regarded as an historical fact of curious interest, that a little band of Englishmen, strong only in their weakness, were sent forth by the parent state to found a colony in these islands, and to govern and control, not only their own countrymen, but a barbarous, well-armed, war-like native people – a hundred thousand strong – jealous of their liberties, and impatient of control. How fared these early founders – what were their hopes and fears – what their difficulties – and how were they surmounted? How gained they even a footing in the land, and how maintained they their ground? How was the armed barbarian made amenable to their laws? By what means were a powerful, independent people induced to yield even a semblance of obedience to an almost powerless foreign sway? These, and questions such as these, will then be matter of curious history. And the "Past and Present" of New Zealand – though, to its living actors, it may be of little interest – will, if faithfully recorded, be read by a remote prosperity as a "strange eventful history."

Of the future power and greatness of New Zealand, and of the material prosperity of its people, no question can be made; but the future condition of its aboriginal native race – moral, social, and material

AUCKLAND AND THE COUNTRY ADJACENT.

– can be as yet but doubtfully foreseen. With nations, however, as with individuals, "the child is father of the man," and the "Future" of New Zealand will receive the impress of its character from its present early founders. "The greatest obstruction to Christianity in heathen countries," it has been observed, "is the palpable and undeniable depravity of Christian nations. The heathen abhor our religion because we are such unhappy specimens of it: they are unable to read our books, but they can read our lives." Under ordinary circumstances, individual example exercises an influence, imperceptible though it may be, on those around us. Though the early settlers of New Zealand may give little thought to the importance of their position as the founders of a future empire, as occupying the advanced post of civilization, and charged with the preservation and advancement of a native race; though they may doubt their fitness to perform that noble mission, and though they may shrink from its grave responsibilities, they can neither destroy its reality, nor evade its duties. For there is not one amongst them, be his condition as humble as it may, who, so long as he is one of the founders of a new country, does not exercise a more than ordinary influence on the character and destiny of his fellow-men. In an old settled country, indeed, where opinions are fixed and prejudices are deep-rooted, no individual, whatever may be his rank, his abilities, or his power, can exercise any perceptible influence on the character and con-

FUTURE OF NEW ZEALAND.

dition of his fellow-men. But with the founders of a new country it is otherwise: we have only to call before our minds the early history and the present condition of our old American Colonies, to become alive to the extent of our own individual influence. For to this very day – after the lapse of now two hundred years – the oldest states of the American Union present the same striking characteristics which marked their early history.

But though the responsibilities of the early founders of New Zealand may be weighty, they are not without compensation in the favourable circumstances of their outward condition. For none will deny that their labours have fallen to them in pleasant places; and that in the country of their adoption they have received a goodly heritage – "a good land, a land of brooks of water, of fountains and depths that spring out of valleys and hills; a land of wheat, and barley, and vines, and fig trees, and pomegranates; a land of oil-olive, and honey; a land wherein they may eat bread without scarceness, they shall not lack anything in it; a land whose stones are iron, and out of whose hills they may dig brass;" – "a land also full of silver and gold, neither is there any end of their treasures." It may indeed be, that as pioneers in the work of colonization, they may have had to suffer hardships, and to struggle with difficulties; but nothing can deprive them of the cheering and ennobling consciousness, that in future ages, when English settlers with English habits and with English energy shall have

AUCKLAND AND THE COUNTRY ADJACENT.

raised New Zealand to the rank of a powerful state, the people of its then populous capital will have received the impress of their character from themselves, its early founders.

In other regions of the world, England has, by conquest, extended largely the bounds of her dominions – the result of many a brilliant victory. But what is won by the sword, and that which is held by the sword, by the sword may also perish. Here the issue still is pending, and the victory yet unwon; but if it shall be given to the founders of this colony to be also the instruments of preserving a barbarous native race, and of raising them in the scale of civilization to a level with ourselves; then, crowned with these unwonted blessings, the first-fruits of a coming age, the colonization of these islands will be one of the noblest conquests in the annals of our country's history; and New Zealand, already the cradle of civilization and the day-spring of light to the heathen people of the Southern Seas, will be the brightest ornament in the borders of her empire.

APPENDIX.

APPENDIX.

PROCLAMATION.

By his Excellency Lieutenant-Colonel Robert Wynyard, Companion of the Most Honourable Order of the Bath, Lieutenant-Governor of the Province of New Ulster, &c. &c. &c.

Whereas information has been received by the Government that Gold in its natural place of deposit has been discovered in the district of Auckland, in the Province of New Ulster, on land in the possession of her Majesty's Native Subjects. And whereas it is expedient that the said Gold Field should be made available to all classes of her Majesty's subjects, and to that end, as well as to the peaceable and productive working of the same, that the management of the said Gold Field – saving the interests therein of the owners of the soil – should be undertaken by her Majesty's Colonial Government: –

Now, I, the Lieutenant-Governor of the Province of New Ulster, do hereby proclaim and declare that measures are now being taken with a view to that object, and that, as soon as the necessary arrangements shall be com-

APPENDIX.

pleted, Licenses to work the said Gold Field will he granted by the Government on payment of a reasonable Fee.

And whereas her Majesty has been graciously pleased to place at the disposal of the Colonial Legislature the profits of any Gold Field which may be discovered in New Zealand. Now, for the protection of the interests of the Public therein, I hereby further proclaim and declare that all Gold-metal or Ore containing Gold, procured without such License as aforesaid, will be liable to be seized, in whose possession soever it may be found; and that all persons who shall take from any land within the Province any such Gold-metal, or Ore containing Gold, without being duly licensed in that behalf, will be prosecuted according to law. And I hereby call upon the Inhabitants of the Province to be aiding and assisting herein.

Given under my hand, and issued under the Public Seal of the Province of New Ulster, this Tenth day of November, in the Year of our Lord, One Thousand Eight Hundred and Fifty-Two.
R. H. WYNYARD, Lieut.-Governor.
By his Excellency's command,
ANDREW SINCLAIR, Colonial-Secretary.

GOD SAVE THE QUEEN!

Agreement between the Government and Native Tribes for the management of Gold Fields on the Thames for the term of three years.

1. That one system be adopted for the regulation of all

APPENDIX.

persons searching and digging for Gold between Cape Colville and Kauairanga.

2. The Government undertake to pay in respect of the whole Land within the above limits, per annum, for three years, for any number

Under500.............. 600l.

500 to 1,000 .......... 900l.

1,000 to 1,500.......... 1,200l.

1,500 to 2,000.......... 1,500l.

and so on in the same proportion.

3. The native owners to register themselves and point out their boundaries to the Government, and the money paid to each body of owners so registered, to bear the same proportion to the whole sum that their land does to the whole block.

4. All owners to be free to dig Gold on their own land, without payment to Government, but not to permit other persons, whether Natives or English, to dig without a License.

5. The Government guarantees protection to all classes of persons; in consideration of which, a License Fee will be required from all diggers not being owners of the land.

6. The Native owners undertake to assist the Government as much as possible by reporting all persons who are found digging without a License.

7. The Government to be at liberty to issue Licenses immediately, but the payments to be reckoned from the 1st December 1852; the first payment to be made on the 31st March 1853, and quarterly afterwards.

8. The property of the land to remain with the Native

APPENDIX.

owners; and their villages and cultivations to be protected as much as possible.

9. If any of the Tribes of the Peninsula decline this proposal, their land shall not be intruded upon till they consent.

(Signed) R.H. Wynyard,
Lieut.-Governor.

[Here follow Signatures of the Maori Chiefs.]

Witnesses of the Signatures.
G.A. NEW ZEALAND
WILLIAM MARTIN
THOS. LANFEAR

Witness to Marks and Signatures.
JOHN G. JOHNSON, Interpreter.

Coromandel Harbour,
30th November 1852.

Note. – The foregoing arrangements include the consent of three Tribes, and comprise about 16 square miles, or 10,000 acres.

Further Guarantee in respect to the Natives who have agreed to Lease their Lands to Government.

In addition to the terms of the agreement or lease drawn up and signed on the 19th November 1852, I guarantee that a Fund shall be created by a Tax of two shillings on every License, for the purpose of paying (independent of the rent thus agreed upon), and for rewarding the native owners for their faith and confidence in the Government, as well as recompensing them for any damage, annoyance, or inconvenience they may experience from Europeans while digging on their lands.
(Signed) R. H. WYNYARD,
Lieut.-Governor.

APPENDIX.

COROMANDEL GOLD FIELD.
PROVISIONAL REGULATIONS.

WHEREAS arrangements have been made by the Colonial Government with the Native Owners of certain portions of Land in the neighbourhood of Coromandel, in the district of Auckland, with a view to the management of the Gold Field which has recently been discovered therein, his Excellency the Lieutenant-Governor has been pleased, with the advice of the Executive Council, to direct the publication of the following Provisional Regulations, under which Licenses may be obtained to dig, search for, and remove alluvial Gold, on and from the portions of Land above referred to, as also on and from the demesne Land of the Crown in the said district: And whereas, with a view to render the remaining portions of the said Gold Field speedily available to the public generally, and on equal terms, it is expedient that no person shall, without due authority, dig, search for, or remove Gold on or from such portions of the said Gold Field until they shall have been placed under the management of the Colonial Government, and the public are hereby warned that no such License as aforesaid will at any time hereafter be granted to any person who shall, without due authority, dig, search for, or remove Gold from any portion of the said Gold Field which shall not have been made subject to the Government Regulations: –

Regulations for the working of matrix Gold combined with Quartz or any other rock, remaining in its original place of deposit, will be published as soon as conveniently may be, and as occasion may require.

APPENDIX.

Regulations for the working of Gold on Land alienated by the Crown in fee simple, will shortly be made public.

All alluvial or matrix Gold procured without due authority, within the district aforesaid, will be liable to be seized, in whose possession soever it may be found.

From and after the first day of December next, no person will he permitted to dig, search for, or remove Gold on or from any Land, public or private, within the said district, without taking out a License in the form hereunto annexed.

Every such License shall continue in force for one calendar month, and shall commence and take effect on the 1st day of the month in which it shall be dated.

For every such License there shall be paid, in advance, the sum of one pound ten shillings. But if a License be taken out after the 15th of the month, one half only of the said fee will be charged; provided that permits already issued shall remain in force till the first day of January, 1853, without any charge.

The Licenses will be issued from the office of the Colonial Secretary, at Auckland, but they may be renewed on the Gold Field by a Commissioner.

No person will be eligible to obtain a License, or the transfer or renewal of a License, unless he shall produce a certificate of discharge from his last service, or show, to the satisfaction of the Officer by whom such Licenses may be granted, transferred, or renewed, that he is not a person improperly absent from hired service.

Any such License as aforesaid may be cancelled, in case the holder thereof shall be convicted, by competent authority, of the illicit sale of spirituous liquors, wine, ale, or beer, or of any disorderly or riotous conduct, endangering the public peace.

APPENDIX.

With a view to the security of person and property, and to promote peaceable and orderly conduct on the Gold Field, the name and description of every body who shall be convicted of the illicit sale of Spirituous or other Liquors, or of disorderly or riotous conduct on the field, will be forwarded to the officer by whom Licenses may be issued, transferred, or renewed, and no License will be granted or transferred to, or renewed in favour of, any person so convicted as aforesaid.

Persons found working alluvial Gold on any Land within the district aforesaid, without having previously paid the License Fee to the proper officer, shall pay £5 instead of the usual Fee for the first License he may take out, and, in default thereof, will be proceeded against according to law.

Every person desirous of establishing a claim to a particular portion of unoccupied ground, by working in the ordinary method, for alluvial Gold, may have his claim marked out on the following scale, viz., not less than

(1) 15 feet frontage to either side of a River.

(2) 20 feet of the bed of a tributary to a river or main creek, extending across its whole breadth.

(3) 60 feet of the bed of a Ravine or Watercourse.

(4) 20 feet square of table-land, or river flats.

Such claim will be secured to the party for such time only as he may continue to hold a License for and work the same.

If any dispute shall arise in respect of any such claim, reference should be forthwith made by the claimant to the Commissioner, who is hereby authorized to hear and summarily determine the case upon the spot.

The owners of all claims who may employ men on hire to assist them in working alluvial Gold, and who

APPENDIX.

may take out Licenses for them, will he entitled, on application to the Commissioner, to have the Licenses of such men transferred to other labourers. In every such case the License must be produced to the Commissioner, who will endorse thereon, without any additional fee, the name of the Transferee.

Persons desirous of constructing Tram Roads, or forming Reservoirs or Dams on the gold field, for the purpose of washing gold, must make application to the Commissioner for permission so to do: and any Tram Road, Reservoir, or Dam, which may have been constructed with the requisite permission, will be reserved for the exclusive use of the applicant, in case such Tram Road, Reservoir, or Dam, shall not, in the opinion of the Commissioner, he detrimental to the public interest.

FORM OF LICENSE REFERRED TO.

GOLD LICENSE.

No. (Date)

The Bearer,
of
having paid the sum of
I hereby License him to dig, search for, and remove alluvial Gold, on and from such land on the
Gold Field as shall be duly assigned to him for that purpose, for the period of One Calendar Month from the date hereof, subject to the Government Regulations in force for the time being for the management of the Gold Field.

This License does not extend to Matrix Gold, and it must he produced whenever demanded by a Commissioner or any person authorized in that behalf by a Commissioner.

(Signed)

APPENDIX.

N. B. – Every Licensed Person must always have his License with him ready to be produced whenever demanded by a Commissioner, or Person acting under his instructions, otherwise he is liable to be proceeded against as an unlicensed Person. It is enjoined that all Persons at the Gold Fields maintain and assist in maintaining a due and proper observance of Sundays.

London:

Printed by STEWART and MURRAY,

Old Bailey.

March 1854.

[ADVERTISEMENTS]

March 1854.

A CATALOGUE OF NEW AND STANDARD WORKS,

PUBLISHED BY SMITH, ELDER AND CO., 65, CORNHILL, LONDON.

Works in the Press

I. MR. RUSKIN'S LECTURES ON ARCHITECTURE AND PAINTING.
With Illustrations drawn by the Author.
One Volume, crown 8vo. {Just ready.)

II. THE LAWS OF WAR.
PART I. RELATING TO COMMERCE AND SHIPPING.
PART II. THE ARMY, NAVY, AND MILITIA.
BY H. BYERLEY THOMSON, ESQ., B. A.,
Barrister at Law. 8vo.

III. FOUR YEARS AT THE COURT OF HENRY VIII. Being the Despatches of Sebastian Guistinian, Venetian Ambassador to England;
Translated from the Italian by Rawdon Brown.
In One Volume.

IV. PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY OF THE HIMALAYA. By CAPTAIN RICHARD STRACHEY, Bengal Engineers. One Volume, 8vo, with Numerous Illustrations.

BOOKS PUBLISHED BY

Works in the Press

V. MODERN GERMAN MUSIC. By HENRY F. CHORLEY, Esq. Two Volumes, post 8vo. (Now ready.)

VI. COUNTERPARTS; or, THE CROSS OF LOVE. By the Author of " Charles Auchester. " Three Volumes, post 8vo. (Nearly ready.)

VII. NANETTE AND HER LOVERS. By TALBOT GWYNNE. Author of "The School for Fathers," "Silas Barnstarke," &c. One Volume, crown 8vo. (Now ready.)

VIII. HOLME GRANGE; or,. THE MODERN RUTH. By W.D. WATSON, Esq. Author of "Trevethlan," &c. Foolscap 8vo. (Nearly ready.)

IX. THE HEIR OF VALLIS. By WILLIAM MATHEWS, Esq. Three Volumes, post 8vo. (Now ready.)

X. TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES IN ASSAM. By CAPTAIN JOHN BUTLER. One Volume, 8vo, with Plates.

XI. A POPULAR EXPOSITION OF THE MERCANTILE LAW OF THE UNITED KINGDOM. By LEONE LEVI, Esq., F.S.S., Author of "The Commercial Law of the World."

SMITH, ELDER AND CO.

New Works just Published

I. THE RUSSO-TURKISH CAMPAIGNS of 1828-9: With an account of the present state of the Eastern Question. By COLONEL CHESNEY, R.A., D.C.L., F.R.S., Author of "The Expedition to the Euphrates and Tigris." Second Edition. One thick Volume, post 8vo, with Maps. Price 12s. cloth.
"The Military Memoir of Colonel Chesney is full and clear; occasionally presenting the active struggles of combat, but more generally exhibiting the strategy – the moves of the game. Iti this consists the principal value of the work." – Spectator.
"The best historical companion the reader can possess during the campaigns about to open." – Athenaeum.
"The only work on the subject suited to the military reader." – United Service Gazette.

II. THE BHILSA TOPES; or, Buddhist Monuments of Central India. By MAJOR CUNNINGHAM. One Volume, 8vo, with Thirty-three Plates, price 30s. cloth.
"Major Cunningham's most valuable and instructive book ought to help to awaken a popular interest in Indian antiquities, as the study of the Buddhist monuments leads directly to the elimination of historical truths of the most interesting kind. Of the Topes opened in various parts of India, none have yielded so rich a harvest of important information as these of Bhilsa, opened by Major Cunningham and Lieut. Maisey; and which are described, with an abundance of highly curious graphic illustrations, in this most interesting book." – Examiner.
"The work of Major Cunningham contains much that is original, and preserves the results of very important investigations. The variety of representations in bas-reliefs is unusually large. Not only are religious and military pageants, ceremonies, and battels depicted, but domestic scenes of a highly interesting character. " – Athenaeum.

III. BALDER. A POEM. By the Author of "The Roman." One Volume, crown 8vo, price 7s. 6d. cloth.
"The writer has fine qualities; his level of thought is lofty, and his passion for the beautiful has the truth of an instinct." – Athenaeum.
"We know of few poems evidencing more philosophic grasp and more poetic pith than 'Balder.'" – Critic.
"The richest volume of recent poetry." – Hogg's Instructor.

IV. DOINE; or, the National Songs and Legends of Roumania. Translated from the Originals, with an Introduction, and Specimens of the Music. By E.C. GRENVILLE MURRAY, Esq. One Volume, crown 8vo.
"The Doine are national songs of Roumania, which have been collected in "Wallachia, and are now offered to the public in an elegant English dress. They are extremely pretty and characteristic; and no one can glance at them without feeling a deep interest in a people who can feel so tenderly and nobly. The volume is tastefully executed. " – Athenaeum.

BOOKS PUBLISHED BY

New Works just Published

V. MAUDE TALBOT. By HOLME LEE. Three Volumes, post 8vo, price 31s. 6d.
"A well-wrought and really admirable work of fiction, of a solid and very thoughtful kind; the thoughtfulness is all thrown into the form of character and incident. The story has been carefully matured; the plot is well managed and extremely inte-resting; there is abundance and variety of incident; the style is graphic and terse, and the feeling everywhere excellent. Great skill is shown in the development of character; the persons of the tale are very distinct and real." – Examiner.

VI. AVILLION, AND OTHER TALES. By the Author of "Olive," "The Head of the Family," &c. Three Volumes, post 8vo, price 1l. 11s. 6d. cloth.
"'Avillion' is a beautiful and fanciful story; and the rest make agreeable reading. There is not one of them unquickened by true feeling, exquisite taste, and a pure and vivid imagination." – Examiner.
"These volumes form altogether as pleasant and fanciful a miscellany as has often been given to the public in these latter days. " – Athenaeum.
"In a nice knowledge of the refinements of the female heart, and in a happy power of depicting emotion, the authoress is excelled by very few story-tellers of the day." – Globe.

VII. JUVENILE DELINQUENCY. Two Essays which obtained the Prizes offered by Lady Noel Byron. By MICAIAH HILL and C.F. CORNWALLIS. One Volume, post 8vo, price 6s. cloth.
"This volume is the best existing manual of the subject. The first Essay may be said to compass the whole round of the subject, with its statistics presenting a manual of the standing facts and arguments. The other is remarkable for a vigorous portraiture of the general causes of juvenile delinquency; and it has a novelty and force which throw a new light upon the subject." – Spectator.
"We commend this volume to universal attention. In it is compactly yet very fully written the story of that savage horde among the civilized, which has now by a wise discipline to be transformed." – Examiner.

VIII. THE TRUE LAW OF POPULATION, Shown to be connected with the Food of the People. By THOMAS DOUBLEDAY. Third and Enlarged Edition, 8vo, price 10s. cloth.
"A very able and ingenious book." – Inquirer.
"A book of sterling value and deep interest." – Morning Advertiser.

SMITH, ELDER AND CO.

New Works just Published

IX. THE INSURRECTION IN CHINA. By Dr. YVAN and M. CALLERY. With a Supplementary Account of the Most Recent Events. BY JOHN OXENFORD. THIRD EDITION, ENLARGED. Post 8vo, with Chinese Map and Portrait, 7s. 6d., cloth.
"A curious book, giving a lucid account of the origin and progress of the civil war now raging in China, bringing it down to the present day." – Blackwood's Magazine.
"Their narrative is animated by traits of Chinese manners, opinions, and ideas, and by lively reminiscences of the country and some of the actors with whom the authors were personally acquainted." – Spectator.
"The book can scarcely fail to find a curious and interested public." – Athenaeum.
"An interesting publication, full of curious and valuable matter." – Examiner.
"The volume is instructive and attractive in a high degree." – Illustrated News.
"The Revolution in China is the greatest revolution the world has yet seen." – Times.

X. THE CROSS AND THE DRAGON; or, The Fortunes of Christianity in China; with notices of the Secret Societies of the Chinese. By J. KESSON. One Volume, post 8vo, price 6s. cloth.
"A painstaking and conscientious book." – Spectator.
"A very readable outline of the subject." – Athenaeum.
"A learned and excellent little book." – Glasgow Commonwealth.

XI. MEMORANDUMS MADE IN IRELAND. By SIR JOHN FORBES, M.D., Author of "The Physician's Holiday." Two Vols., Post 8vo, with Illustrations, price 1l. 1s. cloth.
"A complete handbook of the sister island. If there be any, who, knowing nothing of its social and political condition, meditate a tour in Ireland, the pleasure and profit to be derived from the journey will be much enhanced by a careful study of Dr. Forbes's very sensible observations." – New Quarterly Review.
"The book is excellent, and, like all the writings of its author, points to a good purpose. It is honest, thoughtful, liberal, and kindly. By readers of all grades Dr. Forbes's volumes will be read with pleasure." – Examiner.
"Dr. Forbes is evidently possessed of a candid mind, and though he has dealt with polemical matter, he does not write in a sectarian spirit." – Athenaeum.

XII. AUCKLAND, NEW ZEALAND, AND THE COUNTRY ADJACENT. Post 8vo, with a View and Coloured Map, price 6s. cloth.

BOOKS PUBLISHED BY

Works of Mr. Ruskin.

I. THE STONES OF VENICE. By JOHN RUSKIN, Esq., Author of "Modern Painters," "Seven Lamps of Architecture," &c. Now complete, in Three Volumes, imperial 8vo, with 53 Plates, and numerous Woodcuts, drawn by the Author. Price 5l. 15s. 6d., in embossed cloth, with top edge gilt.
Each Volume may be had separately, -viz. –
Vol. I. – THE FOUNDATIONS, with 21 Plates. Price 2l. 2s.
Vol. 1l. – THE SEA STORIES, with 20 Plates. Price 1l. 2s.
Vol. III. – THE FALL, with 12 Plates. Price 1l. 11s. 6d.
"This book is one which, perhaps, no other man could have written, and one for which the world ought to be and will be thankful. It is in the highest degree eloquent, acute, stimulating to thought, and fertile in suggestion. It shows a power of practical criticism which, when fixed on a definite object, nothing absurd or evil can withstand; and a power of appreciation which has restored treasures of beauty to mankind. It will, we are convinced, elevate taste and intellect, raise the tone of moral feeling, kindle benevolence towards men, and increase the love and fear of God." – Times.
"The 'Stones of Venice' is the production of an earnest, religious, progressive, and informed mind. The author of this essay on architecture has condensed into it a poetic apprehension, the fruit of awe of God, and delight in nature; a knowledge, love, and just estimate of art; a holding fast to fact and repudiation of hearsay; an historic breadth, and a fearless challenge of existing social problems; whose union we know not where to find paralleled." – Spectator.
"One of the most important works on aesthetics ever published in this country; and which not only equals in profundity any single work put forth in modern times upon art, but surpasses in importance any that has heretofore been written upon the subject; inasmuch as the writer is gifted with the rare tact to make profound truths plain to common understandings." – Daily News.
"No one who has studied art in Venice will go through this book without such pleasure as belongs to a revival of some of bis warmest admirations, and the refreshment of his most delicious associations. It is full of fine things, and of true things." – Athenaeum.
"This works shows that Mr. Ruskin's powers of competition and criticism were never in greater force. His eloquence is as rich, his enthusiasm as hearty, his sympathy for all that is high and noble in art as keen as ever. The book, like all he writes, is manly and high-minded, and, as usual, keeps the attention alive to the last." – Guardian.
"No one who has visited Venice can read this book without having a richer glow thrown over his remembrances of that city; and for those who have not, Mr. Ruskin punts it with a firmness of outline and vividness of colouring that will bring it before the imagination with the force of reality." – Literary Gazette.
"The whole is eloquent and thoughtful, and creative of thought in others. This book is a noble innovation upon the old dead talk of architects, and amateurs in architecture." – Examiner.
"The reputation which Mr. Ruskin has earned by his former works will probably receive a great accession of lustre from the 'Stones of Venice.' This work, as we had a right to expect from, the age and evidently growing powers of the author, may be justly described as his most valuable performance, and fitted to become the most popular of all his productions." – British Quarterly Review.

SMITH, ELDER AND CO.

Works of Mr. Ruskin

II. MODERN PAINTERS. Imperial 8vo. Vol. I. Fifth Edition, 18s. cloth. Vol. 1l. Third Edition, 10s. 6d. cloth.
"Mr. Ruskin's work will send the painter more than ever to the study of nature; will train men who have always been delighted spectators of nature, to be also attentive observers. Our critics will learn to admire, and mere admirers will learn how to criticise: thus a public will be educated." – Blackwood's Magazine.
"A generous and impassioned review of the works of living painters. A hearty and earnest work, full of deep thought, and developing great and striking truths in art." – British Quarterly Review.
"A very extraordinary and delightful book, full of truth and goodness, of power and beauty." – -North British Review.
"One of the most remarkable works on art which has appeared in our time." – Edinburgh Review.
*** The Third Volume is in preparation.

III. THE SEVEN LAMPS OF ARCHITECTURE. With Fourteen Etchings by the Author. Imperial 8vo, 1l. 1s. cloth.
"By the 'Seven Lamps of Architecture,' we understand Mr. Ruskin to mean the seven fundamental and cardinal laws, the observance of and obedience to which are indispensable to the architect who would deserve the name. The politician, the moralist, the divine, will find in it ample store of instructive matter, as well as the artist. " – Examiner.

IV. PRE-RAPHAELITISM. 8vo., 2s. sewed.
"We wish that this pamphlet might be largely read by our art-patrons, and studied by our art-critics. There is much to be collected from it which is very important to remember." – Guardian.

V. THE KING OF THE GOLDEN RIVER; or, The Black Brothers. With 22 Illustrations by RICHARD DOYLE. 2s. 6d.
"This little fairy tale is by a master hand. The story has a charming moral, and the writing is so excellent, that it would be hard to say which it will give most pleasure to, the very wise man or the very simple child." – Examiner.

VI. NOTES ON THE CONSTRUCTION OF SHEEP-FOLDS. 8vo., 1s.
"A pamphlet on the doctrine and discipline of the Church of Christ." – Britannia.

BOOKS PUBLISHED BY

Works of Mr. Thackeray

I. LECTURES ON THE ENGLISH HUMOURISTS OF THE i8th CENTURY. By W.M. THACKERAY, Esq.,
Author of "Esmond," "Vanity Fair," "Pendennis," &c Second Edition, revised by the Author. In One Volume, crown 8vo., price 10s. 6d. cloth.
"To those who attended the lectures, the book will be a pleasant reminiscence, to others an exciting novelty. The style – clear, idiomatic, forcible, familiar, but never slovenly; the searching strokes of sarcasm or irony; the occasional flashes of generous scorn; the touches of pathos, pity, and tenderness; the morality tempered but never weakened by experience and sympathy; the felicitous phrases, the striking anecdotes, the passages of wise, practical reflection; all these lose much less than we could have expected from the absence of the voice, manner, and look of the lecturer." – Spectator.
"What fine things the lectures contain! What eloquent and subtle sayings, what wise and earnest writing! How delightful are their turns of humour; with what a touching effect, in the graver passages, the genuine feeling of the man comes out; and how vividly the thoughts are fainted, as it were, in graphic and characteristic words." – Examiner.
"This is to us by far the most acceptable of Mr. Thackeray's writings. His graphic style, his philosophical spirit, his analytical powers, his large-heartedness, his shrewdness and his gentleness, have all room to exhibit themselves." – Economist.
"These Lectures are rich in all the best qualities of the author's genius, and adapted to awaken and nourish a literary taste thoroughly English." – British Quarterly Review.
"One of the most amusing books that we have read for a long time, and one that we think will occupy a lasting place in English literature." – Standard.

II. ESMOND. By W.M. THACKERAY, Esq., Second Edition, 3 Vols., crown 8vo, price 1l. 11s. 6d. cloth.
"Mr. Thackeray has selected for his hero a very noble type of the cavalier softening into the man of the eighteenth century, and for his heroine one of the sweetest women that ever breathed from canvass or from book, since Raffaelle painted and Shakespeare wrote. The style is manly, clear, terse, and vigorous, reflecting every mood, pathetic, grave, or sarcastic – of the writer." – Spectator.
"Once more we feel that we have before us a masculine and thorough English writer, uniting the power of subtle analysis with a strong volition and a moving eloquence – an eloquence which has gained in richness and harmony." – Athenaeum.
"In quiet richness, 'Esmond' mainly resembles the old writers; as it does also in weight of thought, sincerity of purpose, and poetry of the heart and brain." – Fraser's Magazine.

A PORTRAIT OF W.M. THACKERAY, Esq. Engraved by Francis Holl, from a Drawing by Samuel Laurence. India Proofs, 2l. 2s.; Prints, 1l. 1s.

SMITH, ELDER AND CO.

Works of Currer Bell.

I. VILLETTE. By CURRER BELL, Author of "Jane Eyre," "Shirley," &c In Three Volumes, post 8vo, price 1l. 11s. 6d. cloth.
"This book would have made Currer Bell famous had she not been already. It retrieves all the ground she lost in 'Shirley,' and it will engage a wider circle of readers than 'Jane Eyre,' for it has all the best qualities of that remarkable book. There is throughout a charm of freshness which is infinitely delightful: freshness in observation, freshness in feeling, freshness in expression." – Literary Gazette.
"This novel amply sustains the fame of the author of 'Jane Eyre' and 'Shirley' as an original and powerful writer. 'Villette' is a most admirably written novel, everywhere original, everywhere shrewd, and at heart everywhere kindly." – Examiner.
"The tale is one of the affections, and remarkable as a picture of manners. A burning heart glows throughout it, and one brilliantly distinct character keeps it alive." – Athenaeum.
"Of interesting scenes and well-drawn characters there is abundance. The characters are various, happily conceived, and some of them painted with a truth of detail rarely surpassed." – Spectator.

II. SHIRLEY; a Tale. By CURRER BELL. A new Edition. Crown 8vo, 6s. cloth.
"The peculiar power which was so greatly admired in 'Jane Eyre' is not absent from this book. It possesses deep interest, and an irresistible grasp of reality. There is a vividness and distinctness of conception in it quite marvellous. The power of graphic delineation and expression is intense. There are scenes which, for strength and delicacy of emotion, are not transcended in the range of English fiction. – Examiner.
"'Shirley' is an admirable book; genuine English in the independence and uprightness of the tone of thought, in the purity of heart and feeling which pervade it, in the masculine vigour of its conception of character." – Morning Chronicle.
"'Shirley' is very clever. The faculty of graphic description, strong imagination, fervid and masculine diction, analytic skill, all are visible. Gems of rare thought and glorious passion shine here and there throughout the volumes." – Times.

III. JANE EYRE: an Autobiography. By CURRER BELL. Fourth Edition. Crown 8vo, 6s. cloth.
"'Jane Eyre' is a remarkable production. Freshness and originality, truth and passion, singular felicity in the description of natural scenery and in the analyzation of human thought, enable this tale to stand boldly out from the mass, and to assume its own place in the bright field of romantic literature. We could not but be struck with the raciness and ability of the work, by the independent sway of a thoroughly original and unworn pen, by the masculine current of noble thoughts, and the unflinching dissection of the dark yet truthful character." – Times.

IV. WUTHERING HEIGHTS and AGNES GREY. By ELLIS and ACTON BELL. With a Selection of their Literary Remains, and a Biographical Notice of both Authors, by CURRER BELL. Crown 8vo, 6s. cloth.

V. POEMS. By CURRER, ELLIS, and ACTON BELL. 4s. cloth.

BOOKS PUBLISHED BY

Mr. Gwynne's Fictions.

I. THE LIFE AND DEATH OF SILAS BARNSTARKE. By TALBOT GWYNNE. One Volume, crown 8vo., price 10s. 6d. cloth.
"Mr. Gwynne has adopted the nervous and succinct style of our forefathers, while narrating the career of a lover of money. The reader will find little to impede his interest in following the career of this bad man to its bad end." – -Athenaeum.
"In many ways this book is remarkable. Silas and his relations stand forth so distinctly and forcibly, and with so much simplicity, that we are far more inclined to feel of them as if they really lived, than of the writers of pretended diaries and autobiographies. The manners and ways of speech of the time are portrayed admirably." – Guardian.
"The gradual growth of the sin of covetousness, its temporary disturbance by the admixture of a softer passion, and the pangs of remorse, are portrayed with high dramatic effect, resembling in some scenes the gigantic majesty of ancient Tragedy." – John Bull.
"A story possessing an interest so tenacious that no one who. commences it, will easily leave the perusal unfinished." – Standard.
" A book of high aim and unquestionable power. " – Examiner.

II. THE SCHOOL FOR FATHERS; An Old English Story. By T. GWYNNE. Crown 8vo. Price 10s. 6d. cloth.
"The pleasantest tale we have read for many a day. It is a story of the Tatler and Spectator days, and is very fitly associated with that time of good English literature by its manly feeling, direct, unaffected manner of writing, and nicely managed, well-turned narrative. The descriptions are excellent; some of the country painting is as fresh as a landscape by Constable, or an idyl by Alfred Tennyson.". – Examiner.
"'The School for Fathers' is at once highly amusing and deeply interesting – full of that genuine humour which is half pathos – and written with a freshness of feeling and raciness of style which entitle it to be called a tale in the Vicar of Wakefield school." – Britannia.
"Few are the tales so interesting to read, and so admirable in purpose and style, as 'The School for Fathers.'" – Globe.

III. THE SCHOOL FOR DREAMERS. By T. GWYNNE. Crown 8vo. Price 10s. 6d. cloth.
"The master-limner of the follies of mankind, the author of 'The School for Fathers,' has produced another tale abounding with traits of exquisite humour and sallies of sparkling wit." – John Bull.
"'The School for Dreamers' may be credited with life, humour, and vigour. There is a spirit of enjoyment in Mr. Gwynne's descriptions which indicates a genial temperament, as well as a shrewd eye." – Athenaeum.
"A story which inculcates a sound and sensible moral in a manner equally delightful and effective." – Morning Post.
"A powerfully and skilfully-written book, intended to show the mischief and danger of following imagination instead of judgment in the practical business of life." – Literary Gazette.
"An admirable and caustic satire on 'equality and fraternity' theories." – Britannia.

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Miss Kavanagh's female Biographies

I. WOMEN OF CHRISTIANITY, EXEMPLARY FOR PIETY AND CHARITY. By JULIA KAVANAGH. Post 8vo, with Portraits. Price 12s. in embossed cloth, gilt edges.
"The authoress has supplied a great desideratum both in female biography and morals. The style is clear, the matter solid, and the conclusions just." – Globe.
"A more noble and dignified tribute to the virtues of her sex we can scarcely imagine than this work, to which the gifted authoress has brought talents of no ordinary range, and, more than all, a spirit of eminent piety." – Church of England Quarterly Review.
"The same range of female biography is taken by no other volume; and an equal skill in the delineation of characters is rarely to be found. The author has accomplished her task with intelligence and feeling, and with general fairness and truth." – Nonconformist.
"Miss Kavanagh has wisely chosen that noble succession of saintly women who, in all ages of Christianity, are united by their devotion to the sick, the wretched, and the destitute." – Guardian.

II. WOMAN IN FRANCE DURING THE 18th CENTURY. BY JULIA KAVANAGH. 2 vols, post 8vo, with Eight Portraits. 12s. in embossed cloth.
"Miss Kavanagh has undertaken a delicate task, and she has performed it on the whole with discretion and judgment. Her volumes may lie on any drawing-room table without scandal, and may be read by all but her youngest countrywomen without risk." – Quarterly Review.
"Which among us will be ever tired of reading about the women of France? especially when they are marshalled so agreeably and discreetly as in the pages before us." – Athenaeum,
"The subject is handled with much delicacy and tact, and takes a wide range of examples. The book shows often an original tone of remark, and always a graceful and becoming one." – -Examiner.

Miss Wormeley's Novel.

AMABEL. By MARY ELIZABETH WORMELEY. Three Volumes, post 8vo. Price 1l. 11s. 6d.
"This fiction displays ability of a high kind. Miss Wormeley has considerable knowledge of society, much skill in depicting its persons and salient features, with the penetration to pierce below the surface. The characters are well conceived, and sustained: many of the latter parts possess considerable and rapid interest, and the composition is buoyant and animated." – -Spectator.
"To enforce the moral that love, the principle, not the passion, infused into our duties, works its own reward, is the task undertaken by the writer of this pathetic and deeply affecting story." – Globe.

BOOKS PUBLISHED BY

Works of Mr Leigh Hunt.

I. THE AUTOBIOGRAPHY OF LEIGH HUNT: with Reminiscences of Friends and Contemporaries. 3 vols, post 8vo, with Portraits, 1l. ?. cloth.
"These volumes contain a personal recollection of the literature and politics, as well as some of the most remarkable literary men and politicians, of the last fifty years. The reminiscences are varied by sketches of manners during the same period, and by critical remarks on various topics. They are also extended by boyish recollection, family tradition, and contemporary reading; so that we have a sort of social picture of almost a century, with its fluctuations of public fortune and its changes of fashions, manners, and opinions." – Spectator.

II. THE TOWN: its Memorable Characters and Events. 2 vols, post 8vo, with 45 Illustrations, 1l. 4s. cloth.
"We will allow no higher enjoyment for a rational Englishman than to stroll leisurely through this marvellous town arm-in-arm with Mr. Leigh Hunt. He gives us the outpourings of a mind enriched with the most agreeable knowledge." – Times.

III. MEN, WOMEN, AND BOOKS. 2 vols, post 8vo, with Portrait, 10s. cloth.
"A book for a parlour-window, for a summer's eve, for a warm fireside, for a half-hour's leisure, for a whole day's luxury; in any and every possible shape a charming companion." – Westminster Review.

IV. IMAGINATION AND FANCY. 5s. cloth. "The very essence of the sunniest qualities of the English poets." – Atlas.

V. WIT AND HUMOUR. 5s. cloth.
"A book at once exhilarating and suggestive." – Athenaeum.

VI. A JAR OF HONEY FROM MOUNT HYBLA. 5s.
"A book acceptable at all seasons." – Athenaeum.

VII. TABLE TALK. 3s. 6d. cloth. "Precisely the book we would take as a companion on the green lane walk." – Globe.

SMITH, ELDER AND CO.

Miscellaneous.

I. TWO THOUSAND MILES' RIDE THROUGH THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES: with an Account of Buenos Ayres, the Rio de la Plata, Monte Video, &c. By WILLIAM MCCANN, Esq. 2 Vols., post 8vo, with Illustrations. Price 24s. cloth.
"The animated narrative of an observant and sensible man; containing much general information of value to commercial men, and a full history of the recent civil war." – British Quarterly Review.
"A complete hand-book for the Argentine Provinces, giving a lucid and intelligible account of their political condition." – New Quarterly Review.
"This book contains good and instructive matter, much local knowledge of Buenos Ayres, and information concerning the Banda Oriental, and Paraguay." – Athenaeum.
"An admirable account of life in the Argentine Provinces." – Literary Gazette.

II. THE SECOND BURMESE WAR. A Narrative of the Operations at Rangoon. By Lieut. WILLIAM F.B. LAURIE, Madras Artillery. Post 8vo, with Map, Plans, and Views. Price 10s. 6d. cloth.
"The events of the current campaign are here condensed and illustrated by plans of each important scene of action." – Globe.
"This volume exhibits war in its details, as seen by the subaltern, and in its larger aspects as picked up from the gossip and criticism of the camp." – Spectator.
"A military narrative, illustrated by plans, views, and sections, and calculated to remove many erroneous impressions as to the character of the second Burmese war." – Literary Gazette.
"An interesting account of the recent operations in Burmah; the details of which, the maps and plans in the book enable us fully to understand." – New Quarterly Review.
"A rapid narrative, in soldierly style, of the warlike operations at Rangoon." – Athenaeum.

III. TRAITS OF AMERICAN INDIAN LIFE. By a FUR TRADER. Post 8vo, price 7s. cloth.
"A genuine volume. The writer is an actor in the scenes he describes, and in his veracious pages are graphically delineated the hazards which adventurous fur-traders undergo, and the savage life of the wilderness." – Morning Advertiser.
"The fur-trader's little book, containing sketches of real life among the people of the Oregon, is very welcome, from his knowledge of the Indian tribes." – Examiner.

IV. TALES OF THE COLONIES; or, THE ADVENTURES OF AN EMIGRANT. By CHARLES ROWCROFT, Esq. Fifth Edition. 6s. cloth.

BOOKS PUBLISHED BY

Miscellaneous.

IV. POETICS: AN ESSAY ON POETRY. By E.S. DALLAS, Esq. In One Volume, crown 8vo. Price 9s. cloth.
"This book is one of the most remarkable emanations of the present time. It actually overflows with the nectar of thought. 'Poetics' should be read, for no reviewer can present a perfect idea of the richness of language and aphorism which run, like silver threads, through the soberer line of argument." – Critic.
"A remarkable work – the work of a scholar, a critic, a thinker. It contains many novel views and much excellent matter. The style is fresh, independent, sharp, clear, and often felicitous. Amidst the intricacies of his complex subject, Mr. Dallas moves with the calm precision of one who knows the labyrinth." – Leader.
"We recommend Mr. Dallas's book highly and cordially. There is much that will please in the shape of shrewd observation, and lucid and deep criticism." North British Review.

V. CONVERSATIONS OF GOETHE with ECKERMANN. Translated from the German by JOHN OXEN-FORD. 2 vols, post 8vo, 10s. cloth.
"These conversations present a distinct and truthful image of Goethe's mind during the last ten years of his life. And never was his judgment more clear and correct than in his closing years. The time spent on the perusal of this book will be usefully and agreeably employed. Mr. Oxenford's translation is as exact and faithful as it is elegant." – Spectator.

VI. THE LAND TAX OF INDIA, According to the Moohummudan Law. By NEIL B.E. BAILLIE, Esq., Author of the "Moohummudan Law of Sale," &c 8vo, price 6s. cloth.
"A most valuable addition to the stock of materials accessible to the English reader on the 'Land Tax of India.' Mr. Baillie may be said to exhaust the subject of which he affords a complete elucidation, and the accuracy of his translation may be implicitly relied on." – Press.
"A complete account of the Mahomedan law of land-tax." – Economist.
"A learned and valuable treatise." – Literary Gazette.

VII. THE THEORY AND PRACTICE OF CASTE. By B.A. IRVING, Esq. One Volume, post 8vo, price 5s. cloth.
"An elaborate and painstaking performance, exhibiting a digested view of the old theory and the actual operation of caste, from the best authorities, and giving rise to some hints that may be useful in our future dealings with the people of India." Spectator.
"A volume worth consulting, especially for the indications it affords of the sources of our success in establishing a peaceful dominion in India, amongst races of different religions." – Globe.

SMITH, ELDER AND CO.

Works of Practical Information.

COMMERCIAL LAW OF THE WORLD. By Leone Levi, Esq., F.S.S. 2 Vols. Royal 4to. Price 61. cloth.
*** This work obtained the Swiney Prize, offered for the best Treatise on Jurisprudence in the English language, published prior to 1854.

SIR JOHN HERSCHEL'S ASTRONOMICAL OBSERVATIONS MADE AT THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 4to. with Plates. Price 4l. 4s., cloth.

CRAWFURD'S GRAMMAR AND DICTIONARY OF THE MALAY LANGUAGE. 2 vols. 8vo, 36s. cloth.
"A book of standard and enduring value: the best authority now extant on the subject of which it treats." – Examiner.

DARWIN'S GEOLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS on Coral Reefs, Volcanic Islands, and on South America. 8vo, with Maps, Plates, and Woodcuts, 10s. 6d. cloth.

THE SAILOR'S HORN-BOOK OF STORMS. By HENRY PIDDINGTON, Esq. Second Edition, 8vo, 10s. 6d., with Charts and Storm-Cards.
"A valuable practical work." – Nautical Magazine.

CONVERSATIONS ABOUT HURRICANES, FOR THE USE OF PLAIN SAILORS. By HENRY PIDDINGTON. 8vo, 7s. With Storm-Cards.

THE BRITISH OFFICER; his Position, Duties, Emoluments, and Privileges. By J. H. STOCQUELER. 8vo, 15s. cloth extra.

DR. ROYLE ON THE CULTURE AND COMMERCE OF COTTON IN INDIA. 8vo, 18s. cloth.

BOOKS PUBLISHED BY SMITH, ELDER AND CO.

Religious, and Educational.

THE NOVITIATE; or, THE JESUIT IN TRAINING: being a Year among the English Jesuits. By ANDREW STEINMETZ. Third Edition, post 8vo, 5s. cloth.
"This is a remarkable book. It describes with a welcome minuteness, the daily, nightly, hourly occupations of the Jesuit Novitiates of Stonyhurst, their religious exercises and manners, in private and together; and depicts, with considerable acuteness and power, the conflicts of an intelligent, susceptible, honest-purposed spirit, while passing through such a process." – British Quarterly Review.

A CONVERTED ATHEIST'S TESTIMONY TO THE TRUTH OF CHRISTIANITY: being the Autobiography of ALEXANDER HARRIS. Fourth Edition, fcap. 8vo, 3s. cloth.
"A very interesting account of the experience of an intelligent and sincere mind on the subject of religion. We can honestly recommend the book to the notice of our readers." – Eclectic Review.

THE RECTORY OF VALEHEAD. By the REV. ROBERT WILSON EVANS. Fourteenth Edition. 3s. cloth.
"Universally and cordially do we recommend this delightful volume. We believe no person could read this work and not be the better for its pious and touching lessons." – Literary Gazette.

ELEMENTARY WORKS on SOCIAL ECONOMY. Uniform in fcap. 8vo, half-bound.
I. – OUTLINES OF SOCIAL ECONOMY, 1s. 6d.
II. – PROGRESSIVE LESSONS IN SOCIAL SCIENCE, 1s. 6d.
III. – INTRODUCTION TO THE SOCIAL SCIENCES, 2s.
IV. – QUESTIONS AND ANSWERS on the Arrangements and Relations or Social Life. 1s. 6d.
V. – OUTLINES OF THE UNDERSTANDING. 2s.
VI. – WHAT AM I? WHERE AM I? WHAT OUGHT I TO DO? &c 1s. sewed.
"The author of these various manuals of the social sciences has the art of stating clearly the abstruse points of political economy and metaphysics, and making them level to every understanding." – Economist.

PARENTS' CABINET of Amusement and Instruction. 6 vols. 2s. 6d. each. Each volume is complete in itself, and may be had separately.

LITTLE STORIES from the Parlour Printing Press. By the Author of the "Parents' Cabinet." 2s. cloth.

LONDON; PRINTED BY STEWART AND MURRAY, OLD BAILEY.

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