Important Information Relative to New Zealand

William White

First published by Thomas Brennand in 1839

Digitised and made available online by Auckland Libraries and the University of Auckland Libraries and Learning Services.

Epub © 2013 Early New Zealand Books Collection

ISBN 978-1-927279-26-7

[TITLE PAGES]

IMPORTANT
INFORMATION
RELATIVE TO
NEW ZEALAND

,

INTENDED TO BE AN ANSWER TO ALL INQUIRIES MADE BY THOSE WHO ARB INTERESTED IN THE OCCUPANCY OF THAT COUNTRY BY BRITISH SUBJECTS, &C, ESPECIALLY WITH RESPECT TO QUESTIONS RELATIVE TO ITS GEOGRAPHY, SOIL, CLIMATE, NATURAL RESOURCES, AND THE VALIDITY OK TITLES TO LANDS PURCHASED FROM THE NATIVE CHIEFS BY FOREIGNERS.

TOGETHER WITH
AN APPENDIX,
COMPRISING THE LATEST
OFFICIAL DOCUMENTS
RELATING TO THAT
INTERESTING COUNTRY.

WRITTEN BY A GENTLEMAN WHO HAS BEEN A RESIDENT FOURTEEN YEARS AT HOKIANGA.

SYDNEY:
PUBLISHED BY THOMAS BRENNAND, GEORGE STREET
1839.

Printed by A. BENT, at the AUSTRALASIAN CHRONICLE OFFICE

[PREFACE]

PREFACE.

THE brief period to which the writer of this works' visit to the Colony, extended with his other engagements requiring almost the whole of his time and attention, did not permit him to contemplate, in undertaking to write this brief sketch of New Zealand, any thing like "Making a Book," or indeed to convey more than a tithe of what would be necessary to do justice to the subject, or give a full and correct idea of the present state of that interesting country; but rather to oblige a few friends, who, with himself, feel a lively interest in its future prospects and social condition, as well as in some degree to meet, in the only practical manner in his power, the numerous enquiries that have been made to him personally since his late arrival in the Colony, and as a guide to the increasing interest that now prevails regarding New Zealand, as an eligible country for the settlement of Europeans. The object throughout has therefore been to collect a few plain facts on the various points on which general enquiry seems most to bear, considering such a course better calculated to satisfy practical men than a more voluminous and laboured composition.

The writer, from his long residence in New Zealand, now nearly fourteen years, during which period his avocations have afforded him the opportunity of informing himself of its resources, and the character of its inhabitants, considers he is entitled to speak with some degree of confidence on the various subjects of which he briefly treats, and has availed himself of the recent publications on New Zealand, to select such portions as coincides with his own experience and information on the same subject. Should he find that he has in any degree succeeded in conveying to those who may contemplate emigrating to New Zealand, a correct idea of what they may expect, or serve to disabuse the public mind of some of the absurd and erroneous statements that nave in some instances been put forth, calculated to mislead those who visit New Zealand, for the first time his object will be fully attained. The Author regrets that, for the reasons already mentioned, he has been prevented from performing what he at first proposed, so much to his own satisfaction as he could have wished; but should the few leisure hours he has been enabled to devote to it in any trifling degree, be the means of inducing only a few respectable individuals to adopt that country as their permanent residence, by which he conceives its rapid rise into importance would soon appear beyond doubt, it would afford him great satisfaction to reflect that they had ended in such a result.

PREFATORY REMARKS.

IT is now generally admitted, that British Government should be established in New Zealand – that a Military Force should he maintained there - that the British Subjects already settled there, and possessing extensive tracts of land, obtained by purchase from the Natives, should be organized into a regular Society or Colony, to check and finally put an end to the frightful disorders which have hitherto prevailed in that important country.

Since the Petition from the British residents to the Crown has reached England, public attention has been directed to the subject, and a very general interest excited in favour of its colonization.

With the spread, however, of this favourable impression, doubts and apprehensions have likewise arisen. Questions have been raised by some about the expediency, and even about the justifiable character of such a measure. On the most important of these questions - that of colonizing New Zealand – I have a few remarks to make.

Respecting the settlement of a Colony like New Zealand, where Native Inhabitants are found, it is alleged that where civilized men have been planted, in the neighbourhood of savages, the savages, instead of being bettered by the intercourse, have suf-

fered grievous afflictions – have had their numbers rapidly thinned; and that in many instances total extermination, through stages of misery at which humanity shudders, has been the fatal result; and in testimony of this, appeal is made to the history of Aborigines throughout the world, and especially to the history of the American Islanders, which (the fact is undeniable), has long since excited attention, although far less attention than it deserves, and various causes have been assigned for so unnatural a consequence of what would seem to be the natural process of social improvement for the human race. It has been attributed to the additional occasions afforded for wars among the Natives – to the cruel usage of them by the Colonists, whether in warring against them or reducing them to servitude – to the diminution of land necessary for their support – to the introduction of intemperate habits, and all their attendant diseases and calamities; and as aggravating other causes to a feeling of despondency, acting, like all other feelings in savages, with uncontrolled power, and rendering them careless of life. 1 There is, unhappily, too much foundation for every one of these evils; but still it is impossible not to feel that there must be something wrong in coming to the conclusion that we are so constituted by nature as to make these evils unavoidable. Can it be a law of nature, that civilized and Christian men may not have free intercourse with their uncivilized brethren, and live side by side with them, without ruining and destroying them? Is it natural? – is it reasonable? – is it in accordance with many obvious arrangements of Providence? I cannot bring myself to think this. Experience of past errors and crimes does, indeed, make it an imperative

dutyy to colonize carefully, providing against such calamitous results.

But, whatever may be the force of this objection, as an objection against colonizing any other country of savages, how does it apply to New Zealand? If there be any truth in the notion that civilized men have a desolating effect on savages, this effect must proceed, not from the mere circumstance of their living on the same soil, but from their intercourse. Now, if during one year 151 vessels, many of considerable size, anchor in the Bay of Islands, is it not too late to talk of averting from the New Zealanders the risk of civilized society? I say nothing of the Missionary Settlements – of the increasing body of traders and merchants, or of that dissolute and desperate class of intruders, who have no legitimate object in view – all elements of a growing community, without the needful links of one. It is not, in fact, a question between colonization with its attendant risk to the Aborigines, and no colonization with security against that risk; but it is a question between a regular Colony, complete in its social arrangements, and governed by a responsible Government and factories, with Missionary stations and individual adventurers settling irregularly into Colonial establishments, provoking aggression from the Natives by their very weakness, and multiplying every chance of evil that is apprehended. This is the real alternative. Regular Colonization has now become indispensible as a remedy to the evils of irregular Colonization. Let any one who doubts it, read the letters of Mr. Busby and Captain Hobson; the dispatch of General Bourke, and the Petition from New Zealand itself, appended to this work. The combination of testimony to this fact does seem to be irresistible.

Another scruple, extending likewise to all Colonization, is felt about the preliminary step of purchasing land. It is said, if the land be taken possession of without the consent of the Natives, it is a manifest injustice and aggression; and if, as is generally the case, it be purchased from them at the present rate of purchases, is it not a fraud? is it not taking advantage of these poor savages? I should say no; for, although there is something plausible in this, it can only exist so long as we keep out of view the circumstance which gives value to the land in question. In a country so thinly peopled by inhabitants, who derive their sustenance not from hunting, but from the produce of the soil, the immense overplus of land not required for this purpose, is to them completely valueless; it is Colonization which must give value to the laud. The price now demanded for it is probably as much as it is at present worth, both in the estimation of the Natives and Europeans; and that the possessors of land that have purchased are some of them persons whose very position in the Island places them above the suspicion of fraud, to wit, the British Resident, the Missionaries, and respectable traders; and it does not appear to me a greater fraud to purchase the surplus quantity of land from the Natives, on such terms as they may consider a fair equivalent, than to purchase the overplus produce of the land, such as timber, flax, &c. In truth, there is nothing fraudulent in it – the price, in either case, is probably not below its real value.

1 See Robertson's History of America, book viii.

GEOGRAPHY.

GEOGRAPHY.

THE general Geography of New Zealand is too well known to require any thing more than a reference to the results of the survey of those Islands by our celebrated Navigator, Captain Cook. It is however deemed a subject of sufficient importance to the speculating and enterprising portion of British subjects, of the rapidly rising Colonies of Australia, to furnish a detail of the most recent discoveries of its harbours, rivers, lakes, &c. &c. &c. The extensive and beautiful islands of New Zealand are situated between the 34th and 48th degrees of South latitude, and the 166th and 179th degrees of East longitude, and are the nearest antipodes of Great Britain. The nearest land to the Westward is Van Diemen's Land and New Holland; to the Eastward, Chili, in South America; and to the Northward, the Friendly Islands, and the adjacent cluster of islands forming the great Polynesian archipelago.

The extent of New Zealand has been variously estimated. From the North to the South Cape it is about nine hundred miles – the greatest breadth about three hundred miles; and at a distance of about an hundred miles from the North Cape, there is an isthmus of not more than three miles across. By the latest, and it is believed the most accurate

account, the area of the Northern island is computed at forty thousand English square miles, while that of the Southern island – of which Stewart's island may be considered an appendage – is considerably more than one-third larger. The extent of the two islands are considered to be ninety-five thousand English square miles, or above sixty millions of square acres.

It will be remembered that Captain Cook was prevented, by severe weather, from approaching closer to the Western coast, than from five to eight leagues; and, as very little attention has been subsequently paid to its survey, consequently the information now to be submitted to the public of the harbours, &c. of that part of the Northern island, although partially known, will be, it is presumed, new and worthy of attention by those who contemplate becoming proprietors of land or residents in that country.

Commencing then at the North Cape, or Cape Maria, Van Diemen's, at the distance of about twenty miles, is –

1st. – The open roadstead of Wharo. The anchorage is good, on a firm fast sandy beach, and the supplies from the natives of fresh provision abundant at the proper season, viz. from June to the latter end of April or May, and it may be well to observe that at the period above noted, ships may generally approach and anchor with the greatest safety, as the winds at that season of the year very frequently prevail from the Eastward, consequently we have a smooth sea on the Western coast.

2nd. – Whangape is a small harbour, about twenty miles to the Southward of Wharo, and about fifteen North of Hokianga. The breadth of the entrance

is about 200 yards; there is a rock a little to the Northward of mid-channel, visible at low water. The best channel is between this rock and the South Head. I am not aware that soundings have been taken, but as I have often visited the place, and had a favourable view from an elevated situation, and never having seen breakers at the entrance, I conclude there is deep water. The channel, inside, continues about the same width as the entrance for three or four miles; with a chain of mountains on either side, and then expands into a beautiful bay. The shore is bold and iron bound on both sides. This harbour has not been marked on any chart yet published; and as strangers, bound for Hokinnga, have frequently mistaken Whangape for that harbour, it may not be amiss to remark, that in order to avoid this mistake it must be kept iu mind, that the coast to the Southward of Hokianga harbour is bold and iron bound, and that to the Northward consists of a range of moderately high sand-hills, terminating in a range of mountains, extending to the South entrance of Whangape, but the coast on both sides of Whangape harbour is very bold. The natives, in this Bay, cultivate rather extensively, and have possessions and cultivations also at Hokianga, and no doubt if the entrance were better known it would become an interesting and valuable place.

3rd. – Hokianga. – This beautiful harbour is situated on the West Coast of New Zealand, in latitude 35 deg. 32' South, and longitude 173 deg. 27' East, var. 14 deg. 46' East. The information, respecting this beautiful harbour and the adjacent country, and its capabilities for agriculture and commerce, is so well known, that it is scarcely requisite to say much respecting it. It is a bar harbour, however; and

the Pilot, Mr. John Martin, has a Flag Staff on the South Head, with a code of signals, of which the following is a copy, and if attended to by masters of vessels; they may enter with perfect safety. The following is his notice: –

This is to give notice to all Captains of ships and Vessels, bound to the River ilokianga in New Zealand, that there is a Flag Stall" erected on the South Head, under the directions of Mr. John Martin, the Pilot, with Signal Flags to signalize to any ship or vessel appearing oil' the heads; and the undermentioned Signals are to be attended to. Mr. Martin will be in attendance with his boat, also at the entrance of the Heads

FLAG No. 1 Blue Peter. – Keep to Sea; the bar is not fit to take.

. . No. 2 Red. – Take the bar; there is no danger.

. . No. 3 Blue with a White St. Andrew's Cross. Ebb tide, and the bar not fit to take.

. . No. 4. – White. – First Quarter flood.

It is necessary when these Flags are shown, that they should be answered from the ship, if understood, by a pendant or flag where best seen. The Flag Staff works on a pivot; and when a vessel is too far to the Southward for entering, the Flag Staff will droop to the Northward. If too far to the Northward; will droop to the Southward. Vessels to be particularly guided by the drooping of the Flag Staff; for whatever way the Flag Staff droops, the ship must keep that direction, and by no means take the bar Until the Flag Staff bears E. 3/4, N. per compass. "Time of high water, full, and change at the bar half-past 9 o'clock; A.M.

It is necessary however to remark, that a very important change has recently taken place in the entrance of this harbour. The Pilot affirms that the bar has shifted; others are of opinion that this is not the case, but that the best entrance, or the deepest water, has only recently been discovered; be this however as it may, the deepest water in crossing the bar will be found by bringing the South head of the harbour to bear E. by compass – then steer as the Pilot directs. It will, it is presumed, be quite satisfactory, in reply to the repeated questions proposed by Merchants and Captains of ships, relative to the safety with which vessels can enter the port of Hokianga, to state for general information that the ship Cornwall, whose tonnage, per register, is 672 tons, entered that harbour; took a complete cargo consisting of 213 spars suitable for the English market, and went out again with perfect safety. It may not be uninteresting to strangers to be informed, that vessels may find safe anchorage in any part of the river, after passing the South headland, a little distance to the extent of thirty miles. The ground generally occupied by vessels which visit Hokianga for timber is a little below a small island called Motili, which anchorage is about twenty-six miles from the entrance. There are, however} some respectable Merchants not far from the heads, who occasionally load vessels with that article, in which case, the anchorage ground is a little within, or to the Northward Of "One Tree Point." The number of Europeans in this district is about 170, including men, women, and children; the greatest part of whom are engaged in sawing timber and other mercantile pursuits. Very little attention is paid by them to the cultivation of the soil. In general the land on the banks of the river is

with but few exceptions, all purchased by Europeans. There are numerous fine fresh water streams emptying themselves into the main river, and the greatest portion of the richest and most valuable soil, in the numerous beautiful vallies, is still retained by the natives for purposes of cultivation.

4th. – Kiapara. – The North head of this harbour is in about 36 deg. 37' South, and 173 degrees 27 minutes East; variation of compass 14 degrees 46' East. There are three channels, but the middle is by far the best. It had generally been supposed down to 1836, that there was no channel sufficiently deep to admit a vessel into this magnificent river. This conclusion is now easily accounted for by the ascertained fact, that there are two large sand banks crossing the mouth of the harbour, extending beyond the headland on both sides, overlapping in the middle; and although one of these banks is at least three miles further out to sea than the other, they appear to be one continued shoal quite across. When the entrance is approached from any point of the compass, from the N.W. to the S.W., the distance from one headland to the other is about six miles, and the coast on both sides, with very few exceptions, consist of sand-hills. By attending to the following directions, vessels of any size may go in with the greatest safety; but it ought to be kept in mind that it is not considered safe to go into Kaipara harbour with an ebb tide, without a fair, steady strong breeze.

In sailing into the middle channel there is a a remarkable black patch, a few miles to the Southward of the entrance; on the North head-land there are three black patches, bring the black patch on the South side of the port, to bear E.N.E. by compass; then steer direct for it until the middle black

patch on the North shore bears N. by E. 1/2 E., steer for it. until clear of the North end of the inner sand bank – then shape your course for the inside point of the North head, off which good and safe anchorage may be found.

About 14 years ago this was a very populous district, and probably would have continued so until now, but for the restless and reckless ambition of the late warrior, Howji. The probable number of natives, in this extensive district, do not amount to more than seven or eight hundred, including men, women, and children. They are very anxious to secure respectable Europeans to settle amongst them, and are willing to sell their land to almost any extent. On the banks of the numerous branches and creeks of Kiapara, there are considerable tracts of land of the very richest quality, admirably adapted for agricultural purposes; – abounding with various kinds of valuable timber, for ship and house building, &c. At present there are not more than 6 or 7 Europeans, including a Wesleyan Missionary; all of whom live on the Wairoa branch. Vessels of 200 tons may go up the last-mentioned river 70 miles. The first vessel that discovered the entrance into this port was the schooner Fanny, Capt. Wing, on the 6th January, 1830, who in entering the harbour crossed the outer sand-bank, carrying three fathoms at high water, and worked out against a strong Westerly wind, by the middle channel.

Proceeding to the Southward, Manakau is the next harbour; the latitude of the North head of which is in 37 deg. S. The width of the entrance is about one mile. There are two channels, by both of which the author has entered,

and there is also an extensive bank, stretching a considerable distance out to sea, and which, as in the case of Kaipara, entirely shuts in the two channels when approached from the South-West. – -Strangers may distinguish this harbour by observing that the land to the Southward, for about thirty miles, is moderately high, and presents a ridge almost unbroken and straight. The beach also is straight and uninterrupted by any projecting point of land the whole distance between Manakau and Waikato harbour. To the Northward of Manakau, the coast presents an aspect rugged, uneven, and romantic, and is iron bound some considerable distance from the North Head, close to which there is a remarkable rock, called by the natives "Paratutai," and on the South side there is a singular rising ground with a flat or table land on its summit. By attending to the following directions, ships may enter this splendid harbour with perfect safety. In entering by the Northern channel, bring the Table Mount on the South Head to bear E.N.E.; run in until some rocks close to the North headland bears N.N.E.,then steer N.E. half E. up the harbour, in any part of which, for the distance of six or eight miles, good anchorage may be found. In taking the harbour by the channel to the South, steer N. by W., keeping the starboard shore on board till the rocks above referred to, called the "Nine Pins," on the North side bear W.S.W., and then haul up the harbour as before stated. The depth of water in the Northern channel, is five fathoms, and in the Southern seven. In 1836, there was no natives residing on the banks of this river, in consequence of wars which had taken place several years before, between the tribes to the Northward and the Waikato natives, but since an interchange of visits, which took place in 1836, the Waikato natives have returned to this highly valued and very interesting

district. High water, full and change, about 9 o'clock. There are nine rivers which empty themselves into it. On the banks of these rivers, with their numerous tributary streams, are beautiful and extensive valleys of the richest soil, capable of the production of every description, of European fruits and vegetables. The natives cultivate small patches here and there, with very little preparation of the soil, merely burning away the brush and underwood, and putting in the seed in small holes made with the point of a stick, and it is really astonishing to see the splendid crops of maize, potatoes, and other vegetables produced from so simple a culture, affording the best possible proof of the surprising fertility of the soil. Near the source of some of these rivers, the Cowdy timber is found in the greatest perfection, and in this delightful district are to be met with some of the most sublime and romantic scenery the eye of the admirer of the picturesque beauties of nature need desire – mountains with their snow-clad summits, whose sides are covered with gigantic trees – rivers with their innumerable cataracts and lakes, and rich and beautiful vallies, which may, ere long, be the peaceful and happy abode of a thriving peasantry composed of Europeans and natives. On the river Hokianga, the first of the Wesleyan Mission stations was erected, and is one of the most successful and best conducted that ever emanated from that Christian and patriotic body. In this district may be traced the progress of man from his savage to his civilized state; it is a common sight to see on the Saturday evening, thirty or forty canoes approaching mission station, each manned with from ten to thirty natives, nearly all clad in European costume, and quietly encamping on the beach, to await the approaching Sabbath, and their numbers frequently

amount to five or six hundred, attending the ordinances of religion, and conducting themselves with the strictest decorum; the change in their habits is not the less surprising. Those natives in the district, who as yet have not embraced Christianity, are generally found in their native costume, the mat or blanket; their provision grounds are cultivated in the most slovenly manner, and exceedingly dirty in habits, and their over-ruling passion is war. While the Christian native is seen betaking himself to those peaceful, useful, and profitable employments, which the wants of civilized life create; you may every day see the Christian native Chief of the highest rank on a saw-pit, with one of his people working at this laborious employment. On the banks of the Widinake, one of the tributaries of the Hokianga, is a small tribe of natives, who have resisted more obstinately than their neighbours the influence of the Missionaries; they have however of late been piqued in a competition in their agriculture with their Christian neighbours, and from their proximity, are daily improving in all their social and domestic habits.

The whole extent of the Hokianga, and the mouths of its tributary rivers, abound in fish; mackarel are taken in the main stream and tideway, in vast numbers; sometimes a long net, made of the native flax, is run across the mouth made fast to stakes previously driven into the beach at low water, and masses of fish are enclosed and killed. Not unfrequently shoals of fish are driven or straggle into the stream, and are intercepted in almost any quantity the natives please to take. They prepare them on hot stones, when they keep for months – they never attempt salting them – they have also a method of preserving the fish in

its fresh state – they remove the backbone, and then hang the fish in the sun for twelve or fourteen days, carefully protecting it during this operation from damp; it is then removed to their huts, to be smoke dried for four or five days, when it is fit for use, and will keep for years, and is much superior to red herrings.

Waikato is a river about 25 miles to the Southward of Manuko – it is a bar harbour, but vessels of 200 tons have been in for the purpose of trade, but no survey has yet been obtained of its entrance, &c. Flax, Pork, Maize, and Potatoes, are the principal commodities to be obtained from the natives. This is one of the most remarkable fresh water rivers yet known in New Zealand – it extends, inland, about 180 miles, at least canoes and boats can proceed to that distance from the entrance. The course of this river, from its outlet to the sea, for about 20 miles, is in a North-Easterly direction, gradually bending away to the South-East, about 80 miles from the sea the stream divides, when each branch takes different names; that which bears away to the Eastward, is called Horotiu, the other Waipa; besides these, there are various other divisions, which, if ultimately occupied by Europeans, will be found of great value and importance in conveying the produce to the main stream, and thence to the anchorage for shipment if required. There are on the banks of this river, and its numerous branches, extensive tracts of rich land, admirably adapted for agricultural purposes, and also for grazing cattle and sheep. – It ought however to be stated, that the tides do not extend more than twenty miles from the heads, hence European goods would have to be conveyed against the stream.

which, although not rapid, will always be attended with inconvenience.

The vegetation is altogether luxuriant. The fern grows from five to eight feet in height – the flax grows to nearly the same gigantic dimensions. An intelligent Englishman states – "I have walked for an hour through grass pasture, reaching to my knees on the banks of the Waikato – the grass looked coarse but very luxuriant." These navigable rivers, which at the distance of about 20 miles from the coast, divide into two or three separate branches, have already been explored to the distance of about 100 miles, without arriving at the extensive lake from which they are stated by the natives to have their source. Waikato harbour becomes therefore the proper depot for the produce of the fertile countries through which the rivers flow. But the state of the bar at the mouth of Waikato river, at low water, renders the approach difficult and dangerous. It has already, however, been pointed out, that the river called Awaroa, which falls into the Northern side of the Waikato, reaches to within less than a mile of the Monukou harbour, one of the safest of the island. The natives are in the constant practice of dragging their canoes from the one to the other, and from the level character of the intervening country, an improved communication can be opened. In this way Manukou would ultimately become the outlet for the produce of the banks of the several rivers of the Waikato country, and also of the magnificent inland lakes of Rotarura and Taupo; a tract of country including many hundred square miles of the richest territory of the Island. It will also be recollected that the isthmus dividing the Eastern from the Western side

of the Island, is situated between a bank of the Thames and Manukou, so that the produce of nearly a third of the Northern island may be conveyed by water to the Manukou, and from thence to the Thames, with a land carriage not exceeding three or four miles. Manukou, from its connexion with the Waikato country, and its local advantages, becomes, therefore, one of the most important districts of the Island, either in a military point of view, or for the prevention of war between the native tribes of the Nghopui to the North, and the Waikato to the South, which, at no distant period waged exterminating wars against each other; the occupation of the Manukou isthmus, would separate them and prevent mutual invasion. There is a Church Mission settlement, and several hundreds of Christian Natives, members of the Wesleyan Society, in the district of Waikato.

Waingaroa is a bar harbour, with not more than two fathoms on the bar at low water. The distance along shore from the Waikato is about twenty miles. The channel between the heads may be about half a mile wide; the expanse of the harbour about two miles. There are several deep bays in it. It is not known that any survey exists of this harbour. – It is thickly wooded on the north, and cultivated in patches on both sides by the natives. It is comparatively populous, there being about six hundred natives who have for years been making urgent applications for British settlers amongst them, as indeed have the whole Waikato people. There are several native teachers settled here, and have been eminently successful in instructing their heathen brethren. There are about five hundred Christian converts; the Wesleyan chapel there, contains about six hundred

hearers. There is a Wesleyan Missionary resident amongst them, the Rev. J. Wallis.

8th – Aotea harbour is distant about ten miles from Waingaroa; some very small streams fall into it – the entrance may be three-quarters of a mile broad. The channel is winding, and about two or three miles long; the expanse of the bay from eight to ten miles. It is not wooded at the entrance, but thickly so higher up; the beach is sandy; a good many natives reside in this bay; the principal chiefs, in an interview with the author, in May, 1836, repeated a former earnest application for British settlers. The natives have a number of small farms, perhaps including all, one hundred acres under cultivation.

Kawia harbour is situated about six miles south of Aotea; the entrance between the heads is not more than three-quarters of a mile. It is a bar harbour, but a good clear channel, there is a small bank about mid-channel, with deep water on both sides. The channel is not more than half-a-mile long; several small streams fall into it. There is a very powerful chief resident here, possessing as much influence as any one chief in New Zealand – he is most anxious for British settlers, and has long been so; war has raged for some time between the Waikato and the Taranakee people. Their southern neighbours, a few prisoners who had been starved out of their fort, and who had surrendered as slaves, were brought in while I was there. The Chief, who well knew the determined opposition of the Missionary doctrines to their wars, stated, and repeatedly and publicly pledged himself to give up the war, if Missionaries and Settlers would come amongst them. He complains that no white men come to his coun-

try, although willing to receive them, and although it is richer and also more populous than the Hokianga district; and he stated, that the Taranka country to the South, which he had conquered and depopulated, was still richer and fitter for cultivation than his own country. He described it as containing vast plains of rich land, and covered with fine pasture for sheep and cattle; but this rests entirely on native testimony, although there is no reason to doubt it. None of the Missionaries or Europeans, so far as is known, have visited it. This part of the Waikato country is extensively and thickly wooded, and small patches of the open country are culivated. – The Natives are numerous, perhaps one thousand in the bay. Many of them are Christians. – The Chief himself is not a Christian, but his brothers are. There are several Native Teachers from Hokianga settled here; and a large and commodious Chapel has been constructed. The resident Missionary is the Rev. J. Whitilry.

The river Mokau, situated about half-way between Kawia and Mount Egmont, is supposed to be the boundary between the Waikato and Taranakee Tribes. Whether this river, like the others on this side of the Island, forms a harbour or bay at its junction with the sea, is not known. Its situation only was pointed out to the Missionaries from an eminence in the Waikato country. The source, course, and extent of the river are equally unknown; but from the native account of the plains and pastures of this very extensive country, and, from what is already known of the plains and pastures, and extreme fertility of the rest of the Waikato country, there is no reason to question its fertility, and it becomes a matter of great importance to explore it.

The Taranako district forms the South Western extremity of the Northern Island, and the Northern Head of Cook's Straits. Mount Egmont, one of the loftiest mountains in the Island, is situated in it. It is supposed to extend from the Mokou river on the North to nearly the Wanganui River or Knowsley River, laid down in the maps of Cook's Straits. – There is a bay laid down in recent charts as Tarankee Bay, within Cook's Straits. It does not appear in Cook's chart. No vessel has been heard of as having entered it. Some well-informed Natives deny, and it is believed correctly, the existence of any such Bay, as is there delineated; nor is there known any safe harbour in that part of the coast. – Rutherford visited Taranaka with his tribe in one of their wanderings; he says, "the village of Taranaka stands by the sea-side, and the manners and customs of the inhabitants are the same as prevail in other parts of the islands. We remained six weeks, and after a journey homewards of six weeks more, we arrived at East Cape." The shores of Taranaka were also visited by Captain Lambert, in Her Majesty's Ship "Alligator," to obtain restoration Of the survivors of a ship's crew which were wrecked near Mount Egmont. He reached the coast on the 20th of September, 1834, at Moturoa, the Sugar Loaf Islands of Captain Cook, by which the Northern extremity of Cape Egremont is terminated. "They consist," says the journal of an officer recently published, "of a remarkable cluster of high conical rocks, running out to the Westward, of primitive formation, and partly clad in a mantle of luxuriant vegetation, wild flowers in beautiful variety, notwithstanding their exposure to wind and sea." The journal continues, "30th September, running along shore for Wainake, in from seven to ten fathoms water, the appearance of the coast is

such as sailors designate iron bound boldness and ruggedness, characterising it the whole way from Moturoa to beyond the place of our present destination; the grand outline being that of an extensive cape, the sweep of which is broken by a series of shallow bays, as these are parted from one another by huge promontories. The line of country is so level as almost to run parallel with the water line throughout its entire length, subject to numerous breaks in the solid rocks occasioned by its having been rent and torn in those places where the mountain streams had found themselves channels for the conveyance seaward of Egmont's tributary waters, and along the banks of which they have deposited as they went, a rich alluvial soil, thus affording growth to an endless variety of vegetable productions, which relieve the eye at these several fissures, with the sight of woods and groves, pleasing contrasts to a continuous wall of black and brown rock. At noon, the mountain bore N. by W., and we were distant about five miles from Waimati Pa, off which the water shoals suddenly from five to four and three fathoms, with an uneven rocky bottom.

Knowlesly Bay, as exhibited in some recent charts, has no existence, there is however a river called Whanganui about the same situation, and also two other small rivers between Whanganui and Port Nicholson, but from all the information that has been obtained from intelligent natives and Europeans, that not any of those rivers have depth of water enough at their entrance to admit a vessel of any size excepting boats.

Port Nicholson is one of the most splendid harbours yet known in New Zealand; the entrance is narrow but deep, and vessels of any size may work

in or out with any wind; it affords safe anchorage and complete shelter for any number of ships. The natives who own this place now live at Chatham's Islands, although it is very probable that the Entry Island or Kapiti tribe, will, in their absence, claim the land as theirs. It is stated by competent judges, that the land in the neighbourhood of Port Nicholson is excellent – abounds with timber, but that there is none of the far-famed Kouri to be found there, nor indeed in any part of New Zealand to the South of lat. 39 deg. 0'. There are two Islands on the N.E. side of Cook's Straits, generally well known to captains and traders from the Colony of New South Wales; the largest of which is known by the native name of Kapiti (Entry Island), the other Marna. There is safe anchorage inside both those Islands, but Kapiti is the general rendezvous for shipping.

From Port Nicholson to Cape Kidnappers very little appears to be known; little therelore can be said respecting it, excepting that the whole line of coast for the distance of 200 miles appears rugged, barren, and forbidding, until you come to Hawke's Bay where the coast presents a more inviting appearance, although still rugged and mountainous, respecting which there appears to be so little known, and from the want of harbours so little frequented, except by small craft for the purposes of trading with the natives. Hawke's Bay, situated about midway along this line of coast, between the 39th and 40th parallel of latitude, appears to have been surveyed and to give from 6 to 24 fathoms water. It appears from its position to be sheltered from the North and North East, but is an open bay and affords no shelter that can be depended on, except the wind blows off the land. Taoneroa, or

Poverty Bay is about 30 miles North of Hawke's Bay, and is supposed to have been the scene of Rutherford's capture, and subsequent captivity. – "The Bay," says Rutherford, "is in the form of a half moon, with a sandy beach round it, and at its head a fresh water river, having a bar across its mouth." He mentions also the height of the land, which forms its sides; all these particulars are noted by Captain Cook; the country is extensively wooded. The harbour of Tauranga in the Bay of Plenty, and a few leagues South of Mercury Bay, is resorted to by vessels for the purpose of trading in flax, pork, potatoes, and corn. It is a bar harbour, but safe for vessels of 100 tons burthen. Captain Cook visited this harbour.

Mercury Bay is situated on the Southern and Eastern side of the Peninsula, forming the Southern head of the Bay of Howaki or Thames. It has been surveyed repeatedly at the same time with the Thames. The entrance is very rocky, and it is of difficult ingress and egress. The water is from six to ten fathoms, and shoals in the narrows to four, three, and two. This district of the country is inhabited by the Natiparooa or Nutimaru tribes.

Captain Cook states that, "the best anchorage is in a sandy bay which lies just within the South head, in five and four fathoms. This place is very convenient both for wooding and watering, and in the river there is an immense quantity of oysters and other shell fish; but for a ship that wants to stop for any time, the best and safest place is in the river at the head of the bay. In several parts of the bay great quantities of iron sand are thrown upon the shore, brought down by every little rivulet of fresh water that finds its way from the interior."

The Thames or Houraki is, the greater part of it, an open roadstead. With a wind at East and N East, vessels of 130 tons, or thereby, have been worked into the narrows where they are sheltered; but with a foul wind there is great difficulty in getting out from the sand and mud banks in the channel. "The entrance," says a recent work, "to the frith of the Thames is rendered dangerous by small rocks; showing themselves a few feet above the surface of the water, and not readily distinguished at night. The Bay of Mahurangi, on the Western side of the frith is deep – has several rivers running into it – is studded with several small islands, and has a fine harbour, named by the natives of the place, Kaihu. This harbour, which is situated at the head of the bay, is protected from all winds and from the sea, and affords a secure anchorage, and is easy of access. The depth of water, to the distance of three miles, is sufficient for every description of ships. The Southern or longest, passage is formed by an island and the main, and is the safest and best, having in it 10 fathoms water.

The Northern or smallest passage is full of rocks; the passage narrow, and has only two-and-a-half fathoms depth of water. The tide flows ten feet at springs, and the time of high water is 10 o'clock, full and change. The several rivers, emptying themselves into the bay of Mahurangi, are navigable only for canoes and boats. A small harbour, fit for ordinary craft, is situated on the Northern side of the Island, forming the bay. From this harbour, across the entrance to a second well-sheltered harbour named Waitemata, is the narrow isthmus separating the bay of the Thames from the port of Manukou on the Western coast.

Wangari, North of the Thames, is an extensive harbour. It is protected from the North and Northeast by Bramhead. It was surveyed in 1834 by H.M.S. Buffalo. It is formed at the confluence of the river Wangari, with the sea and the soundings inside the bay, which is completely sheltered, vary from six to ten fathoms.

Tutukaka, a safe harbour for small vessels, with deep water and a bold shore.

Wangamuma, a good harbour, which till lately was considered as not having water enough to admit any other vessels but canoes or boats.

Wangarura is a very good harbour, in which the Buffalo, store ship took in a large cargo of spars. As no known survey has been made of the three last-named harbours, little can be said of them here, than merely to mention them as affording sufficient shelter for vessels of considerable burthen in passing along the coast.

The Bay of Islands, so named from the number of rocks with which it is studded, is a remarkably fine and capacious harbour, and affords shelter in all seasons and in all weathers to numbers of vessels. Its width, from head to head, is about eleven miles, affording sufficient room for vessels to beat in. There is deep water close in with the shore; a great number of European and American vessels touch at this harbour for supplies of fresh provisions and vegetables, and there have been at anchor in it at one time, as many as forty vessels, most of them upwards of three hundred tons. This bay has been surveyed with minuteness by two French ships, La Coquille, in 1824, and l'Astrolabe

in 1830, 2, and 3, "Its anchorages are various, namely, Tepuna, a roadstead on the Northern side of the Bay, opposite the Missionary station of that name, and the native village of Rangihoua. Paroa, a deep bay on the South side of the Bay of Islands, a snug and capacious harbour, affording shelter from all winds, and is the anchorage which the whaling vessels formerly made use of; it has seven or eight fathoms of water. The anchorages now generally used, are the bay of Kororareka and the river Kawakawa. The former is used by vessels wanting a slight refitting, or for procuring water and refreshments. The Kawakawa, when repairs to any extent are necessary, or the re-placing of any of the masts, being more secured, and having the stores near them, from which they procure the greater portion of their supplies, with the exception of provisions. Both these anchorage grounds possess sufficient water for ships of the greatest tonnage. The latitude of Kororareka beach is 35 deg. 15' 45" South longitude, 174 deg. 11' 45" East of Greenwich. High water, about 7h. 30m. full and change of the moon. There fall into this bay the rivers Kidi Kidi; in which, at the distance of about two miles from the mission station, are the magnificent falls of the Wani Wani, or "Waters of the Rainbow;" the Warioa, with its fall; the Manganui, the Pulconda, the Kawakawa, and many minor streams; their banks, and the interior of the country presenting one of the richest soils in the Island, yielding crops where cultivated, of every kind known in the country, in the greatest abundance.

The harbour of Wangaroa, lying 25 miles to the North East true of the Bay of Islands, is,beautiful, romantic, and spacious, capable of containing the

largest fleet, and affording good anchorage in from five to eleven fathoms, completely sheltered from the sea and all winds. No danger need be apprehended in running in, as there are no hidden obstacles; the shores steep and having sufficient water for any vessel within a few yards of them; and should the wind not be favourable for entering, you may with perfect safety anchor outside the heads, and wait for a slant, or for the sea breeze. In approaching this harbour from the sea, the entrance not being more than two hundred yards across it, is not readily distinguished by a stranger; but its position may be known by the Northernmost Island of the Cavelles, which lies three miles off it. (The Cavelles is a cluster of Islands stretching along the shore from Wangaroa to within four leagues of the Bay of Islands). The harbour has several small creeks and rivers emptying themselves into it, and fresh water may be procured almost any where on both sides. The latitude of a small bay about three miles from the entrance on the Eastern side is 35 deg. 2' South, longitude 173 deg. 42' 45" East of Greenwich; high water, full and change, at 8h. 15m.

North East of Wangaroa, and distant about 20 miles, is the Bay of Odou Odou, or Lauriston Bay, of which a survey has been obtained, from a French manuscript, dated 1769, communicated by M. Dupres. This is called by Capt. Cook, Doubtless Bay. The water shoals progressively and regularly from thirty-five, at the entrance, to five, and one and a-half at the head of the Bay, where there is a fine sandy beach with high land in the back ground. There are several small rivers falling into it.

There only remains to be noticed Sandv Bay.

situated between the North Cape and Knuckle Point. It is an open bay similar to Wharoa roadstead, situated directly opposite on the other side of the Island. The river Kangannee falls into the head of the bay, and forms a creek of some depth, and the soundings are marked on the chart as varying from 32 to 18; the tide rises 14 feet. The Island is here so narrow that from the Missionary station, Kawa, the breaking of the surf on both beaches can be distinctly heard.

SOUTH ISLAND, STEWART'S ISLAND, &C.

Entering Cook's Straits, from the West, the Southern side of the strait which forms the Northern side of the South Island, presents along the whole extent of the strait a succession of excellent harbours. There is

1. – Blind Bay.

2. – -Admiralty Bay. Both these bays are safe and capacious, and contain several small harbours.

3. – Port Hardy d'Urville's Island, and –

4. – Port Gore, both of which have been surveyed by Her Majesty's ship Alligator in 1834.

5. – Current Basin, connecting Blind Bay and Admiralty Bay, surveyed by the Astrolabe, Captain d'Urville, in 1827.

6. – Queen Charlotte's Sound. The entrance between the heads is about twenty-six miles, and narrows to about ten miles, after running in about

five miles. It extends inland about thirty miles. There are several Islands, one of them inhabited; there are ten or twelve British settlers, and a good many natives, perhaps 500.

7 – Cloudy Bay is about fifteen miles long, and from three to five broad; the land is high on the West side, and there is not much level ground between the high land and the shore. There is much fern, and a considerable quantity of fine timber. There are about thirty British settlers. As many as twenty or thirty whalers have put in together; numbers of the crews of these vessels desert their ships and escape into the interior until their departure, when they generally re-engage in other vessels. The English cultivate wheat, potatoes, onions, &c. They employ natives, who are very willing to labour. The natives are also much employed, chiefly in the boats of whalers, and sometimes, from their steadiness, as second or third mates. Cloudy Bay is reckoned the best fishing station for black whales on these coasts. They come in great numbers into the Bay, and into Cook's Straits; the boats and crews watching about the heads, and the vessels lying inside the Bay. Both sides of the Strait are in the possession of the Kapiti tribe, whose chief settlement, as already stated, is in Entry Island, and on the shores of

8. – Port Nicholson. It is a recent acquisition by them, that is, within the last twenty years. There is much valuable land along the shores of Cook's Straits, and particularly from the Eastern point, or Cape Campbell Southwards, towards Bank's Peninsula. The natives represent it as particularly well adapted, from being rich and level, and abounding in pasture for English husbandry and pasturage. Its vicinity to excellent

harbours, and its being in the direct track homewards of the Australian traders and whale ships, and the absence of native occupants point it out as an advantageous settlement.

9. – Passing along the East coast Southwards, the next harbour is that called by Captain Cook, Lookers-on Bay. The bay is formed by two fine rivers, which there How into the sea. The bay is formed by two fine rivers which there flow into the sea. The bay is not well sheltered, but is much resorted to for flax. There was a British settlement on the banks of one of the rivers, about fifteen miles inland; but it has been abandoned. One vessel of 120 tons was built at it. There are few natives, and the land round the harbour rises gently from the sea.

10. – Port Pegasus, North of Bank's Peninsula; there are two entrances, one to the North, and the other to the South extremity of an Island which forms a barrier against the sea. The bay runs up a couple of miles, and there are three or four rivers falling into it. There are few natives; the country is in general level, and rises gradually from the shore.

11. – The next harbour is that of Akeroa, a remarkably fine and safe harbour, situated in Banks's Peninsula, on the Eastern side of it, between the 43rd and 44th parallels of latitude. A copy has been obtained of an American survey which places this harbour in latitude 45 deg. 52', the soundings off the heads shoal from forty-five to thirty; between the heads from fifteen to twelve; and in the numerous smaller bays inside the harbour, from seven to five fathoms. This harbour is much frequented by American whaling vessels.

12. – Perackee, a very good harbour for vessels of moderate tonnage. It is twelve miles to the Southward of Ackeroa; there is a whaling establishment here, belonging to a Dutchman, named Ampleton. The soundings vary in the channel, between the heads, from five to three and a half fathoms.

13. – Port Cooper. This excellent harbour, forty miles to the Southward and Westward of Ackeroa, is capable of containing a great number of vessels; there is frequently as many as sixteen or twenty American and French whaling ships here at a time; the entrance is bold and free from dangers; the depth of water vary from twelve to eight fathoms. Between Port Cooper and Otago, for the distance of 120 miles; there is no indentation of the coast, not as much as a boat harbour, until you arrive at

14. – Whytaiko; which is only a small bar harbour capable of admitting canoes or boats, but much frequented by the natives on account of its neighbourhood to the lake, from which they obtain the green stone, out of which they make their battle axes. This lake overflows its banks at various seasons, and forms extensive lagoons, which are separated from the sea by a narrow strip of sandy beach. The natives cut small canals through this beach, and take great quantities of fish in them when attempting to find their way into the sea.

15. – The next bay is Moracka, which is sheltered from all winds but the South West; there is a fishery here, and the anchorage is right abreast of it, in five fathoms water – this place is surrounded by dense forests of large sized trees. On leaving this place, and bound for Otago, you must run off the

land for the space of twelve miles, as four miles from Moracka there is a reef of rocks runs out to sea the distance of nine miles – there is a passage inside it for boats. Twenty-five miles from Moracka is

16. – Wico Whyte, an open bay, with a small river of fresh water on the West side. There is a whaling establishment here. Twelve miles S. S. W. from this Bay is

17. – Otago, or Port Oxley, in latitude 45 deg. 43'. It is a bar harbour with three fathoms and a half on the bar at low water; the deepest water is on the larboard side of the entrance – keep close to the shore until you come opposite a large cave in the rocks, where you may either anchor or steer right over for the sheers, and drop your anchor abreast the settlement; there is about twelve Englishmen settled here and two grog shops. In the winter there generally six or eight American vessels lying in the harbour; their crews go out to the heads in their boats to get whales, which are very plentiful. About fourteen miles up this river, there is large beds of coal, of which the natives make not the least possible use. The banks of the river consist of very large savannas of grass, interspersed with forests of fine pine timber. Seventy miles S.W. by W. from Cape Saunders, which is fifteen miles South of Otago, is –

18. – Ticarva, a very good harbour, but of very narrow entrance, there is five fathoms in the channel. The entrance may be known by three small Islands, called the Brothers, which lie off it. Fifty miles from this harbour is the Bluff, an excellent harbour;

the only danger in the entrance is a small reef which runs off the starboard side – keep the larboard shore aboard, and when past the settlement, you may anchor in any part of the harbour. There is a whaling establishment here, about ten English settlers who have some cattle, and two grog-shops. This port is much frequented by American whaling vessels. In most charts there is a large bay laid down, called in the situation marked on the charts, as Knowlesly Bay. There is a small bar harbour called –

19. – Jacob's River, but which will admit only very small vessels. As the bar is continually changing, no certain marks can be given for running over. But in case a vessel should be forced from her anchors and drift on the bar, by steering for a large grove of trees that is on the starboard side of the river, she will clear the small reef that runs off the entrance.

20. – Fifteen miles to the N.W. of the West Cape, is Port Preservation, one of the finest harbours in New Zealand, but very little known. In coming from the Southward, you may either go inside or outside the small reef that lies off the entrance as the Seal Rock terminates it towards the land, and the Martial Rock towards the sea. There is twenty-two fathoms close to the Seal Rock, and seventy close to the Martial. In coming from the Northward, the entrance may be distinguished by the Martial Rock, which lies off it, and by a small Island called Mutton Bird Island, which lies on the starboard side. Run in boldly; there is twenty-seven fathoms, and no danger when a-breast of the first Island, inside either, steer over to the starboard side, and anchor abreast of the fishery, or you may

run fifty miles up the sound and anchor where you please. There is no hidden dangers, and lie landlocked. Seven miles from Port Preservation, is –

21 . – Port Chalky. This has been surveyed, and is a very good harbour, but of difficult entrance; it is not much frequented. Nineteen miles to the North of Chalky, is –

22. – Dusky Bay, which contains numbers of excellent harbours, the principal of which is Duck Cove; to sail into which, after making the reef, which is above water, and which you must leave on your starboard hand, steer for the passage between the two large Islands, and when through, haul round on the starboard tack, and steer for a large white rock, which lies off the main, and is very remarkable; and when about three cables lengths from it, drop your kedge, which will hold you, as you will be out of all force of tide. The shores of Stewart's Island, situated off the Southern head of the Island, and separated from it by Fovaux's Straits, forms a series of excellent bays and harbours. Southern Port has been accurately surveyed – the depth of water varies from two to fifteen fathoms.

23. – Port Adventure is another good harbour, but of difficult access. There are thirty or forty British settlers here, and they cultivate the usual crops with success; they have a great many goats. It is he longer an eligible whaling station; they seem to;have deserted it for Cloudy Bay and Cook's Straits. It is encompassed by great numbers of small islands and rocks. After leaving the Bluff, a W. S. W. course will carry you through Foreaurg's Straits clear of every thing. The line of coast, from Dusky Bay Northwards to Cape Fare-

well, the Western extremity of Cook's Straits, presents in general a bold and rocky shore. It has not been examined with sufficient minuteness to determine whether there are any safe and commodious harbours, but there are many inlets and creeks affording partial safety and shelter. Capt. Cook was obliged to keep well out to sea, while standing along this coast, and inferred that there was a scanty population, from observing fires on one or two occasions. It has recently been visited by several traders, who obtained readily the same supplies of provisions and flax, as at the other harbours. There is a great abundance of flax, in which the inhabitants, who are few and located only around the bays, trade very willingly..

SOIL, CLIMATE, AND NATURAL RESOURCES OF NEW ZEALAND.

SOIL, CLIMATE,

AND

NATURAL RESOURCES

OF

NEW ZEALAND.

The soil, climate, and natural resources of New Zealand, may be best estimated from the rapidity of vegetation – the vast number of rivers, and the robust and healthy appearance of its native productions. All kinds of European vegetables, fruits, and grain, grow with astonishing rapidity. Poultry of every description, and cattle of all kinds fatten and increase rapidly in numbers. The following

facts, however, it is presumed, will afford satisfactory proofs of the capabilities of the soil; the author, with his own hand, stuck in peach cuttings in the month of June, the size of a goose quill, the growth of which has been so rapid as to bear fruit in the space of eighteen months; he has also sown wheat in the middle of September, and reaped an excellent crop in the first week of January following. There is in this country, large tracts of the finest land, covered with the rankest vegetation, and of every variety of rich soils. The English grasses thrive well. The climate of New Zealand is decidedly temperate; neither exposed to scorching heats in summer, nor to blighting frosts in winter. It is very congenial to European constitutions; those who go there sickly, are soon restored to health; the healthy become robust, and the robust fat. North of the Thames snows are unknown, and frosts are off the ground by 9 o'clock in the morning. The spring and autumn are delightfully temperate, but subject to showers from the W.S.W. The seasons are as follow: – Spring commences in the middle of August, summer in December, autumn in March, and winter in July. Most of the trees and shrubs are evergreens, and vegetation is scarcely if ever suspended, except in the case of exotics. The native grasses flourish throughout the year, and when the fern has been destroyed, furnish an abundant supply of food for cattle; and, perhaps, there is no country in the world better supplied with water of the most excellent quality; indeed, it is not very easy to proceed in any direction, except on the ridge of hills, more than one mile, without having to cross a stream or rivulet of pure freshwater; and I am not aware that any one instance of a failure in the cultivation of wheat has occurred since the attention of Europeans and

natives were turned to the cultivation of that necessary article of supply.

The natural resources of New Zealand, which are immediately available to foreigners, are her forests of timber and her fields of flax, both of which articles are at present, and will doubtless become of still greater importance to the British nation, and her rising and interesting Colonies of Australia – of the former of these, there are considerable variety, some that are of excellent quality not only for house-building, but also for the construction of vessels, and masts, and spars for the navy.

The following short account of a few of the principal trees will be found correct: –

1. – The Kauri. (Dammari Australis, or Pinus Kauri.) This tree is of large size, measuring from 85 to 90 feet in height, and from thirty to thirty-six in circumference, and on account of its lightness is admirably adapted for the topmasts of the largest vessels, and for every purpose of housebuilding. Some spars of this species has been sold in London as high as £200 each.

Tanekaha(Podocarpus asplenifolius). This tree grows to the height of 45 feet, and is from eight to ten feet in circumference. It is used for all kinds of outside work, such as door posts and floors for verandahs, and is much sought after.

Puriri. (Vitex litteralis). This tree, from its excellent qualities, has been denominated the New Zealand oak. It grows from fifteen to thirty feet without a branch, and varies from twelve to twenty feet in circumference.

Towai, (Genus podocarpus), is a heavy, close-grained red wood, answering all the purposes of the New South Wales cedar, but much more durable and heavy. It is from twenty to thirty feet in height.

Pohutukaua. (Callistemon ellipticus). It receives an excellent polish, and is a handsome substitute for rose-wood. It is from sixteen to eighteen feet in height, and from four to five feet in diameter.

Hinau, (dicera dentata), is from sixty to seventy feet in height, and about twenty feet in circumference. The bark of this tree will dye an excellent black, or light brown, or puce colour.

Rata. (Taxus Rata). This is an excellent tree for ship-building, on account of the easiness with which knees may be cut from it. It is a close-grained red wood, and is from twenty to seventy feet in height, and from eighteen inches to seven feet in circumference.

The trade of New Zealand in timber alone, from its general adaptation to building purposes, must, at no distant period, prove a considerable source of revenue to that country.

CHARACTER OF THE NATIVES.

CHARACTER OF THE NATIVES.

It might reasonably be supposed, that considering the direct mercantile intercourse that has existed for a number of years between this Colony and New Zealand, as well as the number of natives

constantly arriving and residing among us for a time, a tolerably accurate estimation of the character of these intelligent people would have been formed; but it is no less a matter of surprise than of fact, that, notwithstanding these circumstances, a very imperfect knowledge of their real character very generally prevails, which has no doubt been the principal cause of retarding the attention that is but now beginning to be turned towards that country. This has arisen from several causes, but principally from the savage and unnatural character of cannibals that has been attached to them, since they were first known to us, by Capt. Cook's account of his reception amongst them, and which has been more than confirmed by the accounts of almost every subsequent visitor and writer on the subject, without a shade of those virtues they undoubtedly possess to relieve the dark main ground of that character. Consequently, the poor New Zealander has been too generally treated (both in his own country, and when he has come amongst us,) as a being to be contemplated with a degree of horror, or at best a few degrees above the condition of a beast of burthen, that might be made useful in adding to our conveniences and interests by his bodily labour, for which his natural superiority in strength and intellect better adapts him, than the miserable beings the natives of this country, who, even for such purposes, have been despised, as by nature and habit unfitted for all communication with civilized man. It is lamentable that this view of savages should be so generally entertained. It can only arise from an imperfect observation and study of the natural capabilities that frequently, like rough diamonds, lie buried under the more apparent mass of the worst feature of their character, which we are but too apt to assume the

whole to consist of, without examining the brighter particles that only occasionally discover themselves on the surface. It is true, the natives of this Colony may be said to be, both physically and mentally, the lowest link in the chain of human beings that has yet been discovered; but, at the same time, it cannot be denied that our policy towards them, or treatment of them, has not been calculated to discover what natural capabilities they may possess, or to improve what little we have discovered in turning it to their own advantage in any way the most practicable, of changing the habits of a natural savage; in fact, they are the victims of a preconceived notion of their incapability for improvement of any kind.

The same idea has, to a considerable extent, prevailed with regard to the New Zealanders; until the residence of the Missionaries and other respectable Europeans amongst them, for a number of years, on the most amicable terms and with perfect safety to their persons and property, have proved how much their character has been traduced; for, with ordinary civility and common honesty, which we owe to the inhabitants of every country we visit, but more especially to savages, in all our intercourse and dealings with them, I would ask those who have resided in New Zealand for any length of time, in what country where no civilized Government or laws exist, the persons and properties of strangers are more safe, or where the native laws regarding civil rights are more justly or strictly observed than in New Zealand? This view of the native character may at first appear strangely to contrast with the many melancholy results of their hostile collision with Europeans in their first intercourse with them, and even within the last few

years, during which a number of Europeans have lost their lives, and a considerable amount of property has been sacrificed, when the wild and unbridled passions of these men have been roused, but in almost every instance of this kind, the old adage of "one story being good until another is told," aptly applies, for on minute enquiry into the particulars of each parties' conduct on these occasions, it will almost invariably be found, that Europeans have been the first aggressors, either in practising the most wanton cruelty and premeditated deception, or in vioalating some of their most sacred laws, from ignorance or design, but most generally from a brutal gratification some men feel in totally disregarding the feelings of those they consider inferior to themselves. If the limits of this publication permitted, the truth of what has been stated, regarding the culpability of Europeans in instances where their lives have been sacrificed, might be amply supported by a statement of well-authenticated facts in every case that I am aware of, but the fact of a number of respectable Europeans engaged in business with the natives, and the whole body of Missionaries having lived amongst them for a number of years, and in the course of their transactions under every circumstance calculated to develope the native character on the most amicable terms, and with perfect safety, satisfactorily proves that with kind, honest, and judicious treatment, the New Zealanders would prove an useful auxiliary to the Colonization of his country by Europeans. It has, unfortunately for our future intercourse with the New Zealanders, happened that they have received their impressions of our general character, from a class of men whose conduct was not by any means calculated to give them a very favourable idea of it; and although their gen-

eral intelligence enables them to distinguish between good and bad characters, by the simple rule of their practice, it will no doubt be some time before their previous impressions will be so far removed as to have any considerable degree of confidence in their transactions with us. This kind of distrust is at present generally manifested by them in all their first transactions with strangers, but gradually disappears in a great degree on further intercourse, if the parties conduct in all his transactions and general demeanour merit it in their estimation; and once some degree of confidence is established on their part, they equally manifest an open confiding disposition; but anything calculated to dissipate this confidence, ought to be particularly guarded against by Europeans; for if once deceived, all future confidence is at an end, and there is probably nothing more calculated to rouse their passions or lead to insult, if not outrage, if within their power at any time.

The New Zealanders are an entelligent and industrious people, and every day becoming more so, as they become more acquainted with the arts of civilized life; they show a quickness in comprehending, and a laudable ambition in imitating, whatever they consider of utility amongst Europeans, for although they are generally strongly prejudiced in favour of their own old method of conducting their own affairs, they are sufficiently acute to perceive and adopt any improvement from us that tends more readily or satisfactorily to attain the same object, which shows how much they might be improved by a judicious direction of their attention to useful objects of industry. They are industrious, compared with their limited knowledge of profitable objects of employment, and they will no doubt,

rapidly improve in this respect, as the example and enterprise of Europeans instruct and directs them, and this has to a certain extent been already attained in the numerous articles of trade which now occupy a large portion of their time and attention, which formerly were not thought of, such as planting a surplus quantity of provisions for sale, cleaning flax, cutting timber, rearing pigs, &c., besides which, they pay constant attention to providing themselves with comfortable houses and enclosures, building canoes, fishing, curing fish in the proper seasons, and in planting and reaping the necessary provisions for themselves and families, all of which is as regularly attended to and form as much a part of the business of their lives as similar objects amongst ourselves. They also possess an equitable code of laws, regulating the conduct of every man towards his neighbour, as regards character, person, and property, which are now strictly observed and insisted upon; and although their decisions sometimes appear rather more severe, in proportion to the offence, than our ideas of justice would be willing to admit of, and partaking a little of might being right – upon the whole, they are well adapted to their simple circumstances, and bespeak a considerable degree of civilization amongst these people even in their original condition.

They have also a regular system of religion in which men, especially educated in all its mysteries, are appointed as priests for administering its rights and ceremonies, and inculcating its duties, which, although lamentably tinged with superstition, exercises a salutary control over their conduct, and greatly tends to preserve peace and good order in their society. They are not idolators, and would despise the folly of worshiping stocks and stones, but

may truly be said to worship the 'unknown God,' for although the various operations of nature, and works of divine Providence they daily see going on around them, impress them with the idea of a supreme Being as the first cause and regulator of all these events, their ideas of the nature of that Being or their own connection with Him, otherwise than as agent for the punishment of evil, or whether there is one or many of such beings, their ideas are very vague. They are generally strict in the observance of every duty connected with their religion, and apparently sincere in what they do believe, with the exception of the priests, who, although great sticklers for the most strict observance of every religious ceremony of their religion on all occasions in their power, (and they possess no small share,) so much depends on the general belief in the superstitious notions they inculcate, many of which the priests themselves must know are rank impositions on the credulity of less tutored flocks, such as commanding the winds and the waves at sea; curing all manners of diseases, many of which are of the most miraculous nature, such as extracting from the bodies of sick persons large sticks and stones, without the appearance of any wound, and even taking away the life of any individual, who may offend them by apparently no other means than the efficacy of their prayers alone. For all this they are well paid by their credulous countrymen, and by this means are generally enabled to live with greater ease and comfort than the rest of the tribe; they have consequently the greatest interest in keeping up a religious belief in all the superstitious nostrums they inculcate, whether they believe one iota of it themselves or not; and, indeed,their conduct on many occasions prove that they really do not. The Priests are also great prophets in foretelling future

events, which they pretend is communicated to them direct from some genii or spirit that is supposed to have taken them under their especial care; and, although some remarkable instances of correct conjectures sometimes occur, which affords them great cause of triumph; their prophecies sometimes also fail to be realized, and on which occasions the ingenuity and hypocrisy of the Priest shews itself in the exercises and subterfuges he is obliged to resort to, to account for it; and when entirely at a loss, throws the whole blame on his good protecting spirit, for deceiving him. By these means, the Priests exercise a great degree of control amongst the people, and which has a most injurious tendency to debase the minds of the young people, but when they arrive at the years of maturity, they seem to throw off some portion of this yoke. And, to make large allowances for the fallibility of their priests, however their laws and religion are so intimately connected, and the influence of the priests is so useful to the chiefs in maintaining good order and obedience, that the latter in all cases support the former in all their absurdities. However, the labours of the Missionaries and increasing intercourse with Europeans are happily tending to dissipate the baneful example of the native priests, and it is to be hoped that in a few years their occupation will be gone.

What has more than any other cause tended to foster the savage character of the New Zealanders, has been the system of war carried on by the different tribes against each other, which has not only been the means of keeping in a continual state of excitement and exercise of their worst passions, familiarising them from their youth upwards, with the most revolting scenes consequent on the hostile

meetings of such savages, but has in a great degree depopulated the country.

To the demoralizing influence of this passion may be traced every other bad feature in their character; but it is to be hoped as civilization progresses, and their attention is turned to more worthy pursuits, that this lamentable state of things will soon disappear. Indeed the progress of such a happy event is, even now, quite evident; for notwithstanding the more deadly means of the fire arms they now possess, with which Europeans have so abundantly supplied them, it is an undoubted fact, that there is not now so frequent and general wars in New Zealand as took place formerly, and there can be no doubt but that it is a mistaken notion, although very generally entertained, that the great quantity of arms and ammunition that they have obtained of late years have tended either to increase war, or that the results of the wars have been so disastrous, or even so much so as regards the loss of life as when they only possessed their old weapons of clubs and spears, except in some instances, at a time when fire arms were only partly introduced, which gave the parties possessing them an almost certain advantage over their enemies; but since they have been upon a footing of equality in this respect, it does not appear that one-fourth the number is now killed as there were when they came into closer contact and fought man to man, and hand to hand, as was formerly the case, when almost invariably the one party or the other were destroyed. They have little skill in useing fire arms, and seldom come into close combat with each other in their wars, but it rather resembles skirmishing, which is frequently kept up for months without much harm being done to either party; and

their wars now much more frequently terminate by the mediating influence of mutual friends, when peace is again restored. The writer would not have it supposed that he is the advocate of supplying them with any means of continuing these sanguinary habits; but he certainly considers the general introduction of fire arms a lesser evil than doing so partially, that would enable any one party to make an easy prey of another; indeed, he sincerely hopes to see the day, at no distant period, when the mild influence of industry will render them he longer an article of trade to be desired by the natives, or at all events only for their legitimate use, that of rightful protection. It is, even now, pleasing to perceive that this state of things is gradually acquiring the wished for ascendancy in the estimation of the natives themselves, and what has hitherto been the all engrossing passion of their lives, the object, end, and aim of their existance – to which the child is trained to look forward as the great object of his manhood, and to measure the estimation in which he would wish to be held, by the distinction he gained in avenging the wrongs of his forefathers, resenting insult and aggression, from whomsoever it might be offered, seems rather to have resulted from the circumstances of their situation, than any innate savage love of murder and depredation; for it is a singular fact, that in all their desperate conflicts there is scarcely any instance of unnecessary or refined cruelty, in depriving their enemies of life practised amongst them. They seem to perceive, clearly, the many evils that result from these harassing wars, one-half of which are occasioned by the bad conduct of single individuals, for whom, unfortunately, their laws do not sufficiently provide for individual punishment, but whose single crimes are charged

to the whole tribe to which they may belong; and once a single spark of this description ignites, the whole body is quickly inflamed, and satisfaction must be had of the aggrieving party, whether from the innocent or guilty. But for these and many other circumstances arising from the unsocial, independent, state in which the various tribes live, added to the natural jealousy of the balance of power amongst all small communities, there is little doubt but that they would rather be inclined to live in peace and turn their attention to more profitable industry, for they are far from being regardless of the improvement of their present condition or the acquisition of property, as the great anxiety they have hitherto manifested, to avail themselves to the utmost extent, of the few opportunities, the trading of Europeans amongst them sufficiently proves; and limited as that intercourse has been, and consequently small the degree of the attention it has yet attracted, compared to what in a few years may be expected, it has greatly tended to turn their attention to such pursuits; increased habits of industry, and in some proportion to diminish their warlike propensities, as well as leading to a greater intercourse, intimacy, and better feeling amongst the tribes generally, although it cannot be denied that there has not been wanting some wicked Europeans who, from motives of gain, or the gratification of more savage feelings than the natives themselves, have encouraged a contrary feeling, and in many instances succeeded but too well in their iniquitous designs, but we may now hope that such parties will not again be permitted to continue such conduct without meeting their merited punishment.

It would be difficult to account for the small num-

ber of native population, in proportion to the extent of New Zealand, possessing so favourable a climate, and producing such an abundance of food with the rudest cultivation, besides many natural resources, as, fish, fruits, and roots, all suitable for the food of man, but for our knowledge of these desolating wars. Melancholy proofs of which every where present themselves to the traveller, throughout the country; in the numerous deserted villages and fortifications that are to be met with – proving beyond doubt that the population of New Zealand has been much more numerous than it is at the present day. The New Zealanders are not a wandering race, but on the contrary, are generally much attached to the place of their birth, and seldom change their residence without being compelled by their enemies, and that has been the case with almost all the deserted settlements throughout the country, as fully corroborated by the natives themselves; for on inquiring into the history of any of these places, it will be found they have been the scene of a well contested or treacherous battle, and the invariable reply to your inquiries is, that the former inhabitants have been all, or in most part, killed, and the few who have escaped driven to some other part of the country.

The number of the native population has not been very accurately ascertained; but from the information of those who have visited most parts of the Islands, it cannot be estimated at more than from thirty to forty thousand souls. At least seven-eighths of the number inhabit the North Island, probably from the mildness of its climate, that of the middle and and South Islands being severe in winter; indeed it may be doubted if there are above three thousand souls on the middle Island at the present time, ex-

cept those from the Northern side of Cook's Straits, who occasionally pass over to the Middle Island in the whaling season. The males and females are in pretty equal proportion, there being rather a preponderance of the former. The natives live in tribes of from one hundred to one thousand in number, generally on the coast, for the convenience of fishing and trading with the shipping, and at considerable distances from each other, and are seldom on intimate terms. There are also a few large tribes residing in the interior, on the banks of the extensive Lakes that lay about the centre of the North Island, holding little intercourse with their neighbours on the Coast, except for the purposes of trade, once or twice a year. These inland tribes have not suffered so much, either from war or from the demoralizing influence of abandoned Europeans, and are the finest specimens of the natives in their original character, and who might be rapidly improved by judicious treatment, and made a useful class of men.

There is comparatively little intercourse between the different tribes on the coast, there being generally some jealousy, old grudge, or actual hostility existing that creates such a degree of distrust as to prevent it. Hence there is frequently some inconvenience felt in travelling in New Zealand, in procuring guides or the necessary assistance from one tribe to another, unless where they are on a friendly footing. However, they act with great liberality towards even their enemies, who may accompany an European in travelling, and except in very rare instances hold them harmless under such circumstances, and very rarely interfere with any single native, who visits them from another tribe, upon whatever terms they may be with his tribe at the time; and any breach of this rule among them, is

looked upon as an unpardonable offence; for which nothing will atone but a similar retaliation, and is frequently the cause of a war between the tribes in which it may happen. Their character abounds with many interesting traits, which the limits of this work do not permit of being touched upon. Interwoven with some of an opposite character, the most disgusting to Europeans, is that of cannibalism, which, although formerly very prevalent, and even now notorious, is greatly on the decline, and will no doubt entirely cease with their wars, with which alone it is connected, as it seems to have originated, and is only continued, under the influence of superstition, rather than any predilection for this unnatural practice.

Therefore, looking at their character as a whole, and making a debtor and creditor catalogue of their virtues and vices, I think the balance will be found in favour of the former, and that that balance will daily increase from a more extended intercourse with respectable Europeans, I think there cannot be doubt.

The natives are now extensively employed by Europeans in all their business, in clearing and cultivating land, sawing timber, as labourers in stores, and house servants. They are especially serviceable in the coast whaling trade, in which great numbers are employed in pulling boats. They are considered quite equal, if not superior, to Europeans. They very soon become expert sailors, and considerable numbers are also employed in the coasting crafts and whaling ships, both Colonial, English, and American, which touch upon the coast, and by whom their services are highly valued; but unfortunately do not always pay them adequately

in proportion so as to encourage them in this pursuit, or a very useful class of native sailors might he formed. New Zealand may, therefore, he said to possess at once many necessary requisites for successful colonization, in its soil and climate for agriculture, and in its situation, harbours, and ship-building timber for its commerce; but in none more so than its native population, in supplying the first requisite in every new Colony – labour; and in pursuing both the former objects, they are by their natural intelligence and strength of constitution, well calculated to assist the labours of the more skilful European co-occupants of their soil, and when duly initiated and accustomed to such pursuits, they will readily perceive the advantage of "Peace and Plenty" over their former mode of life, and in a few years we shall hear of no more wars, murders, cannibalism, or depredations on property. And it is to be, sincerely hoped that whatever British authority may be established in New Zealand, it will take a lively interest in establishing such a state of things, and in-the event of that being kept in view, there can be no doubt of the success of New Zealand as a British settlement, and that the natives will greatly prefer the mild protection of an equitable code of British laws, adapted to their present circumstances; than be subject to the vicissitudes of every trifling circumstance that may affect their peace as at present.

At the present moment when New Zealand is attracting so much attention, as an eligible field for colonization, it is a pleasing prospect to look forward to the time when those we now regard as the rudest savages shall become civilized, and amalgamated with, and working side by side in all the arts of civilized life, and on terms of the most per-

fect harmony with Europeans, who it is to be hoped will look upon the task as a pleasing one, to accomplish such a desirable result during their first intercourse with these people, and in which they will all feel interested, not only with a view to any profit that may be derived from their labour, but as a duty they owe to a less fortunate fellow-being. – Much depends on the manner in which the natives are treated in the first instance, for if our policy towards them should compel them to look upon us as their conquerors and enemies, the indomitable spirit of the New Zealander once roused, and driven back to its old channel, of an all absorbing desire of revenge, it will be no easy task to overcome it; and although we may delay the reparation he seeks, by overwhelming numbers and greater skill in warding off his blow, it will not be the less sure, or he will sacrifice his life in the attempt. On the contrary, if treated justly, and like a child for a little time fed with the milk of human kindness, and in all his intercourse with us, we teach him to feel the interest of a son towards a father, there is much to be expected from him, as from his natural abilities he is eminently calculated to merge into civilized life.

Is it suprising that what I have anticipated should not, in some degree, have already resulted from their previous intercouse with Europeans. To me it is more surprising that any sympathy should have existed between them, or that the greatest proportion should have been allowed by the natives to reside in their country at all, and for which I think the natives entitled to much credit for their forbearance towards them, when their noto-

riously selfish, dishonest, and brutal conduct is considered. These men arrive in New Zealand, where they have no right even to land, without the permission of the natives, where they are perfectly in their power, and entirely dependent upon them for accomplishing every object for which they visit the country. Under such circumstances, one would suppose their first business would be to conciliate the natives, or at least treat them with some degree of deference, as a matter of common justice. But what is the fact! They no sooner land, than they commence to abuse the natives by the worst of language – commit assaults upon their persons – violate their laws and customs – practise every kind of deception in their dealings, and in many instances openly rob them of their property, by inducing them to bring it on board their ships, where, when it was safely stowed in the hold, the poor native found he must be satisfied with whatever amount of property was offered him, however inadequate to the value of his produce in his estimation, or what he had positively agreed to have for it, or be beaten out of the vessel. What would any civilized nation think of strangers coming to their country, under the pretence of trading and acting in this manner? Would the laws of that country not at once be appealed to, and would not the offenders be liable to whatever penalty they incurred under these laws? Then, why not offending Europeans in New Zealand be treated in the same manner, and made justly liable for their nefarious actions to the laws of that country. Under such circumstances, I would ask if it is at all surprising that such Europeans should lose their lives or be deprived of their property in satisfaction for

such conduct by a people, who, amongst themselves hold life cheap, compared with submitting to insult or wrong; and it has always been a matter of surprise to me, that many more did not lose their lives through their own conduct, than the number of cases that have occurred. 2 However bad the conduct of the natives may have hitherto been towards Europeans, I hold it as no proof that respectable parties may not peaceably settle amongst them, but it is a direct proof to the contrary; for any man conducting himself with common propriety, will be almost sure of a good reception. I do not mean to sweep within the compass of my censures, every individual European on New Zealand, as many respectable parties have been connected with tiie trade for years past, and to whom I appeal for the truth of my statements; and their own experience bears me out, for in every in-

stance where such men have had occasion to reside or visit the natives in any part of New Zealand, they have had no reason to complain of their conduct.

2 I need only mention one instance in illustration of my statement, but could refer to many more: – A certain captain of a colonial vessel, I believe now residing in New Zealand, having sold the whole of his trade for cash at the Bay of Islands, found it impossible to procure any return cargo there. However, he touched at a certain port, where the natives had sufficient flax ready dressed to load his vessel, but he not having any article of trade that suited them in exchange, so confiding were the native, that they gave it him, (about sixty tons,) on the credit of his receipts; some of which are still held by the natives until his return from Sydney, as he had frequently traded with them before, and they had no doubt of his return. The only guarautee they stipulated for was, that, two or three of their number should proceed to Sydney to select the trade they wished in exchange, which was agreed to on the part of the captain; but on his arrival in Sydney, he turned them on shore, and would not either account for any portion of the flax, or give them a passage back. Some considerable time after, one of these same natives found his way back to his own place by some other vessel, and informed his countrymen of the result of his journey to Sydney, that the captain refused to give them anything for the flax. This same captain had the temerity to again enter that harbour, without any means or intention of paying his just debts. The natives at first civilly demanded their rights, according to his written engagements, and not until they found he had no intention of complying with them, did they proceed to manifest any hostile intentions; but their first impulse was, to take the vessel by force and all she contained. Another party wished to include the life of the captain, who had so grossly deceived them, but through the timely interference of one or two influential and kind-hearted chiefs, the captain and his vessel were allowed to depart, upon the faith of his secoud promise to return to pay these debts, without the loss of anything, not even the expence of a trifling present to his preservers, but which he has never thought proper to comply with, nor again ventured into that port since. Now could it have been said that it was unjust in those natives, under these circumstances, to have taken that vessel? Or if their law demanded the life of that captain, could it have been surprising, knowing the facts of the ease, had they done so? Had one of their own countrymen been guilty of such a fraud, the whole of his property, if not his life, would have paid the forfeit. And is it to be expected that they should make any exception in our favour, when our conduct is even more atrocious? And in order to shew that these natives were not likely to proceed to such extremities without cause, there has been several Europeans living amongst them since that time, with property under their charge, and numbers of vessels have visited the same port, and traded with the natives without having in any way been molested. Therefore, let every one that intends proceeding to New Zealand, be aware how he attempts to deceive the natives, for the consequences will, sooner or later, fall on his own shoulders, and ia a manner he may be little prepared for.

TITLES TO LAND &c.

TITLES TO LAND &c.

The validity of titles to land, in New Zealand, seems to be the most interesting, and the most important question proposed by the generality of persons contemplating a residence in that country.

In reply to which I would simply say, when purchases are properly made titles are as good in New Zealand as in any other part of the world; but in order to effect this, some knowledge of their language, existing laws, and customs respecting property, seems almost indispensably necessary; for many difficulties arises in treating with them on this subject, that do not occur in other transactions, principally from the circumstance of the land being generally considered the joint property of the tribe, and held as tenants in common – whereas every other discription of property is that of individuals, over which they have an entire controul, and may, individually, dispose of as they think proper, except in some instances, when they clearly perceive the advantage of their joint labour in completing any particular object when they mutually agree to share their labour and its produce. The New Zealanders claim for themselves, and re-

cognize in others to whom they may alieniate land, a distinct right of property in the soil. Their ideas, laws, and customs on this subject are clear and defined; and as to their rights to which, tbey are particularly tenacious, whether collectively, as a tribe, or individually, as members of that tribe. The whole of New Zealand is divided by known boundaries amongst the different tribes, including every small island adjoining the coast. Any encroachment, or trespass upon which, by occupation, cutting timber, or cultivation, by one tribe on the possessions of another, without permission first having been obtained, even for temporary purposes, would be considered an unpardonable offence, and followed by an immediate demand for satisfaction; and if that were denied it would in all probability, occasion war between the parties. A near approach to the feudal system of government prevails throughout New Zealand – every tribe being perfectly independent of the other, and each tribe composed of one principal chief, several minor or subordinate chiefs, the heads of families, younger branches of families, and slaves. The principal chief seems to have very little powor over the others, except what is conceded by courtesy, as in all matters of importance, and the interests of the tribe generally, such as the disposal of land, tbey seem to be nearly equal – even the female portion of the community claiming their right to be heard on such occasions; the principal chiefs authority being more of the nature of a casting vote in deciding any matter under decision by his advocacy, of which ever side of the question his opinion may incline. There is no real division of property amongst a tribe, except what each individual may actually occupy for his residence and cultivation, but this is a mere nominal and temporary division, as it ceases when they change their residence, or cease to cultivate that particular spot to which they claim an exclusive individual right while so occupiod, by transferring that right to some other part of their tribes possessions that is not previously so occupied, and may suit them better. It therefore clearly follows, that the idea is erroneous, though prevailing to some extext amongst strangers first arriving at New Zealand, and those who have not visited it, that any single chief has a right to sign away the birth-rights of other members of the tribe that may be equally interested in the land so sold with himself, and it is therefore very necessary that strangers who propose purchasing land at New Zealand should be very cautious in ascertaining the real proprietors, and obtaining their full consent to the purchase and conveyance from every individual interested; and in dealing with any single chief, they should be fully satisfied that the other portions of the tribe have consented to his selling some portion for his own exclusive benefit; or, if he be acting

for those interested, that tbey fully and clearly delegated their, authority to him to do so. They claim these their common rights in landed property, from hereditary descent or conquest; the fathers rights descending to the sons, apparently in equal proportions; and every individual except the slaves, who assist or may be present participating in every new acquisition of territory by conquest, become interested in that acquisition, and whose right descends to his family until re-conquered by some other tribe.

The only fair and equitable mode of purchasing land, appears to be, to let the natives decide amongst themselves who are and who are not interested in any portions they may be willing to dispose of, by holding a general meeting on the spot, for the purpose of fairly and freely discussing and canvassing the rights of each, as there are degrees of interest among them, according to their own rank, or that of those from whom they inherit it, or their standing in the tribe at the time it was acquired by conquest. Their great selfishness creates such an eagerness to participate in the price to be paid, that at first every one puts in a claim, until it is either reduced to its proper proportion, or from some account or another, disallowed by the rest. On these occasions some difficulty frequently arises in tracing events that confer or disallow interest in the total absence of any written language having hitherto existed amongst them, and of course are confined to the recollections of the present generations, and the oral history of their forefathers, handed down to them, in which they frequently display wonderfully retentive memories, and one generally well-instructed. When it has been decided by general consent, who are the parties entitled to the price – the extent, boundaries, and amount, either in goods or money, generally the former, with a portion of the latter, is then agreed upon between the buyer and the sellers, and the equitable distribution of it is made by themselves, and every party that has been allowed to have any claim, ought to sign the conveyance and the purport of doing so fully explained to them, in order to secure a good title, after which such a bargain will be respected by them, and I know of no instance where purchases have been thus fairly, and openly made, as regards all the parties, that they have ever attempted to repossess themselves of the property, and in proof of which the purchases of the original New Zealand Company, made many years ago, are still respected by the natives, although they complain, and I think justly, that the land has not been occupied or made any use of, which they seem to have expected when they sold it, and which they expect from all parties to whom they alienate their lands, as the settling of Europeans amongst them seems to be a principal inducement to making

these sales, and if ever the natives are dissatisfied with their former sales, it will principally arise from this absenteeism of the European proprietor – however it ought to be observed that there is no single individual in New Zealand but who is disposed to sell land, whether he has any title to it or not, if he thinks the party purchasing does not know to the contrary – his object being entirely his individual profit, and thus it has frequently occurred to many, from want of experience and due attention, that they have purchased from individuals having no real title to the land, or only from a portion of the rightful owners, and had again to pay either the real or other portion of claimants, before they could either obtain or retain quiet and peaceable possession, and which, I apprehend, will be the case in numerous instances, when titles come to be more narrowly investigated, and when they who have any just claim have not been fully satisfied, will not be backward in insisting on their full rights; but, as British law is about to be established, and the rights of the natives supported, the future purchaser of land, in New Zealand, if he takes care to secure an equitable title in the way above stated, leaves no reason to apprehend its ever being disputed.

FINIS.

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APPENDIX. OFFICIAL DOCUMENTS.

APPENDIX. OFFICIAL DOCUMENTS.

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APPENDIX.

OFFICIAL DOCUMENTS.

Copy of a DESPATCH from GOVERNOR SIR R. BOURKE, K.C.B., to LORD GLENELG, dated Government House, Sydney, 9th September, 1839.

MY LORD,

While awaiting the measure which your Lordship has recently announced an intention of resuming, for the Parliamentary regulation of the intercourse between British subjects and New Zealand, it may be proper to lay before His Majesty's Government whatever information I am able to procure upon this difficult question.

With this view, having lately had occasion, in consequence of a war breaking out between two tribes near the Bay of Islands, to request Capt. Hobson, commanding His Majesty's ship Rattlesnake, an experienced and judicious officer, to repair to New Zealand to afford to British subjects resident there, and to British shipping, such protection as might be required, I propose to him to make known to me, on his return, the opinions which his observation whilst there might lead him to form upon the pretent state of New Zealand, and the means of securing, with the least possible overt interference, the common interests of the natives, and of the British settled amongst them. This request has been complied with in a letter, of which a copy is transmitted, and which appears to me to contain suggestions of great

value. Capt. Hobson proposes the introduction of commercial establishments, confined within certain limits, upon a plan resembling the factories of the early trading companies resorting from Europe to India, and within which limits resident British subjects shall be placed under the protection and obligation of their own laws, – premising, as an inflexible condition, that nothing whatever he established on the part of the British Government, which is not cheerfully conceded on terms of clear mutual interest by the natives. The details of the proposed measure may be varied to suit whatever circumstances may arise; and this without giving any reasonable cause for jealousy on the part of the other states, or exciting alarm in the breasts of those philanthropists who so credibly and powerfully advocate the rights of the aborigines all over the world. It is neither possible nor desirable to put a stop to the growing intercourse between the English colonics in these seas and New Zealand, the extent of which will appear by the accompanying return. If the British resident were withdrawn, which I represented in a former despatch to be an alternative preferable to his being left there, without adopting some further measures to secure the professed objects of his appointment, the public might indeed be warned that the trade of New Zealand was to be carried on at their own hazard; but it would be difficult for His Majesty's or for this Government, to act for any length of time upon the stern principle of absolute non-interferance, if the lives or property of British subjects appeared to be in jeopardy. Any plan, therefore, by which intercourse may be sufficiently regulated, and usurpation, real or apparent, avoided, – -providing at the same time for its support without drawing upon the revenues of this Colony, – is well worthy of serious consideration. I confess that I am unable to submit a better arrangement than this, which Capt. Hobson has proposed, and therefore beg to recommend his letter to your Lordship's attention.

With Capt. Hobson's report I have the honour to transmit the copy of a letter received by his hands from the resident, Mr. Busby, describing, at considerable length, the present condition and character of the New Zealanders, and the manner in which they are affected by the intercourse of Europeans. This letter contains suggestions for the future proceedings of Great Britain towards New Zealand, which are not without value, but which would probably be found difficult to reconcile with some of the peculiar circumstances affecting the matter under consideration. Mr. Busby recommends that Great Britain should undertake the protection of New Zealand, and for this purpose should maintain British troops on the islands; but though this undertaking should be commenced with the greatest good faith and purest intentions, it would be open to misrepresentation, and in a remote country,

where it is hardly to be expected the law would be very efficiently administered, it might be eventually perverted by British subjects to selfish purposes.

A part of Mr. Busby's letter taken up in the description of the native war to which I have alluded, and which alarmed him for the safety of the European inhabitants, I am happy to be able to show, by the copy of a letter since received from him, that peace is now restored. Your Lordship will perceive with pleasure, that it has (I believe for the first time in New Zealand) been effected without a loss of human life, by way of retaliation, or as the price of accommodation, – a piece of land being accepted in compensation of an aggression, which had caused the death of a woman belonging to one of the belligerent tribes.

I take the present opportunity of stating, that the Baron de Thierry, who was mentioned in your Lordship's despatch of the 26th of August last, is at present in Sydney, where he has arrived on his way to New Zealand, to seek possession of a large tract of property which he claims to have acquired by purchase. He has complained to me that the spars for the use of the navy, to be furnished to His Majesty's ship Buffalo, now proceeding from hence to New Zealand, are cut on his land; but I have declined interfering in any way in the matter. Nor have I considered it my duty to interpose any obstacle to his proceeding to New Zealand, of which country he claims to be a chief by right of his purchases. He denies all intention of prejudicing the interests of Great Britain, and professes a reliance upon moral influence alone for the authority he expects to acquire among the New Zealanders.

I have, &c.
(Signed) RICHARD BOURKE.

ENCLOSURE (A.)

LETTER from CAPTAIN W. HOBSON, R. N., to His Excellency LIEUTENANT-GENERAL SIR RICHARD BOURKE, K.C.B., Governor.

His Majesty's Ship Rattlesnake,
Port Jackson, Aug.8, 1837.

SIR,

I have the honour to acquaint you that His Majesty's ship Rattlesnake, in her late cruise, visited the Bay of Islands,

and several other ports on the northern coast of New Zealand, and in Cook's Straits.

It affords me great satisfaction to assure your Excellency, that the European settlers at the Bay of Islands repose the most entire confidence in the friendly disposition of the natives, notwithstanding the existence of war between the two tribes settled in their immediate neighbourhood. I am aware that the British resident is not free from apprehension; but from the intercourse I maintained with the Missionaries, and all other classes of British Subjects, I am free to assert that he stands alone in the opinion he has formed.

The war between the Bay of Islands' tribes under Pomare and Titore is the only one now prevailing in New Zealand, notwithstanding that many of the auxiliaries enlisted under the rival chiefs have come from considerable distances in every direction; but this does not appear to disturb the harmony of those who remain behind in their Pahs, although the nearest neighbours are engaged on opposite sides.

Reverting to the position in which our countrymen stand in regard to these factions, it is a remarkable fact, and worthy of imitation by more civilized powers, that the hostile forces have repeatedly passed through the very inclosurcs of the missionaries at Pahia, on their way to and from the field of battle, without molesting a single article belonging to the whites; and in one instance the two parties, by mutual consent, removed the scene of action to a greater distance from our settlements, lest a white man should by accident be injured. How long this feeling may continue it is impossible to say. I only know that those who have everything at stake, – their lives, their families, and their properties, – entertain not the slightest apprehension of any change.

I heartily wish I could report as favourably of their situation with respect to the abandoned ruffians from our own country, who have from time to time found their way to the Bay of Islands. From these indeed there is much to be dreaded. An instance of a most daring burglary occurred in my absence on the east coast, in which a British settler was extensively robbed, his life attempted, and the females of his family most brutally treated. I am happy to say, two out of four of the perpetrators of this outrage have been apprehended and banished by the natives, and were brought to Sydney in this ship. I sincerely hope the 9th of George IV. will be found applicable to their case, and that they may be made an example to many of a similar character who remain behind to disgrace our nation even in the eyes of savages.

In our cruise on the eastern coasts, I visited Puriri and Waikaitewa, on the Thames, and the island of Waihike at its

entrance, and Cloudy Bay in Cook's Straits. I intended to have called at Entry Island and Mana, where a Mr. Bell has settled; but the boisterous state of the weather prevented my anchoring. I stood close in to both islands, and feel convinced that the very appearance of a man-of-war in that quarter will have considerable weight, from the terror in which we are held by the natives, in consequence of the severe chastisement inflicted on them by the Alligator, and the detachment of H. M. 50th regiment in 1835; and, for the same reason, I have no doubt but our visit to the Thames will also be productive of benefit, for there the natives are in a more primitive state than at the Uay of Islands, and when engaged in war, have not always been so scrupulous about the property of British subjects, although in no instance has any violence been done to their persons. I will suggest to the officer who may succeed me on this station, to open a further intercourse with the natives on the Thames, which will soon place our settlers there in a state of as perfect security as in any part of the island.

On the northern shores of Cook's Straits a most powerful tribe of natives have collected under the celebrated warrior Ruperiha, hut it does not appear they have in view any warlike object; indeed, if they had, our countrymen, with the exception of Mr. Bell and his small party on the islands, would have little to fear, for the only other places to which the whites resort are Cloudy Bay and Queen Charlotte's Sound, where they are so numerous, and confederated by their pursuits, (which are exclusively whale-fishing,) that no tribe of natives whatsoever dare molest them. The only danger they have to apprehend is from themselves, and that is in a great measure neutralized by the counteracting influence of their own reckless and desperate character.

The quarrel between the Bay of Islands' tribes is supposed by the best informed to be in a fair train for adjustment. When we sailed, the loss sustained by the conflicting parties was more nearly on a par, not from the numbers slain, but from the possession acquired by the Ngapulies (as Titore's people are called) of the dead body of a chief of the opposite party, on whom atonment was made for an insult that was offered to two of their chiefs who had been killed in battle, and found by the enemy. There are other causes too, that, it is hoped, will lead to pacification. Nene, a powerful chief from Hokianga, who has embraced Christianity, has brought his tribe across the island with the full determination to compel the contending parties to make peace; and as he is known to possess both courage and power to turn the scale on either side, his mediation is not likely to be slighted. The scarcity of provisions and the necessity of agriculture will also operate favourably towards the same object. Ou the other

hand, the excellent chief Titore is dead, and his people are under the direction of a perfect savage who thirsts for war; and Pomare, the head of the opposite tribe, is likewise a violent fellow, who claims a right to the land of Korararica, which was once his, but was ceded to Titore at the peace of 1830. The gentlemen of the mission maintain a constant intercourse between the parties, and are received by both with the greatest respect. Their efforts to promote peace are unremitting, and of late they have feit confident ot eventual success.

In reporting to your Excellency my views and observations on the social condition of the New Zcalanders, I cannot repress a feeling of deep regret that so fine and intelligent a race of human beings should, in the present state of general civilization, be found in barbarism; for there is not on earth a people more susceptible of high intellectual attainments, or more capable of becoming a useful and industrious race under a wise government. At present, notwithstanding their formal declaration of independence, they have not, in fact, any government whatsoever; nor could a meeting of the chiefs who profess to be the heads of the united tribes take place at any time without danger of bloodshed. How, then, can it be expected that laws will be framed for the dispensation of justice, or the preservation of peace and good order, even if native judgment were sufficiently matured, to enact such laws, or to carry them into execution?

Whilst the disunited state of the tribes, and their jealousy of each other, render it impossible to enact or execute laws, it also lays them open to the designs of turbulent individuals, and destroys all confidence in the permanency of the peace.

That their wars which are fast depopulating their beautiful country, may sooner or later be extended to our countrymen, is a circumstance that it would be the height of rashness to doubt; and as British subjects are fast accumulating, and are every day acquiring considerable possessions of land, it must become an object of deep solicitude with the British Government to devise some practicable mode of protecting them from violence, and of restraining them from aggression.

Heretofore the great and powerful influence of the missionaries has done much to check the natural turbulance of the native population; but the dissolute conduct of the lower orders of our countrymen not only tends to diminish that holy influence, but to provoke the resentment of the natives, which, if once excited, would produce the most disastrous consequences. It becomes, therefore, a solemn duty, both in justice to the better classes of our fellow subjects and to the natives themselves, to apply a remedy for the growing evil.

It has occurred to me, that if factories were established at the Bay of Islands, at Cloudy Bay and Hokianga, and in other

places, as the occupation by the British subjects proceeds, a sufficient restraint could be constitutionally imposed on the licentious whites, without exciting the jealousy of the New Zealanders, or of any other power.

I will not prcsnmo to enter too deeply into the details of such a measure, but beg simply to suggest, that sections of land be purchased, inclosed, and placed within the influence of British jurisdiction, as dependencies of this colony.

The heads of factories should be magistrates, and the chief factor should, in addition, be accredited to the united chiefs of Now Zealand as a political agent and consul. All communications with the British Government should take place through the chief factor, with whom alone the local factors should correspond.

AH British subjects should he required to register themselves and their landed property at the factories.

Two or more of the most respectable British residents nearest to each station should hold commissions of the peace to assist the factors.

Prisons should be constructed within the factories, and legally proclaimed in the colony.

A treaty should be concluded with the New Zealand chiefs for the recognition of the British factories, and the protection of British subjects and property.

To meet the expenses which the establishment of a system of factories upon the principlo I have mentioned would necessarily entail, funds might be obtained from a variety of sources, such a small fee on the registration of the purchase of land from the natives; on the entry and clearance of British shipping, and a small per-centage on goods and produce imported and exported. The great security which would result from this system would, it is conceived, readily dispose the British subjects resident in New Zealand to conform to such an impost.

I am aware of the necessity of a British Act of Parliament to give effect to the whole system, to impart to the colonial courts of New South Wales, more perfectly than at present, jurisdiction over offences committed by British subjects in New Zealand, and to the Colonial Legislature to enact such laws in respect thereof as the more complete local knowledgo of the country might from time to time suggest.

The benefit that may be supposed to result from the establishment of factories in New Zealand is not confined to the mere legal protection they are calculated to afford; but we may hope they will be the means of introducing amongst the natives a system of civil government which may hereafter be adopted and enlarged upon. Nor is it to be overlooked, that in times of

intestine war they will afford a safe retreat to our fellow countrymen, who will become powerful by concentration.

I trust the imperfection of the foregoing details may not be allowed to militate against the measures I have the honour to suggest; but if the principle be approved, that it may be modified and arranged by abler hands, so as to adapt it to the exigency of the case.

I have, &c.
(Signed) W. HOBSON, Captain:

ENCLOSURE (C.)

Letter from JAMES BUSBY, ESQ., British Resident at New Zealand, to the Honourable the Colonial Secretary of New South Wales.

British Residency, Bay of Islands,
16th June, 1837.

SIR,

I have the honour to acknowledge the receipt of your dispatch of the 16th ultimo, which was delivered to me on the 27th of the same month, by Captain Hobson, of His Majesty's ship Rattlesnake.

By my letter of the 4th ultimo, No. 111, His Excellency Sir Richard Bourke would perceive that the fears I had formerly expressed, that war was about to break out in this immediate neighbourhood, had been realized; but that, contrary to all expectation, the conduct of the natives towards the British settlers had been, on the whole, most exemplary. I am happy to add, that it so continued up to the arrival of the Rattlesnake.

Under circumstances so favourable, an attempt was made by Captain Hobson, accompanied by a party of the missionaries and myself, to mediate between the contending parties, but without effect. The chiefs on Pomare's side, whom I formerly represented as being unfriendly to Pomare's procedure, although in a manner constrained to take part with him, were most favourable to the proposition, and requested that one of two persons whom they named, of the opposite party, should meet them to adjust the preliminaries; but Pomare himself turned a deaf ear to every argument that could be urged.

The overtures of the well-disposed chiefs were nevertheless delivered, but they were received by the Ngapulies in the most

unfriendly spirit; and, on its being too evident that all attempts at mediation were fruitless, Captain Hobson concluded by cautioning them as to their conduct to British subjects, assuring them that if any violence should be offered by either party to these, it would then become his duty to take satisfaction, and that he would do it effectually.

Since the date of my last despatch, the war canoes have been almost every day in motion, but there have been only two encounters of the parties worthy of notice. In these two affairs about thirty persons were killed. The Ngapulies have lost another chief of the first rank, and in other respects have been the severest sufferers from the commencement of hostilities. The injury for which they took up arms has consequently been aggravated by every attempt to obtain reparation.

A fact has also come to my knowledge, which gives a greater colour of truth to Pomare's original accusation, than any circumstance of which I was previously aware, namely, that the woman of whom it was alleged that she had been murdered and eaten on being landed from the ship, had formerly been the wife of the person who was charged with her murder. It was in former times a very common case for a chief to put to death any of his wives who had deserted or been unfaithful to him.

But whatever may have been the real circumstances or motives which originated the present war, there is not the least probability of its being speedily brought to a termination. Pomare's party appear confident in the strength of their position, and the Ngapulies are evidently actuated by the most irritated and vindictive feelings; and there seems no reason to doubt that they will speedily be joined by the powerful tribe of Rarawa, from the more northerly parts of the island.

Under those circumstances, although the visit of His Majesty's ship Rattlesnake at this juncture is peculiarly important, and making it appear to the natives that a vigilant guardianship is maintained over His Majesty's subjects who are settled here, and that assistance is never at a great distance, should it be required; yet it is impossible to look to the continuance of this contest without the most serious alarm.

Titore, who was the most influential of the Ngapulie chiefs in preserving order in the town Kororakia, where the natives and British are mingled in the greatest numbers, died a few days ago; and in several instances already I have heard that the loss of his influence has been felt to the detriment of the British inhabitants. Whatever influence the other chiefs possess, will also be weakened when their provisions become exhausted; and as little or no cultivation will be attempted while things remain in their present position, it may naturally be expected that the

natives will become reckless in proportion to their want of the means of subsistence.

Under these circumstances, his Excellency will be propared for my entire concurrence in his opinion, that any additional expenditure with the view of giving increased efficiency to my office, as at present constituted, would be altogether fruitless; nor would the Act of Parliament to which his Excellency refers, if the powers it was intended to impart should be limited to the controlling of British subjects, be of much service, in the state to which the affairs of this country have arrived. What is wanted is a paramount authority, supported by a force adequate to secure the efficiency of its measures.

Without the establishment of such an authority by some civilized state, I cannot, after a full consideration of every circumstance connected with the actual condition of this people, see the least prospect of any permanent peace being established amongst them whilst there remains a stronger man to murder his weaker neighbour. There are few persons so insignificant as not to have it in their power, at any time, to plunge the country into war. The crime of an individual involves his most distant connexions, as each of them is a legitimate object of retaliation to the connexions of the injured party. It is in vain to represent to them that the criminal alone should suffer; their answer is ready, and it is porfectly consistent with the dictates of natural justice, namely, that his tribe will not surrender him to suffer for his crime, and by standing up in his defence they have become participators in it; while, on the other hand, provided the criminal be not a slave, his connexions are never without a grievance, more or less ancient, which they bring forward as a justification of his crime. Thus, by every attempt to administer the law of retaliation – the rude justice of nature – the breach is made wider. New deaths involve more distant connexions. Tribe after tribe becomes a party to the contest; and peace, or rather an intermission of murders, can only be procured when one of the parties becomes too weak to continue the contest, or when the loss on both sides happens to be so nearly balanced, that neither party has an advantage over the other.

In this way has the depopulation of the country been going on, till district after district has become void of its inhabitants, and the population is even now but a remnant of what it was in the memory of some European residents.

It would, in relation to the subject on which I iniend to enter in this despatch, be an interesting and important question, did there exist means of bringing it to a satisfactory solution – how far this depopulation of the country, which has at least been

rapid in proportion to the increase of its intercourse with the whites, was originated by the latter, and may justly be chargeable to them. My own opinion is, that all the apparent causes which are in operation, are quite inadequato to account for the rapid disappearance of the people.

The introduction of fire arms is alleged as one cause, but there seems good reason to doubt whether their wars were less sanguinary before fire-arms were introduced. The use of intoxicating liquors and tobacco are less questionable evils; and though their direct influence cannot, I think, be stated as at all remarkable, they are, in all probability, the original causes of diseases with which their immediate connexion is not apparent.

Venereal diseases are another means of undermining the constitution of the multitudes who, in one shape or other, are subjected to them: and besides these resources of disease and death, the abuse of the females who are sent by their masters or relations on board ships, and the murdor of the fruits of this intercourse, which is believed by those likely to be best informed to be of frequent occurrence, are undoubtedly powerful checks to increase, and ought to be largely allowed for in estimating the causes which are in operation for the depopulation of the country. But, on the othor hand, it must not be lost sight of that the mortality has not been confined to those who have been the victims of violence, or who have been exposed to the effects of vices or diseases of foreign origin. Disease and death prevail even amongst those natives who, by their adherence to the missionaries, have received only benefits from English connexion; and evon the very children who are reared under the care of the missionaries, are swept off in a ratio which promises, at no very distant period, to leave the country destitute of a single aboriginal inhabitant.

The natives are perfectly sensible of this decrease; and when they contrast their own condition with that of the English families, amongst whom the marriages have been prolific in a very extraordinary degree of a most healthy progeny, they conclude that the God of the English is removing the aboriginal inhabitants to make room for them; and it appears to me that this impression has produced amongst them a very general recklessness and indifference to life.

The foregoing picture of the actual condition of the New Zealandcrs will not, I think, be considered as overcharged by any one who has an intimate acquaintance with the state of their country. I have, as impartially as I could, stated both sides of the question; I do not concur in opinion with those who charge altogether upon their intercourse with British subjects, directly or indirectly, the present miserable condition of the New Zea-

landers; but I think the most favourable view of that intercourso from its origin, and independently of the distressing evils which I have pointed out in former despatches, as just beginning to manifest themselves, as the consequence of the sale of their lands to British subjects, will prove that the New Zealanders have at least some claim of justice upon the protection of the British Government; and certainly a very strong claim, not to be overlooked in those measures which are dictated by the present humane policy of the British Government towards the aboriginal inhabitants of countries where British settlements are established.

Unless the country should be taken under the official protection of Great Britain, or some other foreign power should interfere, the natives will go on destroying each other, and the British will continue to suffer the accumulating evils of a permanent anarchy. Nor can the latter make common cause against the natives with any prospect of promoting general security. The nature of their pursuits, the distance of their habitations; and above all, the character of the majority of them, would render any combination for their general defence at once unworthy of reliance, and incompatible with the objects of their settlement in the country.

I have in former communications detailed so fully the relative situation of the British and the natives, and the frequent causes of contention existing between them, that I will forbear to enter upon the subject in the present despatch. For the same reason, I will avoid any reference to the importance of British interests, and the necessity for their protection, irrespective of the condition either of the natives, or of the British who have actually settled in the country. But I will proceed at once to submit the outline of a plan of government, which, I humbly venture to think, would give as great a degree of peace and security to all classes of persons in this country, as is enjoyed by the inhabitants of the majority even of civilized states.

The plan which I would now more fully submit, was suggested in my despatch of 26th January, 1836, No. 85. It is founded upon the principle of a protecting state, administering in chief the affairs of another state in trust for the inhabitants, as sanctioned by the treaty of Paris, in the instance of Great Britain and the Ionian Islands, and as applied, I believe, in various instances, on the borders of our Indian possessions.

All my experience, subsequent to the date of that suggestion, has strengthened my belief that the principle is peculiarly applicable to this country; and that the details could be arranged with a degree both of efficiency and economy which at first sight might appear far from probable.

The chiefs who were parties to the Article of Confederation and Declaration of Independence in October, 1835, together with those who have subsequently adhered to it, include, with very few exceptions, the whole of the chiefs of influence in the northern parts of the island, and the adhesion of the remainder could at any time be procured.

Whatever acts approaching to act of sovereignty or government have been exercised in the country, have been exercised by these chiefs in their individual capacity as relates to their own people, and in their collective capacity as relates to their negotiations with the British Government, the only Government with which the chiefs or people of New Zealand have had any relations of a diplomatic character. Their flag has also been formally recognised by the British Government as the flag of an independent state.

The articles of Confederation having centralized the powers of sovereignty exercised both de jure and de facto by the several chiefs, and having established and declared the basis of a constitution of government founded upon the union of those powers, I cannot, I think, greatly err in assuming that the congress of chiefs, the depository of the powers of the state as declared by its constitution, is competent to become a party to a treaty with a foreign power, and to avail itself of foreign assistance in reducing the country under its authority to order; and this principle being once admitted, all difficulty appears to me to vanish.

The appearance of a detachment of British troops, in fulfilment of a treaty with the confederated chiefs, would not be a taking possession of the country, but a means of strengthening the hands of its native government; while, in return for this subsidiary force, it might be stipulated that the British settlers should be subject to the operation of no laws but such as should emanate from or be consented to by their own Government, and exercised under the control and directions of its officers; and that the revenues of the country, should be made applicable, in the first instance, to the support of a civil government, to be established by the protecting power, and the maintenance of the quota of troops stipulated for by the treaty.

In theory and ostensibility, the government would be that of the confederated chiefs, but in reality it must necessarily be that of the protecting power. The chiefs would meet annually, or oftener, and nominally enact the laws proposed to them; but, in truth, the present race of chiefs could not be intrusted with any discretion whatever in the adoption or rejection of any measure that might be submitted to them; moral principle, if it exist amongst them at all, being too weak to withstand the temptation of the slightest personal consideration. The congress would, in

fact, be a school in which the chiefs would he instructed in the duties required of them, and the authority confided to them, as conservators of the peace in their separate districts, to which they would also carry the knowledge of the laws enacted during its sittings.

As conservators of the peace, a small salary would be given to them; and this, together with the distinction conferred by the employment, would secure beyond all doubt the entire devotion of the chiefs to the wishes of the resident. A medal containing the name of each chief, and of the district over which his authority extended, would be another highly esteemed distinction.

To complete the means of establishing an entire control over the population, it would only be necessary to establish a school in each considerable village, with a schoolmaster paid in proportion to the number of individuals he should have under his tuition during the year. Schoolmasters already exist in many villages, and could, without difficulty, soon he procured for the whole by the aid of the missionaries. An annua) examination of these schools, and a distribution of prizes of trivial value, would bring the whole population under the supervision of the government; while a periodical newspaper might, at the same time that it conveyed the news of the day, be made the means of instructing the natives in those relative duties of the people and their rulers which are familiar to all ranks of the population under established governments, but of which the New Zealanders have scarcely as yet conceived an idea.

So simple and primitive are the arrangements which, with entire confidence of their efficiency, I would propose for the government of the native population; nor could the expense of these arrangements, for several years at least, exceed £1000 a-year, allotting a more considerable salary to certain leading chiefs, to be elected by the congress, with the sanction of the resident, for the purpose of acting with him as a native council and executive authority, and providing also for the accession of more distant tribes, who would hasten to join the confederation when its objects should become understood, and whose adherence it is indeed, under any circumstances, highly necessary to procure, as a bar to the interference of any foreign power.

The influence of the government amongt the tribes south of the present confederation would of course be more limited than nearer to the seat of government. But there also the intercourse of British subjects, and the evils for which they are responsible, are less felt. As these extended, the occasion and the means would arise for making the government efficient throughout the island. But, even from the first, the existence of a power which

would claim the right of deciding disputes and maintaining peace, would be most beneficially felt.

Although it would be absolutely necessary that the chiefs of the confederation should receive such a salary as, together with the distinction conferred by their being members of congress and conservators of the peace, would ensure their support of the measures of the resident, yet I do not conceive that there would be the slightest danger of any law which should be submitted to the chiefs being unpalatable to them: so little complicated are their social relations, that the most simple and obvious principles of natural justice and equity require only to be stated and explained, in order to form a code which would meet every case that is likely for many years to occur. That difficulties would for a time arise in the administration of the laws, there can be little doubt. It is scarcely to be expected that the chief of a tribe would be the instrument of apprehending a criminal immediately connected with himself; but,on the other hand, he would never think of affording him protection against a native police which could fall back upon the British troops for support. In many cases the vengeance of the laws might not overtake the guilty party, but the act of a single criminal would at once and for ever cease to be the occasion of civil war.

To those unacquainted with the actual status of a New Zealand chief, it may perhaps appear improbable that he would give up his own proper rank and authority, and become what would be, in fact, little better than an instrument in the hands of the British resident. But, in truth, the New Zealand chief has neither rank nor authority but what every person above the condition of a slave, and indeed most of them, may despise and resist with impunity. It would, in this respect, be to the chiefs, rather an acquisition than a surrender of power.

But the conduct of the chiefs in their individual capacity, would of course be regulated by the laws enacted by themselves as a collective body, and provision might be made for punishing by a pecuniary mulct, by a temporary suspension from office as a conservator of the peace, or by a degradation from the rank of a chief of congress, of any chief who should fail in the duties required of him. This could in almost all cases be done without risking the disaffection of his tribe, who would without any difficulty be induced to propose another of their leading men to be elected by the congress, and sanctioned by the resident in his stead.

It would of course rest with the wisdom of the British Government to determine what measures should be resorted to for the government of His Majesty's subjects; but all difficulties in the way of such an arrangement, are, I conceive, removed by the

existence and recognition of a New Zealand government. Whatever laws His Majesty's Government should consider suitable for the protection and control of the king's subjects, would be proposed to, and, as of course, become acts of the legislature of New Zealand.

Whatever courts of judicature His Majesty might deem necessary, would be established under the same sanction.

Whether the British settlements in this country have as yet attained sufficient importance to require the establishment of a supreme court of civil and criminal jurisdiction may be doubted; but when the necessity of providing for the administration of justice amongst the natives, consequent upon the establishment of a government, and the enactment of laws, is considered, the question assumes a different aspect. The country itself, possessing no materials for such institutions, can look alone to the protecting power to afford this as well as the other means of making its government effective.

Amongst the missionaries and catechists of the Church and Wesleyan Missionary Societies, there is a number of persons qualified to act in this country as justices of the peace, and there could, at least in the case of those who are laymen, exist no objection to their acting in that capacity on the part of the societies to which they belong. There are even now, also two or three of the settlers who are competent to the same office. The missionaries would prove an invaluable and almost indispensable adjunct to the judge of a criminal court, by acting as assessors in all cases in which natives should be concerned. The trials might also be conducted in the presence of a jury of natives, not constituted in any respect as judges in the case, but rather as compurgators with the accused, and as witnesses to the country of his having had a fair trial, conformably with what would appear from Sir F. Palgrave's researches, to have been the original constitution of juries in England.

Thus would the way be prepared for confiding to the people the trust of jurymen, in like manner as to the chiefs of congress that of legislators, when a generation should arise sufficiently enlightened and virtuous to be capable of those high functions.

From amongst the missionaries and the settlers might be selected a council to advise the resident, consisting of two or three of the former, who might be nominated after communicating with their constituents at home, and two of the latter, who would more immediately represent the interests and wishes of the settlers generally. By giving to the persons thus chosen the right, under such limitations as might be considered proper, of bringing under the consideration of the resident and such council, any questions which they might deem of public impor-

tance, and of having their opinions, when they differed from those of ihe resident, recorded in its proceedings, and transmitted to His Majesty's Government, the resident would ba able to avail himself of all the aid which the information and experience of the whole body of missionaries, and of settlers generally, could afford.

Unless a defined and specific share in the government of the country be allotted to the missionaries, the British Government has no right to expect that that influential body will give a hearty support to its representative. In points on which their own opinion is different from his, and these will constantly arise, they will persuade themselves that it is their duly to secede from him; and should they, in the character which they have assumed to themselves of guardians to the natives, conceive it be their duty to use their influence in opposition to his measures, they will occasion him no little embarrassment, even when vested with the full powers of a government.

His Excellency is in part aware that I have already had some difficulties of this nature to contend with. But after the missionaries had joined the settlers in attempting to force upon me the adoption of a measure which, when subsequently ordered by His Excellency, they requested might not be adopted, because the short experience of the interval had clearly demonstrated tha correctness of my opinion, and the erroneousness of their own, I thought they would naturally conclude in future, that it was possible for the conclusions of a single mind, when directed to one object, to be more correct than the collective opinions of many persons whose minds are altogether engrossed with the multitude of details which fill up the attention of men, occupied as they are, leaving neither leisure nor capacity for more enlarged and comprehensive views. I conceived that I had gained at least this point, that they would respect my opinions even when they might not feel disposed to second my measures. I am grieved to say that in this I have been disappointed, for no other reason that I can divine, than that I preferred my own opinion to theirs, upon a point of duty which they took upon them to dictate to me; they have latterly kept aloof from any communication with me; and by their conduct in a recent instance, they have put it out of my power, while our present relations continue, to make any further application or reference to them on matters connected with the King's service in this country. I had requested that a meeting of them and their Wesleyan brethren might take place at my house, in order to consult whether it might not be prudent for them to induce the chiefs to take the opportunity afforded by the delivery of the King's message, to petition His Majesty for assistance in reducing

their country to order, and establishing in it an efficient government. The Wesleyans sent a suitable apology; but the missionaries of the Church Missionary Society, with one exception, absented themselves without one word of previous or subsequent explanation.

Having been specially accredited to the missionaries of the Church Missionary Society, and directed to consult with them, it became my duty to make this explanation, and I have introduced it in connexion with the subject of this dispatch, because it is too important to be lightly considered in any future arrangements for the government of this country.

It is impossible that men could be found whose opinions and sentiments in general, are more in accordance than those of the missionaries and my own; nor could any person adopt towards them a more conciliatory line of conduct, than I have invariably done. But I have been placed with respect to them in a false position; on their side was the accumulated experience and influence of numbers acting in concert during many years of devotion to the secular as well as the spiritual interests of the natives, and with the command of whatever funds they might judge necessary to render their labours efficient.

In all respects, except the advantage of having acted in public business of some importance, before my arrival in this country, my own situation was a painful contrast to theirs. In such circumstances it need not excite much surprise that they should prefer their own opinions to mine, and, on their being discordant, that they should pursue their own views of duty, and leave me to mine. But I am not more surprised than distressed at the inconsistency of their recent conduct, believing them, as I still do, to be faithful and sincere men, and zealous in the pursuit of their sacred duties.

With regurd to the number of troops which it might he necessary to maintain, it would, I think, require little knowledge of military tactics to satisfy any one who has witnessed anything of the warfare of the natives, that one hundred English soldiers would be an overmatch for the united forces of the whole islands. But in fact there is little risk of even two tribes uniting to oppose them. There is no dominion anywhere existing to rival that which would call the British government to its aid; nor is any chief possessed, as such, of any sovereign or territorial rights, in support of which he might induce others to join him in resisting the established power. The righis of property being once recognised, and measures taken to ascertain and fix those righis, I cannot conceive any object for which the smallest number of men could be induced to unite in resisting the government, unless in the administration of justice; and so great

and manifold a blessing would, even under the least perfect system of government and judicature, prove to the distracted inhabitants of this country, that the most influential men amongst them would succeed in inducing few indeed to resist its exercise. But there is no reason why a body of the English settlers might not be enrolled and trained as a militia, to act with the regular troops in any emergency; nor could any objection exist to the training of a native force, although it appears to me that the natives are too independent in their circumstances to submit to military discipline for military pay.

Simultaneously with the establishment of a government, it would be absolutely necessary that means should be resorted to for ascertaining and fixing, upon equitable principles, the titles of British subjects to land which they claim to have purchased from the natives. This is a subject of so much importance, and which involves so deeply the character of the British Government, that I humbly submit it might be proper for his Majesty to issue a special commission for this purpose to persons not connected, or likely to be connected, with this country.

After the present claims should be disposed of, it would be necessary to declare all purchases void of which sufiicient notice had not been given to the Government, in order that the real proprietors of the land might be ascertained. Humanity would also require that certain districts should be fixed in perpetuity in the native proprietors, and that it should be enacted that all claims to the possession of such lands by foreigners, however acquired, should be absolutely null and void.

I have in previous communications indicated, in part, the sources from which a revenue might be raised to meet the expense of the arrangements above proposed. I shall not add to this already too extended despatch by entering into any particulars upon this head. I shall simply state that the number of ships which visited the Bay of Islands alone during the year 1836 amounted to 151, and the number during the six months or the present year not yet concluded to 72, and most of them were of a large class.

A simple tonnage duty on these vessels would go a great way towards meeting the civil expenditure of a government such as I have proposed. But there is also a very extensiye trade in spirits and tobacco, from which a revenue might be raised, not only without difficulty, but most beneficially for public morality and good order. In short, the trade of New Zealand is sufficiently extensive even now to afford ample means for the support of an efficient government, and the country possesses resources to meet whatever increase of expenditure its circumstances may require. It would only, perhaps, be necessary for the British

Government to issue a small loan, chiefly for several necessary public buildings and immediate expenses, in advance of the revenues of the New Zsalaud government, to be repaid by instalments when these revenues should be realized.

The above are principally the views which, in applying to His Excellency Sir Richard Bourke for leave to proceed to England, it was my object to bring under the immediate notice of the Home Government. I trust it will require no apology for having advanced them now, his Excellency in his last despatch having recognized the necessity for some further measures with regard to this country. Although he has only instructed me to suggest such as should fall wiihin the limits defined by His Majesty's Government I have made an attempt to point out by what means the extension of efficient protection to His Majesty's subjects might be made compatible with such a regard to the rights of the New Zealanders, as an independent state, as might satisfy the reasonable scruples of foreign governments, and thus remove the difficulties which I have, humbly presumed might influence the Secretary of State in defining those limits.

It might well be considered presumption in me, even if qualified for such a task, should I enter into the question how far the just and legitimate possession of lands in a foreign country entitles the possessors of those lands to require from the actual sovereigns of the country the ordinary protection of a government, and, if this is from incapacity or other causes withheld, to obtain the aid of the parent state in governing themselves. If I am rightly informed, the whole coast line from Cape Bult, including the noble harbour of the Bay of Islands, and extending as far as Wangaroa, forty miles to the northward of the Bay, has, with trivial exceptions, passed from the possession of the natives into that of British subjects. Nor has the consideration given been in all cases so disproportioned to the value of lands in an unsettled country, or even to the returns which the capital thus invested is capable of yielding, as to stamp such transactions universally with the character of injustice. Most of the valuable forests in the interior have changed their ownership; and on the western coast an extensive territory is also claimed by British subjects.

When his Majesty's Government become aware of these facts, it is possible that they may consider the course of events has so altered the relation of this country to the rest of the world, as to demand the application of a different principle than that which, in an abstract view of its previous condition, may have been considered expedient and just; and that his Majesty may be advised to grant a charter ot government to the colony of British subjects who are established in it, leaving the natives

in the full possession of their abstract rights, so far as they havn not conceded them to the colonists, and providing only against their suffering injustice at the hands of the latter.

There can be no doubt that the establishment of any authority whatever would be an incalculable advantage. But I cannot here avoid submitting, with all humility, a suggestion which has occurred to me, with no common force, in the course of my observations on the state of this country; namely, that it seems not more consistent with the arrangements of Divine Providence that an infant people which, by its intercourse with a powerful state, is subject to all the injury and injustice which weakness and ignorance must suffer by being thrown into a competition of interests with knowledge and power, should at naturally fall under and be not less entitled to the protection of the powerful state than the weakness of infancy and childhood is entitled to the protection of those who were the instruments of bringing it into an existence wich requires such protection. I may go further, and submit that this would seem the instinct of natural justice, as exemplified by the reference which the chiefs made to the King of England in their declaration of independence. They prayed "that His Majesty would continue to be their parent, and that he would become their protector." The sentiment and the language were their own.

I have, &c.
(Signed) JAMES BUSBY,
British Resident at New Zealand.

Petition to His late Majesty from British Settlers in New Zealand.

To the King's Most Excellent Majesty.
SlRE,

May it please your Majesty to allow your faithful, obedient, and loyal subjects, at present residing in New Zealand, to approach the Throne, and crave your condescending attention to their petition, which is called forth by their peculiar situation.

The present crisis of the threatened usurpation of power over New Zealand by Baron de Thierry, the particulars of which have been forwarded to your Majesty's Government by James Busby, Esquire, the British Resident, strongly urges us to make known our fears and apprehensions for ourselves and families, and the people amongst whom we dwell.

Your petitioners would advert to the serious evils and perplexing grievances which surround and await them, arising, for the most part, if not entirely, from some of your Majesty's subjects, who fearlessly commit depredations upon other of your Majesty's subjects who are peaceably disposed. British property in vessels as well as on shore, is exposed, without any redress, to every imaginable risk and plunder, which may be traced to the want of a power in the land to check and control evils, and preserve order amongst your Majesty's subjects.

Your petitioners are aware that it is not the desire of your Majesty to extend the colonies of Great Britain; but they would call your Majesty's attention to the circumstance of several of your Majesty's subjects having resided in New Zealand for more than twenty years past, since which their numbers have accumulated to more than five hundred, north of the river Thames alone, many of whom are heads of families. The frequent arrivals of persons from England and the adjacent colonies is a fruitful source of further augmentation. Your petitioners, would, therefore, humbly call your Majesty's attention to the fact, that there is at present a considerable body of your Majesty's subjects established in this island, and that owing to the salubrity of the climate, there is every reason to anticipate a rapidly rising colony of British subjects. Should this colony continue to advance, no doubt means would be devised, wheroby many of its internal expences would be met, as is other new countries. There are numbers of landholders, and the Kouri Forests have become, for the most part, the private property of your Majesty's subjects.

Your humble petitioners would also entreat your Majesty's attention to the important circumstance, that the Bay of Islands has long been the resort of ships employed in the South Sea fishery and the merchant service, and is in itself a most noble anchorage for all classes of vessels, and is further highly important in affording supplies and refreshment to shipping. There are also several other harbours and anchorages of material importance to the shipping interest, in situations where British subjects have possessions and property to a large amount. The number of arrivals of vessels in the Bay of Islands during the last three years has been considerably on the increase. At one period, thirty-six were at anchor, and in the course of the six months ending June, 1836, no less than one hundred and one vessels visited the Bay.

Your petitioners would further state, that since the increase of the European population, several evils have been growing upon thcm. The crews of vessels have frequently been decoyed on shore, to the great detriment of trade, and numberless robberies

have been committed on shipboard and on shore by a lawless band of Europeans, who have not even scrupled to use fire-arms to support them in their depredations. Your humble petitioners seriously lament that when complaints have been made to the British Resident of these acts of outrage, he has expressed his deep regret that he has not yot been furnished with authority and power to act, not even the authority of a civil magistrate to administer an affidavit.

Your humble petitioners express with much concern their conviction that unless your Majesty's fostering care be extended towards them, they can only anticipate that both your Majesty's subjects and also the aborigines of this land will be liable in an increased degree to murders, robberies, and every kind of evil.

Your petitioners would observe that it has been considered that the confederate tribes of New Zealand were competent to enact laws for the proper government of this land, whereby protection would be afforded in all cases of necessity; but experience evidently shows that in the infant state of this country this cannot be accomplished or expected. It is acknowledged by the chiefs themselves to be impracticable. Your petitioners, therefore, feel persuaded that considerable time most elapse before the chiefs of this land can be capable of exercising the duties of an independent government.

Your humble petitioners would, therefore, pray that your Majesty may graciously regard the peculiarity of their situation, and afford that relief which may appear most expedient to your Majesty.

Relying upon your Majesty's wisdom and clemency, we shall ever pray Almighty God to behold with favour and preserve our gracious Sovereign, and beg humbly to subscribe ourselves, &c.

[Here follows a list of the Signatures.]

A. BENT, PRINTER, 67, PITT-STREET, SYDNEY.

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