Narrative of a Residence in Various Parts of New Zealand

Charles Heaphy

First published by Smith, Elder and Co. [Hocken reprint, 1970] in 1842

Digitised and made available online by the University of Auckland Libraries and Learning Services.

Epub © 2013 Early New Zealand Books Collection

ISBN 978-1-927279-06-9

[TITLE PAGE]

NARRATIVE OF A RESIDENCE
IN VARIOUS PARTS OF
NEW ZEALAND.

TOGETHER WITH
A DESCRIPTION OF THE PRESENT STATE
COMPANY'S SETTLEMENTS.

BY CHARLES HEAPHY,
DRAFTSMAN TO THE NEW ZEALAND COMFANY.

LONDON: SMITH, ELDER AND CO., 65, CORNHILL.

1842.

[TITLE VERSO]

Hocken Library Facsimile No. 7
This copy of the original edition is published
by the Hocken Library, University of Otago,
Dunedin, New Zealand, 1968.

LONDON :
PRINTED BY STEWART AND MURRAY OLD BAILEY.
Printed Itek-offset in New Zealand
by John Mclndoe Ltd., Dunedin.

[CONTENTS PAGE]

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.
Arrival of the Preliminary Expedition – Appearance of the Coast – Port Nicholson selected for site of principal Settlement – Proceedings of Missionaries – Northern parts of the North Island ..... page 1

CHAPTER II.
Early progress of the Settlement – Difficulties from insecurity of title – Conduct of the Colonial Secretary – Proposal to remove the Settlement to Chili – Deputation to Sydney – Expedition to the Northward – Hostility of Captain Hobson – His visit to Wellington, and proceedings relative to the Nelson Settlement . . . . . .8

CHAPTER III.
Climate – High winds – Influence on health – Soil – Hilly nature of the country – Recent geological formation – Effects of volcanic agency – Resemblance to Scotland – Minerals – Character of the soil – Evidences of its fertility – Capabilities for grazing – Phormium Tenax . . . .22

CHAPTER IV.
Whale fisheries – Necessity for their protection – Natural productions – Timber – Varieties of woods – Pitoku oil – Kauri gum – Indigenous fruits – Plants – Birds – Fishes . . 38

CHAPTER V.
Progress of civilization among the Natives – Influence of the Missionaries – Results of their intercourse with the Natives – Native character – Scene on the Wanganui river – Native wars – Security of Settlers – False alarm at Wellington – Usefulness of the Natives – Their wealth – Land Reserves – Population in and around Port Nicholson . . . page 50

CHAPTER VI.
Description of Wellington – Selection of site – Lambton Harbour – Shipping – Houses, stores, &c. – Trades – Cultivation – Roads – Valley of the Hutt – Value of town and country land – Land Associations – Villages – Population – Land in the vicinity of Wellington, and adjacent district – Coal fields – Stone – Manewatu district . . . .68

CHAPTER VII.
Description of Wanganui – Source of river – Character of land – Formation of town of Petre – Expence of clearing – Natives Site of the town – Account of New Plymouth – Character of country – Evidence of volcanic agency – Want of harbour – Necessity for a breakwater ... . .90

CHAPTER VIII.
Description of Nelson – Singular geographical formation of New Zealand – Rivers Mota Aka and Waimea – Nelson Haven – Site of town – Coal – Character of the country – Climate . 100

CHAPTER IX.
Parts of New Zealand best adapted for Colonization – Thames – Manukao and Waitemata – Kafia – Middle Island – Chatham Islands ...... 109

CHAPTER X.
Unpopularity of the Governor – Auckland – Missionaries – Concluding remarks.... page 112

APPENDIX (A) – Observations on the Chatham Islands as a field for Colonization . . . . . 117

APPENDIX (B) – Spirit of the latest intelligence 133

APPENDIX (C) – New Zealand Tariff . . . 142

[ERRATA]

ERRATA.

Page 10 line 27, insert comma after "however."

– 20 – 32, for "adduce," read "conduce."

– 24 – 13, for "partly the moisture," read "partly through the moisture."

– 32 – 1, insert comma offer "common."

– 43 – 27, for "Jervis," read "Jewess."

– 43 – 5, for " Ruva-ruva," read "Rewa-rewa."

– 45 – 15, for "Tawara or Astilia," read "Tawara an Astilia."

– 45 – 28, for " camellia," read "Camilla."

– 46 – 22, for "Kara," read "Kava."

[PREFACE]

PREFACE.

RETURNING to England after a residence for a considerable period in New Zealand, during which have occurred events of no less moment in the colony than its regular settlement by Europeans, and erection into a dependency of the English Crown; and finding that many contradictory reports and ideas have been circulated concerning its prosperity, in which so many are interested; I have been induced, at the request of a considerable number of persons, both here and in the colony, to write a brief account of the present state of the settlements in that country, and of their apparent prospects.

From the circumstance of my having been in the service of the Company by whom the colony was founded, it may be imagined that I am interested in upholding its principles, and am now writing by its dictation. This, however, is not the case; and although I must own, that from having witnessed the successful working of the Company's plans, I am

PREFACE.

inclined to think that its system of colonization is the best, and am predisposed in its favour, I must disclaim any participation or interference of it in my writings.

In publishing a work of even this unpretending nature, many attendant difficulties present themselves to a person wholly unused to writing, and who has been preceded by many others of far greater ability and experience, on a subject which has so often been considered. But believing that the information contained in the following pages will interest, and be acceptable to many connected with New Zealand affairs, I am assured that a work, almost wholly descriptive, will not meet with illiberal criticism.

C. H.

[CHAPTER 1]

NARRATIVE OF A RESIDENCE IN NEW ZEALAND.

CHAPTER I.

INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER.

I HAD the fortune to be connected with the first expedition despatched by the New Zealand Company for the purpose of acquiring territory and selecting the site of their first settlement. While examining the country for this purpose, and during a subsequent residence in New Zealand, I had many opportunities of acquiring a knowledge of the various parts of the country, and of making myself acquainted with the advantages which present themselves in those portions which have been already settled.

The expedition left England in May, 1839, in the Tory , and arrived in New Zealand in the following August, fortunately in time to allow of the country being sufficiently explored before the arrival of the settlers, and to cause the judicious selection of the site of the Company's first enterprise.

On first sighting New Zealand, we were disap-

APPEARANCE OF THE COAST.

pointed with the appearance of the coast. The high mountain ranges of the middle island, terminating abruptly on the south side of Cook's Strait, in several long promontories, seem to leave no space for cultivable land; while the country generally appears sterile and unworthy of settlement. Between these promontories, however, the best harbours are situated; and although they are surrounded with but little available land, yet, in some instances, they communicate with large agricultural districts in the interior.

On entering any of the harbours in Cook's Strait, it is immediately seen that the land, which at a distance had an appearance of sterility, is in reality of the richest and most fertile nature. The hills are covered luxuriantly with foliage to the water's edge, and so far from their being barren, the deep black vegetable mould, which for ages has been accumulating, produces the most splendid growth of forest, many of the trees in which are really of stupendous size.

The first place we visited was Queen Charlotte's Sound. This, although without exception the finest harbour in New Zealand, was not considered suitable as the locality of the first settlement, as there was not a sufficiency of level land for the wants of the colony, notwithstanding many very beautiful patches of level and fertile land are to be found in the vicinity of its numerous bays and creeks.

It was necessary, before the expedition proceeded to explore the adjacent coasts, that the ship should be refitted; and during the consequent delay we had excellent opportunities of examining the surrounding districts, and of becoming in a measure acquainted with the native character and customs.

PORT NICHOLSON.

After having explored the various arms of Queen Charlotte's Sound, Cloudy Bay, and the Pelorus River, it was decided that the country in the vicinity of these harbours was not adapted for colonization on a large scale, because, although there was much land, with excellent water communication, and of great fertility, which might amply repay the industry of a scattered population, it would not suffice to carry out the plans of the Company. From Queen Charlotte's Sound we proceeded to Port Nicholson, which is only a few hours' sail across the strait.

On entering Port Nicholson, one is struck with the grandeur of the view. The harbour resembles an inland lake rather than an arm of the sea, and in beauty, certainly far surpasses that of our English lakes. As we worked up to the anchorage, the noble expanse of water, surrounded by a country of the most picturesque character, formed a scene of indescribable beauty; and as the valley of the Hutt river opened to our view, apparently extending far inland until bounded by the snowy range, we wondered that a place which seemed so much to invite settlement, had not before been colonized.

On examining the bay, we found an inner harbour, with a convenient site for a town on its shores, and on penetrating the country, we ascertained that it was generally of a far more available nature than we had at first supposed. The extent of level country did not appear sufficient for all the wants of the colony about to be formed, but we were aware of the existence of large tracts of level country inland, to which there might be easy communication. The excellence of the harbour, and its superiority in point of centrical position, together with the desire of the aborigines for its settlement by white people, mainly deter-

PORT NICHOLSON.

mined its selection as the site of the Company's first settlement. 1

Amongst the various harbours which we afterwards visited, we found none so well adapted for settlement as that which had been fixed on. Those possessing large tracts of level land in their immediate vicinity, were all either of difficult access, or insecure for shipping; and with the advantages enjoyed by Port Nicholson, it appeared conclusively, that that place was better adapted for the seat of a large and increasing community, and also for the entrepot of the trade of the islands than any other locality which we had seen, or were likely to find.

In the acquisition of the district from the natives, great care was taken that they should fully comprehend the terms on which they relinquished their rights, and the plan of the Company in respect of the land to be reserved for their benefit. On being told the amount of the immediate payment, their most influential chiefs replied, "that they cared but little about what would be given them for their land, but that they wanted white men and women to settle amongst them, and to bring cattle, and grow corn;" they added, "that the people from Port Jackson, and the missionaries, had repeatedly, when endeavouring to purchase land, promised to come and live with them, but had never done so."

The natives of Port Nicholson have since proved that they appreciate the introduction of European

PORT NICHOLSON.

civilization; and that, notwithstanding the efforts of the missionaries to render them dissatisfied with their altered condition, they are contented with the quantity of land reserved for them, and now never interfere with the location of the settlers on their respective property. Such, indeed, is their disposition to mix with the European population, that it is to be expected the two races will eventually be entirely amalgamated.

The celerity with which the first expedition had been planned and dispatched, proved of service in defeating the projects of the missionaries and Sydney speculators. These persons, it appeared, finding that the systematic colonization of the country had been undertaken, and knowing the value which would consequently attach to all eligible localities for settlement, determined to acquire those spots most adapted to the Company's objects, with the intention of reselling them at the highest price they might be able to obtain. The rapaciousness of these individuals soon became apparent; and not being in time to precede us, they were necessitated to purchase only such places as were not worthy the attention of the Company, or to acquire the right of some inferior chief to a district already purchased. It was amusing to find these disinterested persons following us every where. The Tory only left Port Nicholson, after the acquisition of that district, to be succeeded by the missionary schooner, containing Mr. Williams and party; who finding that they could not obtain that place, proceeded to the Wanganui River, as being the most likely place to engage the attention of the Company's agent after the settlement of Port Nicholson.

At the Wanganui they were equally unsuccessful,

NORTHERN DISTRICTS.

and found that their anticipated influence as missionaries was unavailing with the natives; the white party, therefore, returned to the Bay of Islands, having failed in accomplishing its praiseworthy object.

On visiting the northern parts of the island, which we did after having acquired the various districts around Cook's Strait most suitable for colonization, it became apparent to us that the country beyond Mount Egmont, or, at the farthest, Kafia, was not at all adapted for immediate settlement, on account of the absence of good harbours. The land around Mount Egmont was the finest which we had seen in New Zealand; but in consequence of the insecurity of the anchorage, many objections presented themselves to its immediately becoming the scene of the Company's operations.

The Bay of Islands, and the Hokianga and Kaipara rivers presented no advantages for immediate settlement. An illegitimate importance had become attached to the first of these places on account of its being the residence of the missionaries. Being also a good harbour, a number of Sydney merchants established themselves there to supply the whaling vessels which frequented the coast with provisions, &c. A small commercial community had thus grown up around the missionary station, dependent entirely upon trading, and without a sufficiency of available land in the neighbourhood for its own support. The Sydney merchants, who had bought land there on account of the valuable "Kauri" fir that it produced, but which was in other respects nearly worthless, finding that it was not likely to be of any farther value to them, at least for agricultural purposes, had endeavoured to dispose of it in New South Wales,

NORTHERN DISTRICTS.

and had accordingly trumpeted forth its excellences, and asserted its pre-eminent eligibility for the chief settlement in New Zealand. The missionaries, for the same reasons, had acted in a like manner, and naturally looked with jealousy on the systematic settlement of any but their own land. It may fairly be said that all the detraction and abuse of the colonial papers, at the time of the formation of the Company's first colony, originated in the party interests of the various claimants of land in New Zealand, or in jealousy at the direction of the tide of emigration setting towards the Company's settlements.

The land around the Hokianga and Kaipara rivers, although better than that near the Bay of Islands, cannot be settled by an agricultural population for many years, as those harbours are of difficult, and one of extremely dangerous, access. The nature of the land is also inferior, and in all places where the Kauri pine grows is peculiarly barren. The open country is generally covered with a dry mould upon a sandy subsoil, and in the forest districts the stiff red clay is, on account of its sterility, unfit for cultivation. The timber, however, at present forms a valuable article of export.

1On his first arrival at Port Nicholson the immigrant might perhaps regret not seeing the extended plains which he had pictured to himself, but he soon will find that there is a sufficiency of level land in the immediate neighbourhood of the town tor its support for many years. And he is delighted with the general appearance of fertility around him.

[CHAPTER 2]

CHAPTER II.

THE EARLY PROGRESS OF THE COLONY.

ON the return of our party from the northern parts of the island to Port Nicholson, we found that the first colony had arrived, and the settlers had commenced building, and were also cultivating ground for immediate purposes. The harbour presented now a very different scene from that which it had shown a few months previously; twelve ships were lying at anchor in the bay, and on shore the numerous houses and tents which had been erected gave an appearance of civilization and comfort to the place, which we had not expected so soon to find. The natives, we were pleased to find, were on excellent terms with the settlers, and most of them were either engaged in their employ, or in building houses for the immigrants which were yet to arrive.

The energy and industry of the settlers were conspicuous, and a cheerful spirit reigned amongst them They seemed to care but little for difficulties of the country around them, and little objection was made to the land on account of the expense of clearing as they were satisfied of its extreme fertility.

Had all the land-owners been then able to commence farming, the colony would ere now have produced far more grain than would have been sufficient for its consumption; but at this most critical

FIRST PROCEEDINGS OF THE COLONISTS.

period in the history of the settlement, the colonists were given to understand that from the Government they would have no title to the land, and that should they commence cultivation or building on the site of the town, their property would be liable to forfeiture, and themselves to ejection. The sight of the "mounted police," – men whose business it was, in the penal colonies to apprehend escaped convicts and hunt down "bush-rangers," – patroling the beach, with fetters in their hands, for the intimidation of the inhabitants, served but to prepare them for the still harsher usage they were to meet with from the local government.

A public meeting was convened by the settlers, to consider the state of affairs in this crisis: and the Colonial Secretary, then resident in Wellington as chief magistrate, was respectfully invited to attend a future meeting, in order that the settlers might be made acquainted with the intentions of the Government respecting their claims, as far as he was authorized to disclose the same. Mr. Shortland refused to have any interview for that purpose, saying that he had no instructions to treat with the inhabitants in any way but as a magistrate; hinting, afterwards, at the substance of the bill then about to be passed in the New South Wales Council, which prevented any person or company holding more than 2,500 acres. Subsequently, when asked by some gentlemen his opinion respecting their security in expending capital on the place, the Colonial Secretary replied, in accordance with the whole system of conduct of the Governor, who was instructed to treat the Port Nicholson settlers with "kindness and consideration," – "Gentlemen, I cannot satisfy you in this particular, or give you my opinion at all on the mat-

HOSTILITY OF THE LOCAL GOVERNMENT.

ter, as I am daily in expectation of receiving instructions from Auckland to order you off the land, to give place for a Government township."

In the state of uncertainty caused by this system of Government, the settlers could not, of course, proceed with any degree of assurance; and those possessed of small capital, finding themselves unable to cultivate land, or to carry out the plans on which they had emigrated, became dispirited at the poor prospects before them; while those who had embarked a few hundred pounds in the enterprize, and had hoped to commence farming in such a manner as would soon yield them a maintenance, seeing that there was no chance of the realization of their plans, turned their attention to trading instead of agriculture, and soon lost much of the spirit and confidence which they had manifested before the interference of Government.

At one time this uncertainty had reached to such a height, that it was proposed by some of the most influential persons in the place, and with much seriousness, that the colony should remove to Chili, giving up all claims to land in New Zealand, and placing itself under the protection of one of the South American republican governments, which was willing to grant it land and considerable constitutional privileges. This project, however feasible as it was, soon fell to the ground, in consequence of the continued arrival of settlers from England, as well as the confidence every one had in the power and influence of the Company in England.

Colonel Wakefield, the Company's principal agent, returned about this time from the Bay of Islands, whither he had been deputed to proceed, on the part of the settlers, with an address of congratulation, and

DEPUTATION TO SYDNEY.

promises of support from them to the Lieutenant-Governor. The answer which he brought was, however, vague and indecisive, and had not the effect of tranquillizing the public mind.

A deputation was then dispatched to Sydney to learn from the Governor-General the terms on which the settlers were likely to receive titles to their land from the Crown. Sir George Gipps displayed a statesmanlike and conciliatory spirit, to which his subordinate was a stranger; and in making known to the deputation the arrangements and plans which he would propose for them to the home Government, he assured them of the interest which he took in the welfare of the colony, and of his anxiety for its prosperity.

The propositions of the Governor-General met with immediate and decided acceptance at Port Nicholson. It entailed some inconveniences on the settlers by obliging them to take their land in the immediate vicinity of the harbour, where much of it was unfit for agricultural purposes, and by reserving the Government right of selecting twenty acres of town land, as also of a certain extent of ground above high-water mark, for its own purposes; but the settlers were happy in having any terms proposed to them, and on the announcement of the success of the deputation, the colony again resumed an appearance of spirit and activity.

At the same time, in the period which elapsed before the settlers could proceed with assurance in their respective occupations, nothing but the large amount of capital which had been brought into the colony by the first settlers, and the liberal expenditure of the Company in Wellington, could have saved the colony from destruction.

EXPEDITION TO MOUNT EGMONT.

Shortly before the return of the deputation from Sydney, Mr. Shortland, the Colonial Secretary, was removed from Port Nicholson, and was succeeded in the magistracy by a person of gentlemanly deportment and comprehensive understanding; and although the settlers could not be satisfied with the sole adjudication of one magistrate, who, while really interested in the welfare of the colony, was nevertheless in the pay of the local government and had been sent from Auckland, they yet rejoiced in their deliverance from the annoyance and overbearing authoritativeness of the one who had left them.

Previous to the departure of the deputation for Sydney, an expedition was despatched from Port Nicholson to explore the country northward of the Tararua range, lying about the Manewatu and Wanganui rivers, and as far as Mount Egmont. Having formed one of the party, and more especially as the country over which the expedition passed is one of the finest portions of New Zealand, and is entirely dependent on the harbours of Port Nicholson and Wanganui as outlets for its future produce, I shall here give some description of the various districts which we passed, and which either are now, or shortly will be, in the various stages of colonization.

The principal object of the expedition was to ascertain whether the more remote districts lying along the northern shore of the strait were of a nature to cause their general applicability for settlement; as well as obtain a more accurate knowledge of the coast line, and the various rivers, than had before been known.

On leaving the neighbourhood of the harbour, we found that the difficulties of communication with the northern shore and the interior had been far exagger-

EXPEDITION TO MOUNT EGMONT.

ated. The hills, which had been pointed out as forming a barrier to any outlet from the district of Port Nicholson, were of easy access, and of exceedingly rich and fertile soil, covered with valuable timber, and for the most part available for agriculture.

As a description of the Porirua harbour and district is given in another part of this pamphlet, I shall here only notice, that had the depth of water been greater at the entrance of the harbour, the Porirua country might, probably, have been chosen for the site of the first enterprise of the Company, in preference to Port Nicholson, in the district of which it is now included.

For about thirty miles from Porirua, the strip of available land along the coast is narrow, the high snowy mountains of the Tararua range rising only a few miles from the sea ; but a short distance beyond the island of Kapiti the level land increases in width, and the mountain ranges receding, open the Manewatu plains, which are the commencement of large flat inland districts in the centre of the North island.

The whole country, from the Manewatu river along the coast of the strait to the Sugar Loaf Islands, is of a level nature, much less wooded than the rest of the island, and watered by numerous rivers, of which three are navigable at their entrance for small vessels. The country generally is well adapted for settlement, but it must be accomplished by the growth of the population of the places already colonized. The Wanganui and Manewatu rivers, which will be hereafter described, are both now in progress of settlement from Wellington, and possess many facilities for becoming important agricultural and pastoral stations.

Between the above-mentioned rivers, the Ranga-

EXPEDITION TO MOUNT EGMONT.

tiki and Wangaihu fall into the sea. These rivers have their origin in the plains to the south of the Tongariro volcano, and flow through a fine level country eminently adapted for grazing.

Beyond the Wanganui, and between it and Mount Egmont, lies the Patea district, which is equal to that of Wanganui in extent and fertility, but without the advantage of an equally navigable river. Small coasting vessels have, however, entered the Patea for native produce, which maybe obtained in abundance. The country around this, and the Wenua Kuri river, which two closely approximate, is exceedingly fine, and capable of depasturing large herds and flocks; being, for the most part, covered with grass and herbage.

About thirty miles from the coast of Wanganui there rises a range of hills separating the Patea from the Taupo country, which lies in the vicinity of the lake of the same name and Lake Rotorua. Although this range of hills intervenes between the districts, there is yet an easy communication between them by the valley of the river, which winds amongst the mountains, and has its source in the Taupo plains. The last-mentioned country is so level and devoid of bush, that, according to the statements of the natives, it is possible to ride with ease from the sources of the Cook's Strait rivers, all the way across to the Bay of Plenty.

Of the Taranaki country, which we next visited, but little need here be said, as it is by all parties allowed to be the most fertile in New Zealand. The level land extends around the base of Mount Egmont, as far as the eye can observe, and is composed of an exceedingly rich volcanic mould over granite and conglomerate. In the centre of this plain, or slightly

RETURN OF THE EXPEDITION.

undulating surface, the mountain, rising with beautiful regularity of form to a height of nearly 8,000 feet, is an object of extreme grandeur and sublimity.

The Taranaki district is not so densely wooded as that near Port Nicholson. Towards the coast are extensive tracts of open country, covered with coarse grass and fern. Around the immediate base of the mountain, the country is covered with forest; large portions of grazing land being, however, occasionally interspersed. All the land is well adapted for the production of wheat, and may be cultivated at a comparatively trifling expense.

The report given of the nature of the country (on the return of the expedition to Wellington, after an absence of two months,) and of the quantity of available land in the interior, which would eventually be dependent on Wellington as a commercial port, and as the only outlet for its produce, gave much satisfaction to the colonists; as it assured them of the facilities of communication between their settlement and the whole of the North Island, and at the same time convinced them all of the suitability of the locality selected for the site of the future capital of New Zealand.

I must now advert to the treatment received by the colonists from Governor Hobson. Although he had been in the country since the arrival of the colony, with constant means of communication at his disposal, he had not yet visited the settlement where were established three-fourths of the white population of the islands. On his arrival in the country, he might have been expected to view the proceedings of the Port Nicholson settlers with some degree of caution and jealousy, from his known partiality to the missionary interest, which was always

PROCEEDINGS OF GOVERNOR HOBSON.

opposed to the Company's plan of colonizing the country in a systematic manner: yet, on the joyous reception of the declaration of the right of the English Crown, by the settlers in Port Nicholson, and their expression of support and gratulation to its representative, all mistrustful feeling and jealousy should have ceased: and Captain Hobson would then have been respected and beloved as the Governor of New Zealand, rather than known as the founder of an obscure and distant settlement, and the head of a party of officials dependent on the colonists for their maintenance.

On becoming acquainted with the arrangements between Governor Gipps and the Port Nicholson settlers, and finding that the threat of dispossessing them of their land was uncared for, a new plan was resorted to by Capt. Hobson, that would have the effect of retarding the prosperity of the rival township, and injuring the inhabitants. At this time, when, through the settlement of the long-pending title question, the settlers in Wellington began to feel themselves in a position to carry out the plans on which they had immigrated – when numerous buildings were in the course of erection – land being cleared and cultivated, and all the mechanic and labouring classes in full employment, at high wages, – a ship was dispatched from Auckland for the purpose of removing from Wellington to that place the working people who could be induced to enter the Government employ.

The Governor has since, I learn, denied participation in this business, but the fact is incontrovertible; the inducement was advertised in the local newspaper, with the signature of the resident police magistrate attached to it; and the constables, and go-

PETITION FOR HIS RECALL.

vernment agents were continually at the Company's immigration depot, endeavouring to persuade the newly-arrived immigrants, by the ships Blenheim and Slains Castle , to leave the place, and proceed to the Thames.

These various objectionable proceedings of the Lieutenant Governor towards the Port Nicholson settlers did not fail to excite their indignation; and their feelings were soon made manifest in the dispatch of a numerously signed petition to the English Crown for his removal. Soon after being made acquainted with the fact of the petition having been forwarded to England for his recall, Capt. Hobson, in a letter to the Company's agent at Wellington, declared that he intended shortly to visit that settlement, and that he "would bring in his hand an olive branch." The letter was accompanied by the newly-made list of magistrates, in which had been omitted the names of three of the most respectable residents in Port Nicholson, who had been put in the commission of the peace by Sir George Gipps.

The reason of these gentlemen not being included amongst the magistrates of New Zealand, appointed by Capt. Hobson on that country being erected into an independent colony, was, that they had accepted the invitation, at a meeting of the inhabitants, to exercise the power with which they were invested as magistrates, as a check upon the proceedings of the police magistrate, with whose conduct some of the settlers were not satisfied. The insult shown to the settlers by Capt. Hobson in this instance was deeply felt, and they did not forget to express to him their opinion concerning it on his subsequent visit.

On the arrival of the intelligence of the erection of New Zealand into an independent colony, and of the

ARRANGEMEMT WITH THE HOME GOVERNMENT.

Company's incorporation by charter, together with the news of the favourable light in which the Government viewed the Company's proceedings, the public confidence in Wellington was completely restored, and the settlers became assured of their ultimate success, which caused them to proceed with increased energy and enterprize in their different avocations. This spirit, happily, had not in the least diminished at the date of the writer's departure from the colony.

The arrival of the colony for New Plymouth, which occurred about this time, rather than being looked upon in Wellington as detrimental to the interests of that place, was esteemed a benefit; as all knew that the colonization of the land around Cook's Strait would conduce materially to the prosperity of that settlement. The enterprise proved, too, that the Company had neither diminished its efforts for that end, nor been awed into inaction by the difficulties which had been thrown in its way by Government. The subsequent location of the Nelson settlement was, in the same manner, viewed in Port Nicholson as highly advantageous to the interest of the latter place.

On the arrival of the Governor at Wellington, which at length occurred twenty-seven months after his landing in New Zealand, he found the colony proceeding with far more spirit than it was likely he had expected; as he had until that time only obtained a knowledge of the place from the accounts of persons whose interest it was to depreciate it. The settlers at Wellington knew that the two principal Government agents who had visited them – Messrs. Williams and Shortland – had not reported favourably of the locality; they were, therefore, not surprised

VISIT OF THE GOVERNOR.

when it was asserted that Capt. Hobson had expressed himself favourably of the place, which he found to be different from his pre-conceived idea, but that he was much disgusted with the behaviour of the inhabitants. This latter feeling was, however, reciprocal, and cannot be wondered at by those acquainted with the mutual position of the parties.

The Port Nicholson settlers did not, on receiving the Governor, follow the example shown them at the Bay of Islands. At a public meeting, held on the night of his arrival, it was determined that no congratulatory, or any other kind of address, should be presented to him, but that at the same time respect should be shown to the representative of the Crown, and to an old and efficient naval officer, and that in their conduct towards him, they would be guided by the spirit which he might display towards the interests of their settlement. It is true, that during the discussion some excitement was evinced; and the circumstance of colonial newspapers having been put into mourning on like occasions was even mentioned; but the settlers, although they could not welcome him, allowed no expression of insult or contumely to escape them.

During the stay of the Governor in Port Nicholson, no unusual excitement took place; and a stranger would have scarcely believed that the long-expected visit had taken place. The Governor, with his aide-de-camp and party, walked about the town, unattended by the inhabitants, and unnoticed; and at his levee, none but officials, or persons seeking government employment, were present. The working classes displayed the same dissatisfaction as the others, and showed but little gratitude for his pretended wish of bettering their condition by removing

VISIT OF THE GOVERNOR.

them to Auckland. His refusal to set apart a piece of ground for the site of a mechanics institution, did not increase his popularity amongst them.

This long expected and much desired visit was followed by but few of the advantages which were expected to attend it. The Governor still evinced the same spirit of opposition to the interests of the place, which had been so long and deservedly complained of ever since his first arrival in the country. The greater benefits derived from his visit were the establishment of a criminal court, and the liberation of some of the prisoners who had been waiting in gaol for trial for more than two years. The boundaries of the district were also fixed, and a few localities pointed out in and around the town for the necessary public buildings; but when these were to be erected was not mentioned.

The principal cause of dissatisfaction to the settlers at this time was the opposition displayed to their own as well as the Company's interests by Capt. Hobson, in the question as to the location of the Nelson settlement. A suitable site had been proposed, at Banks' Peninsula, where there was a good harbour, adjoining a splendid agricultural district; but this was, unfortunately, a few miles beyond the limits of the territory originally purchased by Col. Wakefield, within which the Company was obliged to found the settlement, unless any other location were approved by the Governor. As its position in the Middle Island, which Capt. Hobson declared he would not colonize, could not, of course, in any way adduce to the supremacy of the government town, the veto of the Governor was put on the colony being settled at Port Cooper; and a bay was pointed out in the gulf of the Thames, about fifteen miles from

SELECTION OF THE SITE OF NELSON.

Auckland, as the most proper place for the new settlement; while the Company's agent was informed that if he should not choose to go to a place of which he had no knowledge, – marked on the chart as without a harbour, or any other apparent advantage, – he must restrict himself to the limits of the territory originally acquired by the Company.

It is almost needless to remark, that nothing short of infatuation would have induced Capt. Wakefield to plant the colony in the place pointed out, where, without any equivalent advantages, it would have been continually suffering from the rivalry of the adjacent government town, which would soon have drained the place of the working population which had been brought out at the expense of the landowners of Nelson: while the additional circumstance of Auckland possessing a tolerable harbour, would also have always caused its pre-eminence over the adjoining township.

[CHAPTER III]

CHAPTER III.

CLIMATE, SOIL, AND NATURAL PRODUCTIONS.

OF the climate of New Zealand too much cannot be said in praise, as it is equalled by but few, and cannot be surpassed by any, in the world. It is extremely equable, and, consequently, well adapted to persons suffering from, or dreading, pulmonary disease; and to whom the sudden change from extremes of warm and cold temperature is fatally injurious. Many persons, and amongst them some with whom I am personally acquainted, emigrated solely on account of the benefit which they expected they might derive from the superior climate; and in every instance have their wishes been realized. Persons who may be, in other respects, disappointed with the country, and who make public their dissatisfaction, cannot find fault with the climate, which, were it possible, they would seek to condemn.

Since the arrival of the colony only one death has occurred from a contagious disorder, and none from immediate pulmonary affections. The few deaths which have taken place, have either been caused by accidental injuries, or by the natural decay of age. The life which a settler leads in a newly-settled country, the exposure to which he must be subject on his first arrival, and his many subsequent hardships, would, it might be thought, undermine the health of

CLIMATE.

a person who had so lately been accustomed to every comfort in a civilized country; but far from having this effect, it is quite the reverse; and every one, especially those most actively employed, owns to an improvement of health since his departure from England.

During a residence of two years and a half in New Zealand and the Chatham Islands, much of which time was spent in exploring the country, in all seasons, and at times out for as long a period as two months, sleeping nightly in the open air, – I never experienced a day's illness; but, on the contrary, found the life beneficial in general effect. The Company's surveyors, whose life is almost wholly spent in the bush, and who often pursue their vocation in all weathers, are amongst the healthiest and most robust men in the colony.

The climate is not more healthy than it is pleasant. In the summer season, which may be said to last for eight months, the weather is particularly fine, while even then it is never oppressively hot. The thermometer in the middle of summer ranges between 65 and 75 degrees, rarely exceeding the latter, and in winter seldom falls below 40 degrees.

Many persons who have written on New Zealand have described the climate as being too humid. These persons, I find, are, without exception, those who have visited the islands after a residence in New South Wales or Australia; and to whom the contrast of the moisture of New Zealand to the dry climate which they have been accustomed to, appears very great.

I do not consider New Zealand to possess a more rainy, or tempestuous climate than England. There is certainly in the winter a rainy season, lasting, with

HIGH WINDS AND CONSEQUENT SALUBRITY.

occasional intermission, for several weeks; but in the summer and autumn there is much delightful weather. I have remarked that in these seasons the rain but seldom falls during the day; between midnight and sunrise being the general time of its occurrence. I cannot say that this is yet an established fact; but during one summer which I spent on the Hokianga and Kaipara rivers, and the ensuing one in Port Nicholson, it was certainly apparent. Notwithstanding the diminution of rain during the summer, the streams, which are very numerous in all parts of the country, never fail, partly in consequence of the heavy dews which fall at night, and partly the moisture which is at all times preserved in the forest, and about the hilly land.

It cannot be denied that some parts of the New Zealand coast are especially subject to heavy winds, and in that respect will vie with the coasts of England. The complaints, however, which have been made on this subject, are all from persons who have lived in the populous towns or inland counties of England, and who in New Zealand never penetrated the country to a distance of five miles from the beach of Wellington. I am positive in the assertion, that the towns of Wellington and New Plymouth are not more subject to boisterous winds than any towns on the English coast equally exposed in situation. It is true, however, that wind is a more serious inconvenience to such people in a recently formed settlement than in a regularly built English town.

I am equally sure of the truth of the statement, that the wind in Port Nicholson is never so violent as to do material injury to a field of corn; it would, however, be a matter of prudence in the settler, for several seasons, when clearing land, to leave a belt

HIGH WINDS AND CONSEQUENT SALUBRITY.

of forest round his section, should he have chosen it near the coast.

The inconvenience of the exposure to the wind, which is felt in Port Nicholson and New Plymouth, is more than compensated by the extraordinary salubrity which it produces. The effect of the influence of the sun, during summer, upon the perpetually decomposing mass of vegetation under the New Zealand forest, would, were it not for the continual agitation of the atmosphere, be most pernicious to health, and, probably, cause the climate of New Zealand to be as injurious as that of Java or Sierra Leone. A physician, who went out in charge of one of the Company's first emigrant ships declared, on the occurrence of the first gale after his arrival, that the wind would oblige him to leave the country, as his business would there be nearly useless. He has since, however, been induced to follow the more productive branch of his profession, and in that capacity is in the colony a most useful member of society.

The effect of the equability of the climate is most conspicuous in the rapid development of vegetable life, and its constant progress. I have seen on many of the trees and shrubs, indigenous to the country, every stage of yearly vegetation appearing at one time; the leaf, bud, flower, fruit, and decayed leaf were each, seemingly, in their natural state, and without any appearance of defect. During the two winter months of June and July nature seems in more repose than at other times; but even then there is no suspension of vegetable life.

The perpetual verdure of the forest, and the uxuriance of vegetation, which is at all times conspicuous in the New Zealand Islands, must be accepted, even

HILLY CHARACTER OF THE COUNTRY.

by the most prejudiced, as a sufficient proof of the absence of that severity of climate, the effects of which are occasionally so disastrous in Europe, and elsewhere.

New Zealand is undoubtedly a hilly country. It exceeds Great Britain in superficial area, yet probably does not contain more available land than England alone; but all this available land is good, and the quantity will be sufficient for the wants of the colony for a long period. The hill country in New Zealand is at the same time far from being useless; it is always preferred by the natives for their plantations of potatoe and maize, and yields by hand labour, a good return. Throughout the various parts of New Zealand which I have visited, I have seen but little land, with the exception of the snowy summits, which would not produce the vine and olive, as well as in Italy or Switzerland, all the hills being covered with rich mould, which at present gives root to the loftiest forest trees. Between the mountain ranges the vallies extend parallel with them; and are generally covered with a soil of alluvial deposit, which is productive in the extreme.

The general extension of the mountain ranges is in one direction, namely, from north to south. This peculiarity is particularly observable about the southern part of the north island; in the Port Nicholson country, it will materially facilitate the means of communication by roads along the extent of the island.

The whole appearance of the country, physically and geologically, impresses one with the idea of its very recent formation. The effects of volcanic agency, which are everywhere apparent, together with the

VOLCANIC FORMATION OF THE SOIL.

circumstance of the existence, at present, of active volcanoes, with the occurrence of earthquakes, add much to the probability of this opinion; and the total absence of any indigenous quadruped and reptile,2 together with the small number of freshwater fish, seems almost to confirm its truth.

New Zealand is probably more similar in character to Scotland, than it is to any other European country, being, like it, mountainous, at the same time that it contains much beautiful and fertile level land. No country in the world can have a greater number of fine harbours, or be better watered; while but few can vie with it in equability and temperature of climate.

The geology of New Zealand, is even now but little known; and it is impossible to say whether the country contains valuable minerals or not. Of the existence of precious metals, there have been found but few indications. Copper ore was discovered by Dr. Dieffenbach; and, in many parts of the country, the magnetic sand near the sides of rivers, proves that the stream has washed ferreous matter. But these signs cannot be stated as indicative of the existence of those metals in quantity.

New Zealand being for the most part covered either with forest or with high fern and flax, its superficial soil, as I have before mentioned, is generally of vegetable formation. The country, in every part, displays conspicuously the action of water; and in all the vallies the subsoil appears of alluvial origin.

ADAPTATION OF THE SOIL

Around the various active and extinct volcanoes, and especially in the Taranaki and Taupo districts, the country is covered with a rich volcanic soil, which is very fertile.

The land most productive to the farmer, is certainly that which has been covered with forest; but this is objectionable to many, on account of the outlay which is necessary for bringing it into cultivation. It was expected in the colony, by persons acquainted with agriculture, that in consequence of the soil being formed by the decay of continually accumulating vegetable matter, and which would not, as in countries where the fall of the leaf was periodical, be subject to the necessary fermentation in decomposition, it would be too rank for the immediate cultivation of corn; and the great height of stalk in the wheat grown in the valley up the Hutt induced many to conclude, before the ear appeared, that it would entirely run to stalk. In this, however, they were mistaken, and the crop was in every way satisfactory. It is, however, considered best to plant new ground with potatoes before corn. The soil, under low and stunted fern, is generally, as the paucity of vegetation would indicate, unproductive. Land of this nature is, however, only to be met with in exposed places, or near the sea-shore. Where the country is covered with high fern and flax, as in the Nelson, Wanganui, Patea, and a part of the Taranaki districts, and in the Chatham islands, the soil is almost as rich as that under the forest; and on account of its being more easily cleared, is preferred, by many settlers, for immediate cultivation.

New Zealand, from its possession of a rich and fertile soil, a sufficiently moist atmosphere, and a mild climate, has every requisite for the successful

FOR PRODUCING GRAIN.

practice of all European agricultural and pastoral pursuits. Experience has now shown that all kinds of grain, vegetables and fruits grown in England, flourish equally well in that country; and that many fruits, for which the English climate is too severe, may there be cultivated with success.

That the soil is pre-eminently of that nature suitable for the production of grain, cannot now be doubted, as the specimens already obtained prove that, with but little attention being paid to its culture, wheat especially will thrive. Wheat grown in the valley of the River Hutt, was of the first quality, and has been pronounced excellent by competent judges in England. It was grown on rank ground which had just been cleared, and from being planted in the wrong season, was not expected to turn out well. For some time, as I have just stated, it was feared that it would run to stalk, from the great height of the straw; but with the straw between five and six feet in height, the ear was in length as many inches.

Oats, also, flourish in Port Nicholson, and may be seen growing wild in many of the deserted potatoe grounds. Of the other kinds of grain I have met with no specimen in Port Nicholson, but I remember having seen before the house of one of the missionaries in the Hokianga country a fine field of nearly ripe barley, the state of which was fully satisfactory to the owner.

It is certain that before long New Zealand will supply the Australian colonies with wheat; the climate of New Holland not being adapted for its culture, in consequence of the excessive drought to which it is liable. The South American States now export grain and flour to Sydney and Van Dieman's Land, but that from New Zealand will, of course,

CAPABILITIES OF THE SOIL.

forestall it in the market, through the smaller expense of shipment, and by taking the Australian staple in return.

All kinds of English vegetables grow equally well at Port Nicholson. On our first arrival at Cook's Straits, we found gardens at all the whaling establishments; poultry was also numerous, and although the people engaged at those places were not generally much acquainted with either agriculture or gardening, the devotion of a small portion of their time to those pursuits, aided by the richness of the ground, had enabled some of them to have many of the more substantial comforts of the English table.

At Port Nicholson, turnips, carrots, brocoli, cabbages, peas, beans, and, in fact, all garden produce, has been cultivated with success. Turnips have for a length of time been grown in the native plantations, together with maize, pumpkins, melons, and the indigenous Polynesian vegetable, "Taro." Great quantities of maize have been exported to Sydney from all parts of the islands; and that, together with the potatoe, is still collected at the various harbours and rivers for the Australian market.

Potatoes planted in the English method, upon cleared forest land, have yielded 14 tons per acre, and in the native way, putting stumps or roots whole in ground which is not cleared, 10 tons. At the Chatham Islands the soil is richer, and 16 tons can be obtained. The native method of culture is very defective. They never plant the "eye" separately, but reserve the very smallest of the produce for the next year's seed, and not unfrequently depend on what remains in the ground, after a negligent search, for the ensuing year's crop. They also only plant

CAPABILITIES OF THE SOIL.

between the stumps in their clearing, which is still encumbered with trunks and branches of the fallen trees. They, nevertheless, always get abundant crops, and consequently think that the attention which they see the English pay to their fields is unnecessary trouble. The native turnip has increased in size, but degenerated in quality, since its introduction, in consequence of neglect of culture. The quantity, however, yielded by the land, is always good. Several specimens of giant cabbages have been produced from land near Wellington, and the size of one grown in Robinson Bay, close to the beach of the harbour, would have, in England, obtained it the premium of an horticultural society. Peas thrive remarkably well, and ripen during ten months of the year. The smaller kinds of garden stuff can, also, be had at almost any season.

All English fruit-trees may be grown in New Zealand. From a few peach and apricot stones that had been planted in the northern parts of the island, there are now great numbers of those trees growing wild about the Hokianga and Bay of Islands. They have also been said to grow wild at Taranaki, but of the truth of this I am not certain. Notwithstanding the short period of the establishment of the colony at Port Nicholson, there were when I left that place, many fruit-trees in blossom, most of which had been obtained from Sydney.

The vines taken from England were looking well, but their proper cultivation was not understood. In the garden of a timber merchant residing on the Hokianga, I noticed 106 different species of vines, which included all the most celebrated in Europe; and they all appear to be flourishing. In the same garden were all the English fruits, – pears, cherries,

CAPABILITIES OF THE SOIL.

plums, gooseberries, both "Cape" and common currants, raspberries, and mulberries, growing in the utmost profusion. The flower garden, also, certainly rivalled many of the most beautiful in England.

To prove the extraordinary productiveness of the soil even in places where it should be least expected, I need only mention the circumstance that on the day of my departure from Wellington, I saw in the garden of a poor man on the beach, strawberries, with ripe fruit, growing in the sand, within ten paces of the sea. I may also mention having seen pumpkins, maize, and melons growing in the sandy soil of the beach of Thorndon, ere that place was chosen as the site of Wellington. English flax, or linseed, is also to be seen growing in a similar soil near the mouth of the Hutt.

Another proof of the capabilities of the soil and climate in New Zealand is afforded by the fact of several agriculturists, who had originally farmed in New South Wales, having preferred the first mentioned country, and settled themselves near Port Nicholson. One gentleman, in particular,3 who is now cultivating and improving land with great spirit near Wellington, had for a long time been resident in the interior of Australia, until, finding his farm ruined by the drought, he left that place in disgust, and settled in Port Nicholson with the first colonists, where he has now every prospect of success in his agricultural pursuits.

The gentlemen from the neighbouring colonies

GRAZING DISTRICTS.

who have settled in Wellington, have shown an excellent example of spirit and energy to those more recently arrived from England. They know the difficulties which are to be combated in all new settlements, and are not daunted by the sight of a Government prohibition, or a hilly district, – by a Colonial Secretary, or a forest.

The advantages possessed by New Zealand as a grazing country have been hitherto under-rated. Experience has shown that cattle thrive remarkably well in all parts of the country – even in the forest; and the discovery of tracts of open land in the interior, shows that depasturage may be carried on upon a large scale.

About the south side of Mount Egmont, between it and the coast, in the Patea, Wanganui, and Manewatu districts are found the best grazing grounds in the north island. The nearest open country to Port Nicholson is that of Wairarapa at the head of Palliser Bay, and which is, to the northward, connected with all the districts above named. On the middle island the Nelson country seems the best suited for grazing. It is, according to the statements of the natives, connected with the Lookers-on, Port Cooper, and Molineux Harbour plains; all of which are open, and covered principally with grass and herbage. At Port Nicholson the cattle turned out about the town are all in good condition, although on importation they are generally far otherwise. The leaf of the "Kraka" laurel is their favourite food, and a good supply of this will cause even a cow in stall to yield much milk. On the island of Kapiti, in Cook's Strait, which is one of the most hilly and densely wooded spots in the country, cattle have for some time been wild. A bull and a cow were originally

GRAZING DISTRICTS.

left there by a Sydney coasting vessel, and the increase from them is now considerable. On this island there is not an acre of grass land. At Porirua Bay, in the vicinity of Port Nicholson, and at Cloudy Bay, and Akaroa, on the middle island, cattle have been left by the New South Wales people for the purpose of breeding, which shows that the country is considered by them to be adapted for the support of herds.

The island of Mana, which stands in Cook's Straits, almost opposite the entrance of the Porirua harbour, has for years been a sheep farm, owned by a Sydney merchant. And although this island is exposed to all the violence of the north-west and south-east gales, its situation has not been found to be in any way detrimental to the flocks on it. The wool obtained from the sheep was pronounced, in New South Wales, to be very fine, and the quantity obtained from one animal, namely 9 lbs., is nearly double what is got in that country.

The advantages of depasturing large flocks and herds in a new colony cannot be too highly spoken of or appreciated, as it yields a profitable, sure, and quick return for the quantity of capital invested. The effect of grazing, in the early stages of a settlement, is to render the population less completely dependent on agricultural success than it would be without it; and while it only requires a small proportion of labour, yields at all times one of the most necessary articles of subsistence at a low price, causing at the same time much of the wealth of the colony to be circulated in it, instead of being drained off by the purchase of foreign imports.

Of the principal articles which New Zealand does

PHORMIUM TENAX.

at present, or is shortly likely to export, the flax is certainly the most important. It is found in every part of the country, and flourishes alike in dry or swampy ground. No pains have ever yet been taken in its culture; and indeed but little are necessary, so luxuriant is it in its wild state. The form of the plant is very different to that of the European flax; it resembles the "flag" or "iris" in shape, but is much larger in growth. Some which I saw on the river banks in the Nelson country, measured fourteen feet in length, with a breadth in the leaf of six inches. Allowing one bush to have about a hundred leaves, it will occupy a square of six feet of superficial area, or 1210 plants will cover an acre. It is not, however, probable that the largest species of flax would be cultivated; as that of smaller growth, which is found on high land, has a greater proportion of the fibre to the vegetable substance which surrounds it, and is more easily dressed. Of the smaller kind, about 2,500 plants would cover the acre. As Mr. Petre's recently published work on the New Zealand settlements contains an able calculation of the produce of flax farms, together with an account of all that had been done in Port Nicholson, towards discovering a successful method of preparing the fibre, I shall only mention a few circumstances which have fallen under my notice, relating to its growth and capabilities.

An idea of the quantity of fibre contained in one leaf, may be obtained from the mention of the fact, that I have seen a native prepare and twist the hemp of one leaf, of the largest kind, into a cord ten feet in length, and of the thickness of a pencil. Since my return to England, I have had an opportunity of trying the strength of a piece of New Zealand cord, brought to England by a gentleman

PHORMIUM TENAX, OR FLAX PLANT.

who accompanied Flinders in his voyage of discovery; and which I found to be equal to that of a piece of new English string of the same size.

The best flax districts in the estimation of the natives, are near to the sea-shore; and, according to their accounts, it grows finest at Taranaki, and along the shore of the Strait to Port Nicholson. The most luxuriant growth of the plant which I have seen, was at the head of Tasman's Gulf, in the country now occupied by the Nelson settlement; which in my idea is the finest flax district in New Zealand. At the last-mentioned place, on account of the country being of an open nature, and abundantly watered, it is met with in very great quantity. The hill flax is met with on the steepest and most exposed part of the coast, where the soil is not of sufficient depth to produce any other kinds of vegetation; and in consequence of this, its culture and exportation will cause a value to become attached to land which would be otherwise worthless.

The manufacture of the flax has already commenced in Wellington; and many vessels have been supplied with cordage, &c., from it.4 Several country sections have been chosen on the sea-coast near Port Nicholson for flax farms, on land that would not, from its exposed situation, produce grain, or be adapted to general agriculture.

The great want now, is the application of a successful method for preparing and packing the flax; and I cannot suppress my desire to see some attempt made in England to supply this deficiency. If proper

PHORMIUM TENAX, OR FLAX PLANT.

attention could be attracted to this subject, it is more than probable that some efficient plan would speedily be devised, by means of which the colony would at once become independent of the success of other branches of agriculture; and by opening an immediate trade between it and the mother country, would make a quicker progress towards that completeness of settlement, and substantial prosperity, at which other colonies have been comparatively long in arriving.

2Dr. Dieffenbach discovered on the island of Otea, in August last, a species of guana or large lizard; the only testimony of whose existence had before been in the native traditions. Its length is twenty inches, and its colour is a light green.

3James Watt, Esq., who merits the praise of his fellow-colonists in having been the first, although a stranger, to commence farming in Port Nicholson; which was then done at considerable expense and risk.

4By an Auckland newspaper, lately arrived, I find that two tons of rope of various sizes had been made at Kaipara, and forwarded to the former place for sale.

[Chapter IV]

CHAPTER IV.

CLIMATE, SOIL, AND NATURAL PRODUCTIONS.(continued).

NEXT to the flax, the local fisheries demand particular attention, as at present they yield almost the only article of export from the colony. The quantity of oil obtained at the different shore stations in New Zealand is very great, although, in consequence of its first passing through the Sydney market, and being thence shipped for England, it does not appear here as a large export of New Zealand. During the last season more than 1800 tons of oil, and 70 tons of bone were obtained at the various fisheries in New Zealand: the worth of this in England would not be less than 54,800l. Unfortunately for the New Zealand colonists, the principal part of this trade is at present in the hands of the Sydney merchants, to whom most of the fishing stations belong; but the Port Nicholson people will soon possess themselves of it, in consequence of the facility of competition which is afforded by the expense of one shipment only being necessary.

It is generally imagined in England, that the fisheries on the New Zealand coast are declining, and that ere long the trade will cease to be profitable. This idea is erroneous. There can be no doubt

WHALE FISHERY.

of the fact, that fewer whales are taken at some of the stations than was the case formerly; but this is no proof that a less number frequent the coast. The establishment of so many whaling parties along the coast causes such competition amongst them, that there are actually more "fish" caught now than at any other period since the commencement of the enterprize. As a proof, in measure, of this I may mention that the value of the oil exported from Sydney was, in 1830, 59,471l.; in 1835, 180,349l.; and in 1840, 224,144l., which proves an increase of nearly four times the quantity and value. As I have mentioned, much of this oil is obtained at New Zealand, probably more than half; indeed, there are but few fisheries, comparatively, on the Australian shores, and the number of whaling vessels fitted out there is small.

It must be remembered that beside what is obtained at the local fisheries, much oil is taken by the American, French, and Dutch whalers which cruize on the coast. These have been for a long time, and indeed continue, a source of much annoyance and injury to the English in the trade. As many as fifteen foreign whale-ships have lain at one time at the entrance of Cloudy Bay, intercepting the whales as they come in towards the shore. In the other bays, for instance Queen Charlotte's Sound, Pegasus Bay, and Southern Port, the shore stations were under the same disadvantages, but were notwithstanding able to continue the pursuit with profit. A law for the protection of the British fisheries has lately been made by the colonial government, prohibiting foreign vessels from capturing whales within three leagues of the shore. The prohibition is, however, but little respected by those to whom it was intended to apply,

WHALE FISHERY.

and they still remain in the bays pursuing their avocations with impunity, knowing that there is no chance of their seizure.

The very irregular manner in which the shore stations have been conducted, – their entire dependence on distant settlements for the necessaries of their existence, – and the insubordination of those engaged in them, who, being generally of the lowest class of runaway sailors and escaped convicts, have but little idea of the mutual benefit of combination and concert in their actions, – has caused the fisheries to prove far less profitable than they would have done, had they been carried on in a more efficient manner. It is to be hoped that some system will be adopted, and vigorously enforced, for the protection of the British interests, which will prevent the final extirpation of the whales in those seas, and cause the fishery long to continue a source of wealth to the colony.

After the flax and oil, the New Zealand timber claims attention, both as an article of colonial trade and local use.

Much of the celebrated Kauri pine has been exported to England, and from its elasticity, durability, and size, is unequalled in its adaptation for masting, &c. The Board of Admiralty contract for its delivery in the various dock-yards, and have sent many government storeships to New Zealand to obtain cargoes of it. The tree is really of noble appearance, and in many instances of stupendous growth; the length most in request for naval purposes is about 80 feet, and the spars sent to England generally average that size. Some logs which I have measured were, however, perfectly straight for 100 feet in length, and 30 inches in the square at the

VARIETIES OF TIMBER.

narrow end; which is a size but rarely met with in Russian or American timber.

The Kauri trade has been for a long time a source of great profit, in consequence of the expense of obtaining it being very trifling in comparison to the price at which it is shipped. The missionaries have dealt largely in this article; and some of their number finding the trade more profitable than their other avocations, have resigned their clerical profession, and engaged wholly in the business.

I had opportunities of witnessing the manner in which this timber is obtained by those parties for shipment, and the great profit which must accrue to the occupation are very apparent. Having selected a forest on the banks of a navigable river, the dealer immediately employs a number of natives to fell and square the best timber, for which, on its delivery at the merchants' dock, they are remunerated with clothing, powder, or a double-barrelled gun. The average cost of a spar to the dealer is thus about 3/.; when shipped it is worth from 20l. to 30l: and although, through neglect, much valuable timber gets lost or spoiled, the profits of the dealer are immense.

Next to the Kauri, the various sorts of red and white pine are of much value, by being suited for all building and ornamental purposes.

The wood most used in house-building is the Kahikatea (white pine), which is much esteemed for the ease with which it is worked, as well as for its fine texture. The tree is of a moderate height, and, from its dark hanging foliage, has a very beautiful appearance in the forest. The Bukitea is also used for building; it is of a darker colour, and rather a softer nature than the preceding. Spars of both these

VARIETIES OF TIMBER.

timbers have been used for the masts and yards of shipping; but it is asserted that the heart of the spar rapidly decays on exposure. It is, however, very probable that in the event of attention being paid to felling in the proper season, and stacking, both these woods, and especially the Kahikatea, might be found fitted for more extensive use in shipping.

The red pines are the Totara , Towa , Mahi , and Rata , all of which are close-grained, and moderately hard. They are used principally for interior work, in house-building, and for furniture-making. They are all of a red colour, and when oiled and polished are very ornamental. The Totara and Mahi are, more particularly, used in cabinet-making, and form very good substitutes for mahogany. All these red firs make good spars for ships, and are frequently used by vessels visiting the settlements. The Towa spars are considered the best for this purpose. The fore-yard of the Tory , a 400 ton ship, was made from a green towa spar obtained in Queen Charlotte's Sound, which stood many severe tests without sustaining any injury. The Lady Nugent , emigrant ship, procured top-masts and lower-yards of the Towa , when in Port Nicholson. The America and Triton likewise used them, as did also the Bailey , Jervis , and Kate schooners, and the Hannah and St. Maria brigantines. The only fault of this wood is its weight, but in that respect it is less objectionable than the teak which is used for the masts of all Indian-built vessels. All the spars used in the ships above-named, were green, and would soon lose much of their weight by exposure.

The red pines are all of large growth. In the Karori and Porirua valleys, near Wellington, I

VARIETIES OF TIMBER.

have counted as many as fifty trees from one spot, that would each furnish a top-mast for the largest merchant-ship. The woods most used in ship-building are the red firs, and especially the Totara and Rata. The Ruva-ruva, or honeysuckle, is mostly used for the timbers and other parts requiring great strength.

The other forest trees have been described with sufficient minuteness in other works. They are all valuable for building purposes, and are much diversified in nature and appearance.

A great quantity of sawn plank is annually exported to the Australian colonies from New Zealand ; and it is certain that the trade will increase, as in New Holland and Van Dieman's Land there is little wood to be obtained but the blue and white gums and the ironbark, – all of which are too hard for the ordinary purposes of building.

There are many natural productions of the country which are likely to prove of importance, that are even at present but little known. One of these is the oil of the Pitoku berry, which is of very fine quality, and much used by the natives in anointing their hair. It is a sweet and pleasantly-tasting oil, and may be used for all purposes to which olive-oil is applicable. The berry is small, of a brown colour, and very unctuous, with but little taste as a fruit. The tree is wild in every part of New Zealand. The Towa and the Kraka berries also yield an useful oil, but not in such quantity as that first mentioned. The turpentine tree is likewise very common in the neighbourhood of Port Nicholson. A considerable quantity of the gum which I obtained by tapping the trees, was very strong in flavour, and beautifully transparent. The cultivation and tending of this tree

ESCULENT FRUITS.

might be easily learned by the natives, and the produce would, probably, prove of great importance.

The Kauri produces large quantities of a resinous gum, which is very hard, transparent, and tasteless. It has been stated that this rosin is only soluble by means of heat, and is not suited for the manufacture of varnish, polish, &c. It is very requisite that more should be learned on this subject, as from the quantity in which it is to be obtained, and its apparent advantages in colour and transparency, it will, I think be found, if sufficiently tested and experimentalized, to be of more value than is now supposed. 5

The barks of many of the New Zealand trees possess tannen in considerable quantity; and I was assured by a person well acquainted with the preparation of hides, that portions of the barks of several trees with which he had made experiments, had yielded enough for all tanning purposes.

New Zealand possesses but few indigenous fruits; but all the European fruit-trees which have been introduced, flourish in a most extraordinary manner.

The first of the indigenous esculent fruits is the Kia-kia . It grows on a parasitical plant of the same name; and in form much resembles the pineapple. Its taste is very agreeable and cool, and could, no doubt, be still much improved by cultivation.

The Kraka fruit has been often described. In no respect will it bear comparison with the preceding, and its taste is but seldom relished by any but

FLOWERING SHRUBS.

natives; they, however, prize it highly. Their way of preparing the nut is remarkable. Although the external part of the fruit is fit for eating, the kernel is a most deadly poison until after having been steeped in running water for many weeks. To prepare it for use, the natives, therefore, dam considerable quantities of it in the streams, and when by this process rendered fit for eating, they esteem it a nutritious and healthful food. It is remarkable that in their method of preparing this nut should consist the only similarity in customs between the aborigines of the Chatham Islands and those of New Zealand.

The pulpy part of the middle of the stem of the Tawara or Astilia is an excellent substitute in pastry for the apple; it however cannot be eaten unless first cooked.

There are several berries of pleasant taste, but not deserving the name of fruit. From the Tupaki berry the natives make a wine, which in taste is exactly similar to that of the elder.

New Zealand is singular in possessing but few flowering shrubs, but those that are indigenous are of much beauty. The flower of the Rata pine is truly splendid, and in the summer season the tree, which is one of the largest in the forest, is covered with blossom like a geranium. The flower, in appearance, much resembles that of the scarlet "camellia," and certainly equals it in beauty.

The Tree Fuchsia (Fuchsia exorticata ) is generally about thirty feet in height, and not unlike the weeping willow in general appearance. It is always found by the side of a stream, and generally bending over it. The flower is much larger than that of the

VARIETIES OF BIRDS.

species seen in Europe, but the colours are hardly so pure and bright. It is nevertheless a very beautiful flower.

There are two other plants which bear a most beautiful blossom. They are both parasitical, and the flower may often be seen at the height of eighty feet from the ground: the flower is large and starlike in form, and the plant belongs to the Clematis class. The colours are in the one white, and in the other yellow; and the plants would, from their beauty, greatly ornament an English garden, in which, I am of opinion, it could easily be reared.

The dwarf Manuka , or "tea-tree," concludes the list of flowering plants. Its blossom is pretty but insignificant, and resembles the hawthorn more than any other English flower: the colour is white, with pink stamina. The infusion of the leaf of this plant forms an excellent substitute for tea: the taste is agreeable, and the effect slightly narcotic. It is much used as a beverage at the whaling stations. A cane, the Kawa-kawa , or pepper-tree, similar to the Otaheitan Kara , is also occasionally used in the place of tea: the taste is pleasant and very aromatic. It is likewise a narcotic in effect, and medicinally is esteemed a purgative. These two plants, together with the fern root, which is a mild astringent, are of much dietary service in the "bush," and one soon becomes reconciled to their taste.

All the New Zealand forests abound with birds of beautiful variety of form and plumage. It is unnecessary here to notice them in detail, as they have been often before scientifically described. They are of great service, as an article of food, to the settler on his clearing, where he is often in but little communication with the town. While on exploring and sur-

VARIETIES OF BIRDS.

veying expeditions in the interior of the country, I have often had occasion to appreciate their existence.

Those of most service for the table are the various kinds of water-fowl, and the parrot and wood pigeon. The paradise and common duck, teal, widgeon, water-hen, and diver, are all found in great numbers on the rivers; they, however, soon leave the immediate vicinity of the towns, but remain in the adjacent country; and the settler on his farm can always obtain a sufficiency of them for his daily wants.

The wood-pigeon is in New Zealand very large – far above the size of that in England. The plumage of the bird is very beautiful, and the flesh is excellent. I have not unfrequently killed a dozen of them from one tree, so little alarm do they show at the report of a gun. The flesh of the parrot is esteemed, in flavour, to be nearly equal to that of the pigeon: they are found in great numbers in every part of the country. All the other forest birds, and their numbers and variety are immense, are eatable, and generally of excellent flavour and delicacy.

Two new species of birds have been recently discovered, of which no description has before been given. The principal is the Weka , an Apterix, termed by some of the settlers the "Ground Pheasant." It is but little larger than the partridge, which in some respects it resembles. It is remarkable in being unable to raise itself from the ground, through the smallness of its wings, which are only of assistance to it in running. The other bird is the quail. No mention has been made of this but in the latest accounts; it has recently been found at Banks'

FISHES.

Peninsula, and also in great numbers in the open country of the Nelson district. At Taranake it has likewise been seen, but is rarely met with in the north island. In appearance it is precisely similar to the European species.

Of the fish which abound on the coast, but little has been written. They are in great abundance in every bay or inlet, and a good supply can always be obtained by the settlers.

Amongst those esteemed the most, the Abuka ranks first. It is generally of great size, but the flesh is of much delicacy of flavour. A considerable quantity of it is cured at the whaling stations for winter provision, and is very fine. I have seen this fish being carried along the beach of Wellington, on a pole, borne by two natives, who found its weight fully equal to their united strength. Next to the Abuka in size, as also in richness of flavour, is the Moki , varieties of which are of all sizes, the largest weighing about 30 lbs. This fish also cures well.

The Kawai , or New Zealand salmon, is esteemed by many as equal to the European species in excellence; it is of the same size, and much resembles it in appearance and taste. Great numbers of them are found in rivers into which the tide flows, but none are met with in fresh water. The native method of catching this fish is singular, and worthy of notice. A hook made of bone, with a piece of the glistening shell of the "mutton fish" attached to it, but without any farther bait, is trailed at a short distance behind a canoe, which is being paddled with the greatest possible speed. The resemblance of the piece of shell, in its rapid motion along the surface, to a small

INDIGENOUS FISH.

fish, causes the salmon to seize it with great avidity, and immense numbers are thus caught. 6

The "barracouta" is much esteemed, as is likewise the "snapper." The latter is found of large size and in great quantity in all shoal water. The bream, ling, gurnard, herring, sole, rock-cod, and a species of mackarel, are all in abundance, as are also many fish unknown elsewhere.

In the fresh-water rivers and streams, a fish resembling the bull-trout is to be met with at times, and which rises readily at a bait. From having missed these fish from the streams in the winter season, I imagine them to be migratory. The fresh-water eel is much larger than the European species, and of greater richness in flavour. In Burnham water, near Wellington, and in the Maitai stream at Nelson, they are, fortunately, to be caught in plenty.

In the various settlements of the Company about Cook's Straits an abundance of fish can at all times be procured; and this is of much service when the price of other fresh provisions is high. Shell-fish are also in great quantity on every part of the New Zealand coast. At Wellington there is always a good supply of cray-fish, oyster and giant mussell, which the natives obtain on the adjacent shore of the Strait.

The curing of fish will, no doubt, soon become an important and profitable occupation in the Company's settlements, as there is every facility for it at present existing; and in South America will always be found a ready market. It is an employment to which the natives would industriously apply themselves.

5I may mention that I have seen, in this country, some varnish said to have been made from the Kauri gum; it appeared to be of a very good quality.

6The appearance of a fleet of canoes on the Wanganui river, engaged in this fishery, together with the rejoicing of the tribe at its successful termination, has been already described by Mr. E. J. Wakefield, in his Journal of a visit to that district, with much spirit and vivacity.

[Chapter V]

CHAPTER V.

NATIVE INHABITANTS.

ONE of the greatest benefits which have attended the colonization of New Zealand, is the moral change which has been effected in the native character,

On arriving in the country, a stranger, who had not made himself acquainted with the later history of its population, would scarcely be able to recognize, in the natives who crowd around to welcome his landing, the fierce and resentful savages described by the early navigators, so completely has civilization spread its influence on their character.

The New Zealanders have been gradually improving since the first visits of Europeans. I deny that the irregular settlement of many parts of the country by white people has had, in any way, a demoralizing influence on the aborigines. The natives living about the whaling stations are generally the best informed, and have been able to profit by the introduction of European improvements, while they rejected the attendant evils. From continued intercourse with the people composing the whaling parties (who are generally of the lowest order, and who in their dealings with the other race seldom behave conscientiously), the natives in the vicinity of those settlements

ERRONEOUS SYSTEM OF THE MISSIONARIES.

have, however, acquired a certain degree of cunning which is not to be met with elsewhere, except in the neighbourhood of the missionary establishments, in the northern part of the islands, where they treat a stranger with a suspicious caution which is never observable amongst the more neglected tribes.

It is a circumstance much to be deplored, that in the system pursued by the missionaries, – I mean the Church Missionaries, who have the eastern shore, – for the conversion and improvement of the natives, it was considered prudent to prejudice the minds of the latter against the rest of the white population, as well as against any systematic settlement of their country by English.

I do not, however, wish it to be thought, from my expression of regret at the system which they have pursued, that I consider the missionaries to have been unserviceable to the aborigines. On the contrary, I estimate the good which they have done as about the same which would have resulted from the settlement, for the same period, of a like number of respectable settlers of various avocations; with the exception, that the settlers would probably have taught the natives many useful arts, and introduced industry amongst them, which the missionaries have not. The only way in which the missionaries have aided the efforts made in the colonization of New Zealand, has been in the endeavours made by Mr. Williams, on behalf of Captain Hobson, for the cession of the rights of sovereignty from the native chiefs to the British Crown.

The New Zealand natives in the Chatham Islands evince the same desire for the settlement of their land by white people as those in the country which they left. They, however, refuse to receive the mis-

IMPROVEMENT OF THE NATIVES.

sionaries on any account, saying, that they are useless to them in introducing no substantial improvement, and only teaching them the ritual and forms of a religion which is beyond their comprehension.

Although the irregular settlement of portions of New Zealand by whaling and trading parties has contributed materially to the civilization of the natives, in having familiarized them with white people, and in causing them to appreciate the intercourse, they have as yet derived but little real benefit from it, as their course of life and habits still remain as before.

The systematic settlement of the country has had a different effect. The native now begins to see his own defects, and seeks to remedy them; and is anxious to place himself on an equal footing with the white people by availing himself of the benefit of their improvements. As an instance of this, I may mention the circumstance of the fast disappearance of the native huts about Wellington, in consequence of their inhabitants discovering the superior comfort of more roomy houses built in the English mode. All the superior chiefs about Port Nicholson have now tolerably well-built cottages. Have the missionaries introduced a desire for the same amongst the tribes of the Bay of Islands, where they have been resident twenty-eight years?

Much of what the missionaries have endeavoured to teach the New Zealanders has had any but a good effect on them, as in many instances they have had sufficient discernment to detect the irrationality and impossibility of assertions, the truth of which the missionaries have wished them to believe. The few following instances will shew the nature of much that is taught them, and prove in what little

ABSURDITIES OF MISSIONARY TEACHING.

estimation the missionaries can hold their understanding.

An old native, from whose ear a large shark's tooth was hanging as an ornament, on being questioned by me as to the danger to which they were exposed while in the water from those animals, replied, that "the missionaries had told him that the converts need be under no apprehension of danger from them, but that the 'dewaras' (devils) or unbeliever; would certainly be devoured." On asking him whether the natives who had recently been drowned, by the upsetting of their canoe in a gale, and whose bodies had not been found, were worse than others who had escaped, he said, "Yes; that assuredly they were, for the missionaries had told him so." Although believed by this individual, the idea furnished merriment to many others, who subsequently heard it related, and who in ridicule said that they would prove themselves good men by never going near the water!

On the Tory's arrival in Port Nicholson, one of the first natives who came on board was E'Puni, the hereditary chief of the Nga te Awas . On recognising Barrett, the interpreter, his old companion, he inquired, with much concern in his manner, whether he had turned missionary, and if he had brought a missionary ship, similar to the last one which had visited the harbour. On being answered in the negative, he appeared satisfied; at the same time complaining, that the missionaries did not treat him with due respect, but called him a "devil," because he would not be converted. He founded his objections to their doctrine principally on account of the improbability of an unguarded statement which had fallen from one of them, the truth of which they were unable to substantiate. It was to the effect, that

NEGLECT OF THE MISSIONARIES

should he turn "mitonere" his father would return and see him. In reply, the old gentleman submitted, that his father had been eaten by the Waikato tribe thirty years before, and it would, consequently, be difficult for him to come to Port Nicholson. – Having made notice of this chief, I feel myself called upon to add, that in all his subsequent conduct to the settlers, he has shown that the promise of the welcome with which he would receive them, which he then made, was earnest and sincere. His dignified and gentlemanly deportment, his general unobtrusiveness of character, and mild, but discriminating disposition, have obtained him the respect and esteem of all the settlers. It is satisfactory to be able to add, that both E'Puni and his son dress in the European manner, and that in their visits to the housed of the settlers they always meet with a hospitable welcome.

The plan of the missionaries in allowing the natives to continue in their old habits of sloth, inactivity, and uncleanliness, must meet with the disapprobation of every right-minded person. The systematic neglect which they have shown in not introducing the English language in a country which they knew would be colonized from England, is equally reprehensible. Their pretended reasons are, in the one case, that by promoting industry and introducing European habits, they would be preparing them for a contact with the lower classes of white people, the effect of which would be to corrupt and demoralize them; and in the other, that the cultivation of the English language would hasten the extinction of their own tongue.

The missionaries' notion of demoralization is preposterous, as in conversation the very lowest orders

TOWARD THE ABORIGINES.

of Europeans are far more decorous than the New Zealander; and as regards the New Zealand language being lost by the introduction of another, it would be a benefit rather than an injury, as, however objectionable it may appear to the missionaries, who endeavour to make it believed at home that savages are pious, and their language poetical, the substitution of a copious and powerful language for a meagre and inexpressive one is to every nation a desideratum. It is much to be regretted that the Church Missionary Society should have generally sent out to New Zealand men of but little education and narrow views, rather than those of a more intellectual and enlightened understanding.

About Port Nicholson the natives owe but little to them; they have done nothing to ameliorate their condition in a temporal point of view. The resident Catechist at Wellington, on occasion of a recent public festivity, used his influence in preventing a canoe race, for which a prize was offered by the settlers; asserting that such an exhibition would tend to arouse the old warlike spirit and hereditary jealousy of the tribes. It appeared, however, that the real intention was to hinder the natives taking any part in the rejoicings, which were to celebrate the anniversary of the arrival of the settlers, as by the missionaries that event was not considered, in any way, propitious to the interests of the aborigines.

In consequence of the rapid diffusion of civilization over the whole of New Zealand, but little development of the true native character is now to be met with. The Taupo tribe, which is the only one in New Zealand whose locality is confined to the interior, have but little intercourse with white people, and have preserved more of the character of the pre-

TAUPO TRIBES.

ceding generation than any other tribe in the island. Their residence is between Mount Egmont and the Tonga Riro volcano, on the borders of the Taupo and Roturua lakes, and until lately no accounts have been given of them through their country having been unvisited. Their habits of life are different to those of their neighbours on the coasts, as they are pre-eminently an agricultural people, from their entire dependence on the produce of their plantations. They have the reputation of being the best bush-men in the country; and in their instinctive sagacity they approach near to the character of the Red Indian of America. They appear to be a finer and more manly race, than those which have become more familiarized with Europeans. In their fighting expeditions they divest themselves of all cumbrous articles of clothing or defence, and their costume is most strikingly appropriate to their character. It consists of a mat only, hanging from the waist, leaving the chest, shoulders, and arms bare. In the belt which confines the mat is stuck a tomahawk or "meri," which, until very lately, was their only weapon.

The following sketch of a scene which took place on the Wanganui river, (on occasion of the fighting men of Taupo having come down to the coast to avenge themselves on the Waitotara tribes for having detained the remains of their relations slain in battle) given in a private journal by Mr. E. J. Wakefield, is so peculiarly graphic, and presents so lively and authentic a picture, that I have been induced to quote it.

"Feb. 20th, 1841. – Starting at day-break, we ascended the river about six miles, when a cry was raised to keep the canoes close together; and in this order, with perhaps fifty canoes and 300 people of all ages and both sexes, we doubled a point, and came in full view of the Ngatepahi encampment. From the edge

TAUPO WAR EXPEDITION.

of a bank, rising very steep for forty feet from the eastern shore, the ground was cleared of wood, and rose gradually in the form of an amphitheatre, backed by a forest. The warriors were disposed in rows about this cleared space, according to their tribes and families, each with his musket or two-barrelled fowling-piece. After a few shots had been fired from our flotilla, by way of greeting, I saw a chief running up and down making a speech to the others, and immediately they answered by a regular discharge of musketry, backwards and forwards along each row, which lasted for nearly five minutes. I was much surprised to find them so well armed; each man had a musket, some two, and slaves to carry them. Our party all encamped, exactly opposite to them, and some time passed in silence. Some of the Ngateruaka canoes pushed on to Puketuka, which is but a few-miles further up. In the course of an hour, during which I was much amused by the perseverance of a Taupo dog, which kept earning presents of tobacco for its master, by swimming across the river and back, the chiefs of Patatokata tribes, attended by all their people, pushed across to see their relations. They had dressed themselves out in what they considered 'full fig.' Many of the men were dressed a 1'Europeenne, with the exception of shoes and stockings; several of the women wore caps or bonnets, adorned with gaudy ribbons and albatross feathers; and those that had neither gown nor other European luxury to show, of which there were but few, donned their cleanest blankets or mat. The missionaries and myself also went over. A tangi by all hands lasted nearly an hour, during which I walked about the encampment, and could not help admiring the well-formed limbs and clean skins of these natives, compared with most of those which I had before seen. They seem to be entirely free from all cutaneous disease, which cover the inhabitants of all parts of Cook's Strait, and they are decidedly the stoutest and best-built mauris that I have seen yet. To the tangi succeeded speeches, many of them energetic and well worded, by both parties, of which the purport was as follows.

"An orator spoke from either party alternately, and every speech began with nearly these words : 'Come hither, come hither, my relations; come hither, my fathers, my brothers, my sisters, my children, welcome!' The speakers on the Taupo side seemed to wish to sound the feeling of the others towards them, and urged their friends to send them canoes to descend the river, and also to join them in obtaining a revenge, which both must

WAR SPEECHES.

desire, over their mutual enemies at Waitotara. The answers of the Patutouato (Wanganui tribe) were to urge them to return quietly for various reasons: some said that they had no canoes to spare; that the Ngatepahis had lost all their young men, and that old men and women would be slaughtered at Waitotara; others again said that they had turned 'Mitanari,' and could not join them, and urged the anger of 'Ihu Karaiti,' as a reason why they should give up the idea of fighting, and that the white Mitanaris said the 'Pukapuka' would be strong against the heathen. But the tone of irony in which these reasons were stated, particularly by Turoa, who has never ceased to be a warm ally of the Ngatepahi, was highly amusing, and showed plainly that none of the Patatokata had any idea of stating their real feelings in open assembly. Old Turoa, who, alone of all the tribe, appeared in an old mat, which, together with every part of his body, was encrusted with kokowai or red ochre, and a ragged night-cap, which partook of the same rusty hue, began with the usual plaintive greeting, comprehending, however, his grandchildren also in the list. 'You ask for canoes,' said he, 'how can I give them to you? – you see I have but one full of women, boys, and children – how can you think I have come to join you? Besides,' he added, looking with a most comic grin at Messrs. Mathews and Mason, I am just becoming a missionary; I have a book in one hand and a cap on my head, which I never wore before, and the anger of Ihu Karaiti will come upon me if I go to fight.' He ended by urging them to return in peace. Some of the Taupo chiefs expressed their determination to go on, whether assisted or not; and after a Wanganui man had asked them to go across the country, in order to spare the Wanganui plantations, old Heu Heu, the head chief of the Ngatepahi, concluded the conference by a speech to the following effect: – He was resolved to go on to Waitotara to revenge the death of his relations; he had not come to beg canoes, or food, or assistance; if canoes were lent him, he would cross from one side to the other, and so get to the seaside, wherever the best path might present itself; as to food, he could help himself; and the only help he wanted was that of bis meri poenamu, which he brandished with great pride. 'As to the missionary precepts,' he said, 'who cares for them? what is the anger of Ihu Karaiti to us? Were these missionaries, who shook hands and gave the hongi to my people, and then put them to death? Why I am a missionary at that rate, but my creed is my meri. Will that not be stronger than your puka-puka-tapu?'

NATIVE DIPLOMACY.

He then blamed the missionaries and all white people for being the cause of much disagreement among the mauris, and severely censured those chiefs who had signed away their power to King George. 'You are all slaves now,' he said, 'and your dignity and power is gone; but mine is not: – just as there is one man in Europe, King George, so do I stand alone in New Zealand, the chief over all others, the only free one left, – look at me, for I do not hide while I say so: I am Heu Heu!' He concluded by trying to excite the Patutokatu to revenge. 'Where is Tauteka? where are all your parents and brothers? Their bones are at Waitotara. Will you not join us in gaining possession of the bones of our ancestors?' In the course of the afternoon I brought some tobacco over as a present for the old chief, and gave him some more to distribute amongst his people, who have scarcely any. I then asked him whether he intended to harm the Pakehas, promising their friendship should he behave well, and assuring him that we were well prepared to resist any attack on our houses and goods on the sea-side. He answered that he had seen white people in his part of the country too; and that he knew what great advantages he would lose by quarrelling with them; for instance, he should not get tobacco, (as he had just now,) blankets, or powder, or any of those things which the mauris got by letting the white man live quietly among them. He assured me that no harm was intended to the white man, and that all his party were bound on nothing but revenge for their 'Pupupaka,' or dead; I told him that I thought he was quite right, for he forced me to acknowledge that the white people of my country would do the same, should the Wi-wis, or French, kill any of our chiefs. I felt now convinced that there was nothing to fear; although the missionaries assured me that there was no trusting these natives, and that they knew no such feeling as gratitude, and had the worst reputation of any natives on the islands. I must confess, however, that I found a high sense of honour at any rate among the chiefs of those tribes which have abandoned none of their ancient customs, and in general a frank and straightforward manner of speaking and acting, which is quite foreign to the (so called) Christian natives, whom I have generally found the most dishonest, and who is sure to tell you, should you accuse him of any roguery, that he is a 'Mitanere,' and therefore cannot have done anything wrong. My experience of these people has completely confirmed my opinion that civilization should come first, and Christianity afterwards. The natives

PEACEFUL TERMINATION TO THEIR WAR EXPEDITION.

about Wellington have become an industrious and highly useful race of people; you find them hard at work all over the town and its neighbourhood, and many of them earn 5s. and 6s. per day in various employments. They also understand now, to a considerable extent, the authority by which we, in common with them, are kept in order, and that penalties will be sure to over-take them, some time or other, should they wrong a white man. Thus a civilized community supplies that authority of the chiefs over the people, which, however limited, was generally exercised for good purposes by the chiefs in their intercourse with white men, until the missionary creed reduced the chief to a level with the lowest freeman, if not with the slave. I am afraid I have not explained this very distinctly; but, however, old Heu Heu has kept his word. After a day passed in visits, and speeches, and dances, the Patutokatu crowded themselves into fewer canoes, and gave all they could spare to the Ngatepahis. I went to Pukihika (which only differs in size to all the other Pahs, being capable of giving house-room to 600 or 800 people), and then returned to the settlement, where I found mauris and white people much afraid of being attacked by the Taupo tribe, and the Nga-te-ruakas building a new pah at Putiki Waranui, into which they urged that all the white people and mauris should come with their things for protection. This of course the greater part of us refused; as I had perfect confidence in the word of the old chief. During the four days that Te Heu Heu, and his party of about 400 fighting men, encamped in the midst of our settlement at the port of Wanganui, no outrage was committed by them, although the missionaries and others sent their property for safety to the pah, built by the Nga-te-ruakas, on the eastern bank. We all kept watch every night, and had our arms ready in case of any aggression on their part; but they went away in peace to Waitotara, after more speeches and a war dance, in which they were joined by about 100 of the Patutokatu tribes and the chief of E'Kuru, who finished by going along with them to attack Waitotara. They left a few days before I embarked once more in the 'Sand-fly' for Wellington."

At Waitotara the affair terminated without bloodshed, and the Taupo tribe returned peaceably to the interior.

Most of the war expeditions of the New Zealanders

PEACEFUL TERMINATION TO THEIR WAR EXPEDITION.

now end, as here described, in speeches and a war dance. The missionaries can, however, lay claim to but a small share of success, although they have at times certainly shewn courage, in their endeavours to pacify hostile tribes – the natives at such times generally disregarding their interference.

The depopulating wars which were formerly so frequent, may now be said to have terminated. The only fighting which has taken place in the country during the last three years, was at Waikanai, on the morning of the Tory's arrival, and at Waitotara, a few days previous to my passing that place when on the Taranake expedition. From the trifling number of slain and wounded in these affairs, they will bear no comparison with the old wars of E'Hongi and Raupero – in which whole tribes were extirpated. In the first fight, at Waikanai, which was a night surprise, not more than forty were killed; and at Waitotara, where the fight was closer, and by one party with tomahawks alone, the number killed of the Taupo tribe was one hundred, and of the defensive party, who were fighting under the protection of their stockade, eight only.

The introduction of fire-arms amongst the New Zealanders, has not by any means had a prejudicial effect; on the contrary, I believe that it has been the cause of less loss of life to them than has all the preaching of missionaries, or the growth of civilization. The New Zealanders are far from being expert in the use of the musket, and during the excitement of a fight, they never take aim in firing, except when under good shelter; and as both parties betake themselves to that as soon as possible, the loss of life is comparatively little.

From the New Zealanders, the English settled in

FEARS OF NATIVE COMBINATION GROUNDLESS.

the country have nothing to fear; as about the settlements their superiority in numbers, as well as in courage, would always be sufficient to deter the natives from committing any act of violence in combination. The dispersion of them amongst the European families would always insure the white people from surprise, as from the talkative disposition of the New Zealander, it would be a matter of impossibility for any concerted hostile measure to remain a secret from the English. Happily, however, it is futile to allude to such subjects, as any serious dissension between the two races is not likely ever to take place. Misunderstandings between the white and native population have occurred, and are likely to do so again, in consequence of the difference which exists in the habits of either, and the occasional invasion by the English of some of their old superstitions, or religious customs. But these dissensions have not, since the formation of the colony, been attended with serious results. – Of course I do not allude to individual crime, a shocking example of which has lately taken place at the Bay of Islands, nor can it be expected that from this, the New Zealand savages should be more exempt than the civilized population of England, amongst which the most atrocious crimes are of such frequent occurrence.

On occasion of a late alarm amongst some of the settlers in Wellington, caused by the violent language of a chief, on the discovery of the body of a mauri, who had died suddenly, and, as was thought by his relations, by treachery, – the conduct of the natives generally was admirable. The circumstance of some excitement which appeared amongst the natives of a pah in the vicinity of the town, and their declaration that the dead man had been murdered by the white

RECENT CAUSELESS EXCITEMENT.

people, induced the police magistrate, who was present, to send a request to Col. Wakefield to swear in a number of the settlers to act as special constables, should any circumstance occur which might require it. By the judicious exercise which Col. Wakefield made of his influence over the natives, their passionate feelings soon subsided, and there appeared no necessity for that act of precaution. – On the following day, however, an alarm spread over the town in consequence of the report of a gentleman (at that time an influential one) that he had been warned by his native servant of an attack which was to be made on the settlement the next morning, by the tribe of the deceased man, which had collected from different villages on the coast, and was said to be waiting amongst the hills in the neighbourhood of the town. It being the custom of the natives always to attack at daybreak, it appeared to many that there might be some truth in the report, and with more prudence than sagacity, they collected under arms, to defend themselves if necessary. No attack, however, occurred, the relations of the deceased having merely assembled to mourn over him: and the natives showed their discretion and sense by remaining quietly in their houses.

Great numbers of the inferior chiefs and common people are now domesticated in the houses of the settlers, for whom they work as servants. They will clear land, build, fence, fish, shoot, and cook for them, arid but seldom, when treated with confidence, do they show themselves unworthy of it. It is not unfrequently that the settlers, on any temporary absence from the town, leave their houses in the charge of a native; and at such times, I have never

HONESTY OF THE NATIVES.

heard of any act of dishonesty having been committed by one.

The Port Nicholson natives have a great liking for European clothing, and their personal vanity in no slight degree promotes their industry. – One merchant in Wellington has on his books the names of nearly 200 natives, to whom he has given credit for various articles of clothing and ornament; and amongst that number are none who do not immediately cancel the account against them when able to do so, nor does the vendor find their custom unprofitable. The natives do not at all times display much refinement of taste in their method of arranging their dress, but they are excellent judges of its quality, and are seldom deceived by a showy appearance of the article they are bargaining for.

Many of them are in possession of considerable sums of money. The amount of specie in circulation amongst them was estimated by Mr. Smith, the manager of the Wellington bank, at 150,000l. I have myself seen as much as forty pounds tied up in the corner of a chief's blanket. Any native who chooses to work for a settler in Port Nicholson can obtain half-a-crown a day for any length of time, and on considering their few wants it will be apparent that this is a fair rate of wages.

That trust and reliance can be put in them with safety, is sufficiently shown by the fact of the mail between the settlements of New Plymouth, Petre, and Wellington, being carried by a native weekly: and the circumstance of E'Wari, one of the young chiefs of Port Nicholson, having, with a native boat's crew, gone off to the Olympus emigrant ship, in the Straits, during a gale, and piloted her with safety into the harbour and anchorage, and for which he

SUFFICIENCY OF NATIVE RESOURCES.

received five pounds, proves the ability and confidence which some of them possess.

The Port Nicholson natives are fully aware of, and appreciate, the power of the law. Their dissensions between themselves and with the English, they continually refer to the decision of the magistrate; and they at all times follow his opinion or advice, even in cases out of his legal judication.

Very few of the natives in the Company's settlements repent having sold their land. Some difficulties have occurred when the settlers have chosen, for their sections, native plantations: this, however, cannot be wondered at, as they had then no knowledge of the situation of their reserved land, and naturally felt jealous and alarmed at being dispossessed of their potatoe grounds, which are, of course, their most important property. All are now aware of the sufficiency of the reserved land for their wants; and through the judicious selection of many of their clearings for such reserves, the recurrence of any inconveniences on this matter is prevented.

The quantity of land reserved for the use of the natives of the Port Nicholson district, is 110 acres of town land, and 11,000 acres of agricultural land: of this amount, about 2700 acres have been surveyed and put into their possession. On the settled parts of the Wellington and Manewatu districts, there are about 700 natives, including slaves; there are therefore 15 and 6/7 acres per man, in the first settlement, and in that of Nelson, where the amount of reserved sections is the same, with a population of 100, the proportion to each native is 110 acres. The most rigid conservators of the aboriginal rights could not question the sufficiency of this quantity of land for its population.

In reference to this subject, it must be remembered

SECURITY OF TRAVELLERS.

that as the civilization of the natives proceeds, their dependence on their own land will decrease, as by labouring for the settlers, and mixing with them, they will live on the produce raised by the white people; and although many of their chiefs will no doubt cultivate their own land, few of the inferior class will be disposed to confine themselves to agricultural pursuits.

Much has been said in England, by persons who had not the interests of the place at heart, of the fierceness of the New Zealander, and the dangers to which the settler would be exposed when living in the backwoods, and apart from assistance. This subject has not yet troubled the minds of the actual settlers, and will never be thought of in the colony. I speak as one who has travelled much amongst the natives, both accompanied and alone, when I assert that a white man can now travel throughout the whole extent of New Zealand, and amongst all the tribes, without any cause for fear of molestation from them.

It may confidently be hoped that the settlement of the New Zealand islands will form an exception to the rule, that in all colonized countries the aboriginal inhabitants have suffered from their contact with Europeans, and that their extermination follows the settlement of their country. The character and disposition of the New Zealanders is such as to enable them soon to acquire industrious and regular habits; and from the provision which has been made for their future wants, we may with reasonableness expect that in half a century the interests of the two races will be one; and that the extermination of the aborigines will only take place in their amalgamation with the Europeans.

[Chapter VI]

CHAPTER VI.

DESCRIPTION OF WELLINGTON.

HAVING already made mention of the peculiar fitness of the site of Wellington, both from its centrical position, and adjacency to the finest portions of the country, for the capital of New Zealand, I shall here give a description of the town and district of the first settlement of the New Zealand Company.

The great energy of the Company, and the efficiency of their system and operations in the formation of this settlement, together with the numbers, wealth, and enterprise of the first settlers, aided by the natural advantages of the locality, have founded and supported this colony until past the possibility of its failure. And it has happily escaped the many evils which have attended the early progress of several of the previously formed colonies in Australia and elsewhere.

The amount of capital taken out in the first instance, and the expenditure of the Company in the place, have caused the Sydney merchants to find in Port Nicholson, at all times, a safe and ready market for their superabundant merchandise; and consequently, the place has been continually well sup-

DEMAND AND SUPPLY OF LABOUR.

plied with all necessary commodities. From the first landing of the settlers, there has never been any want of the necessaries of life; nor has the price of provisions ever been immoderately high.

The happy effect of the "Wakefield system," has been to cause the supply of labour and the demand to be at all times equal, and neither have the rate of wages been high, or the labouring classes in want of employment. This was sufficiently proved by the failure of Capt. Hobson's attempts to induce the labouring population of Wellington to remove to his township of Auckland. It was singular and interesting, that neither the Auckland capitalists or government could offer better inducements in Wellington, than constant employment to labourers and mechanics, at wages one-third lower than what they were in the receipt of at that place.

The selection of the site of the principal settlement on so fine a harbour as Port Nicholson gave great satisfaction to all the settlers on their arrival, and experience has since confirmed their opinion of its eligibility, in proving that it is a harbour of easy access as well as of accommodation and security.

The principal cause of the removal of the town from the site first chosen, was the superiority of the anchorage in Lambton Harbour to that under Somes Island, which, although safe, was not commodious, as the water near the adjacent beach was shoal, and caused much difficulty in landing cargo. The site at present occupied by the town has also many other advantages. Lambton Harbour possesses every natural requisite for the shelter of vessels and for facilitating their communication with the shore. The anchorage is not only perfectly land-locked, but in

EXCELLENCE OF HARBOUR.

the direction of the prevalent winds the distance from the beach is so small as to prevent any swell arising in a gale which would affect the shipping. The excellence of the holding ground, and the fact that vessels of any size can lie in safety within a very short distance of the shore, was proved by the circumstance of the Lady Nugent , emigrant ship, having rode out the heaviest gale which has yet been experienced, without dragging her anchors, in a position where she had voluntarily anchored, within half a cable's length of the shore, for the purpose of facilitating the dis-charge of her cargo.

Port Nicholson had received, between the dates of the Tory's arrival and the last intelligence from that place, no fewer than 340 ships of an aggregate burden of 54,546 tons.

As the accessibility of Port Nicholson, during the heavy contrary gales which sometimes prevail, has been questioned, I may here mention that the number of vessels which have beat in against strong gales are fourteen, and fifty-three with light winds: out of this number forty-seven were strangers, and eighteen entered by night. Each time that I have entered Port Nicholson has been against contrary winds, and thrice out of the five times has been by night. It is fortunate to be able to add that since the formation of the colony, no vessel has met with any serious accident, either while in the harbour, or when entering.

The site of Wellington possesses the advantage of being for the most part situate on high ground, or land of sufficient inclination to allow of natural drainage. The extent of swampy land is therefore little, and from even this, through its adjacency to, and height above, the sea, the water may be carried off

SITUATION OF THE TOWN.

with but little expense. No town in the world can be better watered, as streams intersect it at every hundred yards over its whole extent, and the water is everywhere good. Two persons, who built upon high ground, have sunk wells, and in both water has been obtained at a depth of thirty feet.

The town is chiefly built on what are called the "Lambton" and "Thorndon Flats," which are two pieces of flat or gently sloping ground, extending from the hills at the back of the town to the beach. Each of these flats is about a mile square, and the two would have been sufficient in size for the site of the town, had it been laid out in half, instead of whole acre sections. Had the town covered only 550 acres, nothing could have surpassed the excellence of the site; as for commercial purposes, the advantage of having a town nearly encircling a good harbour, and with so extended a water frontage as three miles, is of great importance, and but rarely to be obtained. The quantity of ground which Wellington actually covers, gives the built portion of it rather a straggling appearance. This, however, is its only fault.

At first the town consisted of few but native-built houses, which, although roughly put together, and seldom perfectly weather proof, in the mild New Zealand climate served well the wants of the settlers, until they found themselves in a sufficiently secure position to enable them safely to expend money in the erection of more substantial dwellings. The houses at present extend along three-fourths of the beach frontage of the town; and all the land in the immediate vicinity of the water is consequently already of great value. The average rent of land on

RENT OF TOWN LAND.

the beach is 1l. per lineal foot of admeasurement, and this is given freely as an adequate value. The price of the land removed from the beach is very variable, but any within half a mile of it, may be let advantageously.

In all parts of the town, are now interspersed many handsome and substantially built houses. These are in general the storehouses of the wholesale merchant, many of whom have been at considerable expense in rendering their establishments efficient and commodious. Three piers or jetties have been built by private persons, and one by a company; by their extending out a considerable distance into deep water, they much facilitate the landing of cargo, and general communication with the shipping. The wharf latest built has sufficiently deep water alongside to enable ships of 150 tons burden to discharge cargo upon it. When I left Port Nicholson the Kate brigantine was landing a cargo of oil on to it. The proprietor of one of the other piers intends extending its length yearly, until large vessels may approach it.

The premises of the firm of Ridgway and Co. could not have been built for a less sum than 2000l .; and the storehouses of Messrs. Waitt, Wade, Rhodes, Hort, Hunter, Cook, Hobson, Durie, Wallace, Lyon, Waters and Smith, Moore, Revans, Martin, Taylor, and Partridge, have all been erected at considerable expense, and the cost of many of them could have been little less than the sum above named.

Many of the private houses of the most influential settlers are handsome and well built, and possess every comfort of an English residence. That of Dr. Evans is the best, and is an ornament to the place. The houses of Col. Wakefield, Capt. Daniell,

VALUE OF PRIVATE BUILDINGS.

Mr. Duppa, Mr. Brewer, Capt. Smith, Mr. Halsewell, Mr. Molesworth, Mr. Partridge, Mr. Wickstead, Capt. Hay, Mr. Hunter, Mr. Hanson, Mr. Smith, Mr. Mochatta, Mr. Hort, Mr. Ludlam, and Mr. St. Hill, are all well built, and amongst them are many which possess much architectural beauty. Two houses in Wellington are built of New South Wales' hard wood, which has the advantage of possessing extreme durability, but costs much in working.

The number of substantially built wooden or brick houses in Wellington, was, in November last, 195, and their cost I estimate at 23,600l . In making this estimate I have carefully calculated the cost of each house, and the result is certainly not far, either way, from being correct. The number of native built houses was about 250, and their value may be estimated at 3000l . The total number of houses may, therefore be calculated at 445, or thereabouts, at the date of the last intelligence from the colony, and their total value at 26,600l .

The population of the town was, of course, principally engaged in commercial pursuits. The following is a classified list of those in business, viz.:

Professionally,

Architect ....... 1

Barristers ....... 2

Solicitors ....... 3

Physicians ...... 2

Apothecary...... 1

Surveyors ....... 2

Schoolmasters .... 2

Schoolmistress .... 1

Auctioneers. ..... 3

Custom-house Agents 2

Engraver ....... 1

* This list is inclusive of those in business in Wellington only, without reference to the villages of Kaiwarawara, Petoni, Aglionby, or Porirua.

STATISTICS OF TRADE.

In mercantile business.

Wholesale English

houses .... 9

Banker ..... 1

Wholesale Colonial

Firms .... 3

Retail Vendors . . 15

Trades having shops, or advertising their business.

Brickmakers ... 2

Miller ..... 1

Ship-builders ... 2

Boat-builders ... 2

Builders .... 6

Printer ..... 1

Lithographic printer 1

Lime burners ... 2

Masons ..... 2

Flax-dressers ... 2

Timber dealers . . 2

Wine merchant . . 1

Publicans .... 9

Bakers ..... 4

Butchers .... 4

Tinman ..... 1

Smiths ..... 2

Gunsmith .... 1

Turner ..... 1

Watchmakers ... 3

Draper and Perfumer 1

Tailors ..... 3

Shoemakers ... 3

Hair-dressers ... 2

Coffee-house keepers 3

Fishmongers ... 2

Milkmen .... 3

Colt breaker ... 1

Cabinet makers . . 3

Zincworker ... 1

Glaziers ..... 2

Charcoal burner . . 1

Wheelwrights ... 2

Amongst the mercantile class, but one failure has occurred; and in that case fifteen shillings in the pound, I believe, was paid.

It is a circumstance much to be deplored, that the indecisive, yet threatening, conduct of the Government towards the settlers, in the early days of the colony, should have so damped their spirit and enterprise, as to cause them to turn their attention and capital almost exclusively to mercantile affairs, rather than to the clearing and cultivation of land, which was then deemed a hazardous and insecure investment of capital. Fortunately, however, this idea has

COST OF CLEARING.

now changed for a more rational one in consequence of the "Title " question being settled, and the proprietors being in possession of their land. They now seem to perceive, that it is from the soil alone that they can ever expect to obtain wealth; and that the system of intertrading must in the end prove ruinous.

An incautious statement made in an otherwise well-written letter, from a settler at Port Nicholson to a friend in England, I believe to have done the agricultural interest of the colony more harm than all the opposition of the government. It was to the effect that the forest land could not be cleared at a less cost than forty pounds per acre. The truth of this statement was not only believed by many in England, but also by those who read it in the adjacent colonies, and by many in New Zealand itself; and much deterred people from farming, or in any way investing their money in the improvement of land. Experience has since proved that the average cost of clearing and stumping land is between ten and twelve pounds per acre; and I believe that when the business is well understood, it may be done for considerably less, probably not exceeding half that sum.

Evidently the best way of clearing land is that pursued by the Canadians (as well as by the New Zealanders in their potatoe grounds). Having felled the timber and stacked it for burning, they immediately turn up the ground by spade husbandry, or sometimes by the plough, and plant between the stumps, leaving in the roots to rot; which happens in the course of a few years. The settler is thus always employed either in the cultivation of the ground, or on fresh clearings; and, while improving his property,

NUMBER OF FARMERS.

is subsisting on the produce of that portion of it already in cultivation. Some of the natives, near Wellington, who are clearing land for the settlers, follow another method, namely, that of cutting off the crown or upper branches of the tree only, whereby much of the valuable timber is saved for some time for the settlers' use, and the quantity to be logged and burnt is much lessened.

To shew what may be done in the forest by industrious application, I may mention the circumstance of two young Scotchmen, owning a section in the Karori valley, near Wellington, having by their own unaided labour cleared about twenty acres of forest land, heavily timbered, and built themselves a house in the space of six months, with only the assistance of a native to carry their provisions to them from the town.

When I left Wellington in November 1841, the following gentlemen were engaged in clearing land and cultivating in the different valleys about Port Nicholson, viz.,

In the Valley of the Hutt.

F. A. Molesworth, Esq.

F. Johnson, Esq.

C. Von Alsdorf, Esq.

G. Shand, Esq.

G. White, Esq.

R. Barton, Esq.

Mr. Smith.

Mr. Bowler.

Mr. Eaton.

Mr. Poole.

Mr. Turner.

Mr. Mason.

Mr. T. Cook.

Mr. S. Cook.

Dr. Relph.

In the Porirua District.

F. Johnson, Esq.

Mr. Hay.

Mr. J. Johnstone.

Mr. W. Buchanan.

Major Hornbrook.

G. Swainson, Esq.

SETTLERS RESORTING TO THE BUSH.

In the Karori Valley.

Messrs. Yule.

In the Ohiro District.

J. Watt, Esq. Capt. Daniel.

– Harrison, Esq. Messrs.Guyton and Earp.

Round the Harbour.

Mr. Deans.

Mr. Tod.

Mr. Crawford.

Mr. Jackson.

Mr. Bannister.

Mr. Scanlon.

Lyall's Bay.

Mr. Hulke.

Although this number is small, yet on considering the short time it had been known in Port Nicholson that the settlers were to have a full and conclusive title to their land, it does not appear that they had been tardy in availing themselves of their security, by entering into agricultural pursuits.

On my return to Wellington from Nelson in November last, I was much surprised at the altered appearance of the town, which even in two months, had progressed much in size and population. A different spirit also seemed to pervade the settlers, it was for entering into farming and pastoral pursuits, rather than still confining themselves to those of trading and commerce, which in Port Nicholson, as in all new settlements, had been carried to too great an extent. During the few days that I was in Wellington previous to my departure, I was continually meeting with persons who intended immediately either to rent ground for farming, or to clear upon their own; and all were confident of success.

At this time, also, there was, generally, a much

NECESSITY OF ROAD FUND.

greater appearance of business and activity in the town than I had seen since its formation. Twenty ships were in the harbour, several of which were owned by merchants of the Port; and one vessel of sixty tons burden was on the stocks, and would soon be ready for launching. A short time previously several cattle ships had arrived from the Australian colonies, and the whole of the suburban land was covered with sheep and cattle which would be driven into the interior, so soon as the communication was opened; and which would shortly take place.

The brief duration of my stay in Wellington, did not allow me opportunities for ascertaining the quantity of land cleared, or in cultivation; and this being a very important subject, will not allow of my giving publicity to any statements which might be erroneous. From the activity and resources of some of the gentlemen before named, I imagine that the quantity cannot be inconsiderable.

One great impediment to the progress of agriculture about Port Nicholson, is the want of roads through the district. No provision has been made for this contingency; and from the smallness of their numbers, the settlers feel themselves unable to bear the expense of road-making alone. A general and voluntary land tax, affecting equally the settler and absent proprietor, for the construction of roads, bridges, and other necessary public improvements would, in my opinion, be highly beneficial in improving the value of country land, and in aiding agriculturists, especially those of small capital, in settling on it. The company have, in making several roads about Wellington, done more than the settlers could with any reasonableness have expected from

ROADS ALREADY FORMED.

them, as there was never any fund in their hands for that purpose; neither was there a stipulation in the original terms of purchase to the effect that they should do so. The roads that already exist, and which have been made at the expense of the Company, are from Wellington along the western side of the harbour to the Hutt valley; and from the village of Kaiwarawara on the above named road, to Porirua Harbour. One is also being made up the Hutt Valley from Petoni: and another was proposed to the Karori valley.

The first of the above mentioned roads is, especially, an ornament to the colony. It is nearly six miles in length, with a sufficient width the whole way for two carriages to pass. The distance may appear little, but the difficulties which there were to contend with, were considerable. The road, which follows the beach line, is, throughout its whole extent, built far above the influence of the tide, and consequently walls of rough masonry were necessary on the side nearest to the sea; while opposite, it had to be cut out of the side of the hills. Several protruding rocky points, also, had to be blasted; but the stability of the road, now once made, is a recompence for the trouble that was taken upon it.

The other road, or rather "bridle path," commences at the Scotch village of Kaiwarawara, which is distant a mile from Wellington. It winds up the face of the hilly range which bounds Port Nicholson to the westward, and after running for about four miles on the comparatively flat tops of the hills, it descends to the Kinapoura valley, and following the course of that stream, it, at a distance of about twelve miles from Wellington, emerges from the forest on to the Porirua

COMMUNICATION BY THE SHORE.

harbour, along the beach of which it proceeds four miles to the whaling station and village. This road is not more than five feet in width, and therefore only serves for the passage of cattle and pack-horses; but it is of much importance in throwing open the route to Wanganui and Taranake; the rest of which is comparatively easy. The difficulties which the road party had to contend with on this line, were certainly great, as, throughout its whole length, it is surrounded with forest; and at its commencement, near Port Nicholson, the country is steep and rugged.

Between Porirua and Wanganui, and the latter place and Taranake, there at present exist but few impediments to the passage of herds and flocks. Between Port Nicholson and Petre or Wanganui, the jutting rocky points at Pari-pari, about eight miles from Porirua, were the principal obstacles to easy communication. Cattle had been driven the whole distance to Wanganui, but with considerable inconvenience and danger. And as it appeared that, on the removal of these rocks, the large interior grazing districts would be at once opened, Col. Wakefield had given orders to a party of workmen to proceed to Pari-pari and render the beach fit for the passage of cattle. 7

With these roads completed, and one formed to the Ohariu and Makara district, the whole Port Nicholson country will be open to the agriculturist, and clearing will become a far less formidable affair than it is considered now. With good roads, all the fine timber,

RENT OF COUNTRY LAND.

which is now wasted in clearing, would become of value, as it then could easily be drawn to the town where there would always be a market for it, for the supply of the saw mills and the masting of ships, &c.; the sale of the wood would then more than pay the expenses of clearing.

Of the various valleys around Wellington, that of the Hutt river is certainly the most important, from its level character, fertility, and easiness of access. In this valley all the finest woods of the middle and southern parts of New Zealand are found. As I have previously described them, any further notice is unnecessary, save the statement that they have been extensively used in Wellington for all building purposes, and have in every instance been found serviceable. I will only add one statement to all that have been made respecting the extraordinary fertility of the Hutt valley, viz., That in one place, where the bank had fallen into the stream I measured a depth of thirteen feet of black vegetable mould, upon a subsoil of boulder stones in clay.

The number of acres surveyed and given out in this valley, is 7,400, and every section is a good one. Some of those lying nearest to the harbour are of great value, and are seldom leased, even now, under an annual rent of 1l . per acre. The usual way of leasing country land about Port Nicholson, is to give the tenant the land rent-free for the first three, five, or seven years, on condition that it shall all be cleared and fenced at the expiration of that time; for the next seven years a rent of about twelve shillings an acre per annum is paid, and for the last seven, one pound per acre. The nature of the ground, and the quality and thickness of the timber on it, of course very much influences the rate of rent, and also the

RENT OF TOWN LAND.

length of time for which the tenant holds it rent-free.

A section in the Hutt valley, situated about two and a half miles from the harbour, lately sold for 900l . On this section the village of Richmond is to be laid out; and considering that the section was an inferior one, and in some places swampy, the price cannot be thought bad.

When I left Wellington, the best acres of town land, – those near the beach, were letting rapidly, at the rate of about ten shillings per lineal foot of street frontage, and on the beach one pound per foot was everywhere demanded. Dr. Evans was fast letting ground on the beach at that rate, and from one acre alone will realize 3001 . per annum. Two Land Associations had been formed amongst the operative classes for the purchase, by subscription, and subsequent subdivision of country and town lands among the members. The effect of these societies was beneficial, in giving the working classes an interest in, and in a degree, binding them to the colony.

At the commencement of the Hutt valley, on the beach of the Harbour, is Petoni, where first was selected the site of Wellington, or rather Britannia as it was termed. About a hundred settlers are here still, but the greater part, who did not remove to the town, settled on land about a mile and a half up the Hutt where the village of Aglionby is now forming. This village is chiefly inhabited by sawyers and labourers working on the clearings in the valley; there are a few stores, and a public house for their accommodation. When the whole of the valley of the Hutt is in cultivation, this will become a place of importance, as it is well situated at the entrance of the valley, and on the navigable part of the river.

POPULATION OF WELLINGTON

While mentioning the villages around Port Nicholson, I must not omit that of Kaiwarawara. The valley, or rather a part of it, where the village is located, was chosen as the first country section, and it promises to realize the expectation of the person who selected it, in becoming of great value as a suburban village. The Highlanders out of the Blenheim immigrant ship were located there, in consequence of the immigration depot being full at the time of their arrival. The natives had built several large and fine houses at this place for the white people, and the Scotch who took possession of them, seem to be too fond of the locality to leave it. In Kaiwarawara there may be two hundred white people.

In Wellington, in November last, I calculate there were about 3000 white people; in Kaiwarawara 200; in Petoni and Aglionby 250; and in Porirua, on the coast, and at Petre and Wanganui 250; making a total population of 3,700 English in the first settlement. The number which had arrived in the Company's immigrant ships was 3,386 for the Wellington settlement; and somewhat more than 300 had arrived from the adjacent Australian colonies, or in private vessels from England. The number who have left the colony is very trifling, and in Port Nicholson far more have been born than have died. To the present population of Port Nicholson, must be added a number of passengers who were on their way to the colony at the date of the latest intelligence. Allowing 200 to have arrived at Wellington from New South Wales, (and considering the bad state of affairs in that colony, it will not appear that the estimate is extravagant), the population will now be about 4,600.

POPULATION OF WELLINGTON.

About Port Nicholson, a great part of the native population ought to be included in the census, as they live in the families of the English, work for them, and are entirely domesticated. Out of about 500, which is their number around Port Nicholson, 200 might be reckoned amongst the civilized inhabitants of the place.

Without, however, reckoning natives, we may calculate the number of settlers in the Company's several townships to be as follows, viz.,

Wellington town and district... . 4,600
Petre . ...350
New Plymouth ...800
Nelson ... 1,600
Total.... 7,350

It will have already been seen that there are several gentlemen farming or clearing land in the valley of the Hutt, and first amongst them, Mr. Molesworth deserves much praise for the example which he has set of enterprise and determination. Mr. Watt, from Australia, has also expended much money in improving land, and has the credit of having been the first person to commence farming in Port Nicholson.

It is expected in Port Nicholson, that on the Hutt valley being thoroughly and properly explored, it will be found to communicate with the level and open country, at the head of Palliser Bay, which according to the native accounts it does. The level district at the head of Palliser Bay is of considerable extent, and is watered by the Wainerapa, a river much larger

THE PORIRUA VALLEY.

than the Hutt. The country is more open than that around Port Nicholson, and is not so hilly. It is described as a grazing district. Between Palliser Bay and Port Nicholson is a high range of mountains that would render the passage of a road over its summit difficult, but by no means impracticable. At present the only path between the places is along the coast. About the date of my departure a body of surveyors was sent to ascertain how much good and available land really does exist in that district; and should it appear advantageous, the land there will be included in the first township.

Next to the Valley of the Hutt, that of the Porirua is most important, and is inferior to it only in size. The country around Porirua Harbour is not so mountainous as that in the vicinity of Wellington; it has a more beautiful and park-like appearance, and about it, but a small quantity of land exists which is not fit for cultivation. There is a whaling station at the harbour, and the locality is considered one of the best in the straits. The Brougham loaded with oil from this fishery. I have already mentioned that this is a bar harbour, but that vessels of a hundred and fifty tons can enter with safety; and from the entrance of the harbour being sheltered by the island of Mana, which lies immediately before it, there is seldom any surf or swell about it, that would do injury to boats or shipping.

The Porirua, or Kinapoura valley is, like that of the Hutt, covered with timber, and the soil of the same vegetable deposite, and equally fertile. The number of acres surveyed and given out in this district is 10,800. Much of the land about the Porirua Harbour is very valuable, and one gentleman in particular will make a fortune from his happy

OHARIU AND OHIRO VALLEYS.

selection of land there. A town 8 will, ere long, be formed at Porirua; at present there are about fifty English settled there, besides the whaling party which may consist of about the same number.

The Karori valley consists of 2,500 acres. It commences about two miles from Wellington, thence running in a south westerly direction to the coast near Cape Teirawitte. The valley is covered with forest, but less densely than those previously described: and here is to be found the finest timber in the vicinity of Port Nicholson. From one spot in this valley I have counted fifty trees around me that would each make a topmast for a large vessel.

The Ohariu and Makara Valley runs from near one part of the Karori, which I expect it joins, to the native village of that name on the coast; where it is proposed to found a whaling station. The valley is closely bounded by high hills, but contains much good land, partly wooded and partly open. In this district 3,900 acres have been given out.

The Ohiro district consists of 1,500 acres. It is for the most part open, and contains more grazing ground than any of the other districts mentioned. The greater part of it has been cleared by the natives for their plantation, but since deserted, in a great measure by them. On it, are great numbers of cattle, for which it is well adapted.

Watt's peninsula is all open; being covered with fern and herbage, with but little bush. Sheep and cattle farms have been established on it by a gentleman from Australia. On the eastern side of Port Nicholson, Lowry Bay, Hawtry Bay, and Robinson

EXISTENCE OF COAL.

Bay, have each been settled, and on them will soon be flourishing farms. In the Harbour district, 8,000 acres have been surveyed. On the shores of Evans Bay indications of coal have been found, on the sections of Mr. Revans and Mr. Nattrass, and were they followed up, there is no doubt that they would be found to communicate with beds of coal, as it exists in many places about Cook's Strait in great quantities. I may here mention that the principal coal-fields are at Wanganui, on the Middle Island; at Coal Bay, in Tasman's Gulf; in Palliser Bay, near Port Nicholson, and at Waitotara, and Waimate, on the coast between the Wanganui River and Cape Egmont. A small quantity has also been found by Capt. Wakefield, in the cliffs on the shore of Nelson Haven.

About Port Nicholson, the generality of the stone is of too laminated a nature to be fit for building purposes; freestone has, however, been found in the section belonging to Mr. Shand, on the Hutt Valley; and I have observed stone between Porirua and Port Nicholson, that much resembled marble.

At Nelson there is an abundance of freestone and granite. The general formation of the country seems to be of the latter, and it is to be found in every degree of hardness, and variety of colour.

The Sugar Loaf Islands, and in fact the whole of the country about New Plymouth, are of a volcanic conglomerate and sandstone. In the river-beds, in the Nelson country, great quantities of beautifully coloured conglomerates are met with, and occasionally some excellent specimens of marble. No limestone has yet been found in any of the settlements; considerable quantities of lime, however, are obtained by burning shells.

The first bricks burnt in Wellington, did not prove

QUANTITY OF LAND SURVEYED.

good, in consequence of not being sufficiently worked and burnt; but those now supplied are of the best quality. But few brick houses have yet been built in Wellington ; partly in consequence of the scarcity of material, and partly from fear of the effects of earthquakes. I do not imagine that the earthquakes will prove of much annoyance to the settlers, as from what can be learnt, it appears that the shocks are never very violent. One shock that occurred soon after the completion of a large brick house in Wellington, did not do any injury to it, or to any other brick-work. It would, however, be well to build all brick houses substantially; and in their construction much timber should be used, which would materially strengthen and bind the walls.

The total number of sections which had been given out in November last, was 465, or 46,500 acres. About 14,000 acres of available land is my estimate of the quantity still to be given out in the vicinity of Port Nicholson. It lies between the Hutt Valley and Porirua; and from Kaiwarawara, in a westerly direction, towards Ohariu. For the remainder of the sections sold in the first settlement, a block of land on the Manewatu river is to be surveyed, and probably one, also, in the Wainerapa valley at Palliser Bay.

The Manewatu river is one of the largest near Cook's Straits, and flows from the large level inland country to the southward of the Tangariro volcano, and the lakes. In these plains the Wainerapa river, of Palliser Bay, the Ouridi, which flows into Hawk's Bay, the Wanganui, and the Rangetiki rivers all have their rise. The sources of the Manewatu, the Ouridi, and the Wainerapa, are described by the natives as being within a mile of each other, from thence flowing

DESCRIPTION OF THE MANEWATU RIVER

severally in a westerly, north-easterly, and southerly direction. All of these rivers can be entered by small coasting vessels. The Ouridi, or "McDonell's Inlet," as it is termed in the chart, can be entered by large vessels at high water; but being a bar harbour, cannot be termed a good one.

The Manewatu river has the same depth of water at its entrance as the Wanganui, viz. from twelve to fourteen feet at high water; and, therefore, will admit vessels of about 150 tons burden. It is not navigable for vessels so far up as that river, but can be ascended in a boat or canoe to a distance of forty miles. Mr. Hadfield, a church missionary, and one of comprehensive understanding, and on whose statement reliance may be placed, describes the country around the river, which he had ascended in a canoe, to the distance before mentioned, as particularly fine. He states that there are no portages in the river to the distance which he went, and that the country, instead of being low, as it is near the mouth, is there at the height of about forty feet above the river. The country he describes as being generally open, with patches of forest in the hollows.

The land about the Manewatu, Rangatiki, and Wangaihu rivers, which are all near each other, is generally of a level character. Between the sources of the Manewatu and Wangaihu rivers, the Rua-Wahine range of snowy mountains extend for about twenty miles in length, nearly due north and south; thus separating the plains into two portions, eastward and westward. That part to the eastward of the range extends to the sea in Palliser Bay, Cook's Straits, in one direction; and in the other, to Hawke's Bay, and, according to the natives' accounts, to the Bay of Plenty. The west portion lies near the mouths

DESCRIPTION OF THE MANEWATU RIVER

of the three rivers between the Rua-Wahine range, and Cook's Strait.

On the Manewatu River there must necessarily be a town, which might either be formed by the settlers on their own sections, or established by the Company in the same manner as that of Petre at Wanganui; and in which each landowner might have a share. The establishment of a town by the Company, could it be done without an infringement of the original terms of sale, would be the most beneficial to the general interests of the settlement, as it would at once give it character and stability; at the same time much increasing the value of the property of those persons who obtained the latest orders of choice.

7This has since been done. When a ferry is established on each of the large rivers on the north side of Cook's Strait, cattle may be driven from Port Nicholson to the Kafia, Waikato, and Bay of Plenty districts.

8It is almost needless to say that all these towns and villages have been proposed and laid out by the proprietors of the sections.

[Chapter VII]

CHAPTER VII.

DESCRIPTION OF THE WANGANUI RIVER AND DISTRICT.

THE Wanganui river is the largest and most central of six rivers which fall into Cook's Strait on its northern side, between Port Nicholson and Taranake. The others are the Manewatu, the Patea, the Waitotara, the Rangatiki, and the Wangaihu. I have before noticed these rivers, and shall here describe only the Wanganui.

New Zealand does not possess many navigable rivers. There are a few, however, which will admit large vessels; and one, the Wairoa, up which they may proceed seventy miles. The estuary of the Thames contains several excellent harbours, but the river itself will not give shelter to shipping.

The Waikato promises to be the most important river in the country, on the spread of settlement to that district, as it affords excellent and extensive inland communication. The principal branch of the Waikato, the Waipa, has its source at the back of Mount Egmont, in the very centre of the island, and

NEW ZEALAND RIVERS.

for boats is navigable, without a portage, to the coast. The sources of the Waitera, (which flows into the sea near New Plymouth,) and of the Wanganui, are in the same plain whence the Waikato flows; and these three rivers, each being of considerable depth, will transport to the coast the produce of the inland districts, around the lakes, in the same manner as the Manewatu, Wainerapa, and Ouridi rivers, all radiating from the same source, will that of the more southern plains, as already mentioned.

The New Zealand Company is fortunate in possessing in the territory which it has acquired, and to which its efforts will be more particularly directed, several of the most useful, though not the largest, rivers in the country.

The Wanganui river has its source near the base of the Tongariro volcano, whence it flows, with a southwesterly course, to the coast. Its whole length is about 100 miles, and for seventy miles it can be ascended by boats or steamers of light draught. The current of the tide is apparent for about thirty miles up, and flows with an average rate of three miles per hour. At high water there is a depth of fourteen feet over the bar, which, except during the prevalence of heavy westerly winds, is smooth and free from surf. Ships anchor about four miles up the river, opposite the town of Petre, where they lie in perfect security: the river is there about 350 yards in width, with an average depth of two fathoms at low water.

Vessels not drawing more water than twelve feet, can enter the Wanganui with safety; as is proved by the Clydeside, a barque of 250 tons, having anchored four miles up the river, before the town of Petre. The owner of this vessel, Mr. Mathison, who

NATURE OF THE LAND AT WANGANUI

went to New Zealand for the purpose of establishing a ship-building yard, has determined that the Wanganui river shall be the seat of his operations.

To a distance of thirty miles inland from the mouth of the Wanganui river, the country is mostly level or undulating, and of a more open character than that around Port Nicholson, and is, as I have before stated, very similar to that adjacent to Nelson. The river is, for about twenty-five miles above Petre, (the distance which I ascended it), totally free from obstruction, and has an excellent depth of water for barges, &c. For that distance, the land on its banks is generally from fifteen to thirty feet above the level of the river, and principally covered with fern, towai grass, and flax. Occasionally patches of forest appear, covering from 100 to 500 acres each, and affording a sufficiency of timber for the use of the settlement, without encumbering the land generally. The soil is black, and occasionally of considerable depth. From the appearance of the native plantations it must be particularly fertile, as they are everywhere thriving. In consequence of the existence of an under-stratum of sandy clay, through which the water does not penetrate, there is a considerable quantity of swampy ground near the sides of the river, but which, from the height of the bank and the sufficiency of the slope, can be easily drained.

The immediately available agricultural district of Petre is surrounded by hills of moderate height, having generally flat, or terrace-like tops of open land, well adapted for sheep pasturage.

The best part of the Wanganui district extends along the shore of the straits, to the northward, as far as the Waitotara country, and southward to the

NATURE OF THE LAND AT WANGANUI

rivers Manewatu and Rangatiki. A confused mass of hilly land, in a direction parallel to the coast, and distant from it about thirty miles, extending for about sixty miles from the Rangatiki river to Taranake, separates the country which will first be settled, around the town of Petre, from the large interior plains. The Wanganui river winds through this and penetrates to the Taupo country.

In describing that part of the river where it is confined by high land, Mr. E. J. Wakefield, in his journal already quoted, says, "From the Kauarapawa settlement upwards, the scenery on both sides of the river is most magnificent. Sometimes on one side, sometimes on the other, huge amphitheatrical ridges rise from the water's edge to the height of 800 or 1,000 feet, covered with nothing but fern, except close to the water, where a little terraced flat leaves room, in places, for a few stunted trees and a native plantation of corn, kumeras or potatoes. On the opposite side a hill rising more gradually to an equal height is clothed, from its top to the water's edge, with the most magnificent specimen of New Zealand forest, except where the native's axe had cleared a patch for cultivation, or where a cliff of white sandstone peeps through the foliage. Here and there, of course, you open a gulley or valley, according to the size of the watercourse, which either brawls over the blocks of stone which it has rolled to its mouth, or trickles from the face of an overhanging cliff covered with moss; and in other places, at a bend of the river, the mountainous ridge strikes straight across, leaving a semicircular flat varying in size from four to twenty or even 100 acres. On these flats there is generally a settlement and plantations. Picture to yourself

ORIGIN OF THE WANGANUI SETTLEMENT

this scenery, enlivened by the Indian corn and potatoe fields of the natives on either side; the little villages varying from two or three huts, to the fortified pah on a terraced hill, which can muster its 100 fighting men; and canoes resembling the Canadian 'dug-out' loaded to the water's brim with pigs, potatoes, fern, kumeras, corn, pumpkins, calabashes, water-melons, and baskets full of the kernel of the krakaberry, which meet you in every reach, with the everlasting greeting of 'Naumai,' or 'tena-koit-ou,' 'welcome' or 'hail to you,' and exchange, as they pass, the news up and down the river." – The part of the river here described is from forty to seventy miles distant from the sea: beyond this the country opens on each side of the river, disclosing the Tongariro, rising isolated from the centre of an immense plain.

In consequence of the numerous applications for the purchase of land in New Zealand, after the 1,100 land orders for the Wellington settlement were disposed of, the Company was induced to sell a secondary series of orders; the purchasers of which, not being able to have any share in the town of Wellington, were allowed to choose for the site of their settlement any part of the Company's territory, either in the vicinity of Cook's Strait, or about the Thames, or Kaipara estuaries. As, subsequently, it did not appear proper for the Company to interfere with the Government in their plan of colonizing the northern districts, and as the dispersion of the settlers would be detrimental to their general interests, Colonel Wakefield proposed to the proprietors of those land orders, that, should they be disposed to wave their right of choosing their locality, and settle at Wanganui, he would

ORIGIN OF THE WANGANUI SETTLEMENT

recommend to the Company that they should be granted the site of a town at that place. This offer was gladly accepted, and the settlement of the district immediately commenced.

Many persons of considerable capital are now engaged in agricultural pursuits at Wanganui, with every prospect of success. The clearing of the fern land is not a matter of difficulty or expence, and farming will, therefore, more rapidly proceed than in the Wellington country. Fern land can be cleared, and made ready for cultivation, by an outlay of 2l . 10s. per acre on it; like the forest land, it will not require manure for several years, and after each crop it is only necessary to turn up a fresh soil, by ploughing deep, to prepare it for immediate cultivation. An advantage is possessed by this settlement over the others, in there being but little, or no necessity for the formation of roads through it, as much of the best land is on the sides of the river, which is quite sufficient for all purposes of communication with the town and port. There were in November last 12,400 acres surveyed, exclusive of the town and public land, out of which 800 were reserved for the natives.

The natives of Wanganui have shown, probably, the greatest desire of any in the country for the settlement of their district by white people. The missionaries, to prevent it, have several times endeavoured to purchase it of them, but always without success.

The town of Petre is well situated; it is on a corner of land formed by a bend of the river, and has 3762 yards of water frontage. It covers 750 9 acres, and

DESCRIPTION OF NEW PLYMOUTH.

the site is perfectly level; in one part of it the ground is rather swampy, owing to the peculiarity of subsoil beforementioned, but this may be improved at a trifling expence.

The ships London , Bolton , Lady Nugent , Harrington , and Olympus , more especially, carried out settlers for this colony: the working classes settled at Wellington for a time, but many of them have since found their way to Petre; and the labour which is wanted at that place can be obtained from Port Nicholson. It may seem to be unfair and injurious to the landowners at the latter place, that their working population should leave them for another settlement, but it was brought out at the expense of the Wanganui proprietors, who are, of course, entitled to its benefit.

It is to be hoped, that ere many years elapse, the whole of the beautiful country, extending for a hundred miles between the Wanganui and Port Nicholson, may be settled by the spread of the population of those places.

SETTLEMENT OF NEW PLYMOUTH.

Not having visited this part of the country since the formation of the settlement, I am unable to furnish any account of its present state, and must confine my notice to a description of the locality, its relative position with other available districts, and general adaptation for settlement.

The whole of the Taranake country has undoubtedly been thrown up from the sea by immediate volcanic agency. For forty miles to the north, east, and south of Mount Egmont, the country rises, from a perfectly level

DESCRIPTION OF NEW PLYMOUTH.

plain, gradually to the base of that mountain. On these sides the land is unbroken by hills or ridges, and may all be cultivated: near the sea, the country is more rough – a ridge of hills, forming as it were a shoulder to the mountain, – extends from it to the coast, and terminates at the Sugar-loaf Point and Islands. This is the only interruption to the general uniformity of the surface of the country, the appearance of which has been appropriately compared to that of French Flanders.

The country around Mount Egmont is not so densely covered with forest as that near Port Nicholson, nor is it so open as that in the vicinity of Nelson. Between the mountain and Cape Egmont, and as far south as the Manewatu, are extensive grass fields bounding the district towards the sea. Nearer to the settlement the country is covered alternately with fern and forest; and there the agricultural settler may choose whatever description of land he imagines most suited to his purpose and means.

The soil of this district is particularly good; it is of a volcanic mould, enriched by vegetable deposit, and yields well when cultivated. The level nature of the country here does not cause the climate to be at all less moist than it is in the mountainous districts. Taranake is abundantly watered, by small, but rapid rivers, and has also one of importance – the Waitera, – with twelve feet of water on the bar. Small coasting vessels may enter this river, and boats may proceed up it a considerable distance: its source is said by the natives to be at the back of Mount Egmont, and they also report it as capable of being navigated by barges for thirty miles towards the interior. It has not yet been explored by white people, and consequently nothing authentic is yet known

DESCRIPTION OF NEW PLYMOUTH.

respecting it. From the number of streams which exist in the Taranake country, the tribes which formerly inhabited it obtained their name of "Nga-te-awas," or "of the rivers."

The town of New Plymouth is well situated, and possesses the advantage of occupying level ground; from this circumstance I anticipate that land will be of a more uniform value there than it is in Wellington.

About the Sugar-Loaf Islands, granite, ironstone, sandstone, and conglomerate are found, as also is tufa, and other minerals of volcanic production.

It cannot be denied that the want of a secure harbour is a serious disadvantage to this colony; much, however, maybe done to improve it artificially; by laying down heavy moorings the anchorage will be much improved, and vessels will then be enabled to leave the bay and attain a sufficient offing, previous to the occurrence of the north-west gale, which always gives warning of its approach. Iron rings should also be fixed in the island, to which vessels might moor; and with the vigilance of an efficient and experienced harbour-master, whose authority should be absolute, the place will form a tolerable, though not a good, anchorage for ships.

The erection of a solid, or even a floating breakwater, would at once alter the character of Port Eliot, but these are works which cannot be undertaken by the settlers for a length of time, nor can the New Zealand Company be expected to apply its funds to that purpose. Abundant material can be obtained for a solid breakwater, by blasting the Sugar-loaf Island; and the stone would not have to be conveyed above the distance of a pistol's shot. A breakwater of 400 yards in length would effectually shelter the anchorage, and cause the port to be suffi-

DESCRIPTION OF NEW PLYMOUTH.

cient for all the wants of a solely agricultural community.

Notwithstanding all the deficiencies of the harbour, the settlers at New Plymouth are quite satisfied with their locale, and the circumstance of their possessing a country, which by every one is allowed to be the "Garden of New Zealand," has prompted them to exertion and enterprise.

9Inclusive of streets, squares, and reserves.

[Chapter VIII]

CHAPTER VIII.

DESCRIPTION OF THE NELSON COUNTRY.

THERE is a peculiarity in the geographical formation of New Zealand, which, although it has hitherto escaped observation, is nevertheless remarkable.

In most islands, and more especially in those of small breadth, and of volcanic formation, there is found a spine or ridge of high land or mountains running along their centre, from the sides of which the ground gradually slopes to the coast. In New Zealand the character of the country is the reverse to this: in all portions of it the mountain ranges are in the immediate vicinity of the shore, leaving between them, and consequently in the interior, extensive tracts of comparatively level land.

In the north island the mountain ridges commence from the southward at Cook's Strait: to the eastward the high snowy chain rises at Cape Palliser, near Port Nicholson, and extends in a north-easterly direction close to the coast, as far as Hawke's Bay, where there is a slight break, and it again rises and runs as far as the Bay of Plenty. On the western side the Tararua range rises from the coast near the island of Kapiti, and extends northward to the south bank of the Manewatu river, on the north bank of which the Rua Wahine, a continuation of the same

DESCRIPTION OF THE NELSON COUNTRY.

range, rises and extends due north to the Rangatiki. Between these two ranges lie the plains of the Ouridi, Wainerapa, and Manewatu rivers.

In the middle island, the same features exist: one large mountainous chain rises on the west coast, near Cape Foulwind, and terminates at Cape Farewell; the other commences at the Lookers-on Bay on the eastern shore, and ends in the various promontories which form the harbours on the south side of Cook's Strait. Between them lies the Nelson district.

Beginning at the head of Tasman's Gulf, it is more than probable that the large interior valley of level or undulating land extends, with perhaps slight occasional interruption, throughout the whole extent of the island, to the coast at Foveaux Straits. Should this be the case, and the general appearance of the formation of the country would lead one to suppose it, the harbour of Nelson Haven will be almost the only outlet for the future produce of its northern portion.

The distance between the two ranges at the head of the gulf, is about 30 miles: the intermediate space is principally open land, occasionally diversified with patches of valuable forest, and watered by two rivers of considerable size.

The Mota Aka, that which flows under the western range, is the largest of these. We ascended the banks of this river to a distance of 30 miles from its mouth, and there found its width averaging 120 yards, and its depth, six feet. Between that distance and the sea, there are, however, several rapids and obstructions in the river, which for some time will hinder its navigation. On account of the shallow-ness of its entrance, not even small coasting vessels can avail themselves of this river. At the distance from the coast above-mentioned, the size of the river

DESCRIPTION OF THE NELSON COUNTRY

and the great volume of water which was rapidly sweeping along, proved that its source must be far inland.

The Waimea river, which bounds the agricultural country to the eastward, has deep water at its entrance, but becomes shallow and rapid a few miles from the sea: on the bar of this river, we found 15 feet at high water; and inside 3 1/2 fathoms in the channel. Vessels of 200 tons, can, therefore, with safety enter.

On the banks of these rivers, the land, for about fifteen miles from the coast, is level, and covered with fern and grass; the soil is a black mould on boulder stones, and appears an alluvial deposit. – The whole of the country around Tasman's Gulf, and far into the interior, is of granitic formation. The stone, of course, is well adapted for building; and may be obtained of every degree of hardness, and variety of colour. In the river beds, a beautifully coloured conglomerate is very abundant; and there, also, have I found marble.

Although the Nelson country is mostly covered with low herbage, there is an abundance of excellent timber growing on it, fit for both ship and house building. The Kahikatea white pine, and the Mahi, Totara, Rata, and Tawa red pines, all grow to a great size: and the forests of the best timber are all either close to the rivers, down which it may be floated, or adjacent to the bays and harbours. Several colonial trading vessels and whalers, have obtained spars for their own use, out of these woods.

Some of the finest timber which I have seen in New Zealand, is growing about three miles up the left bank of the Motu Aka. The spars which the

DESCRIPTION OF THE NELSON COUNTRY

natives have felled, are fit for the masts of any merchant vessel, being perfectly straight, and from seventy to a hundred feet in length.

A singular characteristic of the forest in the Nelson country, is the absence of parasitical plants. The "Supple-jack" and other creepers, which prove such an annoyance in travelling through other parts of the country, are here but seldom met with; and the forest may be penetrated with ease. There is also less general undergrowth, and the bush land will be cleared with less attendant expense than at Wellington.

Nelson Haven was discovered by an exploring party, while the district was being examined, previous to its adoption as the site of the settlement. The ignorance of the Surveyor-general of the Plymouth Company, of the existence of this harbour, must have been the cause of his rejection of the country, as, with it, the locality has every requisite for successful colonization.

The harbour, although not a first-rate one, is yet sufficient for the wants of the settlement: it will contain about a hundred large vessels moored fore and aft; and will admit vessels whose burthen does not exceed 500 tons. Until the tide suits, it is necessary for ships to remain at anchor in the roads off the Haven, or in some of the adjacent harbours in Tasman's Gulf. It has been proved that the roadstead is safe, by the circumstance of a vessel having rode out the heaviest gale yet experienced there, without starting her anchor. It is not necessary for vessels ever to wait longer than one tide in the roads, as the water is always smooth at the entrance of the haven; and the land and sea breezes, which regularly alternate, much facilitate their entering.

DESCRIPTION OF THE NELSON COUNTRY

The long bank which forms the haven may hereafter be converted, with but trifling expense, into a pier or mole, where vessels might lie alongside and discharge. The water is deep within a few yards of the shore, both near the bank and the beach of the town; and large ships can, with safety, be moored within half their length of it.

The town will have a beach frontage of about a mile, and will diverge from near the anchorage, along three valleys, the connecting ground between which is hilly, but not so to such an extent as to prevent its being built upon. In the centre of the site of the town is a large patch of well-timbered forest, occupying probably 100 acres: this will be sufficient for the wants of the settlement for a long period. The land around the town is not wooded, nor is there any other forest than that just mentioned within six miles of the harbour.

Coal was found by Captain Wakefield in the cliff which overhangs, in one place, the beach of the haven; it is in small quantity, but as it exists in so many other places in the vicinity, it is not improbable that it will be found to extend to larger beds. Round Cape Farewell from Cook's Strait, but only a short distance overland from Coal Bay in Tasman's Gulf, is the harbour of South Wanganui, where coal exists in great quantity. It is a bar-harbour, but can be entered by small coasting craft under a hundred tons. One cargo of this coal was taken to Wellington; but in consequence of the abundance of other fuel, was only used by the smiths. It was an excellent anthracite coal, and gave a great heat, leaving no ash, but burning quickly. It is found on the beach below high-water mark, in the river bed, and on the perpendicular side of a small

DESCRIPTION OF THE NELSON COUNTRY

island in the harbour. To obtain it, it will not be necessary to mine, as in England, but merely to excavate horizontally through the cliffs from the beach; even this trouble is not at present needful, as there is enough on the surface for the supply of all the New Zealand settlements for twenty years to come. Coal also exists on the opposite side of the promontory at Coal Bay, but no harbour is known of in its vicinity.

It is fortunate that at Nelson a convenient site of a town should have been found adjoining the agricultural district. Nelson Haven is not more than two and a half miles from the level country on the banks of the Waimea; and connecting the town with those plains is a narrow strip of land, which will be occupied by the first few suburban sections. The whole of these sections will, I believe, be within twelve miles of the town, and the country sections not more than twenty miles removed from it.

Roads may be made through the Nelson country with much ease, in consequence of its level and open character; and its extension along the shore of the gulf, on all parts of which boats may land without risk, will materially facilitate the transport of its produce.

Along the shores of Tasman's Gulf there exist a number of good harbours, exclusive of Nelson Haven. Croixille's Bay is as fine a harbour as Port Nicholson; but on account of the steepness of the surrounding land can only be used by vessels for shelter, or when refitting, and is not suited for the site of a township. There are also Port Hardy, Astrolabe Harbour, and Current Basin, all of which are of deep entrance, and afford perfect shelter. From the mouth of the Motu Aka River there are, along the shore of

DESCRIPTION OF THE NELSON COUNTRY

the gulf, a succession of small harbours, as far as Separation Point, Coal Bay: these are Kaiteriteri Cove, Astrolabe Roads, Torrent Bay, and Partridge Harbour. In none of these could a large settlement be located, as from all of them the ground rises steeply, forming a shoulder of the Rocky Point Range. There is, however, at each harbour a small extent of level land, the cultivation of which would fully reward the industry of small parties of settlers.

The climate of the country at the head of Tasman's Gulf appears better than that of Port Nicholson. During a stay of two months in the vicinity of Nelson, I only experienced one gale; and that was one which would hardly affect shipping. In Cook's Strait the winds seem much affected by the current of the tide: the most prevalent gales are from the N.W, and S.E.. which are the general directions of the shores of the Strait. In the narrow part of the Strait, where there is the greatest current, the wind is most boisterous; and I have generally noticed that heavy gales either commence or moderate at the change of tide. The current of the tide does not flow through Tasman's Gulf with the velocity that it does in the Strait, and this circumstance may account, in a measure, for the absence of the same violent winds.

From the activity and energy of Capt. Wakefield, and the numbers and efficiency of the surveying staff, it is almost certain that the town, and nearly the whole of the accommodation land, is ere now surveyed and given out.

It is to be hoped that at Nelson the settlers will meet with none of those impediments and interruptions which were so annoying and injurious at Port Nicholson; and this may with confidence be ex-

DESCRIPTION OF THE NELSON COUNTRY

pected, as the locality is in every respect satisfactory, and in the formation of the settlement the Company has neglected nothing which could insure the success of the enterprise. The only source of injury to this colony can now be the acts of the Government; and it must be presumed that the same line of conduct on its part, which was so nearly ruining the Port Nicholson settlement, will not be pursued towards this.

[Chapter IX]

CHAPTER IX.

PARTS OF NEW ZEALAND BEST ADAPTED FOR COLONIZATION.

As there is at present some notion entertained by the Government party and the adherents of the missionary interests, that the north island of New Zealand is more adapted for immediate settlement than the more central and southern portions of the country, and that the colonization of those parts is not at present expedient, I shall here make a few observations on those places that appear to me to offer the most advantage for the enterprise of English settlers.

I have already noticed that the country to the northward of the Thames is generally of so sterile a nature, in the vicinity of the best harbours, as to preclude the possibility of its ever becoming the seat of a large agricultural population; the land being, in all places where the Kauri fir grows, of a hard red clay, which yields but little on being cleared and cultivated. About the valley of the Thames the soil is better, and in some places excellent; but this is at a great distance from the harbour on which Auckland is situated; and it will be long ere this country can be sufficiently opened to admit of its settlement. About the town of Auckland there is but very little available land for immediate use, as the island is there extremely narrow, and the country very swampy.

PARTS BEST ADAPTED FOR COLONIZATION.

Had the Nelson settlement been located at Maurangi Bay, in the Thames, the place pointed out by the Governor as the proper site, the settlers would have been compelled to travel sixty miles from their town to get to their country sections, which would have been in the Waikato country, between which and their town the Auckland district would have intervened.

In the neighbourhood of the Manukao and Waikato harbours there is, from all accounts, much good land; but these harbours are of such dangerous access, that the districts around them cannot become of much value for settlement, until the establishment of steam communication on the coast: in the meantime, the harbour of Waitemata will be the chief, and almost the only outlet for the produce of the country. In consequence of its being the only safe harbour for the whole of this part of the north island, Waitemata ought certainly to be the site of a town ; but the extent of available land in its vicinity, even including the Manukao , Waikato , and Thames districts, is not sufficient to cause it to be the proper site of the capital of New Zealand.

The difficulties which I have mentioned as existing in the more northern parts of the country, certainly point out those districts to the south of Kafia , and around Cook's Straits, as most eligible for settlements.

The opinion of Mr. Bidwell, – a gentleman who had seen all parts of the country, and who at last settled at Port Nicholson, – on this subject is particularly interesting and conclusive. At the time that gentleman expressed himself so favourably of Port Nicholson, to the disparagement of the Thames, he was not a land-owner, neither had he any personal interest in

PARTS OF NEW ZEALAND BEST ADAPTED FOR COLONIZATION.

Wellington; but he was afterwards induced to expend a considerable sum in the purchase of land there.

The middle island, besides having the advantage of being peculiarly adapted for colonization, is at present the seat of a large white population. Nelson is established there with 1600 English. Akeroa, the site of the much-talked of French colony (so called), is also English, with 300; and at the whaling stations there are about 600 more. With this population, of 2500, settlement must continue; and the open nature of the country, in adapting it for the pasturage of cattle, will materially facilitate and hasten its progress.

The districts most eligible, and still open, for settlement, in the middle island, appear to be those around Molineux Harbour, and Knowsley River, and in the neighbourhood of Port Cooper, and Lookers-on Roads. At these places, are extensive and fertile plains, fit for all agricultural purposes, and connected with large interior grazing districts, which would soon, if settled, vie with those of Australia in yielding a staple article of export.

The Chatham Islands, which are now included in the New Zealand group, may be termed almost a part of the middle island, from their contiguity to it and Cook's Straits; the extent of good land on these islands, in the vicinity of commodious harbours, will soon cause their colonization, either by regular or irregular means.

The idea of confining colonization to the north island, appears to have originated with the missionaries; and in event of the probability of its being carried into effect, much to their interest would it be, as then, their extensive landed possessions would become of incalculable value. It is amusing to notice

PARTS OF NEW ZEALAND BEST ADAPTED FOR COLONIZATION.

to what a degree the proceedings of the Local Government of New Zealand have savoured of missionary enthusiasm, and how inseparably the religious and political affairs of the place have been apparently connected.

The idea however is futile in the extreme, for should systematic immigration be exclusively carried on to that part, the more southern portions will colonize themselves. As, with the advantages of fine land, fine harbours and fine climate, no part of the world can now remain waste for any length of time, whilst the over-burdening population of Europe requires an outlet.

[Chapter X. Conclusion]

CHAPTER X.

CONCLUSION.

FROM my statements and descriptions contained in the preceding pages, it may be imagined that I am prejudiced against the Local Government in New Zealand, as also against the settlement which it has founded; and that the same cause has led me to condemn the missionaries.

This, however, is not the case. The conduct of Capt. Hobson and his subordinates is alike censured in every part of the country, and the dislike and dissatisfaction evinced by all classes in the colony, amounts to something more than the effects of mere prejudice. Can any of Capt. Hobson's party state where he is popular? At Port Nicholson, the seat of half the white population of the island? It may be that he is popular there, but it scarcely appeared, on their visits to that place, that either he or his Colonial Secretary were. Is he beloved at the Bay of Islands? His suppression of the people's press there, was not the way to ensure their attachment, and the letters which are continually being received, by the Wellington settlers, demanding their commiseration and support, do not lead us to suppose that his method has succeeded.

Are the settlers at Nelson predisposed in his favour? – It is undoubtedly true that to his throwing

CONCLUSION.

obstacles in the way of their location at the place proposed, they are indebted for the discovery of the splendid district which they now occupy; but this fortuitous circumstance is not the result of any great regard for their welfare.

Turn to his own fostered settlement: no doubt the officials there are friendly to themselves, but are the inhabitants generally? – If the paper there is a popular one, (and unless supported by Government it is impossible for any other to exist in a colony,) he is not even in Auckland esteemed in his public capacity; as all the political articles in that paper are condemnatory of his measures and government.

Amongst whom then is he popular? – With none but his dependents. Never had a governor better opportunity of cultivating the esteem of those whom he was appointed to govern. On his arriving in the country, the settlers, – who had so long been beyond the protection of the British law, whose property had been insecure, and whose land was until then comparatively worthless, – hailed the event as most propitious to their interests, and received the representative of the Crown with every demonstration of respect and support: now, it is not too much to say that three-fourths of them most fervently desire his removal. This must be the effect of real oppression; not of imaginary grievances.

That I am prejudiced against all but the Company's settlements I most decidedly deny. I believe Auckland to be well situated, and that it will, in all probability, become an important and valuable colony; and I think it likely that if the locality had not been pre-occupied it would have been chosen as the site of New Plymouth, or some other of the Company's townships; but I cannot think that it is a proper

CONCLUSION.

place for the seat of government, nor do I believe that it will, for any length of time, remain the capital. I consider, also, that the other settlements in the northern part of the island will prosper: they each possess a valuable article for exportation, immediately attainable, which will support them through the first years of their existence; and although there may be attendant disadvantages, they present many inducements to the immigrant.

As to the missionaries, although the objects of the society in England are undoubtedly praiseworthy, all, who are acquainted with, must condemn their practices in the colony. Every one, not connected with their interest, who has returned from New Zealand, can bear witness to the fact that the natives have received no physical benefit from their religious instruction. If, in the course of twenty-eight years, the missionaries, who have spent as much money on their colonial establishment in New Zealand as the settlement of Wellington cost founding, have been unable to ameliorate the condition of the aborigines by the operation of their plan, which is to teach them doctrine and "chance" their improvement, it is time that they should adopt the other principle, of civilizing them first, and then improving their morals.

As regards the parts of New Zealand, or the various settlements, which offer the most advantages to the immigrant, persons who have seen the country may hold various opinions, but they all agree that it is well adapted generally for colonization. For my part, I am of opinion, that to the agriculturist, or breeder of stock, the settlements around Cook's Straits offer at present the most advantages.

To the immigrant of small capital, the country by the Wanganui river, or at Nelson, is the most suit-

CONCLUSION.

able, as it can be cleared and cultivated with the least outlay. To the settler possessed of more means, and who is not necessitated to look for immediate dependence to the soil, I would recommend the country around Port Nicholson, as being preferable on account of its extreme fertility. For rearing flocks and herds, the countries of Nelson, Wanganui, Manewatu, and New Plymouth are best adapted; and to this branch of farming I think the settler should particularly direct his attention, as it is a pursuit which, I am confident, will always prove of profit to himself, and of service to the community.

There are now no apparent obstacles to the progress of the Colony. At Wellington, in particular, the settlers have had much to discourage them ; but the crisis is now past, and every thing appears in a fair way for the speedily realization of their prospects. As in all new colonies, capital is wanted in the various settlements; but the establishment of a loan bank, which is in contemplation, for advancing money upon landed security, will much assist the small capitalist, and cause the whole of the available land around each township speedily to become settled, and of value.

It is satisfactory to find, that of seven persons now in England who have been resident in Wellington, four intend immediately returning, 10 being perfectly satisfied with the present state of the colony, and confident of its future success. I have no hesitation in saying, that in all the Company's settlements the same sentiments prevail: a few there are, undoubtedly, who are dissatisfied, and who do not neglect to send home grievous accounts of the state of things; but these are invariably men whose irregular course

CONCLUSION.

of life in England rendered any change of country, however short the duration, a matter of expediency – persons whose habits caused them to be unfit to remain at home, and whose want of industry and application renders still less fit for a colonial life. I am also certain, that all of those who, after due deliberation, emmigrated to New Zealand, with fixed views and intentions respecting their proceedings in that place, and who, since their arrival, have, by an industrious life, endeavoured to realize their expectation, do not now regret the change, but in every way prefer their adopted country.

10The writer is amongst this number.

[Appendix (A).
Observations on the Chatham Islands as a Field of Colonization]

APPENDIX (A).

OBSERVATIONS ON THE CHATHAM ISLANDS AS A FIELD FOR COLONIZATION.

TO THE GOVERNOR AND DIRECTORS OF THE NEW ZEALAND COMPANY.

GENTLEMEN : – The rapid colonization of the shores of Cook's Straits, which is at present taking place, shows that at no distant period the selection of proper and suitable localities, for the further operations of the Company, will be a subject demanding its increased consideration and attention.

The peculiar circumstances which have attended the progress of the Company's settlements, – the hostility and rivalry of the local government, – the secular interest of the missionaries, – and the spirit of detraction and opposition displayed by the landowners in the northern parts of the island, render it necessary that the field of the Company's operations should be so concentrated that its several settlements should mutually support and contribute to the advancement of each other. The location of the settlement of Nelson, in Cook's Strait, has added much to the importance and value of Wellington; and even the adherents of Government acknowledge, that if any more settlements be established on the south or middle islands, Auckland must be abandoned as the seat of government,

APPENDIX.

and Wellington eventually become the capital of New Zealand. The speedy settlement of the most fitting places to the southward of Cook's Strait is consequently an object of much importance.

The frame-work, as it were, of the colonization of the central portion of New Zealand may be termed completed. All the localities around Cook's Strait combining a sufficiency of good land with easy water communication have been selected, and are now in their various stages of settlement. An abundance of fine land, unoccupied, exists on the shores of the Strait, but, on account of the absence of harbours, can only be brought into use by the extension and growth of the settlements already planted. The districts of the rivers Wainerapa, Manewatu, Wairoa, and Patea, all of them extensive and fertile, must be settled by the spread of the population of Wellington, Petre, and Nelson. The suitability of the land around the rivers above mentioned for grazing, aided by the introduction of steam communication on the coast, will materially facilitate and hasten its settlement.

The prejudice which has, until lately, existed – fostered as it has been by the missionaries and land claimants to the northward, – has retarded the settlement of the middle island, but at present that portion of New Zealand appears to be most adapted for colonization.

The idea that the middle island is of too mountainous a nature to form a proper field for colonization has now given way to the knowledge of the existence of extensive tracts of excellent land in that country, and the attention of the Sydney and Port Nicholson merchants has been drawn towards it by the valuable produce of its numerous fisheries.

The places reported as being the best adapted for settlement, are Port Cooper, on Banks' Peninsula, and Molineux Harbour, near Otago; both of which are said to be surrounded with extensive plains of rich land, and

APPENDIX.

are described as secure harbours. The Knowsley River, in Foveaux Straits, has been said by some to present many attractions for settlement, and to communicate with an extensive and fertile inland district: and lastly the Chatham Islands, though not included in the New Zealand group, are yet not further removed from Port Nicholson than some of the harbours above named, and present advantages superior to those of any other unsettled part of the Company's purchase.

To obtain accurate information on the capabilities of the southern portions of New Zealand, it is extremely desirable that some attempt should be made to explore thoroughly its coast, as but very little is known respecting it, and but a small portion of what is known has been made public. Many good harbours have been discovered within the last two years; and it is more than probable that many more exist, possessing all the requisites for settlement.

Several sealers, and persons engaged on the coast, have repeatedly assured me that many bays and inlets exist which would afford good shelter for vessels, and are in every way adapted for settlement, but which are not generally known. The discovery of the harbour and capabilities of the fine district now occupied by the Nelson settlement, affords an example of what benefit may accrue, even from a partial examination of the coast.

Not having seen any of the southern districts, before alluded to, I must confine my notice to those parts with which I am acquainted, and shall now make some observations on the merits of the Chatham Islands, as an intended site for one of the Company's settlements.

The position of the Chatham Islands certainly points them out as a suitable locality for colonization. Lying, as they do, in the centre of the whaling ground of the southern fishery, within two or three days' sail of the

APPENDIX.

settlements in Cook's Strait, and in the direct homeward bound track of vessels from the adjacent colonies – possessing a fertile soil, equable climate, and safe harbours, of easy access, – they must, ere long, become of considerable importance.

The quantity of land in Chatham's Island has been estimated at 200,000 acres; this, from the recent accounts of persons who have been resident in the island for a considerable period, and who have had the best opportunities of judging, I believe to be far short of the real amount. 300,000 acres is more probably a nearer estimate of the quantity, exclusive of the lagoons, which, when at their height, cover about 50,000 acres. Out of the extent of land above mentioned, about 120,000 acres are available for immediate agricultural purposes, and an extra 50,000 might be made available by a small outlay in draining. The remainder would afford excellent pasturage for sheep, at the rate of two or three to the acre, and in the low grounds for a proportionate number of cattle.

The relative position of the Chatham Islands, would, in event of their colonization, conduce materially to the final supremacy of Wellington over the more northern settlements. The distance of Port Wakefield from Port Nicholson is 360 miles, the voyage may be performed in two or three days with a fair wind, and the straight course from one harbour to the other renders the distance virtually less from Wellington, than from that port to either Auckland or the Bay of Islands.

The Chatham Islands first attracted the attention of the Sydney merchants in 1828, when a number of small vessels were fitted out by them to cruise in the vicinity of the Chatham and Auckland groups, in the pursuit of the seals which abounded on the coast and on the reefs and islands situate near those places. Shore parties were also left on the principal islands, and for some time the trade proved very profitable, the numbers captured being very

APPENDIX.

great. About 1832, however, from the increasing scarcity of the seals, the pursuit was abandoned.

Soon after the termination of the seal-fishing, the French and American whalers began to resort to the harbours of the Chathams in consequence of the number of whales which were found in their vicinity. They preferred the Chathams as a place to refit at, in consequence of the mildness of the winter season, as also on account of the abundance of provisions which could at all times be obtained there by traffic with the natives. As many as thirty whalers, French and American, have lain in Port Wakefield in one winter, engaged in stowing their oil and provisioning for the ensuing season ; while their boats would lie off the heads of the harbour, occasionally capturing "fish" there. The French ships have, however, lately been deterred from visiting the islands from the circumstance of one of them having, at Poata or Ocean Bay, been seized by the natives in consequence of some misunderstanding having arisen between them and the crew. The Americans continue to visit the islands, not being so easily intimidated as the French, and are always able to maintain a friendly intercourse with the natives.

During the stay of the Cuba , there were not fewer than five or six vessels always in the two principal harbours, and ships were continually arriving and departing. A colonial vessel also left a shore-party to whale at Oinga, near the south-eastern corner of the island. Mr. Hanson established also a whaling party at Waikerri, likewise on the eastern side, where great numbers of whales had been seen. These parties, captured but few whales that year, in consequence of the fishing season having almost terminated ere they were established. Mr. Hanson's party obtained only fifteen tons of oil, and at the other station they met with about the same success. During the next season, however, they were more fortunate, and the party at Waikerri secured between thirty and forty tons of oil,

APPENDIX.

and a considerable quantity of bone. This was considered a fair quantity, taking into account the small number of boats employed, and the circumstances of the parties having been neglected by the owners, and left entirely to their own resources. Had these parties been properly supplied with the necessary stores and implements, the returns would doubtless have been highly profitable to those engaged in the speculation. The whalers speak in high terms of their localities, and much prefer them to the Cook's Strait stations.

The climate of the Chathams is equal to that of New Zealand in point of salubrity, and possesses the advantage of not being subject to such boisterous winds as prevail in some parts of that country. Though Port Wakefield is situated several degrees of latitude to the southward of Wellington, the winter season is there equally as mild as in the latter place; and the health which our party enjoyed, while subject to much exposure in exploring the country in the coldest season, sufficiently proves the congeniality of the climate.

The soil is fully equal in richness and fertility to that in New Zealand, and the natives say, that their plantations are more productive by one-third than they were in Port Nicholson or Taranake, – the countries from whence they originally emigrated, – and when the capability of the soil in those places is considered, an idea may be formed of the advantages which would attend farming in the Chathams.

About Port Wakefield, potatoes grown in the native method yield sixteeen tons per acre, and in every cultivated part of the island the produce has been immense. In two or three cases where the natives had attempted the English method of culture, it was found that the luxuriance of the soil was too great, and the potatoes ran to stalk. Mr. McClatchie, the superintendent of the fishery at Waikerri, cleared and planted about twenty acres of woodland, close

APPENDIX.

to the beach at that place, and the produce of the portion planted with corn exceeded all expectation as to quantity.

The natural resources of the islands are certainly great. The whale fisheries on its shores must prove a source of wealth to those engaged in them, when they are conducted in an efficient manner. Five shore stations, on the northern and eastern sides of the island, may be worked with advantage, and the produce of these, in an infant colony, would be of much importance in producing an immediate article of export.

A third fishery has been established this year; it is located at Kainga-roa Bay, on the north side of the island; the site appears well chosen, and the whalers are confident of its success.

In consequence of sperm-whales having been caught off the shores of the islands, two vessels have been fitted out from Sydney to whale in the vicinity of the Chat-hams, with instructions never to go out of sight of the islands; and it is expected that it will be found an advantageous station.

One cause of the indifferent success which has hitherto attended the fisheries in the Chathams, is the circumstance of the parties there having to contend with the crews of foreign vessels, which, as in New Zealand, lie at anchor in the bays, and intercept the whales as they come in towards the shore. The enforcement of the law for the protection of the British fisheries is therefore of much consequence.

The great number of whale-ships which are continually cruising in their vicinity, proves the Chathams to be a fit locality for shore-fishing, and that that pursuit would be attended with many advantages, were it conducted on regular and efficient principles, as the expence of establishing a shore-party is not to be compared with that of the purchase and equipment of a whaling vessel.

The "phormium tenax," or New Zealand flax, in the

APPENDIX.

Chathams, grows with the greatest luxuriance, and is very plentiful: there can be no doubt that, ere long, this will become a valuable export from New Zealand, and, when it does, will certainly supersede every other branch of agriculture.

The forests in the Chathams abound with the same birds as are indigenous to New Zealand. Pigeons and water-fowl are in abundance, and the latter especially are numerous. Myriads of water-fowl are to be seen in the lagoons at all seasons; and in the moulting time, the birds being incapacitated for flight, the whalers and natives obtain great quantities of them by killing them with dogs and sticks.

The same fish that are found on the coast of New Zealand may be caught in plenty in Port Wakefield, and all the bays. The great apuko, the snapper, and the crayfish, are very numerous, and are cured at the whaling stations for winter provisions.

The existence of coal in these islands will be a matter of much importance, in the event of a line of steam communication being established between New Zealand and South America; and, in other respects, the Chathams form an excellent station for homeward bound vessels to touch at in their voyage from the Australian colonies or New Zealand.

As in New Zealand, the natives of the Chathams evince a great desire for the settlement of their land by white people: they, however, object to the missionaries. It would be an interesting experiment, by colonizing this place, to ascertain whether the physical condition of savages improves most rapidly by instructing them in doctrine; or by showing them, and creating in them a desire for, the comforts of a civilized life.

Although a war, vainly endeavoured to be brought to a termination by Mr. Hanson, the Company's agent, exists amongst the New Zealand natives of the Chathams, they

APPENDIX.

do not allow their private feud to interfere with the security of the English resident in the islands, to whom they have always shown the greatest kindness. The belligerent tribes say, that in event of the settlement of their place by Europeans, they would be content to relinquish the expression of their mutual hostility, and follow the white man in his regular manner of life. It is, therefore, to be considered whether, to prevent their extirpation, – the sure result of the present system of massacre which they practise, – it would not be humanely advisable to encourage them to industry and civilization, which desiderata will, amongst New Zealanders, always follow the regular colonization of their country.

A great facility to the advancement of a settlement, should one he formed at the Chathams, is in the nature of the country being such as to allow of its cultivation at a very small comparative outlay. In this respect it is similar to the Nelson district, at the head of Tasman's Gulf.

The expense attendant on clearing bush-land, as in the Port Nicholson district, always forms a serious drawback and impediment to the rapid advancement of an infant colony: and although the extraordinary fertility of that kind of land may far more than repay the agriculturist in his first year's crop, the apparent difficulties deter many small capitalists from farming, and cause them to turn their attention to mercantile affairs, while agriculture is their only certain source of wealth.

Much of the land in the Chathams is pre-eminently adapted for pasturage; and this, again, is an advantage of no trifling moment in the first days of a small community.

Should the Chatham Islands become the seat of one of the Company's settlements, Port Wakefield, being a harbour of easy access and considerable security, would be the most fitting place for the location of the township.

APPENDIX.

The district which surrounds it is the best in the islands, and the communication between the harbour and the various parts of the country would be materially facilitated by the line of the Nairn River, and the several approximating lagoons.

Port Wakefield, also, has the advantage of possessing on its shores an excellent site for a town, with facilities for communication, at all times, between the shore and the shipping.

I would respectfully submit, that, in event of the Chathams attracting the attention of the Company, as a proper locality for any of its future operations, the most advantageous and convenient way of settling the place would be, by following, in a measure, the method adopted in the formation of the New Plymouth settlement.

The town should comprise, in the first instance, five hundred acres, and two hundred and fifty acres might be reserved as extension land, to be subdivided and sold when most desirable, in the colony.

The five hundred acres of town land might be laid out and sold in quarter or half acre allotments; and the reserved land might be sold in any way that might appear desirable to subsequent purchasers. The town land should be sold separately, for the convenience of those who might be inclined to purchase it alone; as also for that of the agricultural settler, to whom it would be an inducement to purchase, as he would know that the speculation of absentees would be almost entirely confined to the town lands; and that the country in the vicinity of this farm would not be lying waste, and forming an obstruction to communication, but would be occupied by those, who, like himself, were immediately interested in the agricultural progress of the colony.

Round the town, about ten or twelve thousand acres might be laid out as accommodation land, in allotments of fifty acres each. To these sections I am inclined to

APPENDIX.

attach more value than they have hitherto been calculated to possess, as from their relative position to the town, they derive peculiar advantages; and in the Chathams, while each section in that block would have the facilities of communication of either river, or sea frontage, every acre in the section might be guaranteed as available land. The minimum price of these sections, I am of opinion, should be five pounds per acre.

The price at which land in the valley of the Hutt, which is the same as suburban or accommodation land, was purchased as soon as selected, proves the great value of such sections; and if from nine hundred to one thousand five hundred pounds could be given in the colony, where money is in such demand, for these sections, many of which were swampy, and all heavily timbered, the equivalent land, if equally rich, surrounding the chief town in any new settlement, ought certainly to fetch in England the price above calculated.

For one hundred thousand acres of rural land the usual price of thirty shillings per acre might be obtained, and this, I am of opinion, would meet with a ready sale, in consequence of its being already known that this quantity of land, in every way available for immediate agricultural purposes, exists ; and also from the circumstances of the district having been explored, and the nature and advantages of each portion of it being understood.

At the time of the sale of the land in the four settlements which the Company has founded, the purchasers had not any idea as to the locality to be settled; and while many purchased their land, fully confident in the propriety of the selection which would be made by the Company's agent, to whom it was intrusted, yet, probably, an equal number (especially in the instance of the Nelson settlement) deferred purchasing until some account should be received of the location of the colony; and by the time that that intelligence was received, had

APPENDIX.

lost their first speculative impulse, and had abandoned their ideas of becoming landowners or settlers.

Through the security of the Company by its charter of incorporation, as well as through the substantial situation which it has attained in public opinion, and more especially by its large amount of capital, it is now in a position to act with less immediate dependence on its necessarily fluctuating annual receipts, and it is no longer requisite the preparation of a district, for the location of settlers upon it, should be deferred until after the proceeds of its sale had been obtained.

If that portion of the Chatham Islands, which it might be the intention of the Company to colonize, were surveyed preparatory to its sale and selection, a different spirit would actuate the purchasers, and the confidence and safety which they would feel in the investment, (which would be made after every requisite information had been laid before them,) would cause an emulation and competition amongst them, which has not as yet been experienced.

The quantity of land sold would, on this plan, be one hundred and ten thousand acres, including the town, but, of course, exclusive of the reserves, and its proceeds would be two hundred and twelve thousand five hundred pounds.

Allowing the area of Chatham Island to be two hundred and fifty thousand acres, the quantity of land sold by the Company, in the first instance, would not be more than half the extent of the island, but the quantity would be sufficient for the wants of the first settlement, and the smallness of it would insure the preliminary purchasers gaining the best land in the country.

In various parts of the island it would be expedient, and almost necessary, to establish smaller towns within a short time after the founding of the principal one. At Port Hutt, the chief harbour in the grazing district; at Long's Bay, or Coal Haven, and at the various whaling

APPENDIX.

stations the sites of small towns, of about two hundred acres each, should be reserved: three of them might be sufficient, and would be of great convenience to the settlers in their vicinity.

The land which remained, probably about 100,000 acres, after the appropriation of the quantity first sold, might be holden by the Company, and leased by it to graziers, for whose pursuits it would be particularly applicable, alike with profit and advantage to either party. The revenue derived from this, together with the proceeds of the subsequent sales of the minor townships and of the extension land of the first settlement, would, probably, fully defray the contingent annual expense of the Company's local establishment.

It is extremely desirable that in the plan for the formation of any new settlement by the Company, a fund should be considered and set apart, out of the proceeds of the land sales, for the construction of roads, as the rapid progress of an agricultural colony is entirely dependent on, and in a measure caused by, the facilities given for inland communication.

The reservation of monies for the instruction and religious improvement of the newly formed community, is certainly a great desideratum, but of decided inferiority of importance to that of a road fund; for it has been proved, by experience, that in every instance of the formation of a colony, the settlers are for some time deterred by the difficulties, real or imaginary, which attend the commencement of agricultural pursuits, and finding that an apparently profitable employment for their capital is open to them in trading and commercial speculation, abandon all present ideas of cultivating their land.

At Port Nicholson, other and weighty circumstances have had their influence on the capitalists, and hindered their expenditure upon land, yet the difficulties of communication with the several surveyed districts have been a

APPENDIX.

chief cause of the settlement of so small a number on the country lands: and although the Company has done much, and more than could have been expected of it, to remedy this defect, a great deal more must be done before the occupation of the rural sections can be extensive.

In the early days of a colony's existence it is a matter of impossibility for the resident landowners to form roads and the necessary public works by themselves, unassisted by the Government or any powerful body in the country which they have left, as, until by the successful cultivation of their land they begin to feel their substantiality, they will not expend money on an object, which improves, but does not form a part, of their property. The large number of non-resident landowners, which there must necessarily be connected with every new settlement, and who cannot be subject to immediate taxation, is also a serious impediment to the progress of internal improvements.

Government taxation for the formation of the means of internal communication may cause the existence of excellent roads, &c., six or eight years after the arrival of the first settlers; but at the first, when of all times it is most necessary that the settlers should betake themselves to agricultural pursuits, the population is small and the taxation must necessarily be inadequate to the purpose; and even at this time many of the settlers will have their land at some distance in the interior.

I am confident in the belief that with the guarantee on the part of the Company, of the construction of a road, however rough it might be so as not to be impassable, communicating with each country section, purchasers (and more particularly those intending to become settlers – to whom every encouragement should be given) would not object to the proportionate increase in the original price of the land.

In the Chatham Islands, in consequence of the con-

APPENDIX. 131

tinuous line for communication by water afforded by the Nairn and the lagoons, the formation of roads of any considerable lengths would not be immediately requisite: a few short tram-roads formed of the felled timber, in the forest districts, connecting the water lines, as portages, would be sufficient for the colony in its early stage: an appropriation of half-a-crown per acre, of the purchase money would, I am of opinion, be sufficient to thoroughly open the country to the first settlers.

On the plan here recommended, the receipts and expenditure of the Company in the formation of a settlement at the Chatham Island, would be as follows.

The estimated quantity of land in the Chatham Island being 250,000 acres: –
Town to consist of 500 acres, which being sold separately and by auction, would fetch 25 pounds per acre, at an average £12,500

Accommodation land consisting of 10,000 acres and sold at a minimum price of 5l . per acre ..... 50,000

Rural land consisting of 100,000 acres at 1l . 10s. per acre .... 150,000

Total of land sold 110,500 acres; for 212,500

Contingent expenditure:

Emmigration fund at 15s. per acre . 82,875

Road fund at 2s. 6d. per acre . . 13,812 10

Cost of preliminary expedition . . 50,000

Total 146,687

Total receipts ..... 212,500

Total expenditure .... 146,687

Company's profit .... £65,813

APPENDIX.

Extent of Native Reserves in the first instance, 11,000 acres.
Remaining land, to be let for grazing, and reserved for future minor towns 129,000 acres: the monies derived from which would defray the Company's subsequent expences in the Colony.

I am, Gentlemen,
Your most obedient and obliged servant,

CHARLES HEAPHY.

[Appendix (B).]

APPENDIX (B). SPIRIT OF THE LATEST INTELLIGENCE.

THE summary of the intelligence received from Port Nicholson, since the writing of the foregoing pages, is certainly favourable, and, in its measure, confirms the substantiality of the opinions expressed relative to the rapid advancement of that colony and its prospect of final supremacy.

By the accounts from the various settlements of the Company, it appears that the inhabitants (and more especially those of Wellington and Wanganui) are, by their energy and determination, ensuring rapidly the realization of their primary views and intentions, all their communications breathing a spirit of satisfaction and confidence.

Nor do the settlers in the more northern parts of the island seem to be inactive, though, having to contend with the disadvantages of an expensive, yet inefficient government, which in New Zealand, as in most of the colonies, is in its executive, always second to private enterprise. In all the settlements, however, it would appear that the population are, by experience, becoming aware that on production and not on exchange alone must be their dependence.

The most important of the intelligence from Wellington is the account of the extraordinary produce of the soil in that district: and from the large scale on which some of the agriculturists are conducting their operations, an estimate, nearer approaching the truth, may now be obtained of the risk and profits which attend the cultivation of land in that colony.

Mr. Molesworth has cleared, in the Hutt Valley, about

APPENDIX.

120 acres of wood-land; and the following extract from the Wellington Spectator of Jan. 8th, exhibits the advantageous results of his enterprize.

"That gentleman," (says the paper) "is digging his potatoe crop on the Hutt. He has tested the quantity produced upon an acre, and the result is most satisfactory. His calculations were made upon six tons to the acre, while the produce has been twelve tons per acre. He has sold some of them at 12l . per ton, or at the rate of 144l . per acre. This price, of course, is not looked for. At 51. per ton, 60l. per acre would be received. The cost of fencing, clearing, putting in, hoeing up, and digging this crop, will not amount to 30l . per acre. So that at 5l . per acre, one hundred per cent, profit will be returned for the first outlay. This return, too, is for six months. The same ground will again be planted with potatoes and the crop harvested about June. The expenses of clearing, fencing, and seed potatoes may be deducted from this crop. These deductions should reduce the cost of the next crop to about 16l . per acre. Supposing it to yield eight tons per acre, and that they fetch 5l . per ton, 40l . will be the return for an outlay of 16l . for six months. This is a pretty good proof that the often commiserated wretches of Port Nicholson will not be able to pursue agriculture with profit!

"We have been informed that Messrs. Bowler and Smith have cut down the wood upon 86 acres of land in the neighbourhood of the Hutt. Mr. Frank Johnson will have shortly cut down wood upon an equal quantity of land, on his section upon the Porirua Road.

"We are pleased to notice the increased inclination to resort to the bush. We are anxious to furnish a correct statement of the quantity of land in cultivation, and being cleared by Europeans. We believe the quantity is ample to prove our population to have been industrious; and information of the kind would be exceedingly interesting to our friends in Europe."

APPENDIX.

Accompanying this extract is the account of the first annual show of the Horticultural Society in Wellington, by which it appears that many, and deserved, rewards had been given for varieties of fruits and vegetables, and the encouragement extended alike to the native as to the white inhabitant. Had the missionaries ever offered rewards to the New Zealanders for their improvement in agriculture, it would probably have been conducive to their personal benefit, and, at all events, would have stimulated their industry.

The Wellington Gazette , in reporting the show, says, that "among the more remarkable productions were the cabbages grown by Mr. Burcham within thirty yards of the sea-beach at Petoni, one a Hybrid, weighing 21 1/2lbs., the other an early Fulham weighing 121bs.; if these cabbages had been cut three weeks earlier, they would have weighed at least 41bs. more, as they were past their prime. Some of the potatoes exhibited by Mr. Molesworth, grown from native seed, measured nine inches in length. Specimens of the red flat turnip were exhibited 19 inches in circumference and weighing 2 1/2lbs., and of the common white turnip, 21 inches in circumference and weighing 31bs. The wheat measured five feet seven inches in length and the ears were remarkably full. Nor must we omit stating that the apples exhibited by Baron Alzdorf, are the first fruits of trees brought from England, and which are in admirable order."

The annual festivities, in commemoration of the arrival of the first colony, were again taking place, proving the settlement not to be in such a miserable condition as some in England would wish it to be supposed, but in a sufficiently lively position to be able to expend a considerable sum in matters unconnected with its support.

The news from Nelson is satisfactory. The favourable opinion which Captain Wakefield entertained of the locality selected is supported by that of the subsequent

APPENDIX.

visitors from the other settlements – good practical judges of colonial land affairs.

Ten vessels had visited Port Nelson, which they entered and left without sustaining injury. The immigrant ships Fifeshire , Mary Anne , Lloyd's , and Lord Auckland had arrived; and through the efficiency of the surveying staff, and the vigour with which its operations had been conducted, much of the district had been surveyed; and, the plan of Nelson being already on paper, the town lands would soon be open for selection.

The opinion of the Nelson settlers will shortly be received, and I am confident that they will confirm all that has been said of the excellence of the locality.

Although in England the affairs in this colony are by some pictured as having arrived at a crisis of misfortune, it does not appear that the local rivals of the Company's settlements are able to maintain similar ideas ; for not only does Capt. Hobson acknowledge the prosperity of Wellington in his speech at the opening of the session of Council, but the Australian prints find it impossible any longer to contend with facts, and at last own the success of the New Zealand enterprise. An Adelaide paper contains the following paragraph : –

"Late arrivals from Cook's Strait announce the advantageous selection of the site of the Nelson colony (the New Zealand Company's second settlement), in what has been termed Blind Bay, but now more applicably named Tasman's Gulf. The country thereabout is described as more free from forest than that to the northward, and as excellently adapted for sheep pasturage, for which some say the greater part of the middle island is pre-eminently suited, being of a similar nature to the country between Lake Torrens and the Murray. At Wellington, or Britannia, as it was first called, there are not less than 5000 white inhabitants; and it was by all expected that the

APPENDIX.

seat of Government would shortly be removed thither, which, with deference to the opinion of the Governor of New Zealand, we certainly think the most preferable situation. Commerce was thriving at Port Nicholson and Wanganui (a place we have not before heard of), and vessels from Sydney and Van Dieman's Land found a ready market for their cargoes. We wish the colony well, and, knowing the system on which the Company have founded it, a system essentially similar to that of our own, we can confidently predict its success."

Another colonial print observes –

"Everything is prospering at Wellington. The Colonel still conducts the affairs of the colony with singular temper and skill; coming events will try his judgment most severely; but if he continue to display the same sound sense which has hitherto guided his actions in the various arduous responsibilities that he has so successfully overcome, we doubt not that in him will become vested the virtual, though not the nominal, government of the island.

"It is extraordinary with what rapidity this colony has gone a-head in spite of the obstacles with which it has had to contend."

Governor Hobson is also at length obliged to acknowledge that the chief settlement of the Company is neither so insignificant, nor its inhabitants in such a state of destitution as he had before described. In his speech previously referred to, he says, "Since the last meeting of the Council, I have visited Port Nicholson, the site of the New Zealand Company's first and principal settlement. From the zeal and vigour with which the Company have conducted their operations, the enterprising, energetic, and independent character of their settlers, and from the natural advantages of its harbour, there can be no doubt that Port Nicholson will soon become a very valuable and important settlement. From my own personal know-

APPENDIX.

ledge of the character of the gentlemen selected as the leaders of the Company's more recent settlements, I should anticipate with equal confidence, the successful establishment of Taranake and Blind Bay."

Notwithstanding this public admission of the importance of the Wellington settlement by the Governor, he does not appear to trouble himself with its wants, or with any desire for its prosperity; nor have the political affairs of the colony, generally, improved during the last few months of which we have intelligence. While the local Government remains unchanged, but little alteration for the better can with reasonableness be expected; for the same blind fatuity which characterised the first proceedings of Governor Hobson, seems still to dictate measures similarly inefficient, which his Colonial Secretary (with the recurrence of whose name the reader must be wearied) has not ability or tact enough to make appear in their least offensive light.

The most important of the measures which have been brought before Council is the Municipal Corporation Bill, which, when passed into law, will, to a considerable degree, give the settlers a representation that will tend to secure them from the more petty acts of annoyance of a hostile Government.

In no way will the benefit of its operation be felt more strongly than in the result of the power of the appointment of police magistrates and officers being vested in the corporate bodies.

The immediate influence which a harsh and oppressive exercise of the magisterial authority has on those who are within its jurisdiction, is the primary cause of greater dissatisfaction and opposition, than more weighty and lasting objectionable political measures; and on the part of government, is impolitic in the extreme, as it fails not to arouse every voice in condemnation.

The determined opposition which the people of Welling-

APPENDIX.

ton, have, at all times, shown to the acts of the Governor, may be accounted for by the dissatisfied state of public feeling, which was first excited by the bitterly insulting behaviour of Mr. Shortland towards them, followed, as it has been, by acts of both negative and positive oppression.

The police magistrate, 11 resident at Wanganui, we learn from the Gazette, is, in every particular, following the example of his predecessor in Wellington; and as the settlements on the northern shore of Cook's Strait, grow into maturity, the future government will have to attribute their want of the confidence of the settlers there, to the circumstance of the appointment (in the early stage of the colony) of a magistrate, whose wishes and intentions seem to be those of intimidating the inhabitants, and thwarting the prospects of the colony.

The investment, in corporate bodies, of the power of conducting local improvements, will be conducive of much benefit to the townships of Wellington and Nelson. At Port Nicholson especially, its effects will be conspicuous, as there, the many public works, which the government has declined executing, will no longer be neglected. To the site of the town, at that place, a large extent of ground will be added, by taking it in from the harbour; which will also be advantageous in improving the facilities of the port. Public quays will also be erected, and lights and signal stations established. By the powers of the corporation extending over the district, as well as the town, roads will be constructed for the interior communication.

Much inconvenience has lately been experienced in Wellington, from the want of lights and beacons, for the guidance of strangers into the harbour. To a port, commanding the traffic which that of Wellington does, the

APPENDIX.

offices of Harbour Master, and Pilot, are most necessary, in fact, are indispensable; and on the recent occurrence of some heavy gales on the coast, much property was lost through the absence of distinguishing marks and guides for the harbour. Two ships were stranded, and another received considerable injury, while running for the port, the entrance of which, though of easy access, is not always immediately discernible. In justice to the anchorage, it must be added, that during the gales, no ships in it, drove, or received the least injury.

The circumstance of two vessels, bound to the port with valuable cargoes, being wrecked at the same time, of course caused a commotion amongst the settlers; and at a Public Meeting that resulted, there were not wanting some to asperse the New Zealand Company and its Agent, with charges of alleged indifference to the wants of the colony. These were, however, met with able and just refutation, it being proved that Colonel Wakefield had expended judiciously all the means placed at his disposal, for the immediately necessary public improvements. Nor could the Company, in this instance, with any justice, be charged with neglect, as the duty of local improvement did not attach to them, they being in possession of no fund for the purpose; but who, nevertheless, knowing the attendant wants of the Colony in its early stage, had expended very large sums (exclusive of the expenses of immigration and survey) in promoting its advancement.

As the country around the site of the first settlement is explored and becomes known, the advantages of its locality become still more apparent. By the reports of the recent expeditions to the Manewatu and Wairarappa vallies, we find that the detailed information which they contain confirm the reality of the more general, and in some cases almost speculative, accounts which were at first made known. The examination of these districts

APPENDIX.

proves Port Nicholson to be surrounded by much valuable and excellent land for the operations of the agriculturists, and to be seated in the midst of a country which will continue, as it at present is, the most important and attractive in the New Zealand islands.

11Mr. G. F. Dawson.

[Appendix (C)]

APPENDIX (C).

A TABLE OF DUTIES OF CUSTOMS Payable on Goods, Wares, and Merchandise, which shall be imported into any Port or place in the Colony of New Zealand and its Dependencies, on or after the 1st of July, 1841.

£ s. d.

On all Spirits, the produce or manufacture of the United Kingdom, of Her Majesty's possessions in America, and of New South Wales and Van Dieman's Land, for every gallon not exceeding the strength of proof ... 0 4 0

On all other Spirits, per gallon ..... 0 5 0

Tobacco, from and after 1st January, 1842

Snuff and Cigars, per lb. ....... 0 2 0

Manufactured ....... 0 1 0

Unmanufactured ....... 0 0 9

Wine, for every 100l . value ...... 15 0 0

Tea, sugar, flour, meal, wheat, rice, and other grains and pulse, for every 100l . value ..0 5 0

All Foreign goods, for every 100l . value . .10 0 0

All British produce and manufactures, as well as those from New South Wales and Van Dieman's Land, except spirits ..... Free.

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By their use of these ebooks, texts and images, users agree to follow these conditions of use:

These ebooks, texts and images may not be used for any commercial purpose without permission from the University of Auckland Library.

These ebooks, texts and images may not be re-published in print or electronic form without permission from the University of Auckland Library. However, educators are welcome to print out items and hand them to their students.

Users are not permitted to download our ebooks, texts, and images in order to mount them on their own servers for public use or for use by a set of subscribers. Individuals and institutions can, of course, make a link to the copies at ENZB, subject to our conditions of use. It is not in our interest or that of our users to have uncontrolled subsets of our holdings available elsewhere on the Internet. We make corrections, add tags, add images, etc. on a continual basis, and we want the most current text to be the only one generally available to all Internet users.

These texts can potentially be used as the basis for additional TEI tagging or for some other etext or ebook project, but we ask that you let us know before you start, so that we can coordinate work on that text and make sure that we are not working on it simultaneously. We would like a copy of the improved text for our collections.

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