New Zealand [Vol.II] [Capper reprint, 1974]

Joel Samuel Polack

First published by Richard Bentley in 1838

Digitised and made available online by the University of Auckland Libraries and Learning Services.

Epub © 2013 Early New Zealand Books Collection

ISBN 978-1-927279-05-2

[FRONTISPIECE]

Kororarika, Bay of Islands, New Zealand, 1836
[N.B. In some copies of this book the illustrations in Volumes I and II are transposed]

[TITLE PAGE]

NEW ZEALAND:

BEING
A NARRATIVE
OF
TRAVELS AND ADVENTURES
DURING A RESIDENCE IN THAT COUNTRY BETWEEN
THE YEARS 1831 AND 1837.

BY J. S. POLACK, ESQ. MEMBER OF THE COLONIAL SOCIETY OF LONDON.

IN TWO VOLUMES.
VOL. II.

LONDON: RICHARD BENTLEY, NEW BURLINGTON STREET,
Publisher in Ordinary to Her Majesty
MDCCC.XXXVIII.

[TITLE VERSO]

LONDON:
SCHULZE AND CO., 13, POLAND STREET.

REPRINT PUBLISHED BY

CAPPER PRESS

CHRISTCHURCH NEW ZEALAND 1974

Printed offset by The Caxton Press, Christchurch from the copy in the Canterbury Public Library, Christchurch

[CONTENTS]

CONTENTS TO THE SECOND VOLUME.

CHAPTER I.

Cannibalism of the New Zealanders – Anecdotes attesting the facts – Anathemas of the natives – Systematic treachery towards each other – Murder of a flax collector – Native ideas respecting treachery – Ingenuity in workmanship – Art of carving – Manufactures – Canoes – Fishing nets – Method of erecting houses designed for various purposes.. ... . . 1

CHAPTER II.

European ammunition – Its introduction and subsequent effects – Implements of war formerly in use – Causes promoting native warfare – Battle of Kororarika – On Chieftainship – The system of Utu or satisfaction – Campaign of 1837 in the Bay of Islands – Crusade in Hokianga – Fortifications of the natives – Aremic stices – Preserving of human heads – Methods in use to deify deceased chiefs – Their lying in state – Ceremonies – Sacrifices of human victims – Immolation of wives – Industry of the people – Calumny and feeling of disaffection towards each other......... 35

CHAPTER III.

Native presents – Intercourse and visits of ceremony – Surnames – Confidence and secrecy – Notions of theft illustrated – Native generosity – Cunning and importunity – Sullenness – Obstinacy – Feelings of shame –

Slaves and slavery – Taking of the "John Dunscombe" by a slave tribe – Population – Difference in the manners and habits of the northern and southern inhabitants – Raupara – Atrocities committed by European ship-masters among the natives, etc,. . ..... . 79

CHAPTER IV.

Adventures in Tolaga Bay – Our arrival – Anchor up the river – Battle among rival tribes – Jealousy of the people towards each other – Arrival of the Chief Kani – Presented with relics of Captain Cook – Description of Uwoua – Perforated valley – Cave of Tupia – Cook's Well – Native drawings – Isle of Arches – Remarkable Caverns – A Whale Hunt – Ingenuity of the people – Native Artists. . . . .... . 116

CHAPTER V.

Establishment of the Church Missionary Society – The difficulties met with – Misconduct of the early members – Missionary travels – Stations of the Church Missionary Society – Wesleyan Methodist Missionary Society – Its establishment at Wangaroa – Subsequent ejectment by hostile tribes – Settlement at Hokianga – Improvement of the people – Visit to Hokianga – Influence of missionaries – Destruction of the "Boyd" – Causes assigned at the present day – Attack on the "Endeavour" – Capture and loss of the"Mercury. " .......... 142

CHAPTER VI.

Biographical notices of E'Ongi – His protection to the missionaries – His visit to Sidney and to England – Introduction to George the Fourth – His return – Battles

CONTENTS.

at the Thames – East cape – North cape and Hokianga – His death – Apotheosis and exhumation – Character – Wangaroa, its desolation – Attempt of the natives at Hokianga to destroy the "Governor Macquarie" – Ship building in that river – Shipwreck of the Enterprise, Herald, New Zealander – Byron, and Lynx – Hostility of the natives – Their laws on shipwreck. ... ... ... . 178

CHAPTER VII.

Land purchased by European settlers – On the want of a local government – Introduction of commercial arts – Stability of purchases of land – Immorality and false claims of many shipmasters – European claims that are regarded as futile among the natives – Precautions necessary to be observed in purchasing land – The author's purchase of land at Taiaruru Kororarika and the district of Waitangi – Variety of claimants – Services rendered by the missionaries – Letter from some chiefs to William the Fourth – Arrival of the British resident – Choice of a national standard – Conduct of a portion of the natives to the resident – The Baron de Thierry – His arrival.. ... . . . . 199

CHAPTER VIII.

Religion and devout feelings of the New Zealanders – Origin of their divinities – Their mythology – Attributes – Power and conduct in heaven and on earth – Native conversations – Duties appertaining to a gentleman in New Zealand – Power of the "gods" over Europeans – On priests and the sacerdotal functions attached – Their method of curing diseases – Sacrifices – Incantations – An unknown tongue – Anathemas of the people – Native interdict – Tithes, their collection.......225

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER IX

Prohibition or tapu – Conduct of children – Phrenological notices – Sacred animals – Ventriloquism of the priesthood – Remorse of the natives, and dubious atonement – Baptismal rites – Dreams – Native barbers – Anecdotes detailing the superstitions of the natives – On bewitching – Death of a slave – Superstitions of the evil eye – Second sight – Cemeteries- -Feelings of devotion and hypocrisy in their conduct – Astonishment of the natives at first beholding Europeans – Traditions of the visits of former white men – Modern Centaurs – Deification of Asses – Pathology – Materia Medica of the natives – On the language of the South Sea islanders – Numerals in use by fifty different nations, conterraneous with the ancestors of the New Zealanders. ....... 252

CHAPTER X.

Decrease of the flax trade – Difficulties incident to the life of a flax collector – Capture of Thomas Ralph by hostile tribes – His sufferings – Risk of life and property among the natives – Siege and capture of a native fortification – Attempt on an encampment of Europeans and native tribes – Treachery of the warriors – Conduct of the belligerents during a siege – Cruelty of conquerors, their cowardice and cannibalism. . .....287

CHAPTER XI

On colonization – Diminution of the New Zealanders – Various causes assigned – A government necessarily required – Intercourse of the British – Population – Districts wholly desolated – Tribes newly discovered – Commigration of tribes- -Fickleness of the people – Further remarks on colonization – Proposals in furtherance of that object. . . . . . 322

CHAPTER I

NEW ZEALAND IN 1837.

CHAPTER I.

Cannibalism of the New Zealanders – Anecdotes attesting the facts – Anathemas of the natives – Systematic treachery towards each other – Murder of a flax collector – Native ideas respecting treachery – Ingenuity in workmanship – Art of carving – Manufactures – Canoes – Fishing nets-Method of erecting houses designed for various purposes.

The existence of cannibalism among the New Zealanders, few persons will be disposed to doubt at the present day.

Not a single traveller, however tenacious towards a contrary opinion he might previously have been inclined, ever left the country, without the certain assurance, whether from witnessing

CANNIBALISM, ITS HORRORS

the horrid repast, or seeing only vestiges, of the prevalence of these savage enormities so repugnant to the feelings of civilised man.

Few persons can conceive by theory alone, the disposition of man in a state of barbarism. The habit of devouring their enemies has been brought from the country inhabited by their remote ancestors; doubtless, revenge and the insane precepts of the most gross superstition, was the first cause of this unnatural violation of the mortal remains of a deceased enemy.

If any additional horrors can add to our disgust, it is, that matrimonial alliances are being continually formed among themselves, which cause them to devour with insatiate gluttony, the bodies of their relations and friends.

The passions of these frenzied people are never checked in infancy. It is supposed this method of devouring an enemy, annihilates him from the enjoyment of a future existence, and secures to the cannibal, the strength, vigour, and good fortune of the victim, who has fallen to his abominable appetite. The ignorance and villainy of the priests, who derive their principal tithes from their choice of this horrid food, impel all classes to take a delight in partaking of the mangled remains of their opponents.

INDULGED IN FROM INFANCY.

Cannibalism could scarcely have arisen from an insufficiency of food, as any tasteless root, leaf or grass, would have been made use of, rather than so dreadful an alternative. Of this much we may be certain, namely that the present practice of cannibalism, has little or no reference to the original causes of its institution; that continual indulgence from earliest infancy, has wholly obliterated any disgust that might have anciently accompanied the horrid rites; but it is a vice indulged in from a depraved taste, that scarcely the powerful feeling of shame can subdue. The children, from the earliest recollections are habituated to these lusts; the hearts of the victims are often preserved for their especial food, as beings, who from their rank are alone entitled to such prized parts.

Yet many natives have sickened at the thoughts of such provender, and refused it with unconcealed horror.

The maledictions of these people consists wholly of expressions having reverence to cannibalism, "E'kai na to wangana," or I'll eat your head, "kai koe to matua," feed on your parents, "puketuki tukia," and many others are made use of, evincing the most indelicate and cannibal feelings. These feasts are not confined to the battle field,

CANNIBALISM IN MAUNGA-MUKA,

as slaves are liable to be put to death on the slightest fault committed by themselves, or by a stranger to them, distant many miles, or at the caprice of their masters, in which case they are cut down, immediately dressed, cooked and devoured.

During my residence on the banks of the Maunga-muka, a branch of the Hokianga, in June 1831, Te Tawoa a chief within that district, felt inclined towards a shooting excursion in a neighbouring forest. Previously to his leaving the village he desired a female slave to prepare some kai pakeha or large sweet potatoes against his return. The slave did as she was requested; but the chief was so long absent, that the food got cold, and she eat them.

On Tawoa's return, he demanded the meal he had ordered, but was told how it had been appropriated; he then called the hapless woman to him, and without speaking a word, dispatched her with a blow on the forehead with a tomahawk. This guilty miscreant had been cohabiting with the slaughtered woman for some time previously; he sent for his friends, the body in the meanwhile was dressed, cooked, and on their arrival eaten, and to use the expression of Putranui, a chief who partook of the feast, on his pointing out the oven to me in which the body

ALSO AT WAKARAPA.

had been cooked, not a bone was left unmasticated. The feast took place about five miles distant from my residence.

Another act of a similar wanton nature occurred at Waio, a river some few miles distant from the mouth of the Hokianga. A European named Anscow, proceeded down that river in a boat, accompanied by a crew of natives; he carried with him the usual trade, such as blankets, powder, and tomahawks, to purchase flax or hogs. He arrived about sunset at a village called Wakarapa, and as the tide had ceased to flow, put up there for the night. He was received hospitably, and was promised a quantity of hogs early the ensuing morning; provisions were cooked for him and his attendants.

Anscow had not been long seated, when an interesting slave girl arrived, apparently about fifteen years of age, and remarkably handsome. Her approach was no sooner discovered, than an old decrepid chief woman hobbled forth from her hut, and made use of the most vehement language to the girl, who it appeared had absented herself without leave for two days. After the old crone had vented forth her objurgations, which she was unable to continue through exhaustion, she turned to a ferocious looking fellow who

FATE OF A FEMALE SLAVE,

was standing by her, and desired him to kill the girl immediately. The ruffian did not wait for a repetition of the request, but ran to the boat, and seizing one of the tomahawks, which had been brought for barter, he struck the miserable girl a blow on the forehead with the implement that cleft her head in twain.

This was the work of an instant, before Anscow could interfere and purchase her, which he could have done for a musket.

The body was then decollated, opened, and the entrails washed and placed in a basket, the limbs cut in pieces at the different joints, attended with circumstances at once horribly disgusting and obscene. The head was thrown to the children as a plaything, and these little miscreants rolled it to and fro, like a ball, thrusting small sticks up the nose, in the mouth, ears, &c. and latterly scooped out the eyes. The remains in several pieces were then put into baskets and taken to the river, to be cleansed from the filth it had received, by being mangled on the ground. The ovens were heated, some vegetables scraped, and the whole was cooked in a half hour. A large party partook of the body.

Anscow was in a state of intense agony during those proceedings, and felt fearful for his own

AND OF A EUROPEAN.

life. Some of the body was presented to him, in a small basket, and he was derided for his refusal.

At earliest dawn he had his boat launched into the water, the crew did not partake of the body. When the boat was afloat, all the trade was put in together, with the tomahawk that had been used for the horrid deed. The villagers placed in the boat the remnants left uneaten of the cooked body, done up in some small baskets, as a present to be conveyed to their friends. In vain Anscow protested against the abhorred freight being placed in the boat; it was put in forcibly against his will, attended by three of the villagers. On arriving below the river, these men landed and carried the food to their friends. The tomahawk was thrown by Anscow in presence of them, into the deepest part of the river; he then returned to the settlement he had departed from. This account he gave to me the moment he landed.

Anscow's ultimate fate was equally as unfortunate as that of the poor slave, whose murder he had witnessed. He afterwards left the Hokianga, and crossed overland to the Bay of Islands, where he joined as seaman, the whale ship "Toward Castle," of London; Messrs Birnie

JUDICIAL PUNISHMENTS.

of London owners. The vessel on quitting the Bay, steered for the Pacific islands, and lying off the Figi group, a boat was sent on shore for refreshments. Anscow was one of the crew, between whom and the natives a quarrel ensued, and Anscow killed one of the chiefs, but in retreating, he was taken prisoner, killed, and his body devoured by the natives, who are the most determined sarcophagi in existence.

The crimes of adultery, bewitching, robbery under certain circumstances, an anathema bestowed by the weak against a stronger party, or entering a prohibited place, incur the punishment of death, and the bodies are generally devoured.

To record the various judicial and injudicial murders committed by these people against each other, would alone fill up a volume. The most creditable navigators and travellers from Cook to our own times, have reiterated various facts of the cannibalism of the New Zealanders.

Cook observes in his first voyage, "Almost in every cove we landed, we found the flesh and bones of men, near the places where the fires had been made." Again, "Some of the officers went on shore, where they saw the head and bowels of a youth, who had been lately killed,

CANNIBAL PROPENSITIES.

lying on a beach, and the heart stuck on a forked stick. The head was purchased by them, taken on board, a piece of the flesh was broiled and eaten by one of the natives before all the officers and most of the men." Cook was on shore at the time; on his return on board, he was struck with indignation against these cannibals, but curiosity surmounting his disgust, and, as he says, "being desirous of becoming an eye witness of a fact that many doubted, I ordered a piece of flesh to be broiled and brought to the quarter deck, where one of these cannibals eat it with surprising avidity. This had such an effect on some of our people as to make them sick, Oedidee (a Taheitian) who came on board with me was so affected with the sight, as to become perfectly motionless, and seemed as if metamorphosed into the statue of horror; when roused from this state by some of us, he burst into tears, continued to weep and scold by turns, told them they were vile men, and that he neither was, nor would be their friend any longer. He used the same language to one of the gentlemen who cut off the flesh, and refused to accept or touch the knife with which it was done."

Murders are often committed in a systematic, treacherous manner.

INSTANCES OF TREACHERY.

A feud, some years hack, had existed between the immediate ancestors of two tribes in Hokianga. Peace had apparently been arranged between both parties. One of them who lived on the banks of the Waiema river, went to pay a friendly visit to his late enemy. On meeting, the usual pressing of noses took place, and while performing the act of salutation, the visitor was struck on the head by the tomahawk of his treacherous antagonist, and killed on the spot; the head of the victim was preserved and the body eaten.

Mr. Fairburn, in a letter to the Church Missionary Society, also instances a treacherous murder, termed by the natives kohuru. He says: "Not more than a month ago, a man and his wife, natives of Waikato, came over to our Settlement to see a relative, and had been here for some days, when a young chief of another party, who lived thirty miles lower down the river, named Koinaki, and between whom and the Waikato tribe a deadly feud exists, came to our valley under the mask of friendship to see Kapa and his wife, (such was their name, ) professing to wish all animosity at an end. He succeeded, after remaining three days in the valley, eating and sleeping with them, in persuading them to accompany him down the river

RECKLESS DEPRAVITY.

to his village. They had not proceeded more than ten miles, before the vulture landed with his prey, killed them both with his hatchet, and afterwards conveyed the dead in his canoe to his settlement, where they were afterwards eaten. All this was done in revenge of a relative of his, who was cut off by another party, in connection with the tribe to which the murdered man and woman belonged about seven years since."

This is by no means a solitary instance of treachery to one another, as such circumstances are almost continually occurring in one shape or other. They never forget an injury, or let slip an opportunity when they have it in their power to revenge it. The reckless depravity attending these diabolical practices fully proves, that the incitement to a good meal is often sufficient to mark their tracts in the blood of their countrymen and relatives. A chief residing at the Maihia, the north foot of the Table Cape, heard that one of his wives had proved faithless to him. The man was unable to find out the adulterer, and, not unlikely, the whole story was a fabrication; – however, accompanied by his brother, he called early one morning on a minor chief, towards whom the brothers had always professed to be on friendly terms, and

EXCUSES FOR CANNIBALISM.

beckoned him out of his house; on the man doing so, and pressing noses with the eldest, the younger brother cut the poor fellow down, murdered him on the spot, and the body was afterwards cut up, and devoured. No blame could be attached to the slaughtered man, but the chief had not the power to kill his wife for fear of the revenge of her relatives; but he was allowed to satisfy his honour, and not least, his appetite on the innocent.

In May 1837, a chief left Hokianga for the Bay of Islands, leaving his wife at the former place, to pay some attention to their plantation, and then to follow him. After a lapse of three weeks, the husband felt anxious that his wife should join him, at which time a native of the Hokianga arrived in the bay, and expressed his surprise to the husband that his farm should be so much neglected. On enquiry, he found that his wife had left her village ten days previously to the setting out of the informant, to join her husband in the bay; an enquiry was immediately instituted, when the body of the unfortunate woman was found in a state of putridity with the throat cut, hidden among some bushes on the road-side. The murderer was soon discovered, who publicly boasted he had dishonoured the hapless woman before depriving her

TREACHERY OF A CHIEF.

of life. It was then demanded by the friends of the deceased, that the guilty chief should be given up; but the opposite party to whom the villain belonged, would not do so; a desultory war, it was stated, was likely to ensue.

I shall have to refer to the subject of cannibalism on treating of the wars of the natives; but the following occurrence will shew the little security held out to European life and property, when isolated among hostile tribes in the interior.

Mr. S. junior, a partner in a respectable firm in Sydney, engaged in the flax trade, established a settlement at Touranga in the Bay of Plenty, and a branch station on the island in the Rotorua Lake, situated in the elevated plains in the interior. He had commissioned a European to purchase the dressed article from the natives. Mr. S., on arriving at one period at the station, was requested by the principal chief of the district to remove the trade to another village outside the lake, as the natives intended to change their residence near some plantations, at a distance from the island, and to carry flax to that isolated place, he added, would be too burthensome. Mr. S. complied, and on the following day superintended the removal.

A large canoe was brought expressly to re-

TREACHERY OF THE NATIVES.

move the goods. About one half the trading materials was disposed of in the canoe, when a scuffle ensued between the natives and the Englishman in the canoe. Mr. S., together with another respectable trader, hastened to his assistance, and perceived the natives around began to be troublesome. A powerful native attempted to drag Mr. S. into the canoe, and would have succeeded, if that gentleman had not hastily drawn a dirk to defend himself; this was wrested away, and the native would have overpowered him had not Mr. S. fortunately drawn forth a pistol and presented it; the ruffian then hastened away.

The poor man who was first assaulted in the canoe, was soon overpowered and thrown into the lake, when several muscular fellows threw themselves in after him, kept his head under water, and ripped up his stomach with knives. Mr. S. and his companion seeing his blood crimson the water, ran to the house, determined to sell their lives as dearly as possible. A crowd assembled of upwards of three hundred natives, who were infuriated, and attempted to draw them from the house, and tear them to pieces. The two traders presented their pieces, which kept for a few seconds these furies at bay, when about a dozen young chiefs rallied and at-

FURY OF THE SAVAGES.

tempted to interfere and save them. This the savage multitude were not disposed to grant, when these protectors environed the hut, and determined to guard the Englishmen with their lives. The din and clamour was terrific, sufficient to appal the stoutest hearts. This lasted for full twenty minutes, during which the Europeans were kept in dreadful suspense; the hut they had taken shelter in was small, made of dried rushes, and the barbarians without, threw firebrands to burn them within the place, but they were as quickly plucked away by their young friends. These gentlemen heard the tumult among the savages arising from the distribution of the body of their murdered comrade, and heard the promises of the head chief, that all should participate in human flesh as soon as the white men were taken from the house.

After some time, the fury of the savages subsided in some degree, and the young protectors entered the hut, and brought the Englishmen forth. Mr. S. enquired why they had acted so unaccountably; he was told in answer, that he had no business to remove the trade from the island. On Mr. S. demanding from the principal chief if he had not done so at his request, no

THE STATION ABANDONED.

answer was given. He next requested to know what they required him to do; he was answered, "remove your goods when you please, we repent of what we have done, our anger is past," on which several chiefs ran into the house and carried every thing that was left into the canoe. The goods that had been previously placed there had all been stolen; these were now mostly returned, and the natives deported themselves as if nothing had happened, except the principal chief, who approached the gentlemen, and cried the lament over them. This hypocritical wretch had been the sole cause of the disturbance. Mr. S. now demanded the body of his unfortunate countryman, but a very small portion of the viscera and an arm, was all he could recover. These remains were placed on the wretched hut, which was set fire to, and were speedily consumed; the trade was then taken to the mainland, and carried by the natives to the new plantation, but as early as an opportunity offered, the station was abandoned by the Europeans.

The early missionaries and traders were often unwilling witnesses to similar outrages. My companion, Kahika had been in several war expeditions against the natives of Waipoa, yet

FEROCITY OF THE NATIVES.

during the visits we made there, in our journey to Kaipara, he was received with honours and tears of the tangi. The subject was often discussed respecting the different friends that had been eaten on either side of their respective tribes, and though some animated observations took place, his safety was not endangered.

At the Haihunga, where many hundred families assembled I requested Kahika, from a feeling of curiosity, to point out to me a single family whose relatives had all died natural deaths; but he stated he could not even allude to a party who had not a melancholy tale of cannibalism to relate, whereby their friends had suffered, or who had not also partaken of the blood of their enemies; and added, but for the frequent fires that take place in villages and consequent destruction of so many of the native antiquities, scarce a family existed in the country that would not possess at least the bone of an enemy, worked up either as a whistle or a bracelet, ear-ornament or fish-hook.

At another time, I asked Te Kawika, a shrewd chief of the Maunga-muka; the cause of the natives first becoming cannibals; he replied, it was good that the stronger preyed on the weaker, as the puti or puss eat the kiore or rat. Dogs eat men, and the native man performs the

NATIVE'S ARGUMENTS.

same savory turn. "If I do not eat my enemy when I catch him," added he, "he will not show the same self-denial when he catches me; in short, what in nature is there that has life, that will not eat readily of its kind. There," (continued this subtle dignitary, pointing to a hawk,) "the kaka will eat other birds, and the larger species will also devour him." A hog passing by closed the argument: "Would you eat of that pig?" enquired this logician, describing with his hand the sleekness of the animal's form, as it slowly ambulated, grubbing for provender, to the right and left. I nodded significantly in the affirmative. "Well," continued the apologist, "bait him, and see if he will refuse a piece of yourself."

The ingenuity of the people is principally confined to the elaborate art of carving, in which their canoes and houses come in for the greatest share of attention.

The canoes are various, from the little tewai of eight feet long, to the pitau of eighty feet. These vessels, to the northward, are made of yellow and red pine, those to the southward, of totara, rimu, and other larger woods. The forming of a large canoe complete, generally takes many months ere its completion. The tree, formerly, was generally felled by fire being applied to its roots, which burnt so slowly for a length

NATIVE CANOES.

of time, as to harden the wood, rendering the labours of the workmen more painful. It has been also generally hollowed by fire, which widens the trunk; it is afterwards dressed with the adze-axe and chisel, or apologies in some shape for those invaluable implements.

I purchased one in Uwoua that was seventy-six feet long, six feet wide, and four feet deep, the bottom being as sharp as a wedge. The sides were well projected, and about two inches thick, and near the bottom full three inches; on each side was raised a plank, to the making of which a whole tree had been used; these were sixty-six feet in length, fifteen inches wide, and two inches thick, fitting to the hull by a piece of lath, painted black, and placed outside the vessel, which when lashed, bound the gunwale board to the hull exceedingly firm, by holes being bored above and below the band, fastened by flax well scraped. The small spaces of the holes were closed up with the down of bulrushes, which answered the purpose of caulking. A considerable number of thwarts were laid across the gunwales, and strengthened the compactness of the vessel by being securely lashed. The pitou, or figure-head at the bows, projected six feet beyond the hull, and was about three feet in

NATIVE CANOES.

height; the ruppa, or stern ornament, was about twelve feet high, two inches thick, and

Ruppa, or stern post.
Pitou, or figure-head.
Stern post for a tewai.
Stern post for a tewai.
Figure-head.

eighteen inches in breadth. The designs will be best understood by the above sketches.

A SCULPTOR'S DEFINITIONS.

These carvings denote the phrenological bias possessed by the artist or the employer. If combativeness should preponderate, a gorgon head is displayed in front, with a tongue thrust forward some feet in length, and a pair of eyes inlaid with mother of pearl shell, of the diameter of a sugar basin, to pourtray the implacability of the owner towards his enemies. If amativeness should reign paramount in the bosom of its proprietor, numerous devices that will not admit of a description, leave no doubt as to the predominant sensations that actuate his taste. Self-esteem is represented by two hands garnished with six fingers between them, rubbing an enormous stomach. Mirthfulness, by a mouth extended from ear to ear, and "laughter, holding both her sides." Gravitation stands confessed to the connoisseur by an enormous posterior casualty. Acquisitiveness, by a wart, in size to a young pumpkin on the nasal promontory.

Long garlands of feathers generally hang pendant from the stem and stern, and gannet's feathers line the band below the gunwale on either side. Every part is painted with the bright kokowai, and they present in the waters an imposing appearance.

CANOES.

Many canoes are only painted with hierogliphics, similar in appearance to tattooing on the native body. The paddles are generally constructed of the kaikatoa tree; they are very light in weight and neatly made. The blade is broad about the centre, ending in a sharp point. Some amateurs stain their paddles with red earth, but few are carved except at the hilt. A carved paddle is made use of as a spear or truncheon on gala days, but is not adapted for the water. These native oars are generally four or five feet long, but those made use of for steering are some inches longer, and help to propel the canoes with speed.

Canoes are very rarely lashed together; during my seven years acquaintance with the country, I never saw a single instance of the kind, and no platforms are made to surmount them, as is practised by the natives of the islands of Oceanica.

The canoes made in the vicinity of Hawkes Bay will carry easily one hundred men, and are paddled double banked.

Canoes are esteemed as peculiar riches among a tribe, and are regarded in the same light as so many ships sailing out of a port. Canoes in sailing are only capable of going before the

APPARATUS FOR CANOES.

wind; the natives do not understand any other method, and the little hold these vessels have in the water would render all further knowledge useless.

The sail is made of raupo flags or kiakia grass, etc., of a triangular shape; it is fastened to two small rickers or poles, which serve for both mast and yards, and is fixed upright between the gunwales. The sheets are made of plaited flax, fastened to the end of each pole, but they are very clumsy. These vessels are safe in a brisk breeze, but from keeping in the trough of the sea are continually wet in windy weather. Two men generally sit aft to steer the canoe. The ancient moki has been mentioned. The tiaru, tata or baler, is of essential importance to the apparatus of a canoe. These are often carved fancifully, and obscenities are frequently indulged in the forming of these humble articles.

The duty of paddling is often relieved by boat songs, accompanied by chorusses, indiscriminately chaunted by master and slave. The words have been handed down from their fathers; and the exact time kept by the paddles appears to the stranger as if one soul animated the group. Every person makes use of his vocal powers to

ANCIENT IMPLEMENTS.

the best advantage, producing a chorus far from displeasing.

The canoes rail very much, often their gunwales under water. Their velocity may be reckoned at six miles an hour. Some few of these canoes have circumnavigated the island and crossed over Cook's Straight. Eating is barely allowed in their native boat, and on certain occasions it is accounted impiety. On the demise of an esteemed warrior chief, his favourite canoe and its various utensils, such as paddles, baler, sails, etc., are prohibited from being made use of. It is equally sacred from use as firewood, but it is placed in a wai tapu, or cemetery, as a monument of the deceased.

The implements of carpentery, formerly in use among the natives, have become obsolete in favour of the adze, axe, tomahawk, chisel, plane, iron and gimlet.

The ancient materials for these invaluable tools were principally black and dark grey granite, called onewoa by the natives, or the poenamu a green talc, which are both hard and tough; also small pieces of red jaspar, which were chipped off small blocks, similar in size to green flints. These latter tools were principally employed in finishing their best performances,

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Interior of a Kainga or Village in New Zealand

ANCIENT BATTLE-AXES.

and were thrown away when blunted, from their inability to sharpen their points when become obtuse.

Chisels formed of the bones of an enemy were also used in the exercise of tatooing; and even at the present day no substitute for the native materiaux has been found among the various instruments of metal introduced by Europeans. Stone axes were regarded beyond all price by their owners, and they were seldom disposed of, being regarded as heirlooms from a remote ancestry, that the numerous casualties of fire occurring in the villages, could not consume. With native chisels they were enabled to cut glass and apply them to such work as was required; pieces of obsidian or volcanic glass was also employed for this purpose. Much patience was required to put an edge on their meri's, which was often managed by pounding the talc to powder, or some comminutable substance, and briskly rubbing the surfaces against each other. The name for the axe was toki, which is another name for rock or stone, and the adze was known as toki pu tangata, or a warrior's stone battle axe. These latter were in the shape of our adze without the curve.

The fishing nets of the people are often of an enormous extent, and are generally made, by

FISHING NETS.

each family in a village working a certain portion of raw flax, which is cut with the finger nail into strips, after the boon or useless gummy matter at the lateral part is cut off and thrown away. These narrow strips are tied up in bundles and left to dry on poles. The nets of this plant are remarkably tough, and resist decay for a long time.

Many of these seines, which are the common property of a village, are one thousand feet in extreme length. The manufacturers and the locality around are under a strict tapu while making them.

A native chief, from the westward, at one period, brought to me, in his canoe, twenty large hogs and a quantity of potatoes in barter. On approaching the beech, which was tapued, the resident natives rushed into the water, took away the whole of the provisions, also the canoe and clothing of the people as payment for their having unwittingly broken the prohibition, and gave the chief, his wives, and slaves, a beating for this inadvertency; the man came to me in tears and requested my interference; but the natives had law on their side, and I could do nothing. However, I called on the principal of these conscientious fellows and enquired of him, before his people, if it was likely I could

SCRUPULOUS CONSCIENCES.

continue to reside with them, when they would greedily devour all the provisions I had, but would never supply me enough for a meal in barter, and even robbed those friends who brought me any. The chief replied, "Go! be off! who sent for you to come to New Zealand to interfere in our customs. The laws must be satisfied!" This was repeated by another of these Shylocks, on which I put a smiling face, though I wished them certainly elsewhere. Some jokes passed among us, and I got the pigs and potatoes back, on the promise that the head of the first I killed should be given up as a sacrifice to the sensitive conscience of the chief, who had given himself so much trouble to rob me. The canoe was also returned; the clothing was kept back; but they had nothing to congratulate themselves on in their detention, these being nearly a heap of rags.

Various other nets are in use among the natives; one of them, in the shape of a bag fixed to a pole, is made use of in fishing for the kohuda or crayfish, among the rocks, which they search for with their feet, and when successful, they place the net close to the fish, and with a jerk tumble him into it. The nets are very strong and the hehaho, or fishing lines, are infinitely

METHODS OF FISHING.

stronger, and fitted to bear a heavier strain, than any made from European materials.

The method of making up fishing lines is very tedious. The manufacturer twists it upon his thighs and rolls the flax with the palm of his hand, to which he continually applies his saliva.

Shrimps for bait are caught by common baskets on the edges of the shores.

The fish-hooks are made of bone, shell, and wood, and are very clumsy affairs; a fish, in Europe, would scarcely be taken in by such articles: many are formed of the human bones of their enemies.

Baskets of a large size, made of twigs and liands, large below and narrow above, are made use of for catching the finny tribes, out of which there is no escape. Fishing is carried on in large parties. In the river Thames, during the season for catching sharks, the banks are occupied by numerous fishers. Fishing employs much of the time of these people, and large hoards are preserved for winter provision by desiccation. Shell fish is also similarly made use of as a primary article of food.

The houses of the common people are but very sorry affairs. They are seldom above four

HOUSES OF THE PEOPLE.

or five feet in height, with a much less respectable appearance than an English dog-kennel.

The framing is formed of two forked sticks thrust into the ground, on which a ridge-pole is placed in an angle of forty-five degrees in the ground; small sticks are made to intersect the hut fastened with flax, and the whole is covered with raupo flags, over which the toitoi grass is plentifully sprinkled, which ensures the place being water-proof. They have much the appearance, at a distance, of low hay sticks.

Doors there are none, but a hole is formed to apologise, in some measure, for the omission, through which these sinners drag their length along, like to the trailing of a snake. The hearth is placed in the centre of a small hollow surrounded by stones. Few Europeans can breathe in such a cabin for ten minutes, as the smoke from the green wood, for which there is no outlet, would quickly dispatch them.

Whole villages of the common houses above described, are erected within the space of an hour. When a war or fishing party is on its route to a distant place, the parties make for a convenient shore every night, the brave warriors being fearful of their shadows after nightfall. The moment the canoes touch the ground

PRIMITIVE ERECTIONS.

the men instantly leap out and begin stumping up the bushes and brakes, while others are employed searching for sticks, which are soon procured, thrust into the ground and complete the framing of the huts. The women secure the provisions, take care of the canoes, and gather decayed branches for cooking and preparing the oven, and rollers for hauling on shore the canoes; if bad weather is predicted, which is easily ascertained. The ammunition, &c, is placed so as to be laid hold of in a moment if requisite. These huts, notwithstanding their hasty erection, are wind and water tight.

Very often in travelling, a shed only is erected to windward, especially in a forest, and bushes often afford shelter to the people, who cover themselves with their blankets or ensconce themselves within a grass mat that is impervious to rain, and which give the people the appearance of haycocks. These simple sheds are made use of by the principal warriors, and the celebrated E'Ongi, whose renown spread even to England and France, and before whom the principal warriors felt abashed – whose name was used like that of our Richard's after his feats at the battle of Askalon, to still unruly urchins and court them to repose, was accustomed to sleep in such kennels, at which any respectable dog, with a pro-

PUBLIC BUILDINGS.

per sense of his condition, would turn on his tail with contempt. A single blanket, (not the cleanest,) covered this singular man, and the green fern constituted his bed; whereas his rank in the country was sufficient to procure him any European luxuries.

In standard villages some very superior houses are erected. These are built twelve feet from the ground to the ridge-pole; the side and roof of reeds, neatly put together; the roof thatched with grass; handsomely-carved boards called the maihi, and a wooden image or tauparre warre are placed near the part of the verandah which is always prefixed to these houses. The doorways and sills of the windows are ornamented with similar boards, carved and painted with kokowai. The subject of the carvings are generally of the most obscene nature and caricatured. These houses are erected for chiefs, and are often forty feet long and twenty wide. The reeds within the verandah are handsomely variegated with painting, and are the pride of the builders.

These houses occupy some months in their erection; the chiefs applying themselves with as much assiduity as the most common slaves.

In these houses strangers are received, and the children, at whose tender age nature is

VARIOUS BUILDINGS DESCRIBED.

stronger than the inclinations of the parents would exactly wish, are turned out of these high places, similar to many European families who keep their drawing-rooms tapued from the little urchins who are so uncleanly in their habits; a sliding door also carved with insignias, representing the sexes serve to keep everything comfortable; the ground is always the most pleasing sitting place to a native with a wall to lean his back against. The powaka or village store has been described, in which the tribes keep their best apparel, ammunition, &c; the elaborate carvings on these places are monuments of the taste, patience and ability of these neglected people. The house appropriated to the kumera or sweet native potatoe is built expressly of the raupo with exceeding neatness. These have sometimes a verandah all round the building, and are enclosed with a neat fence; the doors are large, neatly carved and painted. These entrances are often formed in the Egyptian style – narrow above and widening as it descends; a small figure also surmounts the door-way.

The flax houses have been mentioned; – great care is taken that the roof be water tight, some of these latter houses are forty feet in height. Houses are also erected for war canoes; in the gable part above, families often reside. The

KUMERA HOUSES.

ground floor of these houses have rollers to preserve the canoe from rotting beneath. Sheds

House set apart for the Kumera, or Sweet Potatoe.

are erected for pigs and their bantlings, who when old enough to grub about, and make use of their lateral extremities choose for themselves the best houses they can find.

The watta is a platform built upon trees, or raised on stout branches. These are solely used for the purpose of preserving the provisions from the damp ground, the incursions of the rats, and the insidious affections of the dogs, who possess sentiments of unalloyed admiration towards the dried fish and other morceaux that continually regale their olfactories A sound beat-

SERVICEABLE HOUSES.

ing often explains to them, as they wistfully eye the viands, that they comprise meat for their masters. Houses or posts are also erected for the preservation of food or the honour of young ladies.

I once was witness to an affaire du coeur of this kind. A village Lothario sighed after a damsel of the same place. During the absence of her father, the gentleman called at the cottage of the Dulcinea who was protected by her mother only. The young man, undeterred by the presence of the old lady, began to be too distinct as to the nature of his intentions, on which the lady ran to one of the post houses, mounted the ladder, and drew it up after her. The swain was kept at bay until her mother got assistance, and he was turned out of the village by a rival, who found the lady less impregnable.

Houses are accounted as sacred; no food may be eaten in them; they are kept in neat order, save that the fleas and kutus reign paramount. Sheds are made use of by the ladies in bad weather, during the moment of gestation, but in any pleasing season the open air is preferred.

CHAPTER II

CHAPTER II.

European ammunition – Its introduction and subsequent effects – Implements of war formerly in use – Causes promoting native warfare – Battle of Kororarika – On Chieftainship – The system of Utu or satisfaction – Campaign of 1837 in the Bay of Islands – Crusade in Hokianga – Fortifications of the natives – Aremic stices – Preserving of human heads – Methods in use to deify deceased chiefs – Their lying in state – Ceremonies – Sacrifices of human victims – Immolation of wives – Industry of the people – Calumny and feeling of disaffection towards each other.

Few actions have been accounted more reprehensible than that of introducing muskets, and ammunition among the New Zealanders; but unbiassed strangers resident in the country feel assured that at the present day, when almost every free native possesses at least

ACCIDENTS

one of these weapons, the people have less to fear from each other than formerly, as the man of weaker physical strength, is now on a level with his more powerful opponent.

That many accidents happen from carelessness in the handling of powder, will not be denied. Several poor sufferers may be seen, who have been disfigured by the subtile composition, through incautiousness in smoking a pipe too near a powder keg, or placing burning embers too near it.

Two young men residing near my residence at Maunga muka, were terribly disfigured, and died shortly after from carelessness in dropping the hot ashes from a pipe, amid some of this combustible composition. My ancient friend Wainea, priest of Araitehuru, "to this conclusion came at last," killing himself quite unintentionally by a similar mishap.

In the Bay of Islands' war in 1837, one of the combatants of Waitangi district, carried a tokina or stocking containing gunpowder against his breast, he discharged his musket so close to the bag as to cause it to explode instantly, and fell a mutilated corpse.

The lords, commons, and bonded, take peculiar delight in discharging muskets, the noise of

AND OFFENCES.

which is sweet music to their souls, and are in consequence continually hurting themselves, often putting in more powder than the pieces are capable of bearing, that a greater sound may be produced.

Even a fear of danger will scarce deter them. I had at one time a fowling piece by me, that had not been cleaned or discharged for six weeks previously. A silly servant, in my absence, had put an additional charge within it; Kawika an elderly chief saw me take up the piece intending to extract the charges, and have it cleaned, but he entreated hard that I would let him discharge it. In vain I told him how long since it had been loaded; he was obdurate, neither would he allow me to extract a single charge; as he had possession of it, it was in vain to contest the point; he fired, the gun kicked as it is technically termed, and knocked him down. He arose bleeding, "'twas from the nose," and demanded payment for his hurt, and the bad conduct of my piece. I gave him the price, viz. a head of tobacco.

The danger to be apprehended in the introduction of these warlike weapons to a savage nation, is, when they are first partially distributed to certain tribes, which will render the ancient

CRUELTIES OF THE WARRIORS.

arms of their opponents useless, except in a close fight.

The introduction of four wooden cannon in the battle of Cressy, against the hosts of a spirited enemy, doubtless turned the fate of that day in favour of their possessors. Such was the cause of the destructive, annihilating war expeditions conducted by the warriors E'Ongi, Korokoro, Pamare, Tarria, Porra, Tarra, Ururoa, Kamura, Titore, and a host of renowned chiefs alias insatiate cannibals, who vied with each other in committing the most wanton barbarities, and unprovoked cruelties, as can never again occur. Those chiefs regarded themselves as invincible, by the possession of such superior weapons to those of their antagonists. They sallied forth, and in the course of their excursions, circumnavigated the north island, even passing across to Kai Kohura, on the island of Victoria. They took the patronymic of napui or the riflemen. The unfortunate tribes who were without these instruments of destruction, stood on the defensive, and perceiving their utter extirpation was intended, and likely to follow, invited Europeans to settle among them, and promised in return for ammunition, to dress as much flax as their visitors possibly required.

CAUSES FOR WARFARE.

Traders were soon found to join them at their settlements, and the result has been to place themselves in a respectable position, by making alliances with their neighbours which are tolerably kept when alarmed by an invasion from distant tribes, who may be seeking for satisfaction for an ancient feud occasioned by some tipuna or grand-father, cooked, masticated and digested in times long past. But "in piping times of peace" family jars are continually taking place; points of honour are obstinately adhered to; now and then a slight fracas does take place, a few slaves are taken, killed and eaten, and then an armistice ensues, which gives employment to some tough venerable pacificators to arrange a treaty of peace not to be broken until the next convenient opportunity, that may occur to either party. These old gentlemen are so selected that the enemy are sure not to molest them, as the tenacity of their composition would defy the abilities of a Ude. Thus much as to the baneful effects of fire arms being felt in New Zealand, the remedy having been found in the very article itself.

In the olden times of aboriginal warfare, the hani or spear was employed; but however useful m the commencement of a contest, it was speedily laid aside, and the respective combatants closed in

REVERENTIAL DISTANCE IN WAR.

with each other. The Meri no poenamu, and toki pu tangata were alone made use of, the belligerents seizing each other by the hair, and cutting off or splitting open the head of the vanquished. Quarter was unknown; there is no word for it in the language; the declining party had to"sauve qui peut" or peut-etre, stay and be cooked.

The effects of the musket is less to be feared at the present day, as a polite distance is kept by either party. In vain the war dance is performed to invite each other to deeds of arms; it has not the power to move them a step nearer the enemy; and similar to the courage pourtrayed by the dramatist, it oozes through their fingers.

Wars are generally carried on in the forest bush, or vicinity of cliffs and projecting places, where the respective troops are sure of a comfortably sheltered situation.

I was witness to the war that took place in 1837, among the Napuis; the largest portion of whom placed themselves under the chief Titore, at Kororarika; a minor number had congregated under the banners of Pomare, nephew of the relentless chief, killed and eaten at Waikato, some years back. All these people were intermarried, and fathers were arrayed fighting against

CAUSES FOR WARFARE.

their children, and relatives against each other. At one time perhaps upwards of three thousand men were engaged in the contest. At least twenty thousand rounds of ball cartridges were discharged by the belligerents, their muskets levelled against each other, (at least the motions were made) and in the returns of the killed and wounded of either party, a cypher "0" was the sum total. The fury of the combatants was roused to the greatest pitch; war songs and dances resounded for miles afar, but the distance kept by either party was so respectful, that it would have served as a lesson to a prime minister to deport himself before her Majesty. The ostensible cause of the quarrel arose from a native female cohabiting with an European on board a whale ship, from Port Jackson, who, after the vessel left her anchorage, was supposed to have been put on shore at an island in Paroa Bay, and that a chief equally related to either party, had casually passed that way in his canoe, and had, together with his friends, killed and eaten the girl. The accused party denied the charge, and asserted the girl had gone to Cloudy Bay in the ship, and would return again. No person cared a sou about the wench on either side, but it was a point of honour or jealousy of the chiefs for precedence. The war continued about three

PRECAUTIONARY TROOPS.

months, carried on in a desultory manner. An armament of thirty war canoes, filled with noisy warriors, paddled in fine weather, (as the natives have no umbrellas like the United States precautionary militia) up to the pa of Pomarre, which was situated on a commanding height, expending their ammunition, dancing the haka of war in their progress back and forwards. One day they returned with the loss of three killed, leaving behind them two heads and a leg belonging to Nana, who had always been a turbulent noisy chief. In June, the Hokianga natives arrived across the island, and were sorely puzzled which party to join, as they were equally related to both parties. I feel assured the largest bribe of hogs and potatoes would have gained over these intrepid and disinterested warriors; but as nothing of the kind could be obtained from either of the antagonists, a peace was patched up, the heads were restored, and Nana would have been presented with his leg, but unfortunately the boisterous savage had undergone decollation also.

In this glorious campaign some hundreds of thousands of leaden balls were discharged by these doughty men of war. Had the native fight of close quarters taken place, many hundreds must have been killed.

NATIVE CONTESTS.

This is the latest instance that can be adduced of New Zealand warfare in the most civilized district of the country, when they would naturally, from pride, seek to appear valiant in the eyes of the many hundred Europeans who were present; there being at one period thirty ships at anchor within view of both parties.

To call these people brave would be sadly prostituting the word; their obstreperous noise and gesticulations, have nevertheless scared some white people. A New Zealander will never engage in fair combat, or advance to an attack, unless previously certain of becoming a victor. Some of those reckless exploits, which we term fool-hardy, may be committed by the young men, but very rarely. The most pleasing warfare to a native is in predatory excursions, when the stronger can easily prostrate the weaker.

Many wars have been prevented, each party being supposed to be about equal in their physical strength; – peace has been the result, and much as the effects of the original introduction of fire arms is to be deprecated, yet the result of the experiment at the present day has been of essential service in preserving amity among the tribes.

This is illustrated by the Rev. H. Williams,

DECREASE OF WAR.

the respected chairman of the Church Missionary Society, who, writing on the people of Touranga in October 1831, observes; "Each boy has two or three guns, and men ten. They are an interesting people. I have not known of their going against any other tribes since their possessing the means of attack, but to act on the defensive."

Peace, I should say, is less difficult to be obtained by a retreating foe, under the present system of using fire arms, than heretofore; as the malignant feeling that stimulated the warrior of old, by contending in prowess with his enemy, is past. Fire arms necessitate each party to keep at such laudable distances, that the vindictive implacability of brute force is levelled by the scientific use of the musket, and the former attempts at ferocious superiority is changed to a trial of skill that will naturally cause a decrease of cannibal animosity and war.

The battles of these people have been hitherto a kind of guerilla warfare; – to cut off a party unarmed and butcher them when unable to defend themselves is the ne plus ultra of the native military tactics.

Kohudu, or a treacherous murder, is apparently held in universal detestation; yet these sensitive people, who can start at the word, do

ANCIENT WAR WEAPONS.

not fail to make use of the means, which is congenial to the native character.

The British government, in trading with the native chiefs for spars or flax, has invariably supplied the people with ammunition, such as fowling pieces, muskets, and powder, and it may be supposed the store ship, " Buffalo," now loading for the government, in New Zealand, has a similar investment. Seven barrelled pieces were introduced by this ship in her former voyage; but they were held in little esteem.

E Tiki or breast ornament.
Ancient war instruments.
Meri Poenamu.

OFFENSIVE WEAPONS.

The ancient instruments of war are not wholly done away with. The meri is still made use of in fighting at close quarters; and the slaughter, in the ancient wars must have been very great, for, if the first blow took effect, a repetition was quite unnecessary. This deadly instrument, similar to the modern tomahawk, is fastened to the wrist of the warrior by a strap of dog's skin, that it may lie free in the hand, and not be easily wrenched away from the wearer. They are worn within a belt round the waist of the warrior, and are regarded by these people as a military ornament, similar to the sword of the European.

A hani, or spear, with the tongue at the top, (so termed from the shape,) handsomely carved is also a favourite instrument in the hands of the natives, who are seldom without these batons of office on days of ceremonious observances. The carvings on these weapons are pleasing and fanciful. A tuft of the red feathers of the parrot tribe are appended round the weapon. It is of little use in battle, where it is thrown aside for the meri.

These spears are also used to direct the motions of the people paddling in the canoes; and I have observed some connaisseurs in a chorus of the natives, measure time with the hani. Another

LAW OF RETALIATION.

lance is decorated with feathers, and used as a staff of distinction. The ancient spears are fast disappearing, and the musket has taken their place, either in peace or war. A conch, or shell, is often used, to the lateral end of which, is ingenuously fitted a mouth piece of carved wood; through this orifice, the trumpeters render every thing around hideous by an unmusical din.

From the earliest traditions, these people have been bred in continual fear of each other. Every family has some tale of dreadful suffering to relate, occasioned by the acts of their neighbours. They are continually seeking opportunities for revenge; each tribe being observant of the politics of the surrounding villages.

Children, who care nothing for their parents when living, after their death, watch for years, when they may pounce, in an unguarded moment, on the enemy, who may have injured that parent. This jus sanguinis is never lost sight of.

The opportunity is often seized when the absent warriors of the enemy leave the villages open to their incursions; then they indiscriminately massacre the suckling infant and the bedridden grand-parent – women or children being no exception. They cook and devour the mur-

CANNIBAL REPASTS.

dered remains on the spot, and carry home to their fellow friends, as much of the food as they are enabled to carry. These acts of horror and obscene brutality admit not of description.

It has often occurred that the conquerors have been pursued and taken before their return to the village they have set out from; in this case, a dear retaliation follows, with vengeance, stimulated by a rancour unknown to the breasts of most Europeans. In the cannibal banquet that follows, some care is taken they do not mistake the bodies of their friends, and gastronomise them in lieu of the enemy; yet a leg, arm, and often the entire decapitated body is eaten by mistake; but in this case, it was remarked to me, by one of these cannibals, "it might be some consolation to be devoured by a tried friend, rather than afford that gratification to an implacable enemy."

Giving quarter, I have said, is not admitted among the rules and regulations of their military service, which induces a circumspection, that enables them to avoid being taken by surprise.

Moetara, a chief on the west coast, conducted a fight, a distance of 150 miles from his village. On arriving at the place of destination, the people, aware of his approach, fled, except a boy of

NATIVE TACTICS.

ten years of age, who was captured, while employed fishing in his canoe. He was roasted and devoured. After setting fire to every thing within their reach, and destroying the early plantations without another morceau for the trouble they had taken to travel such a distance, the valiant host returned.

No people entertain a quicker sense of injuries. When they imagine there is no danger of punishment, they then will seize the opportunity of committing any act of insolence, robbery, or murder.

In presence of a superior force, they become courteous and affable; but the treachery of their disposition will immediately lay hold of any chance that may be afforded them of being able to overpower by superior numbers.

The father of the present Pomare was killed by the natives of Waiema, in Hokianga. The son, in 1833, left the Bay of Islands with a large force to procure the ossified remains; but previously ascertained, the warriors of the place were absent. The payment for the death of the man had been so ample that Pomare behaved himself decently on the occasion, not even appriating a baby for his own repast. The causes for war are various.

The principal are for adultery, witchcraft,

ANSWER TO A SUMMONS.

cursing another person or tribe, thieving, an act greatly abhorred and held in general detestation, but universally practised whenever the opportunity offers.

Wars have been undertaken in defence of Europeans and their property.

E'Ongi's excuse for depriving the wandering people of their country, was for their capture of the "Mercury," in 1825.

A schooner, the "Fortitude,"of London, was trading in Hokianga, in 1833, the owners residing in the Bay of Islands. She was attacked by a party of natives from Wirinaki, who committed much damage on board, cutting the running rigging to the belaying pins. They threw the mate over-board, and soundly beat the master and supercargo; also stole much of the trade, and then retreated. A friendly party, in another direction of the river, sent an envoy to the tribe, to know the cause of their bad conduct; some shots were discharged in answer, and a principal chief was killed. War, of course, ensued.

The robbers immediately took up their quarters in the settlement of an industrious European, killed all his goats, pigs, poultry, &c.; erected a pa of the plank they found in great quantity at the station, and defied the friendly

FIGHT IN THE BAY OF ISLANDS.

tribe. The quarrel did not cease until about two dozen persons were killed on either side, and some few were devoured. The settlement was tapued, as several chiefs had fallen there.

A barbarous fight, occasioned by the disgraceful conduct of the master of a whale-ship of London, lying in the Bay of Islands, occurred in 1830.

It is much to be regretted the government of port Jackson has been unable to award punishment for a number of crimes committed by Europeans against the natives of New Zealand.

In the case referred to, the members of the Church Missionary Society deserve the credit of having put a stop to the excited feelings of the natives, by interfering to stay the carnage that had taken place; parents and children of either sex having fought against each other. The decks of the several whale-ships, then at anchor in the bay, presented the most melancholy spectacle, being covered with the mangled bodies of the natives, who were taken on board to be relieved by the surgeons. Many of the women and children fled also to the ships for protection. The vessels were put into a posture of defence, as the natives of the village began to give way,

CONSEQUENCES OF A FIGHT.

and it was supposed the victors would follow. The latter, however, fled in turn.

The Reverend Henry Williams, who went to the scene, states that the sight was dreadful, as nearly one hundred people were killed and wounded. He adds, "the vanquished were permitted to come and carry away their dead and wounded chiefs, but the bodies of their dead slaves were left behind. As one of the abandoned bodies was that of a chief, but one of little note, a chief of the village ran out, and with a hatchet cut the body open, and took out a small piece of the liver; this they told me was for the New Zealand God."

"After we had urged all the arguments we could, to bring about a reconciliation, we walked over the ground where the battle had been fought and where the remains of some of the bodies of the slain were lying unconsumed on the fires. The air was extremely offensive, and the sight most disgusting."

"The origin of this present war proceeds from the most infamous conduct of the master of a whaler. The chiefs contended, that as the war did not originate with them, but with an European, the Europeans were answerable for all the consequences, as a nation: they wished to know what satisfaction we would give them for the loss

CONSULTATION OF THE NATIVES.

of their friends who had been killed – it was their right to demand satisfaction, and it was just that the Europeans should give it: it was not their own quarrel."

"Early this morning, Tohitapu, a chief, called at my window, and said the army was moving from the Island of Moturoa, and he wished me to get up. I arose immediately, and was informed that thirty-six canoes had been counted, passing between the main and the Island. I saw a long string of war-canoes proceeding, in a line, across the Bay. We launched our boats, and went to meet them; and were rejoiced to find that they were directing their course to the point agreed on the preceding evening."

"When we came up with them, we found that they had left their women and children upon the island; and that they were all fighting men, well armed, and ready for action at a moment's notice. I counted more than forty men in one war-canoe. They stopped when we came up with them, and we held a consultation relative to our future operations.

"We were anxious that the two main bodies should not come within gun-shot of each other, for fear of consequences. It was agreed that three chiefs should accompany us, as commissioners, to Rewarewa's camp; and that their

CHARACTER OF THE NATIVES.

party should take their station on the east side of the harbour, upon a high hill, opposite to Rewarewa's camp – in sight of it, but at such a distance that they could do no injury."

"As soon as these points were settled, the assembly broke up; and the chiefs repaired to their respective tribes, which formed separate parties under their own chiefs, each chief taking the command of his own men. They were naked, having only their belt and cartridge-box. They also loaded their muskets, each tribe firing, by itself, several rounds, and dancing their war dance."

The disposition of the people are mistrustful and suspicious; even in trading, they are fearful of letting an article of barter escape from their hands for examination, and if the subject for sale be a mat, one end of it is often held by its owner, ready to snatch it away on the slightest fear of foul play arising. This conduct, I have noticed, persisted in from habit, even when the owner was surrounded by his numerous friends and had might on his side.

They admire the courage often shown by their European friends, who are regarded as a iwi toa, or courageous tribe.

I have often been patted on the shoulder by some of the elderly unbreached nobility, for

POWERS OF A CHIEF.

showing a smiling face, when they have attempted to frighten me with the gesticulations made use of to scare an enemy: but to white people who have resided any length of time among these bravoes, it will only excite risibility.

Club law, or the law of might constituting right, is the enactment made use of in this community. Subordination is but little regarded, and as a payment is always demanded in some shape or other, the weaker must suffer for the transgressions of his stronger neighbour.

The power of the principal chief is absolute over his tribe. His authority is respected as being derived from a remote genealogy, which commands much deference from all classes of inhabitants.

The original order of these native patricians, has been erected by certain men, whose superiority in prudence, courage, or sagacity, over their fellow contemporaries has been tacitly acknowledged.

The chief is often appealed to in private quarrels.

Every master has the power of depriving his slaves of existence, even his wife and children; but for either of the latter, he is open to be punished by a similar infliction from the friends

POLITY OF THE PEOPLE.

of either of the deceased, as a child belongs equally to his distant relatives as to the putative father.

In the private assemblages of the people, they are clamorous and quarrelsome. Thus, in a canoe departing from a village, on any excursion for peace or war, the noise and clatter from either party, those that remain, or the friends on the eve of leaving, is deafening.

Public and private contentions are very frequent, and the chance of a good meal, among the southern natives, to this hour, induces them to fight whenever they have a decent excuse, and when that is not to be found, there is very little difficulty in forming one.

The war song and dance has been described: these performances raise the passions to such a degree, that the actors appear like a body of frantic bedlamites, which, to a stranger, gives them a demoniacal appearance that chills him with horror.

These actions, in addition to that excess of cruelty, eating of an enemy before life is extinct, and casting them alive in the ovens, would lead every thinking person to believe that they must be destitute of those softer feelings, that renders life not only endurable, but often delightful; but the contrary is the case, for the lamentations

JUS SANGUINIS.

they make on departing from, or meeting their friends and relations, I have had occasion frequently to mention.

I have often been in assemblies comprising many hundreds of all classes, and I doubt if a single person of either sex or age, could be found, whose face and body was not excoriated with scars inflicted voluntarily, on the occasion of the meeting, as testimonies of their indelible love and affectionate friendship; though much of this is hypocrisy.

Payment or satisfaction, called utu by the natives is demanded for every thing; if a man should hurt his foot, in attempting to knock another down, the fellow demands utu, as a a right for the injury he has given himself.

A chief named Werowero residing at the Maihia, quarrelled with a neighbouring chief; the latter made use of the native anathema, signifying that he would cut off his antagonist's head, and sell it to the Europeans.

For this opprobrious curse in the ideas of a native, Werowero determined to have full utu. Some time past on, when apparently the two chiefs became steadfast friends; but an opportunity occurring, the treacherous Werowero caught his quondam enemy – slew him – and off with his head, which he privately conveyed

REVENGE OF A CHIEF.

to the house of Mr. Ralph, then in the employ of Messrs. Montefiore of Sydney, as flax collector, who resided in the district.

The decollated head he hung suspended within the kitchen chimney, over the try pot which served to cook the provisions of Mr. Ralph. In this elevated position it hung several days, the European of course not being aware of it, or that the fatty matter oozed from the head, and mingled with his own provisions daily. On Mr. R. being informed of the fact, he taxed the chief with the infamy of his conduct, who stamped and raved in turn, adding that the deceased had devoted his head to a similar fate.

So tenacious are these people of demanding an "eye for an eye, and tooth for tooth" that it is incomprehensible to a native, why the government of England did not revenge the calamity of the "Boyd," and the enormities committed against other vessels.

Utu is demanded by the silly customs of the people for an excess of joy, or sorrow. If a man receives a wound by accident committed by himself or by any other person on himself, he is stripped, that is, robbed by his friends, for the supposed fault; if another falls in battle his dear friends instantly rush to his plantations,

LEX TERRAE.

and rob his wives and children of the provisions, leaving them destitute.

If a canoe overturns in the water near a village, the inhabitants instantly swim off and take away the canoe, paddles, and whatever booty can be saved from the elements, and the hapless owners may account themselves lucky, if they escape a drubbing. If a marriage takes place, the happy pair are stripped and well beaten, and many chiefs are not allowed to enjoy the honours of paternity without a like payment.

One of my servants one Saturday, threw outside the door of an outhouse, a hoe for the use of a native gardener, who was in my employ; a chief was passing accidentally at the time, and the implement struck his leg, but scarce hurt him. He raised a great outcry, and having the jus civile on his side, pronounced that I merited being robbed (for a circumstance I knew nothing of.)

The next day Sunday, the chief sent a slave to me to enquire if it would be equally convenient, if he stripped me with his party of natives on the following Monday, as he did not wish to break the Sabbath of the missionaries.

I paid a visit to this conscientious neophyte, and after some conversation, carried on in ban-

NATIVE LAWS AND HABITS.

ter and earnest, the hoe that caused the accident and a blanket was graciously accepted for utu.

At another time my pigs would be taken in the act of eating thistles in cemeteries, the animals had to suffer for their unconscious negligence, by yielding up their lives and bodies.

Many a poor cat have I thus lost, through these informers, pretending to have found puss in a tapued place, whereas the only fault of grimalkin consisted in having a handsome outside, which answered for dress mats, and was in good condition inside, which equally answered for the oven.

If a man loses his wife by death, he is also stripped; this may be more bearable, as each article, whenever they attract the mourners' gaze, serve only to remind him of his dire calamity, or should his feelings flow in a contrary channel, the future prospects of unalloyed comfort, will allow him to stand a little loss.

In seeking for satisfaction these people are careless on whom the sacrifice shall fall, or who be made the scape goat, if blood is required, the innocent or guilty are equally liable to be punished with death, ignorantia non excusat legem.

A party of the Napui in 1832 left the Bay of

LEX TALIONIS.

Islands in search of utu for the blood spilt of their relatives, who were connected with the fight on the Kororarika, above related.

On their arrival at the river Thames, they massacred great numbers, and devoured the bodies on the field of battle. From thence they passed over to Tuhua or Mayor island, in the bay of Plenty, twenty miles north of Touranga. With the people of this island the Napui had always been on good terms, and were at the period in ally with them. The invaders, however, were not particular, and they slew all the males that could be found, and reserved the women and infants for slaves.

However, during the darkness of night, some of the women found means to make their escape and passed over to Touranga.

The Napui then sailed on to Motiti or Flat Island, where they killed and devoured some more people, but while they were still revelling, the Touranga tribes arrived in great numbers, fell upon the Napui, slew them all, save one slave and in turn feasted on the dead bodies.

The news of the destruction of the Napui party, spread quickly, and revenge was to be taken out of the Natiawa or Touranga tribe. Battles followed battles, but neither party gained

SACRED EIGHTS.

a step, and within the last eighteen months, a peace has been patched up.

The people are so fond of this bush skirmishing, that to the south west of Eainomawe, when chiefs are killed, the surviving relatives have a tawa tapu or sacred fight, which is performed by discharging a number of rounds of ball cartridges in the air, within view of the enemies of the defunct, and after the portion given are discharged, the relatives are free from tapu.

During a contest no orderly tactics are made use of. After the muskets are discharged, without any particular aim, they are thrown aside and picked up by the women and slaves. The chiefs are seldom taken alive, being surrounded by a staff of relations and friends. The battle field has the appearance of an indiscriminate scrambling; the priests are also much sheltered, and the slaves who have married in the tribe that owns them, sometimes join in the melee, and very often, when gifted with superior valour and prudence, rise above their condition, and often become chiefs over their former masters. Many prisoners in battle are preserved for ransom, such as canoes and slaves. Exchanges also take place.

The least foreseen causes of wars, has broken

NEW SECTARIANS.

out within the last three years, nothing less than a schismatic difference between the natives in their religious opinions, between those who have placed themselves under the banners of the Wesleyan Missionaries, and some new idolators, who term themselves disciples of Papahurihia. The sabbath is fixed by these modern luminaries on the seventh day or Saturday. This novel credenda consists in a God of fire or Wero being president, and he has sent forth a prophet to work miracles, teach the people that the missionaries are cheats, and other similar silly tales.

This fiction, it is said, was invented by the master of a whale ship, which if true, he must have been contemptibly wicked, to attempt to delude these people from the knowledge of a true God. That the prophet is a New Zealander there can be no mistake, as his affections are said to be equally affected towards discussing food, as polemics.

A war broke forth in Hokianga on this subject in 1837. A native catechist of the Westleyan Mission went forth to preach among the natives, who were averse to hearing the doctrines of the Mission. The young preacher was desired not to advance, but to leave the settlement. This advice he disregarded, and in stepping forward,

ABORIGINAL CRUSADE.

he was shot through the body. The many natives who were inclined to the views of the Mission, took the matter up, and some fighting was the consequence, in which the idolaters suffered the most. The usefulness of the Mission was now proved, for what no commercial person could have done, the Westleyan brethren were enabled to do, and the natives who had embraced their views, agreed to a cessation of hostilities, on condition the opposite party, who had began the affray would be satisfied, and sin no more. The treaty was signed, sealed, and delivered by the powerful aids of pots of stirabout or kororidori composed of boiled flour and sugar, which delectable mess is highly relished by friend and foe, among these fitful lords of the country. Papahurihia is certainly on the decline, and the less notice there is taken of it, the earlier it will be forgotten.

The Fortifications of the natives are called E'Pa and are built in a very primitive manner.

The spots most calculated for these defenses, are by the side of rivers, creeks, and on islands, some few miles from the main, or on the tops of such hills, where the ascent is both difficult and dangerous to an invader. These scarped hill tops, may be seen in every district throughout the country. The pa is formed of two fen-

FORTIFICATIONS.

ces, each of similar make. These defenses are formed of large posts, sometimes thirty feet in length, thrust five feet in the ground, at a distance of fourteen feet apart, the spaces between them being filled up with lesser poles and stakes, with three longer rails placed horizontally at separate distances, and bound with a liand called torotoro, which is very tough and serviceable. On the posts are often carved several ridiculous figures for armament.

These palisades are proof against a superior native force, if the defenders possess any stamina within themselves, and can only be destroyed by hatchets, during which, the inhabitants can keep up a sweeping fire, the vicinity of which, is wholly repugnant to the tastes of the New Zealanders.

The pas are seldom taken by assault, they are generally subdued by treachery or cowardice on the part of the defensive. The entrances in time of war, are by stepping stones or blocks of wood, through a small opening, that can scarce admit a large made man; between the two fences, a fosse about four feet deep is cut, which shelters the besieged while discharging their firearms at the invaders.

Within these pas the houses are promiscuous-

FORTIFIED PLACES.

ly huddled together; large and small, pig sties, palaces, and platforms for preserving their provisions and not for defence.

During the armistices between the belligerents, either party enter freely their respective encampments, lament with hypocritical tears the cause of the war, feast together, and then commence fighting again with redoubled animosity. Some pas have been walled with turf and the strong argil that abounds in the country; these mural defenses are impervious to musket balls. In various parts of the coast, pas are observable on the summit of high hills, which would enable a very few persons to defend themselves against even a disciplined European force. Such as at the Apatai, a mountain on the east coast, in lat. 38 deg. and at Taranaki, a district on the south west, in lat. 39 deg. 40', in the latter a conical mount rises from a small plain, on the summit of a less elevated hill. The pa on the rising mount above is only accessible by a long spar, with notches cut in it, and can only be ascended (and that with difficulty) by one person at a time. The hill around has been scarped, so that by the spar or pole only can the ascent be made; the former occupants were cut off, by their northern neighbours treacherously,

PRESERVED HEADS.

an action of such common occurrence, as does not admit of nine days' wonder in New Zealand.

A few of those native munitions are so situated that it would be impossible to get cannon to bear upon them – famine alone could reduce them.

The trophies of a battle in New Zealand are the heads of the principal chiefs, which form the oriflamme of either party, and are preserved as the principal spoils of the war, similar to the tattered rags, that ornament the cathedrals of polished nations, independent of the original motives of the war, whether undertaken for the suppression or advancement of liberty.

The heads undergo a desiccating process. After the brain, eyes and tongue are extracted, the decollated part of the neck is closed like a purse, with an opening just sufficiently wide to admit the hand of the operator; it is then steamed similar to the provisions in a native oven, the fat that exudes, being wiped away; it is then hung up, exposed to the air and a wood fire, whose pyroligneous acid, tends to preserve it for many years.

The heads are of infinitely greater service to the cause of humanity in a preserved state, than when attached to the living body; as a victor

FEELINGS TOWARDS THE DEAD.

whenever he wishes to make peace with the conquered, carries the heads of the conquered with him, and as a ratification of peace leaves them in the possession of the friends of the deceased.

Vast numbers of these mortal remains have been exposed to the gaze of travellers.

Many families keep these restored heads in boxes, and often give them an airing in fine weather to preserve them from damp; they are held in much veneration, and their appearance calls forth praises and songs, expressing admiration of the courage or affections possessed by the deceased, which are to gladden them no more.

If the conqueror despises his enemy and will not consent to a cessation of hostilities, he either keeps or disposes of the heads, or should he happen to be a gourmand, he places them on a stick, thrust into the ground, and roasts them by the fire; to bury them would be accounted a sad hiatus in domestic economy, an action, I have already observed, repudiated by these people.

These heads are not always returned to the nearest relatives, but often to the injured party on whose account the war was undertaken. The bodies are cut up into mince meat, or very like to it, that the victorious horde may be gratified

PRIDE OF THE CHIEFS.

with a taste, the priests first making sure of their tithes; small pieces similar in size to les petits gateaux among us, are kept for absent friends, and on the receipt of these "baked meats," songs of rejoicing are chanted for the victory over the enemy. Should these "forget me nots," turn putrid, and not meet to be eat, a substitute is soon found, in some living slave, out of whom pickings are furnished to all the villagers.

The native chief is the proudest being that is to be found among us powerless worms. His person is accounted divine, by his tribe. His hair when cut is carefully gathered, and placed in a wai tapu. His head at certain times is accounted so sacred, that he is often unable to walk below in a ship's cabin, fearful of a less sanctified soul walking over this deified part.

A circumstance that occurred in the store of an European in the Bay of Islands, would be too trivial to mention did it not serve to prove the superstitious folly, and concealed villainy, of many of the chiefs and their followers.

The proprietor of the store was disposing of a few iron try-pots, in barter for hogs and potatoes, to some natives. In jest he held one of the pots over the head of a chief, named Ko-witi of the Koua Koua river; the distance of

CONCEALED VILLANY.

the pot from his precious head was perhaps two feet, certainly not nearer; the trader observing to me, as I was standing by, it would make a good helmet for the old man. The pot was put down, and no more thought about it.

Some time after the Englishman left the Bay of Islands for Sydney, and the business of the settlement devolved on his partner. On a Sunday, within a month after the occurrence took place, a fight or towa was made on the settlement, for satisfaction in placing an empty iron pot over the old chief's head, which was regarded as typical of boiling his head within the pot, or that his head would fit the pot, and not the pot his head. The ruffian crew who came to rob the settlement of whatever they could lay their hands on, were the veriest cowards I had ever seen. I placed myself against the door of one of the stores in which I had some tons of goods recently received from Sydney, and though each of these depredators had sufficient physical strength to demolish two persons of my insufficient calibre, yet having no desire to be deprived of my property, I kept the rogues at bay from this point, and they at length disappeared, after robbing some of the servants of their beds, clothing, etc. I felt so much annoyed at the time, as to wish the old man's head in any other place

DEIFICATION OF CHIEFS.

than the position it then stood in for working mischief.

The chiefs are regarded as gods by their tribes, and are supposed to reign in heaven on their quitting this existence. In periods previous to battle they are appealed to as being supposed to have the same feelings of affection for their tribe as when on earth. They regard their supplications answered, if any particular bird should trill at the time, which generally happens, as the kouwau or prayer is made in the vicinity of a bush, where these songsters take up their residence, and the wily priest imitating the bird, soon procures a response.

The chiefs suppose their left eye after death ascends to heaven and becomes a star. They are fearful of being killed in war, as it is supposed, in that case, their titular divinityship forsakes them, and that they become serviceable only to add to the effulgence of the star of their conqueror.

The apotheosis of a chief takes place immediately on his decease; the feeling of pride which elates him on his supposed divine exaltation, and that of the exhumation of his bones in after years, when his prowess and deeds of valour will be sang by hundreds of his affectionate followers, cause him rather to welcome death than shun it.

RELIGION THE BEST CONSOLATION.

To the civilised man, death is less fearful from the hopes of a future state, but repugnant as it may be to those persons less confident in religious faith, how many feelings possessed by the generality of mankind cause them, similar to the uneducated savage to court its silent state, love triumphs over its fears; how many prefer its repose rather than exist in shame and reproach; glory aspires to it, even in the cannon's mouth; it is often the sole consolation for blighted affection – a coward is always anticipating it, but our gratitude and duty to a bounteous Creator, should enable us to support ourselves from its fears by religious hope.

A chief after his decease, is seated in state on a kind of trestle or in a canoe. Every thing in the vicinity is strictly tapued; the body is decorated with handsome mats, reaching under the chin, that have been sent expressly by neighbouring relations. The head is richly decorated with feathers, the hair turned up, crammed into a bunch, and tied with a par re or native ribband, the whole well soaked in train oil. A garland of native flowers encircle the head in the form of a coronet. Sometimes the face is covered, but it is generally left exposed. It retains for some days its natural colour, and shines with native rouge and oil. The posture is generally that of sitting.

BODIES LYING IN STATE.

If the deceased has been a principal chief, sometimes the sculls and bones of his ancestors are honourably placed in a canoe or platform raised from the ground, and placed near to the defunct, and the ossified remains of his enemies taken in battle, at the feet.

I witnessed among many others the tupapaku or corpse of a principal warrior to the southward. Around the body lay his weapons of defence, which were to be buried with him. Along side lay the body of an interesting girl, wife to the chief, who had hung herself the day previous, from grief, which I was informed she was unable to control. Her body was similarly decorated to that of the late chief, except the red pigment was omitted. Some slaves, male and female, had been put to death to attend their superiors at the reinga; they were immediately afterwards buried. The several surviving wives of the deceased, together with a multitude of relations, friends, and children, were grouped around, bleeding at every pore from large gashes cut in their flesh, evidently feeling their loss most keenly, bursting forth in moans and sobs of bitter grief. These simple people regard the Europeans as very hard-hearted, as they imagine the only method of testifying love and affection is by drenching themselves in their blood. The

CHIEFTAINSHIP.

head wives are silly enough to immolate themselves; hut it is to be hoped these sacrifices will be abandoned as early as civilisation introduces "weeds," or any other respectable method of advertising for a husband, signifying "this tenement to let, including the goodwill," etc.

The honours of chieftainship is not confined to the natives only, as some Englishmen, Sandwich Islanders, and Marquesans, possess this dignity, including the adjuncts of polygamy and slaves. I saw a Bengallee, who also partook of these honours and uxorious pluralities. This latter personage in complexion resembled ebony in a healthy state, with the proportions and shape of a similarly tinged stick of sealing wax. He was named by the natives Mungu Mungu, or jet black.

The name of chief is Rangatira, the heir apparent is distinguished as Kai Rangatira. They are equally employed as the slaves, and the carving, or wakiro, on house fronts, canoes, carved boxes, etc., are principally executed by them. The boxes they form for containing feathers and other ornaments, are distinguished by spirited tasty designs, that surprize the civilised visitor to perceive the people so far advanced in this art as to produce performances that would

ANSWER TO "WHAT'S IN A NAME?"

do credit to a European artist, and yet so far backward in polity and individual comfort.

Chiefs who have become renowned, are made to feel the penalty inseparable to greatness, by receiving many presents, but are obliged to disburse a larger proportion in return.

On my return from an excursion I made southward, a young chief, named Titore, was sent in the same vessel from Poverty Bay to the Bay of Islands, accompanied by a large posse of chief attendants. The child was about six years of age, and had been named after the celebrated commander in the latter place. The visit was made expressly to procure for the friends of the child as many presents as he might be able to obtain. The youngster on arrival was treated with much kindness, and it proved a successful speculation, as he received a quantity of presents from his more adult namesake, in the shape of muskets, powder, clothes, trinkets, etc., and when the attendant chiefs, who were not forgotten, had exhausted the hospitality of their friends, they returned to their settlement with their booty.

The chiefs work at the plantations with as much diligence as the slaves; the principal warrior is not exempted from the labours of agri-

HABITS OF THE PEOPLE.

culture. The fishing net is also worked by them in common with the other classes, and the village meals are partaken of by all persons without distinction in the provisions to persons.

A chief lady confers rank on her husband by marriage; but she is supposed to descend from her dignity in bestowing her affections on a commoner, and she looses cast fully as much as if her propensities fixed on her servant, or an antipodal lady admiring her butler.

The chiefs invariably calumniate each other, sickening with envy and rancour on any praise being awarded to their equals. To place the slightest reliance on the observations they make against each other would be idle; for, with the exception of the speaker and his company, they stigmatize each of their acquaintance, as the most wicked and profligate rascals under heaven, without a particle of common decency, faith, courage, or honour, to apologize for their general bad conduct. These malevolent expressions have often been made in my hearing, when, perhaps the persons inveighed against has been seen making his way near to where we stood. On the latter coming up to us the usual pressing noses would take place, and kindly glances pass between them, as if their earthly happiness was centred in the affections and good will of each

HABITS OF SLANDER.

other. After the usual salutation took place, the resident chief would say in an appealing tone to me: "Ha! we have just been talking of you," accompanied with a sly wink to regulate my answer. A responsive nod in the affirmative was generally expected from me. I was aware that the late comer would throw equally as much blame on his neighbour when absent, and exculpate himself.

These vicious slanders have often been the primary cause of the present disturbed state of the social feelings of the people, and of much bloodshed.

The inclinations of the chiefs are very mean, when they have an opportunity of indulging in that gross weakness.

On various parts of the coast, they will incessantly devour an enormous quantity of food at the tables of the Europeans, who belong to their settlement, without supplying a single article in barter, and often take upon themselves the office of selling the provisions of the strangers inland to the resident white men, who, if simple enough to permit it at the commencement of their residence, will find it difficult to alter the system when once persisted in. In these cases the demand is doubled for the articles to be bartered, that the chief may have an opportunity to make

NATIVE CUNNING.

presents to the native strangers, at the expence of the European. Many of the latter are continually annoyed at the repeated encroachments of these men; but it solely requires determination, in the first instance, not to be imposed upon, and they raise their own importance. The Europeans, who allow a native to have his own way, is called a pakeha kuwarre, or a white simpleton.

CHAPTER III

CHAPTER III.

Native presents – Intercourse and visits of ceremony – Surnames – Confidence and secrecy – Notions of theft illustrated – Native generosity – Cunning and importunity – Sullenness – Obstinacy – Feelings of shame – Slaves and slavery – Taking of the "John Dunscombe" by a slave tribe – Population – Difference in the manners and habits of the northern and southern inhabitants – Raupara – Atrocities committed by European ship-masters among the natives, &c.

The natives are in the habit of making presents to each other, and other acts of courtesy. A chief man, in disposing of his lands, feels much pride in distributing the principal share of the payment to each minor claimant, and throws to each person a part. Baskets of dried fish, roes of the same, young sharks, whale scraps, pigeons preserved in fat, and many other things of a similar nature, form presents

GIFTS AND VISITS OF CEREMONY.

among the New Zealanders; handsome mats, kegs of gun-powder, for the possession of which the donor has been perhaps working hard for six months previous, and other articles equally invaluable, are given as presents among them. Few European residents would credit the expensive gifts that are interchanged among chieftains. A principal chief of the Bay of Islands gave his son-in-law, a respectable warrior residing three hundred miles from him, at parting, presents to the value of 200 pounds sterling, in gunpowder, muskets, blankets, &c.

To the southward the celebrated Raupara of Kapiti, or Entry Island, receives, from his tributary friends, a large quantity of provisions, and other presents. Forty tons of potatoes have been received in one present, by a chief of note, from a distant friendly tribe.

Visits of ceremony are made among the chiefs, with a gravity and decorum that would- distinguish the respective parties in any part of the globe, not excluding the Celestials of China.

The females are remarkably particular in scarcely exposing the throat, in visiting parties; there is an intuitive feminine delicacy in this respect that might be copied to advantage in Europe.

The gentlemen are not particular. I have seen

INFINITY OF SURNAMES.

some of them undressed for a party, the body being perfectly nude, with the sole exception of, perhaps, part of what had formerly been a pair of inexpressibles, tied by the legs, round the throat.

The chiefs and people delight in an infinity of names that would exhaust a Chinese alphabet with its eighty thousand hieroglyphics, in the composition of their cognomens.

The natives also take great delight in bestowing surnames on such persons as they may choose to honour; any person possessing an extra pedal longevity is termed waiwairoa, or long-legs, a name also applied to the musquitoe.

A highly respectable colonist, residing at Mercury Bay, is known only by the appellation of kiore, or rat, from not possessing a very bulky form, on his first arrival among the nomencla-tors.

Another acquaintance is only addressed as te Tuatara, or lizard, from having, during a voyage undertaken some years back, searched various parts for a cargo of timber of the country, to load his ship, which was likened to the action of a lizard seeking in holes and crannies.

An artist is known as Tuiui, or one who designs on paper, writes, &c. A blind person is a

SURNAMES.

Matapo, or one with a darkened visage. An unfortunate possessing a bad cold, is called a Pomarre.

Moka, a troublesome, irritable, little chief in the Bay of Islands, received in a skirmish, a bullet in his thigh, he was immediately named the Kai na mutta, or ball-eater; a surname the pugnacious chief is highly delighted with.

If the hairs on the traveller's head be "few and far between," he is dubbed Pakira. Should he possess a corporeal preponderance in front, he is known as Ko puku paukina, or the pumpkin stomach. Many other allusive epithets are applied to this John Bullism, some of which are not rigidly delicate. A war ensued, some years since, in consequence of a chief being termed puku paukina, by his tenuous enemies, as a distguishing trait of the obesity of his person. This respectable personage could not sit down quietly and vegetate with so abominable an appellative attached to him: he consequently declared war, imitating Harlotta's son, who felt equally indignant at being likened to a parturient lady, which his royal neighbour, in the absence of truth and delicacy, was pleased to confer on him.

A man of minor proportions is termed Piwakawaka, after the tiny songster of the woods, with a body the size of a filbert. A squint, a

HABITS OF THE PEOPLE.

limp, a nose too short, too long, broad or narrow, red or blue, cannot escape an appellative from these satirists. Shakspeare's question of "What's in a name?" which the great poet politely answers to himself to save his reader the trouble of thinking, is certainly inapplicable to this people, who are too irritable to do as they would be done unto. Many of their distinguishing names arise from new importations among them: – thus a musket is called a pu or poo, from the noise made in the discharge of a loaded piece. The bird, Tui, is so called from that word approaching to its native note.

An ass, (not a biped) is often known by an appellation, similar in sound to the pleasing strains which that much neglected philosophical animal is wont to indulge himself in. Taringa nui, or long ears, is another distinctive nomen for that unsophisticated brute.

The generical name for all quadrupeds is korarahe for the adults; the younger fry figure under the term, of kuri, probably the native pronunciation of cur. A person unfortunate in being affected with any illness or disease, is often distinguished by the name of the malady, be it never so unpleasant or loathsome.

A proprietor of the soil is often called after

DESTRUCTIVE APPELLATION.

the name of his settlement. An old man must bow to the name of kow matua, or venerable grand-father; but the females of advanced experience do not answer the name of Rurui, or old woman, which is nevertheless bestowed on them. A simple fellow, lacking wit, is called Moiho, a name also for the booby-bird.

Infants are very often named after chiefs, who have carved their way to immortality. They are also distinguished by surnames from the committing of early actions when muling, &c, in their nurses' arms, that are attached to them for life. I remember a venerable old sage, with a Methusaleh longevity of beard, who was named after certain sounds resulting from an unfortunate flatulent temperament in his earliest years. Another gentleman and a priest, also bearded like a pard, bore a name wholly indicative of the softer sex.

Whole tribes have distinctive appellations, which are changed on the most trivial occasion. Tribes, who live inland, are termed, by those dwelling on the coast, in the vicinity of shipping, bush people; the former, are regarded as a race possessing more of the march of intellect. The natives adopt names similar to European patronimics: thus Ko Kawai, or Mr. Salmon; Kanapa, or Green; Manu, or Bird, &c. A young

NOTIONS OF SECRECY.

chief, who lost himself in the bush for a day, when very young, has ever since been known as Manuwhidi, or the stranger; and the most simple causes attach a name for a person or tribe ever after.

The "Wonder; a woman keeps a secret," is equally as marvellous, in New Zealand, as in any other part of the globe. A female, to the northward, who was married, transgressed her condition. She was fully aware that if the knowledge of her crime reached the ears of her husband, it would be the fiat for her death; yet she could not be silent, but told her sister the why and because; and as usual, in the first quarrel for precedence, or a top knot, after the disclosure, the sister revealed ever thing, and the hapless girl was immediately murdered: the miserable sister hung herself in despair.

The men feel it equally indigestible after swallowing a secret, to keep it within themselves. It creates a burthensome feeling that is found not to be endurable.

Whenever I felt inclined to publish any of my intentions to the natives, I usually made mention, of the subject to some pompous chief, with strict injunctions of secrecy; this was promised with the profoundest gravity, and after parting with the conscientious herald, it was generally known

TALE TELLING.

to every body around within a few minutes. Thus it seldom happens a robbery is kept a secret even by the rascals who may commit the offence; an intended predatory excursion is sure to leak out from some person attached to the depredators; this has been supposed by unthinking persons to arise from honourable feeling. Honour among thieves may be true enough elsewhere, but the adage is rendered nugatory in New Zealand.

Tale-bearing among the people is pandemic; and yet their unfortunate bias merits commiseration, as no people yearn more to keep a secret.

A native farm servant in my employ had stolen a cartridge box from a neighbour in his own grade of life; had he kept the secret but a week, the article would have been lawfully his own according the decision of native lawyers, and the only satisfaction the bereaved man could have got, would have been to seize an opportunity and steal the box in his turn; but the secret weighed too heavy on the mind of the robber; it was too much it appeared for one man to bear, he therefore only mentioned it to a friend, under injunctions of secrecy, who in his turn repeated it to another friend also, who chanced to be the original owner of the stolen property. The latter collected his companions, attacked the house

HABITS, CUSTOMS, ETC.

of the thief, and left not a garment for him or his wife, with the accompaniment of a sound beating, which kept the rogue to his floor for some days.

I have observed that theft is punishable with death, if committed by a slave, but the same action performed by a chief is viewed in a far different light by the national laws. The immorality of the transaction principally consists in the skill and dexterity by which this appropriation of tuum to meum is accomplished by the titled practitioner. If a chief is offended, or receives any hurt by accident, he imagines he has ample cause to seek for satisfaction from some person, and he generally pounces on some weaker fellow, and steals a something, however innocent the proprietor may be. If the robbery be committed in open day before any body, he is not supposed to have dishonoured himself, but if he purloins the same article covertly, he is a tangata tihi or robber; but there is some commutation to this offence if he enacts his roguery with ability; he then is termed a tangata angareka, or a fellow of "infinite jest;" but if a slave emulates his master in these "jests," death is his portion, without the benefit of the native clergy.

Cook relates one of these robberies, that well pourtrays the native character; "he had been

A POLITE ROBBER.

purchasing a great quantity of fish from the natives;" he says, "while we were on this traffic, they shewed a great inclination to pick my pockets, and to take away the fish with one hand, which they had just given me with the other. This evil, one of the chiefs undertook to remove, and with fury in his eyes made a shew of keeping the people at a proper distance. I applauded his conduct, but at the same time kept so good a look out, as to detect him picking my pocket of a handkerchief, which I suffered him to put in his bosom before I seemed to know anything of the matter, and then told what I had lost; he seemed quite ignorant and innocent, until I took it from him; then he put it off with a laugh, acting his part with so much address, that it was hardly possible for me to be angry with him, so we remained good friends, and he accompanied me on board to dinner."

It often happens that unpleasant disputes occur between Europeans and the natives, from this cause, which pass off less pleasantly than the above. When I resided to the northward I suspected an old priest named Popatai, had stolen (appropriated I should say), a box of percussion caps, which had been lying on the table during a visit which he made me. These

A PRIESTLY ROBBER.

articles were invaluable at the time, for another box could not have been procured on the island. I frankly accused him of having forgotten to replace them; the old gentleman who was remarkably agile, hastily arose, apparently frenzied with passion, and opened his only garment, to shew me I had wrongfully accused him; he then danced and capered about, roaring to the top of his voice, treble and bass in the same breath demanding payment, for the foul accusation. I knew the man too well to care for his word or noise, and as he was rather restive, I took him by the shoulders and giving him a gentle push on a part where it was impossible any bones could be broken, turned him out of the house.

The indignant priest seized a paling and advanced towards me, one hand employed rubbing the place my knee had come in contact with, calling me every ill name he could remember in his catalogue. I also grasped a small stick, acting solely on the defensive; upon which the old fellow called his son Tarre who was close by, a stout active young native to assist him, but this duteous scion excused himself from interfering; thus unassisted the old man girded up his loins, by tightening a broad leather belt that was round his naked body, in doing which, the box that he had concealed within side

ROGUES IN ACTION.

fell on the ground, which I hastily picked up, and wished him good morning. The old man followed me, and endeavoured first to persuade me, it had found its place there accidentally. I then spoke loud in turn, and demanded a quantity of potatoes as payment, 1st. for taking up a stick to me, 2nd. breaking one of my palings, and 3rd. a small hog for the intended robbery; on all these counts the law was on my side. The sage promised every thing, provided I kept the transaction to myself. This I promised to do, but before ten minutes had elapsed, every body in the surrounding village knew of it – for the priest could not keep his own secret. The payment was sent to me, upon which I made a present in return beyond the real value of the utu.

Another time I missed a silver coin somewhat antique from the table, and accused the only native present, who vainly protested his innocence. I locked the door and told him to prepare for a sound drubbing; in the hurry of uttering his protestations that indeed he had not got it, the coin fell from his mouth, on which I made him give me a pig for satisfaction or utu.

At another time I missed a paper of fishhooks. Two ancient brothers were sitting on the floor of the apartment; my housekeeper who was also

LIBIDINI INDULGET.

present, cast several times, first a glance at me and then at one of the old gentlemen's legs. I gently put aside his blanket, and found the paper within the only stocking possessed by both parties. An excuse was instantly made, that it was a joke undertaken to see if I would so readily miss the articles, but without the remotest intention of taking it away with them. I argued they might have forgotten, in the hurry of departure to leave them behind, and for the probable casuality I demanded payment, which I was at last promised with an ill grace; but I never got anything, as the old men put in a protest against paying for jokes.

A chief called to see me at one time, who sported an apolegetic something for a hat, but on entering the store he was polite enough to take it off; I was induced to leave the place for a few minutes, and on my return, the European whom I had left in charge had quitted also. My native friend had put on his hat, and I thought I could perceive the head wag somewhat uneasy under it. I stept up to him on pretence of admiring its shape (it had lost seven eighths of its brim) and on lifting it, discovered a piece of linen, with a quantity of duck shot within, that belonged to me; on accusing him of the

SUBJECTS FOR BOW STREET.

theft he stoutly denied it, saying he had bought it from a store up the river, but I showed him my moko or signature on the linen, on which, as he could not prove this to be a joke, he promised payment, and though I never received one, yet it prevented his return.

A chief boy a servant of mine had at various periods stolen some trifles, of which I was at last informed by his brother, who had hitherto been the principal receiver; this was not reported to me from any compunctious feelings of sensitive morality, but solely because a native cannot keep a secret. I had no means of tasking the boy with his faults, as he ran away on finding his conduct known, but at dusk he returned and prayed the housekeeper to intercede for him, admitting he had formerly taken a little now and then, but that he had been particularly watchful no other person had done so. As I believed this to be the fact, I re-admitted him into my employ, at the same time for the sake of the native laws, I sent for his father and demanded a payment for the misdemeanour of his son to which he immediately acceded; but I have never been enabled to tender a receipt, not having seen any of the promised fare.

TRICKS IN TRADE.

Anecdotes innumerable can be stated on this subject, but the tricks or thieving in trade are not the least ingenious.

Among other subsequent purchases besides flax and ship stores, I was employed collecting a quantity of spars, for ships' masts, yards, &c, logs, for sawing into plank, and rickers or trunks of trees, of narrow diameter but great length. On my first arrival in the country, a brisk trade was kept up between the natives and myself, for the latter timber, and all that I purchased were placed within a railing that admitted the timber at flood tide, and was dry at the ebb. Various methods were put in practice to sell me the same rickers several times over. They were at first brought their entire length with the bark on the trees. At midnight, if the tide suited, and the heavy fogs in the river screened them from detection, the sellers would purloin and cut them shorter, and again present them for sale, having also erased the mark I had previously put on them; this would pass, when they were again perhaps taken out of the dock, the bark knocked off, and thus denuded; in company with some new rickers, they were again re-purchased. From the quantity of similar rickers in the dock, numbers of them sinking below the surface of the water,

A PRECEPT OF SOLOMON.

and the impossibility of properly securing a dock at that period, rendered detection or the safe keeping of these small rickers a matter of great difficulty.

I discovered these manoeuvres one night during a dank heavy fog, that rendered every thing around invisible, by the quarrelling of two of the marauders as to which spar should be taken. I discharged a fowling piece without ball in that direction, and the talking instantly ceased, a canoe was paddled away with eager velocity. I discharged two more pieces, similarly loaded, and the report was spread among the villagers, which put an end to this pilfering.

On my enquiring of a native chief, who had been discovered in an act of theft, if the native deities would not punish the people for such bad conduct, he replied: "O no! on earth they were accustomed to do the same, and parents delight in children following their example." When the natives found that Europeans purchased flax by weight, which they usually made up in baskets, a number of heavy stones were sometimes secreted to add to the weight.

A small bag of lime was at one time stolen from me, on the supposition that it was flour. The robbers soon discovered their mistake.

A NATIVE PACHA.

A respectable chief called to pay me a visit during the kumera harvest; he appeared all smiles and condescension, and prolonged his stay for some time, conversing on trade, native politics, the Atua nui, &c. I left him for a moment to give an order to a servant, when, shortly after my return, he rose to bid me adieu, and strutted off with the dignity of a pacha, to whom he bore the greater resemblance, as two tails, comprising the legs of a pair of pantaloons that claimed me as owner, hung down from within and below his blanket. I gently tapped him on the shoulder, and pointed to this inexpressible breach of good faith, and my unmentionable loss; but he turned round with great sang froid and an expressive wink, pointing to his slaves, that his consequence might not be lowered in their estimation, and gave me the green talc ornament round his neck as a pledge of payment; he had the propriety to send a large hog as an acknowledgment for his appropriation. Slaves, in thieving from each other, only take satisfaction in a mutual sparring match, which is performed by mauling and kicking each other, that is, if the parties mutually possess equal courage; but, to the southward, it is the interest of either of the aggrieved to be mutually silent, especially at scant periods, when provi-

– – – - V. – – – -

sions are scarce or ripening; for the chiefs at such periods are strictly severe in putting the laws in execution, and, fearful amid contrary evidence that the guilty should escape, orders are issued to have them both killed instanter, often before the merits of the case are heard; – the chiefs notions of morality at such times, often cause himself to become the executioner of his own mandates. The European jurist will call to mind the threadbare anecdote illustrative of the self-denial of the profession in lucrative matters, on the judgment given on the oyster, which was pronounced a remarkably fat one, and the court awarded a shell for each who contested for the fish.

Few private robberies are committed on the residents on shore, in comparison to those committed on board ships, where some masters allow all classes to run about the vessels under their command, either in the cabin, midships, or forecastle. The heavy expense thus incurred falls on the owners. I have seen on board some ships, which have lain in port a month and seven weeks at a time, three several companies of natives partake of the daily meals. Many shipmasters boast how much more reasonably they are enabled to barter with the natives for provisions, than with the resident Europeans, and

HABITS, PRACTICES, ETC.

will not believe that the temptations afforded the New Zealanders for putting their favourite propensities in practice, is a sufficient inducement for them to give much of their produce as a present or bribe for admittance. It must be added, that some shipmasters are fully alive to the vicious practices of the crews under their command, but from the arduous duties of a whaling master, they are obliged to connive at immoralities in which they do not partake. On board the ship, "City of Edinburgh," that cast her anchor in the river Hokianga, a native was seen running down the side of the vessel, with the ship's large tea-kettle full of boiling water, concealed (as he supposed,) under his blanket, and bobbing against his naked body; others employed themselves in stealing with their fingers the hot meat out of the boiling coppers, thus, putting themselves and keeping their visitors in hot water, stealing many other articles whose use they knew not, and which were quite valueless to them.

These robberies are generally committed by the common people and slaves, but for the especial benefit, and with the cognizance of the chiefs.

Notwithstanding the above traits of the pilfering disposition of the natives, there are moments when a host of political associations will

POLICY OF A CHIEF,

induce them to persist in a totally contrary conduct.

The following circumstance was told me by Kouwai, alias William Korokoro, eldest son of the warrior Korokoro, and grandson to the principal actor in the disastrous affair of Marion. The period it occurred, was about the year 1812.

A whale ship anchored in Paroa Bay, and the inhabitants, as usual, flocked on board. When sufficient refreshments, wood, and water had been procured on board, the anchor was weighed; at this moment the master discovered that a knife was missing from the dinner-table, and accused the chief of stealing it, which was untrue; the master insisted, and in a scuffle that ensued, Korokoro was stabbed with a sailor's knife in the shoulder. Had the vessel been filled with natives, doubtless they would have taken her as satisfaction for the insult. She immediately stood out to sea, not before the knife was found under the cabin table.

The vessel was soon out of sight. Stung to madness, the infuriated chief presented himself to his people on shore, loudly demanding to be revenged by an attack on the first vessel that should arrive. But Korokoro repented, and after his fury subsided, he changed his inten-

HIS GOOD CONDUCT.

tions, as it would be the means of ships in future avoiding the place.

Two years after the occurrence, a vessel arrived commanded by the same master, and cast anchor in the cove. He was immediately recognised by the chief, who did not allude to the circumstance until a large force of his countrymen arrived on board; he then threw off his mat, previously advertising his people that he intended to kia mataku, or frighten the white man; he and his companions now danced the abominable war dance, and then showed the scar occasioned by the wound the master had formerly given to him. After terrifying the man by stripping themselves naked, and making the usual horrid gesticulations and postures, the warrior went up to him, pressed his nose, and was ever after on the most friendly terms.

The wily chief was aware that any barbarity committed on his part would probably have been visited by the vengeance of the white people.

Though instances of theft can be multiplied ad infinitum, yet during my several travels and voyages, attended solely by these people, in various parts of their country, during which period they had actual possession of articles belonging to me, that are deemed as invaluable

PORT JACKSON IN NEW ZEALAND.

to them as gold is accounted by the civilised man, yet to my knowledge, I do not remember missing a single trifle, and really believe, had a party of the friends of those persons with whom I travelled attempted to rob me, my escort would have defended myself and property with their lives.

At one period, when travelling, I put up for the night in a village, the chief of which I had never seen before. My bedding and trunk were placed in his charge.

A native friend, whom I had been acquainted with for a length of time, resided in a small farm of his own at a short distance, which he had dignified with the borrowed title of Por Hakina, or Port Jackson. He requested me to see his plantations; I went with him accordingly, and commended the appearance of his family – children, farm and stock. I had not been long employed in viewing the lions of the farm, when we perceived some natives running towards us, with terror depicted in their countenances; they told me that the property I had left in the village was stolen, and not an article left. I hastily left the place, heartily wishing Port Jackson at Jericho, and on perceiving the chief, demanded in wrath the cause of such a breach of hospitality; he answered me with a long-continued laugh at my expense, and my servant

MATRIMONIAL OFFERS.

whispered in my ear, it was only a joke of the chief. I entered the hut, and found every thing placed as I had left them. The chief bade me sit down, and he would tell me why he had excited my needless alarm. He said it had come to his knowledge, that my worthy friend, Kapa, the proprietor of Port Jackson, had inveigled me to his village, less to show his plantations, than to provide a husband for his daughter; and he thought such a proposal would excite my anger, and that I should naturally wish to patronise the village where I had been so hospitably treated. He, therefore, presumed to observe, his own daughter should supply that place, and that his rank in society was so much superior to his neighbour, who he proceeded to add, was the most abominable excrescence that defaced the earth; that he felt assured a glance at their relative situations would be sufficient to decide my intentions. This casuist then proceeded to describe, in glowing terms, the various excellencies that his daughter possessed; and that to see her made the wife of a European chief, was the dearest wish of his heart, formed from her earliest infancy. I could not testify any surprise at the offer, as these nuptial agreements are regarded as innocent and honourable among the people. I did not act wholly free from wrong,

EUROPEAN APATHY.

in descending to a falsehood, by telling the old gentleman who was so anxious to bestow the honours of paternity towards me, that I was a tapued person, and consequently, on the score of nuptial affection, there was no vacancy at the time being; but the old man's importunities were not to be so easily subdued; he said I was a pakeha maori, or native white man, and that as I had adopted their country and language, I ought to conform to native customs; that I had no lady of my complexion in the country, and that if ever he went to Port Jackson, he would turn to the white man's customs, and set me an example by taking a white wife. This corollary of the native ethics did not prevail, and I soon after turned into my hut and fell asleep, while my self-constituted relative was logically proving I ought to keep awake and confirm the relationship.

The obstinacy and sullenness of the people is unbounded. It is an invariable rule in expeditions undertaken for mutual defence, that they act opposed to each other and their general interest.

Instead of keeping together in silent bodies to avoid exposure, each party straggles about, chattering like apes congregated to discuss their political affairs; thus, if one chief alone is bent on doing mischief, nobody can restrain him.

SULLENNESS, OBSTINACY, ETC.

In all their affairs, except the war council, where seldom more than one speaker detains the audience, every one is noisy, and all is confusion, each giving an opinion which is not listened to by his neighbours, who are similarly employed at the same moment giving theirs.

The females, whose pleasing volubility exceeds that of their sex (if possible,) elsewhere, are particularly clamorous; – the whole animated group running to and fro.

New Zealanders of either sex, if addressed somewhat sharply, either become infuriated with passion, or turn to a fit of sullenness, covering their heads within their garments, falling into a fit of tears, and moaning as if the direst misfortunes had fallen on kith and kin; if this surly behaviour is animadverted on, fresh lamentations, and frequently the muscle shell for goring the visage is made use of; – the best treatment is to let them have a hearty cry undisturbed.

A short time since, the eldest wife of the late chief, Titore, was planting within a fence, adjoining my garden at Kororarika Bay; a slave girl had been committing some trifling fault, when the old chieftess, sister to E'Ongi, called her to account. It was in vain, the girl threw herself on the ground and began to sob; every

MANNERS, HABITS.

thing that could arouse her to speak was said, but to no purpose. The expressions of the mistress were abominable, calling out to her people to bring her a hatchet to cut this slave's head off, and describing to the poor wretch how she should be devoured. She at length began to drag the girl by her long hair, on which I jumped across the fence and took the irritated woman away.

The people are exceedingly alive to shame, even on subjects that would not affect the equanimity of the European.

To be refused a present he has requested in presence of a rival in rank is seldom forgotten by the insulted man.

A party of friends connected with Manu, a chief of the Waimate, called on me with a quantity of hogs, and other provisions; I gave them such articles as they wanted, and they expressed their satisfaction. They were on the point of leaving the store when Manu entered and conversed with the party on their purchases, who stated they had tapued a piece of sheet lead of large dimensions, which they would redeem as early as they arrived from inland. Manu advised them to take it then but they excused themselves saying, this was their first transaction, and they were satisfied with their payment. I told Manu

SLAVES AND SLAVERY.

it should be kept apart for his friends. But he called for assistance, and had the lead thrown outside the store, when it was quickly placed in a canoe, and paddled from the place. Manu pretended great indignation at being refused to have his own way, but whispered to me he would pay for it. The party who did take the lead, paid some months after, and the transaction raised the importance of the chief, which was all he wanted.

The situation of a slave or taurekareka is less burthensome to the northward than it was within a very few years back.

Slaves are persons who have been taken in actual war, or in a predatory excursion, where a village has been surprised and captures made. The victor or master has full power over the life and body of his servant; When the slaves meet, they weep and sob for hours together, with anguished hearts, the loss of those they loved, the happy times they formerly enjoyed, that can never again return, and their own captivity among those who have feasted on the bodies of their dearest friends, and who thirst for their blood with cannibal voracity. They cut deep gashes in their bodies with muscle shells, as each thought of the past is brought in gloomy review before their afflicted minds.

SLAVERY IN ENGLAND.

Children born to chiefs by slave wives generally lose their attaint. When a principal chief is taken prisoner alive, he is generally ransomed, but ever after, even among his friends during a quarrel, he is twitted for having been a slave, however transient might have been the time of his captivity.

Between this class of the New Zealanders, there is some resemblance to the twelf hindi and twi hindi or inferior people, that existed among our Saxon ancestors in England and in the northern kingdoms of Europe; the value of whom amounted to two hundred shillings, and if they were murdered, the assassin was mulct about thirty shillings. Few people of the United Kingdom are aware how many hundreds of bond people there are in England at the present hour, whose bodies belong as surely to the service of the lord of the manor, as ever slavery or anything akin to it existed in the times of the Confessor.

Captive chiefs, who have lived unredeemed for years among their captors, generally intermarry with the principal females of the tribe, and in after years, when taking a journey to see the relatives from whose society they were originally severed, seldom or ever rejoin them. They are in fact regarded as belonging to another tribe. Should a slave be caught making his

OUTLAWRY.

escape he is regarded as outlawed, and any person may kill him.

An occurrence of this kind, came to my knowledge while I resided in the vicinity of the East Cape.

A slave had joined his master in paying a visit to a distant village, where the bondsman recognised his wife, who was also a slave in the village. The man proposed a plan of escape to his wife, who readily consented; in a little while they effected their departure from the place, and in making their way through a wood, they were espied by a native belonging to the village, which they had just left; the stranger deliberately levelled his piece, and shot the poor man dead; the woman he tore away from the dead body of her husband, and conveyed back to his village as a wife for himself. The murderer raised his consequence by the act, for the hapless wretch that was murdered being a slave, and the murderer a chief, nothing could be done, as it was agreeable to the law of the country.

The slaves that were brought from the southward by E'Ongi were very numerous.

Tarria a powerful chief and one of the warriors, landed at Tepuna in the Bay of Islands, with several of the bondsmen in his canoe. On landing, this chief had three slaves killed and

TARRIAS' RENOVATION.

cooked for refreshment. I was informed by Mr. Butler, junior, that his parent who was a member of the Church Missionary Society at that period, even fell upon his knees to save the remaining miserable wretches. The cannibal consented with great apparent complacency, but much annoyed that he was not allowed to take his favourite repasts in quiet, he removed, after dinner, and bade adieu to the missionaries, who it must be admitted, he invariably protected with his authority. On reaching the Waimate, sixteen miles inland, now belonging to the Church Missionary Society, he had three more slaves killed, and feasted to his heart's content, until his stock, originally about forty slaves, were all devoured.

After sufficient time for digestion, this remorseless glutton felt himself renovated, and open to join any new excursion, where the exploits would be probably attended with results similar to the last.

It has often happened that slaves have escaped, and by continual additions to their party from different villages, have formed a community or tribe among themselves.

The Wakatoa tribe at Opotiki, bearing north of the volcano Wakari, in the Bay of Plenty, have sprung from such runaways. These latter fel-

SLAVERY LAWS.

lows amount to three hundred fighting men. The elected chief resided for some time in the Bay of Islands. While there he invited the master of a colonial trader, the "John Dunscombe," in 1834, to sail to his settlements, promising him a full cargo of flax. The master did so, accompanied by the chief. On the bar of the river Opotiki, there was scarce sufficient water, and the vessel struck heavily several times in getting over. As soon as she was in deep water, the natives came on board and stripped the vessel of everything portable, leaving the bare hull only. After causing the crew to undergo many hardships, the ship was at last permitted to leave, almost a wreck. By dint of refitting at the river Thames, the "Dunscombe" arrived at the Bay of Islands, and underwent a thorough repair.

Slaves are often sold or exchanged among the natives, and sometimes the masters will discharge and allow them to go away free.

Slaves sold to Europeans are not virtually the property of the latter, as has been instanced in many cases, the slave running away to the village of his former master, who extends his protection to him.

The price of slaves differs much; a small hatchet would have purchased three or four of them in 1814, but twenty years later a single

CHARACTER OF SLAVES.

individual in the Bay of Islands, was worth thirty times that amount. Seamen running away from ships are often made slaves. The "Waterloo," and the "Harriet," were both wrecked off Taranaki; the master, wife and two children, together with the crew, of one of the vessels were taken prisoners by the natives, who treated them all in a cruel manner. Several were murdered, cooked and devoured, and the heads preserved. H. M. S. "Alligator," Captain Lambert, sailed to their assistance, and had great difficulty in preserving his ship from being wrecked on a dead lee shore. After some skirmishing with the natives who acted with their usual treachery, he recovered the survivors. Much praise was due to Captain Lambert for the address with which he performed the arduous service. Some of the heads of the murdered seamen were found preserved by the usual process.

Slaves are the most annoying of the several classes in the country; having no character to gain or lose, they subject the commercial trader to much inconvenience.

Slaves who die by disease are seldom devoured, but hastily flung either into the sea or a hole, where the dogs often feed upon the remains. Slaves are also termed kuki, from the English

SLAVERY, ITS DRAWBACKS.

word cook, the occupations of the culinary art being confined principally to that class of people.

A runaway slave who leaves the camp of his master, to give information to the enemy, stands but little chance of preferment, as the moment he has finished his narrative to the invaders, his audience rush forward to make him their prisoner, and in the scuffle for precedence a friendly person dashes his head with a tomahawk, that each may partake of the body. In such cases the wild savages struggle with impetuous fury, each striving to apportion to himself the largest share of the feast. The slaves, from the little discipline they are kept in, are important drawbacks to the moral improvement of the people.

They are not less given to the abominable art of lying than the chiefs or freemen, and they fabricate inventions that have also been additional causes towards the present depopulated state of the country.

The population of this extensive country is very limited. Cook and later navigators observe that the number of inhabitants bears no proportion to the extent of country. The North Island has the most extensive population, and the causes mentioned under colonization, of the decrease of the aborigines, I am inclined to think might meet with the benign approval of Miss

DILAPIDATED FORTIFICATIONS.

Martineau, and sensibly relieve the mind of Mr. Malthus.

The habits and manners of the natives of the two islands, differ much.

To the southward of 42 deg., on the west coast, few natives are found, and those that live some degrees to the northward, are mostly dispersed in small parties, and seem destitute of those advantages that are possessed by the islanders of Eainomawe. Those living away from the vicinity of Europeans to the south, lead a life of misery; harassed, unsocial, and uncomfortable, like the Arab in the inspired writings; the men are care-worn, the women as ordinary as the sex can well be, and worn down by early anxiety, hunger, increasing degradation, and incessant fear and misery.

Observant navigators, who have frequented the coast of the southern islands, are struck with the fact of not being able to recollect the faces of their native visitors whom they had seen on previous voyages, they having either migrated elsewhere, or had been driven away by stronger parties. Deserted habitations are presented in every direction, and moss-covered fortifications whose fences trail on the ground, are inhabited solely by the feathered race.

The chief, Raupara, of Kapiti or Entry Island,

ATROCITIES OF EUROPEANS.

has been one of the principal actors in this desolation. He has enacted the part of E'Ongi, in the southern districts.

Equal to that renowned chief in cunning, valour, cannibalism, and good fortune, but possessing a more treacherous disposition, he has been a principal means of weakening his country in the event of foreign invasion.

The wide and dangerous passage of the streights has been no barrier to this man, who has proved an insatiable destroyer to the tribes around.

It must be added that many masters of colonial trading vessels have, for the paltry interested consideration of a few tons of flax, done everything that villany could devise to aid these miserable savages, in destroying each other. A man, if he deserves the appellative, named Stewart, commanded a brig called the "Elizabeth," and sailed from Port Jackson in 1831; he directed his course to Cook's Streight, in search of flax to fill his vessel. On arriving at the flax district, he inquired for the article he was in quest of, when the natives told him, if he would help them to destroy their enemies, his assistance should be rewarded with a cargo of flax. The perfidious wretch instantly agreed, took as passengers a large number of native warriors, and sailed for

ATROCITY OF A EUROPEAN.

Banks Peninsula. On arriving off the coast, Stewart decoyed the principal chiefs and families on board, when they were immediately put in confinement. A great number of the natives of the district were thus decoyed, put to death with tortures, and actually cooked in the ship's coppers, and when the inhabitants could no longer be induced to go on board the floating Golgotha, Stewart and the natives went on shore, destroyed all they could find, and set fire to the villages.

The horror of the poor captured wretches, when they found themselves betrayed by a white man, in whose tribes they had always trusted, is not to be described.

The head chief, a venerable old man, it is currently reported, was nailed alive to a staunchion in the cabin, while the body of his son, in a cooked state, was devoured before him. Other cruelties practised are too disgusting to be mentioned. The authorities in Port Jackson took notice of the crime, and the horrid details were sent home to the Colonial Secretary; it was received with the usual expression of English sympathy, regarded as monstrous and very shocking, and no more was said about it. The ruffian who committed the villainy was allowed to escape; he left Sydney in the same vessel in which he commit-

HUMANITY OF GENERAL DARLING.

ted those enormities. Another master of a schooner, of the same name as the above inhuman fellow, also trafficked in similar commodities. The sensibility of the latter Stewart would only permit him to deal in preserved heads, in which he created such a scarcity in the market, that the natives were induced to fight to preserve the heads of the conquered, and finally obliged Governor Darling, of New South Wales, to issue a humane order against the importation of such disgusting traffic to a civilised man. The conduct of this man was such that his life would be forfeited if he made his appearance on many parts of the coast. This disgraceful conduct, to say the least of it, has been dearly visited on many white men. I was nearly sacrificed, together with a small vessel I chartered, by the natives in Tolaga Bay on my first arrival among them, which I could only attribute to the conduct of masters of ships, who had preceded me on this part of the coast.

CHAPTER IV

CHAPTER IV.

Adventures in Tolaga Bay – Our arrival – Anchor up the river – Battle among rival tribes – Jealousy of the people towards each other – Arrival of the Chief Kani – Presented with relics of Captain Cook – Description of Uwoua – Perforated valley – Cave of Tupia – Cook's Well – Native drawings – Isle of Arches – Remarkable Caverns – A Whale Hunt – Ingenuity of the people – Native Artists.

We arrived in June 1835, after experiencing in our small vessel four successive gales from each quarter of the compass, during our passage from the river Thames (Horake); the cutter in consequence leaked much, and we were obliged to put in to repair the damages we had sustained. Night approaching fast, we anchored close to the small island of Motu Eka, (Fish Isle) previously

TREACHERY OF THE NATIVES.

to which we perceived a large canoe, about seventy feet long, crowded with natives. On the canoe running along side, some chiefs hastily stepped on deck, and after mutual interrogations, we agreed the canoe should take us in tow, as it fell calm.

A couple of European flax traders soon joined us, who behaved with much hospitality. As an assurance to the natives that we should remain at our anchorage during the night, we gave them our water casks to be filled and brought off in the morning, and also ordered some firewood. Early the next morning about thirty canoes, each of a very large size, came off to us filled with people, and bringing a quantity of wood as might well have supplied a ship of five hundred tons for twelve months; we afterwards understood the axe had not lain dormant, but that the natives had been chopping wood all night. However, the rejection of this redundant article did not lessen the mutual friendship that apparently sprung up between us; yet our European friends bade us beware of surprize; treachery might be intended, as it appeared during the preceding evening that it had been strongly debated among the natives, whether or not our vessel and selves should be taken as a prize; the most greedy and adverse party stating as a rea-

ARGUMENTS IN OUR FAVOUR.

son that we had doubtless arrived from Port Jackson, and that it could not possibly be known in that colony whether we perished at sea, or were lost on an inhospitable coast; that nobody being left alive to tell the tale, it would not militate against the place. Notwithstanding the many arguments in favour of the scheme, our good fortune prevailed, as it was urged that the principal chief of the district, then absent at Turunga, (Poverty Bay) some forty miles to the southward, would be greatly enraged at the circumstance of any vessel being despoiled during his absence, also that his conduct had hitherto favoured the visits of shipping, and that such an act must spread abroad through their European residents, who, in consequence of all future vessels avoiding the port, would themselves also leave, and they would be wholly without European trade; – these arguments had prevailed.

As we could not undertake to do our repairs in so open a place as we then lay at anchor, I determined to have the vessel towed into the small river at the head of the bay, which we accordingly had performed by some canoes and our whale boat, the vessel's keel just touching the sand. This was on the turn of the flood tide, and the weather was serene and beautiful. It is not easily to be forgotten, the motley assemblage that

OUR RECEPTION.

greeted the arrival of our vessel, the first that had ever entered the river, following us on either bank, as the craft was slowly towed to her place of anchorage; shouts, acclamations, dancing, songs made for the occasion, cries of "airemai," waving of native garments, blowing the conch with the most discordant din; some of the natives jumping high in the air, others rushing into the water, throwing small sticks at us, (a native mode of welcome) not a few swimming alongside the vessel, and many other feats, accompanied by a deafening noise until we dropped anchor.

Canoes then put off from all quarters, some bringing presents to us, others coming for trading purposes; hogs were brought alongside, sufficient to have filled a larger hold than our vessel possessed.

On the arrival of the chiefs on deck, I made each the necessary presents in tobacco, pipes, &c, and by dint of persuasion and entreaty, obtained some order. I told them the object of our visit was to repair the damages our vessel had sustained during the late gales, and that I would let them feel the benefit of our entering their port, by purchasing every article that I could possibly render serviceable previously to our leaving them; that I would be on shore the following day, and buy as many hogs to salt down as was

MAKE PURCHASES.

fully necessary for the voyage. Accordingly we commenced our repairs of pitching, calking and mending the torn sails.

On our deck sat some of the oldest chiefs, wrapt up in their native mats, who had, when boys, been carried on board the "Resolution," when commanded by the illustrious Cook.

The next morning I went on shore to the village Pa, on the north side of the river, where I found in the yard of one of the flax traders, a number of fine hogs for sale. I had taken with me a carpet bag, containing a variety of trifles, much in repute among the natives, together with some tobacco, tomahawks, hoes, &c, all of which are highly prized. I purchased several large hogs, at a reasonable rate, and the sellers were perfectly satisfied with their payment. I bought from them all that were offered.

I learnt that the settlements on either side of the river, were occupied by different tribes of natives; that those on the south side were the proprietors of the adjacent lands in every direction, and had, as a patronymic, the euphonious sounding names of Te tonga au witi; that they were under the subjection of a chief renowned for his own warlike actions and those of his ancestors, and who could boast of an ancient genealogy inferior to none perhaps in the island. The

[Inserted picture page]

Fortified Village near Poverty Bay, New Zealand

POLICY AND SAGACITY.

name of this dignified hero was Te Kani o tekki rau; that he had invited the natives occupying the north village, whose tribe was called Urua wero, or Burnt Post tribe, from the circumstance of a former fortification formed of posts, which they had, at an earlier period, possessed, being taken in battle and themselves precipitately dispersed, while the said posts having taken fire, were still burning. This people had resided at the bay called Tokomaru, thirty miles to the northward, misnamed by Cook, Tegadoo, to prepare the manufacture of flax for the European settlers, one of whom, in different employments, lived on either side of the river.

The policy of the sagacious chief, in inviting this emigration, (for flax swamps abound for many miles in the vicinity of this bay,) could not prevent feelings of jealousy in either party against each other; trifling collisions were incessantly taking place previous to our arrival, but an occasion early arrived, after our casting anchor between the two settlements, that eventually caused their separation.

Anxious to finish our repairs and to proceed with our work undisturbed, I generally went on shore to make my purchases, but on the fourth morning after our arrival, the deck was filled with natives from the north village, selling nets,

FURY OF A CHIEF.

fishing lines, and garments, made of the flax-plant, in exchange for nails, hooks, tobacco, lead, musket flints, &c. The trade was carried on somewhat briskly, when, whether previous mischief was intended I could never discover, a musket, loaded with ball, was fired by a chief from the south village. The report of the weapon was no sooner heard by us than a chief, named Rangihuia, a chief of the south tribe, but residing with his friends in the north village, being in disgrace with his former friends and relatives from bad conduct, instantly threw off his native garments, tightened his belt round his denuded body, and with the most ferocious gestures vehemently demanded his friends and all on board to leave the vessel, and pull for the shore; to those who were slow in obeying his commands he instantly seized a rope, and, indifferent to rank, age, or sex, soon cleared the vessel by making those natives take to swimming, who had no canoes alongside. With hurried distortion of features, he commenced a war speech, vociferating with all his might, and defying the southern tribe by language and gestures equally obscene and disgusting; he then hastened on shore to the north village, which was close aboard. The chiefs and slaves, entirely naked, all armed with muskets, met this hasty personage, whose fury

A NATIVE QUARREL.

appeared to be augmented by finding himself once more on terra firma. The war dance now commenced on either side of the river, and each party during its continuance, brandished their muskets, making furious gesticulations, and shouting towards each other curses, and defiance.

Rangihuia, who appeared to be the principal in the quarrel, flew up and down the beech, a representation of an infuriated demon; his tongue was thrust out to its utmost length; his eyes glared with the frenzy of a ruthless fiend; no horrible grimace was omitted that could strike terror into the enemy. The muskets which had been hastily loaded with ball, were now discharged by either party against each other; but instead of the butt being placed against the shoulder, the pieces were hastily levelled without aim, the stock being lodged against the hip. The parties were out of reach of the ball, otherwise destructive work might have ensued; however, we being within reach of either, suffered not a little in our sails. Suddenly, within twenty minutes after the first gun was fired, a cessation of war took place; each enacted over again the war-dance. A venerable pacificator took to his canoe from the north village, hastily paddled to the opposite

CESSATION OF HOSTILITIES.

village, and settled terms of future peace. As to ourselves, we hastily made below into the cabin, at the commencement of the fracas, esteeming discretion the better part of valour, as the balls flew about us like hail; we had no inclination for so dubious a martyrdom, or to stand as targets to the misdirected aim of these pugnacious people. The venerable old gentleman, who was somewhat scantily dressed for the occasion, having himself been one of the combatants, had only hastily flung an old mat, similar in size to a kilt, and that over his shoulders, which answered the purpose of the herald's tabard; the rest of his lengthy person being after nature's fashion. He no sooner accomplished the business he was ordered on, than a musket was fired as an attestation of peace, misinterpreted by us as a renewal of hostilities, flagrante bello.

Dancing, jesting, and indiscriminate intercourse followed on either side, as if nothing had happened; each boasting of his valorous exploits. This national trait did not add much to the "pleasures of hope," as far as our security was concerned, for we now found that the original cause of the quarrel arose from a jealousy excited in the breasts of the people of the south village, for our having dealt that morning with

ARRIVAL OF THE CHIEF.

too many of their opposite neighbours: of course, had any accident happened by mere chance, to any of the parties during this mad contest, we should have had to bear the brunt; the vessel would probably have been plundered and destroyed, and ourselves slain.

I determined on a different line of policy for the future, while among these people, so that should any quarrel again commence, during the absence of the principal chief, to make "assurance double sure," by detaining on board the young son and heir apparent of Te Kani, then a child of six years old, whose great rank would have been of the utmost service to us.

A few days subsequently to the occurrences above narrated, we were apprised of the Chief Kani, and his retinue of warriors, by a load report of musketry in the southern village. The usual tangi commenced, and for nearly an hour we were anything but regaled with the inharmonious concert. By the time our chief came on board all had resumed their usual gaiety and cheerfulness. He approached the vessel in a small canoe, undistinguished from his people, either in dress or style; his person was noble, in height somewhat above six feet, and, by his dignified walk, commonly assumed by superior men in rank, he shone pre-eminent above his

ARGUMENTS OF THE CHIEF.

companions; his age was about thirty six years, his countenance handsome, but little marked with the moko, and garnished with a large dark bushy beard which gave him the appearance of an Arab of Mocha.

Advancing up to me, we pressed noses, (ongi) and entered into conversation, regretting he had not been at home on my arrival, to prevent any previous unpleasantness; that his absence at Turunga, (Poverty Bay) was occasioned by some quarrels that had broken out among some of the minor chiefs of that place, and those under his chieftainship; that detesting war himself, he had undertaken the journey with a few friendly warriors, to obtain a league of friendship with the opposite party, and had been fortunate enough to succeed in his endeavours to allay the animosity that had then existed for some time. That he had seen no benefit arise from the continual wars that had been carried on among his relatives and friends from his childhood, in which he himself had signally suffered, both in person and property. He had determined on an opposite conduct, and as I must perceive, had invited his relations from Tokomaru, where the korari (flax) was not to be found, to aid both themselves and his tribe, in furnishing the mooka (dressed flax) which abounded around him, to the European; that two

REMINISCENCES OF COOK.

white men unconnected with each other had settled in his village, and that he had given the Tokomaru tribe one of them, that on that account no jealousy might be instituted. He added, (smiling) "perhaps the white man will believe my actions which are before his eyes, better than my conversation." I assured him I had much longed for his arrival, and presented him with a small box containing several esteemed trifles, on the receipt of which, by an attendant (for the chief was tapued by the priest on his arrival, and dared not handle anything) he appeared much delighted. "Aroai de pakeha!" "Katai taku oa!" "Anana!" Exclamations of surprise and pleasure burst from the lips of the gratified man, as each article was produced, and held up to him. After discussing the usefulness of each to his admiring friends, he suddenly turned to them and said, "What can I give the white man who has treated me so well?" This equally posed the gentlemen in waiting, they appeared somewhat hors de combat, when a young man who had attached himself to me, previously to the arrival of Kani said,"That the two spike nails originally given by Te Kuki (Cook) to the natives of Turunga, and captured in battle by Kani's father from the original possessor, would be most acceptable;" the chief

SERVICES OF CAPTAIN COOK.

sent on shore for them immediately. Kani then asked what could induce me to prize a couple of old nails, when I was giving away articles of infinitely greater value made of a similar material, and concluded by asking if Cook was my father or uncle. I told him, proud as I should be of the relationship, I could not boast of being so nearly connected, but that I belonged to the same tribe of Europeans, and was born under the same venerable chieftain; he then asked if Kuki had been a great chief in his own country Ingerani (England). I answered that no name was held in greater estimation, and that the benefit he did his tribe in making known to them countries, the existence of which they were previously to his time ignorant of, would cause his services to be cherished by future tribes yet unborn.

By this time the envoy who had been sent for the nails, returned bringing also with him two handsome garments or mats (kaitaka) made of dressed silken flax; the nails were tied together with a piece of flax; one was a five inch spike without any head, (originally formed so) the other was a six inch spike with a small projection on the head, but not lapping over on each side: they had an antique appearance, and had been used by the natives as chisels, for carving

RELICS OF CAPTAIN COOK.

boxes for their little trinkets. These, together with the mats, were thrown at my feet by the command of the chief, in the usual ungraceful manner, wherein these people are wont to make presents.

They were much surprised at the visible delight I displayed in gaining such valued relics of the greatest navigator, in whatever light we view him, that ever lived. Kani was also much pleased at the reception his presents had met with, and approaching his wife, who with some of her maidens were remarkably mirthful, sitting on the taffrail of the cutter, pointed to three light blue beads that were appended round her throat, with a piece of flax, said, that those, together with the nails were the only relics left of the great Kuki; and from what I had said of him, and the delight I had felt on receiving the nails, should never be parted with out of his family.

The beads underwent an examination all round for the thousandth time, and anecdotes were repeated of that celebrated man and his Tahitian interpreter Tupia; these kept us in conversation for some time. Our anecdote on the first introduction of gunpowder was somewhat laughable. A small quantity of that combustible material had been given to the native head

PLANTING GUN-POWDER.

chief (Kani's father) who, to his unpracticed eye, not perceiving any vast difference between it and the seeds the Europeans had planted, was delighted at the idea of a new vegetable food, to vary the monotonous edibles then only known in the country; – accordingly the natives were ordered by the chief, superintended by himself, to prepare in the most careful manner a plot of ground for this new legume, that was to be indigenous for the future to the soil. The gunpowder was accordingly planted, after a smart shower had previously fallen, to ensure the fruition of the supposed seed; with what success need not be added; part of the stock was consumed by throwing small portions in the fire, the blazing of which surprised the people vastly; but one man, more impatient than the rest, threw the remaining quantity on the ashes, the effects of which, though the quantity was small, quickly dispersed the group exclaiming it was the "Atua no to paheha," (the Deity of the white man).

Kani requested me to accompany him next day to Opotoumu, near the south entrance of the bay, where we should walk over the same ground, and native paths that existed in the time of Cook, and which had been traversed by him. The following morning, at the beginning of the ebb,

UWOUA, OR TOLAGA BAY.

we went in the whale boat, the chief, the arch priest (tohunganui) who was his brother-in-law, accompanying us; we passed over the bar of the river in safety, across which, a little surf broke; we coasted the south side of the bay formed by high cliffs of argillaceous formation. The shore at the base of the cliffs was covered with stones of granite, worn perfectly round and oval by the action of the water, small pieces of burnt wood, tapued sticks, painted with kokowai (red burnt clay) washed away from some sacred shore near the sea, pieces of the vow (native cork tree,) nets and pumice stone, from the volcanic mountain of Wakari to the eastward off the Bay of Plenty, while wild celery hung about in vast profusion, with other indigenous vegetables.

Cook calls this place Tolaga Bay, which is evidently a misnomer as the word is unpronounceable by many of the New Zealanders; the place is termed by the natives Ou Auwoa or Uwoua. I repeatedly requested to know if the place had no other appellation in former times. I was answered, it had never long antecedent to Kuki's time, been known by any other name than Uwoua. This bay lies in latitude 38 deg. 32' south, longitude 178 deg. 22'E. The tide rises about eight

UWOUA BAY.

feet, high water at full and change 6 p.m; the width at the mouth between the headlands, is one and a half mile, in width and depth nearly two miles. We had almost pulled to our destination, when we arrived opposite to a very large cavern, very high and of some depth; we did not stay long to admire this natural curiosity, as close adjoining it, a splendid perforated natural arch burst on our view, exceeding in grandeur anything of the kind I had ever beheld; a reef of rocks ran out into the bay from this gigantic causeway; it was of argillaceous formation similar to the cliffs around. Here I requested to land, which we accordingly did, the perforation led into a valley. I employed some time in sketching this magnificent curiosity, during which the natives made their remarks on the progress of the drawing, one proposing such an alteration, which I no sooner complied with, than not a little laughter ensued at the taste displayed by the scrutinizing eye of my Mentor.

The appearance on either side the arch was romantic in the extreme: shrubs and small trees of every description peculiar to these parts, hung in wild luxuriance from crevices among the rocks; but the mind will scarcely conceive the

OPOTOUMU BAY.

awful tempests, whose repeated ravages could have battered so large an opening in these cliffs.

Through the valley we reached the indent of Opotoumu, beautifully situated in a dell, encircled by rising hills covered with a variety of shrubby trees, evergreens that appeared equally beautiful now in depth of winter, as in the more genial season of summer; not a leaflet but bore the liveliest hue.

The friendly Kani preceded me, and led the way through the devious native paths; which are never to be found in a strait line, even when the road over a plain best admits of it. The part of the valley which we visited, was densely covered with the celebrated tree, known in the South Sea Islands by the name of Kava, here also called from its ungrateful taste kaua-kaua, or bitter: its height is about twenty feet, with a leaf of bright green similar to the laurel tribe; its leaves, when crushed, yield an aromatic fragrance. Several of the palm tribe raised their tall heads above the surrounding foliage.

One tree was pointed out to me as peculiar to this spot, and stated by the natives, who accompanied me, and whose residences were at far distant settlements on the coast, as growing only in this valley; it was in height thirty-five

A PECULIAR TREE.

feet, with spreading branches, frondiferous, and of a similar colour to a species of phillanthus that is found in large quantities near the beech. The tree is nuciferous, and bore at the time clusters of early berries, which when in a mature state are dried by the natives, and used as beads.

The flexible tu pahihi (elder berry) with its pensile clusters of ripe fruit, pending over the surrounding fern of the colour of the mulberry, was also growing in profusion around this neglected valley, encircled by several convolvuluses indigenous only to New Zealand. The Campanula or bell flower of various hues, pink, yellow, and white was observable, climbing around the stalk of every shrub of sufficient strength to bear its light weight. Not a spot of earth lay waste; many parts teeming with the keha or wild turnip whose yellow flower on stalks of six feet in height, covered the distance, as far as the eye could discern, and emitted a pleasing fragrance.

The chief now wound his way up the side of the hill followed by myself and the friends who accompanied us. We were arrested in our progress half way by a cavern, (hana,) which stopt our farther progress. Its arch was remarkably high, but of little depth; it was similarly argillaceous as the caves we had seen below in the

CAVE OF TUPIA.

bay. Kani enquired if I felt gratified, adding "Ekoro, tenei ano te hana no Tupia," (this, friend, is Tupia's cavern.) I learnt that in this cave the favourite interpreter of Cook slept with the natives: "he was often in the habit of doing so during the heats of the day with his native friends, as is the wont of the New Zealanders," said my conductor; "Tupia was a great favourite with our fathers, so much so, that to gratify him, several children who were born in the village, during his sojourn among us, were named after him." A few yards in front of the cave, is a small hole that was dug in the granite rock, by order of Cook, for receiving from a small spring, the fluid that unceasingly flows into it. The marks of the pick axe are as visible, at the present day, as at the period it was excavated under Cook's eye. The water that overflowed this useful little memorial of our illustrious countryman, was pellucid and very cold. The sun had not penetrated this sequestered spot, for many years, from the umbrageous kaikatoa, and other trees that surround it.

Around the surface of the cavern are many native delineations, executed with charcoal of ships, canoes sailing, men and women, dogs and pigs, and some obscenities drawn with toler-

ISLE OF ARCHES.

able accuracy. Above our reach, and evidently faded by time, was the representation of a ship and some boats, which were unanimously pointed out to me, by all present, as the productions of the faithful Taheitian follower of Cook, (Tupia.) This also had evidently been done by similar materials.

This cavern is made use of as a native resting place for the night, as the villages of Uwoua are at some considerable distance from Opotoumu; it is mostly in request by parties fishing for the kohuda, (craw fish,) and other fish, which abound in all these bays, and of which an immense quantity is procurable in the vicinity.

I was much pleased with my excursion, and after a review of the beautiful and interesting localities, we entered the boat which been sent round the bay to meet us. It has seldom been my lot to fall in with scenery more romantic than I found in this small bay of Opotoumu, enhanced by the cherished associations of the immortal circumnavigator. In front of the entrance to the bay is situated the Isle of Arches, (Motu Oroe;) this small island, with deep soundings around it, is perforated in six or eight places, and from its formation, affords so many different views. From a certain point, it presents an appearance not unlike the ancient remains of a cloistered

SUBMARINE CAVERNS.

abbey; again, by shutting many of its perforations, and changing the former position, it recalls to review the dilapidated windows of gothic oriel architecture; it forms an addenda to the surrounding scenery of no common interest. A peculiar rock, not unlike the celebrated Cheese Ring, in Derbyshire, about sixty feet in height, adds to the singularly picturesque appearance of the scene; like the natural curiosity above mentioned, it tapers below. A heavy swell runs between it and the Isle of Arches.

At a later period of my sojourn at Uwoua, I was induced to make another trip, by sea, about forty miles farther to the southward. I was accompanied by the natives in a canoe, which was named the Urua tau, after a deceased chief much renowned for his valour and cannibalism. This canoe, which I afterwards purchased, was formed of four pieces tightly put together; sixty feet in length and six feet three inches in beam. After passing Sporing's Island, (Motu Poriwoa,) we came in sight of a number of caverns whose immense magnitude realized, in their appearance, the Asiatic palaces of the marine enchanters who commanded the winds of space and the waves of the deep, rather than any terrestrial similitude I could call to mind. These stupendous wonders, against which the whole

SUBTERRANEAN CAVERNS.

strength of the vast Pacific lashes, without any intermediate obstruction for thousands of miles to ward off its force, can but seldom be viewed. It requires the calmest weather for some time previous, as a continual heavy swell, formed by immense rolling seas, break with fury on this rugged portion of iron bound coast. This series of magnificent perforations are on so uncommon a scale of magnitude and grandeur as really to defy description; they strike the beholder with awe and admiration and truly induces him to feel,

"God works in a mysterious way
His wonders to perform."

One of the caves on Poriwoa, is excavated close to the water's edge, and, refilling at half flood tide, the approaching waves cause a peculiar hollow noise on entering this submarine cavern, and are again spouted forth to some height, with a noise and appearance similar to the spouting from the spiracle of the right whale; it is named in consequence, by the natives, Mungi no te tohora, (Whale's Mouth.) The entrance to one of these interesting submarine caverns was pointed out to me, by the natives, as capable of being traversed at the lowest ebb of spring tides. It had been

RIGHT WHALES.

passed by a few natives some two or three miles under the ocean's depths from high water mark. The storms and continual gales, experienced during the winter season, prevented my enjoying the invaluable treat which a visit to the cave would doubtless have ensured.

On our return to Uwoua, we saw three whales, each about fifty feet in length, harmlessly spouting and gambolling in the bay. My native friends were quite in glee, and immediately gave chace to one of them, little reflecting if the canoe was upset, (a very probable circumstance,) whether or not I could swim as well as themselves. A young chief, who was in the canoe, who belonged to Kapiti, (Entry Isle,) in Cook's Straits, rose up and shewed us how Europeans kill the whales in that part of the country where he resided, making use of sharp pointed sticks, with which the bottom of the canoe was floored, as mimic lances.

The "Resolution," commanded by Cook, in 1769, remained on this part of the coast nearly three months. He adds, in his remarks, how much he preferred the pacific people he found in this place to the turbulent savages of Poverty Bay.

Sporing's Isle forms the south headland to Uwoua; it is separated from the mainland by a narrow channel. On the top of this island, the

A NATIVE ENGRAVER.

hill is scarped, and was formerly occupied as the Pa, or stronghold; but since the introduction of European implements of war, they have been abandoned, in a great measure, and have fallen into disrepute.

On the south side of the bay the land rises in high cliffs of a similar geological formation. A small rocky islet, called Motu Eka, lies to the north-east, at a small distance from the shore, and several sunken rocks and reefs lie some few miles to the eastward.

In this district of Uwoua, I met with many clever artists in the pleasing art of wakiro, (carving,) which in beauty of workmanship and intricacy of design, (not always confined to the most modest subjects,) left, at an immeasurable distance, any thing of the kind I had hitherto seen to the northward. I gave a pair of pocket pistols to a chief, named Toura, to carve on the butts and design whatever his fancy might incline him; in a few days he presented them to me, finished in as chaste a style as I could have procured from an European artist; his modest demand of a small head of tobacco for each was immediately paid. This artist also favoured me with a carved stern post, (rapa,) for my canoe, the "Urua tou." A representation of this piece of laborious workmanship cost

HIS PERFORMANCES.

the artist six weeks' incessant labour, including the assistance he received from his friends; his bill, (six small pieces of wood tied together with a piece of flax,) when presented, was paid instanter; the sum total amounting to six heads of tobacco, or not quite one half pound of the narcotic. This native gentleman, whom I created my artist in ordinary, during my residence in his vicinity, I employed, as long as he would work, and generally gave him something to do, especially carving an elaborately engraven box; but unless kept upon short allowance, little would he do in the way of work.

CHAPTER V

CHAPTER V.

Establishment of the Church Missionary Society – The difficulties met with – Misconduct of the early members – Missionary travels – Stations of the Church Missionary Society – Wesleyan Methodist Missionary Society – Its establishment at Wangaroa – Subsequent ejectment by hostile tribes – Settlement at Hokianga – Improvement of the people – Visit to Hokianga – Influence of missionaries – Destruction of the "Boyd" – Causes assigned at the present day – Attack on the "Endeavour" – Capture and loss of the"Mercury."

The establishment of a missionary settlement, for converting the heathen natives from the error of their superstitions, was commenced in the Bay of Islands, at a village called Rangioua, on the north side of the harbour, in 1814.

The persons deputed to the onerous task had been sent out under the auspices of the Directors of the Church Missionary Society, who have

EARLY MISSIONARIES.

never relaxed in their endeavours to further and promote the laudable work which they originally undertook at the solicitation of the Reverend Samuel Marsden, senior chaplain of New South Wales. This mission, as it might be also said of those in the South Seas, undertaken by the parent body, viz., the London Missionary Society, could scarcely have been entered upon, with probable success, but for the previous establishment of the colony of New South Wales.

The early missionaries, in New Zealand kept their ground with great difficulty. They, at first, were placed under the protection of a chief, named Tuatara, (lizard,) who died shortly after. They afterwards divided their strength by establishing a settlement at the head of the Keri keri river, some few miles to the westward of the first settlement. In this place they were under the protection of E'Ongi, an uncle of the deceased Juatara. The new settlement, under a chief of the same family, which ultimately proved judicious, caused much jealously among the surrounding chiefs, especially Korokoro, chief of Paroa, a wily political native and Pomare a chief residing at the Kouakoua, an insatiate cannibal, but equally as sagacious and politic as his rivals. The principal cause of fear, on the part of the

EARLY MISSIONARIES.

missionaries, was the continual absence of E'Ongi, who was constantly bent on war, and that his enemies might take advantage of his absence. They had innumerable trials to undergo, in which every commercial settler has had fully to participate, singly and alone who has hitherto resided in the country.

The missionaries, for many years, were barely tolerated by the natives, in consequence of their determination not to supply European ammunition to the natives.

It must here be remarked that, at this early period, the Directors of the Society in England had not the means of choosing labourers for the work of converting a people whom the accounts of all travellers agreed in representing in the most repulsive terms. Such persons as could be obtained were sent out, without the Society being sufficiently enabled to ascertain the individual character of each of their missionaries; the consequence was, that a number of worldly-minded men arrived at the seat of labour, and from their general conduct were detrimental to the well devised intentions of the Society at home. Partly from the reprehensible conduct of some of these men, many collisions occurred between them and the commercial traders, who were stigmatized by the appellation

EARLY MISSIONARIES.

of devils, (pronounced by the natives Tawara,) by which name every person is still distinguished who is not attached to the honourable society which the early missionaries disgraced, and were afterwards ejected from, as early as their infamous conduct with the females of the land was made known. I readily admit the intelligent portion of the society's labourers, at present located in New Zealand, would have deprecated so silly an appellation for their commercial countrymen, who needed more the assistance than the enmity of the missionary body; but the name had gone forth, and nick-names once given cannot be recalled from the natives.

To these early missionaries and their misconduct, the present body composing the Society's missionaries, may in some measure attribute having often found the minds of the natives exasperated against them, as also by the vicious untameable conduct of many prisoners who have escaped from the colony of New South Wales, and like wild beasts, roam where they list, poisoning the native feelings, equally against all classes of respectable Europeans, hitherto undeterred by fear of punishment.

Many of the missionaries have been faulty in hastily repudiating the testimony of respectable Europeans in exculpation of themselves,

PRESENT MISSIONARIES.

and listening to the plausible inventions of the natives, of whom the principal chiefs of the land, it is well known, are unworthy of being trusted on their most solemn affirmation, and once excited, they will not scruple to slander their dearest and nearest relatives by tales of wild inventions – the effects of bitter hatred and passion.

As an individual residing in the country, in my transactions with a minor portion of the brethren, I have met with kindness, hospitality and politeness. These remarks particularly refer to Messrs. Henry and W. Williams, Clarke, Humblin, Fairburn, Chapman, etc. who have conciliated esteem by the usefulness of their lives. There are doubtless others of equally pleasing character, removed in distant stations.

Many observations animadverting on the conduct of the missionaries of the Church Missionary Society in New Zealand have been penned by transient travellers of our own country. Without alluding to any particular writer, it must be observed, the general conduct of many such visitors to New Zealand has not been sufficiently guarded, to say the least, to permit a missionary extending towards them a hospitable reception, or even intercourse; it is a well

VOCATION OF A MISSIONARY.

known axiom, that persons prodigal of their time are prone to dissipation of almost every kind; such has often been the case with occasional residents, and by such persons the designs of the brethren would naturally be misrepresented. The vocation of a missionary is the most worthy pursuit to which a human being can devote his talents; and as the earliest of these self-denying teachers has said, "let nothing be done in strife or vain glory, but in lowliness of mind; let each esteem others better than himself; look not every man on his own things, but every man on the things of others. Do all things without murmurings and disputings, that ye may be blameless and harmless, the sons of God without rebuke." That a contrary conduct has been enacted by some few members has been too true. A single associate belonging to a missionary family has the power to injure the cause, to the aid of which all have combined together, to an extent more serious, than can be described; such has been the case of a late missionary, on whom the most onerous duties of the mission were assigned, and who had for many years privately conducted himself in so defective a manner, not only as to disgrace the cause to which he was attached, but humanity itself. This behaviour was reported to the brethren

CHURCH MISSIONARY SOCIETY.

for several years by the natives, but not only no enquiry was instituted, but the subject was even forbidden to be mentioned, until about two years since, a quarrel ensuing in Port Jackson, between the person alluded to, and two of his pathics, the man was disgraced; on enquiry being instituted, a mass of information was furnished by the New Zealanders, of sufficient weight to crush a host. To the enquiry put by the brethren to the natives, "why did you withhold this account from us hitherto?" the ready answer was given;"you forbade us to speak against any one of your body, for if we offend any of you, we offend all." This subject is not mentioned to furnish data against this mission; far from it, but it is absolutely necessary that the cause should be given, why comparatively, so little has been done by this body of missionaries within the quarter of a century, they have been established in the country.

Many of the present missionaries are men truly devout, enterprising, and fully eligible for the sacred enterprise on which they have embarked, but whose best exertions have been rendered nugatory, hitherto, by the misconduct of these "tares among the wheat." It is but justice to add, the Society at home have invariably made strict enquiry into the early and pre-

ON MISSIONS.

sent conduct of their labourers; and have never patronised any person in their employ, who has, by his misconduct, drawn down their displeasure.

A talented friend to missions in the United States, observes, "that the character of a missionary, is the common property of Christendom. Acting as they do, under the perpetual inspection of immense multitudes of the children of God, including in their number many of the wisest and best of mankind, any defection in character brings reproach on the general cause, clothing in sackcloth the friends of missions throughout the globe; and as the pages of the missionary annals are perused by thousands, in climes remote from their sphere of action, of various nations and language, the conduct of a fallen member fills with sorrow the heart of the poor peasant, as he sits down after his daily toil, to solace his friends and himself by the evening fireside, and reads the disastrous story; even the converted native stands confounded when he hears the tale, and fervent missionaries in various distant regions feel the loss of a brother, and are paralysed, exclaiming mournfully, 'tell it not in Gath.'

The society had established, up to January 1838, several settlements, four of which are

PROCEEDINGS OF MISSIONARIES

in or within a few miles of the Bay of Islands; one to the northward on the river Rangounou, another at the river Thames, and also one at Touranga in the Bay of Plenty, and others farther. The South Society in England have, with great liberality tempered by prudence, benevolently applied themselves to the civilizing, and consequently evangelizing the natives of the land; and to the even conduct of many of the present missionaries, despite of the drawbacks I have fully stated among the defective members of their corps, must be entirely attributed, the marked improvement in the rising generation of the people, who reside at some distance from the vicinity of reckless, runaway sailors who have broken engagements with their employers, and prisoners escaped from the penal colonies.

The mission chapel-houses, &c. are built of timber, brick, and a few of stone, in the erection of which the missionaries have been assisted by the natives in their employ, many of whom are really proficient in the trade of house-carpentry, joiner's work, shingling, sawing, &c. The struggles of the early missionaries, many of whom are now comfortably located in the country, were sorely distressing; nor are these difficulties less felt at the present day in the new formed stations, where few of the members have

OF THE CHURCH MISSIONARY SOCIETY.

settled themselves, but at the extreme hazard of their lives.

In 1830 a small vessel called the "Herald," was built for the use of this mission; but after making a few voyages, it was wrecked; another small vessel, called the Kareri or Messenger, was also laid down; this craft is still in being.

In 1835 a handsome schooner was purchased, built at New South Wales, called the "Columbine;" this is admirably adapted for the coast, from its beautiful model, in working off a lee shore; the brethren are now enabled to visit the natives of either island.

The missionaries have made many boat expeditions and journeys by land, either to establish peace between hostile tribes, or in search of suitable spots for settlements among distant tribes. These travels have been principally undertaken by Messrs. Fairburn, Chapman, H. and W. Williams, Hamblin, and are given at large in the interesting "Records" of the Church Missionary Society. The Waimate establishment, fifteen miles to the westward of the Bay of Islands may be regarded as the agricultural settlement of the society in New Zealand. The formation of this farm in 1830, called forth the torpid mechanical genius of the native youth, in the making of thousands of bricks, excavating wells,

CHURCH MISSIONARY SOCIETY.

felling and sawing timber, building stalls for horses, cottages, shops for different mechanical works; forming agricultural implements, such as ploughs, harrows, waggons, carts, and "last not least," the erection of a mill for grinding corn, which was certainly an era in the country, in the progress of mechanism.

There are several schools for teaching the natives the aboriginal language; they are further instructed in writing and arithmetic. Many of the natives display much tact and ability in all these branches.

Several parts of the scriptures have been translated into the national tongue, but the only dictionary published, has been the work of Professor Lee, aided by some natives, many years back.

Agriculture has been principally attended to at the Waimate.

This mission has done more towards making the natives acquainted with improvements in their farms, and setting examples of comfort and domestic felicity, than all the commercial Europeans added together; and but for the previous establishment of this society, commercial men would have found it wholly unsafe to reside in the country.

Secular persons in the employ of the Society

RITES OF MARRIAGE.

originally sent to teach the people the value of European industry, no longer pursue the different trades they originally proposed to teach; but have aided the brethren as catechists. Much praise is due to the married females of the mission, whose attentions are directed to the schools; their conduct has been most exemplary, either as wives, mothers or fast friends to the improvement of the natives, whose estrangement from their former ferocity of manners, is to be attributed much to the moral deportment of our fair countrywomen attached to the Church Missionary Society.

The ceremony of marriage has been introduced into the country by the missionaries, who very properly wholly discountenance any European workmen they may be necessitated to employ, cohabiting with native females. A variety of opinions have been expressed on the fitness of the unbaptized native female to enter into the obligations of this civil and religious rite with a European, but one opinion only can be entertained of its moral intention. Few of the native men, however, regard the compact as more binding with their daughters and sisters than if they were living in concubinage, and on trivial pretences forcibly take them away from their husbands, hurry them on board the ships, and for a

MARRIAGE BETWEEN EUROPEAN

gratuity consign them to prostitution, from which fate the female has no power to withhold herself, however abhorrent to her feelings and repugnant to those affections she may entertain for her husband.

Many facts bearing on this point could be adduced, but the opposite grades of a chief female, who prided herself greatly upon her rank, and a slave wife will be sufficient.

In 1833, I first employed a Genoese carpenter, named Dominic Ferrari, whom I retained in my employ till I left the country. He was remarkably temperate and well behaved, and had cohabited with a chief female for two years previously to entering my service. The parents of the woman had fallen in the casualties of native warfare, leaving with her an elder sister and two brothers, with somewhat diminished dignity and means. Dominic, less from his abilities than his good conduct, gave me much satisfaction; and with the enthusiasm of his nation, was submissively attached to the lady. Without any pretensions to canonization, as an apostle of morality, I could not, consistently with feelings of self respect, tacitly permit an illicit intercourse on the settlement. As it was impossible to avoid the knowledge of the fact, I spoke to the man on the subject; however untenable the

MEN AND NATIVE WOMEN.

promiscuous marriages of the natives were, and contrary to my own wishes, I should feel dictated by duty to dispense with his services, unless he felt inclined to return the female to her friends, or would marry her, according to the customs of Europeans who felt affection to the object of their choice. He stated he would be happy to comply with my wishes whenever his means permitted him, as the lady was "nothing loth," but that the elder brother required a quantity of ammunition, blankets, etc. for himself, and the patronizing chief of the tribe demanded a few hard dollars for his permission to be had and obtained. I readily advanced the necessary money and articles of trade required to surmount the obstacles to wedlock, obtained a marriage document of approval and consent, which was signed, sealed, and delivered; the marriage ceremony was duly performed by a member of the Church Missionary Society, and the lady made a wahine pakeha, or wife of a European. A decided improvement accordingly took place in the female; her cleanly appearance, correct conduct, and continual attendance every evening and twice each ra tapu, or holy day (Sunday) to the ware karakia maori, or native house of (Christian) prayer, and the exemplary manner Te Riri, (her

BRUTALITY OF A CHIEF.

name) was instrumental in correcting the levity and thoughtlessness hitherto displayed by many of her female companions.

It has been stated that the missionaries derive a small perquisite from their performance of the ceremony of marriage; I beg distinctly to observe, that they have ever expressed a willingness to join any couple in marriage, exhibiting any prospects of living happily together and not disgracing the compact; but they neither demand or receive any present or fee for their performing this portion of their duty.

This pleasing state of things lasted but a few months. The elder brother, notwithstanding his expressions of satisfaction at the payment that had been given to him, demanded additional presents for a continuation of his friendship or permission for his sister to reside with her husband. This bad conduct I opposed for some time, but during a short absence I made from the settlement, the poor woman was forcibly taken away from her home, and miscarriage was the consequence of the brutal treatment she then experienced. The husband attended at Paihia, the missionary station; the gentlemen expressed their willingness to exert any influence they possessed, but it was found to be unavailing.

MIXED MARRIAGES.

Fresh presents only, re-united her to her husband, who has been obliged to continue the system, as at any time his shewing any refractory disposition to avoid the imposition, plans have been undertaken to abduct her from her home, which at last obliged the unhappy couple, on my leaving the country, to repair to Wangaroa about forty miles distant from my settlement, to seek the protection of other tribes.

In the war at the Bay of Islands, in 1837, an able shipwright, residing on the banks of the Waikeri, had been married to a native woman full sixteen years, and had a numerous family by her. The children, even in England would have been regarded as handsome. The eldest sons were serviceable to their father in his employment, yet during the quarrel of the tribes this man was obliged to send away his wife, children, servants, and every article of furniture in his house or workshop, as the adverse party to the tribe he belonged, would have stripped the place and taken prisoners as slaves the wife and children; – such is New Zealand law.

A blacksmith, named Grey, formerly employed by the gentlemen composing the New Zealand Association, in 1827, was married by a missionary to a female slave of the Napui tribe. This man has met with much annoyance from the people

WESLEYAN MISSIONARY SOCIETY.

to whom the woman originally belonged and the children are accounted as slaves, and regarded as appertaining less to the Englishman than to the tribe, originally possessors of the mother. No blame can be attached to the missionaries; but even the existence of a despotic government, is more essential to the well being of a community, than lawless aggression, and the reign of brute force and terror at present predominant.

The Wesleyan mission was first established at Wangaroa, thirty-five miles N. W. of the Bay of Islands, in the year 1823, by the directors etc., of the Wesleyan Methodist Missionary Society, after mature deliberation.

The tribes then residing in that beautiful harbour were the Na-te huru, amounting to about two hundred persons; the Na-te po occupied the adjacent valleys to the number of seven hundred persons. The missionaries were well received on their arrival, but they had to undergo privations, insults, thefts, of the most exasperating nature, daily and hourly demanding from the isolated band, boundless patience and fortitude, and from the females of the station an heroic courage that is scarcely supposed to exist in the female bosom, until circumstances arouse feelings of love and devotion to the interests of their husbands and children.

ESTABLISHMENT AND EJECTION.

The brethren had already made considerable progress in the language, and had formed schools, when E'Ongi, who had been almost driven to desperation by recent domestic occurrences, resolved to leave the villages he had hitherto inhabited, which reminded him of his shame and misfortunes.

In January 1827 the restless chief arrived in the harbour of Wangaroa, accompanied by a fleet of canoes. On receipt of this news, Te Puhi, chief of the Na-te huru tribe, took to flight with most of his people, nor rested until he arrived at Hokianga, on the west coast. The Na-te po, the rival tribe, occupied the Pa, situated on the summit of the steep hill Taratara, deemed almost impregnable, at which spot some skirmishing took place.

The Wesleyan brethren deserted by their native friends, were left to the tender mercies of the enemy. The Na-te po fled from their Pa, and when E'Ongi's people (the Napui) entered into possession, they only found the aged mother of Te Puhi, the chief who took to flight, and an old servant woman, both of whom were quickly dispatched and devoured. Scattered portions of the enemy shortly after appeared before Wesley Dale, the mission station, and on being asked what they required, answered: "To take away

THE MISSION BROKEN UP.

your things, burn down your house, for your place is deserted, and you are ka wati," (a broken people).

On the following day a large party of marauders appeared before the mission premises and broke open the doors and windows; they stole every article of apparel, food and furniture, leaving the hapless brethren with scarce enough of bodily clothing. The members of the Church Missionary Society, as early as they became acquainted with the misfortunes of their fellow labourers in the same cause, hastened towards Wangaroa, anxious to render every assistance in their power. The Wesleyan families driven away from their settlement, were met with on the road by their friends, and the most unremitting kindness was shewn to them until they left the country for Port Jackson. The Napuis' exercised their usual cruelties in the vicinity of Wesley Dale. Some of the robbers, not contented with what they found above ground, had the barbarity to exhume the body of an infant child of Mr. Turner, the principal of the mission, which had been interred but a few months before, for the sake of the blanket in which they supposed the body to have been enveloped, and wantonly left the corpse to moulder above ground.

Undeterred by their recent misfortunes, the

EDUCATION OF CHILDREN

Wesleyan friends returned to New Zealand, and established themselves at their settlement on the banks of the Hokianga, at the latter end of the same year. A more choice locality could not have been fixed upon.

The members of the Wesleyan denomination have been very few hitherto; nevertheless their labours have not been exerted in vain among a portion of people, as barbarous as the civilized imagination can conceive. Real converts in the heart are few and far between; but the very hypocrisy of the elder neophites, in aping religious feelings and observances, is of the most essential importance, as a useful example of sedateness and reverential feeling to the rising generation; these will take the place of the boisterous war-song and dance, and their abominable accompanying gesticulations and obscenities that were, but a few years since, the tuition inseparable to the education of a native child in Hokianga.

A more imitative being does not exist than the New Zealander, and the missionaries of either of the above highly respectable societies may regard their labours hitherto, as amply satisfactory in having been able to repress, in some degree, the savage barbarity formerly inseparable in the habits and manners of the elder people, who in physical

MODERN NEOPHITES.

strength are certainly men; but in mental ability are very children.

I resided on the banks of the Hokianga during twelve months, in the years 1831 and 1832, and on a recent visit, (in 1837,) was much surprised at the evident improvement of the natives of that district, solely attributable to the influence of the Wesleyan brethren.

At that period, Mr. Turner conducted the mission, assisted by some indefatigable friends, who, together with the sisters of the station, appeared happy in being placed in a situation of usefulness.

On this visit I recognised some chiefs with whom I had formerly been intimately acquainted, and well remembered as having been real rascals. These native gentlemen had doffed their characters as warriors, and had put on the garb of humility. In the course of some interesting conversation, they gave me to understand that the Taniwoa and the whole native theology was "no good," and felt much satisfaction in being able to add, they had become Na tamariki no te Atua nui, (children of the Great Spirit); that many of them had been admitted to the rites of baptism. My acquaintance merely wanted the expressive abilities of pronunciation to inform me who they now were, since their regeneration. A

IMPORTANT CHANGES.

new friend with an old face, formerly known as Matanghi, only answered to the name of Himeni Peta (Simon Peter.) The valiant Nene, figured under the commercial name of Thomas Walker; others had assumed the sainted names of Mohihi, (Moses,) Aprahama, (Abraham,) Ruki, (Luke,) Akopi, (Jacob,) Rawiti, (David,) E'Honi, (John,) Timati, (Timothy,) and other cognomens still less resembling the original sounds, and several natives whom I had formerly known as especial cavaliers, were now metamorphosed into puritanical roundheads. The national dress had also undergone a change; instead of the loose single blanket, which perhaps best becomes the native figure in a picturesque point of view, the duck frock and trowsers were added, which no person, in search of the moral, will be disposed to cavil with. In justice to the missionaries, I must add they were not deceived by this show of humility, but sensibly concluded it would soften down the natural asperity and hasty conduct of the parents, and be the means, in the course of time, of enlightening the children.

The females, whose acquaintance I had not forgotten, professed their usual politeness. I felt much annoyed in having forgotten most of their names, as the natives of either sex feel much gratified in these being remembered by their English

NATIVE IMPROVEMENTS.

visitors; but this forgetfulness, on my part, gave no offence, for Parre was now Hana, (Anna,) Wirpata, was Pekka, (Rebecca;) Puhihi was Hane, (Jane;) Redi answered to Uria, (Julia;) and for Haupatu, I was corrected and desired to read Ko Hara, (Sarah.) They had all evidently improved under the auspices of the missionary sisters, except in countenance, which did look rather the worst for wear.

Mungugnu the missionary station, is prettily situated, about twenty-five miles from the heads of Hokianga, with deep water for large ships opposite the settlement. The mission houses have been built with the strictest regard to economy; they have a pleasing effect from the river. The schools appeared well attended, and the native karakia, performed daily by the neophytes of either mission, are conducted in as orderly a manner as is observable in any country village in England.

My visit to Hokianga was ill-timed; native wars had broken out among some of the tribes, which caused universal confusion throughout the families resident on the river. The influence of the brethren was exerted to quell the raging enmity that was actuating the hostile tribes against each other.

During the period occupied by the Wesleyan

LOSS OF THE "BOYD."

missionaries at Wangaroa, they were frequently obliged to witness the barbarous conduct of the natives. The outrage on the brig, "Mercury," of London, Edwards, master, on the 5th of May, 1825, and also a similar depredation nearly committed on the "Enterprise" in the previous July 1824, were only excelled by the barbarous massacre of the crew of the ship "Boyd," Captain Thompson that sailed from Port Jackson for London in 1809.

This ship had seventy Europeans on board and four natives of Wangaroa; one of them, son to an influential chief of that place, called by the sailors George, but whose native name was Tara, were to be conveyed to their native country in the "Boyd," as the vessel was chartered to take in a cargo of spars, for the Cape of Good Hope. According to the published account, it would appear, the master had caused George to be flogged at various times, for refusing to help to work the ship. The writers on this catastrophe, among whom the most creditable is Alex. Berry Esq., at present member of the legislative Council at Port Jackson, who visited the scene of the calamity, shortly after its perpetration, agree in ascribing the cruel conduct of the master to George, as the cause of the destruction of the crew and ship in

PROPOSALS TO TAKE THE SHIP.

the sequel. A different cause is now assigned by the natives to the English residents, that the ship was not cut off from any misconduct of the master to George; but on the return of the latter from Port Jackson, he found some of his nearest relations dead through sickness, which was solely attributed to the influence or bewildering of Europeans. Thus much is due to the memory of the unfortunate man, who must have been insane, to place himself and a ship of five hundred tons, in the power of one whom he had injured, and risk his vessel in the narrow channel of an unknown river, which had never been previously visited, even by small craft.

On the arrival of the "Boyd" in the harbour, George went on shore, and arrangements were entered into by himself and his tribe for decoying the Englishmen on shore, that by dividing their force, the vessel and cargo might become an easier prey. In furtherance of this purpose, George again returned on board, and requested Captain Thompson to accompany him on shore, to show him the place where the most valuable spars abounded. An Otaheitean, one of the survivors of the ship, states that the master had three boats manned, and accompanied by his chief officer, George, and a number of na-

EUROPEANS MURDERED.

tives following in their canoes, took their course up the Kaio river. The wily chief had the boat steered to some distance from the ship, out of sight, and then invited the Europeans to land.

The master and crew did so, and were purposely separated by the natives from each other, and led about in different directions of the forest, until the tide which had by this time turned, would leave the boats high and dry on the mud bank, so as to prevent the escape of their victims. On this part of their plan being accomplished, they threw off the mask, insulted the people, and pointed to decayed pieces of timber lying rotting on the ground, enquiring of the master if such would suit his purposes. George then told him in broken English, he might help himself to timber, but he should have none from Nu Tilani man. Captain Thomson appeared careless, and gave orders to his people to man the boats, and was himself in the act of looking up a tall fine spar, (George ironically enquiring if that would suit him) when the relentless savage cut him down with his tomahawk; this was a signal for the murder of the Europeans which was almost instantly accomplished, and so sudden was the perpetration of the deed, that not a musket could be levelled in self-defence.

The bodies were carried into the canoes and

SEIZURE OF THE SHIP,

devoured in the village where they were conveyed.

At dusk the treacherous natives clothed themselves in the garments of the unfortunate slain, and arrived at the ship in the boats, which were hailed by the second officer; George answered him that the captain had determined to sleep on shore, and that the lateness of their arrival alongside was occasioned by the boats towing some spars. This was too readily believed, and the natives, hastily ascending the ship's side, speedily despatched the officer on deck at the time. One of the savages, who had been a passenger on board, entered the cabin below, and requested the passengers to go on deck and view the spars. One female in ascending the stairs to do so was killed on the steps; those persons who were in bed ran on deck in great confusion, and were murdered, except five, who made their escape into the rigging, where they remained all night.

Te Pahi, (Tippahee) a chief of the Bay of Islands, who had accidentally arrived at Wangaroa on a fishing excursion, was sitting in his canoe the next morning alongside the Boyd. The people in the rigging recognizing him, implored his assistance, which he readily promised. They made their way to his canoe with difficulty, and

ITS DESTRUCTION.

were hastily paddled on shore; but they were as quickly pursued by the blood thirsty savages, forcibly taken from the old man, and murdered in his presence.

A female passenger, now residing in Sydney, two children, and the cabin boy, were the only Europeans saved; they were carried on shore. The ship was plundered of everything valuable; the salt provisions and spirits were thrown overboard as unpalatable, but the muskets and ammunition were invaluable, and the father of George, in his eagerness to ascertain the quality of the lock of a musket that had fallen to his share, burst in the head of a cask of powder, and filling the pan of the piece snapped it directly over the cask, which exploded, killing the insatiate savage, together with thirteen other persons, and set fire to the ill-fated ship, which burnt to the water's edge.

Mr. Berry, supercargo of the City of Edinburgh, who presented to the public an interesting narrative of the transaction, and Captain Pattison master of the vessel, were employed at the period taking in spars at the Bay of Islands. They soon heard the disastrous tale, and immediately set out in a whale boat to Wangaroa, with the humane determination of saving the survivors, if possible. By decisive conduct and presence of

A SURVIVOR

mind, they were enabled to obtain possession of the four persons who had alone remained unsacrificed. Mr. Berry observes, that one of the children, a little girl belonging to a Mr. Broughton of Sydney, was in the possession of one of the chiefs. When presented to Mr. Berry it was tolerably clean and ornamented with the white feathers of the country. She was clothed in a linen shirt, which, from the marks on it, had belonged to the unfortunate captain. When brought to the gentlemen, she cried out, struck with their different complexion to those of her captors: "My mamma, my mamma." Mr. Berry remarks, that some months after, when in South America, the question was put to the child, "what the New Zealanders did to her mamma?quot; she would draw her small hand across her throat, and with the most melancholy expression, added, "they afterwards cut her up, and ate her like victuals."

George was a ruthless barbarian; he never repented the act, though the destruction of "the Boyd" only hastened the fate of his tribe, partly from the cupidity of those native tribes residing in the vicinity, who did not share in the plunder, having settled their hatred on these people. The hull of the "Boyd" broke from its moorings at the time the powder exploded, and the ship drifted

THE "DROMEDARY."

into shallow water at the head of the bay. In 1835, I saw the ribs of part of the wreck at the spring ebb tide. In 1825, sixteen years after the loss of the "Boyd", the Wesleyan missionaries placed themselves under the protection of George. They met but little kindness from him, or even assistance; he lived long enough to see the probable destruction of his tribe, which was effected shortly after his death by E'Ongi.

The conduct of George towards the Europeans ever after, was marked by mistrust and continual suspicion. In 1820, he supplied spars to the government store ship "Dromedary;" and though attentive to the officers of that vessel, yet was he continually harassing them with the perplexities and apprehensions under which he was continually labouring, telling them the many inventions purposely put forth by his enemies, as to his destruction and that of his tribe by the British soldiery. He could not trust himself on board the ship without distrust and alarm as he always felt assured the white men would punish him for his conduct in the affair of the "Boyd." Though he had been to Port Jackson, he yet felt inclined to return, as he was always apprehensive the colonial government would hang him.

DEATH OF GEORGE.

His countrymen felt, or pretended to feel, a great dislike to him for his successful villany, and he was obliged to put up with many insults from superior chiefs, whom his haughty spirit dared not offend. Previously to his death, finding his end approaching, he sent for Mr. Stack, at that period one of the Wesleyan brethren, who in consequence visited him, and found the chief and everything around him under a strict tapu. The scrupulous villain felt some feelings of compunction in not having demanded an utu for the accidental death of his father, by the explosion of gunpowder, which also set fire to the "Boyd," and he commanded his brother Te Puhi, on whom devolved the command of the tribe, to execute his last legacy, either to murder the missionaries and their families, or at least to strip them of everything they possessed; and with this pious codicil to his will, the sanctimonious chief departed in April 1825. On his death being made known by the continual discharge of ammunition and the usual weeping, wailing and gnashing of teeth, the missionaries were in great suspense and perturbation for a long time as to the result of the deliberations of the natives, who were for a long time canvassing for and against the putting into execution the last will of George,

THE "ENDEAVOUR."

but were contented in killing a fowl, belonging to the missionaries, the blood of which was accounted payment.

In July, 1824, the "Endeavour" schooner was forced into Wangaroa by stress of weather. Messrs. Tyerman and Bennet, deputies of the London Missionary Society to their stations at the South Seas, were passengers on board. On anchoring, the natives soon crowded themselves on board the small vessel. They commenced hostilities by acts of theft; and the accidental falling overboard of one of their number caused them to make an immediate attack on the crew and passengers, arming themselves with billets of wood, axes, and every convenient weapon, they could grasp. They rushed on their prey, whose resistance would have been the signal for their death. None of the Europeans at the time expected to escape.

While kept in this suspense, a ray of hope appeared in the approach of the missionary boat, which was brought to alongside. In this boat was one of the brethren and the chief George, who immediately exerted his power to restore tranquillity. In this case he made some amends for his former treachery – as to his exertions must be attributed the saving of the schooner and probably the people on board of her.

CAPTURE OF THE "MERCURY."

The vessel was immediately got under weigh, and arrived shortly after at Port Jackson.

On the 5th of March, 1835, the whaling brig, "Mercury," of London after leaving Port Jackson, put into Wangaroa. The vessel anchored close to the Pa of the Taratara. The decks were quickly thronged with natives, who behaved with great insolence, insulting the master and crew by the most exasperating expressions and conduct. The next day the natives commenced a quarrel, on which Captain Edwards had the anchor weighed the sails unfurled, and yards hoisted; a baffling wind canted her towards the rocks; a boat was lowered to veer the head of the vessel round, when the natives commenced a furious scuffle, and several of them were thrown overboard. The vessel might have escaped, had not the wind baffled the crew by blowing into the port, and driving the stern of the brig on the rocks, close to the shore. On this, the natives, who had assembled in numbers, got hold of ropes, tore away the dead lights, and by that opening got into the cabin; a general plunder followed, in which the stores, boxes, chests, casks of oil, and every moveable article, were thrown over the sides; the sails, rigging, &c., were cut away and underwent the same appropriation. The captain and crew made their

CARGO DAMAGED.

escape in two whale-boats. One of the Wesleyan brethren, who resided in the vicinity, hastened to the scene, and employed himself most usefully at this distressing time. He advised the master and crew to return to the vessel, as one of the natives in his boat said, the savages were satisfied with the plunder they had already obtained; but they could not be induced to do so. The scene on board was truly lamentable. The sails torn and damaged, the standing and running rigging cut away, hatches broken in pieces lying strewed about, the decks covered with oil, that composed the cargo, in which the plunderers had bathed their heads and bodies most copiously. The missionary told them, that the captain and men had gone to the Bay of Islands for assistance. On hearing this the plunder ceased, and the natives quitted the vessel, giving three cheers as they pushed off in their canoes. The missionary then proceeded to his settlement for a quadrant, as every thing had been stolen from the ship, during which absence, the natives again entered the vessel and plundered every article on board; on his return, he had to recommence insisting on their quitting the brig, on which the "Mercury" again put to sea, intending to make for the Bay of Islands; but the wind blew from the southward, which

THE SHIP WRECKED.

was a head wind, and it soon became a heavy gale; the sky gathered, the sea rose, and the prospect of making any part of the coast was remote. The vessel was now without quadrant, compass, or chart; neither hatches or deadlights were in her, the remains of her cargo adrift in the hold, and the brig damaged in the hull, having canted on the rocks. The most unpleasant night conceivable was experienced on board. The captain and crew had left for the Bay of Islands, and four Europeans, consisting of the missionary and three of the sailors only had the management of the brig, which, next day, drifted bodily from the land, on which she was abandoned.

On reaching the shore the Europeans narrowly escaped with their lives among the natives they fell in with, and were robbed of all they possessed. Their deliverance was effected by the accidental arrival of a friendly chief. The "Mercury" drifted near the North Cape, where she became a total wreck.

This additional outrage, conducted by the natives of Wangaroa, drew upon them the ill-will of the surrounding natives, who felt, if such proceedings were continued, it would be the means of driving from the coast, any vessels for the future willing to put in for refreshments.

TRIBE DISPERSED.

War was accordingly declared. The tribe was dispersed and broken by E'Ongi, in 1827, who entirely dispossessed them of the land they had proved themselves unworthy to occupy.

CHAPTER VI

CHAPTER VI.

Biographical notices of E'Ongi – His protection to the missionaries – His visit to Sidney and to England – Introduction to George the Fourth – His return – Battles at the Thames – East cape – North cape and Hokianga – His death – Apotheosis and exhumation – Character – Wangaroa, its desolation – Attempt of the natives at Hokianga to destroy the "Governor Macquarie" – Ship building in that river – Shipwreck of the Enterprise, Herald, New Zealander – Byron, and Lynx – Hostility of the natives – Their laws on shipwreck.

No name is so materially connected with the missionary transactions in New Zealand, for the first sixteen years of their existence, as that of E'Ongi.

To this chief must be attributed the stand the Church missionary labourers were enabled to make, and to E'Ongi is also owing the fall of the Wesleyan Mission at Wangaroa. There is no name so rife in the mouths of the people through-

E'ONGI VISITS SYDNEY.

out the Northern Island as that of this indomitable warrior. His possessions and those of his immediate relatives were of great extent, containing more inhabitants than has been known to belong to any previous chieftain family in the country. The number of warriors he was enabled to bring into the field were sufficient. with the preponderating quantity of muskets they possessed, to carry all before them. He was celebrated as the principal warrior of his time. He was remarkably sagacious, and in the domestic arts of carving and other mechanical contrivances he displayed uncommon ability. Had he been born with similar powers in a more civilized soil, he would have rapidly raised himself to distinction. In addition to his own possessions, he gained also large accessions of territory by several marriages, which added to the power and influence of this political chief.

In 1814, E'Ongi went to Port Jackson, and remained sufficient time to gratify his curiosity. He was introduced to the governor, who made him several useful and valuable presents, among others, a cow. He returned in that year, in company with the Reverend Samuel Marsden, together with his nephew, Tuatara, and his rival Korokoro.

180 VISITS ENGLAND.

In 1820, he visited England in company with his friend, Waikato, a wily chief, now living in the district of Tepuna, in the Bay of Islands. They arrived in London in the month of August, and were honoured by an audience of George the Fourth, from whom they received some attention and many presents of infinite value to the chiefs. The vast quantities of ammunition they saw displayed in the Tower and elsewhere in the British Metropolis, struck them with delight and astonishment. The forests of masts, disposed in various groups on the bosom of the Thames, were themes on which those savage warriors were never tired of expatiating.

Both the chiefs were attacked with an epidemic of the country, under which E'Ongi was so prostrated, as almost to sink under the weight of his disease. A comfortable passage was provided for them on board the "Speke" convict ship, bound to New South Wales, where their conduct at the cabin table was so studiously respectful as to draw forth the praises of the officers of the ship and the respectable portion of the passengers.

In Sydney, the Governor gave the gratified E'Ongi a military suit and other presents; most of these gifts were exchanged for muskets and ammunition of greater estimation, which

HIS VINDICTIVE SPIRIT.

alone possessed charms to his warlike mind. These possessions so far elated the chief, that he entertained serious thoughts of subduing the entire island, and raising himself to the chieftainship of the whole people. In Sydney he proposed that the Wesleyan Mission should be established among his friends and relations at Mokoia on the banks of the river Thames, which would have been an eligible situation; but a native informed E'Ongi, that one of his dear relatives had been killed and devoured near Witianga or Mercury Bay, at hearing which, the irritated chief declared war against the whole of the offenders. Their leader, named Hinake, who accompanied E'Ongi in the same vessel which took them all to New Zealand from Sydney, attempted to turn the ire of the dreaded warrior, by offering a payment or any satisfaction he would propose; but the incensed chief would not hear of anything less than the extermination of the entire tribe.

The hostility of E'Ongi is supposed to have been a feint, as he was anxious to show what his powerful supply of ammunition could do in the hands of his valiant followers. About three thousand warriors were collected, and he commenced his voyage. The battle was dreadful, no quarter being allowed; the chief Hinake

REVOLTING CANNIBALISM.

was slain by E'Ongi, who drank the blood as it gushed from the decollated head of the murdered warrior; the left eye was hastily scooped out and swallowed by the demoniac leader, that it might add to the refulgence of his own eye, when at his death it would be translated as a star in heaven.

One thousand of the enemy were slain, a fourth of whom were devoured the same day on the spot, where such disgusting scenes took place, so utterly revolting to humanity, that Waikato who accompanied E'Ongi, could not touch food for some time after, and on his return from this expedition, gave over going to war.

On the termination of hostilities, in which the tribe were all cut off, E'Ongi returned to the Bay of Islands, bringing a number of slaves to grace his triumph. Many of those doomed creatures were slaughtered and cooked, for the purpose of giving a hakari or feast to their friends. In this battle at Mokoia, Hinaki's people had but eight muskets, whereas E'Ongi's men were all fully supplied with ammunition. E'Ongi lost his son-in-law, and a brother of the latter, whose wife immediately hung herself, according to the custom of her people.

VARIOUS EXPEDITIONS.

Another expedition was undertaken to revenge the deaths of those people; and the insatiate chief is supposed to have destroyed fifteen hundred more of the tribes inhabiting the Thames. E'Ongi, on his return home, paid much attention to the forming of a fort, in case of being obliged to act in self-defence, of which at one period he had his fears. This pa was formed on a small promontory of land, which extends some distance in the lake of Morperi. This promontory is almost disjoined from the main land, and by a trifling excavation could be made an island. The fort was skilfully arranged, and the skill shown by E'Ongi in its construction, added greatly to his consequence among his countrymen, as a military commander. He spent most of the year 1823 in his war expeditions on the coast, during which he penetrated to Waiappu or the East Cape, vast numbers of whose natives were swept from existence. That place was the farthest south the chief personally besieged, but the troops under his command circumnavigated the island.

In 1825 he visited Wangaroa, to give battle to the resident tribes. Those also living at the North Cape, were made to feel the effects of his prowess in the same year.

ESCAPES IN BATTLE.

In Hokianga he also had several battles with the inhabitants of that river, who fought under Muriwai, a warlike chief, scarcely inferior to his invader. E'Ongi escaped death in these latter conflicts more than once. His helmet and bodily armour saved him several times; these he received from the King of England. At one time he was struck down by Muriwai, who broke his talc meri on the armour of the prostrate chief, whose followers coming up, bore him off the field.

The battle of Kaipara in 1826, reunited those hostile chiefs, who joined their forces, and those of the northern tribes in battling with the western natives, who were by treachery, as has been related, almost entirely exterminated.

Muriwai lost two promising sons in this battle, and E'Ongi was deprived of his eldest; their bodies were devoured by the Kaipara people, and their heads preserved as trophies.

The conduct of E'Ongi and his warriors, in these numerous battles, was wholly diabolical; many of the victors killed themselves by gluttony in devouring human flesh, and the dreadful scenes enacted were often sickening and repulsive to those engaged in these wars.

In the year 1825, this successful warrior went to reside at the Waimate, from which he was

HIS MISFORTUNES.

soon after driven by domestic misfortunes. His son-in-law was detected in an illicit intercourse with one of his favourite wives. On being discovered, the woman hung herself, the young chief shot himself, and another of E'Ongi's wives was shot by the friends of the former wife, as payment or satisfaction for her untimely end. Others again were murdered as satisfaction for the last piece of butchery, and misery and horror raged among them. E'Ongi was determined to leave a place which reminded him of transactions that nearly unhinged his mind. He accordingly mustered a large force, and again directed his course to Wangaroa, where he drove away the tribes that had destroyed the "Boyd," "Mercury," &c.

At this period E'Ongi felt a further bereavement in the loss of his wife Turi, whose heroism and military abilities were so invaluable, that notwithstanding she was blind, her husband never undertook an expedition without being assisted by her advice and company. E'Ongi pursued the Kaitangatas' or men eating tribes, and destroyed great numbers of them. The ovens were crowded with human victims, and the places around presented dreadful scenes of carnage. All parts of the human body, mangled, were strewed about in every direction; the suck-

RECEIVES A WOUND

ling infant, the aged mother, the young female and the venerable parent, all lay in undistin-guishable masses, and clotted gore in deep puddles, bedabbled the adjacent paths.

E'Ongi pursued the enemy as far as Hunahuna, a village near the Maunga muka. At this place, which is a bush, the flying enemy made a stand. E'Ongi who fought after the native fashion, namely, by lurking behind the trunks of trees, stepped on one side to discharge his musket, when a ball struck him, supposed to have been discharged by one of his own party; it broke his collar bone, passed in an oblique direction through his right breast, and came out a little below his shoulder blade, close to the spine. This wound stopped his career. Most of the surgeons in the different whale ships that entered the Bay of Islands examined it, but found his case past all remedy. The wound never closed, and the whistling noise caused by the air in entering, afforded amusement to the chief.

Fifteen months after this mishap, E'Ongi went to reside at Panieu. He was reduced almost to a skeleton. Several chiefs from Hokianga went to pay him a visit. On seeing the state to which he was reduced, they burst into tears, and said they were afraid of his approaching

THAT OCCASIONS HIS DEATH.

death. He replied he was never better in his life.

After staying a few days, they were on the point of leaving him, and returning to their settlements, when E'Ongi was suddenly taken with spasms. Perceiving his approaching end, he said, "I shall now die, but not to-day." He called for his children, and said, "ka ora koutu," you will be well.

His muskets, battle axes, meris', coats of mail, &c. he bequeathed to his sons; he spoke of the tribes who would probably be kind to his children after his disease, and said "kowai ma te hia kai mai ki a koutu? kaore!" Who will wish to swallow you all up? none!

His last moments were applied in strenuously exhorting his followers to be valiant, and defend themselves against the numerous enemies they had provoked, and who would take advantage of his departure to the reinga or world of spirits, adding he wanted no other payment for his death. He besought them to allow the church missionaries to subsist in peace, for they had ever acted for the best. His dying lips were employed in repeating the words "kia toa! kia toa! be courageous, be valiant." The demise of this indomitable warrior was awaited in fear and trembling by many of his nearest friends, who were fearful

HONOURS PAID TO THE DEAD.

the Hokianga chiefs would kill them, as sacrifices to accompany their departed master's spirit on his road to the regions of the dead; but Patuone, a well known chief of that place, bade them dismiss their fears. The children of the illustrious defunct, were also fearful of being surprised by an enemy; and were induced to place the body in a wai tapu the day after his death, an especial insult to the tupapaku or corpse of a native chief, on which Patuone said, "How is it I have only just become acquainted with those, who are unworthy of an illustrious father, and who wish to bury him alive?" Many days were, therefore, spent in all the honours these people confer on the illustrious dead.

The village resounded with the discordant tangi, and streams of blood were shed with the aid of the muscle shell. Innumerable addresses and speeches were made on the merits of the deceased. Dancing, and singing in mournful cadences ensued, while the chants of the Pihe descriptive of the valiant enterprizes of the magnanimous defunct, with continual discharges of artillery, added to the solemnity of the scene.

E'Ongi in battle was an insatiable destroyer: to wade in the blood of his enemies afforded him peculiar delight. War and all its cannibal hor-

HIS CHARACTER.

rors was his pastime, and on obtaining from England and Sydney the quantities of ammunition which were afterwards employed against those whom he chose to account as foes, he returned, determined to fight his way for supremacy over his brother chiefs. Yet during peace, few persons could exhibit milder habits. His affection to his relatives was unbounded. On the death of his brother Kaingaroa, he more than once attempted to hang himself, but was prevented.

Many insults were digested by this chief from the intemperate behaviour of Europeans on board ships that put into the Bay of Islands, when scarce a civilised man possessing the like power would have passed over similar conduct.

His figure was slight, and his countenance, though fully tattoed, handsome; his natural disposition was mild and apparently inoffensive. He appeared before Europeans without any ostentation or pretensions to pride; and on board ship, when his attendant followers would rush into the cabin and devour every thing that lay before them, this commander would remain on deck, often employing himself in the art of carving, in which he was a proficient, or playing with little children. On meeting with a relative, or bidding adieu, this chief would lament with the usual

CHIEFS LESS WARLIKE.

bitter feelings of his people; and on parting with his favourite son, who was leaving for Port Jackson, the heart of the affectionate parent appeared almost broken.

E'Ongi died on the 6th of March, 1828. The last haihunga, or exhumation of his bones, in honour of his memory, took place for the third time in April 1830.

Since his death, the warlike character of the northern natives has undergone a thorough change. No chief has now the power of gathering as many hundreds as E'Ongi could command thousands. The native quarrels to the northward at the present day, are happily of no importance; hostilities are smothered, and truces patched up that would have caused such irascible warriors as E'Ongi, Korokoro, Muriwai, Pomare, Tarra, Parra, and a host of similar kindred spirits to have expired with shame and vexation. This feeling is principally caused by the country becoming more Europeanized, if the term is admissible, as scarce a district is now inhabited by the natives, but one or more of the new comers are located.

In Hokianga, the Bay of Islands, Cloudy Bay, and the south west harbours, many hundreds of Englishmen are become identified with the country.

DESERTED TERRITORIES.

In 1835, I visited Wangaroa, the scene of the last battle of E'Ongi; there was nothing locally to interest me, save the recollections that crowded on my memory of the transactions in former times. The harbour is the most beautifully romantic that can well be conceived. There were traces of former European inhabitants distinguishable by poles or branches of trees thrown carelessly across the gullies and streamlets, serving as bridges.

At Wesley Dale, the old station of the missionaries, a stack of bricks, the remnant of a chimney, alone remained to show what the place had been appropriated for. Noble tracts of land which had lain uncultivated for many years past were continually presented, and the then very scanty portion of the inhabitants, contrasted in a melancholy degree with the formerly numerous people of the soil. Several fortifications met our view which had been occupied by the conquerors under E'Ongi, but they in turn had been destroyed in a similar manner to the former inhabitants. In those parts that had been most frequented it was now laborious to pass, from the quantity of wild overgrown turnips, fern, kaikatoa, and brushwood. All these parts had been the gardens of the destroyers of the "Boyd," who were at the time of my visit, either

THE "MACQUARIE."

killed or dispersed, principally in slavery at a distance from the soil of their birth.

For many miles the pleasing sight of a native residence does not meet the eye, in parts that were thickly inhabited. All the adjacent villages, even to the North Cape, show the same depopulating effects of war, and are equally wanting in the habitations of man, or the cultivation of the fertile land.

The natives of Wangaroa have not been the only adverse tribes who have attempted or succeeded in taking shipping on entering the harbours.

The first vessel that ever entered the Hokianga, was commanded by the late Captain Kent, whose long and continued residences in various parts on the west coast of the island, made him as favourite a foreigner as ever stationed himself among these people.

On his vessel, the "Governor Macquarie," casting anchor in the newly discovered river, the natives nocked on board in such numbers, that any room to move was impossible. Wainga, my levitical friend, was at that period, as were also the natives of that river, as wild and incorrigible a race of cannibals as ever feasted on a friend without salt, or any other condiment. As a priest and medical man (the two professions

MEDICAL PRESCRIPTION.

merge in one in New Zealand) he recommended to himself and friends a change of diet, and pitched upon Kent and his crew for the purpose. Mr. Martin, who was chief officer of the vessel, and has been since for many years pilot of the river, had formed an intimacy with Wainga's daughter, who informed the Europeans of the intentions of her friends, who had proposed murdering them and taking the ship on the following day.

These crafty people tried, by every blandishment and apparently hospitable manners, to lull their visitors into security; but at dusk Kent placed a gun on each side the deck, with their breaches against the taffrail, filled with grape shot, that should an attempt be made to take the vessel, the actors should smart for their temerity. As the period approached, the master and mate alone remained upon the deck, close to the guns, prepared to defend themselves.

The natives, who had crowded on deck, suddenly commenced hostilities by stripping off their only garment, dancing naked, and yelling the war dance; on which the daughter rushed before the guns, and called out aloud to the hostile natives that their intentions were discovered; she implored them to fly instantly, or not one would escape death by the discharge of na purepo, or the great

PEACE PROCLAIMED,

guns. The terrified assailants cleared off instantly by jumping into the river and swimming on shore, leaving their garments behind.

Wainga was in the act of imitating the speedy flight of his comrades, when he was captured by his daughter, who caught this prudent general by the heel.

The old man was treated kindly, for the service his daughter had performed, and it was agreed the natives should scrape flax for the white people, and that the mate should return and reside on shore. These arrangements subsequently took place, and some years after the lady underwent the ceremony of baptism, and has since figured as "Kitty;" she was married to the pilot whom she had been instrumental in preserving. In a short time, as is the wont of native females, she threw aside the customs of her people, said, and acted like Ruth, "Your people shall become my people, your God, my God," &c.

Soon after the occupation of Hokianga, it became the resort of Europeans from Port Jackson, whose customs and habits gradually wrought a great change in the tribes that occupied the villages on the banks of the tributary streams. The largest vessels that have yet been built in

LOSS OF THE "ENTERPRISE. '

New Zealand, have been laid down at Hokianga, and, perhaps with scarce an exception, all have been very unfortunate.

The "Enterprise" schooner was the first vessel built in Hokianga, and was spoken well of. She was put together with timbers of the Puriri and Rata trees, and planked with the Kouri. It is supposed, in running for the river on the night of the 3rd May, 1828, from Sydney the river of Wangape, to the northward, was mistaken for that of Hokianga, as the coast between the two streams has some resemblance from sea. The first knowledge of her loss was ascertained by some letters having floated on shore, directed to the European residents, and a few days after, parts of the wreck were discovered some few miles to the northward on the rocky strand; the bodies of the unfortunate people were also found, and decently interred.

Within the same hour that the disastrous news of the "Enterprise" was made known, information was also received by the Europeans of the loss of the "Herald," a vessel built in the Bay of Islands for the Church Missionary Society, which had occurred that morning on a shoal within the harbour. Mr. Fairburn, one of the catechists of the society, who was in the vessel, fully expected that the natives residing among the Europeans

"HERALD," "NEW ZEALANDER."

would at least treat them with civility; but he had scarcely got on shore when a native forcibly robbed him of his shirt. At night the seamen on board the vessel repeatedly hailed the natives on shore to make a fire to perceive if the vessel drifted, but the latter refused, delighted at the promised booty provided for them on the morrow by Araitehuru, the atua of the river.

At earliest dawn they seized upon the vessel, and stripped it of everything portable, leaving; only the damaged hull, to which they attempted to set fire, but the flood tide prevented their intentions.

The next vessel laid down at the Horeke settlement was a brig of two hundred tons, called the "New Zealander." This vessel was so beautifully modelled for sailing, that her first trip to Sydney was performed in less than six days, the quickest passage recorded. This vessel was employed in after years in various commercial pursuits, and was accounted the swiftest sailer out of Port Jackson. At one period she was seized as a foreign vessel in Sydney cove, and, after much discussion, she was deprived the privilege of sailing between British ports. In 1836, she had made a fair voyage on the coast of New Zealand in purchasing provisions from the natives, for the

"BYRON," "SIR G. MURRAY."

market at Sydney, when she was totally wrecked in a calm, off the Maihia, a deep bight, formed by the Table Cape, or Nukutourua, her anchor parting from the chain cable, which was cut in two by chafing against the rocks, on the same spot that the brig "Byron" in 1833 commanded by the Captain Kent, before mentioned, was wrecked in a sudden gale, that parted this latter vessel from her moorings, and she drifted on the rocks. The vessel was no sooner discovered to be adrift, than the natives launched their canoes and commenced stripping her, and she was burnt to the water's edge. The Europeans were saved, by clinging for protection to Werowero, the chief of the settlement, who attempted, but in vain, to calm the wanton fury of the natives.

The "Sir George Murray" was the next vessel laid down at the Horeke in Hokianga, by Messrs. Raine and Ramsey, merchants, settled in Sydney, to whom the settlement also belonged. The size of this vessel was nearly four hundred tons; the model equally beautiful as that of the brig. Both these vessels were built of the Puriri and Rata, the spars were Kouri, and at the end of some years were found to be as faultless as the day they were first stepped; the latter vessel, it is believed, is no longer existing.

Three smaller vessels were built at the same

LOSS OF THE "LYNX."

river, but they all shared a similar fate to their precursors, and were in each instance seized and burnt by the natives.

It is a fixed native law, should a vessel be cast adrift from her moorings, she becomes the property of the people in whose vicinity she may be wrecked; canoes, or similar native vessels, or boats belonging to Europeans become the property of the finder; salvage is out of the question. The native laws of jetsam and flotsam sadly want revision.

In addition to the above vessels, wrecked on the coast of New Zealand, that of the whaling bark "Lynx" must be added, which was lost in the dangerous straits of Foveaux, that divide the Island of Victoria from Stewart's Island, on the 17th December, 1837. The original register of the "Lynx" had been lost, but the second form of that important document was dated nearly one hundred years since; the vessel was built in Bengal, of the incomparable teak wood.

CHAPTER VII

CHAPTER VII.

Land purchased by European settlers – On the want of a local government – Introduction of commercial arts – Stability of purchases of land – Immorality and false claims of many shipmasters – European claims that are regarded as futile among the natives – Precautions necessary to be observed in purchasing land – The author's purchase of land at Taiaruru Kororarika and the district of Waitangi – Variety of claimants – Services rendered by the missionaries – Letter from some chiefs to William the Fourth – Arrival of the British resident – Choice of a national standard – Conduct of a portion of the natives to the resident – The Baron de Thierry – His arrival.

Land may be purchased in large tracts, about various parts of New Zealand, and should the British government think proper to colonize the country, the principal half of the soil being unowned, would fall to the state.

The missionary families all possess various private farms of some extent. The allotments pur-

PURCHASES OF LAND,

chased by the trading part of the British community, is of infinitely less agricultural importance and extent. The native landholders, in such parts of the country as I have visited, continually requested me to purchase land among them, and also bade me remember to invite settlers on the soil, invariably asserting, that the only method to prevent the native population from unceasingly warring against each other, was for Europeans to reside among them, and in consequence raise new wants among the tribes, and by that method, employ their minds and bodies, especially for the scraping of flax and cultivating the neglected soil.

In Wangaroa, when the "Buffalo" store ship was there, in 1835, taking in a cargo of pine spars for the British government, scarce an European resided at that part. At the present moment, almost all the land has been purchased by Europeans. Messrs. Shepherd and Kemp missionary catechists, possess a large proportion of timber land, including some miles of country. Several commercial Europeans have also purchased larger farms in this vicinity, than elsewhere. At Kaipara, Maungakahia, where in 1833, a white man was accounted a lusus naturae, Europeans have purchased large tracts of sand. Mr. Baker, a catechist has some thou-

BY MISSIONARIES AND TRADERS.

sands of acres in the latter beautiful valley. To the northward, the missionaries and traders have been similarly careful in justly purchasing and providing for their respective families, many miles of water frontages, forest, plain, hill, and valley. Extensive allotments on the banks of the Bay of Islands and Hokianga belong to the above two portions of the European community, and large tracts between the above ports, centrically situated, belong almost exclusively to the Church missionary families. To particularize separate districts would be uninteresting to the general reader, suffice it to observe that scarcely a river flows on either coast of the Northern Island whose banks are not possessed, in part, by our countrymen, who sadly want a paternal government to keep them in decent order.

Partial colonization daily increases in despite of the attempts which well-intentioned philanthropists towards the aborigines, have made to defer it, and the British government have already a number of loyal subjects in embryo, ready to swear allegiance and dutiful obedience to her Majesty, whenever her Imperial pleasure confers on them the gracious recognition.

Land once purchased, after the approved native method, is tapued to the purchaser and becomes his property. The native landholder,

STABILITY OF PURCHASES.

in demanding a price, generally reminds the buyer, (to enhance the value of the soil and increase the price,) that the property, he is about to dispose of, descends to the children of the purchaser; that the articles of the trade or money, (as the case may be for the purchase,) soon evaporates, and early after, nothing is left to the seller; but the land is always in existence, and in the hands of an European invariably improves. The natives are often struck with astonishment at the many little improvements in agriculture, brought into use by new comers, such as hand-mills, wells, and many ingenious trifles, saving time and manual labour.

Mr. Stack, a truly zealous missionary, formerly attached to the Wesleyan Society, on viewing the missionary premises, in Wangaroa, some years after he, together with his brethren, had been driven from the place, was requested by some resident natives to return once more and karakia, (preach,) to them on eternal things, on the site of the old settlement. Mr. S. enquired if, after having been driven from the land, it would not be necessary to repurchase the soil. The question excited some surprise in the natives, who distinctly gave him to understand, that land, once purchased fairly, could not be taken away by the natives.

FOLLY OF SHIPMASTERS.

Several masters, commanding whaling ships, have often put into the Bay of Islands and other parts of New Zealand, and have cohabited with the native chief women belonging to the villages opposite to which they have anchored. These men have occasionally made what, in the country, may be termed expensive presents of ammunition and clothing to the parents and relatives of their female friends, and in return, have expected they had the power of demanding, from the friendly chiefs, such portions of territory as they might, in the plenitude of their wisdom, require: this was a mistake, as was also the supposition, that the simple assent of the chief was only necessary to transfer the property of their children and retainers without the actual purchase of the land so assigned, and consultation of each person interested in the property. The presents above mentioned, however costly, are regarded by the New Zealanders as mementos indicative of the folly of the donors in favour of their women, and who would have been infinitely more respected, even by the receivers, had they been less reckless of the property, in many cases, belonging to the shipowners, and put on board, for refreshing the crew during the voyage, though thus expended in moments of drunkenness and infatuation.

ILLEGAL CLAIMS.

Many such cases have occurred by men, void of honour and understanding, who have urged claims to property, after being respectably settled by European purchasers for years, on the fancied right as having, on such spots, many years previously, given loose to drunken riot, and the lowest dissipation, with company similarly disposed in taste and sentiments.

Land has been presented by a chief to a child, on the latter being named after him; thus, Mr. J. Kemp, catechist, at the Keri Keri, surnamed one of his sons after the celebrated chief, Titore, and a large piece of land was presented from the latter to the former as acknowledgment for such European complaisance; but the infant dying early after, the land was taken back by its original owner. This custom is prevalent in the Polynesian islands; thus a son of Mr. Charles Barff, a respectable and useful missionary, in the island of Huaheine, for the London Missionary Society, also named a son after a chief named Pui, with similar results. But these claims are not binding in New Zealand, as the whites are supposed to possess many riches, and it is regarded as an unworthy act, to deprive the inferior members of a chief family of a share of the payment that would accrue to them in case the land was sold; the

WHALE FISHERY.

honour of thus giving the land away solely belongs to the chief, who, however he may be applauded by Europeans for the deed, is looked upon as a kuori, or fool, by the natives.

The Island of Victoria is peopled with a large number of Europeans, who have settled in the various bays frequented by the black whale, (balaena mysticaetus.)

These gangs, as they are called, have been inhabitants of the country for many years past, and procure a great quantity of oil and whalebone per annum, The fishery, which is purchased by the merchants of Sydney, in November last, (1837,) yielded a very lucrative season. These Europeans intermarry with the native women, and an intercourse, which morality cannot favour for a moment, has, in some degree, detached the natives from the wandering life they have hitherto led. Perhaps, not less than one hundred and fifty sail of ships of various tonnage, lie on and off the coasts of New Zealand, in the months from April to November, and afterwards frequent the middle ground, as are termed the seas between New Holland and the coast of New Zealand.

The requisite method in purchasing of land, is to request the principal chiefs of the district, to speak with his friends and the claimants of

METHOD OF PURCHASING

the extent and situation of the allotment you may require, stating the amount you propose giving, and in no case overrating the quantity or quality of the property, or value of the cash you may feel disposed to give. The chief will acquaint his tribe of your proposals, and after discussing the matter, if all the parties, who are interested, feel agreeable to dispose of it, the chief will send for you, as it will be absolutely necessary the place you may have chosen should be visited and the limits well-determined, accompanied by native and European witnesses. After such visit, during which they mark down the boundaries, you return with the proprietors to your dwelling, and produce what was promised to be given. If the amount is approved of, the title deeds are drawn out carefully; the boundaries, payment and claimants are particularly described. The instrument is signed by each claimant, writing his name or making a facsimile of his moko or tattooing on his countenance. The native witnesses do the same, and the Englishmen follow the example. The utu or payment is delivered to the principal chief, who distributes to each claimant what he imagines he may be entitled to, and sometimes gives a trifling share to such strangers as may be present.

FREEHOLD PROPERTY.

It often happens that the liberality of the chief consumes the entire payment, nothing remaining for himself, in that case; but few purchasers would fail in rewarding his self-denial. To adopt the method most pleasing to the generality of natives, I invariably added a quantity of trifles that each slave of the various claimants might also partake.

Some years since I was passing a beech in my boat, on which a number of persons had assembled. A chief among the crowd recognised me, and called to me by name to pull in-shore; I did so, and found some natives whom I well knew, disposing of some land to an English gentleman. As I was accidentally on the spot, I received a trifling portion of the payment, as it appeared I possessed a claim, in having passed at the time the land was being disposed of. My four boatmen also got a trifling remuneration for a similar reason.

Two several settlements I purchased of the natives, by my own previous application. Three smaller settlements I also purchased at different periods, and against my inclination at the time. I made the latter purchases, principally to avoid the continual annoyance of the native owners, having slept in their villages and incautiously said, in answer to their continued request to do

COGIZABLE CLAIMS

so, that I would probably purchase a farm among them.

In my first purchase at Taiaruru, and the second of Parramatta on the Kororarika, I had much trouble and annoyance, and relate the attending circumstances, as they will show, the many inconveniences the earlier settler is sure to feel in pioneering the road for those who will more happily succeed him in his path.

In both the above settlements there were no end to claimants, who founded their titles on the most whimsical and frivolous pretensions.

The title deeds I had drawn out, were copied exactly from William Penn's document, with the North American Indians. One party demanded payment for having caught their fish in the bay, for many previous years; and had dried the said fish on the beech. Another party had a claim to prefer, as being related to a young chief, who in climbing a tree for the fruit of the karaka, had fallen from a bough; and escaped, nearly breaking his neck. An impudent fellow forwarded his claim for an "utu," pretending to have slept at different periods in an adjoining bush on the estate, and proceeded to cite his witnesses; but they were

LAND PURCHASES.

too intent in putting forth their own pretensions to pay particular attention to this somniferous demand.

The above parties were no sooner satisfied, than a new company arrived on the land, under a chief named Kapotai; they were a wild bush looking race. These people were enemies to the former claimants, and the speeches towards each other were so insulting, that I expected nothing less than a battle would take place; and as discretion is said to be the better part of valour, I began to look out for a convenient eyrie, as I felt no inclination to be otherwise than neutral.

Luckily for me, the courage of the head chief of the first party was probably preserved for some more valuable occasion. He quietly received a quantity of contemptuous language, until the name of his wife was mentioned in a tone of biting sarcasm; he then hastily stepped towards the speaker, and for the moment, looked and probably thought like a chief; but the hectic flush on his face, caused by the insult, rapidly passed away, and he appeared to sink into apathy.

He then beckoned his people to man the canoes, following them himself, saying "E'ha ti

DIFFICULTIES EXPERIENCED

ou te oki," what care I for what you say? departed with his share of my property.

Kapotai and I soon arranged matters: he distributed not a few native anathemas on the party who had just quitted us; adding, that in any dealings with them, the Taniwoa (or native Neptune) himself, would naturally be taken in, much less a booby (moio) like myself; (I inclined my head for the compliment) and if I wanted to do what was just, I ought to deal with good men only, pointing to his friend, the venerable Haututu and himself. I told him I had occasion to admire his candour, as the flatterer, I perceived, formed no part of his character; and concluded by adding, that doubtless he would improve upon acquaintance.

If my words had no effect on him, my property had, as he, together with Autitu and his son Kokowai, did the deed (that is, signed it).

This latter party were, and still are, if they have escaped the ovens of their enemies, the roughest beings I had yet seen in the land; and their countenances, from long habitual practice in studying to frighten their enemies, had become so abominably fiendish, that a glance, indicative of the tender passion from Kapotai, would have frightened a hyaena into hysterics.

IN THE PURCHASE OF LAND.

The second purchase was still more annoying, at Parramata on the Kororarika.

This settlement, similar to my other purchases was wholly unoccupied by the natives. In front was a large Waitapu or burying ground, in which had been deposited whole generations, (ancestors of the neighbouring claimants), from time immemorial.

I first purchased this land from a chief named Heke, heir at law, and nearest surviving relative of Toi tapu or holy Toi, a venerable priest and the most graceless old gentleman, that ever put on sacerdotal garment, or afterwards relieved himself of the incumbrance. Any reader acquainted with the Church Missionary transactions in New Zealand, will easily call to mind this formerly pragmatical personage, who had been deceased but two months previously.

This old cannibal's affections had, until within a few years of his demise, been so various, that he would greedily have devoured his boon companion; and yet at the same moment lament with tears, the loss of his friendship; though his person (in a well cooked state) was present before him. I gave his heir apparent, and nephews' sons of the chief Korokoro the payment that was demanded for the place, about nine and a half acres of waterside frontage. I had just satisfied

FRESH PAYMENTS DEMANDED

them, when three surviving wives of the deceased, came for an utu; luckily the old ladies were not included in the purchase. I paid them without any disputation, and also an old slave handmaid of the deceased polygamist. I then requested to know if any more of his ladies were in being; but though at least a dozen were counted out by name before me on the tips of the speaker's fingers, yet they had all preceded Toi in his journey to the Reinga.

This mighty affair was finished, when the chief Moka, a testy wilful pugnacious exotic, demanded his share for having capered in a war dance after the battle on the beech in 1830. On my pointing to his hip in which he had received a musket ball, and consequently limped, saying he could not dance in the lame state he then was, another payment was demanded for reminding him of his misfortune; but on this head I got a coup de grace, by applauding the furious valour that procured his mishap; this softened the vain chief, and he was satisfied with the remuneration thus easily obtained.

Afterwards a new and sweeping demand was made by no less perhaps than two hundred and fifty persons, who also demanded "utu" for the wai tapu, in which their relations and friends had been buried, or it was intended they ought

AND NEW CLAIMS INSTITUTED.

to have been, had they not been killed and eaten elsewhere. First came Rewa, his brothers, and their generation; Tarria, the largest man in the Pacific islands an ogre to the life, his son Akiro a friendly man and their followers, including their ancestry, present generation, and early posterity; even all these people I satisfied, some English shipmasters being witnesses to the payment.

I now felicitated myself, on having concluded my purchase, in which every person had expressed satisfaction for his share of the payment, when the chief Titore returned from the war at Tauranga. This personage, inflated by having led the troops in the late contest, though beaten in every action, was furious or pretended to be so, that he had not seen the payment for the land, though he admitted his claim solely arose from his being my neighbour, holding a dignified rank. This "great Captain" was so troublesome, that I was induced to send to Paihia, and request the Reverend Henry Williams to favour me with his interposition; he kindly acceded to my request – made Titore sensible that he had not the slightest claim to the land, except what a distempered imagination caused him to imagine, namely that Europeans would succumb to his fiat like the natives. However I made Titore a present, but my asto-

NEW DIFFICULTIES.

nishment was not a little increased on the reverend gentleman informing me, that he was sorry to add, the entire land I had purchased belonged to himself, that the old proprietor from whom he had received it, long previous to his death, in presence of his relations and friends, (many of whom were then present and assented to the fact) had received it from an ancient race of owners, his ancestors. Mr. Williams added, that he had secured the land to himself by the native law of planting on the ground, and reaping the produce when mature, but generously proposed to give up his claim to me (in consideration of the expense and trouble I had undergone) and agreed to receive a native payment in acknowledgment of his claim, which I assented to, on the spot with pleasure.

I applied ever after to this gentleman, or to his brother the Reverend W. Williams, previously to purchasing land; the valuable knowledge they possessed of the innumerable native laws and the tribes into which the people were divided, being of essential service to both natives and Europeans. On every application I made to either of those gentlemen, they assisted me with the kindest promptitude; and as their presence was often required on the allotments some few miles distant, notwithstanding

NATIVE TRAVELLERS.

being subjected to much inconvenience, they invariably complied with cheerfulness.

Much competition having arisen among Europeans for the purchase of land, it has raised the value in proportion among the native proprietors, especially to the northward; and every unpurchased part of the Bay of Islands will be found fully as expensive, as in any populous city in Europe.

The natives, within the last five years are fully alive to the value of land from the daily increasing intercourse with foreigners, and travelling themselves, as they do throughout every part of their country, besides frequently visiting the Australian Colonies, Great Britain, the United States, and in several instances the Continent of Europe. I have met with many New Zealanders in the various whaling parts of North America. I saw a native of the East Cape on board the United States frigate, "Macedonian" at New York, previously to her sailing on the South Sea exploring and surveying expedition; this man stated himself to be a superior chief in his own country; but I knew his master and the tribe in which he was a slave. He begged I would be silent on the subject, as he did not wish to be lowered in the estimation of the white men.

GRAFTING FOREIGN CUSTOMS.

These native travellers are held in much repute by their countrymen, as they give a lively description of what they see or hear abroad; and as may be expected from a people who are naturally inventive geniuses, their tales do not lose by repetition.

A single proof of the notice taken by these people of foreign customs shall suffice.

My boat has been more than once stopt from further progress up a river, the reason assigned being, that the natives were aware that European vessels paid pilotage in Port Jackson to men incorporated as pilots, whether their presence was required or not, and they thought their right equally just. A committee of chiefs took place in Hokianga, some time back, to debate whether they should demand anchorage money or not from shipping, and as it is, a much higher price is demanded, and paid, for water, than is required from vessels in the colonial ports, where human and mechanical labour with large sums have been expended in transporting the invaluable fluid to the harbour from interior districts, as at the port of Sydney.

I was absent the greater part of 1836 from the Bay of Islands; and on my return, the altera-

DECLENSION OF MORALITY.

tion in the character of the natives on the Kororarika, which is opposite to Paihia, the Church Missionary Station, astonished me.

Several of the gentlemen attached to the mission enquired of me, if I did not perceive the fact of the increase of crime, and decline of civilization among those people, and of the missionary instruction introduced. It was too apparent; a petition had been consequently drawn out, directing the attention of the British Government to the subject, of the lawless conduct of runaway seamen, and prisoners from the colonies; this was received in England last year by the Government. (Note 11.)

On the arrival of Captain La Place in the, French Corvette "la Favorite," in October 1831, a report was industriously circulated in Sydney and the Bay of Islands, that this enterprising commander intended to take possession of the country in the name of his august master, Louis Philippe. This fabulous report gave rise to some heroics in the colonial papers, which would have induced a stranger to that press, to imagine a Mars had turned editor, assisted by an Achiles, as printer's devil. It occasioned a few of the native chiefs to hold conferences, which resulted in their requesting the missionaries to address a latter to his late Majesty

LETTER TO WILLIAM THE FOURTH.

William the Fourth at their dictation, it ran thus,

"King William. We the chiefs of New Zealand assembled at this place, called the Keri keri, write to thee, for we hear thou art the great chief on the other side the water, since the many ships that come to our land belong to thee.

"We are a people without possessions; we have nothing but timber, pork, flax and potatoes. We sell these things, however, to your people, and then we see the property of Europeans; it is only thy land which is liberal towards us; from thee come also the missionaries, who teach us to believe in Jehovah God, and in Jesus Christ his Son.

"We hear that the tribe of Marion is at hand, coming to take away our land. We therefore pray thee to become our guardian and friend of these Islands, lest the tearing of other tribes should come near to us, and lest strangers should come to take away our land; and if any of thy people should be troublesome and vicious towards us, for some people are living here who have runaway from ships, we pray thee to be angry with them, that they may be obedient, lest the anger of the people of this land fall upon them. This letter is from us, from the chiefs of the natives of New Zealand."

ARRIVAL OF THE RESIDENT. 219

"Signed, 'Warrerahi,' 'Rewa,' 'Patuone,' 'Nene,' 'Kekeao,' 'Titore,' 'Ripi,' 'Temorenga,' 'Hara,' 'Atuahaere,' 'Moitara,' 'Matangi,' 'Taunui.' "

On the 5th of May 1833 H. M. S. "Imogine" arrived in the Bay, with James Busby Esq., as passenger, bearing the appointment of British Resident in the country.

On the 17th he landed, in company with the officers of the ship, and was received by the natives at landing with their usual welcome of the dance, which has been observed, is equally significant of peace or war.

The natives felt anxious to know the tenor of Mr. Busby's commission among them. Though they often express their wish that soldiers might be landed for the protection of British interests, and to preserve peace among themselves, they nevertheless, with their usual fickleness, or perhaps maturer reflection on their present absolute power, which would depart from them, desire the contrary. The letter of Lord Goderich was read to them in the native language the pleasing addition of blankets and tobacco was distributed to the principal chiefs, and a mess of boiled flour followed in succession – a dish worthy of a prince, in the estimation of these primitive people.

NATIONAL STANDARD CHOSEN.

Another era in the politics of the country took place some time after. H.M.S. Alligator, Captain Lambert brought to the Bay of Islands, a number of flags for the inspection of the chiefs, that they might choose a national standard for their country, whereby vessels built in their ports might roam the ocean without molestation or exposure to the hazard of being taken as unnational craft. The standard then selected has been made use of, and acknowledged as under English protection. It is a St. George's Cross, red on a white ground, with a smaller cross, in a fourth of the surface of the flag with four small white stars, on a blue ground.

On the standard being hoisted, it was received with loud acclamations by the Europeans and natives assembled; the latter had an opportunity of speechifying which is seldom neglected by these people.

Mr. Busby was gratified with a salary of five hundred pounds per annum, which sum was taxed on the Colony of New South Wales, and an additional sum of two hundred and fifty pounds per annum to be expended in presents for the native chiefs. Those presents would have enabled the donor, not only to command the respect and affection of those uncivilized sons, but they would have formed a body around

ATTACK ON THE RESIDENCY.

him, ready to act on the command of a Resident of the British Government; but the contrary was the case; unversed in the language, customs., or habits of the people – retiring within himself, avoiding the respectable class of Europeans, and choosing a locality distant from the natives and traders, the character of Mr. Busby as a British Consul was early lost; and the native tribes on whose land he took up his residence, treated him with indifference, and at a later period with insults. The conduct of these unruly tribes among whom the Resident located himself, was disgraceful. European mechanics were scarcely to be procured to finish the official residence, exposed to the bad conduct of these natives.

Such trifling particulars would be unworthy of notice, did they respect any other person than the sole civil officer bearing a commission in the service of a great nation. These unworthy proceedings nearly attained their height on the night of the 1st of May, 1834, just one year after Mr. Busby's residence in the country, when a chief, named Reti, of the Waitangi, tribe, made an attack on Mr. Busby's premises, robbed the house occupied by the European servants adjoining, and discharged several loaded muskets. Mr. Busby, who hastened to the protection of his family was in the act of leaving the

FRESH INSULTS

door of his residence, when a musket was discharged, and the ball, striking against the door sill, split the wood and the splinters grazed his face, causing the blood to follow. The ruffians soon retreated with their booty.

The chiefs were assembled some time after. They made many speeches with the usual intention of never carrying them into effect.

Reti still resides at his old residence, and the Resident never received any satisfaction for the gross insult, by which he narrowly escaped being sacrificed.

As the conduct of that gentleman has been characterized by strict justice towards the natives, this attempt to deprive him of life and property should have been severely visited. I will add but one more instance of the little influence of the person of the Resident among the New Zealanders.

On the 12th of January, 1836, some European ship-masters wished to purchase a tract of forest land, in the district of Wananaki, a few miles to the southward of Cape Brett.

The land in question had been depopulated many years, and the conquerors, who had conjointly destroyed the original proprietors, resided in separate villages some miles distance from each other in the Bay of Islands. The principal

TO THE RESIDENT.

chief of the north village was Waikato, the native mentioned as having formerly been presented to George the Fourth. The chief of the village, south, was E'Toi, surnamed Poniard. Both parties agreed to meet at Mr. Busby's to state their respective claims. They arrived as appointed, and each party ranged themselves on either side of the residency. Some of the brethren of the mission attended to listen to the result. Waikato commenced speaking, and was followed by several of his tribe, in which they used many abusive expressions to the opposite party, who were three times their number, and caused the latter to express their indignation at such conduct, on which Waikato and his party ran to an adjoining bush, and instantly returned with their muskets loaded with ball, these they hastily presented and discharged at the opposite party, killing two men and wounding four. There was sad confusion in consequence; the unarmed party rushing into the house of the Resident for protection. The Europeans ran up to Waikato's party to stop the effusion of blood, but those perfidious people had decamped as fast as possible. The influence of the missionaries stopped the farther effusion of blood, which the native law requires as retaliation. A new cause of alarm, of a very singular nature, threatened to displace

BARON DE THIERRY.

Mr. Busby from his situation. The circumstance is fully detailed in a document, the first ever printed in the English language in New Zealand, and may be accounted as the earliest diplomatic essay, (see note 10); premising that not a single person, save the resident, placed the slightest credence in the intentions of the Baron de Thierry, who, it is stated was the son of a reputable French emigre in England, and at the period referred to, residing at Tahiti, and married to a lady of superior accomplishments and elegance. The land in Hokianga, it is said, was justly purchased for the Baron, in 1822, by Mr. Kendall; and a few Europeans, with many natives yet remember the circumstance.

The Baron has since, (September, 1837,) sailed for Hokianga, taking with him a number of emigrants. He has published a lengthy address to the white residents and proposes ruling by moral force only.

Later information has been received, dated the 20th of February, 1838, stating the arrival of this enthusiastic leader, and that his colonists had seceded from his authority, and entered on employments as farmers on their own account.

CHAPTER VIII

CHAPTER VIII.

Religion and devout feelings of the New Zealanders – Origin of their divinities – Their mythology – Attributes – Power and conduct in heaven and on earth – Native conversations – Duties appertaining to a gentleman in New Zealand – Power of the "gods" over Europeans – On priests and the sacerdotal functions attached – Their method of curing diseases – Sacrifices – Incantations – An unknown tongue – Anathemas of the people – Native interdict – Tithes, their collection.

The religious tenets of the New Zealanders are inculcated into their minds at a very early age; yet they worship no representation of the Great Spirit, who is believed to be implacable, and the origin of every evil.

In the course of this narration the reader will have perceived that fearful superstitions shake this people to the very soul, and make them frightened at their own shadows. These absorbing fears

RELIGIOUS TENETS.

stay them from committing depredations during the night, or the population would have decreased more rapidly than it has already alarmingly done. The theogony of the people is continually on the increase, as every renowned chief that dies, is added to their divine biography, which, imprinted, would rival the ponderous tomes issued by the old Academie Francaise.

Much as the memories of the generality of these Atuas or gods, are respected, their acquaintance is palpably disliked, as they are supposed to cause every evil dispensation in life; even a griping of the inward man is attributed to the devouring lust of an atua, who is supposed to feed on the entrails of the sufferer, and they are represented to be as immoderate in cannibalism after their apotheosis or deification as when existing as mortal chiefs on this earth.

Every district in the country possesses different atuas, to whom are assigned unnatural tastes wholly repudiated by this primitive people, who have no idea of the disgusting extent of crimes, with which civilization alone, (it would appear,) has tainted human nature.

At Piroa, or Doubtless Bay, on one of the most prominent hills, is said to reside Niturehu, a filthy deity, whose affection for red headed young ladies and gentlemen is only comparable to

NATIVE DIABLERIE.

the depraved tastes of Jupiter Tonans, to whom a Leda or Ganimede were equally acceptable.

It is devoutly to be wished that the time may early arrive when a knowledge of the useful arts will take the place of Lempriere's collection of brutal obscenities in our public schools. Niturehu's gout for red hair may be said to lend a colour to his actions; but those natives, whose locks bear any resemblance to a vegetable red, invariably, on mentioning this deity, deny it, admitting their crinigerous covering is not absolutely black, but like some northern nations, whose tresses are said to resemble the golden sand of the Pactolus.

The Taniwoa is the general name for the whole race of aquatic divinities.

These diavoli are found in every port, river, creek, or lake in the islands, and the sea is also said to be possessed by them. Thus the upsetting of a canoe, the breaking of a fishing line or hook, the rending of a net, or bite from any fish, are laid to the charge of the ruthless Taniwoa. His name might be, with justice, termed Million, from his innumerable appellations. He is supposed to pay little attention to white men, whose crack boats, or larger vessels, and ability in their management defy the (anti) Pacific Neptune. Mawi is accounted as father of the gods. The

PRESIDING DIVINITIES.

performances of this divinity, and his punishment, for an unlucky connubial mistake, has been already related.

His sepulchre is on the Ikorangi mountain, near the East Cape, and as a monument for a divinity, is worthy of a Cheops.

Every bad passion, such as anger, fear, malignity, revenge, horror, remorse, sorrow, &c, is laid on the divine scape-goat. Love, pleasure, prosperity, health, are supposed to exist without divine intervention. When these latter passions prevail among the people, there is no occasion for the services of the priesthood, who are only called in to avert some calamity, or like Baalam the son of Peor employed by that interesting savage, Balak, to curse an enemy. As the flock, in such cases can manage without the aid of the pastor, who naturally lacks his tithes, the latter has sternly forbidden the gods to have any thing to do with that which smacks of comfort or content, except after the harvests; the atuas have a small portion of the crop put aside, which the priests take the trouble of masticating for them, requesting for such service, that he will oblige the people with allowing the ground to teem the ensuing year with a plenteous produce.

To Mawi is ascribed, and also to a relation named

THEIR ATTRIBUTES.

Toaki, the manufacture of land. He is also regarded as forming the numerous volcanoes on the islands. A priest, at my fire-side, gave me some information of Toaki, who, he said, possessed a pair of tongs, poker, and shovel, pointing to those articles that garnished my hearth. The shovel, he observed was made use of, that none of the lava, (punga rea,) should be uselessly expended. Every time the fire and smoke were emitted, it was caused by an extra stir up of the divine poker. The shovel was also made use of to tumble the slave population into the crater, (mungi no te puki puhia;) but the priest was puzzled to find employment for the infernal tongs; at last he bethought himself, "no na pakeha pea!" probably for the white men!

The Ruatara or lizard, is accounted a very virulent deity. This innocuous reptile is supposed to enter the human body the best way he is able, and amuses himself by devouring the inside of the helpless sufferer. This atua pays attention only to such priests as have been long studied in the profession; one of these elders, if of a quiet mild disposition in making his incantations over the sick person, will moralize on the folly of the atua, in seeking food in so thin

DIVINE ANIMALS.

and spare a person. If the patient should happen to be of a contrary habit, inclining to obesity, he will joke with the god; tell him to enjoy himself in some person of fitter trim, or otherwise he will stand a chance of being suffocated. Should the priest be of an irascible turn, he will roundly tax the god, and order him off immediately; telling him to beware of his catching him, or else he will astonish his weak mind for his temerity in touching one of his flock; he will also advise him to establish his quarters at some obnoxious village in the vicinity.

If the patient recovers, the old enchanter will immediately swear he saw the atua, in form of the lizard, walk out of the sick man's ear, nostrils, or mouth.

The Guana or gigantic lizard, appearing before an army of truculent warriors, would soon put them all to flight.

Mawi Rangi, is the Ceres of the country, and is said to be seen at work, when the sky exhibits a blue surface, chequered with white clouds: this divinity is then supposed to be planting the aerial edibles, and rain shortly after following, is stated to have been caused by the atua watering his productions, after a portable me-

CERES, CHARON, AND VULCAN

thod, that any other than a New Zealand divinity, would possess too much delicacy to make use of, in horticultural pursuits.

That the atuas are at times afflicted with famine, may be reasonably supposed from the method employed when the head of a family ceases to exist: a portion of food, such as a small bird, or a small pottle of cooked vegetables, being then placed on a tapued spot for payment to the native Charon.

The elements are under the direction of the deities; the keeper of the westerly winds is regarded as the most passionate of the atuas; it is even supposed he is so easily ruffled and irritable, that he often chokes himself with passionate bile, which accounts for that wind ceasing at some periods.

Kotaki is also supposed to be a foreman to Toaki; but those atuas are saved the "hard labour for life," that Vulcan was sentenced to, viz. in forging thunderbolts, and other spiritual ammunition, as this metal, though abounding in the country, has not been brought into use.

The Pleiades are pointed out as the left eyes of the atuas, once mortal chiefs, who cannot prevent themselves from twinkling, or as a priest

TRADITIONS ON THE

sagaciously observed, how difficult it must be to keep one eye always open, and its fellow eternally shut; another sage, upon reflection said, it was probably produced by the laughter, caused by some witticism of another atua.

The shooting of a star, was interpreted to me as the act of an irritable divinity, giving an unceremonious kick to the gravitating centre of a weaker neighbour, resembling the performance of the "thunderer," on the inexpressible parts of the tuneful Apollo, which is said to have hastened his volitary powers.

The female atuas in the native empyrean, are described as coquetish and flighty, loving to madness, and hating to detestation, indifferent and jealous, never changing and ever varying, as the dear sex are said to be on earth, (I am no subscriber to the charge), and the earthquake, (ourangi o te wenua) is said to be caused by old Toaki and his friends getting drunk with love, (not wine.)

These female spirits would seem to resemble those less etherial compositions to whom the lips of mortal men make frequent application to on earth. They appear to emanate, or are distilled from an internal cause; their effects, it would appear, are equally pungent, each pos-

HEAVENLY BODIES.

sessing overproof strength to give a recumbency to the strongest; and it would also appear the ladies put both into hot water above and below, then with a smile, or a lump of "double refined," restore palatibility. Another commentator differed, (it is the trick of the trade), and gave his opinion, that Toaki was enjoying a nap, and the nodding of his Atlas-like head and shoulders, could alone cause the tremblement de terre.

The Sun (Ra), and Moon (Morama), have a thousand traditions. Of the latter, Rona, is the chief of the place; he formerly lived upon earth; but his lodgings are not distinctly pointed out. He subsequently made a journey to the moon, which if not formed of green cheese, something as pleasing to the atua's taste was found, for he, it is said, never descended to his native country since. His serail is numerously attended: the names of the ladies are registered in the inventive heads of the priests; and they are said, (to use a modern phrase) "to keep it up," pretty comfortably.

The Maculae, or dark spots in the sun, are said to arise from the shade, cast by battling warriors; and the helio-cometes, or luminous emanations from the sun in spiral rays, is re-

POLEMICAL DICTUMS

garded as a large assembly of divine chiefs, taking a glance before nightfall, on the endeared scene of their mortal existence – which in life they loved so well. The clouds passing the moon, are said to be caused for reasons that Rona possesses, which may be illustrated, by the throwing of a kerchief from a sultan at Istamboul to a terrestrial houri.

The native Boreas, whose name is Ounui, has lost nothing of the flatulency ascribed to that divine personage; indecorous imitations on a minor scale, form the subject of unpleasant witticisms among his disciples, which smack strongly of their unrefined condition.

It is a matter of difficulty to persuade a native of the beneficence of an adorable and merciful Creator. That the same omnipresent being, who gives us daily the means of satisfying our wants, and rarely punishes us, however we may deserve it, made the Europeans and his countrymen, is altogether beyond his belief.

Residing wholly among the natives at various periods, I had frequent opportunities of conversing with them on these subjects; the difference of complexion, the superior abilities displayed in the building of European ships, and the instruments of iron, and steel, so superior to their own

OF THE NATIVES.

unpretending implements, are apparently so great, that they can scarcely be persuaded of the fact.

Many tribes differ, as to the attributes of the above divinities, and as the mythology is unnotated in writing, those aerial personages are often confounded. Interpolations are added or diminished, as may suit the fancy of the relater, which depends much on the surrounding locality. They admit that the Atua no Europi, or God of the Europeans, has power over them, and add with bitterness, he has indeed come to the land in the form of disease, – such as the influenza, cholera, and another introduced at the earliest period, and still more to be deprecated.

One venerable sage assured me, that he had beheld the God of the white man, and described the several comets he had seen, within his own memory, and that of his parent. As to the introduction of diseases, I began to account for them, but my observations were speedily cut short by an old man remarking, that the natives were thus afflicted by the atua of the white men, as the latter had been permitted to remain in the land. – "Yes," he added, "you have fine ships and fine things, but your country cannot

CONVERSATIONS.

equal New Zealand, or you would never have left your parents and relations, the village you were born in, the chief under whose command you were brought up, and the wai tapu of your ancestors. You are all slaves in this country, who have ran away from your homes."

Many pleasing questions were often discussed in these little conversazioni, which evinced the powerful intellect possessed by these rude people.

Small parties of these poor misled savages, were in the habit of congregating outside my house on the banks of the Maunga muka river; a large fire was made of wood, of the Kauri gum, whose bituminous nature threw a vivid blaze around, and the natives would encircle the fire, their outer mats spread on the ground, and the chiefs, generally elders, reclining on them with the eternal tobacco pipe. When they were engaged in political discussions, I applied myself to a book, the selection of which gave me but little trouble, my library being what might be termed perfectly unique in its way, consisting solely of the Holy Bible, the sixth volume of Cook's Voyages, an abridgement of Cocker's arithmetic, and a few of the Courier newspaper, containing the "latest bul-

LIBERTY OF CONSCIENCE.

letins, of General Bonaparte at Austerlitz," a battle which (in reading) I had fought over at least twenty times.

I enquired of a chief, who sent his son the day previously to Mangugnu, to receive instruction from the Wesleyan brethren, why he did not also incline his heart to similar religious instruction, or, if contrary to his belief, why not require his son to follow his own evangelical notions. He said that heaven and hell, taught by Europeans, might be very true; if so, he had been warring too much all his life to expect any transition from a better place than was appropriated to his ancestors; he had therefore made up his mind to go to the reinga and eat kumeras, as all his ancestors had done before him; if the atua changed the heart of his son in favour of Europeans, he would not thwart him; a native parent always let his child do as he liked.

I then requested the service of another son that remained at home with the friendly universalist, but he declined, on the score that he had no one to help him to plant the uwhi, or winter potatoe.

Wata, a kind old chief, promised me one of his sons, on condition that I treated him like a gentleman, and would not let him cook in the

238 NOTIONS OF GENTILITY.

kitchen, but allow him to blacken my shoes, clean the knives and forks, and add to the labourers in the boats. I promised to keep inviolate the respectability of his son Heriheri, whose delicacy should not be tainted with my knowledge; that the polished duties of shoe blacking should be wholly consigned to his charge, as well as the necessary abrasions of the knives and forks, if I possessed those articles in the plural number, so that no handle should be given for discontent. I added, that the cook should not carve out any culinary work for him, except peeling potatoes with a muscle shell, which, after some remonstrance, was amicably assented to.

Accordingly the old gentleman patted my legs, said I was an excellent white man, and that his son should join me early on the morrow. His anxious mind being now relieved as to the respectable functions that would devolve on his child, in the warmth of his emotion he added the offer of one of his daughters; but with a profusion of thanks, I declined this addition to my family, advising him that the Wesleyan settlement would be infinitely more serviceable to the furtherance of her education.

A native feels much gratified at a European being conversant with the language, and terms

JEALOUSY IN A PRIEST.

him a native white man (pakeha maori). They acknowledge the native atuas are powerless over the latter.

An old man, named Gnow, often paid me a visit during my residence on the banks of the Maunga muka. This personage was an excellent specimen of the New Zealand priesthood.

He had taken unto himself a young wife in his old age, whose indiscretions before espousals, it was stated, were still practised after her entering the conjugal state.

The old gentleman called at the settlement one day, alone, and exceedingly irritated, occasioned by a galling remark on the conduct of his Messalina, made by a chief, whose fortune the priest refused to communicate. The old gentleman repeated his griefs to me, observing he felt ashamed to ask the advice of a countryman on the subject. He admitted that the rank of his wife put it out of his power to punish her, as she deserved, and in the simplicity of his heart, or obtuseness of his intellects, enquired if I could see what she might, at that moment, be engaged in, through my eyeglass, of whose powers of prescience he had heard. I demanded what her occupation had been the few preceding days. – Gnow replied, making a mat for him. I then took a

HIS GRATITUDE.

glance through my glass, and told him, that doubtless she was then scraping flax. The old man jumped from his recumbent position and danced about the room, as early as I delivered this oracle, repeating several times: "apono ano, e mea pono ra kio!" it is a truth – a true thing really; "kourpou ano tana muka," her flax is surely expended. In the fullness of his joy, he turned round his right eye towards me, (he was blind in the left) and promised me a small pig, or kuri, raising his extended hand the height it should be from the floor, enquiring if the size would content me; but his sightless organ might as well have faced me, for I never saw the promised payment.

I often afterwards reminded him of the utu, when his lady attended him; he would then put up his hand, indicative of silence, and exclaim "taiore, ouwe porangi ekoro mia," bye and bye, be not hasty, my friend. The old man has since been gathered to his fathers, but he forgot the pig among the legacies of his will; it is therefore past "taiore."

His merry-making wife at last got in reality the blind side of him; she pretended great affection, studied his whims and oddities so much, that Gnow often told me, he ought to feel happy, as he felt certain in the event of his death, that

AN UXORIOUS PRIEST.

his wife would immediately hang herself. I answered that such an occurrence was likely to happen before his death. He did not fathom my meaning, notwithstanding his knowledge of the occult sciences, and frequently expressed a hope that such would not be the case.

The old man was best known by the name of Matapo, (blind man) and he was much given to boast, pointing to his sole visual organ, that he could behold more with that single eye, than any other priest in the country with a vision quadrupled. He added, that the atuas had frequently appeared to him, and that he was on the most intimate terms with them.

I met Gnow at a village some time after my oral decision on the conduct of his wife, when a young man, named Waitara, was confined to his hut with illness. Matapo was dancing up and down a circle of believers, with a wreath of karaka leaves bound round his head, and a belt of green flax round his waist; with this exception, he was as bare of clothing as at the hour he was first introduced into this sublunary world. As he was chief priest of the district, which includes the professions of barber, surgeon, physician, necromancer, apothecary, and fortuneteller, he was induced to visit the young man, and at the moment was engaged making a prayer

INCANTATIONS.

to the divinity of the village, who must have enjoyed a sound nap, or felt indifferent to the priest, if he did not hear him, for Matapo raved and danced like a bedlamite at the atua for listening to the young man's enemies, and he ever and anon shook his little spear in a menacing manner, as if he would destroy a whole family of atuas. To speak to him was unavailing: I therefore made use of the magic of a head of tobacco, which produced the effect intended, as he immediately approached me with a benignant smile beaming on his countenance and told me that the young man Waitara, was bewitched or makutued. I enquired how that event came about; he said, that an enemy of an opposing tribe had smoked out of the sick man's pipe, and he promised to show me what he could do in destroying the effects of the makutu; he accordingly approached Waitara, and began a shibboleth to the atua that no person present understood; and as the priest did not understand it himself, I shall be readily spared a translation. He then turned to the young man, and scolded him for having had anything to say to a tribe who would let their own priests starve before they would give them a basket of potatoes. "But," continued the old priest, "I forgot there is not a priest among

SUPERSTITION.

them that deserves a pipi," (cockle). I spoke to the young man, who was very unwell, but somewhat intelligent, and told him, that if he would follow my directions, he would recover. He hesitated, and looked at Matapo, who consented that my atua should be called in, as he felt angry he said, with his own, for permitting the young man to be bewitched in the first instance. On this the priest consented to cover his nakedness by putting on a garment. The old man was himself dying of atrophy, and I verily believe a smart, pleasant, breeze would have blown him about like a shuttlecock, for his shrunk shanks would not have borne the body of a stout boy of ten years of age.

The New Zealanders admit that the new people can be priests equal in ability to their own class; – a singular coincidence gave rise to my being invested with the dignity common to the fraternity.

Being somewhat near-sighted, I was amusing myself (perhaps for want of thought) by observing through my glass the planets which encircled the milky way, and those myriads of stars whose coruscations of light, cause the glittering phenomena. An aged priest enquired if I could perceive the atua. I replied no; but that I could discern his works (pointing to himself, the stars, and the fast

DIFFERENCE OF OPINIONS.

flowing river at our feet). A few stars, whose location had a very distant resemblance to the bow of a ship, caused me to observe I could perceive a ship; the bystanders all wanted to see the aerial vessel, upon which they severally looked through the glass; but their superior length of vision was dimmed by the instrument. This gave rise to a discussion among them, whether the wearing of a pair of spectacles, or an eye glass, conferred a title on the wearer in Europe; several elders contending, that a pair of spectacles was evidently the most honourable, as a single glass only appertained to the eyeglass.

A servant of mine gave his opinion, that only priests were allowed to wear glasses, and as proof positive of what he had advanced, enquired if any one present had seen an inferior European wear glasses, adding, he had seen the Reverend Messrs. Marsden and Williams wear them constantly; the latter could not be gainsaid, whose happy, jovial countenance is as well known peering through the identical spectacles, as any European countenance in the country. One sage, after mature reflection, observed, that the white men and natives were organised alike, as (to use his expression) two kumeras resembled each other, then the eyesight must also be alike;

LOSS OF THE "MEREDITH."

but as it was proved that none present could see through the glass, it must be for some such purpose, as the servant Tunatuna had said. Strange to say, within two hours after I had stated, I could see a ship, we heard the news from a passing native, who was paddling his canoe up the river, that a vessel had just been seen off the heads of the Hokianga river, which was the first that had entered the port for three months previously. Of course, I should never have predicted the vessel, but from a natural accidental appearance. I therefore beg leave to disclaim all knowledge of the cabalistic sciences. The vessel proved to be the ship "Meredith" of London, Fullarton, with salt from Oahu (Sandwich Islands), and was totally wrecked off the north head of the river.

The priests or tohungas, when once established, are persons of much influence, and some importance among the people. But any person may become one of the class, and few chiefs of any note take the dignity unless for political purposes.

The younger relations who possess but little in worldly goods in respectable families, generally take this profession. There are many sensible natives who laugh at this class of men; but these free-thinkers by the force of habit or exam-

ABSENCE OF CONSCIENCE.

pie, succumb to the crafty old men, on being taken ill, but no sooner recover than they become again faithless.

The priests do not fail to notice these independents, and they are doubly mulct when taken unwell. Though while busily engaged in sacrifices, they are regarded as holy people, yet if taken in battle, their bodies do not escape being cut up, and devoured, similar to those of common slaves.

On the priest depends whether a war shall be commenced, or once entered upon, whether it shall be continued or cease. The consciences (heaven save the mark) of his flock, lie in his keeping; its consequent absence may in some measure account for the little that is shown by a native towards friend or foe. The labours of the priesthood are principally required after a victory. When the body of a principal enemy is to be cut up, partly roasted, and tasted by these people, auguries are elicited by the appearances of the intestines; and on their position and taste, depend the renewal of the contest or its cessation between the hostile powers. Priests possess the gift of prescience, and are supposed to foretell to an hour what is likely to happen, and should the contrary to the prediction take place, it is accounted for, that the atua is in an

SACRIFICIAL CEREMONIES.

ill humour, thus venting his bile on the priest, whose flock observe "nu Tilani, man no fool," so they return the supposed anger of the atua, with double applause on the priest, and a proportionate medium of contempt on the faulty divinity, who is regarded as unable to know his own mind, which is a national feature.

Crozet, in writing on the religious feeling of the natives, observes: "Quand on leur a fait des questions a ce sujet, ils ont leve les yeux et les mains au ciel, avec des demonstrations de respect et de crainte qui indiquaient leur croyance d'un Etre supreme."

In incantations the priests are entirely denuded of dress.

When returning victors from a battle, thanks are given to Tu the native Mars, and Wiro the evil spirit, in the following manner: – each person who has distinguished himself in the fight, carries in his hand a bunch of toitoi grass, and lays it on a platform in front of the priest, who takes a similar bunch in his hand, chanting his kouwou or prayer; an inferior priest takes the various bunches from him, and carries them to the water, repeating prayers with outstretched arms to the Taniwoa of the place, to whose affability and politeness, he attributes the safe return of his relatives and friends in their

OFFERTORIES.

canoes. Every bunch is thus taken off the scaffold by various priests, and taken to the water in the same manner as the preceding, and similar remerciments to the atua. All the other ceremonies are equally simple, in either sense of the word, except when human sacrifices of victims take place; then these cannibals show they have not degenerated from the sons of Belial, their Asiatic ancestors.

To the body of slaves no sacrificial honours are paid; they are prepared by the cooks, without delay, for these sarcophagi; and when dressed, a small portion of the body is put in a basket and placed on an elevated platform in a wai tapu, or on the branch of a tree, as a propitiatory sacrifice to Wiro, who personates the devil (and is fully as black in this country, as he is elsewhere represented).

These latter sacrifices are not performed before vulgar eyes. The head priest devoutly addresses the devil, who is here wanting in the appendage that reckless Europeans have entailed on him. The priests eat wholly of the first body slain in battle, the chiefs and people partake of all that may be slain after.

A female chief when slain, is cut up and sacrificed by priestesses, that is, if the men have sufficient subjects in hand of their own sex.

REFINEMENTS IN BARBARITY.

These feminine incarnations of Satan are treated with much respect, are believed and trusted with the same implicit faith as the priests. There is also introduced into the incantations, an unknown tongue, that produces among these untaught savages, as much veneration, not unmixed with fear, as ever was felt within the breasts of similarly fanatical Europeans.

Among other refinements in barbarity, practiced on those occasions, the dissections take place before the captured relatives, who are thus made witnesses of the horrible fate of their friends; and when the endearing affection with which these people view each other among their families, is considered, it is impossible to conceive the agony and horror of the miserable children, and the enslaved wives and relations, whose strength as a tribe are perhaps broken for ever. Yet it is certain that after some time, when the memory no longer lingers upon the losses they have sustained, the captured people throw their affections on the tribe who conquered them, and I have seen many thus circumstanced, who in after years have been on visits to the villages where they were born, and the relatives from whom they were torn, and have always returned to the conquerors, having formed new connections and tastes.

LEVITICAL INVENTIONS.

The anathema of a priest is regarded as a thunderbolt that an enemy cannot escape; scarce a village exists without these spiritual weapons hanging over them. Priests of either sex are continually consulted by their followers previously to undertaking anything, whether leaving for a fishing party, or any other jaunt; and those chief ladies, who love their lords, are continually harassing the village priest, as to the sex of the embryo fruits of her union. The sly old sage, to get rid of unpleasant importunities, will probably say a girl, expecting the wretched mother will not let the infant see the light; but if the priest gets a consideration for the trouble he may be put to, (for in this country, similarly to that on the western side of St. George's Channel, tithes are very difficult to collect) that alters the sex instanter; should the promised boy prove to be a girl, the rogue persuades the silly mother, that he had prayed to such an atua, but had given him up some time previously, and doubtless the atua out of revenge had changed the sex. The priest asseverates this to the lady's friends, who perhaps were very solicitous for a male child, and to the weak woman so often, that at last he becomes a convert to his own inventions.

These priests are soon beaten from their posi-

DIVINE DUST.

tions by a very little argument; the pastor and flock have frequently before me laughed heartily, at trusting to "dry bones," which is all they possess of their atuas.

CHAPTER IX

CHAPTER IX.

Prohibition or tapu – Conduct of children – Phrenological notices – Sacred animals – Ventriloquism of the priesthood – Remorse of the natives, and dubious atonement – Baptismal rites – Dreams – Native barbers – Anecdotes detailing the superstitions of the natives – On bewitching – Death of a slave – Superstitions of the evil eye – Second sight – Cemeteries – Feelings of devotion and hypocrisy in their conduct – Astonishment of the natives at first beholding Europeans – Traditions of the visits of former white men – Modern Centaurs – Deification of Asses – Pathology – Materia Medica of the native. – On the language of the South Sea islanders – Numerals in use by fifty different nations, conterraneous with the ancestors of the New Zealanders.

Of the tapu or sacred prohibition, the priests have the sole management.

If an accident of any description occurs to the person of a chief, the spot where it took place is sacred ground. This is generally manifested

USAGES OF PROHIBITION.

by a small quantity of human hair being made fast to a tree or stick, and this sign is never violated, unless purposely to foment a quarrel.

A father is often forbidden against touching his child, though any other person may do so when he pleases. Thus any impudent urchin, provided he pleases the priest, may be as saucy as he likes to any other person who are tapued from touching him, or giving a wholesome castigation.

When either sex are busily engaged on any particular kind of work, they are forbidden to touch food, being fed like babies from the hands of another party; and when the voracity of a native appetite is taken into consideration, the job will be found no sinecure. If a slave is thus tapued, he has to swallow his allotted food as best he can, as it lies on the ground, taking especial care his fingers do not touch a morsel.

This conduct can give but little surprise, for we find in all ages and nations mankind studying, it would appear for the want of more profitable employment, how they shall best afflict themselves to render life burthensome, generally under the plea of sacred religion, arraying that bright form of faith and hope in

PHRENOLOGICAL NOTICES.

the most repulsive garb – metamorphosing the sunshine of eternal happiness into dark clouds of dread and despair.

The system of Gall would find that the highly superstitious turn of the native mind spurs him to acts of folly. I possess the cast of a native's head, which warrants in some degree my analysis of their character. I will only observe that the protuberance denoting fear and superstition is full as high, as conscienciousness is the reverse.

The name of a chief is accounted as holy; yet these names are bestowed on favourite dogs, pigs, etc. The lucky animal who bears such an appellation is never killed, unless taken by an enemy, who has less compunction, nature otherwise being allowed to take her course on these right honourables. Tapued pigs are often taken on board ships for sale; but they are no sooner sold, than means are found to steal them back almost immediately.

I was on board a ship when one of these sanctified beasts was produced on the deck for sale, he was very large, and on being hauled up the ship's side appeared to feel much discommoded; the master enquired of me his probable value; I observed, but little to him, as the natives would prevent his being killed. I had often

PROHIBITORY LAWS.

seen the brute before, he was an old acquaintance. The master bought him notwithstanding, previously directing his people to kill the animal directly it was purchased. They did so accordingly, on which the natives commenced a howling at this murder as they called it, (kohudu) which they would never have expressed at the death of a dozen slaves. The master was immediately titled a murderer, by which he is known to this day.

The tapu has often interfered with European traders; thus in making a fishing net, the river opposite is sacred, and no canoes are allowed to pass the river. Kiwikiwi, a chief of the Kaua-kaua, tapued that beautiful river in 1836, because he thought proper to vent his spite against a neighbouring chief, who lived farther up the stream, and thus cut off his communication with the shipping. The simple natives obeyed, but the Europeans would not, and the chief discharged several muskets loaded with ball at the various boats as they passed; luckily there are not many native riflemen even among the best shots; but, at a conference that followed, it was carried unanimously and the motion seconded, that, for the future, Europeans should not be shot at for such trifles.

Some of the priests understand the art of

A VENTRILOQUIST.

ventriloquism, though from the filthy obscenity of the natives it is not always essayed to the most legitimate of purposes. On enquiring of a priest if he had seen the atua, he answered, " Oh yes ! he is now at home, " pointing to his forehead, " and I can produce him. " The classical reader will be reminded that Wisdom herself emanated from the forehead of Jove, but the resemblance can be no farther pursued, save the countenance of the speaker, which, in beauty, resembled that displayed on the aegis of the immortal goddess.

The priest then commenced some distant noises, that were efforts in the above art; but had this ancient necromancer seen Matthews "At home," or in New Zealand, he would have given up the ghost, for very shame and vexation. I made an attempt, but freely own my inability to equal the priest, who was applauded by the silly bystanders, in whom they devoutly believed their tutelary atua had taken up his town residence. I told them that in Europe, people apparently could make a dog express himself on polemics, as the priest had done, or a pig distinctly state his opinions on political economy, and the shocking redundancy of population (the latter is a fact). The natives, who doat on their children, exclaimed, it must be a poorka kikina rawa, or an exceeding bad

PROPITIATING THE GODS.

pig. I mentioned the antiquity of the art in Asia and Europe, and was informed that their priests had made use of it from time immemorial; that their ancestors had first learnt it, imitating the notes of birds. Several persons present made similar attempts to the priest, and finished their efforts with their usual flatulent vulgarity. The old man admitted it was priestly deceit, (hangareka no na tohunga maori) but probably when I left them, he told the listening party that he was obliged to say something to convince the white man.

If a native imagines he has offended his atua in word or deed, he generally offers a payment to subdue his anger, such as throwing a favourite object into the water, or even burning his house to the ground, on which spot he never rebuilds another, or else setting fire to the house of a weaker neighbour, who dare not resent it, which is supposed to answer the same purpose just as well. This performance he expects must propitiate the anger of the atua; but if he is given to suppose it has not done so, that his labour has hitherto been bestowed in vain, he then generally commits a crime of a deeper die, such as killing a slave to satisfy this remorseless divinity (kaua-kona).

The natives have a rite among them very si-

BAPTISM.

milar to the ceremony of baptism, which occurs when the child is about eight years old.

The infant is carried by an old established priest to the banks of a river, in which the child is dipped, the old gentleman praying to various gods that his charge may commit every action that is included within the bounds of rascality – that he may be equally prone to villany as his ancestors – that he may devour his enemies and escape the same system of gastronomy – that his dance of the haka may alone frighten his enemies into convulsions and thus fall into his hands, as the kukupa (wild pigeon) cannot escape those of the subtile fowler.

A sumptuous feast is then given, in which the priest contrives to swallow a sufficiency in the shape of tithes, that might satisfy less sanctimonious idolators for a month. It is the interest of these "conscript fathers" to stir up animosities between the tribes, as then the weaker people generally send this functionary such presents as may tickle his cupidity, and cause him to avert the wrath of his tribe on some other 'scapegoats, whom the priests are at no loss to fix upon.

Dreams are regarded with much attention by the natives, and, sitting in circles, they communicate them to each other, giving interpretations

SUPERSTITIONS.

as may best please them. The aged sages are eternally dozing or dreaming, especially in war time, when these oracular personages are in continual request.

A shake of the head, though there may be nothing in it, is looked upon with ominous suspicion. If the dreams are inauspicious, patience, a scarce commodity among these perverse children, is recommended, as in all likelihood the battle will turn against them, and their tribe be destroyed.

When a fleet of canoes is manned for undertaking a war expedition, on every beech the warriors arrive at, it is customary to take some sea weed or boughs of a laurel tree, and after immersing them in the ocean, make them fast to the branch of a tree or in a cemetery, if one is near, prayers being said to propitiate the Taniwoa, Tu, and the atuas of the winds, to annihilate their enemies and exalt themselves. No food is allowed to be cooked or eaten until this ceremony is performed; any slave attempting to act to the contrary, would probably be killed, and afford provision to break the fast of their devout masters. Another method of ariolation is practised, by throwing a muscle shell, or piece of sacred stick at the preserved heads of their enemies as they are placed in a row,

BARBERS.

and as it may fall, the side being previously agreed on, will signify peace, or a contrary termination.

The office of barber is not attended with the salary attached to that profession in civilised countries, as a native tonsor is tapued for two and three days, so that the hair is allowed to grow very bushy before it is cut, and when the operation takes place, it is cropped with a muscle shell as close as possible, this being the primitive apology for a pair of scissars, and a razor.

The natives are wholly guided by superstitious fears.

A number of natives were employed one day carrying on their backs a quantity of bags of flour and biscuit from a boat into my store; a corner of one of the bags came unsewed and the biscuit fell out – this bag was carried by an inferior chief; a slave man standing by, picked the bread up, for which I offered him some; the chief carrier stopped me, "Give him something else for his trouble," said he, "but a slave must not eat of that which has been carried on my back; he would die."

A quantity of grubs and caterpillars having made free with a plantation belonging to Parore a chief of Kaipara, the priest of the village placed some

ARIOLATIONS.

pieces of an old sacred canoe at each corner of the plantation. The caterpillars, after having satisfied themselves, left the place for a new migration; the priest got the credit of having dispersed them.

The first fish of the season of any kind, is never disposed of, but is eaten by the chiefs of the party as early as possible, as thanks to the atua for sending the supply; it must be remarked, whenever it is necessary to acknowledge the bounty of the Creator by feasting, these people express their devotional feelings, by filling themselves to repletion.

A priest was called in to the brother of one of my native servants, to administer to him for the illness with which he was afflicted. My services were repudiated: the old disciple of Galen, (or rather Belzebub), began by uttering some nonsense, which not understanding himself, it may reasonably be supposed no other person could fathom. His incantations were of no avail, for the lad died, (of atrophy); the old doctor fearful of losing his celebrity, and having a professional jealousy of another in the trade, laid the disease of the lad on his shoulders. The poor fellow, who was inferior in the craft, was obliged to fly to preserve his life from the infuriated friends of the deceased. The lying

A SAGACIOUS PARENT.

old priest was satisfied with the result of his manoeuvre, demanded his fee, and received it; viz. some baskets of sweet potatoes.

I formerly met with a chief who was greatly afflicted by the death of a son; within a short time after, he again called upon me evidently very cheerful. I could not refrain asking him the cause of so sudden a discontinuance of his grief; he replied, – "that he had passed a bush, some few days previously, when his late son, who had inserted himself into the body of the little Tikau bird, whistled to him and bade him dry up his tears, as he felt perfectly satisfied with the quarters he then occupied. "Shall I grieve at his happiness?" the sagacious old man enquiringly demanded. "Not with my advice!" I replied.

The native believes that the souls of men quit the body, while the sleeper is dreaming.

At one period, as I was reflecting on a friend, whose remembrance was endeared to me, an elderly chief enquired of what I was thinking. "No to wahine towahi pea," of your wife abroad perhaps, but I know not if your soul (wairua) travels or not, but be certain your body does, though no person is aware of it. I have often been to Kai kahuroa, (in Cook's

MAKUTU, OR BEWITCHING.

straits four hundred miles south) to see my son who resides there; but though I only leave at night, I am always back before sunrise. I inquired if his many wives never missed him from their bed. "O no! how should they tell, when they are fast asleep," inclining his head on his hand and imitating the dulcet sounds of snoring.

The ridiculous belief of makutu, or bewitching a person to death, is implicitly believed as a part of the native credenda.

I have often seen the bones of hapless people, who had been killed and devoured, having had the blame thrown on them of willingly causing the death of another, by evil wishing. Any person renders himself liable to be bewitched, by a lingering death, on eating the food of his enemy, smoking from his pipe, making use of his paddle, or covering himself within the garment of his supposed foe.

I was represented as having bewitched a slave boy whom I had purchased for a blanket, a musket, a bag of duck shot, and some well thumbed leaves of the "Penny Magazine," which was appropriated as wadding for the "diffusion" of shot, not of knowledge, it being the season for pigeon shooting.

Te Tawa, the master, after receiving the pay-

SUPERSTITIONS,

ment, inveigled the lad from my service. On calling on this noted cannibal and demanding the boy, he gave me to understand his time was otherwise employed, than idly running after slave boys, and if I chose to buy such, the only method he could devise from effectually preventing their return to their native villages, (kainga maori) was to kill and roast them.

I thanked him for the suggestion so much in accordance with his own savory tastes; but again demanded the youth, and accused him of kidnapping him.. Tawa gave me a smile of contempt and defiance. I felt somewhat nettled, as the lad was very quiet and well behaved, but infirm in health. I unhappily said with some asperity, "If I do not get the boy before to-morrow, be certain you shall not have him;" this threat was repeated to the youth with exaggerations, who thought it was meant to bewitch him; he took to his bed, refused all sustenance, and within a fortnight died.

The gross superstition of the evil eye has gained as much credence in New Zealand, as among the peasantry of civilized Europe; and the Celtic secondary vision is stated to be among the privileges of prescience possessed by the priests. Old houses and fences are often strictly prohibited from being touched, and

CEMETERIES.

it has been lately supposed that some of Cook's sailors having taken the fencing of a marai, or cemetery at Owhyhee, (Hawaii) was the cause of the conflict that terminated in the death of that illustrious man.

The wai tapu or cemeteries, are regarded by the people with particular veneration. In these places of burial, are deposited the remains of free people, raouis' or monuments, being erected for persons of note. These places and the

Raouis', or monumental effigies.

annual exhumation of bones, have been described.

These villages of the dead lose much of their sanctity in the opinions of those natives within

EUROPEAN CURIOSITY.

the precincts of the Europeans. I have frequently witnessed the rage that has often excited these people to acts of mischief, on their reverential feelings towards these sacred places being trespassed upon.

In Hokianga, a ship master and one of his passengers, strayed near a sacred grove, and not perceiving any person in the adjoining village, put aside the palings that encircled a native sepulchre, in size and shape resembling a sentry box. They put aside the hingeless door, and saw within, two skeletons placed in a sitting posture, and behind the mortal remains some muskets and native mats were placed in a box for the use of the deceased in their passage to the reinga.

They had scarcely gratified their curiosity, when a slave girl, who was alone in the adjoining village, discovered them in this act of impiety; she raised a cry, on which the Europeans hastily retreated; but too late, for their conduct was communicated to the chief Toho, who was then absent on the island village of Motiti. The tidings quickly spread throughout the river, and nothing less than plundering the ship under the command of one of the intruders, should pay for such sacrilegious temerity; – this act being regarded as the most atrocious that could be devised against the honour of a tribe.

PAYING FOR PEEPING.

Early the next morning the friends of the injured party were collected to rob the store of the Horeke trading settlement, which was nearest to the sacred district. And doubtless they would have accomplished their intentions, but another party of natives assembled of their own consent, to defend the European station. Proceedings commenced as usual with those people, by both parties dancing the Haka, which was followed by a scuffle, in which some severe blows were given and taken; the circle was then made, when the insulted chiefs commenced their orations; dancing up and down the ring demanding payment, whose bulk, (to use their expressions) heaped together, should correspond with the height of the hills behind them (some nine hundred feet,) many similar speeches followed replete with bravado; when an utu was at last agreed to be taken, consisting of a few blankets, muskets, and tobacco, which effectually quieted the doughty champions, and each party separated, after testifying their mutual friendship by another dance.

The sepulchre, however, was broken up, the bones were taken to the river, scraped and washed from the impurities they had undergone by being seen by any person except the priestly

PRIMITIVE CUSTOMS.

chiefs, deposited in new mats, and finally replaced in another receptacle at some distance.

Their scrupulous feelings generally give way to a payment. I have already observed the trouble that was given me in 1833 through the cemetery being on the ground of my settlement of Parramatta. Three years after the purchase, these identical hypocrites, requested me to build on the sacred place, observing the land had passed away from them, and if any sin was attached to making use of the wai tapu, it would only fall on the European; these scrupulous devotees only required a little payment for their forbearance. I did not avail myself of the offer or even take advantage of it; determined not to hurt the superstitious feelings of the poorer classes, who were born on the land, and looked upon the place with peculiar veneration, aware that in a very few years civilization would rapidly erase all these primitive customs.

Often have I been amused by the natives imparting to me their thoughts, on first viewing an European, as any other colour than white for his complexion, would not have been a greater cause for astonishment.

One man stated his surprise on seeing a boat land with seamen, who had black legs and white

EARLY FEARS.

bodies; others with bright red bodies, and white legs speckled with white spots, according to the dresses they had on, which was supposed to form part of the body; but their fear was at its height on seeing these rara avises walk about the beech, on which numbers of the natives ran up the hills, while others climbed the trees. A travelling caravan of animals emptied of its contents in a country fair, amidst a gaping throng, would not have excited greater alarm than these "na pakeha kes," (strange men).

The natives at the southward would also describe to me the notions their fathers entertained, on seeing a ship for the first time.

An indistinct tradition had been handed down of a houseful of atuas', arriving from the clouds; but with the exception of the dog having taken his passage in the aerial conveyance, and who was left behind to solace the people – nought else was preserved to refresh the recollection.

The astonishment of the people, at Turunga, on seeing Cook's ship was so great, that at first, they were benumbed with fear; but presently, recollecting themselves, they felt determined to find out if the gods, (as the new comers were thought to be,) were as pugnacious as themselves. It was agreed to attack the ship and see if they were invincible.

SOMNIFEROUS ANIMALS.

Many of the natives, on beholding the first man on horseback, could not believe but the two beings formed one animal, and nothing could exceed their surprise than seeing this modern centaur divide himself in two, and walk away at his leisure, apparently with perfect ease to himself and satisfaction of the animal: a similar feeling we have perhaps felt in our earliest days in accompanying, (through five octavo volumes,) the Sultan Shahriar, (or some of his highness's friends,) to behold the young king of the Black Isles uncovering himself to prove his composition consisted of being half mortal and the extremities, a base of black marble. The additional two legs did not surprise the people much, who were accustomed to a similar formation in their dogs and pigs; they were not unused to feel the effects of their lateral members, while sleeping with those associates in bed, when some dream, like Clarence's, have, perhaps, disturbed the somniferous quiet of these quadrupeds.

It was long debated among a sagacious conclave of the native priesthood, what species of an atua a newly imported jackass belonged to. His Midas like ears were supposed as peculiarly fitted to attend to the supplications of his followers, and the loud reverberating tones of his harmonious voice appeared to upbraid the small

PATHOLOGY.

still sounds of the native atuas, who are principally quartered in the bodies of the smallest birds.

The pathology of the New Zealanders, who are a pituitous race, does not swell to a large amount.

Water having hitherto been the principal beverage of this people, they have hitherto been exempt from the many diseases that torture the body of the European, from being addicted to spirituous liquors. The universal practice of rising early as the day breaks, and sleeping night or day when so disposed, renders the constitution of the native the healthiest in nature. One of the best proofs I can adduce, is, that from a gun-shot wound to a trifling hurt, the flesh heals remarkably quick.

In the incision of the moko, or tattoo, the body heals in half the time it would if performed on the European. The venerable elders, whose flowing beards, white as snow with age, cause the civilized man of feeling to regard them with respect not unmixed with kindly affection, are as lively and vivacious as their youthful grandchildren; and if wanting in the vigour displayed by their sons, they are almost as agile. These ancient sages partake of the feeling incidental to mankind at a certain age, viz., depreciating

PERIOD OF GESTATION.

the present period and lauding the "good old times." They do not boast as we do of the "wisdom of our ancestors," as so small a modicum of that commodity has been received by these people, that a nutshell might very conveniently carry the digest.

Age does not subdue the spirit of these senators, as in periods of war, they are indomitable, (as far as speechifying extends); they cleave the air with their little spears, shaking with impotent passion. With the exception of a little comatose affection, they do not suffer much from senility. The art of smoking a narcotic, (tobacco especially,) is a national habit; the pipe being introduced between the lips of the infant before it numbers twelve months in age; nor does this weed ever meet with neglect, even to the last scene of all, sans teeth and every sense.

The pains of parturition give but little annoyance to the native females; fifteen minutes only are required at the period of gestation, for the month of the civilized world. The lady retires to a bush, without any ceremony, generally alone, and separates the umbilical cord. The mother immediately commences her own ablutions, and that of young master, and within a few hours attends as usual to her household

DEFORMITIES.

affairs. The new acquaintance is presented to the delighted father, and as swaddling clothes are unknown in the country, the limbs of the infant soon become perfected, and unsightly blemishes are seldom observed. In Tartarian communities, it is stated, immediately after the birth of an infant, the father takes to the bed with his offspring, receiving the honours that certainly appertain to the lady only, instead of a sound horse whipping; but the New Zealand parent takes his full share of trouble in rearing his child, acting as dry nurse, (somewhat a misnomer) to the youngling. 1

Deformed persons are seldom seen in New Zealand. One little man, with a protuberance from a diseased spine, was an instance I perceived of the kind; also a dwarf, with his knees and feet quite inverted. These two unlucky fellows, together with the chief at Maungakahia, are all I ever perceived deformed among many thousand natives.

The diseases gathered from unlawful indulgences, are not attended with the danger similarly accompanied in other countries; the cure is effected by means similar to those employed for procuring premature birth, namely, by steaming, with the natives' method of preparing the oven.

PATHOLOGY.

It is also made use of by the elderly females when unwell. The stones are gathered and made red hot with a powerful wood fire, then a quantity of green celery is placed over them, and above all a stout native mat, on which the female seats herself as comfortable as need be. It has something the effect of a Dutch warming pan. Children often die of cachexy, or want of nourishment. Extravasation is performed by the tangi; such scenes would delight a Sangrado, (the hot water excepted). The nepenthe of the present people is a little tea, sugar, and flour; these modern luxuries are supposed to cure every disease, from a broken neck to the tooth-ache. There are very few natives of a plethoric habit, and, with the exception of Tarria, a Bay chief of enormous muscular proportions, I do not remember to have seen a second person similarly inclined to obesity. Tarria is a monster in size, and the brutality of his tastes correspond. I have seen this man swallow the contents of a bucket, full of cook's dripping and slush, alongside a ship, and then request a second edition of the filthy mess. This ogre has nearly consumed a baby at a meal, without any after complaint of inconvenience and indigestion. A nasty cutaneous disease, called the Waiakiaki, is neither more nor less than the itch, engendered from the filthy

EPIDEMIC PENALTIES.

habits of the people. Close acquaintance spreads this disease, which breaks out in little pustules of virulent matter. Sulphur, applied internally and externally, has relieved the native in two days from this pandemic after a protracted illness.

One instance only of leprosy, or scrofula, came before my notice. This latter disease I have seen very common among the native aborigines of Mozambique, on the African side of the Indian Ocean, and among the inhabitants of the islands of Torres Straits, (Murray's Islands,) that divides the coasts of New Guinea from New Holland. An amaurosis, or partial blindness of the eyes, exists especially among the villagers residing in the vicinity of the sandy coasts.

The painful hydrocele is of continual occurrence. I may only remark on this subject, that domestic irritations are thus avenged by the weaker sex, and cases have occurred in which immediate death has taken place from domestic fracas.

The above few diseases form the sole list of the epidemic penalties of New Zealand, and it will be remembered that most of these, to a cleanly people, would be wholly avoided. The influenza and measles were introduced from New South Wales in a colonial vessel; but little damage ensued; few persons suffered materially.

CAUSES OF DECREASE.

The missionary families, during twenty-five years, were deprived of one single adult member only; in this case the female approached near to sixty years of age, and her illness had no connexion with the climate of the country. It has been stated, that many of the natives have disappeared from the land, in consequence of the introduction of Europeans. This will ever be the case in the commixture of two nations, whose diet totally differ; but if the two people are amalgamated in society, and equally partake of a corresponding nourishment, in the immediate generation that follows, the decrescency of the natives from this cause, must cease. In the country, we daily perceive children of various ages, the offspring of European fathers and native mothers; a handsomer race does not exist; healthier or more muscular; yet in many cases, of servants for example, the change of diet is too much for them, and they eventually decline beneath a new system; but very few deaths ensue solely from this cause.

In the Sandwich Islands, if a native woman is married to an European, she is not expected to have more than one offspring, as her death is expected before a second birth can take place, from, principally, the above debilitating cause. In New Zealand gestation is not attended with so heavy a penalty.

MATERIA MEDICA.

The materia medica of the nation is very simple, but efficacious. Fern root is masticated for dysentery; it is invaluable for the purpose, with the aid of some of our medicaments. A decoction from the leaf of the kaikatoa is used for urinal complaints. Europeans have applied to it for relief from the most disgusting of diseases, and found it serviceable. The kauakaua or kava of the Pacific is found serviceable in similar complaints; various herbs and grasses are used for steaming purposes, and these few simples, together with bathing in salt water, and refreshing the body by sitting in nudity in the open air, form the sole domestic medicines of the country.

The Language of the New Zealanders is radically the same as that made use of by the Oceanic islanders, or descendants of the Malayan race, who inhabit an extensive space, comprising nearly a fourth of the globe; thus we find a corresponding dialect spoken by the people inhabiting the islands in the China Sea, and those of the Sandwich Islands, bordering the North-West coast of America, also in the Islands of New Guinea, New Ireland, New Britain, Louisiades, New Hebrides, New Caledonia, in short the isles of the Indian, African, South, and North Pacific oceans.

Jacob le Maire in 1616, was the first European,

PHILOLOGY

who committed to writing a short vocabulary of the languages of the several lands he visited; and the admiration of the philologist of the present day, must be excited at the remarkably correct ear this navigator must have possessed, and the similarity of the dialects, that in general differ so much among Europeans, speaking the same language in different provinces. The people of the South Pacific Islands would furnish proof, if evidence were wanting, that the Malays have at all times been better navigators, than the natives of New Guinea; the latter race exist only on the islands contiguous to that island. The Malays have spread themselves in all parts of the south seas, in the eastern and more remote islands of India; and no other inhabitants have been yet discovered, whose language bears such decisive marks of Malay origin.

The language is exceedingly soft to the ear, even in the boisterous war speech; and so very ample, that the numberless small creeping plants that would pass unheeded by the uneducated European, are known to the New Zealanders by distinct appellations, and often the same or substance is distinguished by several different names.

Tupia, a Taheitian, conversed so as to be easily understood by the New Zealanders, and by the

OF OCEANICA.

people of Savu an island in latitude 10 deg. 35' south lat. 137 deg. 30' west longitude. It is much perhaps to be regretted, that the youthful New Zealanders were not originally taught the English language by the missionaries, rather than their composing almost a new dialect for them, the orthography of which, even to an Englishman unacquainted with the continental idiom, is obscure. Several English words have been introduced into the native dialect, but in orthography and pronunciation are unlike either language.

The natives in every portion of the islands are anxious to speak the English language, and on hearing expressions from the lips of Europeans, they often repeat and treasure them up. I have several times been saluted by the people, on arriving at their settlements with "Hararu my poy, or How do you do, my boy," and if this expression was the utmost extent of the speaker's knowledge of the language, he would repeat it often, and a shake of the hand would displace the ancient ongi or salutation. I am inclined to think an improved tone would have been given to the propensities of the people, had the English language been substituted for the natives, as these people delight in tales and adventures, and a wonderful store of useful knowledge would have been opened to them. It has been frequently remarked, the pursuance of such a method of

ADVANTAGES OF THE

education would have been more serviceable in civilizing the natives within twenty years, than the present system in a hundred years.

Many natives speak our language pretty well, from the intercourse derived from serving as seamen and servants to the Europeans. Doubtless in the course of two or three generations, the native language will become obsolete, in favour of the English.

In forming the language into a settled system, and in the arrangement of a grammar and dictionary, much embarrassment has been caused by the doubtful, not to say varying method, in which many words are pronounced; thus the exclamation of "Aroai te pakeha," is often pronounced in the same village Aroai, Aloai, and Adoai; this in some degree has caused the diversity of spelling made use of by voyagers in their accounts of the South Sea Islands. Herd in his chart, calls the Port of Hokianga, Jokeeangar, Mr. Marsden terms it Shukianga, and the Baron de Thierry in his proclamation 1837, Yokianga; the most faithful pronunciation is E'Okianga, as no aspiration is made use of by the natives; it is however best known as Hokianga.

The auricular organs of the English visitors, generally speaking, appears to have been rather obtuse; whereas the French have been very happy in their orthography of the language, except

ENGLISH LANGUAGE.

what they have taken from the grammar of Professor Lee. Much attention to proper names of persons and place should be taken by navigators; as much of the interest respecting these islanders are lost, by being figured under various names, thus Pomare, has been imprinted Bomurry, Pomaree, Boo Marray, Poomurrey, Pommarree. Many of the young men educated in the schools of the missionaries are enabled to peruse the bible with some facility; and their ability in writing does much credit to them, and reflects praise upon their teachers. To enter into any further disquisition on the philology of the South Sea islands, would be foreign to the design of this work, but the curious reader will find annexed the numerals as pronounced by sixty various nations, that, previously to the voyages of European navigators who have through different causes introduced them to each other, were scarce aware of any other beings inhabiting the globe besides themselves. To add to the subject as a point of comparison, I have given the dialect made use of in Madagascar, New Guinea, New Hebrides, and New Ireland two hundred and twenty-two years since, and I have no doubt the difference is attributable more to the pronunciation of different European travellers, than any actual change of dialect.

NUMERALS ADOPTED IN

Affinity in the pronunciation of the numerals of sixty different nations inhabiting islands in the North and South pacific, Indian, and African Oceans.

New Zealand

Tongataboo.

Fiji Group.

Tukopia New Hebrides.

Sandwich Inlands.

1

Tahi

Taha

Doua

Tassa

Tahi

2

Rua

Oua

Roua

Roua

Roua

3

Toru

Tolu

I'oulou

Toru

Toru

4

Wa

Fa

Va

Fa

Haa

5

Rima

Nima

Lima

Lima

Rima

6

Ono

Ono

Ono

Ono

Ono

7

Witu

Fitou

Vitou

Fitou

Hitou

8

Waru

Valou

Walou

Waru

Varu

9

Iwa

Iva

Diva

Siva

Iva

10

Ka te kou

Onga folou

Tini

An a foulou

Ourou

Madagascar 1600.

Madagascar
1838.

New Ireland
1600.

New Ireland
1838.

Malayan,

1

Eraiki

Rek

Tika

Tik

Satou

2

Dooe

Rua

Rou

Rou

Doua

3

Telou

Telou

Tola

Toul

Tiga

4

Epphat

Efat

Fattu

Hat

Amphat

5

Rima

Dima,

Lima

Lima

Lima

6

Hennenu

Henn

Wannua

Wann

Onam

7

Phetoo

Fitou

Fitu

His

Toudjou

8

Valou

Valou

Wala

Wai

Salapan

9

Sievee

Sivi

Sivva

Souok

Sambelan

10

Phooloo

Polou

Sanga foula

Kou songli

Poulu

Caroline Group
Bory Island.

Guebir Island.
Moluccas.

Port Davy.
New Guinea

Wagiou Island
New Guinea.

Marianne
Group Gouam.

1

1st

Sa

Ocer

Ossa

Asha

2

Rou

Sou

Sourou

Doui

Ugua

3

Iel

Toul

Kior

Kiore

Toulou

4

Fan

Fat

Fiak

Fiat

Fadfad

5

Lima

Lima

Rima

Rimu

Lima

6

Holl

Ounoum

Onanem

Onera

Gounnoum

7

Fiz

Fit

Fik

Fik

Fiti

a

Wai

Wai

Ouar

War

Goualou

9

Tihou

Siou

5iou

Sion

Sigoua

10

Sek

Otcha

Samfour

Samfour

Manaud

Celebes.

Cocoas Islands
1600.

New Guinea
1600.

Tuhaiti.

Island of Mami.

1

Essa

Taci

Kaou

Tahi

Tai

2

Roua

Loua

Roa

Roua

Loua

3

Falou

Tolu

Tolu

Todu

Tolou

4

Aphat

Fa

Wati

Haa

Fa

5

Lima

Lima

Rima

Rima

Lima

6

Anam

Hono

Eno

Ono

Oco

7

Pitou

Fitou

Wijtsou

Hitou

Fitou

8

Walou

Walou

Ejalou

Warou

Parou

9

Sio

Yvvou

Sivva

Iva

Iva

10

Poulou

Onga foulu

Sanga foulu

Ourou

Kadua

Vanikoro.

Tanema
adjacent

Taneanou
Islands.

Toupoua.

Strongs Id. or
Ualan.

1

Vamko

Kero

loune

Thika

Sha

2

Tilou

Lalu

Tilou

Iou

Lo

3

Toru

Raru

Teve

Toi

Toi

4

Telu

Rava

Teva

Djiva

Eaa

6

Tava

Tiri

Teli

Djini

Lam

6

Teli

Ro

Touo

Tchono

Oonn

7

Taouo

Roumbi

Timbi

Timbi

Ut

8

Tembi

Lembidua

Toua

Ta

Wai

9

Taoua

Tauarendi

Tindi

Toudjo

Ea

10

Kaoulanga

Indon holo

Tenahulu

Nhavi

Singoul

Friendly Islands.
1794.

New Caledo-
nia.

Island of Savu.

Tagalese.

Pampango.

1

Tahu

Nait

Tahie

Ysa

Isa

2

Houa

Doua

Roua

Dalva

Adua

3

Tolou

Quien

Tolou

Tatlo

Atlo

4

Fa

Boye

Fa

Aphat

Apat

5

Nima

Naiou

Rima

Lima

Lima

6

Ono

Quie

Ouo

Anim

Anam

7

Fidou

Dou

Fitou

Pito

Pitu

8

Valou

Guienne

Waru

Valo

Valo

9

Hiva

Bait

Ivva

Siyam

Siam

10

Onga foulou

Douninu

Anga oulu

Polo

Apulo

Sumatra

Bali.

Sunda.

Lampung.

Timuri.

1

Satu

Sa

Seji

Sai

Edu

2

Dua

Dua

Dua

Ghua

Rua

3

iTiga

Talu

Tilu

Talu

Tolo

4

Amp it

Papat

Apat

Pa

Na-ah

5

Lima

Lalima

Lima

Lima

Lima

6

Anam

Nam

Ganap

Nom

Naem

7

Tuga

Pitu.

Tuju

Pitu

Petu

8

Salapan

Rutus

Dalapan

Walu

Walu

9

Puluh

Siya

Salapan

Siwa

Siop

10

Ratus

Das a

Puluh

Puluh

Nulu

Bugis, Celebes.

Biajuk.

Majindanao.

Papua.

Java.

1

Chedi

Isa

Oser

Sa

2

Dua

Dewe

Doua

Serou

Dua

3

Tain

Telo

Tulu

Kior

Talu

4

Apa

Epat

Apat

Tiak

Hampat

5

Lima

Lime

Lima

Rim

Lima

6

Anang

Jebauen

Anom

Onim

Hanam

7

Pitu

Uju

Petu

Tik

Pitu

8

Arua

Hanya

Walou

War

Kutus

9

Asera

Jalatien

Seaowi

Siou

Sia

10

Pulo

Pulo

Pulu

Samfoor

Dasa

Madurese.

Sanscrit.

Kawt.

Pali.

Maccassar,

1

Sah

Eka

Eka

Ekka

Seere

2

Dia

Dui

Dui

Di

Rua

3

Tilu

Tri

Tui

Tri

Talu

4

Papah

Chatur

Chator

Chatwa

Ampat

5

Lalima

Pancha

Pancha

Pancha

Lima

6

Namnam

Shat

Sat

Cho

Anam

7

Papito

Sapta

Sapta

Sap

Tuji

8

Babalu

Ashta

Asta

At-tha

Delapan

9

Sasang

Nava

Nawa

Nowa

Sambilan

10

Sapuluk

Dasa

Dasa

Thotsa

Sampulu

Sasak.

Buton.

Bima.

Sumbawa.

Ende.

1

Satu

Satu

Sabua

Satu

Sa

2

Dua

Dua

Lua

Dua

Zua

3

Tilu

Tolu

Tolu

Tiga

Telu

4

Mpat

Mpat

Apat

Ampat

Wutu

5

Lima

Lima

Lima

Lima

Lima

6

Onam

Anam

Ini

Anam

Limasa

7

Pitu

Pitu

Pidu

Tuji

Limazua

8

Babre

Arua

Waru

Delapan

Ruabutu

9

Siwa

Assara

jChewi

Sambelan

Trasa

10

Sapulu

Sapulu

Sam pulu

Sapulu

Subulu

Gunung talu.

Menadu.

Ternate.

Ceram.

Sapurua.

1

Simboto

Esah

Sangir

Tekura

Isahi

2

Bulanjo

Bua

Sembua

Dua

Rua

3

Bone

Telu

Daruah

Tolu

Oru

4

Ampat

Epat

Talelu

Pat

Pa-an

5

Lima

Lima

Epa

Lim

Rima

6

Anam

Anam

Lima

Onam

Noho

7

Tuju

Pitu

Nong

Fitura

Pitu

8

Delapan

Watu

Pitu

Delapante

Warn

9

Sambilan

Siok

Walu

Sambilante

Siwa

10

Sapulu

Mapulu

Siok

Putusa

Uhu tuhi

Bisaya.

Pelew Islands.

Ulea, Caroline

Radack Chain.

Vigi, 1838.

1

Usa

Tim

Eiota

Duon

Dua

2

Dhua

Teley

Ruo

Ruo

Rua

3

Tolo

Oa

Tolu

Dillu

Dolu

4

Upat

Oim

Tua

Em men

Va

5

Lima

Malo

Lima

Lallim

Lima

6

Unum

Vis

Honu

Dildinu

Ono

7

Pito

Yoy

Feizu

Dildimen

Vitu

8

Valo

Ytiu

Warte

Eidineu

Valu

9

Siam

Magot

Hivo

Eidinem

Civa

10

Polo

Segga

Ijabudjet

Jini

* See the writings of Dr. Harrison, Marsden, Forrest, Drury, Flaccourt, Lemaire, Crawfurd, Singleton, Rocnon, Gaimard, Leyden, Raffles, Forster, D'Entrecasteaux, Bougainville, Duperrey, Arnold, Kotzebue, Artes, Wilson, Krusenstern, Labillardiere, &c.

Many of the native youths, under the instruction of the missionaries are very expert in the art of writing. I possess many letters by me, containing some pages, that place in a strong light, the intelligence and tact of the writers and their friends, in a knowledge of commercial affairs. The subjects are generally confined to the present appearance, and probable quantity, which the crops of various vegetables (potatoes, kumeras especially) will yield; the period of collecting them, the trade and clothing which the chiefs, together with the free and bonded class, will require, with an exhortation (off repeated) not to fail in providing the articles by the time of harvest, concluding with a request for an advance of certain goods; to be paid for, at the earliest opportunity in the produce of their farms.

Playing upon words, and quick repetitions of

PLAY UPON WORDS.

the same, substituting (for example) the letter f at the commencement, also forms an amusement to the young men; thus the numerals are pronounced foti, forua, fotoru, fawa fadima, &c, and are often repeated by a company, combining together, for their harmless gratification.

1 See Malte Brun, t.2, 616.

CHAPTER X

CHAPTER X.

Decrease of the flax trade – Difficulties incident to the life of a flax collector – Capture of Thomas Ralph by hostile tribes – His sufferings – Risk of life and property among the natives – Siege and reduction of a native fortification – Attempt on an encampment of Europeans and native tribes – Treachery of the warriors – Conduct of the belligerents during a siege – Cruelty of conquerors, their cowardice and cannibalism.

The decrease of the flax trade has been very rapid within the last eight years, and whereas in 1831, not less than a thousand tons of shipping were cleared within fourteen days, from the Custom house of Port Jackson, yet, from the unceasing wars of the natives, which prevents that article from being dressed by them, scarcely one hundred tons of vessels would now be cleared

FLAX TRADE,

from Sydney in six months, expressly for that staple article of export, and in consequence would be no longer in demand at Port Jackson, did not shipping call on the ports where the flax was formerly procured in abundance, on their way to procure a cargo of fish oils, from gangs of whalers stationed in different parts of the coast of the islands, who are employed on this service by enterprising colonists of the above mentioned port.

I may name one merchant who has given every possible impetus to the flax trade, Richard Jones, Esq. Member of the Colonial Legislative Council, whose unceasing exertions, in honourable enterprise, entitles him to a distinct acknowledgement; this gentleman has been minus of many thousand pounds, in the prosecution of this losing trade, as it has proved for many years past. As far back as 1830, another trader in this export shewed me his calculations on the expences, and profits attached to the procuring of flax. He employed two collectors to reside among the natives, on whose diligence he placed much reliance, and in twelve months they had only collected one hundred and sixty tons, most of which was very ill dressed and some of it useless.

ITS LOSSES

expences of a small brig, charter, &c.

1600 pounds

Collectors' salaries......

140

Cost of the article at the lowest rate

5 pounds per ton........

800

Insurance charges, stowage, &c.

230

2770

Value in Sydney cash at 17 pounds per ton

2720

Loss

50

The difficulties with which European flax collectors have had to contend in pursuance of their duties to the merchants who employed them, while residing among the natives, have been so manifold, that a recital of many of their hardships would never obtain credit among the "gentlemen of England, who live at home at ease."

Among the least incredible, 1 will mention the sufferings undergone by Mr. Thomas Ralph, a young man respectably connected in Sydney, at the period referred to in the employ of Messrs Montefiore and Co. of Port Jackson. At the time I received this narrative in August 1836, Ralph was in the employ of the same firm, at Uwoua, as flax agent.

DISPOSITIONS OF

In January 1832 he resided on the banks of the river Mukou in latitude 38 deg. 30' on the west coast. The tribe among whom he was stationed are known by the patronymic of Maniapoto. In conjunction with the numerous tribes on the river Waikato, they had proceeded to make war on the natives who resided south of Mukou, near to Taranaki, on the coast of Cape Egmont. No particular causes for hostilities existed at the time, unless the ancient custom of utu or retaliation, for the death and actual devouring of some of the ancestors of the war party. The opportunity afforded of a voluptuous banquet, and the collecting a number of slaves – chances that a native can scarce ever resist at any time – proved very attractive in this instance, as the force congregated together amounted to nearly four thousand men; but the arbitrary dispositions of the several leaders, would, on the slightest clashing of mutual interests, in the possession of a slave for instance, turn round to war against each other with the same implacable and sanguinary animosity, during or after the campaign, as they now felt towards the enemy, that had thus combined them together.

Ralph was deserted by his tribe, who left behind them Only two old men, and a decrepid

WARLIKE TRIBES.

woman. The pa, thus left unprotected, induced a large party from near the river Autia in about latitude 38 deg. to make a descent on the villages of the absent enemy. This attempt was put into execution, and one evening early, after the departure of the Maniapoto, this hostile force arrived in great numbers, and surrounded the house in which Ralph and his native wife resided. The two old sages left in the village effected their escape, but the aged woman they slaughtered and devoured. Night setting in, these plunderers were afraid to attack the lonely cottage; but contented themselves with cutting off every chance of escape to the inmates. At day-break a serious quarrel arose among the tribes, respecting the person of the white man, the major party insisting on his death, that each chief might have a portion of his body; others with not less interested motives, proposed carrying him prisoner to Kawia; and, selling him as a slave, obtain a large price from his countrymen, which would answer for division among themselves. Ralph kept within the house until their fury had subsided, each individual having something to say on the subject, and every one vociferating his opinions at the same moment. He was called forth, and on appearing before these hordes, he was in the hazard of

WANTON CRUELTIES

being killed in the skirmish that ensued for the possession of his person. His death was again resolved on, but, with the usual fickleness of the people, was deferred, one chief intimating, if the Maniapoto killed any Europeans on their route, Ralph should be sacrificed to the atua. His wife who was daughter to a principal chief of the absentees, was forcibly separated from him, nor was he permitted to speak a word to her, whose ultimate fate must remain unmentioned. A rush was then made at the house which was broken in at every point, the many articles of merchandize plundered, and the flax store containing nearly twenty tons of that material, the property of Messrs. Montefiore and Co. wantonly burnt by the multitude. They proceeded to strip Ralph of his clothes, leaving him in his shirt only. After stripping the villages, and setting fire to the huts, they departed for their settlements, forcibly compelling Ralph to travel with them in the wretched condition he was in. The slaves were made to carry the plunder.

In this journey through the almost impenetrable thickets of the New Zealand forests and bushes, the barefooted Englishman was necessitated to undergo almost incredible hardships, and rocky places which the accustomed natives can scarcely tread

OF THE PLUNDERERS.

without feeling the unpleasant effects, completely lamed the hapless man. When the natives had food for themselves, they gave Ralph a share, but this allowance was but scanty, as is invariably the case with a wild horde of savages, without any foresight or resources to meet such privations. Fern root procured along the road and a few unripe potatoes, dug up from the plantations of the people they had plundered, were their sole sustenance. In vain Ralph requested the chief to let him make his way to the banks of the Kawia, and promised to procure them any ransom they chose to name. This was sternly refused; he then tried by every possible method, with insults, then cowardice, to cause them to finish their barbarity by putting a period to his existence with the friendly tomahawk; – this had no effect; as they observed, his life as a slave was infinitely more serviceable to them than his death, as in the latter event quarrels would arise among these easily excited and irritable people in the apportioning of his body. The torments he suffered among these marauders caused him to attempt his escape, which he accomplished one night, proceeding some distance; but his want of knowing the localities around Kawia, whither he proposed to direct his way, caused him to lose the track, and early next morning

SAVAGE CONDUCT

he heard the shouts of the natives, and soon perceived his pursuers running after him with the impetuous fury of blood hounds. About twenty of these savages now came up with him, and though alone and an unarmed man, approached him with trepidation, advancing with uplifted tomahawks. He would have been sacrificed on the spot, but a young chief interfered, by throwing him down, and, placing himself on the prostrate body of Ralph, saved his life. The shirt formerly left him, was now taken from him, and a filthy remnant of matting was thrown to him in exchange; he was then compelled to return, and his death was at once resolved on. As he was sitting on the ground eating a few potatoes that had been thrown to him, a common person stole silently behind him, pointed the muzzle of a musket close to Ralph's head, snapped the lock, but the piece missed fire; a repetition was about being attempted, when a chief took away the piece and saved him. He again prayed them to put an end to his misery, feeling regardless of life, worn to a skeleton with the hardships he had undergone, and lacerated from head to foot with the hard usage he had received. He at length arrived at the settlement of these savages, and shortly after sent a messenger to Captain Kent, who resided on the Kawia river,

0F THE NATIVES.

to inform that gentleman of his capture, who immediately furnished him with the means of ransom, and after some delays, he was permitted to join his deliverer.

The little dependence Europeans could place on the natives to the southward is further illustrated in the proceedings of the combined forces of Mukou and Waikato, whose absence proved so disastrous to Ralph. In November, 1831, some natives of Waikato arrived in two canoes at Taranaki, under the pretence of purchasing some dried fish of a particular kind, only found on that part of the coast. The strangers were well received, every kindness was shown to them, and previously to their departure, the two canoes they had arrived in were repaired and filled with presents of the fish in request, and other provisions. These strangers were sent as spies, to ascertain the strength of the defences at Taranaki. The natives of the place had not the slightest fears as to the results of the visit, as between the tribes of the strangers and their own there had been peace for a long period.

About a month after the visit had taken place, the latter tribes were alarmed by observing the numerous fires of an enemy at a trifling distance from their village. The number of the entire people around might amount to

BATTLING TRIBES.

three thousand persons; they immediately mustered together to give battle, but as soon as they ascertained the number of their foes to be superior to their own, (who from their disorderly movements might have been easily discomfited), they felt deterred from proceeding, and hastily retreated to their fortification called Pukerangiora, and without considering their own numerical force, were so improvident as to fail taking up their potatoes and other edibles in the plantations, whereby they weakened themselves in proportion as they strengthened the enemy, as the crops were nearly ripe. The latter captured some men, whom they killed, sacrificing them to Tu, the god of war, and Wiro, the evil spirit. They also caught about twenty-five persons, who were returning from a distant village; these were also slain and devoured by the chief men. They laid waste moreover to every place they could get within reach of; burning the sacred places and cemeteries, and committing with impunity every barbarity, man, in any state, is capable of. A river intersected the road that led to the fortification, and when the enemy waded over, another opportunity was afforded the besieged of destroying and making prisoners a number of the enemy without any difficulty, scattered as

FLIGHT AND CAPTURE.

they were on either side the river; but the wretched Taranaki people were paralysed with fear, and without the power of resistance. The enemy attempted, after landing, to storm the pa, but failed in effecting their purpose, losing four chiefs and several of inferior grade. In different assaults that were made by the enemy in twelve days, they lost thirty-six of their people.

During this protracted period, the besieged were suffering all the horrors of a dreadful famine. The provisions, originally but scanty, had been early consumed with the usual improvidence of those people. Their condition was truly wretched. Starvation having reduced them to the lowest ebb of despondance, their ultimate fate was hastened by their own acts of imprudence and folly; for instead of leaving the now useless defences under cover of the night, which was the only means left them for escape, like deranged people, they threw down the fences and palings of the pa in the day time, in view of their enemies, every one running away in the greatest disorder and confusion, in all directions. The vigilant enemy speedily discovered the state of the besieged, and instantly, with horrid yells, gave chase, and soon came up with the famished wretches, who had neither strength nor power to defend themselves; they fell like hares

FATE OF THE BESIEGED.

before the pursuing hounds, neither age nor sex being spared. Numbers of these hapless people threw their children from the steep hill, on which their pa was situated, into the deep river that wound its way at the foot of the hill below, which is washed in its course into the ocean; many parents followed – such horror have the people of the dreadful fate of being devoured. About twelve hundred persons were either killed or captured. These latter were huddled into small huts, and carefully guarded by ruffians with sharpened tomahawks. The conquerors glutted themselves with the bodies of the slain, lying in gore about the plain below and on the sides of the hill, until their brutal lust was satisfied. The next day the unfortunate prisoners were brought out, and those among them, whose faces were well tatooed, were decapitated on a block of wood; others, who had undergone but little of that operation, were immediately killed by a blow on the skull. Every cruelty that malicious revenge could dictate, was put in practise for the amusement of these sanguinary wretches. I may only add that a similarly terrific fate that deprived our second Edward of his life, these wanton savages also put in practice. The trunkless bodies were thrown across a trench, to carry off

HORRORS OF WAR.

the blood that bedabbled the country around for some miles. Nearly four hundred were butchered the first morning after the victory. Young children and lads were cut open by incisions made hastily down the stomach, eviscerated and roasted on sticks placed round large fires made of the fences of the dismantled pa. A similar massacre to that in the morning, took place in the afternoon, and many of the tribes satiated themselves in these shambles to such a degree, that numbers never recovered from the effects of this abhorrent gluttony.

In all these battles the bodies of relatives are eaten, not from any previous determination so to do, on the contrary, these people observe, that they have an intuitive horror for any act of the kind; but as both parties in the confusion of a skirmish behead their prisoners to preserve them as trophies, and all the combatants being in nudity, it is impossible, in many instances, to distinguish a friend from a foe. Several mounds of human bones were collected and burnt on the place, and some time elapsed before the ashes of these tumuli, remnants of mortality, were afterwards gathered and burned. The cannibal feasts were devoured with the heads of the slain placed on sticks,

TREACHERY AND INGRATITUDE.

thrust perpendicularly into the ground, facing the victors; the most insulting expressions were uttered by these fiend-like beings, addressing the lifeless heads as if they were capable of attending to a human sound. Before leaving this scene of their success, their superstitious feelings triumphed over their animosity, and they erected, on various places for many miles around, where the unnatural banquets had taken place, raouis, or monumental sticks, to denote the spot, where an enemy, though remembered as having been a former friend and perhaps a relative, had been slain and eaten.

The emaciated remnant that effected their escape by flight from the slaughter at Pukerangiora, hastened to the nearest villages of their neighbours detailed their grievances, and were taken in by those friends, who, on opening their gates to receive them, were fallen upon by the ungrateful runaways, who found the members of these friendly tribes much less than the quantity they could number; killed and devoured them, exhibiting the innate treachery of these people even when oppressed with unparalleled distresses.

The Waikato and Mukou tribes proposed attacking a pa to the southward of the one they had already destroyed, in which were stationed

ANOTHER ATTACK.

eleven Europeans and three hundred and fifty natives. The difference of numerical force was so much in favour of the former tribes, that the proposition met with universal approbation, notwithstanding the Europeans, though few in number, were regarded with dread, and by others with hesitating fear, especially as they were in possession of four small field pieces. It Was therefore arranged by the allies, not to attack the pa openly as they did the last, but accomplish their ends by treachery, or at all events to try it. The allied troops were discovered at day-break from the pa, which, being situated on a high hill commanded a view of the sea beech for many miles. They were making their way over the sandy shore in the disorderly, slovenly manner of these perverse people, who are unable to follow training among themselves. The pa rang with the alarm, "e tawa! e tawa!" "a fight, a war;" the inmates instantly hastened to the plantations, dug up all their still unripe provisions, and housed them in the pa, before the enemy had time to intercept them, and with the advice of the Englishmen, banked their rush houses with clay, to prevent the balls of the assailants from taking effect. This precaution was found to be of essential service.

The Englishmen cast lots as to manning the

NEW ZEALAND

guns, and they took their stations, placing each field piece in the most advantageous place. They possessed no fit ammunition; only pieces of iron hoop, and stones were made use of; they requested the natives to follow their advice, and not fear the superior number of their enemies against them, who, on arriving near the vicinity of the pa, perceiving that preparations had been made to receive them, halted for a consultation how they should proceed. The Europeans were not idle, giving directions to their native friends how to ensure these marauders a warm reception. A Waikato chief quitted his party, stepping forward unaccompanied, waving his mat as a signal for a parley; he was soon joined by a chief from the pa. On meeting, the two hostile commanders sat down on the sand, saluted each other, and commenced the "tangi," used by the most endeared friends meeting each other. They talked of former times, and of the ancient friendship that had existed among the tribes. The resident chief enquired what had his people committed that they should now be sought after to be annihilated similar to the natives of Pukerangiora, of whose fall they had heard. Were they not related to each other? Did not the same ancestors bring them forth? Was not the country large enough for either

WARFARE.

party, and were they not weakening themselves? Would not the new people, the white men overrun the land? and why destroy the few that could make head against them? Why should he and his tribe be made slaves to those to whom they had formerly given freedom? (as had been the case in a former war). Were the Europeans not to be feared, that even when they were dead, a native could not eat their remains without feeling painful fears of the wrath of their atua, and instanced where some Europeans had been killed at Taranaki, and devoured, except the right hands, which had performed acts of bravery ! Much conversation passed of a similar nature, on which, at separating, they embraced each other, the Waikato chief exclaiming, "Well, we will have peace, and before we part admit us into your pa, that we may embrace our friends and swear mutual amity, and it will be the means to cement our future friendship." To this the Taranaki chief would not consent; it was then agreed, between the chiefs, that an armistice should exist between both parties for some days.

Within the hour, the truce was broken by the enemy, who rushed forward, and commenced the war dance, in front of the pa, this was received by the natives within the defences with

RESPECTFUL DISCHARGES.

different emotions, some of them hailed it as glad tidings of a peace; others more prudent, regarded it as the signal prelude to battle, and prepared themselves accordingly; the Europeans joined in the sentiments of the latter class, as the war dance is performed with the same words and gestures as a prelude before a war interlude in the middle of the melee, or as an afterpiece at the close. When the dance ceased with its discordant din, an immediate rush was made on the pa, accompanied with a heavy discharge of fire-arms, which are afterwards thrown behind them by the warriors, on which they are picked up by the slaves or wives of the owners, who follow their husbands and lovers for the purpose, and to pick up such heads as are decollated during the contest. This movement quickly undeceived the besiegers, who instantly rallied, and caused the enemy to retreat with some killed and wounded, carrying their dead along with them. The besieged lost a few also; some skirmishes took place, but the parties fired at a pleasing distance, and then hastened within their entrenchments.

The next day several shots were again exchanged with similar feelings of mutual accommodation. One chief of the Taranaki party, seized with a fit of valour, ran towards the enemy, and suddenly

DISTRESSING SCENE.

stopping, discharged the piece, and as hastily ran back; but not before a ball was lodged in his back, and as he fell, his party from the pa, rushed forward to protect the dying man from being taken by the enemy, which caused a skirmish between the belligerents, wherein some few were killed and made prisoners on either side, during which the body of the chief, who had died, was carried into the pa. His frantic widows threw themselves around the inanimate remains, tearing their hair, and excoriating themselves, until they were undistinguishable from blood and filth; they were immediately tapued to attend on his funeral rites A number of relatives of the deceased, joined the widows in their lamentations over the deceased. They all huddled together, covering themselves with mats, mingling their blood with tears, yelling in tones of distraction and sorrow, that refused being comforted.

Several chiefs of the Waikato tribe who were known to be most bitterly disposed to the besieged, paid them a visit in the pa, and entered into conversation, as if they possessed sentiments of the purest affection towards each other. This singular feature in the wars of the New Zealanders has always existed, and advantage is seldom taken, of the many persons

WARFARE AMONG

placing themselves in the grasp of their bitterest foes. In the interchange of visits in this instance, the subject spoken of, was generally the indomitable and unheard of feats of arms performed by each other, during the morning's battle, or talking quietly over the plans intended to be practised against each other for the future. One valuable circumstance arises for their mutual benefit, namely, that each party are so busily engaged in the discussion of their own important intentions, that the advantage to be derived from such ridiculous and almost incredible confidence is thus lost. The enemy were politely handed to view the guns; the few muskets they possessed, in comparison with their assailants, was also fully discussed; the entrenchments and weakness of the defenses were pointed out, so that those Europeans who had never been accustomed to the political regime of this people, could scarce believe the evidence of their eyes, and listened with undisguised astonishment at the madness and indiscreet folly of their friends.

A surrender was now proposed by the Waikato chiefs, which had been probably accepted by the simple besieged, but for the prudence of the English, who knew well the signification of a native "crowning mercy." On the fourth day of the siege, a slave carried a message to

THE ABORIGINES.

the pa appointing a meeting between the head chief of the Waikato party and the general in chief of the Taranaki people; – it was agreed to. They met on the sea shore, opposite to the pa, mutually expressed much concern, and conversed very affectionately together, apparently both inclined for a lasting reconciliation. The Waikato chief pretended to feel ashamed at the duplicity he had hitherto made use of, and promised to withdraw his forces immediately. As soon as this news spread in the pa, a number of the inhabitants determined to invite the Waikato tribes to join in a friendly dance with them, but the greater number were apprehensive of treachery. This difference of opinions, was the source of much quarrelling; one man who had disputed with his wife threw himself into a large fire, and was nearly roasted; he was the son of a principal chief and died some days after; two sisters had a severe fracas on the subject, one of whom, a married woman, who had spoken in favour of the Waikato party, ran out of the pa towards the people whose part she had espoused, and whose pretended friendship caused these quarrels; but their affections thus put to the test, was shewn the moment they caught the woman, as her body was cut in pieces in view of the pa, and

ATTEMPTS OF THE ENEMY.

the mangled parts washed in the river, thus tapuing the water, which prohibited the besieged from making use of the only liquid sustenance they possessed.

Having thrown off the mask, an assault was again made on the pa, whose inhabitants, detesting the treachery of their enemy, manfully resisted, assisted by the Europeans, in defence of their lives and property The enemy next attempted to undermine the fences, by digging away the earth; but the natives within excavated a new line of trench, for the fortification, and frustrated their intentions. The enemy then threw fire brands over the palings, on the rush houses; in this they were defeated by the vigilance of the natives, and the carefulness of the Englishmen. The Waikatos, in several assaults, lost men daily; in vain they pretended regret for what they had done, suing for peace and friendship. The simple besieged in general believed what was said, and felt inclined to trust to the perfidious professions of their enemies, whose sanguinary souls were thirsting for their prey; the place was often on the eve of being surrendered, but for the interference of the white men, who knew the fate that awaited themselves and their native colleagues, if the place was given up.

The assaults were still made, and the losses

DEFEATED.

were principally on the side of the assailants, when the schooner "Currency Lass," of Port Jackson, arrived in the river and cast anchor. This vessel had put into the place to load with a cargo of flax for Sydney, and bring to the European collectors fresh supplies of trade and provisions. The hostile natives attempted to board the vessel and capture her, but were prevented by the vigilant conduct of the master. These natives being unable to accomplish their purpose, were determined to cut off all communication between the Englishmen and the vessel; this conduct was the more annoying, as these unfortunate traders had been for some months out of necessary supplies; however, one of them a Mr. Love (no relative to the Pathian deity), effected a passage on board. He was saluted with a shower of bullets, all of which passed quite close enough. The natives are seldom found to be very good marksmen. On getting on board, he stated to the master how circumstances stood, and advised him to put to sea, lest the vessel should be captured. On the collector returning on shore he was saluted with another discharge of musketry, which was attended with the same futile results as the former salute.

A messenger was sent to the same Englishman from the Waikato chief, to request that

FRESH DISCUSSIONS.

person to meet him on board the schooner, without attendants on either side. Mr. H. met the chief, and a long but useless converse took place between them, relative to a suspension of hostilities; but the chief was determined to take the pa, kill the white men, preserve their heads and sell them. This great man was informed, that the Europeans were perfectly satisfied with the position their heads occupied at the time, and they even presumed to think, that they appeared to better advantage on their shoulders, than they could possibly do on sticks as was proposed; they had no ambition to add theirs to the very large collection that had been formed from the luckless tribes of Pukerangiora; but though the numbers of the enemy's forces were eight to one, they were all determined to a man not to surrender, even were they reduced to a fourth of their present number. The chief promised he would give his decision on the ensuing day and would meet him alone on the beech.

Mr. Love informed his friends of the conversation, and it was agreed to enter into no treaty with so perfidious and hostile a horde, as it was well known that honour (said to exist among thieves) did not much oppress the native breast, and nothing less than their departure should restore peace. Mr. Love met

A PA DURING A CAMPAIGN.

the chief on the following day, and the subject was discussed. The chief now told his auditor he would promise to take the white men only as slaves to Kawia, which doubtless he thought a very merciful commutation, that would be listened to with gladness, and prepared himself to receive appropriate thanks; but the Englishman remembered the race is not for the swift, nor the battle for the strong, and reminded the elder that people in general require to catch even a pigeon, before they can decide on his ultimate fate.

In vain this old fowler tried to inveigle the European among his party; he had not sufficient strength to use force, and they parted for the last time, the wily savage being unable to lull the suspicions of the sagacious trader.

The noise and bustle of a pa during a campaign is almost past endurance; the continual discharge of artillery, shouting, quarrelling, each giving an opinion how military tactics ought to be conducted, others loudly relating what they had performed, or intended to have done, in many cases tantamount to the same thing; the ariolations of the venerable priests, warriors running to have their fortunes told, others making their wills without giving

STRANGE CONDUCT

their legatees the remotest chance of enjoying the goods and chattels bequeathed.

The Europeans were now perfectly miserable. Fatigued by continual watching, and fearful of a Surprise, they sincerely wished for a pitched battle that their fate might be decided, their own party of natives giving them no less anxiety than their avowed enemies without the pa; they were continually harassed by their mutual jealousies, want of confidence, courage and manliness. No sentinel was kept in the pa, the natives slept as comfortably in the bushes or within the trenches, as if they had no enemy to disturb their equanimity; nothing less than a musket discharged close to their ears would wake them. Strange as this conduct may appear, in resigning themselves to sleep within a few yards of their enemy, whose success, according to a New Zealander is loss of life and soul, yet we have only to reflect how soon danger or, to say the least, calamities lose their poignant effects on us.

Perhaps one of the greatest blessings vouchsafed to us is the transient grief that oppresses mankind in the loss of those persons or things they love best. Were the first emotions of unutterable sorrow to remain indelible in our

OF THE BESIEGED.

bosoms, the mind and body would be speedily borne down by the burthensome weight, and death would early triumph over our mortal sufferings. Our feelings are soothed, in a similar manner, in respect to old age. How bitterly unpleasant would our fate appear if we were made suddenly aware of the infirmities consequent on a prolonged existence; at an age when in full possession of all our faculties, a kind Creator, with his usual beneficence, has caused this second childhood to steal on us so gradually, that, gentle reader, if you deserve the appellation, doubtless on our reaching the advanced age of eighty, we shall feel just as loath to bid adieu to this "world of sorrows and temptation," as we should feel now at the age of – I say thirty-one, state what you please. I must beg pardon for this digression, but really the natives going to sleep at such a period is enough to vex a saint.

I have mentioned the intercourse that takes place between the hostile parties, during a campaign; but a system of trade is also carried on that will appear less credible. The Waikato and Mukou natives possessed among them from three to four thousand muskets, partly originally purchased by them, and also the spoils of the Pukerangiora natives. The Taranaki people

WARFARE CONTINUED.

could scarce muster a hundred of these weapons, and there was a consequent demand for them in the pa; the latter were soon supplied with as many of them as they required, and powder also by their enemies, who sold those deadly instruments that would hasten their own destruction, for blankets, etc. This fact is of continual occurrence among these singular people. The Englishmen purchased also many similar weapons at a very low rate, for tobacco, blankets, etc. Many skirmishes took place outside the defences, while some of the warriors of both parties were driving bargains within the pa – such is the inconsistency of the New Zealanders.

The allies without were not idle during this period, they built high mounds of clay and fern root for the purpose of covering themselves from the stones ejected from the cannon, which were not very effective against the enemy. These merlons, or parapets, were also of much service in overlooking the defences, and discharging their fire-arms into the pa, which rendered it dangerous to appear or walk about; but when a European was seen, his presence was hailed with a shower of balls. One day while a brisk trade was carried on between the besiegers and the besieged, a dispute arose respecting a musket and its payment in barter; a quarrel ensued among

THE BLOCKADE.

these easily excited people, and three of the Waikato party were killed; they were immediately cut up, roasted and sacrificed to the atua or taken as tithes to satiate the voracity of the priests. The next day, during an assault, one of the field pieces burst, without materially injuring any person. This was a sad mishap, none of the priests had prophecied it. As early as the news reached the enemy, they girded up their loins and felt renovated in spirits, which had by this time fallen somewhat below zero. They informed the people of the pa, that they intended to lie in ambush early next morning, (this fact can be vouched for, however irreconciliable with common policy it may appear). The tidings were received at the pa, with apathy by the natives, who at night rolled themselves in their mats and slept with their usual comfort in the trenches. Not so the Europeans, who were not unmindful that the enemy had blockaded the place full three weeks, and that their patience was now exhausted, they had also heard of the destruction of the villages at Mukou, and knew that their food was now exhausted, not a slave existing who could be cut up into rations by their commissariat. This tedious night was spent in agony by this little band of Englishmen who felt conscious the morrow would decide their fate.

THE SKIRMISH.

They had been informed that they were to be devoured, and the chiefs were pointed out to them into whose possession their heads were to be given and preserved by the process of steaming. Their native wives and little ones were also apportioned to these blood-thirsting chiefs.

At the earliest dawn the pa was assaulted, by the whole body of the enemy making a rush on the fences, hewing them down with axes and tomahawks, shouting the terrific yells that accompany the war song, screeching in savage chorus. The besieged were awoke out of their sleep gaping with stupid surprise; but a small band of brave fellows gave battle to the enemy, many of whom had forced their way within the pa but were immediately cut off. The intrepid Europeans seconded them; the intrenchments were forced a second time, but much courage was displayed by about a hundred of the pa natives, who were roused to the fury of maniacs, and dealt unerring blows that mowed down the assailants, who charged again, but in vain. The three guns were plied pretty well until the allies gave back, and shortly after ran away hauling their dead chiefs along with them. They were not pursued, as the numbers of the victors were too few. Those of the enemy who

THE DEFEAT.

were slightly wounded but unable to follow their friends, were carried by two or three of their comrades, but they were soon placed on the ground, from the fear that attacked the whole body of these flying cowards. The skirmish did not continue longer than half an hour, when the enemy took to flight and pursued their way with all speed towards the northward. Many of the wounded were strewed about within the entrenchments; these were speedily killed, and cooked in the ovens.

After some time had elapsed, the inmates of the pa left the entrenchments stealthily, fearing an ambush of the enemy, who were at the time some miles distant on their way to the settlements of the tribes. They had left behind them near three hundred and fifty killed and wounded. When it was ascertained that the coast was cleared of the runaways, all the inhabitants rushed out to seek for prey. The sight, to the Englishmen, was revolting. Bodies, half roasted, were flung across the fires; others, yet breathing, lying in puddles of gore and filth: the effluvium around was almost unbearable. Many prisoners, but slightly disabled, were put to death with dreadful tortures; some being dragged and thrown alive on the large fires kindled by the enemy,

CRUELTIES PRACTISED

and afterwards devoured with every mark of delight, sensuality, and satisfaction.

The brutalities exercised on the unfortunate wretches that thus fell into their hands, are of too horrible a nature to relate; a parallel may be found in Bryan Edward's narrative of the wars between the French and Haytians, in St. Domingo. One of the victors, a monster of iniquity, made one of the enemy fast to a gun, having captured him while in the act of escaping from the pa after the battle; he unloosened the fastenings, and demanded of the hapless being, what the enemy intended to do next; he received no answer, as the prisoner knew his doom was fixed; a tomahawk was held forcibly between his teeth, and an incision pierced in his throat, from which this vampire slowly drank the blood. The prisoner, it is said, did not blench from the torture; his body was quartered and the heart was sent, as a present, to an elderly chief as a delicious morsel.

A traitor, who had partly betrayed the pa at Pukerangiora, entered the camp. He came to see his wife and children, but was seized and made to suffer the dreadful torments just described. The appearance the pa now made, was a sickening punishment for the Englishmen;

BY THE WARRIORS.

bodies cut in pieces hanging opposite every house, disgusting to behold, covered with the many gad-flies that swarm at this period of the year, (February). The entrails of so many human beings lying about in every direction, on which the dogs were feeding, together with the sanguinary appearance of these extensive shambles, prevented the Englishmen from pursuing their usual avocations for some time. They had some difficulty in preventing their servant boys bringing pieces of the horrid viands into their kitchens, and within their fences. The enemy had buried many of their friends; those bodies were dug up in their decomposed state and devoured. The Taranaki people lost thirteen chiefs in the war. These were buried with all due honours, and eight muskets with a quantity of leaden balls, cartridge paper, and charges of powder, were buried with each person. This is called a tawa moa, or sacred fight, as it is supposed to be necessary for a chief to be provided with arms and ammunition to fight his way to the Reinga. On the burial of each chief, ten slaves were murdered, to serve the wairua, or spirit of the warrior in the next world.

If the above instances of barbarity are disgusting to recount, the conduct of the enemy was not

SAVAGE BARBARITY.

less so. One fiend, for such revolting crimes are almost beyond the actions of human beings, ordered a young female slave to make a very large oven, as he intended to regale his friends with a feast. The girl procured the wood and heated the stones red hot for the purpose; she went to the savage and told him she had obeyed his orders, and enquired what provisions should be put in; he peremptorily ordered herself to go into it. The poor creature threw herself before him, clasped his knees, and in an agony of tears and frantic grief, besought his pity; the relentless wretch seized her, lashed her hands and knees together, and threw her in the oven alive. After the body was cooked, it was devoured by this monster and his friends. My informant, who was one of the traders on the spot, added that, to this remorseless chief was appropriated one of the Englishmen had the pa been taken. The intentions of these ruthless hordes, had success attended their arms, was to have made the several traders carry the roasted flesh of their enemies, and, on their arrival at the settlements, to have put them to the severest tortures, by every possible invention, devour their bodies, and preserve their heads. They were not silent as to their intentions, even in the hearing

SAVAGE BARBARITY.

of their intended victims, which, not a little, raised the determined animosity of the latter, and induced them to give those inimical hordes a reception they never calculated to receive.

CHAPTER XI

CHAPTER XI.

On colonization – Diminution of the New Zealanders – Various causes assigned – A government necessarily required – Intercourse of the British – Population – Districts wholly desolated – Tribes newly discovered – Commigration of tribes – Fickleness of the people – Further remarks on colonization – Proposals in furtherance of that object.

Much has been said and written on the propriety of colonizing the islands of New Zealand.

Similar ideas of actively forming something of the kind appears to be coeval with the earliest. knowledge that could be relied on respecting the country and its inhabitants. The celebrated hydrographer, Mr. Dalrymple, aided by the advice of Captain Cook and the philosopher Franklin, in 1771, proposed certain plans,

COLONIZATION.

whereby the New Zealanders might be advanced in comfort and civilization, and a beneficial intercourse opened between them and their more enlightened European visitors. The scheme is said to have failed, for want of pecuniary means to carry it into execution. One of the principal features of the plan was to put the natives in possession of various animals and vegetable productions hitherto unknown to the people, with the advantages of serviceable instruments of husbandry, &c, forgetting, that at that early period, the customs of the people were unknown. Had the proposed plan been entered into, it is certain, as early as their visitors departed, incessant wars would have ensued for the possession of such valued articles as might have been left by the latter; and if neither party claimed the victory, the animals would have been destroyed, either by the possessors, if their party was too weak to resist, or by one of the enemy who wished to encroach on the property. Hitherto the New Zealander has looked only for present sustenance; patriotic feelings have been entirely out of his line. So far from desiring the improvement of his country, he has hitherto fought and prayed for the extirpation, or at least, subjugation of his fellow countrymen.

COLONIZATION.

The time has now arrived for enlightened Europeans to teach them a contrary conduct. The feelings of superstition that formerly adulated the native in all his actions have gradually given way from his collision with his more civilized visitor, during a period of nearly forty years. Even in the short space of three years back, I remember a war taking place, not far distant from Kaikohi, between Hokianga and the Bay of Islands, in consequence of a pig feeding on the luxurious vegetation of a native cemetery. At the present day, in the same place, a trifling acknowledgment would be received as payment. In 1833, I have observed, I had to pay full three hundred persons to obtain permission to build a house opposite to a Wai tapu, which had not been used for many years, after first carefully fencing it. In 1837, I was requested to pull down the fencing and build or do what I pleased, as the place was pakehatea'd, or Europeanized.

Had cattle been introduced into the country, previously to the present scrambling colonization, none of the animals could have escaped death, as a penalty for committing something that affected the innumerable superstitions of the people; and it may be easily supposed, when it is impossible for a native biped to steer clear of

BARBARISM OF THE PEOPLE.

such follies, how much the more difficult for a foreign quadruped.

It is scarcely to be imagined where an European could have been found to take up his residence among a people so horribly cruel and sunk in barbarism as they were well known to be, long subsequently to the establishment of the Colony of New South Wales. To have taught the people the use of implements of husbandry was well enough, as a single lesson would have served to suffice the naturally intelligent native; but to have resided among them until the reaping of the crops! both parties would have been past patience, and the New Zealander is the most impatient being in creation.

I have stated the missionaries could not have established themselves in the country but for the previous establishment of the colony at Port Jackson, and consequent intercourse for upwards of twenty years antecedent to 1814, when the mission was established: it must also be added, that commercial persons could not have settled, in comparative quiet, among the rude inhabitants of the Bay of Islands, but for the previous efforts of the members of the Church Missionary Society, who have been, until within late years, few in number, and have had to work unceasingly, attended with many discouraging circum-

COLONIZATION.

stances, their exertions having, in a great degree, been paralised by the reckless and immoral conduct of runaway prisoners from the Australian settlements and from casual European visitors, whose conduct has often been the very reverse to that on which a civilized man may take pride to himself over the illiterate aboriginal of the land. Many of the fears, troubles, and often dangers of the missionaries are to be attributed to the gross misconduct of their lawless countrymen, and the same imminent state of insecurity has been felt by every respectable settler who has sat down on the soil, and erected a homestead in this adopted country.

The Europeans, who first colonised the country, were principally young men sent from Port Jackson to reside among the natives and supply them amply in whatever they might want in return for flax, which underwent the operation of dressing with the muscle shell. To those people must be attributed the commencement of an imperfect system of civilization in New Zealand; they distributed, generally at fair prices, blankets, and clothing suitable to the seasons; the serviceable adze, axe, tomahawks, iron-pot, hoes, spades, and that summum bonum of desire in the eyes of a native, the musket, and its accompaniments of powder, lead, bullet, moulds, &c,

STATE OF THE PEOPLE.

To those early traders it is also fair to attribute, in some degree, however trifling, a cessation of the horrid lust of cannibalism; and if the people did not forego altogether this dreadful propensity of feasting on the repulsive banquet, yet a feeling of shame, (and few people are more alive to the suffusion,) induced the native to murder his victim and subsequently to devour the body in secret, and silence. Though the fact is so glaring, that glutting themselves with human flesh is of common occurrence to the southward, even at this day, yet the younger native when owning that his parents and relatives all partake of this food, generally excludes himself from indulging in such vicious and unnatural tastes.

Many statements have been put forth by persons averse to the colonization of New Zealand; the principal of these dogmatists insist, if the European once establishes himself in the country, the native population will wholly disappear in a few years. Of course, all precedents have been arrayed in support of this side of the question, the annihilation of the ancient Mexicans, and Caribbean tribes by the Spaniards; the disappearance of North American Indian tribes, by the colonial hordes from France, Spain, Holland, Great Britain, and even

COLONIZATION.

Sweden, though Christina's colony was perhaps least offensive of any, the Dutch in Java, the Moluccas and south Africa, the Portuguese in India, and the Brazils, the Russians among the Kamptscadales, and nearer home to our colonial sins, the utter expatriation of the small remnant of the tribes of Van Dieman's land, to Great Island in Bass' Straight, and the continued decrease of the natives of New Holland. It is impossible to deny the truth of all these enormities, that have been said to have been perpetrated long since, or what is actually being committed at the present day, whether the Spaniards imported invoices of gridirons in Peru, to canonise their neophytes a la St. Lawrence, or another nation less antique, colonising Poland, (East Prussia I should say) with Germans; but it must be distinctly averred that the people now treated of, are unlike any of the aboriginal tribes alluded to above, whether their territory has been colonised by art or force; and I scarcely believe that any one person who has visited New Zealand, and spoken his feelings unbiassed by interest, and knowing the tenacious character of the people, ever felt the slightest fear of their welfare being affected by colonization being introduced in the liberal views by which the parliamentary proceedings are at the present day so justly distinguished.

ANCIENT BRITONS.

The New Zealander can be compared only to the ancient Briton – the former less influenced by his native tohunga, than the latter by his Druid; if I have compared the country in another place to "aunciente Albione," in vain may we search through antiquity for a nation more similar in customs and habits to these people than the Britons were in the days of Julius Caesar. What the Briton was to the author of the immortal "Commentaries," so is this antipodal barbarian to us; and the resemblances that can be instituted in many minor matters, such as painting, carving ornaments, &c. are too numerous to particularize.

Far from declining before the advance of civilization, these people join with us hand in hand. No cultivated nation, in any quarter of the globe, have a more rooted passion for commercial pursuits than these people. All strangers who have had any dealings with them, must be assured of this fact. The native will not scruple to dispose of his landed possessions, his slaves; even his veneration for the burying places of his ancestors will give way for an utu or payment, and doubtless many a village pastor would be had at a bien bon marche, if his kindly flock had the power of disposing of him, perfectly inclined as the native often is to sell that which does

COLONIZATION.

not appertain to him. He will often fall into the opposite extreme by actually disposing of himself and services, for a certain period, for, as Trapbois terms it, "a consideration," previously assured that his purchaser for the time being, has no similar gout for anthropophagy.

It will be demanded, after these people dispose of their land to the colonists, what will be their ultimate fate? I would say, no uncivilized nation would sooner amalgamate with a superior people; let their lands, especially such as lie dormant to them, be fairly and justly purchased; not as the North American Indians have been treated, sacrificed to the subordinate agents of the government of the United States, as is practiced at the present day, and from which has arisen the Seminole war yet raging in the wildernesses of Florida. The chiefs should be paid for their property so as to receive comfortable annuities, whereby they would be enabled to provide for their children, also in letting their slaves as farm servants, or as sailors, as is their common wont at present, which would enable the latter to purchase their freedom after a certain term of servitude. Many natives of the various classes of the country would attach themselves from a bias towards the pursuit of the nautical profession; some hundreds are at present employed

STATE OF THE PEOPLE.

in the British and American whale fishery, and are regarded by liberal minded men, equal in their duties to Europeans, as effective in ability and strength, while dieting on similar nourishing provisions.

A New Zealander, a native of Waitangi in the Bay of Islands, who has adopted the English patronymic of Baily, has risen from cabin boy to the situation of chief officer, having passed through all the intermediate grades, and has fulfilled that office for some years past, on board the British whaling bark, "Earl Stanhope," of London; but being a foreigner, he is debarred having the command of a ship, otherwise he is able to fill such an appointment. He is tattoed. His pecuniary allowance or share of the oil procured, is equal to that bestowed on that class of officers sailing out of Port Jackson he regrets much the degraded state of his countrymen, and feels assured of yet seeing their political regeneration from barbarism.

The bulk of the people would decidedly take to farming, in which they would be found most useful to the colonist; their own plantations have ever been cultivated with a degree of neatness unsurpassed by the generality of Europeans, and their defects in the art of farming, as relates to a diminution of labour, does not de-

DECRESCENCE OF TRIBES.

teriorate from the general neatness of their farms. The example that would be set before these people of British industry and activity; the aids they would receive by the plough and cattle, would, in a very short time, wholly eradicate from the inactive but stirring mind of the New Zealander, those gloomy thoughts that now dispose him, to war alike against his nearest kindred, or his enemy, and which so materially tends to the declension of this people.

A still greater cause towards the decrescence of the tribes, requires next to be mentioned. It is evident, to any continued resident observer in the country, how many natives die annually without leaving survivors of their own body. This decrease is caused by the gross superstition, of the tapu on a person being taken ill, whereby he is prevented from taking any sustenance, the atua in the form of a lizard being supposed to feed on the entrails of the dying person; and no sooner is the simple native unable to account for his illness, or that of his friends, than he or they sink into a state of despondency, visited by religious compunctions, which will not permit them to resist the progress of the disease. Thousands of these unhappy victims to superstition have been thus hurried to a premature grave, whereas a trifling portion of attention at the commence-

EFFECTS OF SUPERSTITION.

ment of the attack might have added tens of years to the lives of the sufferers. All sustenance is denied them at a later period after the first attack, and many have been literally starved to death. On retrospection, how many do I remember who have been my companions in travel – friends and servants at home, thus self-immolated to these gross superstitions.

Multitudes fall by the equally lamentable folly of the makutu or bewitching. This supposed curse has slain its thousands. The death of the victim to this "vox et preterea nihil," entails an exterminating war on any tribes obnoxious to the village priest. Yet the superstitions above alluded to are of minor importance, notwithstanding how destructive their effects are felt in depopulating New Zealand, in comparison with the numberless children destroyed by their unnatural mothers. To enumerate the many thus disposed of within the pale of families I was acquainted with, I fear me, the account would be criticised with as unsparing a hand as lashed Bruce, on his describing the Abyssinian method of devouring cattle alive, without the amusement and talent of that celebrated traveller. (See note 13).

The mild precepts of a sacred dispensation will do away with the above unnatural habits and

PRESENT STATE OF

customs, after the lapse of some years, but the moral force of good example, with equal privileges enjoyed by the civilised man, and wholesome laws, which from their impartial justice would encourage these hitherto lawless people, to be improved solely by systematic colonization, can alone speedily change, and for a certainty, a remorseless criminal conduct, which has been insisted on and followed up from their earliest history, and of which their mythology furnishes abundant examples.

Another cause for the further decrease of the present population, is the degraded state in which woman has been regarded by these people. To the latest hour of her existence she is doomed to work hard for her imperious helpmate; but the direful effects of this hard labour for life is principally developed by the brief term of the procreative powers, the drudgery she undergoes causing premature age; this impediment to an increase of population would be wholly removed by the force of European example, and would equally extend its good effects on the present baneful practice of polygamy among these anti-monogamists, which at present restrains under the penalty of death, a number of young women from conjugal intercourse.

The continual suicides committed through

THE NEW ZEALANDERS.

misdirected pride and obstinacy, wearied of a life without spiritual hope, immolating themselves to the manes of a departed husband or cruel master; the sacrifices of slaves to attend chiefs of either sex in a future existence; all these causes can only be done away by an active and well-directed employment of both the mind and body of these people. The last cause to which I shall allude, is the incessant hostile dissensions and aggressions taking place between the many chiefs and tribes caused from their incongruous system of polity, which gives rise to so many unappeasable feelings of hatred for real or supposed injuries. The petty chiefs are the principal occasion of these quarrels, generally the sole result of a wish for precedence. Had this country originally possessed a similar monarchical government as has even been established at all the islands of Oceanica, such furious rencontres would never have taken place, caused as they have been by no greater cause of offence, than perhaps a passing frown. (Note 15.)

Vancouver tells us that Tameamea, King of Hawaii, (Owhyhee) had diplomatic work enough to preserve peace even among his adherents, and that his valuable time was divided to preserve his acquired ascendancy over his brother kings of the neighbouring islands and restricting his

PRESENT STATE 0F

nobles from acts of mutual aggression, retaliation, and injustice. The present form of government, if it may be called so where all is injustice and the law of might alone is in practice, among the New Zealanders, which has been handed down to them from the earliest occupants of the country, perhaps originally arose from many separate settlements made in the country by the inhabitants of several islands, originally co-relative and speaking one common language, but whose forms of policy might differ in many instances; however, whatever the original cause may have been, under any other form of government, the country and people would have exhibited a decidedly more flourishing appearance than it presents to the European at the present day. In addition to the professions I have stated the natives would embrace, on the colonization of their country, many of the young men would be found exceedingly clever as apprentices to shipwrights, general carpenters, joiners, turners, blacksmiths, and other branches including all the mechanical and useful arts. "Man," says Buffon, "is the most imitative animal in existence," and the savant is borne out in his assertion as far as these people may be included in this truism. Often has the able native joiner, employed and originally taught by the catechists of the Church Missionary

THE. ISLANDERS.

Society, derided the clumsy fittings of a European, inferior in the craft; the native youth feeling confident of his own superiority, and taking pride to himself accordingly. At the present day, such young men are looked upon with great respect by their less capable relatives; but yet little service can accrue to the body of the people, from a small society of persons giving them employment for their own few and peculiar wants; the abilities of these promising people can only be tested and brought forth as highly serviceable to themselves, by a well-conducted, civilised population settling among them, and adopting the country and its aborigines as their own home and brethren.

The British nation, from their peculiarly commercial and settling habits, are the only people that could readily amalgamate with the New Zealanders, whose earliest knowledge of foreigners has been derived through this nation. The chastisement inflicted by the people under Crozet for the massacre of the unfortunate Marion du Fresne and his companions is not yet forgotten in the Bay of Islands; whereas Cook, whose humanity exceeded that of his contemporary, Surville, is still affectionately remembered to the southward. The trade of this people has

338 PREDILECTION OF THE NATIVES

been wholly with the British. Their atrocities committed in various cases similar to the cutting off the ship "Boyd," having hitherto past unheeded, except in the case of the "Harriet," lost off the S.W. of Taranaki, in 1834, the people are fully aware has not resulted from want of power on the part of the nation of those they have so indignantly and always cruelly ill-used. Independently of the above, and much as we may deplore the original connexion, which not-withstanding its not-to-be defended immorality, I has lessened the crime of infanticide in a great degree, the numerous offspring, or Anglo-Zealanders, are so many perpetual ties, daily presented before their relations and tribes, on whom much marked kindness is invariably shewn by European visitors in the shape of presents to the parents and children; also the decided personal and, it will be hoped, moral, improvements of this mixed race, caused by the inter-marriage of British and native parents, through the medium of the missionaries.. The English language is also spoken and much more understood by many of the present generation, who emulously study it by every chance presented to them; nor must we forget the powerful hold, however silent, that the missionaries have over these people,

TOWARDS THE ENGLISH.

whose quiet method in carrying on their domestic affairs, and the retiring modesty and irreproachable conduct of their married females attached to this invaluable body, would render the domination of any other European power than that of the British, very repugnant to these people.

The yearnings of affection which the New Zealanders possess for their more enlightened visitors and now tenants of the same soil, lie deeper in their hearts than those people will generally admit, or even than they themselves have any knowledge of. They not only entreat for presents, but endeavour to procure them by every artifice they are capable of putting in practice: they will work on the fears of their intended victim to obtain their darling wishes; should this fail, they will annoy him by every means in their power, form cabals, use the most biting sarcasms, especially should the person attacked have any personal defect, even war upon him and commit real injuries, if thwarted and their wishes remain ungranted; but no sooner has this oppressed man quitted the country, than his good actions are well remembered, and the conscience-struck savage calls to remembrance a thousand little kindnesses that had been shewn to him in vain, and cause him to lament, with bitterness and tears, his own precipitate folly, admitting, too late,

CRIMINAL CONDUCT OF

that a contrary conduct would have been more beneficial to him.

The people have expressed much alarm, at various periods, on the proposed introduction of soldiery into the country. These feelings have been initiated into them, or at least augmented, by the well founded fears of the runaway prisoner from the adjacent Australian colonies. In vain has the arrival and subsequent felonious conduct of these ruffians been made known to the colonial authorities at Port Jackson; so far from any instructions being given to commanders of ships of war to apprehend these men, that, at least, they might undergo their original sentence of condemnation, they have been allowed to trade on board these said ships in his majesty's service, and known at the same time as felons. (Note 14.) In vain has Mr. Busby, the government resident, made representations to the colonial authorities in Sydney, (I have his word for it,) of the deplorable state of anarchy and confusion caused by the excesses of these reprobates; equally vain have been the repeated information conveyed by the two missions to their respective societies; nothing has been done, though it is impossible to carry on missionary labours with any ultimate

RUNAWAY PRISONERS.

good effect, unless these excesses are vigorously and effectually put a stop to. What power, it may be asked, can missionary labourers possess over the mind or even outward conduct of the natives, when placed in competition with the lawless runaway prisoner, and often seamen, either breaking through every engagement by escaping from their employers, or ejected from ships for guilty conduct, and are thus found on every part of the coast, an incubus on the people, contaminating by crimes hitherto unknown, to the imitative islanders. The influenced of a refined society cannot, at present, be felt by the native surrounded by his own primitive habits in his country. The civilized man cannot urge the claims due to an enlightened taste and elegant education or manners; the native understands them not. He requires muskets, powder, blankets, and he, who will dispose of these articles at the cheapest rate, is apparently the best friend. Thus the influence of the missionary and respectable resident are alike paralized by the criminal runaway prisoners, who, from the reckless manner they obtain property, give it away as carelessly, and he gains additional advantages by cohabiting with native females, for trivial payments.

STATE OF THE NATIVES

It has often been advanced, that the colonial government of Sydney possessed sufficient control to apprehend their own runaway prisoners, and cause them to undergo their original sentence; – they have never made use of such power, which they assuredly possess. The most degraded methods are made use of to procure illicit livelihoods, endeavouring to insinuate themselves into the graces of sailors, for the purpose of robbing them of their money, and often clothing. There are no wholesome laws to restrain them in their vicious conduct; and it is an acknowledged fact, that the natives resident opposite the longest established stations of the mission, have made the most rapid progress in vice under the tuition of these infamous prisoners, who have entirely neutralised the good effects that had formerly been felt by their instruction. It may be asked, as we find it impossible to prevent the country from being colonised in its present unsystematic manner, neutralising every good that has been attempted in vain for the natives hitherto, and which must ultimately lead to their utter extinction, what is to prevent a more systematic settlement of valuable colonists, whose benefit, either in a moral and pecuniary sense, must be enhanced by following

AT THE PRESENT DAY.

a totally different conduct to that heretofore pursued by the major part of the Europeans towards the tribes, under the patronage and protection of the British government, accompanied by laws, both moral and social, peculiar to Great Britain, which laudably protects alike all classes and religious denominations?

The opinion that has hitherto been formed of the entire population of this vast tract of country, at the present day, taking the entire surface from the northern to its southern extremity, does not perhaps consist of more than three persons to every two square miles, or about one hundred and fifty thousand inhabitants, which will afford the best answer whether there is sufficient space for an European colony, beside the aboriginal inhabitants.

The appearance of the country, in various parts, is thus described by the Reverend Messrs. H. and W. Williams, &c, whose observations are founded on personal travel in their missionary tours among the natives. Those gentlemen possess enlarged and scientific minds, and have heretofore been engaged in active service in the cause of their country, in whose naval annals they are noticed with eclat.

"At Mangawai, (Thames,) there were many pretty places up here, and marks of former settlements, but the people had been swept away

DECREASE OF THE NATIVES.

as with the besom of destruction. Former residences of tribes, now no more, are continually pointed out to us." "The case and circumstance of the natives are lamentable; many of them have died of sickness and disease, while a greater number have been cut down in the field of battle; in fact, they bid fair for annihilation, for the island is at this time, (1832,) in a very turbulent state. A respectable settler, going to reside on the Thames, states that, for five years past the natives of that most beautiful spot had not been allowed to cultivate, except here and there in secluded vallies; those of Wangari making continual attacks upon them, and were so driven about, that they were living on fern, root, and fish, in a continual state of dreadful alarm. The coast between Katikati and Tauranga forms an island, very level, and from the number of deserted pa's, was doubtless formerly thickly inhabited, but now in a most desolate state from the effect of war." At another place, "The country appeared well-wooded, but no inhabitants, though marks of former people; no sooner do strangers meet than fear is expressed." "In Wangari, (in 1833,) we saw the wreck of an Englishman's house, but not a creature; when last we where here (1832) there was a large party at the pa, and several Euro-

DESOLATION OF THE COUNTRY.

peans were in various places around; but all are gone, shewing the distressing effects of war. No inhabitant hitherto seen – all desolation. How melancholy is the reflection that once those hills and vallies were peopled with savage hordes, but of late years they have been hunted as the deer, until few remain, and they are driven into the interior! In what a wretched state are these people sitting! In the darkness and shadow of death, destitute of every hope, either in this world or the world to come, not knowing who are friends or foes, but daily dreading an attack from some unknown quarter; many have expressed to me, during our present expedition, how gladly would they receive a party of soldiers amongst them to preserve peace in the land. "The island, on which we were, was large, and abundance of ground for many families: the rocks were covered with oysters, and pipis were on the mud banks, which run out for a long distance, and the sea full of fish of all kinds; it was melancholy to look around; all was perfect stillness, except here and there a bird: – no bustle of active life, no vessels, boats or canoes, moving on either hand, over the surface of these waters, which spread like magnificent rivers, among the numerous islands. The hills in the rear are clothed with timber,

NEW TRIBE DISCOVERED.

without rendering service to any. Traces of former towns and settlements were visible, as we came along, and wherever we turned; but all were either destroyed, or the inhabitants taken captive or fled.

"At Mokoia in the Thames, the country around appeared very level to a great extent, and the general report of the natives is, that it is of the same quality with that here; but it cannot be occupied by Europeans for a length of time, as there is no timber near the place. The river on which this place stands, runs up a long distance to within half a mile of Manukau which empties itself on the western coast; it passes through Waikato."

At Mercury bay, some time since a tribe of natives were discovered, who belonged to the plains inland, supposed to be uninhabited, and who, it was said, never visited the coast before. In the Island of Victoria, doubtless when communication is formed within that island, various remnants of tribes will be discovered, the descendants of those people, who have fled from the devouring tyranny of other tribes stronger in numerical force, and who have instilled into their progeny, superstitious fears, to prevent their future commigration. Reports are extant among the natives, that such people have been seen in

EMIGRATION OF TRIBES.

the fortresses of that island; but similar to native reports, they are invested with such supernatural absurdities, as to be difficult of credence.

Many of the chiefs are tired of war, and though they would feel puzzled in choosing a dictator among themselves, for their commonwealth, yet I am fully inclined to think, that they would readily submit to the government of a person representing British authority. Any other description of government than that connected with the crown, might alienate the affections of these people, as the most fostered passion in a New Zealander is pride, and the name of the possessor of the crown is alone regarded as a "tower of strength." From the extracts of missionary correspondence above given, it will be readily perceived that even in the north or most populous island, whole districts of many square miles in extent are wholly vacated and unoccupied. These remarks were written some few years back, between which period and the present, continual wars have been carried over the whole country. The extirpation of whole tribes has been so rapid, that in 1835, about five hundred natives, inhabitants of Port Nicholson or Wanganui atera, employed the master of a colonial brig, to take them from their own district to the Chatham Islands. They were

EMIGRATION OF TRIBES.

conveyed in two trips, and as soon as they arrived in the islands, which are valuable in an agricultural point of view, they took the simple inhabitants for slaves, murdering and devouring numbers. The heartless fellow who carried the tribes to the islands, was disappointed in his expectation of flax, which was to be his payment, and was allowed to go at large unpunished, (similar to the cases of the two Stewarts) by the colonial government. The natives on these small islands were originally descended from the New Zealanders; but had deteriorated much from their neighbours with whom they were conterraneous; since that period, other tribes have attempted to capture two colonial vessels, for the same purpose, to be conveyed to Sunday Island, the largest of the Curtis's Group. (See Note 6).

Natives are daily emigrating from New Zealand in the many whaling vessels, that are continually touching all over the coast, nor are their services refused, for a more apt people do not exist in Europe, to learn and accommodate themselves to the habits of their visitors, and to perform with readiness the tasks assigned to them. Many large burthensome ships, containing cargoes, &c, worth thirty thousand pounds and upwards, are steered on the tractless ocean

FICKLENESS OF NATIVES.

by the unenlightened New Zealander. The natives have frequently invited missionaries to reside in their districts, adding, "we will war no more; if you had settled among us formerly, such and such a tribe would not have been cut off." In many parts, the society have formed stations in the most populous places that could be selected, and when their presence has been especially requested, the mission have often found their presence has been principally desired for the sake of the little trade they might be obliged to expend in necessary provisions for themselves and school. Thus at Puriri a central and well chosen station at the Thames estuary, many heads of tribes requested the missionaries to establish themselves among them; and after oft repeated invitations the request was complied with. Messrs Fairburn and Stack, two efficient persons, well versed in the habits of the people, from a long residence among them, settled themselves among these tribes, and were treated disgracefully as early as they arrived; threats of every kind were held forth by the misguided mob, who cavilled at the prices paid for fencing houses and other matters, which they had not the slightest occasion to do. They said, "Let all the Europeans go home; who asked them to come here? We never visited them; they came

FICKLENESS OF

of their own accord. We only want those who sell muskets and powder." The insults a native will give to a European, require a patience scarcely to be acquired otherwise, than in a prolonged residence in the country. At another period, in consequence of a servant making off with a counterpane, at Puriri, which one of the brethren went after to recover, not for its value, but for the precedent it would cause among the natives around to rob them, on requesting the man to return it as it was stolen, the fellow rose up with a large knife in his hand, and approached the missionary in a menacing attitude; the attendant chief interfered, the ruffian struggling in their grasp in vain, who when deprived of thus wreaking his insane passion, seized an iron pot and dashed it in pieces. Early the next day the Missionaries perceived a number of chiefs arming for war, and on enquiry, found they were preparing themselves to chastise the friends of the man, whose bad conduct had caused this quarrel, and they had loaded their muskets for the purpose. The brethren entreated them to desist from such folly; that they had settled among them as messengers of peace, not of war. The chiefs trembled with passionate anger, but agreed to have a komiti (committee) on the subject, as they were all relatives. They began wrestling with each

THE NATIVES.

other, according to custom, but with good humour. The usual lengthy speeches were made, which for prosiness and soporific effects, equal certain financial declamations in certain Houses of assembly; the fellow, who was the disturber of the peace got severely censured, and at the finale it was requested, that the mission be not removed, as the people would become a bye word around, and they would die with shame and vexation. Payment was tendered for the loss of the iron pot, and great alacrity was shewn by the people to regain the good graces they had lost. This was the behaviour of the natives at the extreme south station at that time. At Kaitaia, on the river Rangounu, the most northern settlement, the importunities for resident missionaries, by the different tribes, were equalled only by their countrymen at Puriri. The land purchased for the use of the mission was to be paid for. The trade was produced, that was to be the payment, and was for some time agreeably divided, until some impatient fellows made a rush, to appropriate to themselves a larger share than they were entitled to; many of course felt dissatisfied, and instantly scrambled over the fences that had been erected around the house of the mission, in order to strip it; others immediately followed to protect it and the property; so that

PURCHASE OF WAIMATE.

all was uproar and confusion – naked savages plying about in every direction, armed with billets of wood, hatchets and stakes. After the first ebullitions of the tumult had subsided, they met and commenced a haka, and these singular folks all melted into feelings of regret and affection at their hasty conduct. Peace was restored and the chiefs spoke favorably for the mission; the head of them was determined, he said to protect the Europeans to the utmost of his power. The disgraceful conduct of the above transaction, is pleasingly reversed, we find, in the purchase of the Waimate settlement. At this place, the natives assembled, and anxiously awaited the arrival of the brethren, to receive the payment for their land. They expressed satisfaction at what each received, and willingly put their signatures to the deeds which were to convey over to the new comers, the land that had descended to them for many generations. This purchase was remarkable, as being the first inland settlement purchased by Europeans. At the conclusion, the chief's people discharged a round of artillery. One of the principal chiefs then made a speech to his friends, and said, "Be gentle to the Missionaries, for they are gentle with you; do not steal from them, for they do not steal from you; let them sit in peace on the ground which they have

LAND PURCHASES.

bought and let us listen to their advice, and come to their prayers; though there are many of us, missionaries and native men, let us all be one, all be one." The report states, that eight hundred acres of most excellent land were bought, bounded by a beautiful river, and having many smaller streams intersecting it. The quantity of land purchased for the church missionary at Kaitaia is upwards of one thousand acres, six hundred of which is fine alluvial soil. The chiefs of whom we purchased the land manifested great satisfaction at seeing the payment, one of whom made an excellent speech on the occasion, in which he showed the nature of European bargains, telling them that the land which they had sold was a weighty article and the right of possession would never return to them; it was for ever gone.

The large prices demanded for land will sufficiently tend to prove, that the natives are not such illiterate people as some philosophers insist upon. In purchasing, the north bank and right of the waterfall at the head of the boat navigation in the Waitangi river, a missionary gentleman had applied, unknown to me, for the place, previously to its being offered to me. After much annoyance, during which I had frequently requested Kamura, the chief to let the former gentle-

VALUE OF LANDED

man become the purchaser, as early as I knew of his intentions, it was finally agreed, that each party should possess either bank of the river, the chief observing that his tribe wanted missionaries, but also were at a loss for commercial persons, as his people required to sell their agricultural productions; counting on his fingers the many edibles they would plant, if they could but meet with a purchaser. In demanding payment for the land, he bade me bear in mind, that the property had descended to him from a remote ancestry, who, as well as himself, had belonged to the sacerdotal class; that in purchasing the land, I necessarily became incorporated among the tribe, the actual interest constituting me a "tamaiti no na Nu Tilani," a child of New Zealanders. I hinted at my complexion; but Kamura assured me that made no difference as I should pass muster well enough. That the utu must be very great, at least such was expected, and pointing to the river, said, as that river flows up many little creeks and crevices, so must the payment be equally sufficient; that each claimant of the property may be refreshed, for the land remained to me for ever; that no sooner vegetable seeds were planted in the soil, but they returned the original expence cast in the first instance; and if I planted fruit trees, the young cuttings would become large trees; that the

PROPERTY DEFINED.

payment he and his people would receive, must soon dwindle away and be forgotten; the musket would early become sick or dead, (mate) the blanket would fall to rags and decay, and tobacco, or money laid out in that article, would be quickly smoked away, and the other articles would become broken or stolen.

Observing certain lively appearances in the blanket worn by my friend, I hinted that this latter article was also likely to produce a crop, as well as his land, and pointed to some travellers, who were comfortably ensconced within the wool; he laughed, and decorously hid them from my sight by placing them within his mouth, exclaiming, "Katai ku pakeha ta hangareka, e tihi ano" or my white man jokes with me, and is a thief into the bargain. These circumstances are mentioned to show that, at times, the people are tenacious in their proceedings, where their interests are concerned, and are at other periods actuated by fickleness; – this conduct is evidently the effect of an uncultivated intellect.

I have mentioned elsewhere, on striking a native, that a smile has changed his anger, when a frown would have enraged him beyond the bounds of reason. The fickleness of disposition in the New Zealanders renders it painful to have any

DISPOSITION OF

dealings whatever with them in their present state. This unpleasant conduct is not felt by the missionaries in so great a degree, as by the traders. The wily native is aware, if he insults a single member of the former body, he draws down the indignation of the whole; but he knows that a feeling of unworthy rivalry exists among commercial men, and if he cannot get his price from one store-keeper, he can from the next neighbour. The most venerable sage is as unstable as a feather: the slightest supposed affront will arouse his bitterest passions, which oftentimes nothing less than blood will satiate, and a paltry trifling present, or even a jest will restore his equanimity; this latter feeling is as strong within him, as the former, for a native will sometimes stake his life in defence of the object that pleases him at the moment.

These people, with minds suitably cultivated, are capable of the most exalted actions. Since the establishment of the missions, and respectable commercial settlers, many former practices, which savoured of their wild barbarous state, have disappeared. Slaves are no longer sacrificed at the decease of chiefs to the northward of the river Thames, but yet we find but little diminution of wars among the people. In 1837

THE PEOPLE.

the whole of the tribes inhabiting the banks of the Hokianga were at war one with the other; several were killed on either side, and the Bay of Island was tempestuously divided between two parties. During the continued period these dissensions were carried on, we find no European power of sufficient influence to stay such offensive proceedings. By the use of fire-arms, in lieu of the old accoutrements, much less loss of life has ensued; but colonization alone, whereby European interests will interweave themselves with those of the natives, can prevent this people from steadily pursuing their determination of exterminating each other, though it must be fully admitted, that the missionaries are improving a few of the natives in their general conduct, at least outwardly to strangers. This is matter of surprise, when their exertions are paralyzed by the misconduct of vicious Europeans; yet the national rancour of these people can only be stayed by the residence of a superior moral and physical force together with impartial laws, that will recognise the two people as one family.

New Zealand, once systematically colonized, will be regarded in a very few years by Great Britain, among the first in value of her colonies,

VALUE OF THE ISLANDS

without any of those attendant expenses that have hitherto been inseparable in the formation of these adjuncts to her greatness. The country is destined to become the granary, as well as from her peculiar locality the safeguard of the many rising colonies now established on the four coasts of New Holland.

New Zealand possesses in either island alone, a greater number of valuable harbours, than are to be found around the circumference of coast that girts New Holland. The climate is unequalled, the land is nearly situated antipodal to our own, with the advantage of being nearer to the temperate zone; the value of the soil, its fertility, the rivers, fresh water creeks intersecting the surrounding lands in every direction, and forming easy and convenient outlets for the marketable productions of the farmer, give this splendid country so obvious a superiority over the most favoured colony in New Holland, as must cause, at no far distant day, a depreciation of the unnaturally forced prices of land in those colonies, and New Zealand will be raised in proportionate value, as it must be the depot and mart for the various productions of the different islands in the entire vast Pacific ocean. These remarks are not the hazardous results of hasty con-

FOR COLONIZATION.

jecture, but resulting from a residence in the islands of the Pacific and Indian oceans of above eleven years. In a word, the occupation of New Zealand, as a colony, is of primary importance to the British Government, in a political point of view. In the event of a rupture taking place with the most northern power of Europe, at such a period, the real value of the indigenous staples of the country would be apparent, as ample supplies of the phormium or flax, and ship timber, would be made available to any extent, the former staple admitting being cultivated in such marshy lands, as are least useful to the farmer's agricultural purposes. This new article of hitherto foreign commerce, would throw into the hands of Englishmen the important sums that now serve to enrich the foreigner, and open a new field of exertion, hitherto but little known to the British Colonial grower, the home manufacturer, mechanic, and capitalist. Secondly, in case of a rupture with any foreign power of Europe or America, this country, unoccupied by the British, would be the resort of hostile ships,; that must wholly destroy the entire commerce of all the colonies in New Holland, and in the present negligent and inefficient state of their defences, leave them open to the first invader; for

VALUE OF THE ISLANDS

it is a notorious fact, that the oldest settlement on the coast (Port Jackson) at the present moment, could be laid under contribution by a single ship of war, the more surprising as it possesses every local advantage for forts and other defences. Thirdly, As a mart for British enterprise in the lucrative investment of capital, assured by certain and regular changes of season, unlike the occasional depressing droughts of five and seven years' duration, that afflict the senior colony of New Holland and this country, is equally free from the distressing epidemics of the above mentioned colony, such as dysentery, measles, consumption, diarrhoea, &c.

In the civilization of the natives, it must not be forgotten, the great impulse that will be given to our manufacturers at home, the employment that will be afforded to thousands of the poor and honest classes of our own industrious countrymen. Fourthly, From the locality of the country, whose position north and south, admits equally of the growth of valuable tropical and European productions; thus the grape, sugar cane, &c. find a congenial climate to the north, so also the southward is equally favourable to the plants indigenous to the north of Europe. Fifthly, The views of future colonists have only been alluded

WHEN COLONISED.

to above; but the manifest improvement that will take place, bodily and mentally in the present lord of the soil, under the mild effects of European religious instruction, will have a different result, from the marked horrors of the native mythology; no longer will suicide be an every day occurrence, nor will the superstitious native be cut off in early years, by the devouring appetite of false phantoms; the wife will no longer immolate herself on the native suttee, nor the death of a chief be notated by a profuse sacrifice of slaves; the mild laws of a European people, will stay the mother's unnatural hand from the destruction of her offspring; the causes that have hitherto occasioned the pollution of abortion will cease, and the present wretched menial, slave no more, crouching in continual fears from the unseen blow, shall no longer serve the cannibal propensities of his master; the baleful thoughts of vindictive and unappeaseable revenge will give place to wishes and exertions to vie with the farmer, the mechanic and the seaman; the native woman, no longer doomed to bow beneath the weight of a loathed existence, will, in a very few years, present a totally different appearance to the present race; the man possessing least physical force, who dare not

VALUE OF THE

wear the glittering toy, as his life would be sacrificed by his hardier brother, to possess the tempting ornament, will be bound by equal laws; the native's mind will expand, his abominable superstitions vanish, he will regard his now miserable helpmate as the best boon given to erring man, by an all bounteous Creator. Such will be the effects of a resident European intercourse under the salutary laws of a mild government, upholding religious institutions, without which all social existence is poisoned at its source.

The colonization of New Zealand will be the signal for the innumerable islands in the vast south Pacific ocean, to rise; which they must do, in value and importance, teeming as they now do, with valuable indigenous productions, in an uncultivated state, such as the sugar cane, ginger, turmeric, indigo, and other staple articles of consumption, that require but the pruning hand of the European to render more valuable than those beautiful islands, that are likely within a very few years to fall to total decay, in the Caribbean sea. The islands of Oceanica possess a soil, rich beyond comparison. No epidemic malarias or jungle fevers decrease the family of man in those gems of the ocean, nor are their productions

OCEANIC ISLANDS.

stunted, if not wholly destroyed, by destructive hurricanes. New Caledonia, an extensive island, lies within a few days' sail of New Zealand; its position is N.W. 1/2 W. and S.E. S.; 1/2 S. it is bounded by extensive reefs, and has but few ports, though sufficiently extensive to afford shelter land locked for such vessels that may at any period navigate these seas; its extreme length is about 260 miles, and extends from 19 deg. 37' to 22 deg. 30' S. latitude, 163 deg. 37' to 167 deg. 14' E. longitude. In addition to New Caledonia the many islands comprised under the name of New Hebrides, New Britain, New Ireland, Solomon, Archipelago, the Louisiades, &c. and many other groups will, in a very few years, open new channels for British capital, industry, and manufactures.

It is now in the power of the British Government to bestow the blessings of morality, religion, and good example, among these hitherto benighted people; and every philanthropic mind must wish, that the erring New Zealander may spontaneously feel inclined to praise our eternal Father, when viewing his wondrous works – that the towering mountain heights, the overwhelming torrents of his country, shall no longer be regarded, only as

obstacles to his paths; but that even the most humble of flowrets shall form an attraction to his mind, as emanating from an all merciful and bounteous Creator.

APPENDIX

APPENDIX

[Blank page]

APPENDIX.

NOTE 1.

The voyage of Juan Fernandez, in 1576, is only found in Arias' Memorial to the King of Spain. The natives are said to be very well disposed; of noble stature, peaceable and civil. Fernandez intended to return, and kept in consequence the latitude and longitude of his discovery a secret. But the departure was delayed from day to day, until his death took place, when this important document was lost, and finally sunk in oblivion.

NOTE 2.

In the year 1613, some enterprising merchants, natives of the United Provinces of Holland, undertook to search for a passage south of Cape Horn; the principal persons were Isaac le Maire, of Amsterdam, Jan Clementz Kies, and Jan Janszen Molenwerf. This favourite topic was the subject of continual conversation among them. As the risk they had to incur was excessive,

SHOUTEN AND LE MAIRE.

they previously demanded a recompense from the states general for the many difficulties they must naturally undergo in a navigation hitherto unknown. In answer to their request that the first six voyages should be granted to them exclusively, the first four were guaranteed, and in addition, a penalty of 50,000 ducats should be confiscated to their use by any persons attempting to defraud them of their rights, on the stipulation that the southern company (Compagnie Australe, as they called themselves, their quondam friends called them the gold seekers) made known to the states their report of the navigation and success. This decree 2 was dated March 26th, 1614.

An experienced ship master was procured in the person of Wilhelm Cornelisz Shouten, called in those days ship patron; (patron du navire) and to "make assurance doubly sure," another licence was procured from the Prince of Orange, certifying that "Jacob le Maire, captain and president of the two ships "Eendract and Hoorne;" and Wilhelm Cornelisz Shouten, had permission and authority from him to go to the kingdoms of Tartary, China, Japan, the East Indies, Terra Australis, islands and lands of the South Seas, to the Isle of Rotta, a small island S. W. of Timor, and the most southern then known of the eastern Archipel, to passage north and south, and others which they might discover, make alliances, etc.

"Signed

"Maurice de Nassau."
Dated May 13th, 1614."

TASMAN'S VOYAGE.

The reader must be referred to the narrative of this celebrated voyage, whose destination at the time was kept a profound secret.

NOTE 3.

The journal of Tasman was first published in 1694 by Dirck Rembrantz van Nieross. Its value was instantly acknowledged, 3 by being translated into several European languages. Our countryman, Valentine, re-published the voyage in 1726, and it soon found its way into several collections. In 1770, shortly after the return of Mr. Banks from the South Seas, a manuscript journal of Captain Tasman was brought into England and purchased by that gentleman from its possessor. As it was written in the Dutch language, and the orthography according to that used in Tasman's time, a translation was requested and made by the Rev. C. G. Woide, under-librarian to the British Museum. In this manuscript Tasman's signature appears, accompanied with the word "Onderstout," (undersigned). Captain Burney, afterwards rear-admiral, who first published this translation, says it was a formality usually practised by those who inscribed their name; an example being quoted in the same journal, where the opinion of one of the steersmen being required is delivered in writing, "Onderstout by my, Peter N. Duytz," or, "Undersigned by me, Peter N. Duytz." "The manuscript in the British Museum, bound together with the translation) appears," says Captain Burney, "to be the iden-

NEW ZEALAND FLAX,

tical journal delivered by Captain Tasman to the Governor General, Antony Van Dieman and council at Batavia."

NOTE 4.

New Zealand Flax, or PHORMIUM TENAX, in allusion to the leaves of this plant, being converted, among other uses, into that of baskets, flourishes in great abundance throughout the country, of which it is indigenous. It is most plenteously found in the vicinity of swamps, which abound throughout the interior, and does not perish by the salt water tide washing its roots. There are a variety of the species; principally caused by climate and soil; some flax plants, to the northward, scarce attaining the heighth of six feet; others, I have observed, to the southward, attained the height of sixteen feet. Portions of flax are to be seen adjoining almost every village – it is of incalculable service to the natives. In its natural state it is called korari or korali; when scraped or dressed, the common or inferior is called mooka; the superior sort, hoonga hoonga; the latter term is but rarely made use of. The natives make all their valuable apparel of the leaves of this plant; they also manufacture their fishing lines and every kind of cordage, and by splitting the leaves into strips, the fishing nets and seines are made, simply, by tying these strips together; some of the latter are of an enormous size. Sir Joseph Banks was the first discoverer of this staple, and says, "A plant, which, with such advantages, might be applied to so many useful and important purposes, would certainly be a great acquisition to England,

OR PHORMIUM TENAX.

where it would probably thrive with very little trouble, as it seems to be hardy and to affect no particular soil, being found equally in hill and valley, in the driest mould and the deepest bogs." It has been growing in France for the last forty years, and has withstood the severity of a Parisian winter, and in the South of France, as might be naturally expected, it has flourished with great success. In the west also, near to Cherbourg, it has perfectly succeeded and yielded ripe fruit. It readily increases by dividing the roots. M. Faujas de St. Fond prepared the fibre in the following manner: he dissolved three pounds of soap in a sufficient quantity of water, together with twenty-five pounds of the split leaves of the flax, tied up in bundles. All were then boiled during the space of five hours, until the leaves were deprived of the tenacious gluten at the lateral end of them, but which is not removed by the ordinary process employed in the preparation of hemp; after which, they were carefully washed in running water. Flax plants have flourished in various gardens throughout England, and at Inverness in Scotland, without any shelter against the inclemency of a northern winter. The South of Ireland would be peculiarly adapted for this plant. The phormium tenax is now an inhabitant of various parts of the Continent. It is also indigenous to Norfolk Island, where it is seen along the cliffs within the influence of the salt water spray, rising from the heavy surfs which beat against the rocky coast of that beautiful garden of the Pacific. It is also a native of the Chatham Islands, and is of similar service to the people of that valuable little group. From the experiments of M, Labillar-

NEW ZEALAND FLAX,

diere, the strength of the fibre of this plant, as compared with that of the Agave Americana, flax, hemp, and silk, is as follows:

The fibre of the Agave breaks under a weight of 7
Flax ......11 1/2
Phormium ....23 7/11
Silk .......24

Thus it appears of all vegetable fibres, the phormium is the strongest. It possesses this advantage over the hemp and flax, that it is of a brilliant whiteness which gives it a satiny appearance; so that the clothes made of it do not need to be bleached by a tedious process, or through those other means by which flax is injured. Flax is prepared in New Zealand by the females and slaves. The separating of the silky fibre from the flag-like leaf is thus performed: the apex is held between the toes; a transverse section is then made through the succulent matter at that end with a common muscle shell, which is inserted between that substance and the fibre, which readily effects its separation by drawing the shell through the whole of the leaf. It has been attempted in Sydney to withdraw the filaments from the leaves by maceration; but the large proportion of succulent matter rendered it impossible to effect the separation by decomposition in water, without materially injuring the strength of the fibre. Leaves of this plant are generally scraped as early as cut, as the thick gum is enclosed at the lower part of the leaf rising from either side in a pyramidal form, and adheres strongly when drying. The celebrated botanist, Peter Cunningham, Esq., observes: "Simple as appears this mode of separating the flax

ITS SUPERIORITY OVER HEMP.

from the leaf by a shell in the hands of those savages, still the European has not succeeded in his endeavours to prepare the fibre for himself, either by that, or any other means that have been tried; nor has any instrument or piece of machinery yet been invented to enable him to strip off and prepare this valuable filament for the English market. The Port Jackson traders must still be dependant on the native women and their shells for the cargoes they obtain." The flax thus obtained by the merchants of Sydney undergoes no heckling, cleaning, or other preparation, previously to its being shipped for the English market; but is merely made into bales, by being put into a press and screwed down. It is subsequently manufactured into every species of cordage, excepting cables, and its superiority of strength to the hemp of the Baltic has been attested both by experiments made at Sydney and in the King's yards at Deptford. The phormium has been in use for many years past, made up into tacks, sheets, braces, stays, &c, and its superiority in bearing a great strain over hemp has been well attested. It is very elastic and strong. Mr. Cunningham made a professional trip with Captain P. P. King, in an exploring expedition on the coast of New Holland, in the colonial cutter, "Mermaid;" he says: "We bent a new main sheet at Port Jackson, which, in a cutter, is a rope on which there is ever much stress, and after nine months, returned from the north-west coast, and the rope was still good and serviceable, whereas of Baltic hemp, a main sheet by friction and strain would have been so worn at the close of our surveys on that coast, that it would have become indispensible to bend another to carry us

NEW ZEALAND FLAX,

back from that shore to Port Jackson, the voyage being seven or eight weeks." Some attempts have been made to fabricate cloth of the phormium; but it has hitherto failed in every instance. Equally unfavourable have been the results on boiling the phormium with potash, the substance becomes too much reduced in strength as scarce to bear even weaving. The strength of the phormium doubtless is mainly assisted by the gum which bathes every fibre.

The root of the phormium is fleshy; a tuberiform rootstock, creeping beneath the surface of the soil, sending up many tufts of luxuriously growing leaves, from four to twelve feet long, and from two to three inches in diameter. They are distichous, vertical, coriaceous, and deep green, finely striated, ensiform; the margin and nerve, somewhat orange-red; at the base, the inner edge has a deep furrow, which sheathes the leaf immediately within it; and upon various parts of the surface a gummy substance flakes off in whitish spots; from the centre of these tufts arises a scape, often eighteen feet in height, bearing several branches, containing a number of beautiful crimson flowers, which contain a saccharine juice much esteemed by the natives. It is a handsome and vigorous plant. According to the statistical returns of New South Wales for 1828, the flax of the country to the extent of sixty tons, was exported from Sydney to England, valued at 2,600 pounds; in 1830, eight hundred and forty-one tons were exported; and in 1831, one thousand and sixty-two tons. Since which period, it has decreased every year. Its superiority over the Baltic hemp is established among rope manufacturers,

ITS PROPERTIES.

and when fitting machinery is invented, in lieu of the present expensive method of procuring it, its public sales will be attended by more competition than at present, and will fetch a price of a more remunerating character than is now given for the article. I have thankfully to acknowledge being indebted to Sir William Jackson Hooker, the Linnaeus of our day, for much of this communication on the New Zealand phormium tenax. In the flax house, great care is taken no rain or fluid saturates these articles, as it changes the colour of the staple. Hitherto it has been found to take tar but very indifferently, so necessary in standing rigging.

The valuable properties of the flax grown on its native soil is unknown; all that has hitherto been brought to Europe has been hastily scraped from the plant in its wild state; but it doubtless requires that care in its culture, during its growth and manufacture, which the native of the soil has not the patience to undertake, even if he possessed the knowledge. Captain Duperrey says, in speaking of the phormium, in the letter-press accompanying his splendid atlas, "On se rappelle les essais nombreux et les eloges encore plus grands dont a ete l'objet, en France et en Angleterre cette substance; l'utile qui unit la beaute des filaments a une souplesse et une force superieure a celle du chanvre et du lin. Les Anglais ont tellement senti les avantages de cette plante vivace qu'ils ont tente plusieurs moyens pour se l'approprier.quot;

NOTE 5.

M. Duperrey gives us the following amusing deriva-

376 M. DUPERREY'S DEFINITIONS.

tives of the names distinguishing the North Island, and part of the district of the Island of Victoria.

"C'est E'ka na mauvi qu'il faut dire, ce qui signifie le poisson du Mauwi, nom indiquant sans doute l'abondance des poissons sur les cotes de cette ile. Il est de fait, que la peche est une des grandes ressources des habitants pour leur nourriture."

"Teai poenammou signifie chez les Nouveaux Zelandais l'ile du poisson qui produit le jade vert; ces peuples paraissent nommer tawai quelque grande espece de baleine a laquelle ils attribuent la formation du beau jade axinien, qui sert a faire leurs casse-tetes et des objets de parure; peut-etre cette etymologie remonte-t-elle a d'anciennes idees mythologiques."

NOTE 6.

The most southerly group in Australasia was discovered in 1811, by a Sealing Master, who procured a cargo of eighty thousand skins of that amphibious animal, and were named MACQUARIE ISLANDS, after the governor of the colony of New South Wales. The principal island is about nineteen miles long, and six miles in breadth, containing two open anchorages. Notwithstanding the high latitude in which the group is situated, Macquarie Island is covered with vegetation, the land is uneven, indented by bights and ravines. At a little distance to the northward lie two rocky islets named the JUDGE and CLERK, two similar sterile islets lie to the south, that figure under the ecclesiastical appellation of the BISHOP and CLERK, the middle of the

GEOGRAPHICAL NOTICES.

377

group is situated in 54 deg. 39' south latitude 156 deg. 21' east longitude.

CAMPBELL'S ISLAND was discovered in 1810 by the master of the ship "Perseverance." The land is high, about thirty miles in circumference; the coast is of a very rocky character, the interior is elevated land, from which emerge peaks of a very considerable height, the principal has a conical shape rising in a strait line from the surrounding mountains, various parts are covered with verdure, but producing only stunted trees. It is situated in 52 deg. 43' south latitude, 167 deg. 2' east longitude.

The AUCKLAND GROUP was first visited by Captain Bristow in the whale ship "Ocean." They are well covered with vegetation, from which several forests of trees of a large growth, and variety of species, flourish to a large size. These isles were formerly a favourite resort of sealing gangs, and are at present much frequented by whalers. The spars that are produced in the forests, are serviceable for ships masts, and a quantity of other timber of the pine tribe fitted for the shipwright is abundant; much of the indigenous shrubbery is similar to the productions in New Zealand. The only quadrupeds are rats; birds of beautiful plumage are very plentiful, whose melody resounds through the woods, which contain pigeons, parrots, parroquets, cucoos, hawks, flycatchers, and a variety of the palmipede genus. Fish are plentiful around the shores, and among the shell fish a muscle is particularly noticed as being fifteen inches in length. The climate is temperate and salubrious; the clothing of the forest perennial; good anchorage is also found. The principal island is twenty miles from north to south, in

VARIOUS ISLANDS IN THE

breadth eight miles. The western coast is the most elevated; one mountain that rises to some height on this side, is visible fifty miles distant at sea in clear weather; the smaller islands are called ENDERBY, DISAPPOINTMENT, ADAM'S ISLANDS, geographical position in centre of the group, 50 deg. 40' south latitude, 164 deg. east longitude.

ANTIPODES ISLAND was discovered by Captain Pendleton of the sealing vessel"Union" in 1800, and received this appellative from being nearly antipodal of London. The land is of middling height, situated in 45 deg. 40' south latitude, 177 deg. 20' east longitude.

The BOUNTY GROUP was discovered by Bligh in 1788, on his passage to Tahiti; it has since been visited by sealing gangs, and whalemen. The group comprises thirteen islets, within a space of three and a half miles from north to south, 47 deg. 44' south latitude, l76 deg. 47' east longitude.

AU the above groups are deserted, and until within a few years, the favourite resort of sealers, who were in former years very successful. A far more interesting archipelago than any of the preceding is furnished for our contemplation in the CHATHAM ISLANDS, discovered on the 23rd of November 1791, by Lieutenant Broughton, who accompanied Vancouver in his survey of the north west coast of the American Continent, and named the country after the vessel that first conveyed Europeans in sight of its shores. Broughton anchored in the bay on the north side of the principal island. The natives assembled in numbers on the beech, though from the absence of any houses in the vicinity, the people were supposed to have been on a fishing

VICINITY OF NEW ZEALAND.

excursion. The presents given by the Englishmen met with no returns in exchange, and though pres-singly invited to land by the islanders, their visitors hesitated, but thought proper after some time to do so, and took possession of the island by the fancied right of discovery in the name of his Majesty George the Third. The natives were armed with clubs and lances; between thirty and forty of them surrounded the Lieutenant, and began to show unequivocal signs of hostility, when that officer was obliged to discharge his piece in self-defence; upon the report of the musket, they were greatly astonished and alarmed; but as early as their fears abated they recommenced their menacing positions, when Broughton ordered the boat in shore, and prepared to embark. An officer named Johnson had his piece taken out of his hand, but he hastily recovered it, and on the natives hemming him in a circle with threatening gestures, to avoid being struck by a savage who aimed a blow at him, he fired, the Englishmen were pushed into the water, and on getting into the boat, a shower of lances and stones were hurled at them, but two persons only, were hurt. One of the savages was killed. Broughton to make evident his peaceable intentions, left in a canoe the various trifles he had brought with him on shore to conciliate the islanders.

The natives of the Chatham Islands are at present better known; they are descended from the New Zealanders, but have degenerated much from that people. Their manners, habits, laws and customs, are much the same; chieftainship is equally venerated; the priesthood have similar sway, and the signs of joy,

CHATHAM GROUP.

grief, anger, salutation &c. bear an equal resemblance. Tattooing is not used. The stature of the people is smaller than that of the New Zealanders, with similar features and complexion; the dress is formed of seal skins, the hairy side being worn outwards. The hair is worn in similar fashions to their progenitors, and they delight in ornamenting themselves with feathers; they are vigorous and well made. Shells and teeth are accounted the ne plus ultra of ornaments, as bracelets, earrings, collars, &c. They are a lively, but timid people; the language is much the same as the dialect in New Zealand, either people understanding each other. The inhabitants were numerous; the account of the misfortunes that have been entailed on them by the reckless rapacity of an English trading master, has been detailed elsewhere, and unless some friendly government put a stop to the plan of extermination by cannibalism, now pursued by the New Zealanders located among them, not a single aborigine of the country will exist within a very few years.

The forests are well wooded, containing many large trees and penetrable to the traveller. The phormium is also abundant, and is made use of for fishing lines, dresses, etc. The villages contain many houses similar to those of the inferior class put together of bulrushes in New Zealand. The canoes are also similar, and carving designs on wood is practised. Lances form the weapons of war, some of them are seven feet in length; stones (without slings) and heavy clubs with knobs carved at the end. The cookery is by heated stones; the fern root which grows to a large size is also made use of as an article of food, as is the kumara (battata

SMALL ARCHIPELAGOES.

convolvulus.) Birds, which are very numerous, were formerly seen to hover around the natives without fear. Fish is their principal sustenance, and hogs, fowls, goats, dogs, rats, etc., are common in the country; ducks, pigeons, parrots, hawks, and a variety of the palmipede tribe are common to the shores of their islands. The largest of the group is about thirty-six miles long from east to west; the others are less considerable, viz. the TWO SISTERS, PYRAMID and CORNWALLIS ISLANDS; this little archipel extends one hundred and twenty miles from S. E. to N. E., and is situated from 43 deg. 38' to 44 deg. 40' south lat., 179 deg. to 177 west, long.

A smaller group, bearing north of New Zealand, comprises the islands of CURTIS and MACAULEY, discovered by Captain Watts in the "Penrhyn" in 1788, and RAOUL and ESPERANCE, first seen by d'Entrecasteaux in 1793, called SUNDAY and HOPE ISLANDS in the English charts. These lands are moderately high; that of Sunday is the most elevated; it is about three leagues in circuit and well wooded; it has two small beaches on either side, and this group is the resort of the whale ships in the season; no less than thirty sail of shipping has been seen from one islet, called the FRENCH ROCK, employed in the sperm whale fishery. A few sailors reside on the islands which are situated in the space of from 29 deg. 20' to 31 deg. 28' south latitude from 178 deg. 43' to 179 deg. 36' east longitude, about three hundred miles due east of Bank's Peninsular, in the Island of Victoria.

NORFOLK ISLAND lies within three days' sail of New Zealand, and was discovered by Cook, who found the

NORFOLK ISLAND,

place uninhabited, but covered with the most exuberant vegetation, very similar in species to the indigenous trees and shrubs of the latter island. The phormium flax grows to a large size, and several cabbage palms; but the most peculiar feature in the forests of the country is the magnificent araucaria excelsa commonly called the Norfolk Island pine. On the establishment of the colony of New South Wales from the arid quality of the soil, it was found highly necessary to procure a place that would help to supply the growing wants of the colonist. In consequence, an establishment was formed at this island that produced ample returns; in 1794 this small station furnished eleven thousand bushels of Indian corn (holcus indicus) to the parent colony, without which supply many persons would have perished for hunger, as had been previously the case. The free population afterwards evacuated the island, which was made a penal receptacle for the most abandoned class of felons. These criminals build houses, clear the ground for planting, open roads, and cultivate various farinaceous legumes for the public service, especially the maize or Indian corn. No females are allowed to live on the island. The land is elevated, the principal mountain is formed of bay salt, eleven hundred feet above the level of the sea. The rocks within the islands are chalk of a yellowish cast; lava of a red hue and porous is frequently met with. Plains or flat land is scarcely to be found, but mountains and ravines are numerous, small torrents are common in the gorges that separate the heights from each other, remarkably pellucid and impregnated with iron. The island is about twenty-one miles in circumference, and

ITS BEAUTIES.

is situated in 29 deg. 2' south latitude, 165 deg. 42' east longitude. At the distance of five miles to the southward is a small islet named after Commodore Phillips, the first governor of the colony of New South Wales; the land is mountainous, about eight miles in circuit. The climate is very excellent, the air pure, soil very productive, and exhibits everywhere a fecundity truly beautiful. Almost every description of tropical fruits are easily produced; the land is covered with trees similar to those in the adjoining island, among other the celebrated pine that attains an almost incredible height. A gentleman long resident on this isle, measured one of these trees that had fallen; it was eleven feet in diameter at the. butt end, and at the height of seventy-five, measured eight feet in circumference; from this, the trunk inclined gently to the enormous length of two hundred and fifty-one feet. The blood wood, so termed from its hue, is found abundantly; among the fruits are successfully cultivated the citron, limes, guavas, vines, pomegranates, figs, coffee, and many others, that line the sides of the ravines and hilly flats, that arrive to the greatest perfection; the sugar cane and tobacco plant have been equally productive, together with a number of the umbelliferous tribes.

Norfolk Island possesses several well formed roads leading into the interior, without which the brush is so entangled it would be impossible to penetrate into the interior. The views in the country are very beautiful and romantic, the island has not been inaptly termed the garden of the Pacific. The only quadrupeds are the cats and rats which were introduced.

The military establishment is situated on the south

HOWE'S GROUPS.

side of the island. Landing is extremely difficult in the attainment, in consequence of a heavy surf continually lashing these rocky shores. Ships have been sailing on and off the island for several weeks together, unable to land the passengers or freight; the want of even a roadstead must ever prove a sensible drawback to the prosperity of these islands. This quarter of the globe is subjected to the infliction of hurricanes that blow with a fury that is scarcely to be conceived; the heaviest proceed from the southward, that often tear up large trees by the roots.

The small group of HOWE'S ISLANDS closes the account of the minor archipelagos in the vicinity of New Zealand, and included together with Australia under the title of MELANESIE by modern French geographers.

It is composed of two small islands, discovered by Captain Ball in 1788. The land is very high, the space they occupy is six miles from N.N.W. to S.S.E., At the distance of nine miles a very remarkable conical shaped rock rises directly from the ocean; the shore is steep, it is known as BALL'S PYRAMID. The principal land is inhabited by some seamen; good anchorage is afforded, it is situated in 31 deg. 31' south latitude, 156 deg. 50' east longitude.

MIDDLETON ISLAND was discovered by Lieutenant Shortland, in 1788. It is elevated land; a remarkable peak rises from the interior that is visible in clear weather at sea to the distance of twenty miles. Its position is S.S.E to N.N.W. in 20 deg. 10' south latitude, 157 deg. 30' east longitude. Between the above islands are situated the dangerous reefs of MIDDLETON and SERINGAPATAM.

GEOGRAPHICAL DATA

GEOGRAPHICAL POSITIONS of various principal PORTS, RIVERS, HEADLANDS, &c., in the Islands of New Zealand, and from observations of Cook, Vancouver, Duperrey, Herd, d'Urville, and La Place. The Islands are situated, according to Cook, between the latitudes of 34 deg. and 48 deg. south longitude; 181 deg. and 194 deg. west longitude, being the mean of innumerable observations and a transit of Venus. The following abbreviations indicate the authorities that have been consulted.

T. Tasman, C. Cook, V. Vancouver, Dy. Duperrey, H. Herd, D'U. D'Urville, F. Furneaux, G. Grey, Bn. Broughton, Lp. Laplace.

L

atit

ude

S.

Long

de E.

NORTH ISLAND, OR E'AINOMAWE

D'E

34

13

10

169

49

45

Three Kings, N. E. island, N. E. point,

mean..........................

H.

34

12

8

172

22

48 W

D'U.

34

13

35

169

49

50 E

North Cape......................

34

26

30

170

18

0

" " "

H.

34

24

29

173

9

48

Mount Camel...................

D'U.

34

49

0

170

48

25

Doubtless Bay, Point Surville........

ft

34

54

55

171

14

20

Wangaroa Entrance...............

tf

35

2

30

171

25

10

Ditto............................

Dy.

35

45

0

– -

– -

– -

Cavalhoes Islands, Northern point. Mo-

tu Kawa......................

H.

34

58

28

–

–

–

D'U.

35

9

28

171

49

40

Ditto, middle of the Entrance.....

Dy.

35

15

6

171

5

16

– – – – – – – – – – – Percy Island....

D'U.

35

10

171

1

20

– – – – – – – – – – – -Whale Rock, Nu-

nuki.........................

Dy.

35

14

171

35

25

– – – – – – – – – – – -Tipuna........H&

&D'U.

35

10

25

–

– –

– –

– – – – – – – – – – – -Ditto..........

Dy.

35

11

10

171

43

28

Kororarika Bay.................

H.

35

15

45

174

15

55

Lp.

35

14

36

171

49

7

Cape Brett, South Headland........

Dy.

35

10

20

172

0

40

Poor Knights, North Isle, North Point

D'U.

35

27

28

172

24

35

Wangari, or Bream Bay, Tewara,

North Point....................

" " "

35

50

40

172

14

30

H.

35

51

32

–

–

–

Thames, Point Rodney..............

C&H.

36

20

– e

–

–

– – – – Colville.................

H.

36

26

29

175

22

0

River, four feet anchor...........

C&H.

37

5

15

175

25

30

Waiheke Island .................

D'U.

36

42

30

172

50

6

Port Charles, East Point........ – – –

"

36

29

48

173

7

45

Mercury Bay, entrance...........

H.

36

48

1

173

26

25

Mayor Island, or Tuhua, North Point

D'U.

37

l6

10

173

54

30

GEOGRAPHICAL POSITION

L

atit

ude

S.

Longi

tude

E.

Tauranga Harbour .............

D'U.

37

37

0 -

174

51

30

Makatu ditto, or Town Point.....

37

46

30 1

174

7

20

Mount Edgecumbe...............

>>

37

50

40

174

41

25

Cape Runaway, or the Kaha.......

,,

37

33

0

175

47

40

Wakari, or White Island..........

H.

37

30

46

m

14

45W

Hick's Bay, or Warre Kahika......

D'U.

37

36

0

176

V

OK

H.

37

44

30

178

36

15W

East Cape Islet, Wanga Okino......

D'U.

37

42

20

176

20

35E

Mountain of Ikorangi. ............

ft

37

55

30

175

55

25

Tokomaru, North Point............

38

176

25

Uwoua, North Point..............

V.

38

21

0

178

37

E

" " "

D'U.

38

20

45

176

4

50W

Gable End Foreland, or Parre nui te ra

" " "

38

30

52

175

5

27

Kuri, or Young Nick's Head, south..

38

47

25

175

46

35

– – – – head of Poverty Bay, or Tu-

runga .........................

C

38

43

30

178

0

19E

Table Cape, or Nukutourua, South

Point.........................

D'U.

39

20

0

175

35

15W

Cape Kidnapper..................

39

40

55

174

48

20

Cape Palliser, or Koua Koua.......

41

37

40

173

1

5

Ditto...........................

H

41

34

40

173

4

0

Port Nicholson, or Wanga nui Atera

>>

42

22

7

174

51

15

ISLAND OF VICTORIA.

T.

42

10

0

189

3

E.

Cape Tierrawiti, or Poriwero .....

H.

41

18

47

174

42

45W

Queen Charlotte's Sound............

ft

41

5

30

174

25

45

Ship Cove ditto..................

41

7

5

174

20

Ditto............................

C.

41

5

564

174

25

7E.

Maunga nui......................

H.

41

19

4

174

5

W.

Cloudy Bay, North Point.........

D'U.

41

26

45

171

58

25E.

– – – – – -South ditto............

41

32

41

171

56

28

Cape Koamaru...................

41

7

15

172

7

30

Cape Campbell....................

41

40

172

7

12

Ditto...........................

H.

41

33

16

174

15

0W

Bank's Peninsular................

C.

43

32

0

186

30

E.

Port Otago.....................

H.

45

46

28

170

36

45W

Saddle Hill......................

ft

45

57

0

170

15

0

Cape Saunders. .................

45

53

55

170

33

30

Ditto............................

c.

45

35

0

180

4

E.

STEWART'S ISLAND.

Southern Port, S. Id.............

H.

47

11

31

167

26

45W

Broad Passage....................

47

11

0

– –

47

13

46

– –

– –

– –

Cable Island......................

it

47

12

55

167

26

30

South Cape.....................

ft

47

17

25

167

18

30

Ditto.........................

C.

47

19

0

172

12

E.

South-west Cape. .................

H.

47

16

37

167

14

30W

South Trap Rock................

1*7

29

43

167

36

30

North Trap....................

H

47

23

7

167

42

30

OF THE ISLANDS OF NEW ZEALAND

L

atitu

S.

Longi

tud

e. E.

Scares Islands, anchorage.........

V.

8

3

48

66

26

Anchor Island...................

0

0

0

166

5

0

Solander's Island, or Codfish.. ......

C.

46

31

0

92

49

0

West Cape............, ......

"

45

54

0

93

7

0

ISLAND OF VICTORIA.

Dusky Bay......................

" "

45

7

0

–

–

–

Ditto, North Point...............

"

45

38

0

–

–

–

Pickersgill Harbour................

it

45

47

26

166

18

0

Rocky Point......................

D'U.

0

54

0

–

–

–

Cape Foulwind.................

41

46

5

169

8

40

Cape Farewell...................

40

33

186

0

Ditto............................

D'U.

40

30

55

170

26

30

Cook's Streights, or Rau Koua......

Stephen's Island.................

G.

0

0

0

171

50

19

Two miles N. E. of ditto, ..........

C.

40

37

0

185

6

0

Entry Island, or Kapiti...........

G.

0

0

0

172

34

21

NORTH ISLAND

D'U.

39

24

0

–

– –

, –

Kawia.........................

38

40

0

– –

– –

– –

Waingaroa...................

38

24

c

– –

– –

Waikato........................

ft

37

59

0

–

–

–

Manukou........................

37

39

37

, –

– –

–

Kaipara. .........................

Dy.

36

35

37

–

–

–

Hokianga, South Head, or Araitehuru

H.

35

32

;

173

31

45W

Ditto North do...................

35

31

22

173

31

45

35

17

19

173

22

17

Reef Point........................

H

35

10

25

173

12

17

B

45

54

0

176

13

0E

29

30

168

18

0

NOTE 7.

I have had occasion previously to state, the surpassing splendour of a New Zealand forest, abounding in almost innumerable species of trees, principally of a serviceable nature to Europeans.

1 The tree which has hitherto attracted most attention has been the Kauri or yellow pine (pinus Australis) g. coniferae; which will challenge comparison for beauty and tapering height, with any forest tree at present known. Its bark is very glabrous, leaves, small and narrow, giving with its well clothed head,

FOREST TREES.

an umbrageous shade below, causing a continual twilight of gloomy grandeur. This tree exudes a large quantity of gum. The trunk grows to the height of from fifty to hundred feet without a branch. The western coast produces the best timber and largest of the tribe, probably from the effect of stormy winds, which have a serviceable effect in stopping its hasty growth. This timber has much diminished in quantity, in almost every district, and at the present moment some large ships are loading with spars of this staple only. The growth of the Kauri is confined, on the east coast, to the forests of Mercury Bay, and to Port Manukou on the west side of the island. In every forest worthy of the name, to the north of the above places, this tree is found. The natives have hitherto only made use of those, that have bordered the edges of rivers, for the forming of their canoes, having no mechanical knowledge, to remove such solid weights of timber to the water. Thus the innumerable forests of these trees inland, would not be made use by natives in their present state, for twenty generations to come. These forests many miles from the sea coast have been well trodden, but never touched for useful purposes by the hands of man. The attention of the British Government was first called to the value of the timber of the country by Cook; but an attempt to procure a cargo, was not made until 1820, when the store ships "Dromedary and Coromandel," were sent expressly for this purpose from England, and a small vessel the "Prince Regent" from Sydney. Few of the Kauri pine spars were procured by these vessels, their lading principally consisting of the

VARIETY IN THE PINE TRIBE.

inferior white pine, called Kahikatea; this injured the name of the yellow pine, which has since been found, on long trial, to equal in flexibility the best northern firs, and has been made use of as main and top masts in some of our largest frigates in the navy. It is very buoyant in the water, tough, stringy, and often twisted; it has a handsome close grain lightly tinged yellow, and a strong odour, peculiar to itself; it has been much used for sawing purposes by the English residents located for the last twenty years in the country. As such it is admirably adapted for boards, plank-scantlings, either for housebuilding or planking a ship's sides, decks, &c. A house built of this wood, with proper attention, will remain in order for fifty years; for treenails, bulwarks, wedges, it is also serviceable. It planes smooth, for oars it has not the flexibility of our ash. It would be much superior to the best Riga spars, but for its being somewhat brittle. The young Kouris have an ungraceful appearance, but few trees equal it in outward beauty when grown to maturity. The bark requires to be knocked off the trunk, soon after the tree is felled, when it easily peels off; otherwise it hardens, and becomes very tenacious. Many of these trees have been seen forty feet in circumference. The sap inclines to that side of the tree which is most shaded from the rays of the sun, and is found from three to seven inches thick. When the tree is felled, this matter soon rots, and is early reduced to powder by a small worm that feeds on it. The gum is not soluble in water; it has a strong taste of turpentine, it may be serviceable as a varnish, but

PINUS AUSTRALIS.

hitherto it has resisted every method made use of to destroy its brittleness. The spars contracted to be furnished by respectable traders in Hokianga and the river Thames, or Mercury bay, to the British Government, are required to be in length, from seventy-four to eighty-four feet long) from twenty one to twenty-four inches in diameter, perfectly straight, without the knots caused by branches.

2 The Kahikatea (treniperus Novae Zelandicae) g. coniferae, is very similar in outward appearance to the Kouri, for which it has been often mistaken by strangers, and the superficial observer will find some practice necessary, to discriminate between the difference of the trees. The name by which it is distinguished, is that of white pine; it is found in forests, but principally in alluvial or swampy soils. It has a majestic appearance when surrounded by the smaller, and less aspiring trees of the forest. The leaves are sharp, and similar to the yew, and a berry, which, when ripe, has a red hue, are held in much esteem, as a fruit by the natives. The timber is very light in colour and weight, and exceedingly sappy, and the weather produces on the plank of this tree a barometrical effect, for after it has been worked up as inside lining for rooms, for which it is most calculated, it shrinks and gives with every change of weather, even after the lapse of years. From the scarcity of the Kouri in the sawing districts, Kahikatea is much used. The jovial fraternity of sawyers, who, when they commence, which is whenever they have the opportunity afforded them, "drink deep 'ere they

GENUS CONIFERS.

depart" admire this wood, from its softness, and the ease with which they can cut it up.

3 Tanikaha (pinus asplenifolius) g. coniferae, is a very valuable species of pine, very serviceable to the shipwright and general builder. This wood is hard and tough. It is less effected by change of season, than any other pine in the country; it seldom is seen beyond the height of fifty feet, with a circumference of twelve feet. It is remarkably durable, but suffers much from worms, when exposed to mud or water, it being perforated like unto a honeycomb, and yet retains its pristine hardness. The bark is curiously ringed by natural distinct projections, about the distance of six inches from each other. The leaves are similar to those of the Tamarind tree, of the East and West Indies. It is in much request for quarterings, staunchions and exposed flooring, such as for ship's decks, verandas, threshing floors, &c. It exudes less gum than others of its tribe, has less sap, and of a darker hue.

5 Totara, (taxus australis) g. coniferae, similar in colour to the former wood, and is known as red pine. It grows to the height of sixty feet, with a circumference often above twenty feet. The timber is brittle, snapping short, and splits well into shingles, it is very serviceable to the builder. This tree is a great favourite among the natives, especially to the southward, who make their canoes principally of the Totara. It flourishes best on the west coast, where it often grows thirty feet in circumference. It is found on the banks of rivers of a size so immense, as to give a name

FOREST TIMBER TREES

to the locality in which perhaps a single tree is to be found only. This tree is very hardy, the roots spread themselves in all directions, very much elevated from the adjacent soil which the rains wash away. The trunk has a smooth surface, and the sun splits the outer bark in appearance, as if choped by an axe. This tree has but little sap, and works well, though the grain often runs uneven, it is very heavy, and not much affected by change of weather after being seasoned.

The Rata (Calistemon Zelandicae), is an invaluable wood to the shipwright. The branches of this tree are twisted in a natural manner, that form, when dressed, excellent timbers for the largest ships. It grows to the height of sixty feet, and the head and branches extend very far; the wood is close grained and stringy, and when polished, of a deep mahogany red, the grain is remarkably handsome, and well fitted for furniture. The girth of this timber is often full twenty feet, growing at the base remarkably large, with straggling tough roots, that run above ground. The leaves do not appear, but at the extremities of the branches which give an umbrageous shade. It is a very hardy tree.

6 The Pohutokaua or Potikawa (Metrosideros excelsa), is of the same genus as the preceding, solely differing from the exposed situation of the latter. This is the hardiest of timber trees, and is found jutting out in immense crooked limbs from every nook however craggy, or exposed rocky headlands on the sea side, and surprises the traveller, that so many cubical feet of timber can be attached to its station, with the ex-

OF AN INDURATED NATURE.

tremely scanty proportion of soil around its stem. It is well adapted for ship timbers, is crooked, close grained, brittle, tough, and of deep brown colour. It is difficult to work up by the joiner, for its extreme hardness, but when polished, forms a beautiful and durable article for furniture. Early in the summer the polypetalous branches are clothed with large flowers, of a lake or crimson hue, of the polyandria species, with a quantity of stamens, covered on the extremities with a light yellow dust; the limbs often equal the trunk in diameter.

7 The Puriri (Metrocideros florida or quercus Australis), is a wood whose durability equals any of the timbers in the country; it is very tough and close grained, and has been termed the Oak of the Pacific; but the Teak would be more appropriate, as its properties more resemble the latter wood; similar to that eastern production, it does not lessen in value by lying exposed in salt water, is equally hard, and of a pale olive colour. This wood has been taken out of a river, where it had been used as a stake to fasten canoes, for perhaps upwards of twenty years, and has been found to be in no degree affected by the immersion or by the worms. This timber has but little sap, being of an oleaginous nature; the trunk grows often to the height of thirty feet without a branch protruding, which are crooked, and of large size in diameter, and extend far distant from the parent stem, it is usually faulty at heart; but except causing it to be cut as plank to disadvantage, it does not injure the wood; it is well adapted as blocks under houses, sleepers for wharfs, ground sills,

FOREST TIMBER TREES

timbers for the largest shipping, and any work in which durability and strength are required. As blocks for shipping and beams, this wood is unsurpassed; it is very heavy, and has an odour peculiar to itself when cut green. The Puriri, similar to the Totara, is often found by itself on the banks of rivers, giving from its immense size and profusion of umbrageous leaves, an appellation to the district in its vicinity. The latter are frontated, and it flowers in spring.

8 The Rimu, (cupressinum,) is one of the most graceful trees of the country. The wood is tough and brittle; the grain very beautiful when polished, and will be much admired by future connoisseurs in ornamental woods. Its appearance inclines most to the cypress; the branches are similarly pensile to that symbol of sacred sorrow. The tree grows to the height of sixty and seventy feet, with a circumference of about twelve feet. It has minute asperifolious leaves, and thrives best in alluvial soil. Its bark is rough, and the trunk geniculated; but the nodules do not project much. This tree is common in the land; it exudes a hard gum, strongly impregnated with turpentine.

9 The Kaikatoa, (Philadelphia Australis.) a polyanthus, called the tea plant from its leaves possessing the same myrtiform character. This petalous shrub grows in argillous soil on the most barren plains, and is invariably found covering jutting headlands, exposed to the fury of the. heavy gales that blow from every quarter; in such places it grows from three to six feet; but in well sheltered forests, it attains the height of thirty feet. It is denuded of branch leaves below; but towards the top it is well covered; in addition to innumerable

OF AN INDURATED NATURE.

buds, which flower throughout the year, bearing white and pink blossoms. This flosculous appearance embellishes the plains, and emits an odour that renders fragrant the country in its vicinity. The leaves also possess a strong aroma, and are used by resident Europeans. An infusion of this herb is regarded as peculiarly serviceable to persons in a reduced state, whose previous moralities will not admit of the strictest investigation. It is very astringent. This wood, called to the southward, Manuka, is remarkably hard and durable, and throughout the country is an especial favourite with the natives, who make their spears, paddles, fishing-rods, &c, of this useful timber. It has an oleaginous moisture, scarce any sap, and similar in colour to our oak. The small shrub is used in abundance as broom stuff by residents and shipping, and when green, burns with, perhaps, a greater rapidity than when dry. The Kaikatoa, in the Island of Victoria, grows often to the height of fifty feet, the temperature being more agreeable to this hardy tree. A very similar wood exists to the southward, called Rohito, of which carved boxes, for holding small trinkets and feathers, are made by the people.

10 The Hinou is a handsome tree. Its plank is very frangible on exposure to the sun or air. It is in much request by the native tribes, who make use of the bark for dying jet black the threads of the muka or dressed flax, of which they either wholly make, or interweave with, their superior garments. The bark, which is comminutible, is kept some time immersed in water, and this infusion forms the dye. The leaves are cus-pated and very poracious.

FOREST TIMBER TREES

11 Towa, (laurus Australis) is a useful timber for boarding the interior of houses; and, though entirely differing in genus or outward appearance from the graceful Kahikatea, is of similar short lived service to that wood. It attains a large size; its branches are irregular; leaves cuspated and colour of crysolyte; it cuts easily.

12 The Towai, (a podocarpus) is but a small tree compared with those preceding. Its wood is very serviceable, being tough and close grained. It has a handsome deep red colour when polished. It grows to the heighth of twenty-five feet, and then is richly furnished with virent leaves. The wood is heavy and but little used hitherto.

13 The Rewa rewa, (pinus rewarewa,) is a handsome grained wood, very serviceable to the builder and joiner. Until well seasoned it is much given to shrinking. It is of a white or slightly tinged with yellow cast, and admits of being used as an inside lining to rooms, to which it adds a handsome appearance. It works freely and planes smooth. The grain is very variegated. It flowers in spring, with serrated leaves somewhat frontated. It grows to the height of sixty feet; but from its small diameter compared to other timber in its vicinity, it has hitherto been seldom made use of.

14 Tarairi, (laurus tarairi,) is among the least valuable of timber trees. It is bacciferous, bearing a dark purple berry, on which the wild pigeon feeds heartily. The taste is particularly acrid. The leaves are frontated, with the polished surface and size of the handsomest laurel.

15 The Kowai, (Edwardsia mycrophylla,) is met with

OF AN INDURATED NATURE.

principally on the banks of rivers; it is a serviceable wood; growing to the height of fifty feet, and five feet in circumference. In the season of spring this tree makes a beautiful appearance, being entirely covered with bright chrome or golden coloured flowers, which hang corymbriated, and succeeded by long pendulated pods, the especial food of the Tui and other birds. Its beauty is not dimmed by the reflection in the adjacent stream. It has but little sap, with straggling branches. It flowers in September. The timber is hard and durable; in use for paddles, &c.

16 Mairi or maidi, (cedrus Zelandicae,) is the closest grained and toughest of woods in the country. It is found to grow largest on the west coast, where it attains the height of sixty feet. It is extremely durable, and so very hard as to turn the edge of the tools applied to it. In ship-building it is very serviceable, but very brittle. It has a cuspated leaf and branches out very irregularly. The grain is not unlike the European beech. It has little or no sap, very heavy, and not affected by the climate.

17 The Kawaka grows to the height of thirty feet. It is a handsome dark coloured wood when polished; ser-viceable to the joiner; and from its small diameter, about two feet at most, it has not been hitherto much sought after; as the most useful and not ornamental has been hitherto required.

18 The Kahika is a useful wood, but little known from a similar cause with the above.

19 The Ti is a useful close grained wood, well adapted for handspikes. It grows to forty feet with crooked branches.

FOREST TIMBER TREES

20 The Akki, (lignumvitae,) when young is much used for boat timber, and, when cut fresh from the bush, it can easily, with the aid of the spoke-shave, be put into any shape; and when it dries in a few hours, it will not change the form it may be placed in. The tree grows crooked with a diameter of nine inches. It admits of a polish, and has a beautiful deep red. grain; few woods are better fitted for cabinet work. It has little sap, and works easily when green; but from its many nodules, which render it very brittle when dry, it is found of difficult workmanship.

21 The Kohikohi another of the many laurel trees of the soil, grows to the heighth of fifty feet. This tree may be regarded as one of the ornamental woods that has yet to come into use. The leaves are similar in shape and polish to our laurel, and of this tribe, is remarkable for spreading its roots to a great distance. The wood is of deep red colour, and works well. For paling it splits free.

22 Manawa and Tuputupu, two varieties of the well-known mangrove, cover the mud banks of the rivers and creeks of the country in which they flourish most. These trees sometimes grow to the height of twenty-six feet before they branch, eight feet of which is submerged in the salt water during the flood tides, which, retreating at the ebb, leave the trees and roots uncovered. Often the branches, leaves and seed, are under water several hours twice per diem. When these trees commence to grow they are often entirely under salt water for years. Oysters and other shell fish, muscles especially feed in these banks, and fasten in the branches

OF AN INDURATED NATURE.

of the Manawa at flood tide, and on the ebb, are left pendant from them in clusters, exposed in the air. The saline acridity of the leaves, impart an unpleasant taste to the fish, who also feed on the pere-carpium of the seed which the latter deciduously casts off, on arriving at maturity. The Manawa is serviceable for many things, its ashes are not the least valuable, as an alkali in the preparation of soap.

23 The Mahoi is an elegant tree, growing to the height of fifty feet; its wood is light in substance, of a reddish hue, admitting when polished, of being converted into furniture.

24 The Matia is a durable wood growing often to the height of sixty feet; it has similar properties to the red pine or Totara, but grows less bulky.

25 The Tepau is a similar wood to Towai.

26 The Pongo, and Wou, (achroma pentandria Ze-landica) are varieties of the corktree, when cut down an adhesive juice exudes in some quantity, and are of much service to the natives in their fishing nets. The fronds are five feet long, virent, circumference of trunk one and a half foot, covered with chaffy scales.

27 Karaka maori, (laurus karaka,) grows to the height of forty feet, with handsome frontated polished leaves. The wood close grained, and from its ornamental appearance and usefulness as a fruit tree, it has never been brought into use.

28 Horoeka, (aralia Zelandica), is generally found on elevated lands, grows to the height of thirty feet, leaves dark green, in tufts ternated in short stalks growing from the trunk, which is wanting in branches; it is found in shaded situations.

SPERM WHALE FISHERY.

29 Pate (Aralia polygama,) trunk slender, and pithy, grows to twenty feet, leaves virent digitated and epinated at the edges; this wood is made use of for procuring fire by friction.

There are also a variety of the Horseka plants.

There are many other woods of much service to Europeans, differing in quality, among others: the 30 Warangai – 31 Pata – 32 Niho – 33 Tangio, – 34 Maihoi – 35 Nene – 36 Taraiti – 37 Kohihiku – 88 Waihupuku – 39 Kaikamoko – 40 Pukapuka – 41 Karanghu – 42 Utuhutu – 43 Angiani – 44 Akkas of various kinds. 45 Parekireki, &c. Of all these woods there are abundant quantities.

NOTE 8.

The principal exports from the colonies of East, South, and Western Australia, including Van Dieman's Land, and last, not least, New Zealand, is the produce from the Sperm whale, and Black or Right whale fishery, which is successfully carried on in the adjacent seas, on the coasts of those countries throughout the year. The two genus are termed balaena; and are unquestionably the largest living animals known since the deluge. They are divided into two distinct species, with the sole similarity of their possessing, heart, lungs, intestines, and warm blood, common to animated corporeal bodies. The genus MYSTICETUS, known in the northern fishery as the Greenland whale, are found in

SPERM WHALE FISHERY.

vast numbers in the Southern Seas, but do not compete in size with similar finny tribes, that formerly abounded in the cheerless Arctic regions. There are many deviations in the form of the Right whale; but not of sufficient importance in the internal organization to constitute a different species. Though these whales are of less size to those found within the northern seas, yet many grow to the immense size of seventy feet in length, and the breadth where the fin or flipper is placed, (which is the bulkiest part,) is often eighteen feet. Of the sexes, the female is invariably the largest. This species are known to whalemen at a distance from the Macrocephalus or sperm whale, by the former having two spiracles or breathing holes, in the centre of the forehead, the latter fish possess two holes also within the head, but an exterior one only, consequently when respiring, (which whales can only do by raising their immense heads out of the water,) they blow or perflate the element from that single spiracle.

The RIGHT WHALE is dentated with a set of laminae of an horny substance, well known in commerce as whalebone. They are very numerous, often amounting in number to two hundred and fifty slabs in a single fish, decading gradually in length from the centre of the upper jaw, from eight feet to six inches; the weight of bone in a single mouth is generally from five to seven hundred pounds. The laminae lie within the upper gum, about six inches, from which they taper to a point, the whole length of each terminating by long black hair, in substance similar to fine bristles.

BLACK WHALE FISHERY

These laminae answer the place of a sieve to the fish when in search of food; and they are often observed scooping with their bulky heads for such marine ani-malculae as they may fortunately find; and when successful, after shutting their immense under lip, they exude the salt water through these teeth, which they have taken in along with their food; which is principally spawn of a pabulous nature, of a red and yellow hue, called by the fishermen brit; which is sometimes seen supernatant on the surface of the ocean, many miles around. The upper part of the head is called the scalp, the joint of which connects the frame in which the laminae are imbedded. The tongue is formed partly of blubber, and a callous kind of flesh, which boiled in oil, is not to be rejected in a voyage of sometimes nearly four years' duration, and seldom (from Europe) less than three years; such being the length of time required, to procure, what is termed a voyage in the South Pacific Ocean, attended of course with various success. The quantity of oil to be procured does not depend on the length of a whale. A Right whale of sixty feet may give ninety barrels of oil, or ten imperial tons, the tongue will render six barrels of an inferior quality, and the under lips, (a mass of blubber,) will give four barrels.

The most astonishing portion of these leviathans, consists in the excessive smallness of the eye; the ball being often of less magnitude than that of a haddock. The size causes no diminution of sight or expression, as it partakes of that pathetic cast, for which the eye of the elephant is so remarkable. The retina is not

IN THE SOUTH PACIFIC.

more dilatant than in human beings, and it is placed in the whale of about one third the extreme length of the body, from the snout, if it may be so termed behind which, a fin or flipper five feet in length by four in breadth is placed, some four feet below it; – this portion alone affords nearly a barrel of good oil.

The tail termed flukes, as forming part of a cargo, is seldom made use of; though probably in a future scarcity of these fish, they will doubtless undergo the process of bailing with the other parts. The extreme breadth of the tail across, is often twenty-five feet. The strength of the fish lies principally in this part, it lashes the water around, either when actuated by sport or from agony, with an almost incredible velocity, changing the placid sea into a whirling foam around. Its thickness is in proportion with its breadth, yet it is remarkably vivacious, and perfectly under the control of the animal, and is its sole instrument of defence.

The flippers or fins are used for percussion; they are also of service to protect their young, technically called the cub or calf. The male is termed the bull, and the mother the cow whale. When the latter is attacked by the fishers, and her calve be present, she will incline the lower extremity of her body downward, raising up her head, the little calf quickly ascends the smallest part of the parent's back, its small fins pressing her sides, on which the mother dives instantly out of sight, and after swimming below for some time, ascends again at some distant spot for respiration, the calf who still

RIGHT OR BLACK WHALE.

holds on to its position, also inhales its quantum of air previous to another plunge.

In the female of this fish, the teats are not discernable to the observer, until the outer cuticle is removed; two of them are then discovered just visible, so very dissimilar in its various proportions, is the whale from any other animal it may resemble internally; the same remark is applicable to the ears, which also lie unseen until a removal of the skin, with which they are covered.

The Right whale abounds in all the southern oceans throughout the year. During the months from April to October, they make for the land, and visit the various bays and indents on the coasts of Chili, Peru, New Holland, Van Dieman's Land, and especially the bays and bights of New Zealand, to calve and procreate, also for abrasing from their skin the barnacles and other testaceous excrescences that adhere to it. From October to April, or the summer season, they are found in soundings and banks in the ocean. The veins of this tribe contain a greater quantity of blood than is found in the other species.

The aboriginal inhabitants of the N.W. coast of America, it is stated, account many fish of a less bulky nature, as whales; but six varieties of these species having laminae instead of being denticulated, are all that is known to Europeans.

The GIBBOSA, or HUMPBACK, derives its cognomen from having sarcomas or fleshy protuberances on its back, and differs from the Mysticetus only, in being of less size, and the addition of humps, which latter

FINBACK WHALES.

are of an addipous nature. Some of these fish have yielded seventy barrels of oil. Some few have been seen with two or three humps; the latter are very rare, one hump is generally occipital, the other near to the flukes; these whales are gregarious, perflating in shoals.

The PHYSALIS, or FINBACK, is a much longer fish than either of the preceding, without their immense breadth, being two-thirds of less bulk. It is distinguished afar off by a fin projecting from the hinder part of the back, in various forms; sometimes terminating in a sharp point, others I have seen perfectly round, standing erect from three to six feet in height.

This whale yields from twenty to thirty barrels of oil. It is the most difficult fish for a whaleman to capture, and they seldom attempt it. Of all the whale tribe, they are most tenacious of life, and few whalers can boast of having caught a Finback. One of these fish off the coast of New Zealand, received an iron, (a kind of harpoon to which a line is attached,) but it drew the boat after it with such velocity, as to render it afterwards useless, the percussion arising from so rapid a motion through the water entirely detaching the planks.

Off the Falkland islands, a Finback was caught in 1834; there were no less than fifteen boats after the fish, and it was at last caught by running itself aground in shallow water. They delight in each others company, I have often seen them in shoals of from twenty to a hundred off Madagascar, on either of the coasts of New Holland, Cape Horn, the entire east coast of South and North America, to the bay of Fundy. The noise caused by the perflating and sports of so many

VARIETY IN THE SPECIES

fish, renders the sight one of the most interesting in nature.

The head of the Finback is sharp, with the upper jaw lamellated, and similar to all the fish of this species, the under lip closes over the bone, which is much smaller than that of the Right whale. These fish are not accounted vicious; they visit the coast for similar purposes as the mysticetus.

The Gibbosa and Physalis act alike when their calves are wounded, the cow immediately placing the little sufferer beneath her, holding on to it by pressing its sides with her fins, retains her grasp until it dies, then reluctantly relaxes her useless labour. The fishermen generally contrive to strike the calf, being then certain of capturing their mother; the bulls, on the contrary, exhibit less emotion, their sympathies are solely awakened for themselves; "each for himself," is the best exemplification of a maxim invariably followed by them.

The PIKE HEADED BALAENA seldom acquires a greater length than forty feet, with a circumference of sixteen feet. The head is much more pointed than the Finback, yet perhaps this whale is simply an outward deviation from the form of that fish; it has also a fin at the extremity of the back. It is not possible to conceive what adjutary it can be to the creature. It has, in common with its species the same bibulous method of sucking its food. The lobes of the flukes are more pointed than in others of the tribe. Its two spiracles are placed in the snout, and not on the head.

The MUSCULUS, or large lipped whale, has an immense

OF THE RIGHT WHALE.

under lip, the upper part of the head ends in a snout, the throat differs from whales in general. In this fish it is absolutely cavernous. It is found in length sixty feet, and half that quantity in circumference. It devours small fish and the uliginous food common to its tribe. It has three fins on its back.

The RAZORBACK is so termed from that part being remarkably serrated; its snout is very much pointed, like to the Porpoise. Doubtless there are many varieties of this genus, but the internal or even external difference is of so trifling a nature, as not to require a separate description. The flukes of these tribes are remarkably large; nature has therefore provided, that when these fish are in the womb, and even some weeks after their birth, the lobes lie flat on each other, and they do not take their eventual position until after some exercise of their natant powers. The Mysticetus has many enemies to compete with. The Barnacle, commonly known as the whale louse, insinuates itself behind the fins of the fish – a part the most sensitive – and on most other portions of the body. They are often seen in the winter season rubbing their enormous heads against the rocks, trying to rid themselves of such troublesome visitors. A more destructive and wholesale species of enemy is found in a species of GRAMPUS, called by the South seamen the "Killer," which is said to be (man excepted) its greatest scourge. The pisciverous epicurean is said to indulge himself on the tongue only of the Right whale; this bonne bouche obtained, the Killer seeks no farther aliment from the body of its victim, which notwithstanding its immense bulk is an inoffensive animal.

SPERM WHALES,

The water is ejected from the spiracle of these animals sometimes to the height of twenty feet, and the noise it occasions is heard in calm weather a mile distant.

The PHYSETER MACRO-CEPHALUS, or Spermaceti whale, belongs to a distinct species to that above described. This fish is also called CACHALOT, and is distinguished at a distance by its ejecting water through its single spiracle, situated at the extreme point of the head, to the height of four feet.

The head of the Sperm whale is the most obtuse form of any animated being we have knowledge of (see frontispiece). It is nearly quadrate, and composes one third part of the body, which is frequently eighty feet in length. Its eye is similarly placed as that in the Right whale, and is alike in size and expression. The pectoral fins are five feet long, placed under the eye, as stated in the latter creature; the jaws are enormous, about one third the length of the body, the upper containing to appearance, but few teeth, simply sockets to receive the lower teeth, but a similar number perhaps exist in the upper jaw, which being very flat in senior whales could only arrive at that shape by continual abrasion. I have seen the upper jaws of whales, killed in a senescent state, that shewed incipient nodules, but they are not often perceivable.

The tongue is but small for its immensely long mouth; they are generally found about three feet in length and ten inches wide, of a faded white colour, covered by a tough culicle, slightly corrugated longitudinally with the tongue. It has no blubber at-

THEIR DESCRIPTION.

tached to it, and is thrown away by the fishermen. The under jaw is well furnished with a set of teeth each embedded three fourths its length in an elastic gummy excrescence. Some lower jaws contain forty, others fifty of these teeth, which are firmly set by the extended size they gain within the jaw, terminating below with an ivory scoriae. Some teeth, when freshly extracted, have weighed nine pounds, but the average in a large whale may be three pounds. When first taken from the jaw, the teeth have a dark appearance, from the moisture contained in them, when dry they become an inferior ivory; differing in length from six to nine inches, and in width from one to four inches.

Many of the teeth are hollow within as the horns of a bull, others are to the contrary, filled more or less with scoriae; they differ much in form, but are mostly coniferous. Several of them incline over the base, others are ground flat by the incessant champing of the jaws, and I have fallen in with many having broken teeth, evidently the effect of party disputes.

Armed with such an enormous engine of self-defence the sperm whale need not fear a host of killers; – man is the only enemy arrayed against these animals, as they elude even the subtile barnacle that clings to the swiftest vessel.

The largest circumference of this animated mass, is where the eye is placed; the body tapers towards the tail, which has two lobes about seventeen feet in length. Near the centre of the back lies a tu-

SPERMACETI WHALES,

bercle, or hump of a tough nature, ending very abruptly.

The flukes and fins of all the cetaceous tribe are somewhat porous, filled with an unctuous matter.

This Whale is covered with an outer cuticle, as transparent as the substance called goldbeaters skin, beneath which it is covered with hair perfectly sleek and black, covered with an uliginous matter, the texture and length resemble the clothing of the seal tribe (Phocae).

The internal organization of cetaceous fish, resembles quadrupeds in general, approaching nearest to the hog, the similarity is perfect in the oscified parts, viscera, etc.

The upper part of the head of the Sperm whale is called the case, and contains, in nearly a fluid state, the celebrated spermaceti; its warmth when taken from the animal is similar to that of blood in the human body, and is drawn forth in buckets fashioned for the purpose; a large whale will contain in its head fifteen barrels or four hundred and forty-eight gallons. This oil is all pure sperm, technically called head matter. Between the case and upper jaw lies a large mass of blubber, which yields nearly double the quantity that will be procured from the case. Spermaceti when in a frigid state hardens, and has a very niveous appearance. The tail or flukes are seldom boiled down. The quantity of oil a fish will yield depends on its size and health; a calf about a fortnight old will perhaps yield twenty barrels; a single mammoth fish has yielded

THEIR HABITS.

a hundred and thirty barrels, in value. 1200 pounds at the present prices; but few such prizes are taken of this latter size.

The Sperm whale presents a formidable appearance to the young fisherman. Its enormous lower jaw, well studded with grinders, perfectly under the controul of the animal, which has often crushed a boat into splinters, differs exceedingly from the comparatively harmless bone of the Right whale.

The auricular organs of the Sperm whale are curiously concealed by the gelabrous appearance of the body, only perceivable on removing the skin, under which they lie in a cubiculary position. The animal, it would be supposed, is particularly dull in its perception, had we not ocular proof, as well as many credible anecdotes evidencing to the contrary. These fish, after being once alarmed, dive under the ocean, and are seen to rise slowly in a perpendicular position, with their blunt heads more or less above the surface of the water, in apparently a listening attitude, remaining in that position for a full half hour, scarcely moving. An electrical feeling is also at times perceivable among them. A shoal of upwards of a hundred of these fish, have been seen spreading themselves over the ocean, disporting as far as the human eye could reach around, from the ship's mast-head; presently a whaleman throws a lance at one of these marine monsters, who no sooner feels the wound, than an instantaneous disappearance ensues of the shoal; a simultaneous feeling appears to pervade them all, however distant from each other, diving with their utmost celerity; there are but few South seamen

SPERMACETI WHALES,

but have experienced this fact, many of whom have looked around in astonishment, when in the midst of a shoal of these leviathans, suddenly finding themselves solus, a lance perhaps thrown from a distant boat, piercing one of the fish. It is difficult to what cause to attribute this feeling, as the auriculary powers of the whale are not disturbed by a boat being propelled in front of the fish, which is the best position to attack it, as the eye from its oblique position cannot glance forward or behind the body.

The throat of the sperm whale is very narrow, which will account for its incapacity to ingurgitate any substance, not partaking of a gelatinous nature; consequently its food is composed principally of medusae, and a gelatine substance called Squid, which has many arms or feelers, of great length, with beaks similar to the cartilaginous bills of birds, of a transparent brown colour. This, but partially known substance, is said to be viviporous. The whale, when in the agonies of death ejects the food it has previously taken, and these medusas have been expelled forth from the fish upwards of thirty feet in length, the arms being of less magnitude, but longer than the body itself. Young sand sharks three and four feet long, I have seen among other exuviae, to issue from the body of the agonised fish.

The fin or flippers serve to propel the whale, the ossified skeleton resembling those of the seal tribe; from the extreme smalless of this member to that of the Right whale, the young calf when wounded, cannot be carried off by its mother when in danger, but the little one swims equally swift by her side.

THEIR PECULIAR HABITS.

When in the womb, just previous to parturition, it is about six feet in length; the flukes lie infoliated as in right whales. These fish when sporting, often leap out of the water, which is termed breaching. When below the water they make a crepitating noise through their breathing orifice, the sound of which may be likened to the snapping of sticks, doubtless a preliminary to respiration, when the whaleman hears this noise from a direction beneath his boat, he pauses not for a repetition, but hastily pulls away from the unseemly place, fearful of the fish breaching, and crushing the boat in pieces between its ponderous jaws, or dashing it in atoms by a blow from its tail.

The cow whale is not gemelliparous, and after incubation are supposed to carry the foetus twelve months; some few have been found with twins, but it is rare; the lacteal aliment is of a pure white colour. The little calf is its mother's delight, and though these animals (as Cuvier classifies them) are gentle and inoffensive, yet in the protection of her young she exhibits a ferocity, little consonant with her usual conduct.

Whales differ much in outward colour: the outer skin of many being quite white, others are black, brown, and an ocrous dingy red, or mottled, not a few partake of a dark atramentous appearance.

The Sperm whale is found in all the oceans above stated, and are met with in the sixtieth degree of south and north latitude, amid the tropical heats of the equator, and the ice-bound regions of the New South Shetlands. These fish are gregarious also, and migratory in their movements, seldom frequenting the same latitude in an

AMBERGRIS.

ensuing season, and whalemen who have procured a voyage or cargo one season, have often been minus of oil, by adhering to the same place, in the following year. No experienced South seaman will calculate for a certainty where he may fill his ship, those that have acted according to predetermination, have returned to the port they sailed from, with scarce sufficient to pay the expenses. The like ill success has been occasioned by a contrary conduct, whalemen sailing in quest of a cargo, over every sea they have heard as frequented by whales, forgetting it is necessary to remain for a reasonable time about one place. I remember meeting with a shipmaster, who had been at sea twenty months, with one hundred and fifty barrels of oil only, from the circumstance of navigating at every point of the compass; he told me he should remain on the middle ground, as the Pacific Ocean is termed between New Zealand and New Holland; he accordingly did so, and returned to port with three thousand barrels within forty months.

The substance called Ambergris, is an additional article to the profits of a sperm voyage. This substance is of a stercoraceous nature, and is found in either a single mass, or in many pieces in the excremental glands of the sperm whale. The odoriferous powers attached to the material, does not belong to it until long after it has been ejected by the animal, for when lately exuded, the smell is of the most foetid and offensive description; some savans have determined, that ambergris is composed of bees' wax, which might be reasonably doubted, when Cape Horn is situated in 57 south latitude, and that country or Palmers

VALUE OF THE FISHERY.

Land further south, it must naturally be supposed, is not very favourable to the production of either bees' wax or honey. This substance is formed from indigestion of the food, and the constipation of the fish. I believe my opinion to be singular, that a stoppage in the glands is caused by the horny beaks of the squid, causing sickliness in the whale, and producing ambergris; these beaks are often found imbedded within the matter; whatever may be its primordial formation, it is produced by the sperm whale only.

The value of the oil yielded from the Sperm whale is generally about treble the price of that produced from the right or black whale.

The South Sea fishery appears to have commenced some sixty years since on the coast of South America, and about forty years past we have an account of a whaleman touching on the coast of New Zealand for refreshments. In those days the scurvy, one of the most frightful in the catalogue of human diseases reigned predominant, and few escaped its visitation; its effects were various, commencing at different parts of the human body. Scurvy is not banished from South Sea voyages, even at the present day; but a ship-master has so many opportunities afforded him for refreshing his crew, without deviating from his tract, among a thousand isles, where suitable fresh provisions can be abundantly obtained, that a malignant attack of the disease, might now be attributed to negligence on his part. Goats, hogs, yams, tarro, cocoa nuts, arrow root, plantains, wild turmerie, ginger and sugar cane, poultry, an excellent variety

EFFECTS OF SCURVY.

of fish, and many European vegetables, may be had throughout the islands of the Pacific.

It is somewhat singular, that few seamen on board ships from Europe and America are so much afflicted with scurvy, as those men serving in a similar capacity on board vessels from the Australian colonies; the latter people appear, from numerous instances, to suffer as much after being at sea four months, as the former feel from an absence from port of treble that length of time. To those who make use of ardent spirits, or others who have attached their signatures to the script of the total abstinence societies, the effects appear to be the same. A volume would scarce suffice to describe this scourge to the seaman; the afflicted generally feel much relief when the land wind is wafted towards them, long before the shores are visible, and a cure is partly effected by burying the limbs in the earth.

The South Sea fishery is carried on in ships from one hundred to five hundred tons, calculated to carry from eight hundred to five thousand barrels of oil; the principal owners of vessels employed in this commercial speculation, belong to London, all the North eastern parts of the United States, Port Jackson, the rapidly rising settlements of South Australia, and Hobart Town. The largest vessels employed, and the most numerous, belong to the Americans. The French have latterly entered into the traffic, and the Dutch will probably turn their attention to this commerce, in which formerly they were principally engaged. The British make use of the imperial gallon, of nine barrels to the ton, the old measure of eight

WHALE SHIPS.

barrels or two hundred and sixty-two gallons is made use of by other nations.

These vessels are fitted with tryworks or fire-places above which is a battery containing two, and sometimes three iron pots, sufficiently capacious to contain from one hundred and fifty to two hundred gallons each; the fire-place is built of bricks, so laid below as to form channels for water to preserve the floor or main deck from injury. The water is kept confined by a square, formed with two inch plank, around the sides, negligence in leaving this pen (as it is termed) dry, has caused many accidents; otherwise a cargo of oil is not of a very flammable nature. These fireworks are taken down when the cargo is completed, and the pots, if uninjured, are stowed away; in these pots is boiled or fried out, the blubber, each piece being minced small to extract the oil easier; the fires are ignited with wood or charcoal, and afterwards renewed with pieces of blubber, from which the oil has been extracted, called scraps, similar to fires in sugar houses, being fed with sugar canes, from which the charine matter has been previously extracted by boiling.

After the blubber has sufficiently been boiled, the oil is baled out and placed in copper coolers or tanks to settle, and shortly after is put into barrels and casks, containing from thirty to two hundred and eighty gallons. When the heat has subsided, and the staves if new, are sufficiently shrunk, so as to insure from their leaking, the bung is put in the casks which are carefully lodged in the hold, the bung being upwards, and the body of the casks kept apart from touching each other, bedded and quoined with small blocks of wood; this is called

STOWING THE CARGO.

bilge free. After the ship has had a quantity of oil within her hold some length of time, the casks are taken again upon deck, termed broke out. The cooper, a very necessary officer on board a whale ship, carefully examines each cask, after which they are again replaced in the hold with similar care and attention. Often during voyage, while in warm climates, a quantity of salt water is thrown in the hold over the casks containing oil, which prevents them in some degree from shrinking, and consequently leaking; incident to contrary climates, wear and tear from storms and calms. I made a passage in a whale ship, when at one period we were stationed in a latitude where the thermometer stood at twenty degrees above zero, and within fifteen days it remained constant at 86 deg.. To a new ship, the oil saturating the timber is of essential service, as a preservative against rot. A cargo of oil is very buoyant.

Ships employed in this service are fitted according to their size; a vessel of three hundred and fifty tons will make use of four boats, and carry two spare ones in case of accidents.

These boats, known from their peculiar form as whale boats, are admirably adapted for the purpose, having a large breadth of beam, and similarly tapering at both extremities, so that they are propelled to and fro without turning round, for the purpose. They are suspended from pieces of timber called davits, which are fitted to project over the ship's sides. The spare boats are carried on staunchions above the quarter deck. They are formed of very light materials, and from having little hold in the water outstrip

WHALING BOATS.

any other description of vessel of the kind. The American models are preferred, possessing greater beam and less depth, giving less resistance to the water; the general length is about twenty-two feet.

A whale ship carrying four boats will be manned by a complement of thirty men, including a master, three mates, four boat steerers, or harpooners, a carpenter and cooper. Each boat is owned by a particular officer and crew to prevent confusion, and is furnished with a tub of whale line or rope, containing in the coil one thousand and eighty feet, and is placed between the two afterthwarts or seats of the boat, the headsman being placed at the steer oar, which is used in place of a rudder to a whale boat, giving the steersman unlimited command over it in a heavy sea, where a rudder would be useless. This place he only quits when the harpooner throws a lance at the fish; then they hastily change places, the headsman finishing what the harpooner commenced, contriving to throw his lances at the shoulder blade, close within the fin of the whale; lances and irons in quick succession pierce the agonised creature, until it floats on the water dead, when the body turns round, the belly upwards. The fish is then made fast with a rope to a block of wood at the stern of the boat, called a loggerhead, and towed with its head to the ship, which sails towards the prize, to ease the men's exertions and save time. On arriving alongside the vessel, the fish is made fast by what is called a fluke chain to the tail, a hole is cut over the neck of the fish and a hook placed in it to raise the blubber, or addipous matter of which it is outwardly composed, which is cut in strips on either

ART OF WHALING.

side the whole length of the body, and five or six feet in breadth, it is then raised as high as the main mast head, and another tackle is applied to a fresh piece of blubber, technically called blanket pieces, during which the preceding piece is lowered into an inclosed place below the deck, called the blubber room. Others of the crew are employed severing the head from the body as it rolls in the water and is separately made fast with the head rope. After the blubber is stripped from the body, hooks are placed in the head and the immense mass, in fair weather, is raised upon deck, the junk cut off, the case or occipital part opened and the spermaceti, which is entirely pure is then baled out. This head matter bears the highest price in the market.

1 Nib. – 2 Case. – 3 Upper Jaw. – 4 Lower ditto. – 5 The Jowl. – 6 Flipper, or fin. – 7 Anus. – 8 Flukes, or tail. – 9 Small of the back. – 10 Hump on ditto. – 11 Bunch on the Neck. – 12 Spiracle, or breathing hole.

During fine weather persons are stationed at the main and top mast head, and regularly relieved to keep a diligent look out for whales. On perceiving the fish respire, the discovery is instantly communicated by the expressions of "there she spouts," "there she blows," and "there she breaches," which is announced when the animal takes a sudden leap out of the water.

ITS DANGERS.

"Where away?" is enquired from the deck; an answer is returned affirmative as to the direction. The boats are instantly lowered on the water, and within ten minutes from the first intimation, the fishermen are on their way towards the direction pointed out, carefully steering the boat with the bow towards the head of the fish, that it may not attract its vision. The whale as soon as struck by the harpoon generally dives with great velocity underwater, running away with coils of line that the boats, congregated together in the pursuit, are supplied with; some fish have run out in this manner near six thousand feet of line, that is drawn from the boat's bow with such celerity, that the friction would cause fire to ensue, were not water thrown occasionally over the place to prevent it.

After the whale is pierced, they frequently remain from twenty to sixty minutes previous to rising again on the surface of the ocean, termed breaking water, when immediately the boats make towards it in active chase, the pursuers encouraging each other by suiting the action to the word: such as, "at her, my lads, she'll feather our nests." The Americans are not less amusing in their expressions: "I guess she's our'n, slick as a whistle;" "It's a master big crittur;" "I calkalate there's a new rig for Prudence, she's dreadful handsome," and similar "tarnal" expressions, which the kind-hearted sons of Cape Cod and the Piscataqua encourage their lusty and trusty followers.

Whales have been killed at the first blow, when successfully struck under the fin, termed the life. Instances can also be adduced of the fish having been pierced with a dozen lances in various parts of the

THE DYING LEVIATHAN.

body, outliving the night, but from exhaustion making but little progress from the ship, but yet able to renew the contest the ensuing day.

The sperm whale ejects but little blood from its spiracle when dying, compared with the right whale species in that state; and when the thin outer cuticle breaks in any part, either by the thrust of a lance or any other cause, its track is marked by an oleaginous line or wake on the surface of the water. A singular effect is often seen on a tempestuous sea, when the bilge water and loose oil is pumped out from a leaky whale ship, where the matter flows, the raging wave ceases its fury in some degree.

A whale ship springing a leak in a calm sea would not founder, from the buoyancy of the cargo; it would sink in the ocean as far as the upper deck which would be even with the water, termed waterlogged, (similar to a cargo of timber); it would only sink when the water burst the deck open and dispersed the freight.

Whaling is a traffic attended with continual danger; tales, of which this animal is the hero, are innumerable; significantly termed "fish stories." Many of these hardy, truculent men, who follow this enterprising profession, declare the whale to be as harmless an animal as is to be found under "God's heaven," others from experience also, tell a woful story to the contrary.

The following circumstance that happened some few years since off the coast of Peru in South America, will not furnish proof to either being the fact. Two vessels employed in the trade, were lying to, near each other; suddenly, from alongside, a large sperm whale breached over one of the vessels, instantly severed her

LOSS OF THE "ESSEX."

in pieces and she immediately sunk, the few seamen on board, saved themselves by swimming to the consort in company, the remainder of the crew were out in their boats, and not an article was saved. A circumstance more afflicting in its results occurred to the American whale ship, "Essex," of Nantucket, George Pollard master, the vessel was on whaling ground off Japan, lying to, under easy sail. Three boats had been lowered, but one of them had been stove, or damaged by a fish, and had been returned to the ship to undergo repair. About this time a large whale supposed to be ninety feet long, was perceived at some distance rushing furiously in the direction of the ship, and shortly after its immense head struck with powerful force against the stern post, every timber of the vessel appeared to feel the concussion, and impelled her forward at the rate of six knots or miles an hour, the fish instantly dived, and was lost sight of for an hour, when a whale supposed to be the same from its colour, enormous bulk, and the direction from whence it came, was seen driving towards the vessel; escape was impossible, from the rapid motions of the animal, who drove its head with astounding force against the ship's side, dashing in the planking, and timbers; it instantly filled, and became waterlogged; the boats which had returned were lowered, and the people twenty-one in number left the wreck, obtaining only a few trifling stores. The sufferings these unfortunate men underwent, are too numerous to detail, planks starting from the boats, this description of vessel being built for the boards to overlap each other, a half inch only in thickness; their little stock of provisions was

DREADFUL SHIPWRECK.

soon exhausted, being saturated with salt water. They made land, called Ducie's island, small, barren, and uninhabited; in one of the caves of which, they discovered the skeletons of eight human bodies, who had perished from wreck and starvation. They left this spot from which nothing could be obtained, and again committed themselves in their frail barks to the mercy of the waves. One of the boats was never heard of, the remaining two soon parted company. One containing three men was picked up sixty days after the wreck, by a passing whale ship, the other boat in which was the master, fell in with another whaler ninety days after the loss of the "Essex," one boy beside himself were the sole survivors, the bodies of the other hapless men, had furnished food for their companions. The day they were relieved, lots had been cast between the two lone beings, as to whose fate should be sealed, to lengthen the loathsome existence of a comrade, the fate of the boy had been fixed to die, and an hour later he would have lost his existence. This disaster occurred in latitude 47 deg. S. longitude 120 deg. W. after the crew had procured seven hundred and fifty barrels of sperm oil.

This is not the only instance detailing a dogged propensity in the animal, to follow up apparently a course of retributive mischief.

An instance of a similar nature was related to me by Commodore ap Jones, whose early nautical experience was procured in years of honourable hardship and toil, in whaling voyages in the South Seas. He was also, when a boy, in a boat that was crushed in pieces by a sperm whale, the concussion threw him

DANGERS INCIDENT TO WHALEMEN.

into the mouth of the whale, who doubtless disliking a young Welshman grafted on a "down Easter," squirted the embryo Commodore forth, together with the pieces of the wreck. Innumerable instances occur of boats being hurled in the air, with a blow of the tail, or crushed in two by the jaws of the tremendous fish. Many of the adventurers have been killed by accidentally falling in contact with either the head or flukes of the leviathan: numerous boats' crews have been lost with their commander or officers, by pursuing the fish too far to windward of the ship, forgetting due caution in the ardour of pursuit; and have been cut off from regaining the ship, from sudden fogs arising, or change of winds or gales, leaving the crew to the most horrible of lingering deaths, starvation. Lightning and the convulsion of the elements, have sunk many whaling ships in the South Eastern Seas, where the gales during the prevalence of the monsoons are most terrific.

A more insidious enemy to the whale has been found in the sword or horn fish; several instances have occurred on ships returning to port, after a lapse of three and four years, in which the horn of this fish has been found broken off after piercing entirely through the ship's bows or sides, the copper or hardness of the timber proving no obstacle; several recent instances happened in which the horn had pierced through the ship's bow into an oil butt, and from being jammed in tight, it had not leaked, if the horn had worked out by the straining of the ship, the perforation being some feet below water, the leak could not have been stopped, and the vessel must have sunk.

The "Deveron," whaler, James Curry master, of

EXTRAORDINARY VOYAGES

Hobart Town, was lost while at anchor near Morton bay, coast of N.S.Wales, in fine weather, nearly a full ship. The loss of this vessel was occasioned by a butt, or piece of wood that joins two planks together in a ship's side, starting, there was not time given to save scarce an article, the vessel sunk within a few minutes. Whalers are supplied with blue lights in the event of the chase being continued after sunset, that the position of the vessel may be ascertained. Melancholy accidents are so common in the pursuits of whaling, that volumes could be filled enumerating the losses of life and limb: yet many South seamen take much delight in following this nautical chase; which is also attended with this advantage, that the taking a single brush in the form of a hundred barrelled whale will help to score off many an annoyance. The year 1837 has been particularly marked by the loss of many of these ships of adventure in the South Seas.

NOTE 9.

That extraordinary voyages do frequently occur, is evident to every person who has been observant on the subject, especially among the inhabitants of the Polynesian and Oceanic Islands.

A very few years since, a Chinese junk was cast ashore, on the island of Oahu (Woahoo) one of the Sandwich Islands; and some four years back, a large Japanese junk was fell in with by an American whaleman. The Indian ship was drifting about the Japan Seas, almost a wreck. Every assistance was rendered

OF THE SOUTH SEA ISLANDERS.

by the American master, who took the people out of the vessel, together with the cargo, and conveyed them to Japan. On making Niphon, the largest of the islands, he gave the people a whale boat, who testified by signs, the gratitude they felt at the kind treatment they had received. The whaleman would gladly have entered the port (Nangasaki), but the laws against the admittance of foreigners are written in blood, dictated with the sanguinary pen of a Draco. In both these instances storms had severed these people from their native coasts.

In 1836, my friend Captain Richard Macy of Wiscasset in Maine, in the United States, fell in with three of the Kingsmill group, at the Island of Rotuma; and the canoe with which they had effected their trip. The passage these people must have made drifting about, amounted to many thousand miles. Their story was simple, they had been fishing outside the reefs, when a sudden gale burst with such fury, that drifted them at a rapid rate from the land; the canoe was part of an old tree of only twelve feet in length. They stated that they saw the sun descend many times (ka torengi te ra), and when in a famished and emaciated state, they saw land at a distance, they with difficulty made towards it, but it was entirely a barren rock. They staid some few days subsisting on leaves, nothing as food for man being on the rocks; and again threw themselves on the mercy of the waves; and fate, assisted with a few heavy gales of wind, threw them on the Island of Rotumah; there they were kindly received, and stated their determination to die on that lovely island.

Captain Macy kindly offered them a passage to

DIPLOMATIC ESSAY

the Kingsmill group; but they refused to submit themselves to the dangers of the sea. They had also formed new connections. Similar accidents have been common among the inhabitants of the South Sea Islands, and serve to explain how the various parts of the earth have been peopled by persons, similarly detached from their native country. In Lettres Edifiantes et Curieuses, tome 15, we find a relation of two canoes being tossed about for seventy days, the passengers suffering dreadful hardships, having performed A voyage of nine hundred miles from an island called Amorsot, to the isle of Samal, one of the Phillipines. A narrative of a similar nature is found in "Voyages aux terres Australes," and in the English translation of 'Thevenot's divers curious Voyages.'

NOTE 10.

THE BRITISH RESIDENT AT NEW ZEALAND, TO HIS BRITANNIC
MAJESTY'S SUBJECTS, WHO ARE RESIDING OR TRADING
IN NEW ZEALAND.

The British Resident announces to his Countrymen that he has received from a person who styles himself "Charles, Baron de Thierry, Sovereign Chief of New Zealand, and King of Nuhuheva," one of the Marquesas Islands, a formal declaration of his intention to establish in his own Person an Independent Sovereignty in this Country, which intention he states he has declared to their Majesties the Kings of Great Britain, and France, and to the President of the United States; and that he is now waiting at Otaheite the arrival of an armed Ship from Panama, to enable him to proceed to the Bay of Islands with strength to maintain his assumed Sovereignty.

His intention is founded upon an alleged invitation given to him in England by Shungie and other Chiefs, none of whom as Indi-

OF THE BRITISH RESIDENT.

viduals had any right tO the Sovereignty of the Country, consequently, possessed no authority to convey a right of Sovereignty to another. – Also, upon an alleged Purchase made for him in 1822, by Mr. Kendall, of Three Districts on the Hokianga River, from Three Chiefs who had only a partial property in these Districts, parts of which are now Settled by British Subjects, by virtue of Purchase from the rightful Proprietors.

The British Resident has also Seen an elaborate exposition of his Views which this Person has addressed to the Missionaries of the Church Missionary Society, in which he makes the most ample Promises to all persons, whether White or Natives, who will accept his Invitation to live under his Government; and in which he offers a stipulated Salary to each Individual Missionary in order to induce them to act as his Magistrates. It is also supposed, that he may have made similar Communications to other Persons or Classes of His Majesty's Subjects, who are hereby invited to make such Communications, or any Information on this Subject they may possess, known to the British Resident, or to the Additional British Resident at Hokianga.

The British Resident has too much Confidence in the Loyalty and Good Sense of his Countrymen, to think it necessary to Caution them against turning a favourable ear to such Insidious Promises. He firmly believes that the Paternal Protection of the British Government, which has never failed any of His Majesty's Subjects however remote, will not be withheld from them, should it be necessary to prevent their Lives, Liberties, or Property from being subjected to the Caprice of any Adventurer, who may choose to make this Country, in which British Subjects have now by the most lawful means acquired so large a Stake, the Theatre of his Ambitious Projects: nor, in the British Residents' opinion, will His Majesty, after having acknowledged the Sovereignty of the Chiefs of New Zealand in their collective capacity, by the Recognition of their Flag, permit his Humble and Confiding Allies to be deprived of their Independence upon such Pretensions.

But, although the British Resident is of opinion that such an Attempt as is now announced must ultimately fail, ha, nevertheless, conceives, that if such a Person were once allowed to obtain

BARON DE THIERRY.

a footing in the Country, he might acquire such an Influence over the simple-minded Native as would produce effects which could not be too much deprecated or too anxiously provided against; and he has therefore considered it his Duty to Request the British Settlers of all Classes, to use all the Influence they possess with the Natives of every Rank, in order to Counteract the Efforts of any Emissaries which may have arrived or may arrive amongst them. – And to inspire both Chiefs and People with a Spirit of the most Determined Resistance to the Landing of a Person on their Shores, who comes with the Avowed Intention of Usurping a Sovereignty over them.

The British Resident will take immediate Steps for Calling together the Native Chiefs, in order to Inform them of this proposed Attempt upon their Independence, and to advise them of what is Due to Themselves and to their Country, and of the Protection which British Subjects are entitled to at their hands. And he has no doubt that such a Manifestation will be exhibited of the Characteristic Spirit, Courage, and Independence of the New-Zealanders as will stop at the outset such an Attempt upon their Liberties by demonstrating its utter hopelessness.

JAMES BUSBY.

BRITISH RESIDENT.

British Residency, at New Zealand,
Bay of Islands, October 10th, 1835.

Had the adventurous "King of Nuhuheva" arrived, Mr. Busby would have soon found that a few blankets and firearms well distributed, would soon have visibly displayed the characteristic spirit of the New Zealanders in its true light, and scarce a respectable European would have stood up in defence of that gentleman. They would gladly have embraced any social form of government, however oppressive

PETITION TO WILLIAM THE FOURTH.

for the protection of their property, rather than the law of force, which has hitherto agitated the country. The British government had stated (it was said some years back), that the land was not to be colonised, and the Europeans were bound for the protection of their families, to seek the fostering aid of some government; but these unpleasant feelings would never have arisen in the breasts of Englishmen, had Mr. Busby shown a conciliatory disposition, to his countrymen.

NOTE 11.

Petition to his late Majesty from British settlers in New Zealand.

To the King's Most Excellent Majesty.
Sire,
May it please your Majesty to allow your faithful, obedient, and loyal subjects, at present residing in New Zealand, to approach the Throne, and crave your condescending attention to their petition, which is called forth by their peculiar situation.

The present crisis of the threatened usurpation of power over New Zealand by Baron Charles de Thierry, the particulars of which have been forwarded to your Majesty's Government by Charles Busby, Esquire, the British Resident, strongly urges us to make known our fears and apprehensions for ourselves and families, and the people amongst whom we dwell.

PETITION OF BRITISH SETTLERS

Your humble petitioners would advert to the serious evils and perplexing grievances which surround and await them, arising, for the most part, if not entirely, from some of your Majesty's subjects, who fearlessly commit all kinds of depredations upon other of your Majesty's subjects who are peaceably disposed. British property in vessels, as well as on shore, is exposed without any redress to every imaginable risk and plunder, which may be traced to the want of a power in the land to check and control evils, and preserve order amongst your Majesty's subjects.

Your petitioners are aware that it is not the desire of your Majesty to extend the colonies of Great Britain; but they would call your Majesty's attention to the circumstance of several of your Majesty's subjects having resided in New Zealand for more than twenty years past, since which their numbers have accumulated to more than five hundred, north of the river Thames alone, many of whom are heads of families. The frequent arrival of persons from England and the adjacent colonies is a fruitful source of further augmentation. Your petitioners would, therefore, humbly call your majesty's attention to the fact, that there is at present a considerable body of your Majesty's subjects established in this island, and that owing to the salubrity of the climate, there is every reason to anticipate a rapidly rising colony of British subjects. Should this colony continue to advance, no doubt means would be devised whereby many of its internal expenses would be met, as in other new countries. There are numbers of landholders, and the Kouri Forests have

TO WILLIAM THE FOURTH.

become, for the most part, the private property of your Majesty's subjects.

Your humble petitioners would also entreat your Majesty's attention to the important circumstance that the Bay of Islands has long been the resort of ships employed in the South Sea fishery and the merchant's service, and is in itself a most noble anchorage for all classes of vessels, and is further highly important in affording supplies and refreshment to shipping. There are also several other harbours and anchorages of material importance to the shipping interest, in situations where British subjects have possessions and property to a large amount. The number of arrivals of vessels in the Bay of Islands, during the last three years, has been considerably on the increase. At one period thirty-six were at anchor, and in the course of the six months ending June, 1836, no less than one hundred and one vessels visited the Bay.

Your petitioners would further state, that since the increase of the European population, several evils have been growing upon them. The crews of vessels have frequently been decoyed on shore, to the great detriment of trade, and numberless robberies have been committed on shipboard and on shore by a lawless band of Europeans, who have not even scrupled to use fire-arms to support them in their depredations. Your humble petitioners seriously lament that when complaints have been made to the British Resident of these acts of outrage, he has expressed his deep regret that he has not yet been furnished with authority and power to act, not even the authority of a civil magistrate to administer an affidavit.

PETITION OF BRITISH SUBJECTS

Your humble petitioners express, with much concern, their conviction that unless your Majesty's fostering care be extended towards them, they can only anticipate that both your Majesty's subjects and also the aborigines of this land will be liable in an increased degree to murders, robberies, and every kind of evil.

Your petitioners would observe that it has been considered that the confederate tribes of New Zealand were competent to enact laws for the proper government of this land, whereby protection would be afforded in all cases of necessity; but experience evidently shows that, in the infant state of the country, this cannot be accomplished or expected. It is acknowledged by the chiefs themselves to be impracticable. Your petitioners, therefore, feel persuaded that considerable time must elapse before the chiefs of this land can be capable of exercising the duties of an independent government.

Your humble petitioners would, therefore, pray that your Majesty may graciously regard the peculiarity of their situation, and afford that relief which may appear most expedient to your Majesty.

Relying upon your Majesty's wisdom and clemency, we shall ever pray Almighty God to behold with favour and preserve our gracious Sovereign, and beg humbly to subscribe ourselves, &c., &c.

Richard Holtom

James Hawkins

John Mac Diarmid

Thomas Butler, son to the Rev.
Mr. Butler, late Church Miss-
ionary

Hugh Mc Lever

Benjamin Turner, his + mark

James R. Clendon

Gilbert Mair

J. W. Bayman

Robert Davies

TO WILLIAM THE FOURTH

H. Shirley

Richard Davies, Church Mission
ary Catechist

J. Chapman, Church Missionary
Catechist

James Kemp, ditto

J. Morgan, ditto

Henry William, son of Chairman
of Church Missionary Com-
mittee

W. T. Fairburn, ditto

Sam. M. Knight, ditto

The Rev. Alfred N. Brown,
Church Missionary

William Richard Wade, Church
Missionary Catechist

J. A. Wilson, Church ditto Cate-
chist

Charles Baker, ditto

John Fairburn, son of Church
Missionary Catechist

James Preece, ditto

Edward Clementson

Wm. Powditch

James Farrow

Henry P. Dunman

R. Parry

Dominick Ferari

J. A. Macleod

Wm. Curtis

Samuel Jones

Henry Beasley, his + mark

P. Tapsell

George Hawkes

Thos. D. Grenville

John James, his + mark

W. Mullins, his + mark

James Buller

Thomas Phillips, his + mark

John Wright

Thomas Burgess, his + mark

Joseph W. Wright

The Rev. Nathaniel Turner,
Wesleyan Missionary

Robert Hunt

James Reeve

The Rev. William Woon, ditto

Thomas Kelly

The Rev. James Wallis, ditto

Dennis B. Cochrane

The Rev. John Whiteley ditto

R. W. Nickell

R. H. Smith

G. F. Russell

E. Meurant

H. Chapman

William Alexander

Henry Harrison, his + mark

David Robertson

F. R. Lomerston

Thomas Spicer

James Honey

W. T. Green

George Paton

The Rev. Henry Williams, Chair-
man of Church Missionary
Committee

Andrew Reading

Thomas Jones

Charles Darey

John Wright

John Baker, his + mark

A. L. W. Lewinton

J. W. Cleland

William Saunders

Richard Mariner

George Gage, his + mark

M. 0. Brien

John Fell

Francis Bowyer

John Henry Lewis

George Haggey

H. M. Pilley, Church Missionary
Catechist

Robert Augur

John Mawman

John Flatt, ditto

William Waters, his + mark

Samuel Williams, son of Rev. H.
Williams, Chairman of Church
Missionary Committee

Robert Campbell, his + mark

Alexander Greig

W. Cook

The Rev. William Williams, bro-
ther of Chairman of Church
Missionary Committee

John Dinney, his + mark

William Gardiner

William Greene

SIGNATURES TO PETITION

H. Boyle

Samuel Eggart

George Hull

J. R. Oakes

William Dodson

Mathew Marriner

W. F. Brown

John Grant

John Coune

Henry Button

John Fogarty

W. Smith

William Davies, son of Church
Missionary Catechist

B. Me Gurdy

Robert Day

John Bedgood

John Shearer

James Davies, son of Church
Missionary Catechist

George Gardner

Thomas Wing

G. Clarke, ditto, and Secretary
of the Church Missionary Com-
mittee.

F?ower Russell

James Mc Namara

John Fagan

James Kemp, jun., son of Church
Missionary Catechist

Thomas Graham

W. Smith

James Stack, Church Missionary
Catechist

Henry Hadder

James Shepherd, Church Mis-
sionary Catechist

John Skelton

John Bennir

John Edmonds, Church Mis-
sionary Catechist

Henry Davies

Thomas Cooper

Benjamin Nisbit

Robert Lawson

James N. Shepherd, son of
Church Missionary Catechist

W. H. Curtis

Charles Smith, his + mark

Peleg Wood

A. J. Ross, M. D.

George Clarke, jun son of Church
Missionary Catechist

B. Ashwell, Church Missionary
Catechist

Thomas Byan, his + mark

J. S. Polack

Henry Sonsheil

Philip H. King, son of Church
Missionary Catechist

John Fox, his + mark

Alexander Stephen

John Fowler

Charles Bawn

George Norman

Philip P. Perry

William Young

George Greenway

William Pepplewell

James Greenway, jun.

W. Oakes

John Egerly

Thomas J. Bennington

Roger K. Bullen

Charles Davis

Charles John Cook

S. M. D. Monro

Jack Monk

H. Monro

James Lowden

W. Monro

Peter Toohey

Hugh Minshall, his + mark

Thomas Turner, son of the Rev.
N. Turner, Wesleyan Mission-
ary

Thomas Hardman

Michall Harvey

William Smith, his + mark

James Johnson

Benjamin Baker, his + mark

William Walker

Peter Lynch

Peter Greenhill

Edward Sullivan

George Coker

Thomas Mc Donnell, Lieut. R. N.

Henry Benderson

Thomas Gales

William Potter

M. FIERFAIT

W. Taylor

Jno. J. Montefiore

Nelson Gravatt

Thomas Florance

James Howland, his + mark

Thomas Wheatland, his + mark

James G. Brane

John King, Church Missionary
Catechist

Richard Fairburn, son of Church
Missionary Catechist

William Spence King, son of
Church Missionary Catechist

Thomas Johnson

John Best

NOTE 12.

M. Fierfait, (there may be an error in the orthography,) was a stipendiary of the British Government for his remarkable optical powers of discovering vessels when distant some hundreds of miles from Port Louis, in the ISLAND OF MAURITIUS.

He was in the habit of laying his "report" before the officer commanding the Civil Engineer's Department. There were two persons equally gifted at Port Louis, who practised their extraordinary powers of vision. In 1810, the British fleet congregated from the Cape of Good Hope and Bengal to subdue the Mauritius, were becalmed for some days off Rodrigues, an Island in south latitude 19 deg. 41', longitude 63 deg. 20' west. M. Fierfait perceived the fleet and forthwith acquainted General Decaen, (who so politely detained the celebrated navigator, Captain Flinders,) that the English fleet was in sight – "les Anglais sont arrives," said the astrographer; "En prison! avec le polisson, sacre cochon! was the testy reply of the redoubtable gouverneur, and in prison he was incarcerated. The English liberated the unfortunate planetist within the same week. My lamented friend, the late Charles Telfair, Esquire, who was employed in the. highest confi-

POWERFUL VISION.

dential post under the new government, did every thing necessary for Fierfait's benefit, as was the wont of that gentleman towards any person who possessed a germ of science or ability. Fierfait was excessively nonplussed at one period during one of his heavenly reviews – it would have puzzled a conjuror: – he stated that he perceived two brigs lashed together making for Port Louis; as this was a novel mode of navigation, especially within the hurricane season, it caused much interest, which was allayed in three days after by a vessel named the "Transit," entering the harbour with four masts, the only instance of a ship, so masted, anchoring in that port. I requested M. Fierfait to permit me to become his pupil, if he could impart the art to another; he replied he was willing to do so as he was enabled to teach any person who had a vision that could distinguish objects at a great distance; unfortunately, my powers of sight were too opaque to profit by the opportunity. The extraordinary scenographic appearance of inverted ships in the heavens, some days previous to their actual arrival, has been seen by other gentlemen in the Mauritius, and the same was more than once asserted to me by the natives of Madagascar and New Zealand, whose abilities in viewing distant objects is superior to that of Europeans, whose visionary powers are subjected to greater powers.

NOTE 13.

The travels of the celebrated Bruce met with many animadversions from the critics of the day, who analysed his work with no sparing hand. Since his time we

USAGES IN MADAGASCAR.

have the corroborative testimony of several travellers of undoubted merit and honourable distinction verifying his assertions.

Travelling in the plains of MADAGASCAR, in 1827, in company with some French gentlemen, I perceived at some distance from us a herd of cattle that were brousing on the luxurious herbage or drinking in the placid Pangolin, which meandered through the plain. Several of the cattle had a remarkable appearance which induced me to approach nearer to them, when to my astonishment I perceived the skin and a large portion of the flesh had been cut off from the hips of several of the animals. I turned to my companions and demanded the cause, when it appeared I excited their surprise as much as the cattle had raised mine, in (as they said) my not being aware it was a common usage in the country for the people when affected by hunger to cut off the fleshy portion of the haunch of an animal, previously moulding a paste of clay and water ready to plaster the wound, and that the lubricious remedy did not fall off until a new skin covered the lacerated parts.

NOTE 14.

Since writing the above, dispatches have been received from Sir Richard Bourke, late governor and commander-in-chief of the colony of New South Wales and its dependencies, in which His Excellency it appears has manifested the power possessed by the head of that colonial jurisdiction, a situation the above gentleman has filled

EXECUTION OF DOYLE.

with honourable credit to himself, and with unusual satisfaction to the colonists.

JURISDICTION OF SUPREME COURT OF NEW SOOTH WALES.

"On Friday morning last, Edward Doyle underwent the extreme sentence of the law, at the usual place of execution here, for outrages perpetrated at New Zealand. It seems hitherto to have been the belief of European ruffians who prowl amongst the islands of the Pacific, that they are beyond the pale of British law; the fate of Doyle must now convince them to the contrary. The Government has most appropriately issued the following proclamation, and it is to be hoped that every vessel bound for New Zealand or any other of the South Sea Islands will take copies for dispersion in the ports of their destination:

Colonial Secretary's Office
Sydney, New South Wales,
8th December, 1837.

Representations having been made from time to time, by James Busby Esq. British Resident in New Zealand, of offences perpetrated in that island, by subjects of Great Britain, under the belief that the difficulty of conviction would ensure impunity, His Excellency the Acting Governor and the Executive Council of New South Wales deem it right to notify, for general information, that Sentence of Death has been passed by the Supreme Court of this Colony upon Edward Doyle, found guilty of stealing in a Dwelling House, at the Bay of Islands, on the 18th of June last, and putting John Wright in bodily fear; and that Doyle has been executed accordingly, this day.

His Excellency trusts that this example will afford a salutary warning to all persons who may be disposed to commit similar Acts, and by convincing them that, however remote, they are not beyond the reach of Justice, will render such Outrages less frequent in future.

EXECUTION OF DOYLE.

The British Resident will be pleased to take the necessary steps for making this Notification generally known both to Europeans and to the Native Inhabitants.

By His Excellency's Command,

E. DEAS THOMSON.

THE END.

LONDON: SCHULZE. AND CO., 13, POLAND STREET.

ERRATA

Page

47,

line

6,

for

ingenuously read ingeniously

–

48,

– .

2,

– -

friends read fiends

–

65,

–

10,

–

armament read ornament

–

81,

–

27,

–

Tuiui read Tuitui

–

150,

–

4,

–

others farther. The south society read others farther south.

The society.

– –

166,

– –

8,

– –

bewildering read bewitching

–

205,

–

12,

– -

purchased by the merchants read pursued by the merchants

–

236,

–

13,

– -

of wood of the read of wood and of the

–

240,.

–

6,

– -

ra kio read ra oki

–

256,

–

13,

– -

distant noises read inward noises

–

266,

–

28,

– -

poorka kikina read puorka kikino

–

-'62,

–

28,

–

kai kahuroa read kai kohuda

2 From the Journal et Miroir de la Navigation Australe du Jac le Maire.

3 Burney's Chronological History of Voyages to the South Pacific.

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