Polynesia [Selected chapters relating to NZ]

George French Angas

First published by Society for Promoting Christian Knowledge in 1866

Digitised and made available online by the University of Auckland Libraries and Learning Services.

Epub © 2013 Early New Zealand Books Collection

ISBN 978-1-927288-68-9

[MAP]

POLYNESIA, OR THE ISLANDS OF THE PACIFIC OCEAN [MAP]
London. published by the Socy. for promoting Christian Knowledge
Stanford's Geographical Establishment, London.

[TITLE PAGES]

POLYNESIA:

A POPULAR DESCRIPTION OF THE PHYSICAL FEATURES,
INHABITANTS, NATURAL HISTORY,
AND PRODUCTIONS OF

THE ISLANDS OF THE PACIFIC.

WITH

AN ACCOUNT OF THEIR DISCOVERY, AND OF THE PROGRESS OF CIVILIZATION AND CHRISTIANITY AMONGST THEM.

BY GEORGE FRENCH ANGAS , F.L.S.,
AUTHOR OF "AUSTRALIA," &c.

PUBLISHED UNDER THE DIRECTION OF
THE COMMITTEE OF GENERAL LITERATURE AND EDUCATION,
APPOINTED BY THE SOCIETY FOR PROMOTING
CHRISTIAN KNOWLEDGE.

LONDON:
SOCIETY FOR PROMOTING CHRISTIAN KNOWLEDGE;
SOLD AT THE DEPOSITORIES:
77, GREAT QUEEN STREET, LINCOLN'S INN FIELDS;
4, ROYAL EXCHANGE; 48, PICCADILLY;
AND BY ALL BOOKSELLERS.

LONDON: PRINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS. STAMFORD STREET AND CHARING CROSS.

[CONTENTS]

CONTENTS.

INTRODUCTION......... v

I. PHYSICAL AND GEOLOGICAL FEATURES OF POLYNESIA: VOLCANIC, CRYSTALLINE, AND CORAL ISLANDS; ATOLLS, BARRIER REEFS, &c.............1

II. ACTIVE VOLCANOES, BOILING SPRINGS, AND OTHER NATURAL PHENOMENA......10

III. VEGETABLE PRODUCTIONS: TREES, FRUITS, AND FLOWERS.........27

IV. NATURAL HISTORY; MAMMALS, BIRDS, REPTILES, FISHES, INSECTS, MOLLUSKS, &c........53

V. NEW ZEALAND; THE NORTH ISLAND ... 80

VI. NEW ZEALAND; THE MIDDLE ISLAND . . 117

VII. THE NEW ZEALANDERS ...... 142

VIII. PAPUA, OR NEW GUINEA, AND THE LOUISIADE ARCHIPELAGO.........168

IX. THE SANDWICH ISLANDS......187

X. THE ARCHIPELAGO OF VITI, OR FIJI . . . 218

XI. THE TONGA, OR FRIENDLY ISLANDS; NIUE, OR SAVAGE ISLAND.......288

XII. THE NAVIGATOR'S, OR SAMOA ISLANDS . . 265

XIII. THE SOCIETY ISLANDS; AND THE PAUMOTU OR LOW ARCHIPELAGO.....280

XIV. THE HERVEY, OR COOK'S ISLANDS, AND THE AUSTRAL ISLANDS........303

XV. THE MARQUESAS, OR MENDANA GROUP . . 323

XVI. NEW CALEDONIA, THE ISLE OF PINES, AND THE LOYALTY ISLANDS......333

XVII. THE NEW HEBRIDES, AND THE QUEEN CHARLOTTE ISLANDS........348

XVIII. THE SOLOMON ISLANDS, NEW BRITAIN, NEW IRELAND, NEW HANOVER, AND THE ADMIRALTY ISLANDS........361

XIX. THE CAROLINE ARCHIPELAGO, THE PELEW ISLANDS, THE MARSHALL, AND GILBERT ISLANDS..........376

XX. THE KINGSMILL GROUP, AND OTHER SCATTERED ISLANDS NEAR THE EQUATOR......890

XXI. THE LADRONES, OR MARIAN ISLANDS; THE BONIN ISLANDS, AND THE VOLCANO ISLANDS.....404

XXII. EASTER ISLAND; PITCAIRN ISLAND; AND NORFOLK ISLAND........413

XXIII. HISTORY AND PROGRESS OF MISSIONARY LABOURS IN POLYNESIA, IN CONNECTION WITH THE CHURCH OF ENGLAND; AND THE PRESENT STATE OF THE CHURCH IN THE NEW ZEALAND COLONIES........427

[CONTENTS]

INTRODUCTION.

THAT vast expanse of water known as the Pacific Ocean, the Mar del Zur, or the South Sea, which stretches between the east coast of Asia and the west coast of America, is the largest ocean on the globe, covering an area of some 70,000,000 square miles, and extending 10,000 miles from east to west at its widest breadth on the equator. Its extreme southern limit is the Antarctic Circle, whence it extends, northwards, through 130 deg. of latitude, until it narrows off towards Behring's Straits, which connect it with the Arctic Seas beyond.

This wide ocean received the title of the "Pacific" from the moderate and delightful weather experienced by the first Spanish navigators who sailed on its bosom along the coast of Peru and within the tropics, where, at most times, it is found to be comparatively smooth; but without the tropics, in the high latitudes towards either pole, the fury of the winter storms and the roughness of the sea are quite equal to those of other oceans with less attractive names.

The equator separates this great tract of water

into the two grand divisions of the North and South Pacific Oceans; both of these are remarkable for the numerous groups of volcanic and of coral islands with which they are studded; and they constitute a distinct portion of the globe, now generally known as "Polynesia," but to which French geographers have given the title of "Oceania." Some of our modern writers on this subject, however, limit the designation of Polynesia to those islands only which are inhabited by a light-coloured race of people, allied to the Malaysian, and all speaking dialects of the same tongue. Under this division they include New Zealand, the Sandwich Isles, the Marquesas, the Friendly and Navigator's groups, together with the Society, Harvey, and Austral Islands. To New Guinea or Papua, the Admiralty and Solomon groups, the New Hebrides, New Caledonia, and the Fijis or Viti,all of which are peopled by the dark-skinned, crisp-haired tribes, styled Papuans, or Austral negroes, they give the name of Melanesia; whilst the Ladrone Islands, together with that long belt of low coralline formations lying to the north of the equator, and east of the Philippines, known as the Pelew and Caroline archipelagos, they designate Micronesia; including also under this appellation the Radack and Ralick chains, the Gilbert and Marshall Isles, and several other small groups of but little importance.

The extent of ocean embraced within the wide limits throughout which the countless multitudes of the Pacific islands are scattered is equivalent to little less than half the circumference of the globe; but the proportion of land to water in this vast area is very small; over by far the larger portion of it an unbroken expanse of waters meets the voyagers' gaze; whilst, for the most part (if we except Papua and New Zealand), the island-clusters that rise above the waves are mere specks in comparison with the immensity of the ocean that surrounds them.

Long before his death, that great navigator, Columbus, was aware of the existence of the Pacific Ocean, having heard of it from the Indians of Panama during his fourth voyage; but it was not till ten years afterwards that Vasco Nunez de Balboa fiist gazed upon its broad waters from the mountains of Quaregua. Although the new ocean was thus descried for the first time by European adventurers, its bosom was still untracked by any vessel of civilized nations, until Magellan, the earliest circumnavigator, in 1518, found his way into the Pacific through the strait that bears his name, between Patagonia and Tierra del Fuego; whence he sailed westward, across the entire breadth of the Pacific, touching at the Ladrones, and thence proceeding to the Philippines.

About the close of the sixteenth century the

Spaniards sent ships across the Pacific from their recently conquered possessions in Peru, and discovered the Solomon Islands, which Alonzo de Mendana took possession of in the name of the king of Spain, with the view of founding a colony there. On a second voyage for that purpose he lighted upon the Marquesan group, and reached the large island of Santa Cruz, in the New Hebrides, where he died.

A little later, the Dutch doubled Cape Horn, and, after discovering various parts of the coasts of New Zealand and Tasmania, they arrived at the Friendly Islands. Ultimately, under Commodore Roggewein, the same nation discovered, in 1722, Easter Island, situated in the south-eastern portion of the Pacific, far remote from any other land, where colossal stone images of men were seen ranged along the cliifs. From thence the Commodore sailed across the Pacific, towards the East Indies, touching on his way at New Britain and New Guinea.

It was England, however, during the reign of George III., which mainly achieved the exploration of this beautiful and interesting portion of the globe. A series of expeditions were fitted out by the British Government, commencing with those of Byron, Wallis, and Carteret, and by their means the Society Islands and several other important groups were made known to us; but it was the three voyages of

the illustrious Captain Cook, undertaken between the years 1767 and 1779, that formed the grandest era of discovery in the Pacific

After carefully exploring a vast number of islands, and making detailed observations upon their inhabitants and general character. Captain Cook discovered a lofty and fertile cluster of large islands, lying in the north Pacific, just within the tropics, which he named the Sandwich Islands, after the Earl of Sandwich; and these are now the most highly civilized of all the Polynesian groups. It was at the Sandwich Islands, however, that our great circumnavigator, through a misunderstanding with the natives, met with his untimely and lamentable death.

After Cook's labours were over, all the leading outlines of the Polynesian region had been pretty tolerably explored; yet ample room existed for the more careful researches of future navigators, many of whom, French, American, and Russian, as well as English, have since added greatly to our knowledge of the "islands of the Pacific."

Since these grand discoveries took place, a remarkable change has been effected in the social condition of many of the islands (especially those inhabited by the light-coloured race), through the combined influences of Christianity and civilization, consequent upon European intercourse with them. The missionaries, of various sects, have done much

good in overthrowing idolatry, and the cruel and bloody rites connected with it; whilst British and American commerce have opened up a trade with numerous islands that must ultimately lead to their civilization.

Colonization, also, – which, within the last half-century, has started into existence the great Australian colonies, now teeming with wealth, and possessing a vigorous and rapidly increasing European population – has spread itself further on into the Pacific, and the fair valleys of New Zealand (despite the unfortunate conflicts that have taken place with the original inhabitants of the soil) are at the present moment scattered over with Anglo-Saxon homesteads, and its glorious forests are falling before the settler's axe. France, likewise, has lately established a military settlement in New Caledonia, and her tricoloured flag now floats over that considerable possession; whilst the lovely island of Tahiti, with its dependencies, as well as the Marquesas, are also under the dominion of the French empire.

In the North Pacific, the Sandwich Islands are becoming of considerable commercial importance; and the Spanish have long had a colony in the Ladrones. Soon, the "islands of the sea," with civilization and Christianity going hand in hand to their aid, shall display a far greater change than

they have hitherto done. Vast fields for enterprise will be found in that great land of New Guinea, teeming with all the wealth of the tropics; in the large and fertile islands of New Britain, New Ireland, and the Solomon groups; and also in Fiji or "Viti," the sovereignty of which its native king, Thakombau, has already offered to the British crown. In the following chapters of this book it will be our province to enter into more detailed descriptions of the various groups of the Pacific Islands – of their volcanic or coral origin – their scenery, natural history, and productions; and, especially, of the interesting races of mankind by which they are peopled, and of their progress in Christianity and civilization. In conclusion, we would quote from a reverend author, who has travelled much in Polynesia: he says, speaking of its physical features, that in no part of the world are the sublime and beautiful found united in bolder contrast and variety. Lava-belching volcanoes, throwing up vast mountains, and then shattering them again with earthquake throes and convulsions; torrents, leaping precipices of a thousand feet; the blue, unbroken billows of five thousand miles of ocean thundering incessantly upon their coral coasts; placid lagoons and shore-reefs, beautiful with the coral shrubbery of a genial ocean; a tropical velvet verdure covering with its grateful mantle the steepest mountain crags; groves

of the palm and bread-fruit trees, like cedars of Lebanon; dells and valleys, and palm-covered plains, like the Garden of Eden, replete with every tree that is pleasant to the sight and good for food – these are some of the natural features and contrasts of beauty and sublimity to be found in the fairy gardens of Polynesia."

G. F. A.

London, 1866.

CHAPTER I. PHYSICAL AND GEOLOGICAL FEATURES OF POLYNESIA.

POLYNESIA.

CHAPTER I.

PHYSICAL AND GEOLOGICAL FEATURES OF POLYNESIA. – VOLCANIC, CRYSTALLINE, AND CORAL ISLANDS; ATOLLS, BARRIER REEFS, ETC.

CORAL ISLAND, WITH CENTRAL LAGOON.

THE countless pelagic islands that lie scattered, separately or in clusters, over the bosom of the

Pacific, are, almost invariably, composed of either coral or volcanic rocks, or of both; the latter often forming the basis on which, the coral structure has been reared. They have been divided into three distinct groups or classes, namely, High, Median, and Low Polynesia. The first of those, or "High Polynesia," includes the lofty and mountainous islands that tower above the height of 6000 feet; such as the Sandwich Islands, the Marquesas. Tahiti, and New Zealand. These are all of volcanic origin, consisting of basalt, as well as other igneous formations; and contain, in many instances, craters at present in action. They possess a rich and fertile soil, and are eminently beautiful and picturesque; their highest peaks are clad with snow, whilst their valleys display all the luxuriant verdure of tropical vegetation.

"Median Polynesia" comprehends those islands of a moderate altitude, and which are more than 100 feet above the ocean level. These are mostly composed of carbonate of lime, probably coralline rock crystallized, and elevated at some former period by plutonic agency; they are eminently fertile, clothed with evergreen forests, and producing a variety of delicious fruits.

"Low Polynesia" comprises all the countless groups of low coral islands of recent formation, and in the course of formation, many of which are raised only a few feet above the waves, and at times are washed and flooded by occasional storms. They most frequently occur in the form of an oval or horseshoe, wooded with cocoa-nut trees, and enclosing a

ATOLLS.

smooth central lagoon, around which the outer ring or belt of coral reef acts as a breakwater from the ocean waves. This ring-like sea-wall has generally one, often many, openings, and is always highest on its windward side. These islands are called "atolls," or lagoon islands. The soil upon the coralline islands is often thin and poor, so that little vegetation is produced upon them, if we except the widely-spread cocoa-nut palm (which always flourishes best in close proximity to the ocean), the pandanus, and a few stunted bushes of hibiscus and other dwarf shrubs.

The entire basin of the Pacific is known to be one vast theatre of volcanic action; and every island yet examined in Polynesia consists either of volcanic rooks or coral limestone, and in many instances of basalt and lava, having a girdle or fringe of coral reefs. It has been conjectured that the "atolls," from their generally circular shape, their central lagoons, and the shelving conical form of the submarine mountains, are nothing more than the crests of extinct volcanoes rising to the ocean's surface, and having the rims and bottoms of their craters overgrown with coral.

It is generally supposed that every "atoll" marks the site, and traces the outline of sunken land, on which the corals have found a base to build; and, as no corals have been found living and working at a greater depth than from twenty to thirty fathoms, the old notion that coral-polyps were able to build up their steep walls from great depths in the sea is now no longer regarded as tenable.

Amongst the many remarkable structures reared by madrepores on the summits of marine mountains in the Pacific and Indian Oceans, the Keeling Atoll, or South Keeling Island, as described by Darwin, is peculiarly characteristic of this class of formations. The Keeling Atoll, like other coral islands, has been entirely formed by the growth of organic beings, and the accumulation of their detritus. The reef, which essentially forms the atoll, is described as a ring encircling the lagoon on all sides except at the northern end, where there are two open spaces, through one of which ships can enter. This reef varies in width from 250 to 500 yards; its surface is level, or very slightly inclined towards the lagoon, and at high tide the sea breaks entirely over it. The most frequent coral in the hollows on the reef is pocillopora verrucosa, and is of a beautiful pale lake-red. As soon as an islet is formed, and the waves are prevented from breaking entirely over the reef, the channels and hollows in it become filled up with cemented fragments, and its surface is converted into a hard, smooth floor, like an artificial one of freestone. This flat surface varies in width from 100 to 300 yards, and is strewed with a few large fragments of coral torn up during gales; it is uncovered only during low water. Nothing can be more singular than the appearance at low tide of this "flat" of naked stone, especially where it is externally bounded by the smooth convex mound of nulliporae, appearing like a breakwater built to resist the waves, which are constantly throwing

BARRIER REEFS.

over it sheets of foaming water. The highest part of the island is close to the outer beach, and averages from six to ten feet above ordinary high-water mark. At a distance of 2200 yards from the breakers. Captain Fitzroy found no bottom with a line of 7200 feet in length; hence the submarine slope of this coral formation is steeper than that of any volcanic cone; and Mr. Darwin is of opinion that submarine cliffs must exist, from the sudden increase of depth at some places, and from the sounding-linE having been cut as if rubbed at certain depths.

Barrier reefs are found either running parallel to the coasts of large masses of land, such as that of New Guinea, or enclosing one or more islands at a greater or less distance from the shore. The Great Barrier Reef, which guards the north-east coast of Australia, and extends to New Guinea, is upwards of 1000 miles in length, and varies in distance from the shore from ten or fifteen to one hundred miles, and even more, though its average distance is about thirty miles. Many of the islands thus protected by barrier reefs consist of lofty volcanic peaks towering to the clouds; their fertile shores are washed by the placid waters of the surrounding lagoons, whilst, at various distances of from a few yards to two or three miles, the sheltering coral ring shields lake and island from the angry ocean. Against this wonderful barrier the long-rolling surges of the Pacific are driven with terrific violence; towering in one wide sheet of water to an immense height, they roll over their majestic crests

of foam, and, with a noise like thunder, dash against this rocky bulwark, spending their harmless vengeance upon its rugged surface: whilst thousands of glittering rainbows are produced by the sun shining through the spray that rises from the breaking billows.

Mr. Jukes, in his narrative of the voyage of H. M. S. "Fly," says, speaking of these lagoon-enclosing reefs, "The water was perfectly clear, and of great and almost unfathomable depth right up to the outer slope or submarine wall of the reef. The long ocean swell being suddenly impeded by this barrier, lifted itself in one great continuous ridge of deep blue water, which, curling over, fell on the edge of the reef in an unbroken cataract of dazzling white foam. Each line of breakers was often one or two miles in length, with not a perceptible gap in its continuity."

The corals, which are the chief agents in reef-making, or, at all events, in continually building up and keeping them together, are many of them of gigantic size. There are massive kinds at work on the outer edges of the reefs that could not exist within the lagoons, where the small and delicately-branching species flourish. It is difficult to get a sight of them alive and working, because of the heavy seas that break outside; but large blocks are sometimes rolled up on the reefs, twelve or fifteen feet in diameter; and crags of porites, twenty feet long by ten feet high, all forming one connected mass of polyp-cells, have been observed detached from their place of growth, and hurled by the waves on to the shore.

BARRIER REEFS; CORALS.

For the non-destruction of these barrier reefs by the unceasing action of the surf breakers, Mr. Darwin thus accounts. He says, "The ocean throwing its breakers on these outer shores appears an invincible enemy, yet we see it resisted and even conquered by means which at first seem most weak and inefficient. No periods of repose are granted, and the long swell caused by the steady action of the trade-wind never ceases. The breakers exceed in violence those of our temperate regions, and it is impossible to behold them without feeling a conviction that rooks of granite or quartz would ultimately yield and be demolished by such irresistible forces. Yet these low, insignificant coral islands stand, and are victorious, for here another power, as antagonist to the former, takes part in the contest. The organic forces separate the atoms of carbonate of lime, one by one, from the foaming breakers, and unite them into a symmetrical structure. Myriads of architects are at work night and day, month after month, and year after year, and we see their soft gelatinous bodies, through the agency of the vital laws, conquering the great mechanical power of the waves of an ocean, which neither the art of man, nor the inanimate works of nature could successfully resist."

The delicate and beautifully-coloured corals which branch out into long fronds and clustering boughs as it were, are inhabitants of the inner edges of the reefs within the calm lagoon. Mrs. Farmer tells us, "It is a pleasant thing to float in a canoe over the shallow parts of these very clear waters on a fine day. Keeping your oars still, you may watch the

busy and beauteous life below; you may see fish of bright hues playing in and out of the coral stems and branches, seeming to be glad of a refuge from their enemies in the open sea; while the gentle ripple of the waves, touched by the light of a brilliant sun, heightens the charm of the scene."

Mr. Jukes thus draws us a graphic picture of a sheltered nook in one of these lagoons – a natural aquarium on a grand and inimitable scale. He says, "Round masses of maeandrina (brain coral) and astraea were contrasted with delicate leaf-like and cup-shaped expansions of explanaria, and with an infinite variety of branching madreporae and seriatoporae; some with mere finger-shaped projections, others with large branching stems, and others again exhibiting an elegant assemblage of interlacing twigs, of the most exquisite workmanship. Their colours were unrivalled, vivid greens, contrasting with more sober browns and yellows, mingled with rich shades of purple, from pale pink to deep blue. Bright red, yellow, and peach-coloured nulliporae clothed those masses that were dead, mingled with beautiful pearly flakes of eschara and retipora; the latter looking like lace-work in ivory. In among the branches of the corals, like birds among trees, floated many beautiful fish, radiant with metallic greens and crimsons, or fantastically banded with black and yellow stripes. Patches of clear white sand were seen here and there for the floor, with dark hollows and recesses beneath overhanging masses and ledges."

It is somewhat as follows that the inner sides of

PROGRESS OF A CORAL ISLAND.

the reefs gradually become islands, on which trees grow, and human beings find a habitation. After the reef rises so high as to be nearly bare at low water the corals cease to build. Large masses of their dead cells are often detached by the combined action of the sun and waves, and thrown by the surf on to the summit of the reef, so as to give it a higher elevation. Then the washing of the waves wears down the more delicate kinds of corals, and rubs them into powder; this powder fills up vacant spaces, whilst unseen chemical agency aids in forming masses of limestone. Wherever, throughout the ocean, rocks are formed, there is also certain to be an abundance of animal life. Sea-weed creeps over them – shell-fish attach themselves in thick layers, whilst the teeth and palates of fishes, and other debris, serve to increase the mass. Drift-timber is constantly cast ashore, and the floating cocoa-nut, and other stray seeds from some neighbouring isle, at length take root in the soil that is soon formed by the deposits of sea-birds and other decaying matter. At length, as vegetation spreads, the soil becomes more productive; and, after the lapse of ages, the feathery cocoa-nut trees wave their lofty heads against the blue sky, whilst the lower forms of animals begin to make the "atoll" their home. Lastly, a canoe is driven ashore, and its shipwrecked occupants become masters of this new creation.

CHAPTER II. ACTIVE VOLCANOES, BOILING SPRINGS, AND OTHER NATURAL PHENOMENA.

CHAPTER II.

ACTIVE VOLCANOES, BOILING SPRINGS, AND OTHER NATURAL PHENOMENA.

BOILING SPRINGS AT SAVU-SAVU, FIJI.

THE largest and most important burning mountains at present in a state of activity in the Polynesian Islands are those which occur in the Sandwich group. One of these, the volcano of Kirauea, in the

[Inserted unpaginated illustration]

CRATER OF KILAUEA

THE CRATER OF KIRAUEA.

island of Hawaii, is especially worthy of notice. Indeed, the whole island, covering a space of 4000 square miles, from the summits of its lofty and snow-clad mountains, some 14,000 feet above the sea, down to the beach, is, according to the observations of geologists, one complete mass of lava and other volcanic substances in different stages of decomposition. Perforated with innumerable apertures in the shape of craters, the island forms a hollow cone over one vast furnace, situated in the heart of a stupendous submarine mountain, rising from the bottom of the sea.

The great volcano of Kirauea, or "Kirauea-nui," as it is called by the Sandwich Islanders, is situated about twenty-five miles inland from the south-east coast of Hawaii, and nearly equidistant between the two great mountains called Moana Kea and Moana Roa, the elevation of the former of which is estimated to be 13,645 feet, whilst that of the latter exceeds 14,000.

This crater was first visited and described by the Rev. W. Ellis, who made the ascent in 1823. In his graphic and interesting narrative, he thus describes the scene presented to his view, on reaching the edge of the great crater, after a toilsome ascent through regions of lava and volcanic sand: – "About two P. M. the crater of Kirauea suddenly burst upon our view. We expected to have seen a mountain with a broad base, and rough indented sides, composed of loose slags or hardened streams of lava, and whose summit would have presented a rugged wall of scoria, forming the rim of a mighty

cauldron. But instead of this, we found ourselves on the edge of a steep precipice, with a vast plain before us, fifteen or sixteen miles in circumference, and sunk from 200 to 400 feet below its original level. The surface of this plain was uneven, and strewed over with large stones and volcanic rocks, and in the centre of it was the great crater, at a distance of about a mile and a half from the walls of the precipice on which we were standing. Our guides led us round towards the north end of the ridge, in order to find a place by which we might descend to the plain below. The steep down which we scrambled was formed of volcanic matter, apparently a light red and grey kind of lava, vesicular, and lying in horizontal strata, varying from one to forty feet in thickness. In a small number of places the different strata of lava were also rent in perpendicular or oblique directions from the top to the bottom, cither by earthquakes, or other violent convulsions of the ground connected with the action of the adjacent volcano. After walking some distance over the sunken plain, which in several places sounded hollow under our feet, we at length came to the edge of the great crater itself, where a spectacle, sublime, and even appalling, presented itself before us. Immediately before us yawned an immense gulf, in the form of a crescent, about two miles in length, from north-east to southwest, nearly a mile in width, and apparently 800 feet deep. The bottom was covered with lava, and the south-western and northern parts of it were one vast flood of burning matter, in a state of terrific ebullition,

NIGHT SCENE ON KIRAUEA.

rolling to and fro its fiery surge and flaming billows. Fifty-one conical islands, so to speak, of varied form and size, containing so many craters, rose either round the edge or from the surface of the burning lake. Twenty-two of them constantly emitted columns of grey smoke or pyramids of brilliant flame; and several of these at the same time vomited from their ignited mouths streams of lava, which rolled in blazing torrents down their black, indented sides into the boiling mass below.

"The grey and calcined sides of the huge crater before us; the fissures which intersected the surface of the plain on which we were standing; the long banks of yellow sulphur on the opposite side of the abyss; the vigorous action of the numerous small craters on its borders; the dense columns of vapour and smoke that rose at the north and south ends of the plain; together with the ridge of steep rocks by which it was surrounded, rising probably in some places 300 or 400 feet in perpendicular height, presented an immense volcanic panorama, the effect of which was greatly augmented by the constant roaring of the vast furnaces below."

At night, the grandeur of the scene reached its climax. "The dark clouds and heavy fog that after sunset had settled over the volcano, gradually cleared away, and the fires of Kirauea, darting their fierce light athwart the midnight gloom, unfolded a sight terrible and sublime beyond all we had seen.

"The agitated mass of liquid lava, like a flood of melted metal, raged with tumultuous whirl. The lively flame that danced over its undulating surface,

tinged with sulphurous blue, or glowing with mineral red, cast a broad glare of dazzling light on the indented sides of the insulated craters, whose roaring mouths, amidst rising flames and eddying streams of fire, shot up at intervals, with very loud detonations, spherical masses of fusing lava, or bright, ignited stones. The dark, bold outline of the perpendicular and jutting rocks around, formed a striking contrast with the luminous lake below, whose vivid rays, thrown on the rugged promontories, and reflected by the overhanging clouds, combined to complete the awful grandeur of the scene."

The heathen inhabitants of Polynesia always regard with superstitious dread these regions of fire, which they consider to be the primeval abodes of their volcanic deities. Kirauea was supposed by the Sandwich Islanders to be the head-quarters of their terrible goddess Pele; and to their poetic fancies the conical craters were houses, where the gods of the mountain frequently amused themselves by playing Konane. 1 The roaring of the furnaces; and the crackling of the flames were the music of their dances, and the red sea of fire was the lake in which they sportively swam and played.

The volcano of Tongariro, which is situated amongst the high snow-covered mountains of the interior of the north island of New Zealand, presents the appearance of a huge truncated cone, from which volumes of steam and vapour are issuing from time to time.

THE TONGARIRO.

This mountain is held in traditional reverence by the natives, and is much dreaded by them, being, as they say, the "backbone of their Tupuna," or great ancestor, and having a white head, like their principal chieftain. So sacred, indeed, is the "tapu," or law amongst them, forbidding any stranger to approach it, that its ascent has been a matter of great difficulty to Europeans. Mr. Bidwill, however, succeeded in getting to the top of the crater by stealth, during the absence of the chief of Taupo, and from his account we will take an extract.

The Tongariro is computed to be about 6200 feet above the sea, whilst not far from it rises the huge snow-clad mountain of Ruapahu, which attains an altitude of about 9000 feet.

Mr. Bidwill says: "After toiling upwards all day through a region of stunted vegetation and rugged water-courses, we came to a spot where the base of the cone could be seen. The natives refused to go any farther, and covered their faces with their mats, as they said it was 'tapu' to look at the sacred mountain, or at least the peak. Next morning I was astonished to see the mountains around covered with snow, except the cone, which was visible from its base to its apex, and appeared quite close. I set off, immediately after breakfast, with only two natives, as all the others were afraid to go any nearer to the much-dreaded place; nor could I persuade the two who did set off with me to go within a mile of the base of the cone. They, however, made a fire of such small bushes as they could collect, and waited for me till I got back. As there

was no path, I went as straight towards the peak as I could, going over hills and through valleys, without swerving to the right or left. As I was toiling over a very steep hill I heard a noise, which caused me to look up, and I saw that the mountain was in a state of eruption; a thick column of black smoke rose up for some distance, and then spread out like a mushroom. The noise, which was very loud, and not unlike that of the safety-valve of a steam-engine, lasted about half an hour, and then ceased after two or three sudden interruptions; the smoke continued to ascend for some time afterwards, but was less dense.

"I could see no fire, nor do I believe that there was any, or that the eruption was anything more than hot water and steam, although, from the great density of the latter, it looked like very black smoke. As I progressed towards the cone, I arrived at a stream of lava, which looked as though it had been ejected but yesterday. It was black, very hard and compact, and there was not the slightest appearance of even a lichen on it. I had no idea of a 'sea of rocks' until I crossed this lava-bed; the edges of the stony billows were so sharp that it was with difficulty I passed among them without cutting my clothes to shreds. I at last arrived at the cone: it was, I suppose, of the ordinary steepness of such heaps of volcanic cinders, but much higher. I estimate it at 1500 feet from the hollow from which it appears to have sprung. It looks as if a vast amphitheatre had been hollowed out of the surrounding mountains in order to place it in. The sides of

THE CONE OF TONGARIRO.

all the mountains around are quite perpendicular, and present a most magnificent scene. The cone is entirely composed of loose cinders, and I was heartily tired of the exertion before I reached the top. Had it not been for the desire of standing where no man ever stood before, I should certainly have given up the undertaking. The crater was the most terrific abyss I ever looked into, or could imagine. The rocks overhung it on all sides, and it was not possible to see above ten yards into it, from the quantity of steam which it was continually discharging. I imagine it to be at least a quarter of a mile in diameter, and very deep. It was impossible to get on the inside ledge of the crater, as the sides were, if not quite precipitous, actually overhanging, so as to make it very disagreeable to look over them.

"The rocks on the top were covered with a whitish deposit, and there was abundance of sulphur in all directions. I did not stay at the top so long as I could have wished, because I heard a strange noise coming out of the crater, which I thought betokened another eruption; and as I had no desire to be either boiled or steamed to death, I made the best of my way down. I had not quite got down to the lava plain when I heard the noise of another eruption. I was half frozen before I reached the ravine, and thoroughly drenched by the mist, so that I was very glad when I found the place where I had left the natives and the fire, which I reached about seven in the evening."

From Tongariro, in a north-east direction to the

coast, the whole country of New Zealand is studded with boiling springs, solfataras, and stufas innumerable. The island of Puhia-i-wakari, or White Island, lying off the east coast, is a low island still in a state of volcanic activity, and must be regarded as the summit of a crater but little elevated above the level of the sea. It emits, from time to time, volumes of white smoke, and produces a great quantity of sulphur. Several cargoes of this sulphur have been brought to Europe, where it has realized 8l. per ton. It is very pure, containing ninety per cent.

The island of Tofua, in the Hapai group of the Friendly Islands, is about ten miles in circumference. Sudden flames continually shoot up from its smoking crater, and terrific eruptions have from time to time taken place, accompanied with showers of stones and streams of molten lava. Tofua has a basin in its centre, and at the bottom, nearly on a level with the sea, is a pool of clear fresh water, about three miles across. The mouth of the volcano is about half way up this basin.

A few miles distant from Tofua, which is about three quarters of a mile in elevation, is a lofty conical island, just one mile high, with a volcano in action, from which the smoke pours forth in dense black clouds.

The appearance of the remains of the extraordinary island of Funua-lai, to the north of the Vavau group of the Friendly Islands, is thus graphically described by the late Rev. Walter Lawry: "Funua-lai presented the most awful and terrific appearance.

FUNUA-LAI; NIUA FOOU.

It was a circular and rather high volcanic island, about ten miles round, until of late, when it became so frightfully convulsed, that it was turned inside out, and split into two parts." The heavy earthquakes which preceded this catastrophe caused the inhabitants to leave the island in their canoes, and proceed to Vavau. When Mr. Lawry sailed past it in the Wesleyan Missionary vessel, he says, "the idea it impressed upon our minds was that of a ruined world. It smelt very strongly of sulphur, and exhibited rents, and piles of burnt sand and vitrified matter, as if the bowels of the earth had been turned outside. The openings of crater after crater were seen in all directions, and the sea, for a great distance, was discoloured by the floods of lava poured forth; whilst volumes of smoke were issuing from the countless crevices of the smouldering ruin. The light of the flame caused quite an illumination at Vavau, distant thirty-five miles; and the noise of this fiery disgorge was distinctly heard for three successive days at Niua Foou, distant 130 miles." The dust and vitrified matter were discharged from this volcano to such a height, that their withering effects were seriously felt at Vavau, where the damage was considerable both to the trees and the crops generally: whilst vessels passing from Tonga to Vavau had their decks loaded with tons of falling ashes.

The lonely island of Niua Foou, lying by itself nearly midway between the Navigator's and the Friendly Islands, is a remarkable volcanic feature, although not now in active operation. This island,

composed for the most part of blocks of lava, is far from being rich and fertile like those of Tonga and Vavau; it is about fifteen miles in circumference, and has the singular appearance of being hollow in the middle. It resembles the brim of a hat, the centre being, no doubt, the crater of an extinct volcano. A sheet of brackish water covers this immense cavity, which has never yet been fathomed. It stretches about three miles across, and seems to have no communication with the sea. This unruffled lake, with three small islets covered with trees, forms a beautiful contrast to the troubled sea, whose roaring billows continually lash the vitrified iron-bound coast of the outer rim or circle on which the natives live. There are no fish of any kind in this central lake. Upon the whole of the island there is scarcely a drop of fresh water, except what falls from the clouds, which the natives secure in hollow trees scooped out for the purpose. The view of the interior lake studded with islets, as seen from the elevation of several thousand feet – the peep, through the ravines, of the outer ring, of the deep-blue surging ocean – and then, below, a landscape of woods, fruit-trees, and native plantations, interspersed with blocks of scoria, as if fresh from the mouth of a furnace, constitute a scene of peculiarly novel grandeur.

Volcanic disturbances appear to be continually occurring amongst the islands of the Tonga or Friendly group; and, owing to some remarkable submarine agency, the missionary brig, 'John Wesley,' was totally wrecked, in November, 1865,

VOLCANOES OF THE NEW HEBRIDES

on the island of Tau. Being bound to Tonga, the vessel, lying-to during the night amongst the reefs, was suddenly driven forward by an alarming race of current towards one of them; just afterwards, three tremendous tidal waves carried the vessel clean over the outer edge of the reef, and left her nearly dry, where she remained a total wreck, the missionaries and crew narrowly escaping with their lives.

In the New Hebrides are the active volcanoes of Tauna and Ambrym. Around the slopes of the former are numerous fumeroles or spiraculae, which, whenever an explosion takes place, emit large quantities of sulphurous vapours. These fumeroles extend in some places close down to the sea; and at high water, many of the hot springs, so numerous thereabouts, are covered by the tide.

Forster, who observed these islands on Cook's second voyage, says of them: "When we were in the midst of the New Hebrides we saw a fine large island, which had all the appearance of the greatest fertility and highest cultivation. We remarked on its summit, in two places, a smoke rising, of a much greyer hue than that from an ordinary fire. Coming afterwards to Mallicollo, we learned from the natives that this isle was called Ambrym, and that there was a fire coming out of the hills. We observed on the south-east side of the island (which is gently sloping, and has a very beautiful appearance) white columns of smoke, rolling with great velocity and strength out of the summit of one of the inland hills, which, however, was not the highest hill on

the isle. The north shores of Mallicollo were covered with pumice-stones of various sizes.

"The Island of Tanna was seen by us afterwards. The night preceding our arrival we observed a very great fire on this isle, every now and then blazing up with violence. In the morning we saw plainly a volcano at the end of a low range of hills, not elevated more than 120 or 150 yards above the sea; its aspect was that of a truncated cone, quite barren, of a reddish grey, and having the appearance of being formed by ashes, pumice, and lava. Every four or five minutes we perceived a straight column of smoke of a reddish cast rising with great velocity. After the smoke, or rather column of ignited ashes, had risen to a considerable height, the resistance of the air and its own gravitation brought it down, when it branched out into separate masses, assuming the form of a large cauliflower. The clouds of smoke and ashes emitted from the volcano had all the various hues of yellow, orange, red, and dark purple, dying away into brownish grey." Some of the ignited stones thrown up by the crater of Tanna must be of an immense size, as they were distinctly visible, according to Forster, from the deck of the vessel when eight miles off.

The interior of the north island of New Zealand, having the great crater of Tongariro as its centre of volcanic action, is remarkable also for the number of boiling ponds and thermal springs which are scattered about in the neighbourhood of the Taupo and Roturua lakes. Perhaps the most extensive and interesting of these are the hot springs of Roto-

WARM LAKE OF ROTOMAHANA.

mahana, and the boiling cascade of Wakatara. As a description of one or two of them will suffice to show the general character of the whole, we will quote Dr. Dieffenbach's account of his visit to Rotomahana: – he says, "Towards evening we reached the hills which surround the warm lake on all sides. They were of considerable elevation, and many of their slopes were almost entirely converted into red or white clay by the hot gases which issued from the surface. When we arrived on the crest of these hills, the view which opened was one of the grandest I had ever beheld. Let the reader imagine a deep lake of a blue colour, surrounded by hills; in the lake several islets, some showing the bare rock, others covered with shrubs, while on all of them steam issued from a hundred openings between the green foliage, without impairing its freshness; on the opposite side a flight of broad steps of the colour of white marble, with a rosy tint, and a cascade of boiling water falling over them into the lake." On being conveyed next morning in a native canoe across the lake to the foot of the cascade, Dr. Dieffenbach ascended the steps, which are about fifty in number, and from one to two feet deep; many of them, however, having subdivisions, resulting from the gradual deposition of the silex held in solution by the boiling water. He goes on to tell us, "that these steps proved to be entirely owing to the siliceous deposits of the waters of the hot pond above. We found the water moderately tepid. The steps are firm like porcelain, and have a tinge of carmine. The concretions assume interesting forms of mamillary

stalagmites of the colour of milk-white chalcedony; and here and there, where the rounded steps overhung the former deposits, stalactites of various sizes were depending. The boiling pond on the top, which was clear and blue, could not be approached, as the concretions at its margin were very thin and fragile. The pond was about thirty feet round, and perhaps one hundred feet above the level of the Rotomahana. The water which is discharged from this pond and from other places into the lake, warms its waters to 35 deg. Fahrenheit above the temperature of the air, that is, to 95 deg."

Mr. Angas visited the boiling springs which formerly issued from the side of a steep mountain above the native village of Te Rapa, on the shores of Lake Taupo; he says, "There are nearly 100 of them; they burst out, bubbling up from little orifices in the ground, which are not more than a few inches in diameter, and the steam rushes out in clouds with considerable force; the hill-side is covered with them, and a river of hot water runs down into the lake. The soil around is a red and white clay, strongly impregnated with sulphur and gases; pyrites also occur. Several women were busy cooking baskets of potatoes over some of the smaller orifices; leaves and fern were laid over the holes, upon which the food was placed." All that now remains of the once pretty and populous native "pah," or village of Te Rapa, is a mass of dry yellowish mud, a tremendous land-slip having occurred shortly after Mr. Angas's visit. The numerous small boiling springs having gradually loosened

BOILING PONDS AT TE RAPA.

the side of the mountain above the "pah," its own weight brought it down with the force of an avalanche, carrying trees, rocks, and everything before it, till it overwhelmed the "pah," swallowing up the poor old chief Te Heu-Heu, with about sixty of his people – men, women, and children. The only living things that escaped having been a horse, and a youth, a nephew of the chief.

Of the boiling ponds, two miles from Te Rapa, Mr. Angas says: "On the edge of a great swampy flat, I met with a number of boiling ponds, some of them of very large dimensions. Along whole tracts of ground I heard the water boiling violently beneath the crust over which I was treading. It is said that the Roturua natives, who build their houses over the hot springs in that district for the sake of warmth at night, frequently meet with fatal accidents. It has happened that when a party have been dancing on the floor, the crust has given way, and the convivial assembly have been suddenly swallowed up in the boiling cauldron beneath. Some of the ponds are ninety feet in circumference, filled with transparent, pale-blue, boiling water, sending up columns of steam. Channels of hot water run along the ground in every direction; and the surface of this calcareous flat around the margins of the boiling ponds is covered with beautiful incrustations of lime and alum, in some parts forming flat, saucer-like figures. Husks of Indian corn, mosses, and branches of trees, were incrusted in the same manner. I also observed small deep holes or wells here and there amongst the grass and tall

rushes, from two or three inches to as many feet in diameter, filled with boiling mud, which rises up in large bubbles, as thick as hasty-rndding. These mud-pits send up a strong sulphurous smell."

The natives in the vicinity of these hot springs construct reservoirs, into which they conduct the water gradually, its temperature being kept up or decreased at pleasure by stopping out the boiling stream with mud and stones. By this means they are enabled to enjoy the luxury of a warm bath, of which numbers, especially of the young people, are continually availing themselves; and it is not unusual to see twenty or thirty persons squatting together in the hot water, with only their heads above the surface.

[Inserted unpaginated illustration]

BANIAN TREE IN THE NAVIGATOR'S ISLANDS.

1 A game, somewhat resembling drafts, also played by the New Zealanders.

CHAPTER III. VEGETABLE PRODUCTIONS.

CHAPTER III.

VEGETABLE PRODUCTIONS. – TREES, FRUITS, AND FLOWERS.

SCENE IN HUAHINE; THE COCOA-NUT, BREAD-FRUIT, PLANTAIN, AND PANDANUS.

LYING, as most of the Polynesian islands do, within the sunny regions of the tropics, and being nourished with the constant moisture of the surrounding ocean, as well as possessing generally a rich volcanic soil in their fertile valleys, their vegetable productions

are consequently of the most luxuriant and varied character. By far the greater portion of the forest trees, that clothe the island-mountains to their very summits, are evergreens, not only in the tropical regions, but also in New Zealand; and even in the Auckland Islands (which latter are situated in 51 deg. south), voyagers tell us, the hills are thickly covered with lofty trees of most vigorous growth, which, in the dead of winter, retain their verdure as if it was midsummer.

The visitor to the shores of New Zealand will be struck by the scantiness of annual and flowering plants, of which very few possess vivid colours to attract the attention of the florist. On the other hand, he will find a vast number of species of evergreen forest trees, together with an endless variety of ferns, some of gigantic size, of which the greater part of the flora consists. The glaucous character of an Australian landscape, produced by its Eucalypti, Casuarinae, and Banksiae, is exchanged in New Zealand for the glossy green of a dense and mixed forest, or, in the open country, for the russet-brown of the social fern. In the former general aspect, together with the tree-ferns, palms, and dragon-trees, which abound in New Zealand, that country resembles one situated between the tropics, and has much of the same character of vegetation as many of the beautiful islands lying north of it.

The following description, by Dr. Bennett, of his first impressions of Tahiti, will convey a general idea of the luxuriant foliage of tropical Polynesia. He says, "the waving cocoa-palms – the verdant

TAHITIAN SCENERY.

mountains in the background – the bright green of the orange groves – the drooping fronds of the Pandanus trees, almost dipping into the rolling surges on the beach – and a pretty islet, studded with cocoa-palms, situated in the centre of the bay, – all combined to form a delightful landscape. Rambling a short distance inland, no plantations were seen; but the whole island may be termed a garden; for cocoa-palms, bread-fruit trees, plantains and bananas, the Vi or Brazilian plum, and the Ohia or Jambo, were growing spontaneously, and bearing fruit; to these at another season may be added oranges, pineapples, shaddocks, and other introduced fruits, which thrive as well as the indigenous plants. Advancing further towards the mountains, the elegant South Sea chestnut-tree adorned the banks of the streams, together with a luxuriant vegetation of ferns and other plants; whilst the brows of the hills were covered by thickets of waving bamboos, or dense masses of the mountain plantain-tree, conspicuous from its dark green and broad foliage and huge clusters of orange-coloured fruit; and the upland slopes, leading to a succession of naked crags, were feathered by tall, graceful shrubs, loaded with odoriferous blossoms."

In the gloomy and dense forests of New Zealand there are in some places groves composed entirely of the beautiful "nikau" palm, mingling with tree-ferns from ten to forty feet in height: these are shaded eternally from the sun by the lofty canopy of foliage overhead, and nourished by the ceaseless moisture that drops from every spray, rendering

these antipodean forests rank with vegetation. Parasites sprout from the loftiest trees, whilst mosses and ferns clothe their trunks with green, carrying a profusion of vegetable life up into their topmost branches. All is of the deepest green, and amidst the gloom and shady recesses of these primeval woods, a solemn and almost unbroken stillness reigns; whilst the warm, damp air is laden with the delicious odour of the "horopito;" and the tangled undergrowth of fuschias is rendered gay by the clustering blossoms of a large white clematis.

Amongst the timber trees most important to commerce are the dammara pines, several species of which occur in New Zealand, the New Hebrides, New Caledonia, and the Figis. The New Zealand dammara or kauri pine grows very erect, and is a model of symmetry, producing whorls of branches at regular intervals up the stem, tapering to the top. It attains the height of ninety feet and upwards, and a circumference of twenty to twenty-four feet. The timber is close-grained, durable, and valuable either in plank or for the yards and masts of vessels, for which purpose it has long been in requisition for the ships of Her Majesty's navy. This tree, like all the other species of dammara, yields a white resin, which exudes from the trunk and branches, and burns with an agreeable smell; it is known as "kauri gum," and is now in great demand as an article of commerce for the production of a clear and beautiful varnish. The New Zealanders call this gum "the water of the tree;" and on digging in the ground, the resin is found in lumps, in locali-

TIMBER PINES.

ties where, no doubt, ages since, forests of these trees grew, but where none at present exist. Large masses of resin are procured by probing the ground with iron spikes, at a depth of from two to three feet. This resin has lately been found imbedded in, layers with coal in the recently-discovered coalfields of New Zealand. When mixed with a kind of asphaltum, the kauri gum is chewed by the northern natives; and the greatest compliment an old New Zealand woman can pay to a guest is to offer him the well-masticated quid which she takes from her own mouth.

In the Figis there are two other species of dammara pines, affording equally excellent timber. In the whole of the southern district of Vanua Levu and Viti Levu (Great Figi) are extensive forests, in which dammara-trees abound. On the banks of the Navua – a fine river in Viti Levu – they are particularly fine and very numerous, and their proximity to deep water renders their removal for purposes of commerce very easy.

The Dammara moorei of New Caledonia grows in the open ground, and fringes the summits of the hills, imparting to them a singular appearance from the sea. It is a beautiful tree, attaining a height of fifty feet, with graceful pendulous branches at the base, which gradually diminish in size upwards, so as to give the tree the outline of a sharp pyramid.

When Captain Erskine approached La Perouse Island in H. M. S. "Havannah," huge, heavy trees were conspicuous amongst the dense forests occupy-

ing a great extent of ground, and proved on examination to be another new species of dammara.

The Norfolk Island pine is, however, the most noble and imposing in its appearance of all the coniferous trees of the Pacific. It belongs to the genus Araucaria, which have the double-dotted vascular tissue of the fossil pines found in the coal-measures of Great Britain. In the sheltered glens of Norfolk Island, amidst the luxuriant verdure of a perpetual spring, these giant trees tower upwards into the air to a height of nearly 200 feet, presenting a singular beauty in the straightness and regularity of their growth and denseness of their foliage, which spreads out in broad lateral branches, that spring from the mast-like trunk at regular intervals, gradually tapering towards the top, and presenting a succession of wide and shadowy plumes of the most brilliant green, set at right angles to the stem with such precision as to present somewhat of an artificial appearance.

The Kaikeatea pine (Dacrydium excelsum) is the loftiest of the many fine timber trees that adorn the New Zealand forests. It attains the height of 120 to 130 feet, and grows usually in moist localities, where it may be seen covered by an elegant climbing plant, the Freycinetia Banksii, or tawara, the sweet mucilaginous bracteae of the blossoms of which are delicious eating, and much prized by the natives, their flavour resembling that of a rich and juicy pear; whilst its long leaves are employed to form baskets for holding food. This pine produces a reddish gum-resin, and bears a small crimson

NEW ZEALAND TIMBER TREES.

fruit. The native canoes are made from its timber, its great length rendering it very useful for this purpose.

The New Zealand tanekaha (Phyllocladus trichmanoides) grows to an elevation of from sixty to seventy feet: the timber is hard, of good quality, and so heavy that it sinks in water. From the bark of this tree the natives extract a permanent black dye, with which they stain their flax garments. The totara (Podocarpus totara) is also a magnificent pine from the same locality, and is much valued for the excellence of its dark-red timber. The New Zealand teak (Vitex littoralis) grows near the sea, and produces a very durable wood, which takes a fine polish, and is of great use in ship-building. Its flowers are elegant, drooping, and of a pink colour, whilst the fruit is of a brilliant scarlet.

The karaka (Corynocarpus laevigata) of New Zealand is a tall handsome tree, with dark-green shining foliage, and clusters of small white flowers. The fruit is yellow, about the size of a plum, which, as well as the seeds, is used as an article of food by the natives. The latter, when prepared by being steamed and soaked in water for some days, are made into a sort of black-looking cakes, which have an insipid taste, although the native children appear to relish them exceedingly. If eaten without being prepared in this manner, the seeds cause violent and spasmodic pains and paralysis of the limbs.

In the month of December, the New Zealand Metrosideros robusta, or pohutukaua tree is covered with its clusters of bright red flowers. It is irregu-

lar and crooked in its growth, but imparts a picturesque appearance to the landscape. It generally grows near the sea, or on the shores of the inland lakes, where, when the pohutukaua trees are covered with their red blossoms, the scenery is most beautiful.

The tamanu (Calophyllum inophyllum) is lofty and branching, with thick, oval, dark-green leaves, and clusters of scented white flowers; the fruit is reddish-brown and fragrant. This tree, in Tahiti, attains a height of fifty or sixty feet; and was formerly regarded as sacred by the natives, being planted in their morais, and the penalty of death exacted for destroying a branch. The wood is hard, red, and handsomely veined, resembling Spanish mahogany. The resin which exudes from the trunk is an article of commerce, and is also used by the Tahitian females as a perfume.

The coral tree is a magnificent object in the Polynesian landscape. It is the Erythrina corallodendron, producing masses of scarlet blossoms, like coral, whilst its foliage, of a most refreshing green colour, affords a delightful and cooling shade.

Amongst the valuable timber trees indigenous to the island of Tahiti may also be mentioned the apape (Rhus apape), the mara (Cephanthus mara), and the faifai (Acacia myriadena), all of which attain to a height of from forty to seventy feet, and produce woods of excellent quality for building and other purposes.

The blood-wood tree of Norfolk Island (Baloghia lucida), is an elegant tree, about forty feet high, with dark, shining, obtuse, dense foliage. The trunk is

POLYNESIAN TREES.

of small diameter, and yields a blood-red sap, which, during the period that Norfolk Island was occupied as a penal settlement, was much used as an indelible paint for marking the bags and clothing of the convicts.

The Inocarpus edulis, or South-Sea chestnut grows abundantly on many of the Polynesian islands. The trunk of this tree presents a remarkable appearance, having projections like buttresses standing out from it on all sides, and extending from the root to the branches. The leaves are of a dark, rich green colour, and the flowers in racemes, small, white, and fragrant. The fruit, which is flat and kidney-shaped, is much esteemed by the islanders, and when baked, resembles a chestnut in taste.

The splendid Barringtonia speciosa is found in Rotuma, the Friendly Islands, and Tahiti. It is a lofty tree, with wide branches, bearing a profusion of magnificent pink flowers, which are succeeded by a large quadrangular seed-vessel. The wood, however, is comparatively worthless, and the fruit used only for poisoning fish.

The Rev. Walter Lawry mentions a species of banian tree which he saw in the Friendly Islands. Speaking of the island of Haafeva, one of that group, he says: "In the centre of this little isle, which is about three miles round, stands a fine "ovava" tree. We measured it, and found its girth forty-five feet round the trunk; its width, from the extremes of the opposite branches 190 feet; its height far more than 100 feet. Four houses stood beneath its shade; one belonging to each of the four districts or tribes into

which this sea-girt isle was formerly divided. This noble tree throws down many suckers to the earth, which grow and become props to its far-extended lateral branches, similar to the banian tree, to which family it probably belongs."

There is an elegant protaeaceous tree which attains to a very great height in the forests of New Zealand, the Knightia excelsa, or riwa-riwa of the natives. It grows very straight, and is covered in the summer time with flowers of a beautiful purple hue.

The Aralia crassifolia or fish-bone tree is a curious object in the New Zealand woods. It runs up with a slender stem to thirty feet, having tufts of leaves thrown out near the top, which are about a foot in length and an inch in breadth, of a thick, coriaceous texture, irregularly jagged at the edges and abrupt at the end. Some of these trees grow erect, others incline towards the ground, and the stems being slender, tough, and flexible, readily wave to the passing breeze.

It is on the low coral islands that the cocoa-nut tree displays its fullest vigour, flourishing on the most barren and unsheltered sea-beach, amongst fragments of coral rock and sand, and where its roots are washed by every advancing tide. Unlike the bread-fruit, plantain, and other trees affording valuable fruit, which require a fertile soil to bring them to perfection, the cocoa-nut, though it grows well in the inland valleys, and on the banks of the streams that meander through them, appears to thrive best close to the sea, amidst a soil of broken coral and sand. It imparts to the landscape all the richness

THE COCOA NUT.

and elegance of equatorial verdure, and forms everywhere a striking feature with its straight and tapering stem, and the beautiful crown of feathery leaves which it bears at its summit, and which, like a graceful plume, waves and nods to every passing breeze. The following description, from the pen of a talented author, shows the value of this tree, and the number of purposes to which its productions are applied by the Polynesians: – "Year after year the islander reposes beneath its shade, both eating and drinking of its fruit; he thatches his hut with its boughs, and weaves them into baskets to carry his food; he cools himself with a fan plaited from the young leaflets, and shields his head from the sun by a bonnet of the leaves; sometimes he clothes himself with the cloth-like substance which wraps round the base of the leaf-stalks, whose elastic rods, strung with filberts, are used as a taper: the larger nuts, thinned and polished, furnish him with a beautiful goblet, the smaller ones with bowls for pipes; the dry husks kindle his fires; their fibres are twisted into fishing-lines and cordage for his canoes; he heals his wounds with a balsam compounded from the juice of the nut; and with the oil extracted from its pithy lining, anoints his own limbs, and embalms the bodies of the dead. The noble trunk itself is far from being valueless. Sawn into posts it upholds the islander's dwelling; converted into charcoal, it cooks his food; and, supported on blocks of coral, it rails in his lands. He impels his canoe through the water with a paddle of the wood, and goes to battle with clubs and spears made of the same material."

A considerable trade in cocoa-nut oil is carried on amongst the islands. It is extracted from the nut by the natives, and sold by them to the captains of vessels who make periodical visits for the purchase of the oil.

Several other species of palms occur in Polynesia, amongst which may be mentioned the fan-palm, the leaves of which serve the purpose of umbrellas, and are also used as fans; a kind of sago-palm, the medullary pith of which is eaten by the natives, whilst its broad leaves are employed for thatching: and the areka-palm of New Zealand, which grows in the forests to a height of thirty or thirty-five feet, the young succulent heart of which is edible, and resembles the cocoa-nut in flavour.

The sandal-wood (Santalum Freycinetianum) formerly grew abundantly at the Sandwich Islands, and constituted one of their principal articles of export; it has now almost disappeared from those islands, but is still found in the New Hebrides and other parts, of western Polynesia. Owing to the delicious fragrance of the wood of this tree it has long been in demand for ornamental purposes, especially by the Chinese, who not only carve beautiful articles out of it, such as fans, card-cases, and the like, but burn it in their joss-houses or temples as an incense. Many small vessels belonging to the Australian colonies are engaged in the sandal-wood trade, procuring it from the natives for the Chinese market. In the New Hebrides, the traders use a shell instead of money in the purchase of the wood; it is a beautiful and scarce species of ovulum (Ovulum

THE BREAD-FRUIT TREE.

angulosum, Lam.) about an inch and a half long, looking like polished ivory, with a violet interior. This shell is obtained only at the Friendly Islands, and is so much valued by the natives of the New Hebrides for personal ornament that they will frequently give a ton of sandal wood for a single "nampoori."

The bread-fruit (Artocarpus incisa) forms the principal article of diet amongst the islanders of tropical Polynesia. It is to them –

"That tree which in unfailing stores
The staff of life spontaneous pours,
And to those southern islands yields
The produce of our labour'd fields."

The natives are remarkably fond of it, and it appears to be very wholesome and nourishing, as a perceptible improvement is often observed in the appearance of the people a few weeks after the bread-fruit season has commenced. There are upwards of thirty varieties of this noble tree, all of which have distinct native appellations. It grows in Tahiti, the Sandwich Islands, the Marquesas, the Samoas, the Figis, the New Hebrides, and, in fact, in most of the larger of the tropical islands, where it delights in rich, moist, sheltered situations. The refreshing green of its foliage, the large and singular-looking fruits that hang from its branches, together with the pleasant shade it affords, all combine to render the bread-fruit one of the most attractive trees to those who visit Polynesia. It attains a height of from fifty to sixty feet, and measures about six feet in circumference.

For the chiefs and persons of distinction the bread fruit is usually cooked three times daily; but the poorer classes seldom dress it more than once, and often re-bake it on the next. Formerly, one method of preparing the bread-fruit was as follows: – the population of a district would assemble and form a large common oven, by digging a pit twenty or thirty feet round, and filling it with firewood and large stones, till the heat became very great. The covering was then removed, and many hundreds of ripe broad-fruits thrown in, with leaves laid over them; the remaining hot stones were placed above them, and the whole covered with leaves and earth. This wholesale mode of baking the fruit has, however, been much discontinued since the introduction of Christianity into the islands, in consequence of the feasting, debauchery, rioting, and kava drinking that invariably followed the opening of one of these ovens.

In the Sandwich Islands the bread-fruit is often eaten green. It is cooked by placing it on the fire, when the outer coat becomes charred, and the inner parts only roast like a potato. When the outer rind is removed it has the appearance of "a beautiful light-coloured smoking loaf." This invaluable tree, besides producing three or four regular crops annually, yields a fine resin, which the natives use to render the seams of their canoes water-tight, and a valuable timber, of which the houses, canoes, and furniture of the people of many of the islands are constructed.

Of the plantain and the banana, which are indi-

THE PLANTAIN: THE YAM.

genous to Polynesia, there appear to be some thirty cultivated varieties, besides nearly twenty wild ones, which are also large and useful, especially the "fehi" or mountain-plantain, which adorns the elevated lands with its broad leaves, and its upright clusters of brilliant orange-coloured fruit. There is one variety with foliage of a dark purple hue, which has a beautiful effect when mingled with the greens and yellows of the surrounding trees.

The "orea," or maiden-plantain, attains the highest perfection, and is truly delicious. The stem is seldom more than twelve feet high; its loaves are magnificent specimens of tropical foliage, being often ten to fifteen feet long, nearly two feet wide, and of the most exquisite green colour. The fruit is about nine inches long, shaped somewhat like a cucumber, but more angular at the sides, and, when ripe, is of a rich yellow colour. From fifty to seventy fruits are often attached to the same stalk. Each plantain produces but one bunch of fruit, and it is then cut down, its place being supplied by the suckers that arise round the root.

The yam and the taro are esculent roots, both of which yield the Polynesians a large supply of food, especially the latter, and the cultivation of them is carried on with much care. The yam is the root of the Diascorea alata, and has somewhat the appearance of an enormous potato. It is nutritive, and of a pleasant taste, and is prepared for food either by baking or boiling. The taro is the root of the Arum esculentum, and may be ranked next to the

bread-fruit as an article of sustenance amongst the islanders. They bake the roots in native ovens, and then beat them into a paste, which they call 'poe.' This is eaten by thrusting the forefinger of the right hand into the mass, and securing as much as will adhere to it, passing it to the mouth with a rapid evolution.

The South Sea arrowroot, which forms an article of commerce amongst the more civilized islands, is prepared from the root of a plant called Tacca pinnalifida, which is indigenous to the soil. The root is first beaten to a pulp, and, after being subjected to frequent washings, is exposed to the sun to dry. The natives make a kind of bread of this arrowroot, which is very agreeable, and is chiefly used at feasts and other seasons of festivity.

Ill New Zealand the kumera, or sweet potato, is cultivated. The natives bestow great care upon their kumera plantations, and the roots form an esteemed article of diet with the chiefs on public occasions. It is the Convolvulus battata, a plant indigenous to Mexico and the Sandwich Islands, and which, according to the traditions of the New Zealanders, was brought by their ancestors when they arrived in three canoes from the eastward.

Amongst the poisonous trees in Figi, that most dreaded by the natives is the "kau karo," or itch-wood (Onocarpus vitiensis). This tree when fully developed is about sixty feet high, bearing large oblong leaves, and a very curious corky fruit, something like a walnut. On a drop of the juice of the "kau karo" coming in contact with the skin, it

SMOKING FOR LEPROSY IN FIGI.

instantly produces a pain equal to that caused by a red-hot poker. Mr. Milne, who was botanical collector on board H. M. S. "Herald" when she surveyed the Figian group, says that he met with a nettle tree (a species of Laportea), forty to fifty feet high, which, when touched, causes a burning sensation so severe that the effect is felt for many weeks.

The smoke of the burning wood of the poisonous "sinu" (Excaecaria agallocha) causes intolerable pain. None save those who have experienced the effects of this smoke can form any adequate idea of the agonies endured by those Figians who voluntarily submit themselves to the smoke of the "sinu" for the cure of leprosy. The leper is divested of his clothing, and, being bound hand and foot, is rubbed over with green leaves, and suspended over a small fire, on which a few pieces of the "sinu" are laid. The door is then closed, and the sufferer left in the black and agonizing smoke for some hours, where after shouting with pain he at length faints away. When smoked enough, he is removed, the slime scraped from his body, and gashes cut into the skin to cause the blood to flow freely. In some cases of smoking lepers death is the result, whilst others end in a speedy and lasting cure from this loathsome disease.

The Aleurites triloba or candle-nut tree grows in abundance on the declivities of hills and in ravines in the Sandwich and other islands of the Pacific, the whiteness of its foliage rendering it a conspicuous object. This is occasioned by a fine white powder on the upper surface of the leaf, which can

be readily removed by the finger; the under surface of the leaf is of a dark-green colour. It attains a height of about thirty feet, bearing small white flowers in erect clusters, and a small globular fruit, which is rough externally. The nut of this tree was the principal substitute for candles amongst the islanders previous to the introduction of sperm oil amongst them by the whalers. It is full of a rich oil, and after being slightly baked, is formed into torches by means of stringing thirty or forty nuts together on a rush, and then enclosing them in the leaves of the "ti" tree. After being lighted, before one nut is consumed, the flame extends to the oil of the one below; and, as the blaze expires, the shell of the exhausted nut is struck off and falls to the ground, and so on, until the entire torch is burnt out. These nuts are also agreeable as an article of food, and possess a flavour much like the Brazil nut. In the Admiralty Islands the natives remove the outer shells, and form a sort of cake of the nuts, which are compressed into long masses, wrapped in leaves, and tightly bound round with the stems of some climbing plant. These packages will keep for a long time, and are more convenient to the natives on their journeys than the loose nuts. The toa, or drooping casuarina (C equisetifolia), may be seen in many of the islands, growing in clumps about the villages, or native burying-places, for which latter its mournful character and sombre shade render it peculiarly suitable. Formerly the toa was regarded as sacred, and planted in groves round the "morais" of Tahiti. The ruins of some

MANUFACTURE OF TAPPA CLOTH.

of these places still exist, amidst the shade of the old trees – spots which, before the introduction of Christianity, were the scenes of human sacrifices, and all the horrible and degrading ceremonies of a pagan faith.

The tappa cloth, so generally used as an article of clothing in the central Pacific, is manufactured from the inner bark of the paper-mulberry tree (Broussonetia papyrifera.) This bark is taken off the trunk in a single piece by a longitudinal incision from one end of the trunk to the other; it is scraped, spread out, rolled, and flattened, and beaten with little wooden mallets, which are four-sided; one side being smooth, the second coarsely grooved, the third more finely ridged, and the fourth checked in squares or diamonds. Thus the pattern may be varied, and cloth produced either smooth, striped like dimity, finely corded, or with a small check like diaper. The thickness of the tappa also varies, some being as stout as coarse brown paper or even morocco leather, whilst other kinds are produced as delicate and transparent as the finest gauze. Their sleeping-cloths are made of ten sheets of the stouter sort of tappa fastened together, and are as large as a good-sized blanket. Twenty yards of fine cloth are required by a Tahitian woman to make one dress, which is worn from the waist downwards.

The leaves of the pandanus, or screw-pine, are used for manufacturing a very large kind of floor mats, sometimes twenty yards square, which are plaited almost as fine as Leghorn straw. Sometimes these are dyed of various colours, and bordered by a rich fringe.

The odoriferous nuts of this singular and useful tree are manufactured into necklaces and worn on festive occasions.

The Phormium tenax, or New Zealand flax, is the most useful plant that country affords. To the natives it is invaluable, serving them instead of hemp and flax, and excelling in strength and durability all other kinds of fibrous material. There are two varieties of this plant, one having its long flag-like leaves striped with yellow, as in the ribbon-grass. It occurs abundantly in all parts of New Zealand, but flourishes best in moist localities, and near the banks of rivers. From its cluster of long leaves, which grow to a height of five or six feet, there rises a tall flower-stalk bearing numerous rows of yellowish or dark-red blossoms. Of the leaves of the phormium, with very little preparation, the natives make all their common garments, as well as their strings, lines, and cordage of every description, which are so much stronger than anything we can fabricate with hemp, as not to bear comparison. By another process they draw from the plant long slender fibres, shining like silk, and white as snow, and of these they manufacture their finest articles of dress, called "kaitaka," dyeing their borders black and red in various angular patterns, with the juices of the "tanekaha" and the "hinau" tree. The silky fibre is separated from the leaf by the New Zealand women in the following manner: the apex is held between the toes; a transverse section is then made through the succulent matter at that end with a common mussel shell, which is inserted between that substance and

NEW ZEALAND FLAX AND FERNS.

the fibre, and readily effects its separation by drawing the shell through the whole length of the leaf. Simple as this native method appears to be, still no machinery has yet been invented which can successfully prepare this valuable production for the market. In the year 1881, 1062 tons of flax prepared by the natives was exported to England via Sydney; since which period the quantity has annually decreased. The Phormium tenax also grows indigenously in Norfolk Island and the Chatham Islands, and has been introduced into France, where it flourishes admirably.

The Polynesian islands abound in beautiful ferns. Amongst the most remarkable of these are the lofty tree-ferns of New Zealand, the Cyathea dealbata, which attains a height of forty feet, the Cyathea medullaris, the Dicksonia squamosa, and the Mahrattia elegans. Dr. Bennett says, "I accompanied a native to a place where I could see the tree-ferns growing. After passing through a dense forest, annoyed by the 'tataramoa,' or New Zealand bramble, and stumbling over the lianas, or supple-jacks, which trailed upon the ground, we descended a hill covered with exuberant vegetation, and shaded by enormous trees; we then came to a marshy spot, luxuriant in verdure, where the magnificent tree-ferns rose in groups before us. Solitude reigned, disturbed only by the low murmurings of a silvery rivulet, that meandered through the mossy dell below." These ferns were probably the Mahrattia elegans and Dicksonia squamosa. "The one," says Dr. Bennett, "is remarkable from the large size of the spiral stipes and the

enormous extent of its fronds: the trunk, stipes, and central stalks of the fronds are of a shining black colour; the fronds themselves are of the most delicate green, and their height from sixteen to eighteen feet. The other has the leaflets smaller, whilst the stalk and under surface of the fronds are yellow."

The sugar-cane, and nearly all the edible fruits and vegetables of other warm climates, are found to thrive wonderfully throughout tropical Polynesia, and have, in some of the islands, been extensively cultivated. The orange, lemon, shaddock, lime, citron, tamarind, pomegranate, custard-apple, guava, mango, fig, and mulberry, besides the coffee-tree, cotton, tobacco, and indigo plants, all grow luxuriantly, though few of them are indigenous to the soil. In the Sandwich Islands the sugar-cane grows spontaneously, and perhaps comes to greater perfection there than in any other part of the globe. The natives on their journeys carry pieces of the cane with them, which furnish a sweet and nourishing juice, appeasing at once both hunger and thirst. They have latterly been taught to extract the juice, and by boiling it they prepare a very excellent sugar.

By a diversity of combinations of their various indigenous fruits and vegetables the South Sea Islanders prepare several excellent kinds of food, which may be termed the confectionery or "made-dishes" of Polynesia. With ripe bread-fruit and plantain mixed they form "pepe," which, when baked, resembles soft gingerbread. A composition of arrowroot and grated cocoa-nut kernel is called

KAVA-DRINKING.

"taota;" and of arrowroot and plantain they make a number of sweet puddings, which are folded in leaves and baked in the native ovens. They also unhappily possess the art of extracting from the saccharine root of the ti tree (Dracaena terminalis) a spirituous and highly intoxicating liquor, which they call "kava" or "ava." This inebriating fluid they use in great quantities, especially on festive occasions. Whole districts frequently unite in erecting what might be called a public still. A rude fragment of rock, excavated below to contain a fire, and surmounted by the end of a large hollow tree in which the macerated roots of the ti are placed, compose the chief materials; whilst a bamboo-cane, placed in a trough of cold water, condenses the distilled vapour, which flows into a calabash set below to receive it.

The roots and stems of a kind of pepper (Piper methysticum) are also extensively distilled in many of the islands for the purpose of producing a kind of "kava." This latter spirit is not, however, equal to that made from the "ti," and has so nauseous a flavour that the natives usually swallow a draught of water after the intoxicating dose to remove its unpleasant taste and burning effects. The ceremony of "kava-drinking," formerly so popular amongst the principal groups of the Pacific, has latterly almost fallen into disuse, and, through the efforts of the missionaries, has been quite abolished in many of the islands. On such occasions, the king or chief would sit in state, surrounded by his principal men, or by visitors of distinction, when a portion of the kava root was handed round to each person present,

who, after masticating it, placed it in a large wooden bowl with four legs, which stood in front of the chief. Water being gradually added, and the roots well squeezed and worked about with the hands, the beverage was then strained through a piece of fine fibrous cloth, and the process completed. During the preparation of the bowl, other persons were engaged in making small drinking cups from the leaf of the plantain, which, on being filled, were handed round to the guests, the chief calling out "the kava is in the cup." During the drinking, and throughout the whole ceremony, the strictest silence is maintained by the visitors, who frequently prolong the festival for a considerable time, fresh bowls of kava being manufactured in turn by the most important guests.

The inhabitants of the Louisiade, New Guinea, the Admiralty, and the Solomon Islands, &c., chew the betel-nut, the fruit of the Areca catechu, which is used by them instead of the pepper-betel leaf, extensively employed throughout the Indian Archipelago. It has the effect of discolouring the teeth and imparting a bloody appearance to the saliva. In the Solomon Islands each native carries his chewing materials in a small basket, the lime, in fine powder, being contained in a long gourd with a stopper, which is frequently ornamented at the top with the carved figure of a man, having attached to it a long spatula of tortoise-shell, like a paper-knife, which is used to convey the lime to the tongue and lips.

Amongst the botanical productions of New Guinea

FLOWERING SHRUBS.

and the islands of the Louisiade, the famous pitcher-plant (Nepenthes distillatoria) deserves mention. It grows abundantly amongst the tall grasses on the skirts of the jungle, and the pitchers contain a small quantity of limpid sweetish fluid, with small insects floating on its surface.

In conclusion, we will glance hastily at a few of the more prominent of the flowering shrubs and smaller plants of Polynesia. In the New Zealand forests the blossoms of the clematis and the passionflower enliven the sombre foliage of the larger trees, and the sweet-scented hoya fills the air with its fragrance. Of this shrub, in the woods near Waipa, Mr. Angas remarks: "On entering the forests again, a delicious fragrance, like that of hyacinth and jessamine mingled, filled the humid atmosphere with its perfume. It arose from the petals of a straggling, climbing sort of shrub, with bright-green glossy leaves, resembling those of the nutmeg tree, and a profusion of rich blossoms, looking as though they were formed of wax, which hung in clusters of trumpet-shaped bells, and were of every shade of colour, from pinkish white to the deepest crimson. The natives call this plant 'horopito.'" The fuchsia is indigenous in New Zealand, the woods in many places being adorned with an undergrowth of this elegant shrub. In its wild state it bears two distinct sets of flowers – one green and purple, the other purple and red; whilst the pollen on the anthers of the green petals is of the most vivid cobalt-blue colour. Along the banks of the rivers, the "kowai," or "native laburnum," displays its pro-

fusion of golden blossom. In the New Hebrides several species of convolvulus twine over the dense thickets, as does the Hoya viridiflora with its pale green flowers; whilst the mountain glens of Figi teem with beautiful plants, the odours of whose blossoms defy description.

The native females of the Sandwich Islands use a variety of flowers for making their "leis," or head-wreaths; one of these flowers is a species of Sida, which is cultivated to produce double blossoms. Those plants which afford orange or yellow colours are preferred. The large and handsome white Mexican poppy is also indigenous in the Sandwich Islands.

Many of the mosses and liver-mosses of New Zealand are very interesting: amongst the lichens are the beautiful Cenomyce retispora, resembling bunches of white cellular coral; and a cup-moss, the edges of which are tipped with brilliant scarlet. Some of the large fungi growing from the trunks of the trees, near the roots, are so broad and strong as to form capital seats; and at night luminous toadstools sparkle like stars in every direction amongst the damp forests. There is also in New Zealand a very curious fungus which is parasitical on a caterpillar. It is found at the roots of the "rata" trees, and is called Sphaeria Robertsii, being the "hotete" of the natives.

CHAPTER IV. NATURAL HISTORY.

CHAPTER IV.

NATURAL HISTORY. – MAMMALS, BIRDS, REPTILES, FISHES, INSECTS, MOLLUSKS, ETC.

THE NOTORNIS.

Mammals. – Although the pig, the dog, the goat, and, amongst some of the more civilized islands, the horse, the ox, the ass, the sheep, and the domestic cat have been introduced at various times

by Europeans into Polynesia, still the indigenous mammals are very few in number. In New Guinea is found the Sus papuensis, a small species of wild hog, of a brown colour, which lives in the woods. Amongst the lesser islands along the coast they may frequently be seen swimming from one bay to another, in single file, their snouts resting on each other's hind-quarters. At such times they are easily captured by the natives in their canoes.

Although, as yet, we know but little of the natural history of New Guinea, three species of kangaroos have been discovered there; two of these belong to the remarkable arboreal genus Dendrolagus, which inhabits trees, and but rarely approaches the ground; whilst the third is a small terrestrial kangaroo, of the genus Dorcopsis. If we except several species of Phalangister or opossum, and a few of the allied genus discus, which are inhabitants of the dense forests, no other land animals than the above, but bats and rats, have hitherto been observed on the coast of Papua.

In the interior of New Zealand there exists a small species of wild dog, but this is probably descended from a peculiar breed introduced by the Spaniards, or even by the New Zealanders themselves, when they first peopled the country. Of this animal Dr. Dieffenbach says, "The dog of the natives is not the Australian dingo, but a much smaller variety, resembling the jackal, and of a dirty yellowish colour. It is now rarely met with. A native dog of New Zealand is not a sufficiently powerful creature to do harm to domestic animals, as is the

DOGS: CATS: RATS.

case with the introduced and mongrel dogs. In want of better sport, they hunt young birds, and to this cause may be ascribed the scarcity of many of the indigenous birds."

Of the dogs at Brierly Island, in the Louisiade, Mr. MacGillivray remarks, "They are long-bodied, short-legged, and prick-eared, with sharp snout, and long tail slightly bushy, but tapering to a point. They do not bark, but have the long melancholy howl of the dingo or wild dog of Australia." In the Samoas, or Navigator's Islands, there is also a wild dog found in the mountains. It is a small animal, of a dark, dirty grey, or lead colour, with little or no hair, and large, erect ears.

The common cat is at present found in a wild state in the forests of New Zealand, and is another cause of the extermination of indigenous birds. It is remarkable that these wild cats soon resume the streaky grey colour of their original stock – the wild cat of northern Europe.

The little Indian rat occurs abundantly over all the Papuan Islands, dwelling in hollow logs and holes, and climbing bushes and low trees like a squirrel. Indeed, throughout most of the Polynesian islands, rats appear to be very numerous, and in some places are used as food by the natives.

In New Zealand there exists a frugivorous native rat, called "kiore maori" by the aborigines, which they distinguish from the European species, which is introduced, and called "kiore pakeha," or the stranger rat. In former times they used the "kiore maori" for food in large numbers, but latterly it

has become very scarce, owing to the warfare carried on against it by the European rat. It is a favourite theme with the New Zealanders to speculate on their own extermination by the Europeans, in the same manner as the stranger rat has superseded their native one.

In the mangrove forests of Figi there roost immense numbers of a very large species of bat (Notopteris Macdonaldii). These animals measure nearly a yard across, between the extreme points of their wings. At the Navigator's Islands, the same or a very nearly allied species of bat, is a great pet with the natives of that group, who domesticate these animals about their dwellings. At Savage Island the vampire bats are esteemed by the inhabitants as a delicate article of food.

Amongst the marine animals that inhabit the coasts of New Zealand and the Auckland and Chatham Islands, may be mentioned several species of seals. The sea-lion is found on the west coast of the Middle Island of New Zealand; where also the fur-seal of commerce (probably the sea-bear) was formerly hunted in great numbers; now, owing to the exterminating warfare so long carried on, these animals are but rarely met with, only straggling individuals being seen occasionally.

The wide waters of the Pacific are the head-quarters of the gigantic sperm-whale, which is found ranging from New Zealand to Kamtschatka. It is equally at home in the blue tropical seas beneath the equator, as it is in the stormy regions nearer the poles. Many other species of whales, as well as of

THE DINORNIS AND THE PALAPTERYX.

grampus and dolphin, also abound in the Pacific Ocean.

Birds. – Foremost amongst the bird fauna of Polynesia must be noticed that remarkable group of gigantic wingless birds, allied to the cassowary, and now probably extinct, of which the islands of New Zealand were once the head-quarters. It is now a little more than five-and-twenty years ago since the first bones of the "moa," as the natives styled these huge birds generally, were discovered. Since that period the semi-fossilized, and, in some instances, comparatively recent remains of no less than ten species of the "moa" have been found; all of which have been carefully examined and described by Professor Owen, who resolves them into two genera, Dinornis and Palapteryx. In the former genus the professor includes eight species, and in the latter two. In their general aspect, characters, and habits, it is supposed that these birds resembled much more nearly the cassowary tribe, than they did the ostrich or the emeu. To give some idea of the stature of these birds, as ascertained from their skeletons, it may be mentioned that the largest species of "moa," the Dinornis giganteus, stood, when erect, ten feet six inches in height, whilst the D. dromaeoides and D. elephantopus, both exceeded five feet. Of the smaller species, the D. didiformis stood four feet high; whilst the Palapteryx struthioides attained the altitude of near seven feet.

Closely allied in structure to these great birds, remains of a very ancient fauna, now all but disappeared, there still exists in New Zealand a smaller but very

remarkable genus of wingless birds, called Apteryx, of which three species have been described. These curious birds are about the size of a domestic fowl, with brown or grey plumage, according to the species, remarkably powerful legs and feet, and long slender beaks, which they introduce into the ground in search of grubs and worms. Like many of the New Zealand birds the apteryx is nocturnal in its habits, dwelling beneath extensive beds of fern, where it conceals itself during the day. The largest species, the "fireman" of the whalers, is from the Middle Island, and is considerably larger than the other two. The apteryx forms its nest in a burrow in the earth, and lays an egg of enormous size, in proportion to that of the bird itself.

From the fact that some of the bones of the "moa" have been discovered still containing the oily matter, and that even bunches of its feathers were not long since in the possession of some of the old chiefs as ornaments, coupled with the detailed accounts the natives themselves give us of these birds, it appears evident that but a comparatively short period has elapsed since the "moas" ceased to exist; and, indeed, it is not quite certain whether solitary individuals of one or more of the smaller species of Dinornis may not yet be discovered in a living state amongst the wild fastnesses of the great snowy chain of mountains in the Middle Island. Near Roturua the natives point out the spot where they killed the last "moa;" and several tolerably-well authenticated stories have been afloat from time to time, of whalers and sealers, and, more

THE DINORNIS OR "MOA."

recently, of gold diggers in the Middle Island having obtained glimpses of gigantic birds. One fact, however, seems pretty certain, and that is the existence in abundance of the various species of Dinornis and its allies all over New Zealand, at the period when the Polynesian inhabitants first arrived; and that for a long time they were killed by them for food, until at last such bulky, and probably stupid birds, easily falling a prey to the Maories, they were eventually exterminated. According to the traditions of the New Zealanders, the largest species of "moa" was of a red colour. Fragments of enormous eggs have from time to time been found in various parts of New Zealand; and, very recently, an entire egg, supposed to belong to the Dinornis ingens, of Owen, has been discovered at the Kaikora Mountains, in the Middle Island. It appears that a man, in digging the foundation for a hut, when on the side of a small mound, suddenly came upon the egg in question, together with a human skeleton. The body had evidently been buried in a sitting posture, and the egg must have been placed in the hands, as the arms were extended in such a manner as to bring it immediately opposite to the mouth of the deceased. This was probably done in accordance with the ancient custom of supplying the dead with food. Between the legs of the skeleton were found numerous weapons and implements of green jade. The egg itself is about ten inches in length, and seven in breadth, the shell being of a dirty brownish colour, and rather thicker than a shilling.

That one, if not more, species of cassowary are dwellers in New Guinea, we may infer from the fact of their feathers having been found in the native houses, and their canoes being also decorated with them. In the island of New Britain, the existence of a fine species of cassowary (Casuarius Bennetti, or "mooruk" of the natives) has recently been made known. It is the largest bird now inhabiting any part of Polynesia, as far as our present knowledge extends. Not quite so tall as the cassowary of the East Indian Archipelago, it is nevertheless more robust, having very powerful legs and feet. It stands about four feet in height. The plumage is composed of coarse hair-like feathers, nearly black, whilst the naked skin on the neck is of a smalt-blue colour. The head is adorned with a horny helmet of peculiar shape. The eggs are five and a half inches long, corrugated, and of a pale-green colour. Through the exertions of Dr. Bennett, of Sydney, the Zoological Society of London already possesses full-grown living specimens of the "mooruk." Mr. Gould tells us, that "Professor Owen considers this new bird and the cassowary (C. galeatus) to be the most nearly allied living types of his genus Palapteryx; and, if this opinion be correct, we may infer that the habits and economy, as well as the kind of plumage, and the character of country inhabited by the extinct birds, were very similar. I have always considered the cassowary to belong to a totally distinct group to the ostriches, which are adapted for roaming over vast plains and open country during the day time, and to feed upon berries,

THE "NOTORNIS MANTELLI."

fruits, mollusks, and small animals generally; while the cassowary, the mooruk, and the apteryx are partially or wholly nocturnal, living reclusely in the gullies and humid parts of dense forests, feeding upon the roots of ferns and other plants peculiar to such situations. The hair-like character of their feathers bespeaks these habits and mode of life, as much as the plumes of the ostriches do their adaptation for open plains and savannahs."

Amongst the other extraordinary birds that still exist in New Zealand, constituting the remnants of a nearly extinct fauna, we may mention the Notornis Mantelli, of Owen, a single living example of which was taken a few years ago by some sealers in Dusky Bay. This bird had hitherto only been found in a fossil state, and the discovery of a living specimen of a genus once contemporary with the colossal "moa," goes far to prove that the final extinction of those great wingless birds took place at no very distant period, and probably long after the advent of the Maori people in New Zealand. The notornis, owing to the feeble nature of its wings, is incapable of flight, but runs with great swiftness amongst the fern. It is a heavy, stout-looking bird, about the size of a goose, having much the aspect of a gigantic water-hen. Both its beak and feet are large and strong, and of a bright red colour: the general plumage is a glossy bronze green, with the head and belly purplish black, and the tail coverts snow white.

Another of the more important of the terrestrial birds of New Zealand which may also be mentioned,

is the Ocydromus Australis, or "weka-weka" of the natives, a large species of rail, or wood-hen, with short wings, which dwells amongst the fern and underwood. Specimens of this interesting bird may be now seen alive in the gardens of the Zoological Society. Mr. H. Pease informs us that there is a wingless bird, which the natives call "moho," still existing in Hawaii, one of the Sandwich Islands, but it is now rapidly becoming extinct, having been killed off by the dogs and cats within late years.

Amongst the strange ornithological forms that occur in New Zealand is a very remarkable bird of the owl tribe, called the "wekau" by the natives. It is rather larger than the ordinary screech-owl, spotted with chestnut and black, and has long legs, and small green-coloured feet. The head is very small, and the beak like that of a hawk, thus imparting somewhat of an accipitrine character to this anomalous owl. It is found in the Middle Island, where its habits are, from its conformation, no doubt terrestrial. Its scientific name is Sceloglaux albifacies. Owls abound at the Navigator's Islands, and occur also in the Sandwich Islands, but are not known in the Society Islands and the other groups to the eastward. The largest species of Podargus (a genus of goat-suckers, of which Australia is the head-quarters) is found in New Guinea; it is upwards of two feet in length, handsomely mottled, and has a long forked tail. It is the P. papuensis of Quoy and Gaimard. Another beautiful crested podargus is also to be met with in New Guinea.

THE "KAKAPO," OR NIGHT PARROT.

Prominent amongst the numerous members of the parrot tribe that enliven the New Guinea forests may be mentioned the large salmon and sulphur-crested white cockatoos, and the great black palm cockatoo (Microglossus aterrimus), a noble bird with a long crest of sharp feathers, which frequents the tops of the tallest palm trees, and feeds upon their tender central shoots.

In the woods of New Zealand several small species of green parroquets occur. The forests of New Guinea, the Solomon, the Admiralty, and other adjacent islands, abound with brilliant species of lories of the most gorgeous colours; whilst other species of the parrot family are to be met with in the Figi Islands and various groups more to the eastward. The extraordinary Strigops habroptilus, or "kakapo" of the natives, is a large green nocturnal parrot, formerly abundant in New Zealand, but now extinct everywhere excepting on the south-west coast of the Middle Island, where it was met with by Dr. Lyall during the exploration of that coast in H. M. S. "Acheron." The "kakapo" lives in communities in holes under the roots of trees, or beneath shelving rocks, and is never seen during the day. At night it comes out to feed, nibbling the grass and roots like a rabbit. It is about a foot and a half long, and of a metallic sort of green colour, variegated with markings of black and yellow.

A singular group of parrots, belonging to the genus Nestor, also evidently the remnants of an ancient fauna, are peculiar to New Zealand and the adjacent islands. Of four species described and figured

by Mr. Gould in his great work, one, the Philip Island nestor, is already extinct within the last few years; and two of the others are extremely rare. The "kaka," or Nestor hypopolius, is still comparatively common, and is frequently domesticated by the natives, who feed these birds on potatoes, and fasten them by means of flax cords to perches about their houses. The "kaka" is remarkable for the form of the beak, the upper mandible of which is very long, and produced in a hooked shape. Its colour also is singular, being composed of browns and greys, with red about the vent and tail-coverts. In size it exceeds that of the common grey parrot, so abundant in captivity in this country.

Fruit pigeons, of the genus Carpophaga, and many species of the lovely pink-headed doves (Ptilinopas), are widely distributed amongst the islands of the Pacific; indeed very group appears to have one or more representatives of these genera. Some of the latter from the Admiralty and Solomon Islands are exceedingly beautiful: nearly all the species have the crown of the head of a bright rose or crimson colour, the rest of the plumage being green, purple, white, orange, and yellow. The Carpophaga oceanica, or nutmeg pigeon, is abundant in the groves of the Louisiade; and another very handsome species, the C. Novae Zealandiae, inhabits the forests of New Zealand. In the Navigator's Islands the fruit pigeons are tamed by the natives. Another beautiful fruit pigeon is the C. puella of New Guinea: its plumage is golden green, with a rich purple breast, grey head, and the under wing and tail coverts deep orange yellow.

THE DIDUNCULUS, OR TOOTH-BILLED PIGEON.

The great crowned pigeon (Lophyrus coronatus) inhabits New Guinea. It is the largest of the genus, being almost as big as a turkey; and, like all the pigeon tribe, is delicious eating. It is of a fine bluish slate colour, having on its head an elegant arched crown of feathers.

We must also mention that peculiar and now almost extinct bird, the Didunculus strigirostris, or tooth-billed pigeon, of the Samoas. In the contour of the bill, the form and position of the nostrils, and several other characters, this bird differs from any other living species known; and, although of small size, it approaches nearest in all its characters to the extinct dodo, and, like it, combines the character of a rapacious bird with that of the harmless pigeon. The Didunculus "may therefore be regarded," says Dr. Bennett, "as the nearest living ally of the now extinct dodo."

The zoology of New Guinea and its neighbouring islands has long been the astonishment and delight of the naturalist; whilst the surpassing splendour of its birds and insects cannot fail to awaken admiration even amongst the most ordinary observers. These regions may truly be styled the elysium of the ornithologist; for they afford to the ravished eye forms of such exquisite beauty that the imagination cannot conceive creatures more gorgeous or more lovely. Here, indeed, are "birds of gold and of every coloured gem;" for in these rich lands are found the entire family of paradise birds, so called from the wonderful plumes and metallic splendour of colours nature has lavished upon them.

Formerly the most absurd fables were current respecting these magnificent specimens of the feathered tribes, viz., that they passed the whole of their existence in sailing in the air, the dew of heaven being their only food; that they were destitute of legs; that they never took rest, except by suspending themselves from the branches of trees by the shafts of the two elongated feathers which form a characteristic of this beautiful race, and that they never touched the earth till the moment of their death. From such absurdities the researches of modern naturalists have set the world free; these birds being found to possess legs of considerable size and strength. They congregate in large flocks amidst the aromatic groves and woods of Papua, where the natives themselves, not insensible to their charms, give them the appellation of "God's birds."

Sonnerat tells us that "the bodies of the dead birds of paradise serve as ornaments for the chiefs, who wear them on their heads by way of 'aigrette.' In preparing the skins they always cut off the legs, and the Dutch, who trade for them, buy them in this condition, and carry them to Persia, Surat, and the Indies, where they sell them excessively dear to the rich inhabitants, who use them to adorn their turbans."

Of the dozen or more species of paradise birds already described by naturalists, we can only give a brief notice of a few. The most common is the great emerald bird of paradise (P. apoda); it is about the size of a thrush, with the head of a golden colour, the throat of the richest metallic green,

BIRDS OF PARADISE.

and the remainder of the body chestnut and purple. From the upper part of each side of the body, beneath the wings, there proceeds a vast quantity of extremely long, loose, broad, floating plumes, of the most delicate texture, and of a bright yellow or lemon colour; whilst from the tail spring a pair of naked shafts, considerably exceeding in length the long loose plumes at the sides.

The king bird of paradise (Cicinnurus regia) is the smallest of the group. Its general plumage is of an intense purple-red, whilst across the breast runs a broad zone of green and gold, separated from the red above by a band of yellow; below this the body is white. Beneath the wings are a set of projecting feathers tipped with golden green and white; and from the middle of the tail extend two very long naked shafts, each terminating in a flat spiral web of an emerald green colour.

The six-shafted bird of paradise (P. sex-setacea) is of a beautiful deep velvety black, except the breast, which is golden green, changing in the light to every colour of the rainbow: on each side of the head are three long feathers with naked shafts tipped with oval plumes of a metallic violet-purple.

The superb bird of paradise (Lophorina superba) is a wonderful creature. The closely-imbricated feathers on its throat and breast are bronzed green with corruscations of violet; whilst the crest, the long feathers proceeding from the side of the neck and looking like a second pair of wings, together with the brilliant emerald shield of projecting plumes on its breast, altogether render any description of it

inadequate to convey even a faint idea of this "child of the sun."

Almost as gorgeously arrayed in velvet and gold as the birds of paradise are the rifle birds, one species of which, the Ptiloris magnifica, inhabits the dense forests of New Guinea. Its plumage is velvety black, with a gorget of shining metallic green on the throat and breast, terminating in a zone of scarlet and yellow. During flight the rifle bird emits a peculiar noise, not unlike the rustling of new stiff silk, which is caused by the action of the wings, and may be heard on a still day at a distance of a hundred yards.

Of the many beautiful kingfishers of New Guinea and the adjacent groups of islands, perhaps those of the genus Tanysiptera are the most elegant. Orange, white, and blue, with long snowy shafts extending from the tail, they at once attract the eye by the combined loveliness of form and colour.

Several species of the genus Aplonis inhabit New Guinea, New Ireland, the Louisiade, the Navigators, and the Figis. They are birds of graceful form, with a shining metallic plumage, and are about the size of a thrush.

The crow-shrikes (Manucodia) are singular-looking and elegant birds, with their glossy black plumage shot with metallic greens and purples, and long ear-like feathers projecting from the crown of the head on either side. They inhabit the forests of New Guinea, and the Admiralty and Solomon Isles.

The Buceros plicatus, or Papuan hornbill; the Ardea heliosyla, or tiger bittern, with its beautiful

MOUND-BUILDING BIRDS.

plumage, banded all over with brown on a light ground; and several species of mound-building birds, amongst which are the Megapodius Duperreyi, and the Talegalla Cuvieri, are also inhabitants of New Guinea. Besides these are many superb flycatchers and honey-suckers, with a great variety of other birds too numerous to mention.

Although two genera of mound-building birds, viz., Talegalla and Leipoa, appear to be confined, the first to Australia and New Guinea, and the latter to Australia only, yet it would seem that another genus, Megapodius, has a wider range, and includes several species which are scattered over the Pacific islands. In the singular volcanic island of Niua-Foou, isolated half way between the Figis and the Samoas, a species of Megapodius presents itself. It was obtained there by Mr. W. T. Pritchard, after whom it has been named. It lives in scrubs in the centre of the island, about the margin of the lake filling the extinct central crater to which we have alluded in a previous chapter. Their mounds are formed of a sulphurous-looking sand, and the eggs deposited from one to two feet beneath the surface. It is only by permission of the chief of the island that the eggs can be procured. The natives informed Mr. Pritchard that the bird "laid two hundred eggs, and piled them one above another in the shape of a pyramid, the last egg forming the apex!"

A very singular bird, the "kagu" (Rhinochetus jubatus), is found in New Caledonia. It is something like a small heron, with a long crest and

grey plumage, but its habits and mode of action are totally distinct from the heron tribe. It is a most amusing and frolicksome creature, erecting its crest, spreading out its wings, and pursuing other birds, evidently for the fun of seeing them frightened. Sometimes it will seize the end of its wing or tail in its beak, and spin round like a harlequin; at others it will stick its beak into the earth, kick its legs in the air, and tumble about as if in a fit. Two fine specimens of this bird, sent home by Dr. Bennett, have lately been added to the collection of the Zoological Society in the Regent's Park, where their evolutions are a source of amusement to all who watch them.

Three distinct species of blackbird (Merula) are found in the western Pacific; one in New Caledonia, one in Norfolk Island, and one in Lord Howe's Island. Though differing somewhat in colour from their European allies, they all possess the same kind of full, lustrous eye, and yellow legs and beak.

The "huia" (Neomorpha Gouldii) is an elegant bird from New Zealand, about the size of a crow, with glossy black plumage, the tail feathers being tipped with white. The beak of the male is straight and pointed, whilst that of the female is long and curved; both have orange-coloured wattles at the base of the mandibles. The tail feathers of the "huia" are held in great estimation by the New Zealanders, being worn in the hair by the chiefs; and beautifully carved boxes are made in which to keep them. Another interesting bird from the

THE PARSON BIRD: BIRDS OF SONG.

same country is the Anthocaera concinnata, or parson bird, the "tui" of the natives. This bird derives its name from two little tufts of white feathers under the throat, which contrast with its otherwise shiny black plumage; it is a very lively and amusing bird in captivity, and rivals the famous mocking-bird in its powers of imitation and song.

Many of the islands in the Pacific can boast of sweet songsters amongst the loveliness of their woods and groves; and the melody of the little warblers that pour out their notes amidst the stillness of a New Zealand forest has delighted many a traveller in that country. When the Spaniards discovered the island of Espiritu Santo in the New Hebrides, more than two hundred and fifty years ago, "they found the banks of the rivers covered with odoriferous flowers and plants, particularly orange flowers and sweet bazil, the perfumes of which were wafted to the ships by the morning and evening breezes; and at the early dawn was heard, from the neighbouring woods, the mixed melody of many different kinds of birds, some in appearance like nightingales, blackbirds, larks, and goldfinches."

In the higher latitudes of the South Pacific, various species of albatross and petrel are eternally skimming the ocean in those cold and stormy regions; whilst within the tropics, boobies, tropic-birds, and frigate-birds, are equally numerous, especially in the vicinity of land.

The frigate-bird, or man-of-war hawk (Tachypetes Palmerstoni), is very numerous in the Society

Islands, and is remarkable for its swift and dashing habits. It does not alight on the surface of the sea, being neither able to swim nor dive; but it hovers over the ocean with unwearied assiduity. Sailors affirm that it sleeps upon the wing. Its flight is easy and graceful; sometimes it may be seen balanced in mid air, its wings spread, apparently motionless, its long forked tail expanding and closing with a quick alternate action, and its head inquisitively turned from side to side to inspect the ocean beneath; sometimes it wheels rapidly, or darts to the surface of the water in pursuit of its prey, and at others soars to such a great height that it is lost to sight amidst the clouds of heaven. It builds its nest amidst the leaves of the wild palm on the verdant islets inside the reefs.

The blue heron may be seen on the shores of the lagoon islands, sitting motionless for hours on the low coral rocks; and there also, out on the barrier reefs, amidst the foam of the broken waves, the white reef-bird (Sterna poliocerca) passes its time in search of small fish as they are dashed upon the rocks.

Reptiles. – In the rivers and salt-water estuaries of the muddy shores of southern Papua, as also in New Britain and the adjacent islands, there exists a large and formidable kind of crocodile, the Crocodilus biporcatus, which is also found in the North Australian rivers. In New Guinea its skulls have been found in the native houses. Its average length is from twelve to eighteen feet; and its jaws, armed

GIGANTIC LIZARDS.

with sharp teeth, have a remarkable waving outline, in which it differs from the African species.

Crocodiles are not found as far cast as Figi; but about the beginning of this century a large one made its appearance there, probably having been drifted, thither from the shores of New Guinea, or some of the larger islands to the north-west, where they are numerous. The natives fancied it had come from "bulu" – heaven – and did not succeed in catching it until it had done considerable injury.

Captain Cook mentions a gigantic lizard in New Zealand, which the natives call "tuatera." It is the Hatteria punctata of Gray, and is now nearly extinct, a small island on the east coast, in the Bay of Plenty, being the only spot where it has recently been obtained. Dr. Dieffenbach, who procured a specimen in 1841, says of this creature, "that it was formerly common about the islands; it lived in holes, often in sand-hills near the sea-shore; and the natives killed it for food. Owing to this latter cause, and no doubt also to the introduction of pigs, it is now very scarce; and many, even of the older residents of the country, have never seen it." Very large lizards are found on the mountains in Opolu and Savaii in the Navigator's Islands; and MacGillivray mentions a large lizard, about five feet long, which he saw in one of the islands of the Louisiade, and which he supposed to be the Monitor Gouldii.

A chameleon and four species of lizard are found in Figi. One of these, the Chloroscartes, inhabits trees, and is of a beautiful pale-green colour, having a body about two feet long.

Many species of small lizards inhabit the various Polynesian islands. One of the most beautiful of these is the Naultinus elegans, of New Zealand. It is of a beautiful green colour, ornamented with two rows of pale gold-coloured spots down the sides. Departed spirits are supposed to transfer themselves into this lizard; hence the natives regard it with a certain dread, calling it an "atua" or god.

A large frog (Platymantis vitianus) is common about the swamps in Figi; and many smaller species are met with in the other islands.

The turtle is abundant amongst the islands of the western and central Pacific; and a trade is carried on with the natives for the tortoise-shell these reptiles produce. The New Guinea people construct masks and other singular personal decorations out of tortoise-shell. The eggs of the turtle are a favourite article of food, both with the natives and the traders who frequent these seas.

Three species of turtle inhabit the tropical islands of Polynesia. In Figi the green turtle is called "vonu dina," and that which yields the tortoise-shell "vonu taku;" there is another kind which the natives term "tovonu," said to be from six to ten feet long. The two first kinds are kept by the chiefs in their turtle-ponds. The turtle was formerly held sacred in the Society Islands. A portion of its flesh was offered to the gods, and the rest, cooked with sacred fire, was partaken of by the king and principal men only.

Fortunately, the favoured isles of the Pacific are generally free from all manner of deadly and noxious

SNAKES.

reptiles, but few snakes or serpents having been met with amongst them.

In the larger islands of Figi there are ten kinds of snakes, none of them, however, exceeding six feet in length. Most of these are arboreal, and probably innocuous; whilst some of them are used as food by the natives. In the Navigators also are several small species, beautifully variegated.

It is probable that eventually in New Guinea and the islands of the Admiralty and Solomon groups, other and larger species of snakes may be found to exist. In New Zealand the traveller may walk in safety through the long grass and the thick fern, without that uneasy feeling arising from the dread of treading on a venomous serpent, which pedestrians in Australia frequently experience. Dieffenbach tells a story of an English acclimatizing captain, who tried to introduce the venomous black snakes of New South Wales into New Zealand, but fortunately they all died, and so frustrated his benevolent design. Although enjoying comparative immunity from land serpents, the Pacific islanders frequently encounter sea snakes amongst the coral reefs and central lagoons, which are of a highly poisonous nature. These water serpents have broad flat tails formed for swimming, and are ornamented with the most brilliant colours, disposed in spots or stripes along their bodies. They belong chiefly to the genera Pelamys and Hypotrophis.

As the aboriginal tribes throughout Australia have their tales of the much-dreaded "bunyip" – an hypothetical monster that dwells in the swamps and

rivers – so the New Zealanders have their legends and songs about the terrible "tanniwha," and the slaying of three of these monsters by brave warriors of the olden time, the ancestors of the chiefs of Roturua. These traditions are handed down by the natives with extraordinary minuteness of detail, and bear a close resemblance in many points to our own legend of St. George and the dragon. According to the native story, the "tanniwha" devoured men, women, and children wholesale; it lived in caverns, or at the bottoms of rivers and lakes, was shaped like an enormous lizard of the size of a whale, and had sharp teeth and a flaming tongue. It took three hundred and forty brave men to despatch one of these "tanniwhas;" at length, after a severe conflict, they destroyed him, and he stretched himself out "like a dying grub," and expired. On cutting him open they found "his belly full of bodies of men, women, and children, together with garments of all sorts, and weapons of war innumerable."

Fishes. – Throughout the Pacific sharks of all kinds are numerous. In New Zealand the tiger shark is captured by the natives for the sake of its teeth, which are highly esteemed as ear ornaments; its flesh also forms an important article of diet at their great feasts.

The Figians hold the shark in great dread: of this scourge of the tropical seas there are no less than nine salt-water species, besides several which are found in fresh water, described by Dr. Seemann as inhabiting the Figis alone. He says, "One day we encountered a very large one on the reef, where he

FISHING IN THE FIGIS AND SAMOA.

had been left in a shallow pool by the receding tide. Our boat being near, an axe was fetched to kill him; but no sooner did he catch sight of the weapon than he made off in great haste, moving along over many hundred yards of dry reef like a serpent, without our being able to stop him."

Of the infinite varieties of fish found throughout the Polynesian islands, many are very good eating, and a great part of the food of the natives is derived from this source. They are secured by nets, spears, fish-fences, or by stupefaction by means of intoxicating plants. In the Figis the night is the favourite period for fishing on the reefs; and large parties, chiefly of women, go forth torch in hand at such times, traversing the reefs laid bare by the tide, shouting and laughing as they proceed.

The Rev. J. Williams, in his "Missionary Enterprises," mentions an ingenious method of fishing employed by the people of Samoa. He says, "A number of hollow floats, about eight inches in diameter, and of the same height, were attached to a strong cord, at a short distance from each other. To each of those a line was fastened, about ten inches long, at the end of which was a piece of fishbone, made very sharp at both ends, and suspended by the middle, so that when the fish seized the bait, the bone pierced it in contrary directions, and thus secured the prey. The albicore, bonito, ray, sword-fish, and sharks, are among the larger sea-fish eaten by the natives, in addition to which they have an almost endless variety of rock-fish, which are remarkably sweet and good. Salmon abound in

many of the islands, but these are caught in the salt water. They exactly resemble the English variety in size and shape, but their flesh is white."

There is in Figi a most beautiful fish, about the size of a mullet, and of the finest ultramarine blue colour. It is very frequent about the coral reefs, and a finer sight can scarcely be imagined than flocks of these brilliant creatures playing in the crystal water over what looks like so much mosaic-work.

Amongst the singular forms of fishes to be found about the reefs of the Louisiade, may be mentioned the genus Holocentrum, five kinds of which were procured there by Mr. MacGillivray; one, brilliantly coloured with blue and silver, and the remainder more or less of a bright scarlet hue.

Crustaceans. – Shrimps, prawns, lobsters, and crabs, abound amongst the reefs; some of them are of extraordinary forms, and display exquisite beauty of colouring, vying with the brilliant fishes that sport amongst these gay crustaceans in the coral pools. In the rivers and lakes of the Samoas there are several species of fresh-water prawns and shrimps. In some of the Figi islands there is a very large kind of land crab (probably the Birgos latro). called by the natives "ugavule." It is fierce and strong, and is taken with some difficulty when on the ground, as it throws earth and stones into the face of its pursuers. It climbs the highest cocoa-nut trees, and not only pierces the young nuts, but removes the husk of the old nuts, and breaks the shell, in order to get at the contents. The natives have a clever method of capturing these crabs.

LAND CRABS: SHELLS.

When up a tree, they take a bundle of grass and bind it round the trunk about half way up. The "ugavule" comes down backwards, and when it gets to the grass it fancies it has reached the ground, and, relinquishing its hold of the tree, it falls to the bottom, where it is stunned and easily captured. Mr. Hood, who visited the Samoas in H. M. S. "Fawn," says of the "paguri," or hermit-crabs there, "It was amusing to see walking up the trees and along the branches, sea shells of all colours and species, each being the stolen abode of one of these robbers, which, if you approach the tree, tumble down from it at once, like a shower of crab-apples."

Mollusks. – The number of molluscan animals to which the numerous coral reefs of the Pacific afford shelter, is very great; the shells of many of them are remarkable for the beauty of their forms and colours, and are therefore much sought after by conchological collectors.

New Caledonia, with its surrounding reefs, is celebrated for the vast variety of rare and beautiful marine shells it produces, so much so, indeed, that it may be styled the conchologist's paradise; whilst the shores of the Solomon Isles, the Figis, the Sandwich, the Tonga, and the Samoan groups, together with the coral islands of the Low Archipelago, all abound in richly-coloured tropical shells. The mollusks of these regions lying within the tropics, belong mostly to the "Indo-Pacific" province of conchologists, which stretches across both oceans, from the east coast of Africa to the west coast of America; certain genera and species

having their head-quarters, as it were, at particular spots most favourable for their development. New Zealand, lying a long way to the south, has a molluscan province of its own.

Although we cannot enter fully into a description of the conchological productions of the Pacific Ocean, a brief notice of a few of its most interesting shells may not be out of place here.

The chambered or pearly nautilus, is distributed throughout the western Pacific. There are three species, N. pompilius, which is common, and has an extensive range, N. macromphalus, which occurs on the coast of New Caledonia, &c., and N. umbilicatus, which is rare, and is found about New Georgia, New Ireland, and the Louisiade. The animal of the nautilus was, until lately, very imperfectly known to naturalists; and many fabulous stories were promulgated about its spreading its tentacles like sails, and floating at will like a miniature ship on the bosom of the sea. In the year 1829, Dr. Bennett succeeded in capturing the animal in a perfect state, in its shell, at Dillon's Bay, in the island of Erumanga, one of the New Hebrides; and from this specimen a full and complete description of it has been given to the world by Professor Owen. The nautilus lives at the bottom of sheltered bays, and in the channels between the reefs, carrying its shell on its back, and creeping about by means of its long tentacles, exactly in the same manner as the cuttle-fish, to which it is nearly allied. The natives of the New Hebrides, the Figis, and New Caledonia, capture the nautilus in

THE ORANGE COWRY: BIVALVE SHELLS.

wicker trays or baskets, and it is much esteemed by them as an article of food. The Samoan Islanders make elegant fillets of the chambered portion of the shells, the external coat being removed so as to exhibit the beautiful pearly layer beneath, which has the brilliancy of the most highly-burnished silver.

The orange cowry (Cypraea aurantia), the "morning dawn" of collectors, is found on the reefs of the Figis. So scarce is this valuable shell, even in those localities, that the possession of one gives the wearer the dignity of a chief. Many other species of cowry are worn round the neck, or are strung together as armlets by the natives. In the Solomon Islands a large white ovulum, or "egg cowry," is much employed in the decoration of canoes, as is also "mother of pearl." In Figi, not only the canoes, but the houses, temples, and chapels of the natives are frequently ornamented with the white shells of the Ovulum ovum, which they call "buliqaqua."

Some fine pearls have occasionally been found; but as yet no actual attempt at a pearl fishery has been made on a large scale, although the pearl oyster is largely collected in the Low Archipelago.

The Triton variegatus is used as a trumpet or war-horn, not only by the Figians, but by the people of the New Hebrides and other groups. It is invariably to be seen in their large canoes.

Many fine species of volutes, harps, mitres, murices, cones, and other rare shells, are also met with on the reefs at low water.

Some of the bivalve shells are extremely beautiful. At New Caledonia is a species of Tellina (T. lata),

which is four inches across, of a shining white, rayed with broad bands of vivid crimson. Of the genera Venus, Pecten, Cardium, Spondylus, &c., there are a great number of fine and showy species.

On the reefs occur enormous "clam" shells (Tridacna), some of which weigh two or three hundred weight. The valves are, frequently used in Roman Catholic churches as fonts for containing holy water. When the tide rises upon the reefs these huge bivalves open; and instances have been known of persons wading in search of beche-de-mer, and other marine productions, who have incautiously stepped into them, and on the valves closing, have been held, as in a vice, until they were drowned by the overflowing tide.

In the Sandwich Islands is a small shell of the genus Latirus, which, when dry, exhibits no extraordinary feature, but, upon being wetted, it instantly displays the most brilliant prismatic colours.

In New Zealand we meet with the imperial Turbo, the Struthiolaria; the large Haliotis iris, or "pawa" of the natives, the iridescent lining of which is used by them for ornamenting their canoes and weapons, and also for a kind of glittering fishhooks; and several species of Elenchus; one of which (Cantharidus iris) is much valued as an eardrop when denuded of its outer coaling. Oysters of various kinds are numerous throughout the Pacific; and in Figi the natives make soup of a fresh-water Cyrena.

Of terrestrial molluscs, or land shells, the Polynesian islands present several interesting groups.

LAND SHELLS.

In New Guinea, the Admiralty, and Solomon Islands, most of the snails belong to a trochiform group of Helices, known as Geotrochus: many species of this group are very beautifully spotted or banded, and their lips brilliantly tinted with scarlet, rose colour, or yellow. Several Bulimi also are found in the forests, one of which, the Bulimus miltocheilus, from the island of Gaudalcanar, is perhaps the most striking of any; it is of a delicate greenish straw colour, with the edge of the lip bright vermilion.

In New Caledonia and the adjacent islands, we find a group of Bulimi of large size, numbering more than a dozen species, with thickened, plaited mouths; they are usually of a dark-brownish colour, their interior being either yellow or red: they belong to the genus Pleikocheilus.

In the central Pacific islands small flattened forms of Helix occur, and the genus Partula is abundant both in species and individuals; whilst the Sandwich Islands, further removed to the north-east, are the head-quarters of the genus Achatinella; nearly two hundred species of which prettily painted little shells inhabit the trees and ravines of that more northern group. New Zealand has, besides a great many small land snails, three of considerable size; the Bulimus shongi, which belongs to the New Caledonian group, Pleikocheilus; and two large flattened snails, the Helix Busbii, or "papa-rangi" 2 of the natives, which is of a curious shining dark olive-green colour, and is found at the roots of the "rata" trees; and another species, which has lately

been discovered on the mountains of the Middle Island, just below the snow limits; it somewhat resembles the "papa-rangi" in form and size, but is horn-coloured, handsomely banded with black. It has been named Helix Hochstetterii, after the geologist attached to the Austrian frigate "Novara," who discovered it, on the scientific voyage of that vessel round the world.

Insects. – Of insect life in Figi, Dr. Seemann says, "Mosquitoes are very troublesome in some parts; and equally irritating are the flies, which keep one's hands constantly employed; and, in order to have a meal in peace, a boy must be kept continually employed in driving them away. Cockroaches are swarming in most houses, canoes, and vessels, and often disturb one during the night, not alone by running over one's body, but by attacking it in right earnest. Some very fine butterflies and beetles are met with; and at dusk the woods begin to swarm with myriads of fire-flies. The leaf and stick insects can scarcely be distinguished from real leaves. Some large kinds of spiders, amongst them a stinging one, have to be noticed. Centipedes nearly a foot long were frequently encountered by us in the woods; and scorpions are more abundant than one could wish." The Rev. W. Lawry tells us that the dragon-flies in the Figis are of a ruby colour; and that the Staphylinus emits a light as brilliant as that of the Chinese fire-fly.

Annelides. – In the Figis, in Samoa, Tonga, and the New Hebrides, the "balolo," a curious little marine annelidan makes its periodical appearance,

THE "BALOLO:" THE "BECHE-DE-MER."

annually, in the month of November, generally on the 25th, in such vast quantities that the sea looks more solid than liquid with their entangled masses. They may be termed the "white-bait" of the islanders, who look for their coming with great anxiety. On their appearance the natives go out in their canoes to catch "balolo," and collect great masses of these small green worms, which they tie up in bread-fruit leaves, and cook in their ovens; these they esteem an especial delicacy, and forward presents of "balolo" to their less-favoured friends, who reside in districts where the worms do not make their appearance.

Radiata. – The beche-de-mer, or "sea slug" is plentiful in many of the Pacific islands, and is collected extensively as an article of commerce. This animal belongs to the genus Holothuria; and, when prepared, finds a ready sale in the China market, where it is used as an ingredient in rich soups. Of the beche-de-mer there are several distinct kinds, some of which are superior in quality to others. They are procured on the reefs at low water, or are obtained by diving in from one to two fathoms. In the Figis there are lucrative fisheries carried on for this article, especially on the northern side of Vanua Levu. Vessels from America and the Australian colonies visit the various islands to procure the beche-de-mer for the Chinese trade.

2 "The shell that fell from heaven."

CHAPTER V. NEW ZEALAND. – THE NORTH ISLAND PROVINCES.

CHAPTER V.

NEW ZEALAND. – THE NORTH ISLAND PROVINCES.

MOUNT EGMONT, NEW ZEALAND.

NEW ZEALAND is situated in the extreme southwestern portion of the Pacific, and is surrounded on all sides by the waters of that ocean. Its position is more isolated than most other of the Polynesian groups, except the Sandwich Islands,

EXTENT OF NEW ZEALAND.

being distant from the east coast of Australia about 1150 miles, and about the same from New Caledonia and the Friendly Islands, which lie to the north. Its most northernmost point is in 84 deg. 23' S., and its extreme southern is 47 deg. 19'; so that it extends nearly through thirteen degrees of latitude, and measures in a curved line more than 1100 miles in length. Its breadth varies from 10 miles to 200, owing to the irregularities of the coast line, but the average may be taken at about 120. It consists of two large islands, and one smaller one. The former are separated from each other by the channel of Cook's Straits; the more southward of these being divided from the third island by Foveaux Strait. The North Island of New Zealand has an area of about 54,100 square miles, and is upwards of 500 miles in length; its northern portion consists of a series of irregular peninsulas, whilst the southern part is broader and more compact. The Middle Island is even somewhat larger, with a less broken coast line, whilst the southern, or Stewart's Island, is comparatively small, measuring about 50 miles by 40, with an area of 900 square miles. The entire coast line of New Zealand, if we follow the various indentations of the land, probably exceeds 3000 miles in extent.

These three islands have been officially named respectively, New Ulster, New Munster, and New Leinster, though these appellations are but rarely used. Their entire surface may be roughly estimated to contain about 60,000,000 of acres, being a territory about equal in size to that of Great

Britain, of which country New Zealand may be considered the antipodes.

Next to Australia and New Guinea, New Zealand ranks as the largest and most important of the great insular masses in the South Pacific Ocean.

The two larger islands, separated only by a strait, compose properly only one country. The North Island is especially distinguished by the finest soil, and by natural features of the grandest and boldest description. Chains of lofty mountains run through both islands, which rise occasionally to the altitude of 10,000 or 12,000 feet, and are buried for two thirds of their height in snow during a great portion of the year. From these heights numerous streams flow down, watering in their course the most fertile and enchanting valleys. The huge glaciers and plains of snow which cover their higher regions; the mighty torrents which pour down from them, forming stupendous cataracts; the grand primaeval woods which crown their middle regions; the hills which wind along their feet, decked with the brightest vegetation; the bold cliffs and promontories which breast the might of the Southern waves; the beautiful bays, decked with numberless villages and canoes, all conspire to present a scene, which even the eye of the rudest voyager cannot behold without rapture. Geologically, the three islands belong to one system, forming an extensive and isolated mountain of elevation from the unfathomable depth of the Pacific Ocean; and nature has engraved on it everywhere the most indelible marks of her two

THE SOUTHERN OR NEW ZEALAND ALPS.

most powerful agents, fire and water. An immense chain of mountains, broken only by Cook's Straits, traverses both islands longitudinally, forming their backbone, as it were, and finding its greatest development in the Middle Island, where it has appropriately received the name of the Southern Alps. In the centre of this chain, Mount Cook and other giant peaks rise majestically to an elevation of 13,000 feet, their summits being covered with perpetual snow and everlasting glaciers. The volcanic origin of the country is most distinctly marked in the Northern Island, where the Tongariro, a volcano still active, and the Ruapahu, whose fires have long been extinguished, stand in the centre of the island, both crowned with snow, forming, together with several others, a magnificent group of mountains; and the extinct volcano of Mount Egmont, or Taranaki, rears its cone above New Plymouth to a height of 8840 feet.

The North Cape of New Zealand situated in lat. 34 deg. 25' S., terminates in barren, precipitous sand-hills, where the foaming Pacific unceasingly dashes against the towering black rocks which skirt the shore. Westward, a few miles from the North Cape, and separated from it by a deep sandy bay which affords no anchorage, is Cape Reinga, or Maria Van Diemen, so named by Tasman in honour of the daughter of a governor of Dutch India. It is at this spot the New Zealanders formerly supposed that the spirits of the departed left the island for another world. Point Pocock and Cape Brett mark the entrance to the Bay of Islands, lower down on

the north-east coast. Cape Colville is the extremity of a long peninsula forming the eastern side of the magnificent Gulf of Hauraki, on which the city of Auckland is situated. East Cape, immediately behind which rises a remarkable high land, about 8000 feet above the level of the sea, is the most easterly point of New Zealand. Cape Palliser, a fine, high, bold headland, marks the southern extremity of the North Island; and Cape Egmont, above which rises the lofty conical mountain of the same name, is on the west coast, forming the northern entrance to Cook's Straits.

In the Middle Island, Cape Farewell is at the north-western, and Cape Campbell at the southeastern limit of Cook's Straits. Behind the latter rises Mount Tako, a lofty snow-capped peak, which is visible at a great distance, and serves as an excellent landmark for vessels making Cook's Straits from the eastward, as also does Mount Egmont for those coming from the west.

On the east side of the Middle Island, Banks' Peninsula projects out into the Pacific for a distance of forty-two miles, being connected with the main land by a low, sandy isthmus; it forms an elevated table-land, rising abruptly from the sea, white, and distinguishable a very long way off. To the south of Port Otago is Cape Saunders; and South Cape is the most southern extremity of Stewart's Island.

The rugged and indented sea-board of New Zealand affords many extensive bays and excellent harbours, especially on its eastern coasts. The Bay of Islands has an entrance eleven miles wide, and

THE BAY OF ISLANDS: THE BAY OF PLENTY.

was so named by Captain Cook, on account of the numerous rocks and islets with which it is studded. It is nevertheless a remarkably fine and capacious harbour, and affords shelter at all seasons and in any weather. It branches into several smaller harbours, the two most used by shipping being Kororarika Bay, and the Kawa-kawa, where the township of Russell is situated. The Bay of Islands was long celebrated as the favourite resort of the South Sea whalers, who put in there to refit and obtain supplies.

Hauraki Gulf is an extensive roadstead, open to the north, with an entrance sixteen miles wide; it is skirted by the Barrier Islands, and terminates southwards in the estuary of the River Thames. It contains two fine harbours, Kaihu, on its northwestern side; and Waitemata, which is separated only by a narrow isthmus from the harbour of Manukau, on the west coast. On the harbour of Waitemata, Auckland, the capital of the province, and the present seat of the New Zealand government, is situated.

The Bay of Plenty is a wide expanse, also open to the north, between Hauraki Gulf and the East Cape; it contains the harbour of Tauranga, which is resorted to by small coasting vessels. Hawkes' Bay, further south, is an extensive bay, opening to the south-east, at the end of which is Ahuriri Harbour. In Cook's Straits are Port Nicholson, the site of the town of Wellington; and Porirua Harbour. On the west coast of the North Island is the Hokianga, a beautiful estuary, eighty miles south

from Cape Maria Van Diemen; it extends inland about thirty miles, and is indented by small bays and creeks, and receives the waters of numerous rivers and streams, most of them navigable for small craft, and sufficiently deep for floating the largest timber. There is a good anchorage for vessels of 500 tons on all sides of the channel, up to the head of the bay. Sixty miles south of Hokianga is the harbour of Kaipara, which has an entrance five or six miles wide, but expands into a fine bay nearly thirty miles long, and sheltered from every wind. Manukau, Waikato, Waingaroa, and Kawia, are also harbours on the west coast, but they are more or less insecure and difficult of access during westerly gales. The roadstead of Taranaki, or New Plymouth, is open to the north-west; and although affording a good anchorage when the winds are southerly or easterly, vessels are obliged to put to sea immediately on the approach of a north-wester.

The principal bays and harbours of the Middle Island are, Massacre Bay, at the western extremity of Cook's Straits – Tasman's Bay, further east, at the head of which is Port Nelson, where there is always abundance of water for vessels of 500 or 600 tons, perfect shelter in every wind, and excellent holding ground – Queen Charlotte's Sound, nearly opposite Port Nicholson, where the straits are at the narrowest, is one of the finest harbours in the world, whether for room, shelter, or the excellence of its anchorage; it was the favourite wintering place of Captain Cook; it has an entrance twenty-six miles wide, and extends inland in a winding

HARBOURS OF THE MIDDLE ISLAND.

course for more than thirty miles, narrowing by degrees. Cloudy Bay, a former resort of whalers, lies a little to the south of Queen Charlotte's Sound, at the eastern entrance of Cook's Straits. Lower down on the east coast of the Middle Island is Pegasus Bay; and on the north side of Banks' Peninsula is Port Cooper, now called Port Victoria, where the town of Lyttelton is situated. On the south-east extremity of the same peninsula is Akaroa, a remarkably fine and safe harbour, which was formerly a French settlement, and now belongs to the province of Canterbury. In latitude 46 deg. S. is Port Otago, at the end of which is Port Chalmers, the most southern harbour in the island calculated to receive large ships. The rapidly progressing city of Dunedin stands at the head of this harbour.

The south-west coast is rugged and perpendicular, and intersected with numerous deep channels or "fiords," running inland between stupendous precipices. In many cases the water in these channels is so deep as to prevent anchorage.

Stewart's Island possesses the very fine harbour of Port Pegasus on its south-east coast, equal in every respect to that of Sydney in New South Wales, and superior to it in having three safe entrances.

New Zealand possesses some fine navigable rivers, of which the Waikato is most important. Having its rise in Lake Taupo, in the centre of the Northern Island, it flows for upwards of 150 miles in a northerly direction, joining the Waipa in its course, and falling into the sea on the west coast. It is in

many places broad and deep, and as wide as the Thames at Greenwich. Its hanks are low and fertile, with patches of forest, and numerous native settlements. The Thames, another noble stream, runs almost parallel to the Waikato, but further to the eastward, and falls into Hauraki Gulf. It is navigable for vessels of 130 tons. The Piako rises in the valley of the Thames and flows between that river and the Waikato. The Roturua and the Terawera empty themselves into the Bay of Plenty. The Wangoroa flows into Poverty Bay. The Manawatu, the Ruamahanga, and the Hutt, water the southern portions of the province of Wellington, the latter falling into the head of Port Nicholson. The Wanganui has its source in the wild volcanic region about the Tongariro, and flows with a tortuous course southwards, till it reaches Cook's Straits. At its entrance is the settlement or township of Petre.

Rivers and streams in the Middle Island are very numerous, having their sources in the snowy mountain ranges of the interior. On many of these rivers there are considerable waterfalls, which, though they impede navigation, afford considerable mechanical power for manufacturing or agricultural purposes. The Matuoka, the Waimea, and the Pelorus empty themselves into Cook's Straits. On the east coast are many important streams, amongst which are the Ashley, the Courtenay the Cholmondeley, the Waitaki, the Clutha, and the Mataura. On the west coast are the Buller, the Grey, the Okitiko, the Wairoa, and others, some of which are as yet unexplored. Both islands have lakes of

DISCOVERY OF NEW ZEALAND BY TASMAN.

considerable size, some of which have been mentioned in a former chapter in connection with their volcanic relations. Lake Taupo, and the Roturua lakes are the principal ones in the North Island; whilst in the Middle Island are Lakes Brunner, Wihola, Hawea, Wanaka, Wakatipu, Maniatoto, and Te Anaa, besides many smaller ones amongst the snow-clad ranges of the Southern Alps.

New Zealand was discovered by Tasman in 1642, during the same voyage in which he first saw Van Diemen's Land. Appearing a high and mountainous country, he gave it the name of Staaten Land, supposing it at that time to have been part of the continent of Terra Australis. He anchored at a spot now laid down on the charts as Massacre Bay, where some inhabitants apposed, and, sounding a large shell, they endeavoured to attract his attention by addressing him in a dialect which he could not comprehend. These natives he describes as being "of common stature, and strong-boned; their colour between brown and yellow, and their hair black, which they were tied up oil the crown of the head like the Japanese, each having a large white feather stuck upright in the midst of it." They came off in boats, "their vessels being double canoes, fastened together by cross planks, on which they sat." Tasman endeavoured in vain to come to some understanding with these people; but they attacked his boat, and killed three of his men.

Nothing more was heard of New Zealand, from the time of Tasman, till Captain Cook's voyage in 1769. That celebrated navigator anchored in

Poverty Bay on the east coast of the Northern Island on the 6th of October of that year. Cook's ship was at first taken for a bird by the New Zealanders, and many remarks passed among them as to the beauty and size of its wings, as the sails were supposed to be. But on seeing the pinnace, which they supposed to be a smaller bird, unfledged, descending into the water, and a number of parti-coloured beings, but apparently in the human shape, also descending, the bird was regarded as a house full of divinities.

In the same year, however, a French expedition, under the command of M. Marion, visited New Zealand, where they were well received by the natives, and treated for some time with kindness and good-nature; but some dispute arising, a portion of them were murdered and eaten. M. Crozet says, "They treated us with every show of friendship for thirty-three days, with the intention of eating us on the thirty-fourth." During Cook's second voyage, in 1773, the crow of one of the boats belonging to the "Adventure," Captain Furneaux, was also massacred and eaten by the New Zealanders. Towards the close of the eighteenth century, considerable intercourse began to take place between the British penal settlement at Port Jackson, in New South Wales, and New Zealand. To encourage this intercourse, occasional presents of cattle, pigs, sheep, and seeds were sent to the New Zealanders from Port Jackson; and, at length, a chief named Te Pahi, belonging to the Bay of Islands, visited Port Jackson, accompanied by his five sons.

E'HONGI VISITS ENGLAND.

The intercourse thus commenced was the means of removing much of that apprehension of the natives which had been hitherto felt by mariners who frequented the South Seas; but all the dread of their ferocious character was revived by the fearful massacre of the crew of the "Boyd" whaling ship in 1809.

Between the years 1814 and 1822, two chiefs of the Nga Puis, E'Hongi and Waikati, paid a visit to England, where they appeared as converts to Christianity, and were loaded with presents by George IV. On their return to New Zealand, though they had procured arms and ammunition in this country, to enable them to make war on other tribes, who were their enemies, they faithfully protected the missionaries; and E'Hongi, in particular, stood their friend as long as he lived.

Very shortly after the capabilities of New Zealand had been made known to Europe by Captain Cook, projects for its colonization were entertained. The earliest scheme was that suggested by the celebrated Benjamin Franklin, who in 1771 published proposals for forming an association to fit out a vessel by subscription, which should proceed to New Zealand with a cargo of such commodities as would be most suitable to the natives, and bring back in return so much of the produce of the country as should defray the expenses of the adventure. This scheme, however, was abandoned, sufficient funds not being raised by its projectors.

As soon as the South Sea whale fishery was established, New Zealand became the resort of the

ships of all the various nations engaged in it; and scattered settlements began to be formed on the most favourable parts of the coast, especially about Cook's Straits and the Bay of Islands, by the shore whalers, who frequently purchased large tracts of land from the chiefs for mere nominal considerations. In 1814 the missionaries belonging to the Church Missionary Society, and, in 1819, those of the Wesleyan Board of Missions, first directed their efforts towards the amelioration and improvement of the natives; and at a somewhat later period, the Roman Catholic missionaries also commenced their labours amongst the population of the North Island.

In 1825, a commercial company was formed in London under the auspices of the then Earl of Durham, which despatched two vessels to New Zealand, and acquired land at Hokianga, and at the mouth of the River Thames. This company, however, was prevented from carrying out its intention of forming a settlement; and its land ultimately became vested in the New Zealand Company, which arose out of an association, formed in 1887, whose object was to induce the British Government to apply to New Zealand the peculiar system of colonization called the Wakefield system, which had been tried with such success in South Australia.

The native wars raging amongst the various tribes in the northern island, induced a number of the leading chiefs, at the suggestion of the missionaries, to send an application to King William IV., in 1831, to become their "friend and guardian." This desire on the part of the chiefs led to the appointment of

THE TREATY OF WANGANUI.[WAITANGI]

Mr. Busby as British resident and commissioner at the Bay of Islands.

The formation of the New Zealand Company, in 1838, and the determination evinced by influential persons in Great Britain to colonize these islands, caused the home government to send out Captain Hobson, R. N., to make terms with the natives, and to take possession of New Zealand for the British crown. Thus, the first governor arrived at the Bay of Islands on the 30th January, 1840; and, through the aid of the missionaries – who seem to have been opposed to the independent efforts of the companies – the treaty of Wanganui was, on the 5th February, concluded with the natives. The principle of this arrangement was that the sovereignty of the British crown was acknowledged to extend over the three islands, the inhabitants receiving the privileges of British subjects. The right of property in the soil was reserved to the respective chiefs and tribes, subject only to a right of pre-emption by the crown when they sold land, and an adjustment of such equitable claims as might arise out of the previous land transactions.

In September, 1840, the settlement of Auckland, in Hauraki Gulf, was founded by Captain Hobson, where the seat of government was established. These measures produced some unpleasant feeling, both in England and in the new colony, between the government and the officers and agents of the company; however, these differences were reconciled; the company received a charter of incorporation in 1841; and in that year, another company, formed

chiefly of inhabitants of Devonshire and Cornwall, founded the settlement of New Plymouth, on the west coast, at the foot of Mount Egmont. The New Zealand Company, after establishing their first township at Port Nicholson, which was called Wellington, organized the settlement of Nelson, on the northern extremity of the Middle Island, the first colonists arriving there in August, 1842. In 1847, the settlement of Otago, also in the Middle Island, but on the east coast, was formed, principally by members of the Free Church of Scotland. Another company for colonizing New Zealand was finally established in 1848, and received a royal charter of incorporation in 1849. This was "the Canterbury Association," under the auspices of which the settlement of Canterbury was founded, the leading feature in the scheme of its founders being the establishment of the Church of England in the colony: all the first colonists were members of that church; and a portion of the proceeds of the sale of lands was set apart for the building of churches, the maintenance of the clergy, and the establishment of schools.

New Zealand is now governed under the provisions of an act which received the royal assent on the 30th June, 1852, and came into operation in the colonies on 5th April, 1853. This act originally established six provinces in New Zealand: – 1. Auckland. 2. New Plymouth. 3. Wellington. 4. Nelson. 5. Canterbury. 6. Otago. Of these the three former are situated in the Northern Island, and the three last in the Middle Island. This act also regulated the creation of further sub-govern-

PROVINCE OF AUCKLAND.

ments of this kind; and three more have recently been added to the six originally established, namely, Hawke's Bay, in 1858; Marlborough, in 1859; and, still later, Southland, which has been separated from Otago, of which province it was formerly a portion. The Southern, or Stewart's Island, is not as yet regularly colonized; but a few sealers and squatters reside upon it: the latter being engaged in pastoral pursuits, having flocks of both sheep and cattle. The province of Auckland comprises the northern half of the North Island, being bounded on the south by the provinces of New Plymouth, Wellington, and Hawke's Bay, respectively. It covers a large area, and has a peculiarly indented coastline, along which are several fine harbours, especially those of Waitemata, the Bay of Islands, and the beautiful and capacious Harbour of Wangaroa, on the north-east coast; with those of Hokianga, Kaipara, and Manukau, on the west. The province is well watered by several important rivers, of which the Waikato is the largest. This noble stream, rising near the central group of mountains, after joining the Waipa, flows through a rich and fertile country, thickly populated by the powerful Waikato tribes, whose settlements and plantations are scattered along its banks. The lakes of Taupo and Roturua, with their boiling springs, together with the volcanic region of Tongariro, and the Ruapahu, have already been noticed in a previous chapter. This central region is the great focus of present volcanic action in New Zealand; and displays scenery of peculiar grandeur and beauty. The

great truncated cone of Tongariro, pouring out masses of vapour and steam, and the broad, unsullied snows of the Ruapahu, form the leading features of the landscape; whilst blue lakes, mountain torrents rushing along between rocky chasms, foaming cascades, and dense forests, alternating with tracts of undulating fern and heather, all combine to add to the charms of this strangely beautiful region. Around this volcanic centre is a desolate country, covered with coarse grass, over which lumps of light pumice-stone are everywhere scattered about. Quantities of this pumice may also be seen floating on the surface of the Waikato, on its way to the sea. A great proportion of the northern part of the province consists of ranges of high hills and broken country, clothed with the most dense and luxuriant forests, and diversified here and there with extensive tracts of undulating land, which is covered with fern several feet high. Small streams and occasional swamps intersect these hills, along which the New Zealand flax grows abundantly.

This province was first occupied as a colony in 1840; the British flag being hoisted at Waitemata by the Lieutenant-Governor, on the 9th September of that year, and the site of Auckland chosen for the capital; the whole of the three islands of New Zealand having been previously declared by proclamation to be under the sovereignty of Her Britannic Majesty.

The city of Auckland, the seat of the colonial government in New Zealand, is situated at the head

CITY OF AUCKLAND.

of Waitemata Harbour, in the Gulf of Hauraki, on the east coast of the North Island, in lat. 36 deg. 53' S., long. 174 deg. 48' E. The island here is extremely narrow, being at one point not quite a mile across; and on the west coast, opposite to Auckland, and distant about five miles from it, is the bar harbour of Manukau. Indeed, without the aid of a map it would be difficult to convey anything like a distinct impression of the position of Auckland, begirt as it is by harbours, and forming a centre from which water communication radiates inland in every direction. As viewed from the harbour, Auckland presents rather an imposing appearance, the greater number of the houses having been built near the water, in the bays, and upon the headlands with which the harbour is indented. These bays are backed by small valleys, which run inland to the distance of about half a mile, terminating in narrow gullies, and are separated from each other by spurs which run into the harbour and terminate in low headlands. The lower parts of the town being thus divided, the roads which connect them with each other are somewhat steep and inconvenient.

St. Paul's church, with its neat spire, occupying a prominent position on the central headland, is an ornamental feature. The most considerable public buildings are the Britomart and Albert barracks, having, together, accommodation for nearly 1000 men. These buildings are solid and substantial, but, from being built mostly of a dark grey-coloured scoria, have a gloomy appearance. The military stores, hospital, magazine, and commis-

sariat offices are also built of scoria. Besides these, the Scotch church, the Colonial Hospital, the Roman Catholic church, the Wesleyan Institution, and the windmill on the hill, with the extinct crater of Mount Eden in the background, are the most prominent objects.

Official Bay, commanded by St. Paul's church, and with its detached cottage-like houses, built on a sheltered slope, each snugly nestled in the luxuriant shrubbery of its surrounding garden, look pretty and picturesque. Commercial Bay, as seen from the water, presents the appearance of a large town, having a mass of houses closely packed together. Mechanic's Bay has a large rope-walk, a shipbuilder's yard, a native hostelry, and other buildings. This bay is the principal place of encampment for the natives visiting Auckland in their canoes; here they land their produce, supplying the city market with potatoes, onions, and other vegetables, together with pigs and poultry, &c., to a large extent. In fine weather they bivouac in the open air. or under their sail-made tents, and in bad, seek shelter in the neighbouring inn. There are several good and well laid out streets in the town, though some of them, as Shortland Crescent, are extremely steep. The principal houses are now built of brick, wood being the material of which the earlier dwellings were erected. Some of the shops in the town are very good; there are three churches of England, several schools, good hotels, a bank, a mechanics' institute, and a concert-room. Auckland is the seat of the see of the Bishop of

CITY OF AUCKLAND.

New Zealand, and the spot from which missionary enterprise is chiefly directed, being the centre of the operations of the Church Missionary Society for New Zealand, and of the Wesleyan missions for the South Seas, as well as the head-quarters of the Church of Rome and her apostolic missions in the western Pacific. It is also the principal depot for the military stationed in the island. Two battalions of military pensioners, enrolled for service in New Zealand, with their officers, are located at villages in the suburbs; and ships of war are constantly lying at anchor in the port.

Owing to the shallowness of the water on the shore of the harbour at low tides, a wooden jetty 500 feet long has been erected at Official Bay, where it forms a good landing-place at all states of the tide, and affords to the public an agreeable promenade. A quay or wharf stretching out into the harbour from Commercial Bay, alongside which coasting vessels receive and discharge their cargo, is also a great addition to the business part of the town. The country within a short distance of the capital is fast becoming settled and cultivated. Many of the residents in the pensioners' villages have acquired considerable property; and their small farms supply Auckland with quantities of grain, poultry, butter, milk, cheese, vegetables, and fruit. South of Auckland is the Papakura district, the centre of which comprises an extensive plain, agreeably diversified with clumps and belts of trees, which give it a beautiful park-like appearance. Contiguous to the town are the rural villages of

Epsom, Newmarket, Remuera, Onehunga, Panmure, Howick, and Otahuhu; at all of which there are places of worship belonging to the Established Church, and in several of them chapels of other denominations. There are also day and Sunday schools in each of these villages.

Seen from the high bluff in the vicinity of St. Paul's church, the harbour presents the appearance of a land-locked, lake-like sheet of water. The Flagstaff Hill, and North Head, of mound-like form, bound it on the left. Over the low neck of land which connects these, appears the remarkable and lofty volcanic island of Rangitoto, with its triple peak, forming a natural breakwater, as it were, to the north; and beyond are seen the islands of Motutapu, Waiheki, and Ponui; whilst the distance is bounded to the eastward, across the frith of the Thames, by the high lands above Coromandel Harbour, marking the position of the Coromandel gold fields.

The country immediately around Auckland is for the most part devoid of timber; and the isthmus or neck of land on which it is situated bears the strongest traces of volcanic action. Even within sight of the town are some twenty to thirty extinct craters of various elevations, up to 800 or 400 feet, around which lie masses of scoria. The greater part of the land on this isthmus, which divides the two harbours, is now in a high state of cultivation. Solid stone walls and quickset hedges are generally taking the place of temporary wooden fences of posts and rails. At Epsom, and in the Tamaki district, there

PROGRESS OF AUCKLAND.

are grass and clover paddocks, as large, as rich, as well laid down, and as substantially fenced, as any grass land in England. There is a good macadamized road across the isthmus from Auckland to Onehunga, on the Manukau Harbour; and the country around is studded with picturesque farms, cottages, and wayside houses.

Both in agriculture and commerce Auckland appears to be making rapid progress; and, no doubt, now that the native disturbances are virtually at an end, this part of New Zealand, so favoured both by climate and natural position, will present great attractions to the intending emigrant. Within a radius of fourteen miles from Auckland, there are upwards of 20,000 acres fenced in and in crop, whilst more than 5000 head of cattle, besides horses and sheep, are depastured on the isthmus alone. Seven hundred vessels of various sizes, and nearly 2000 native canoes, yearly enter the port of Auckland. There are more than 100 vessels registered as belonging to this port alone, besides upwards of 150 smaller coasting and river craft. Whale ships are again resorting in numbers to this port, as the harbour is open to all the world for vessels to enter and depart free of charge. On the island of Kawaw, in the Gulf of Hauraki, extensive copper-mining works have been established; and at the Great Barrier Island copper mines are in full operation.

At the Bay of Islands there exists the small town of Kororarika, long the resort of the South Sea whalers. This place offers great facilities for shipping, but is difficult of access from the main

land, being surrounded with steep, abrupt hills. It has several places of worship, public-houses, and stores; and there is a scattered population, both European and native, along the shores of the bay, in the small nooks of which they have erected their somewhat primitive-looking dwellings. The government township of Russell, at the mouth of the Kaua-kaua, has increased of late; inns are not wanting, and an abundance of fowls, geese, and ducks renders the scene homely and English-looking.

On the northern shores of the bay, Pahia, the early head-quarters of the Church mission in New Zealand, is seen, like a green oasis, nestled at the foot of high fern hills. It is a pretty spot, with about a dozen or more neat dwellings, almost embowered in foliage, and surrounded by gardens, in which the banana, the loquat, and the peach thrive beneath the mild and delightful climate of this portion of the island.

Speaking of the Bay of Islands, Mr. Angas says, "Nothing can exceed the beauty of the scenery surrounding this harbour; the view from the flagstaff was enchanting. The waters of the bay, indenting the rugged hills around, formed capes, promontories, and headlands innumerable; the distant hills appeared scattered with cowrie forests; the blue ocean broke beyond, against the tall, dark rocks that flank the entrance to this sheltered expanse; and around, beneath a bright evening sky, appeared rich clumps of evergreen foliage and tree-fern glens, with here and there, on some rocky projection, a lofty pohukatoa stretching out towards

PROVINCE OF WELLINGTON.

the sea its aged limbs, crowned with masses of crimson bloom."

Besides the regular settlements, with their various dependencies, there are to be found scattered along the coasts of the province, generally near the mouths of rivers, in some pleasant valley, small communities of from 50 to 200 people, European and native. Such are the trading and mission stations of Kawhia and Mokau, on the west coast, and those of Waingaroa, Kaipara, and Hokianga; also the timber stations of Mercury Bay and Coromandel Harbour, to the east of Auckland. It is in these outlying settlements that the intelligent and handsome race of half-castes are most frequently to be met with.

The province of Wellington occupies the southern portion of the North Island, between New Plymouth on the west, and Hawke's Bay on the east, having an extensive sea-board along the northern shores of Cook's Straits. It was first settled by the New Zealand Company in 1840; the site of the capital, Wellington, being chosen at Port Nicholson, on account of the excellence of its harbour, and the advantages of its central position. The extreme length of the province, from north to south, is nearly 200 miles; whilst the extent of its coast-line is about 300. The neighbourhood of the city of Wellington is rugged and heavily timbered, affording, except in the detached valleys, but little land suitable either for agriculture or pasture. This drawback has, however, been compensated for by the excellent military roads which have been formed, and have opened up the communication with the

fine districts skirting the northern shores of Cook's Straits, along which are planted a line of settlements, some of which are fast growing into importance.

Wellington itself is situated on a beautiful bay within the harbour of Port Nicholson. The houses are for the most part built of wood, owing to the shocks of earthquakes which occur from time to time. It possesses excellent hotels, two banks, several fine churches and chapels, and a commodious hospital. The new government assembly house forms a prominent and picturesque feature on Thornton Flat; buildings are springing up rapidly at the business part of the town, called Te Aro (formerly a native "pah"), and some large new stores and warehouses are in course of erection. There are three newspapers published at Wellington; and the population have horticultural shows and theatrical entertainments, as well as choral and literary societies, combined with annual race meetings and aquatic sports, to beguile the monotony of colonial life.

The position of the harbour of Port Nicholson, at the south-eastern entrance of Cook's Straits, renders it exposed to the heavy gales that at certain times blow from that quarter during the winter season. Between the high land that rises on each side of the entrance to the harbour, the wind, on such occasions, rushes in, as through a funnel, with unrelenting fury. These "south-easters" generally last two or three days, and blow with such terrific violence that no communication can be held

COUNTRY SETTLEMENTS.

with the shipping at anchor in the bay; and the wooden houses of Wellington rock and tremble to the storm.

Inland from Wellington there is ready access to some of the finest agricultural and pastoral lands in either island. A fair road of twelve miles, winding through the beautiful forest-clad hills at the back of the town, and dotted with roadside clearings and picturesque cottages, leads to Porirua, a pretty lake and harbour for small craft, in Cook's Straits. Here commences a tract of fine coast country about one hundred miles in length by twenty in breadth. The Manawatu, about seventy miles from Wellington, is a considerable river, navigable for coasting craft. Numerous settlers are scattered along its banks, who possess a large extent of cleared land and some fine flocks and herds.

Wanganui, some fifty miles further north, bids fair to be an important settlement. The village or township called Petre, about two miles from the mouth of the Wanganui River, is a military post, a leading mission station, and the depot of a large and flourishing native trade.

Along the picturesque and fertile valley of the Hutt, running inland from the head of Port Nicholson harbour, is a road communicating with the Wairarapa plains, distant from Wellington about forty miles. This is one of the finest pastoral districts in New Zealand, now exhibiting several little village-towns, and the homesteads and stock-stations of numbers of thriving settlers, rich in sheep and cattle. The interior of the province, a

country well watered by the feeders of the Manawatu and the Wanganui, traversed by the Rua Wahine range of mountains, and running north up to the confines of Lake Taupo, is comparatively but little known. It is said, however, to contain many valleys and small plains well adapted for cultivation.

The little province of Hawke's Bay was separated in 1858 from that of Wellington, of which it was formerly a part. It is situated on the east coast, to the south of the Auckland province, and possesses the harbour of Ahurihi, which is a tolerably good one for steamers and coasting vessels. The capital is the infant town of Napier. The area of the province is somewhere above two and a half millions of acres, about half of which has already been acquired by the government. The land is remarkable for its great natural fertility, a large proportion of it being admirably suited both for agricultural and pastoral purposes. In places it presents the appearance of a beautiful champaign country, dotted here and there with trees and clumps of foliage. The climate is salubrious and delightful, and its central position, and the great natural advantages it offers to the settler, will no doubt attract to Hawke's Bay a considerable share of British enterprise and labour.

The scenery of Cook's Straits, as viewed from the deck of a vessel sailing through it, is remarkably fine and grand. Coming from the westward, the lofty summit of Mount Egmont, at its northern entrance, is visible at a distance of ninety miles, rearing its snow-capped cone high above the horizon, and marking the site of Taranaki, or New Plymouth.

COOK'S STRALTS: PORT NICHOLSON.

Entering the strait, the land on either side becomes visible, broken into all manner of rugged and fantastic forms, and mountain ranges clothed with forest or fern. On the right, the coast of the Middle Island displays long ranges of very high land, backed by mountain peaks covered with snow. To the left, Entry Island, and Mana or Table Island, are visible, with the shores towards Port Nicholson. Presently is seen the entrance to Queen Charlotte's Sound, with the high Cape Kumaroo, and the remarkable group of rocks called "the Brothers" in the foreground. Then appear the shores of Cloudy Bay, formerly a celebrated resort of South Sea whalers, beyond which extends a ridge of snow-clad mountains losing themselves in the distance, as they range away to the southward; the lofty peak of Mount Tako rising above the rest of the Kaikoras or "Lookers-on," as this grand mountain chain is called. The entrance to the harbour of Port Nicholson is between high bluff headlands, with sharp, needle-like rocks jutting out of the water on both sides. On passing through this entrance the noble harbour of Port Nicholson presents a most beautiful appearance; a vast sheet of water, completely landlocked, with two small islands rising near its centre, and the large township of Wellington situated on its western shore. Nothing can exceed the loveliness of the scenery when viewed from the heights at the back of the town: the harbour, on a sunny day, looks like a large blue lake embosomed deep in hills and rocky precipices; the islands in its centre glittering in the sunshine, and its surface enlivened

with ships and boats and the graceful canoes of the natives. To the northward, the fertile valley of the Hutt stretches up towards the inland mountains, backed by the snowy range of Tararua, whose white summits stand out in bold relief against the dark blue sky. A beach of fine white sand borders the deep bays and indentations of the shore, where the scattered residences of the settlers, and the villages of the natives peep out amidst green clearings and gardens, or patches of deep umbrageous forest, rivalling in foliage the luxuriance of the tropics.

The small province of New Plymouth, or Taranaki, occupies that projecting part of the southwestern portion of the North Island, terminating in Cape Egmont. It was founded in 1840 by a body of Devonshire and Cornish gentlemen, who afterwards handed it over to the New Zealand Company. The town of New Plymouth, situated on the sea-coast, is extremely picturesque in appearance, being scattered up and down the sloping sides of gentle hills, and resembles an English village more than any other in the country. The surrounding scenery is remarkably beautiful; and in the background rises the lofty snow-clad cone of Mount Egmont, which gives a peculiar and grand effect to the landscape. Indeed the country around New Plymouth may well be styled the garden of New Zealand. The soil consists of a rich mould, with luxuriant wooded dells here and there, and clear streams leaping and sparkling along the fertile valleys towards the sea. The cottages of the settlers, with their rustic homesteads and well-tilled fields,

NEW PLYMOUTH.

are scattered about in every direction; the abundance of the crops testifying to the fertile character of the soil. The climate is agreeable and very healthy: and few parts of the world can boast of finer-looking children than those born and reared in New Plymouth. The principal drawback to the settlement is the want of a good harbour, the only anchorage being an open roadstead, exposed to the north-west. The town has a population of about 1500 persons, most of whom are from the western counties of England. It contains a handsome stone church, several chapels and schools, a hospital, a literary institution, some good inns, a fine assembly-room, a brewery, and three excellent flour-mills. The houses, mostly built of wood, with high, thatched roofs, and gardens full of flowers, have a very picturesque aspect. Trees and ferns, loft here and there, throw their shadows across the paths; and neat gates and compact fences add to the rustic beauty of the scene. The natives about New Plymouth, and in the other parts of the province, are numerous; and a considerable proportion of the land still remains in their hands. They evince a strong dislike to parting with their lands, and thus much of the finest territory lies idle. The disputes between the natives and the government surveyors have led to serious disturbances from time to time; and a harassing guerilla war has much retarded the progress, and checked the security and happiness of the settlers. The natives about New Plymouth are much advanced in agriculture, have some good horses, and a finer breed of cattle than is to be seen

in possession of other tribes; their cultivations are many of them fenced in with post and rail fences.

Although so limited in area, nearly all the land in the province is of the finest and most fertile description, and well suited for the production of wheat, barley, potatoes, maize, and green crops of all sorts. English grasses and Dutch clover grow in the richest luxuriance. The pastures are as rich as those of Devonshire; and no clotted cream or butter can surpass that made in the dairies of New Plymouth, whilst their cheese is quite equal to the finest Stilton. The climate and water are well adapted for brewing; the hop grows well, and excellent beer is brewed near the town.

CHAPTER VI. NEW ZEALAND. – THE MIDDLE ISLAND PROVINCES; THE CHATHAM AND AUCKLAND ISLANDS.

CHAPTER VI.

NEW ZEALAND. – THE MIDDLE ISLAND PROVINCES; THE CHATHAM AND AUCKLAND ISLANDS.

MOUNT COOK, THE HIGHEST PEAK OF THE SOUTHERN ALPS.

NELSON, which is the northern province of the Middle Island, extends from Cook's Straits on the north to the province of Canterbury, by which it is bounded on the south. Its extreme length from

north to south is about 100 miles, and its greatest breadth about seventy. A considerable portion of the western part of the province appears to be a densely timbered alpine wilderness, unavailable for settlement. The city of Nelson, the capital of the province, was the second town established by the New Zealand Company, having been founded by Captain Wakefield in 1842. Situated on the margin of a snug, dock-like harbour, at the head of Blind, or Tasman's Bay, and sheltered from the cold south wind by an encircling range of precipitous hills, Nelson enjoys a climate of brilliant serenity, described by those who have resided there as being the most delightful in the world. Unlike Wellington or Auckland, Nelson is subject neither to boisterous winds nor long-continued rains. In this genial climate flowers bloom throughout the year, which may be compared to a perpetual spring. The town is built in a square form, and is surrounded by most picturesque scenery. The inhabitants number between two and three thousand; the tone of society is good, and visitors have always spoken highly of the hospitality of the people of Nelson. Being, like Wellington, surrounded by a belt of hills and broken country, there is but little land available for agricultural purposes in the immediate vicinity of the town. The chief agricultural districts in the neighbourhood are the fine valley of Waimea, under high cultivation, and the pleasant district of Motueka, lying across the bay. Massacre Bay, between which place and Nelson there is constant steam communication, contains upwards of 60,000 acres of level or

NELSON: THE DUN MOUNTAIN MINE.

slightly undulating land, of the most fertile character. This district is highly auriferous, a considerable quantity of gold having been procured at the Aorere diggings. A township called Collingwood has been established at the mouth of the Aorere River, in Massacre Bay, and constituted a port of entry. The waters of the Aorere and its tributaries, the Slate and Boulder rivers, are of unrivalled purity and crystalline appearance; they resemble streams of molten silver; and one creek in particular, has received from the natives the name of "the Silver Stream."

A few miles from Nelson is the Dun Mountain, so celebrated for its mineral treasures. Rich specimens of copper ore crop out on its surface, and a company was formed a few years ago to work it. The completion of the Dun Mountain railway has enabled this company to get down to the port and ship for England large quantities of chrome, besides copper ore.

Inland, the valleys of the Upper Motueka, Motupiko, and Lake Arthur districts, have long been occupied as stock runs; and those of the Buller, the Grey, and the Karamea, on the west coast, offer a larger amount of fertile land than was previously supposed. These valleys are of various widths, piercing the range of bold and lofty mountains, through which these several rivers find an outlet to the sea.

Of the wild mountain region in the south-west portion of the province, Mr. Hursthouse writes, "It is a savage, gloomy country, silent, desolate, and

dreary. Here and there, in some secluded nook, a few miserable natives, remnants of early fugitives from the massacres on the eastern side, true 'children of the mist' and 'wild men of the woods,' have raised their little huts to snare the 'kiwi' and the 'weka,' unmolested and unseen. It is a country fresh from Nature's rudest mint, untouched by hand of man – a region where, if anywhere, Audubon would have met the 'moa' on the mountain top, or Owen stumbled upon the icthyosaurus basking on the banks of the lagoon."

Marlborough, formerly the north-eastern portion of Nelson, has recently been erected into a separate province. Its capital is Picton, finely situated on one of the deep arms of Queen Charlotte's Sound. The south-eastern portion of Marlborough consists mainly of the Wairau plains, one of the richest and first occupied pastoral districts in New Zealand, and the scene of the tragic massacre of Captain Wakefield and his surveying party, many years ago.

The northern extremity of the province, along the shores of Cook's Straits, is a rugged and densely wooded country, indented with numerous harbours, bays, and creeks of every shape and capacity. Queen Charlotte's Sound, the principal one, is twenty-five miles long, with two entrances, forming a gigantic harbour, capable of containing all the navies of the world.

The province of Canterbury occupies the centre of the Middle Island, between the parallels of 43 deg. and 45 deg. south latitude. It is bounded on the north by Nelson, and on the south by Otago, having an

PROVINCE OF CANTERBURY.

extreme length from north to south of about 170 miles, its greatest breadth being nearly the same. Its area is about 12,000,000 acres, of which about 4,000,000 on the eastern side of the dividing range of mountains are available for settlement, consisting of large tracts of open agricultural country, well fitted for the plough.

The province of Canterbury was founded by the Canterbury Association, a body of noblemen, bishops, and other members of the English Church. This body was actuated by a desire of placing colonization upon a more improved footing, in which the educational and religious interests of the settlers, as well as their worldly prosperity, might be better consulted than was possible under ordinary circumstances. The first party of the Canterbury settlers landed in the colony in December, 1850, and were of a much higher social position than the ordinary average of emigrants.

Port Victoria, formerly called Port Cooper, is the harbour of Lyttleton, and is a fine, land-locked inlet.

Lyttleton, the chief port of the province, has a population of about 1200. It is surrounded by a belt of precipitous, grassy hills, from the summits of which are seen the famous Canterbury plains – three millions of acres rolling back in gentle rise for forty miles, to the foot of the dividing range of mountains, watered by numerous rivers, and spreading north and south farther than the eye can reach.

Christchurch, the capital, is about eight miles from Lyttleton, and is pleasantly situated on the

River Avon. It contains nearly 2000 inhabitants, and the country around is dotted with corn fields, pastures, orchards, and dairy farms: and the luxuriance of the crops, and the sleek, well-fed appearance of all the domestic animals, which these cultivations exhibit, prove that the tracts of similar soil which surround them need but the magic touch of plough and spade to be clothed with a like mantle of blooming fertility. Small steamers ply from Lyttleton up the river Avon, to within a couple of miles of Christchurch; and a railroad, winding round the hills, and thus completing the communication, is rapidly approaching completion.

The country around Christchurch being very level and denuded of trees, presents somewhat of a monotonous aspect, which, however, will disappear after a few years, when plantations and shrubberies have attained some growth. In the city there are twelve streets running parallel to each other, which are intersected by seven other streets. They are named after the bishop's sees in England, Ireland, and Wales. There are also three squares, two of them named after Latimer and Cranmer, and the third, in the centre of the town, is called Cathedral Square. Christchurch possesses a provincial government building and council-chamber, a college, an excellent grammar, and other schools, a town-hall, a mechanics' institute, library, and newsroom, a fine club-house, a hospital and lunatic asylum, and other public buildings. It has five edifices set apart for public worship, two of which belong to the Church of England. Rows of elegant

AKAROA.

shops are beginning to grace the thoroughfares, and a marked improvement in street architecture has displayed itself during the last two years. Two weekly, and one daily, papers, are printed in Christchurch and Lyttleton; and in 1862 the first telegraph in New Zealand was opened between these two towns.

The principal smaller settlements within the province are, Kaiapoi, a rising village-port on the banks of the Courtenay, ten miles from Christchurch; Timaru, a town situated near the southern boundary of the province, in the midst of a fine pastoral district; and Akaroa, on Banks' Peninsula, where is one of the finest harbours in New Zealand. The latter settlement was originally established by the French, some of whom still remain there. It is a favourite resort of whaling ships that fish off the coast. The climate is milder than that of the plains, and the district around is richly wooded. The vine flourishes well, and the gardens of Akaroa are abundantly stocked with fruit.

The country on the west side of the Snowy Mountains has been but very partially explored. Within the last year or so, very rich gold fields have, however, been discovered in that wild alpine region, and the township of Hokitiki is already assuming considerable proportions; all that is wanted being a safe harbour, most of the rivers on the west coast having dangerous bars. As soon as inland communication is rendered more easy, a valuable market will be opened for surplus produce, and the settlement of the remote districts greatly accelerated.

The country on the eastern side of the mountains, with the exception of some swamps near the coast, and of extensive forests on Banks' Peninsula, and small patches of forest here and there on the plains, is an open country, covered with grass, and in its wild state is estimated to be capable of supporting a million sheep and 50,000 head of cattle. A deep fringe of fine cattle-grazing and loamy agricultural land extends along the sea-board of this noble plain. Though it is generally bare of timber, shelter for young stock, for gardens and clearings, is easily obtained, owing to the quick growth of Australian, English, and native trees and shrubs.

Firewood, building-timber, and fencing materials, are close at hand, in the forests of Banks' Peninsula. Cattle stations, sheep farms, settlers' homesteads, with their paddocks and patches of garden and corn fields, are scattered over it in every direction; flocks and herds are spreading from point to point; and it deservedly ranks as the finest pastoral region in the whole of New Zealand.

The province is well watered by numerous rivers, the largest of which have their sources in the Snowy Mountains, and flow across the plains in very wide beds. At ordinary times the water is remarkably transparent and pure, and flows swiftly in several comparatively narrow channels, fordable on horseback, through the bed of gravel or shingle. In the heavy floods, occasioned by the melting of the snow in early summer, the whole river bed is covered by a torrent of muddy water, and is quite impassable. Near the mountains, the channels lie several hundred

THE SOUTHERN ALPS.

feet below the level of the plains, and are bounded by a succession of natural terraces, with intervening strips of level ground. As the rivers approach the sea, these terraces gradually subside; and for a few miles before their junction with the ocean, some of them flow gently in one deep channel, and are navigable for small coasting vessels.

The remarkable harbour-stored projection of Banks' Peninsula, jutting out into the sea on the east coast, is an interesting feature of the province of Canterbury. It is densely wooded, and with its hills, forests, and inlets, presents many beautiful landscapes. The vast Canterbury plains have somewhat of a dreary and monotonous appearance; but the want of variety in the foreground is much relieved by the view of the grand mountain range, which bounds the horizon to the westward. This range is distant about forty miles from Christchurch, but, in certain states of the atmosphere, is so clearly visible, that a stranger to the climate would suppose it to be within twenty. From the town, in clear weather, the mountains can be seen over a length of 200 miles, some of the highest peaks in sight being upwards of 9000 feet above the level of the sea. In winter, when the range is clothed with snow from its crest more than half way down, these Southern Alps assume an aspect of grandeur and sublimity which can be equalled in few parts of the world.

The province of Otago, which consists of the southern portion of the Middle Island, is bounded by Canterbury on the north, and by Foveaux

Straits on the south, and is the most southern of all the New Zealand colonies. This settlement was first founded, in 1847, by a body of colonists organized in, and proceeding from, Scotland, in connexion with the Free Church. For the endowment of this settlement, and of schools in connexion with it, a portion of the funds arising from the sale of lands was reserved. Recently, the fine pastoral district of Invercargill, having a sea-board on Foveaux Straits, has been separated from Otago, and created the province of Southland.

The total area of the province, including Southland, is about 30,000 square miles, nearly the same size as Scotland, containing ujwards of 17,000,000 acres, of which 10,000,000 are estimated as being available for agricultural and pastoral purposes. The great range of the Southern Alps runs through the western portion of the province, which is a wild, rugged, and broken region, some of the mountains almost rivalling those of Switzerland in altitude and grandeur, - and presenting oven more desolate and barren-looking solitudes. Mount Aspiring forms a magnificent spectacle, not only owing to its great altitude, viz., 9135 feet above the sea, but on account of the remarkable form of its stoop cone or spire. The mountains in the vicinity of the lakes, which are themselves 1000 feet or more above the sea, rise to an altitude of over 7000 feet, and are covered with perpetual snow. There are three large lakes in the interior of the province, of which the Hawea and Wanaka are the most remarkable; from these the Clutha, which exceeds in

PROVINCE OF OTAGO.

volume any river in the island, takes its immediate source, draining the central basin, and rolling its vast volume of cold, clear, blue water towards the sea, winding its course along one of the largest and most fertile valleys in New Zealand. Several other large rivers flow through the extensive plains, watering tracts of country highly favourable for pasturage, amongst which may be mentioned the Waitangi, which takes its rise in Mount Cook, and, flowing eastward to the Pacific, forms the northern boundary of the province, separating it from that of Canterbury. The Waiou, which falls into the ocean westward of Foveaux Straits; and the New River, having a harbour at its mouth, on which stands Invercargill, the capital of Southland.

The western coast of Otago presents a totally different aspect from the eastern. It abounds in magnificent harbours, capable of holding the largest vessels in the world; but beautiful as those harbours are, they are almost useless from two causes. Many of them are so deep that no ship's cable could touch the bottom, whilst the range of inaccessible mountains that skirts the heads of these western harbours prevents all access to the interior of the country, as far as is yet known.

The harbour of Otago, from which this province derives its name, is an arm of the sea, fourteen miles long, running inland from the east coast, and presenting scenery of uncommon beauty, not unlike that of the Trosachs in Scotland. The hills that surround it are of every form, densely wooded, and of most luxuriant vegetation.

Dunedin, the capital of the province, stands at the head of Otago Harbour, and is almost embosomed in hills. Previous to the discovery of the gold fields in 1861, the town was making very satisfactory progress; streets were being levelled and metalled, and houses were everywhere springing up with a rapidity only to be seen in the colonies. There is a good jetty, at which vessels lie alongside; and Otago possesses quite a fleet of steamers, and carries on a flourishing trade with other colonial ports in New Zealand and Australia. There are good government offices, churches and chapels, several large hotels, a mechanics' institute, an hospital, and a jail. The houses have hitherto been mostly built of wood, but there are excellent stone quarries within a short distance of the town, and the latter material will no doubt soon supersede the former in the erection of more permanent dwellings.

Dunedin, before the gold discoveries in Otago, was a quiet, unassuming little town; now it is entering upon a fresh phase of its existence. On every side, handsome shops, fine hotels, and substantial stores, are rising, where, only a very few years ago, the flax grew wild. Streets are being cut through hills, cavities filled, pavements laid, new jetties constructed, street lamps erected, and a variety of other improvements taking place, which will go far to make Dunedin more worthy of being the capital of a gold-producing province, and one of the most important cities, eventually, in New Zealand. The present population of Dunedin is estimated at about 18,000 souls.

GOLD FIELDS: INVERCARGILL.

Port Chalmers is some eleven miles from Dunedin, abreast of the anchorage for large vessels. Steam communication is constantly kept up between the port and Dunedin.

Roads are now being made into the interior in the directions of the various gold fields; and lines of coaches traverse places where, at one time, it was a matter of difficulty for a horseman to pursue his way. The inland navigation of the rivers by means of steamers is also being developed, and agricultural and pastoral pursuits have been greatly stimulated by the augmented population. The principal gold fields are those of Tuapeka, about fifty miles from Dunedin; the Waitahuna, nine miles nearer; the Waipori, the Dunstan, and the Lindis; but the whole country appears to be more or less auriferous. Gold has also been found in Southland, extending almost to the sea coast; and a "rush" has lately been made to the Wakatipu diggings from Invercargill.

The town of Invercargill, the capital of the infant province of Southland is situated at the head of the estuary of the New River, on Foveaux Straits, and has already made good progress. As the outlet of an extensive pastoral country, it will probably become in time one of the most important towns in the Middle Island. Townships have also been laid out at Jacob's River, Redston, Moeraki, Oamani, and other places; and the younger province bids fair to keep pace with the progress of Otago, with which it must continue to be intimately connected, and dependent in a great measure upon its prosperity.

The government of the entire colony is vested in a governor, appointed by the crown, and a general assembly, consisting of two houses, one elected by the people, the other nominated by the crown for life. Each of the nine provinces has a local government, consisting of a superintendent, and a provincial council, both elected by the people, and which have power to make laws within the province on all subjects except such as are specially reserved for the general assembly.

The European population in 1860 was estimated in the various provinces as follows: – In the North Island: Auckland, 22,159; Taranaki, 1312; Wellington, 18,470; Hawke's Bay, 2037; total, 40,248. In the Middle Island: Nelson, including Marlborough, 10,000; Canterbury, 14,107; Otago, 10,456; total, 84,563. Thus making the grand total 71,456.

The European population of each province, according to the census of 1864, was as follows: –

Auckland ..... 37,008

Taranaki ....... 1,398

Wellington ....... 14,938

Hawke's Bay ...... 4,107

Nelson ........ 11,922

Marlborough...... 5,349

Canterbury...... 32,253

Otago........ 48,998

Southland....... 8,075

Total ......... 164,048

Showing an increase, since 1860, of 92,592.

NATIVE POPDLATION: CLIMATE.

The native population, which is almost exclusively confined to the Northern Island (that of the Middle Island altogether not exceeding 2300 in number), does not now probably amount to more than 50,000, although twenty years ago it was estimated by the missionaries as high as 200,000. The continuous decrease of the native or Maori race is borne out by the statements of all those who are capable of forming an opinion; and although to a certain extent an amalgamation has taken place between the two races by marriages of native women with Europeans, there is but little doubt that at no very distant period the New Zealander will have all but disappeared before the Anglo-Saxon.

The climate of New Zealand seems to be well adapted to the English constitution, and is undoubtedly one of the most healthy to be found in any part of the globe. It possesses the best qualities of both the English and the Australian climates, without the disadvantages of either. It has the mild winters, the clear sky, and pure atmosphere of the latter, free from its hot winds and long-continued droughts; whilst it has the temperate summers of the former, without its dreary winters and severe frosts. In the spring and early summer there is much wind; and in the winter very heavy rains, with rough tempestuous weather, occur at times for several days together, especially about Cook's Straits and to the southward. In the North Island snow very rarely falls, except upon the mountains. All the grains, vegetables, and plants cultivated in England succeed equally well in New Zealand;

whilst in the north some of the productions of warmer and even tropical climates, such as Indian corn or maize, millet, sweet potatoes, tobacco, grapes, bananas, figs, peaches, melons, and cape gooseberries, are raised without difiiculty in the open air.

The province of Otago, lying as it does so far to the southward, possesses a much colder and more variable climate than that of the northern provinces, or even of those along the southern shores of Cook's Straits. Though very healthy and exhilarating, it is liable to great extremes, though not so much of temperature. It is either brilliantly fine, wet, or boisterous. When the weather is fine, brighter skies or more glorious sunshine are never to be found in Italy or Greece; but when a wet south-wester, or a drivelling south-east wind sets in, nothing can be conceived more dreary and comfortless; and as these are liable to occur at all seasons, summer may be turned into winter in a few hours. On the elevated ranges the cold of winter is very severe, and a fire, even in summer, is often desirable, and always pleasant of an evening.

The existence of gold in New Zealand had been known for some years, and a paying gold field was being worked at Coromandel Harbour, in the North Island, when, in 1861, the discovery of the Otago diggings at Tuapeka, fifty miles inland from the settlement of Dunedin, was announced. In August and September of the same year, 6000 persons were reported to be at work there, and upwards of 25,000 ounces of gold had been realized; and, by the end of September, 10,000 persons had left

HOKITIKA GOLD DIGGINGS.

Melbourne alone for this new El Dorado in the Middle Island.

A mighty change seems to be dawning over the destiny of New Zealand. The sand on its seashore, the rivers flowing through the length and breadth of its land, and the mountain ranges from the north to the south of each island, all seem impregnated with gold to a greater or lesser degree. The Hokitika diggings, since they have been worked, a period of only a few months, have turned out about 700,000l. worth of the precious metal. A correspondent from that locality writes as follows:

"And as to the reality of the ground as a gold field, I think there cannot be much doubt, when, within one month, more than 45,000 ounces of gold were exported, and I doubt not the present month will be far in excess of this. A few days ago I happened to be out riding, and selected the beach north of the town, on which to take exercise, and found the whole beach for miles was being occupied with diggers, who are mining just above high-water mark, and are washing out of the sea-sand sufficient gold to produce from 5l. to 20l. per week per man. In fact, nearly the whole coast from the Grey River down to Bruce Bay is a magnificent gold field; and inland, too, for miles, men are gradually extending the field. During the last fortnight there have been several rushes up to the foot of the snowcapped Southern Alps, where the diggers are finding good, payable gold."

The total value of New Zealand gold exported from the colony, up to the 80th of June, 1865, was

7,646,809l., and the number of ources was 1,974,667. The principal localities from whence the gold has been obtained hitherto have been Otago and Christchurch provinces, but the whole of New Zealand is believed by geologists to be auriferous.

By the last advices from New Zealand (bearing date March 20th, 1866), the yield of gold was still increasing; over 100,000 ounces were procured from the various diggings during the previous month alone. New Zealand presents, besides gold, numerous other indications of mineral wealth. Copper, silver, and iron, with coal, sulphur, and manganese have been discovered. Lead ore, tin ore, and what is supposed to be nickel, have been detected. In the province of Wellington a natural brass, composed of copper and zinc, has been found, but richer in copper than manufactured brass usually is. Limestone, marble, and potter's clay are also abundant in some parts of the country; and fine samples of chrome and plumbago, as well as platinum and titanium have been sent to England recently from the province of Nelson, in the Middle Island.

The history of the New Zealand settlements, although so brief in regard to time, exhibits on the whole, one of the most striking amongst the many triumphs of modern colonization. Enjoying a salubrious and delightful climate, the great prosperity of the colonists was accompanied by a corresponding advance on the part of the aboriginal population. Inspired by the example of the Europeans, the natives tilled the lands bequeathed

FEUDS BETWEEN NATIVES AND COLONISTS.

them by their ancestors, and, in their own vehicles and canoes, as well as in small vessels owned by them, conveyed the produce of their labour to the markets of the colonists. The native and the white population having been alike declared subjects of the crown, had equal rights, civil and political, and the success of the missionaries amongst the former seemed to promise a bright future for New Zealand. But a rude and sudden reverse came over the scene. The outbreak at the Bay of Islands, led by the rebel chief Heki, who cut down the British flagstaff there in 1844, had long ago been subdued, and the matter all but forgotten during the peaceful years that succeeded it, when the beginning of the year 1860 brought threatenings of a native outbreak; and in a few months afterwards a savage and sanguinary warfare was being carried on between the natives and the colonists, in which the barbaric arts of a courageous and sanguinary race, aided by the natural features of their country, have long been opposed in vain by effective arms and disciplined regiments. Although in the following year the natives received a severe defeat from the British troops, and obtained a truce for three days, they rejected the only terms on which the colonial government could treat with them; their white flag was withdrawn, and replaced with the red ensign of war. Since that period a sort of guerilla warfare has been more or less constantly carried on by the rebel tribes against the whites; the natives have defended themselves in strongly fortified and almost inaccessible "pahs;" and during some of the attacks great slaughter has

taken place on both sides. Very recently, however, the rebels on the east coast have been defeated with heavy loss, and upwards of 180 of them have surrendered. One hundred and twenty guns, and a large quantity of ammunition have been captured by the British forces, and the rebels at Poverty Bay have evacuated all their fortified strongholds. On the west coast the natives have also been repulsed with great slaughter, so that from the latest accounts the war may be said to be virtually over. A correspondent, writing from Auckland, in January, 1866, says, "Our war may be said to be burning itself out, and leaving only its embers in the shape of debt and ruination to remind us of its once active character. There are, however, a few sparks every now and then emitted, by which we can judge that the fire of the rebellion is still smouldering in the breasts of the rebel Maories, and it requires only a fitting opportunity to display itself against us in a hostile manner. But the rebels now find that their opportunities for doing us any material injury are but few, and during the coming year thoy will prove, from the measures that are now being taken by the present government, yet more rare, until at last the whole race will arrive at the conviction that it were better for them to live in peace and happiness with their white brethren, than to continue to war against them, and thus accelerate that fate which it appears they are doomed to experience."

The immediate cause of this long and harassing war arose out of the sale of a piece of land by a native chief to the colonial government. The right

THE CHATHAM ISLANDS.

of this chief to sell the land in question was disputed by another chief of the same tribe, Wiremu Kingi, who, whilst admitting the proprietary rights of the other, yet asserted the tribal power to veto the sale. The government however recognized Te Teira's right to sell, concluded the bargain, and took practical possession by surveying the ground. This procedure caused the opposition of Wiremu Kingi and his party, which soon took the form of warlike hostilities; and the disaffection on the land question, which had long been smouldering, spread itself rapidly amongst other tribes, who rallied to the standard of the rebel chief.

Up to the commencement of the present year the war in New Zealand has cost 764,829l. The imperial troops are now being gradually sent from the colony; and in future the colonists will have to rely chiefly upon their own colonial corps, their brave volunteers, and their now numerous native allies.

The Chatham Islands are situated about 380 miles to the eastward of New Zealand. They were discovered, in 1791, by Lieutenant Broughton in the brig "Chatham" when on a voyage round the world with Vancouver, and were named after that vessel. The largest island (Chatham Island) is nearly ninety miles in circumference, about one third of its surface being productive, and covered with low bush; whilst a considerable tract is described as consisting of peat, in many places fifty feet deep. In several parts of the island this peat has been on fire for years, burning at a considerable depth below the surface. It is well wooded in places, and abounds

with the Phormium tenax, or New Zealand flax. The other islands of the group, Pitt Island and Southeast Island, are smaller; the coasts are rocky, and the surface is generally hilly, with swamps and marshes intervening. The productions of the Chatham Islands generally resemble those of New Zealand. These islands are much resorted to by whalers for the purpose of obtaining supplies. The original inhabitants are said to have been a very harmless race; but they were almost annihilated by a tribe of New Zealanders, who invaded Chatham Island about the year 1832, from Cook's Straits. A very interesting notice of these people has been lately given in the Journal of the Linnean Society of London, by Mr. Travers, who visited the Chatham Islands in 1864. He says, "The remnant of the More-ores (the name given to the aboriginal inhabitants), exclusive of the few who are still retained in slavery, is settled at Ohangi, on the south-east side of the island. They do not exceed 200 in number, and are rapidly decreasing. Before the invasion of the New Zealanders, the More-ores were very numerous, numbering little short of 1500 people. They are much shorter, but stouter built than the New Zealanders, and have darker skins, but the same straight, coarse hair; their faces are rounder, and more pleasing in expression; their noses are Roman in shape, resembling those of the Jews. They never tattooed; and although they originally practised cannibalism, they had discontinued it before the arrival of the New Zealanders. They appear to have been a very cheerful people,

ABORIGINES OF THE CHATHAM ISLANDS.

fond of singing and of telling laughable stories. They built no huts, merely using a few branches of trees stuck into the ground as a shelter from the wind. They had no canoes, there being no timber on the islands sufficiently large for constructing them; but they formed rafts of the flower-stalks of the Phormium tenax, lashed together with supple-jack, and having an upright wooden stem, ingeniously carved. The paddles were shaped like a spade, and were used at the stern of the rafts. They made stone axes similar to those of the New Zealanders; and these, with clubs, &c., formed their weapons. They had no idea of a god, nor, as far as I could learn, of evil spirits. Their mode of disposing of the dead had special reference to the particular fancy or vocation of the living subjects. If the dead person had been a good fisherman, for example, his body was lashed in a sitting posture to a raft, and sent adrift with a baited line in its hand. If he had no particular vocation, he was put, in a sitting posture, into an open hole in the ground, usually about eighteen inches deep, with any favourite piece of carved wood stuck up before him. The islands were invaded, in 1832 or 1835, by the New Zealanders, by whom large numbers of the aborigines were killed and eaten. In fact, this expedition may be said to have been undertaken solely for the latter purpose; a New Zealander, who happened to have visited the islands whilst engaged as a seaman in a vessel trading from Sydney, having reported the aborigines as a plump, well-fed race, who would fall easy victims to the prowess of his countrymen.

By a refinement of cannibal cruelty, the unfortunate wretches were compelled to carry the wood and prepare the ovens in which they were to be cooked. Such of them as were destined for the nonce to be eaten were then laid in a row upon the ground adjoining the ovens, and were killed by blows from a 'mere' by one of the New Zealand chiefs."

Several European settlers, with their families, at present reside on both Pitt and Chatham Islands; and the entire Maori population, who are now Christianized, and have two places of worship belonging to them, do not exceed from 400 to 450 in number.

About 180 miles to the south of New Zealand, in latitude 50 deg. 40' S., are the Auckland Isles, discovered by Captain Bristow in 1807. The principal island is thirty miles long by fifteen across, with an elevated coast line, and a lofty mountain visible at a distance of fifty miles. The smaller islands are Enderby, Disappointment, and Adam's Islands. They are of volcanic formation, are well covered with vegetation, and the forests contain trees of large size. The forests skirting the shores are composed of dense thickets of stag-headed trees, so gnarled and stunted by the violence of the ocean gales, as to afford an excellent shelter for a luxuriant undergrowth of bright green feathery ferns, and several gay-flowered herbs.

The climate is described as mild, temperate, and salubrious – the mercury never standing lower than 38 deg. in the valleys, even in the middle of winter, and the trees retaining their verdure throughout the

THE AUCKLAND ISLANDS.

year. The only indigenous quadrupeds are rats; but there are many beautiful singing birds, and the coasts abound with fish. Pigs, goats, and rabbits, have been introduced by the whalers. The largest island has three excellent harbours, the entrances to which are from the eastward. It has lately been occupied by the Messrs. Enderby as a central whaling station, they having obtained a grant of it from the British government for that purpose.

Campbell Island lies to the south of the Auckland Islands, and was first seen by Captain Hazelburgh in 1810. It is about thirty miles in circumference. Sir James Ross visited this island in 1840, and found there the remains of some huts, and also the graves of several seamen who had been employed in the South Sea fishery.

CHAPTER VII. THE NEW ZEALANDERS.

CHAPTER VII.

THE NEW ZEALANDERS.

NEW ZEALAND WAR-HOUSE.

THE New Zealanders belong to the light-coloured or true Polynesian race, which peoples all the Pacific islands to the eastward of the Figis. In personal appearance and language they bear considerable resemblance to the Sandwich Islanders

PERSONAL APPEARANCE.

and the Samoans, as they also do in many of their habits and customs; although, from the effects of a colder and more bracing climate, they are a more athletic and vigorous race. Still, there appears to be no doubt of their common origin with these people, and that at some remote period of time they reached New Zealand from the eastward, as all their traditions state.

The men of New Zealand are generally tall and muscular; some of the chiefs are above the average height of Europeans, and but few incline to obesity. The women, on the other hand, are rather short in stature, plump, and well made; their hands and feet being frequently small and well proportioned. Their complexion varies greatly in different individuals; sometimes it is no darker than that of the peasants of Italy or Spain, at others it is considerably deeper in shade; the higher classes being much fairer than the people of inferior birth, as is the case throughout Polynesia generally.

Their hair is remarkably black, glossy, and luxuriant, though somewhat coarse; that of the men was formerly tied up in a knot at the crown of the head, and ornamented with feathers; they now usually crop it short, after the fashion of Europeans. The women wear theirs long, and mostly loose, flowing over the shoulders; the girls let it fall over the forehead, cropping it in a straight line, about an inch above the eyebrows. Instances occur where the hair is brown and in clustering curls; and also, though rarely, of a flaxen or golden colour. Children having flaxen hair, are called "tikis," and

are much admired. The hair on the head of a chief is a very sacred object, and the operation of cutting it is accompanied with certain customs, connected with "tapu."

The eyes of both sexes are almost invariably dark hazel, and those of the young people are large and beautiful; but the effect of constantly sitting over the smoke of their wood fires soon destroys the beauty of their eyes, which in the old people are bloodshot and contracted. The countenances of some of the chiefs indicate a great degree of intelligence, and are totally without any savage expression; whilst the nobleness of their aspect and bearing at once proclaims their superiority over most uncivilized races of man. It is only in moments of passion and excitement that their countenances are lighted up with ferocity; at other times they display a combination of dignity and mildness which is sure to win the confidence of a stranger.

The younger women of the better class, such as the daughters of some of the important chiefs, may lay claim to be considered handsome; they possess a gipsy-like style of beauty, which is heightened by a natural modesty and bashfulness. They frequently form matrimonial alliances with Europeans, and the result of these marriages is the finest race of half-castes, perhaps, in the world. The slave women, on the other hand, are about as coarse and unprepossessing as the daughters of the chiefs are pleasing and comely.

Infanticide was formerly practised to a great

TATTOOING.

extent; but the efforts of the missionaries, and increasing intercourse with Europeans, have done much towards abolishing this horrid custom.

Like other Polynesians, the New Zealanders are excessively fond of their children; and the father frequently spends a considerable portion of his time in nursing his infant, who nestles in his blanket, and is lulled to rest by some native song. The children are cheerful and lively, full of vivacity and intelligence. They pass their early years almost without restraint, amusing themselves with various games, such as flying kites formed of leaves, throwing mimic spears made of fern stalks; or sailing their little flax canoes on the rivers, or watching them tossed about by the waves of the sea.

Tattooing, so prevalent throughout central Polynesia, where, in the Marquesas, it assumes the most elaborate designs over the whole body, is confined, amongst the New Zealanders, to the face and thighs. This process is undergone at intervals from the period of arriving at manhood; the operation is tedious, and attended with the most excruciating pain. The "tohungas," or priests, were generally the operators in the ceremony of tattooing; they being considered to excel in the art of carving, both in wood and on flesh. The ornaments consist of spiral lines on the cheeks, and nose, and round the mouth; with radiating ones from the eyebrows across the forehead. In character these designs resemble the patterns of their carvings on their canoes and houses. The instrument used to produce them is a little chisel made of bone, which is

driven into the skin by blows from a small mallet. The point of the chisel is repeatedly dipped into a mixture of resin and charcoal, which, after the wounds have healed, renders the lines of an indelible blue colour. Amongst the chiefs it would formerly have been considered the greatest disgrace not to have been tattooed; and none but slaves were without the spiral carving of the face, considered so indispensable to men of birth and courage. At the present time, however, many of the sons of influential chiefs, adopting as they do in dress and manners the customs of the Europeans, have dispensed with this peculiar and barbarous disfigurement, and persons may be met with, who, having discontinued the custom on embracing Christianity, display one side of their face only, or a portion of their features, decorated with the "moko," as the tattooing is called. With the women the tattooing of the face only extends to the lips and chin; and in a very few instances their ankles are also tattooed. It is a reproach to a woman to have red lips; and on arriving at a proper age they are rendered blue by pricking them all over, and then rubbing in soot or charcoal.

Polygamy was customary amongst them prior to the introduction of Christianity; but even then the women occupied a high position in the social scale, many of the wives of important chiefs possessing considerable influence over their tribes.

Before the introduction of Christianity, the New Zealanders believed in the existence of invisible spirits, which they termed "atuas," or gods, to

NATIVE WAR IMPLEMENTS.

which they ascribed the form of a lizard. They affirmed that after death the soul goes to the "reinga," a place of future abode, which they supposed was approached only down the face of a steep precipice, at the northernmost extremity of the North Island; which place is known as Cape Maria Van Diemen.

Although fire-arms have now almost entirely supplanted the native implements of war, a brief notice of the latter may be interesting. In battle, each chief always carried a staff of very hard wood with a carved, head, the sharp point of which, designed to resemble the human tongue thrust out in defiance, was urged forward as a mark of insult to the enemy; the eyes were made of pieces of pearl-shell inserted on each side, and the staff was still further ornamented with red parrots' feathers, and tufts of dogs' hair. This staff, called "e hani," was also carried in the circle of debate; the chief, whilst speaking, running up and down, and holding in his hand the ornamented "hani." The "meri," or war club, was a flattened oval weapon, from one to two feet in length, used in single combat. It was either made out of a bone of the whale or of green jade. This weapon was fastened by a flax cord round the arm, which confined it to the wrist, when in use. Another weapon was the "patu," a light wooden instrument about four feet long, having a semicircular head like a chopper, sharp towards the edge, and generally adorned with a bunch of "kaka" feathers, the handle being frequently carved. A spear, about twelve feet long, was mentioned by Captain Cook as being in use in the last century, but it is now

obsolete. The tomahawk, now so extensively used by the New Zealanders, was introduced by English and American whalers. Many of the iron heads of tomahawks thus procured are set upon handles of native manufacture, formed of either wood or bone, and often beautifully carved in the usual grotesque patterns.

Grand feasts take place on certain important occasions. At such periods the improvident natives will prepare for the entertainment by raising an extra quantity of provisions of all kinds; and then, owing to the extravagant waste that takes place during the festivity, they submit to be half starved for months afterwards.

At one feast of this sort, given by a chief in the neighbourhood of Auckland to the surrounding tribes, the row of blankets intended as presents to his friends, with the roast pigs, and the baskets of potatoes and dried fish piled up together, exceeded a mile in length. Thousands of natives were assembled, many of them having come distances of two hundred miles. The war dance was performed at intervals during the feasting, and the entertainment kept up for several days, until all the supplies were either wasted or devoured.

The New Zealanders generally have but two meals a day – one in the morning, the other at sunset – these consist usually of potatoes, steamed in a native oven between heated stones, or boiled in an iron pot: their drink is water, contained in calabashes. The food is served in baskets made of flax, or of the long narrow leaves of the Freycinetia Banksii, plaited coarsely together. These baskets are made

THE "TAPU."

by the women whilst the food is cooking, and are thrown aside when the repast is over. The New Zealanders are very particular about their food; for instance, it must always be consumed in the open air, and never in a sleeping-house; neither may any one eat in a canoe, but must wait till they land. No food is permitted to touch the head or hair of a chief, which is sacred; and if food is mentioned in connection with anything sacred (or "tapu"), it is considered as an insult, and revenged as such. The law of "tapu" is general amongst the Polynesian race. In New Zealand it is carried to a great extent. The laying on of the "tapu" literally means to pronounce the individual or article in question so tapued, to be sacred for a greater or less period of time. Burial-places, articles consecrated to the dead, property left in an uninhabited place, the maize and "kumera" (or sweet potato) plantations, and various other objects, are made "tapu;" an entire pah, or village, is often laid under the same restriction, as are roads, houses, and canoes. An individual who has been sick is "tapu," until a certain period after his recovery; and the head, and frequently the whole person of a chief is strictly "tapu;" so is a girl when betrothed in marriage; and a wife is always "tapu" to every one but her husband.

On the death of a chief, a great lamentation ensues, which is called a "tangi." The women cut their arms and lacerate their faces and breasts in a dreadful manner, with the sharp broken pieces of mussels and other shells, until they become covered

with blood. The clothes and property of a deceased chief are usually buried with him; or they are collected together, and placed in a "wahi tapu," or sacred enclosure, surrounded with a fence, where they rot away, exposed to the winds and the weather. The body is enclosed in a mausoleum of carved woodwork within the "pah" for several months, and at the expiration of this period, the ceremony of "lifting the bones" takes place, which is performed bv the nearest relative of the deceased. The bones, after being well scraped and cleaned, are then deposited in a box, and buried.

The usual mode of salutation amongst the New Zealanders is that of pressing their noses together. When friends meet, who have been separated for some time, a "tangi," or crying, takes place, the parties sitting in silence opposite to each other for perhaps half an hour, exchanging no words, but uttering melancholy wailings; then, all of a sudden, they approach, press noses, and commence laughing and chatting in the most lively manner possible.

The New Zealanders bury their dead, usually erecting some sort of carved wooden monument, or half a canoe set up on end, above the graves of their more important personages. Mr. Angas's description of the tomb of a chief, which he visited at Queen Charlotte's Sound, will give an idea of these places of sepulture generally. He says, "We arrived at the village of Huriwenua, the gaily ornamented tomb of the late chief forming a conspicuous object in the centre. Not a living soul was to be seen; the village, with its neat houses, built of 'raupo,'

TOMB OF A CHIEF.

and its court-yards, and provision boxes raised on poles, was entirely deserted. From the moment the chief was wrapped in his war mats, and laid beneath the upright canoe, on which was inscribed his name and rank, the whole village became strictly 'tapu,' or sacred; and not a native, on pain of death, was permitted to trespass near the spot: the houses were all fastened up, and on most of the doors were inscriptions, denoting that the property of such an one remained there. On arriving at the tomb, I was struck with the contrast between the monument of the savage and that of the civilized European; in the erection of the latter, marble and stone, and the most durable of metals are employed: rapidly-decaying wood, red ochre, and feathers, form the decorations of the Maori tomb. Hiriwenua, having been buried only six weeks, the ornaments of the 'wahi tapu,' or 'sacred place,' as these erections are termed, remained fresh and uninjured by the weather. The central upright canoe was richly painted with black and red, and at the top was written the name of the chief; above which there hung in clusters bunches of 'kaka' feathers, forming a large mass at the summit of the canoe. A double fence of high paling, also painted red, and ornamented with devices in arabesque work, extended round the grave; and at every fastening of flax, where the horizontal rails were attached to the upright fencing, were stuck two feathers of the albatross, the snowy whiteness of which contrasted beautifully with the sombre black and red of the remainder of the monument."

The New Zealanders were formerly celebrated for the large size, elegance, and rich carving of their war canoes. At the period of Captain Cook's first visit, double canoes of great size were observed amongst them, though none of these are to he seen at the present day. In former times large fieets of canoes often went on war excursions to different parts of the island; and as the country is everywhere intersected with considerable rivers, and contains many lakes, the canoes were dragged from one to the other. Some of their war canoes were eighty feet long, and would carry upwards of one hundred warriors. They were made of "kauri" or "totara" pine, and had gunwales on their sides, firmly attached by flax cords; they were gaily painted red, with ochre and oil, and ornamented with a profusion of bunches of white feathers along the gunwale. The head and stern-post were richly carved with spiral work and grotesque human figures, streamers of feathers flying from the latter. When not used, these war canoes were preserved under long sheds, thatched with reeds, to protect them from the weather. The ordinary canoes employed on the lakes and rivers are about thirty or forty feet long, and are propelled by broad paddles with handles, the natives shouting and singing as they proceed, all keeping time together with their paddles.

The New Zealander has a fixed and settled habitation: he either resides in his "pah," which is a fortified stockade, or in a village, or native settlement, which is not enclosed, where the houses are

"PAHS" AND DWELLINGS.

scattered about here and there. In times of warfare the whole tribe was accustomed to seek refuge within the "pah," which was generally erected on the summit of a steep hill, on an island, or on a headland jutting out into a river or the sea. The "pah" was surrounded with one or more lines of strong high fencing, with large posts at intervals, on which were carved figures of men painted red. The interior was divided, by means of lower pallisades, into numerous court-yards, communicating with each other by means of stiles. In each court stands the house and cook-house, as well as the elevated "patuka," or store for food, of one or more families. The dwelling-house, and frequently the store-house, is ornamented with grotesque carving, the fronts being coloured red. The cook-house is merely a shed built of posts or slabs of wood, placed several inches apart, so as to admit the air and let out the smoke, and roofed with beams and a thatch of reeds. In these houses the domestic operations of cooking and preparing corn, &c., are carried on during wet weather. The sleeping or dwelling houses are partly sunk in the ground, and are always built with a gable roof and a verandah, where the occupants generally sit. The inner chamber serves as a sleeping-apartment, and towards evening is heated by means of a fire in the centre; after the family enters for the night, the door and window are tightly closed, and in this almost suffocating atmosphere the inhabitants pass the night; when day comes, they creep out of the low door into the sharp morning air, dripping with perspiration.

The houses of the chiefs were formerly conspicuous objects in a New Zealand "pah" or village. They had a gable roof thatched with reeds, with a verandah in front; the wood-work being elaborately carved in grotesque shapes, representing human figures, with the tongue protruding, as if in defiance towards those who may approach. The whole of this carved work was painted red, with an ochre, called "kokowai." The interior of these houses consists of a large chamber twenty or thirty feet long, with a door and small window opening into the verandah in front. This verandah is about twelve feet deep, having the ridge-pole, and the flat frame-boards of the roof inside richly painted in spiral arabesques of black and red, the margin of each spiral being dotted with white spots, which adds richness to the effect. The spaces between the wood-work are filled up with variegated reeds, beautifully arranged, and fastened together with strips of flax, dyed red, and tied crosswise, so as to present the appearance of ornamental basket-work. Above the centre of the gable-roofed portico is generally fixed a carved wooden figure of a man with protruding tongue, and eyes inlaid with pearl shell. Sometimes, to this image a beard of dogs' tails is attached. Within the centre of the house is another larger figure, richly carved, which supports, by a pillar from its head, the ridge-pole of the roof.

Their plantations and potato grounds are often extensive in the neighbourhood of their villages. The latter are clearings from the forest, where the

STORE HOUSES: FLAX GARMENTS.

best soil is to be met with. As during certain seasons of the year they are constantly at work in these gardens, they erect temporary sheds, and long thatched buildings, under which to repose in wet weather, and also for the purpose of cooking their meals. Picturesque-looking store-houses for seed are also to be seen in their clearings; these are like large boxes, with a gable roof, and perhaps a carved door, with a little image on the top, and are supported on high poles, to preserve them from the attacks of the rats, the natives ascending to them by means of a sort of rude ladder.

The "kumera," or sweet potato, is extensively cultivated, and is esteemed sacred by the natives, many ceremonies being connected with its planting and propagation. It is chiefly eaten on the arrival of strangers, or upon the occasion of feasts and other ceremonies.

Before the introduction of blankets, the clothing of the New Zealanders consisted almost exclusively of garments manufactured from the fibres of the native flax. These garments, or "mats," as they are generally termed, display great ingenuity and taste in their fabrication; the threads are interwoven longitudinally, with others placed crosswise, and every thread is carefully fastened at intervals of about half an inch. The making of these garments rests entirely with the women; who construct within their dwellings a framework of upright sticks, before which they will sit for hours, busily employed in tying and arranging the threads, and passing the time in social gossip.

Both summer and winter dresses are composed of flax: the rougher garments, made of the dried leaves, fastened into a fabric of stout fibres, are very warm, and impervious to the rain, giving the wearer, when sitting down, somewhat the appearance of a thatched hay-cock. The mat most generally worn is the black-string mat called "e koroai," a flax dress thickly ornamented with black strings or filaments, about a foot long, which have a very graceful appearance as they hang over the folds of the drapery. Another kind is adorned with tufts or bosses of coloured wool, and has black strings here and there at intervals. Before the introduction of wool, scarlet feathers were employed for the ornamentation of these dresses. Frequently the winter mats or cloaks are thickly covered with strips of flax leaves, rolled up like tubes, and dyed black at alternate intervals, resembling porcupine's quills; these dangle from the garment, and produce a loud rustling noise as they jostle together at every movement of the wearer. The "topuni," or war mat, belongs exclusively to the men, and is only possessed by the chiefs, who assume it on all occasions of ceremony or importance. The "topuni" consists of a large flax cloak, into which is fastened, with every thread, a portion of dog's hair, assorted into various colours, having the exact appearance of a beautiful fur. The patterns are varied and handsome; they are often of a pure white, bordered with a broad band of black: others are varied with black and brown or black and white hair, arranged in narrow stripes. These war mats have a shaggy

ORNAMENTS.

collar, composed of strips of fur about six inches long, which falls over the shoulders.

The most beautiful and valued of all these garments is the "kaitaka," or finest flax mat, wrought out of a species of Phormium, cultivated especially for the purpose, the fibres of which almost resemble silk: the whole surface is plain; the ornament being confined entirely to the border, which is, in some cases, a couple of feet in depth, and of the richest character, beautifully worked in vandyke patterns of black, red, and white. The natives about the East Cape excel in the manufacture of these elegant and delicate mats; the women frequently devoting a period of two years to the production of a superior "kaitaka."

The New Zealanders are very partial to ornaments, and adorn their heads with a variety of feathers, and occasionally with the blossoms of the clematis, the metrosideros, and the hoya. Amongst the feathers employed, those of the tail of the Neomorpha Gouldii have a beautiful appearance; they are black, tipped with white; and small carved boxes are used by the chiefs in which to keep them. Bunches of the white feathers of the albatross are frequently worn in the ears of both sexes, as are also small birds; or, at times, the wings of the eagle, or the hawk, are fastened on either side of the head, producing an effect like the winged cap of Mercury.

The most prized ornaments amongst them are those manufactured of nephrite or green jade, which is found at a lake in the Middle Island,

and called "poonamu" by the natives. Some of these ornaments are in the form of ear-drops, varying in form, and in length, from two to five or six inches. Around the neck is worn a small ludicrous figure, representing a man of grotesque proportions, with large red eyes, which is formed out of semi-transparent green jade. These little images are highly prized as heir-looms or charms, passing from one generation to another; and it is with much difficulty a native can be persuaded to part with one. The tooth of the tiger-shark, drilled, and the end covered with red wax, is also an esteemed ornament as an ear-drop.

The only native musical instrument of the New Zealanders was one resembling a small flute, which was played by the nose. It was made cither of wood or of human bone – generally of the leg bone of an enemy; and when this was the case, it was highly valued as a trophy, and richly carved.

Their principal amusements are draughts, singing, and dancing; they also play at ball, swing, and throw the spear. The war-dance was by far the most exciting of all their heathen exercises, and was performed before commencing battle. The purpose of this savage dance was to excite their warriors to the highest pitch of fury, and to bid defiance to the enemy; accordingly, in its celebration, the tongue is thrust out with the most insulting grimaces, the limbs are distorted, the whites of the eyes are turned up, and the dancing is accompanied with ribald and aggravating songs. On these occasions they bedaub their bodies with

CANNIBALISM.

red ochre, the warriors fighting naked, their heads only being ornamented with the feathers of the "huia."

Cannibalism was formerly prevalent amongst the New Zealanders. The implacable desire of revenge which is characteristic of these people, and the belief that the strength and courage of a devoured enemy are transferred to him who eats him, were, without question, the causes of this unnatural taste – not the pleasure of devouring human flesh, which was certainly secondary, and, besides, not at all general. A chief was often satisfied with the left eye of his enemy, which was regarded as the seat of the soul. They likewise drank the blood, from a similar belief. The heads of vanquished enemies were stuck up on poles round their "pahs " or villages. Preserved New Zealand heads, which are frequently to be met with in European museums, and in the cabinets of the curious, were prepared in the following manner. If they were heads of enemies taken in battle, the lips were stretched out and sewn apart; if, on the contrary, it was the head of one of the chiefs of their own tribe, who had died, and they were preserving it with all customary honours, they sewed the lips close together in a pouting attitude. A hole was dug in the earth, and heated with red-hot stones, and then the eyes, ears, and all the orifices of the head, except the windpipe, being carefully sewn up, and the brains taken out, the aperture of the neck was placed over the mouth of the heated oven, and the head well steamed. This process was continued until the

head was completely free from moisture, and the skin perfectly cured; fern root was then thrust into the nostrils, and in this state the heads were either placed in a sacred place, and rendered "tapu," or they were bartered in exchange for muskets or blankets to the whalers and Sydney traders. To the shame of Europeans thus engaged, it must be told, that so eager were they to procure these dried heads for sale in England and elsewhere, that many chiefs were persuaded to kill their slaves, and tattoo their faces after death, to supply this unnatural demand, until the practice was put a stop to, by the New South Wales government inflicting a penalty of fifty pounds on any persons arriving in Sydney with a dried head in their possession.

Within the last half-century the moral and social condition and habits of the New Zealanders have been undergoing a great, though gradual change. Their native weapons have, to a considerable extent, been thrown aside, and muskets of European or American manufacture substituted for them, gun-powder and fire-arms being the chief articles of barter brought to the coast by vessels trading with the natives for their timber, pigs, and flax. Blankets, too, are constantly worn – these, together with the unbecoming European costume, have, unfortunately, almost superseded their beautiful native garments, made of the Phormium tenax, or New Zealand flax. This has proved to be a change for the worse; for the natives, being able to obtain blankets at an easy rate, in exchange for their pro-

FOOD: PUTRID CORN.

duce, abandon the tedious manufacture of their elaborate flax garments, and grow lazy, and consequently vicious. Their health also suffers materially from wearing blankets; they keep the skin in a state of constant irritation, and harbour vermin, and, in wet weather, retain the damp for a long period, laying the foundation for consumption and other diseases, to which the New Zealanders are now becoming subject. The introduction of potatoes has also wrought a great change in their diet. They were introduced by Captain Cook, along with maize, or Indian corn; and these two vegetables have since formed almost the entire food of the natives; those on the coast, or on the banks of the rivers and lakes, adding fish. They eat their potatoes without salt, and many, who subsist exclusively on them, do not take sufficient exercise to render such a diet wholesome. Fevers, too, occur from the frequent and abundant use of putrid corn; the natives steeping the cobs of maize in water for several weeks, until they become perfectly rotten, when they make them into a most offensive sort of gruel. Their only animal food is pork, or occasionally a few pigeons or other birds.

In the month of April, 1843, the celebrated massacre of Europeans at the Wairau Valley took place; in which tragedy the celebrated chief Rauparaha took a leading part. The occasion of dispute between the settlers and the natives was owing to the surveyors of the New Zealand Company persisting in surveying land in the valley, which the natives

alleged had not been fairly purchased from them. After burning the surveyors' huts, the natives removed the property of the Europeans, untouched, to the sea-side, and desired them to quit the place, and return across the straits from whence they came. This they refused to do, and the police magistrate at Nelson in the mean time issued a warrant against Rauparaha, on a charge of arson, and proceeded himself to execute it, with an armed force of about fifty individuals. Rauparaha said he did not want to fight, but if the white people fought he would fight too. When the dispute was at the highest, a shot, fired, as one of the survivors asserts, by a native, laid one of the Europeans dead, and at that moment Mr. Thompson gave orders to fire. The firing was kept up briskly on both sides for a few minutes, but in this skirmishing the natives had greatly the advantage, the bushes on their side affording them better concealment. As the Europeans found themselves hotly pressed, they retreated in disorder up the hill, and fled in different directions, waving a white handkerchief, and shouting "kati" (peace). The natives now ceased firing, and came up to the white men, who delivered up their arms, and were now entirely at the mercy of Rauparaha. At this crisis a chief named Puaha endeavoured to become a peacemaker, and urged on his countrymen that enough blood had been shed. The number of killed being nearly equal on both sides, this was at first acceded to by Rauparaha, and both parties, shook hands; but Rangihaeata, his great fighting man, called on him to avenge his daughter (who

THE WAIRAU MASSACRE.

had been previously killed by a chance shot), and demanded the lives of all who had surrendered. Standing in the midst of the natives, and utterly defenceless, the white men were easily separated. Rangihaeata silently glided round behind each singly, and with his tomahawk brained them all in succession, in spite of the pleadings of the women, who cried to him to save at least some of them.

Of the ten who had left their party after the first ineffectual offer of peace, one was already badly wounded; they hid themselves amongst the bushes and ferns, and at length managed to reach the coast, where they obtained a boat from a whaling station, and made their escape to the company's brig. Of this sad massacre, Mr. Angas, who visited Rauparaha's "pah" a few months afterwards, writes, "The natives have a different story to tell; they say that the Europeans fired first, and shot Rangihaeata's wife, and that they themselves had no wish to fight, until their passions were roused, when they fought in self-defence. The English were undoubtedly wrong in erecting buildings upon lands to which they had no established claim – upon land, the sale of which was disputed, and respecting which the commissioner had not yet given his decision. They were also wrong in apprehending Rauparaha, who had committed no crime, and in endeavouring to seize him by main force. But the natives, by putting to death in cold blood the prisoners who had surrendered themselves into their hands, were guilty of a crime that their barbarous

system of warfare scarcely allows. It was an act of savage revenge, and was prompted by one individual. Indeed, I have heard it stated by those who were connected with this sanguinary affair, that Rangihaeata, with his own hand, massacred all those who were taken prisoners, in order to revenge the death of his favourite wife, who was one of the daughters of Rauparaha, and was shot whilst sitting at the fire."

The history of Rauparaha is an eventful one. His birthplace was at Kawhia, on the west coast of the North Island; from whence, with his powerful tribe, he was expelled by the Nga Pui hosts from the Bay of Islands, in conjunction with the tribes of Waikato. He subsequently conquered the people on both shores of Cook's Straits, and took forcible possession of their lands, where he afterwards dwelt. By his skill in warfare, and wily cunning, he acquired great reputation amongst his tribe. He came from Kawhia as the fighting general of Te Pahi; and, after the latter was slain at Otago, he became chief of the tribe. The slaughter of Te Pahi was attended with the most revolting traits of cannibalism; he was suspended to a tree by his heels, and his throat cut, his enemies sucking the blood that flowed from the wound. Rauparaha, to avenge the death of Te Pahi, engaged with the master of an English vessel, of the name of Stewart, to carry him and a detachment of his people, under pretence of a trading voyage, to Otago; where the captain coaxed on board a leading chief of the tribe and his family, some of whom were immediately

MASSACRE OF THE CREW OF THE "BOYD."

despatched. Rauparaha with his party then landed, and laying waste the settlement, killed every man, woman, and child that came in their way. The chief who had been enticed on board, was made fast in the cabin by a hook through his throat; and, in despair at seeing his own daughter in the hands of these monsters, he killed her on the spot. On the voyage back to Cook's Straits this chief was murdered; and it is recorded as a fact that one of the ship's coppers was set apart by Captain Stewart for cooking the human flesh which formed the feast of Rauparaha and his victorious party.

About the year 1812, the ship "Boyd," from Sydney, was at anchor near Wangaroa, in the Bay of Islands, and admitted, without due caution, too large a number of natives on board, when the crew were suddenly attacked, overpowered, and slaughtered. Captain Berry, of the ship "Edinburgh Castle," being on the coast, was soon after apprised of this horrible event, and, proceeding to the bay, found the remains of the "Boyd," which had been burnt by the New Zealanders. On landing, he discovered that the massacre had been directed by Te Pahi, an old chief who had been much caressed in Sydney. The bones of the unfortunate men lay scattered on the ground, where their bodies had been devoured by these savages. Sixteen were murdered and cut up on the deck of the vessel; five others, who had fled for safety upon the yards, were told by Te Pahi that if they would come down their lives should be spared, which, after some hesitation, they consented to do. They were sent on shore.

and in five minutes afterwards their dead bodies lay on the beach. The only survivors whom Captain Berry contrived to save, were a woman, two children, and a boy.

During upwards of half a century that has elapsed since this shocking occurrence, the character of the New Zealander has been more accurately known. The undeniable ferocity of the savage and the cannibal has not been altogether eradicated, but it has been greatly tempered by increasing association with Christianity and a civilized government. Cannibalism has ceased, and most of the natives have embraced the Christian faith. But the cruel war into which they plunged, in the year 1860, with the colonial government, on the question of rights and customs as to the disposal of land, shows the old character ready again to display itself; as do also the several frightful massacres of Europeans which have from time to time occurred, from that of Wairau, down to the murders of the Rev. Mr. Volckner and others on the east coast, not twelve months ago.

The natives in the Middle Island had always been inferior in numbers, and probably in physical power, to the Northern Islanders, who from time to time made cruel and butcherly raids upon them. These tribes however who thus suffered, had, in their turn, some generations previously, oppressed and slaughtered the race who were the former possessors of the southern half of the Middle Island; and there still remain, in the fastnesses of the Southern Alps, the refugee remnant of these

GAUTIMOEMOES.

fugitives, who are termed by the other Maories, Gautimoemoes, or wild men. Some of these savages have lately been sighted by explorers, but they flee from the face of man, and have never been spoken with.

CHAPTER XXIII. HISTORY AND PROGRESS OF MISSIONARY LABOURS...

CHAPTER XXIII.

HISTORY AND PROGRESS OF MISSIONARY LABOURS IN POLYNESIA, IN CONNECTION WITH THE CHURCH OF ENGLAND; AND THE PRESENT STATE OF THE CHURCH IN THE NEW ZEALAND COLONIES.

MISSIONARIES' COTTAGE ON THE WAIKATO

WHILST the London Missionary Society has for many years past been engaged in evangelizing the islanders of the Eastern and Central Pacific, and

the Wesleyans have established their missions also amongst the Tonguese and Figians, the labours of the Church of England have been principally directed to New Zealand, and, more recently, to those islands in the western portion of the South Pacific, including the Loyalty, New Hebrides, Santa Cruz, and Solomon groups, which are known by many as "Melanesia."

In the year 1810 the Rev. Mr. Marsden proposed to the Church Missionary Society to extend their operations to the north island of New Zealand, being encouraged to do so by promises of protection from several powerful chiefs at the Bay of Islands, who had visited him in New South Wales, and who guaranteed, should a missionary establishment be formed amongst them, hospitality and kindness from their own tribes, and protection from the attacks of others who were hostile to them. Acting upon this proposition, the Society sent out three lay agents, accompanied by their wives and families, who, with the Rev. Mr. Marsden, landed on the 20th December, 1814, at Wangaroa, the scene of the then recent catastrophe of the massacre of the crew of the "Boyd," spending their first night on the shores of New Zealand on the spot which had been stained with the blood of their countrymen. They then proceeded to the Bay of Islands, where they formed a settlement at Rangihoua, the residence or "pah" of Tuaterra, one of the friendly chiefs. Having thus successfully planted the first missionary establishment in New Zealand, Mr. Marsden returned to Sydney in March, 1815. In 1819 two other lay

STATIONS OF PAHIA AND WAIMATE.

agents arrived, and were stationed at Keri-Keri, a beautiful spot on a navigable river falling into the Bay of Islands, where a wharf was formed by the missionaries; who also erected a substantial public store of whinstone close to the banks of the stream.

Much of the security and success of these early labourers in the cause of Christianity was owing to the protection of E. Hongi, the great chief of the Nga Pui tribe, who, having visited England and been most hospitably received there, became the firm friend of the English, and uniformly defended those who placed themselves under his protection. On rumours of invasion from other tribes, Hongi watched day and night to prevent any injury being done either to the missionaries or their property; and nearly his last words before his death were, "Let the missionaries sit in peace; they have done much good, and no harm."

In August, 1823, the first ordained missionary of New Zealand, the Rev. Henry Williams, now Archdeacon of Waimate, established another station at Pahia; he was assisted by Mr. Fairburn, a clever carpenter as well as an excellent teacher. In the following year they were joined by two other catechists, and in. 1825 by Mr. Williams's brother, the Rev. W. Williams (now Bishop of Waiapu), and his wife. In 1829 Mr. and Mrs. Brown arrived, to undertake the charge of the education of the children of the missionaries, who were now becoming numerous.

In the following year the farm station of Waimate was formed, with a view to render the mission inde-

pendent of New South Wales for its supply of provisions, which hitherto had to be brought at great expense from that colony; and also to induce the natives to adopt European implements and modes of cultivation. The Waimate is situated, seven miles inland from the Keri-Keri, between which two stations a road was made with much difficulty, and the whole work of the new settlement performed by the natives under the direction of Messrs. Clarke, Davis, and Hamlin. Three weather-board houses were erected, with stables for twelve or fourteen horses, stores, carpenters' and blacksmiths' shops, out-houses, eight or ten cottages, and lastly a spacious chapel, capable of holding 400 persons. Ploughs and harrows were made at the station, and plentiful crops rewarded the toil of these early pioneers of civilization. Schools for both boys and girls, as well as an infant school, and one for the adult population, were also established at Waimate; and the translation of the Holy Scriptures, and of the Liturgy of the Church of England, into the New Zealand language was commenced in the year 1830 by the Rev. W. Williams, assisted by Mr. Shepherd, Mr. Puckey, and Mr. Brown. During this year the mission was again visited by the Rev. Mr. Marsden, who found the attendance of the natives at public worship and in the schools continued to increase, and that the progress of Christianity amongst them was such as to encourage the missionaries in their self-denying labours.

In 1833 a fifth station was formed at Kaitaia, to the northward of the Bay of Islands, and two lay

THE REV. MR. MARSDEN.

agents established there; about the same time also, another station was formed at Puriri, on the banks of the Waikate, but it was afterwards abandoned, and the missionaries removed to Koweranga and Marietai.

In 1834 a printing-press was sent out for the use of the mission, and in 1838 the whole of the New Testament and a second edition of the Prayer Book, were issued in the Maori or New Zealand language. Until the death of Mr. Marsden in 1838 the mission remained under his general superintendence. He often visited it, and gave the missionaries the benefit of his advice and sympathy. On his seventh and last visit, at the age of seventy-two, he gave his parting benediction to the missionaries and their native converts. In a letter to the Church Missionary Society he thus speaks of them: – "I have visited many of the stations within the compass of one hundred miles, and have observed the wonderful change that has taken place. I am at present at Waimate, which was formerly one of the most warlike districts in the island, but it is now the most moral and orderly place I ever was in. A great number of the natives, for some miles, have been baptized, and live like Christians. There are neither riots nor drunkenness, neither swearing nor quarrels, but all is order and peace. The same effects I have observed to be produced by the Scriptures, and by the labour of the missionaries in other districts. I consider the missionaries, as a body, very pious, prudent, and laborious men; and that they and their children are walking in the admonition of the Lord, so as to make

them a national blessing when, they have finished their labours." On the 12th March, 1838, this venerable servant of God was called to his eternal rest, having nearly reached the age of seventy-three, and having performed the duties of chaplain at Sydney, in New South Wales, for upwards of forty-five years.

New Zealand was at this period a dependency of New South Wales, and therefore within the diocese of the Bishop of Australia. It was accordingly visited by Bishop Broughton in December, 1838, who hold two ordinations, consecrated two burial-grounds, and admitted to the order of priesthood the Rev. O. Hadfield, now archdeacon of Kapiti, who had accompanied him from Sydney.

In 1840 the sovereignty of Great Britain over New Zealand was established by treaty, and at the same time it was proclaimed an independent colony, to which settlors from the mother-country rapidly emigrated in large numbers. The increasing urgency of its need of episcopal supervision led to its being constituted a colonial bishopric, and, consequently, on the 17th October, 1841, the Rev. George A. Selwyn was consecrated the first Bishop of New Zealand.

On the 29th May, 1842, the bishop arrived at Auckland, and at once commenced his labours both amongst the European and the native population. From this time forward, a recent writer says "the history of the Church in New Zealand, and of its missions, are one with the history of its single-hearted and ever-active bishop."

BISHOP SELWYN.

One of the bishop's first cares was to select sites at Auckland for an additional cemetery, another church, and for parsonage-houses contiguous. He also gave directions for the purchase of land for the site of the cathedral, and for a cathedral close. He rejected the proffered State grant towards the support of the clergy and erection of churches, certain conditions being attached to their reception of which he did not approve; preferring "to maintain the independence of the Church, and to commit her support to the free charities of the servants of God."

In 1852, the Society for the Propagation of the Gospel granted the sums of 1000l. for St. John's College at Auckland, and 1000l. for the projected College at Porirua in Cook's Straits, the land for which had been given by the sons of the celebrated chief Te Rauparaha. These sums were invested, and the interest applied for the education of poor students as missionaries. In 1854 the bishop visited England on matters of business connected with the welfare of his diocese; and in 1855, on his return, he set out on a visitation tour, in the course of which he walked 550 miles and rode 450, examining and confirming 1500 persons.

In 1856 the Bishop of Christchurch was consecrated for the new Colony of Canterbury, which had been established on the eastern coast of the Middle Island of New Zealand.

In 1858 the charge of the Bishop of New Zealand was further diminished by the erection of the sees of Wellington and Nelson. At the same time Bishop Selwyn was appointed Metropolitan, and, in

the following year, with the assistance of the other bishops, he consecrated Archdeacon Williams to the Bishopric of Waiapu, which had been erected at Hawkes' Bay on the east coast.

In the year 1850 the Australasian Board of Missions was formed, and the special task of visiting the southern islands of the western pacific was entrusted to the Bishops of New Zealand and Newcastle N. S. W., New Zealand being selected as the head-quarters of the mission.

The Bishop of Newcastle, however, only accompanied the Bishop of New Zealand on one voyage to the islands, Dr. Selwyn from that time carrying on the mission alone. The plan pursued by the bishop was to visit, in a small vessel, annually, as many islands as he could, bestowing presents, and establishing friendly relations with the savage inhabitants, so as eventually to succeed in inducing some of the young men or lads to accompany him to New Zealand. There they were taught to read and write in their own languages, and were instructed in the doctrines of the Christian faith, and in social and civilized habits. Eventually they were conveyed back in the missionary schooner to their native islands, and other scholars brought to fill their places. In this manner as many as seventy-five scholars, from upwards of fifteen different islands, principally those of the Loyalty and New Hebrides groups, were received into the Melanesian school up to the close of 1857.

In 1861 the Metropolitan resigned this portion of his labours to the Rev. J. C. Patteson, who had

THE MELANESIAN MISSION.

been his companion on so many of his island voyages, and who was consecrated Missionary Bishop of Melanesia on the 24th February in that year.

In 1862 a mission schooner was subscribed for and built in England for Bishop Patteson's use, at a cost of nearly 5000l., and was named the "Southern Cross." With this small vessel the bishop is assiduously and zealously carrying on his arduous labours amongst the more savage and little-known islands of south-west Polynesia, in many of which, owing to the unhealthiness of the climate, it would be impracticable to form permanent missionary settlements. Altogether, the Melanesian Mission has, during the past ten or twelve years, visited about seventy islands; and nearly 200 youths, speaking twenty-five languages or dialects, have been taught in their school in New Zealand, and afterwards sent back to their respective homes; thus opening up the way for missionary work hereafter on a more extended scale.

The following list will show the number of clergy at present labouring in the various dioceses of New Zealand, and in that of Melanesia: –

DIOCESE OF NEW ZEALAND.

Bishop, and Metropolitan – The Right Rev. George Augustus Selwyn, D.D., 1841.
Archdeacons – Ven. G. A. Kissling, Waitemata; Ven. H. Govett, Taranaki; Ven. H. Williams, Waimate; and thirty-seven clergy and native catechists.

DIOCESE OF WAIAPU.

Bishop – Right Rev. W. Williams, D.C.L., 1859.
Archdeacons – Ven. A. N. Brown, Tauranga; Ven. W. L. Williams, Waiapu; with eleven clergy and native catechists.

DIOCESE OF WELLINGTON.

Bishop – Right Rev. C. J. Abraham, D.D., 1858. Archdeacon – Ven. O. Hadfield, Kapiti; with fifteen clergy and native catechists.

DIOCESE OF NELSON.

Bishop (Designate) – Right Rev. A. B. Suter, D.D., 1865; with eight clergy.

DIOCESE OF CHRISTCHURCH.

Bishop – Right Rev. H. J. C. Harper, D.D., 1856. Archdeacon – Ven. H. Jacobs; and thirty-three clergy.

DIOCESE OF MELANESIA.

Missionary Bishop – Right Rev. J. C. Patteson, D.D., 1861; with three assistant clergymen, one lay-agent, and several native teachers.

THE END

LONDON: PRINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, SIAMFORD STREET AND CHARING CROSS.

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