Supplementary Information Relative to New Zealand

John Ward

First published by John W. Parker in 1840

Digitised and made available online by the University of Auckland Libraries and Learning Services.

Epub © 2013 Early New Zealand Books Collection

ISBN 978-1-927279-32-8

[FRONTISPIECE]

Front Cover

[TITLE PAGE]

SUPPLEMENTARY INFORMATION

RELATIVE TO

NEW-ZEALAND;

COMPRISING

DESPATCHES AND JOURNALS

COMPANY'S OFFICERS OF THE FIRST EXPEDITION,

AND THE

FIRST REPORT OF THE DIRECTORS.

LONDON:
JOHN W. PARKER, WEST STRAND.
M.DCCC.XL.

1840

[TITLE VERSO]

LONDON:

HARRISON & CO., PRINTERS,

ST. MARTIN'S LANE.

[CONTENTS]

CONTENTS.

No. Page

I. Extract of a Despatch from Colonel Wakefield, the Principal Agent in New Zealand, dated Teawaiti, September 1, 1839 - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

II. Extract of a Letter from Mr. E. M. Chaffers, R.N., Commander of the Tory, September 1, 1839 - - - - 24

III. Despatch from Colonel Wakefield, with Journal, dated Cloudy Bay, October 10, 1839 - - - - - - - 27

IV. Sailing Directions, by Mr. E. M. Chaffers, R.N. - 63

V. Report on the Physical Condition and Natural History of Queen Charlotte's Sound, Cloudy Bay, Tory Channel, Port Nicholson, and the surround- ing Country. By Ernst Dieffenbach, M.D., Na- turalist to the Expedition - - - - - - - - - - - 72

VI. Colonel Wakefield's Third Despatch, forming a Journal from October 13 to December 13, 1839 - - 111

VII. First Report of the Directors of the New Zealand Company, May 14, 1840 - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 161

[Page four is blank.]

No. I.

SUPPLEMENTARY INFORMATION.

No. I.

Extract of a Despatch from Colonel Wakefield,the Company's Principal Agent in New Zealand, dated on board the Tory, Teawaiti, Queen Charlotte's Sound, Cook's Straits, September 1, 1839.

MY last letter, and the only one I have had an opportunity of sending since we left England, was dated June the 3rd, and was shortly to inform the Company of the safe progress of the expedition, nearly to the Equator. The hope I expressed therein of reaching New Zealand within a hundred days from England has been realised, and I have now the pleasure to inform you, for the information of the Governor and Directors of the Company, that having first sighted the land near Cape Farewell yesterday (16th August) at noon, being the 96th day from Plymouth, we anchored this evening in this harbour, (Ship Cove, Queen Charlotte's Sound.) Our passage has been made without touching anywhere, and, indeed, (if I except a very distant glimpse of the mountains in the Island of Palma, one of the Canaries),without our having seen land since the Lizard.

Having had the benefit of the opinions and experience ofan excellent navigator in Captain Chaffers, I venture in this place to offer briefly the result of my observation on the voyage, with the hope that, should the suggestions founded on it be thought likely to be useful to emigrants, the commanders of the Company's ships may be instructed to give their attention to them; and for so invading the province of the navigator, I would plead, that although the voyage across the North Atlantic nowadays may have, as Humboldt observes, fewer dangers than the passage of a Swiss lake, still it may be doubted whether the published accounts have laid down the course best calculated to ensure the least delay in accomplishing it; still more is it allowable to offer some practical remarks on the navigation of

VOYAGE OF THE TORY TO NEW ZEALAND.

the South Atlantic and Pacific Oceans, for which no book of sailing directions, farther than to the Cape of Good Hope, exists, – and on the best way of reaching New Zealand, hitherto but little known, except to masters of whale ships, who seldom think of communicating the results of their experience.

It is the custom of vessels bound round the Cape of Good Hope to cross the Line in between 18 deg. and 22 deg. of west longitude, by pursuing which track it is supposed that they are most likely to avoid, on one hand the calms which prevail near the coast of Africa, and on the other the currents which set towards the dangerous shores of South America, near Cape San Roque; and by this plan a passage to the Line in forty days is considered good for a merchant-vessel. I would advise, that in running down the north-east trade, more westing should be made, so that the Line should be crossed in 26 deg. or 27 deg. west, by which means one is almost certain to find the south-east trade in 4 deg. or 5 deg. north, or almost as soon as the north-east trade fails, and to ensure a favourable wind down the coast of America, should it be the intention to put in at Rio, from whence, during the greater part of the year, a westerly wind blows towards the great connecting current and the Cape of Good Hope.

By pursuing this course, we reached the Line in twenty-six days, being but two days in the variables; and after quitting the south-east trade in 20 deg. south, might have been at Rio in a week, or in six weeks from England; or, had we been set to the westward, near Penedo de San Pedro, we had an excellent harbour for refuge, provisions, &c., under our lee in Bahia. I conclude that every emigrant ship to New Zealand will put in at one port, at least, on her way out. It is, in my opinion, absolutely requisite that the emigrants, in order to arrive out comfortably and satisfied, should (particularly where there are women and children), have a few days to procure fresh provisions, have their clothes washed, and break the monotony of so long a voyage; and I mention Rio as a desirable port for such purposes, as well as that by making it no time would be lost, as a vessel must go further south to be sure of finding a

favourable wind, to run down her easting to the Cape. It has also the advantages of being a cheap place, whereas Cape Town, inaccessible by means of Table Bay, during the winter months, is now one of the dearest places in the world. Much time would also be lost by refreshing at the Cape, from its being necessary to wait for a wind to get a good offing from Lagulhas Bank, when coming to the east-ward.

After doubling the Cape, the usual course of the Indian ships in the parallel of 40 deg. seems to be the best, till reaching the meridian of the Islands of St. Paul and Amsterdam, after which it is necessary, (unless it is intended to go through Bass' Straits), to bear away gradually to the south. In this place I may remark that we sailed nearly over the spot where the Telemachus rock is laid down in the charts, off Cape Lagulhas, and the existence of which has been considered doubtful, since Captain Hanner in H. M. ship Heron, sought in vain for it during some days. We kept a good look out, but could find no signs of rock or shoal in the neighbourhood.

Vessels proceeding to the northern parts of New Zealand may continue in the parallel of 40 deg., which runs through Bass' Straits; but the prevalence of strong south-west, and south-south-west winds on the coast of Van Dieman's Land, during more than nine months of the twelve, renders it advisable for such as would make Cook's Strait to run as far south as 45 deg.; when after doubling the south-west cape of Van Dieman's Land, they will bear up direct for Cape Farewell.

On making the land a little to the south of Cape Farewell, the chain of Alps running down the centre of the Southern Island, capped with snow, is the most prominent feature. The land, however, near the coast is very high, gradually lowering towards the Strait. And about forty miles south-west of Cape Farewell is a most remarkable white cliff, or oblique fissure, perhaps the opening of a harbour, which presented to us, at twenty miles' distance,the appearance of a huge tail of white smoke as left behind by a steam-vessel under way. A spit of sand, on which is very shoal water, runs out twenty-five miles of Cape

PASSAGE DOWN COOK'S STRAITS.

Farewell. We therefore stood to the north-east, and hove to for the night in the middle of the Strait, opposite Blind Bay, where the soundings are excellent at 45, 49, and 52 fathoms, deepening from the land. At day-break we made all sail, and stood on down the Strait, passing successively within ten miles of D'Urville's Island, Stephen's Isle, Admiralty Bay, Point Lambert, and Port Gore, bearing the appearance given in the accompanying sketches. The first appearance of the Southern Island is unpromising; a succession of apparently barren mountains stretching away from the coast till they reach those covered with snow in the interior; but, on nearing the land, you find that the whole is covered to the very highest points with timber and brushwood, which not till then betray their perpetual verdure. The Strait is extremely open and easy of access. Entry Island and the Highlands of Terrawaiti, with a volcanic mountain, emitting clouds of smoke, are plainly distinguished from Stephen's Island, but Mount Egmont has not been seen by us.

Passing Port Gore, Point Jackson, which divides that harbour from Queen Charlotte's Sound, has a reef of rocks partly out of water, partly sunken, running out from it two miles. Giving this a berth we entered between the headlands of the Sound, formed to the north-east by Cape Koemaroo; but the wind failing suddenly, and the tide setting at the rate of five miles an hour towards the reef, we were for a short time in doubt whether we could make our port. Just as we had resolved to stand off, a breeze sprung up, with which we ran in, and in an hour after entering the Bay, anchored in the mouth of Ship Cove; nightfall, a calm, and the ebb-tide preventing our taking up a berth at the bottom of it.

We came up the Sound between the Island of Motuara and Long Island, the sunken rock which Cook discovered in his last voyage in the passage between Motuara and the land to the north-west, not being precisely laid down. As we entered the Sound, we saw four canoes sailing from the north-west, as if with a view of coming up with us; and, before we were at anchor, another from one of the coves at the entrance, containing eight natives, came alongside us.

VISIT FROM THE NATIVES.

It had, at some distance, the appearance of its owners hesitating to venture near us; but it turned out that they only stopped occasionally to bale out their canoe, which was very frail and shabby, consisting of a single tree hollowed out from the bottom, and a few rough planks, ill put together, for its sides. As the canoe ran alongside the ship, then scarcely making way through the water, it was lashed to the main-chains, and the men from it were on our deck in an instant. As they were unarmed, no precaution had been used to prevent such an occurrence; and, at first sight, their savage appearance, wild expression of countenance, and energetic movements, might have led to a belief that their intentions were anything but friendly. They quickly, however, shook hands with every one coming in their way on the deck, and seemed to consider that their appearance on board, in the way described, was a matter of course, and that we were very glad to receive them. They all spoke more or less English; inquired where we were going to anchor, telling us that their cove was the best place; and assumed an air of authority, such as a pilot does who steps on board a vessel entering a strange port. They brought on board a small quantity of fish and potatoes, which were afterwards bought for a little tobacco.

These men are of the Nyati-inhatuigh tribe, whose chief lives here, and is tributary to Raupero, the head of the Capiti tribes, who lives at Capiti or Entry Island. This part of the Sound, however, is owned by Hiko, Raupero's nephew, who inherited it from Tipahi, and who will probably succeed Raupero as chief of the Capiti tribes. One of them recognised Nayti, the interpreter, as an old acquaintance. . . . . . Three years ago, no "pah," or fort, existed in the Sound; but, as we sailed into it, the Island of Motuara and Long Island each presented signs of hasty but extensive fortification – if a rough enclosure by palings, scarcely so strong as an English sheep-pen, can be so called; and we found that, a few months ago, a quarrel had taken place between the Capiti tribe and that called Nyatiawa, which resides further up the Sound than where we are, respecting the right of proprietorship in Motuara and Long Island, when Raupero crossed the Strait with his

ANCHOR IN SHIP COVE.

followers, and, after a fight which ended in the slaughter of eight men, had been victorious; when peace was established, and it still exists.

On the other hand, a schooner from the Bay of Islands had been here, with an English, and native chief, missionary (whether of the Church or Dissenting Society did not appear), and he transformed these fighting cannibals into catechists, or self-styled missionaries. . . . They are a fine race of men, infinitely superior in appearance to those of the northern part of the other island; very intelligent, and capable of being extremely useful to settlers, as labourers, fishermen, and sailors. They behave with strict decency and propriety, but are half naked from want of clothes, for which they evince a decided preference to powder or ornaments. They have been much spoiled by their intercourse with the numerous whale ships in the ports in the Strait, and seemed surprised at my declining the offer of the sojourn of one of their daughters on board during my stay amongst them. With the acquisition of these bad habits, they have not lost those of the savage, and of the savage of New Zealand in particular. . . . . . . . . .

The rising generation, however, promises much better things. The influence of the forms of worship introduced by the missionaries, and scrupulously attended to by the whole community, although it has inculcated but a vague idea of the Christian religion, has been most powerful and morally useful. It has introduced a strong desire to acquire knowledge from books, and the love of a settled residence and of a quiet life, which routine always engenders.

Sunday, 16th August. – At day-light this morning we weighed anchor, warped into the cove, and moored the ship in eleven fathoms water, with muddy bottom, within 500 yards of the shore, to a tree on which we carried out a hawser; occupying nearly the same position as Captain Cook during his three visits to this harbour. Nothing can exceed the beauty of the situation. The water, tranquil as an inland lake, has ten fathoms' depth within a ship's length of the shore, which is covered to the water's edge with an evergreen forest, consisting of every variety of indigenous tree and shrub, so thick as to be scarcely penetrable, and

VESTIGES OF COOK'S VISITS.

presenting to the eye an undulating carpet of verdure, reaching to the summit of the surrounding mountains, the highest of which is from 1,200 to 1,500 feet. The birds, as in the time of the immortal English navigator, fill the air with their notes, the mixture of which he has aptly likened to the tinkling of small bells; and the sea teems with fish, of which we caught enough with hooks and lines for the whole ship before we dropped anchor. These consisted of hake, colefish, spotted dog-fish, gurnet, flounders, and joe-fish, all of which are eatable. Our friends, the natives, came on board early, and were followed by the four canoes we had seen yesterday coming from the westward. The owners of these latter have their residence in Admiralty Bay, and were bound to Cloudy Bay with pigs and potatoes for sale, but seeing the Tory stand into the sound, had followed, in the hope of doing better with us, and with the intention of pursuing their way by the passage through the sound which opens to the strait near Cloudy Bay. This passage, which forms an island of the land to the S.E. of Cape Koemaroo, is mentioned by Cook, but is not laid down in any of the maps. It is the usual route to Cloudy Bay from the westward, being much shorter and safer than that by the strait. The natives from Admiralty Bay have not had the benefit of missionary visits, and exhibit, in nearly all its nakedness, the genuine savage character. They rubbed noses with Nayti, instead of giving the shake ofthe hand which characterizes the disciples of Christianity throughout the islands. Their faces were painted like an European buffoon, and their bodies thickly anointed with whale-oil and ochre. . . . . . . . . .

It being Sunday, after the ship was moored, and the decks cleared, I dismissed the natives, with a request that they would come early to-morrow with what they had for sale, and went on shore with the naturalist and other gentlemen of the expedition. The little beach, with its springs and rivulets, retains, at the distance of nearly seventy years, vestiges of Cook's visits, in the timber cut down but not used by him, the wild radishes and cabbages, and the spacecleared for his forge and workshop.

The wood is almost impenetrable on the sides of the hills,

BARTER WITH THE NATIVES.

from the web of supple-jacks and other creepers; but for a hundred yards from the beach there is a swampy flat, through which run three rivulets of delicious water, which, flowing from the heights, here assumes a shape before mixing with that of the bay. The soil here and on the hills is very rich, being, in fact, the decayed vegetation of centuries, and in the flat producing a thick carpet of weeds and herbage; but even were the land cleared higher up, which would be a work of time, it is doubtful whether the great acclivity would not prevent cultivation for the purposes of husbandry, though there can be little doubt that the vine and Indian corn might be grown up to the summit. No natives appeared on the shore, the cove being under "taboo," on account of its containing the burial-place of a daughter of Tipahi, the late Chief of the Capiti Tribes. I was unaware of this fact until we were at anchor; and find that, notwithstanding the missionary doctrines, an "utu," or compensation, is expected from us, for breaking the "taboo" by anchoring in the cove.

Monday, August 19th. – Everything was in activity to-day for filling our water-casks and refitting the ship.

......The wood here comes most opportunely to replace our studding-sail booms, of which we had not one left when we arrived, all having been carried away, one after the other, in the various favourable gales we had run before. The storekeeper was busily employed in traffic all the morning, and soon laid in a stock of pigs and potatoes, sufficient for all hands on board during six weeks. A basket of potatoes, weighing twenty pounds, sold for a pipe, and a blanket, which cost eight shillings in London, fetched three pigs, weighing eighty pounds each, and this was considered a liberal scale of barter on our part.

In the afternoon, having sent all the natives away, with the exception of the Chief Nyarewa, and his wife and son,(a very handsome nice lad of seventeen,) whom I retained to dinner, I went over to Motuara, accompanied by Captain Chaffers and the cabin party. This is the island lying at the entrance of the sound, where Cook had his observatory and garden, and commands a view of the whole northern part of the sound, Entry Island, and the high lands of

THEIR HOSPITALITY.

Terrawaiti. It is covered with wild shrubs, plants, and flowers; and even at this time, the depth of winter, looked as gay and thriving as an ornamental plantation in England in summer. Hundreds of parrots, green and brown, wood-pigeons, tuis, and singing-birds, crossed our steps, and all our guns contributed to the naturalist's collection. There are also many pigs turned loose here by the natives, to be caught as occasion requires; but no human inhabitants reside here.

There are about 200 natives living in the sound, at about three hours' sail from Ship Cove. The settlement is called Teawaiti on the island of Alapawa, formed by the southern channel before mentioned, and the natives are of the Nyatiawa tribe. The Nyati-inhatuigh tribe consists of only eighty or ninety souls, living at a mile and a half nearer the entrance of the sound than Ship Cove. Their village bears the name of Anaho. Two of our party went to this village yesterday evening in a canoe, with the natives. They were most kindly received; supper was prepared, and, after prayers and singing in a meeting-house, when every soul in the village collected, they had mats for the night. The chief, his wife, and son behaved most respectably at table, ate of everything heartily, but drank sparingly, the father occasionally warning his son against taking too much wine.

Nayti is delighted at the reception by us of his friends, who treat him with great respect, always addressing him by the title of "erike," or chief. There was some doubt in England as to his caste, which, from all we see, stands as high as that of any one in the strait. His dress and apparrent wealth has some share also in procuring deference from his countrymen. A striking change has taken place in his demeanour since our arrival in harbour. During the voyage he was at first moody, and regretted the life of visiting and amusement he had led in London. At another time he took affront at a debating club which we held in the cabin twice a week; at one of the meetings of which he supposed that he heard his own name mentioned, and he accordingly absented himself from the cabin for some days, and declared that he would leave the ship when she might

CONDUCT OF NAYTI.

arrive in port, and would go back to England, and get employment from another Company, &c. The same uniform kind treatment he had received from all of us, with a little firmness on my part in forbidding him to associate with the crew, quickly brought him round, however; and fear of his countrymen at the first sight of them, made him cling still more to his English friends. When the first canoe came alongside us, he began to apologize to me for the naked state in which I should find the natives, in the manner that one might excuse the appearance of a poor relation; and was much relieved by our reception of them. The contrast between his own comfortable position and their wretched state, then seemed to strike him forcibly, and made him sacrifice them to us. He interpreted faithfully their words and intentions, and repeatedly cautioned me against either their attempts to steal from the ship, or to cheat us in our dealings. He has greatly gained, also, in our estimation by juxta-position with his countrymen, amongst whom he assumes the bearing of a smart intelligent Englishman; so much so that, in talking of him, they commonly call him the white man. On the whole he promises to be much more useful to the expedition than I had anticipated, and decidedly has the interests of the Company, and its object of settling his native country from Great Britain, much at heart.

Tuesday, August 20th. – The work on shore proceeds with vigour. I have settled the question of "Utu," for anchorage, wood, and water, by a small present, and this even was unnecessary, the natives themselves breaking the "taboo" whenever convenient to themselves; and the custom having gone out of fashion where the missionaries, who strictly denounce it, have got any footing. In the afternoon I went to a small cove up the sound, and drew the seine, in which we caught an excellent dish of soles, flounders, and young herrings. In the evening many fish were caught from the ship with line and hook, one of them a species of ground-ling, very good for the table, weighing nearly twenty pounds.

Wednesday, August 21st. – The bad weather prevented me leaving the ship, a violent S.E. gale, accompanied with

THE CHIEF, NYAREWA.

heavy rain, continuing all the day. Some of the gentlemen, however, were out in a boat, and shot several shags and red-beaked cormorants. The former build in trees at the edge of the water, are easily shot, and are very good eating, resembling very much in taste fresh-killed beef. Notwithstanding the rain, the watering proceeded rapidly, so that in two days and a half we have filled and stowed enough for a voyage back to England. The chief, Nyarewa, continues our guest on board, and Nayti is paying a visiton shore at the village. The old chief is most inoffensive and dignified, his pipe and looking at pictures in books of travels being his principal employments. He seems to possess but little influence amongst his people, or perhaps he has not yet seen an occasion worthy of his serious interference. He knows all this country well, and, amongst other information, assures me that the coast of Taranake, on the other side of the strait, is without any harbour, and has very shoal water, which breaks a long way out to sea. He also knows a harbour about twenty miles to the S.W. of Cape Farewell, where abundance of coal is to be found, and whither he would undertake to pilot a vessel. The longitude taken to-day by our chronometer varies only three-quarters of a mile from that given by Cook of this place.

Thursday, August 22nd. – During the forenoon the gale broke, and the rain ceased; so that I was able to take the chief home to his village in the whale-boat. Before starting I gave him a gun and a few trifles, with which he was delighted. On landing at his "pah," in the cove at the entrance of the sound, which I have before mentioned, we were received by many of the natives, who had been on board, and knew us; and as we advanced towards the meeting-house, which has been built at the expense of the missionaries, man, woman, and child came out from their huts, to greet us with the eternal shake of the hand.

The bottom of the cove where these people reside is a amost delightful place, with sufficient flat land for a considerable settlement, and a gentle slope for half a mile up the side of the mountain, which is, like the rest, covered with evergreen trees and shrubs of the most luxuriant growth.

WRETCHED CONDITION OF THE NATIVES.

A stream, of strength enough to turn a mill, runs through the centre of the basin formed by the rising ground. The village is a straggling collection of thatched huts of ten feet high each, the door of which barely admits a man creeping on his hands and knees; and, altogether, presents the most miserable specimen of human habitations I ever saw. The occupants of these sties are not less wretched than the appearance of their residences indicates: they want energy and industry to make anything of the abundance which Nature has placed around them. It may be said that their wants being few, little exertion is required by them; but to me they seemed to want everything, with everything within their reach. They are almost naked, houseless, and potato-fed, with a country that would produce commodities exchangeable for every comfort of life. The meeting-house, which also forms the residence of an Englishman, I believe a runaway sailor absent for a time at Cloudy Bay, serves during the day for a common habitation. In this they have morning and evening prayers, and at other times teach each other to read the portions of Scripture translated and printed by the missionaries in the Northern Island. The chief presented us, on leaving him, with a fine specimen of the coal of which he had spoken before, and which I send you, with the birds and drawings, to form the foundation of the Company's Museum. I walked half way back to the ship over a mountain and through a forest, which confirmed me in the opinion that I have before expressed, of the capability of the soil hereabouts to yield almost every vegetable production, were the land cleared of the timber, and rendered availableby means of terraces, or in patches by spade husbandry. In the spaces cleared for potato-grounds, which the natives only use for one crop, we found deep loam, and in some places clay, perfectly adapted to brick-making.

Friday, August 23. – I went at daylight to the village: on my return, several canoes arrived from Cloudy Bay, whence they had started two days ago by the passage through the sound. The artist was on shore in the woods all the morning, and shot sixteen birds – parrots, pigeons,tuis, and the several strange singing-birds of which I send the drawings made by him. In the evening the seine was

THEIR HONESTY.

drawn in the little cove next to ours, which we have called "Flat-fish Cove," and several buckets full of soles and herrings were caught. The hooks and lines, also, on board, had only to be let down to ensure cole and dog-fish. Eoro, the son of the chief Nyarewa, came off with me in the morning, and slept on board. He amused himself with pencil and paper, and learns with great facility. His observance of his newly-acquired worship is most strict; no circumstances preventing him praying and singing most devoutly night and morning.

Saturday, August 24. – The naturalist and artist, with Eoro, started early this morning, and ascended a hill to the S.E., from whence they had a view of the whole sound, with a distant glimpse of Cloudy Bay. Their observationsas to the character of the land and its productions do not add anything to what had been previously gathered respecting them. The rest of the cabin party were engaged in washing clothes on shore, in which they were eagerly assisted by the native women from the village, which had to-day been deserted by nearly all its inhabitants for our cove. There were nearly a hundred persons busy abreast of the ship, and I do not doubt that the cove has not presented so lively an appearance since the time of Cook's visits. The most perfect harmony prevailed, and not the smallest attempt at pilfering by the natives was observed. I went with my gun to the top of the first ridge of hills, accompanied by a native, who answered the purpose of a good setter-dog, by finding abundance of birds sitting in the high trees; upon each occasion of finding a bird worth shooting, he squatted himself in the peculiar position of which all his countrymen are so fond, and called to me to come up. After I had fired, he resumed his course, to which the impediments of supple-jacks, fern, and underwood,which made my progress very slow, seemed to offer no opposition. The woods abound in parrots, wattle-birds, and innumerable small singing-birds.

The supply of potatoes exceeds our demand, more than five hundred basketsful being ranged along the beach to attract our notice. I intend to lay in a stock of them here on account of their cheapness, and to prevent loss of time in

VALUABLE TIMBER.

barter at other places; and should recommend any ship running through the strait, in want of provisions of this nature, to look in here, in preference to supplying itself at Cloudy Bay. Pigs, however, are scarce, the natives being unable to catch those that have been turned out on the Motuara.

Sunday, August 25. – We had no work on board to-day, it being the first Sunday the duties of the ship have allowed any relaxation since leaving England. After I had read prayers to all hands, including our guest Nyarewa, I went with some of the gentlemen to climb a hill in the cove. We ascended the course of a rivulet, which occasionally fell in cascades over the slate-stone rocks, forming the sub-stratum of these mountains. With some labour we reached the region where the highest timber grows. Here we found a species of elm, some of which are eighteen feet in girth, and other trees seventy or eighty feet high, without a branch, which, if too heavy for masts, would make excellent planking for ship-building. As specimens of all these native trees have been long since taken to England by the Dromedary and Buffalo, I do not send specimens of the woods; but, from my own experience, and the information I have from the captain and an excellent ship's carpenter, I feel confident that, although the timber here may not be so valuable as that found in some districts of the North Island,it is still sufficiently valuable to deserve future attention. The Surveyor-General of the Navy of England might supply himself, for some years' consumption, amongst the trees we saw in our ramble this morning. . . .

Monday, August 26. – . . . The climate of this place very much resembles that of the north of Portugal, the most lovely days bursting out in the middle of winter. The thermometer has ranged between 40 deg. and 56 deg. in the shade during our stay. . . .

Wednesday, August 28. – Dr. Dieffenbach, the naturalist, yesterday ascended the highest neighbouring hill. It is covered to the summit with fine trees and underwood, like all the rest on this part of the Southern Island, and, therefore, affords no view of the surrounding country, or inland valleys. His observations, by means of the temperature of

DETENTION IN SHIP COVE.

the atmosphere, made the hill 1544 feet high. This accords nearly with Captain Chaffers' measurement from the base. Nothing more than what we had already noticed was elicited from the excursion. The old chief told us that one of the objects of his visit to Capiti is to be present at a grand "Tangi," or mourning (at which every one cries to the utmost of his power), on the occasion of the death of a sister of Raupero.

Thursday, August 29. – A strong N.E. wind, blowing directly into the sound, prevented us hauling out of the cove, preparatory to leaving this place. Heavy rain, which is common in this latitude at this time of the year, accompanied it. Wetu became very friendly from the hospitable reception he received, and this morning prevented a canoe full of his people from coming on board; sending themaway by saying that we did not want them, and that he was very well on board by himself. He is, I should say, upwards of sixty years old, but very strong and wiry. He told us of his four wives, besides one lately dead, and shook with laughter at a New Zealand gentleman being so muchmore amply provided than the king of England. He expressed himself very anxious for us to pay a visit to his place, Rangatoto, which, he says, abounds in pigs and potatoes. He could not point it out on a chart, but from his description and others, I felt sure it must be in Admiralty Bay, and have since found that it is D'Urville's Island.

As I was prevented from going to Teawaiti yesterday, I sent the storekeeper, and he returned this afternoon in a whale-boat with two Englishmen, one of whom is carpenter at a whaling establishment at that place, where there are fifty or sixty Europeans and Americans. The other proved to be the Englishman whom I had had misrepresented to me as a runaway sailor, and who lived at Anoho. Oddly enough, I found him to be Mr. E – – – , to whom I had a letter from his father in England, recommending him to take employment under me, in case of his knowledge of New Zealand qualifying him to be useful to the Company's interests. He has given me much information respecting this immediate neighbourhood, where he has resided nearly two years. His present place of abode during the whaling

IRREGULAR COLONIZATION.

season (which continues from May to September) is Teawaiti, in the channel which leads from Queen Charlotte's sound into Cook's Strait, to the south-east. Few ships,according to his account, have hitherto made the voyage through the sound by this passage (and no published account of it has been given), the Pelorus, a man-of-war brig, having only pursued it as far as the English settlement last year, and then returned to the strait by the north-western entrance. The river, which that vessel explored, and of which an account reached England last May, instead of being at Cloudy Bay, as erroneously reported in the Oriental Herald, is in Admiralty Bay, and was named the Pelorus River by Lieutenant Chetwode, acting commander during Captain Harding's illness.

The laws of property, as known to our visitors, are very undefined in this part of New Zealand. Neither Raupero nor Hiko possess the power of absolute disposal of any portion of land in the strait. Great confusion exists respecting vested rights. Many white men have established themselves amongst different tribes, and have occupied and cultivated land to any extent within their power, without a question or exaction of any kind from the natives, and it is probable that such is the value set upon European commodities and industry by the natives, and so uncertain the right of ownership in land (which has been usurped by tribe after tribe during a series of wars), that a body of settlers might locate themselves without purchase in almost any part of the shores of the strait, unmolested by anybody. One of the principal means of safety, at present, to wandering Europeans taking up their abodes here, is a quasi marriage with a native female. Our two guests brought their wives with them as a matter of course, and of safety amongst any natives they might meet. These are the natural consequences of irregular colonization, and would speedily give way to a better system, should this country be settled from Europe by associations of individuals, or occupied by a military force, and apportioned as in our colonies.

Friday, August 30. – During the morning, the weather being still tempestuous, we completed our supply of potatoes, which now nearly supersede the use of flour on board. With

DEPARTURE FROM SHIP COVE.

the latter article, vessels coming to New Zealand should be well supplied, as it is very uncertain whether it can be obtained here. Such was the failure of the wheat crop last year in New South Wales, from long droughts, that no flour could be bought in Sydney lately, wholesale, as it could be retailed at the rate of 80l. per ton; whilst cabbages sold at 2s. 6d. a-piece, and carrots at 6d. We took on board also a quantity of cabbages and turnips, which are always in season and plentiful here. Since our countrymen came on board, we have had no trouble from the natives, who receive but little kindness from the whalers, and, therefore, do not seek them. Wetu still continues with us; but has ceased all importunities for presents and compensation, from a conviction that our English visitors have confirmed us in our resistance to his attempts at extortion. He is, however, very well satisfied with the small gratuitous presents I have made him, and has kept his people at a distance till there shall be a fair wind for his passage. A native missionary was on board to-day at sunset, when he mustered all the natives on board who have conformed to the new form of worship, and had prayers and a hymn on the deck. He seemed to possess complete control over the others in inducing them to join in the service; but old Wetu sat apart from the circle, saying that he was no missionary.

Saturday, August 31. – Teawaiti. – The weather having moderated, I determined to take advantage of the experience of our English visitors in the navigation of the sound and southern channel, to run through them in the ship. We accordingly weighed anchor at 10 A.M., and with a lightwind left Ship Cove, and stood up the sound. After the anchor was up I sent Wetu and Nyarewa on shore. The latter parted with us with some little reluctance. . . .

At three o'clock we entered the channel, the entrance of which is about a mile wide. The sound previously had presented a fine expanse of water, of thirty or forty fathoms depth, even close in to the shore, and was bounded on each side with bays and coves, forming a collection of as fine harbours as any in the world. One of them, West Bay, is as large as Plymouth Sound, and all of them easy of access, and safe in all winds. At the southern end of the sound,

ARRIVAL AT TEAWAITI.

before entering the channel, which turns sharply to the eastward, and a few miles afterwards again to the northward, is a large arm, or long bay, at the bottom of which a river, a mile wide at the mouth, enters. Up this arm there is some fine land, and a grove of excellent trees for ship-building and other purposes. A cutter of forty tons was built here two years ago by an Englishman, resident in Teawaiti. Near this river, a few hours' walk across the hills, brings you to the Pelorus river, in Admiralty Bay, the latter rising to the S. W. of its mouth. The channel, as we proceeded farther, narrowed to little more than half-a-mile, and reminded me of the Rhone between Lyons and Avignon. The tide ran at the rate of four or five miles an hour, and formed eddies near each shore. We had no wind, but had nothing to do but to keep the ship in the middle of the passage. At six o'clock we anchored near Teawaiti, and Mr. B – – – , who is at the head of a whaling establishment, came off to us in his boat. The mountains through which this channel runs are much less covered with timber than those at the northern entrance of the sound, and less fertile. The bays, however, offer spots capable of cultivation for any purposes. There are many native settlements, whose inhabitants bear an indifferent character for honesty. A small island, about half way through the channel, has a fort on it, the inhabitants of which eyed us eagerly, and sent some canoes to us; but they are cautious of annoying Europeans since the visit of the Pelorus, whose commander was of essential service to the settlers through all this part of the country, by examining into complaints, and rendering justice to the injured party.............

Mr. B – – – , who has lived in New Zealand as a whale fisherman ten or twelve years, and came from Cafia with the Nyatiawa tribe, when driven from thence by the Waikato people, knows the strait and the western coast thoroughly, and has great influence with that part of the Nyatiawa tribe living at Port Nicholson, having married the daughter of the chief, and shared their hardships and dangers, when attacked by the Cafia and Waikato tribes.........

I hope, by means of Mr. B – – – , to open a negociation with the chiefs at Port Nicholson. The description of its

PORT NICHOLSON – COAL.

value as a commercial port is quite equal to that given by all voyagers who have visited it. The whalers here, however, are anxious to see an English settlement here, when the land which they have acquired in the manner I before related will, of course, be of great value. The works here for melting the blubber are considerable, but of late years few whales have been taken in the strait by shore parties, in consequence of the number of ships going to Cloudy Bay, and on the eastern coast as far south as Port Cowper, in Banks' Peninsula. The south-eastern entrance to the sound is about two miles from this place, and seventeen from Cloudy Bay. Any sized vessel can enter it with the tide, there being no bar, and twenty to twenty-five fathoms water between the headlands, which are a mile and a half apart. I consider the knowledge of this channel to be of great importance to vessels coming into Cook's Strait, particularly if they are bound to Port Nicholson on the eastern coast, from the westward; for they would not only save time by passing through it, but may do so with perfect ease and safety, when a south-east wind would prevent them running through the strait between Cape Koemaroo and Terrawaiti. The island formed by the channel bears the native name of Alapawa, unless renamed by Lieutenant Chetwode, who, however, did not circumnavigate it by the distance of the two miles we are now lying from the entrance.........

Mr. B – – – has been in his cutter to Manganiu (the place near Cape Farewell I mentioned before), where the coal is found. He brought away ten tons of it, which he dug up at high water mark on the beach. There is abundance of it to be had without sinking shafts, and it burns as well as any English coal.

Sunday, September 1. – Another settler and whaler here is named J. – – – , and owns a little bay and tryworks next to the large settlement. He has been here ten years, being one of the original visitors. He describes the Pelorus river as an excellent place for a settlement, and is to introduce me to a Cloudy Bay whaler, who acted as pilot to the Pelorus brig in her discoveries in the strait, and by whose means I hope to open a negociation with the Admiralty Bay chiefs. I went to-day in a boat to the S.E. entrance of the sound.

CAPTAIN CHAFFERS' REPORT OF THE VOYAGE OF THE TORY.

It is open and easy of access or egress. Near it is a fine valley, occupied by the natives, covered with grass. The inhabitants received us with great civility, having had constant intercourse and trade with the English settlement.

On the whole, considering the position and capabilities of Queen Charlotte's Sound, whether with a view to its becoming a port for homeward-bound vessels to take in cargo and provisions – a safe channel of communication between the western parts of the strait, and Port Nicholson, and the eastern coast, – or as a situation for docks and ship-building, it is of the first importance, and cannot be spoken of in too high terms................

I hope that in my next communication I shall have to announce the progress of negociations for territory in this part of New Zealand. Our quick passage out has given me a fortnight to have the ship put into complete order, and provisioned for four months, before the time it was expected we should arrive here, and to obtain the above information; and I have, therefore, nothing now to do but to pursue the object of our voyage. The state of the natives having been so materially altered of late years by their contact with Europeans, and by the precepts of the missionaries, offers facilities of communication with them beyond my anticipations..................

I send this in great haste, by a small schooner bound to Sydney, and shall forward the specimens and drawings by a vessel expected from the southward in a fortnight. At present there is no vessel in Cloudy Bay.

No. II.

No II.

Extract of Letter from Mr. E. M. Chaffers, R. N., Commander of the Tory, dated New Zealand, September 1, 1839.

WE had a good run after leaving Plymouth, and got off Lisbon in five days. I kept to the eastward, running down

the coast of Portugal, knowing the wind is more northerly and fresher in shore than three or four hundred miles off the coast. I passed well to the eastward of Madeira in seven days and a half, and ran to the Cape Verd Islands in fifteen days. We lost the N. E. trade in 7 deg. N. and in three days caught the S. E. trade fresh in 4 deg. N. We crossed the line in 26 deg. 50' W. on the 26th day from Plymouth. I crossed the line on that meridian, knowing from experience that the trades are not so far apart to the westward, are much stronger than to the eastward, and the long calms and squally weather are avoided: we have come up with, and ran out of sight in twenty-four hours, every vessel we have seen, all of them larger vessels than the Tory. Some of them were civil in showing their colours, and one her number, the Holmes, but I could not succeed in getting an answer to my signals. We came up with a fine large Spanish ship, the Colon, of Manilla, about 900 tons, and in twelve hours she was courses down dead to leeward. We did not take in a reef until the morning we caught the S. E. trade. I find her very stiff under her canvass. Off the Cape Verd Islands she went eleven knots, with royals and top-gallant studding-sails set; and on a wind with a good breeze, eight knots is her average rate of sailing. I should like to fall in with a man-of-war, to try her rate of sailing. The crew have their regular watch and watch, hammocks up all day, and forecastle cleared. I make them wash their clothes regularly, and muster every Sunday. I have no trouble with them, and they work quick and well, I have fumigated the ship well, according to Dr. Carmichael Smith's method, with nitrous fumigation, and it has had a very good effect in destroying the foul air.

[Page 26 is blank.]

No. III.

No. III.

Despatch from Colonel Wakefield, enclosing Journal.

Ship Tory, Cloudy Bay, October 10, 1839.
SIR,
You will receive with this a copy of my Journal up to this date, together with charts and remarks by Captain Chaffers, a report from Dr. Dieffenbach, and drawings by Mr. Heaphy, besides specimens of coal, and other productions. My intention is to plant the first settlement at Port Nicholson, where I have ordered several houses to be built. The Honduras takes this. We shall sail for the west coast to-morrow.

I am, &c.,
(Signed) WM. WAKEFIELD.

To the Secretary
of the New Zealand Company.

EXTRACTS FROM THE JOURNAL.

Teawaiti, Queen Charlotte's Sound,
September 6, 1839.

I RESUME my journal (a copy of which, up to the 2nd instant, I sent you on that day). During the intervening time, whilst waiting for the arrival of Mr. Guard, the pilot of the Pelorus, I have had an opportunity of learning generally the origin, progress, and present condition of this settlement.

The first white man who established himself on the beach here is Mr. Guard, who, in 1827, was sailing master of a small vessel, and ran in at the south-eastern entrance of the channel in a gale of wind. He built a house, and with his companions carried on sealing and whaling with great annoyance and risk from the natives, and but little profit to themselves. At one time the natives were so

PRESENT STATE OF THE WHALE FISHING IN NEW ZEALAND.

ill-provided with potatoes and other provisions, that the white adventurers subsisted on whale's flesh and wild turnip-tops; and during many seasons, such was the want of workmen and implements, that the blubber of the whales caught was thrown away for want of casks to hold the oil; and the bone only was turned to account, when any marke dses from Otago and the neighbourhood invaded the Sound, intility to the Nyatiawa tribe, and indiscriminately burned and destroyed the houses and boats of all the residents. One Englishman, now here, who had lived occasionally apart from his countrymen, has had no less than four houses burned at various times.

Since 1831, however, when Cloudy Bay was first made use of as a port for whale-ships, both that place and the Sound have been worked by the agents of Sydney capitalists; and the shore parties, notwithstanding the scarcity of whales in the Strait, procure annually 500 tons of oil. No seals are now found hereabouts, and but very few to the southward, where they were formerly in abundance. The Sydney merchants supply casks and freight for the oil and bone, and nominally pay the fishermen 10l. per ton for the former, and 60l. per ton for the latter. The wages of the working men are paid in slops, provisions, and spirits, which are valued at an exorbitant rate. A pound of tobacco, worth 1s. in England, or 1s. 3d. in Port Jackson, is served out here at 5s., and sometimes at 7s. 6d.; and everything else in the same proportion. The men, however, sign an agreement at the beginning of each season, in which the prices of all articles are stated, so that nothing but the difficulty of going elsewhere for work obliges them to submit to these terms. A good hand in a whale-boat can earn 35l. during a fair season; but his profits depend on the success of his party, who have shares in all whales caught by them.

If the working men are thus badly compensated for their labours, the agents suffer no less from the bad debts they are obliged to make, in order to induce the former to pursue their occupation for a continuance, and by the high price set upon labour by artizans. A good carpenter or

blacksmith earns 10s. a day, and these insist upon payment in money. The Sydney merchants embark but little capital in this trade; and as oil from the black whale sells in England for 30l., and the bone for 150l. per ton, their profits cannot be thought inadequate to the risk.

It is estimated that about 1200 tons of oil are procured annually by the shore parties in Cook's Strait and the stations on Banks's Peninsula, and further to the southward; and that the number of British in these parts is not less than 500.

During the summer these men are employed in trading on the coast with the natives for pigs and potatoes; and those who have small vessels procure supplies, which yield them large profits, by sale to the different French, American, and British whale-ships frequenting the Strait, for provisions before their season on the fishing-ground, or their voyage home. The less thrifty pass their summers in small cultivation of spots they have taken possession of, with the tacit consent of the natives; and the improvident boat-men await the renewal of their dangerous and exciting occupation, depending on the families of the native women, who live with them, for fish and potatoes, and consuming a frightful quantity of gin, so long as their credit is good with the agents.

The rivalry engendered by the nature of the whaler's occupation, and the jealousy of the native tribes fostered by the women, whose cohabitation with the white men has been the principal source of safety to the settlers in this country, produce the worst blood, and the most rancorous feelings amongst our countrymen here. Those resident in the Sound and Cloudy Bay with the Nyatiawa and Kafia tribes, who have been long in deadly contention with each other, mutually disparage their rivals; and in each place separate bays contain varying interests, and the same beach affords subsistence to individuals, whom no love of gain, nor community of danger, has, for years, been able to unite.

There are, nevertheless, some respectable men who are anxious for a better state of things to be brought about by the example of society, regulated by a better law than

SHOCK OF AN EARTHQUAKE.

that of might. Many of their native wives are also entitled to every praise for their fidelity, care of their children, and industry, during many years of difficulty and danger, and are fit to take a very respectable station amongst European matrons.

The halfcaste race, of which there are about twenty-five at Teawaiti, is most promising. They are in general well-built and comely. None of them are darker than Italians. Many have flaxen hair and rosy complexions; and all are as active and hardy as their mother's blood and naked sea-shore existence could lead you to expect.

Our visit, and the knowledge of the probability of the arrival of settlers during the ensuing summer, have put several of the principal people here on the alert, so that no want of provisions, planking for houses and boats, or of other necessaries will be experienced. Already the natives are planting larger quantities of potatoes than usual; and the English are rearing pigs and poultry, for the purpose of supplying the emigrant-ships at Port Hardy or elsewhere. Last week the shock of an earthquake was felt in Cloudy Bay. Such an occurrence is not rare; but no injury has been experienced of late years from convulsions, although the country bears evident marks of having been subject to their action heretofore.

Mr. Guard having arrived, and my arrangements with him being made, I started this morning, accompanied by my nephew, Mr. Jerningham Wakefield, and Mr. Wynen, a settler in Cloudy Bay, to explore the Oyerri or Pelorus river, in Admiralty Bay, in order to see whether the high praises of its banks, as a place of settlement, were justified by the reality. The officers of the brig had painted in such glowing colours the beauties and qualities of the spot, that many parties in Sydney have been contemplating purchases of land in it, but hitherto no one has possessed himself of any portion of it. Mr. Wynen, who came from England a few months ago, being one of the many tired of waiting for the regular colonization of New Zealand, was equally anxious to visit the place, with a view to inform his friends at Sydney and in England of its capabilities.

We started in a strong boat with five hands, four of

VISIT TO ADMIRALTY BAY.

whom are natives of Cloudy Bay, and took also a young chief of the Kafia tribe, to whom the natives living in Admiralty Bay would show deference, as one of the heads of the party who had conquered them, and taken possession of their territory.

We retraced our voyage through the Channel and Sound, the two being about thirty miles in length, and rounding Point Jackson with the flood tide in the Strait to the north-west, after forty miles' sail from the ship, slept the first night in a small bay called Ikokoia, on the main, at the back of one of the Admiralty Isles. The bays and coves of New Zealand are better than any others adapted to a boating expedition. They are in general completely sheltered by mountains and timber, contain a sandy beach on which is an unlimited provision of drift-wood, fit for a camp-fire, and abundance of shell and other fish, with a stream of water trickling from the background. A few blankets and baskets of potatoes, with a pig, are all that it is necessary to bring upon these occasions.

Saturday, Sept. 7th. – Leaving our resting place at daylight, we entered by the boat entrance, at the back of Guard's Island, into the great estuary, which is found at the bottom of Admiralty Bay, into which, at the distance of forty miles from the sea, the Oyerri empties itself. On one of the mountains on the main we observed five head of cattle, part of some imported from Mana, and originally sent there from Sydney by Mr. Cowper. The estuary, or river, presents a much grander appearance than Queen Charlotte's Sound, and contains numerous fine bays, many of which are as spacious as Plymouth Sound, and perfectly sheltered, except from the flurries of wind, which come in great violence from the mountains, and would render good ground-tackle and every precaution necessary for the safety of large ships.

It is impossible to see a more beautiful collection of mountains, wood, and water than that which the passage from the headlands to the fresh water affords. The heights are more considerable than where we have been, and bear timber of the finest growth, amongst which the pine is conspicuous. On either side, as far as the eye can reach,

ASCENT OF THE RIVER OYERRI.

whenever an opening in the hills presents itself, from the water's edge to the clouds, for forty miles in length, nothing but a majestic forest of trees, of every description, in comparison with which, the woods of Blair Athol are insignificant, is to be seen.

The breadth of the estuary varies from two to four miles, except where different arms, which it would require months to explore, form, at their base, an expanse of water. Pursuing the channel, which could only be found by the inexperienced by watching the action of the tide, we reached a large bay at sunset, near to which the Pelorus anchored, and where the mud flats commence. An old "pah," and vestiges of former residence, mark the place where the original tribe, which owned all this part of the strait, had their head-quarters.

Sunday, Sept. 8th. – Soon after leaving our station for the night, we reached the fresh water. As the channel becomes narrower, we found long flats, partly uncovered at low tide, and, higher up, islands, on which grows long grass. Immediately on entering the stream, as distinguished from the whole river by its confinement in narrow limits and by its rapidity, we fell in with islands formed, a long time ago, by obstructions in its course, caused by large trees which had been carried down by the occasional freshes, and had collected around them shingle stones, on which, ultimately, decayed vegetation had become a soil capable of yielding the same species of vegetable productions as that on its banks. On these islands flourish fine trees and an abundance of evergreen shrubs; but the rank under-crop of grass and weeds, as well as the marks left by the water, betray the occasional inundation of all the flat lands at this distance from the source of the river. If these islands were partially destroyed, the course of the river would be opened, and the shoals and falls that now entirely prevent navigation, would, in a short time, be removed by the force of the water, which would then form a fine river. The hills here are two or three miles apart, and the whole intermediate space might, with labour, be then reclaimed and cultivated. We were obliged in many places to have the boat tracked over the shallows. The

TREATMENT OF SLAVES.

natives are accustomed to this operation, and eagerly leap into the water up to their necks when it is necessary. As we proceeded, we found a party of the original natives – the first people we had seen since leaving Queen Charlotte's Sound. They belonged to the Ranghitani tribe,and were made prisoners, four or five years ago, by Raupero and the Kafia people, after the latter were driven from Kafia. They have their residence at Titirangi, at the entrance of Admiralty Bay, and are slaves of the Kafia chiefs. They were bound on an excursion to pick flax, which grows in abundance, and of the best quality, on the swampy ground up the river. These poor people received us in fear and trembling; holding their lives at the mercy of the chiefs, one of whom was with us. We encamped near them at night, and found them very different from the free people we had seen. They are scarcely allowed to possess anything beyond the mere means of existence, and pay heavy tribute yearly to their masters. The river, at the place of our stay, to-day, is sixty yards wide. It narrows higher up in places to forty, and is occasionally almost dry. The marks of floods reach ten feet above its bed; and we were told of some people having been drowned at night by a sudden fresh. These inundations are not, however, of more frequent occurrence than in many rivers of Europe; and the mischief produced by them might be obviated by clearing and confining the stream. Wild ducks of various sorts, and countless pigeons, gave us ample sport and change of food.

Monday, Sept. 9th. – Unable to proceed further in the boat, and yet desirous to know whether the land and river continued of the same description higher up – having been induced to believe, moreover, that as we ascended the stream we should find the mountains wider apart, and fertile plains – we engaged a canoe from our neighbours,and, with three of them to assist in carrying it over the falls and steadying it in its descent down the rapids, again ascended the current. After ten miles, during which we met with many obstructions, and were often forced to walk through the flax grounds, on account of the want of water to float the canoe – -though here and there it ran very deep

BEAUTY OF THE SCENERY.

– we rounded a point in one of the mountains, and found that the country and bed of the river presented precisely the same appearance as lower down. The natives assured us that the source lay at two days' distance, amongst the highest mountains, and that, in fact, the river is but a collection of mountain waters and melted snow, increased in its course by small tributary streams, or rather tricklings, from the side of each hill that bounds its banks. Having satisfied myself on this head, I determined to lose no more valuable time in an idle excursion. We returned to our former station, at the rate of eight miles an hour, borne along by the rapidity of the stream, and steadied, from time to time, at the falls, by the exertions of our valuable guides.

Did this river flow, as I had been led to expect, through a plain agricultural district, or did its banks produce anything beyond a little flax, more than is to be found lower down, within a few miles of the sea, it might be made valuable to settlers by reason of its power to turn wheels and to transport produce to the harbour; but I found nothing to warrant such an assumption. The beauty of its scenery is, however, indisputable, and reminded me of many parts of the Thames between Marlow and Henley.

Tuesday, Sept. 10th. – We descended the river to-day at the same rapid rate as yesterday, and were accompanied by the natives in ten canoes. In these excursions, they carry with them all their property. Children, pigs, dogs, and cats, took their stations amongst the flax and potato-baskets, and seemed as much at home as if in their huts on shore. The men halted the canoes at every fall, and carefully guided our boat till in safety. Much of this civility was given to the chief, our companion, but not a little was rendered as a matter of course to strangers, in the avowed hope that we were coming to settle amongst them, and was unaccompanied by any demand for reward. The appearance of their party descending the rapids, amidst the wreck of immense trees lying in the bed of the river, between the banks covered with the most luxuriant evergreen shrubs, was most picturesque and original.

GUARDS' ISLAND.

We found the fresh water cease earlier than in our progress upwards, in consequence of the flood-tide making, and computed that we had gone up it twenty miles, which is ten miles further than the master of the Pelorus and Mr.Guard walked when the brig was here, and, as we were assured by the natives, much higher than any white man had gone before. The wind and tide being against us, we sought refuge for the night at the bottom of one of the numerous bays in the channel, and found the same bountiful provision of wood, water, and fish, as usual. We were here joined by one of the agents from Teawaiti, who, upon learning of our expedition and its object, had felt anxious to judge for himself of the nature of the place about which so much had been said. He had missed his way, amongst the many arms which penetrate into the hills out of the main channel, and was returning when we brought him to by a signal. One of the arms of this estuary runs away to the eastward, at about thirty miles from the Strait, and is divided from Queen Charlotte's Sound only by a narrow neck of land, over which the natives formerly sometimes dragged their canoes. Another one, still higher up, near the fresh water, leads near to Wairoa, which is a district in which flows a shallow river, at the very bottom of Cloudy Bay, inaccessible in consequence of a bar, and to which the Oyerri, in progress of time, might become the harbour of export.

Wednesday, Sept. 11th. – The wind having increased, we only reached the mouth of the estuary in the afternoon to-day, and disembarked at a native settlement on Guard's Island, named by the officers of the Pelorus after their and our pilot. We found on this island a few of the Ranghitani tribe, slaves; and on the side next the sea, from which there is a view of the whole Strait, a numerous body of the Kafia people. They have excellent houses, and stores of pigs, potatoes, and flax. They cultivate large patches of the island, which, at a short distance, has the appearance of barrenness, and seem more independent, freer from alarm, and happier, than any natives we have seen. We found here the elder brother of the chief we had taken with us. He is a tabooed or sacred personage, and cannot

OBSERVANCE OF THE TABOO.

be touched. He is consequently not tattooed, and is not a little arrogant and scornful. As his tribe owns the Oyerri by right of conquest, he had followed us to know how I liked the place; which he and his brothers are anxious to sell to Europeans, in the hope of deriving benefits, which they have learned to appreciate by their intercourse with whale-ships in Cloudy Bay. The eldest brother's name is Enai, the second Eboa, and the third Charley; and they are all influential and well-disposed to Englishmen visiting Cloudy Bay.

Thursday, Sept. 12th. – Still detained on Guard's Island by a south-east gale. This wind is of frequent occurrence during the winter, and is not to be played with in Cook's Strait. Before leaving Teawaiti, we experienced its violence, and were obliged to use every precaution to prevent the ship dragging ashore. Fortunately the harbours in the Strait are so numerous and good, that no vessel need remain out during a gale.

We had a strong instance of the strictness with which some of the natives observe the ceremony of the taboo, or, as they call it, tapu. An old chief here, the uncle of the three young chiefs I have mentioned, is also considered a sacred person, and endowed with the power of healing, consecrating, cursing, &c. None of his people would drink out of any vessel which he had touched. One of them, therefore, gives him his liquids by pouring it over the palm of his hand into the old gentleman's mouth. We had, on landing, made a fire on the beach, as usual, and some of the party commenced cooking. The spot we had selected turned out to be tabooed; and if we had not been under the protection of some of the family we should, doubtless, have been required to pay for this breach of observances. We were allowed, however, to occupy the place; but no one would touch anything cooked at our fire, or in any of our utensils, nor taste of anything out of our mugs or cups. By this self-denial they debarred themselves from dining after us, as they had been accustomed to do, but no temptation could induce them to break through the custom.

Seeing a painted burial-place in a corner of the beach, we naturally thought that some person of consequence had

MISREPRESENTATIONS OF NAYTI.

been interred there, and that the place was, therefore, sacred; but, on inquiry, it proved that the old sorcerer had had his hair cut a short time ago, and that the locks were thus entombed, and had consecrated the adjoining ground.

Friday, Sept. 13th. – We sailed from Guard's Island with a fair wind, and, leaving Admiralty Bay, stood for Point Jackson; but meeting a sudden south-east breeze, and our native crew being unable to pull against it, we were obliged to put into Port Gore, half-way down which bay we took the beach.

This harbour, of which you have a chart taken by the master of H.M.S. Alligator, in 1834, is an admirable port of refuge for ships caught by a gale in the Strait, and affords perfect shelter and anchorage. The place where we landed is a summer fishing-station, and well stocked with turnips. It also has a hut, which we found a luxury at night, when it rained heavily. Enai joined us in his canoe, and caught fish and shot birds for our mess. He expressed himself very jealously of Nayti, and tried to disparage him. Though of the same tribe, he cannot bear to hear of Nayti's adventures and reception in England. He even would not allow that his name is Nayti, and only knew him as Eriki Nono, which, being translated, is Leek Bottom. I was informed by Nayti that Eriki signifies chief; but he has since allowed that it is a nickname, corrupted from Dicky, which he acquired in youth. This assumption of rank, which he thinks we value, is, however, to be greatly excused in Nayti; for in London he had every temptation to assume caste, both by people ad-dressing him as chief, prince, &c., and by the free entry its supposed possession gave him to some society. His imperfect knowledge of the nature of relationship led him to mislead persons in England talking to him about his family. Instead of being one of a numerous family, of which he spoke, he has no brothers or sisters. These brothers turn out to be cousins, and no relation of his was married to Mr. Bell, of Mana, as related in his evidence before the Lords' Committee. I mention these discrepancies with no view of blaming Nayti, but for the purpose of showing how little reliance

FINENESS OF THE CLIMATE.

is to be placed on any information taken from the natives. We have had so many instances of misrepresentation and exaggeration, which, upon examining, did not appear to be wilful perversions of truth, but the effects of a habit of boasting and colouring, that we now never believe anything coming from these people without due caution and allowance. Enai's envy of Nayti's acquirement of European habits was strongly displayed, and is another proof, if such were wanting, of the anxiety of the natives to see and mix with foreigners.

Sunday, Sept. 15th. – The south-east gale, which generally lasts three days in the Strait, kept us yesterday confined to the port, and, as we did not leave our cove, we were almost without resources to pass the time. To-day, after walking as far as the limits of the bay permitted, Mr. Wynen, at the request of our native crew, and of Enai's followers, read prayers; at which, though they understand not a word of them, our friends seemed edified.

Monday, Sept. 16th. – We left Port Gore at 7 A.M., and, finding a fair wind as soon as we had rounded Point Jackson, arrived on board ship at Teawaiti, at 3 P.M. The excursion, though disappointing as respects the Oyerri, has been valuable in making me acquainted with that place and Port Gore. The bivouacking in the end of winter, during eleven nights, had no bad effects on any of the party; and here I may corroborate all that has been said and written of the qualities of the climate of this country. The night air, however humid, has not the same effects on the lungs and limbs as in most parts of Europe; and the most genial days occur even at the worst season of the year, as was proved by our enjoying bathing in the sea and the fresh-water river, throughout our trip.

Tuesday, Sept. 17th. – I had intended immediately on my return to enter into negociation with the heads of the Kafia tribe, for the acquisition of the Oyerri, as a fine harbour of refuge in the Strait, and certainly possessing the best means of communication between it and the plains, if any such exist, of the southern island. From informa-tion I received, however, this morning, that the missionary schooner, which I have mentioned before, had, on its visit

NATIVE TREATMENT OF THE SICK.

to Port Nicholson, taken messages to the chiefs there, not to dispose of any land, and that Mr. Williams was expected from the Bay of Islands shortly, I determined to hasten my departure from the Sound, and not to proceed to Cloudy Bay till I had crossed the Strait. I was also urged to this resolution by witnessing the eagerness with which many of the settlers at Teawaiti watched my movements, with a view of purchasing patches of land wherever it was likely the Company might be led to locate emigrants, and by finding in Mr. Barrett, a respectable man, desirous to give me his valuable assistance with the natives of Port Nicholson. I waited, therefore, for nothing but a fair wind to get out of the Sound at the southern entrance. Mr. Jerningham Wakefield completed here a sketch of the Oyerri, from the Strait to the islands in the fresh water have mentioned, which, though made under disadvantageous circumstances, very faithfully represents the course of our voyage. I enclose it herewith.

Wednesday. – This morning the slight shock of an earthquake was felt on shore here, but not on board the ship. A calm prevented us sailing, as I had intended. News arrived from Pererua, which is a small river abreast of Mana, that the Boiling Water tribe, so called from inhabiting the neighbourhood of some hot springs, had killed six native missionaries, who had wandered amongst them, and eaten their bodies, but offered their heads for sale to my informant. The chief of the tribe had declared that he would not be a missionary, but would eat all that he could find, and make cartridges of their books.

The wife of the principal chief, or rather his youngest and favourite wife, was taken seriously ill to-day at Teawaiti. She was removed from the house into an open shed near it, and kept without food, according to the universal native custom upon such occasions. As her death was hourly expected by Tipi and his friends, an incessant groaning and weeping was kept up around her, and discharges of muskets repeated at short intervals. Our ship-surgeon was sent for, and restored the patient for the time by means of a little wine, and by removing her back to the warm hut. The usual panacea for native complaints where

CAPTURE OF WHALES.

there are Englishmen, is a dose of Epsom salts, which are highly esteemed.

Thursday, Sept. 19th. – Unable to leave the channel, I once more ascended the hills, from whence I saw the boats of the station tow in a whale from the Strait. Some dispute, a thing of by no means unfrequent occurrence, took place as to which party she belonged to – one boat having secured the mother, whilst the calf, which detained her near the spot, had been previously made fast by another. The natives, who man one boat here, usually receive 20l. for striking a whale, although they require the aid of an European crew to kill it. Upon this occasion, they were urged by a rival agent to insist upon more. As no competent umpire was at hand, the affair seemed likely to cause much contention, and a forcible seizure was in preparation for to-morrow. The whale measured sixty feet in length, and would produce about eight tons of oil.

Port Nicholson, Friday, Sept. 20th. – We weighed anchor at daylight, and left the Sound with the tide and a north-west wind. The exit under these circumstances is extremely easy and perfectly safe. We have thus realized the passage round the island of Alapawa, which was surmised to exist by many in England. The chart of the Channel and of the Sound combined, by Capt. Chaffers, the first from his own survey, the latter from Cook, will give you an accurate idea of this part of the coast of the Strait.

The width of the Strait, from the southern entrance of Queen Charlotte's Sound to the headlands of Port Nicholson, is about thirty miles. We had to beat into the harbour, and came to an anchor at three in the afternoon. In one of our charts this harbour is represented as having a bar at its entrance. In beating in we had an opportunity of sounding across it in every direction, and we nowhere found less than 8 1/2 fathoms water, but in most places from 9 to 15 from the heads to our anchorage, behind the large island in the centre of the harbour. A reef, as laid down in other charts, runs off from the western point of the harbour; but the outermost rock, as well as the others, are far out of water at high tide; and when a beacon shall

DESCRIPTION OF PORT NICHOLSON.

be placed on the point of the reef, and a lighthouse on the eastern head, no harbour in the world will be more easy to run or work into by day or night. As it is, it seems astonishing that so few vessels come in here; for the navigation of the entrance could not perplex a novice in nautical matters, the harbour is most desirable, and the settlements in it supply a larger provision of the usual produce of the Strait than either Cloudy Bay or Queen Charlotte's Sound. The reef, or rather the name of a reef, has, however, so kept ships away, that, with the exception of the missionary schooner, from the Bay of Islands, no vessel has been here before for two years, although the numerous whalers frequenting the coast are frequently greatly inconvenienced by a want of fresh provisions.

On entering the harbour, a fine expanse of water presents itself to the view. The distance from the reef and from the top of the harbour inside, to the beach at the bottom of it, is about six miles, and three or four in width, over the whole of which is found anchorage ground; and in the deep bay, which forms the real harbour, perfect shelter from all winds. In the whole space no inconvenience can arise to any vessel with the usual precautions, as none but the true wind is felt instead of the flurries, which are so troublesome in the other ports I have been in on the southern side of the Strait. An island, placed near midway down the harbour, is of considerable size, and offers itself as well adapted for a fort, which would command the entrance and the whole extent between the hills which enclose Port Nicholson to the east and west. These hills are by no means of the formidable height of those in the Sound and in the Oyerri. They are covered with trees of a brighter foliage than those we had left in the morning, and present no obstacles to their cultivation. In the beauty of their appearance they reminded us of the woods of Mount Edgecombe, the last we saw in England.

We had not anchored, when we received on board two canoes full of natives, who hailed Mr. Barrett as an old friend and companion in danger. Epuni, an old chief, eagerly inquired the motives of our visit, and betrayed the most lively satisfaction at being informed that we wished

DESIRE OF EUROPEAN COLONIZATION EXPRESSED BY THE NATIVE CHIEFS.

to buy the place, and bring white men to it. He was followed by Warepori, his nephew, who is about thirty-five years old, and has for some years superseded the older chiefs in influence, by his prowess in war, and skill in the rude arts cultivated by these people. He also, in few words, expressed his desire to see white people here, and his willingness to sell the land, which was solemnly made over to him by the natives of this place five years ago, when the greater portion of them emigrated to one of the Chatham Islands in an English vessel, whose master they partly obliged to carry them. Warepori and the six tribes which now inhabit the whole district of Port Nicholson, were a little before that time driven out of their own country in the neighbourhood of Mount Egmont, by the tribes about the boiling springs, and have the same right to this place as Raupero has to Entry Island, and as the Waikato people have to Kawia, from which they expelled the latter chief. This right is that of possession, sanctified in this case, in the opinion of the natives of all these parts, by the formal cession of the land, by the natives who abandoned it, and constitutes the lawful power of use and disposal throughout these islands. Moreover, as regards this district, there is no one who disputes his claim; for the original possessors have made their homes at the Chathams, and having greatly decreased since their departure, would be unable, if so disposed, to regain their ceded territory.

The two chiefs remained on board at night. They informed us that the schooner had left some native missionaries here, who were instructed to have houses and chapels built by the time Mr. Williams was expected, with which orders they had complied. In discussing the merits of the missionary labours, as opposed to the former practices of the natives, viz., those of war and cannibalism, they deprecated the constant occupation of praying and singing which took people off from their potato-grounds and canoes; the younger one declaring that the incessant worship had nearly driven him mad, whilst they at the same time warmly denounced any further fighting. "What we want," they said "is to live in peace, and to have white

people come amongst us. We are growing old," alluding to the numerous aged chiefs on shore, "and want ourchildren to have protectors in Europeans, but we don't wish for the missionaries from the north. They are natives. We have been long told of vessels coming from Europe. One has at length arrived; and we sell our land and harbour, and live with the white people when they come to us."

The old man asked what the missionaries meant when they said that all who were not missionaries were devils; and said that they had told him his father would come and see him again, "when every body knew that his father had been dead and eaten these thirty years."

Saturday, Sept. 21st. – This morning the two chiefs renewed the conversation respecting the sale of the land, and begged me to go and look at the place, and tell them what I thought of it. They did not wish to talk any more about disposing of it till I had seen it; and Warepori said that he should go and finish a large canoe he was working at, and that we should not see him for two or three days, by which time I could tell him whether the place suited me.

I accordingly went on shore at the bottom of the harbour, and procuring a small canoe, proceeded with a chief, who had been appointed to show me every thing, up the freshwater river which empties itself in the harbour at about amile distant from our anchorage. This river is seven or eight feet deep at its mouth, where it spreads itself over a large extent, forming a lagoon influenced by the tide. It has also made for itself three other streams, which divide at a distance of many miles from its mouth, and increase the extent of inundated land. The valley in which it flows seems to be about forty miles in length, and is from three to four miles broad. On each side gently sloping hills, about 200 feet in height, covered with timber, bound it to the east and west as far as a very high range of mountains, partially capped with snow. At about three miles up the river, commences a grove of fine trees, of the best description for ship and house building, intermixed with large pine trees. One of these trees, called the kaikatea, mea-

SURVEY OF THE NEIGHBOURHOOD OF PORT NICHOLSON.

sured twenty-one feet in circumference, and was nearly the same size upwards for sixty feet, without a branch; and I did not select this one for its peculiarity. The pines would furnish masts and yards of all sizes. A tree called by the English here the honeysuckle, furnishes excellent wood for boat-building. The only white man living in Port Nicholson showed me a boat of eight tons, which he had constructed of this wood, the planks of which he had bent himself in the sun. He had sawed the whole of it with a hand saw, and made the nails for it out of old hoops.

As I ascended the river, which, in its main branch, has forty yards of breadth, I found its course obstructed by large trees carried down by the stream, but by no means to the same extent as in the Oyerri. The current also is much less rapid than that river, and the banks present no indications of occasional inundations. The land on both sides is a black soil, and in the patches the natives cultivate produces potatoes, Indian corn, and oats, which are carelessly thrown amidst the stumps of the half-destroyed trees and the most beautiful shrubs. I reached six or seven miles up the stream, which I there found of the same width and depth, but here and there more obstructed by fallen trees and collected stones. At length, two immense trees lying across the stream from bank to bank, formed a partial dam, which prevented the further progress of the canoe. The wood was here impenetrable, and precluded the idea of pursuing the course of the river on foot. I had seen, however, all that was necessary to confirm my opinion that the whole extent of the valley will be capable of cultivation, and will amply repay the labour of clearing, by its extreme fertility, when the river shall be confined and its streams united. This may easily be effected; and then the harbour of Port Nicholson will possess a river worthy of it. What may be the termination of this valley I cannot surmise from the confused and varying accounts of the inhabitants, though it is not unlikely that it may communicate with the fertile plains between Mount Egmont and East Cape.

The natives assured me, that they had been as high upthe river as could be done in two days, in a canoe, which,

considering the obstacles in the opposing stream, and the easy manner in which these people like to travel, would not be more than twenty-five miles from where I was. I feel assured, however, that this is far short of the source of the stream, which cannot rise nearer than the high range of mountains which closes the valley to the northward. The idea of its running through a gorge to the left of the mountains, is favoured by the fact of hostile tribes having occasionally descended the river to within a few miles of Port Nicholson, to cut off any families they might find occupied in their potato grounds on its banks; but the valley requires exploring up to the mountains, for which purpose a strong expedition and a fortnight's leisure are necessary. Hereafter I promise myself the execution of such a project.

We found fifty or sixty people working up the river at their gardens, and a few higher up, who fled yesterday on hearing our guns, when the New Zealand flag was saluted. These were reassured by our guide, and returned with us. Those we had passed in our ascent, had prepared baskets of potatoes in their ovens for us on our return; and all eagerly greeted me as lately from Europe, direct. The white missionaries they consider as much natives as themselves. At one of their stations they inquired of my guide, as the canoe glided down the current, whether the ship contained missionaries. "No," said he, "they are all devils." Their shouts of laughter betrayed their acquaintance with his allusion, and their opinion of the uncharitable tenet which had given rise to it.

Sunday, Sept. 22nd. – An equinoctial N.W. gale blew to-day with great violence, but did not affect the ship or her anchors. Some canoes came off, and a numerous native audience assisted at the church service. One canoe, in running for the ship, struck her side and upset. Those in her, including a woman, seemed to think but little of the accident, holding on the bottom of the canoe till a boat picked them up. In the evening a messenger arrived from abreast of Entry Island, with tidings of the probability of a fight: the Boiling-water tribe having mustered in that neighbourhood in strength, and, being set on by

PROPOSAL TO PURCHASE LAND.

Raupero, might, it was thought, invade this territory. All the natives hurried on shore, at the risk of capsizing, to talk over the matter, and make preparations for war.

Monday, Sept. 23. – This morning, I went to visit all the settlements in the harbour. At one of the largest, we found Warepori at work at a large canoe, the bottom of which consists of a single tree, sixty feet long, hollowed out with the adze. In the course of the forenoon, two large canoes put into the cove where we were, at a signal from him. They were on their way to the principal village, near our anchorage, carrying the chiefs of two tribes to a meeting at which the proposed sale of the land was to be discussed. When these had landed, there were assembled about sixty men; and the affair which occupied all minds was brought on the carpet. After an introduction of the matter by Warepori, the leader of the opposition, by name Buacawa, rose and addressed the assembly. He objected to the sale of the place on the score of the treatment to be expected by the natives from white settlers, and the inexpediency of parting with the homes which they had obtained, after so much suffering, when driven from their native territory. He spoke for an hour, and evinced considerable power. His diction and gesticulation were most vigorous; and the most ignorant of the language in which he spoke, and the most inexperienced in physiognomy, could not fail of taking the sense of his oration from his expression and action. Matangi, the oldest, and formerly, the most influential Chief of these tribes, favoured the sale, and almost cried with joy when he spoke of the white people coming to protect the Port Nicholson people from their enemies, and to put an end to war. Warepori replied to his opponent, and talked a good deal about himself. He said that he was known in Europe, and that the ship had been sent out to him. Before he concluded, all but the leader of the opposition had moved off to another part of the ground, upon the appearance of a large mess of baked birds and potatoes, which had been cooked in honour of our visit.

I favoured these discussions, from feeling assured that the more the affair was debated, the more binding would

ITS DISCUSSION BY THE NATIVES.

be the bargain, should I succeed in concluding it; and in themselves they had nothing disagreeable, for, in allseriousness, I can assert that I never saw a deliberative assembly conduct its business in a more regular or decorous manner, and that the solemnity of the appeals of the speakers, and the encouraging applause or earnest dissent of the audience, were becoming the importance of the transaction they were engaged in. At the close of the arguments, which ended in a decision in favour of the sale, most of the meeting went away in canoes to the chief village, where another debate was to take place. Indeed, in every settlement this floating parliament assented upon the occasion, and formally proceeded to take the sense of its inhabitants. It realized, after a manner, Mr. Cresset Pelham's notion of an ambulant legislature.

Tuesday, September 24. – I was on shore to-day at the principal village, when the debate was renewed. It ended as yesterday, in a large majority deciding to sell me all their rights in this harbour and district. At its conclusion, I formally asked the Chiefs, through Mr. Barrett, whether they had made up their minds, – and they asked me, "Have you seen the place"? and how do you like it?" I replied, that I had seen all I wanted, and that it was good; upon which they told me that it was now for me to speak, for that they had decided to sell their land upon their own judgment, and by the advice of their friends in the neighbourhood, notwithstanding the dissent of some grumblers, who owned but little of it, and whose only argument against the sale was that the white people would drive the natives away, as in Port Jackson. They had previously had fully explained to them, that a reserve of land was to be made for them, and showed their knowledge of its meaning, by now referring to it, in answer to this argument, and by saying, that they would live with the English as with each other. I begged the chiefs to go on board the ship to-morrow, when I would let them see what I would give for the land. Afterwards they spoke but little of the affair, and gave us some specimens of sham-fights, in which all the violent distortions of the countenance, putting out the tongue to the greatest extent, &c., &c., which you have heard of, took place.

THE GOODS TO BE GIVEN IN EXCHANGE EXHIBITED ON BOARD.

On arriving on board, I decided upon the manner in which I would deal with these people, and upon the amount of property which I would give them in exchange for their land and harbour. I found a territory of forty or fifty miles in length, by twenty-five or thirty in breadth, containing a noble harbour, accessible at all times, and in the very highway between New Holland and the Western World, and land exceeding in fertility any I have seen in these islands, and equalling that of an English garden. I found a race of people of warlike habits, and but little used to intercourse with Europeans, just emerging from their barbarism, and inclined to cultivate the arts and intimacy of Great Britain, – appreciating the protection from their hostile and still savage enemies, that British settlers would afford, and anxiously desiring to assist them in their first labours in a new country. I found that these people, mustering, upon the slightest call, three hundred armed men, and quite capable, as they have repeatedly proved themselves to be, of retaining their possessions, and never having parted with a single acre of land in their district, by sale or otherwise, now, for the first time, disposed to make over their country to me, as the representative of a body of my countrymen, in consideration of the promises of remuneration and advantage I had held out to them. Under these circumstances, and following out the spirit of my instructions, I determined to act in the most liberal manner in the transaction. Moreover, I was most anxious to distinguish this bargain from all others that have been made in New Zealand, – that none of the haggling and petty trading which usually take place between the Europeans and the natives of this country should enter into any operations between the latter and the Company's agents.

I, therefore, decided that I would lay before the chiefs exactly the property I intended to give them in exchange for what they offered; and that I would acquaint them with my firm resolution not to exceed this amount at their customary solicitation; but that the value of this property should not be regulated by what has hitherto been considered the standard of exchange in similar transactions.

Accordingly, on Wednesday, Sept. 25th, everything was in activity, on board, at daylight, and the articles for barter were brought upon the upper deck. At least one hundred natives were present to witness this operation, and, if I except a good deal of chattering, afforded no obstruction or inconvenience. It required much time to open the numerous bales and cases, and to take out a certain quantity from each, so that the day passed without my being able to specify the amount of barter to be received. In the evening, I requested Warepori to acquaint his friends, that it would be impossible to assort the various things they were to have, with such a crowd on the decks; when he made them a speech from the poop, and was the first to go on shore, – whither all followed him, with the promise of not coming off to the ship till I sent for them.

Thursday, September 26. – When the various articles had been selected, I sent on shore for Warepori and all the chiefs. They came off, with their sons, and, after a strict examination, approved of the quantity and quality of the things, but seemed embarrassed and anxious amongst themselves how the division amongst the six tribes – which compose the population here, though they are all part of the Nyatiawa tribe – was to be effected with satisfaction to all parties. I, therefore, proposed that the lots should be made on our deck, – and in doing so, though I incurred much trouble, I had no fear of any commotion, and was desirous that the affair should pass entirely free from the accustomed dissensions amongst these people, and that the remembrance of it should not be embittered by any unpleasant occurrence. I sent also for the principal missionary, to be a witness to the delivery of the goods; but found him afterwards so exceedingly importunate on his own account, and held in such slight respect by the chiefs, – afraid, also, of being a party to the transaction, in case of future regrets on their parts, – that I as not sorry when the plea of a sick child took him on shore gain.

As, of course the affair could not be concluded without more words, when everything was ready for distribution a debate arose in due form, respecting the reception of the goods by the people on shore, part of whom are slaves taken at

FURTHER DISCUSSION.

Taranake. Warepori commenced by entreating the chiefs to use their influence to prevent a scramble, when the boats should land the things at their respective settlements. He was followed by Buacawa, whose eloquence was of the same violent character as on shore, and is the result, I find, of a bad temper and love of contradiction. He spoke amidst the repeated cries of "Korrero, korrero," – or Speak, speak, – which were sometimes used seriously; at others, when he rather exceeded the bounds of truth, sneeringly, in the same way that "Hear!" is applied in England. After enumerating generally the articles to be received, he described what he felt assured would be the conduct of the tribes when the goods were landed – namely, that every one would rush for something, and when they found that there was not enough of each article to go round amongst them all, many would be dissatisfied. He said that every one had cleared a bit ofground, and that many would then find themselves without anything in exchange for it. "What, then, will you say," he exclaimed, "when you find that you have parted with all the land between Rimerap and Turakirai, and from the sea to the Tararua? What will you say when many, many white men come here, and drive you all away into the mountains? How will you like it, when you go to the whiteman's ship or house, in expectation of hospitality, and he tells you, that you have been paid for the land, and to be gone, – with eyes turned up to heaven, and invocations onis knees to his God?"

To all this harangue he suited his actions, and wound up by declaring that there were about half the number of goods shown as really were on the deck. Upon which the hearers, who had examined them, shouted "No! No!" The debate closed at sunset; all but the elder chiefs went on shore for the night, and Warepori promised that the affair should be settled to-morrow.

Friday, September 27. – This morning some little delay took place in the division of the lots, by the chiefs being unwilling to open the cases of muskets, which they wished to go on shore whole, to make as much show as possible, and have the quantity of property they received for their place at least not diminished in the reports of any strangers

CONCLUSION OF THE PURCHASE.

who might see it, and carry the news amongst the neighbouring tribes. I overcame this difficulty by presenting them with an additional case of twenty muskets, which, with five I had already given, enabled them to send one to each of the settlements entire. The division of the other goods then commenced, and was conducted by Warepori with great fairness. On every case of muskets he placed a nearly equal portion of goods, till they were expended. He reserved, I believe, but little for himself, beyond some powder and cartridges, which he told me it was necessary he should keep, in case of a war. Some of the chiefs showed an equal disinterestedness, declaring that all they wanted was the white people to come to live with them. At three o'clock the distribution terminated. It had been repeatedly interrupted by speeches from different chiefs; but the leader of the opposition, having once made up his mind that the sale was to take place, showed no further hostility. He represented one settlement, at the mouth of the river, and received his share without speaking, and expressed himself perfectly satisfied, afterwards, with his lot. The deed, drawn on parchment, was then brought upon deck, and after a full explanation to all present, by Mr. Barrett, of its contents, was signed by the chiefs and their sons, whom they brought up to the capstan, in order to assure me that they looked to the future, and to bind their children in the bargain made by themselves. Nayti, who had returned yesterday evening from a visit to his relations, was a subscribing witness, and occasionally explained the nature of the deed, as relates to the reserve of land. His want of weight with these people had prevented him in the morning from instancing his own treatment in England, in contradiction to the anticipations of Buacawa. At least, I am disposed to attribute his declining to take so good an opportunity of serving his employers, and acquitting himself of a debt of gratitude to this motive, rather than to bad feeling.

After the execution of the deed, the goods were placed in our boats, and landed at the different settlements. Our people assured me that not the slightest tumult took place on these occasions, the chief of each tribe taking upon

VISIT TO THE NATIVE SETTLEMENTS.

himself the distribution of the goods amongst the families. Thus has terminated, in the most satisfactory manner, this first and important purchase for the Company.

In the evening Warepori and Epuni dressed themselves in their newly-acquired suits of clothes, and made a very respectable appearance at table. The former retired early, Iand came to my cabin to beg leave to undress, as he found the coat and shoes very uneasy on him, in comparison with his native mat, or the blanket which he usually wears, or the state of nature in which he works at his canoes.

Saturday, September 28. – The weather was very bad to-day, and prevented communication with the shore by canoes. One of our boats was out fishing with the seine, but took very little. There are places in this port abounding in fish of the best quality, such as the snapper, sole, hake, haboaka, and a species of salmon, which we have found excellent eating. The natives are experienced in the seasons and times of day, and weather, in which to Iemploy themselves in fishing; and hereafter I doubt not that the fishing grounds here will afford occupation and profit to many English boats' crews.

Sunday, September 29. – After service I went round the settlements in the harbour with Warepori, in order to see how the people were satisfied with their goods, and to invite them to a war dance at the principal village to-morrow. I wished to muster them, in order to know their strength, and to convince them that I placed entire confidence in them. On landing at the Taranake, or slave-settlement, Warepori begged me to take a place in a canoe which was hauled upon the beach, and seating himself, proceeded to address the occupants of this wretched village. He represented the value of English settlers coming to the place, and excused the smallness of the quantity of goods he had sent to them, on the plea of the free settlements having required the greater share; but, concluded he, "You have now arms, and should Raupero or the Boiling-water tribe attack us, you will be able to defend yourselves. If we go to war, and any of you fall, you have now the satisfaction of knowing that such will he burned with their muskets and cartouche boxes, and that

DISINTERESTEDNESS OF A CHIEF.

their friends will mourn over them, as men who died with weapons in their hands." By his tact, in thus suiting his speech to the taste of his audience, he soon conciliated them; and when one of the missionaries appeared, and reproached him for not having kept one half of the land for them, and the white men of his profession expected from the north, they applauded his rebuke of him, which was eloquently delivered, and contained matter which I little expected from him. He asked him how he, a child, dared to reprove him for anything he had done? and whether, when the land had been sold to the white missionaries, they might not have sold it again, perhaps to Frenchmen or Americans? "This rangatira-hoya," i. e., gentleman-soldier, he said, drawing attention to me, "will bring many people here from England; and how could they live in the same place with their enemies? They are not all Englishmen that come from Europe; I have been in Port Jackson and know the English, and none others shall come to interfere with those who are coming to live here. There is a man from Europe on board the ship who is not an Englishman; I know him by his tongue." This was in allusion to the German naturalist. After re-entering the boat, he said he wished to satisfy everybody; that he had reserved nothing for himself; that when he had learned English, he would go to England; and, laying his head on my knee, he added, that if the natives were dissatisfied with him, he would live with the English, and they should be his fathers. He then invited the young men to attend at the principal village to-morrow, six miles off, at a war-dance in honour of their visitors.

Before leaving the head of the harbour, I proposed to buy the houses and chapels that the missionary delegates have built on a beautiful piece of flat land, already cleared, on which I propose to plant the first British settlement; but Warepori objected to my paying anything more – saying, "Have you not already paid for the land andeverything on it?" I engaged, however, the natives to be active in collecting provisions, clearing the land, and bringing timber for houses to this spot.

At all the other settlements, similar scenes took place;

FORMAL VISIT TO THE SHORE.

and I had the satisfaction to be received on all hands as a benefactor, and to hear the reiterated assurances of contentment with the purchase-money, and joy at the expected arrival of settlers.

I must not omit to do justice to the chiefs who are parties to the deed, by informing you that they were equally anxious that the sale should take place, and that the purchase should be valid and binding on themselves and heirs. They repeatedly informed their people that the land would be gone from them for ever, with the exception of what the white people would allow them to live on and cultivate; that they would never receive any further payment for it, but would be paid for any labour they might perform for us; and that the contract would be held as sacred as similar ones, which are frequent amongst themselves.

Monday, September 30. – In the course of the morning, we observed the natives, from all parts of the port, mustering at the prescribed place for the appointed ceremony. Although the weather was bad, canoes full of armed men, and men, women, and children, on foot, hastened to the rendezvous. Warepori, and the chiefs who had slept onboard, went on shore early to make preparations for our reception. In every direction on the beach, the native ovens threw up clouds of smoke; and an immense flag-staff was reared, with the assistance of our carpenter, on which to hoist the colours of New Zealand, which I intend to leave here. In the afternoon, at a signal from the shore, all the cabin party and those who could be spared forward, landed, and were received by about three hundred or more men, women, and children. The former, amounting to two hundred, were all armed – most of them with muskets or fowling-pieces. Spears, tomahawks, axes of various sizes, pointed sticks, and the dozen umbrellas which they had received from us, figured in the hands of the others. They were divided into two parties, which occupied separate parts of the village and beach, and were led respectively by Warepori, who insisted upon wearing a large hussar cloak of mine, and was armed with a beautiful meri of green-stone, and Kaihaya; and an old chief, known by

THE WAR DANCE.

the nick-name of Dog's-ear, and for his warlike feats, and his detestation of Raupero and his tribe.

Immediately on landing, I had the New Zealand flag hoisted at the flag-staff-head, when the same was done at the main of the ship, which saluted it with twenty-one guns, greatly to the satisfaction of the assembly. Warepori then inquired whether we were ready, and apologized for the absence of many men, either absent on an expedition to the westward, employed in their potato-grounds, or deterred by the lowering state of the weather.

Preparatory to the review, each party shook off their clothes and took to their arms; after which they went through the customary dance, which excites them to vigour of action, to the cadence of an harmonious recitativo, breathed out deeply from the lungs. Leaving their clothes, as a regiment leaves its knapsacks prior to the execution of rapid manoeuvres, each party took its station on the beach, at about two hundred yards' distance from its opponent. Then commenced the war-dance, which consists of saltatory movements, whilst one hand, extended upwards, grasps the weapon, and the other, at each descent of the body, slaps the thigh. The whole body of performers kept perfect time in these movements, and in the deep guttural sounds which accompanied them. The two columns then passed each other at the utmost speed, and, wheeling about with great precision, took up a different ground, nearer to each other. After the dance had been repeated – and in this the women joined, making the most frightful distortions of countenance, and portraying the demons of discord by their appearance and action, a challenge was brought from one party to the other, and delivered in pantomimic signs; and you may judge of our surprise, when we found that the bearer of this gage, disguised in an easy undress, and his head ornamented with a profusion of feathers of the houya, gracefully arranged, was the catechist from the Bay of Islands, Richard Davis, so named after his white godfather and teacher. He was most expressive in his action, and throughout the scene; and, subsequently, in bringing up a reinforcement from the next village with great rapidity, showed that his long

IMPORTANCE OF THE PURCHASE.

sojourn amongst his reverend employers had not changed his inborn tastes, or abated his skill in the sport. As the day was closing in, and this was intended as a most amicable meeting of the tribes, no sham-fight took place, but the chiefs addressed the forces, and assured each other of mutual good will. One of the bodies then performed a war-song, in the execution of which great exertion of lungs and limbs, and accuracy of time, were displayed.

The native oven, which contained our dinner, was then opened, and we were invited to attend. After doing justice to the joints of a pig which had been killed for the occasion, and the whole of which we were bound in native politeness to take away with us, however little we might eat, we drank the healths of the chiefs and people of Port Nicholson, in champagne, and, christening the flag-staff, took formal possession of the harbour and district, in the name of the Company, amidst the hearty cheers of our party, and the assembled natives.

The whole scene passed in the greatest harmony, and with a display of good feeling towards us on the part of our new friends, hitherto, I imagine, never elicited by European treatment. I have dwelt on the details, with tiresomeness I am afraid, lest the Company should fail to know the prospects of a good reception of emigrants on its possessions, and that families contemplating settling on them may at once relieve their minds of the impression that has been made by many late works on this country, that the disposition and habits of the aborigines render a residence here unsafe. The probable future importance also of this place cannot be too much impressed upon those emigrants disposed to turn their attention to commercial or maritime pursuits. The land contained in the district will amply supply provisions for the settlers and for exportation, and will probably be found connected by valleys with districts still more suitable to British husbandry. The harbour is the only one into which a vessel of more than 100 tons can enter with safety on a line of coast of 600 miles in extent, from Maunkou to the Thames, and must become the depot of the interior of this line, to be supplied by a coasting trade, and of all the country on both sides of

PREPARATIONS FOR DEPARTURE.

Cook's Strait, for the purposes of importation of foreign, and exportation to other countries of native produce. It also presents the most desirable place in these islands for the fitting out of whale-ships, not less than 400 of which annually procure cargoes of oil on the banks to the east-ward of the southern island; and for ship-building it offers timber in endless quantity, second only in quality to the cowdie; whilst for every other purpose wood of every description encumbers the land.

Captain Chaffers was away from the ship for five days last week, and thoroughly surveyed the entrance to the port, its headlands, and bays. His chart, which accompanies this, will inform you that I have taken upon myself, subject to the approbation of the Directors, to give names to the most remarkable bays and points, preserving such European appellations as have been recognized and adopted in charts, and such native ones in the Company's possessions, which are easy of pronunciation, and describe their extent in the deed. I send also herewith a copy of that document.

Thursday, October 1. – It remained for me now only to leave a person to watch the interests of the Company, and to make preparations for the arrival of settlers; and I had brought with me from Queen Charlotte's Sound a trustworthy man, well qualified by his knowledge of the language and habits of the people, for the purpose. I left with him saws, tools, garden-seeds, and various articles of trade, in which to pay for native labour, and to supply himself with food. Warepori undertook to put him up in a new house at his village, and to render him every assistance. I had landed also a sow, which had littered on our voyage from England, with her progeny, and the goats and poultry. I left Mr. Smith ample instructions to encourage the natives to build temporary houses at Thorndon, to plant potatoes, and to keep their pigs for their expected visitors; and supplied him with boards to place on the most prominent spots, on which is painted, "New Zealand Land Company."

The natives contemplate an almost immediate journey to Wainerap, or Palliser Bay, which they possess, for the

PROPOSED PURCHASES.

purpose of planting a stock of potatoes, and bringing back pigs which run wild there. To-day Warepori tabooed that place for me, and swore by his head that no one should have any of it till I had time to go to see it. It is a large bay to the eastward of this port, and contains a river and a large district of flat and fertile land. In these respects it is like Wairoa, near Cloudy Bay, and the valley of the Hutt here, all of which require some labour to make the land available, in consequence of the freshes inundating the flats at the mouths of the rivers. On my return to the strait, however, I shall see whether this tabooed place is worth paying for. Warepori's sudden regard for me has also opened the way to acquiring a large district of fine flat land at Taranaki and Moturoa, on the western coast in the neighbourhood of Mount Egmont. This land is not subject to the same inconvenience, having already produced to the Englishmen, who abandoned it with these natives, fine crops of wheat, Indian corn, garden vegetables, melons, and peaches. Some of the wheat was sent to Sydney and England, and was highly approved of. Should I be able to obtain possession of this tract, which is very extensive, and perfectly level, through the means I have obtained here, I shall be less anxious about purchases in the north, where I hear the missionaries and others have bought land at every place on the coast, including Kaipara and Manukou, where they have established schools and chapels. The district in question is between Kafia and Mount Egmont, abreast of the Sugar-Loaf Islands, and runs for thirty miles inland. The chiefs here, who were all born on these plains, look back with great regret to the time when they were obliged to abandon them, and are very desirous that they should be again opened to them by means of European settlers. They have selected Ewareh, the son of Epuni, and Tuarau, the grandson of the principal chief of the whole Nytiawa tribes, to accompany me to Taranaki, when it is hoped they will he able to open anegociation with the present possessors of the land, to whom they are both related.

Wednesday, October 2. – I was this morning up another branch of the river, much smaller than the main one, and

ARRIVAL IN CLOUDY BAY.

evidently only a back-water from it, except when heavy rains fill the main channel high up the valley, and force their way through this and two other branches. The land on both sides of this branch is of the same black alluvial soil, and covered with the most beautiful shrubs, in blossom, like a rare English garden. The grove, through which runs the stream, contains still finer trees than up the other branch, and teems with birds, which, with the ducks of all descriptions in the river, afford abundant sport. I am sorry that my time will not allow me to explore the source of these streams and of the river; but I feel persuaded that they will be found to unite higher up, and may with labour be continued as one river to the harbour.

Thursday, Oct. 3rd. – Having a day to spare, whilst Mr. Smith was establishing himself on shore, I again ascended all the branches of the river, accompanied by Captain Chaffers, who took their bearings. Our whale-boat was stopped in its progress about six miles up the river; and our trip led to no further result than confirming my opinion of the capabilities of the valley, as before stated.

Cloudy Bay, Friday, Oct. 4th. – All my arrangements being completed on shore, we weighed anchor this morning, and, taking with me Ewareh and Tuarau, we sailed for Cloudy Bay, in the mouth of which harbour we anchored this evening. The appearance of the Southern Island, after that of Port Nicholson, is most cheerless. The wind blew in violent flurries from the mountains, – a chain of which, inland, covered with eternal snow, added to the dreariness of the scene. To the eastward of the harbour, we saw the bay, at the bottom of which is Wairoa, of which district much has been said, and which was bought by a Mr. Blenkinsop, some years ago, for an old 6-pounder gun. The land about all this part of the coast is barren; and the only advantage which Cloudy Bay offers, over the neighbouring harbours, is its vicinity to the whaling-ground, for the shore parties is much inferior to Port Nicholson; and has only been used by them by accident, and because the other has been unknown. We found here the Honduras barque, from

THE OYERRI NOT ELIGIBLE FOR LOCATION.

London, taking in oil and bone from the shore parties. This is the only vessel that has been here for some months; and I have had no opportunity of sending to you since the 2nd of last month. Very few English whalers come here at any time; but, after the season, many American and French ships put in for provisions, which they buy dearly of the English sutlers.

Saturday, Oct. 5th. – We weighed anchor again this morning, and worked higher up the harbour, in which we saw four or five whaling settlements. There are about one hundred and twenty natives, of the Kafia tribe, at this place; and they exact payment for wood and water from ships. Ocean Bay is the only spot where there is any land worth cultivating, and that is of very small extent.

Sunday, Oct. 6th. – I find, to-day, that Mr. Guard and Mr. Wynen are in treaty with the family of the three chiefs I have mentioned as being of some consequence in this bay, for the purchase of the Oyerri for a party of speculators at Sydney, who deputed Mr. Wynen to examine that place, upon the flattering representations of the officers of the Pelorus. Notwithstanding the conduct of these Englishmen, in pretending to point out the Oyerri to me as a place fit for a location of emigrants by the Company, I have no reason to complain of their now trying to buy it for themselves, – for I at once, on seeing it, expressed my opinion of its incapability of being for a length of time anything beyond a harbour of refuge, and of the land in the valley of the fresh-water stream holding out no prospect to settlers, except after infinite labour and outlay. In all my conversations, therefore, on the subject, I rather disparaged the Oyerri, and may have given them the idea that I was not desirous to acquire it; whilst I secured Port Nicholson, which is so much more valuable, and for a part of which these very parties were, just previous to my arrival, attempting to negociate.

Wednesday, Oct. 9th. – Having completed our letters, and made our packages, to go by the Honduras, I am now only awaiting the arrival of Mr. Barrett from the Sound, to take our departure for Taranake and the west coast of the Northern Island. Tuarau and Ewareh will

SETTLERS IN CLOUDY BAY.

also return with him. I forgot to mention that, during our stay in Port Nicholson, these two men swam off from the ship, and saved the life of one of the cabin-boys, who had fallen out of a boat, at night. They spoke afterwards but little of the occurrence, and seemed to look upon it as a set-off against our boat having picked up their friends, who were upset a few days before.

This afternoon I visited some of the bays in this harbour. In one of them we found a whaling establishment, carried on by a Portuguese, for a mercantile house at Sydney. He had obtained, with four boats, sixty-five tons of oil during this season, and would have taken more, but had not received a supply of goods to carry on his business. From the ridge above his house is a view of the whole of Cloudy Bay, which extends from a promontory called the White Bluff, in the direction of Cape Campbell, to the western head of the real harbour of the bay, in which weare at anchor, called in some charts Underwood Harbour, but commonly bearing the name of the whole bay. This want of distinction between the whole and a part leads to frequent mistakes – many vessels having run into shoal water at the bottom of the bay, near Wairoa, whilst seeking the harbour, which is twelve miles to the westward.

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No. IV.

No. IV.

Sailing Directions by Mr. E. M. Chaffers, R.N. Commander of the Tory.

New Zealand Company's Ship Tory, Cloudy Bay, October 8, 1839.

COOK'S STRAITS.

VESSELS bound to Cook's Straits from the south-west should make the land about twenty miles to the south-west of Cape Farewell. The land about this part of the coast is high, and the distant mountains covered with snow. The high land suddenly terminates about Rocky Point, and a remarkable white way running down the side of the hill to the sea, is very conspicuous, and easily seen at thirty miles' distance. From the white way or cliff to Cape Farewell the coast runs gradually lower, and at about twenty miles' distance Cape Farewell appears like a low island, as will be seen by the views.

There is a shoal sandspit running off Cape Farewell, about twenty miles E. by N. Messrs. Guard and Barrett, who have had great experience on this part of the coast, are not aware of any other dangers off the Cape.

After passing Cape Farewell soundings may be obtained, in from fifty-four to forty-nine and forty-four fathoms, fine muddy sand and small broken shells.

Vessels passing Cape Farewell in the evening may pass the night in safety by standing off and on Blind Bay under easy sail, and keeping the lead going. The tide is not strong here, and the soundings regular, from forty-nine to forty-four fathoms, fine dark sand; whereas vessels running up the Straits in the night will get into strong tides, and unless well acquainted with the coast, may run into danger.

The navigation of Cook's Straits is easy, and less dangerous than the English Channel; and, with a good

SAILING DIRECTIONS – COOK'S STRAITS.

look out from the mast-head by day, and the lead going by night, a vessel may proceed to any part of the Straits in safety. There appears to be an erroneous opinion, in England, about rocks and shoals in Cook's Straits. I have questioned the natives of different tribes who have crossed the Straits in every direction, whether there is any danger in the middle of the Straits or not, and they all assert there is none, and that they have never heard of any; and I am satisfied that their information may be depended upon. Mr. Barrett, an Englishman, who has commanded vessels on this coast for many years, denies the existence of shoals in the Straits, but thinks that the tide-rips, which at times appear like breakers, has given rise to the opinion entertained of shoals in the Straits.

In running up the Straits on the south side, in clear weather, Stephen's Island may be seen at ten leagues' distance; the land is high, and covered with wood: at the north end of the island are high brown cliffs. From Stephen's Island to Cape Koemaroo the land is high with rugged peaks, and Cape Koemaroo is easily known, being the highest distant land, with two white patches near the point of the Cape, appearing at a distance like two sail under the land. The Brothers, two clusters of white rocks, about forty feet out of the water, are an excellent guide for the Cape. Point Jackson, forming the western entrance to Queen Charlotte's Sound, is a low brown point, and may be known by a small black rock about six feet out of the water, lying about one mile N.E. by E. of the point.

Vessels bound to Queen Charlotte's Sound should not come nearer to Point Jackson than two and a-half or three miles, to clear the reef lying off it; and when the Channel between Motuara Island and the main comes well open, stand in for Motuara Island. For a ship intending to anchor in Ship Cove there are two passages: in that between Motuara and the main lies a reef of rocks covered with kelp, which makes the passage on each side of the reef very narrow, with the disadvantage of being close under the land, and out of the influence of the steady wind: the best and clearest passage is between Long

Island and Motuara, where you have the advantage of a steady wind and clear channel, the shores of both islands being bold, close to; seven and eight fathoms at quarter of a cable distance.

At about one-quarter cable's distance off the south point of Motuara lies a small rock, awash at low water.

After rounding the south point of Motuara, Ship Cove lies open to your view west: it is the northern of two coves in the same bay. The soundings between Motuara and Ship Cove are ten and eleven fathoms; and if you have a westerly wind, and work into the Cove, you may stand to one-quarter cable's distance on each shore.

The best and most convenient anchorage in the Cove is in ten fathoms, fine dark sand over a clay bottom, good holding ground, about one and a half cable's distance from the sandy beach and watering place, and one cable from the south point, where you are well sheltered from the heavy south-west winds, and near to the watering place. The Tory lay here thirteen days, moored with a hawser to the shore, and filled twenty tuns of water in two days and a-half. There is a very good run of fresh water throug the middle of the beach; the water is soft and good; wood is in the greatest abundance and variety from the water's edge to the tops of the hills; there are several sorts that would answer admirably well for the purposes of ship-building, but it all appears too heavy for masts.

The Cove abounds with fish of many sorts – one resembling a small cod-fish is in great plenty: a few hooks and lines for two hours would procure sufficient for the day's consumption. There is a very good sandy beach on which to haul the Seine in the southern Cove.

This is an excellent place to refit, and in case of necessity, a vessel could heave down to the rocks near the south point of the Cove. The Cove is open to E. and S.E., a wind that seldom blows on this part of the coast; but even in case of a heavy gale from that quarter, there is nothing to fear, as it is protected by Motuara Island.

Supplies of pork and potatoes may be obtained at aneasy rate from the native village in the adjoining Cove to

the north. Potatoes are so plentiful, that in a few days ten tons were offered for sale.

The natives of this village are missionaries, and well behaved. The chief, Nyarewa, has several certificates from masters of vessels, of his former good conduct, which he has fully merited by what I have seen of him.

If a settlement should ever be made in this Cove, wharfs could easily be built alongside the south shore, alongside of which vessels might lay to discharge their cargoes.

The tides in the Sound are regular, but in entering, attention should be paid to their set on Cape Koemaroo and Point Jackson, as mentioned by Captain Cook. It is high water at Ship Cove, full and change of the moon, at 8h. 59m. P.M.

The latitude of Ship Cove, at the end of the rocks on the south side of the beach, is 41 deg. 5' 45" S., and the longitude, by mean of chronometers from England, is 174 deg. 20' 15" E., only differing three-quarters of a mile to the west from that assigned by Captain Cook. The variation of the compass is 14.20 E.

On the north side of Cook's Straits the land is high, but has not so rugged an appearance as on the other shore. In clear weather Capiti, or Entry Island, may easily be distinguished from Stephen's Island: it has one high hill near the centre, and slopes gradually down to the east and west, and is easily known by referring to the view. The Island of Mana, which lies near the coast between Entry Island and Cape Terrawaiti, is a low flat island with brownish cliffs, and not easily distinguished from the main land on the southern side. Cape Terrawaiti is very conspicuous, terminating in a small mound at the Cape, and sloping abruptly down to the sea, with brown cliffs on the south-west side.

DIRECTIONS FOR SAILING UP QUEEN CHARLOTTE'S SOUND.

VESSELS running up Cook's Straits, and bound to Cloudy Bay, with a northerly wind, would save time and trouble by running up Queen Charlotte's Sound, and through Tory Channel. The following directions will take any vessel up to Point Heaphy in safety. When about mid-channel between Motuara and Long Island, a S.S.W. course will take you up in mid-channel to Point Heaphy. Soundings from Motuara Island gradually deepen from seven and eight to thirty and thirty-five fathoms mid-channel; the shores on both sides of the Sound are bold, and may be approached with safety to one cable distance. In case of night coming on, good anchorage can be found in the coves on either side of the Sound; but I should recommend the western shore, on account of the prevailing westerly and south-westerly winds. The western entrance to the Tory Channel is three-quarters of a mile wide, and is formed by Point Dieffenbach on the southern side, and Point Heaphy on the north. Point Dieffenbach is very remarkable, being a flat cliffy point about forty feet high, the ridge of which runs up to a high peak. Point Heaphy can easily be distinguished, referring to the accompanying views. It is the first projecting point to the west, on the eastern shore, after passing Tui Kaiopi Island, and about two miles distant from the southern part of that island. Care should be taken, in running for this channel, not to take the western arm of the Sound which runs up to W.S.W. for fourteen miles, and has more the appearance of a channel than the entrance to the Tory Channel, and may be known by Round Island, which lies on the western shore about four miles above Point Dieffenbach.

The tides in the Channel run stronger than on any other part of the coast; spring tides between the heads run five knots on the ebb and four on the flood; it flows five hours and ebbs seven.

The soundings in the middle of the Channel are deep, from thirty to thirty-five fathoms; but in passing through

SAILING DIRECTIONS – QUEEN CHARLOTTE'S SOUND.

the Channel, and the tide or wind failing, there is good anchorage in any of the bays, in a line with the points, from seven to ten fathoms. Some of the bays shoal suddenly, inside of a line with the points, particularly about Henry Island on the south shore.

Oyster Harbour on the south shore is an excellent place for a vessel to refit in; and, in case of necessity, may heave down to the rocks at the head of the bay; there being six fathoms close to the rocks. The harbour is land-locked, and perfectly sheltered from all winds. There is a run of fresh water through the sandy beach at the head of the bay.

The principal English settlement on the north side of the Channel is in Barrett's Bay, which is formed by a ledge of white ragged rocks running into the Channel. The best anchorage in this bay is about one cable distant from the outer white rock, in a line with the opposite point of the bay, in seven or eight fathoms. Moor with an open hawser to the S.E.

The eastern entrance to the Tory Channel is easily distinguished by Wellington Head, which is the highest land from Cape Koemaroo, and may be known by its terminating in a remarkable white cliff, which can be seen when off the Brothers; when abreast of Wellington Head the Tory Channel opens to your view. There is a sunken rock lying off the North Head, about one-quarter cable's distance, and two small rocks off the South Head, about five feet out of the water; there is also a small watch rock close to the south shore, a little inside of the heads, and a rock nearly awash surrounded by kelp, about half a cable off the West Point of Hokokurry Bay; but by referring to the plan and accompanying views, a stranger can enter this Channel on the flood tide with safety. There is a tide-rip off each head, which at a short distance may be taken for breakers.

PORT NICHOLSON.

Port Nicholson lies in the depth of a bay formed by Baring Head on the east side, and Sinclair Head on the west. The land running down to Baring Head is level, terminating in a perpendicular cliff, with a small reef out of water running off it. From Baring Head to Pencarrow Head forming the east head of the port, lies Fitzroy Bay. There are several small reefs out of water running a short distance from the beach round this bay.

Sinclair Head is the termination of a ridge of hills, which ends in a steep bluff, off which lies a long reef of black rocks, mostly out of water, with sharp peaks about twenty feet high, and may be seen several miles off. From this reef to Barrett's Reef, off Point Dorset, are several reefs of black peaked rocks running off the coast; by passing them at the distance of a mile all dangers will be cleared.

The entrance to the port is formed by Pencarrow Head, on the east side (off which lies a reef about one cable distance, out of water), and Palmer Head on the west. Barrett Reef, which is mostly out of water, lies nearly midway between the heads; it is bold close to, ten fathoms a boat's length off the reef.

Chaffers Passage is between Palmer Head and Barrett's Reef. The passage is clear of rocks with deep water, but not so broad as the Eastern Channel, which is the best for a person not acquainted with the port, and the set of the tide more regular. Spring tides run in the narrows about two knots. There are several small reefs stretching off the east shore, in the entrance, mostly out of water; by keeping about one cable distant off the points, the wash rocks lying off them will be cleared.

The soundings are regular in the narrows, ten and eleven fathoms close to the rocks, and eight fathoms one cable off the east shore; the deepest water is near the reef in both channels.

There is a small reef, about half a cable, running off the Pinnacle Rock, which is connected to Point Waddell by a reef, and should not be approached too close. After

SAILING DIRECTIONS – PORT NICHOLSON.

passing the Pinnacle Rock, the shores are bold on each side; the small rocks lying off the points showing; the deepest water is on the west shore. Between Ward's Island and the main is a narrow channel of three fathoms for small vessels. After passing Ward's Island the soundings are regular, ten, eleven, and twelve fathoms. Somes' Island is steep close to, on each side. There is good anchorage at the head of the port, in eight fathoms, muddy bottom, about half way between Somes' Island and the beach, with the summit of Somes' Island bearing south. The heads of the port will then be shut in, and you are well protected from southerly and north-westerly gales.

Lambton Harbour runs up S.W. by W., four miles and a quarter from Somes' Island; the shores on both sides are bold up to Bellsize Point, off which runs a small sandspit about one cable distant; from this point to the head of the harbour there is from ten to three fathoms, muddy bottom. This harbour is well protected from all winds; wood and water can easily be procured, and it is an excellent harbour for shipping.

Evans' Bay runs in south, two miles and a quarter from off Point Halswell; the shores are bold on each side of the bay, with ten and eleven fathoms in the middle. Burnham Water is east, nearly a quarter of a mile from the head of the bay; it abounds in eels and wild ducks. There is a good sandy beach round the head of the bay for hauling the seine; the natives consider it the best place for fishing.

The River Hutt lies at the east end of the beach at the north head of the port; its main stream runs in a winding direction through the valley to the north. There are several small streams running into it near its mouth; if they were all turned into the main stream from their source, it would make a good navigable river for small craft or steamers. There is a bar at its mouth which nearly dries at low water, and the water is fresh a little inside the beach. The source of this river has not been explored yet, but it is supposed to take its rise in the snowy mountains, about forty miles to the north. On its

SAILING DIRECTIONS – PREVAILING WINDS.

banks is a fine forest of pine trees, where masts and spars could easily be procured.

The rivulet at the west end of the beach is small, and winds into a valley behind the first range of hills: it is a good place for watering, and wood is in great abundance.

The different bays abound in fish of many sorts, particularly the flat fish, which are very large, and a haul with the seine would supply a ship's company for the day.

This port which hitherto has been little known, and generally represented as a bar harbour, certainly ranks among one of the finest in the world; its entrance is easy, the dangers all showing, and plenty of room to work in, with eleven fathoms in the narrowest part, and is capacious enough to contain numerous fleets. The natives are a mild easy race, and but few, who raise potatoes and pigs for barter. This and other advantages that Port Nicholson offers, point it out as the most desirable port in New Zealand for vessels to touch at.

The prevailing winds in Cook's Straits are N.W., nine months out of the twelve. In the winter months, June, July, and August, S.E. and southerly winds prevail; generally blowing in heavy gales, and shifting round suddenly to the opposite point. The S.E. gales generally cause a heavy sea, and on the ebb tide, long tide-rips, which have all the appearance of breakers; and which cause, I think, has given rise to the erroneous opinion generally entertained of the supposed dangers of Cook's Straits.

On the west coast of Tavoi Poenamo the prevailing winds are S.W. all the year round, and during the summer months, December, January, February, and March, it blows with the greatest violence, and has been known to last for two months.

On the eastern coast as far as Cape Campbell, the N.W. and S.E. winds prevail all the year round.

On the west side of Eainomaui, the prevailing winds are N.E. in the summer, and in the winter S.E. and N. W., but are liable to change to W. and south-westerly gales, which in general do not last longer than twenty-

THE NATURALIST'S REPORT.

four hours. A S.E. gale in general lasts four or five days. About Mount Egmont, on the shore there is a regular land and sea breeze during summer, in the morning from the S.W., fresh during the day, and falling calm at night. Off the East Cape and along the coast to the North Cape, in the summer months the prevailing winds are north-easterly, but in the winter months strong westerly gales generally prevail.

No. V.

No. V.

First Report to the New Zealand Company, on the Physical Condition and Natural History of Queen-Charlotte's Sound, Cloudy Bay, Tory Channel, Port Nicholson, and the surrounding Country; by ERNST DIEFFENBACH, M.D., the Company's Naturalist.

WE came in sight of the Southern Island on the 16th of August, after a most successful voyage of ninety-six days from Plymouth Harbour, and thirty-eight days from the longitude of the Cape of Good Hope. From this longitude to New Zealand, we sailed between the latitudes 37 deg. and 45 deg., being favoured by the prevalent winds from the S.W. and N.W., which blow almost continually, rendering a voyage to New Zealand at once secure and quick.

On the 9th of July we were in latitude 37 deg. 25' S. and longitude 16 deg. 43' E. The weather was fine, and a S.W. wind filled our sails and carried us rapidly forward. I found the temperature of the air to be 58 deg. Fahrenheit, which is the mean of four daily observations. The temperature of the sea was 61 deg. 12', likewise the mean of four observations.

On the 11th we were in latitude 38 deg. 49' S. and in longitude 24 deg. 30' E. At noon, I made my observations upon the temperature of the water, and found it had declined from 69 deg. in the morning to 52 deg. 50', and to 50 deg. at four o'clock in the afternoon. It rose again on the following day to 69 deg., when we were in latitude 39 deg. 33' S. and

longitude 38 deg. 3' E. This extraordinary change of temperature seems to have been produced by the presence of shoal water, although there is no indication of such in the charts, I was confirmed in this opinion by the light-green colour of the sea, and a particular appearance of its surface. The sounding, however, gave no bottom at seventy fathoms; and it must be left to future observations to determine whether the thermometer really indicated a shoal, or whether other causes, for instance icebergs or currents, can produce such an extraordinary change.

From this time our voyage became uniform to the highest degree. As far as the eye could reach, nothing was visible but a dreary and desolate sea. An almost continual wind from the S.W. was only interrupted by gales and squalls, ceasing as quickly as they came, and which, though never dangerous, caused the vessel to roll, and required the attention of our commander. The temperature of the air fell sometimes to 47 deg., and the cold became very sensible. The monotony of our life was in some degree enlivened by a number of sea-birds, who were our faithful companions. They never left us, and even appeared in the greatest numbers when the sea rose highest, falling eagerly on everything that was cast out of the ship. We often admired the dexterity and elegance of their flight; never touching the water with their wings, they fly upwards with the ascending, downwards with the descending wave. The power of their wings, indeed, must be enormous, as they appear where for hundreds of miles no land is indicated on our charts. Our most constant companion was the Cape pigeon, a very neat kind of petrel (Procellaria capensis.) This bird is white and black spotted above, white below, with a black head, and of the size of a large pigeon. Occasionally we noticed some of a silver-gray colour, either a different species, or perhaps differing only in age.

Other kinds of petrels were visible besides the Cape pigeon. The Cape hen, a shy bird and of a black colour, was frequently seen; Mother Carey's chicken (Procellaria pelagica) sometimes; another small silver-gray petrel, called the icebird, appeared in great flocks.

Albatrosses were numerous, and, driven by hunger Ioften came close to the ship. I observed two varieties of the common species; one generally of a light-brown colour more or less mixed with white, another often perfectly white with black wings. These latter have on each side the throat a rose-coloured spot, and appear to be the oldest birds. We caught them (Diomedea exulans) in great numbers with hook and line, and our sailors ate their flesh, which is somewhat fishy.

Another species of albatross is perfectly smoke-coloured, somewhat smaller than the first, but flies with the same dexterity. It seems to be Diomedea fuliginosa. It never took the bait, and kept always in some distance from the ship.

The clumsily-made bird called molemawk appears to me to be likewise an albatross; its plumage is white with black wings; it settled in great numbers about the bait, but never took it.

On the 22nd of July we were in latitude 41 deg. 38' S. and longitude 71 deg. 2' E. About this time we had almost continual squalls, with rain and hail. The temperature of the air was often as low as 36 deg. Fahrenheit during the hail showers, but generally between 40 deg. and 50 deg. Fahrenheit. The barometer and the sympiesometer always indicatedthese sudden squalls, as will appear from the annexed series of observations. The variations of these instruments, however, were so remarkable and so sudden, especially in the first half of the month of August, that they cannot always be depended upon, as fall and rise followed each other too rapidly to be of any use to the navigator. These variations seemed to be connected with a continual formation of clouds charged with rain or hail, never with snow, which suddenly appeared at the horizon, and, followed by winds, scudded over the ship and disappeared. The observations on the sympiesometer on the 12th, 13th, and 14th of August, when we were between Van Diemen's Land and New Zealand, deserve perhaps some attention respecting their variations.

Before beginning my observations on New Zealand, I beg leave to give here an extract from my meteorological

journal. All the instruments used have been compared together, and corrected accordingly. An accident that befell the barometer prevented me from continuing my observations with it, and I was confined to the sympiesometer, which I found to be a very sensible instrument, admitting of accurate observations even in stormy weather, whereas minute observations with the barometer can only be made in calms, and when the ship is steady; and even in this case it becomes necessary to take the mean of a difference of several hundredths of an inch, to which extent it is always in movement. The observations were made four times daily. The observations of latitude and longitude are from the ship's log, which I likewise used for the observations on wind and weather.

EXTRACT FROM METEOROLOGICAL JOURNAL.

EXTRACT FROM METEOROLOGICAL JOURNAL.

EXTRACT FROM METEOROLOGICAL JOURNAL.

EXTRACT FROM METEOROLOGICAL JOURNAL.

EXTRACT FROM METEOROLOGICAL JOURNAL.

EXTRACT FROM METEOROLOGICAL JOURNAL.

THE NATURALIST'S REPORT.

On the 16th of August, at twelve o'clock, we saw mountainous land, the land of our destiny, New Zealand, then about forty miles distant. These mountains were in the neighbourhood of Cape Farewell, forming to the south a prolonged chain, the summits of which were visible above the clouds, which, after a few hours, enveloped them entirely.

On the morning of the 17th we were on deck at day-break, in the expectation of seeing a larger extent of land. We were not deceived. The mountains were pyramidal or conical; those on the Northern Island stretching from S.E. by S. to S.S.W. on the Southern Island, following a S.E. direction. Behind the latter rose a still higher chain, whilst through its opening, still further in the interior, towered snow-clad summits, reddening in the rising sun. I afterwards learned that these snowy mountains are to the S.E. of Cloudy Bay, from which place they are distinctly visible, and are named Sapaweinu. Though dissimilar in outline, they recalled to my memory the mountains of Switzerland. To our right lay Stephen's Island, an irregular rocky place, rising abruptly from the sea, and covered with thick brushwood. Between this island and the following, or D'Urville's Isle, some rocky needles reached out of the water, seven in number.

We saw Capiti or Entry Island, surrounded by a heavy atmosphere. The mountains of the Northern Island also displayed lofty cones covered with snow; among them an active volcano was pointed out to us by one of our New Zealanders.

As we drew nearer, we saw D'Urville's Island and the hills more distinctly. These hills are covered to the very summit with trees and brushwood. They are very steep, running down to the very border of the sea; and a yellow barren rock is occasionally denudated, with strata dipping at an acute angle, and very distinct at a promontory called Point Jackson.

At two o'clock in the afternoon we entered Queen Charlotte's Sound. No open spot of land was to be seen. The abrupt mountains, clothed with primeval forests, rising at once from the shore form only diminutive bays. Point

NATURALIST'S REPORT – GEOLOGY.

Jackson, where a pah was visible, was on our right. In the background of the bay we saw the island Motuara, and on our left, a long narrow island called Long Island, consisting of a sharp ridge of hills, the sides of which steeply descend into the sea, disclosing the same stratified yellow rocks already alluded to. Here again the strata are highly inclined, and sometimes even perpendicular. On this island are several slips, occasioned by the action of heavy rains upon the steep sides of the hills.

We steered between Long Island and Motuara, the route given by Captain Cook. As we entered Ship Cove, we descried a canoe coming from a neighbouring bay, denominated Cannibal's Cove in Cook's chart, but called by the natives Anaho. It contained eight men clothed in coarse mats. They brought some fish, behaved modestly, and left us satisfied in the evening, with a promise to come again in the following morning. At seven o'clock we anchored in Ship Cove, hoisted the New Zealand flag, and saluted it with eight guns.

We remained in Ship Cove until the 31st of August. It opens as a semicircle towards Queen Charlotte Sound, and is formed by two branches from the main chain, of which one bears to N.E. by N. half N., the other to S.E. by E.

The island Alapawa consists of a chain, which sends a great many branches towards the sea.

I may here observe that the following remarks apply to all the parts of New Zealand visited by me during the present expedition. The rock formation of the hills in Ship Cove, Tory Channel, Queen Charlotte Sound, Cloudy Bay, and Port Nicholson, is either a stratified yellow clayslate, or an unstratified graywacke of the same colour. This rock is one of the most barren for the researches of the geologist. Sometimes it graduates into a dark-coloured slate, attaining to the lamination of roofing slate, and is occasionally permeated by veins of kiescluchiefes, or siliceous slate. In Port Nicholson it is a more hard and unstratified wacke, often of a black colour. No petrifactions could be discovered in it. This clayslate is easily converted by the influence of the atmosphere into clay of various colours, fit for brickmaking; the stone

NATURALIST'S REPORT – CLIMATE.

itself is unfit for architectural purposes. I have not found any useful minerals in it. Some coal was brought to us by a chief of the Nyatiawa tribe, Nyarewa, who lives in Anaho, and who obtained it from a place called Manganui,on the western coast of the Southern Island, probably in the neighbourhood of Cape Farewell, where coal has been picked up by Europeans, whom I met at Terrawaita. According to their description, it crops out in strata near the sea-shore. The coal is of good quality, and burned almost without residuum.

Everywhere along Queen Charlotte Sound and Tory Channel, branches running from the main chain of mountains into the sea inclose small bays, into which almost uniformly little streamlets of excellent water discharge themselves. By their action, combined with that of the sea, small beaches are formed, few rarely exceeding a square mile in area of fertile soil, more or less mixed with sand or shingle. On these beaches, which are the only accessible portions of the shore, the native huts are commonly located, for the convenience of fishing; their cultivation, however, is for the most part on the sides and in the ravines of the hills, in spots cleared by burning the wood, by which they are universally clothed.

The climate seems to be extremely suitable to English constitutions. The mean of my observations on the thermometer give the temperature in Ship Cove for the latter half of the month of August, 49 deg. 74' Fahrenheit. The thermometer never fell below 42 deg. 50' during the daytime, nor rose above 53 deg. 50' at noon in the shadow, and this in a month corresponding to our February. During that time we had fine weather with the exception of three rainy days. It generally blew fresh from the S.E. or N.E.; the former wind always producing a fall in the temperature, as will be seen from the annexed extract from my meteorological journal.

The thermometer during winter seems rarely to fall much lower than the degree just mentioned, although during the night the summits of the hills, which are above 1200 feet above the level of the sea, were sometimes covered with snow in the morning. It freezes rarely, but

NATURALIST'S REPORT – VEGETATION.

I afterwards ascertained in Terrawaiti that the water had lately frozen several times about half an inch thick. But settlers who had resided ten years and longer on this coast say this winter is a remarkably cold one.

From the mountainous character of the country it may be inferred that rains are frequent; in fact, droughts, as in New South Wales, are unknown. The thick woods that everywhere clothe the hills, preserve a great degree of humidity, nourish the streamlets, and present a luxuriant vegetation, possessing many attractions for the observer of nature, and eminently useful for the purposes of men, by the timber they yield. All who have visited New Zealand admit that it possesses a characteristic vegetation, partaking of tropical forms. I have seen tree-ferns more than forty feet high, their umbrella-like crowns overhanging the underwood, and constituting a remarkable feature in the landscape. Besides this criterion of a moderate climate, the trees, even at this wintry season, were arrayed in the freshest green, although without new leaf-buds. Only a few of the indigenous plants were in blossom. With the exception of four or five phanerogamous plants, I found the ferns only covered with their organs of fructification, and collected ten species with seed-capsules. But though few plants were in flower, I collected a number of seeds from trees and shrubs.

As all the annual plants had disappeared, I can only give a general account of the perennial ones, and principally of the trees and brushwood.

Everywhere in Queen Charlotte Sound the observer finds, close to the water's edge, a number of plants of the laurel kind, some myrtles, a fuchsia, several euphorbiaceae, one plant, apparently a dulcamara, with yellow fleshy seed-capsules, and called Borra Borra, a ligustrum intermixed with high New Zealand flax, rushes, and a great number of ferns. The loose rocks of the shore, between low and high water-mark, are covered with different kinds of fucus and ulvus. As he ascends the hills the trees increase in height, and are often from five to six feet in diameter. The conifers, which grow higher up, are few in number; I observed two podocarpi, called Miro and Totarra by the

natives, a dacrydium, called Mai, which is very common about Queen Charlotte Sound, Tory Channel, and Port Nicholson. These three trees grow straight and high, and are beautiful timber. A tree, called Tawai, abounds, and is very much used by the natives for building their canoes. With these is associated the man, a tall tree, with a fruitlike that of our whitethorn; the natives prepare from its bark a beautiful and durable black dye, with which they colour parts of their mats. A great number of birds feed upon its berries. Its timber is excellent. The trees in the lower region of the hills are almost impenetrably interwoven by lianes, which makes the ascent very difficult. They are of different species, and a number of birds feed upon their fruits. Amongst them is the pitokos, from the seeds of which the natives prepare an oil for anointing their hair and bodies. It seems to be a pure fat oil, like that of the beech-mast, and, as the shrub from which it comes is superabundant, and the seeds are easily procured, it must one day furnish an article of commerce. Still higher up the hills, and where the barrenness of the soil scarcely permits any other vegetation, appears the kaikatoa, also called gadoa, or manuko, a philadelphus, with a very hard and brown wood, of which the natives make the paddles of their canoes, and whose leaves are used by natives and Europeans as a very agreeable balsamic tea. This tree grows on the most barren places, but often only as a low shrub, and seems to require an open situation, where it is there intermixed with the fern, the root of which is esculent, euphorbiaceae, myrtles, and the phormium tenax, which grows indifferently on open places, in swamps, and between the rocks at the sea shore. The country about Queen Charlotte Sound is, however, not a flax country, although it is found even here in sufficient abundance for the use of the natives.

The lianes rarely ascend more than 800 feet above the level of the sea, when they disappear, and the forest becomes open, and often covers the very tops of the hills, which, where there are no trees, and the rock barren, are clothed with ferns of various species, some of them arborescent.

NATURALIST'S REPORT – SHELLFISH.

On the decayed trees, which in these immemorial woods everywhere obstructed my path, I collected a number of lichens and mosses, but was surprised at finding so few fungi, of which a large one serves, if well dried, as good tinder.

I ascended the two highest hills at the back of Ship Cove, bearing respectively to N.W. and S.W. The latter is an example of a naked hill, the former of one covered with wood to the top. The first was measured trigonometrically, and its height was found to be about 1000 feet. The latter was measured by me, by means of the temperature of boiling water, which brought out an elevation of 1544 feet high.

Notwithstanding that the whole of Queen Charlotte Sound is not suited for an extensive settlement, it would richly repay the industry of thousands, who could rear pigs in any number, and with little trouble, plant potatoes, for which the soil is particularly adapted, and furnish splendid timber in large quantities. We had always large supplies of potatoes, fresh dug up from the ground, where the natives leave them during the winter, affording another proof of the mildness of the climate.

The island of Motuara is of similar character, both in its geological composition and in its productions. The natives have cleared much land there, and other large patches are covered with a species of ligustrum. About half a dozen natives are on the island, and a great number of pigs are running wild, but they have their proprietors in the neighbouring native settlements.

I will now communicate what I have ascertained about the animal creation of the places visited by us. On the rocks of the sea shore are some conchylia, although they are neither distinguished by great variety, nor by size and beauty. Those of them that are eatable are a species resembling our common cockle, called Pipi by the natives, a mussel, a patella, and a halyotis. Oysters are found in Oyster Bay, in Tory Channel. Besides, there is a pinna, and a small number of univalves.

Landshells I found none; I think they will make their appearance a little later in the year.

NATURALIST'S REPORT – FISHES.

One holothuria, or sea-slug, a large ascidia, two kinds of actinia, or sea anemone, some starfishes, (Ophiura and Asterias,) I found in Ship Cove, a pretty orange-coloured asterias in Teawaiti. Under the rocks, at the shore, live small crabs: lobsters exist likewise, but I saw only one, different from ours, in Cloudy Bay.

Of insects I got few, which may be ascribed to the season. Two or three coleopterae, a grasshopper, and agryllus was all I obtained. I saw only two or three butterflies, neither distinguished by size nor beauty. A small dipterous insect, called the sandfly by the sailors, lives in the sand at the shore, and comes into the houses; its bite is very troublesome.

Of fishes of different kinds there is great abundance; flat fish, soles, skates, the curious Achirus marmoratus, likewise a flatfish with a spotted skin; eels, the conger eel, and another, which, when caught, emits a great quantity of slime, some other small cartilaginous fishes, resembling the shark, (gurnards,) herrings, mackerels, a curious cartilaginous fish related to Chimaera callorrhynchus, with a long appendage from its upper lip, and of a fine silvery colour, eatable, but not of particular taste, and several kinds of syngnathi, which are presented to the stranger everywhere as a curiosity, are the most common fishes. One is always sure to get as many for consumption as he wants, either with the seine, or with hook and line.

New Zealand is distinguished from other islands of the South Sea by its small number of reptiles.

I could only obtain a small lizard, which lives in Teawaiti and Port Nicholson, in open places under the fern. It is of the size of our common brown lizard, with which it corresponds in its colour. The natives call it Moko Moko.

The birds that enliven the rocky shores of New Zealand and the primitive forests on its hills surprise the traveller most agreeably by their beautiful and various melody. The voices of many winged choristers always fill the air. Sounds pure and full, like those of a glass harmonica, are heard from morning to night, but especially at break of day.

NATURALIST'S REPORT – BIRDS.

But little disturbed, the birds are so tame that the hand is deterred from killing, where so much confidence appears. Few animals seem originally to fear man; most of them have learned it by persecution. The New Zealander has very few and simple means for bringing them into his power. He imitates their voice, either concealed by shrubs, or in a rude hut made of fern, from whence a rod leads to a neighbouring tree. The bird follows the call, descends upon the rod, draws nearer and nearer, and is caught by the hand. He is, however, in the habit of catching but few birds either for his food, as pigeons or parrots, or for ornament, as the Uia, with whose tail feathers he ornaments himself, or the Tui, which he keeps in cages. Most of the birds which I saw are peculiar to this country; some are very scarce and local. Thus extinction of some species may be foreseen whenever the country is settled by Europeans. I will now shortly describe those species which I obtained during our short stay at Queen Charlotte Sound, Tory Channel, and Port Nicholson.

The birds of New Zealand are not distinguished by beauty of plumage; they are generally sombre in colour, sometimes relieved by snowy white. Others obtain an additional ornament in the shape of fleshy yellow flaps at the angles of the mouth.

Beginning with the land-birds, which I found in the sea-side forest, and more abundant in the middle region, amongst the birds of the parrot kind, I noticed a large gray parrot and a small green parroquet. The former, called by the natives, after its cry, "Kaka," measures from the tip of the beak to the end of the tail, nineteen inches. The predominant colour is gray-brown. The naked skin of the throat is yellow, and at the side of the neck there are a few yellow feathers; on the belly, under the wings, and in the axilla, the gray-brown colour is mixed with crimson. The male is distinguished from the female by a greater extent of crimson plumage, and is the smaller of the two. The Kaka lives upon the fruit of the man tree and other seeds, is kept by the natives, and learns easily to talk. Their flesh is not tough, but tender and

well flavoured. They are very tame in their native woods, and easily approached when sitting on the branches, or frolicking in the foliage of trees. As soon as one of their number is killed or wounded, the others generally assemble about him, a habit which renders them easy of capture.

The parroquet, called Kakariki, measures eleven inches. Of all the birds of New Zealand which I have seen, these pretty creatures are decorated with the brightest colours. The principal colour is verdigris green, changing into emerald, the crested forehead crimson. In the younger birds the feathers at the root of the beak are gold-yellow. On the neck is a golden spot, at the root of the tail a crimson one. The quill feathers are azure blue, graduating into different shades of green. The bird itself is of slender make, and its tail arrow-shaped. Like the Kaka, it lives upon berries and seeds, especially on the yellow fruits of a solanea, called Borra Borra.

A kingfisher, called Kotari or Kotaritari, is found wherever a streamlet discharges itself into the sea. He is as shy as his European relation, from which he is not very distinguishable.

At Port Nicholson I found the bird called Uia by the natives, which is in great request by them on account of the twelve or fourteen feathers of its tail. It is rare, and said to be found only at that place, and the southern coast of the Southern island. The bird is of the size of a magpie, with jet black very fine silky plumage, and along expansible tail, consisting of black feathers with white ends. Male and female are discriminated in a remarkable manner by the form of the beak, the which in the male is short, straight, strong, about two inches long, and in the female slender, more than three inches long, with the upper and lower maxilla bent in nearly a semicircle downwards, overreaching each other. The beaks of both are of a white colour. Their feet are strong and four-toed, the fourth toe being the largest and standing backwards, and all provided with strong claws. Two remarkable gold-coloured flaps, of the size of a fifteen-pence-piece and larger, originate from the upper and lower maxilla. I found in their muscular stomach the seeds of a liand, called Pitokoi,

from which the natives make their hair oil, a number of smaller seeds, and some coleopterous insects. But the form of the beak in the female seems better adapted for getting insects out of rotten trees; and in the two females which I dissected, I found almost only insects, whilst in the male there were more seeds. The natives catch them alive by imitating their shriek voice, the sound of which is somewhat expressed in their native name. High up the hills, where the wood is thickest, the native whistles; suddenly some of them appear, jumping in quick succession from branch to branch; they come so near to the fowler that he catches them with his hand. In the village of Port Nicholson one always finds some skins in the houses of the natives, but without feet, and the natives from other places obtain them here.

The bird called Kokako, and wattle-bird by the Europeans, from its two gold-coloured and indigo maxillary flaps, I found only at Ship Cove, in the middle region of the hills and upon trees. He seems to be a kind of gracula, of the size of the jay, has a short strong black beak, with a slightly curved upper maxilla, and measures sixteen inches from the tip of the beak to the end of the tail. Its feet are black, like those of the former. Its plumage is soft, silk-like, and glossy black; it has a penetrating, not disagreeable voice, feeds upon seeds, and lives in pairs upon the trees.

Amongst the thrushes I must name first the Tierawakki, likewise with two yellow appendages at the angles of its mouth, of the form and dimension of a cucumber seed. This bird is of the size of a blackbird, with beak and feet similar to these parts in the latter. Its plumage is a glossy black, the cover-feathers of the wings and its back are of a fine red-brown. I saw a variety, or perhaps another species, with plumage of variable shades of sepia. This bird feeds upon berries, and is a very agreeable songster. I found it most frequently at the skirts of the forest in Wangarnui Atera, but also in Ship Cove.

One specimen of another thrush, resembling in shape and colour our common fieldfare, I got at Ship Cove.

The most common bird in New Zealand, and at the

same time one of the prettiest and most agreeable, is the Tui, so called from the most familiar of its various and delightful tunes. Its principal colour is black, with green metallic hues; on the breast it has a number of fine white feathers, and from each side of its throat hangs a cluster of white curled feathers. This bird, of the size of a thrush, is seen everywhere in the forests, in the huts of the Indians, and in the houses of the settlers, who keep him in cages. He has a soft fluting voice, which re-echoes in the forest from the morning to the evening. His imitative faculty is remarkable. I heard one that barked like a dog, another that crowed like a cock, and a third that talked long phrases. In winter they are frequently found about a species of laurus, of the black berries of which they are very fond; they then are very fat, and their flesh, from the aroma of these berries and other lauraceae, delicious. In captivity they are fed with potatoes and biscuits, but do not long survive the loss of their freedom.

Of the birds of the pigeon kind there is a great wood-pigeon, which we could everywhere obtain in numbers for the table. It is one of the largest of its beautiful and peaceable race, and, at the same time, one of the handsomest. It measures, from the end of the beak to the end of the tail, twenty-one inches. Its back, throat, and upper part of the breast are reddish-gray, with a variety of metallic hues; the other part of its breast and belly is milk-white. The covering feathers of the wings are grayish, with metallic hues, the tail and the quill feathers gray-black, beak and feet red. This pigeon likes open places at the skirts of the forests, where it sits upon the lower branches of high trees. It feeds especially upon the fruits of the karewan, a liane, and other berries.

Amongst the singing birds a small flycatcher, of a silver-gray colour, with a neat fan-tail, is found in all places visited by us. It is very quick in its movements, flying from twig to twig.

A bird, corresponding to our red-breast, and called by the natives Pitoiti, is found wherever the trees stand thickest. It seeks its food, consisting of insects, in rotten wood. The prevailing colour is gray-black with a white

breast. It is very tame and confident, and possesses all the manners of our robin.

The little delicate bird, called Pilantgalangi, has a jet-black head and back; its forehead is yellow, and so is its belly. I have also seen the same bird quite black. Many congeners exist in the forest, of brown or gray colours.

A kind of sylvia, of delightful song, in abrupt full notes, dark green in colour, with a violet metallic hue, is frequent everywhere. The Popokatea has a yellow breast and belly, with a gray body; it is of the size and figure of the canary bird, and is gregarious in Queen Charlotte Sound. A sandlark, of the same colour as ours, abounds on the sandy beaches.

Amongst the birds of prey a small falcon soars over the naked ridges of the hills. It is of the size of the gray parrot, and of grayish-brown colour. I procured one specimen at Ship Cove. I often heard in the evenings at Cloudy Bay the cry of an owl, but never obtained one.

As we were mostly confined to the coasts, I had opportunities to observe aquatic birds of all kinds, both on the sea-shore and on the land, and at the outlets, and up the rivers. Of birds of their kind peculiar to New Zealand, there are only a few.

I name first a kind of plover, (charadrius) called Tuturunta, by the natives. It is about eight inches long; forehead, throat, and neck of the male black; vertex spotted with brown and gray; under the eyes a white stripe; the back, wings, and tail are brown; the beak, feet, and eyelids orange; the end of the beak black. In the female the colours are less distinct. The male has a white collar; that of the female is spotted brown. I found these birds at the strand in Port Nicholson, where they feed upon marine insects and worms.

Here, also, and everywhere on the strand in Tory Channel, an oyster-catcher (Haematopus,) called by the natives Toria, is frequent. It is eighteen inches long, of the size of a small duck. Its colour is jet-black; beak and eyelids orange; the feet are rose-coloured. Old birds have more or less white on breast and belly. They congregate in the morning and evening, walking between the pebbles

along the beach, where they pick up little crabs and limpets, by means of their long compressed beak.

In Port Nicholson I often found a species of himantopus, wading with long stilted legs in the water. It is somewhat above a foot long, with a thin black beak and red legs; it is always seen in pairs. At the estuary of the river of Port Nicholson a species of the recurvirostra, of the size of a snipe, with a long flexible beak, is found in large flocks; its colour is a grayish-brown.

On all the shores voracious sea birds abound. There are several gulls; a very neat one, with black or red feet and beak, the plumage above of a silver-gray, below of a white colour. In the neighbourhood of the whaling establishments they fill the air in flocks when a whale is cut up, eagerly throwing themselves into the water after pieces of blubber.

Albatrosses are sometimes seen. The feathers were formerly in great request by the natives; now they are little looked after.

Beautiful ducks are numerous on the rivers and their estuaries. Especially remarkable is the splendid Paradise duck, called Putangitangi by the natives, which we saw at the Pelorus River and at Port Nicholson. This duck lives in pairs, or in society with other ducks, sitting erect, and attentive to the least noise. The drake is almost as large as a goose; its head is black, with a green metallic hue on vertex and neck. On the back this colour changes into a pearly grey; the covering feathers of the shoulders are of the same colour, but those of the wings of a snowy white. The breast is of the same pearly plumage, becoming brown spotted towards the belly. The feathers of the axilla are white; beak and feet black. The female is somewhat smaller; about thirty inches long; head and neck are white; the pearl-gray of her plumage is everywhere mixed with red-brown feathers; the upper covering feathers of the wings are white, as in the drake; the feathers of the tail, upon the shoulders, red-brown; the ast quill feathers of fine green metallic hues.

Another duck was brought from the Pelorus River. It is much smaller than the former, measuring only twenty-

three inches. It is of a bright gray plumage, the breast spotted with brown; the middle quill feathers marginated with black. Drake and duck are undistinguishable in plumage. I found at the river in Port Nicholson a third duck, smaller than our domestic duck. The female has a gray head and neck; the breast and back are brown and white spotted; on both sides of the tail is a white spot. The first quill feathers are black; the middle ones of metallic hues. The upper covering feathers of the shoulders are lead-coloured. The male is twenty-eight inches long, of a gray-brown colour; the feet, in both sexes, dirty yellow.

Besides the species of ducks just described, we observed everywhere a black duck.

The bird, called Shag by the sailors, Kawau by the natives, Halieus or Carbo by systematists, and by other people Cormorant, was very abundant. There are several species, distinguished from each other partly by their colours, partly by their manner of living. The species most frequent in Ship Cove is glossy black along the back, and snowy white below. The iris green, the eyelids Prussian blue, the face orange. They have a long neck, and are easily distinguished by a bone, loosely connected with the occiput. In some the blue of the eyelids was wanting: these were probably young birds. The beak is lead-coloured; the skin under the lower maxilla of a dirty red, the feet black. They are of the size of a small goose, but more slender. The most salient peculiarity of this species is, that although they are web-footed, they inhabit dead trees at the sea-shore. There they sit erect from the morning to evening. They are good divers and swimmers; swimming rapidly with only half of the back above the surface. Though preying exclusively upon small fishes, their flesh is not in the least fishy, but tastes like beef, and we had it often on our tables. They build upon trees, and lay two rough-looking eggs, as large as hen eggs.

Another species, apparently peculiar to New Zealand, is the crested cormorant, or king's shag, perhaps the Carbo naevia of Linnaeus. Its length from the

NATURALIST'S REPORT – DOMESTIC ANIMALS.

end of the beak to the tip of the tail is thirty-three inches; the wings, the lower part of the neck, and between the shoulders are of a sepia colour, dotted with black spots. The back and the legs have a green metallic hue, sprinkled with white dots; the tail consists of stiff black feathers. The upper part at the neck is black, the belly of a silvery gray. On the forehead, and extending along the neck, is a black crest; the feet and beak are yellowish. It inhabits the hollows of rocks, by which it is especially distinguished from the former.

Another, and probably different species of cormorant, larger than the two former, and of a glossy black throughout, was brought to me from the river in Port Nicholson.

In the hollows of the rocks at the sea shore a bird is found, called Jackass (Ipheniscas). It is of steel colour above, silver white below. The feathers are but little developed; the wings look like fins, and he uses them as such. The bird is of the size of a small duck, and has an owl-like physiognomy. The eggs, which they lay in an artless nest in the holes, are of the size and colour of hens' eggs, and male and female unite in the work of incubation. Its skin would give a beautiful fur.

For the future naturalist who visits these countries, I observe, that there exists, in small numbers, another species of Apterix, called Weka. One of the settlers had some tame in his possession, but they escaped into the woods. I never saw one myself, but am quite convinced their existence.

It is known that, in New Zealand, no original terrestrial mammalia have been found – a circumstance peculiar this country, and to other Polynesian islands.

Amongst the introduced animals is the dog, the faithful friend of man, but the New Zealander does not recompense his attachment with a sufficient quantity of food. The poor fellow is generally very lean, except at the whaling establishments.

The rat, in no way different from our domestic rat, and the cat, are found everywhere.

Amongst the aquatic mammalia, there were many seals on this coast about ten years ago. They have now

NATURALIST'S REPORT – WHALING.

disappeared, and only a straggling animal is occasionally seen in Cook's Straits. The sealers have followed them to the west coast of the Southern island, but even there they are scarce.

The most important animal, the chase of which has led to numerous establishments of natives and white people, is the black whale, Balaena mysticetus, so called from its black colour. Sometimes, indeed, if the opportunity be favourable, the finback whale, &c., or the humpback, are caught, but they are more cunning, wilder and quicker, and run out the longest line in a few seconds; they also give less oil than the black whale. The spermaceti whale rarely visits these coasts, but is found more to the northward. One of them was driven this year on shore in Teawaiti, half decomposed, and gave about two tuns of oil.

In Teawaiti are three whaling establishments. The proprietors have a number of boats in their service, manned with white people and natives. Sometimes the minor settlers have boats of their own, and sell their oil to the former. These give a certain sum either for the whale, or for every tun of oil, and derive large profits from the practice of paying their more poor associates with necessaries of life, and articles of luxury, such as tobacco, spirits, clothes, powder, &c., which the latter are obliged to take from them. In Cloudy Bay there are four establishments on the same footing. The great men on these beaches take care to let the little ones never get out of debt; they support them in bad seasons, provide and repair their boats, and keep them in constant dependency. From Teawaiti fifteen to twenty boats run out every morning; the boat-steerer is generally an European, a large portion of the crew are natives as skilful as Europeans.

Whaling began in Teawaiti and Cloudy Bay about ten years ago; then the whales often came into Tory Channel and the head of Cloudy Bay – now they seldom reach these places. The first whalers that arrived were very poor, and had not even casks to put the oil in; during several seasons they killed the whales for the

whalebone only. It may be imagined that the whales, when they had only a small number of persecutors, were abundant, but even now about 120 are annually caught in the establishments above-mentioned, including another in the Island of Mana. Each whale, on the average, yields about six imperial tuns of oil, in the aggregate 720 tuns of oil which is sold on the spot to small vessels from Sydney for 10l. per ton, making 7;200l. sterling. The same quantity sells in Sydney for 18,776l., 25l. per tun, in the London market, 45l. per tun, giving 32,400l. To this must be added the additional value of the whalebone, which sells at the place for 78l. per ton. A whale yields about 500 cwt. of bone, likewise taken at an average sum, which will give an additional sum of about 2000l.

But the number of whales here stated to be annually captured is evidently below the standard, as a number of ships, English, American, and French, cruize in Cloudy Bay for the purpose, during the season, when from twelve to fifteen ships often rendezvous at the same time. The French whalers seem to be very active, and a French man-of-war is generally cruizing about the coast for their protection. Even ships from Bremen come now to this part of the world; two had visited Cloudy Bay for the purpose of whaling during the present year. All these ships, which now with difficulty find provisions and wood in Cloudy Bay, will hereafter go to the very preferable station of Port Nicholson, where provisions may be raised and provided in any quantity, and beautiful timber abounds; besides which, it lies in the very tract of the American and Sydney vessels. All this will soon render Port Nicholson the centre of the whaling trade.

I will add, from my own observation, a few remarks upon the black whale. From May to the beginning of October the whales visit the bays to bring forth their young. They arrive from the N.W., and go to the S.E., following the tide along the shores in search of smooth water. They are often seen rubbing off against the beach and rocks the numerous barnacles and other parasitical insects with which they are covered. The mother, called

the cow, is always with her offspring, whilst the male, called the bull, is rarely seen, and seldom caught, – a circcumstance which must act very unfavourably on the number of these animals. The same result arises from the constant destruction of the calves, which are always secure prey to the whaler.

The months of May, June, and July are regarded as the best months in Cloudy Bay, the three other months for Tory Channel. The cause of this may be, that they go then as far up in the inlets of the sea as they can to bring forth their young. The boats leave Teawaiti before sunrise, and return at sunset; they cruize during the day at the entrance of the Tory Channel, stationing some men on the "look out," a long and high tongue of land, which forms the right shore of the channel, to espy from afar the powerful animal. The boats can quit Teawaiti only in fine weather, when no wind blows from the S.E. or N.E., their light structure unfitting them from contending with a turbulent sea. As the mother never leaves the calf, nursing it with the tenderest affection, the first aim of the whaler is to destroy it. If the animal be struck behind the fins, it is quickly killed, but not without dangerously beating about with the tail. As soon as the mother observes the threatening danger, she takes the calf on her back between the fins. It has been observed, that cows run away for miles with the dead calf; old cows are the most careful for their young, and never quit it whilst alive. The cows are generally accompanied by one calf, but sometimes by two; and the whalers say that, in this case, they have adopted an orphan calf. The size of a calf four months old is about twenty-four feet; one that was cut out from the cow last year measured fourteen feet. It is a custom amongst the whalers, that he who kills the calf, is also the proprietor of the mother, arising from the facility with which the latter is killed when the calf is dead. The boats of the different proprietors, in such a case, help each other.

After entering the Channel from Queen Charlotte Sound, there is a large bay to the right, called Stauwa, from whence the distance over the hill to Cloudy Bay is

NATURALIST'S REPORT – CLOUDY BAY.

small. I made this excursion when we were lying at Teawaiti. At the left of that bay is a remarkable conical mountain, visible in the back-ground, when one enters Cloudy Bay from the sea. Between this and the other hill to the right, over which the way to Cloudy Bay leads, the mountainous chain forms a deep saddle. This hill is of a dreary nakedness, only covered with the fern and the manuko. It consists of clay-slate, of which broken pieces are strewed over the hill. From its summit is a fine view over the whole of Queen Charlotte Sound. Motuara bears to N. by E.; to N.E. by E. the narrow Island of Alabawa is seen, on the other side of which the sea forms a deep inlet. This island is almost entirely a ridge of mountains.

We crossed the narrow tongue of land that separates Tory Channel from Cloudy Bay. On the top of the mountain you see into the latter bay, formed by chains of hills on both sides, which form in the bay itself several smaller ones with beaches. The bay opens to S. by W. into Cook's Straits, and in the back ground are the high snowy hills, called Tapawainu, stretching towards Cape Campbell. Descending, you come to the head of the bay called Obisch, where is a small native village.

The chain of hills which form the bay to the southeast, is barren in the extreme; only here and there a patch of brushwood or trees.

The chain to the S.W., at the other side of the bay, is more wooded, but the hills are steep, forming a number of small bays. This chain of hills turns to S.S.W. into the mainland, at Wairao, where much flat land is visible, and a river discharges itself into the sea. Wairao has no harbour, is open to all winds, and the bar of the river scarcely allows the access of a boat.

Cloudy Bay deserves its name. The bay is narrow, the hills high, the sun appears late and sets early. Its rays entering the valleys only for a short time, form clouds, which draw up from the hills in the morning, and descend upon, and envelop them in the evening. Cloudy Bay is ill calculated for a settlement, and the importance it possesses it derives from the whaling ships, that touch there for refreshments.

NATURALIST'S REPORT – PORT NICHOLSON.

The mean of the temperature in Teawaiti, from the 1st to the 19th of September, is 51.50. Three days are defective in these observations, when I was on excursions and could not get any assistance.

It is now my duty to say something about Port Nicholson. A few remarks will show how well this place is chosen for a settlement, which must soon be of the greatest importance. The hills that surround the flat land are lower than those in Queen Charlotte Sound, and are covered by a thinner forest, and with a deeper layer of vegetable mould. Large tracts of flat land, as will be better seen in the chart, are ready for ploughing. The soil there is a fine mould, mixed towards the sea-shore, more or less, with sand. The plains are not swamps, and where they are low, may be easily drained. The river having its source in the high mountains, will always have plenty of water, and the timber that grows on its shore can easily be floated down, when some obstructions by trees in its bed shall be cleared away. Its mouth is accessible at low water with boats, but will admit much larger ones when a channel is dug in the sand that now obstructs its mouth. On the sides of the hills, everywhere are sheltered places for the finer fruits and herbs, for vines, mulberry-trees, and olives, of which I particularly recommend the settlers to bring out sufficient quantities. The trees on the hills are for the most part such as have been mentioned, as occurring at Ship Cove, although there are more of the mai and miro; flax also may be procured in greater quantities, and I have seen it growing more than fourteen feet high. The rivulets in the different bays are of sufficient strength for mills, and form falls admirably adapted for that purpose. The climate seems warmer than in Ship Cove; sheltered from the cold S.E. wind; the almost circular form of the harbour collects the rays of the sun as it were into a focus. I found the temperature from the 21st of September to the 2nd of October to be 57.36, which gives a difference from Teawaiti not to be accounted for merely by the advance of the season, but must be ascribed to the influence above-mentioned, and to the more northerly situation.

NATURALIST'S REPORT – THE NATIVES.

I have now reached the latter, but in my opinion the most important, part of my report, and will proceed to narrate in unvarnished language, what I have observed of the inhabitants of the places we have visited. The unhappy lot prepared by Europeans for the inhabitants of many of their colonies, forms a mournful page in the history of the human species. It is the first duty of the light-minded colonist to occupy himself strenuously, above all other local considerations, with the destiny of the aborigines. To become acquainted with the real state of things in New Zealand is not an easy matter. This people, small in number, thinly scattered over a large surface, divided into many tribes, inheriting from their ancestors mutual envy and hatred, and now everywhere brought into contact with other nations, of superior activity and advanced civilization, are ready to receive the intruders with open arms, yet, though endowed with high capabilities, are still in all respects the untutored children of nature.

There are four tribes, with two of which we came in contact, that play an important part in the history of the regions we visited. The tribes we saw are the Cafia and the Nyatiawa, the others the Waikato and the Nyatinhatuigh. About twenty years ago, the Waikato tribe, one of the most powerful in New Zealand, and living in the N.W. ofthe Northern Island, made war upon the Cafia, living in a place of the same name, and on the same coast. The latter, pressed by the former, went southward, and led by a warlike ruler, Raupero, fell upon the Nyatiawa, who lived in Taranaki; they were conquered, or, as the weakest, voluntarily submitted to Raupero. Since that time, both tribes united in war upon the Nyatinhatuigh, who lived in the neighbourhood of Manganui Atera, or Port Nicholson. These, 500 in number, disgusted with the eternal feuds, engaged a whale ship to take them to the Chatham Islands, where they were conveyed in two trips, under their chief, Pomare. Here ends for us their history. Raupero went to Entry Island, to Mana, to the northern coast of the Southern Island, to D'Urville's Island, to Queen Charlotte Sound, to Tory Channel, and to

Cloudy Bay. Those places he either found uninhabited, or occupied by a tribe called the Naitaus, whom he conquered, and killed a great many of them. The remnant proceeded to the southward, and lives now in Otago, on its western coast, Banks Peninsula. The wanderer meets on the sides of the hills with a few deserted huts of these aborigines, over-grown by shrubs, with the stones used for beating the fern root, battle axes, and sometimes with human bones. Raupero settled in Capiti, or Entry Island, where now are his principal chiefs and followers. Others went to Rangatoto on D'Urville Island, to Mana, to the coast of the main and its neighbourhood, and to Cloudy Bay. He allowed the Nyatiawa to plant potatoes, and he gave them Port Nicholson, with several places along Queen Charlotte Sound and Tory Channel.

We first saw natives at Anaho, called Cannibal's Cove by Cook, where they have there a village, consisting of low huts, as often described; they are about eighty in number: they plant potatoes, cabbages, turnips, and rear many pigs, in Motuara and on the main, and are a quiet people. They obey a chief, Nyarewa. A few months before us, a missionary schooner from the Bay of Islands had touched at this place, and had taught some natives, who had began to read some hymns, or parts of the Bible in their native tongue, or rather they knew them by heart, and the knowledge they had thus rapidly acquired, though little, shows their capacity. They go to prayer in the morning and evening, observe the Sabbath-day, and asked us especially for books, writing paper, and pencils. They use for their meetings a large house, built by themselves under the instructions of an European, Mr. Elmsley, who having settled amongst them five years ago, had married the sister of the chief's wife. He lives now, occupied with whaling, in Teawaiti, and is a respectable man. Their principal missionary, an expression adopted by them, is Eoro, the chief's son, a youth of a fine countenance and untattooed. These people possess some blankets and old pieces of European clothing. With respect to their customs and habits, I will not repeat what can be read in many books. They always behaved very decently, they

are sober and honest, and we never had cause of complaint against them.

Proceeding hence along Queen Charlotte Sound we find no other settlement, until we come to the Island of Moioio, and the coast opposite to it, where there is again a pah of about forty natives, likewise of the Nyatiawa tribe. Less in communication with Europeans, they seem to be a little more in their indigenous state, but are equally honest in their dealings. They had brought us fish when we were at Ship Cove, and continued to supply us at Teawaiti. They are Nyatiawas, and have their native missionaries. From these places to Jackson's Bay, there are no inhabitants. At the latter place is a whaling establishment, and the proprietor has collected around about twenty natives, whom he employs in his business. They have built two large houses for the white men, and sleep at night crowded about the fire-place, being occupied during the day in whaling, or other business. The white men have all native women, and children by them. The observations I am going to make relative to the intercourse between the white man and the native in Teawaiti, which is only a rifle-shot from Jackson, hold also good for the latter.

In Teawaiti, a settlement for whaling purposes was made about ten years ago by Mr. Guard and Mr. Thorns. The beach was then grown over with brushwood. Other white people arrived, and with them, people from the Nyatiawa tribe, who had been driven away from the neighbourhood of Taranaki by the Waikato. At that time the original inhabitants of the country around Teawaiti had been conquered by Raupero. The land was formally given to the Europeans by Raupero and his brother, generally called Thomas Street. Thorns married a daughter of the latter, by whom he had two children. When she died, he married a white woman from Port Jackson, who, with another white woman, are the only European females.

The number of Europeans altogether is forty: most of them are married to native women, and I counted twenty-one of their children. There are about eighty natives,

with women and children. The children of Europeans by natives are a beautiful race, light brown, like Frenchmen from the south, not sallow in complexion, but with a healthy red on the cheeks; in features like the mother, from whom they inherit beautiful black eyes and hair. Seen in Europe, nobody would suspect that they were children between two different races, as they are, in my opinion, falsely considered. The chief person of the New Zealanders in Teawaiti is Tippai, who has three wives. Most of the natives are employed by the white men. They either have houses of their own, or are accommodated in those of the whites; they work as hard as any white man, pull an oar and kill a whale as well as they, do all services, and are paid for them. The white people do not impose upon them; being all relations, they have a common interest. The native women are well treated by their white husbands, and are dressed in a mixture of European clothes and native mats; they are fond of their children, and are anxious to have them educated. The natives plant potatoes and rear pigs, with the sale of which they procure European necessaries and luxuries. Where there are native missionaries they are much attended to. Generally speaking, a great desire for instruction is apparent; and we were often asked for pens and paper in return for services rendered to us.

I must not conceal that whalers and sailors have introduced ardent spirits, and that the natives sometimes spend quickly what they have hardly earned; but the native is naturally sober, dislikes drunkenness, and is ashamed of it when it happens. I have often seen them refuse spirits, and never found them eager to get them, as has been related of other coloured races.

On the same side as Teawaiti, follow, in the channel, two native settlements of Nyatiawas, called Wangenni and Okokurri, likewise situated on beaches, of which the latter one has the most inhabitants; not, however, exceeding 150 in both. They have carefully cultivated their soil, planted taro and potatoes in well-fenced gardens, have many pigs, and seem to be well off. They never go after spirits, or sell anything for it, and are very friendly com-

munities. The Wesleyans here, too, have instructed some native missionaries.

Cloudy Bay is occupied by people of the Cafia tribe. At the head of the bay, on a beach called Obisch, is a native settlement of about forty inhabitants. They are also of a very friendly disposition, and I partook one day their hospitality. Going from thence up the Sound, we find several bays with a few native houses. Before we reach Kakabo, or Guard's Bay, on the same side, there is a small whaling establishment, with a few white men. In Kakabo are two whaling establishments; and a small one opposite to it. There are only five white men including Mr. Guard, who first cleared the beach, about five years ago, and sixty natives. On Kakabo lives Raupero's brother, Thomas Street, the head chief. A very respectable Dutchman, Mr. Wynin, a great friend of the aborigines, settled here a few months ago, and the natives have just built a house for him. He carries on no trade business, but occupies himself much with these people, whose disposition he praises very much, and upon whom he exercises a happy influence. On that beach lives also a daughter of Tuppachi, who was in England, where he is well remembered. He was killed about ten years ago in Otago, following the standard of Raupero in a war with the southern natives.

Next to Kakabo follows another bay, called Oschen or Ocean Bay, with a large beach, where there are two whaling establishments. The number of white people is thirty, and the coloured about one hundred. Here I have nothing to add to my former remarks.

Further up Cloudy Bay, towards Wairoa, is another settlement of natives, which I have not yet visited. All the natives here about, as I have said before, are from the Cafia tribe.

At Manganui Atera, or Port Nicholson, only one white man had settled when we were there, who had come there about two years ago, and had taken a native woman; all others are natives. At a dance they gave us, I counted nearly 250 men, who had assembled from all parts of the shores round that inlet of the sea. About fifty were

absent, and the number of men is therefore about 300, to which an equal number of women and children may be added. The principal settlement is at the head of the bay; but the head chief, Warepori, does not live there, but resides on the western shore. On that shore is another little village; and opposite the head of the harbour is another large settlement, where a native missionary, Richard Davies, with his wife and four children, dwells. This missionary, in common with his village, belongs to the Nyatiawas, and he had been taken in his infancy by the Nyapuis, the tribe inhabiting the Bay of Islands, and had been educated there by Mr. Williams, the missionary. He had acquired some property there, and was brought back to his tribe by the missionary schooner, about four months ago, where he found his old mother still alive. He has built a large house and church, where he reads the sacred books in the native tongue. He and his wife are well instructed; he reads and writes his native language, and speaks English. I found him a very devout and honest man. He was in possession of European commodities, which he uses for the benefit of his fellow countrymen. Another missionary had been left by the Wesleyans at another bay. The natives of Port Nicholson are very honest people, eager to acquire instruction and arts. They are rich in their way, as they plant potatoes in great quantity, and possess a great many pigs, and their huts are better than the other native huts I have seen.

I have observed before that the place round Queen Charlotte Sound formerly belonged to a tribe called the Naitaus. It may be imagined that Raupero did not drive them away from their native homes without a bloody struggle. Most of them were killed; the remnants, who went to the South, nourish in their bosoms feelings of revenge against the intruders. Several times have they visited their native place, burnt the houses of the whites and the Cafia, or the Nyatiawa in Teawaiti, and carried off their property. The few white men defended themselves as well as they could, or escaped in their boats. Such an invasion took place about five years ago, at Kakabo, in Cloudy Bay, where then a Mr. Cook, who is

still on the beach, was the only settler. They burnt and plundered everything he had, and he fled in his boat, after several of the natives had been killed. They then retreated, in fear again of Raupero, and the white men, with their Cafia friends, returned. The same scene took place in Teawaiti; they killed and ate some of the victims, and retreated. At this moment a report is spread that they are coming with fifty boats and 700 men, all armed with muskets, to make war upon the Cafia. As their habit is surprise at night-time, the Cafia are on their guard, and have sent spies everywhere. I saw a girl of this tribe of the Naitaus in Kakabo, who had come from the interior the Southern Island in the ship Honduras, which was in the harbour where we were, who had very regular features, a very light colour, and a handsome intelligent countenance. The Cafia and Nyatiawa have intermarried, and on a footing of peace, but are envious of each other. Both tribes, however, are tired of war, and show the greatest attachment to Europeans.

All these tribes I have mentioned are of the same original race, and what I am going to say of one applies to all. All New Zealanders have the Caucasian physionomy, with this exception, that the mouth is, perhaps, larger, and the lips a little thicker. The skull, or head, is regularly and beautifully formed, with a high forehead, hair profuse, black and straight, but sometimes curled. Those who have visited England are no good specimens of the race. The women are well made, with small hands; both men and women have black penetrating eyes; they are remarkably soft and amiable in their manners. The stature offers no difference from that of the Europeans; they are muscular, and capable of great exertion. Their mental disposition is excellent; they are of a mild and cheerful temper, but at the same time clever, and easily instructed. Many of them can read and write imperfectly. They are honester than any people I am acquainted with; theft by them is an unheard-of thing in the settlements of the whites, and respecting our property, they were conscientious to the extreme. They are hospitable, fond of travelling about to see their relations and friends, and at every

interview after long absence, display the most passionate and kind feelings towards each other, the women then cutting their faces and arms with shells, so that they bleed and tears stream from their eyes.

I have seen no deformities, with the exception of two men with club feet. Umbilical rupture in children is rather frequent, owing to their imperfect manner of separation. I likewise observed some other ruptures. Fevers and miasmatic diseases are unknown; a cough was very frequent amongst them in Teawaiti and Port Nicholson; and with the stethoscope I found in some a tuberculous state of the lungs. This may be owing not so much to the sudden changes in the climate as to their living in close huts, where, when a fire is lighted and smoke emitted in great quantities, they are often in the practice of running out from them, imperfectly clothed, into the cold wind, which produces catarrhal complaints, and these being neglected, have the consequences above-mentioned follow. It may be added that they smoke much, which habit tends to irritate still more the affected bronchiae. When we were staying in Tit, Tippahi's wife was suffering under this complaint. The husband, thinking she was dying, had ordered the usual firing with muskets, every five minutes, which is continued until the patient is dead. I found her in a hut, the only opening of which was a door about two square feet in size, lying on the ground in the arms of her husband. A fire emitted a glowing heat, and the hut was full of smoke. She was surrounded by about two dozen people, and bathed with perspiration, with a very depressed pulse. We requested Tippahi to bring her into the open front room, usual before the houses of the chiefs, and to interrupt the gun firing. She soon recovered, and after some days she was perfectly well. So a complaint, unimportant in the beginning, becomes, by a perverse treatment, pernicious in its consequences.

The people generally dress in their mats; in these places we saw them have either a blanket or some other piece of European clothing. The fern root, formerly their only nourishment, has given way to the potatoes and fish, either fresh or dried. They rarely eat pork, preserving

it carefully for trade. Their only drink is water, and I have never seen them sell anything for spirits. The New Zealand women are well treated by their husbands, although they attend to all the business of the house, cook, and make mats and baskets. They have few children, and the habit of child-murder is not unfrequent, which is perhaps due to the unsettled state of things in the country, or to superstition, for instance, if in the birth of the child there is anything abnormal; but they are fond of their children, carry them everywhere about, and like to see them taken notice of. In all New Zealand communities I have seen, there were a few slaves, prisoners taken in war, but I never observed that they were ill treated; they were considered as members of the community, so far as I could learn. The people generally appeared to be in possession of plenty of muskets and ammunition of war; but I am perfectly convinced that their possession did not tend to make them more warlike, but rather more peaceable, as they felt more prepared to resist an invasion.

These short observations, which time does not allow me to enlarge upon, will show what may be expected from colonization; or rather, this question need not be asked, as it appears that already there are everywhere white settlers. The natives like Europeans; they want to mix with them, and partake in our commodities; but ought we to attempt – shall we try to introduce our language? Certainly not; and the New Zealanders, though they learn a foreign, will not let their own be extinguished. Great praise is due to the missionaries for printing books in the native language, and propagating them; but this noble activity should not be confined to the prayer-book alone – a provision should be made for other useful books; and I would especially advise that they should contain coloured wood-cuts or lithographs, of which they are very fond, and which would quickly bring to their understanding the idea of the thing that is represented, and nourish, at the same time, their skill in arts, and teach them to use their wood-carving to some useful purpose. I have no doubt that the Honourable Company will take this into consideration. They want

NATURALIST'S REPORT – SUGGESTIONS.

likewise paper, pencils, slates; a collection of models sent into every settlement would be easily comprehended, and imitated by them. And to do something for their clothing, I would recommend to leave the European style and send out for trade some more commodious cloak-like dresses, and for the women simple gowns, of which they are very fond. Now, they soon lay aside our trowsers and jackets, and return to their native mats and to blankets. At the same time, a regular schoolmaster should not be forgotten to instruct them, and to take care of interesting but wild youths, who are ready to learn anything. Plenty of needles and scissors for the women, combs, soap, are in great request. I could not omit to name these few articles, as they will tend to do great good, unimportant as they seem to be, and a minute thing of that kind will ensure to many a colonist a welcome reception. Muskets are superfluous, as they are sufficiently provided with, and of no longer use. Musical instruments are likewise very much liked, and the natives would soon make progress in them.

No. VI.

No. VI.

Colonel Wakefield's Third Despatch to the New Zealand Company.

Teawaiti, Tory Channel, Sunday,
13th October, 1839.
SIR, – Having waited since the 9th instant, the date of my last letter to you, in Cloudy Bay, for the arrival of Mr. Barrett, who was to be our pilot across the Strait and on the western coast of the North Island, we came round to this place to-day in search of him. We entered the channel from the south-east, with a favourable wind, against a strong ebb-tide; but it would be unadvisable to do so in a heavy-sailing ship. The Honduras, which takes my last letters and the specimens to Sydney, had the tide in her favour in going in yesterday, but struck on a rock at the northern head, and narrowly escaped being totally wrecked. She is now here, making eight inches water an hour, but will proceed on her destination in a few days. Before leaving Port Underwood, I visited its principal bays and settlements, but saw nothing to induce me to change the unfavourable opinion I entertained of it as a harbour, or a place of settlement for Europeans.

Monday, 14th October. – Finding Mr. Barrett's wife too ill to allow him to leave home, I made arrangements with him to pick him up at the northern entrance to Queen Charlotte's Sound, after I shall have been to Kapiti, and made my preparations for a visit to Raupero and the heads of the Kafia tribe, with no intermediate beyond an interpreter, whom I engaged in Cloudy Bay.

This visit, besides entering into my original plan, according to the suggestion contained in my instructions, is necessary for the ratification of the purchase of Port Nicholson, that no future question shall arise as to the Company's right to that territory, and to put an end to

HISTORY OF RAUPERO.

the opposition experienced from the subordinate Kafia chiefs in all parts of Cook's Strait.

The history of Raupero is the most eventful and worthy of record of any existing New Zealand chief. His expulsion, and that of all his numerous and powerful tribe, from their native district, Kafia, by the Waikato and Bay of Islands hosts, is well known to you from the mention it has received in numerous works on this country. Their forcible seizure and occupation, in their turn, of all the coast land on both sides of this strait has also been described; but the means he has employed for the aggrandizement of his people, and the causes of his pre-eminence and influence amongst all classes and clans, extending also to the foreign residents and visiters in the southern parts of these islands, have not been dwelt on.

Raupero is at least sixty years old. When a young man, he acquired a reputation for strength and courage, founded on his skill in native warfare, which his wiliness and success in all his undertakings have preserved for him in his old age. He came from Kafia as the fighting general of Ti Pahi; and after the death of the latter at Otago, by Tairoa and the Southern tribes, became chief of the tribe. To revenge Ti Pahi's death, which was accomplished by tying him up by the heels to a tree and cutting his throat, at which his enemies sucked his blood, Raupero engaged with a master of an English vessel, by name Stewart, to carry him and some of his people to Otago, under pretence of a trading-voyage, where the master coaxed on board a leading chief of the tribe and his family.

Some of these were immediately killed; after which Raupero and Stewart, with their myrmidons, landed andlaid waste the settlements, killing every man, woman, and child, that came in their way. The chief who had been enticed on board was made fast in the cabin by a hook through his throat; and in despair at seeing his daughter about to become the victim of these monsters, killed her with his own hands. During the voyage back to Kapiti, the old man was despatched; and it is a fact, that one of the ship's coppers was in use for cooking human flesh for his

guest, and that Stewart and his crew participated, if not in the feast, in the atrocious murder and revolting preparations for it.

By similar treachery has Raupero acquired his power in other parts, and become the terror of all the neighbouring tribes. Unable to cope with the Nyatiawas, whom he was forced to allow to live on the lands in Queen Charlotte Sound, Port Nicholson, and on the main abreast of Kapiti, when they were driven from Taranake, he is occasionally in alliance with them, and more than once has led them into an encounter with their mutual Southern enemies, for the purpose of deserting them with his people in the midst of the fight; by losses in which manner they have been much thinned. In all negotiations, Raupero is considered skilful, and is referred to upon many occasions. In his dealings with Europeans and Americans, he makes use of alternate begging and extorting measures, according to thepower of resistance to his demands he may meet with; and might, if he had been prudent, be now extremely rich by his trafficking for supplies for ships, and the presents he has received. He receives tribute from numerous petty tribes and slaves; and the stronger tribes are occasionally constrained to purchase peace at his hands.

On the whole, he is disposed to encourage and protect European settlers; and having been several times to Port Jackson, knows how to appreciate the commodities of civilized life.

No longer since than last week, to afford a treat to the chiefs of Nyatiroco, or Boiling-water tribe, who assembled at Mana upon the occasion of the mourning for his sister's death, he sacrificed a slave of the Rhangatanis, who had come from Admiralty Bay with presents of dried fish; but my informant, an Englishman, who saw the unfortunate man being dragged to his fate, says that more disguise as to the disposal of the body was made use of than heretofore, in consequence of Raupero having of late professed himself a Missionary, and that he intended to discourage cannibalism.

In resolving to visit and conciliate this old savage, however strong my repugnance to his character and practices, I

ENGLISH SAILORS IN NEW ZEALAND.

am more led by the hope of acquiring his land, on which to locate a society which shall put an end to his reign, than by any good wishes to him, and of obtaining influence with his presumptive successor, Hiko, who bears a much better character.

Tuesday, 15th October. – This morning four of our crew left the ship at their own request, with a view of settling at Cloudy Bay. As they were not the best of sailors, and as our crew on leaving England was rather stronger than usual in similar vessels, I acceded to their request to leave us. In the evening, two others deserted to join their comrades, induced by the hopes held out to them by the English on shore of enjoyment of all kinds. As the whaling-season is now over, they will all probably be starving within a month, and will then, if they can find a ship, engage with it. This is the usual practice; but the scarcity of whale-ships in the Strait now leaves many men without resources. The beaches in Cloudy Bay and at Teawaiti present the most miserable scenes of idleness, drunkenness, and recklessness amongst our countrymen.

We left the Tory Channel with the ebb-tide, which sweeps a ship outside of the heads at a rapid rate. The northern headland has long borne the name of "Wellington Head," taken from the first vessel that entered the Sound by this channel. On getting an offing, a fine view of the Strait opens to the view. From Cape Campbell to Cape Koemaroo on the south, and from Cape Palliser to Entry Island on the northern side, every headland and bay is visible. Baring and Sinclair Heads, the outermost points of Port Nicholson, are conspicuous objects. As we beat up the Strait, Mana or Table Island, and the land abreast of Kapiti on the one side, and Queen Charlotte's Sound and the coast as far as Stephen's Island on the other, opened to us. Abreast of Mana is the small river and harbour of Pererua, into which a vessel drawing seven feet can enter at high-water. Next to that river, at about twelve miles distant, and exactly abreast of Kapiti, is Waikanoi, a large settlement of the Ngatiawas. Here commences a low sandy beach, with shoal water a long way out, and runs with little exception to Cape Egmont.

ARRIVAL AT KAPITI.

In this space of coast, little known to Europeans, and presenting on the charts since the time of Cook the wave-line indicating that no survey has been made of it, there are as many as nine small rivers flowing from the high lands which belt the plains of Taranake and Kafia to the southward. The most considerable of them is Wanganui, or Knowsley River. The coast is open to the swell occasioned by the prevalent winds, and altogether unsuited to examination and survey by large craft. The people, cut off from communication with strangers, carry on a perpetual war against each other.

Kapiti, Wednesday, 16th October.
We came to an anchor to-day off Kapiti, near to Evans's Island, which is a low termination of a reef running off from the former, and the residence and whaling-station of a large establishment carried on by Mr. Evans for Mr.Peterson, of Sydney. We arrived just at the close of a smart engagement which had taken place on the main at about two miles distant, and in sight of our anchorage, between the Ngatirocowas and Ngatiawas. The former mustered in great force from all parts of the coast I mentioned yesterday, and stealing into the pah, or fortified village of the latter in the night, killed some of them as they left their huts at daylight. In the course of the morning, the fighting was carried on on the beach; and ended in the Ngatirocowas being defeated, with a loss of forty-five left dead on the shore, whilst their enemy had but fourteen killed. The quarrel, which is of long standing, was brought to a crisis by the former having killed some sheep at Mana during the late crying-feast, which the latter had tried to protect, and by the irritation produced by contact in the passage of the Ngatirocowas in front of the settlements of the Ngatiawas in their journey to and from Mana. Raupero, with his usual caution, had kept himself out of harm's way, but had gone over late in the contest, with a view, as he told us afterwards, of making peace, but as people here say, with that of encouraging his allies. Finding him absent, and desirous to see at least one party of the belligerents, I mustered an amateur boat's crew, our surgeons taking their instruments with them, in case of

INTERVIEW WITH RAUPERO.

being able to render assistance to the wounded; and was on the point of starting for Waikanai, the scene of bloodshed, when a boat arrived from Evans's Island with a message from Raupero, expressing his wish to see me there. It appeared that he had landed on the main, but finding his party defeated, and unwilling to trust himself with their opponents, had returned to Kapiti. At the same time, he had seen our ship anchor near his settlement, and had betaken himself with all his valuables to the English whaling-settlement, for protection from some imaginary danger he anticipated from us. This must have arisen in his mind from knowing that he had been making very violent speeches as to his intentions respecting us for purchasing Port Nicholson without his sanction, and threats of snatching from the residents of that place the goods I had left in payment for it. He also had expressed his anxiety to the English whalers, respecting the persons on board; no doubt bearing in mind his own treacherous visit to Otago, for which reason he would not come on board. On our leaping from the boat, he arose from his seat on the beach, and in evident fear, and with the greatest servility, sought our hands to give us the Missionary greeting. It was some time before he was reassured as to our intentions towards him, and during the whole interview betrayed a feeling of insecurity but little consistent with his customary vapouring and insolence.

He made a pious speech about the morning's affair, and declared that he would not interfere; being determined to discountenance further fighting. He accepted my invitation to come on board to-morrow, and hurried away to the settlement of Rangaihiro, an influential but peaceable chief of his tribe.

In person, Raupero is not conspicuous amongst his countrymen, his height being rather under the average. His years sit lightly on him; he is hale and stout, and his hair but slightly touched with grey. His countenance expresses keenness and vivacity, whilst a receding forehead and deep eyelids, in raising which his eyebrows are elevated into the furrows of his brow, give a resemblance to the ape in the upper part of the face, which I have remarked in

WHALING.

many of the natives. He was cleanly dressed in the ordinary mat and outer blanket, worn as the toga; slow and dignified in his action; and had not his wandering and watchful looks betrayed his doubts as to his safety, perfectly easy in his address.

The whaling-establishment here is most complete, and very superior to those of the poor shore-parties we have seen. Their boats put off after a whale, which came in sight during our visit, and showed a discipline and ensemble in their movements similar to those of a well-regulated man of war. The party has obtained 250 tuns of oil during the season, and the second in command told me he had realized 300l. to his share.

Thursday, 17th October. – This morning our three surgeons went to Waikanai, where they found plenty of work. The Ngatiawa people had fifty wounded in yesterday's engagement. Their opponents carried off as many on their side. Amongst the dead of the latter were two principal chiefs. Several bullets were cut out and preparations made for an amputation to-morrow. Some of the wounds are very dangerous, having been received at close-quarters, and the natives had set many limbs with ligatures of flax. The wounded were found each attended by a relation, and were patient and cheerful under the operations. Several tomahawk and spear wounds evinced the deadly nature of the struggle.

In this instance the Ngatiawas were the aggressed. They have for some months complied with the forms of Missionary worship, and all abjure further wars, except in self-defence. The native Missionaries with them, one of whom we knew in Queen Charlotte's Sound, took arms in the late affair, and were the foremost amongst the combatants. The tribe is about to muster from all parts, and will then probably attack in their turn. The total number of combatants on both sides, after making every deduction for native miscalculation, could not have been less than eight hundred. The Kafia people here remained neutral, with few exceptions; but the sympathies of all seem on the side of the Ngatiawas, who, by their mild conduct since the introduction of Missionary customs, have gained much

NEGOTIATION FOR THE PURCHASE OF THE KAFIA TERRITORY.

in the opinion of foreign settlers, and even of their moresavage countrymen. Some idea may be formed of their present feelings and habits by a knowledge of the fact, that whilst we were at Port Nicholson, three hundred of these people fell in four deep, and marched to the funeral of Mr. Love, the oldest settler at Teawaiti, to whom they were attached; after which, they enclosed a space around the grave and erected a monument to his memory, by setting up a canoe painted black and white, and otherwise decorated.

Whilst the party was on shore, I received on board Raupero and the other chiefs of the Kafia tribe, with a salute to the New Zealand flag. They all came prejudiced against the sale of any land, in consequence of the English from Cloudy Bay having told them that the white people intended to drive the natives away from any settlements they might form, and also betrayed great jealousy respecting the purchase of Port Nicholson.

After much discussion, they appeared to be convinced of the sincerity of my assurances that the English settlers were coming amongst them as friends, and would better their condition by employing and paying them; and ended by telling me to look at their lands, and, if I found them good, to take them. Raupero and his wife, who is also his step-daughter, stayed to dinner, and the former sat for his portrait to Mr. Heaphy. Some relations of his, belonging to the Ngatirocowa tribe, were also on board, and offered me the land on which that restless tribe resides.

Hiko or Ehiko, the son of Ti Pahi, is the most rising man in this part of the islands. Inheriting from his father large possessions conquered by the Kafia tribe, and from his mother, a Ngatiawa woman of consequence, great influence with the latter, he combines the power of both tribes, and although not yet allowed to take a lead in speaking in their councils, is acknowledged as the virtual chief of the Kafia people; Rangaihiro, his uncle, represents him in all public discussions. These two were distant and shy in their intercourse with all on board, but listened to what I had to say, and acknowledged the justice of my remarks on the benefit to be derived by them from the settlement of the English in the Strait.

Friday, 18th October. – Raupero was again on board, accompanied by Tunia and other chiefs. After a long conversation, they agreed to sell me all the lands possessed by the Kafia tribe on both sides of the Strait. The negotiation was difficult and disagreeable; none of the good feeling I had met with at Port Nicholson being displayed. Their rights to large portions of territory are, however, indisputable, and if ceded conjointly with those of the Ngatiawas, will entitle the possessors to the commanding portions of the two islands in these latitudes.

Our surgeons were unable to persuade any of their patients to undergo amputation to-day at Waikanai. It appears that the slaughter of the Ngatiawas would have been more considerable, but for the alarm given by a boy of ten years old, who was awake when one of their enemies presented himself at the door of a hut as a spy: he asked for a light, but being recognised by the boy, was shot dead by him on the spot. Raupero had urged the Ngatirocowas to attack, and promised assistance in two canoes with ammunition, but failed in his engagement. He landed on the beach, and was well nigh taken by the Ngatiawas. Their opponents, however, covered his retreat to the water's edge, whence he swam off to his canoe; and they were obliged to retire for want of ammunition.

In the evening, after a strong wind from the north-east during the day, a violent south-east gale sprung up without a moment's notice, and blew with great fury. The sea rose in half an hour, and it was with difficulty a party of us reached the ship from the shore. The roadstead is tolerably protected by a reef from Evans's Island, and the holding-ground good; but of late years the whale-ships have adopted a new anchorage abreast of the two small islands at the south end of Kapiti; but it is not so good as the roadstead where we are, in respect of facility of going to sea, should the gale drive the ship. The land at Waikanai is flat for five miles deep to the first ridge of hills, which are not high, and enclose fine valleys between them and the range of interior mountains. The shore is a collection of sand-hummocks, on which the natives have their villages; but beyond them there is alluvial soil and timber

in the usual abundance. This flat belt runs, as I have said, to Cape Egmont. The beach is of hard sand, and very broad, affording room for a fine road on its whole length. The produce of this country, which widens from fifteen to thirty miles to the northward, and contains land fit for the plough, might also be transported to Port Nicholson, or elsewhere in the Strait, by means of small steam-vessels, which could call off the rivers during a cessation of the north-west winds; but the nature of the coast, as I have before said, totally prevents constant intercourse with ships.

Saturday, 19th October. – The gale continued to-day with increasing strength, and prevented communication with the shore. The wind in the Strait is seldom the same as at sea to either end of it. The southerly or south-west wind outside, being drawn into the funnel formed by the high land on both islands, becomes, abreast of Cape Terawaiti and the Brothers, which is the narrowest part of the Strait, south-east; and the north wind between New Holland and these coasts assumes an inclination from the north-west when taken in under Cape Egmont. Navigators may therefore expect always to find the wind set through the Strait, and must not be surprised to meet strong tide rips, having the appearance of breakers, even in the most open parts, occasioned by the flowing or receding waters striking off the various capes and headlands, and meeting the wind from whatever quarter it may come.

Monday, 21st October. – It was only this morning that the weather permitted any boats to put off from the shore, when Raupero and some other chiefs came on board. Hiko and his uncle Rangaihiro, who, from being Ti Pahi's brother, is much considered amongst his tribe, came out, however, with them. To those assembled I made a proposal to buy all their possessions, rights, and claims, on both sides of the Strait; which, after they had seen a great portion of the goods I intended to give in payment, was accepted by all. This repetition of the bargain was necessary from the presence of some who had not been at the previous interview, and not thrown away upon those who had: for no native is ever satisfied that a purchase can be effected unless many discussions take place respect-

ing the terms. The sight of the goods seemed to decide their intentions; the quantity being far beyond what they had ever seen received for any sale of land in their country, and the reality of them convincing them that I had the means of performing my part of the treaty, which is not always the case with the white people the natives have to deal with. A full explanation took place as to the disposal of all their rights. A plan of those parts of the two islands in which they own land by right of conquest or inheritance was diligently examined by them. It was repeatedly told them, to their perfect comprehension, that no future sale of these rights or lands was to be made by them, and that no further payment was to be expected from the purchasing party. The reserve of a suitable portion of the land for the maintenance of the chiefs, their families, and successors for ever, was also dwelt on, and met with their highest approval. They repeatedly declared that they desired more than anything else the residence of Englishmen amongst them; and that they would live with them as brothers, working for them, and receiving from them payment, as the white men they have seen do from their masters.

With this clear understanding they left the ship, promising to return to-morrow to sign the deed and receive the payment.

Tuesday, 22d October. – A succession of north-west gales and Hiko's sickness prevented the completion of the sale to-day. Raupero, constant in his attendance upon any ship where there is anything to be gained by fair or foul means, came to us in spite of the weather. He wished the transactions to be finished without Hiko, who, he said, was a boy, and had nothing to do with the land. He asked for more arms and powder, and declined such articles as blankets, soap, iron ware, &c. "Of what use to us," he cried, "are such things when we are going to war? What does it matter to us whether we die clean or dirty, cold or warm, hungry or full? We must have two-barrelled guns, plenty of muskets, ball-cartridges, powder, lead, and cartridge-paper."

A small vessel arrived to-day from Sydney. She

THE CHIEF TAIROA.

brought news of the eagerness of the Sydney speculators to buy land in New Zealand upon hearing of the establishment of the Company, and of the probability of the British Government paying attention to the colonization of these islands, and deeds on board from various merchants, to be filled up by the chiefs' names, for various plots of ground for which some trifling consideration might have been given, or for the cession of which some promise has been made by chiefs who have visited Port Jackson.

News also arrived of the arrival at Waikanai of Warepori and his fighting men, from Port Nicholson, to assist the Ngatiawas against the Ngatirocowas; also of the natives in the Bay of Plenty, on the eastern coast, being at war; and lastly, of the progress from the southward of Tairoa with his numerous followers, on a burning and pillaging excursion to Cloudy Bay and Queen Charlotte's Sound. This Tairoa is represented as the most Europeanized chief in New Zealand. He lives at Otago, where he has a large house, built after the fashion of those of English residents, numerous whale-boats, which he employs in taking whales, and an establishment conducted in a similar manner to those of foreign shore-parties. He dresses like an Englishman, and all his people are far more advanced in European habits than any of the other natives of either island. His tribes number about seven hundred fighting men, and as I have before mentioned, have repeatedly ravaged the settlements in Cook's Strait.

Wednesday, 23d October. – This morning, finding that, at the distance the ship was from the shore, little communication could take place during bad weather, we changed our anchorage, and brought up nearer to Hiko's Island, but still, owing to a head-wind and strong tide, at a considerable distance from land. Hiko, Raupero, Rangaihiro, and all the chiefs of the Kafia tribes excepting Rangiata, who resides at Mana, were on board, however, early; and a third talk on the important matter on hand took place, in the presence of at least twenty witnesses, and ended in the full cession to me, for the Company, of all their rights and claims on both islands. I was desirous that a perfect knowledge of what the chiefs were doing should be spread

NEGOTIATION BROKEN OFF.

amongst all their followers, and encouraged the presence of all who wished to witness the proceedings. Our decks were, in consequence, thronged with natives, male and female. Every one expressed his consent to the sale, and his desire to see the payment made. The goods were accordingly got up and placed on deck. I had asked the principal people whether there was anything beyond the articles I had enumerated in the deed, which they wished for; and had, at Hiko's request, given a bale of clothing, to enable the chiefs to go on board the emigrant-ships in a decent costume. He had also accepted the blankets, soap, and dresses for the women, and had put down the clamour for arms made by all the rest. Nothing remained to be done but to distribute the fowling-pieces, of which there were only a dozen, amongst the leaders, and for them to sign the deed of conveyance. The guns were brought up and placed on the head of the companion-ladder; upon which Raupero, Tunia, usually called the "Wild Fellow," and other fighting chiefs, made a rush at them, and each attempted to possess himself of a double-barrelled piece. Hiko, who was busy in arraying himself in a comfortable coat at the time, no sooner saw that the Kafia people were likely to carry off the most valued property by their old habits of violence, than, calling Rangaihiro and his boat's crew, he threw off his partly-acquired clothes, and left the ship in high displeasure at Raupero and his followers. The negotiation was thus abruptly terminated. I sent the whole of the goods below, and declared the bargain at an end, as I was determined not to proceed without Hiko and his uncle being parties in the transaction. Then arose amongst these lawless and headless savages mutual reproaches and recriminations. Each accused the other of having prevented them from acquiring what all so much wished for. The guilty, in order to exonerate themselves, threw the blame on me. They accused me of partiality to Hiko. "Who was he, that he should be preferred to the old men? What had he to do with the land, that he was to be so much considered?" They even proceeded to make their customary grimaces at me, and the Wild Fellow jumped about the deck as if to commence the exciting

THE TREATY RESUMED.

dance previous to an attack. "We will sell our lands to the French and Americans," they exclaimed; "we do not want your payment. Presently there will be plenty of ships here from Port Jackson, and to them we will give all we possess. We will go to fight at Port Nicholson, and kill all your people there."

To these taunts and threats I returned either laughter or indifference; which, together with an occasional declaration that, whether we dealt or not, they must conduct themselves quietly or leave the ship, soon brought them to a calmer state. They then begged me to go on with the distribution of the things, and they would sell all their lands, leaving Hiko to arrange for his separately. To this request I refused to accede.

If I had been disposed to feel surprised at the sudden breaking-off of negotiations so nearly brought to a conclusion, or had not been prepared for worse contingencies in the course of my intercourse with these people, I should have felt mortified beyond measure at seeing the sudden and unexpected failure of my efforts to effect a purchase of their territory.

If I did not commiserate the mental condition of a wild race just commencing an interchange with civilized people, and were not aware of the cruel delusions and dishonest practices of most of the foreigners they have seen, towards them, I should have been angry with their violent and perverse conduct; but I should have been ill fulfilling the task assigned to me if I had shown any want of command of temper, or even of countenance, upon the occasion. In a short time we were as good friends as ever, and renewed our conversation respecting the qualities, situation, and produce of their respective residences, with as much earnestness on their part as if the treaty were in full progress.

The wind again rising to a gale, it was found advisable to again shift our anchorage to the shelter of the two small islands. By this time, most of the natives had gone on shore; but Raupero and Tunia remained with a vague hope of obtaining the two guns they had chosen for themselves. Instead of getting immediately to our new berth

VISIT TO HIKO.

near the islands, it was necessary to tack several times, and at one time we were three miles off Kapiti. The sea ran high, and the gale meeting the flood-tide caused a ripple in which a small vessel would not live. The spankerboom was also broken short in two by a violent flurry. On wearing the ship to regain the islands, it lay in the trough of the sea, and several waves broke over it. At this moment poor Mr. Raupero, the king of New Zealand, as he calls himself, was in a piteous fright; declaring that the vessel would capsize, and, as Nayti assured us, muttering prayers most earnestly. Some jokes, also, as to taking him and the Wild Fellow to Port Nicholson, gave him an ill-disguised uneasiness.

On our anchoring, in the evening, he resumed his usual boasting manner, and did more than usual execution upon our fare at table. He left us as if all negotiations were at an end, and without a promise of returning to-morrow.

Thursday, 24th October. – I went on shore early to Hiko's Island. I found him glad to see me. He showed me round the wretched rock on which he lives, and a canoe he is building; and talked to me a great deal about his father, Ti Pahi, and England. He preserves carefully the presents Ti Pahi had brought with him, and remembers the last instructions he received from him before the expedition to the south, in which he lost his life. These were, shortly, to cultivate the friendship of the English, to keep no slaves, and to be honest in his dealings with all. His conduct proves that he has profited by these injunctions; for he is most friendly with our countrymen, and has made many friends at Sydney – he pays the natives for labour, contrary to the practice of Raupero and the other chiefs who own slaves, and never asks to be paid twice for anything he may sell.

He is well aware of the nature of a bargain, and asks a larger price for his pigs, cattle, and wood, than those who, by force of threats or importunity, obtain repeated payment for the same object. His person is tall and distinguished, and his countenance and manner extremely winning. The influenza, which has prevailed lately here,

CONCLUSION OF THE PURCHASE.

has affected his health, and physical weakness adds to his naturally quiet and unpresuming demeanour.

After our conversation, which we managed to carry on without an interpreter, he and Raupero came on board with me, unattended by any followers. I also took with me Captain Lewis, a respectable American, resident as a whaler on Hiko's Island. When on board alone, the two chiefs seemed to agree to lay aside their mutual jealousies. They looked over the plates in Cook's Voyages, and talked of the English having been the first to come to see their country. They then begged to have the deed of conveyance read to them. This was done, in the presence of Captain Lewis and all our party, and translated in all its important parts to their perfect understanding. The map of the territory to be ceded was also again shown to them; and they pointed out to what places they had claim, and told me that no one lived on most parts of it, and that a great deal of it was of no use to any one, and least of all to them.

They then executed the deed, and taking their double-barrelled guns, said they would send the other chiefs to sign when the remainder of the goods should be delivered, and went on shore.

On looking at the accompanying map of those parts of the two islands bordering on Cook's Strait, in which I have thus acquired possessions for the Company, and extending from the 38th to the 43d degree of latitude on the western coast, and from the 41st to the 43d on the eastern, you will readily conceive that I have not obtained a title to all the land included within those parallels. It is necessary, in order properly to appreciate the extent and value of the purchase, to know the different possessors and claimants of the above territory. The whole extent is owned by the Kafia, the Ngatiawas, the Ngatirocowa, and the Wanganui tribes. An immense portion on the Southern Island is uninhabited; but having been conquered by the Kafia people, is acknowledged to be theirs. Queen Charlotte's Sound and Wanganui, near Cape Farewell, are occupied by the Ngatiawas. On the Northern Island within the above-named boundaries, the Kafia tribe has

OBSERVATIONS ON FORMER PURCHASES.

but few possessions; whilst the Ngatiawas possess and inhabit Port Nicholson, Waikanai, and other small portions. The Ngatiawas occupy the district of Otaki, between Waikanai and Wanganui; and the last-mentioned district is occupied by a numerous tribe of the same name.

In order therefore to complete the rights of the Company to all the land unsold to foreigners in the above extensive district, it remains for me to secure the cession of their rights in it from the Ngatiawas, and in a proportionally small tract from the Ngatirocowas and Wanganui people. Before leaving the Strait, I have sanguine hopes of being able to effect this with the former tribe, and have already opened a negotiation by means of one of the principal chiefs of Queen Charlotte's Sound, who has been living on board during our visit here. As to the Ngatirocowa district, time will not allow me to treat with its actual possessors, even if the war in which they are engaged, and their unsettled state, permitted them to pay attention to the subject. The Kafia tribe has the same claim to that part of the country, also, which it had to Port Nicholson and Queen Charlotte's Sound; and this claim I have by to-day's purchase acquired. I do not, however, lay much stress on the possession of claims on land which a numerous tribe holds by the strong title of occupancy.

As regards the purchases made previous to this day's date in the neighbourhood of the Strait by foreigners, they are, I feel assured, too insignificant to interfere with the views of the Company. Here and there a small bay may have been purchased and settled on by whalers in Cloudy Bay and the Sound, but no extensive district has been acquired from either the Kafia or the Ngatiawa tribes; and, in my belief, no regular document has been made upon any occasion, and in most cases of occupation of this kind no consideration has been given for the land.

Mr. Wynen, whom I have mentioned, pretends to have bought a tract of land up the Oyerri or Pelorus river; but the chiefs here who claim all that district, have repeatedly declared to me that they do not recognise the bargain, as he gave them no payment, but has promised to have a ship from Sydney with goods for that purpose. In many other

instances within my knowledge the chiefs do not recognize the rights of British claimants, from want of a consideration having been received; whilst in others, where payment was made, no document recording the transaction exists. In all the vessels now arriving from Sydney, deeds are brought to be filled up and signed, in consequence of the land having lately acquired a marketable value; but whenever the time may come when a commission shall examine the titles to land in these islands, it will be found that but very few written records of purchases, prior to this day's date, of any portion of land within the boundaries of my purchase, can be produced.

Be this as it may, I have by to-day's deed acquired the land in possession and claimed at this time by the Kafia chiefs and the clearly-acknowledged rights of Hiko, as connected with that and the Ngatiawa tribe; have overcome the most difficult step towards the exclusive possession of the rights of these tribes; and have received a solemn ratification of my previous purchase of the district of Port Nicholson, which was only questioned by the parties to the late sale.

In purchasing on the large scale I have done in this transaction – in marking the boundaries of territory acquired, upon the fullest and most satisfactory explanation and examination, by parallels of latitude – I conceive that I have obtained as safe and binding a title as if the subject of negotiation had been but a single acre, and defined by a creek or a notched tree; and it must be remembered that nine-tenths of the land is without an inhabitant to dispute possession, and that the payment I have made to the owners is large when valued by the standard of exchange known amongst them, and perfectly satisfactory to the sellers.

Respecting the value of the land to the Company I do not pretend to give a decided opinion. My remarks on the mountainous nature of the northern end of the Southern Island will produce an unfavourable impression as to its eligibility for a place of settlement for the British emigrant, which my testimony to the good qualities of its soil and climate will scarcely remove. The numerous excellent harbours in the Strait must not be forgotten in the enu-

DISTRIBUTION OF THE GOODS.

meration of its advantages; and in these there are many districts of flat land available with little labour and outlay.

Friday, 25th October. – At daylight this morning the whole of the chiefs and numerous members of their families came on board, anxious to complete the sale. The deed was again produced, and thoroughly explained to all. It was executed by all the chiefs present. Raupero and Charley signed it by proxy for some relations at Cloudy Bay, who are not of consequence in the disposal of the land, but who will receive part of the payment by their names being recorded. The signature of Rangaiata is to be obtained at Mana, and his portion was left on board to insure it. The affair was concluded most amicably, and without further discussion or dissension amongst the chiefs. They begged me to distribute the fowling-pieces as I thought fit; and it happened that my selection was satisfactory to all. The remainder of the goods were taken on shore in our boats and placed in order on the beach, where we saw a very peaceable distribution take place in the course of the day. Various rumours reached me of the opinion of the natives as to the sale and payment. Some said that they had sold land which did not belong to them, alluding to the districts occupied by the Ngatiawas, which I have yet to purchase of that tribe; whilst others betrayed a notion that the sale would not affect their interests, from an insufficiency of emigrants arriving to occupy so vast a space, to prevent them retaining possession of any parts they choose, or of even reselling them at the expiration of a reasonable period.

No one was so rejoiced at the termination of this noisy and troublesome bargain as myself; and after the natives had left the ship, a party of us landed on Kapiti, and enjoyed an excursion to its summit, the more from having been so long confined by bad weather, and the late negotiations. This island, from the excessive steepness of the hills which form it, can never become of great value to the agriculturist. Its shores are nearly perpendicular, and of great height. On the top are occasional table-lands, onwhich the timber has been burned, and where a good pas-

ISLANDS OF KAPITI AND MANA.

turage grows. The valleys are narrow, and afford no temptation to the settler. The island is about fifteen miles in circumference. On the side towards the main, which is distant about five miles, there is a long point of flat land, on which is a lagoon. On this part, as well as on another point at the east end, are some twenty or thirty head of cattle, owned by Hiko and Raupero, but claimed by Mr.Cooper, of Sydney, who sent down the original stock to be placed under the charge of the former chief. From the heights is a fine view of the Waikanai country, with many of its small rivers debouching in the Strait, and of Mana, distant sixteen miles. The latter island is not half the size of Kapiti, but is perfectly level on its wedge-like summit. There are many cattle and more than 500 sheep on it, which thrive well. Both these places are excluded from my purchase, and will be the subject of many disputes, plots of them having been sold over and over again to different parties. The north-west eminence of Kapiti is well adapted for a light-house, from which vessels entering the Strait from the westward would take a departure; and which, in conjunction with one on Baring Head, would be of the greatest value to navigators. The steepness of Kapiti renders the roadstead subject to violent flurries of wind, which are dangerous to shipping. Yesterday our cutter was capsized on coming from shore, and Mr. Heaphy and Mr. Robinson narrowly escaped drowning. A canoe brought off the former from the boat, which we saved, as it floated down near the ship, bottom upwards. Thothers with difficulty reached the shore by swimming on the oars. Since we have been here it has never ceased blowing hard. This afternoon a brig from Sydney, which has been drifting about in the Strait for five days, contrived to anchor in the roadstead. No one in her knew the coast; and being as badly found as most Sydney trading-vessels usually are, there positively being no binnacle and only a small-boat compass on board, and no chronometer, it wasmiraculous that she was not lost, as many others we have heard of have been on these coasts within these few years. But with the best ships the Strait is not to be played with. Even in our well-equipped ship, the skill and vigour of

CHARACTER OF RAUPERO.

her commander, which are of no ordinary character, have been often taxed during our short visit.

Saturday, 26th October. – I visited to-day the small island on which Raupero lives. It partly belongs to Captain Mayhew, an American, who has a store on it. The habits of the old chief are conspicuous in this place. A miserable house, tabooed for himself and wife, with one end parted off for his son, offers no temptation to his enemies, nor calls forth the envy of his rival allies. Near it are piled up cases of tobacco, of cotton goods, and of the various objects which he has begged or extorted from the masters of vessels anchoring here. These are covered with dead brushwood, and are narrowly watched by his slaves. He seldom stays long in any place, but goes from settlement to settlement, often in the night, to avoid any design against his life from his foes on the main. He came on board in the afternoon on one of his pillaging visits, and after talking largely, dropped into his begging tone. Finding me proof against threats and entreaties, as a last resource to obtain a present, he proposed to me to go on shore to see a young girl. Notwithstanding the many bad qualities of this old man, his blustering, meanness, and unscrupulous treachery, he possesses some points of character worthy of a chief amongst savages. He is full of resources in emergencies, hardy in his enterprises, and indefatigable in the execution of them. He has tried to coax Nayti to give him everything he brought from England; and even seized a gun I had given the former, and would have carried it off, had I not accidentally met him on the deck and shamed him into restoring it. When our boat was upset, it was supposed that Nayti was in it; upon which he, with instant readiness, claimed his chest and all belonging to him; and was, I feel sure, chagrined at hearing that his kinsman was safe.

Making every allowance for his condition, and knowing how his intercourse with the refuse of European society has affected him, it is impossible for the most charitable to have any feelings towards this old fellow but those of aversion. It will be a most fortunate thing for any settlement formed hereabouts when he dies; for with his life only will end his mischievous scheming and insatiable cupidity.

VISIT TO THE NGATIAWA TRIBE.

Sunday, 27th October. – The weather, for the first time during ten days, allowed a boat to cross over to the main. I went to Waikanai; taking with me Ebattu, the son of Toroa, the two principal chiefs of that place and of Queen Charlotte's Sound. On landing, we were greeted by the acclamations of the numbers assembled at the place in expectation of a second attack from the Gnatirocowas. As soon as it was known that I had come to talk about the land, a rush was made for the usual place of meeting on public occasions; and in a few minutes a large arena was entirely covered with people, seated in their peculiar posture in perfect silence, anxious to hear the speeches of the elders. A place was made for me on the side of the canoe; and during the discussion all eyes were fixed on me, as if to read in my countenance the effect of the eloquence of the orators. Ebattu introduced me as a good man, who liked the natives, and who would bring a great many white people to live amongst his tribe, and an English Missionary to teach them. A low murmur of approbation ran through the assembly at the conclusion of his speech. Some of the elder chiefs then addressed us, and coincided in granting me all their lands upon condition of receiving arms and ammunition to enable them to defend themselves and people from their enemies. They declined blankets, clothing, and tobacco; nothing was wanted but implements of war. Through an interpreter I asked them how they, professing peace and Missionary customs, thought of nothing but fighting: and they answered, that though they would not allow their potatoes to be peeled on a Sunday, and prayed in the chapel three times a day, they were now obliged to be armed and to fight in defence of their houses and children; and they persisted in their demand of arms.

After visiting their village, which is the largest we have seen, and tolerably fortified, and seen their wounded, I persuaded three of the chiefs to accompany me on board to see Raupero, with a view of putting an end to their quarrel with the Gnatirocowas. On approaching the ship, they evinced the greatest fear, declaring that Raupero would take their heads. Soon after being on board I sent for Raupero and his fighting general Rangiaiata, who had

DEPARTURE OF NAYTI.

arrived from Mana. When these came on deck, and saw the three Ngatiawa chiefs sitting down with their faces half hidden in their mats, they betrayed great surprise, and made their customary warlike grimaces. Then, from, I conclude, remembering that the ship was no place to show any hostile demonstrations, they advanced to them, and rubbed noses with them in succession. A few other usual mournful salutations followed; when Raupero made them a long speech, asking them, "Why they hid their faces? was he not their friend, and glad to see them?" Many speeches on both sides succeeded; all in the spirit of peace. In those of the Ngatiawas was introduced an improvized recitative, harmoniously and gracefully uttered, and expressive of feelings of good-will and friendship. One of these finished with a satirical allusion to the habits of the Kafia residents at Kapiti, to the effect that, if left to themselves, the Gnatiawas would stand and look on at the former drinking their strong waters.

On the whole, the meeting had the effect intended; many disputes amongst the natives originating in misrepresentations of third parties, and ceasing so soon as they have spoken of their grievances face to face; and but for my knowledge of Raupero's duplicity, I should think that he would use his influence to put a stop to further hostilities. After the reconciliation, came lengthy details of the late fight, in which the most trivial incidents were mentioned, and lasted till sunset. In all descriptions by the natives these petty details are introduced; particularly in their accounts of journeys, in which they will relate with great earnestness where they halted to cook, or on what tree they killed a bird.

Nayti came to me in the afternoon, and begged permission to visit his father at Mana; our voyage to that place having been rendered unnecessary by the arrival of Rangiaiata. He proposes to stay with his relations till the emigrant-ships arrive, when he will join his friends who may settle at Port Nicholson. I had little to oppose to his request. Of late he has been worse than useless as an interpreter, having led me into error several times; but I requested him to stay on board, as a friend of the party

DEPARTURE OF NAYTI.

with whom he had made the voyage from England; and represented to him the unhappiness he would undergo when stripped of his clothes by his friends, and deprived of the comforts to which he has been of late accustomed. He assured me, that he was very happy on board, but that he wished to see his friends; that his cousins had come for him in a large canoe, and that he would look out for the emigrant-ships. He has been induced to this step partly by his fear of Raupero and his people, who have threatened him, and partly by fear of going to the Waikato country and Kaipara, where the natives might revenge themselves upon him for some injury done to one of their tribes long ago. The expedition will rather benefit by his absence during these visits; for, as a general rule, it is unadvisable to have a native on board a ship bound to the port of a tribe unfriendly to his own.

Monday, 28th October. – Rangiata, the chief of Mana and the land on the main abreast of it, executed the deed of conveyance this morning. His signature completes the document as regards the Kafia tribe. The three chiefs of the Ngatiawas, whom I had brought from Waikanai, declined proceeding with me to Queen Charlotte's Sound, where I wished them to combine with the heads of the tribe resident there in conveying their rights to me. They pleaded, with justice, the danger to their families during their absence, from their neighbouring enemies, but deputed one of their sons to accompany me, who is empowered to act for them. In the mean time, they have promised me that they will part with no land until my return. If time had permitted, I could have concluded the bargain for their lands, although I should have hadsome difficulty in satisfying them in respect to arms, with which I am ill provided. No scruples would have deterred me from putting ever so large a quantity in their possesssion, as I feel sure that not only will they, in this case, prevent a war of aggression on the part of their enemies, but that they will be readily supplied by some party from Sydney, desiring the land, in case the owners determine to become the attacking force. The three chiefs, notwithstanding their fears of Raupero, and though saying

ARRIVAL AT MANA.

that they intended to take refuge with Hiko till the wind was fair for their return to Waikanai, on leaving the ship, landed at Raupero's island, and were received by him on the beach. I hope that this confidence in him, which I had advised, was the effect of their meeting on board, and will be the means of a permanent reconciliation.

Nayti left us this evening, in spite of my advice to him to remain on board. He was very frank and well-behaved on taking leave of us, and assured us he should be very comfortable on shore till our return. He took with him a supply of what he considered requisite, and all his clothes and presents received in England left to him by his rapacious friends. Notwithstanding his assurances, I am disposed to think that his mode of departure, though partaking of the polite habits acquired amongst Englishmen, was one of those artful deceits commonly practised by all savages resuming their original station after an intercourse with civilization.

Tuesday 29th October, Mana.
We weighed anchor at daylight, hoping to be in Queen Charlotte's Sound in the afternoon. We had nearly entered between its headlands, when a terrific north-west gale caught us, and, with the strong ebb-tide, nearly drove us on the "Two Brothers." In wearing, to stand off the shore, our fore-yard was carried away; and it was a question for a time, whether the ship, excellent as her sailing qualities are, would weather the dangerous rocks off these islands. After getting clear of them, we hove-to till the rain and mist dispersed; and finally, were obliged to run for Mana, where we brought up in the evening, not sorry to be at anchor even in this bad roadstead till the gale subsides.

Wednesday, 30th October. – On the side of Mana, facing the main, is a small amphitheatre, formed by the hills, which slope up to its wedge-shaped summit I have spoken of, and which to the sea face are precipitous. We landed, and walked over the whole island. It is in most parts a good sheep-walk, but in its small valleys there is good feeding for cattle, of which there are thirty head. There are also two draught horses belonging to the owner of the

QUARRELS OF ENGLISH PROPRIETORS.

island. The settlement is abreast of our anchorage, at the foot of the slope; and consists of the owner's house and small whaling station, and the huts of Rangiaiata and forty or fifty resident natives. Mana, however, often serves as a rendezvous for the Kafia tribe and the Gnatiawas, when on friendly terms, where they meet on neutral ground. At the late crying-feast, as many asthree thousand people met here, and during their visit were very annoying to the English settlers, by killing fifty sheep and committing other depredations.

We found here the last purchaser of the island, between whom and the late proprietor a dispute as to their rights had arisen, in consequence of our expedition having so much enhanced the value of the place as to induce the latter to wish to call off from the bargain. A resort to New Zealand law is talked of to obtain possession, and all arbitration was refused. Several other Sydney people were also here, anxious to buy land in the Strait, and were not a little discountenanced by learning that the chiefs had made over all their rights on both sides of Cook's Strait to the Company. One of them told me that we were just in time, as deeds and property for payment may be expected in every vessel from Sydney. They all, however, expressed satisfaction at the probability of a settlement being formed at Port Nicholson, where some law and order will exist, and regretted having neglected buying land in that harbour. Every day brings fresh proof of the speed of our outward voyage having frustrated the intentions formed by the New Holland speculators on receiving the news of our departure and destination, as regards this part of the islands.

Thursday, 31st October, East Bay, Queen Charlotte's Sound.
The weather having changed, and our repairs effected, we crossed the Strait this morning, and anchored in this bay instead of Ship Cove, for the convenience of being nearer to the grove at the head of the Sound, whither it was necessary to send to procure a spar for a fore-yard. I was also desirous to be near the principal settlement in the Sound, in order to conclude my treaty with the Gnatiawas, for the sale of their rights in the neighbourhood of the

VISIT TO TEAWAITI.

Strait. As soon as we entered the bay, many natives came off, who had heard of the object of our visit. I landed in Grass Cove, where Captain Furneaux's boat's crew was murdered, and walked over the island of Alapawa to Ocacurri, from whence I got a canoe to Teawaiti. The hills are extremely difficult of ascent, and incapable of other cultivation than for the growth of the vine and Indian corn. On coming in sight of Ocacurri, the chief, who accompanied us, requested us to fire off our guns; the report from which brought in answer a continued discharge of muskets until we reached the village. Here we found assembled about 200 men in a state of great excitement, and preparing to start in their canoes for Waikanai, to carry on the war against the Gnatirocowas. My companion and myself, with the Waikanai chief, had to go through the ceremony of shaking hands with every one in the settlement, ranged round the place of public meeting. After this operation, a tangi commenced in honour of the chief's arrival, and to the memory of their friends who had fallen in the late fight. So soon as we could escape, we left the village, where E Wite remained to talk about the land. At Teawaiti we found the same warlike preparations, and heard of a general muster of the tribes desirous to attack their enemies, and of the determination of one of the chiefs to land with sixty picked men on Raupero's island, for the purpose of carrying off that old chief, who had killed his father some years ago. A violent outcry for arms prevailed, and any quantity of pigs was offered in exchange.

Friday, 1st November. – I visited Ocacurri again this morning, in company with Mr. Barrett, and prevailed on the chiefs to postpone their hostile voyage until the negotiations for the sale of their land should be completed. They promised to meet me in East Bay, and to bring with them all the principal owners of the Gnatiawas; after which I returned to the ship in a whale-boat, pulled by a native crew. During the whole distance of twenty-five miles, most part of the day against a strong wind, they pulled with unceasing vigour, and equalled an European crew. We found lying in the bay a Danish whale-ship, which, on its way to Cloudy Bay in search of seamen, had

TREATY WITH THE GNATIAWAS.

followed us into the Sound. It is the first vessel of its nation which has made the voyage to the South Sea. The master, an intelligent man, has undertaken the voyage in the hope of finding a profitable employment for ships from Bremen.

Saturday, 2d November. – The chiefs owning land in the Sound, came on board, accompanied by a great crowd of inferiors. After some discussion the meeting was adjourned, and a small beach abreast of the ship appointed as the place of future assembly on the subject. Thither Mr. Barrett and myself accompanied the chiefs, when an earnest debate arose as to the disposal of their rights. It appeared that but few of those present claimed land anywhere but hereabouts, but all were willing to cede all their rights to territory wherever situated; and by their cession, a title would be acquired to the whole of the Sound, and to those places which the Kafias and Gnatiawas claim jointly, by reason of joint conquest from the original tribe. Two places would then remain to be purchased from other Gnatiawa people resident on them; the first, Waikanai and its neighbourhood; and the second, Taitap, including Wanganui, to the southward of Cape Farewell, to secure a complete title to the territory mentioned as comprised within the 38th and 43d degree of latitude.

These two spots must be left for a more leisure time, but are not likely to attract the attention of others – the first being now the seat of war, and the other lying in an out-of-the-way corner; besides belonging to the relations of my friends here, who will advise its being kept for thesame purchasers as at this place.

From the want of a single leader, as in Port Nicholson, much idle talking took place to-day, and the meeting brokeup without any decision. To-morrow two other chiefs will be summoned from higher up the Sound, to a last consultation. In the mean time, however anxious I am to go northwards, the necessity of replacing our fore-yard at present prevents the ship's departure.

The natives here, some of the ancient possessors of Taranake, are very desirous that I should become the purchaser of that district, in order that they may return to

COUNTRY ROUND EAST BAY.

their native place without fear of the Waikata tribes. They will yield all their claims on the district to the Company, but stipulate for the same reservation of land for Mr. Barrett and the children of the late Mr. Love, as for the native chiefs. These two Englishmen having lived for so many years amongst the Taranake people during the wars, and having had children born of native wives on the spot, have been long considered as belonging to the tribe. Mrs. Barrett and her children are on board, and will, it is thought, be very conducive, amongst the resident natives, to an acquisition of the territory.

Sunday, November 3d. – I went round East Bay, and landed at all the settlements with a view to see the nature of the land in any of the spots suited for the location of immigrants. I found many delightful bays eligible for small settlements. A considerable space of open flat land, of excellent quality, with a gradual slope up the hill-sides, spreads itself out at the bottom of these bays, in which is a safe anchorage in all weathers. Large potato-grounds and plots of wheat, and tarra, a sort of yam, are cultivated in these places. The native settlements are very small, and the few residents enjoy great abundance. The water literally swarms with fish. The sort in season during the summer is the baracouta, and is taken by the natives with a rod and line of a few feet in length, at the end of which is a small thick piece of wood with a crooked nail in it. The fish do not take an ordinary bait; but with this peculiar implement the natives will take many hundreds in a day, and often have many tons weight of them dried for sale. It is the best fish we have yet eaten of in this country.

I found all the settlements nearly deserted, the inhabitants having removed to an island near our ship for the convenience of assisting at the conferences respecting the land. The people from the southern entrance to the Tory Channel were assembled in one bay, occupied in prayers and singing, and talking over the transaction. In their visits upon similar occasions, the natives always put up in some cove apart from other tribes, with which they may be ever so closely allied, and bring with them their stock of provisions for the period of their absence from home.

PROGRESS OF THE NEGOTIATION.

Thus in every small bay near the ship are assembled in different parties nearly all the people of the Sound, waiting the result of the negotiations, to the number of nearly 300; but the respective tribes, five in number, included in the collective appellation of Gnatiawas, remain separate, except for the object of their meeting.

East Bay is nearly six miles in length, and almost as large as Port Nicholson. Cook's chart of the Strait lays it down with his usual accuracy. Our time has not allowed Captain Chaffers to survey the Sound, or to put Cook's chart of it on the same scale as his own of the Tory Channel, sent to you with my last packet; but the two can be easily combined, so as to complete a correct chart of the whole extent.

On returning to the ship in the evening, I found a deputation from all the tribes, which announced that they had finally determined to sell to me all their possessions and claims in both islands, in the same manner that the Kafia chiefs had done. They requested that the payment might be divided for them by me, as the want of a prominent leader amongst them might otherwise occasion disputes.

Monday, 4th November. – A few of the chiefs were on board to describe the places owned by them, and to see the goods offered in payment. The deed was drawn from their description, and was satisfactory to all; but, owing to its length, the affair could not be concluded to-day. News arrived that a vessel had arrived at Kapiti with agents from Messrs. Cooper and Levi, of Sydney, instructed to take possession of that island. It is not probable that the Kafia chiefs will allow them to perform this task, even if the many white men who have bought portions of land on it lately offered no resistance. The vessel is to proceed to the south with cattle, to be placed on land claimed by the same parties.

Tuesday, 5th November. – Bad weather prevented thenatives coming on board to-day to complete tile sale.Many points respecting European purchases of land alsorequired to be understood. No delay occurred, however,as the fore-yard was not finished. The spar out of which

PROGRESS OF THE NEGOTIATION.

the yard is made was eighty feet in height, of an equal girth. It is of the tree called the Towa, the wood of which is very tough and durable. West Bay, in this Sound, abounds in this timber.

Wednesday, 6th November. – The rain had driven home many of the chiefs, who did not return to-day. No temptation will induce a New Zealander to make a journey or go in a canoe in bad weather; and I have heard a chief say that he would walk over such a hill the next day "if the wind were fair." We buried to-day a seaman, a native of the Marquesas Islands. He had been long in a consumption. The ceremony was attended by many natives, who expressed their satisfaction with its solemnity. The Ngatiawas now bury their dead in coffins, and read prayers over the grave.

Thursday. – Torrents of rain kept everybody on board below, and prevented the arrival of the natives. We had news of Mr. Smith at Port Nicholson. He is on excellent terms with the natives, who are building seven large houses, and making other preparations for the reception of the expected settlers.

Friday, 8th November. – Soon after daylight the natives began to come on board, and by twelve o'clock more than two hundred had assembled on the deck, including all the chiefs in the Sound. A good deal of speaking took place; and the principal man, E Hawe, enumerated the places which the residents here possess or claim. With so many to satisfy, I found myself called upon to give them a second tierce of tobacco, which produced a sensation of satisfaction; after which, the chiefs and elders sent some of the crowd on shore, and the business of allotment and distribution began. Many white people having been in the habit of cutting timber on an extensive scale, it was necessary to have an understanding on the subject for the future; and one and all of the chiefs assured me that the place was now sacred for me, and that no one should establish saw-pits in the grove at the head of the Sound, or otherwise use the land or its produce except for the purpose of planting potatoes for their own consumption.

Although it was satisfactory to have so numerous a

ALTERCATION ON BOARD SHIP AMONG THE NATIVES.

meeting, and to witness the unanimity that prevailed in it respecting the disposal of the land, the scene was by no means so gratifying as that of the conclusion of the purchase of Port Nicholson. In the latter, the people were under the perfect control of one man, and were sincere in giving their land for the sake of having white people come to live amongst them. They consequently looked upon the consideration as a secondary object, and relied on their chief for a fair distribution. In this instance, no one of paramount influence was present to give the people confidence and insure satisfaction. Moreover, they were not assured that an immediate location of settlers would take place here, and having but little to look forward to, turned all their attention to obtaining the greatest amount of payment possible; and being much in the habit of dealing with white people who have abused their ignorance, looked suspiciously at the transaction, as if they imagined that an advantage was intended to be taken of them. When the allotments to the different tribes had proceeded some time, a violent dispute arose amongst one tribe, the Pukatap, which threatened to put an end to the purchase; and it was not till I had persuaded the chief of it to send away some of his people under a threat of putting all the things below and going to sea, that anything like peace was restored. More than one hundred men still remained on the deck; and as the goods might now be considered delivered to them, although I allowed the distribution of them to be made on board, I took advantage of the momentary calm to secure the signatures of the chiefs to the number of thirty. No sooner had the distribution recommenced, than a more violent altercation took place amongst the individuals of the tribe which had quarrelled with another tribe in the morning. Half of the goods had been sent on shore for some of the tribes, and the Pukatap chief was proceeding with the distribution to his followers, when some one called out to make a rush for the remainder. In a moment the most tumultuous scene we have ever witnessed took place, and a general scramble, in which many blows were exchanged, and in which the more violent, throwing off their clothes, evinced a disposition to proceed

to a serious fight. No intercession was of the least avail. The only answer received by those who attempted it was, that it was a native quarrel, and that no harm would happen to us. This scene of violence only ceased when all the goods had been appropriated; and then the principal performers in it expressed themselves much ashamed of their conduct. I understand that the tribes which had taken their goods on shore, after mustering all their friends and followers to the number of nearly three hundred, had a similar, if not more unfriendly distribution; and that the men loaded their arms, and were at one time on the point of recurring to them for a decision of the dispute. E Hawe was slightly cut in the arm in the affray.

These scenes are, I am assured, mild in comparison with those that have taken place on much smaller distributions of property, and need cause no alarm to any one witnessing them. Such a rapid change has taken place, however, in the habits of these people within these few years, that one may expect the total cessation of dissensions amongst them soon; and it must be recollected that the transaction I have had with them has been dissimilar to any in which they have been engaged. In all their small sales to white people, a chief or two has taken the payment for the small plot of ground sold, and used it as he pleased. In this purchase I have united the consent of various small tribes and numerous chiefs and proprietors; have assembled as many natives as possible in order to give publicity to the affair; and have attempted to satisfy not only the chiefs, but each individual of the tribes amongst whom I hope to see settlers located.

The affair was concluded before dark, and quietness restored in the ship. Never did ship witness such a scene of violence without bloodshed. If any one should wish to take a lesson of patience and control of temper, let him have a few dealings with a numerous collective New Zealand tribe, and he will find himself proof against any annoying occurrences which he may meet with in the transaction of business in civilized communities.

Saturday, 9th November. – I landed this morning and took possession of the land in the name of the Company.

NORTH AND SOUTH DURHAM.

The wind prevented our leaving the Bay as I had intended. I send copies of the two deeds, which make the title to all the late possessions and claims of the Kafia and Ngatiawa tribes, with a chart of the district.

To distinguish the possessions of the Company, which so greatly predominate in this extensive territory, I have called it "North and South Durham;" and I hope that "the day will come" when a British population, availing itself of the natural advantages of these two provinces, will render them worthy of their name.

Sunday, 10th November. – A north-west gale still detained us here, but with every prospect of being able to sail to-morrow. I expect to be a week at Taranake, and to acquire the large district I have spoken of; after which we shall proceed to Kaipara.

I have no letters from England, but understand that some have gone to the Bay of Islands for me; in which case it will be some time before I receive them, as the vessel conveying them was to proceed to Cloudy Bay.

Kapiti, 11th November.
Being under a promise to take back the Chief E. Wite and the Missionary who had been a witness to the late sale to Waikanai, we sailed for this place yesterday; but owing to a strong north-west wind, only reached it to-day. We found all the natives in great commotion on account of the preparations making for war on the main. The Ngatiawas muster 800 fighting men, and can be reinforced to the number of 600 more if occasion requires. Their adversaries are not so numerous, but, living all on the same spot, can easily be collected for an assault; which the former are prevented from making whilst assembled, by the missionaries, who will only fight in self-defence. Warepori and many of his people are at Waikanai, which circumstance is retarding the preparations making at Port Nicholson for the settlers.

A barque has been here from Sydney to purchase land for Messrs. Cooper and Levi. The master and agent have once more bought this island, as well as some land at Waimea, on the main. Probably exceeding his instructions, he professed himself ready to buy any land to pre-

DETENTION AT KAPITI.

vent the Tory from obtaining it; and in this spirit has contracted for the Oyerri river under a promise of giving a small schooner for it, although every one here informed him that the chiefs had made over all their rights to me a few days before. The vessel is gone to the south on a similar errand.

Tuesday, 12th November. – A calm prevented our sailing. Warepori paid us a visit. He is extremely unsettled by the warlike state of things, and could scarcely talk of the prospect of the arrival of settlers at Port Nicholson; saying that he should probably be killed in the approaching fight.

The Rev. W. Williams, of the Bay of Islands, is on his way here to form an establishment on the main. His horses have arrived, and some people hope that his presence may prevent the encounter amongst the natives; but from what I have seen of these people, and know of their revengeful feelings, I have no idea that anything but a great slaughter on one side or the other will satisfy them. For some years it will be necessary for any settlers in Cook's Strait to be in numbers sufficient to protect themselves, and to form a militia, to avoid the outrages to which the caprice or anger of a few chiefs might subject them.

Wednesday, 13th November. – The unusual calm continued and kept us here. Warepori had an interview with Raupero. The two chiefs met in their canoes near Kapiti. The former inquired whether the Ngatirocowas, from a visit to whom, at Otaki, Raupero was returning, intended to pursue the war; and Raupero, with his usual cunning, replied that he had dissuaded them from so doing – that he was tired of wars, meant to go to live at Wairao, out of the way of them, and made Warepori a present of Kapiti. Considering how many times he has sold all his interests in the island, the gift cannot be considered worth much.

Saturday, 16th November. – Notwithstanding my anxiety to leave this place, no chance has offered of effecting my object. We have repeatedly hove short, and made ready for sea, and as often have been disappointed by the wind failing.

THE KNOWSLEY RIVER.

Not to be entirely idle, I got off from Wakenai three chiefs of Wanganui, or Knowsley River, who are here with about 200 men, to assist the Ngatiawas, with whom they are in alliance, in their war. With these chiefs I negotiated the purchase of all their district from Manawatu to Patea. It is impossible to complete the bargain except on the spot with the numerous tribe, living there; but, having obtained the signatures of two chiefs to a deed, a third, who is supposed to be the most influential man in the tribe, was deputed to accompany me, and to receive the remainder of the payment amongst their people.

The Knowsley River has been repeatedly spoken of in England as a place likely to become of great importance from its being a river harbour communicating with the fertile plains in the interior of the North Island; and, although pressed for time, I resolved to devote a day or two to ascertain its value, and that of the neighbouring country. In the evidence taken by the Association in 1837, the river is stated to have a dangerous entrance, and its navigation prevented by a fall near its mouth. The natives are also stated to be very savage and to speak an almost different language from that of the other tribes. From the most correct information I can obtain, I have ascertained that canoes have been ten days' voyage up the river without its being necessary to track them over any falls (which is, however, an uncertain mode of calculation of distances); that it runs from the volcanic mountain Ruapeha, passing another high mountain, Tongarido, which is proved by the vast quantity of pumice-stone which comes down its course, and being washed into the Strait, is found on every beach; and that its source is separated by this range of mountains, and at no great distance from the Waikato river and district. No vessel has ever been known to enter it.

Monday, 18th November. – At length a light southerly wind enabled us to leave Kapiti; and running along the coast to the northward, we passed successively Waimea, which is the next district to Waikanai, the stream at which place is nearly dried up, its main branch having diverted itself into the Waikanai river, which, however, scarcely

admits a boat at high water. Otaki, and Manawatu, are both rivers also incapable of access to any craft.

Tuesday, 19th November. – At daylight this morning we found ourselves considerably to the northward of Wanganui, having stood off shore during the night; but the weather being fine, and a north-east wind blowing off the land, rendering the approach safe, we stood in down the land in search of the river. The natives on board never having seen the land from a ship, or at a greater distance than the edge of the surf in their canoes, continually misled us as to its situation, so that it was not till near night that we arrived off its mouth. We stood off again for the night, under easy sail; and on

Wednesday, 20th November, found ourselves abreast of the object of our search. Yesterday, in standing down the coast, we found the water suddenly shoal, at a mile distant from a point of land, to four fathoms. As the ship draws fifteen feet, it was, therefore, advisable to keep an offing. We stood off and on at two miles from the shore, in ten, and sometimes seven fathoms' water; and Mr.Barrett proceeded in a boat to sound at the entrance of the river, whilst we took a view of the neighbouring country from the mast-head. The mouth of the river lies in latitude 40 deg. 7 min., or thereabouts, and is open to the south-west. Its low headlands are about half-a-mile apart; but from the southern point a spit runs out above water, forming a breakwater nearly half way across the distance. The channel is consequently under the northern bank, and a bar, on which at low tide the water breaks, continues across it from the spit. Inside the bar, the river opens, and presents, behind the spit, a considerable space of smooth water, which continues for about two miles, where the course turns to the eastward, and was lost to our view. Mr. Barrett, who is an old sailor, found 2 1/2 fathoms on the bar as he went in, and three, four, and five fathoms inside. He went up the river about a mile, and landed the chief I had brought with me amongst some of his people, who had come from Hirpah, which is situated six miles higher up the banks. The natives, who have never been on board a ship, were much alarmed at

our appearance, conceiving that we might be bound on a similar visit to that of the Alligator in 1835.

Indications of a gale appearing, our pilot returned to the ship immediately, and only just in time. On re-crossing the bar, he found only two fathoms' water, which was beginning to break. The tide was then at half-ebb, and had fallen about five feet perpendicular. The soundings on the bar, at high-water, may be taken at near three fathoms. Some appearances of occasional heavy freshes presented themselves near the heads, in drift timber, &c. By the time our pilot arrived on board, it was blowing hard, and in less than ten minutes afterwards, we were glad to beat off the coast, under close-reefed topsails, in a fiery north-west gale.

The principal object of my visit was thus frustrated for the moment; and time will not allow me to return to Wanganui, which I consider a place of great importance. It is certainly capable of admitting good-sized craft with the flood-tide, and may hereafter, by means of steam-boats, become the outlet of the produce of an immense district, if not of the whole extent of the Northern Island. The inhabitants are not less civilized than the other tribes in these parts; and lately having received native missionaries amongst them from Kafia and Waikato, are decidedly more advanced that their neighbours to the southward, the Ngatirocowas, who refuse all missionary interference. The dialect of Wanganui is peculiar, and is the subject of merriment to the Ngatiawas, as that of a Yorkshireman is to a Londoner. Yesterday, in our search for Wanganui, we passed off the mouths of two other small rivers to the northward of it, viz., Wastatera and Patea, both of which will admit boats at high-water. Thus, I am able to speak, from my own knowledge, of this coast to within thirty miles of Waimate, where the Alligator landed a party of marines for the rescue of Mrs. Guard, in 1835. Part of the journal of an officer on board that ship, quoted in the Present State of New Zealand, furnishes a description of the remainder of the coast from Waimate, round Cape Egmont, to the Sugar Loaf Islands, our present destination. There is no appearance of the horse-shoe-shaped bay laid

MOUNT EGMONT.

down in some of the charts as Taranake Bay; and from the information of Mr. Barrett and the natives, who walked the whole length of this coast in their migration from Taranake, the land forms a semicircular bay from Otaki, which is fifteen miles to the northward of Kapiti, to Cape Egmont. This lee-shore, from the prevalence and violence of the south-west and north-west winds, is dangerous ground. A vessel embayed during one of these gales would have difficulty to get off the coast; and as the sea breaks at two miles off the shore, anchoring is nearly out of the question. The soundings are very shallow along the whole coast. At nearly twenty miles at sea, we found only seventeen fathoms off Cape Egmont. Several small vessels have been driven ashore in the bight and knocked to pieces.

The land near the sea continues low from Waikanai to Wanganui; after which a cliff, which gradually heightens as you approach the cape, but on the top of which the land is perfectly level over an immense district, bounds the beach. The face of this flat land presents a pleasing prospect after the long-continued sight of the mountains in all the other parts of the Strait; and the soil, according to all counts, is fertile.

Thursday, November 21st. – In twenty-four hours the gale abated, and we found ourselves in the middle of the Strait, with a prospect of a long passage round Cape Egmont. Vessels are sometimes weeks before they can leave the Strait during north-west winds.

Friday, November 22d. – This morning found us within sight of and at a distance of fifty miles from Mount Egmont; which presented a grand and venerable appearance.

The perpetual snow commences at about two-thirds up the mountain, which would give its height 9,000 feet. It is called in the charts 14,000 feet high; but a trigonometrical measurement by a German professor, who was here in a Russian man-of-war, makes it 7,000 feet. No appearance of volcanic action in the mountain has of late been noticed, or is remembered by the natives. Tongarido also came visible in the course of the day. It seems at 70 miles' distance equal in size and height to Mount Egmont.

POPULATION OF COOK'S STRAITS.

native tradition describes these mountains and Ruapeho as once close together, but that a quarrel taking place amongst them, the two sisters, Tongarido and Ruapeho, in a pet, removed themselves to a distance.

Having now traversed Cook's Strait in every direction, and seen its coasts from Cape Farewell to Cape Campbell on one side, and from Cape Palliser to Cape Egmont on the other, and visited its principal harbours, besides learning the qualities of all, I shall conclude my observations on this part of the country with a table of population in the two provinces, which I have drawn out from evidence collected on the spot, and upon which I can rely. It is the only attempt at an estimate of the population of these parts which I know of.

Going about as I have done, amongst the different tribes on equally friendly terms with all, and exciting no jealousies by exclusive communication with any particular one, I have been able to learn more, and more exactly, than those who have resided under the protection of one tribe.

I have refrained hitherto, however, from stating any result of my observations on the customs and habits of the inhabitants of these islands, from a feeling that conclusions on the subject arrived at hastily, and with the few opportunities our party, ignorant of the language, has had in our hurried visits to different ports, in a ship always under sailing-orders, must be liable to error from a deficiency of premises; particularly when we consider that the native informants vary from each other and in their own statements, and that it is only by dint of reiterated comparisons that the truth on any subject can be gained from them. Moreover, any information I could now give on the meagre subject of the mode of life of these people, would add but little to the science of ethnography, and would be but a mere repetition of the substance of many published works, which has been admirably collated in the volume of Entertaining Knowledge, The New Zealanders, and in the Present State of New Zealand, published by the Association in 1837.

I promise myself, however, to give you the amount of my observation in greater maturity at a future time, than I could now do, on the peculiarities of these people.

POPULATION TABLE.

Table of the Population of the Provinces of North and South Durham, and of the Islands of Kapiti and Mana, Cook's Strait.

Name of Place of Residence.
Collective Name of Tribe.
Special Name of Tribe.
Number.

Wanganni, near Cape Farewell
Ngatiawa
Ngatiawa Proper
90

Taitap, Blind Bay
Ngatiawa
Kafia
Pukatap
Ngatitama
Ngatiawa Proper
Ngatirarua
250

Rangitoto, D'Urville's Island
Kafia
Kafia
50

Admiralty Isles, and Oyerri River
Kafia
Kafia
Rangitani, Slaves
200

Queen Charlotte's Sound and Tory Channel
Ngatiawa
Manacuri
Pukatap
Ngatimatiu
Tanawa
1200

Cloudy Bay
Kafia
Ngatirarua
250

Port Nicholson
Ngatiawa
Ateranui
Taranake
Ngamutu
Amoa
Ngatitama
Ngatitawidicura
Ateranui
Taranake
500

Ohario, Cape Terrawitte
Ngatiawa
Ngatitama
40

Makarotawidi
Ngatiawa
Ngatitama
50

Titai
Ngatiawa
Ngatitama
60

Pererua
Kafia
Kafia
60

Waikanai
Ngatiawa
Ngatiawa Proper
400

Otaki
Ngatirocowa
Ngatirocowa
1000

Manawetu
Kafia
Panahida
100

Wanganui, or Knowsley River.
Wanganui
Wanganui
1500

Waitotera
None
None

Patea
Ngatiawa
Waitotera
200

Waimate Rangitoapeki
Ateranui
Ateranui
209

Otamatua
Taranake
Taranake
150

Moturoa Island & Taranake
Ngatiawa
Ngamuta
50

Maunkuri River
None
None

Mokou
Ngatiawa
Ngatiawa Proper
150

6500

Kapiti
Kafia
Kafia
Ngatirarua
120

Mana
Kafia
Kafia
30

Total
6650

SUGAR LOAF ISLANDS.

Sugar Loaf Islands, Wednesday, November 27th.

At length, after a tedious voyage of nine days from Kapiti, being only 130 miles off, having experienced much bad weather and three gales of wind, we anchored this morning in nine fathoms water, at two miles from the land to the north of these islands. The gale had left a heavy swell, which caused a great surf on the beach so as to prevent a boat landing. Mr. Barrett, with Taurau and Ewarre, whom you will recollect I brought from Port Nicholson, went near the land in a boat, and succeeded, after some time, in making themselves recognised by the inhabitants. Two chiefs swam off to the boat through the surf and came on board the ship. This specimen of communication with the shore will give a bad opinion of the place as regards its roadstead, and I can say nothing to remove or palliate it. It is completely open to the north-west, and never accessible but after a long calm or south-east wind, both of which are rare events. Ships, moreover, would have difficulty in going to sea if a gale came on suddenly.

No talking on the part of the natives took place in the boat; surprise at seeing their old friends, and the nationa lcustom, preventing any demonstrations of feeling; but after coming on board, an affecting scene took place, in which one of the new comers described the wretched existence that he and his companions had led since the mass of their tribes had migrated to Cook's Strait, six years ago. Continual war had been carried on against them by the Waikato people; and nothing but the refuge afforded by the Sugar-loaf peaks had preserved the small remnant, not amounting to more than fifty, who still held their ground, with occasional assistance from their Southern neighbours. They expressed great anxiety respecting their future fate; hoped their enemies, being now Missionaries, would no longer persecute them; but declared their determination not to remove from, but to die on the land of their grandsires.

Mr. Williams had been here a fortnight ago, and had left at Otamatua, where the original Taranake people live, many missionary books and some instructors.

The country to the south of Mount Egmont, after

COUNTRY SOUTH OF MOUNT EGMONT.

doubling the Cape, appears extremely valuable: an immense table-land extends as far as the eye can reach, no part of which is free from vegetation. The finest flax grows nearly to the sea-side. Immediately at the base of the mountains towards the sea, many volcanic appearances present themselves in the confused assemblage of hillocks, the nature of the rocks, and the black sand surrounding them. The mountain commences at about twenty miles from the coast, and slopes down gradually to the north for at least forty miles. Within this slope and the sea is a fertile undulating plain, covered with small timber and abundant vegetation. It is belted by a narrow ridge of sand-hummocks; and in its fertility and general appearance strongly reminds one of French Flanders, to which its dangerous and inconvenient coast further assimilates it.

Thursday, November 28th. – It being impossible to collect the chiefs, whose consent is requisite for the transfer of the land from Manawetu to Mokou, under at least a week, and having been detained so much by baffling winds, I determined not to remain longer here, but to leave Mr.Barrett, who would be an efficient agent in the transaction, from his intimate knowledge of the territory I am desirous to acquire, from his personal influence with the chiefs, and from the acknowledged claims he has by his marriage and the birth of his children on the land. He accordingly landed this morning with his wife and children, with instructions to assemble the numerous chiefs resident on a coast-line of 150 miles, in a month's time, when I am to return to make the payment for the different districts, and receive the written assent of the chiefs to the sale.

Notwithstanding the qualities of the soil of the Taranake district, which are allowed to be superior to those of any land in these islands, such is the difficulty of communicating with it by water, that I do not see any probability of settlers being placed there for some years. Looking, however, to the future, and to the interests of the Company's future representatives, and hoping that by the unconquerable energies of British inhabitants, this country will shortly assume a different aspect as regards its interior communications, – sanguinely hoping even to see commenced such an under-

VOYAGE TO HOKIANGA.

taking as the construction of a road from this district and that of all the valuable land to the northward, to Port Nicholson, a distance not more than 156 miles, in which, however, many obstacles in the mountain ranges occur, – -I cannot but be anxious to secure this fine territory. The many conflicting interests and division of the occupants, whose numbers and places of residence you will find in the table, would render it almost impossible for any individual, without shipping and large means at his disposal, to acquire this portion of country; and the agent I have employed is, from his connexion with the natives, perhaps the only man who could negotiate the bargain. I have every hope that on my return here the completion of it will be effected.

Dr. Dieffenbach, the naturalist, also remained on shore here, with the view of ascending Mount Egmont, and of examining the country in the neighbourhood. As it could seldom happen that a man of science should have the opportunity of being put down here, with a family who could protect him, in what has hitherto been considered, with reason, the wildest part of New Zealand; with time to examine the most important district, as regards geology and mineralogy, in these islands, and to be taken off again when he had achieved his object, I strongly recommended him to stay here in preference to proceeding to Kaipara, which has been visited by many naturalists, and presents nothing so worthy of the examination of the learned. We got under weigh so soon as the party had landed, and with a fair wind stood to the northward.

Hokianga, Monday, December 2nd.
Contrary winds, which seemed to pursue us since quitting Kapiti, kept us at sea till to-day. Finding, on looking over Mr. Macdonnell's memoranda, that all the chief parties to the treaty respecting the land at Kaipara reside in the Hokianga or the Bay of Islands, and that nothing could be done without them in enforcing the claim, I decided on going first to Hokianga. We found the bar by no means so formidable as usually represented, and the pilot-arrangements as described in the books. The least

VISIT FROM THE BARON DE THIERRY.

water we found on the bar at high water was 3 3/4 fathoms, and there was no break when we crossed it. It must, however, not be disguised that vessels have been detained at the heads for a fortnight, without being able to pass the bar outwards, and that many are obliged to keep to sea several days before they can enter the river. The largest vessel ever in here drew nineteen feet water. We ran up the river, which is easy of navigation, twenty-six miles, and anchored in the usual place for ships that come here to take in timber. On our way up we passed Herd's Point, which is a small tract of land on the left bank of the river, and well suited for the site of a town. Behind it is a district of five or six miles, reaching up to a ridge of mountains. Exactly opposite to the Point is the Motukaraka estate and river, belonging to the Company, and having a frontage of many miles to the river Hokianga. Four miles beyond the anchorage is the Hourake estate, which embraces three miles of frontage by five miles in depth, and a valuable plain agricultural district on the top of some gently-sloping hills. At the Hourake is Mr. Macdonnell's establishment, on which a great outlay has been made. It presents a most cheering sight after the whaling-stations to the southward. The cowrie spars and logs lie about here in profusion. They are the staple produce of the place, and nothing in the way of timber can exceed their beauty. Many of them are one hundred feet long and thirty inches square, of equal size the whole length. The Wesleyan missionary station at Mungungu has a small establishment, containing some poor farm-buildings and a printing-office. The Missionaries possess but little land here, and, unlike the Church Missionaries, are not anxious to extend their possessions. Mr. White, the late principal of the Wesleyans here, is the largest proprietor of land in the Hokianga, and perhaps in New Zealand. Since arriving here last year he has been constantly purchasing land here, at Kaipara, and at Manuka.

Friday, 3rd December. – Whilst visiting parts of the river to-day, the Baron de Thierry called on board. His claims hereabout are very extensive, and from all I can collect, not without foundation. He commissioned Mr.

FOREIGN SETTLERS.

Kendall, of the Church Mission, some years ago, to purchase land for him here, and gave him 700l. for the purpose of paying for it. Mr. Kendall acquired an immense district between this place and the Bay of Islands, but only paid the natives thirty-six axes for it. The deeds, however, were regularly executed by the chiefs, who were at that time satisfied with the consideration received. As land, however, became of value, they have been induced to resell portions to other Europeans, and now say that the axes were only a present made to them by Mr. Kendall. The Baron is consequently in dispute with all the proprietors on this district, and talks of waiting the arrival of a French man-of-war to eject the trespassers.

A French bishop has purchased land, and formed an establishment half-way up the river. He has a few proselytes, who prefer his form of worship to that of the Wesleyans. A Belgian naturalist has also an extensive property near the heads of the river.

Wednesday, 4th December. – Our party dined to-day at the Missionary station. The principal, Mr. Bumby, a liberal-minded, sensible, and legitimate Missionary, receives his countrymen visiting the river with great hospitality. He is desirous to plant Missionaries in various places on the west coast, which the Church Mission have yielded to the Wesleyans, whilst they take the eastern shores of these islands. With this view, Mr. Bumby has lately made an excursion over all his district, with the exception of Taranake and Wangania, and has visited the interior ofthe country at Kafia, where he has left a Missionary establishment. He also visited Port Nicholson just before I was there, and conceived that he had secured the land at Thorndon, till I informed him that the chiefs had disregarded the verbal taboo he had made, and sold the entire place to the Company.

Thursday, December 5th. – Great pains are requisite to ascertain the real proprietors or claimants of land hereabouts. After ascertaining those who formerly claimed and sold Herd's Point, and the parties to the Kaipara treaty, I despatched messengers to-day to the Bay of Islands to bring over some of the Napuhi chiefs. The

NATIVES OF THE NORTHERN ISLAND.

journey to the Bay of Islands is performed in two days on foot, and a good road might be made across the island here without much trouble. Nearly the whole district, which is very valuable in an agricultural view, is owned by members of the Church Mission, which has a large farming establishment at Waimate, half-way across the island. They own also immense districts on the Thames.

Friday, December 6th. – The contrast between the natives here and those in Cook's Strait is most striking. In person, our friends to the South are far superior as to height and appearance. Unaccustomed to the luxuries introduced here by the European ships and the traders of the Bay of Islands, the tribes of the southward eagerly bring the produce of their labour to strangers visiting them, and are satisfied with small profits. The natives here never come to a ship to trade, and will not, without great persuasion and high prices, supply those who send to them for provisions. Independently of this acquired indifference to trade on the part of those who possess anything, there is a great scarcity of all commodities for the table, in consequence of the neglect of cultivation of land by the natives, who acquire larger profits by cutting down and dragging timber, and of white people who own land, having turned away the original possessors from the spots that were used to raise potatoes and corn. No vessel can depend on finding supplies here, except from the white people and at English prices.

The river has been represented as abounding in fish, which is not the case. Our net has not supplied our table, and the natives will not condescend to angle, which they might do near the heads of the river with advantage.

The land throughout the river is of a sandy clay, which, when not covered with trees, presents a dry and barren appearance; and the banks are a collection of mud and mangroves, which in most places prevent a landing. The soil is certainly not to be compared with the alluvial land in the valleys in the south; but it is productive beyond any idea that its appearance would lead one to form; and, favoured as it is by a most genial climate, yields abundant crops. The vine flourishes in the worst parts of it. The

INFERIORITY OF THE NORTHERN TO THE SOUTHERN ISLAND.

cowrie, however, is the principal and most important produce of the hills here; which do not offer a field for British husbandry by any means so inviting as the plains of Taranake, which all the natives agree in calling the garden of New Zealand. The whole country as far as south of Kafia is of the same description as hereabouts. Except for timber, therefore, and for facilities of water-carriage and exportation, I do not think that this part of the country can be compared with the possessions of the Company on the southern part of the island; and, if a communication shall be found between Taranake and Port Nicholson, which is a much finer harbour than any on this coast, – or even if Knowsley River be found available, of which I have sanguine hopes, the Company will have no cause to regret the previous occupation of the land hereabouts by Missionary and other owners.

The want of the small vessel I expected is now severely felt by me. It prevents my examining the Waikato and Kafia harbours, and forestalling the numerous speculators who are arriving every day from New Holland. Should it become advisable at a future time for the Company to possess these harbours, it will be effected at a much larger cost than at the present moment.

Wednesday, December 11th. – Whilst waiting for the chiefs from the Bay of Islands, I have examined the principal portions of this river, and can see no spot at all adapted for the situation of a large town. The shoalness of the water, the numerous mud-flats and banks, and the rapidity of the tide, present everywhere obstacles and inconvenience for shipping; whilst the numerous creeks and mangrove-swamps, intersecting fine districts and breaking the face of the country, offer no less impediments to the settler. The bar at the entrance also must not be forgotten amongst the disadvantages of this river.

Having assembled the chiefs, I went to-day with the three principal ones to take possession of Herd's Point and the Motukaraka property. Not being provided with the deeds of the former purchase, I was obliged to rely on the chiefs for a description of the boundaries, which I went over with them. It has always been supposed that this

purchase extended over a large district up to the range of hills; but of late the chiefs have sold all but the Point, which is about a mile square, to Mr. White and others. Their right to do so must be decided by the wording of the deed. The point they gave me possession of contains good land, and is a good situation; but its size of course offers no inducement to form a township on it, neither does the opposite land, when examined, present a much more flattering prospect.

Friday, December 13th. – The chiefs arrived from the Bay of Islands to-day, and we wait for a fair wind to cross the bar and proceed to Kaipara. I have purchased of Mrs. Blenkinsopp, the widow of Captain Blenkinsopp, whom I have mentioned as having bought the Wairoa and other Property in Cloudy Bay, all her rights and claims to the same. This completes the Company's title to that part of the Southern Island; and is of importance as the finest strict thereabouts and connected with Kaikora or the Lookers-on, which has been represented as a harbour.
I have the honour to be, Sir,
Your most obedient servant,
W. WAKEFIELD.

To John Ward, Esq., Secretary of the
New Zealand Company, &c.

No. VII. FIRST REPORT OF THE DIRECTORS OF THE NEW ZEALAND COMPANY

PORT NICHOLSON, NEW ZEALAND.

Just Published,

A CHART OF PORT NICHOLSON,
(ONE LARGE SHEET,)
SURVEYED BY MR. E. M. CHAFFERS, R.N.
PRICE ONE SHILLING AND SIXPENCE.

Published, by permission of the New Zealand Company,

By JAMES WYLD, Geographer to the Queen,
Charing Cross East, London.

No. VII.

THE
FIRST REPORT
OF THE
DIRECTORS
OF THE
NEW ZEALAND COMPANY,

PRESENTED TO
THE FIRST GENERAL MEETING
OF
THE SHAREHOLDERS,
MAY 14TH, 1840.

At the First General Meeting of the Shareholders of the NEW ZEALAND COMPANY, held at their House, in Broad Street Buildings, on Thursday, the 14th of May, 1840: –

JOSEPH SOMES, ESQ., (DEPUTY-GOVERNOR,) in the Chair –
Moved by JEREMIAH PILCHER, Esq. – Seconded by EDWIN BRYANT, Esq.

Resolved: – -

I. That the Report now read be adopted, and printed for the use of the Proprietors; and that the thanks of this Meeting be offered to the Governor, Deputy-Governor, and Directors, for their attention to the interests of the Company, and their management of its affairs up to the present time.

Moved by EDMUND HALSWELL, Esq. – Seconded by JOHN HEATH, Esq.

Resolved: –

II. That the Deed now submitted to the Meeting (comprising the names of the Directors and Auditors this day chosen) be adopted as the Deed of Settlement of the Company.

No. VII.

FIRST REPORT
From the Directors to the Shareholders of the New Zealand Company,

1. Your Directors consider the time to be arrived whenis their duty to present to you a Report of the progress and prospects of the important undertaking which you have confided to their charge. Although a year has scarcely elapsed since the operations of the Company commenced, yet the magnitude of those operations, and the success which has attended them, appear to be sufficient reasons for inviting your attendance at an earlier period, than that at which the shareholders of companies are usually for the first time assembled.

2. The plantation of a British colony in New Zealand is an object for the attainment of which numerous plans and projects have at various times been formed, but which it was reserved for you to carry into actual effect. The present Company is the result of the union of three distinct associations previously existing with similar views. To these united interests have been added the subscriptions of a new body of proprietors, whereby the Company has not only acquired a capital more than ample for the prosecution of its objects, but stands without a rival in the field of its enterprise, or in the favourable opinion of the public.

3. Of the three associations now merged in this Company, the earliest was the New Zealand Company of 1825. This co-partnership comprised names of high respectability; and its head was your first noble Governor, the earl of Durham. It despatched two vessels to New Zealand, at

THE FIRST REPORT OF THE DIRECTORS.

an expense exceeding 20,000l., – obtained the promise of a charter from the government of King George the Fourth, and acquired tracts of land, among other places, at Herd's Point, on the Hokianga, at Manukau, in the Islands of Waikeke and Paroa, and on the borders of the Thames. The Company was prevented by adverse circumstances from forminga settlement, but its lands were set apart, and have been respected by the natives up to the present day. A contract has been entered into, whereby these lands are to be forthwith conveyed to the present Company 1, and several of the most influential members of the old body now appear in the list of your Directors.

4. To the labours of the New Zealand Association of 1837, you are materially indebted for having directed the public mind towards the scene of your operations, and pointing out the peculiar advantages offered by New Zealand as an emigration-field. The aim of that society was to induce the legislature to apply to New Zealand the South-Australian principle of colonization, and at the same time to make provision for guarding the native inhabitants from the evils to which irregular intercourse with Europeans had long exposed them. After protracted negotiations, Her Majesty's government offered to the associationa Royal Charter, upon condition that it should form itself into a joint-stock company. "Colonization," said the Secretary of State, "to no small extent is effected in these islands. The only question, therefore, is between a colonization, desultory, without law, and fatal to the natives, and a colonization organized and salutary. Her Majesty's government are therefore disposed to entertain the proposal of establishing such a colony. They are willing to consent to the incorporation, by Royal Charter, of various persons, to whom the settlement and government of the projected colony should for some short term of years be confided. The charter would be framed with reference to the precedents of the colonies established in North America, by Great Britain, in the sixteenth and

seventeenth centuries 2 ." The conditions required being at variance with the declared character of the association, which had expressly excluded from its objects all commercial speculations, its members had no alternative but to decline the charter, however desirable in other respects. The association determined to persevere in its original design. At its instance the Earl of Devon, early in the session of 1838, moved for and obtained a select committee of the House of Lords to inquire into the state of the islands of New Zealand, which collected and published a mass of authentic and important information relating to the country and its inhabitants, and proving the urgent need of systematic colonization. The Lords' Committee, however, expressed no opinion on the main question at issue, but resolved "that the extension of the British Colonies was a question belonging exclusively to the "Crown." The association, however, was not discouraged from proceeding with the bill which it had prepared, entitled, "A Bill for the provisional government of British settlements in the islands of New Zealand." This measure proposed to appoint commissioners under the crown, to treat with and purchase land from the natives, and, upon cession of sovereignty, to convert the lands into British territory, to be governed by British law: making, however, exceptional regulations, in favour of the natives, to protect them from their own ignorance and to promote their moral and social improvement. It proposed also to exercise legal authority over all lawless British subjects, in all parts of the islands. The colonial government was to afford an adequate provision for religious worship of every denomination, and a bishop of the established church was to be appointed by the Crown to reside in New Zealand. This bill was introduced by the Chairman of the association, (the Hon. Francis Baring), and on the second reading was defeated by means of the opposition of Her Majesty's Ministers, although it was ably supported by several influential and independent members on both sides of the house. The rejection of the bill caused great disappointment not

only to its immediate promoters, but to the many enlightened persons who promote colonization generally, on public grounds.

5. On the dissolution of the association, some of its members formed a plan, according to the suggestion of Her Majesty's Government, for the prosecution of its leading objects, by means of a joint-stock company. On the 29th August, 1838, a private co-partnership was established under the name of the New Zealand Colonization Company, which gradually increased in strength, until, in the spring of the year 1839, it had raised funds sufficient to purchase an extensive territory in New Zealand, (principally surrounding the harbours of Hokianga and Kaipara in the northern island), and to fit out a preliminary expedition for surveying the coasts, making further purchases and preparing for the early arrival of a body of settlers. The parties by whom these objects had been effected, agreed to transfer their interests to a more extended company in consideration of receiving in such new company an equivalent amount of stock, to be determined by arbitration 3 : and they have accordingly assigned the whole of their property, rights, and interests, of every description, to the present proprietary. On the 2nd of May, 1839, the co-partnership called the "New Zealand Colonization Company," ceased to exist, and the first prospectus of the "New Zealand Company," called for a time the "New Zealand Land Company," was issued to the public.

6. Your Directors, although they at first contemplated raising a larger sum, determined, after some deliberation, to fix the amount of the Company's capital at 100,000l., in 4,000 shares of 25l. each. The whole of this capital having been subscribed, your Directors consider the amount to be amply sufficient for the Company's operations.

7. The views with which the preliminary expedition was despatched, both as regards the acquirement of territory for colonization, and the treatment of the native race, are fully developed in the first instructions given to Colonel

Wakefield, the Company's principal agent, which have for some time been before the public. In accordance with the plan indicated in these instructions, your Directors in the first instance offered for sale a limited portion of the lands to be comprised within the first and principal Settlement to be founded by the Company. The following extract from the Terms of Sale, dated 1st June, 1839, expresses the conditions under which these preliminary sales were made: –

"The object of the Company will be so to determine the place of their first Settlement, as to insure its becoming the commercial capital of New Zealand, and, therefore, the situation where land will soonest acquire the highest value by means of colonization. Within this district, the site of the Company's chief town will be carefully selected; after which, out of the whole territory there acquired, a further selection will be made of the most valuable portion as respects fertility, river frontage, and vicinity to the town. The site of the town will consist of 1100 acres, exclusive of portions marked out for general use, such as quays, streets, squares, and public gardens. The selected country lands will comprise 110,000 acres. The situation of the whole quantity of acres constituting the first settlement, will, accordingly, be determined by a double selection; – first, of the best position with reference to all the rest of New Zealand; and secondly, of the most valuable portion of the land acquired by the Company in that position, including the site of the first town. The lands of this first and principal settlement, therefore, if both selections are properly made, will be more valuable, and will sooner possess the highest value than any other like extent of land in the Islands.

"These doubly-selected lands will be divided into 1100 sections, each section comprising one town-acre, and 100 country-acres. 110 sections will be reserved by the Company, who intend to distribute the same as private property amongst the chief families of the tribe, from which the lands shall have been originally purchased. The remainder, being 990 sections of 101 acres each, are now offered for sale in sections, at the price of 101l. for each section, or 1l. per acre.

"In return for the purchase-money, the Company will deliver to the purchaser of each section, an order on their officers in the settlement, which will entitle the holder thereof, or his agent, to select one town-acre, and a country section of 100 acres, according to a priority of choice, to be determined by lot, subject to the provisions hereinafter mentioned.

"The lots for priority of choice will be drawn at the Company's office in London, in the presence of the Directors, on a day of which public notice will be given.

"An officer of the Company will draw in the same manner for the 110 sections reserved and intended for the native chiefs; and the choice of these reserved sections will be made by an officer of the Company in the settlement, according to the priority so determined.

"The choice of sections, of which the priority has been so determined by lot in England, will take place in the settlement, as soon after the arrival of the first body of colonists as the requisite surveys and plans shall have been completed, and will be made under such regulations as an officer of the Company in the settlement, authorized in that behalf, may prescribe. Neglect, or refusal to comply with such regulations will occasion a forfeiture of the choice; and vest the right of selection in such officer as to the sections in regard to which the choice shall have been forfeited.

"The land-orders will be transferable at the pleasure of the holders; and a registry will be kept at the Company's offices in London, and in the settlement, as well of original land-orders, as of all transfers thereof.

"Of the 99,990l. to be paid to the Company by purchasers, 25 per cent. only, or 24,997l. 10s., will be reserved to meet the expenses of the Company. The remainder, being 75 per cent., or 74,992l. 10s. will be laid out by the Company for the exclusive benefit of the purchasers, in giving value to the land sold by defraying the cost of emigration to this FIRST and PRINCIPAL SETTLEMENT.

"Purchasers of land-orders intending to emigrate with the first colony, (which it is proposed shall depart by the middle of August next), will be entitled to claim from the Company, out of the 74,992l. 10s. set apart for emigration, an expenditure for their own passage, and that of their families and servants, equal to 75 per cent. of their purchase-money, according to regulations framed by the Company with a view to confining the free passage to actual colonists. But unless this claim be made in London by written application to the Secretary, delivered at the office of the Company, on or before aday of which public notice will be given, it will be considered as waived.

"The remainder of the 74,992l. 10s. set apart for emigration, will be laid out by the Company in providing a free passage for young persons of the labouring class, and as far as possible of the two sexes in equal proportion."

It will be observed that the principle of colonization thus adopted by the Company is the sale of its lands at an uniform and sufficient price, and the employment of the greater portion of the purchase-money as an emigration fund. The South Australian system has thus been followed as nearly as the diversity of circumstances in the present case would permit.

8. The lands comprised in the preliminary sales were,

it has been seen, offered to the public by anticipation. But so strong was the public confidence in your Directors, that within a few weeks, the whole of the preliminary sections had been disposed of, and the Company had realized a land-revenue of 99,990l. The priority of choice of the purchasers was determined by a ballot held at the Company's office, in the presence of your Directors, on the 29th July, the native-reserves partaking of the same benefits as other sections from the chance of the lots. The whole of the preliminary sections sold, from No. 1, to 1100, have since experienced a considerable rise in value, according to the priority of choice, and the predilection of purchasers.

9. Your Directors have spared no pains to select an efficient surveying staff. The Surveyor-General, Captain William Mein Smith, of the Royal Artillery, is an officer of the first ability and of great energy; and under him are three assistant-surveyors and twenty-two men. The surveying staff, (together with a Commissioner instructed to negotiate farther purchases of land) was despatched, on the 1st of August, in the barque Cuba, which vessel carried a cargo of merchandize for the purpose of barter, and to provide against the possible contingency of any accident to the Tory. Your Directors furnished the Surveyor-General with full instructions in regard to the surveys, and especially tothe laying out the plan of the town. They desired that ample reserves should be made for all public purposes, such as a cemetery, a market-place, wharfage, and probable public buildings, a botanical garden, a park, and extensive boulevards, – that a broad belt of land should be left for public use between the town and the country sections, – that in the form of the town the future should be provided for rather than the present, – and that the public convenience should be consulted, and the beautiful appearance of the city secured so far as possible, rather than the immediate profit of the Company. Your Directors are fully aware how much depends upon the judicious operations of the surveying department, and it is their intention to add further strength to the surveying force when necessary; so that the surveys may always be kept in advance of the demand for land.

10. Having despatched the surveyors, your Directors

proceeded to make the arrangements for the departure of the first colony; which comprised not only labouring emigrants, but a body of settlers of a superior class, comprising members of some of the oldest and most respectable families in the kingdom. From the annexed tabular list (Appendix A.) you will perceive that 216 settlers of the superior class, and 909 labouring emigrants, have already been forwarded to New Zealand by means of the emigration fund, and that 12 ships, whose united tonnage amounts to 5390 tons, have been despatched thither by the Company. Six of the ships were taken up exclusively as emigrant ships, by contracts, containing all requisite provisions for securing the health and comfort of the passengers. A statement of the price per ton at which each ship was hired will be found in Appendix A. Every vessel, whether emigrant or storeship, was taken up by public competition, after advertisement and tenders; and no contract has been entered into without the sanction of a board of Directors, nor without a satisfactory report from the Company's surveyor of the sea-worthiness of the vessel and her adaptation for the service intended. It has been the uniform object of your Directors to select the best and cheapest ships which it was in their power to obtain, having regard on the one hand to the security, convenience, and comfort of the emigrants, and on the other hand to that strict economy which it is their duty to exercise in the administration of every branch of the Company's expenditure. It was not to be expected that the rates of freight to a country in the circumstances of New Zealand should yet have fallen to the level of the freights to longer established Australian colonies; but with the growth of the infant settlements, and the increasing means of obtaining return freights, the rates from British ports to New Zealand will of course experience a gradual reduction. The emigrants on boardeach of the Company's ships were placed under the special charge of a surgeon-superintendent, appointed by your Directors, and were subjected to regulations, framed with the view of promoting their physical well-being, and moral improvement during the voyage.

11. The capital invested by the settlers in property consigned to the colony being very considerable, your Directors

found it necessary to charter one ship for the principal purpose of conveying passengers' goods, for which there was not room in the emigrant ships. Your Directors have also deemed it their duty to send out an ample stock of provisions, to supply the first wants of the settlers – to provide arms for their defence in case of unforeseen attacks, – and to forward buildings to be erected near the place of landing, sufficient to afford temporary shelter to several hundreds of women, children, and invalids, part of which will form a hospital, where medical aid will be dispensed to all such as may require it. These precautions your Directors have considered indispensable for the relief of the early necessities of the infant community.

12. In regard to the two ships, (the Brougham and Platina) despatched in the month of February last, it is proper to explain that the Brougham was chartered for the conveyance of a further supply of flour and provisions rendered advisable on account of the recently advanced prices in neighbouring colonies, which will, at all events, render the sale of such articles an operation of profit to the Company. The Platina was appropriated to the obviously desirable object of conveying to the colony the government-house built in this country for Captain Hobson, R.N. the eventual Lieutenant-Governor of New Zealand.

13. Your Directors have been deeply impressed with the importance of doing all they legitimately can towards imparting to the colony the means of religious and moral instruction. Accordingly a resolution has been passed whereby a free cabin passage to New Zealand has been, and continues to be offered to religious ministers of every denomination, provided the grounds of application in each case are considered satisfactory. Your Directors are gratified in stating that two clergymen, the one of the Church of England, the other of the Kirk of Scotland, have already availed of this resolution. The former (the Rev. John Frederick Churton), proceeded in the Bolton, with an endowment from the Society for the Propagation of the Gospel in Foreign Parts, to which the colonists added a considerable sum by subscription; and the latter (the Rev.

Alexander Macfarlane), sailed from Glasgow in the Bengal Merchant, with a liberal endowment from the National Church of Scotland. The expediency of conferring endowments from the Company's lands upon all religious sects, in aid of their respective forms of worship, and in sums proportioned to the numbers of each sect, according to the principle of the New Zealand Association of 1837, has not escaped the consideration of your Directors, and they would feel pleasure, if the increasing revenues of the Company should, at an early period, justify them in granting such endowments for religious, as well as educational purposes, upon the principle mentioned.

14. The establishment of a circulating medium in the new colony was one of the most obvious wants of the first settlers. Your directors, with this view, have effected an arrangement with a bank of the first respectability, (the Union Bank of Australia), for the opening of a Branch Bank in New Zealand, and the manager and officers of this bank have sailed in the Company's ship Glenbervie. A colonial currency will, by this means, be at once brought into circulation, and settlers are afforded the means of effecting their pecuniary transactions with convenience and security. The Union Bank issues bills on its New Zealand Branch without any charge, on the money being deposited, thus enabling Colonists to transmit their funds without any deduction.

15. It is incumbent upon your Directors to acknowledge with gratitude the remarkable encouragement they received from public opinion during the progress of these operations. The realization of your large land fund is of course entirely attributable to the confidence of the public at large in our principles and plans. The period of the departure of the emigrant ships from London was marked by strong demonstrations of public sympathy, and the sailing of the Scotch emigrants from the Clyde was hailed with a burst of enthusiasm such has rarely has been witnessed. The dinner in the Trade's Hall at Glasgow, on the 22nd of October, and the public meeting at the Mansion house, Dublin, on the 2nd of November last, will be recorded as gratifying

proofs of the good-will of persons whose station and influence in society are such as to confer peculiar value upon their approbation.

16. The active support of public opinion has proved of the greater importance to your interests, inasmuch as your Directors have, up to the present time, had to contend with difficulties of no ordinary kind, – difficulties which at the time when their plan of action was formed, they had no reason to apprehend, – and which they lament to state have their origin in the hostile spirit entertained by Her Majesty's Executive Government towards this Company and its objects. At the present day, when the national benefits rising from systematic colonization are so well understood, and so generally appreciated, it could scarcely have been believed that Her Majesty's advisers would have looked with indifference upon any well contrived scheme for spreading the English name and race over distant lands, and for raising up in another hemisphere new markets and new consumers of the produce and manufactures of the mother country. But in the present case, where not merely indifference has been exhibited, but the policy pursued towards this body has been on every occasion to discountenance and frustrate its operations, by every means of which official jealousy could avail, your Directors consider that they have just grounds for complaining of the treatment, which as representing the Company, they have received at the hands of the government. Your Directors fully admit that it would have been the duty of the government not only to discourage, but absolutely to prohibit and punish any attempt by this, or any other association of private persons, to invade in the slightest degree the legitimate authority of the Crown, or of Parliament. But the supposition that your Directors have ever entertained such views, or made such pretensions, is one to which they are desirous of giving the most positive contradiction, and is at total variance with facts. The present Company was formed for the purpose of employing capital in the purchase and re-sale of lands in New Zealand, and the promotion of emigration to that country. Its object has never been political, but purely

commercial, as will be best understood by reference to its original prospectus published on the 2nd of May, 1839: –

"The purchase and improvement of waste lands in New Zealand," said this prospectus, "has been already carried on to a great extent, and with much advantage by missionaries and others, who have settled in the country, as well as by persons residing in the adjacent Australian Colonies; and such an operation upon an enlarged scale is the proposed object of the New Zealand Company. The attention and business of the Company will be confined to the purchase of tracts of land, – the promotion of emigration to those tracts directly from the United Kingdom, – the laying out of settlements and towns in the most favourable situations, – and the gradual re-sale of such lands, according to the value bestowed upon them by emigration and settlement. It is also proposed that to facilitate the transmission of capital between England and New Zealand, the Company shall act as agents for that purpose only. Such an undertaking affords peculiar advantages to the employers of a large combined capital, and is further suitable to a Company, inasmuch as it can neither impede individual enterprise, nor is liable to the competition of individuals, and is capable of being managed at little expense and upon a system of fixed routine."

It is important to keep in view these objects of the Company, as originally notified to the public, and never since altered or departed from by your Directors, because in the official correspondence relative to New Zealand 4 , recently laid before Parliament, there appears a letter 5 written by direction of the Marquis of Normanby, then Secretary of State for the Colonies, in which the following charge is made against the Company: –

"Lord Normanby now for the first time learns that a body of Her Majesty's subjects are about to proceed to New Zealand to purchase large tracts of land there, and to establish a system of government independent of the autho-

rity of the British crown. It is impossible that his Lordship should do any act which would be construed into a direct or indirect sanction of such a proceeding."

The imputation contained in the above extract was promptly repelled by Mr. Hutt, then acting as Chairman of the Board, who on the day of his receiving Mr. Labouchere's communication, addressed to him in reply the following explanatory letter, which your Directors regret to state has been suppressed in the official correspondence laid before Parliament by the Secretary of State. A copy is therefore inserted here: –

MR. HUTT TO MR. LABOUCHERE.
3, Southampton Street, Strand,
1st May, 1839.
SIR,
I have the honour to acknowledge the receipt of your letter of this day's date. In reply I have to request that you will be so good as to assure Lord Normanby that the Company which I represent does not contemplate, nor has ever imagined the possibility of establishing a system of government in New Zealand either independently of the British Crown or any other way.

Our objects are solely commercial, being similar precisely to those which have for the last twenty years actuated great numbers of Her Majesty's subjects in purchasing land in New Zealand.

With respect to the measure which you think it probable that Her Majesty's Government will adopt for regulating the Colonization of New Zealand, I beg leave to submit, very respectfully, to Lord Normanby, that the founders of this Company have long urged upon Her Majesty's Government the expediency, or rather necessity, of adopting such measures. This indeed was the object of the bill which I had intended to submit to the House of Commons, the notice of which I withdrew, in consequence of Lord Normanby's assurance to Mr. Somes, Mr. Halswell, Mr. H. G. Ward, and myself, that his Lordship would undoubtedly introduce a measure for that purpose during the present session.

The steps which we have taken, as a commercial body, have been pursued with the more confidence in consequence of his Lordship's assurance to that effect.
I have the honour to be, &c.
(Signed,) WILLIAM HUTT.
The Right Hon. Henry Labouchere.
&c., &c., &c.

Your Directors deeming the publication of Mr. Hutt's letter to be very material to the character of the Company,

requested that gentleman to address himself to Lord John Russell, begging its publication. Accordingly the subjoined correspondence followed: –

MR. HUTT TO LORD JOHN RUSSELL.
New Zealand House, 9, Broad Street Buildings,
23rd April, 1840.
MY LORD,
Referring to the correspondence relative to New Zealand, laid before the House of Commons on the motion of your Lordship, I have observed with surprise, that a letter addressed on the 1st of May, 1839, by me, as Chairman of the New Zealand Company, to Mr. Labouchere, has been omitted. The publication of this letter is of importance to the Company, as explanatory of their conduct on a point in which it is seriously misrepresented in the previous letter of Mr. Labouchere, which appears in the printed correspondence, and it is absolutely essential to a right understanding of the proceedings of the Company by Parliament and the public.

I trust therefore that this letter will no longer be withheld by the Colonial Office, but that it may be laid before Parliament without delay.

I have the honour to be, &c.
(Signed), WILLIAM HUTT.
The Right Hon. Lord John Russell,
&c., &c., &c.

MR. VERNON SMITH TO MR. HUTT.
Downing Street, 2nd May, 1840.
SIR,
I am directed by Lord John Russell to acknowledge your Letter of the 23rd ult., and to acquaint you, in reply, that your Letter of the 1st May, 1839, was not included in the Correspondence relative to New Zealand laid before the House of Commons, because it appeared to his Lordship to be unimportant to the general question. His Lordship desires me to assure you there will be no objection offered to your moving for the document in question.
I am, &c.,
(Signed) R. VERNON SMITH.
William Hutt, Esq., M.P.

The circumstances connected with the above correspondence appear to your Directors so extraordinary, and the suppression so remarkably unfair, as to require no further comment. Many other indications of official hostility will be found in the correspondence laid before Parliament, and for which your Directors are utterly unable to account. In one recent despatch from the Secretary of State for the

Colonies, the course taken by this Company is characterised as unjustifiable 6 . Your Directors unhesitatingly ask in what respect? They appeal, with confidence, to you, and to the public, against this strange language of her Majesty's advisers, and they throw back the imputation of unjustifiable conduct against those who have done what in them lay, first, to prevent your Colony from being planted at all, and then to nip it in the earliest shoots of its opening growth.

17. The nature of the Company has been always, as already stated, exclusively commercial. But your Directors, from the first, felt a great and natural anxiety to secure for the colonists embarking under their sanction, the protection and benefits of British law. Accordingly, at an early period, they solicited and obtained an interview 7 with the Marquis of Normanby, then Secretary of State for the Colonies, at which they urged upon his Lordship the indispensable importance of making immediate provision for this purpose. Although Lord Normanby, on that occasion, declined to give any express sanction to the objects for which the Company had been instituted, yet the assurances of his Lordship were so far encouraging, as to leave no doubt in the mind of your Directors that the Company's purchases, being bona fide, would be confirmed by the crown, and to induce them to persevere, without hesitation, in the investment of their capital for the purposes of the intended colony. Shortly previous to the sailing of the emigrants, your Directors again addressed the Marquis of Normanby, requesting another interview, in order to learn the nature of the arrangements contemplated by Her Majesty's Government, for enforcing British laws on the arrival of the settlers. The interview sought was declined by the Secretary of State, nor could your Directors obtain any information on the subject, beyond the contents of the Treasury-Minute of the 29th July, to which Lord Normanby referred them. It was only when your Directors were satisfied of the hopelessness of placing any reliance

upon the care or caution of Her Majesty's Government, that they gave their sanction, (so far as they lawfully might) to the voluntary agreement for order and self-defence, which has been published in the official correspondence 8 . This agreement did not originate with your Directors, but was framed, after much consideration, by the Colonists themselves, as a temporary expedient for preventing the evils of anarchy and disorder after their arrival in New Zealand. You are already acquainted with the correspondence which ensued, in reference to the agreement, between the Secretary of State and one of your Directors, and of the threat of the Secretary of State to institute legal proceedings in consequence of the agreement. Your Directors thereupon laid the agreement before an eminent counsel, and having been advised by him that the parties would not be justified by law in acting under it,they immediately issued orders to the Principal Agent, and all the Company's servants, not to do any act whatever under the agreement, the same having been abandoned by your Directors. The result will have been, that the law of England will be respected in the Company's settlements even to the extent of inducing the settlers to abstain from adopting any means of enforcing the law of England there. Your Directors recommended, at all hazards, implicit obedience to the course which, as they were informed, the law prescribed. They cannot, however, conceal from you their apprehensions, that the dilemma in which the settlers have thus been placed, may have involved them in some degree of social disorder. And although your Directors earnestly recommended to the colonists the formation of a voluntary association for order, yet, reflecting that, in the neighbourhood of the Company's settlement, there would be many lawless and dissolute persons, totally unaccustomed to the restraints of law and morality, who would be pretty certain to visit the settlement, and perhaps take up their abode there, (a state of things which has unhappily been too long permitted to prevail in most parts of New Zealand) your Directors availed themselves of an accident, which

they trust may prove fortunate for the colony. Having learned that the Rev. John Gare Butler, late of Sheffield, held a commission, received from the Governor of New South Wales, in 1819, whereby he was authorized to act as a Justice of the Peace in any British settlements in New Zealand, your Directors induced Mr. Butler to return in the Bolton, in the capacity of interpreter to the Company. His commission, or Dedimus Potestatem, was as follows: –

"By his Excellency, Lachlan Macquarie, Esq., Captain-General and Governor in Chief in and over His Majesty's territory, called New South Wales and its Dependencies, &c.

"By virtue of the powers vested in me, I do hereby nominate,constitute, appoint, and assign you, the Rev. John Butler, a Justice to keep His Majesty's Peace, and for the preservation thereof, and the quiet rule and government of His Majesty's people, within and throughout the British settlements at New Zealand, a dependency of the said territory.

"Given at Government House, Sydney, New South Wales, this 24th day of July, in the year of our Lord 1819.
(Signed)
"L. MACQUARIE."

Under this commission, Mr. Butler has repeatedly acted, by apprehending offenders, and sending them to Sydney for trial. Your Directors trust that it will have armed him with the requisite authority to preserve the peace of the Company's settlement, and will have partially remedied the evils which must otherwise have resulted from the non-establishment of any description of legal tribuna lby Her Majesty's Government.

18. You will have observed that in Mr. Butler's commission, New Zealand is expressly described as a dependency of the territory of New South Wales. This description is in perfect accordance with the acts of possession performed by Captain Cook, the original discoverer, in 1769, – with the Royal commission granted to Captain Phillip, in 1787, – and with the Proclamation of the Governor of New South Wales in 1814, in pursuance of which, several other persons besides Mr. Butler, were appointed magistrates in New Zealand, and who performed magisterial functions in various parts of these islands accordingly 9 . You will not

fail to remark the discrepancy between the language of the public documents last cited, and that of a memorandum of the Secretary of State for the Colonies recently published in the official correspondence. This memorandum lays great stress on the recognition by Parliament, and by his late Majesty, of the fact that New Zealand is not a part of the British dominions; thereby meaning, as your Directors infer, that Her Majesty has no more right of pre-emption from the natives, than France, or any other foreign power. Without attempting, on the present occasion, to discuss at length questions of international law, your Directors cannot but lament the inconvenient position, to say the least, in which the colonists are placed, by the inconsistency thus appearing between the public acts of the British Government affirming the dependence of New Zealand upon the British crown, and the recent official memorandum, in which even the right of pre-emption of Great Britain as against foreign powers in those islands, would seem to be repudiated by the Secretary of State.

19. It is the belief of your Directors that from the year 1769 downwards, Great Britain as the discovering power has possessed the sole right of acquiring territory from the natives of New Zealand, or in other words, that she holds the sovereignty of those islands against all foreign civilized powers. The Treasury-Minute, dated 19th July, 1839, (which forbids the exercise of British dominion, until after cession of sovereignty by the native chiefs shall have been obtained,) has been erroneously supposed by some to amount to a disclaimer of British sovereignty, whereas your Directors conceive the question of paramount sovereignty cannot be affected by acts having for their sole object to procure the consent of the natives to the proceedings of the government. The Treasury-Minute should be regarded as prescribing a course which the Crown is entitled to adopt in conducting the relations which Great Britain alone is entitled to hold with the native chiefs. This construction appears in accordance with principles of international law which are recognised by other civilized states: and, if to pursue the just and and humane policy of treating fairly with the aborigines in British dependencies,

were to be construed as a repudiation of sovereign rights, and an admission of foreign pretension, then such tenderness towards the aborigines might have the effect of exposing them to the rough handling of powers by whom the principle of justice to savages is not acknowledged, and would tend rather to their destruction than to their advantage. For although the British Government may fulfil its own contracts and obligations towards the aborigines with that strict and undeviating justice required at its hands in such transactions, it would be obviously impracticable for it adequately to fulfil such obligations, or to shield the natives effectually against injury and wrong, if it remained in the power of any foreign state to pursue a contrary policy towards the same aborigines, under the sanction of a right alleged to be derived from a repudiation of sovereign rights by the British crown.

20. The attention of your Directors has been fixed on the excitement which has prevailed in France with reference to New Zealand, since the departure of Captain Hobson and the publication of his instructions and the Treasury-Minute. The facts of the formation of a French Company, with a very small paid-up capital, and the despatch of one ship from Rochfort, would be unimportant in themselves, were it not for the aid afforded to the expedition by the French government, and the alleged intention of that government to plant a penal settlement at Banks's Peninsula. These foreign pretensions have been so strongly condemned by the public voice, as expressed especially at the great meeting in Guildhall of the merchants, bankers, ship-owners, and other inhabitants of London, on the 15th April last, that it is only necessary for your Directors to declare their entire concurrence in the prayer of the petition to the Queen and both houses of Parliament, unanimously adopted at that meeting, "that these valuable islands may be preserved to Her Majesty's dominions, and the regular authority of British law, and a lawful system of colonization established throughout the same, under a distinct and sufficient colonial Government."

21. The official correspondence will put you in possession of the instructions issued by Her Majesty's Govern-

ment to Captain Hobson, R.N., the present Consul, and eventual Lieutenant-Governor. Two points in these instructions appear open to objection; first, the contemplated cession of sovereignty is to be sought less as regards the whole country, than as to "those districts within or adjacent to which Her Majesty's subjects may acquire lands or habitations," which coincides with the Treasury-Minute, whereby the authority to obtain cession of sovereignty is expressly limited to territories possessed by British subjects: secondly, according to the Treasury-Minute and instructions, any territories in New Zealand, of which the sovereignty shall have been so ceded, are to form a part of the colony of New South Wales, and to be governed by laws enacted by the Governor and legislative council at Sydney. Your Directors regret that Captain Hobson's authority should have been limited by such restrictions, and they deem it a matter of paramount importance to the well-being of the colonists, and the good government of the settlements, that New Zealand should be altogether detached from the jurisdiction of the Governor and council of New South Wales, and placed under the distinct and separate jurisdiction of a Governor on the spot, corresponding directly with the Secretary of State.

22. Your Directors cannot but advert with regret to another fact disclosed in the official correspondence, which they consider a serious departure from sound principles of colonization, by Her Majesty's Government. They refer to the reduction of the price of Crown Land in New Zealand to 5s. per acre, until 12s. per acre shall be the usual upset price, in the Australian Settlements 10 . Your Directors are unable to reconcile this proceeding with the principles recognised by Her Majesty's Government, in their instructions to Captain Hobson, and in their more recent instructions to the Commissioners for Colonial Lands and Emigration. But your Directors have determined to persevere in their adherence to the approved plan of sale at an uniform and sufficient price, and notwithstanding the obstacle thus thrown in their way by the Government, they will continue to sell at their established price of 1l. per acre

and at no lower rate, guaranteeing to purchasers that 15s. per acre shall be applied exclusively as an emigration fund, so that the actual sum reserved by the Company is 5s. per acre only.

23. The lamentable results of the absence of any authorized system of the disposal of land in New Zealand, have unhappily, of late years, become too notorious. They have been exposed by several able writers and have been brought prominently before the public in the Report of the Lords' Committee of 1838. Your Directors will not withhold from you their opinion, that the practice of Land-sharking, or the acquisition of land from the barbarous natives by private persons, without any reserves for the use of the natives, or indeed any sort of regard for their just rights, has inflicted irreparable injury upon the aborigines of the soil, and at the same time has proved highly demorailizing to British settlers. Upon mature reflection your Directors see no other effectual remedy for these evils, than for the government to take upon itself the duty of a trustee for the public, and to become the sole proprietor of all the lands in New Zealand, on the principle of equitable compensation to those who have bond fide obtained possessions there. It would be easy to avoid injustice to present holders by allowing them a pre-emptive right of purchase over such lands as they have already acquired, at an established price per acre, allowing them in each instance as a drawback the amount of their actual expenditure in acquiring the land and conveying emigrants thereto. The means would thus be at once opened to the government of re-disposing of the Crown lands to individuals upon the most approved method, viz., that of an uniform and sufficient price, with the employment of the purchase-money as an emigration fund. A well-devised plan of this description would have the hearty concurrence of your Directors, as fraught with no injustice to the interests of the Company, and eminently calculated to strengthen the hands of the government, and to promote the moral and social improvement of all classes of the inhabitants of New Zealand.

24. From the first moment when the mission of Captain Hobson came to their knowledge, your Directors have been

anxious to promote its success by every means in their power. Accordingly they have from time to time instructed the Company's officers in New Zealand to spare no exertion in rendering to Captain Hobson all possible aid and assistance, and to do whatever might tend to his comfort and convenience. The following are extracts from despatches to the Principal Agent on the subject.

The Secretary to Colonel Wakefield, 16th September, 1839.
"Captain Hobson sailed very lately in the Druid frigate from Plymouth. It is the wish of the Directors that in case you meet with that gentleman, you should give him any personal assistance that he may require and you may be able to afford, and they need not express to you how much pleased they will be if your co-operation with him should prove of any service in the public duties with which he may be charged.

The Secretary to Colonel Wakefield, 14th November, 1839.
"Finally, with reference to my letter of 16th September last, I am again desired to impress upon you the anxious wish of the Directors that you and all the servants of the Company should do whatever may be in your power to promote the success of Captain Hobson's mission, and to accelerate as much as possible the time, when it is to be hoped that he, as Her Majesty's Representative, may establish a British authority, and the regular application of English law, not only in the Company's settlements, but throughout the islands of New Zealand."

The Secretary to Colonel Wakefield, 7th December, 1839.
"Although the Directors feel assured that their previous instructions will have led you to do whatever may have been in your power to promote the success of Captain Hobson's mission, yet they are induced to think, in consequence of Mr. Vernon Smith's letter, that some more specific directions may be of service, by leading to a more efficient co-operation on your part with Captain Hobson, in the steps by which the success of his mission may be best secured. You will observe by the Treasury-Minute, of which a copy has been before transmitted to you, and to which the Directors have been referred, by Her Majesty's Government, for information as to the views and purposes of the Crown, in despatching Captain Hobson to New Zealand, that he is directed to obtain cession of the sovereignty to Her Majesty of such territories therein as may be possessed by British subjects.

It is most expedient, therefore, that whenever you purchase land for the Company, you should obtain at the same time a cession of the sovereignty over such lands to Captain Hobson, on behalf of the crown. And in cases where you may have purchased lands already, without at the same time obtaining cession of the sovereignty to the crown, the Directors trust that you will spare no pains to obtain such cession, with the least possible delay. Whenever you have the opportunity also, it is most desirable in case Captain Hobson should think such a step not inconsistent with his instructions, and should wish it to be taken, that you should obtain cession of sovereignty to him on behalf of the Crown, as to parts of the country where the Company may not have purchased any lands. It may further happen to be in your power to facilitate Captain Hobson's operations, by assisting him in obtaining extensive cessions of land, as well as of sovereignty, to the Crown, and there can be no doubt that if this should be accomplished as to the greater parts of the islands, the important object of enabling the British government to establish a beneficial system in the disposal of lands would be very greatly facilitated.

"In all these points the Directors wish that you should confer with Captain Hobson, and place at his disposal all the resources at your command. They imagine that the interpreters, Mr. Butler, Nayti, and Mr. Batts, may be of essential service to Captain Hobson, and if you find that either or both of the Company's vessels, Tory and Cuba, can be beneficially used for the public service, you will not fail to place them at Captain Hobson's disposal.

"In case Captain Hobson should desire it, you will provide him with a proper site for his government house, at the Company's principal settlement, and afford him any assistance in building it up, and making it a comfortable residence. In case he should require it, you will also supply his party with provisions from the Company's stores.

"So far the Directors are enabled positively to instruct the servants of the Company. With respect to the settlers generally, over whom they pretend not to exercise any other influence than that which they trust may be due to their unceasing desire to promote the advantage of all who have emigrated under their guidance, they trust that the view which they have taken of this subject may meet with general approval. They are satisfied that the interest of every settler is deeply concerned in the most complete and early success of Captain Hobson's mission; and it is really for the sake of the settlers, for whose fate they cannot but feel the greatest anxiety, that they hail with so much satisfaction Lord John Russell's invitation, (it may almost be termed,) to the Company and the settlers, to aid in promoting the objects of Her Majesty's government."

Your Directors entertain no doubt that Colonel Wakefield will cordially act up to the spirit of these instructions,

and they trust that the difficulties of Captain Hobson's mission may, by the active aid of the Company's servants, and of the colonists, be yet, in a great measure, effectually surmounted.

25. It is with the most lively satisfaction that your Directors announce to you the receipt of two important despatches from Colonel Wakefield, on board the Tory, the former dated at Teawaite, Queen Charlotte's Sound, on the 2nd September, the latter in Cloudy Bay on the 10th October last. Extracts from these despatches have already been printed and circulated amongst you, and you cannot but have derived high gratification from the communication made by Colonel Wakefield, in his last despatch, of the acquirement of the valuable harbour of Port Nicholson, and the whole surrounding territory, comprising a surface of nearly a million square acres. It is impossible to appreciate too highly this valuable purchase, either as regards the admirable locality of the harbour, or the fertility, salubrity, and beauty, of the surrounding country. From the map exhibited to you, it will be seen that Colonel Wakefield had fixed the site of the first settlement on the shores of the inner harbour, or port, called Lambton Harbour, in honour of your first Governor, the Earl of Durham. Upon the first town to be built on this spot your Directors have seized the earliest opportunity of conferring the illustrious name of "Wellington," a name so eminently calculated to connect with the future city some of the most honourable national associations of the mother country. That the town is now in the course of erection your Directors entertain little doubt, and they confidently hope, that under the favour of Providence, the whole body of the colonists of last season are at this time located on the shores of Lambton Harbour.

26. Your Directors submit to your approval the annexed financial statements B and C, showing the receipt and expenditure of the Company from the day of its formation up to the present time, and its general assets and liabilities. Although a considerable balance thus appears in favour of the Company, yet after mature consideration your Directors have determined to recommend to you to postpone

the declaration of a dividend, until intelligence shall have been actually received of the arrival and location of the main body of the emigrants of last year upon the Company's lands. That period will, in the judgment of your Directors, be the most appropriate for making among the Shareholders such a distribution of surplus profits as the increased wealth and stability of the Company may reasonably entitle them to claim.

27. Of their own labours during the past year your Directors will merely observe, that they have devoted themselves to a task which has proved by no means a light one, and has required on their part unremitting vigilance and attention. Since the commencement of the Company's business on the 2nd May last, there have been held 55 general Boards of Directors fully attended, and 76 Committees at which from three to six Directors were usually present. In addition to these duties, it has devolved upon your Directors to hold frequent conferences with the colonists and others, to inspect the emigrant ships, and to exercise the requisite superintendence over the whole business of the Company. The removal of your establishment to the present house in Broad Street Buildings, so well suited to the purposes of the Company, in respect both of accommodation and locality, will, it is hoped, meet your approbation.

28. In conclusion, your Directors have to state that they are about to renew emigration to the principal settlement, and entertain no doubt of being able to carry forward the operations of the Company, during the ensuing season, with vigour and effect. Numerous settlers are preparing for their departure, and in several parts of the country local associations are in the course of formation, having for their objects to purchase tracts of this Company's lands, and to effect settlements of persons emigrating from the particular districts where the associations are formed. The Plymouth Company of New Zealand is already in operation, in the west of England, and has met with that degree of public support, which from the high character of its Directors might naturally be anticipated. Your Directors cannot but regard the Plymouth Company as a valuable and important

connexion, and are most anxious to promote the success of this and similar institutions. For they are satisfied that the more our principles and plans are known and diffused, the more favour they are likely to find in the discernment and good sense of the British public.

It only remains for your Directors to submit to your approval the deed of Settlement now presented, including the list of Directors proposed to be elected for the ensuing three years. The majority of the Directors now proposed are those to whom your affairs have hitherto been confided, and, should it be your pleasure to re-elect them, they offer you their assurance that they will continue to devote themselves with assiduity to the work you have enabled them to begin, and which, notwithstanding all obstacles, has hitherto proceeded under their management with such unexampled success.
London, May 14th, 1840.

1 In consideration of 400 shares, and a further payment out of future profits.

2 Letter from Lord Glenelg to the Earl of Durham, dated 29th December, 1837.

3 Fixed by the arbitrator at 1600 Shares.

4 Parl. Paper, 8 April, 1840.

5 H. Labouchere, Esq. to Wm. Hutt, Esq., 1st May, 1839.

6 Lord John Russell to Sir G. Gipps, 4th Dec. 1839.

7 13th June.

8 Page 59.

9 See Petition from the Merchants of London.

10 Lord J. Russell's despatch to Sir G. Gipps, 4th Dec., 1839.

[APPENDICES.]

APPENDIX A.

A List of Ships despatched by the New Zealand Company since the date of its formation, 2nd May, 1839.

A List of Ships despatched by the New Zealand Company since the date of its formation, 2nd May, 1839.

[Names of Ships: Tory, Cuba, Oriental, Aurora, Adelaide, Duke of Roxburgh, Glenbervie, Bengal Merchant, Bolton, Coromandel, Brougham, Platina.]

[Names of Ships' Masters: E. M. Chaffers, J. Newcombe, W. Wilson, Theo. Heale, W. Campbell, Jas. Thomson, W. Black, J. Hemery, J. P. Robinson, E. French, G. Kettlewell, M. Wycherley.]

APPENDIX B.

A Statement of the Receipts and Payments of the NEW ZEALAND COMPANY, from the 2nd May, 1839, (the date of the formation of the Company,) to the 13th May, 1840, inclusive.

RECEIPTS.

| £ | s. | d.
Subscribed Capital, being 4000 Shares of £25 each | 100,000 | 0 | 0
Total of Lands sold | 107,290 | 0 | 0
Interest on Cash, Forfeited Deposits for Land, and Sundries | 2,539 | 1 | 9
Passage Money and Freight by sundry ships | 2,522 | 8 | 4
Total of Receipts | £212,351 | 10 | 1

PAYMENTS.

| £ | s. | d.
For Land in New Zealand, viz., at Kaipara, Hokianga, the Thames, Herd's Point, Waikeke and Paroa, and the Port Nicholson Territory | 35,815 | 9 | 4
The ship Tory, and her cargo | 15,320 | 19 | 11
Adventure per Cuba | 8,603 | 13 | 8
Provisions, Stores, &c., shipped for the Colony | 8,334 | 5 | 6
Buildings for the reception of Emigrants in New Zealand | 708 | 11 | 8
Surveying Instruments and stores | 444 | 3 | 2
Passage of Emigrants, their Maintenance previous to embarkation, and incidental expences connected therewith | 20,412 | 1 | 1
Outfit of Colonial Officers, and their passage to the Colony, not chargeable to the Emigration Fund | 885 | 7 | 2
Salaries (Colonial and Home Establishments) allowances for services, and Commission on Sale of Land | 6,530 | 18 | 8
Furniture and Fixtures | 960 | 18 | 10
Advertising, Printing, and Stationery | 2,197 | 5 | 9
Rent, Taxes, Postages, House, and incidental expenses | 768 | 10 | 11
Investments for which the Company holds securities | 101,555 | 10 | 0
Cash in the hands of the Petty Cashier | 10 | 0 | 7
Cash at the Banker's | 9,743 | 13 | 10
| £212,351 | 10 | 1

APPENDIX C.

A Statement of the Assets and Liabilities of the NEW ZEALAND COMPANY on the 13th May, 1840.

ASSETS.

| £ | s. | d.
Lands hitherto acquired in New Zealand, viz., at Kaipara, Hokianga, the Thames, Herd's Point, Waikeke, and Paroa, and the Port Nicholson Territory, estimated at Cost price only. 11 . | 45,000 | 0 | 0
The ship "Tory," and her stores | 9,000 | 0 | 0
Adventure per the "Tory" | 6,000 | 0 | 0
Adventure per the "Cuba" | 8,603 | 13 | 8
Colonial Stores, Provisions, Arms, &c. | 8,334 | 5 | 6
Surveying instruments and stores | 444 | 3 | 2
Furniture and fixtures...say | 1,000 | 0 | 0
Owing to the Company for Freight and Shipping charges | 2,678 | 13 | 1
Investments for which the Company holds Securities | 101,555 | 10 | 0
Cash in the hands of the Petty Cashier | 10 | 0 | 7
Cash at the Banker's | 9,743 | 13 | 10
Total of Assets | £192,369 | 19 | 10

LIABILITIES.

| £ | s. | d. | £ | s. | d.
Balance transferable to Emigration Fund, for purposes of Emigration only | 59,854 | 13 | 6 |  |  |
Freights due on Ships not being Emigrant Ships | 2,264 | 8 | 11 |  |  |
Salaries, &c. Home and Colonial Establishments | 1,355 | 5 | 3 |  |  |
Advertising, Printing, Rent, Law charges, and Sundries to this date...say | 1,200 | 0 | 0 |  |  |
| £64,674 | 7 | 8 |  |  |
Subscribed Capital | 100,000 | 0 | 0 |  |  |
Total of Liabilities | £164,674 | 7 | 8 |  |  |
|  |  |  | 164,674 | 7 | 8
Balance in favour of the Company |  |  |  | £27,695 | 12 | 2

11 The extent of the Company's Territories exceeds Two Millions of square acres, of which about one million are at Port Nicholson.

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