The Founding of New Zealand: The Journals of Felton Mathew, First Surveyor-General of New Zealand, and his Wife, 1840-1847.

Felton Mathew

First published by Auckland University College in 1940

Digitised and made available online by the University of Auckland Libraries and Learning Services.

Epub © 2013 Early New Zealand Books Collection

ISBN 978-1-927289-64-8

[TITLE PAGES]

[Pages 1 and 2 not found]

THE FOUNDING OF NEW ZEALAND

THE JOURNALS OF FELTON MATHEW, FIRST SURVEYOR-GENERAL OF NEW ZEALAND, AND HIS WIFE 1840-1847.

Edited by
J. RUTHERFORD
Professor of History.

Published for the AUCKLAND UNIVERSITY COLLEGE
by
A. H. and A. W. REED,
Dunedin and Wellington,
1940.

Wholly Set Up and Printed in New Zealand by Wright and Carman Ltd., 177 Vivian Street, Wellington, and Bound by John Dickinson and Co. (N. Z.) Ltd., Wellington,

for A. H. and A. W. Reed,
Publishers, 33 Jetty Street, Dunedin, and 182 Wakefield Street, Wellington.
London: G. T. Foulis & Co. Ltd.,
Australia: S. John Bacon, Melbourne. 1940

[PREFACE]

PREFACE

The interest of the Mathew manuscripts is twofold. In the first place, consisting as they do of the journal records of the first Surveyor-General and his wife, they present an intimate and detailed picture of the procedure of Captain Hobson and his officers during the first months of their government of New Zealand, and throw a good deal of new light on the events of 1840. Secondly, they are of value and interest because they are intensely human documents, full of little daily incidents, shrewd comments on persons and events, expressions happy or petulant of the hopes and fears of the moment, all of which gives a vividness and vitality to the story so often missing in more deliberate historical writing.

My grateful acknowledgments are due, in the first place, to Lady Olivier, Mrs. McCleary, and Dr. and Mrs. T. G. Crump, for their generosity in donating the Mathew manuscripts to the New Zealand Government, in response to an appeal by the National Historical Committee. I am indebted to the officers of the Public Record Office, London, for their patient helpfulness; and to Mr. Heenan and Mr. Goldsworthy for much valuable assistance among the records of the Internal Affairs Department, Wellington. I take this opportunity also to thank the Council of Auckland University College, and the Auckland Provincial Centennial Council for their generosity in financing the production; and Mr. A. W. Reed for the amiability with which he has conducted the whole business of publication.

J. RUTHERFORD.

Auckland University College, September 25th, 1939.

[Page 6 is blank]

[CONTENTS]

CONTENTS

Page.

PREFACE.............................. 5

INTRODUCTION.
Biographical Sketch of Felton Mathew ............ 13

CHAPTER I. CAPTAIN HOBSON'S MISSION – THE TREATY OF WAITANGI.
Mathew's First Journal Letter ................ 19

CHAPTER II. HOKIANGA AND THE BAY OF ISLANDS.
Mathew's Second Journal Letter ................ 44

CHAPTER III. FIRST VISIT TO THE WAITEMATA.
Editorial Note.
Mathew's Third Journal Letter ................ 57

CHAPTER IV. VOYAGE TO NEW ZEALAND.
Mrs. Mathew's Journal.... .................... 82

CHAPTER V. RUSSELL – THE FIRST "CAPITAL."
An Editorial Note ........................ 112

CHAPTER VI. SECOND VISIT TO THE WAITEMATA.
Mrs. Mathew's Journal (continued)................ 119

CHAPTER VII. SECOND VISIT TO THE WAITEMATA (concluded).
Mathew's Report............................ 157

CHAPTER VIII. THE FOUNDING OF AUCKLAND.
Editorial Note.
Mrs. Mathew's Journal (concluded)................ 177

CHAPTER IX. LIFE IN AUCKLAND IN THE EARLY 'FORTIES.
From Mrs. Mathew's Autobiography (1873) ........ 200

Contents. – Continued.

CHAPTER X. THE STATE OF NEW ZEALAND-NATIVE TROUBLES.
Two Reviews by Mathew, 1845 and 1847 ............213

CHAPTER XI. SURVEY WORK – END OF A CAREER.
Mathew's Letter-Book
Mrs. Mathew's Autobiography (concluded)............245

INDEX..................263

[LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS]

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

Felton Mathew – a caricature, 1832 ............ Facing page 13

Portrait of Mrs. Mathew ..............17

Three Kings Islands, and Mount Egmont (Two sketches by Felton Mathew).....32

Sketch-map of the Bay of Islands, 1840 ........113

Panoramic View of the Waitemata from Remuera, 1840 (Reproduced from Campbell's "Poenamo")...126

Sketch-map of the Waitemata, 1840 ........ ....158

Mathew's Plan of the City of Auckland, 1840 .... 189

Sketch of St. Paul's Church, Auckland, 1845, by Felton Mathew ..... 204

The Mathews' House, near St. Paul's Church, Auckland, 1847 (From a sketch by Colonel R. H. Wynyard)...205

[Page 10 is blank]

THE FOUNDING OF NEW ZEALAND

Caricature of Felton Mathew, 1832.

[INTRODUCTION]

INTRODUCTION

BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCH

Felton Mathew was born at Goswell Street, London, in 1801. Of his education and training, nothing is known. In 1829, he became engaged to his cousin, Sarah Louise Mathew, a sister of Keats' great friend, George Felton Mathew. In August of the same year he sailed on the Morley for New South Wales to take up an appointment as Assistant-Surveyor of Roads and Bridges. As his fiancee put it, "his ambition and desire to be useful induced him to go abroad, though he preferred England." In other words, being at a loose end in London, he tried his luck in the Colonies.

Miss Mathew, as she was then, was four years younger than her cousin. She was a young lady of literary tastes, at the age of 15 avidly reading books on history, travel, adventure and poetry, and confessing a love for Shakespeare, Milton, Scott, Rogers, Campbell and "Mason on Self-Knowledge." From 1822 she found employment as governess, first with the family of Lt. Col. Cameron, 79th Regiment, at Millbrook, Southampton and at Beverley, then with the Holdens at Nottingham. For a while she taught pupils at Tunbridge Wells. Then, in August, 1831,

she fared forth for Sydney in the Auriga to join her cousin Felton. The two were married at Sydney in January, 1832, and soon afterwards went to live at Windsor, on the Hawkesbury River, some 35 miles from Sydney.

Mathew's prospects in the Colony continued to improve, and about 1836 he was appointed Town Surveyor at Sydney, an appointment then made by the Colonial Office. Soon afterwards, he declined the post of Chief Surveyor at Port Phillip, as this was a Colonial Government appointment, and, as he thought, less secure than one sanctioned by Downing Street. The choice proved unfortunate, for about 1839 changes were made to enable the Colony to manage more of its own affairs. In Mrs. Mathew's words, "there were to be no more Home appointments, and those who still held appointments from the Home Government were left to their own resources." Mathew suddenly found his Sydney office abolished, and when, upon Captain Hobson's arrival at the end of 1839, he was offered the post of acting Surveyor-General in New Zealand, he had no alternative but to accept. According to Mrs. Mathew, he was given assurances that this appointment would be confirmed in England, though this is not strictly in accordance with the instructions given to both Hobson and Gipps that all New Zealand appointments were to be provisional only. Mathew, always very sensitive of his personal dignity, felt his position keenly. The episode explains his outspoken remarks in his first journal letter, when he speaks of holding "no faith with the scoundrel Government which has used us so vilely, but to make use of them for our own purposes and throw them off as soon as it suits our convenience." He and Cooper, who had been similarly treated, could scarcely have looked forward to their New Zealand mission with much confidence; and Mathew's misgivings were amply realised by

further samples of the same sort of treatment at the hands of Lord John Russell and Governor Grey.

There is nothing to show that Mathew possessed any exceptional abilities as Surveyor. He was industrious and conscientious, not afraid of hard field work in difficult country, or of office drudgery at a time when he lacked clerical assistance. Some of his actions have been severely criticised, but there is nothing to suggest incompetence or bad judgment. The purchase of Okiato ("Russell") as a temporary seat of government at the Bay of Islands during Hobson's illness was effected largely on the strength of Mathew's recommendation, but though Governor Gipps condemned the terms of the purchase, it is not easy to see what alternative course could have been adopted at the time. 1 His recommendation of the Tamaki as the site for the permanent capital was by no means so foolish as is sometimes made out. This site was much preferable to the one which Hobson had first favoured higher up the Waitemata; indeed, the only serious immediate disadvantage (which Mathew saw clearly at the time) – the bar at the entrance of the Tamaki – was one which could have been overcome by harbour improvements. Mathew's fault, if fault it were, was that he over-emphasised the importance of level land for building, as compared with the need for deep water for shipping. He had readily perceived that better harbour facilities existed in the lower Waitemata, and indeed proposed that the Port should be established there, while the capital was built on the Tamaki. 2 Again, Mathew was mercilessly criticised for his Plan of the Town of Auckland, with its series of crescents and quadrants round that portion of the City now occupied by Government House, University College and Albert Park. Much of this contemporary criticism was mere extravagance, and

Mathew, in his explanation of his Plan, presents a reasonable justification. 3 So, too, when his successor Ligar was disposed to question the irregular shapes into which Mathew had cut up the farms in the country lands round Auckland, Mathew's arguments seem unanswerable, namely that the conformation of the land prevented the marking of boundaries along lines of latitude and longitude, and that the exigencies of road construction in hilly country forbade straight-line planning. All told, he seems to have accomplished an honest and competent job of work, and to have faced up courageously to the many disadvantages he encountered in the early days.

Outside the affairs of his own Department, Mathew often expresses views on public questions which are worth reading. To be sure, he is often-times rash and hasty in his judgments, as, for instance, when he condemns the missionaries in round terms on a five minutes' acquaintanceship with two or three of them; or again, in his rather presumptuous verdicts on Hobson and Nias, and the way they allowed personal jealousy to interfere with their public duty. Perhaps it is not altogether fair to judge Mathew for his utterances on board the Herald, for he and everyone else on the ship seemed to be keyed up to a high emotional pitch, and were not their normal selves. Mathew, at any rate, became very petulant at this juncture, and most despondent, too, at the likelihood of a fiasco in New Zealand. One outspoken sentence in his journal provides the explanation: – "In fact, being cooped up in this infernal ship is playing the very devil with us, and that is plain English or I wot not what is." Even the crew seem to have felt the same way about it, only being under discipline they could not give vent to their feelings till they got ashore and went pig-hunting to their hearts' content. "Lord bless

[Inserted unpaginated illustration]

Portrait of Mrs. Felton Mathew

you, sir," said the boatswain, "I haven't been ashore so long, that a'hunting them there pigs I was just like a boy."

Elsewhere, Mathew shows himself unduly self-conscious, a fussy little man, too much alive to his own dignity and what is due to his office. He tenders his resignation when Symonds is made head of the Anna Watson expedition to Auckland, declining to recognise that gentleman as senior in any way. Perhaps one must make allowances for a man who felt himself badly treated by the "scoundrel Government" at Sydney, and was constantly alert to detect anything that might appear to be a slight.

When he does manage to forget about himself and considers public questions on their merits, Mathew often writes good sense. His statements on the need of an effective Survey Department in a pioneer community, his views on immigration, his survey of native affairs and land troubles, his ideas on economical reform, are all well-balanced, intelligent and shrewd.

In Mrs. Mathew, one has to deal with a very charming and intelligent lady, who possessed something which was not evident in her husband – a keen sense of humour. Her journals make delightful reading. They are well-written, based on shrewd observation, and there is a sting in the tail of all she wrote. Sir George Grey appears to have discovered on one occasion that her remarks in conversation could be very pointed, too. 4 Her devotion to her "precious" husband is quite touching, and her courage in facing with him the hardships of the pioneer years – touring the coast in the crazy little cutter Ranger in the winter season, scrambling after him through bush and over boulder to view the country, sleeping out in tents or in open boat, copying 60-page reports for him till her hand ached – compels admiration.

[Page 18 is blank]

1 Below, pages 112-8.

2 Pages 167-70.

3 Pages 196-8.

4 Below, page 258.

CHAPTER I. CAPTAIN HOBSON'S MISSION – THE TREATY OF WAITANGI

CHAPTER I.

CAPTAIN HOBSON'S MISSION – THE TREATY OF WAITANGI

[On January 18th, 1840, H. M. S. Herald (Captain Nias) sailed from Sydney for New Zealand, conveying Captain Hobson, as Consul and (prospective) Lieutenant-Governor, on his mission to secure the cession of New Zealand in Sovereignty to H. M. the Queen. The officers who accompanied him were Lt. Willoughby Shortland, R. N., Police Magistrate; George Cooper, acting Colonial Treasurer; Felton Mathew, acting Surveyor General; James Stuart Freeman, private Secretary; Samuel Edward Grimstone, clerk; Sergt. Ward, Corpl. Lewis, and Privates Moore and Hancock of the N. S. W. Mounted Police; and three servants, Monk, McLean and Webbe. – Ed.]

FELTON MATHEW'S FIRST JOURNAL LETTER.

H. M. S. Herald, At Sea, 21st January, 1840 – ...

Various circumstances occurred to delay our departure on Saturday, long after the time we anticipated. The ship, however, got under weigh and ran down with the ebb tide as far as Spring Cove, where she anchored. I lunched with Lord on board the Argyle... and then went on

board the Druid 5 with Mr. Shortland. After remaining there about an hour, we started in the Druid's cutter, a fine boat, and had to beat down to the ship, a task which occupied us three hours. It was blowing very fresh and, but for my poncho, I should have been thoroughly wetted. We got on board at half past six, and found a very nice dinner prepared for us, to which we sat down with considerable appetite. In about half an hour Captain Hobson arrived, and we then immediately got under weigh and stood out between the heads, the wind blowing fresh and a heavy sea on. I stood it very well untill about 10 o'clock and then turned into my cot sick and sorry. Since that time I have been in a state of the most abject misery.

5 p.m. Having written thus far I was compelled to shut up my desk and hurry on deck. It has been blowing very fresh ever since we left Port Jackson untill after noon today when the wind abated and we are now sliding through the water at about 4 knots. We made 80 miles in the first night, 199 miles the next day and 190 yesterday and are not now more than 600 miles from North Cape.... The weather has been perfectly lovely, and oh, the comfort of a man of war over a merchant vessel!! The quiet, the order and cleanliness are admirable. I have most ample attendance – the greatest attention and kindness we all receive from Captain Nias. We live very well, and altogether nothing can be more comfortable. This ship is admirably managed. Even Captain Hobson, a critic, of course, in nautical matters, says he is delighted, and compares her with the Druid, very much to the disadvantage of the latter. Captain Nias makes himself very agreeable and certainly does everything possible to contribute to our comforts. We are agreeably disappointed in him....

22nd January. – ...The weather is beautiful. The breeze sprang up again yesterday afternoon and we have made nearly 150 miles, so that we are within 500 of the Three Kings, and expect, if the winds last, to sight the land on Saturday....

23rd January. – ...We are slipping fast through the water towards our destination. I have been this morning reading the Proclamations which are to appear in this week's Gazette, 6 and two which are to be published by us in New Zealand; I suppose also that we shall be gazetted in due form in the Gazette of this week. I should like to see it, and, of course, you will bring it with you....

Friday, 24th January. – Eheu! Carrisima mia, here we are tumbling about in a calm – yesterday afternoon the wind dropped, and since that we have been almost motionless, but with a long swell from S. W., which makes it very unpleasant below; though on deck it is delightful.... I begin to fear that we shall be some time in the ship, for it appears more than probable that it will be necessary to circumnavigate the Northern Island; at least, Port Nicholson must be visited, and when there the probability is that we shall go through the Straits and round along the West Coast....

Sunday, 26th January. – ...We have a nice little breeze, which carries us quietly on, and by tomorrow morning we hope to sight the Three Kings, which are the

Islands off the North Cape. I find from conversation with Captain Hobson that we are to circumnavigate the whole of the islands, and touch at every Settlement.... I must, however, make the best of it, and if things go on well, we still hope to be back at the Bay by the end of February. ... There is an excellent trait in Hobson, he is so fond of his wife and family and so desirous of having them with him. I am sure it will not be long before he sends for them. He told me this morning he should not await the arrival of his house from England.

Monday, 27th January, 1840. – At day-light this morning the Three Kings were visible from the deck, and shortly after we got sight of the mainland, as we must call the Northern Island, by way of distinction. The appearance of the islands is very bold and beautiful, and from the summit of the northernmost a mass of smoke is issuing which must arise from a volcano....

6 p. m. A current is setting us fast towards the land, and it is quite extraordinary to watch its appearance changing every moment.... They are hauling up the chain cable – symptom of anchoring – though we shall not reach the Bay probably before Wednesday.

Tuesday, 28th January. – We have doubled the North Cape, which is a fine bluff bold promontory, the land behind it falling so low as to give the Cape the appearance of an island.... The weather is fine, but we have scarcely a breath of wind, which makes it very tedious – for, as we have so long a task before us, I am anxious to get to our destination, and to lose as little time as possible....

I never knew a man so sanguine as Cooper is, of the success of our New Zealand undertaking. He says it is the tide in our affairs, which is sure to lead on to fortune, and has embraced his present situation with precisely the same feeling as myself – namely, to hold no faith with the scoundrel Government which has used us so vilely, but to

make use of them for our own purposes and throw them off as soon as it suits our convenience. For my own part, when you join me, dearest, I shall feel perfectly independant, and will cut them in a moment if they do not behave well. I have made up my mind to buy as much land as I can possibly find money to pay for, and if that do not prove a fortune to me in four or five years I am much mistaken. Meantime, very little will serve to support us, whose wants are so moderate....

Wednesday, 29 th January, 1840. – About midnight we reached the entrance of the Bay, but there was not a breath of wind, and we have merely drifted with the tide just inside. We are lying motionless on the water, the surface of which is smooth as glass. The first appearance of the Bay is striking and rather picturesque, though bearing a general resemblance to the coast of New Holland. The outline of the Hills is rather more rugged and broken than usual, the shores deeply indented and precipitous, partially clothed with trees, and here and there are patches of ground cleared and cultivated by the Natives, with a few huts and occasionally a canoe to be seen paddling along shore. There are several apparently good cottages visible on the Northern shore. At the head of the Bay is Busby's House, which is apparently a very good brick cottage with a Verandah, and distinguished by a flagstaff, on which the Union Jack is flying. 7 A little to the left again, looking up the Bay, is the Missionary Station of Paihia, which appears to consist of a great number of neat-looking cottages ranged along the shore,

the space intervening between the water and the precipitous foot of the Hills being very small. Just beyond this the harbour, that is to say, the anchorage, is shut in by Kororareka Point, which rises abruptly from the water, and on its summit is another flagstaff; with the French Tricolor flying. The sight of this made our Governor look rather blue, for he begins to fear that the French may have anticipated us, and that perhaps L'Artemise is lying at anchor in the harbour. If it should prove so, Lord help us, for if it came to a squabble L'Artemise would sink us in a moment....

I should think that Busby will come on board in the course of the morning, and probably some of the Missionaries. Indeed, if a sea breeze springs up and we should reach the anchorage, we shall, I dare say, have more visitors than we wish. Hobson is much annoyed, because Nias refuses to salute Busby when he comes on board, which, as he has been always accustomed to receive the honour, will, of course, mortify him. Hobson, very good-naturedly and very considerately, says that now, just as Busby's power is about to be extinguished, he would rather salute him with 20 guns than be the means of making him feel his altered position. The proper number of Guns for a Resident is eight. This shews good feeling on the part of our Governor, and bad taste, to say the least of it, on the part of the Captain. It is mortifying and degrading a man, when he might do him honour at no expense or trouble to himself.

Thursday, 30th January, 1840, 7 a. m. – At Eleven O'clock before noon yesterday we dropt anchor in Kororareka Bay, where we are now lying. The scenery becomes very picturesque as you advance up the harbour, the bays and inlets being deep and numerous, the hills broken and deeply indented, and the verdure fresh and varied, although

the general appearance of the land conveys an idea (and a very just one) of great sterility.

Shortly after we anchored we were visited by three of the missionaries and by Mr. Busby, and our whole morning was occupied in parleying with them. Of the former, two were little unfortunate looking specimens of humanity, evidently having a call to procure as many of the good things of this life at the expense of others, and with as little trouble to themselves as possible. 8 The third was a fat, vulgar sort of tallow chandlerlike looking fellow yclept B – – -, who has resided here 12 years, very much to the benefit of his own person and purse, whatever he may have done for the souls of others. I never saw a more sleek, oily fellow than this, or one whose expression of countenance was more thoroughly vulgar and commonplace. He is, however, a good-natured fellow, gave me a pressing invitation to see him (as indeed did they all) and promised to provide our party with horses to take us to Hokianga. I shall not attempt a further description of these worthies, as I doubt not you will see them yourself. Mr. B – – - is to return today accompanied by Mr. Williams, who is head of the Mission, and whom Hobson is very desirous to see.

From Busby we learned that it will not be possible to assemble the Chiefs of the "confederation" 9 under Ten days, so that in all probability we shall be detained here a fortnight, at which I am inexpressibly annoyed, as it will necessarily retard our return.

After dinner a party of us landed in the ship's cutter, and walked over the Hills at the back of the settlement, and returned through what is called the "Town of Kororareka." Of all the vile holes I ever visited this is certainly the vilest. It consists of some 20 cottages (some tolerably good ones) exclusive of native huts, standing on a shingly bank of very small extent, backed by a nasty, fetid morass, five times as large as the space which the "Town" covers, immediately behind which the hills rise steep and abrupt, covered with coarse fern and dwarf cypress, and looking as barren and inhospitable as can be conceived. Of the Town it is impossible to speak in terms which can convey an adequate idea of my disgust – the half-drunken, impudent devil-may-care sort of look of the European inhabitants, and the squallid, debased appearance of the natives form a tout ensemble which has certainly produced anything but a pleasing impression on me. We visited a powerful Chief in his tent, and found him a very facetious old fellow – but in a considerable state of stew at the arrival of the Man of War, though much pleased at our visit. His hut was very handsomely and ingeniously made of reeds closely matted together, and with a porch or Verandah in front, the rafters of which were highly carved and ornamented, the whole being very well and neatly thatched with a sort of long grass, obtained from the swamp....

Unfortunately it is raining heavily, and promises to be a very wet day, which will materially interfere with our

operations. The Governor is to be formally installed this afternoon at 2 o'clock, by the reading of his Commission and the Queen's Proclamation. What ceremonies are to be observed on the occasion I know not; for our Captain is such a queer fellow that there is no saying what he will do. His idea of "co-operation" seems to be that of doing as little as possible to promote the success of the expedition. I fear they will make a foolish affair of it. I shall, however, give you an account of the mode of proceeding....

January 30th, 9 p. m. – ...Tomorrow morning after breakfast we start for Paihia, and from thence the Missionaries will furnish us with horses to carry us to Hokianga, and we do not expect to return before Wednesday.

This morning, or rather noon, we had a visit from Dr. Pompallier, the French Bishop, accompanied by two ecclesiastics of inferior rank. He is a very fine, handsome, intelligent man, perfectly the gentleman in manner and speaking English very tolerably. His conversation and manner impressed me with the conviction of his being a very good man, and he presents a striking contrast in liberality of sentiment and disinterestedness of conduct, with our own missionaries, who, to their disgrace be it spoken, have endeavoured to prejudice the natives against him. As a specimen of the Spirit which actuates him, he interceded with the Governor and Captain Nias, on behalf of an English seaman, now on board an English whaler in the Bay, who is distressingly ill from scurvy, but his Captain refuses to discharge the man, or allow him to leave the ship, although the Bishop had offered to take him into his own house, in order that he might receive the proper attendance and have a chance of recovery. He said very properly and very feelingly, that in a case of that kind, it was not a question of nation or of religion, but that he was ready to do to an Englishman as he would have

done for a countryman of his own. I have a great reverence for this man, and intend to call on him.

At a few minutes before two o'clock p. m., we left the ship in the pinnace under a salute, and, accompanied by all the officers of the ship {except the Captain), Mr. Busby and two or three of the missionaries, landed on the beach at Korararika. We then walked to the Church, followed by the whole population of the neighbourhood, where the several proclamations and the Governor's Commission were publicly read, 10 a proceeding which occupied about an hour. A declaration was prepared stating what had been done, and which was subscribed by most of the persons present – among others by the Chief, whom we visited yesterday, who marched into Church enveloped in a large blue and crimson boat cloak smiling most benignantly, and pressed up to shake hands with all of us. There were, I suppose, about 300 Europeans present, and probably a hundred natives on the beach; and after the ceremony was over we marched out of the Church and then shouted ourselves hoarse in honour of the Queen and the new Governor. The people accompanied us to the Beach, and we returned on board; they were all highly gratified with the proceeding altogether, and the well disposed among them are willing to co-operate with us to the utmost extent. Captain Nias has behaved scandalously in the business, having offered every impediment and shewn as little respect both to the Governor and to the ceremony itself as possible. Poor

Hobson is very much annoyed, and I fear we shall have some difficulty in preventing an unpleasant explosion of some kind now, before we leave the ship. We were all surprised to see so many people present, particularly as the notice had been given only this morning.

Mr. Williams the missionary, who has just returned from Waimati, paid us a visit this afternoon. He is a portly looking and intelligent man, and gave us much information as to the state of the country. From his account I fear the natives will not be collected before the end of next week, which will occasion us a terrible delay. We have, however, much to see in crossing the country to Hokianga, so that our time will not be altogether unprofitably employed....

Friday, 31st January, 1840. – Our journey to Hokianga this morning was put a stop to by the weather, which has set in with very heavy squalls from the N. W., and promises two or three days' rain. If, however, it should clear up, I believe we shall start tomorrow....

Saturday, 1st February, 1840. – Yesterday after dinner we sailed up the Kawa-Kawa River, which is one of the principal tributaries of the Bay, and were quite surprised to see the difference between that part of the Bay and this about Korararika. The former is beyond all comparison richer and more picturesque, the hills are lofty, undulating and partially clothed with trees, having the appearance of plantations. In fact, the country altogether is beautiful and far superior to anything we could have conceived from an acquaintance with this part of the Bay only.

Several circumstances have occurred to prevent us from going to Hokianga, and this morning we had a very disagreeable collision with Captain Nias, which put it almost out of our power to go anywhere. We intended to have gone across to Paihia and when there to have made an arrangement with the missionaries for proceeding to Wai-

mate. When, however, we went to ask for a boat, he refused to let us have one, although he had himself offered us one to be at our service while we are in the harbour. This has, of course, occasioned a breeze; and we have in consequence hired a whaleboat to be at our own disposal while here. After a while we got anchored at Korararika, and after a walk across the Hills enjoyed a delightful bath in a fine, sandy bay. We returned on board to dinner – since dinner we have had considerable Rows, and Nias has behaved very ill indeed to Captain Hobson. I fear we shall not be able to preserve peace while we are on board. He appears to have been under great restraint during the past fortnight, and now is unable to contain himself any longer....

Monday, 3rd February, 1/2 past 6 a.m. – I was prevented from writing to you at all yesterday, mine own, by a variety of circumstances, and I am now doing so before breakfast, as I am going from the ship for the whole day to explore some of the Bays and look for a site for a Settlement. First and foremost, therefore, I am happy to say that our disturbances are all amicably arranged. Captain Nias is more accommodating than ever, and we are all good friends again....

Yesterday afternoon we all landed for the purpose of accompanying the Governor to look at a cottage which is to let at Korararika, and I believe he has made up his mind to take it, and write by the Samuel Winter for Mrs. Hobson to come immediately, indeed by the Storeship if she can possibly get ready. We have all persuaded him to do so, feelingly convinced that it will be much pleasanter for all parties.... Long as we have been delayed here, I do not see how it is possible for us to circumnavigate the Islands by the end of the month.... Shortland is to remain here as the representative of Government during our absence.... On Wednesday,

the grand conference with the Chiefs is to take place at Busby's, and the Governor holds his first Levee. It is supposed that there will be at least a thousand natives present, and preparations are making on an enormous scale for their reception. A tent of about 120 feet is being erected and 1/2 a Ton of flour, 5 Tons of potatoes, 30 Hogs and other things, prepared to regale their mightinesses the New Zealanders. I expect it will be a rather interesting ceremony, and I shall, of course, give you an account of it.

Tuesday, 4th February, 1840. – Yesterday after breakfast, I started away from the ship for the purpose of exploring one of the inlets of the Bay.... I discovered nothing, except that there was nothing to discover. The country is so very much broken and rugged as to be really almost impracticable, and the brush and fern are so dense that it is scarcely possible to force one's way through it. The native population is very numerous, not a spot of level ground the size of a dining table on which you do not find native huts. Their food is almost entirely cockles, potatoes and cabbage, both of which grow wild in the greatest profusion, as well as turnips and radishes, whether indigenous or derived originally from the European settlers I cannot discover. They are perfect savages certainly, although the missionaries have undoubtedly done much to tame, but not to civilise them. I cannot but suspect that these gentlemen are playing a very deep game. They have despatched their schooner to the Thames and are doing all they can to keep us here. They have now induced Hobson to go to Hokianga on Monday next, so that we have no chance of leaving this untill quite the end of next week. I am exceedingly vexed at this arrangement, both because it must abridge our visit to the Southward, and yet necessarily delay our return. I fear you will be here some time waiting for me. Would the time were passed!

Wednesday, 5th February, 1840. – This is the important day, big with the fate of "Hobson and New Zealand." On the success of our negotiations with the Chiefs today must depend our future operations. I trust it will be auspicious....

Captain Hobson agreed yesterday to take Busby's house for his family for a year, at a rent of £200. It contains two Rooms! He intends to send for her [Mrs. Hobson] by the Samuel Winter, so that you will no doubt have her as a companion de voyage in the store ship.

Things are going on very smoothly in the ship, Captain Nias has made the most ample reparation for his conduct the other day, which, in fact, arose entirely from inadvertence; and certainly no man could have behaved better than he has to us during the whole time we have been on board. He is kind, considerate and attentive as man can be, and, of course, we must speak of him as we find him, and have nothing to do with the quarrels between him and his officers. If you should have occasion to speak of him in Sydney, say what I have said, because he certainly has a very bad character there, and I do not think it deserved. We, at all events, have every reason to be satisfied....

Thursday, 6th February, 1840, 1/2 past 7 p. m. – I had just opened my desk, dearest, half an hour ago, when I was interrupted, and absolutely dragged on deck to join the officers in a quadrille. There are two capital fiddlers on board, and we have danced untill now that it is just dark.

I must now endeavour to give you as good a description as I can of what took place yesterday. The weather was very propitious, and at an early hour the Bay was alive with Canoes paddling from all quarters to the place of Rendezvous, Mr. Busby's house. You cannot imagine anything more picturesque than the appearance of one of the

[Inserted unpaginated illustration]

Sketch of Three Kings Islands By Felton Mathew
Sketch of Mount Egmont By Felton Mathew

war canoes, rowed by between 30 and 40 natives, one standing "amidships," and with vehement gesticulation, beating and singing time to regulate the rowers. Most admirable line they keep, and the rapidity with which they passed is astonishing. At about 1/2 past 10, we all left the ship, the Governor, the Captain and all the officers in full dress, ourselves in proper costume, as nearly as we could manage it, and proceeded to Busby's. A great number of Europeans, as well as natives, had assembled; and after some preliminary proceedings the Governor held his Levee, we, his officers, standing around him, and Freeman acting as aide-de-camp. The Visitors were numerous, but the proceedings did not occupy long. At its conclusion we retired to a large Tent, which had been prepared by the officers of the Ship for the purpose, composed of sails and adorned with numerous flags of all nations, very tastefully arranged. The Tent was, I suppose, 150 feet long. At one end was a dais with seats for the Governor and his staff, a Table covered with the Union Jack. The European visitors arranged themselves in a circle round the Tent, with the Native Chiefs seated in the centre. Of the latter there were probably about 200, and about the same number of Europeans.

The business of the day was opened with an address from the Governor, which was interpreted to the natives by Mr. Williams, stating that he had been sent among them by the Queen to protect and defend them, and to place them under the paternal sway of Great Britain, and a good deal more such fustian. The treaty was then read by the Governor in English, and afterwards by Mr. Williams in New Zealand language, and they were then invited to express their sentiments on the subject.

[Mathew's Diary gives a fuller account of Hobson's speech, as follows: –

He set forth briefly but emphatically, and with strong feeling, the object and intention of the Queen of England in sending him hither to assume the government of these Islands, provided the native chiefs and tribes gave their consent thereto. He pointed out to them the advantage they would derive from this intercourse with the English, and the necessity which existed for the Government to interfere for their protection on account of the number of white people who had already taken up their abode in this country. He then caused to be read to them a treaty which had been prepared, by which the native chiefs agreed to cede the sovereignty of their country to the Queen of England, throwing themselves on her protection but retaining full power over their own people – remaining perfectly independent, but only resigning to the Queen such portion of their country as they might think proper on receiving a fair and suitable consideration for the same. This treaty having been read and explained to them, they were asked to state their opinion on the matter, and to make known if any of the conditions were not clearly understood or required explanation. J

Then commenced a scene, which I wish, mine own, you could have witnessed, and which I shall never forget to the day of my death. The Majority of these Chiefs were very fine men, many of them remarkably so, and although numbers were disfigured by the European dress – -the oddest mixture of garments that can be imagined, some in blue coats, some in pea jackets, blue cloaks, brown cloaks, jackets and every variety of dress – yet some of them retained their native costume, and very magnificent fellows

they are. Many ladies also were there, their ears adorned with white feathers or the entire wing of a bird. After a while, one of the Chiefs started up, and in a strain of fervid and impassioned eloquence, accompanied with vehement gesticulation, denounced the treaty, and advised that the Governor should not be received, expressing his fear that their Lands would all pass from them and they would become slaves. He was followed by several other chiefs, all of whom expressed the same feeling, and matters, I thought, began to look very blue. Their easy flow and command of language is really astonishing, they seem never at a loss, and their custom of running up and down a prescribed space, and their vehement gesticulation give great effect to their speech. Just, however, at the critical moment when the tide seemed setting all against us, it was suddenly turned by the arrival of two powerful Chiefs, both Christians and favourable to the English. They burst into the Tent and began addressing their countrymen by observing that they knew and liked the English, and that if they did not submit to us and sign the Treaty some other nation, the French or American, would step in and take possession of their country, and that then they should indeed be slaves. It was good, therefore, to let the English remain, and to say to the Governor "you are welcome." I cannot tell you half that was said; but you would have been surprised to hear the apt and pertinent questions they proposed, and the bold and manly way in which they stipulated for the preservation of their liberties. After several hours of interesting debate in which a turn took place decidedly favourable to us, they demanded time to consider and talk over the treaty, and Friday was named as the day for concluding the business. We then adjourned to Busby's house and then returned to the ship about 7 to dinner, Tobacco, flour, hogs, and sugar being distributed among the natives.

[The Diary supplies an interesting reconstruction of some of the speeches delivered on February 5th: –

After a while one ferocious looking chief started up and commenced a long and vehement harangue, in which he counselled his countrymen not to admit the Governor, for if they did so they would inevitably become slaves and their lands would pass from them. Then, addressing the Governor, he said: –

"If you like to remain here it is well, but we will have no more white people among us lest we be over-run with them, and our lands be taken from us."

Another chief said: –

"Go, return to your own country. Mr. Busby has been shot at. You will be shot at, perhaps killed. Mr. Busby could do nothing, but you are a Man of War, Captain, and if you are killed the soldiers will come and take a terrible vengeance on our countrymen."

Several other speakers followed, all speaking in the same strain and evidently strongly averse from our settling in their country. We have since discovered that these chiefs all acted under the influence of the Roman Catholic Bishop, Dr. Pompallier, an arch Jesuit. 11 One chief said: – -

"No. If you come amongst us you will take all our lands and make us slaves. We shall be com-

pelled to hew wood and break stones. I am a free man and a great chief, why should I break stones? A great part of our land has already passed from us. You will take the whole and we shall starve, then if we steal you will tie us thus" – crossing his hands like a man handcuffed – "and hang us" – putting his hands round his neck. The idea of breaking stones was palpably derived from Europeans who, being themselves outcasts of Society, are using every exertion to prevent the establishment of law and government.

Things had thus assumed a very unfavourable appearance and the current was running strongly against us, when a powerful chief named "Nina" [Tamati Waka Nene] rushed into the tent attended by other chiefs and followers, and commenced an address to his countrymen in a strain of fervid and impassioned eloquence such as I never before heard, and which immediately turned the tide in our favour. He commenced by saying: –

"Let the Governor remain. Say to him, 'You are welcome.' The English have long been settled amongst us and we like them. They give us clothes and other things which we require, and since they have been here they have put a stop to the bloody wars which we used to have, and preserved us from eating each other. The English have more power and dignity than we have, and

we shall derive dignity from them settling amongst us. If we do not let the English remain and acknowledge Queen Victoria, other white people – the French, or Americans – will come amongst us and make us slaves. We do not like the French or Americans, we will not have them. Therefore my speech is, Let us take the English who will protect us. Let us say to the Governor, 'Remain, you are welcome.'"

This speech produced a great effect, and was followed by others in the same strain which caused a complete revulsion of feeling amongst the natives and an evident inclination in our favour. After all the chiefs had spoken a pause took place, when one of them again rose, and said: –

"Give us time to consider this matter. We will talk it over amongst ourselves. We will ask questions and then decide whether we will sign the Treaty."

The meeting was accordingly adjourned till Friday, and we separated and returned on board the ship.

The speeches occupied about six hours, and the whole scene was one that I would not have lost for the world, and which I shall never forget. The manner of the chiefs is exceedingly noble and dignified; their mode of speaking bold, emphatic and accompanied with much vehement, but always expressive and generally graceful action, and their custom of striding up and down a certain space sometimes with gigantic steps, at others in a sort of dog trot, though singular, gives great effect to their oratory, and apparently serves to collect their ideas. And it is remarkable that they never addressed the Governor but when their faces were

turned fully and boldly towards him. Their fluency and command of language are really astonishing. Amongst all the chiefs who spoke not one was ever at a loss, and in some instances their ideas seemed to flow with a rapidity which their speech could scarcely keep pace with.

During the whole ceremony with the chiefs, nothing was more remarkable than the very apt and pertinent questions which they asked on the subject of the treaty, and the stipulations they made for the preservation of their liberty and perfect independence. They are certainly a most intelligent race, and appear susceptible to a very high degree of civilisation. They are little, if at all more barbarous than the Britons at the period of the Norman Conquest, and perhaps may in after centuries become an enlightened and powerful a nation as we are ourselves, unless, as has been almost invariably the result of colonisation by Europeans in all parts of the world, they should gradually disappear from the face of the earth.] 12

This morning immediately after breakfast, Shortland, Cooper and myself started for Busby's in order to see what was going on, and when we arrived there we found that the majority of the Chiefs were anxious to sign the Treaty immediately, in order that they might return to their homes. We accordingly instantly dispatched a messenger

for the Governor, who arrived in about half an hour, and we then proceeded at once to the Tent, followed by a few Europeans, who happened to be there, not above a dozen, and by a large concourse of natives, many strangers having arrived last night and this morning from the more distant parts. When we were all assembled in the Tent, there could not have been fewer than five hundred Natives present, most of them chiefs, all seated on the ground with great decorum and regularity. The Treaty having been fairly written in the native language on a sheet of parchment was laid on the Table before the Governor, and at his request it was again read to them by Mr. Williams. A pause ensued, when one or two of the Chiefs rose up and said that yesterday they had not understood the matter, but that now they had made enquiry and duly considered it, and thought it was good, and they would sign it. Still, however, they hung back, which it appears is their way of doing everything, for, after a long pause, one of them rose and came forward with great dignity, and made the mark of his Tattoo 13 on the parchment, at the same time saying that he would sign "the Book" and "let those who approve it do the same, and they who do not like it, let them remain silent." After this, they came forward with eagerness, each Chief, after affixing his signature, cordially shaking hands, first with the Governor and then with all of us. One old fellow got up and cleared a space for himself, nearly the length of the Tent, in which he continued to pace up and down speaking and gesticulating most violently untill he was quite exhausted. We could not learn exactly what he meant, but his countrymen were all in a roar of laughter during the whole of his exhibition, and it had the effect of putting them all in high good humour. After all

the principal Chiefs had signed and we were about to leave the Tent, one of them advanced into the midst and gave the signal for three thundering cheers, which closed the ceremony of the day. We returned on board to dinner, bring with us "Patamouri" [Patuone] one of the most powerful Chiefs, who stepped forward before all the assembly and presented the Governor with one of their splendid Green Talc Hatchets or "Mares" expressly for Queen "Wikitoria." This is the most valuable present they can offer, as these articles have now become very scarce, being found only on the Middle Island. Patamouri sat down to dinner with us, and you never saw an English gentleman conduct himself at table with greater grace, dignity or propriety. He would have put to the blush many an awkward European bumpkin, who sticks himself on the corner of his chair and is afraid to eat lest he should do wrong. Patamouri, on the contrary, handled his silver fork with perfect ease, took wine with everyone, attentively listening to the conversation, much of which he evidently understood, although he can only speak a few words of English.

We now consider that the first and most difficult part of our undertaking is completed, and do not anticipate any further trouble with the natives. Tomorrow, however, we hold another meeting, in case of the arrival of any fresh chiefs, and at its conclusion a Royal Salute is to be fired from the ship. It is arranged that we shall proceed to Waimati on Monday, and to Hokianga on Tuesday, remain there two days and return to the ship on Saturday. The same evening probably, or certainly on Sunday morning the 16th we shall sail for the Thames. The Governor talks of sending me down before them to explore that part of the country, of which we hear glowing accounts; but I do not much think he will do so, unless the Ranger, Revenue Cutter, should arrive, in which case he will immediately put her

under my orders. I did long for you to have been on my arm and witnessed the scene of yesterday and today.

We are working a good deal in the dark; and there are four distinct parties all opposed to each other, but all endeavouring in different ways and for different purposes to throw dust in our eyes, namely the European inhabitants, the Missionaries, Busby, and the Roman Catholic Bishop. They are each playing a deep game – but "God and our cause"! I think the right will prevail. The country, I feel assured, has been too highly lauded by incompetent or interested parties, I mean as to its extreme fertility, which is, I believe, contrary to fact. But the climate appears to be most delightful, certainly nothing can be more delicious than it has been since we have been here.... I think Hobson will be off his Bargain for Busby's house, and it is quite proper that he should be so. Busby is an artful humbug....

Friday, 7th February, 1840. – We have certainly hitherto been fortune's favourites! We had a most beautiful passage from Sydney, everything has gone on well here, and by mere accident, as it were, we accomplished all our most important business yesterday. And most lucky was it that we did so; for although there was not the least appearance of it at a late hour last night, it has been raining the whole day so steadily and so heavily that we could not under any circumstances have left the ship. I have been writing a letter to Lord, and also committing to my journal an account of the important proceedings of the last two days, and now I sit down to scribble a little more to you, mine own dear precious wife, before I close this, which I must do this afternoon, as the Samuel Winter has hauled out into the Stream with Blue Peter flying, and will certainly leave at daylight tomorrow. ... You will, however, be pleased to know that I am very comfortable, and that everything goes on smoothly

and pleasantly. Our little party is very united, and our evenings are always passed in chat, seated cosily round the Cabin table. Sometimes for variety one or two of us adjourn to the Gun room for an hour, and have a conversation with the officers. They are generally a very nice set of fellows, and we are on the best of terms with all on board....

5 H. M. S. Druid (Captain, Lord Henry J. S. Churchill), on which Hobson had come out to Sydney.

6 Governor Gipps' Proclamations (dated January 14, but not published till after the Herald had sailed) extended the boundaries of New South Wales to include certain territories which might be acquired by the Queen in Sovereignty, and declared that Captain Hobson had taken oaths of office as Lieutenant-Governor of such territories in New Zealand as had been or should be thus acquired; and further declared that no purchases of land in New Zealand would be considered valid unless confirmed by Crown grant, Land Commissioners to be appointed for the purpose of investigating claims.

7 The original portion of this house was brought out to the Bay of Islands in 1833. Busby, when appointed Resident, had asked for a "very modest cottage" of eleven rooms, to cost about £600, but Government economy curtailed his residence to two rooms. These were all that existed in 1840, Busby making additions later. The residence was entirely built of wood, not bricks, as Mathew surmises.

8 Mathew later retracts these hasty and uninformed judgments, and pays tribute to the work of the missionaries. Vide infra, pp. 54-56.

9 An adequate account has not yet been written of Busby's valiant endeavour to draw together the Chiefs and Tribes of New Zealand into a "Confederation" – that is, an elementary form of association which he hoped would prove a means of weaning them from the worst evils of the prevailing tribal regime, and gradually inducing an appreciation of a more civilised mode of government. The data is all there, in the Colonial Office files in the Public Record Office, London. Busby's efforts, creditable to himself, were unsupported from Sydney or London, and produced little practical result. The Confederation never struck real roots in the soil of New Zealand native custom. But the Chiefs of the Confederation were officially recognised by H. M. Government, and Hobson was specifically instructed to negotiate with the Confederation, as well as with non-members. The distinction was, in point of political fact, purely nominal.

10 These Proclamations recited the Letters Patent extending the boundaries of New South Wales, and the Commission appointing Hobson Lt. Governor, announced that he had entered upon his duties as Lt. Governor, and repeated the terms of Gipps' proclamation respecting land-titles in New Zealand. The original of the Declaration, or Memorial, referred to is in Internal Affairs Dept., Records, Wellington, 1840, vol. i, folio 32; a somewhat inaccurate printed version appears in Sherrin and Wallace, "Early History of New Zealand," p. 481.

11 This is an oft-repeated allegation, that Bishop Pompallier used his spiritual influence to prejudice the Catholic Natives against accepting British rule. This conclusion was certainly jumped to by the Government officers at the time; but it is only fair to add that it rested upon assumption. An exhaustive examination of all the original correspondence on the subject in the Colonial Office files has revealed not a particle of material evidence to substantiate the charge. The Bishop, it would appear, took a strictly neutral position, and would not advise the Natives one way or the other on a political issue. On the other hand, it is capable of historical proof that certain Americans at the Bay did their best to sway the Natives against Hobson; their influence was largely counteracted by J. R. Clendon, a British subject, then acting as American Consul in New Zealand.

12 The italics are my own. Mathew's history is a bit out of focus, as the Ancient Britons (Celts) had been submerged beneath the successive tides of Anglo-Saxon and Danish (Viking) invasion long before the Norman Conquest. But the analogy is an interesting one, and no one reading such an account of Celtic and early Anglo-Saxon society, as say, E. Wingfield-Stratford's, in "History of British Civilisation," can fail to be struck by the close similarity in essential features with the Maori tribal system.

13 Mathew is in error here. Hone Heke, the first to sign the Treaty, wrote his own name.

CHAPTER II. HOKIANGA AND THE BAY OF ISLANDS. FELTON MATHEW'S SECOND JOURNAL LETTER.

CHAPTER II.

HOKIANGA AND THE BAY OF ISLANDS

FELTON MATHEW'S SECOND JOURNAL LETTER.

Bay of Islands, New Zealand, Sunday, 9th February, 1840, 2 p.m. – The Samuel Winter sailed yesterday at noon, my own dear Sarah, bearing a most voluminous despatch for you, consisting of seven sheets of foolscap, closely filled and containing a minute account of all our proceedings from the day we left Sydney up to the night of Friday last, the 7th, and I now begin another sheet, having made up my mind to continue recording in this manner every particular connected with the expedition, as I find it more agreeable writing in this familiar manner to you, mine own, than it is to describe our proceedings in a formal journal.

We have just returned from Church at Paihia, and having an hour before dinner, I sit down to fill up the hiatus between the close of my last despatch, and the present moment. Yesterday morning, after an early breakfast, Captain Nias, Shortland, Cooper and myself started in the ship's Cutter, with our dinner in baskets on board, to visit the falls of the Kiddi-Kiddi [Keri-Keri], which we had heard very highly spoken of, and which are visited by most strangers who have nothing better to do.

This is certainly not our case – but still our object is to see as much as possible of the country; and therefore we endeavoured to combine the service of Her Majesty with our own amusement, and I think we succeeded in doing so....

We have been to church this morning, and since dinner the Governor and the Captain are gone on shore, but I did not feel inclined to accompany them, for as we start tomorrow directly after breakfast, I shall not have an opportunity of writing to you again untill I return, which will not be untill Saturday. We all think it a great pity to lose a whole week in going to Hokianga, which might be much better employed in working away to the Southward; but the Governor wills it, and there is no gainsaying him...

Sunday, 16th February, 1840. – On Monday morning immediately after breakfast we left the ship and went to Paihia in order to take up Mr. Williams and Mr. Clarke, who were to accompany us and show us the way. The tide being high, we were compelled to row about 3 miles up the Waitangi river, and there found a number of the natives with horses waiting for us. We mounted and commenced our journey at about 11 o'clock. The hills rise very abruptly from the River, and are very poor and barren, like all those round the Bay of Islands, but at about 2 miles from the starting point we came upon a very pretty view of the valley, which lay stretched beneath us. We then came to an extensive tract of very fine land, evidently of volcanic origin, the surface of it broken with lava-like rocks and the intervening spaces presenting soil of the richest possible description. The country is, however, all open – no wood, excepting a few patches scattered on the side and Summits of the Hills, and covered with a luxuriant growth of fern. A few miles further on we crossed the Waitangi, which then assumes a more westerly course – the

valley presenting a very rich and fertile appearance, reminding one of some of the rich vales of Somersetshire. Ascending the Hills again our course continued over a broken, poor and open country until we approached Waimati, where the land again becomes very fertile.

Just before we reached the settlement, at the crossing of a very pretty stream on which is a watermill, we were met by all the missionaries with a large party on horseback and a very considerable number of natives, who escorted us with shouts and every demonstration of a hearty welcome to Mr. Taylor's, which is the principal house attached to the Mission at Waimati. Here we were very kindly and hospitably received, and after a few minutes' rest proceeded to transact our business with the natives. 14 We had, of course, no trouble in arranging matters with them, and afterwards we took a walk towards a "Koudi" Forest about two miles off; Shortland and I, however, returned (leaving the party) for the purpose of viewing the farm settlement.

Taylor's house is a very comfortable one, and stands in a very pretty situation, commanding a good view over the valley, in which runs a branch of the Waitangi, and of the opposite Hill. There is a considerable quantity of land in cultivation, and much of it sown with Clover and other artificial grasses, which give it a very English appearance. There are several other houses close at hand inhabited by other missionaries and by the mechanics, etc., attached to the mission. One of the former is Mr. Davis, who married Mrs. Iselton, but I did not find it out untill yesterday morning, when it was too late to call on her. They are building a large and very good Church which, when com-

plete, will accommodate about five hundred people. The natives here are very docile and tractable, and the missionaries certainly succeed in keeping them in much better order than is observed among them in any other part of the island so far as I can see and hear. The distance from the Bay to Waimati is about 15 miles and we were accompanied by natives to carry our baggage, who travelled almost as fast as we did, although we were on horseback and they on foot. I was very much pleased with Waimati, the situation is delightful, the air pure, Taylor's house is very comfortable and the place altogether very desirable. English flowers are flourishing in abundance, Dahlias are most luxuriant and the garden altogether very productive. The only drawback is the quantity of rain, which from the elevated position of the settlement is very considerable, indeed; Mrs. Taylor said that a fine day was a rarity indeed. We were fortunate in that respect, and saw the place to great advantage.

About 9 o'clock on Tuesday Morning we again mounted our horses and continued our Journey towards Hokianga, the distance being about 18 miles to the River, and from thence about 8 more down the River to the Wesleyan Missionary Station. After leaving Waimate you cross two fine running streams, and from thence the ground rises gradually to the base of a very lofty flat-topped Hill called "Pouki-nui" [Pukenui] or Big-Hill, which is evidently the Crater of an extinct Volcanoe. Its base, and indeed the country all round for miles is covered with masses of Volcanic rock and Scoria, and a chain of similar remarkable Hills extends at intervals for a great distance across the country. At the foot of this hill, which is 3 miles from Waimati, is an extensive native "Pah," in which the salutary influence exercised by the missionaries is very strongly exhibited. They (the natives) have here a great deal of land exceedingly well cultivated, with fine crops

of corn and potatoes, wheat ricks well thatched, very neat and comfortable habitations and the whole substantially fenced. They flocked out in great numbers to welcome us, with their usual salutation of "Tenarakakoi" or "How do you do," and very eager in their desire to shake hands, which they are very fond of and invariably practise if possible.

About a mile further on is another Pah, containing numerous habitations and entirely surrounded by a well-built stone wall three feet thick, which was originally intended for defence as well as for a fence. The Union Jack was flying in the centre, and the whole population, headed by the Chief, turned out and welcomed us in the most enthusiastic manner. Fencing the land in this quarter is an easy task, the stones and scoria lying in such abundance on the surface that it answers the double purpose, of fencing and clearing the land for cultivation at one and the same time. The land hereabout is exceedingly fertile and particularly adapted for the cultivation of the vine. The whole of the country we had hitherto passed over was quite open and unincumbered with a single tree, so it continues for a few miles beyond the last mentioned "Pah." We then cross the dividing Range of this northern part of the Island and obtain a view of a fine fresh water Lake of some miles in extent, the banks of which do not, however, present any remarkable appearance of beauty. Crossing a deep and broken gully, the sides of which are so precipitous that you would have stared had you been told you were to ride up them without dismounting (which you did).

We entered about half a mile further on upon the most difficult and serious part of our journey. To a person who was a stranger to this part of the world, I should despair of conveying anything like an idea of the task we had to undergo, but I think I can make you understand

it, mine own. We entered on a Wood, which is not surpassed by the densest and most impenetrable brushes of Brisbane Water or any part of New South Wales, with the additional disadvantage of being alternately intersected by running streams, falling into black, slimy bogs, and broken into a rapid succession of rocky and almost inaccessible prominences. The trees are gigantic, interlaced with parasites and cane brakes, the underwood being composed chiefly of enormous ferns which were commonly higher than our heads, though on horseback. The track was merely a native footpath, barely wide enough for a horse, and the ground being thickly covered with a complete network of large roots from the trees, continually laid bare and rendered slippery as ice by the frequent rains, it would seem almost impossible for horses to keep their feet. Every now and then we came on a spot where perhaps three or four trees had fallen directly across the path; and as from the thickness of the brush it is impossible to avoid them, you have no alternative but to leap. This we were obliged to do at the imminent risk of being spiked by some projecting stake, or decapitated by an overhanging branch. Through such Jungle as this we rode for nine Miles – upwards of three mortal hours without being able to see an inch beyond our noses, and with every faculty on the stretch to guard against the risk of accident to which we were every instant exposed. I was never so weary of anything, and thought the wood would never end.

At length, however, we did emerge and began descending the spurs of the Mountain towards the Hokianga River. Recall the Macdonald and you see it at once. About 2 o'clock we arrived at the landing place on the River, where we found a large party consisting of all the respectable Europeans of the neighbourhood, and a large body of Natives awaiting us. Our reception was quite enthusiastic, and after a few minutes' halt, and leaving our horses in

charge of the Natives, we embarked in a large Boat belonging to the Wesleyan Mission and followed by about a dozen other boats, all gaily decked with Colours, we proceeded down the River. The scenery is interesting, but did not to my eye present any appearance of novelty....

As we advanced the River becomes broader and in passing a place called "Hourakee" [Te Horeke] belonging to McDonnell, who published the Chart of New Zealand, we were saluted from a battery of eleven Guns, which are ranged in front of his Cottage. About 2 miles below this and eight from the landing place, we reached the Station of the Wesleyan Mission [Mangungu], where our whole party was taken in and most kindly and hospitably entertained during our stay. The River is here about a mile wide, and the Mission House and Chapel are built on elevated ground a few hundred yards back from the Shore. They are of wood, and the former is very comfortable and convenient, but our party being very large we were all compelled to quarter in one large room. We six of us slept very comfortably – his Ex. in a bed, of course, and his officers on sofas and mattresses on the floor around him. The head of the Mission (who is quite a young man) was absent at Adelaide, and the duties were most ably performed by our hostess, his Sister, a very plump and a very nice, good-tempered girl, rejoicing in the unfortunate name of "Bumby." Nothing could possibly exceed the kindness and attention we received from her, and indeed from all of them, and that, too, under circumstances very trying to a lady's patience. For sitting down to dinner fourteen every day, if five o'clock was named, we were never ready untill 7 or 1/2 past.

We all slept soundly, be sure, after our fatiguing ride, and were on foot early the next morning, prepared for the troublesome business of the day, which was of the same nature as that at the Bay – meeting and negotiating with the

Chiefs. By nine o'clock about Two Thousand Natives had assembled and a Table and Chairs having been placed under the verandah of the house, the natives were invited to approach and range themselves on the lawn in front. For some time they hung back altogether, and we began, to say the truth, both to look and to feel rather foolish. But at last they appeared to have made up their minds, and giving a shout they all advanced in a body to the front of the seat, where we were awaiting their approach. The ceremony was much the same as at the Bay; and the same sinister influence had been at work to oppose us – but after long debating, during which much tact, good sense, and eloquence were displayed by the Chiefs, our cause prevailed and they came forward to sign the Treaty and continued doing so with such zeal and earnestness that, excepting an hour allowed for dinner, the work was not finished until midnight. Thoroughly tired of it was I, and, not being actively engaged in the business, Cooper and I took ourselves off to bed at an early hour.

The following day we had arranged to go down to the heads, a distance of about thirty miles, to plant the Standard and look about us. Our Governor, however, contrary to our advice, and as it subsequently proved most unfortunately, was persuaded by the Chiefs to forego his intention in order to have the gratification of witnessing their grand feast – the materials for which we had, of course, provided for them. Accordingly, directly after breakfast we got into our boats and proceeded to McDonnell's station (before mentioned), where they had congregated. As we approached the spot we saw the men to the number of fully fifteen hundred, all drawn up in three bodies in battle array, fully armed and accoutred, most of them in their native costume, and each man carrying in the left hand his paddle just as they had left their war canoes. When we came directly opposite to them the three parties

rushed together into one body drawn up on the shore in double file and made a sign to us to anchor so as to command a full view of the whole body; which we did at the distance of about thirty yards from the shore. When they saw that we were quite prepared to attend to them, they set up a most terrific roar, which I could compare to nothing but the short, ferocious roar of a troop of lions in a Menagerie just before feeding time, which noise indeed it exactly resembled. Its effect from 1,500 human voices was inconceivably terrific. This was the prelude to the war dance, which I fear I cannot convey to you any idea of. It consisted of leaping from the ground to the height of about three feet, with the legs thrown alternatively to each side, flourishing the paddles, shouting and making all sorts of vehement gestures, preserving most accurately both time and tune. The regularity with which so large a body of men leaped from the ground, throwing the left hand with the paddle into the air and flourishing the right armed with various weapons, all exactly at the same moment, was really singular and admirable. The evolutions were continued for a few minutes and then ceased with a terrific shout; this they repeated three times, and then saluting us with a volley of cheers they gave us to understand that the ceremony was completed. We stood up in our boat and gave them three cheers in return, which seemed to gratify them highly. After this, we landed and proceeded to witness the distribution of the food and the presents, which occupied the whole day and was an exceedingly dull and uninteresting business. To witness a parcel of beastly savages – not fewer than three thousand men, women and children devouring pig and potatoes is not a very interesting spectacle. At all events, it was not so to me, or indeed to any of us excepting the Governor, and he appeared to enjoy it exceedingly.

I am very glad, however, to say that his opinion of

the interesting savages underwent a very considerable change before long, for his distribution of presents gave (of course) much dissatisfaction; and one vagabond who actually begged a Dollar of him had the impudence on the following morning to bring it back, and at Captain Hobson refusing to accept it, threw it into the River. On our way up also we were followed by a War canoe, the Chief of which brought back his present of Blankets, together with a letter signed by fifty of his Tribe, in which they disavowed the act of the preceding day, and refused to acknowledge allegiance to the Queen. All this was evidently the result of European intrigue; but still it is very embarrassing, and the way in which it was done rendered it very insulting. 15 He, however, brought it all on himself by his vacillating conduct, and by a want of proper energy and decision.

On Thursday morning at 8 o'clock we left the Mission house, certainly with no very favourable impression of Hokianga. Almost every morning they are enveloped in cold, dense fog, untill about 10 o'clock, and almost every afternoon it rains heavily. A more unpleasant climate to live in I can scarcely conceive. Having to pull up the River against the Tide we did not reach the landing place untill nearly 1 o'clock, when, mounting our horses, we made an attempt to approach the residence of the so styled Baron de Thierry, 16 whom, in despite of what we could all of us say to the contrary, he would persist in calling on. This impudent imposter writes a very good letter, and he succeeded in persuading our Governor that he is a very fine fellow. By a fortunate accident, however, we counteracted

his object; for in crossing a creek just after we had started, Shortland's horse got bogged up to the Shoulder, and our worthy Chief, not liking to encounter the same risk, very reluctantly resumed the road on our return to Waimati.

Before leaving this part, I must record my opinion on two subjects. The first is that the extreme fertility of the soil has been greatly over-rated; and the second is that the Wesleyan Missionaries, though evidently very good kind of men, have not effected nearly so much good as those of the Church of England. The difference is inconceivable to one who has not witnessed it. The Wesleyans have little or no influence over the natives; they still retain many of their savage customs, and have not made nearly such progress in cultivating their lands as the Church of England Natives. I am at the same time very glad to acknowledge that all my prejudices against the Missionaries are removed, and that the good they have effected is certainly extraordinary both in its nature and extent. The character of the people seems to be almost entirely changed – there are no wars, no bloodshed, and Cannibalism, at one time universal, is now never heard of. The arts of civilization have been introduced, and in a New Zealand Pah you will see land cultivated in a manner which would not disgrace a farmer in many parts of England. The stories, too, which have been and still are told of their engrossing enormous tracts of land, turn out to be in a great measure erroneous. Most of them are certainly landholders, some to a large extent, but no man can blame them for making a fair provision for their families. The far greater proportion, however, of lands held in their names are held in trust only for the native proprietors in order to prevent other designing Europeans from buying them and depriving the natives altogether of their country. And the deeds are given up to the Governor for the Government to do with them as they please. When to this we add that for so

many years they have lived among a people of such ferocious character without loss of life or insult, although travelling throughout the length and breadth of the land, and that by a purely moral influence they hare managed to restrain a most vicious European population within at all events reasonable bounds, there certainly is great merit due to them. And I feel the greater pleasure in recording this opinion, because, as you will know, I had imbibed from what I had heard of the Missionaries a great prejudice against them. The manner, too, as regards their religious proceedings is so different from what I expected that I am very agreeably disappointed.

To return, however, from this long digression, Captain Nias, who was very ill, had proceeded about two hours before us, with Cooper and Mr. Clarke, leaving the Governor, myself and Shortland and Mr. Taylor to follow as we might. We rode through the wood at a fearfully rapid pace, your precious leading the way, and reached Waimati at Six, having performed the journey in 4 1/2 hours, which was much quicker than it had ever been done before.

This was Friday. We slept that night at Mr. Taylor's, left yesterday noon, and reached the ship comfortably by six to dinner. Nias was too ill to accompany us, but will join us, we expect, tomorrow. And so, dearest Sarah, concludes the history of our trip to Hokianga, and when I have told you that we went to Pahia to Church this morning I sum up my proceedings to this present date Sunday night, 11 o'clock.

Tuesday, 18th February, 1840. – Yesterday, dearest Sarah, I wrote for you a few lines by the Martha, which is to sail tomorrow morning; expecting that ere this we should have been on our way to the Thames.

It, however, has blown all day so hard from the E.S.E., our direct course, that it would be useless to attempt getting out.

Here, therefore, we must lie until the weather moderates. Our little party undergoes some change. Shortland remains at Kororarika, and we are joined by Mr. Williams the Missionary [Rev. Henry Williams], and by Captain Symonds, a son of Sir Wm. Symonds, who is a settler in New Zealand and whom Captain Nias has invited to accompany us to the Thames. He is a very fine young man, and a decided acquisition. Old Williams also is a very shrewd, intelligent fellow and a pleasant companion, so that our social party will not be broken up. In the remarks which I have made in a former page respecting the Missionaries, and in which I have drawn a comparison between the Church and the Wesleyans, much in favour of the former, I must, of course, be understood as speaking only to the extent of my knowledge as regards the part of the country which I have seen. Captain Symonds says that wherever he has been he has found the Wesleyan natives far superior to those professing the Church Communion. As he has travelled much in the Island, his testimony has much weight. At the same time I find that every man I meet is biased one way or the other, and no one gives a purely impartial and disinterested opinion. I therefore do not depend on anything I hear, but reserve my opinion until I can judge for myself.

Thursday, 20th February, 1840. – ...I was quite surprised to find that you may buy almost everything there [Kororarika] and nearly as cheap, in some instances cheaper, than Sydney.

1/2 past 4 p. m. – The Gun has been fired for Mr. Williams, and we are about to get under weigh. I will, therefore, close this, dearest, and leave it with Shortland, that in case you should arrive here before I return, you may have the recital of our adventures up to the present time to amuse you.

14 Viz., the business of obtaining signatures to the Treaty. Six Chiefs signed at Waimate on the 10th, and a further thirty signatures appear to have been collected there on the return journey, on the 15th. (Facsimile, Treaty.)

15 Compare the delightful account of this incident given by F. E. Maning in his "History of the War of the North," allegedly told by a Ngapuhi Chief.

16 A sympathetic account of Baron de Thierry's eccentric career will be found in novel form, in Robin Hyde's "Check to Your King."

CHAPTER III. FIRST VISIT TO THE WAITEMATA

CHAPTER III.

FIRST VISIT TO THE WAITEMATA

[Next to securing the recognition of the Queen's Sovereignty over New Zealand by the negotiation of the Treaty of Waitangi, Hobson's most urgent task was the selection and survey of a site for the capital. At his first meeting with the Lieutenant-Governor, Rev. Henry Williams had stressed the great advantages of the Waitemata as a safe and commodious harbour and a strategic centre commanding convenient access to the north via the Kaipara, and to the south via the Thames and via the Manukau and the Waikato. 17 Captain Symonds, agent of the Manukau Company which claimed to have purchased nearly the whole of the Manukau and Waitemata district, threw his influence in the same direction. Native representations were added to these promptings, for, in the middle of February there arrived at the Bay of Islands a deputation of seven Chiefs of the Waitemata district, who, being anxious to secure the

protection of the British Government against the Ngapuhi and Waikato tribes, besought the Lieutenant-Governor to settle among them and offered land for the purpose. 18

The Bay of Islands and the Hokianga were clearly unsuitable for the purpose the Government had in mind. On February 21st, therefore, Hobson, accompanied by the Rev. H. Williams, Cooper, Freeman and Mathew, sailed for the Waitemata on H. M. S. Herald for the double purpose of securing further signatures to the Treaty and inspecting the Waitemata as a site for the principal settlement and the seat of Government. It was further intended that the Herald should cruise right round the North Island, and in particular visit Port Nicholson, the scene of the New Zealand Company's operations.

These plans were suddenly curtailed on March 1st by the paralytic stroke which rendered Hobson an invalid and for a while left the Government without a head. Hobson subsequently effected a partial recovery, and after some two months was able to resume the reins of office. But the effects of his temporary incapacity were important. At a critical time, the Government was reduced to hopeless confusion and uncertainty. It literally lost its head. Discords broke out afresh among the Government officers. More than one of them believed that the mission was a fiasco, and evinced a disposition to "cut and run"; Cooper actually did return to Sydney. The search for the site of the capital was for the time being discontinued, and in consequence temporary provision had to be

made at the Bay of Islands for the housing of the Government and the settlement of immigrants – a cumbrous arrangement, involving an expensive bargain with J. R. Clendon which both parties regretted at their leisure. An even more unfortunate aspect of the affair was that Hobson's illness caused the postponement sine die of his visit to Port Nicholson. The fact that the capital was fixed at the Waitemata before the Lieutenant-Governor had inspected the harbour and town of Wellington, then by far the most populous settlement in the Colony, greatly embittered the feelings of the Cook Strait settlers, and intensified that mistrust of him in the South which lasted throughout his Governorship.

Felton Mathew's third journal-letter, which follows, gives an intimate day-to-day account of the events that led up to this situation. Incidentally, this letter throws some further light on the very vexed question whether, and if so, when, Hobson landed at Orakei. Mathew's record, examined alongside the Log of the Herald, shows that February 26th was the only day during his first visit to the Waitemata when Hobson could have landed at Orakei; his movements are accounted for otherwise on every day. The Herald anchored in mid-channel off Point Britomart on February 23rd, that is, well above Orakei. Hobson's exploratory excursions on the 23rd, 24th, 27th and 28th were all upstream from the Herald – therefore away from Orakei; on the 25th and again on the 29th, bad weather put a stop to his expeditions; and on the morning of March 1st his stroke caused the abandonment of all plans. This leaves only the 26th, on which day (Mathew records) "the

Governor started from the ship in the missionary's boat to examine an inlet in the harbour." But as to which inlet it was that Hobson visited there is no clue; whether upstream or downstream, whether two miles away or twenty, we do not know. If we could rely on Native evidence and assume as a fact that Hobson did, at some time during his first visit to the Waitemata, land at Orakei, then February 26th would be the date of that event. But it is not improbable that what the Native witnesses recollected refers to a later visit to Orakei, towards the end of 1840, when the capital Auckland was in process of being built. So the Orakei legend still preserves an element of mystery. – Ed.]

FELTON MATHEW'S THIRD JOURNAL-LETTER.

River Thames, New Zealand, Saturday, 22nd February, 1840. – I closed another portion of my Journal, dearest Sarah, and left it with Shortland, in order that it may greet you on your arrival in the Bay of Islands; and I now commence another sheet altho' I have yet very little to detail. At 8 yesterday morning we got under weigh. The wind was fresh from the N. by E., and we had therefore to beat out of the Bay, which we did not succeed in doing untill about 3 o'clock. The weather was very thick, with heavy squalls of Rain, and I was so miserable that I was compelled to take to my cot and sleep away my wretchedness, which with occasional intervals of miserable consciousness I succeeded in doing; and on waking this morning, I find preparations making for dropping anchor, which we did in the Mouth of the Thames, at 7 a. m. We are not, however, in our proper position, but have to move about 5 miles further up, and a boat has now left the ship to sound

for that purpose. 19 I am very happy to say that Captain Hobson talks of leaving me here, if the place appears desirable for a settlement, and sending word to the Bay for the Store-ship to proceed hither immediately. This will be gratifying in two ways – it will release me from durance, and, above all, will be the means of our meeting earlier than we otherwise should....

Sunday, 23rd February. – We have not spent today, dearest, quite as it should be, for soon after breakfast the ship was got under weigh in order to work higher up the Harbour of Waitemata, which is the spot we wish to examine. We were joined by a little schooner of 30 Tons belonging to a Captain Bateman, which the Governor talks of hiring and placing under my control. In this case Captain Symonds will remain with me, and I congratulate myself on having so pleasant and gentlemanly a companion. We did not reach our anchorage untill 4 o'clock and then, after a hasty dinner, the Governor, Captain Nias, myself and Cooper left in the Cutter for the purpose of examining the harbour a little higher up. Our inspection proved, as far as it went, very satisfactory. The appearance of the country is certainly very interesting after the rugged, impracticable shores of the Bay of Islands. The land is of moderate elevation, occasionally swelling into gentle undulations, but generally very level and quite unincumbered by Trees of any kind. This, although advantageous in some respects, will occasion a dearth of firewood which, at first, will I fear be attended with some inconvenience. There are several very singular Hills rising boldly from the

surrounding land, in shape and form closely resembling the Roman encampments on the Tumuli, which abound in many parts of England, and having like them three or four distinct fosses or ditches encircling them towards the summit. It is singular too that these have been formed for defence by the natives; the top of every hill is marked in this way, with distinct lines of circumvallation. An antiquary might perhaps from this circumstance deduce a connexion between the New Zealanders and the Ancient Romans!!... We shall send word to the Bay for the Ship to proceed hither immediately.

Monday, 24 February, 1840 – At 1/2 past 6 this morning, dear Sarah, we got on board a little schooner of 30 Tons in company with divers pigs which occupied the deck, and proceeded up the Bay and River Waitemata. It blew very hard all night, and just before we started commenced raining heavily, and it did not cease for one minute from that time untill 4 in the afternoon, when we returned on board the Herald. We had, however, a most satisfactory cruise. The scenery up the River, on the right bank especially, is very pretty, and reminded me of the lower part of the Hawkesbury, only that the left bank is low. We went, I should think, about sixteen or eighteen miles up, carrying deep water with us nearly the whole way. The general appearance of the country is certainly favourable; and I am inclined to think that this will be the seat of our future Government. At all events there is no doubt that Symonds and I shall be left here to explore it. A more miserable day perhaps was never seen or imagined. We have, however, done much, and tomorrow will probably decide our movements. I think you will see much to remind you, dearest, of our trips about the Hawkesbury and its branches.

Wednesday, 26th February. – Yesterday morning presented every appearance of another wet day; and, as in that case, nothing could be done, Cooper and I went on board

the schooner and got her under weigh for Mr. Fairburn's, the Missionary establishment, a distance of about 20 Miles to the Southward, and just in the mouth of the River Thames. 20 For about half that distance our course lay past our former anchorage; so that we saw nothing new; untill having passed that spot we gradually opened into a magnificent Bay of some fifteen Miles diameter, one side of which is formed by the Mainland, and the other by the Island of "Waihekeh," which is a most lovely spot, broken into gently swelling hills and delicious valleys, and about 18 miles in length. At the foot of the Hills on the West side of the Bay stands Mr. Fairburn's house, commanding a view of the whole of this splendid basin, the Hills rising gradually at the back, their bases entirely free of Trees, and having the appearance of fine grassy undulations; and towards the summits belts and patches of Timber just of sufficient extent to give variety and beauty to the scene. I really never saw anything so lovely. Fairburn's house is built by the natives of what they call "rapou," that is, long reeds matted thickly together and tied with strong Vines to the posts and rafters, all of which are fastened in the same way, not a nail being used in the whole house. The roof is thatched with a long, coarse grass laid on an inner coating of palm leaves. This kind of building is very neat in appearance and very comfortable within. After taking some dinner – the usual New Zealand fare, pork and potatoes – we left on our return in Fairburn's boat, and reached the ship just before sundown. I was certainly enchanted by the beauty of that part of the harbour, which, in my opinion, far surpasses this. The misfortune of it is that the side of the Bay on which alone it would be possible to form a settlement presents nothing but shoal water.

However, after a few days more of exploring we shall know a little more about it.

Thursday, 27th February, 1840. – Yesterday, after breakfast, the Governor started from the ship in the missionary's boat to examine an inlet in the harbour, and as he did not require my assistance, I landed, accompanied [by Freeman], with the intention of walking to a large and lofty hill, distant about five miles, from which I anticipated a fine view of the surrounding country. Immediately behind the point at which we landed, we came on a small patch of land cultivated by the natives, in which two women were busy digging and packing away potatoes. They were soon joined by a man, a very fine young fellow, whom I made to understand what I wanted, and he voluntarily undertook to show us the way towards the Hill, though he smiled at my intention of reaching it and seemed to intimate that it was impossible.

The Hills we traversed have, at a short distance, the appearance of open downs and are entirely free from Timber. I had calculated therefore that by following the range, a brisk walk of about five miles would take us to the Hill. I found, however, that what has the appearance of Downs is in reality covered with Fern, so thick and strong as to be almost impenetrable, and in many places, much higher than my head, added to which it is entangled and matted together with the vines of the wild Convolvulus, which grows everywhere in the greatest luxuriance, so that to traverse it is all but impossible. The day was very warm, and our walk more fatiguing than any I almost ever experienced. I was determined, however, to see a little of the country, and therefore persevered untill I found the Range suddenly drop into a dense and impenetrable brush which surrounded the base of the Mountain; and as I found that to reach it under such circumstances would involve the necessity of being all night in the bush, and as we had no

provision with us but biscuit, I was reluctantly compelled to give it up.

After resting a while, therefore, we commenced our retrograde movement. The appearance of the country is singular, and strongly resembles our English Downs, swelling into a succession of bold, undulating ridges separated by narrow ravines in which a narrow chain of swamp may be traced by the light-green colour of the reeds and rushes with which they abound. After a walk of about four hours we returned thoroughly fagged, and were glad to rest for a while at the native camp. We found three men and about a dozen women encamped in a little bight close to the beach, and nothing could exceed the friendly reception they gave us. Melons, calapashes and onions were offered us in abundance, and a supply of potatoes was immediately put down to roast, of which we partook with great gusto. We formed a curious group with the men and women all huddled together round us, laughing, talking and endeavouring to make us understand their meaning. At last I took off my cap to wipe the perspiration from my forehead, and you would have been amused to see them and to hear the shouts and screams of laughter excited by the venerable appearance of my bald head. They were in exstacies, and several times requested me to repeat the operation, and each time it seemed to afford them fresh delight. The ladies were particularly attentive, and one black-eyed roguish looking wench especially who tried all her artillery on me, and had I been a single man it might perhaps have been successful, for she was a really fine looking girl. However, I turned my eyes upon her, and fairly looked her down, though not, I confess, without much difficulty, and only by giving her a look which I am sure would have quelled a Tiger in the act to spring.

We staid with them about an hour, when walking to the point at which we landed, we made a signal to the ship

for a boat by firing my gun. The Captain and Master came off for us in the Gig, and the wind blowing with great violence, in beating back to the ship, the master, who held the Mizzen sheet in his hand, by chance let it go, when the boat instantly fell off from the wind, shipped a tremendous sea, and was within an ace of being capsized. Poor Freeman was in a tremendous funk! However, we at last reached the ship, at the expense of a good ducking. The weather is terrible. It has been blowing a hurricane all night, and raining tremendously, so that we are unable to do anything today. Our leader's movements – I will not call them plans, for he has none – are very feeble and vacillating, and like a man who is new to his station, he seeks to strengthen his opinion by the judgment of others, and is perpetually seeking what he calls information from the Missionaries and others, who are the very parties interested in misleading him. And yet he is obstinate as a pig, too, and thinks that no one knows anything but himself. For my own part, I have become perfectly passive and am determined not to offer an opinion on any matter, unless called upon to do so. I shall be much mistaken if they do not make a foolish business of it.

Friday, 28th February, 1840. – The weather cleared up yesterday evening, and today has been perfectly beautiful. The Governor, myself, and Cooper went up the River in a boat to examine a place which we thought might answer for the settlement, but were woefully disappointed. The country is the most miserable that can be imagined and, strange to say, is destitute both of wood and water. The latter circumstance, curious as it may appear, is easily accounted for, as you will see by a glance at the map. The Island is here so deeply indented by the sea that there is not a sufficient extent of country to supply a stream of any magnitude, the land being in fact in all directions merely a narrow isthmus between one large sheet of water and

another. I am much afraid that we shall not find an eligible spot here; a circumstance which I regret because it will retard our settlement. I am about, dearest, to start on an expedition which I should much enjoy if you were with me, but which, under existing circumstances, I do not very willingly undertake, lest it should delay our meeting. But as your departure from Sydney is so uncertain, and the object in view is very important, I cannot decline it, and am only in hopes that I shall be back as soon as you will arrive. I am going, accompanied by Captain Symonds, to explore the country between this and Manukou, from thence trace the Rivers Waikati and Waipa as far up as time will allow into the interior and towards the Great Lake of Roturoa, from whence they are supposed to emanate; and to ascertain if possible the existence of a river which is said to extend southward from very near that Lake nearly to the Mouth of Cook's Strait, thus opening a water communication entirely through the country. Almost the whole of the journey will be performed in a boat or in canoes, and I intend returning here by the 18th March. I think with such a companion as Symonds I shall find it pleasant; but I cannot attempt anything with spirit or energy untill you join me.... I do not think we shall start before Monday.

Saturday, 29th February, 1840. – The weather today is again most terrible, raining heavily and blowing great guns. We begin to fear that the climate is far too wet to be agreeable – certainly we have not had a favourable specimen of it since we have been here. Tempted by a temporary lull about the middle of the day Cooper and I started in the Jolly boat in order to land and explore a Bay a short distance from the ship. It soon, however, came on again to rain and blow heavily, and finding it impossible to land, and the signal of recall being made from the ship we put about and with great difficulty reached the ship in two

hours, thoroughly drenched. Symonds has been absent these three days, endeavouring to hire a boat and crew. He is not yet returned, so that I know not when we shall start....

Sunday Morning, 1st March, 1840. – I have a sad catastrophe, or almost a series of such, to relate to you, mine own. Last night after dark the Barometer fell with a rapidity which I never before witnessed and which I could not have conceived possible, and it commenced blowing from the S. E. a perfect hurricane. About midnight the wind suddenly shifted to the North and blew with redoubled violence. The launch and Cutter which lay alongside the ship were both swamped and very much injured – all the masts, sails and oars entirely lost. The ship, with two cables out, rode very well, but the Captain and principal officers were up all night in momentary expectation that she would drive from her anchors, in which case no power on earth could have saved us from driving on shore. 21 Thank God, however, we passed through the night in perfect security; but Oh, dearest Sarah, what agony of mind I suffered and am still suffering at the idea that you may be exposed to it....

This morning we have had an instance as awful as unexpected of the uncertainty of all human schemes and devices, and how completely our best laid designs may be frustrated in a moment. I was after breakfast walking the quarter deck with Captain Hobson, and he was endeavouring to quiet my apprehensions for the storeship, and was in per-

fect health and spirits. I went down into my cabin and in five minutes afterwards he was attacked with Paralysis, losing temporarily the use of one side and partly of his speech. He was immediately placed in bed and proper means of relief resorted to, and is now at noon decidedly better; but still it is so awful a complaint and one attack is so certain to be followed by another that his fitness for his office is at one blow destroyed. Of this he is himself aware, and I could not but admire his manly firmness and his high principle, when on going to see him, he told me that he had at once made up his mind that he was unfit for the cares of office, and must resign and return to Sydney. Poor fellow, it is a sad blow for him – and what a shock for his wife. This untoward event has at once laid level all our plans, and we know not what course we must adopt. The first step, however, obviously, is to return to the Bay of Islands and consult with Shortland, to see if the storeship is there and then arrange our plans accordingly. I do hope and trust we shall meet you, mine own, at the Bay, and now more than ever, because it is needful that we should consult together as to our future plans. This makes so great an alteration in the state of affairs, that I cannot yet think what to decide on.

Monday, 2nd March, 1840. – Captain Hobson is, I fear, rather worse than better, and has just been both cupped and blistered, which, with so feeble a constitution as his, must tend very much to debilitate him. I have very serious apprehensions for him, and am very desirous that we should return to the Bay as soon as possible, in order that Shortland, who is his private friend, may decide what should be done with him. I have quite determined on returning myself to the Bay instead of starting on my expedition; for my anxiety about you, dearest, will not allow me to incur the risk of several weeks' absence unsatisfied as I now am of your whereabouts.... Poor Freeman, too, is very

anxious about his wife, and looks and is very unwell. In fact, being cooped up in this infernal ship is playing the very devil with us, and that is plain English or I wot not what is. We are losing another day. The weather is fine and the natives were to assemble, but we have not yet seen or heard either of the Missionaries or any one else. Neither is Symonds returned. The Ship's company are all engaged repairing damages and looking for the lost gear of the boats; so here are we stuck on board the ship and unable to move or do anything. Never was time more unprofitably employed, and all because an unfit person was appointed to co-operate with us.

Tuesday, 3rd March, 1840. – The Governor appears rather better today, but his condition is very precarious, and the Surgeon 22 urges his immediate return to Sydney. Poor fellow, I fear his constitution will not long survive this attack. The weather is beautiful, but we have no tidings of either the Missionaries or Symonds. What has become of them we cannot even surmise. Our schipper, with the obstinacy which marks all his proceedings, seems determined to stick here as long as possible, merely because we want him to proceed to the Bay forthwith. When we shall sail seems very doubtful. Meantime, I am tormented with doubt, uncertainty and anxiety....

Wednesday, 4th March, 1840. – Last evening we received a communication from Mr. Williams that the Natives had assembled. Accordingly, at 7 this morning, Cooper, myself and Captain Nias sailed down to the place of Rendezvous where the ceremony of signing the Treaty (as it is called) was soon performed, 23

and we have now just returned on board (3 p.m.). Orders are given to weigh anchor, and although there is little or no wind we shall drop down to the Mouth of the Harbour, and tomorrow evening, I hope, if all goes well, we shall again enter the Bay of Islands. I am afraid to think whether the storeship may be there....

The weather today is lovely – old Williams says it usually is – and the harbour does look most beautiful. I look forward to visiting this place again shortly with you, mine own; and then I shall look on it [with] very different feelings. Our Governor is better, but much shaken. We hear nothing of Symonds, but trust that he is safe in Coromandel Harbour.

Thursday, 5th March, 1840. – At 2 p. m. yesterday we "up anchor" and away, and now at the same hour today we are becalmed off the "Poor Knights," a group of rocky Islets so named by Cook. The appearance of the coast is very pretty and interesting from its volcanic formation.

I have made many sketches which I hope you will soon look at, mine own – -my dear one – and that you will also be enabled to identify the subjects of them in traversing this Coast with me, as I hope and trust you will. My patience is wearing thin, for I had hoped to reach the Bay this afternoon.

Friday, 6th March, 1840. – We had a nice little breeze, dearest, yesterday afternoon untill just as we approached the heads of the Bay and it then fell calm – and there we were rolling about untill noon today, when a moderate sea breeze set in, and we entered the Bay. Imagine, mine own, how anxiously my glass was directed to scan every vessel as it came in sight, and with what disappointment I turned from one to the other, forced to confess that they were all evidently whalers, and that the Storeship was not here. At 2 p.m. we dropt anchor in Korararika Bay, and as soon as a boat could be manned Cooper and I went on shore to

Shortland's house. We found him absent, but I succeeded in obtaining your two letters, which arrived in the Victoria (most unfortunately, the very day we sailed for the Thames)....

1/2 past 5 p. m. – A boat has just been alongside bringing me from Mrs. Busby your letter of the 21st and 22nd January....

Saturday, 7th March, 1840. – ...We have had such an explosion this morning between the two Captains, who are both obstinate, wrong-headed fellows, and as fit to act together as fire and toe. The quarrel has been very violent, and the consequence has been the framing of a set of minutes of the conversation which took place, 24 for the purpose of transmitting them to Sir George Gipps. Where this matter may end, it is impossible to foresee – it may occasion our recall to Sydney, perhaps even to England. The immediate effect is that the Government says we must all leave the ship this evening. Meantime, this is the way in which the public service is conducted, by two men, neither of whom are at all qualified for the duty to which they have been appointed. Nothing but broils have occurred, and the whole affair has been one scene of folly and imbecility from beginning to end. Captain Hobson will kill himself in six months, if he continues here, as it appears he has determined to do. You will see how I admired the manly way in which, when he was first attacked, he formed at once the resolution of resigning the the Government and returning to Sydney. No sooner, however, does he become a little better, than he alters his intention, still clinging to the loaves and fishes! It is perhaps natural: but alas, poor human nature! Captain Nias

has certainly shewn great want of feeling, and much indelicacy in wishing to hurry Hobson out of the ship: but the latter, again, is a most disagreeable person to have anything to do with, and has been in many things much to blame. I do not think that any officer will serve with him for twelve months. It is very doubtful if I shall do so, for so long a period. Indeed were it not, dearest, that you are on your way and even close at hand, I would at once resign and return to Sydney, and Cooper says he would do the same. It is really quite painful and annoying to see the way in which matters are managed, or rather mismanaged – no energy, no resolution, no arrangement, no fixed or settled purpose, but everything is done by fits and starts, without consideration; and resolutions are altered almost as soon as formed. Hobson is no more fit for the duty he has undertaken than I am to be Lord Chancellor, and I am quite sure that, even if he lives, he cannot carry on a Government six months without involving it in irretrievable confusion. Would you were here, dearest, to talk this matter over: it really becomes a subject for consideration whether I will not "cut and run" at once. I am clearly of opinion that I could do very well, and spare myself much vexation and anxiety.

Sunday, 8th March, 1840. – ...I am eagerly looking out every hour for your arrival; and yet I have almost wished that you might not arrive today, because Captain Hobson leaves tomorrow early for Waimate, and if the ship arrived before his departure I know it would add materially to our annoyance and discomfort. The fact is that he is not himself, and we shall act when he is gone as if he had entirely given up the Reins of Government. The poor man is very ill and looks wretched. I do not think his life worth a pin's fee. The weather is now so beautiful, I long for you to enjoy it with me. I was talking to Mrs. Busby today after Church, and she says it certainly is the

most lovely climate in the world, and it is the only thing she will miss in leaving New Zealand. She is a ladylike woman, and I love her for sending over your letter to me, as she did the moment the ship had anchored. Cooper and I went to Church at Paihia, and were much wearied by a famous sample of rigmarole from old Williams. I liked him as a companion but not at all as a preacher. Since the disturbance yesterday Nias has been so superabundantly civil to us, that there is no knowing what to make of him. However, he has certainly behaved exceedingly well to all of us: and I believe that if we had had the business to conduct instead of Hobson, we should have got through ten times as much, and he would have given us every assistance. Jealousy between the two officers is, I believe, the secret of all their quarrels....

Monday, 9th March, 1840. – ...Captain Hobson left the ship this morning early for Waimate; and after breakfast I and Cooper sailed in the Gig, with the Master, intending to land on one of the Islands to look out for a good place to form the camp.... We went on in the boat with the master, who was going to buy some pigs and poultry. For this purpose we landed on one of the small Islands at the entrance of the Bay, where, on a space of ground of a few yards square levelled for the purpose, we found a comfortable little wooden house, inhabited by a young man and his still younger wife, who had lately arrived from Liverpool. She was a nice, chatty and rather pretty looking girl, not more, I think, than 18, and altho' living in this desolate spot, without a female near her, she said she never found it at all dull – "she had always something to do, and was very happy" – and certainly her face and manner bore out her assertion. The Island is very small and a mere mass of almost perpendicular mountain, producing not a blade of vegetation except stunted fern and affording not a space of level land the size of a dining

Table. With infinite labour we ascended the almost perpendicular hill behind the house, and enjoyed a beautiful view of the Bay – a vast extent of country and the open sea. I strained my eyes eagerly northward, but alas, clear as the horizon was, not a sail was to be seen. The sailors had a regular "lark" (as they call it) hunting pigs, and so much were they delighted that we could scarcely get them away. "Lord bless you, sir," said the boatswain, "I havn't been ashore so long, that ahunting them there pigs I was just like a boy." We returned to the ship by six o'clock for dinner.

Tuesday, 10th March, 1840. – The Diary of my proceedings is becoming very uninteresting, dearest, for I am all anxiety and cannot with heart and mind undertake anything. We went this morning in our own Whaleboat to the Island, which we intended to have examined yesterday, but found it miserably barren, and too far from the settlement to be available for our encampment. I had a delicious bathe, which I never lose an opportunity of doing, and we returned to the ship by 3 p.m. to dinner. We afterwards paid old Williams a visit at Paihia for the purpose of transacting a little business, and returned on board by dark. The weather is most beautiful, and all the old residents agree that it is proper New Zealand weather; if so, I must say nothing can be more delicious; and I have already experienced its beneficial effects on my health in a very remarkable degree....

Wednesday, 11th March, 1840 – I left the ship this morning in the whaleboat, with only Freeman as a companion (and a very silly one) for the purpose of exploring a little of the River Kawa-Kawa. We sailed up it, I suppose, about 10 miles, and I was much disappointed in it. It is not to be compared in point of scenery, or indeed in any other respect, with the mountain streams of Australia. The Macdonald is a paradise compared with it. The Hills

are lofty, and, I cannot say broken, because that would convey an idea of rocks which you never see, but deeply indented and undulating, rising rapidly from the water and forming an endless variety of "spurs," which are partially clothed with Timber, but chiefly with fern alone. Extensive mangrove swamps abound, and the appearance of many of the Ranges, on which nothing but fern can be seen, is desolate in the extreme. There is not one piece of level Land as far as we went the size of a dining Table. On our return we landed at the Pah of the famous chief Pomare, which is situated on a lofty, rocky peninsula in a very commanding situation. It is very populous, for it contains, I should think, from 2 to 300 habitations, each little plot of ground being well and neatly fenced. From thence we landed at the Estate of a Mr. Clendon, American Consul, who has acquired a very fine property. His house is handsomely furnished, and is very prettily situated with a nice Lawn and paddock green with clover, and commanding a fine view down the Harbour. Here we met the officers of the American schooner Flying Fish, which returned yesterday from her cruise to the Southward. We reached the ship by five to dinner and found Shortland on board, together with Mr. Taylor, who accompanied him from Waimate. They left the Governor something better, but I am sorry to say that his mantle appears to have descended upon Shortland, for he and Cooper have had a violent quarrel this evening, about Cooper's returning to Sydney, which he is determined to do in the Herald. Shortland evidently spoke under tuition from Hobson, and certainly not in a proper manner to an officer so much his senior as Cooper. What will be the result of all these disturbances it is not difficult to foresee, and unless Sir George Gipps supersedes Hobson forthwith, the whole project will prove a dismal failure. Meantime, one great cause of all this mischief is the non-arrival of the storeship, for

were she here we should so much better know how to act. Cooper, however, is determined to go in the Herald, which is to sail tomorrow, and Freeman and I shall take up our quarters with Shortland until yr. arrival – and then, mine own, you and I will start away together, and I will endeavour to discharge my own duty, and keep clear of all their quarrels. It has been a beautiful day, but unfortunately the wind is from the South-east, and therefore almost in your teeth if the Westminster is coming along the Coast. If you were not in her, mine own, I should feel strongly inclined to "give up everything" and return to Sydney forthwith. But we will see the upshot of this foolishly conducted business.

Kororarika, 12th March, 1840. – Well, here I am, dearest Sarah, domiciled at Kororarika; the place of all others against which I am most vehemently prejudiced. But so it is, and midst the vicissitudes of this life, I find myself in a rather funny situation, and like a youngster seem beginning the world again. Freeman and I are quartered with Shortland in his snug little house, our dormitory being a dog-kennel of a cock-loft, which, as the only room to be had in the place, we are obliged to put up with. As it is, however, but for a few days (I confidently hope) I do not care much about it; and the moment you arrive, mine own, I shall stow all our heavy baggage in Store, tranship ourselves and a light equipment to the Revenue Cutter, and then away on a cruise. I have so much to tell you, dearest, that I shall not know where to begin. This morning I got all my traps out of the Herald, and as Nias pressed me to remain and dine with him and Cooper, I did so. The ship got under weigh at 3 p.m. We sat down to dinner immediately afterwards, and as she was beating out, I remained untill 1/2 past 4, when taking advantage of her being in stays and near the shore, I bid a cordial adieu to all on board, and jumping into my whaleboat

rowed by two mounted (or rather dismounted) Policemen, turned my back on the old ship. She looked very well as she flew away on the other tack, and I could not leave her without regret. Nias has been throughout exceedingly kind and attentive, and expressed himself very handsomely towards me, as did all the officers of the ship, several of whom I like and hope to meet again. Cooper, too, was unwilling to part from me, and on the whole we separated with much mutual regret. I am sure that had it been any but a Naval Officer on board as Governor, that everything would have gone smoothly enough, for to the rest of us, no man could behave with more kindness and consideration than did Nias. Thus finished a cruise of nearly two months, in Her Majesty's ship Herald, and notwithstanding all the disagreeable [incidents] that have occurred, I have seen much, and should have derived much pleasure from the trip, had you been with me, mine own. Cooper has returned to Sydney under peculiar and unpleasant circumstances, and I fear he will have many difficulties to contend with. His proceedings are, of course, deeply interesting to me; and he has promised to communicate with me constantly. On that subject, however, more anon. Immediately that you arrive I shall pitch a Tent, if possible, for I have such an abhorrence of this hole, that I shall be delighted to get out of it. And yet it would be pretty enough but for the vile population; and the gentle murmuring sound of the water rippling on the shingly beach is very pleasant to the ear. It is a lovely night; and though late I shall take a stroll on the beach before I turn in to my lair. One advantage I shall enjoy here certainly, that of a glorious dip before breakfast in the morning. I find great benefit from bathing and indeed am in hopes that we shall both enjoy better health in this country, for the climate does appear beautiful. God bless you, mine own.

Friday, 13th March, 1840. – ...The Herald has been in sight of the heads all day, unable to get on. I engaged this morning an English boat's crew, and put them to immediate trial by pulling up the harbour to the house of a Mr. Clendon, the American Consul, with whom I had some business. 25 He has a very pretty, comfortable English-looking place. After leaving him, I paid a visit on board the American Schooner Flying Fish and had a chat with the Captain and Lieutenant. They are fine, gentlemanly fellows – the former especially – and we are going to ask them to dine with us on Monday. The Schooner is a little beauty of Seventy Tons, with excellent accommodations, and would make a lovely yacht, but is quite unfit for the service on which she is employed. They left Sydney on the 17th January, and have been ever since separated from the rest of the squadron, and sailing along the edge of the Ice within the Antarctic Circle in search of them, but in vain. They say there is no doubt of there being much land towards the pole, as they saw earth and evident marks of it on the Ice. There has been no disruption of the Ice this year, so that their further progress South was prevented. Returned to dinner at 1/2 past 3, afterwards assisted Shortland in transacting some magisterial business, then all three went out for a walk – ascended the highest hill to look out for the Westminster – no sight of her, alas! – returned home after dusk, took some tea and here we are, Freeman, poor fellow, copying letters, Shortland reading over an old Log book of his West Indian voyages, and I logging down my day's proceedings for my precious wife. The Thermometer of my spirits has risen a little, since I have been recovering from the effects of the villainous confinement on ship board; and I am more sanguine than I have latterly been, of doing something both for the public service and for myself....

Saturday, 14th March. – After breakfast this morning, I started in my whaleboat for the purpose of examining some other parts of the Bay which I had not yet visited. On pulling round the point from Kororarika it was blowing very heavily, and a tremendous sea was rolling into the Bay. I therefore altered my original intention and pulled round into a Bay, where I had hoped to be more sheltered – I was, however, mistaken. The rollers were very heavy, and every now and then curled over my little boat, which, however, rode over them most gallantly. I have a capital crew and they pulled away like – – - 26 I first visited a native Pah, where I found a number of natives, and about two hundred houses. They received me in a very friendly manner, and I made myself known to them as a Rangatira or chief in the service of Her Majesty. I then cruised about the Bay for some time, peeping into every part and finding that I should have both a tedious and a wet pull back, I landed and walked home. The distance is about five miles, and the road tremendous. The first hill I ascended from the beach is fully 500 feet above the level of the sea; and the path runs straight up it as steep as the roof of a house, and as narrow as the back of a razor. Two more such occur after that, and a sandy beach of about a mile and a half long, in which I sunk to my ancles at every step. Judge therefore, dearest, that I am terribly tired tonight. It is the first severe walk I have taken for some time, and not being yet quite in wind, I felt it much.

Sunday, 15th March, 1840. – Last night was not so severe as I expected. It rained heavily, but the wind was not severe, and this morning again was lovely. I had, however, a heavy storm when I was bathing. We all went to Church at Kororarika, where old Williams officiated; he

is a tiresome old fellow in the pulpit and curtails the proper service to introduce his own extempore rubbish. After Church, we walked to the top of the hill in order to look out for the Westminster, towards which all our thoughts and hopes are now directed. There is a fine view of the Bay, and the open sea from heads to heads, but no ship in sight. And yet there has been a fine, stiff westerly wind blowing all day, which made us pretty confidently hope that you must be in before night. We dined at two – old Williams with us. Afterwards, he went to Church, and we – to sleep. About five, Freeman and I strolled over to "Long Beach," about two miles from the town, where we had another view of the heads, and where we lingered, watching the huge breakers as they rolled into the bay and broke at our feet, untill nearly dark, when we returned home....

Monday, 16th March, 1840. – ...I have been cruising about the Bay today picking up "useful knowledge," which is all I can do untill your arrival. Most anxious am I to be more profitably employed. I am, however, making the most of my time. I took a biscuit in my pocket and returned home at half past 6, taking dinner and tea together. I have since been finishing a sketch, and now betake myself to bed. To bed! but not to sleep. I cannot sleep half the night, dearest! I do not close my eyes till after midnight, and am continually getting out of bed to count the ships and see if an arrival has taken place.

[Here the third journal-letter ends. Mrs. Felton Mathew arrived on the Westminster the next day, and put a term to her husband's mounting anxiety. Mrs. Mathew's journal, which follows, gives a characteristically feminine view of the situation.]

17 Carleton, "Life of Henry Williams," II, p. 17-8.

18 S. P. Smith, "Maori Wars of the Nineteenth Century," p. 478.

19 See sketch-map of Waitemata, facing page 159. The Herald anchored in the first place under Rangitoto and Motutapu, February 22; but not finding sufficient water to approach the Waitemata from the North East, she turned back, rounded these two islands, and entered the Waitemata by the channel between Rangitoto and North Head. (Herald Logs, Ad. 51/3217 and 53/672.)

20 Maraetai, at the mouth of the Firth of Thames, or Hauraki Gulf.

21 The intensity of the storm is indicated by the Herald Log. The barometer dropped from 29.50 at 5 p. m. on the 29th, to 28.75 nine hours later; the wind rising from velocity 4 (moderate breeze of about 15 miles per hour) to 12 (full gale, over 75 miles per hour) at 11 p. m., and not dropping appreciably till midday next day. Here is one entry – "March 1st, 2 a. m. Blowing a hurricane, the wind veering in tremendous gusts from E. by N. to NNE. Observed the pinnace swamp astern. Struck top gallant masts and braced the yards round."

22 Dr. Alexander Lane, who pestered the Colonial Office with letters criticising Nias' conduct, until Lord J. Russell wrote: – "This gentleman is a great coxcomb." (C.O. 209/7.)

23 Sixteen Chiefs signed the Treaty on March 4th. (Facsimile of Treaty.)

24 These minutes are still in the Public Record Office (C. O. 209/6); and they have been recently published in Hall, "Captain Nias and the Treaty of Waitangi"; but they are best forgotten.

25 Vide infra, Chapter V., the purchase of Okiato.

26 Blank in MS.

CHAPTER IV. VOYAGE TO NEW ZEALAND. MRS. MATHEW'S JOURNAL

CHAPTER IV.

VOYAGE TO NEW ZEALAND

March 2nd, Monday. – Came on board the good ship Westminster, Captain Mollison, amidst the greatest noise and confusion I ever beheld; the vessel so crowded and lumbered that there is nothing but quarrelling and fighting among all the deck passengers: men, women, children, pigs, fowls, goats, sheep and horses are all trying which shall make the most noise.... It is a calm, pleasant evening and the vessel perfectly still; she is anchored off Pinchgut....

March 3rd, Tuesday. – In the course of this day all my companions have come on board; one or two among them I think will prove valuable acquaintances. I am quite prepossessed in Mrs. Freeman's favour; I begin to think and hope that she has been cruelly calumniated; it is hard to believe that depravity can lurk under so sweet, and simple, and gentle an exterior. She is extremely fascinating; her manners so quiet, so artless, and so winning, that it is impossible to believe that she can ever have erred beyond perhaps some imprudences which, considering her youth, are almost pardonable. She appears to be much younger than I had thought her, she can scarcely be more than twenty, I imagine. Mrs. Burrowes seems a most

agreeable person, one whom, you may at once feel, it is allowable to like without hesitation. She is a quiet, ladylike person, very preferable in my opinion, to her husband. Mrs. Grimstone looks a genteel little woman, Mrs. Hayes so so, but I have not heard either speak yet. I think this is all the lady passengers. I went on shore to try and get a servant, but was unsuccessful; both my neighbours have offered me theirs for the voyage. I had no sleep last night for the heat and mosquitoes and noise, so I must try to get some tonight. It has been a beautiful day, but is close and warm down here. Thermometer 77 degrees.

March 4th, Wednesday. – This morning, about 8 o'clock, Mr. Jeffrey and Mr. Lord came on board, and took Mary back with them. We had weighed anchor and were moving slowly through the water with the help of the tide, there being scarcely any wind; however, we made some progress, and by about 11 o'clock were between the Heads when the pilot left us, and I was very soon after compelled to leave the Deck. Three days of utter misery follow, which make a blank in my journal. Mrs. Freeman and Mrs. Burrowes, who suffered but little, were very kind to me, and their servants most attentive. During all this time we made but little progress, the winds being very light and generally contrary.

March 7th, Saturday. – This day being a little better I had my mattress taken up on deck and have been lying there all day, reading at intervals "Nicholas Nickleby," and listening to Mrs. Freeman's conversation. She seems to attach herself almost exclusively to me and Dr. Johnson, who is very kind to us both; I like him very much. I like Mrs. Burrowes more and more, and hope we shall be neighbours in our new country. She has a sister married to a surgeon at Paihia, 27 who is anxiously expecting her, so I suppose we

shall lose them for a time when we get to the Bay. The winds are still so light we get on very slowly, and the heaving and rolling of the vessel is very trying. Dr. Johnson, however, insisted on my trying to walk a little this evening, and with his assistance I managed to do so for a short time, but I am very weak and often feel nearly fainting, which last is a new accomplishment for me. We suffer much from heat, which I did not expect, but this evening being very cool and pleasant I remained on deck till near 9 o'clock partly employed with Mrs. Freeman and Dr. Johnson in discussing the merits of Scott, Bulwer and James (the author of "Darnley"); this last Mrs. Freeman supported against me and the Doctor, as equal to Scott; it seems she was personally acquainted with him in Paris, and I have observed that an acquaintance with any writer very often enhances your opinion of his merits, which I attribute to a little feeling of vanity as if a sort of reflected honour devolved on you from personal association with an author of celebrity, and you are thus inclined to laud his works and look on them with as much pride as if they were your own. Mrs. Freeman is a woman of cultivated mind and talents, I think ill-directed; she reads Latin authors with apparent pleasure and writes very passable poetry with ease. She read me yesterday some pretty lines she had composed, which I criticised unmercifully, but which were in reality superior to the usual run of Annual poetry, both in subject and versification. The only thing I do not like about her is a sort of perpetual representation as it seems, but so natural, that you feel doubt whether it is display or not: her every action and every attitude is a picture, and I cannot yet satisfy myself whether all her grace, simplicity and innocence and artlessness is not in fact most exquisite acting, a thought which most ungratefully crossed my mind, while I was nearly fainting on deck, and extended on my mattress with her kneeling beside me, fanning me most

kindly, her dress most tastefully arranged, a white veil surrounding her face, and her whole form a beautiful picture. I was vexed that the thought would intrude, for it may be unjust as well as most ungrateful. She has enjoyed the advantage of long travel; France, Germany, Italy she knows well. At this time four years ago she was in the Bay of Naples; I have no such reminiscences to contrast with the Bay of Islands.

Sunday, March 8th. – The weather is fine and wind moderate; if I were but tolerably well I should almost enjoy the voyage, for my companions are all very pleasant; there are two or three equivocal looking men who form part of the cabin circle, but they do not at all interfere with our coterie. We sometimes amuse ourselves with fancying what our arrangements shall be at our new settlement. Dr. Johnson says we must, for some time at least, form a sort of mess, and have a large tent exclusively for a saloon or dining-room and so meet as at a table d'hote. I think this would be pleasant enough, and save an infinity of trouble and difficulty in domestic arrangements. I was too ill this morning to hear all Mr. Burrowes' discourse; it was indeed much too long. I was displeased, too, that he curtailed the beautiful prayers of our church, omitted the Litany, and yet kept us with his own inane nonsense till nearly noon; he is, I believe, a good man though, and I forgave him for his wife's sake, she seems such a very kind, nice creature.

In the afternoon we had a slight alarm. One of the mechanics, a hard, stern-looking Highlander, refused to take his turn in handing water out of the hold for the horses. The Sergeant and Kendall appealed to Mr. Smart, he to the Captain. The recusant, who was backed by half a dozen of his companions, was obstinate in his refusal and extremely insolent to the captain, who, at length, ordered him up on the poop as the ringleader, and as he still continued most violent in his manner and language, he was

put in irons and an armed sentry placed over him. The man is a stonemason and has a very sinister countenance. He has a wife and children, who all came screaming and rushing across the poop, but were speedily sent down again. The Captain showed the greatest firmness and decision; but still without violence or harshness, which I was much pleased to see, as he certainly endured great provocation: meantime the confusion increased on the quarter deck, and I fully expected a general rush was preparing to rescue the culprit; but Mr. Smart ordered his men to their arms and a sentry paraded the quarter deck, the malcontents withdrew forwards, still in great excitement, and then poor Mr. Galloway, 28 who has been too ill to leave his cabin before, appeared; he had been sent for, by the wife of the prisoner, in expectation that he would be wrought upon to request from the captain her husband's release; they all flocked round him. "We were placed under your charge, we will not obey anyone else," was the universal cry, or words to that effect; while his voice, weak from illness, was almost inaudible, seemed to be endeavouring to convince them that the Captain on board his ship must be obeyed by everyone there. After some altercation, and several conferences between Mr. Galloway, Mr. Smart and the Captain order and quiet was restored, poor Mr. Galloway returned quite exhausted to his bed. He looks quite the ghost of himself, and I much fear his health is very precarious. The prisoner still remaining on the poop, Dr. Johnson, who boasts himself half a Highlander, endeavoured to reason with him and convince him of the folly of his conduct, as also did the Captain, a proceeding which I thought extremely injudicious, as making the man

believe himself of much too great consequence; and it proved quite unsuccessful, for the man, being the more exasperated, only repeated his insolence, and obliged the Captain to declare that he should now apologise to him before he was released. We left the poor creature sitting by the Taffrail with his hands behind him in handcuffs, no very pleasant situation to pass a cold night in.

Monday, March 9th. – Still contrary winds and a strong current rolling us about unmercifully. I still continue very sick and miserable, but contrive to crawl on deck by about noon, and if tolerably fine usually get better towards the afternoon and evening. I found the prisoner of yesterday released: it seems he was subdued before midnight, and so escaped the night's captivity. The fact is they are very poorly supplied with provisions, some are almost starving, and that naturally makes them discontented. I was discussing French writers with Mrs. Freeman today; our mattresses are always side by side, and we pass the greater part of the day in conversation, varied sometimes with Mrs. Burrowes joining us with her work, or Dr. Johnson helping our discussions: we form a very pleasant little coterie.

Tuesday, March 10th. – The same monotony pervades which all journalists on board ship complain of. The wind has been for the last twenty-four hours freshening every hour, but still quite against us; it has blown from N. N. E. and N. W. ever since we left the Heads. Towards night it became half a gale, and I was, of course, very ill. Mrs. Freeman, who enjoys excellent spirits, strove to amuse me and Dr. Johnson with her wild Welsh Melodies, and very sweet and plaintive they are. She has a rich, splendid voice, but totally uncultivated, and she seems quite ignorant of the power she possesses. The words of her songs were also original, and her own arrangement; yet she knows not a note of music, it seems a natural gift. Poor Mrs. Bur-

rowes had a terrible fall; in passing to her own cabin, which is the stern cabin next to mine, she attempted to support herself by one of the other cabin doors, which suddenly gave way, and precipitated her under a couch in the cabin, bruising her head and side terribly, and in her very delicate situation may produce, I fear, much worse mischief. The Doctor gave her some red lavender drops first and afterwards some port wine and water, with a good dose of laudanum, and we left her asleep quietly.

Wednesday, March 11th. – Still contrary winds, but more moderate; the land of promise seems flying from us. The same unvarying round of listless idleness pervades us all, we recline all day on our mattresses on deck, reading light works, or in desultory conversation, all seem too languid for better occupation. Mrs. Burrowes very ill, we all entertain great apprehension that a premature accouchement may be the effect of her fall.

Thursday, March 12th. – As usual, very ill in the morning, but better towards evening; a beautiful calm evening, but almost without wind, but what there is against us. Mrs. Burrowes wonderfully better, and took her seat among us again. In the evening there was such a heavy dew that the doctor advised our going below earlier than usual, and as he considers us specially entrusted to his care (Mrs. Freeman and I) we always obey his behests. For want of better amusement, we made a party of whist, I and Mr. Galloway against Dr. Davies and Mrs. Freeman, Dr. Johnson occasionally assisting me, notwithstanding which we lost: I have not memory or observation enough for whist.

Friday, March 13th. – The wind today still contrary, with showers and cold, disagreeable weather; I, however, kept on deck as long as possible, feeling so much worse when below. Towards the afternoon the wind increased and changed considerably for the better: but accompanied

with cold, drizzling rain, which compelled us to remain below. We again tried to beguile the long evening with Whist, Dr. Johnson and I against Mrs. Freeman and Mr. Galloway, and this time I played better; but the ship becoming more and more uneasy, I was obliged to retire to my cabin, where I passed a miserable night, alternately sick and tossed almost out of my bed with the violent rolling and pitching of the vessel. About midnight it blew a heavy gale, which continued with unabated fury all day on.

Saturday, 14th. – The noise and confusion was absolutely deafening. I am quite sure there are not half the number of sailors necessary for a ship of this size; and I heard that the Captain depended on the assistance of some of the emigrants we have on board, but they are all such a lazy, idle set that they would never move from their berths at all if Mr. Galloway and Dr. Johnson did not go below and insist on their coming on deck. However, the weather was so bad all this day that it was quite excusable for landsmen to be glad to hide themselves anywhere. I never was in a vessel that rolled so tremendously as she does. I was twice forcibly ejected from my bed and only escaped being very much hurt by throwing my feet first, and so alighting on them, instead of my head. Everything in my cabin was disarranged, and every small article kept alternately running from side to side, my water jug was jerked out of the hole in which it seemed to ride secure, and rolled up and down the floor till broken to pieces; and every instant I watched with dread some of my larger and heavier lumber, expecting that every violent roll would loosen the fastenings and send them pell mell upon me and my devoted piano. It was without exception the most terrible day I ever spent at sea; and the Captain acknowledged that he has seldom seen such a sea, for he says it was not so much the violence of the gale, as the swell and strong contrary current which made the vessel roll so

heavily. The poor horses on the Lee side suffered terribly; they all fell down and were kicking and biting each other in the most dreadful manner, until Mr. Smart and Mr. Galloway went down and insisted on the men doing their duty and getting the poor creatures up: they are some of them very much injured. My poor beauty was fortunately on the weather side and is, I am told, quite well and saucy as ever. About ten o'clock Dr. Johnson came to my cabin door with the comforting news that the wind was fair, and the sea going down a little, and promised me a quiet night, but about midnight it again blew very hard, accompanied with very heavy rain, which, however, did not last very long, and soon after I forgot my miseries in sleep, being perfectly worn out with sickness and watching.

Sunday, March 15th. – Still miserably ill, but as the weather was finer made an effort to get on deck, where I lay all the morning extended on my mattress. It was too rough to attempt anything like reading the service publicly: but Mrs. Freeman lay by me, and we read it together: poor Mr. Burrowes suffers terribly, and was unable to appear all day. Towards the afternoon the weather improved, and all our spirits rose accordingly, as we learned at twelve o'clock the progress we had made, and that probably we should see land before sunset. Accordingly, soon after dinner the first of the Three Kings appeared, and afterwards we sighted them, all three presenting an exact resemblance to my sketch. It was a very beautiful evening, and we remained till nearly ten o'clock on the poop. We soon lost sight of the islands, but the wind falling light we did not see the mainland, but promised ourselves to rise very early in the morning for the purpose.

Monday, March 16th. – We must have passed the North Cape in the night, for we saw no land till after breakfast this morning, then it was at considerable distance. The wind, however, freshened and a tide setting us

also towards land, we rapidly neared it. It was a very beautiful morning, and I, having enjoyed a quiet night's rest, felt so much refreshed and so much better that I could feel pleasure in watching these new shores. A bold and rugged coast it seems, but not very high; the sides of the mountains seem thickly wooded, but vast patches of white sand or perhaps cliffs intervene. Off the coast we have passed numerous islets, but we keep at a very respectful distance, for our Captain, who has never been here before, is exceedingly cautious, and is so dissatisfied with his imperfect sailing directions, and the very imperfect state of the charts in these latitudes, that he will not keep so close as he might with this wind. The weather, too, has been so thick since the gale of Friday and Saturday that they have not had a good observation for some days. At noon, however, we found with delight that we must be very near our destination, and all heads were anxiously watching each opening in the coast, and we came closer in, the shores becoming more and more beautiful as we advanced. The outline is extremely rugged and broken, the sides of the mountains seem riven into deep ravines and wooded glens; the rocks and cliffs assume most romantic and picturesque forms, which imagination may easily fancy to be walls and castles, towers, turrets, houses, churches, all the works of art and all the appearances of civilised life. Many doubts were now expressed respecting a large inlet, very open; all seemed to expect this must be the long sought Bay of Islands. It fell almost calm, however, and we watched anxiously as we drifted towards the opening. At length a sail appeared in sight, evidently tacking out of this Bay, but for a long time her movements were so inexplicable, that her course was the subject of much discussion and various opinions. The wind freshened, however, this strange ship brought it up with her, and our Captain resolved to speak her. Joyfully, our vessel was put about

for the purpose, and in a short time we closed to, Captain Mollison, armed with a speaking trumpet, commenced with asking her name, where from, where to, and we found to our great satisfaction that the Bay we saw her working out of was the "Bay of Islands." She was the Victoria, had left the anchorage that morning, was on her way to Sydney; and that the Herald had come in from her cruise the day before. Still our knowledge was of little use, for the wind freshened, blew directly out of the Bay, and there was not the least chance of our getting any nearer our destination. All we could do was to stand off and on, keeping the curious perforated rock which rises on the left of the entrance, in sight, and wait for a fair wind to run in.

Tuesday, 17th March. – This morning at daylight I was on the Poop, but alas, we had drifted during the night far to sea, and our watch tower, the Perforated rock, was dimly visible through the morning mist. The wind, however, was getting up, and before breakfast we had worked up to nearly our former position, then came the land breeze, which kept us off again and now it is a calm, eheu!! A beautiful day, but very warm, our progress very, very slow, but with the assistance of the tide, we were, about noon, within the heads, which are bold and rugged, and full ten miles across. Our course was soon very interesting, every half-hour opening new points, the shores are rugged and picturesque beyond description, and by dinner time several neat houses, and patches of cultivated ground were visible. Our chart was so doubtful that Captain Mollison was evidently very uneasy, and we proceeded very slowly, the Lead going all the time. At length, about 4 o'clock, the town of Kororarika, Mr. Busby's House with the Flagstaff near it, the pretty little Village of Paihia, all opened upon us. Soon after, several boats were seen approaching and in one of them I had the supreme delight of seeing my precious husband; he was accompanied by Mr. Freeman,

and soon after they got on board we anchored in the harbour of Kororarika.

Wednesday, 18th March. – This morning the gentlemen returned on shore, and I amused myself almost all the morning in watching the various points and shores of the Bay, all so broken, so rugged, yet so green in places, as to seem to be perfectly beautiful. The weather was fine, the sea a beautiful green, not blue, like the waters of the shores of Australia. The town of Kororarika is a few scattered cottages extending along the shore, the hills rising abruptly at the back, high and precipitous, and generally clothed with some sort of vegetation, apparently fern or brushwood. In the course of the day we received a visit from Mr. Shortland and Captain Clendon, who acts as American consul and looks like a Yankee. He has a very beautiful property here, extensive stores by the waterside, and a pretty cottage residence on the rising ground behind: there are also appearances of a garden, the first I have seen. He kindly gave Mrs. Freeman and me an invitation to his house; we are to go tomorrow. In the afternoon everyone was employed getting the horses for the Mounted Police landed. The vessel lay as close as she could to a sand bank, which extended to the shore. The poor horses were lowered over the side of the ship into the water, and towed or hauled by boats through the deep water, and then they easily walked or swam to the shore: it was a cruel operation, though necessary, and they all reached the shore in safety. A tent and some men were sent to remain with them.

The gentlemen returned in the evening, and I enjoyed a lovely moonlight walk on deck till half past 10 o'clock. The report from Waimate was favourable, the Governor was much better. 29 Mr. Shortland and Dr. Johnson are to ride up there tomorrow.

Thursday, 19th March. – This morning it has been raining for several hours, and the weather is still close and gloomy; I expect our visit to Captain Clendon must depend on our moving to a better anchorage. About noon Mr. Shortland came to fetch Dr. Johnson, and they were to proceed in the boat to Paihia where the missionaries are to supply them with horses to go on to Waimate; they are expected back tomorrow when something about our future destination and further operations will have been decided on.

The rain cleared off about noon and it turned out a beautiful afternoon. After dinner Mr. and Mrs. Freeman accompanied us to Captain Clendon's. We had a delightful sail and were received with the greatest kindness and hospitality. The situation of this place is very beautiful at the head of a fine cove, sheltered on all sides. Immediately on the beach stands an extensive well-built store, with wharfs and such buildings as boat houses, etc., from which a broad road winds up a rather steep ascent to a very neat verandah cottage. The bank forms a fine lawn of thick grass, and is bordered by a few rose trees and geraniums, but all very much neglected. The top of the height gained there is an attempt at a few flower beds, but a very poor one. The view over the sea, however, is very lovely; on a height to the left waves the American Ensign, the Stripes and Stars, beneath is the American schooner, the Flying Fish and several American Whalers. At Captain Clendon's we found several officers from the Flying Fish, who seemed very gentlemanly, pleasant Yankees. This little vessel forms part of a surveying expedition sent out by the American Government for scientific purposes, and the squadron is to rendezvous here. I should be glad if they were to come in before we leave; I like what I have seen of the American Naval officers very much. Mrs. Clendon seems a very kind sort of good creature, and has a numerous

family, 30 but I cannot say much for her refinement or education; yet she has all the comforts and many of the luxuries of civilised life about her, the house is very neatly finished and seems well furnished, there is a splendid piano by Broadwood in the drawing room, but so woefully out of tune that it is quite impossible to touch it. We drank tea from splendid china served on a silver salver, and about 9 o'clock took leave of our kind hostess, whose trouble with her guests was much increased by a cross, screaming babe of 4 months old. Captain Clendon took us down to our boat, and we pulled off by the light of a beautiful moon, and enjoyed a most delightful row. Mrs. Freeman sang my favourite melody most exquisitely, and afterwards two very beautiful duets with her husband.

It was 9 o'clock when we reached the ship, and we found that during our absence there had been great disturbance with the mechanics on board and the sailors; one man was handcuffed on the poop and very noisy; it was very evident that spirits had been smuggled on board the ship in spite of every precaution to prevent it. The emigrants we have seem to be one and all the very worst of their class that could possibly be selected, and the noise and confusion with the screaming and scolding of the women and children is enough to try the patience of a meeker man than our captain, though he is kind and forbearing beyond most men.

Friday, 20th. – A very lovely morning. There was again a disturbance among the emigrants: one of the women was caught in the act of milking the goat, and, as during the voyage both the cows and the goat had been frequently feloniously deprived of their milk, to the great disappointment of the cabin passengers, the Captain was determined to make an example, and so resolved to send the delinquent

on shore to be punished. Her husband was extremely insolent to the Captain, and it ended by their being both lectured by the magistrate and warned that condign punishment would follow the next offence.

About one o'clock Mr. Mathew came to take us on shore for a walk; we landed on Kororarika Beach, which is all shingles like Deal, then walked through the town, which consists of some dozen small white cottages nearly the same size and form; they border the beach at intervals without any regularity. Among them are some native huts of neat and curious construction, which they call Rapas, and some enclosures for cultivation or that have been cultivated; the fences are composed of poles of very irregular height, the tops carved into some grotesque head. We saw several natives about, some almost black, or rather, blue, from the tattooing, but the natural colour seems to be a red or light copper colour; indeed, we saw some young persons who were scarcely darker than the Portuguese or Spaniards and other natives of the South of Europe. The women were dressed in gay coloured dresses shaped like bed gowns, and their ears ornamented with shark's tooth, and their hair very neatly smoothed and arranged, some in ringlets round the face with the back hair tied up with strips of red worsted, or twisted into a knot a la Grecque; others had it all neatly rolled up round the face like the old pictures of Queen Anne's days; some had very large combs in their hair, and all seemed well aware of their personal charms and resolved to adorn them to the best advantage. Others we saw loaded with burdens, poorly dressed and evidently slaves; they were without any ornaments, their hair tangled and dishevelled, and their whole appearance announced abasement and heavy toil. One poor creature sitting down to rest with a large and heavy basket on her shoulders, looked at me with an expression which seemed to me full of painful consciousness of her inferiority. I

shook hands with her, but we could not understand each other....

As we returned we passed some natives near the town who were boiling potatoes and greens in an iron pot. They offered us some and as we stood talking or trying to talk to them, they very politely took up a small bit of stick with which they took up a potatoe and offered to each, then looking about for a green leaf lest we should burn our fingers....

Mr. Shortland brought the news of the Governor's recovery; he is very much better, and Dr. Johnson remained with him more as companion than medical adviser. Mr. Mathew will have to go next week....

Sunday, March 22nd. – This morning broke with rain, which continued till after breakfast, and we feared would prevent our going to church: but as the rain ceased we determined to venture notwithstanding it still threatened; it was blowing, too, very fresh, and we found it rather difficult to effect a landing at Paihia, for there is a great surf rolling in on the beach. However, we succeeded with very little wetting and were just in time. The church is a very neat little building like a schoolroom with a sort of pulpit at one end and a small organ at the other; it is a barrel organ and plays the Psalm tunes very well. The service was performed by Mr. Burrowes, whom I like less than ever, for being no longer strictly confined to the rules and customs of our liturgy, he launched forth in the usual whine and rant of dissenters in general, and both before and after a tolerable sermon, he gave us an extemporaneous effusion of the greatest nonsense possible. There were not above twenty or thirty persons including children present; there were about the same number of natives outside, but they did not join us, having had the service performed for them in their own language at 8 o'clock in the morning.

After church, we went to call on Mrs. Burrowes, who

is staying with her sister, Mrs. Ford, the cottage is very near the church and is a neat, little modern building of two or three rooms. I do not like Mrs. Ford at all; she is very inferior to her sister, and the whole aspect of the place seemed dirty and uncomfortable, which I should imagine it need not be. Their only child, a boy about six years old, has the most extraordinary, forbidding countenance I ever saw. The cottage stands in a pretty little glen facing the sea with a narrow stream of beautiful water running through it; the situation is beautiful, and a little care and taste might make it a lovely spot. The weather cleared off in the afternoon, and being much disgusted with the Fords, we soon returned to the ship, and after dinner sailed in our boat down the harbour to see what vessel it was coming in. We were much pleased to find it was the schooner Columbine, supposed to have been lost in the late gales.

Thursday, 26th. – Felton and Mr. Shortland and Mr. Smart set off after breakfast to Waimate and the rest of the passengers prepared to take up their abode on shore. Mr. and Mrs. Grimstone, Mr. and Mrs. Hayes had their tents set up, and after dinner left the ship. I went on shore with Mr. Galloway and Mr. and Mrs. Freeman, and, leaving them on the beach, walked with Mr. Galloway up the hill, on which he is erecting a flagstaff. He has great difficulty in getting the men to work, and has been very much troubled by them. It is a very commanding height, and the view from the top is most beautiful. I enjoyed the scene extremely, and was fully repaid the labour of ascending the hill. There is a narrow foot path and not so encumbered with holes and brush as in most of the paths I have yet seen on these rugged shores. There is a panorama from the summit, the open sea beyond the Heads, the varied outline of the rugged hills around, and the smooth, glassy waters of the Bay, glittering with the rays of the setting sun, the vessels at anchor, their masts and

spars forming dark lines on the shining water, formed altogether a most lovely scene. We saw several women, evidently slaves, employed in collecting wood: heavy burdens they bore, poor creatures, on their backs, and looked miserable and desponding. Returning to the beach we proceeded to visit the huts of our companions. They are pitched by the side of a small brook in a pretty little valley, called "Dingley Dell" by the proprietor, and looked very comfortable. Some of them are quite new to a tent life, and will, I fear, find much discomfort if the weather should change: at present nothing can be more beautiful, neither too hot, nor too cold: if the climate is usually like this nothing can be more delightful....

Saturday, March 28th. – Went on shore early this morning, called on Mrs. Freeman and afterwards went to Mr. Clayton's stores to purchase a few things to take with us to barter with the natives. The store was surrounded with a motley assembly of natives, men, women and children, and such a set of Europeans I never beheld. Some who, from birth and education, should have been gentlemen, no longer presented the slightest trace of having ever seen civilised life: a sort of reckless vulgarity and impudence characterised them all and I was glad to transact my business and get away from such a scene of noise and confusion.

After leaving some of our boat party on board the ship, we went over to Paihia to fetch our good friend Dr. Johnson, who was to return from Waimate today. We also took the opportunity to call on Mr. Williams the Missionary. He was unfortunately out, but Mrs. Williams received us. She is a plain sort of motherly person, has been in the country 17 years, and has a large family of raw, uncouth boys and girls, nowise superior to the currency lads and lasses of Australia. I was much disappointed in all the children I have seen; they are generally ugly, sickly looking little creatures; and the children of the natives are

not so fine a race as I expected: they look thin and sickly and much lighter in colour than I should have thought; it is probable, however, that those I have seen are half-caste.

Sunday, March 29th. – A beautiful day. We went to church at Paihia, heard a long extempore sermon from Mr. Mason. Afterwards we enjoyed a beautiful long walk along the beach to the mouth of the Waitangi river. There is more sand here than on the Kororarika side, and large banks of broken shells. I picked up a few good shells, but not of any rare or beautiful sorts: cockles and mussels are most abundant. We returned on board for dinner.

Tuesday, 31st. – This morning having reached as near the shore as the ship could venture, the rest of the horses were landed, having been more than a month in the ship; they were all looking extremely well, and my "beauty" almost as gay as ever. I went to the shore to see him and afterwards called on Mrs. Clendon. The American Commodore's ship Vincennes had come in in the night and we found a large mail landed at Clendon's stores, of which we took possession. From one of the American officers we learnt that they had discovered a large extent of Southern continent and run down the coast from 154 deg. 18 to 99 deg. 45 east Long., about 1,700 miles, had brought specimens of the soil and of the rocks, thus establishing an undoubted claim to the honour of the discovery. They represent it as a dreary and most desolate coast, not a living creature was seen, but they are, of course, elated with the honour of having made the discovery, though it is not likely to be of any utility. 31 Felton and I enjoyed a delightful walk or rather scramble through a deep, thickly wooded glen at the mouth of the Wycatti [Waikare]. There is a small stream

of beautiful water running through it, and trees of beautiful foliage and great height almost shut out the daylight. The ground is covered with an extraordinary variety of splendid ferns, and the path quite encumbered with parasitical plants and canes. We followed its wanderings for some distance, but finding it emerged on to the heights near to the back of Captain Clendon's we did not follow it out, but returned the same way to our boat, and after changing my dress we went to Kororarika, where we were engaged to dine al fresco at the new flagstaff in honour of Mrs. Freeman's birthday. It was late before the party were assembled, and so cold that we were glad to amuse ourselves with making a large fire, which, piled with huge trees, flamed like a beacon, and must have been discerned for miles round. It was late before we reached the ship and the waters were beautifully phosphorescent, splashing like liquid silver with every dip of the oars. On the way a guardfish jumped into the boat and was retained to help out a dish of fish for the morning's breakfast, much against my will; the poor thing should have been restored to its native element.

April 1st. – In the morning received a visit from Mr. Williams, the head of the Church Missionary Establishment. He is a man of rather prepossessing manners and far superior to any of the missionaries I have seen; I should think him a man of far superior birth and education to any of the others and he has besides a countenance indicating shrewdness and intelligence. He has given us a letter to the chiefs of the tribes near the Thames, which I hope will be of use to us in case of any hostile collision with any of the natives in that neighbourhood; it seems they are in a rather disturbed state at present and do not seem quite to understand the terms on which we have entered their country. Mr. Williams is on the point of starting on an expedition through the country in order to explain matters

to them and conciliate their favour and acquiescence. 32 He has great influence over them which, I believe, he exerts in a most exemplary manner for their good. After dinner we were going to Kororarika to see Mr. Shortland on business of importance, but as we neared the beach we observed a boat with oars erect, evidently a signal, and pulling towards them we found it was Mr. Shortland's boat with himself, Mr. Perry and Mr. Freeman going over to Paihia. The former joined us in our boat, and we all crossed the Bay together. We went to Mr. Baker's, which is by far the best and largest cottage I have seen there. He has let it to the Governor and we found the family in all the confusion attending on packing and removing. Mr. Shortland went over the house with Mr. Baker in order to ascertain what preparations were necessary to be made for the accommodation of the Governor and his family, as Mrs. Hobson is expected almost every day in the Buffalo, and he is anxious to leave Waimate where he has been staying so long now that his health is partially restored. I found Mrs. Baker surrounded with children, of course, and a very good sort of person she seems to be. She has been here upwards of thirteen years, and is quite sorry to leave Paihia. They are going to a farm they possess about 12 or 14 miles up the Waicate river, a tributary of the Bay.

April 2nd, – Employed all morning writing; in the afternoon went on shore to a small Bay near Captain Clendon's, where tents are pitched for mechanics and labourers and their families, whom we brought down. It was very desirable to get them out of the ship as speedily as possible, and we found them established as comfortably as could be expected considering the small number of tents

for so great a number of people. Two families are allotted to each square tent, and in two large marquees there are seven families in each. The children are all young, but where they put them I cannot imagine unless they hang them up in bags round the walls of the tents. We walked round the little valley, which is as secluded and snug a spot as can be imagined, the hills rising almost perpendicular at the back, covered with thick fern brushwood, and shut in on one side by a mangrove flat covered with water at high tide and on the other by a rugged precipitous rocky point, covered with trees, some of very thick and luxuriant foliage looking beautifully green. Nearly at the top of this promontory is a small spot of level ground where Mr. Mason and Mr. Galloway have pitched their tents; this is quite away from, yet overlooking the men in the valley.

April 3rd. – Today Mr. Shortland, Felton and Mr. Baker went up the Waicate to settle some dispute with the natives, in consequence of the Government having bought the right of cutting some timber there from the Europeans, whom it seems the natives deny to have any right to the land in question.

April 4th. – This morning I went on shore to see our tent pitched on the height near Mr. Galloway's. I had previously observed large numbers of canoes full of natives paddling up to Captain Clendon's wharf, and all the time we were on shore I saw that more were continually arriving, and among them some very large and highly ornamented war-canoes with perhaps 50 people in each. As they all landed and formed groups about that spot and were kindling fires and bringing baskets of potatoes out of their canoes, we concluded that something was going forward, so after our tent was pitched we called at Captain Clendon's and found that King "Pomaree," whose Pah or village is near the mouth of the Waicate not far from Captain Clendon's, had come down to receive a present of rice and

sugar from the American Commodore. He had brought his whole tribe, I believe, men, women and children, and they were going to dance the war dance for the amusement of the Yankees. A number of chiefs with old Pomaree were clustered round the doors of the Store, and all were talking and vociferating to each other; they appeared to me, however, sullen, and I fancied gave us some scowling looks which I did not much like, their wild variety of dress and the curiously tattooed faces giving them an air of ferocity which would render them as enemies perfectly terrific. Their war dance is exactly as described by Captain Cook, and accompanied by the most horrid yelling or howling that can be imagined: it is not like a human sound at all, nothing resembles it so much as the roar of the wild beasts in a menagerie at feeding time.

The evening closed in with heavy rain; Mrs. Freeman had gone to Waitangi to meet her husband, and in the meantime Mr. Shortland waited for her here. There had been some rumour of an alarming nature during the day, which we thought little of, respecting the disposition of the natives towards us; but on Mrs. Freeman's return we found that she had been across to Kororarika (not finding Mr. Freeman at the landing place) believing that he might have got across in some other boat, and that she had found the greatest alarm and agitation prevailing among the European population; many were under arms on the beach and all were convinced that there would be an attack from the natives during the night. All the boats were put in requisition both from the ship and cutter, and the crews being well armed and headed by all the gentlemen, they set off to Kororarika. Mrs. Freeman remained to pass the night with me. They returned about midnight with the intelligence that all was perfectly quiet among the natives, and the fears of the Europeans were on very slight foundation as to any immediate danger. I believe that the natives

really are in a state of great excitement and are ready on the first provocation to commence hostilities. It seems there are interested ill-disposed persons among them (white people) who persuade them that the Government are going to take their land from them and will make slaves of them, making them work for them, and such like stories which have so inflamed their minds against the Government that they are ripe for mischief.

April 5th, Sunday. – Went to church at Paihia, heard Mr. Wilson perform the service. He is the most doleful, whining, miserable creature imaginable; quite dismal enough to make anyone afraid of the religion he pretends to teach, excepting those who know and feel that it need not be a religion of fear or sorrow, but of "love and joy and peace in Christ Jesus." Mr. Shortland joined us and afterwards, while he was conversing with Mr. Wilson, we went to call on Mrs. Williams. She was engaged with an invalid visitor, but her daughter and son were with us, and Mrs. Wilson, the mother of the dismal preacher; she is quite tired of the country already, and is on the point of returning to Sydney.

While there the Chaplain of the American Frigate Vincennes came in. He is a very pleasant, well informed and conversible Yankee, and we chatted away on all sorts of subjects, literary and scientific, for some time. I am quite sorry to find they are to go away tomorrow. I should like very much to accompany them on their tour: they are going to visit the islands of the South Pacific – Tonga, Fijees, Tahiti, and then up the West coast of America and the new settlement of "Astoria," Columbia.

Monday, 6th April. – In the morning I watched the American Squadron get under weigh and slowly sail down the harbour; they are beautiful vessels, a Frigate, Brig and Schooner. Mrs. Clendon came to call on me and brought King and Queen Pomaree and all their court to see me; she

advised me to receive them with much consideration, as Pomaree was a very powerful chief, and had much influence among his people; so I, of course, made myself as amiable as possible, though much disgusted with the odious savages; they seemed so conceited and so perfectly indifferent in their manner towards us as if they were conferring an honour by their visit – a set of dirty, disgusting savages. There were a few ugly little children, most of them squalid, filthy and diseased; only one good looking woman I saw, she was a girl of about 15 perhaps, and daughter to some powerful chief at the Thames, come down on a visit to her aunt, Queen Pomaree. She manifested a great desire to stay with me, and Mrs. Clendon recommended me strongly to take her down to the Thames with me. I shall endeavour to do so, as I think I might acquire some knowledge of the language from her conversation. In the afternoon we went to Kororarika, drank tea with her and Mrs. Grimstone; the latter seemed still to feel some apprehension and has been exposed to much annoyance, since she has been in her tent, from the misconduct of her servant. It is, of course, most difficult to find servants of any kind here, but certainly it is best to be without than to have such a one as Mrs. Imy has proved herself to be.

Tuesday, 7th April. – Went on shore to the tents, in Pipiroa Bay, and afterwards enjoyed a long and beautiful walk over the hills at the back of Captain Clendon's. We traversed part of the site of the intended town [i.e., "Russell"]; the country seems everywhere the same, hills and dales covered with thick brushwood, the real scrub of New South Wales, and divided by deep ravines and gullies full of luxuriant vegetation, tangled vines, lofty trees of rich, clustering foliage, the graceful tree-fern and a sort of tufted reed-like grass tree of very bright vivid green; the ground covered in many places by a most delicate carpet of a peculiarly beautiful creeping fern. The variety and

beauty of the ferns is quite extraordinary, but not a flower did I see today in the whole course of our walk, but the little scarlet pimpernel twice and one little blue flower like the flax in New South Wales. In the evening went on shore, were joined on Captain Clendon's wharf by Mr. Shortland and Mr. and Mrs. Freeman; we then called on Mrs. Clendon and fixed to go to Pomaree's Pah, and afterwards drink tea with her tomorrow evening....

Thursday, 9th April. – This day I witnessed a curious and interesting ceremony. We had dined at Kororarika with Mrs. Freeman and afterwards were walking towards Dingley Dell to call on Mrs. Grimstone, when we observed a number of large canoes approaching the Beach. All the natives were assembled on the Beach, and as the canoes appeared commenced shouting and waving their various garments, and all flocked towards the landing place; many rushed into the water to assist in dragging the canoes up the beach; the warriors threw off their blankets and, jumping out of the canoes, separated into parties in order to begin their war dance. This seems to be a mimic combat: the two parties approach each other with a most terrific yell or howl, brandishing their paddles and jumping in exact time with each other, then separating again, each group keeping close to their own people and again rushing together with a noise more resembling the roar of wild beasts than anything else. This performed several times is the whole figure. The men jump to a great height and their violent gesticulations seem soon to exhaust them. They all then threw themselves into their canoes, threw on their blankets and proceeded a little further up the beach, where the canoes were finally drawn up dry and the whole party, after adorning themselves with all the mats and blankets they possessed, walked in procession to the house of the principal chief of Kororarika, "Moka." He was absent, but that seemed no matter; about a dozen or more

of the principal chiefs sat round the door of the house and then three by turns walked up and down a space, talking most vehemently, sometimes quickening their pace to a run or a sort of trot; and gesticulating violently, the others preserving absolute silence and apparently listening most attentively to the speaker. The whole group was surrounded by a mixed crowd of inferior natives and Europeans. After leaving "Moka's" enclosure we proceeded on our walk; I observed a number of natives near, making a sort of basket of twisted reeds, evidently intended as preparation for the feast, as others were bringing up quantities of pigs and potatoes from the canoes; these appeared to be slaves, though some were very fine looking men. The old women were also very busy at this work, and all seemed happy in welcoming their friends. They had come up from the Thames.

Friday, 10th April. – This morning after breakfast the young princess "Ariu" came on board, with her attendants; she was evidently come to spend the day with me as she gaily sat herself down beside me and began chatting away. I was obliged to get her a clean dress, for the filthy garment she wore was absolutely intolerable to my olfactory nerves. My dress fitted her tolerably, and I was glad to find as I dressed her that she was cleaner in her person than was to be expected from the state of her dress. She is a laughing, good-tempered damsel, and I think I could manage to learn a little of the language from her as she seems quick and intelligent; but I find I have very little patience for the task and I expect it requires a good deal. The two girls she brought with her seem to treat her with great deference and regard, and she seems to behave towards them with a sort of affectionate superiority. They were all suffering from coughs and cold in the head, which made them very disagreeable companions, and I was heartily glad when they departed....

Sunday, 12th April. – The morning too wet to go to church, but clearing up about noon, we got into our boat with our books and pulled across to a beautiful sandy bay at the entrance to a small creek which I call Mangrove Creek from the numbers of those trees which border the banks. We landed and sent the boatmen to their dinners desiring them to return afterwards for us. We read and strolled along the shore. Felton made a beautiful little sketch of Wahapu, a pretty bay, and rising ground on the opposite shore belonging to a Mr. Wright, where he has erected stores and a very nice looking cottage and an enclosed garden. On the shore I picked up a large mass of the Kaudi gum; it is very singular that though all traces of this tree are lost in the neighbourhood, yet everywhere quantities of gum may be found scattered over the surface, indicating that at some distant period it must have been very abundant; how to account for its total disappearance is a problem yet to be solved. Returned on board to dinner and afterwards rowed up the "Kawa-Kawa" river a few miles. At the mouth of this river is the large Pah belonging to Pomaree in a very strong position on the summit of a high promontory. It contains a number of Rapoo houses or huts, and one of the neatest looking is a church where native missionaries perform the services. I wished very much to land and go up as they were at evening services when we passed, and we distinctly heard them singing a hymn to the tune of "God Save the King," with stentorian voices. I suppose there must have been a hundred at least. King Pomaree is not a Christian, but he allows his subjects to become so and even his children; he says it is good for them, but for himself the religion of his Fathers is good enough and he will not give it up; but I believe the truth to be that he will not give up those vices and practices which even the outward assumption of Christianity would compel him to do. His character generally, however, is said to be

greatly improved of late years.

Monday, 13th April. – Showery all day, did not leave the ship. Captain Clendon dined with us. All the party assembled after dinner and presented Captain Mollison with a purse and inscription for a piece of plate as a token of regard and thanks for his attention and kindness to us during the passage from Sydney.

Tuesday, 14th April. – Wet morning, thunder and lightning. Mr. Galloway started on his expedition up the Kawa-Kawa. About noon cleared, evening wet and dreary.

Thursday, 16th. – Nothing to note occurred yesterday. The weather was showery and cold with very heavy sea. We only wait fine weather to depart in the Cutter on our important expedition. At noon heard guns firing regularly; evidently a salute, and a report was rife that the Buffalo, with the Governor's family, had arrived. While we were at dinner Mr. Shortland came on board and confirmed the report, having just landed Mrs. Hobson from the vessel at Paihia, where Mr. Baker's house was fortunately ready for her reception, having been for some days ready for the Governor, who had been detained by the weather still at Waimate, though hourly expected. After dinner we sailed down to Kororarika to get our letters; found several. The Governor arrived at Paihia during our stay and Dr. Johnson returned with us to the Westminster.

Good Friday, April 17th. – Went to Paihia to church, afterwards called on Mrs. Hobson, found her well and the Governor much better; then went to Captain Clendon's to take leave of them. Major Bunbury joined us after church and accompanied us to "Okiato" – beautiful day.

Saturday, 18th April. – Finally left the Westminster. Captain Mollison accompanied us in our boat to Kororarika, where we landed for a few minutes and took leave of Mr. and Mrs. Freeman. I left the ship and her kind,

liberal Captain with regret, he has treated us with great attention and regard, and we shall be delighted to see him again in any quarter of the world.

27 Dr. S. H. Ford.

28 J. J. Galloway, who was going to act as Assistant-Surveyor to Mathew. His health proved unequal to the task; he returned to Sydney and died shortly afterwards.

29 Captain Hobson, after leaving the Herald, was taken to the missionary station at Waimate to recuperate.

30 Clendon had six children at this stage.

31 See Commander C. Wilkes, "Narrative of U. S. Expedition, 1838-1842" (2 vols., 1852).

32 Rev. H. Williams sailed in Capt. Clayton's vessel, the Ariel, and obtained signatures at Port Nicholson, Cloudy Bay, Rangitoto (Cook Strait), Kapiti, Waikanae, and Wanganui. (Treaty, Facsimile.)

CHAPTER V. RUSSELL – THE FIRST "CAPITAL"

CHAPTER V.

RUSSELL – THE FIRST "CAPITAL"

AN EDITORIAL NOTE

Hobson's illness delayed the immediate selection of a site for the principal capital, since the Lieutenant-Governor was unwilling to leave so important a matter to be determined by his subordinate officers. It became necessary, therefore, to fix on a place at the Bay of Islands to form a secondary settlement and to serve temporarily as the seat of the government. The arrival of the storeship Westminster on March 17th with immigrants, for whom no accommodation had been provided, made this a matter of urgency.

On March 23rd, Felton Mathew reported at length on the possibilities of forming a settlement at the Bay. A precis of his letter will suffice to indicate his views: –

The Bay of Islands (he considered) was not eligible as the site of the principal settlement or capital, because of its geographical position at the extreme end of the Island, and because of the rugged, impracticable nature of the country. But as there was already a

[Inserted unpaginated illustration]

Sketch-Map of the BAY OF ISLANDS.
to illustrate Felton Mathew's Journal-Letters.

large population there, and much capital had been invested, and as it was an important port of call for whaling ships, it was necessary that a Government establishment should be formed there.

The principal difficulty was that so much of the available land was already claimed and occupied by Europeans.

Kororareka was unfit for the site of the principal settlement, and could never become a place of more than secondary importance, because (i) the water near the beach was very shallow, the bay exposed to N. and N. W. winds, and it was often difficult to effect a landing by boats through the surf; and (ii) the amount of land available for building was insignificant, and what there was was in the hands of private individuals, by whom it had been divided and sub-divided, sold and resold until there was such a mass of conflicting claims that it would be very difficult for the Government to effect a purchase.

As to the "town" of Victoria, which Busby had laid out at Waitangi, its shores were exposed and shoal, so as to be quite inaccessible to ships, and only approachable by boats in perfectly fair weather. "This spot does not present one solitary advantage as a site for a settlement."

J. R. Clendon's property near Point Omata (Okiato) was, in Mathew's judgment, "the only spot in the Bay of Islands at all suitable for a settlement, or calculated for the purposes of the Government." It had deep water close to the shore, which afforded safe

anchorage, the lie of the land was favourable for a township, there was abundant water, firewood and brick-earth, and admirable facilities for internal communication via the Kawa-kawa river. Clendon had built "a very comfortable cottage with suitable buildings, an extensive and substantial store, office, smith's shop, boat-builder's shed, etc., the whole of which are in good repair, and would be immediately available for the purposes of the Government." There were incalculable advantages to be derived from possession of the spot. The expense of erecting buildings, which in the existing scarcity of materials would be very heavy, would be saved; and the sale of Town lots would afford an immediate and considerable revenue. "I cannot but express a decided opinion that the purchase of this land from Mr. Clendon, on anything like fair and reasonable terms, would be highly advantageous to the Government, that the outlay of money would be covered by the first sale of town allotments, and that the completion of the measure would lay the foundation for a very important and flourishing settlement." 33

Clendon, well aware of the value of his site, had laid it out as a Township and commenced selling lots. His operations were held up by the rumour that Hobson intended to select Busby's "town" for the Government. This rumour was, in due course, disposed of, but before resuming his private sales, Clendon offered his land to the Government for the sum of £23,000. Negotiation brought this figure down to £15,000, and on

March 22nd, a preliminary agreement for purchase was signed by Felton Mathew, confirmed by Hobson a month later.

AGREEMENT.

"H. M. Government agrees to purchase from Captain Clendon his property at Okiato in the Bay of Islands, said to contain by measurement Two hundred and thirty acres, together with all buildings and improvements thereon and also another portion of Land supposed to contain 80 Acres, immediately adjoining the said property of Okiato, for the sum of Fifteen Thousand Pounds, payable as follows, viz.: One Thousand Pounds to be paid in Cash on taking possession, One Thousand Pounds on the 1st of October proximo, and the remainder to bear Interest at 10 per Cent, per Annum, H. M. Government having the option of paying off the whole or any portion of the Principal on giving 3 Months' notice in writing to that effect. The first half year's Interest to be payable on the 1st of April, 1841. Possession of the whole to be given by the 1st of May proximo. Bay of Islands, 22nd March, 1840.

(Signed) FELTON MATHEW, S.Gl."

This agreement was subsequently endorsed: –

"Approved subject to the decision of the Commissioners as to the title to the Land. The Buildings are valued at Thirteen Thousand Pounds Sterling, and the Land at Two Thousand Pounds. Bay of Islands, 23rd April, 1840.

(Signed) W. Hobson, Lt. Governor." 34

The price agreed upon was high, but not exorbitant in view of the scarcity of labour and materials. The annual rental value of the several premises at Okiato was taken as the basis for fixing the purchase price, being reckoned at £850 p.a. for the store, £70 for the dwelling house, £30 for the small cottage, £60 for the blacksmith's shop, and £90 for the Carpenter's shop – total, £1,300 a year; the Government agreeing on ten times this sum as a fair capital evaluation of the property. It is safe to assume that it would have cost the Government at least as much to erect similar buildings for themselves, even if a suitable site could have been found. Indeed, it is not easy to see what reasonable alternative the Government had. Land on which to disembark the immigrants, and buildings for barracks and Government offices they had to have somewhere in the Bay, to serve during the months that must ensue before the permanent capital was established. Okiato was the only eligible site Mathew could find. Paihia, incidentally, he disregarded altogether, presumably out of deference to the missionaries, who would certainly not be disposed to welcome an official invasion. Clendon, with an eye to a good bargain, refused to rent his premises, and insisted on sale – if not to the Government, then to private speculators. So the Government, impecunious as it was, found itself committed to a capital expenditure of £15,000 for a site which it would only occupy for ten or twelve months. On May 23rd, Hobson took up his official residence at Okiato, 35

re-named "Russell" in honour of the Colonial Secretary.

Financially, this arrangement might have been carried through successfully had there been no interference from New South Wales. Mathew, confidently counting on meeting the expense of purchase by re-sale of town lots, rapidly completed the survey of the place, and by the end of July the Plan of the Town was ready and preparations were made for the first sale. 36 At this stage, however, Governor Gipps intervened decisively by refusing to sanction the purchase of Okiato and forbidding the town lots to be advertised in the Gazette, thus, in effect, prohibiting the sale; nor would he go further than consent to the payment of a fair rent for the buildings which the Government were using. This put a complete stop to the development of Russell, though the Government remained in possession till the following March. Failing the anticipated revenue from land sales, the New Zealand Government could not discharge its obligations to Clendon, who was much embarrassed in consequence. Eventually, in July, 1841, Clendon, who had received only the first instalment of £1,000, was prevailed upon to accept £1,250 as compensation for rent and interest, and a Crown grant of 10,000 acres in lieu of capital outstanding. Even this did not turn out to his satisfaction, for, as the value of country lands fell heavily, his 10,000 acres at Papakura became little more than an investment in long-distance futures. The market

price in 1845 was under 1/6d. an acre, and Clendon complained to Lord Stanley that he had lost £18,000 in capital and accumulated interest. Felton Mathew, who was largely responsible for the original contract, recorded his opinion in his diary that Clendon "was scandalously used by the Government."

33 Great Britain, Parliamentary Papers, 1842/569.

34 Copy in Clendon MSS.

35 After the removal of the Government to Auckland, the name "Russell" was gradually transferred to Kororareka, and Okiato was practically abandoned.

36 Mathew carefully explains in his despatch of July 28 why he has reserved a site for the abattoir or slaughter-house, but none for a parsonage. Spiritual food could be dispensed from Paihia, but meat must be killed on the spot.

CHAPTER VI. SECOND VISIT TO THE WAITEMATA

CHAPTER VI.

SECOND VISIT TO THE WAITEMATA

[Any question as to the essentially temporary character of the "capital" at Russell is settled by the fact that on April 6th, before the Agreement with Clendon was confirmed, Felton Mathew was instructed to proceed south in the Revenue Cutter Ranger, to select as speedily as possible an eligible site for the chief settlement and seat of Government. He was to visit the harbours of Whangarei and Mahurangi, but his attention was particularly directed to the spot on the south shore of the Waitemata, which he had visited with the Governor in February, and which had appeared at first sight to possess distinct advantages.

Mathew, accompanied by his wife, embarked on the Ranger on the 18th April, and in a cruise which lasted nearly two months touched at every important inlet between the Bay of Islands and the mouth of the River Thames, and made a careful examination of Whangarei, Mahurangi, the Waitemata and the Tamaki. Mrs. Mathew's Journal gives a good description of this voyage. Her account is followed by a digest of Felton Mathew's official report, in which he dismissed the

site on the Waitemata indicated by Hobson as "totally unfit for the site of the principal settlement, and indeed ill-adapted for a settlement at all," and recommended instead that the capital be built on the Tamaki. – Ed.]

MRS. MATHEW'S JOURNAL (continued)

Saturday, 18th April. – ... Went on board the "cutter" as she was beating out with very little wind; soon became sick and sad and went to bed.

Sunday, 19th April. – A fine warm day, but very little wind, mere rolling about in sight of the Perforated Rock all day; sick and miserable of course, lying on cloaks on the deck till night, when, a breeze springing up, the vessel became much easier.

Monday, 20th April. – At daylight were off the heads of Wangari Bay, the wind very light but with the tide we got in and anchored about 10 a.m. I went on deck about 8 o'clock, and as we drifted in close to the shore, I was perfectly delighted and lost almost all sense of sea-sickness in the bold magnificent scenery it presented; such lofty craggy heights I never saw, the sides of them generally covered with trees and beautifully green; the summits were broken into pinnacles and masses of rocks resembling towers and walls and bastions; indeed very little help of the imagination might transfer the scene to the banks of the Rhine. The birds were singing beautifully in the woods.

A boat was lowered as soon as the cutter anchored and we started away to explore the upper part of the harbour and river of "Wangari." A heavy shower of rain came on, but we buffeted it stoutly and with the help of cloaks were determined to care for nothing. We left a

canoe full of natives alongside the cutter and they, as well as the crew, were pulling up the fish as fast as the hooks were thrown; very fine fish they are – schnappers, gurnet and what is called salmon in these seas. We reached the mouth of the river and landed on a shelly beach intending to climb the highest shore and look around us, but very heavy rain coming on and the sides of the steep ascent from the beach being thickly tangled with fern and brushwood we found it was impracticable, and returned to our boat. On the beach we found running in veins between the strata of rocks some very curious specimens of a sort of thin spar exactly resembling the Derbyshire spar. From the opposite or North shore we procured some masses of what seems to be manganese. There are no shells of any beauty to be found here. The North shore is fringed with mangroves and landing is difficult.

We were wet and cold, having been in repeated showers all day, so we were glad to return to the cutter about 5 p.m. Found the natives whom we left in the morning still on board. The old chief was invited to the Cabin to drink tea with us. He seems a very intelligent old fellow, and though we could not understand each other very well yet we managed to keep him in perfect good humour, and he drank his tea in a very civilised manner and even eat his fish with a fork till hunger prevailed and he was obliged to take the assistance of his fingers to expedite the business.

Tuesday, 21st April. – Started early fully prepared to proceed up the river as far as navigable, and to camp if necessary. The river is wide and has a deep channel on the north side, which we followed, taking the tide with us. The shores are high, broken and wooded, on the southern shore thickly fringed with mangroves, and as we afterwards found very shoal, quite a mud flat for many miles at low water. We proceeded merrily up this very beautiful

river till about noon when, on suddenly turning a road, we came in view of a small rapoo house evidently the abode of Europeans, being larger than the huts the natives construct for themselves in this manner. The crowing of a cock, too, is a most civilised sound, and in this country a very uncommon one. As we approached, two men came out to reconnoitre. I was glad to see they were both white men. We pulled into the landing place, where lay a canoe, and a fine whale boat was carefully drawn up on the land near. There was at a little distance a pah or native village and several New Zealanders were hanging about the place. The proprietor is a Scotsman, a settler from Illawaora, and had been there about six months; he seemed very glad to see our party. He had some land in cultivation and plenty of pigs. Our men landed and cooked their dinner in the house; we took some luncheon in the boat and then walked about a little, but the ground is everywhere so encumbered with fern, scrub, and reeds that we could not go far. A narrow path full of holes of water led to the pah, but rain coming on and it being very muddy and very disagreeable walking we returned to the boat. The gude-man gave us a basket of fine Potatoes for a few figs of Tobacco, and then we took leave of him and proceeded up the river, which now narrows very suddenly, and about a mile farther is lost in a mangrove swamp, or becomes only a little mountain stream so encumbered with these mangroves as to be quite useless.

We returned, and were surprised at the different appearance the river now presented. It was, in many parts, merely a narrow winding stream, on either side a vast extent of sand banks covered with mangroves, among which millions of waterfowls were enjoying themselves. It was now getting late and we anxiously looked out for a place to camp, but in vain; it was impossible to reach either shore from the mud flats which extended from them and

a fine breeze now springing up, we determined to run for the harbour and get on board the Cutter. First, however, we tried to land on the Point we yesterday reached, and which we now found was an island, but though we could reach it we could not find on it a level spot large enough for a single tent, so encumbered is it all around that no footing scarcely could be made on it. So we stretched on till about the middle of the bay a squall of wind and rain set in so thick upon us that we were compelled to lower our sail and take to the oars, for the water was so shoal and the darkness so great that we could not venture to run before the gale. Indeed, I was quite terrified, for our little boat is but a frail one for these seas in such a squall and so laden as ours then was. Meantime we pulled on in the darkness wondering where the Cutter could be. She had certainly left the anchorage she had occupied in the morning and it was now so dark we could see nothing 20 yards from the boat. We then fired a shot in hopes she would answer and the sound would guide us. Anxiously we listened for some time; no reply. I fully expected we should pass the night in the boat, at least till the moon rose, and being very wet and cold the prospect was not cheering. We pulled on, however, towards a little glimmering on the shore which we thought might proceed from the huts of some natives, and again fired a shot which was this time answered, and then a light was hoisted by the Cutter, then scarcely 100 yards from us though not in the place we had left her in the morning. She had heard our first shot, but not expecting our return, had fancied it was merely the chief who had paid them a visit in the morning and to whom they had lent a musket to shoot some pigeons.

Wednesday, April 22nd. – Started about 9 a.m. to examine the southern shore, which at a distance seems comparatively low and level and has a curious wall of white rocks extending along a considerable part of it. Approach-

ing it we found it to be about a uniform height of perhaps 30 or 40 feet with deep water very near the shore. We looked out for a spot to land and finding a little opening ran the boat in and landed under these white rocks which we were so anxious to examine. To our great astonishment we found this rock to be nothing but sand, so soft that most of it crumbled beneath the touch and wholly unfit for building or any purpose. On reaching the top of the heights a large plain covered with fern and brushwood extended a considerable distance inland, and then fell suddenly into a vast mangrove swamp which seems to reach the foot of the hills in the background, only intersected by narrow streams of water – the whole scene most desolate and gloomy.

We returned to our boat, and after sounding across the Bay we landed again on the southern shore nearer the entrance, where the white sand wall was much lower, and indeed was evidently but the washing up of the tide. The water was shoal far out but we determined to look over the land in this direction, so leaving the men to make a fire of driftwood and get their dinner we set off inland but were soon stopped by streams of water and swamps which seemed to fill up the centre of the plain, the high land being merely a wall round it. We returned to the beach, enjoyed a good lunch and then pulled across to the foot of the high rocky peak which forms the northern Point on entering the Bay. Here we again landed, and with incredible difficulty made our way to the top. At the foot of the mountain the brushwood is so thick and so tangled that we had the greatest difficulty in scrambling through it. Then the perpendicular sides of the steep ascent were to be conquered only by the help of hands and knees, grasping the roots and bunches of fern. Half way up there are deep trenches, evidently the work of man, and most probably intended as entrenchments or defences in some of the

destructive wars which in bygone days were so frequent among the savage tribes. We counted three distinct ledges or trenches, each perhaps twelve or twenty feet deep and quite perpendicular. Now they are quite overgrown with brushwood and fern and we climbed from one to the other with but little difficulty. The summit is a large mass of grey rock, on three sides quite bare and overhanging, but the fourth more broken, with shrubs and trees in the interstices, afforded us a comparatively easy path and all our toils were well repaid by the extent and grandeur of the scene beneath when we reached the top, a level spot of bare rock scarcely larger than a moderate table, and upwards of 1,000 feet from the level of the sea, which, at the moment, lay smooth and placid, purpled and gilded with the rays of the setting sun. No description can give the least idea of the scene: the mass of mountains around us, one whose peak broken into most fantastic pinnacles yet towered above us, the open sea beyond, the extensive and beautiful bay, the thickly wooded valley or glen below, and above all the utter solitude, the deep silence that prevailed, not a living creature save our two selves. It was a solitude that might be felt, we might fancy ourselves the only inhabitants of the world. We stayed but a short time fearing the darkness might close upon us ere we could descend. I waved my large black shawl thinking it possible they might distinguish it from the cutter against the clear, blue sky, but found they did not see it, indeed the height was so great that we could scarcely make out the little vessel herself riding in the bay. We descended with less toil than the ascent had cost us, and reached the shore, where we made a fire and sat down to wait our boat's return, as we had dispatched her to the Cutter to beg she would get under weigh immediately and pick us up as she came past. There was so little wind, however, after sunset that she made little progress. We got on board and, quite tired,

were glad to go to bed. She ran out during the night and next morning.

Thursday, April 23rd. – We found ourselves running along the coast with a fine breeze; the shores are all high, rugged and picturesque and we passed a number of small islands apparently quite destitute of inhabitants. The weather is most beautiful. We are really highly favoured in this respect for stormy, wet weather in this little vessel would be truly miserable. As it is I enjoy the voyage much, if voyage it can be called, running from port to port in about a day or so at a time. The wind failed towards evening and we lay so quiet on the water, the tide just setting us towards the entrance of the Bay of Mauranghi, our destination.

Friday, 24th April. – At daylight entered the harbour and at about 10 a.m. anchored. In less than a quarter of an hour we were in our boat and away to explore the river at the head of the Bay. The shores in many parts thickly skirted by mangroves, that strange tree that lives only in or near the salt water, and there, in the mud flats it thrives so rapidly that dense impenetrable thickets are formed by it extending far into shoal water. In other parts the high wooded hills extended to the water's edge, and here I first saw the famed Koudi tree which is now so extensively used for masts and spars under the name of New Zealand pine. It is a magnificent tree certainly, but not at all like our ideas of Pine, as it has a fine branching head quite different to any of the fir species. The forests covering the sides of the mountains were full of these trees, the young saplings are spiral and graceful and the older trees are many of them 50 or 60 feet high without a single branch and then a large branching head surmounts it; the foliage is generally rather scanty, being principally in tufts at the ends of the smaller branches, and of a lovely yellow green. There are numbers of other fine trees in these forests and

[Inserted unpaginated illustration]

Panoramic View of the Waitemata from Remuera, 1840.

the brushwood is thick and impenetrable, consisting of ferns of very large size, a sort of grass tree and the same sort of fern tree, which I have seen in the brushes of New South Wales, like a feathery palm tree about 15 or 20 feet in height. In these woods there are numbers of pigeons exactly like those of Norfolk Island; they are very large, of beautiful plumage and easily shot, as they sit quite still in the trees and take no notice of anything. We saw numbers of wild ducks also, but these are so shy it is impossible to get near them; we shot one pair only; pigeons we breakfast, dine and sup on, as they are an agreeable change from the usual New Zealand fare, pork and potatoes, the latter very indifferent this season.

After proceeding five miles up this beautiful river we heard the sound of a waterfall, and turning an angle came to the head of the navigation at once, for a ledge of rocks extended quite across the stream, about 10 or 12 feet in height, over which the water poured in numerous broken masses. We landed just below the fall in order to examine the country. Leaving the men to make a fire and get their dinner, we set off on our walk, the ground everywhere so encumbered with brushwood and fern that it was a most fatiguing task. Sometimes the scrub we groped through was far above our heads and the long, tough stalks of the fern twisted round our legs and sadly and painfully impeded our progress. We toiled on, however, to reach a distant hill which commanded a fine view over the neighbouring country, and in about two hours' walking arrived at the summit. The prospect was very beautiful, a succession of undulating hills, the sides of some of them clothed with woods, the river winding like a silver thread along the valley, sometimes lost in the woods and again seen in the distance sparkling over another rocky fall. We returned to our boat tired and hungry and found we must hasten over the rocks as the receding tide was leaving a very

shallow channel for our boat. We got her out safely, however, and reached the cutter about 7 o'clock.

Saturday, April 25th. – Started early to explore a branch which seemed to extend from the southern side of the river. We found to our disappointment that it was of no extent at all, soon lost in a mangrove swamp, so we returned to the river and again went up to the Falls, where we landed on the south side, and proceeded to examine the country on this side. We found it similar to that on the opposite side which we went over yesterday. On reaching the hills the view was very lovely, commanding a distant sight of the Bay of Mauranghi, and the islands off the coast. The land must be fertile from the rank luxuriance of the fern and brushwood which was almost impenetrable except on the very highest ridges, and even there the walking was very fatiguing. We passed numerous traces of wild pigs, which are said to be very numerous, the descendants of those left by Captain Cook.

I believe we have not seen a single Maori (or native) since leaving Wangari, nor have we fallen in with the least trace of inhabitants. The whole country as far as eye can reach seems in its most primitive state, scarcely a living creature to be seen, insect or bird or beast; one small lark and a little quail were all the birds I saw during our two days' excursions. Nothing can give an adequate idea of the utter solitude and stillness that prevails around, and I found that even our own voices were lost among these extensive hills; calling aloud to my companion, whom I could not see for the thick scrub through which we were scrambling, he did not hear me for several minutes, and as I hastily groped on I found we were not ten steps apart. We got back to the cutter before sunset, and then determined to take advantage of the fine weather and favourable tide to proceed, so weighed anchor immediately and got out of the harbour with the ebb tide.

Sunday, April 26th. – A beautiful day. We have hitherto been highly favoured in the weather which has been most delightful. All day we were running down the coast to the southward with a gentle breeze. There is, I am sorry to say, no attempt to perform divine service on board this little vessel. The sailors all appeared dirty as usual, though not much work was going on; indeed very little was required for the little vessel seems easily managed. We read the service on deck ourselves and then walked, observing the various appearances of the coast and the different islands we passed. The land seems to be much lower all along, and the cliffs are bare, and were composed of a sort of indurated clay or soft sandstone, which appears quite white at a distance, and reminded me of "Albion's chalky cliffs." I trust I shall one day have the happiness of seeing them; with what delight shall I watch them as we approach the shores of our dear native land. The wind was so light that it was quite dark ere we reached the entrance to the bay of Waitemata, and then falling calm we anchored about midnight to avoid being drifted in as the channel is quite unknown.

Monday, April 27th. – Weighed anchor about 8 o'clock and proceeded up the harbour of Waitemata, the shores still comparatively low but wooded. The birds were singing sweetly among the trees in the early morning; there is no variety of song, but a sweet liquid note resembling in a slight degree the song of the blackbird, is the most prevailing note. At about 11 a.m. we struck on a sunk rock in the midst of the channel, though we were proceeding cautiously and sounding all the time; it must be a point only for there is deep water all round. She was got off with some difficulty and our worthy captain was very apprehensive of her having received much injury. He anchored immediately that she got into deep water again and one of our men who could dive went down twice and examined the

vessel carefully. He reported that she had received no injury whatever, which I trust we shall find is the case. We had but little wind at the time so that she did not strike with so much force, though quite enough to cause a very unpleasant and alarming grating sound under our feet.

About 1 p.m. we started in our boat to explore what appeared to be the principal river debouching in this fine bay, but finding time would not admit of our getting far before dark, we turned into a beautiful creek thickly wooded on both banks. Numbers of wild ducks rose from amongst the mangroves, which everywhere fringed the edge of the water, in many places extending far out, forming extensive banks of sand at low water. We saw innumerable pigeons also and shot several. We reached the head of the creek or as far as was navigable, and then landed and climbed the bank to get a view of the country, but after walking some time we found the scrub so thick that it was impossible to see any distance, so returned to the boat and after filling our water casks at a beautiful natural basin of rock into which fell a stream of pure water, we pulled back to the cutter.

Tuesday, April 28th. – Immediately after breakfast started to examine the Waitemata river. It is as usual a very irregular channel, in some parts the water so shoal that we could scarcely get our light boat over, in others very deep water close into the shore. The banks are thickly fringed with wood, but the hills beyond are bare and undulating, the hollows green with rushes and coarse grass. About noon reached a fall of about 5 or 6 feet, a ledge of rocks extending quite across. It was now low water, so we could proceed no further. We landed and walked for about two hours over the hills to examine the country, found it barren and encumbered with fern and scrub, but not so high and luxuriant as at Mauranghi, consequently it was not so difficult to traverse. About half

way we came to a narrow but deep creek and were obliged to wade through the rushes and rank vegetation on its banks to find a place to cross. At length we came to a very romantic little cascade, where the whole stream was collected into a narrow shower and poured over the rocks in a sheet of foam, which we managed to jump across. The view we obtained from the highest point we reached was as barren and dreary as can be imagined, undulating hills extending in every direction; here and there the valley and sides of one would be covered with fine woods, but in general the slopes are so trifling that they are only distinguished by the light green of the rushes which everywhere cover the swampy ground. Returning to the boat we found the tide had risen so as to cover the rocks and allow easy passage to our boat, so we resolved to explore yet further. The banks were now higher, thickly wooded, and the stream narrower but not so shallow, it being nearly high water. After proceeding about three miles, we came to another fall and ledge of rocks, not very high but sufficient to bar our further progress. We saw numbers of wild ducks, but they were so shy we could not get near enough to shoot any. We returned to the Cutter about 6 p.m., the river as we descended appearing a noble stream, being at nearly high water; the hills here making so great a difference.

Wednesday, 29th. – Left the cutter at about 9 a. m. to examine the lower branch of the river, 37 but were soon compelled to return for it being near low water the river had not sufficient water to float our boat, we stuck in the mud several times and with difficulty got her off; fully two-thirds of the river's bed was nothing but banks of mud covered with oysters and mangroves, the former literally growing to the branches of the latter. We then crossed to what seemed a sandy bay on the south side of the harbour, 38

found it nothing but shells, principally cockleshells, almost triturated to sand; these shells seem thrown up continually, forming large beds which each tide rolls backwards and forwards always breaking, always accumulating. After walking over the peninsula, for such it seems, being almost surrounded by mangrove swamps, we returned to our boat and found added to our party a chief and his slave, who had come down the river in a canoe. They were fine looking men; the chief, dressed in a bonnet rouge and comfortable coat like a coachman, seemed quite happy but for the want of a pair of trousers which he very earnestly begged us to give him. We could not any of us spare these articles, so he was contented with some biscuit and cheese and a glass of wine which he did not omit to drink with due ceremony. He talked incessantly, but all we could make out was that he had come from "Kiapara," had seen the Governor and had signed the Treaty. From hence we went up another deep estuary in the bay which promised a fine opening, but being nearly sundown and the weather very squally, we were obliged to turn towards the cutter, our little ark at present. We saw myriads of snipes in the shoal water and shot a dozen of these graceful birds. They rise in flights and skim round and round in close phalanx, like starlings. We reached the cutter about 7 o'clock.

Friday, May 1st. – Anything but like May day. It was, however, rather less unpromising than it was yesterday, so I accompanied my husband as usual. We explored about the southern part of the Bay and encountered several very heavy squalls of wind and rain. In the afternoon a new and interesting object was descried in the Bay, a large boat filled with people bearing down towards us. Amid these dreary solitudes such an object is quite an event, and I watched it approaching very anxiously. As it came alongside we perceived that it contained several white men and a number of natives. One of the former came upon deck

and asked for the "Surveyor General," who, of course, made his appearance. The object of these gentlemen seemed to be to find out where the new settlement was to be, but as nothing is as yet decided they did not obtain the information they sought. They were a strange set of beings, settlers from the Thames and Coromandel Harbour – and such specimens of settlers; many degrees below those of New South Wales in apparent respectability. Truly the early settlers in a new colony do become most extraordinary beings, somewhat, I imagine, of the Kentucky style, "half horse, half alligator, with a touch of the earthquake." They were not welcomed with much cordiality, so they soon pushed off again and we saw the smoke from their camping place some few miles off, where they stayed the night and departed the next morning. 39

Saturday, May 2nd. – Still showery, but the wind rather more moderate, and between the showers it was warm and pleasant. I have never seen so many rainbows as since the last few days; there has scarcely been a half hour through the day when the beautiful arch of promise has not been visible in one quarter or other, sometimes most vivid in colour and of a full and perfect arch. I have also seen several lunar rainbows, the colours almost as bright as those formed by the sun. We explored a creek today, which promised to lead through a finer country than we have yet seen in this southern side of the Bay, but our hopes were fallacious as to the country on its banks, and for itself, at low water, it soon becomes a mere ditch running between broad banks of mud. We were obliged to stop till the tide should rise sufficiently to enable us to

return, and as we were desirous of ascertaining the character of the country inland, we made some efforts to reach the shore through the mud, which we at last effected by laying the oars down to give some footing to the first passenger, who then cut down branches and small trees and laid a causeway to the bank; we then had an almost perpendicular bank to climb, so thick with fern and underwood, all wet from the recent showers, that we were soon wet through. The long tough ferns, however, formed a very good sort of ladder, and without this help we certainly could not have attained the top of the bank on account of the wet, slippery ground, which afforded no other support to the feet. The top of the bank gained, we walked over the country for three or four miles bent on gaining an elevation to look over the hills, which in every direction rose all round us. This toilsome task we at length accomplished and gained a rather extensive view over the most dreary and desolate looking country eye ever beheld. I cannot imagine that the deserts of Arabia or Syria can be more miserable and monotonous; not a sound to be heard, not a bird or insect to be seen along the whole extent of dreary waste, and the eye became quite weary of seeking some green spot to rest upon. The surface of the hills is all bleak and grey, being only covered with dwarf scrub and half dead fern; their sides are generally clothed with the same sort of vegetation, but more luxuriant and consequently more difficult to traverse, the fern and scrub being often higher than one's head; the narrow hollows between the hills are generally marshy and covered thick with rushes; it is indeed a gloomy country, without flowers or fruits or birds or insects. I cannot but fancy it accursed, for flowers appear to me as the symbols and sign of the beneficence of the Deity, seeming to be solely created for the gratification of his creatures. No wonder that the natives of these islands are a savage ferocious race, their country

possesses not any of those refining gratifications of sense which tend so materially to soften and ameliorate the heart and manners. After two hours of fatiguing research we got back to our boat and were glad to find there was at length sufficient water in this muddy channel to allow us to return; we reached the cutter again at about 6 o'clock.

Sunday, May 3rd. – A day of rest. I am sorry to observe our worthy captain does not read the church service, inviting his crew to attend; so we read in our cabin. The weather is still very squally and disagreeable, rainy at intervals and very cold. For the sake of a little exercise to warm us we landed on the rocks near the ship in the afternoon and tried to walk round the point. We scrambled over the muddy, slippery rocks for about an hour and then returned to the vessel.

Monday, May 4th. - – Left the Cutter at half past 5 this morning to explore the lower branch of the river. It was dark and very cold, the stars shining bright and frostily. This river at high tide is a broad, beautiful stream and we followed it up for about eight miles when we found it narrow very suddenly and terminate in a picturesque fall of about 15 or 20 feet. The banks were here so thick with luxuriant vegetation and so rugged and steep that it was quite impossible to find a spot to land, we therefore turned and after seeking an accessible place for about a mile back, succeeded; and lighting a fire were glad to warm ourselves at it. We then attempted to penetrate to the top of a lofty hill in order to gain a view of the distant country, but after scrambling through the wet fern and brushwood till we were completely wet through we had the mortification to find an impassable creek and ravine still between us and the height we were so anxious to gain. We found no possible means of crossing this barrier so were forced to return to our fire, and after a hasty breakfast got into our boat and returned down the river. About noon we again

halted and climbed the heights on the opposite side; we then returned to the cutter; the wind very fresh and a heavy cross sea gave us a most disagreeable tossing about.

Tuesday, May 5th. – Having now finished with "Waitemata," and the cutter not being quite ready to start, rather than lose a day we determined to proceed with the boat taking tent and provisions to stay away the night. We reached "Temaki" strait and found the entrance to what seems an important river, but the entrance we had seen being very considerable we deferred the examination and looked out for a camping place. We landed for this purpose on the small island of "Koreho," which lies opposite the mouth of the river "Tehmaki" or "Wai Magua" [Wai Mokoia]. After selecting a favourable spot we proceeded to walk round and examine the island which is a very singular and beautiful spot, apparently an extinct volcano, the soil entirely volcanic and seemingly most fertile. We walked entirely round it in about an hour, the shores being either sandy bays, or huge ledges or masses of black rock easily scrambled over; it was quite a relief to walk here where one's steps were unencumbered with the detestable fern and brush. After dinner we set out to explore the hills in the interior; they seem all to be volcanic peaks and surround a complete basin, having the appearance of a large crater, the sides of which are now covered with a luxuriant vegetation, filling up the interstices of the vast masses of stone and lava. It is very fatiguing to scramble among these hills, for the loose stones roll beneath the feet and the fern and brushwood is so thick you cannot see your footpath. It is, however, a very beautiful spot and might be made still more beautiful by cultivation. I had many pleasing day-dreams here. I pictured my cottage in some sheltered knoll, its beautiful garden full of flowers and redolent of scents; my romantic walks among the hills or on the sands; the really magnificent sea view presented on

every side forming the background to every such picture.

Wednesday, May 6th. – Passed a very comfortable night on our bed of fern, and after an early breakfast we started away to explore the Tehmaki river; found it a wide and beautiful stream, the entrance only encumbered by shoals, the channel of deep water being narrow and intricate. About noon we reached a branch which, running about a quarter of a mile, terminated in a very curious basin surrounded by high ground thickly covered with fern and brush. We landed in two places to try to ascend a lofty hill from which we expected to gain a good view of the country, but were obliged to give up the attempt, and returned to the cutter after a very long and fatiguing day. We expected she would have come down to meet us, but we found her in her old anchorage, busy in getting a new bowsprit.

Thursday and Friday. – We were coming down in the cutter, but the winds were so light that she made very slow progress; we meanwhile put off in our boat and examined another bay near the entrance of the Strait; explored a creek from which it terminated in a basin exactly similar to the one we had seen in the Tehmaki river. We also made an effort to ascend the huge peak of the volcanic island of "Rangitoto," but found it quite impossible. The word signifies "red sky" in the language of the country, and it probably received the name, when being in a state of eruption, the sky above would, of course, be tinged by the fire. It has every appearance of having not long ago become extinct, for though the brushwood is so luxuriant as to be almost impenetrable, yet a very few years would suffice for its growth in such a soil and in so moist and genial a climate. The island is so surrounded with masses of black stone, resembling the ashes from some huge furnace, that it is difficult to effect a landing, for these huge fragments lie scattered far out into the sea and are

partly covered by the tides, forming a resting place for masses of oysters which seem to grow in clusters on anything that is partly covered by salt water; even the branches of the mangroves are frequently thickly covered, so that it may be said with perfect truth that the oysters grow on trees. Some of the volcanic stones are covered by lichens and various sorts of beautiful moss. We found a species of Acacia or Mimosa growing in the interstices of the rocks, which was very beautiful, and of which I got a quantity of seed. We returned to the cutter before dark.

Saturday, May 9th. – Started after breakfast and went up the Tehmaki river. About ten miles up saw a hut on the right bank with two natives near it; landed and found they were waiting there with a large number of pigs, for a schooner from the Bay of Islands with which she was to be freighted. We could not make them understand our questions relative to the portage to Manakau on the western coast, so determined to proceed and find out for ourselves. After rowing for about two hours, the river still wide and beautiful, its banks moderately high and thickly covered with brush, we came to a sudden narrowing of the channel and the remains of a native hut. Here we landed and tried to gain some height which should give us a view over the surrounding country, but found it vain as the time it would take to reach any such eminence would leave our boat dry and prevent our return till the tide should again rise; we therefore put back and rowed on till we reached a part of the river where there was depth enough, even at low water, for us. Here the men landed and dined and we, meanwhile, walked for about two hours over the undulating hills, thickly covered with fern and scrub, till on gaining a height, we caught the first view of the western coast and the great bay of "Manakao." The country is very beautiful here; the outline of the hills on the horizon is bold, varied, and picturesque; the sea gates

on the Eastern and Western coasts are distinctly visible, the low land between is undulating and, judging by the rank luxuriance of the fern and underwood, must be of the greatest fertility. Far beneath us, and at some distance, was a low neck from the river we had traced to the Bay of "Manakao" and here we imagined must be the Portage, the place the natives know as the "carrying place," where they are in the habit of carrying their canoes across. We returned to our boat and proceeding down the river, stopped again at the hut where we first saw the natives; landed and set out on our walk, determined to find our way to the Bay. After traversing a well beaten path for about an hour we caught a view of the waters of "Manakao," and, satisfied with the discovery, we turned again in our steps, and retraced our way to the boat. The soil seems entirely volcanic in this neighbourhood; we found continually large masses of the same sort of black volcanic stone as at "Rangitoto" and "Koreho." We reached the cutter just after dark.

Sunday, May 10th. – -Prepared letters for the Dolphin schooner.

Monday, May 11. – Nothing particular occurred. The wind fresh and cold.

Tuesday, 12th. – -Set off early to go to Mr. Fairburn's, the missionary at Maraetai. He has been settled in this country 22 years; his wife is an Australian; she gave me a dismal account of their terrors and suffering when they first settled among these savage tribes. They were then fierce and cruel as Captain Cook found them, and it was in hourly peril of their lives that these courageous people dwelt among them for the great and benevolent purpose of trying to humanise and christianise them. In the first they have, it seems, wonderfully succeeded and many people believe that they have been equally successful in the latter, but this I still doubt. It is, however, a great thing to have

rendered these ferocious and terrible cannibals, men moderately quiet and peaceable. We found the family of the Fairburns all kind and hospitable in the extreme. Their house is roomy and comfortable, though built in the manner of the natives, of "Rapao," that is, bundles of reeds tied together in a close and very neat manner, and the roof of palm leaves plaited in a peculiar fashion, resembling in the inside, where it is embrowned by the smoke, rich carving in some dark wood. I was an object of great curiosity to the native women who were servants in the house, and at every opportunity they would come and look in at the window or squat down at the door to look at me, talking rapidly to each other about the "Wahine Pakeha," the only words I could understand, which means white woman. Mrs. Fairburn speaks better of them and their capacity than any other of the missionaries' wives I have seen. Her eldest daughter has a school of about 50, and she tells me they learn very quickly. The six Mrs. Fairburn employs in her family can read and write, sew, do the household work including washing and ironing, and she says, they are generally docile and obedient, but require looking after or would be idle or negligent. This I consider a very favourable account of them.

Wednesday, 13th. – Felton set off alone determined to ascend the high hill which we attempted in vain on our first examination of the "Tehmaki." He succeeded in reaching the summit with very great toil and labour and returned about six p.m.

Thursday, May 14th. – We proceeded again up the river to explore one of its branches; found it very shoal, the channel encumbered with mud flats, the shore flat and thickly covered with fern and brushwood. About noon we landed, and after setting fire to the fern we proceeded towards a lofty hill which we expected would give us an expansive view. At first our walk was difficult and pain-

ful, for though thickly covered with fern and brush the surface of the ground was so rugged and strewn with large masses of volcanic stone that almost every step was a stumble. At last we got on a sort of path where the footprint of cattle showed a trace of civilisation and was most welcome. Keeping this track walking became easier and in about two hours we reached the top of the hill. We lost our good footpath at the foot of the steepest part of it, but we managed to climb the remainder by clinging to the branches and fern, without much difficulty. The top has a large basin or crater, now thickly covered with vegetation, but evidently the former mouth of a volcano and the outer sides are all thickly strewn with masses of stone which have the appearance of having been thrown up in a liquid state and rapidly cooled; they are of all shapes and sizes and just like those which compose nearly the whole of "Rangitoto" and "Koreho." We enjoyed an extensive and very beautiful view which fully repaid the toil of the ascent. One new and very pleasing object we perceived at a great distance beneath us – what seemed to be a yoke of oxen ploughing. We were aware that Mr. Fairburn has a farm in this part of the country, and from the traces of recent fires in this direction we concluded that this must be the place. By following the course which our fire had cleared we returned to our boat with little difficulty, the walking through blackened stems of fern and brush being a trifle compared with our usual scrambling. On our return we met Mr. Fairburn who had just landed from his boat to wait till the tide should have risen sufficiently to enable him to get higher up the river near to which his farm is situated. The weather apparently setting in wet and squally we hastened back to the cutter, which we reached just after dark.

Friday, May 15th. – Cutter got under weigh just after breakfast and we returned to the entrance of the harbour

of Waitemata, where we remained snugly sheltered during a very heavy gale which lasted with little intermission till Saturday night, the vessel rolling about very unpleasantly, and the frequent heavy rain, sometimes accompanied with thunder and lightening or violent squalls of wind or both, making our position very disagreeable.

Sunday, 17 th May. – The morning being fine we were glad to take advantage of it to proceed on our course; about noon, however, the wind increased to a sharp squall, and from the very intricate nature of the place we were running through, its various islands, rocks, and shoals, we were in considerable danger and were glad to find a sheltered bay on the island of Waihekeh, where we anchored about 3 p.m. Very soon after a boat came alongside with a number of natives and one European, a most lamentable specimen of degraded humanity, for a more reckless, depraved-looking creature, either white or black, could scarce be found anywhere. Three of the natives were in the dress of Europeans, all correctly adjusted even to the stockings and shoes. They wore military caps with gold bands, frock coats, white shirts, fine waistcoats and trousers, and even large Plaid or Blue Boat cloaks. Poor creatures, they evidently thought themselves perfect gentlemen, and looked with contempt on their far more interesting companion, an old chief wrapped in a large blanket covered with a mat of their own curious manufacture. We were told by the European who was with them that all these clothes were purchased by the sale of vast tracts of land and now these poor creatures had nothing at all to dispose of. We found them, as usual, great beggars.

Monday, 18th May. – The gale having abated during the night we determined to take advantage of the fine morning to run across the Frith to Coromandel or "Waihou" Harbour. The distance is not more than 12 or 15 miles, but the wind fell almost entirely and we were all day

getting across. Just as we neared the chain of islands which extends along the coast, almost hiding the entrance to the Bay, the wind sprang up and continued blowing so hard that we were glad to get safely into the harbour and anchored in a sheltered little basin about half past 4 p.m. We found, lying at anchor there, a large vessel, the Bengal Merchant, which, after having brought out emigrants to Port Nicholson, had encountered very severe weather on this coast and lost some masts and spars, which compelled her to put in here to refit. One of the officers came on board but we did not gain much authentic information from him, he having just dined. I am much disappointed in this place. I had expected to find a considerable settlement but there is not a house to be seen from the water; a few huts are visible but nothing like cultivation or in any way approaching civilisation. The island Waihekeh where we lay this morning seems very beautiful; the heights are clothed with woods, the shores bold and craggy, and also thickly timbered to the waters edge; the outline of the distant hills is also very broken and picturesque.

Tuesday, 19th May. – The morning was cold with frequent squalls of wind and rain; in the afternoon we landed to look for some rocks of very curious formation and had a very pleasant scramble on the sea shore for about three hours.... The rocks we were in search of were not as we expected in columns similar to those of Staffa or at the Giant's Causeway on the coast of Ireland, but were merely large masses of black basalt, somewhat lined and marked in a manner distantly resembling columns but nothing more. The mountainous appearance of the mainland and the numerous rocky islets scattered around formed a romantic picturesque scene.

Friday, May 22. – The last three days we have been slowly dropping down the Frith of Thames in a perfect calm, the tide just carrying us along, and when it turned

we were compelled to anchor to avoid drifting back with it. After dinner today being off a native village, we went in our boat to visit them, as the vessel lay only about 3 miles from the shore with no chance of being able to move till the tide turned again. On landing we found the spot chosen for the settlement was most picturesque and beautiful at the mouth of a fine, fresh water stream running through a mountain glen. A few native huts were perched on the sides of the hills and the low ground was covered with their maize plantations. It had, however, been destroyed, apparently by a flood; the stream had probably been swollen by heavy rains and had swept down the glen with great violence, washing down whole trees and branches into the cultivated ground below. We wandered about the glen and shore and saw no natives, they being all nearly half a mile off, but the rest of our party went direct through the plantation to the village where they found all the natives assembled at their evening service. They always assemble morning and evening and sing hymns, and generally read some portion of the scriptures which have been translated into their language by the missionaries. We returned about dusk to the cutter.

Saturday, May 23rd. – A fine morning and a fresh breeze invited us to start on our expedition to explore the "Piako," a river which enters the Frith about 4 miles from the mouth of the Thames. We left the cutter about 10 a.m. and sailed across the Frith and a few miles up the river; the banks are very low and the channel narrow and much obstructed by shoals and mud flats, all covered with innumerable seabirds. The navigation being rather difficult we took to our oars and proceeded up the stream. The distant outlines of the landscape are very beautiful, varied with patches of wood and backed with lofty picturesque hills. About 3 p.m. we reached the spot where we were to pitch our tent for the night; it is a plain rather higher than

the surrounding country but bare of wood and not at all inviting in appearance. There is a native settlement near and we were soon welcomed by a party of them who brought us wood for a trifling present of tobacco, and we passed a very comfortable night.

Sunday, 24th May. – Though we should have greatly preferred making this, as it ought to be, a day of rest, yet as it was absolutely necessary we should reach the place of our destination still 16 miles distant, within a given time, we were obliged to proceed. We started early, the banks of the river becoming still more swampy and in most places thickly bordered with the flax, a beautiful plant greatly resembling the gigantic Lily of New South Wales in appearance, but from the flower stalks still remaining, though the flowers have disappeared, I judge the flowers must be much smaller and different from them. The river, though still deep and flowing with a rapid stream is become much narrower and is frequently obstructed by regular weirs placed across it by the natives for the purpose of catching fish; these we were sometimes obliged to force our way through. Innumerable ducks covered the stream and arose in flocks from the marshy banks and lagoons on each side of the river. We at length approached some fine looking country, the banks of the stream were higher, and it flowed through several woods of magnificent trees principally Kaikatea. It was nearly dark before we reached the place we intended to camp, a beautiful spot, quite surrounded by wood excepting where it reaches the river's bank; on the opposite side of the stream there are fine mountains and lofty woods in the background, and beautiful undulating fern-clad hills extending from them to the river. There is here the beginning of a village, the country all around has been purchased by Europeans and preparations are making for building houses and cultivating the ground with the help of the natives, who, for payment, will put up

very neat buildings, after their own fashion, of "Rapoo." There is a fine old chief to whom the country formerly belonged, who has a residence here, and there is also a small building used for a sort of church, where every morning and evening a few of his people assemble, and he reads from the Testament to them and they all sing a hymn. The custom is pleasing and interesting, and though I doubt there being much if any devotion in it, yet it is something to have gained even an empty show of the feeling; the reality may come hereafter.

Monday, 25th May. – The weather unfortunately now seems to be on the change. Showers of rain were frequent during the night and early morning. However after breakfast we crossed the river and, under the guidance of the old chief, gained the summit of a lofty hill called Maokoro, with very little difficulty. It is, like so many others we have seen, a fortification of great strength, the summit cut into three distinct ridges, evidently a work of immense labour. Returning thence we got into a large boat and, accompanied by Webster and three other individuals, all proprietors of land in this neighbourhood, we proceeded to examine still farther the country on the banks of the river. The stream passes through a rich and beautiful tract of country, varied by splendid woods and undulating plains; it is very narrow and much obstructed by the falling of huge trees into and across the stream, and after a distance of 6 or 7 miles we found it so dangerous and difficult that we resolved to return, having ascertained, by a long walk across the country, the object we desired. We reached the tent again by about 5 o'clock, we had encountered some very heavy showers and the weather still continuing doubtful, we thought it best to make up our minds to return to the Cutter the following day.

Tuesday, 26th. – Accordingly we started early in a drizzling rain, and for some hours pulled rapidly down the

stream, frequent squalls of wind and heavy showers rendering our voyage very cold and disagreeable. About noon, however, we were favoured by a little improvement in the weather, and on reaching our former encampment, we stopped for about 20 minutes to rest the oars a little; afterwards we only had showers at intervals till reaching the mouth of the river, we attempted to cross the Frith. This was the worst part of our voyage, for the meeting of wind and tide caused such a heavy rolling sea that I feared our little boat, so heavily loaded, would be swamped every instant. We encountered two sharp squalls also before we reached the cutter, and I was most thankful when we reached her in safety. She was anchored in a secure little bay in the mouth of the Thames.

Wednesday, May 27th. – After breakfast we again set forth to examine the Thames river. The entrance is wide but as usual very shoal, mud flats extending often from either bank for some miles up. The country is flat for some distance inland and there are frequent tracts of fine forest land, the woods presenting a far more beautiful variety of tints than I have observed elsewhere; the trees are all, I believe, deciduous and there is every imaginable variety of foliage and colouring and shape and size. We proceeded about 16 miles to a station belonging to a Dr. Martyn. This is a large flat almost surrounded by the river and a creek and is the most dismal looking place imaginable; there is scarcely a tree upon it, and excepting a small space where the fern and scrub have been burnt off and a small house or rather hovel erected, it is all covered with flax or reeds. The hills rise at the back beyond the creek and are partially wooded, but the spot where the people are living, surrounded by the huts of the natives with all their accompanying discomforts of dirt, dogs, pigs and poultry, is the most miserable I have seen here. We remained about two hours and then returned down the

river and reached the cutter after dark, very cold, and with a strong wind and tide against us.

Thursday, 28th May. – The weather has now set in so wet and stormy that we cannot venture out of our anchorage, so we resolved to visit a celebrated spot on the banks of the river, not far from our anchorage. We landed on the left bank of the river near a settlement of natives who came out to meet us with some curiosity, but when we bent our steps towards the "Pah," the place we wished to visit, they did not at first seem inclined to accompany us, or even to like our going. However we had Webster with us, a man they all know, and who has great influence over them from his perfect knowledge of their language and his long residence among them and therefore we did not pay much attention to their remonstrances and in a few minutes three of them came running after us and with great alacrity showed us the best paths, and when a stream of water or a muddy creek intervened, most readily assisted in cutting down branches to lay across, and on one occasion even wished to carry me over; this, however, I declined. There are some among them of so very savage and terrific aspect that I cannot overcome my dread of some future outbreak, nor divest myself of the idea of some vindictive feelings latent in their minds which they only wait a favourable moment to display towards us. "Totara" Pah 40 was once the most important in this part of the country, and contained a very large number of people. They were treacherously attacked about 15 years ago by a tribe from the Bay of Islands under the chief "Hongi," who, after living with them as on a friendly visit for about a month left as if to return to his own country, and falling on them in the night massacred men, women and children to the number of 300. Their bones lie scattered around in every

direction, some in the enclosure, others down the sides of the hill, as if murdered in the attempt to escape; or hidden in some cleft or wooded recess, as if the poor wounded wretch had dragged himself there to die in peace. The greater number of bones are found scattered round the ovens where the horrid banquet was prepared and devoured. These are hollow circles of stones and the method of preparing food is by making fires in these holes till the stones are thoroughly heated, then they sweep out the ashes with boughs and wrapping the flesh or fish in leaves they lay it on the stones, cover branches and leaves over it, pouring over the whole a sufficient quantity of water, and keeping in the steam by piling earth and branches over it. This is said to be a most excellent mode of cooking, even for a European taste, and pork, dressed thus, is considered delicious; but I shall never overcome my repugnance to it unless I can ever forget that human flesh is the great delicacy most generally cooked in this way by the New Zealanders and the sickening sight of the innumerable ovens with the ghastly remains of the feast of "Totara."

Friday, 29th May. – Though it still blew very hard we were so unwilling to lose time, that at the slightest prospect of moderating we weighed anchor to run to Coromandel Harbour. There was a very heavy sea on and the poor little cutter was soon tossing about in the Frith, and I obliged to betake myself to my berth wretchedly sick as usual The wind moderated and the sea went down rapidly after sunset, so we enjoyed a quiet night and at daylight next morning we were off the entrance to Coromandel.

Saturday, 30th. – Being dead calm after breakfast we got into our boat accompanied by Webster, and left the cutter to work in with the tide. We landed at Webster's house and it is difficult to imagine a more extraordinary assemblage of characters than his little hut contained that day. We sat down to dinner as at a table d'hote, no

individual acquiring any acquaintanceship with his neighbour by this association. 41 Thus there were adventurers of all kinds, from the honourable (quasi) Dudley Sinclair, member of the Port Nicholson Assembly, to the half piratical master of several vessels strongly suspected of being concerned in the slave trade. I felt, I must say, I was in a very strange position, but I found amusement and interest in observing the motley throng and we, of course, commanded every attention as being attached to the Government. There were a few natives about; one of them a very fine looking old man, was pointed out to me as having seen our great navigator Captain Cook. He described the wonder of his countrymen on the approach of Captain Cook's boat. They supposed that the rowers must have eyes in the back of their heads as they sat with their faces towards the stern of the boat; in paddling their own canoes, the natives all face the head or bows of the canoes and steer by striking the water on either side at irregular intervals. This old fellow is very elaborately tattooed, which conceals the wrinkles of his face, and being very tall and his figure still erect he does not appear so aged as on closer examination is evident. The women, it is said, are fond of being tattooed for the purpose of hiding the encroachments of time on their beauty. They say when dissuaded by the missionaries from the practice, "Oh, let us have a few marks round our lips at least, else we shall be so ugly when we grow old." They are certainly ugly enough when old even with all these assistances to nature. The young women are some of them rather good looking and some of the half castes are like very lovely gypsies, perfectly beautiful. The cutter came to anchor just inside the heads, about 4 p.m., and we returned on board.

Sunday, 31st May. – -We resolved to make this a day

of rest after our week's buffeting about, so after breakfast took our books, landed from our boat on the northern headland of the harbour and walked over the hills till we reached a pretty sunny spot from which we could command a very beautiful view. Here we sat down, making a couch of the fern and performing our devotions in this tabernacle not made with hands as humbly and sincerely as if they had risen from the most costly temple. We afterwards extended our walk half round the romantic little harbour which resembled more a mountain lake than an inlet from the sea, especially on so calm and beautiful a day; the very forms of the mountains were shadowed in the calm still waters like reflections in a mirror. We returned on board the cutter to dinner and afterwards made a tour quite round the harbour in our boat. At the upper end is a very large Pah or stockaded village on the bank of a small creek which at low water can only be entered by canoes. There was not water enough for our boat to enter the creek, but we pulled in close to the Pah and Felton landed and was immediately hurried off by two or three natives to be presented to the chiefs, while I, remaining in the boat, was an object of great curiosity to the rest of the group; there might be 80 or 100 clustered round, talking and observing everything. They had just finished their evening prayers, for this practice is universal. At sunset a bell rings (or something that answers the same purpose is used, an old iron pot, or a barrel of a gun cut in three pieces and strung together); this summons them to assemble and the whole hive swarms round one of the chiefs who can read, and after singing a hymn, generally to the tune of "God save the King," they read two or three chapters from the Testament and then disperse. After about 5 minutes my husband returned accompanied by the Chief who most politely came into the boat to shake hands with me, and then we pushed off again and reached the cutter after dark.

Monday, June 1st. – This morning the weather was thick and cold drizzling rain fell at intervals, but the wind being tolerably fair for us we left the harbour about noon and stood across the Frith to call at Mr. Fairburn's, but in an hour or two such a violent squall of wind and rain came on that we were obliged to run into a little bay on the island of Waihekeh, and though in a tolerably sheltered anchorage there was such a heavy swell that we passed but a very indifferent night.

June 2nd, Tuesday. – It rained heavily all night, but partially clearing this morning we pursued our course to Mr. Fairburn's. The wind was so light and variable that we made but slow progress and about 3 p.m. when a nice breeze had just sprung up and we were sailing along quite merrily, we just ran upon a shoal or mud flat. Our worthy captain soon got her off again but was so frightened that he would not venture again to approach this shore, so we made up our minds to leave the cutter to anchor in Putiki, a pretty little bay on the south side of Waihekeh, and cross in our boat to Mr. Fairburn's. As we neared the bay we saw two vessels there taking shelter like ourselves, one, the Lady Leith, we spoke as we passed and found she was commanded by the brother of an old friend in the Colony who had accepted the charge for the sake of seeing the country. We were very glad to find a quiet snug harbour for as evening drew in it came on to blow and rain again tremendously.

Wednesday, June 3rd. – A beautiful morning. Mr. Richards came on board to breakfast with us, and directly after he got his ship under weigh and sailed out of the Bay, bound for Port Nicholson. We also loaded our boat with tents and provisions for a few days and started across the Frith for Maraetai. It was a very fine calm day and excessively hot in the sun; the poor men had rather a heavy pull. We reached Mr. Fairburn's about noon, and before

dark had our tents pitched in a very pretty spot, a secluded little valley with a stream of beautiful water running over a ledge of rocks forming a fine cascade opposite the door of our tent. The Fairburns all treated us with the greatest attention and hospitality, we almost lived entirely at their house during our stay.

Thursday, June 4th. – The weather is cold and stormy, but we have a good fire in front of our tent, and it is in such a sheltered little nook that we do not find it so cold as I expected. This afternoon I went with Miss Fairburn to attend her native school. There were only about a dozen children and young women, most of them employed as domestic servants by Mrs. Fairburn, but I am told that the assemblage is in general much larger, sometimes 70 or 80. Their studies are reading the scriptures in their own language, also the catechism and hymns; and some half dozen write upon slates, letters words or sentences. The most amusing part of the business is the repetition of the English alphabet by the whole corps dramatique to the tune of God Save the King in chorus. This is the grand finale. 42

Friday, June 5th, – The weather unfortunately is so wet and squally that we cannot see much of the surrounding country. There are some very richly wooded hills rising at the back of Mr. Fairburn's, but immediately round his house it is all as cold, bleak and dreary as possible; the soil seems to be of the poorest description. They seem to

have made some efforts towards bringing it into a state of cultivation but with very little apparent success. Their garden has a few shrubs and trees, but all with such evident traces of the devastating effects of the severe gale in February last, which seems to be irrecoverable. Indeed, the house is placed in the highest and most exposed situation possible, and judging by the uprooted trees around it, I wonder it was not itself blown down to the beach from the violence of the gale.

Saturday, June 6th. – This morning being fine with a promise of a fair wind for the northward, we after breakfast took leave of our hospitable entertainers and as quickly as possible got all our things into the boat and stood across to Putiki, but we had scarcely left the shore when it began to blow tremendously, and with such a heavy swell that our little deeply loaded boat was in danger of being swamped every moment. I was very frightened, very wet and very cold for the spray dashed over us at almost every plunge, but with two reefs in the sail and by the protection of Providence we reached the cutter in safety. After dinner weighed anchor and stood out, running northward with a fine breeze.

Sunday, June 7th. – Fine morning and we enjoyed sailing along the coast very much. After dinner the wind freshened and the sea rose considerably, so that when we found ourselves off the headlands of the little harbour, "Tutukaka," which we intended visiting, our captain was unwilling to approach the coast and said it was too late to attempt getting in before dark, but would lay off and on till morning. In the night it blew very hard and we were compelled to run under the lee of the rocky islands called the Poor Knights, and there lay to.

Monday, 8th June. – The weather still boisterous and the sea running high, the wind directly against us. We were beating about all day unable to make the least approach

to our wished for haven. Towards the afternoon the weather looked so threatening that, dreading another night's beating about, we resolved to run down the Wangari harbour. Long before we reached it the wind moderated, and the cutter being such a heavy sailer made such slow progress, that we only just got inside the heads when it fell a dead calm, and there we lay just in the tide-way rolling about miserably sick till morning when we got into our own boat and pulled on shore just to breathe a little fresh air and recruit our spirits and strength. Meanwhile the cutter on Tuesday, June 9th, worked in with the morning's tide and anchored about noon in a snug little cove just under the loftiest of the huge peaks or pinnacles which form the North headland of the Bay....

Wednesday, 10th June. – Fine morning so weighed and stood out to reach "Tutukaka" in good time, but alas about 9 a.m., it fell calm in a moment and the sky became suddenly overcast while the sea as suddenly rose, and there we were, perfectly powerless, just outside the frowning heads of Wangari, could neither proceed to the Northward, nor yet regain the friendly port we had left, while the sky appeared every moment more threatening. The sun glared red through the clouds like an angry moon through a London fog, and the cutter rolled heavily through the water. At last the gale came down upon us, the rain poured in torrents, and we drove before the wind to the northward keeping as far to seaward as we could. I was, of course, wretchedly ill, and could hardly keep myself in bed from the rolling and pitching of the vessel. Towards morning we were, as we supposed, nearing the Bay of Islands, so lay to till daylight should enable us to make our course.

Thursday, June 11th. – At daylight found ourselves off the heads, and the weather moderating a little we managed to get inside the heads by about 10 a. m. We were all day beating up, however, and did not anchor off "Russell"

till nearly 4 p.m. It rained almost all day but I was most thankful for having finished our voyage in safety. Felton went on shore immediately and the Governor was extremely glad to see him and offered to have a bed made up for us if we would land at once; but we declined and were glad to have a quiet night's rest to recruit.

Friday, June 12th. – Most thankful for our safe return. We landed at Paihia and took up our abode in a house belonging to the missionaries and partly occupied by Dr. Johnson.

37 Probably Lawson Creek; see sketch-map facing page 158.

38 Point Chevalier beach (?).

39 This was almost certainly the party of J. Logan Campbell and his friends, Webster ("Waipeha"), the "Yankee King of Waiou" and W. Brown, Campbell's partner. They had come over from Coromandel, or Waiau, to buy up land at the Waitemata in anticipation of the Government's operations. See J. L. Campbell's delightful narrative, "Poenamo" (1881).

40 For an account of the capture of Totara Pa, 1821, see S. P. Smith, "Maori Wars of the 19th Century," pp. 190-202.

41 For Webster's famous "table d'hote" at six dollars a week, see J. L. Campbell, "Poenamo."

42 In a pleasant, chatty letter to her sister Margaret, dated Paihia, July 18, 1840, Mrs. Mathew wrote: – "All the Gospels and many of the Epistles have been translated and also a few detached portions of the Old Testament, a number of hymns, the Liturgy, and catechism of our church. This was done because it was found the natives would not learn English. Now they are beginning to manifest a willingness to do so, and in the schools they are repeating the alphabet and a few little words as well. At one, I heard them saying, or rather singing the multiplication table very well – that is for parrots; I do not think they knew what it meant."

CHAPTER VII. SECOND VISIT TO WAITEMATA (concluded) FELTON MATHEW'S REPORT

CHAPTER VII.

SECOND VISIT TO WAITEMATA (concluded)

FELTON MATHEW'S REPORT

[Upon his return to the Bay of Islands, Mathew presented to Captain Hobson a lengthy report on the results of his survey, dated June 15th, 1840. The earlier part of this is given in precis form, but those sections which deal with the Waitemata demand fuller treatment.

(i) Whangarei. After a close description of the harbour and district of Whangarei, Mathew came to the conclusion that this place was unsuitable for the site of the principal settlement, the amount of level land being inadequate for building purposes, and the upper portion of the harbour not having a sufficient depth of water. But he recommended a spot on the north shore, where the river entered the Bay, as suitable for a small settlement.

(ii) Mahurangi. He was more favourably impressed with Mahurangi, which he thought formed a desirable site for a Town and which had a good harbour. Communications could be opened up westwards to the Kaipara and southwards to

the Waitemata and the Manukau. In discussing this site, he defined the desiderata for the capital as consisting of a good anchorage close in shore, sufficient level land for the Town close to the shore, facility of communication with the interior, and an adequate supply of timber, water, building-stone, etc., in the vicinity. Mahurangi did not fulfil all these requirements; the land available for building was limited in extent, internal communications over the hills of the dividing range might present some difficulties, though not insuperable, and there was the possible objection that it was too far north and too near the Bay of Islands. Nevertheless, it might serve if no more desirable place were to be found; and in any case, Government should obtain possession of the harbour and surrounding country with a view to forming a flourishing secondary settlement.

(iii) Between Mahurangi and the Waitemata he reported there was no practicable harbour.

(iv) Waitemata and (v) Tamaki. The full text of the report is given.]

4th. Having thus minutely examined the coast as far as "Waitemata," and particularly those portions of it to which, by his Excellency's instructions, my attention was more especially directed: I now applied myself to a careful and deliberate examination of that harbour and of the spot which I once on a previous occasion visited in company with his Excellency, and which at first sight, appeared to present some advantages which were likely to render it available for the purpose I had in view.

The principal tributary of the "Waitemata" (marked A on the accompanying Sketch No. 2) 43 and which forms

[Inserted unpaginated illustration]

SKETCH-MAP OF THE WAITEMATA
to illustrate Felton Mathew's Report, June 15th, 1840.

the Northern boundary of the spot I allude to, I ascended as far as I conveniently could, in my boat. At a distance of about four and a half miles from the entrance, I arrived at a ledge of rocks, which at low water constitutes a fall of about three feet, but may be passed at half flood. The river thus far extends in a direction nearly Eastward, diminishing gradually in breadth, and shoaling from three fathoms to eight feet. Above the fall it turns abruptly to the Northward, retaining an average depth of from eight to ten feet a distance of about three miles, where another ledge of rock occurs, above which the river becomes very narrow, its course extremely tortuous, and only navigable for canoes. The whole mass of country between the river and the Eastern coast, is extremely rugged and impracticable, the soil is of the most sterile description, producing only a scanty growth of stunted fern, with occasional masses of Forest in which is a sprinkling of Koudi Timber. This stream is connected by a short portage, 44 with a branch of the "Kiapara," and is used by the natives as a means of communication between that place and "Waitemata." A branch of this river (marked B in the sketch) bears to the Northward, and I was anxious to examine it, under an impression that it might open a means of communication with the country at the back of "Mauranghi"; I found, however, that at a distance of about three miles, it separates into three branches, one bearing to the Eastward, the others to the Northward and Northwest. In the latter is a fall of about fifteen feet; the stream is very narrow, and navigable only for canoes. In fact none of the streams could become available, as a means of internal communi-

cation, without a large expenditure of money and labour.

At the junction of these streams, there is a rather considerable extent of fine land, well adapted for small farms. 45

To the Eastward the Range which divides these waters from the coast, is broad and level unincumbered with Trees, and affording I have no doubt a very practicable road, from the north side of Waitemata, Northward, along the coast to the back of "Mauranghi." 46

The spot to which I have alluded, as having on a former occasion attracted the attention of His Excellency, is almost insulated on the Northwest side, by a sort of estuary or branch of the principal stream which is nearly dry at low water 47 – and on the south, and partly on the East side, by the Bay which is there so extremely shallow, as to render the shore almost unapproachable, even in a boat, and at high water. On the Northeast side, there is a fine and deep channel, extending along the northern bank of the river; but two fathoms cannot be obtained nearer to the South Bank, than from one to three hundred feet. The extent of the frontage, however, which possesses even this advantage is inconsiderable and does not exceed half a mile. From the Southwest side of the Bay, extends another stream (marked C on the sketch) 48 which bears in a southwest direction, a distance of about three miles, where it is obstructed by a fall of about three feet, from whence it turns abruptly to the west and then to the Northward, so as almost to insulate the portion of country which I am

attempting to describe. This stream has a narrow channel of about two fathoms at low water; but the banks are so obstructed by mudflats and mangrove swamps, as to render landing impossible except at high water, and even then they cannot be approached without difficulty. The land on the whole of this Peninsula is of the most sterile and desolate description, being composed of a sour red and white clay – the fern is dwarfish, and thinly scattered, the surface chiefly covered with rushes, varied by an occasional patch of stunted Scrub. There is only one small running stream of fresh water to be found which is marked D on the sketch, 49 and is at a distance of several miles: the land being of such trifling elevation, and rising so gradually from the shore that the water stagnates in the Ravines and hollows, forming reedy swamps by which every undulation of the ground may be distinguished. This circumstance I consider a very manifest disadvantage, as it would not admit of sufficient drainage, a desideratum of primary importance in selecting the scite of a town. Water it is evident could be obtained on this spot only by sinking wells, a very difficult and expensive process in an infant settlement. Firewood might be obtained from the opposite shore, but necessarily at an increase of cost; brick earth is abundant throughout the Waitemata.

Proceeding farther inland the country rises into bold and lofty undulations, having almost the character of Table Land, but still of the same description, and presenting as unpromising an aspect as it is possible to conceive.

Between the sources of the two streams C and D it is connected with the lofty and thickly wooded Range 50 which forms the boundary between the Eastern waters, and the Western Coast, and which terminates at or near the North head of the harbour of "Manukao."

From this circumstance it is evident that a land communication from this Peninsula southward could not be effected without considerable difficulty. A road extending westward along the ridge, so as to head the stream C, must necessarily be carried across all the spurs from the dividing Range above alluded to, as well as all the Ravines by which they are intersected; and if carried more to the southward to cross the stream C it would be by a long and difficult descent: and would involve the necessity of carrying a bridge across the stream, a work of considerable labour and expense. This last would, however, be the preferable plan to adopt. 51

After a most careful, anxious and deliberate examination of the portion of land to which I have been for some time alluding, I am compelled to arrive at the conclusion that it is totally unfit for the scite of the principal Settlement, and indeed ill adapted for a settlement at all. Its disadvantages may be thus summed up. It has neither wood, nor water – the land will not admit of sufficient drainage, the fall being so trifling that in wet weather, it would be little better than a quagmire – there is no stone or material for forming roads and streets within a very considerable distance, and the streets without a good coating of hard material would be impassable at almost any time – the communication with the interior is difficult – and its shores on every side but one (and that of very trifling extent) are surrounded by shoals and mud flats and quite unapproachable even for boats. Its only advantages are, that the ground is level, and in that respect suitable for building – that a small portion of its northeastern shore is approachable within a short distance by shipping – and that it affords

a supply of brick-earth; which latter advantage, however, it enjoys only in common with every other part of the country. I am well aware that difficulties of the nature, to which I have alluded, would be of very trifling importance where the means of overcoming them were easy of attainment, since in the formation of roads for instance, there are few obstacles, which a little skill and injenuity will not suffice to overcome; such difficulties therefore would not be of sufficient importance to disqualify for the scite of a Town, a spot which in other respects was desireable. But in an infant Colony, and more especially one in which capital and labour (the latter more particularly) are likely to be both scarce and valuable for some time to come, I cannot but consider the objections I have enumerated as of great importance, and I am anxious to set them distinctly before his Excellency the Lieut. Governor, in order that due weight and consideration may be attached to them.

I beg further to observe in connexion with this subject, that this part of the harbour of Waitemata, does not appear to be nearly so desireable for shipping, as on my first partial examination I was disposed to imagine. The channel, although deep, is narrow and when the wind blows freshly from the west or Southwest, across the Bay, it would be impossible for any number of vessels to lie there, without being moored, or incurring a great risk of getting foul of each other. Nearly in the centre of the channel, and exactly off the mouth of a large estuary extending to the Eastward, is a very dangerous rock, visible only at low water spring tides, on which the Cutter struck, but fortunately, without sustaining injury. It is about one hundred feet long by forty wide, and is composed of very hard grey stone, bearing a strong resemblance to Limestone; I have named it on my sketch the Ranger's Rock.

I examined very minutely the whole of the extensive Bay into which the harbour of Waitemata opens westward

of the "Centinel" and found it a succession of mere sand banks and mudflats and mangrove swamps. There is a narrow and very intricate channel from the mouth of the stream which I have before described (marked C) and another from the mouth of a small Creek at the South East side of the bay; they are both of them very difficult and only fit for boats and canoes and with these exceptions there is scarcely water enough in the Bay to float a boat.

5th. Having been thus disappointed in my expectations of finding a suitable scite in this part of the Waitemata, I proceeded to the mouth of the River known by the name of the "Tehmaki" as the nearest place in which I might hope to discover anything favourable to my views. I was not long in perceiving that the chief difficulty to be encountered in this river is at the entrance, which is defended on the West side by a Bar composed partly of a sandbank which extends entirely across the mouth of the River. There is a good channel having three fathoms at low water, close up to the bank, which has only one fathom at low, and about fifteen feet at high water: at which time therefore any vessel drawing twelve feet may enter with ease and security.

The Bar is not above two or three hundred yards across, and the water then deepens immediately to five fathoms and retains a depth of five, six and seven fathoms in a very good channel for a distance of several miles. The Columbine missionary schooner, and several other small vessels, are in the habit of frequently visiting this river. On the Eastern side of the entrance, there is a deeper channel: but it is obstructed by rocks; a reef extends from the Island of Koreho, perhaps nearly to the mainland. This passage is therefore somewhat dangerous, but probably, when it has been minutely examined, and the dangers well defined it may prove the best entrance to the River. I have the honour to enclose a sketch (No. 3) of this river on

which I have shown the soundings (taken at low water) by which his Excellency will perceive that there is abundance of water for vessels of any size, to lie close alongside the rocks for the purpose of discharging their cargoes.

There is a space of about a mile and a half on the West, and about half a mile on the East side, which is available for this purpose – the banks being of a moderate elevation, and composed of a description of Rock, which would admit of being excavated with great facility. About three miles from the mouth, the River (as will be seen by the sketch) contracts suddenly to a narrow pass where there is great depth of water entirely from shore to shore; at this point, a branch extends to the West through a narrow rocky gorge, having three fathoms water for a distance of little more than a furlong when it opens into a romantic little basin or Lake of about a mile in diameter, having, however, a depth of only six feet, even in the centre. 52 The soil in and around this spot is volcanic and of the finest description, free from trees, but covered with luxuriant growth of fern and brush. The land rises in a succession of bold, but gentle undulations to the base of a lofty Volcanic Mountain 53 of which they [form] the spurs, the intervening ravines and hollows affording an abundant supply of fresh water.

There is a Lagoon of fresh water at a distance of perhaps two miles, 54 whose waters appear to feed a small Creek which joins the principal streams near the Huts which are shewn on the sketch. I could distinctly perceive this Lake, and trace the course of its waters from the summit of the mountain (which I ascended), but the difficulty of travelling on foot is such that I was unable to reach it. From the summit of this Mountain (which I obtained with

infinite labour, on account of the impenetrable nature of the brush) I enjoyed a splendid view of the surrounding country. I could distinctly mark the portage from "Tehmaki" to Manukao, 55 and the whole of that Harbour to the heads, and the open sea on the West coast – the country between the Manukao and Waitemata and the courses of all the streams which I had examined to the Northward; to the Southwestward I could trace the course of the River "Waikato" and the elevated land intervening between its waters and those which flow into the Frith of Thames.

The bird's eye view of the country, which I thus obtained, impressed me more forcibly than ever, with a sense of the immense importance of this isthmus, which would seem destined to become the connecting link between the Northern and Southern portions of this Island.

It appeared to me – and subsequent examination, as well as all the information I have been enabled to acquire from others, confirms the hypothesis – that the whole mass of country southward of "Manukao," and the Frith of Thames, and between the highlands on the Eastern, and that on the Western Coast is divided into two valleys, they may be almost called plains, of vast extent – one of which contains the "Waikato" with its tributary streams, and the other the Thames and the Piako with their tributaries. These valleys extend southward as far as the eye can reach, and I am informed that the same description of country prevails, for a distance of one hundred to one hundred and fifty miles beyond.

The banks of these Rivers must become the great agricultural district of the Island, as I believe that no other part of it affords any considerable extent of land available for the purpose.

The elevated land which separates these two valleys

is of irregular character and will admit in many places, of being crossed with perfect facility; no difficulty would arise therefore, in connecting the two and conveying by a near and practicable route, the produce of the "Piako" and the "Thames" to the banks of the Tehmaki. I shall, however, have occasion hereafter to speak of these rivers, when I shall enter more fully into this important question.

I have taken this hasty view of the general features of the country, as derived from the information I have acquired from others, and confirmed by my own observation, for the purpose of conveying to his Excellency the Lieut. Governor my impression of the importance of the Isthmus formed by the "Tehmaki" on the East, "Waitemata" on the North, and "Manukao" on the West, and which, as the very key to the whole Island, North and South, the centre through which every line of communication must unavoidably pass, has always struck me as most peculiarly adapted of [sic] the scite of the Metropolis, provided it were found to be, in other respects suitable.

It forms the connecting link between the East and West coasts, the communication with either being easy, alike by land and by water.

The country is of moderate elevation, well adapted for the formation of Roads wherever water conveyance may be found to fail, and there is abundance of material on the spot, in the volcanic stone with which the soil abounds. The scite which I consider best adapted for a Town is the land at the base of the mountain, which I have before mentioned, intervening between it, and the River "Tehmaki" and around the shore of the small Lake before alluded to. 56

The ground lies well for drainage, yet is sufficiently level for building purposes, and for the formation of

streets. There is abundance of fresh water, and plenty of brick earth. The Banks, as I before observed, are well adapted for mercantile purposes and there is ample space for a considerable number of vessels to lie with ease and in perfect security. I would recommend that in the first place the Town should be marked out on the North side of the Lake – it might then by degrees be extended to the south side, and at a future time, when it became necessary, the opposite, or East bank of the River may be made available. A connexion between the North and South sides of the Lake would be established by means of a bridge across the gorge which connects the Lake with the River: and which being not more than thirty or forty feet across, and the banks almost perpendicular may be effected with ease and at a trifling expense. Before concluding my description of this part of the country, I should observe that the land intervening between "Manukao" and the "Tehmaki" is of moderate elevation and of a very fertile character.

The whole of the upper part of Manukao harbour is dry at low water, and the Portage is approachable even for Canoes; only on top of high water.

Having thus endeavoured to exhibit as clear a statement as possible of the advantages which the "Tehmaki" presents, as a scite for the principal settlement, I shall proceed to enumerate the [dis] advantages under which it labours, which are certainly by no means inconsiderable.

The first is the entire absence of wood of any description, which cannot be obtained within a distance of several miles. This is a serious evil, but I trust, not an [insuperable] one; for the Island of Wai[heke] immediately opposite the mouth of the River, affords an immense supply of that article, well adapted both for building and for fuel: and I have ascertained that it can be conveyed by water from that Island to any part of the "Waitemata" or "Tehmaki" at the rate of 10s./ to 12s./per load of fifty

cubic feet; which would be a remunerating price to the vendor, and a very moderate one to the purchaser. Add to this the certainty that Coal exists in abundance in the Middle Island, and will doubtless very shortly become an article of commerce, and I conceive that the difficulty of want of Fuel is overcome.

The second, and by far most serious impediment, is that presented by the Bar at the entrance of the River, which certainly renders it impracticable for large vessels. It is, however, available at high water for vessels drawing twelve or thirteen feet, and for Steamers at any time of tide; and there is deep water and good anchorage outside the Bar, and under shelter of the high land which forms the Western entrance to the River.

I apprehend that when carefully examined, and accurately buoyed, no difficulty would be experienced in entering the River at any time. In connexion therefore with the Harbour of Waitemata, which is at so short a distance from it, I conceive that the Tehmaki will still be found the most desireable spot, or at [least] present fewer disadvantages than any other that can be selected.

The qualifications which Waitemata possesses to fit it for a port, his Excellency the Lieut. Governor is himself well acquainted with. It is a most secure anchorage, well sheltered, with great depth of water, and sufficient space for almost any number of vessels.

Now I conceive that a settlement may be formed on the southern shore of Waitemata, not far from the entrance, where the ground possesses every requisite for the purpose: this would constitute the Port, the Capital being on the Tehmaki with which it would enjoy an easy communication of about ten to twelve miles by water, and about half that distance by land. It is true that as the deep water in this Harbour does not approach within some distance of the Southern shore ships must necessarily discharge their

cargoes, either into lighters, small sailing vessels, or steamers for conveyance to the Capital: but this, although a disadvantage, and I admit a serious one, does not appear to me to present a fatal objection to the spot I have named. It is very probable that in a short time private capital and enterprize might effect the needful improvement in the harbour, by carrying out a breakwater as far as the deep channel which would enable ships to lie alongside and discharge their cargoes. And under any circumstances this is a disadvantage which is felt by many other Towns of importance, a harbour in [which] vessels can lie close into the shore being rarely met with in any part of the World. A small settlement in Waitemata would thus be all that was required, as it would only be located by a few persons connected with the shipping; while Stores, Wharfs and Mercantile establishments could be most advantageously formed along the Banks of the "Tehmaki," where ships of considerable size, and steamboats, can at all times discharge their cargoes without trouble or difficulty.

His Excellency the Lieut. Governor will perceive that throughout the whole of my investigation I have had but a choice of difficulties. I am well aware of the requisites which should be borne in mind in the performance of so important a duty, as selecting a scite for the Capital and seat of Government of a Colony, which I trust will ere long become a powerful and flourishing one: and if it were possible to select a spot combining most of the essentials, with the undoubted advantage of deep water for shipping close into the shore, I could not have hesitated an instant in deciding on that spot. But I am compelled to arrive at the conclusion that, from the Bay of Islands to Waitemata, and from thence all around the Frith of Thames to Cape Colville, no such place is to be found. It would appear to be a singular characteristic of all the waters of New Zealand on the Eastern Coast at least that the deep water

is always found near to the Northern Shore, which is usually bold, rugged and impracticable – while the gentle and inviting undulations of the southern shore are unapproachable on account of the shallowness of the water.

From all that I have said on this subject, his Excellency will perceive that in my opinion, and for the reasons I have above stated, the "Tehmaki" is the most desireable spot that can be selected, and that which at least presents the smallest number of disadvantages. Its Geographical position unquestionably renders it so desireable, that I think few considerations would have sufficient weight to counterbalance that single advantage – the ground is good, well adapted for the purpose – water and brick earth are both abundant – and it presents every possible facility for internal communication both by land and by water. The Bar at the River mouth and the want of Timber, are the two only drawbacks which I can discover.

Should these be considered insuperable, I know of no alternative but "Mauranghi" which is the only other spot I have met with, at all suited to the purpose.

My objections to it are, that its space is too limited for the capital of the Island although well adapted for a considerable settlement, and that communication with the interior will be rendered difficult by the chain of lofty and thickly wooded Ranges by which it is surrounded; added to which, the Port and the Capital would still be distinct and separate, and although the Harbour of Mauranghi is more sheltered than Waitemata, it is smaller; and the shores of the one are not much nearer to the deep water than those of the other.

The "Mauranghi" River, too, is narrow, and available only for small vessels and steamers; while the "Tehmaki" is practicable for vessels of considerable size, with ample room for a large number to lie at anchor in security.

On the whole "Mauranghi" is unexceptionable as a

position for a considerable settlement, but is on too limited a scale for the Capital, while the "Tehmaki" and "Waitemata," although open to objection, enjoy many and great advantages, and, at all events, present in my opinion fewer exceptionable points than any other that can be selected, throughout the whole extent of country which I have examined.

There is one rather remarkable peculiarity, connected with the Isthmus so often alluded to, which I have hitherto omitted to notice. On the Western side of the River, just at the spot which I consider most desireable for a Town, is a Creek opening into a small Lake which I have before described. At the head of the Bay on the South side of "Waitemata" is also a Creek which opens into a Lake of about the same size, and of precisely similar character. Into it flow two Creeks, the source of one of which is at a very short distance from the "Tehmaki" Lake; and although the water in either of them does not exceed six feet at low water, they may be hereafter united at no great expense; thus opening a direct and very short internal water communication between the Port and the Capital, avoiding the exposure to wind and Weather in crossing the mouth of the Harbour, as well as all risk (if any exists) from crossing the Bar at the entrance of the "Tehmaki."

[The question arises, what site was it that had attracted Hobson's attention during his first visit to the Waitemata, and had been recommended to Mathew in his instructions of April 6 as offering at first sight distinct advantages for the site of the capital. Hitherto, it has been too readily assumed that Hobson had his eye on the present site of Auckland, that is, the foreshore between Hobson Bay on the East and Sentinel Rock on the West; in which case, Felton Mathew's description of the spot – "totally unfit for the site of the

principal settlement, and indeed ill-adapted for a settlement at all" – is unaccountable, unless we assume either crass incompetence or interested motive on his part. Nevertheless this supposition was strengthened by Rev. H. Williams, who noted in his diary: –

"On the 21st February I sailed with Captain Hobson in H. M. S. Herald to examine the neighbourhood of the Tamaki [i. e., the Auckland isthmus], to which place I directed his attention. His Excellency was not long in pointing out the spot, the present site of Auckland, seeing immediately its various advantages." 57

It should be remembered, however, that Williams was not present when Hobson made his examination of the harbour, having gone to assemble the natives for the purpose of signing the Treaty, and his somewhat casual note, based on second-hand information, can be shown to be in error.

In the first place, it is possible to define within certain limits the portions of the harbour which Hobson and Mathew had visited together in February. The Herald had anchored in mid-channel off what later became known as Point Britomart; the Herald Log for February 23rd gives the bearings – "South Point of the Harbour E 1/2 S., a remarkable mountain, a late Native fort [Mount Victoria] N E 1/4 E." Mathew shows that all Hobson's exploring trips, with one exception, were upstream from this point, the furthest point reached being sixteen or eighteen miles up the

river, that is about Pitoitoi or Riverhead. On the only occasion when Hobson might have gone downstream, namely February 26th, he was not attended by Mathew, and as it is distinctly stated that the spot he favoured was visited by Hobson and Mathew together, this cannot have been the occasion of their visit to it. Therefore the site which Hobson recommended lay somewhere between Point Britomart and the head of the Waitemata near Pitoitoi.

Further, David Rough, who accompanied Hobson on his second visit to the Waitemata in July, 1840, records: –

"Our next move was to the Waitemata [July 6 or 7], to which place the Governor's attention had been specially directed by Archdeacon Williams and Captain Symonds. The idea was in favour of a situation far up the harbour to which we were sailing, but we anchored for the night off the small islet called the Sentinel. Dr. Johnson, an accomplished artist, was the first to call attention to the inviting appearance of the country lower down, and I offered to leave the cutter and remain behind to take soundings and examine the shore at low water before daylight next morning.

"Just as the sun rose I climbed up the cliffs to where Ponsonby now is.... The cutter had sailed up the harbour....

"When the cutter came back the Governor seemed to be dissatisfied with the narrowness of the channel and appearance of the country higher up the harbour. He was therefore pleased at the report I was able to

give of the anchorage and depth of water near the shore where I had taken soundings.

"In the afternoon, His Excellency, accompanied by Dr. Johnson, Mr. Clarke, and myself, landed and walked along the shore to what is now called Freeman's Bay. All we saw appeared favourable for the site of a settlement..." 58

It is evident from this account that, until July 7th, Hobson's attention had been fixed on the upper reaches of the harbour, above the Sentinel Rock, and that he had not seriously considered that particular stretch of shore on which Auckland was founded till Dr. Johnson pointed it out – though it may be noted that Mathew had suggested that the Port might be formed in that vicinity.

Mathew's description of the place which Hobson had first thought of fixes it almost exactly. We are told that it was bounded on the North West by a tributary of the Waitemata which was nearly dry at low tide; on the South and East by a shallow Bay from which extended a stream, banked by mudflats and mangrove swamps, flowing South West for three miles, then turning West, then North; and on the North East by the main channel of the Waitemata, which at that point was deep on the North side of the river but comparatively shallow near the Southern bank. The peninsula thus formed was sterile and desolate, covered only with dwarf ferns, rushes and stunted scrub; it was of trifling elevation so that the stagnant water formed reedy swamps; and behind it lay the ridges of the dividing range that separated

the East Coast from the West (i. e., the Waitakerei hills).

Now this is clearly not a description of Auckland. The streams and tributaries of the Auckland isthmus do not run in the directions Mathew mentions; the shores of the Bays and streams are not, and were not then, rendered unapproachable by mudflats and mangrove swamps; the land, far from being of trifling elevation insufficient to carry off the water, rises steeply to the several volcanic hills which are the feature of the present city; and instead of a desolation of dwarf fern, reeds and stunted scrub, the hills and ridges were then luxuriantly vegetated, as many contemporary drawings and descriptions attest, and as Mathew himself has already witnessed when describing his vain attempt to reach the summit of the "large and lofty hill distant about five miles," which one imagines must have been Mount Eden.

Where the description does fit is the peninsula ten miles higher up the Waitemata, formed by the present Brigham's Creek on the north-west and Lincoln Creek on the South-east; and there can be little doubt that Hobson's first tentative selection of a site for the capital was the portion of country which includes the site of the new air-base, by happy coincidence named "Hobsonville." It was this site which Mathew resolutely rejected as unfit for settlement; and Hobson, after a second look at it, regretfully concurred in his Surveyor-General's judgment. – Ed. ]

43 Mathew did not copy his sketch-maps into his Letter-Book, from which the report here printed is taken; and though the original report is in Internal Affairs Dept. Records at Wellington (1840, folio 202) the maps cannot be traced. I have marked Mathew's references on the accompanying sketch-map as accurately as possible from his description.

44 The portage ran from Pitoitoi, near Riverhead, westwards to the Kumeu stream, and thence to the Kaipara.

45 In the vicinity of present Coatesville and Dairy Flat.

46 The main North road now follows this route, from Devonport and Birkenhead, via Glenfield, Albany, Dairy Flat and Silverdale.

47 Present Brigham's Creek.

48 Lawson Creek, formed by the junction of Lincoln's Creek and Brigham's Creek.

49 I cannot identify this.

50 The Waitakerei hills.

51 Main roads now follow both these routes, the "low" road crossing Lincoln's Creek and Brigham's Creek, the "high" road cutting inland from Henderson via Swanson and Waitakerei and joining the other at Kumeu.

52 Lake Mokoia, near which were the sites of the old pas of Mokoia and Mauinaina, taken by Ngapuhi in 1821.

53 Maungarei, or Mount Wellington.

54 Waiatarua, or Lake St. John's.

55 At Otahuhu.

56 The site of present Panmure.

57 Carleton, "Life of Henry Williams," II, p. 18.

58 Rough, "Early Days of Auckland," in "New Zealand Herald," January 11-25, 1896. The italics are mine.

CHAPTER VIII. THE FOUNDING OF AUCKLAND

CHAPTER VIII.

THE FOUNDING OF AUCKLAND

[Hobson was already impressed with the strategic importance of the Waitemata-Manukau isthmus, and was ready to concur in Mathew's general conclusion that the capital should be established in that quarter. But he was not prepared to have his own suggestion of a particular site up the Waitemata set aside in favour of the Tamaki without again viewing the situation for himself. A fortnight after the date of Mathew's report, therefore, the cutter Ranger was again given orders to proceed to the Waitemata, this time to take the Lieutenant-Governor, attended by Dr. Johnson – for Hobson was still in a weak state of health – and Captain David Rough. On the eve of leaving the Bay of Islands, Hobson wrote to his wife: – "It is quite determined that the seat of government will be at the Thames." 59 The exact locality within the "Thames" district was still to be decided.

The Ranger reached the Firth of Thames on July 4, and anchored off Waiheke. The next day

being Sunday, Hobson and his little party attended divine service conducted by Mr. Fairburn at Maraetai. On Monday, they sailed to the Tamaki, but, as Rough records, "though we managed to get up by boat as far as the lagoon, yet the channel appeared to be so intricate that the Governor gave up all idea of selecting that part as the site of an important settlement." 60 Thus ended Mathew's favourite project.

After attending a native assembly, held in "the first bay on the west side of the Tamaki," where the Treaty was duly signed by seven of the Chiefs of the locality, 61 the official party moved on to the Waitemata. Here, as already recorded, 62 Hobson revisited the site he had singled out on his first visit, but was on closer examination profoundly disappointed in it. Apparently it too was definitely rejected at this stage. But the Ponsonby shore, to which Dr. Johnson called attention, and which Rough examined, gave much greater satisfaction. The final decision was not made on the spot, but shortly after the Lieutenant-Governor's return to the Bay of Islands, the southern shore of the Waitemata, just above the entrance of the river, was determined on as the scene of operations.

Early in the month of August, 1840, active preparations were going on at the Bay for the expedition to the Waitemata. Stores were assembled, the Anna Watson was charted for transporting the mechanics to the south, Henry Tucker con-

tracted to construct a number of frame houses for shipment to the new capital, Mr. Gardiner began work building a boat for the use of David Rough, now appointed Harbour-Master of the Waitemata. Felton Mathew and George Cooper got in early with a request that they might be allowed to select lots in advance of the first sale, so that they could build their houses at once, before the winter, and were permitted to do so on the understanding that they would pay the average price brought in by similar lots at the first sale of Town lands. 63 Mathew also renewed his urgent appeals to the Lieutenant-Governor for additional assistance in the Survey Department. On September 4th, he wrote: – 64

"... In a country such as this where the demands for land are likely to be so numerous and extensive, and where the local difficulties are of a nature, so trying and severe, it is not to be expected that the labours of a solitary individual, however well directed his efforts, or however strenuous his exertions, can be attended with very important results, or in any degree keep pace with the wants of a daily increasing community....

The public attention has of late, in the agricultural districts of England, been so strongly directed to New Zealand, that numbers of people of this description, will I have no doubt 'ere long be flocking to these shores: – And when I consider the utter want of a Survey force, adequate even to meet the most

ordinary demand for land in this Colony, I confess that I cannot but entertain the most serious apprehensions for the result. Emigrants of small capital, finding on their arrival, that no provision is made for supplying their wants, and that little probability exists of their attaining the object they have in view, will either quit the country in disgust for the less genial soil and climate of Australia, or if induced to linger on in hope that their wants may be supplied, will speedily expend the capital which ought to be employed in improving their own condition, and in bringing into play, the resources of the country.

My attention has been the more forcibly attracted to this subject, from the circumstance of several cases, such as I have alluded to having recently fallen within the scope of my own observations, in which parties who came hither with every intention of settling in the land, and in the hope of finding immediate employment for their capital in agricultural pursuits, finding that there was no prospect of their being able to obtain land for an indefinite period, have quitted the country disappointed.

... I would submit that the immediate employment of a numerous and efficient Survey force, is an object of primary importance, first as providing the means of instant occupation for emigrants, and secondly, as producing an immediate extensive source of revenue.

... I am of opinion that ample and most useful employment may be found for a

dozen efficient Surveyors; and although such a force may be supposed to entail on a young Colony an expense which it is scarcely calculated to support, yet I am satisfied that an immediate outlay of that description, would speedily afford the means of filling the Coffers of the Treasury, and would be found essentially the most economical measure that could be adopted.

I would beg to point out to His Excellency the Lieutenant Governor, how highly advantageous it would prove to the Colony, if, while with a part of such a Survey Staff I was engaged in laying out the Capital, and prosecuting a Survey of the available Lands in its immediate vicinity, another force were employed in surveying and dividing into sections the extensive tracts of valuable agricultural country, which exist in the valley of the Thames and in that of the Waikato. The Survey of Town Allotments and country sections proceeding thus simultaneously, the newly arrived emigrant would merely have to inspect the plans at my office, make his selection, and in a few weeks from his arrival, he might be settled on his land and turning his capital to immediate advantage.

I am aware that His Excellency has written urgently to Sydney for a reinforcement to the Survey force, but I am doubtful if any, or at least any efficient officers, will present themselves from that quarter, and I beg respectfully to urge on His Excellency the necessity for sending to England, where if an adequate inducement be held out, the neces-

sary assistance will no doubt be readily procured."

The Surveyor-General had seized upon one of the essential conditions of successful colonisation – secure and speedy possession of suitable land, the provision of which required that, at the outset, the Survey Department should be at full strength. Instead, he was left to wrestle with his problem almost single-handed, for his assistant, Mr. Galloway, was of little use in the field owing to his ill-health, and for the rest Mathew was only allowed to hire, temporarily, the services of Mr. Halls, a surveyor, and employ a limited amount of native labour for clearing the fern.

On September 11th, Hobson issued a series of Instructions to the various officers who were to be in charge of operations at the Waitemata. 65

Captain W. C. Symonds, as Chief Magistrate, was ordered "to proceed forthwith to the District of the Thames in the Anna Watson... and take up residence at the Township about to be formed on the Waitemata." He was to make monthly returns reporting on the state of the District, and inter alia make proper provision for the erection of a temporary Gaol, subject to the warning however, that in view of the limited population at present there, "it will not be advisable to incur any great expense." In a separate document, Symonds received the following orders: –

"You are hereby directed to take possession of Autea in the name of Her Most Gracious Majesty and hoist the British Flag thereon, the same having been presented to Her Majesty by the Native Chiefs who owned it. Should any

difficulties arise relative to the occupation of the Land about to be formed into the Township on the Thames, you will use your utmost exertions to remove all obstructions and treat with the the Natives for the purpose of satisfying them.

Dated at Russell this 11th Day of Sep., 1840.
W. HOBSON."

Felton Mathew, Surveyor General, was to select the most eligible spot for landing the stores, choose a site for the erection of the frame houses sent down for the accommodation of the Government officers, and select a site for the construction of the Government House. "No preparations must however be commenced without my concurrence in the choice of the site having been first expressed."

William Mason, Superintendent of Works, was to ascertain the best places for felling timber, forming a brick-yard, lime-burning, and collecting sand; he was to erect the Government buildings on the sites determined by the Surveyor-General; and was informed that labourers would be allowed provisionally to occupy a quarter of an acre each at a rent of £4 per year.

David Rough, Harbour-master, George Smith, clerk in charge of stores, Edward M. Williams, Clerk of the Bench, Postmaster and Interpreter, and Dr. J. Johnson, Health Officer, all received instructions appropriate to their particular departments.

Two sets of General Instructions issued on the same day provided that Captain Symonds, in addition to being in charge of the political and legal side of the business, should act as referee in matters affecting two or more Departments. This

was, in effect, to make Symonds the head of the expedition, and it gave immediate umbrage to the older officers. Mathew wrote (Sep. 13): –

"I have to observe that Captain Symonds being my junior officer, I decline recognising that gentleman as an Official Referee, or acknowledging him, directly or indirectly, in any other capacity than as Police Magistrate. As these General Instructions imply an utter want of confidence in the judgement and discretion of the other officers of the expedition, I do not think proper to place myself in a position which is calculated to degrade my office in the eyes of others, and I have therefore to request that immediate steps may be taken for relieving me from my duties, as it is my intention to return to Sydney immediately." 66

Dr. Johnson also tendered his resignation in similar terms. Explanations followed, and the resignations were withdrawn, but the position remained uneasy. Under these circumstances, on September 13th, the barque Anna Watson (captain Thomas Stewart) sailed from the Bay of Islands for the Waitemata, having on board seven Government Officers, Mrs. Mathew and a few other cabin passengers, and, in steerage, 32 mechanics with their wives and children – 15 women and 28 children, of whom 19 were under 10 years of age. This little band – the founders of Auckland – seems sufficiently interesting to be put on record. The passenger list is therefore given, as far as it has been possible to reconstruct it: –

Cabin: –

Capt. W. C. Symonds, Police Magistrate.
Felton Mathew, Surveyor-General.
William Mason, Superintendent of Works.
David Rough, Harbour-master.
Edward Marsh Williams, Interpreter, etc.
Dr. John Johnson, Colonial Surgeon and Health Officer.
Mrs. Felton Mathew.
Hon. Mr. Talbot, "a traveller."
Mr. Chaplain, described as "a curiosity hunter."
Captain Thomas Bateman, "a sort of supernumerary";
and two others, described as "nondescripts. certainly not gentlemen."

Steerage: –

Beck, Peter, boatman.
Burns, John, boatman.
Carloss, Michael, boatman.
Carney (or Kearney), Thomas, blacksmith.
Collins, David, carpenter, with his wife and 3 children,
Condon, Richard, carpenter.
Dalombie, Manuel, boatman.
Dew, John, carpenter, with his wife.
Gamble, James, labourer.
Hamilton, Francis, labourer, with his wife and 1 child.
Harkin, William, labourer, with his wife and 5 children.
Harris, Alexander, sawyer.
Hill, Charles, blacksmith, with his wife and 4 children.
Kendall, William, groom, and his wife.

McGee, James, labourer and his wife.
McNaughton, Donald, mason, with his wife and 4 children.
McQuoid, John, labourer, with his wife and 1 child.
McRichie, James, boatman.
Mills, Samuel, carpenter, with his wife and 2 children.
Motion, William, carpenter.
O'Neill, Charles, carpenter.
Rayner, Henry, bricklayer, with his wife and 1 child.
Raynor, Henry, boatman.
Robertson, John, sawyer, with his wife and 3 children.
Sharkey, Patrick, mason, with his wife and 1 child.
Smith, Isaac, brickmaker.
Swanson, John, carpenter, with his wife and 1 child.
Wright, Thomas, carpenter, with his wife and 4 children.
Dill.
Robinson.

The narrative which follows, taken from Mrs. Mathew's Journal, tells the story of what these people accomplished in the next two or three months. – Ed. ]

SECOND PORTION OF MRS. MATHEW'S JOURNAL

September 11th [1840], Friday. – Embarked on board the barque Anna Watson expecting to sail during the night, the weather very squally and unpleasant with frequent showers. Our expedition is a great and important one and it is much to be regretted that, from the injudicious measures of our Governor, the various members of it are not so harmonious as could be wished. There are people who are so unfortunately injudicious as to contrive to damp the ardor and neutralise the exertions of their most efficient officers at the moment when the utmost exertion and the greatest enthusiasm would seem to be required. I am the only lady 67 and my position is not an enviable one; it is true I have the comfort of my husband's company and a precious privilege it is to be his companion everywhere; but I suffer so much on board ship, and my health is so indifferent that I set out on this voyage with a very heavy heart.

Saturday, 12th. – I must say something of our party today as we are still at anchor off "Kororarika," the weather still very wet and squally. Captain Symonds is considered in some light as the head of the expedition much to the disgust of the older and superior officers; he holds

nominally the rank of Police Magistrate: he is a fine gentlemanly young man, who but for the mistrust and jealousy thrown around him by his equivocal position, would be an agreeable companion, barring his attachment to cigars. Next comes the honourable Mr. Talbot, who has passed the last eight or nine years in travelling through various parts of the Australian continent and is now pursuing his researches through these Islands: he seems to have been so long the companion and associate of savages that he has no taste apparently for any other society, at least so far as I can yet judge; he smokes incessantly either a cigar or a black pipe, the latter seems preferred; he is of aristocratic presence too, notwithstanding the disfigurement of huge red whiskers meeting under the chin, and the ordinary embellishment of a "bonnet rouge" as head gear. A certain Mr. Chaplain is his cabin companion, a little lively fellow, who seems a curiosity hunter, nothing more. Two more nondescripts, certainly not gentlemen, I may mention next. Then there is Captain Bateman who seems to be a sort of supercargo of the vessel, and now I come to our own party, as I call the immediate officers of Government: Captain Rough, harbour-master, Dr. Johnson, Mr. Mason, and Mr. Mathew, though last not least; and also last not least our John Bull Skipper, Captain Stewart, a little round fat oily man, very good natured, but not I think overwise.

Sunday, 13th. – A fine morning and now all bustle, the anchor raised, and all ready for a fair start as soon as a breeze comes: about 9 a.m. the gun was fired and sails loosened; at 1/2 past 10 a.m. the last boat left the ship and we slowly stretched forth on our way, the wind very baffling and light. Towards noon the wind freshened considerably and though not a fair wind, yet we managed to beat out....

Tuesday, 15th.... About noon we dropped anchor

[Inserted unpaginated illustration]

Mathew's Plan of the City of Auckland, 1840.

about a mile below the Sentinel [Waitemata Harbour]. Near us lay the Platina from Port Nicholson, 68 and soon after anchoring her captain came on board. I was much interested in his account of that new settlement so at variance with Col. Wakefield's praises of it, he of course being an interested party. The Platina has brought several people from Port Nicholson who have resolved to settle here, being disgusted with that place; the climate seems much more inclement than in this part of the Island, there is now much snow on the hills around it and the rain and cold winds are almost incessant. Could I feel the interest I once did in the settlement and colonisation of this country, I should rejoice that these circumstances were likely to bring to our community the honest industry of the very superior class of labouring emigrants who have been deluded by the Port Nicholson Company into sitting down there; as soon as this new field for their labour and capital is open, there is little doubt but they will flock hither.

Wednesday, 16th. – This morning the important decision was made, for the precise spot where the port of the Capital must be: 69 and the vessel was worked up to the place, or rather as near to it as convenient for the landing of the horses. The weather is squally and very frequent showers, but the sunshine at intervals makes the shores look green and pleasant and almost inviting. Mr. Mathew and Dr. Johnson went on shore early, the former to examine the land capabilities, the latter to geologise. They returned after a very long and fatiguing but also interesting walk, having reached the summit of a high hill commanding an extensive view of the country in every direction. Mr. Mason brought down a Spar for the Flag-Staff.

Thursday, 17th. – The weather still cold squally and most disagreeable. At intervals I managed to walk a little on deck, but the high cutting winds made it very unpleasant. I do not find my position here very pleasant; the Captain is too good-natured, he suffers so much disorder and discomfort to prevail without any effort to remedy it that I am much disappointed. The ship though such a fine sailing vessel and so admirably arranged as to comfort, is rendered by neglect and dirt a most uncomfortable abode. I am anxiously looking for the arrival of the Cutter which will I hope bring us such decisive intelligence as to enable us to arrange our future movements and resolve whether we land here or proceed southwards in the vessel. The spot for the erection of the Flag-Staff is selected 70 and tomorrow at noon the British Flag is to be displayed and saluted with due honours.

September 18th, Friday. – A beautiful morning seemed to smile on the auspicious circumstance of taking formal possession of a certain portion of the land: and accordingly preparations were made for the important ceremony, and about half past twelve the whole party landed and proceeded to the height where the Flag staff was raised ready to receive the Royal Standard, which was carried by the Harbour Master. The Police Magistrate, attended by the Clerk and Interpreter, then read a short preamble setting forth that a certain portion of land was to be given to the Government by certain chiefs, therein named, for a certain payment to be fixed hereafter, of which as earnest they were then and there to receive six sovereigns.

[The "Preamble" or preliminary Agreement

referred to by Mrs. Mathew is as follows: – 71

"Wai te Mata
Friday, 18th Sept., 1840

It is agreed this day on the part of "Te Kauwau," "Te Rewiti," and "Te Tinana" and others of the Ngatewhatua tribe to cede to Her Majesty's Government, temporally [sic], until its Purchase may be effected by the proper Crown Officer, that Portion of Land which is contained within the following Boundaries, Viz.:

On the North, the Astuary [sic] of the Wai te Mata

On the South, a line drawn through Maunga Wau midway between the Waters of Manukau and the Wai te Mata

On the East, the River called Mate-hare-hare

On the West by the River called Opou. In consideration whereof the aforesaid Chiefs have received six pounds sterling, in earnest, to be deducted from the Price of the lands hereafter to be determined, and in Witness have attached their Names.

Signed before us this 18th September, 1840.

Wm. C Symonds, Police Magte.
John Johnson, M. D., Colonial Surgeon.
Felton Mathew, Survr. Genl.
David Rough, Harb. Master.

Ko te Reweti
Te Kawau X His Mark
Te Tinana X His Mark
Horo X His Mark"

At this stage of the business, the principal chief stepped forward and in a long vehement harangue seemed to be making very strong objections to admitting the Pakehas at all among them; though on the previous day it had all been arranged to his satisfaction. He said that a Pakeha who had resided long among them told him that the Queen of England would take all their land from them, and that they should then have none to live on. In reply he was told through the interpreter that this was false and that he should not believe what was said by bad white men who were only deceiving him for their own purposes; but that the Governor was come to see that neither Pakeha nor Mauris were wronged and that all he or his Officers promised them should be strictly performed. After some further discussion about the boundaries, it was at length decided, and the three principal chiefs signed the agreement or "puka-puka," as they call all writings, which was also signed by the Police Magistrate and one or two other Government officers. Then the Flag was run up, and the whole assembly gave three cheers, the ship's colours were also instantly hoisted and a Salute of 21 guns fired. Her Majesty's health was then most rapturously drunk with cheers long and loud repeated from the ships; to the very evident delight of the Natives of whom nearly 100 had assembled round us. A few of the Rangatiras or chiefs were given wine to drink the Queen's health, and afterwards the Governor's was proposed and saluted with 7 guns. As it was wished to make this somewhat of a holiday the gentlemen got up a boat race among themselves, another for the sailors, and a canoe race for the natives, which all came off with great eclat. The amateurs pulled the Surveyor-General's gig against the Captain's gig; the sailors contested their whale boat against that of the harbour master, for a purse of 5£; the Natives were each given half a pound of Tobacco, with which they seemed much delighted; and this closed the day's

festivity. There was no rain though it threatened frequently: the first day without showers at least, which we have had for some time, a good omen I hope for the prosperity of the new city which is to rise on this spot. On the Flag staff was cut the name, Auckland, with the date of the day and year. This was the first visit I have paid to these shores, and I think the situation chosen is in every respect most eligible. There is a large extent of level ground, and for the present occupation of the Government officers a very pretty sheltered valley, close to the promontory on which stands the Flag staff, has been selected; if we remain I begin to flatter myself I may have again ere very long, something like a comfortable dwelling and a nice garden. In the evening Captain Rough gave us a few songs to the accompaniment of his guitar, but he had shouted himself somewhat hoarse, in honour of her Majesty in the morning.

Thursday, October 3rd. – I have nothing worth noting in my journal from day to day: still the same monotonous dreariness prevails; the weather is however improving, and on shore in our little valley, where I spend the greater part of the day, the warmth is delightful. I have been enclosing a small plot of ground for my bulbs which are all shooting and should be planted. I had just returned to the ship when I observed great confusion in the Bay, where the Government Store for the reception of the Public property has been erected and where the greater part of the Government House and furniture has already been landed. Large columns of smoke obscured the shore, and I could make out nothing till the return of the party to the ship in the evening when I found that the fires on the hills to clear away the Fern and Scrub for the Survey had, from the change of wind, taken the direction towards the bay, and rushed down the little valley with such rapidity, that no efforts could arrest its progress, and it was with the

greatest difficulty that the Store with its valuable contents was saved. Considerable property was destroyed, principally that of a Mr. Terry, 72 a settler recently arrived from Port Nicholson, and whose greatest loss was that of a newly-invented Machine for dressing the New Zealand flax, and a large and valuable collection of Trees and Shrubs. I particularly regret the latter, though I shall suffer much inconvenience from the loss of the large case containing my stock of ironmongery and the whole of my culinary apparatus. My dining tables have escaped with a slight scorching and the splitting of one of the leaves. I am thankful that no lives have been lost, and the damage sustained no greater.

Monday, 5th October. – Having landed everything and set up our tents, we took leave of the Anna Watson without regret, for a more dirty ill conditioned vessel I never had the misfortune to be in. Our whole property is piled up beside our tent and covered from the weather by a Tarpaulin. Our tent is sheltered by a coppice and open only towards the sea, and is really very comfortable considering. At a little distance is the tent of Dr. Johnson on the same side, and a little farther towards the point, that of Captain Rough. There is a beautiful stream running through the centre of the little amphitheatre or valley, and the landscape is really a gem; the buildings in progress of erection for Public Offices towards the head of the glen forming the back of the picture. There is a Maori path winding through the copse up the hill to the Flag staff, and thus far is our usual evening walk, the whole country is covered with Fern that it is difficult to move in any other direction. The only mode of clearing it is by burning, and then to walk over the blackened ground is destructive to dress.

Saturday, 17th October. – Today arrived the Favorite with His Excellency the Governor on board, but the weather being showery he did not land. The Frigate looked beautiful at anchor off the Flag Staff Point and with H. M. Brig Britomart, which has been here some days, and a few small craft the Harbour looked quite respectable.

Sunday, 18th. – We have the Church Service in our Tent, and all who choose attend. The Governor landed in the afternoon and walked about a little. He seems pleased with the place and quite satisfied with what has been done.

Monday, 26th October. – His Excellency has this morning gone over to Manukao, and the Favorite and Britomart have taken their departure to Sydney and Hobart Town. The Governor has made our Tent his home, his Office and everything else; only sleeping on board the Favorite: he will now sleep on the Ranger, Cutter, and in a few days return in her to Russell. I shall be quite lonely again, after such a concourse of visitors. We spent a day on board the Favorite, and dined also on board the Britomart, but the weather was very showery and squally, all the time the ships were here, they must carry away an unfavorable impression of the place I fear.

Wednesday, October 28th. – The Governor returned yesterday from Manukao, and seemed much fatigued. He remained with us till after dinner today, and has just sailed in the Ranger on his return to Russell. He has at length decided on the situation for his house, which is to be erected with all speed. He intends to bring his family down and occupy a part of it by the beginning of the New Year. I doubt the possibility of any part of it being ready so soon. 73

[Mrs. Mathew's Journal ends at this point, except for the incomplete entry for February, 1844. The story of the founding of Auckland is,

however, carried a little further forward by Felton Mathew's Letter-Book, containing his reports to the Lt. Governor of the progress of the survey.

As Mrs. Mathew has recorded above, the Surveyor-General, immediately upon the arrival of the Anna Watson at the Waitemata, had selected sites for the construction of the Government Store (Commercial, or "Store" Bay), the residences of the officers (Official, or "Exclusion" Bay) and of the mechanics (Mechanics Bay), and Government House; and the work of building proceeded rapidly under the direction of William Mason, the Colonial Architect.

By November 14th, 1840, Mathew had surveyed the whole of the land comprehended by the Deed of Purchase of October, 1840, and submitted his plan of the Town of Auckland for approval. The eccentricity – or perhaps one should say the concentricity – of his design has given rise to much unfavourable criticism. Dr. S. Martin, writing in 1841, professed himself appalled at the strange and unaccountable blunder of laying out a town where "there is not a single square house in the whole settlement," and every street was made to slant and curve in a series of "quadrants, circuses, crescents,... circles or cobwebs"; he charges the Surveyor-General with refusing to pay the slightest attention to the lay of the land; and ridicules his idea of reclaiming the mudflats – "Mr. Mathew, like King Canute, is capable of entertaining strange ideas." 74 Since it has become almost customary for commentators since Martin to wax facetious at the expense of Mathew's "spider-

web" plan, it is only fair that he should be allowed to explain his own ideas on the subject: –

"With reference to the Plan of the Town, I have to observe, that in the disposition of the Streets &c, I have consulted the peculiar character and formation of the ground, a practice which I conceive to be indispensable in the arrangement of New Towns, as a means not only of promoting the immediate convenience of the early inhabitants, but of avoiding also the enormous expense entailed on the community, by the necessity which subsequently arises for cutting down hills and filling up hollows, where the streets are laid out in parallel lines, and at right angles, without any reference to the form of the ground. Guided by this principle, I have in several instances, adopted the Crescent form, as one to which the ground is peculiarly adapted: indeed it could not be made available in any other shape – and its fine commanding position, with a splendid view of the River and Harbour will give it a peculiar value as a most desireable spot for private residences; while the lower part of the Town will be the most suitable for shops and the general purposes of business.

"The portion of the Bay immediately in front of the Town, included between the two Points named (with his Excellency's approval) Point Stanley and Point Britomart, is dry at low water, and a ledge of Rocks extends from either point, which will be found to facilitate the erection of a Pier or Jetty which may be carried out to such a distance as to admit ships of large burthen to lie alongside for the purpose of discharging cargo. The formation of a Quay from Point to Point will be a means of recovering a large extent of very valuable land, the sale of which will far more than counterbalance the expense of executing these works; which are, in fact, in themselves, extremely simple, and requiring merely a moderate command of labour. In the present early stage of the Colony, and with the paucity

of labour from which it is now suffering, I am aware that such works would be both impolitic and impracticable – but looking to this place as the Port, and the medium of communication with all parts of the Interior of this Northern Island, I anticipate that at a very early period, the Government will find it desireable to carry these improvements into effect, and with this view, I have shewn them on my Plan. I should observe that the space between the Quay and the Jetty will afford a secure and commodious harbour for small vessels and boats, and a means also of their discharging or taking in Cargo, without interfering with the larger vessels tying outside."

Right or wrong, the Plan was approved by Hobson, and it has determined the shape of a good deal of the present City of Auckland – including the reclaimed dock area which now provides some of the best harbour facilities in the Dominion. The next step, the marking off of the allotments and the preparation of the descriptions for the first sale, was unavoidably held up by the inadequacy of the Survey staff. Mathew had to do the work unaided by so much as a clerk or a draughtsman. After one postponement from March 8th, the first sale took place on April 19th, 1841. Even then, only 119 small allotments, comprising about 44 acres, were offered for sale, and highly extravagant prices prevailed. The auction brought in over £21,000, the average price being about £555 per acre. Mathew, who had selected his lots in advance, found himself due to pay £582 for three bits of land aggregating less than an acre. A second official sale, of country and suburban lands, on September 1st, realised some £4,500 for about 600 acres. Hobson was disposed to jubilate over the revenue thus accruing, and based his estimates

on the expectation of a large annual income to the Land Fund. The shrewd comments of James Stephen, Permanent Colonial Under-Secretary, showed greater experience and foresight: – "(17th January, 1842) ... I confess that I cannot partake of the pleasure which the Governor feels in the high prices obtained for these Town Allotments. It is surely quite preposterous that Land should fetch as high a price at Auckland as in the immediate vicinity of London or Liverpool. This must be one of the bubbles which burst as surely as they are blown." 75 – Ed.]

59 Cit. Scholefield, "Hobson," p. 149.

60 Rough, "Early Days of Auckland" (1896).

61 Rough, op. cit.; and Facsimile of Treaty.

62 Supra, p. 174.

63 Internal Affairs Dept. Records, 1840, vol. 3.

64 Internal Affairs Dept. Records, 1840, folio 431.

65 Internal Affairs Dept. Records, Hobson's Letter-Book.

66 Internal Affairs Dept. Records, 1840, folio 477.

67 The mechanics' wives, of course, did not count.

68 The Platina had arrived at the Waitemata three days before the Anna Watson.

69 This was the fore-shore immediately west of Point Britomart, at the foot of present Queen Street.

70 On the heights of Point Britomart. Another flag-staff was shortly afterwards erected on Motu-Korehu, or Brown's Island, J. Logan Campbell and his partner William Brown, who had settled there early in 1840, being allowed to remain on sufferance till their claims were adjudicated.

71 Internal Affairs Dept. Records, 1840, vol. 3, folio 494. The Deed confirming this Agreement is printed in Barr, "City of Auckland," p. 40.

72 Charles Terry, F.R.S., F.S.A., who wrote "New Zealand: Its Advantages and Prospects" (1842).

73 The Governor took official possession of Government House, Auckland, on March 13th, 1841.

74 Cit. Sherrin & Wallace, "Early History," p. 554-5.

75 CO. 209/9.

CHAPTER IX. LIFE IN AUCKLAND IN THE EARLY 'FORTIES. FROM MRS. MATHEW'S AUTOBIOGRAPHY (1873)

CHAPTER IX.

LIFE IN AUCKLAND IN THE EARLY 'FORTIES

FROM MRS. MATHEW'S AUTOBIOGRAPHY (1873)

[The extracts which follow are taken from Mrs. Mathew's so-called "Diary," which is rather an autobiography, or book of reminiscences, written at Sleaford, England, about 1873. Though she is often hazy about details, the story she tells of early Auckland is full of delightful touches. – Ed.]

During this year [1840] great progress was made, the town laid out, public buildings erected, chiefly of wood, the harbour full of shipping, every week brought emigrants. As soon as the Governor's house was erected, he and his family came down to reside, but in the meantime, he used often to come in the Brig, and then was always our guest for meals, though he slept on board the Victoria which had been bought by the Government and the Command given to our friend Robert Richards. Often when I saw from our tent the Brig coming in, I have been greatly troubled how I should provide for our guests. Of course, there were no shops to go to. I had a supply of Preserved meats and soups, and the natives would perhaps bring some fish, if

I bribed them with a present of tobacco or flour or sugar. Then Helen and I had to make our preparations. We used to bake cakes in a camp oven, that is a sort of iron pot on legs, with a flat cover, on which hot embers can be put, as well as fire underneath.

We had at that time plenty of wood, which the Natives used to bring in huge loads on their backs, as well as potatoes and Kumeras, which they gladly sold to us for 6d. or 1/- according to size. If the weather were fine our gipsy cooking was comparatively easy, but in wet or windy weather it was a sore trouble. After a little time we had contrived a sort of shed for our cooking place, of poles and Rapoo like the Natives construct as shelter, and one day, when our dinner was cooking in this place, the wind blew some embers on to the dry reeds, which caught fire and in a minute it was all burnt down; of course the contents of oven and saucepans were all made into cinders; and what was most to be regretted, as irreparable for the time, were my new boots, which had been left in the shed to dry. I think we had a few visitors that unlucky day, which was a great relief to my mind; and in a few hours, when my husband returned soon rebuilt our primitive kitchen.

We used to buy Stores from the Ships which came in; barrels of American flour, and biscuits, and dried apples, the latter exceedingly good; they are pared, cut in quarters, strung upon twine, and so after drying in the sun, or oven, are packed in casks. We used to buy them from the American Whaleships, which are always supplied with these apples, as they are found to be an excellent antiscorbutic on long voyages. We used them for puddings and sauce for the Pork, which at first was the only fresh meat we could get; so we used to dress it in a variety of ways, with seasoning to make it resemble beef, mutton, or veal. The animals we used to buy from the Natives, and as they are nearly wild, the flesh was very different from the fed

Pork in this country, and much less unwholesome; it was very lean and dark coloured when dressed, not white as in England. Then if a Ship arrived from India or China, we used to get barrels of Sugar and bags of Rice, preserves and Tea in Chests. All these things were piled up at the back and side of our Tent, covered with Tarpaulins. I used to make my bread on the top of a cask outside the tent, and after a time we got Natives to build us a regular Native house of two rooms, with a roof of Palm leaves and Rapoo, or reed thatch over it; this was really a much more comfortable habitation than the tent, especially in wet or windy weather. The doors and window frames, we bought from an enterprising carpenter who made these things for sale, and for glass we had oiled calico, which kept out the rain and gave us light enough within, tho' of course no view.

Meantime work went on, the town was laid out, allotments sold, 76 people put up wooden houses and stores and shops, and a scite for the first Church was selected very judicially, on the highest point of land, just above our dwellings in Official Bay; it was to be St. Paul's, and would be a landmark at Sea to Ships as they entered the harbour. It was decided it should be built of brick, and the first stone was laid by the Governor, with all the ceremony which the presence of all the officers military naval and civil, and the freemasons could give. 77 We sometimes were visited by one of the Missionaries, who in their travels through the country, among the Natives, would stop and

give a service in our Marquee, but it was not for several Months that we had a regular Chaplain appointed. The first was Mr. Churton, who had come out from England with his family, with land orders from the N. Z. Company to Port Nicholson, on the southern shore of the Island, where the Company were anxious to place the seat of Government then, and called their town Wellington, but most of their settlers came up to Auckland and Mr. Churton was among them.

I think it was in the second year of our occupancy that we went with the Governor to visit these southern settlements, Wellington, Akaroa, and others in Cook's Strait. I took my little maid Helen with me as I could not leave her in our tent alone. We went in the Brig Victoria, and a most interesting excursion it was. Akaroa was a French Settlement, and there were two French ships lying in the harbour; and their officers came on board, and were most friendly and agreeable. The Superintendent of the French emigrants, a M. Bellini, was a very clever botanist and naturalist, and his conversation was delightful. He occupied a small house and was most hospitable. We used to dine there almost every day, for the Governor could not speak French, and I was obliged to make myself useful as interpreter to him, and the Frenchmen; some of the Officers could understand and read English but none could speak it. I was the only lady of the party, and of course was made a great deal of. I think we were here 4 or 5 days; the Governor with his aide de camp and secretary were in a Man of War, the Favorite, Captain Dunlop; we were in

the Victoria, the ships keeping near each other. When not in attendance on the Governor, we used to take long walks over the hills, and through the little settlement, where a few small huts or houses had been set up by the vine-dressers from the banks of the Rhine, who were to plant the sides of the hills with vineyards. Poor disappointed folk, they had been sadly deceived, and many had been utterly ruined.

From Akaroa we proceeded to Wellington, the ships in company, leaving on shore a Mr. Robinson who was appointed Police Magistrate, and was to represent British authority in this spot. Since this time the whole of that portion of the Middle Island has been settled, and is called the Province of Canterbury, with many populous towns and several Ports; but my reminiscences look back more than 30 years. I was very much pleased with the first view of Wellington – or rather the country, for town there was none at that time. A few scattered houses of wood, along the beach, contained the whole population. There was one of rather larger size than the rest, called an Hotel, and there rooms were taken for the Governor and his staff, and there we also found a room. It was more like a wooden box than a house, but it was a relief to be on shore again for a short time. Here we found great kindness from several of the inhabitants and we made some pleasant acquaintance. The Superintendent, Colonel Wakefield, had a small but comfortable wooden house, and he gave some dinner parties to the Governor to which we of course were invited. There was also a Mr. St. Hill, whose wife called on me, and with whom I spent some days pleasantly while my husband was engaged. They also lent us horses, and we had some beautiful rides through the forest to Porirua and other native settlements. Then there was held a grand "Korero" of the principal Native Chiefs, who came from various tribes to explain to the Governor that the Company had not paid for

[Inserted unpaginated illustration]

Mathew's Sketch of St. Paul's Church, Auckland

[Inserted unpaginated illustration]

The Mathews' House (with flagstaff), near St. Paul's Church
From a sketch by Col. R. H. Wynyard (1847)

the land they had taken, and there was a great deal of discontent, and some hostility among them. There were Missionaries to interpret their Speeches, and some were very threatening and unpleasant, but they were soothed with fair words and presents of Flour and sugar and plenty of Tobacco, and the Governor was persuaded that all would come right enough.

We had such a rough passage up the coast to the East Cape, near which is a curious Sulphur island, which we were desirous to visit, but it was blowing too hard, and we only saw the smoke which constantly rises from it. While we were away, we had given permission to Mr. Swainson the Attorney General, who had just arrived from England, to occupy our native house or "Warre." He had brought with him from England a framed house which would take some weeks to put up, so he was very glad of the accommodation we were able to afford him.

I think it was in the second year of the Settlement, that the city being now all laid out, the streets marked out and named, the sale of the Allotments took place, 78 and my husband bought two of them, in order to include the pretty spot on which our tents had first stood, and then our house was begun. A ship came in from Van Diemen's land or Tasmania as it is now called with a cargo of superior timber for building purposes, and of this our house was built. Its durability has been well tested, for now, after the lapse of more than thirty years, I understand the dear old house is as good as ever. It cost upwards of £2000, though of very moderate dimensions and simple construction, much after the fashion of an Indian Bungalow, all on the ground floor, with windows to the ground opening on a wide Verandah, and a terrace, beyond which a sloping lawn with flower beds and then a belt of shrubbery partly native trees,

but sown with acorns, chestnuts, walnuts, and planted with vines and fig trees, which we brought from Sydney. The Acorns were from the Oaks at Hobartville, the estate of our old friends the Coe's. Great changes have taken place, but I hear the Oaks are flourishing still. Twelve years ago, when I last saw the place, they were goodly trees.

We continued to inhabit our little Warre for some time after our return from the cruise to the South, making several expeditions by land exploring the country round Auckland, sometimes on foot, but generally on horseback, or in our boat, on the Manukao or Waitemata. One of our most fatiguing expeditions was to the top of the highest of the Volcanic Peaks on the Island of Rangitoto. We were accompanied on this occasion by our young friend, John du Moulin who was indeed at that time one of our family, Captain Rough the Harbour Master, and Captain England, a retired Officer who had come out to settle in the new Colony. Poor fellow he was killed by the Natives a few years afterwards, 79 but at that time, all was bright and hopefull, and no one had the least apprehension of hostilities. We started early in our boat, taking provisions with us. It was a beautiful day I remember in early spring time, when all the trees and shrubs were in flower – the bright yellow balls or tufts of the Acacias, with numbers of those beautiful birds the Tui, which specially affect these trees as if aware that their shining black plumage appeared to great advantage in contrast with the golden blossoms and graceful foliage of the Acacia, – then the "Rata" with its small red flowers, and the Fuschias with varied flowers, red or white or purple – and largest of all, the "Pohutokawa" which grows quite down to the coast, covered with large crimson tufted blossoms shaped like a bottle-brush. But besides all these,

and climbing over all, are the largest flowered white clematis I ever saw; and many other shrubs we noticed, as we clambered over the broken masses of Scoria of which the whole Island seems to be composed.

Track or path there was none after we left the Beach. We were more than three hours in the ascent, every step over huge masses of brittle substance, sometimes so thin as to break under our feet, every interstice filled with fern or shrubs and parasitic plants, which were in some places a help, their tough streamers giving us something to hold on by when the Scoria and broken rocks rolled from our feet. The height is by measurement only 900 or a thousand feet above the sea level, but the nature of the ground to be trodden, and the steepness of the ascent, makes it more fatiguing than many higher mountains. And there were deep hollows, extinct craters, which we had to go round, or descend into and ascend on the other side. Here the ground was bare of all vegetation, and was only a mass of fine cinders, into which, the feet would sink, as on a shingly beach, so we tried to keep to the steeper parts of the hill. The heat was excessive and not a drop of water was to be found all through that toilsome day.

At last we reached the summit, all quite exhausted, and sat down to rest and breathe. We found the top of the mountain was a deep hollow and surrounded by irregular Peaks, apparently formed by the action of the Volcanoe throwing up heaps of ashes or scoria in several directions, probably at different periods. It must have been long extinct by the quantity and size of the vegetation. But what a wonderfully extensive view we gained from this point – all the Frith of Thames studded with its islands, the great and little Barrier islands with their rich Copper mines, the dense forest of the island Waiheke, the Mercury isles, Coromandel with its gold diggings, then suspected but all as yet

unknown, and then Koreho sleeping in the sunshine, and the little busy hive we had left in the morning scarcely to be distinguished from the unknown forest. The wind blew so strong on the summit, we could scarcely stand, and after resting awhile, and making a fire of the dead wood, which burned for some days, we began our descent, trying what appeared an easier way, than that by which we ascended. It seemed from the top of the mountain as if a stream of Scoria and stones had poured over the lip of the crater, quite down to the shore; but this was broken by deep fissures, and in places so covered with vegetation that our progress was often impeded. The sharp rocks and scoria had worn my boots to pieces, and my dress of grey merino was torn in shreds, struggling through the thorny brush wood, and by the sharp edges of the rocks. Thankful was I to see the shore and boat at last, where we had some wine, but no water had been found, tho' the men left with the boat had searched half round the island for some spring or stream. This absence of water would account for there being no living creature on it; we saw nothing, not even a bird. We were all quite exhausted, and after a short rest returned to Auckland.

It was quite dark when we landed, and we had scarcely reached our house, when my husband was taken with faintness and shivering which alarmed me very much. I sent for Dr. Johnson who administered brandy, and sat with him some time after he got to bed. He told me it was exhaustion from over-exertion, and that he would be well in the morning, which was indeed the case after a night's rest. This alarm quite cured my fatigue. I watched the greater part of the night, and felt no want of sleep, tho' previously in the boat, I had scarcely been able to keep my eyes open.

But I must recall other scenes besides these, our solitary wanderings and excursions, for as the months and years

rolled on, great advances had been made and there were social duties to be performed. The Governor and Mrs. Hobson had taken up their abode at Government House, and there were many families now, besides the official circle. So there were visits to pay and receive, there were parties and balls, and a Philharmonic Society established of amateurs, who met at each other's houses, and subsequently at an hotel, the first which had been built, and was called "Wood's." Here there was a large room which was used for such public entertainments; and our Philharmonic meetings every month generally ended with a dance. We thought it right to take our part in these duties to Society, and aids to civilization; but we were never so happy as when alone, and at home, reading or conversing, though always ready to give up these our favourite occupations, when the duties of hospitality required it.

Travelling missionaries would sometimes come for a night on their way, and we had now a house, large enough to afford this accommodation. About this time before our house was finished, our friend Mr. Whitaker 80 wished to marry Miss Griffiths. He was building himself a house, but it was far from completion, so we prepared and furnished two rooms in our house for them, which they were glad to occupy for 2 months and more while their own was made habitable. Weddings generally took place at Government House, before the Church was built, and generally all those who had the entree were invited. We had seen the marriage of Mr. Coates to Miss Bendall, the lady had come from Sydney for the purpose, and was staying with Mrs. Hobson. Then there was Mr. Young, who married Miss Hargraves; she came out with the Chaplain Mr. Churton. Then there was Miss Short who came out with Mrs. Hobson as governess to her children; she married Captain Rough the harbour-

master. On these occasions the weddings took place in the Evenings, and there was always a ball afterwards, when the Governor would dance the first quadrille with the Bride. Of course there were no honeymoons in those days, the brides walked quietly to their new homes, and the bridegrooms were seen at their post next day attending to their duty. The family of Miss Griffiths being Presbyterians, Mr. Whitaker was married in their house by the Minister of the Scotch Church, and then came down to our house, after dinner, to which we had been invited. Another Bride whom we helped to prepare for, was Mrs. Shortland. She too was married at her Father's house, Mr. Fitzgerald, and there were no wedding-guests; but Mr. Shortland (he was then Colonial Secretary) had built a house next to ours, and he had asked me to make suitable arrangements, and prepare the rooms for her reception, as he had only a manservant; and in the evening we received them at dinner (in their own house) accompanied by Mr. and Mrs. Fitzgerald; soon after which we all retired and left them. I can't remember whose was the first wedding celebrated in the Church. I suppose it must have been some people in whom I was not interested, for Auckland was now becoming quite populous, and the streets were rapidly taking form, houses and shops filling up very fast.

It was during the second year of our occupancy, that our good Bishop Selwyn arrived, but he did not come to reside at the College near Auckland founded by him till two or three years after his arrival in the country, having taken up his abode at Waimate the oldest Missionary Station, 15 miles from the Bay of Islands, on his first arrival with Mrs. Selwyn and his Chaplain, Mr. Cotton. But he used to visit us sometimes in his tours throughout the island,, which he always made on foot attended by a train of Natives.

Soon after this I think it was that Governor Hobson

died after a short illness. Indeed he had never recovered properly from the first attack of paralysis, which he had when first arriving on the Coast in the Herald. A second and third seizure in quick succession carried him off. Poor man, he retained the rule of the Colony, when quite incapable of coping with the difficulties which increased with every year, and lived long enough to involve the Colony and everyone connected with the Government in ruin. But of course, poor man, he was greatly lamented by his family, and personally, he was much liked by all his officers; but his measures were weak, and his policy vacillating, and injurious. He was taken away from his post at a critical juncture, and his successor suffered from the evil consequences of measures not his own.

The Natives were becoming extremely irritated. Some terrible acts of cruelty had been discovered. The murder of poor Captain England, and others, especially what was then called the Wairau Massacre, had aroused the fears of the white population, then comparatively but a handfull, whom the Natives declared they would drive into the sea. The death of Captain Arthur Wakefield, and his seven companions at the Wairau, 81 was clearly the result of a most rash and ill advised attack on a Native village, by a small body of the Nelson settlers, under the orders of their Chief Magistrate, Mr. Thompson, and the Superintendent Captn. Wakefield....

Poor Mr. Thompson had a wife and child, they returned to England. A young settler named Moliny had a wife and two young children. She poor thing on hearing the dreadful tidings of her husband's death lost her senses

and died shortly after. The poor little orphans were brought up to Auckland by the Bishop, and our friends and neighbours, Captain Rough and his wife, adopted them, aided in some small degree by the Bishop and others. The boy, now grown up, is doing well and independently as a surveyor, and his sister is still a daughter to Mrs. Rough. Of the other victims I know nothing, but I think they were unmarried, as was Captn. Arthur Wakefield.

76 Supra, page 198.

77 This ceremony occurred July 8th, 1841. In 1885, when workmen were engaged in the demolition of the old church, its foundation stone was unearthed at the east end of the church, and in a cavity of the stone, a broken bottle containing coins and a copy of the "New Zealand Herald and Auckland Gazette" for Saturday, July 31, 1841, containing a full account of the ceremony. The "New Zealand Herald" (March, 1885), which reports this curious incident, comments: – "The actors at that ceremonial could hardly have fancied that in 1885, the very face of nature would be changed in the place where they then stood, that the 'beautifully situated' hill on which they were about to build what they were proud to call the 'metropolitan' church, would be taken away bodily to make level ground in the harbour on which to build a large railway station and a place for freezing meat for exportation."

78 Supra page 198.

79 Captain England was one of those killed at Wairau, June 17, 1843. Vide infra, p. 211 note.

80 Later Sir Frederick Whitaker.

81 In all, some twenty settlers lost their lives in this miserable affray, a number being shot before Captain Wakefield and his seven companions laid down their arms, only to be slaughtered in cold blood. See accounts by W. P. Reeves, "Long White Cloud"; G. W. Rusden, "History of New Zealand"; and A. Saunders, "History of New Zealand."

CHAPTER X. THE STATE OF NEW ZEALAND – NATIVE TROUBLES. TWO REVIEWS BY FELTON MATHEW

CHAPTER X.

THE STATE OF NEW ZEALAND – NATIVE TROUBLES

TWO REVIEWS BY FELTON MATHEW

[Amongst the miscellaneous papers of the Mathew collection are two articles of date 1845 and 1847 respectively, on the "Present Condition and Future Prospects of New Zealand." Ostensibly they are written by Felton Mathew, though the shrewdness of some of the comments makes one suspect that his wife had a hand in their production. They were possibly intended as articles for publication in some English periodical: and the material is probably very much the same as Mathew supplied to the Secretary of State during his visit to England in 1844-5, when, as his wife's journal says, he was much harassed by continual attendance at the Colonial Office and at Parliament. Much of the first article – there are eighty-four closely written foolscap sheets – is given over to a series of detailed suggestions for curtailing Government expenditure in New Zealand – a

subject more interesting (one hopes) to the research student than to the general reader. But the ex-Surveyor-General's views on certain larger public questions – native unrest, land problems, Governor FitzRoy's financial experiments, migration, etc. – seem interesting enough to reproduce. The second article, written just before his last voyage from New Zealand, gives a valuable account of the native troubles at the Bay of Islands, the Hutt Valley, Wanganui, and Taranaki. Though not uncoloured by prejudice – local and personal – Mathew's opinions are entitled to consideration as coming from one whose official position enabled him to acquire inside information on these questions.]

VIEWS ON THE PRESENT STATE AND FUTURE PROSPECTS OF NEW ZEALAND

BY FELTON MATHEW [1845] – Extracts

"The present state and future prospects of New Zealand form a subject replete with the liveliest interest to all who have at heart the well-being of our Colonies generally and specially of this – almost the latest and avowedly one of the fairest appanages of the British Crown.... It is melancholy to reflect that its progress has been retarded by a series of untoward events and unfortunate blunders, such as the early records of few other Colonies present.... A crisis has arrived in the affairs of New Zealand....

The Policy adopted by the present local Government towards the Natives has produced the effect which all who know the character of those acute and astucious savages, foresaw and predicted – the same namely which is observ-

able in spoiled and petted children whom injudicious fondness and indulgence render froward, presumptuous and impertinent – unsettled and unhappy themselves and a pest to all around them. The well meant but mistaken kindness lavished upon them, and the leniency shown to their open, glaring and palpable offences against the Europeans have been attributed, not to good will and forbearance, but to weakness and fear.

Impunity has rendered the Aborigines daring and impudent. The most daring outrages and robberies are committed openly and in the face of day, with impunity. In some parts the settlers are driven off and prevented from cultivating Lands which have been fairly and fully purchased. And by the last accounts, the settlement in the Bay of Islands was almost in a state of siege; the Flagstaff had been, for the third time, cut down by the notorious Native Chief John Heke, the shops and stores in the Town were all closed, the inhabitants keeping watch and ward, preparing to defend their lives and property, while many had already left, and the rest were ready to leave at the first alarm of the expected attack from these turbulent and audacious Tribes. And these apprehensions were not, as on some former occasions, without foundation; since even the Missionaries and those amongst them who best know the native character participate in the feeling, and have thought it equally necessary to make provision for the safety of their families, a measure into which all the wars disturbance and bloodshed of the past twenty years has never before forced them. 82

We do not mean to impute blame to the local Government for not adopting stronger measures in the various

cases of aggression on European person and property which have occurred during the past year. We blame it not for this, simply because it had not the means of at once and effectually putting down all opposition to its commands and compelling obedience to its laws, without which the least attempt at coercion would have been an act of madness, compromising the safety of the whole European population.

Next to the condition of the Aborigines, the subject of deepest interest connected with New Zealand is the state of the Revenue. It is impossible to deny that Captn. Hobson's administration was marked by a most lavish and injudicious expenditure, based on the anticipated prosperity of the Colony, and the expected productiveness of the Land fund – an idea nurtured by Captn. Hobson's previous knowledge of one of the Australian settlements, Port Philip, which he had assisted in forming, and the fatal consequences of whose precocious prosperity (if it can be called such) had not then become apparent. At the period of his death, however, although the Land fund was no longer productive yet the Customs were still a fruitful source of Revenue; and the expenditure might at that time, by a judicious hand, have been cut down and restricted in such a manner as not to exceed the limits of that Revenue, with such assistance as the British Parliament was disposed to render. Something, it must be allowed, was done by the officer [Lt. Willoughby Shortland] who administered the Government during the interval between Captn. Hobson's death and the present Governor's arrival in the way of reducing the expenditure; but it was seldom done with judgment – though some allowance must in fairness be made for the absence of all definite instructions from home, and the limited powers of one who was a mere locum tenens.

On the arrival of the present Governor [Captn. Robert FitzRoy] a favourable opportunity was afforded

for remodelling the Government, for pruning all that was superfluous and unnecessary, and for effecting such a consolidation of offices as might reduce the actual expenditure without impairing the efficiency of the Government.... Some reductions were certainly effected in the expenditure, but they were counterbalanced by an increase in other Items. The first attempt to increase the Revenue was by the imposition of direct Taxes; but in such a shape as to excite universal reprobation and opposition among the Colonists. The consequence was their immediate abandonment. As a substitute an amended Customs ordinance was passed, imposing an additional "ad valorem" duty of 5 per Ct. on all Imports.

This measure was, at first, rather unpalatable to many, and was loudly protested against by the few as being directly at variance with their "free trade" notions. A little reflection however reconciled almost every one to the measure, and it was beginning to work well.

In about a month, however, the Ports of New Zealand were all declared "free" and the Council was again hastily called together to rescind its own act which had scarcely had time to come into operation in some parts of the Colony. The motive alleged for this unlooked-for step was a feeling of discontent said to exist among the Natives at the high price paid by them for their Tobacco, which they had been taught to attribute to the Customs – and the gradual abandonment of the Ports of New Zealand (principally the Bay of Islands) by Whalers – chiefly Americans, by which the Native Trade in Pigs, Potatoes (not to mention women) formerly carried on with those ships, had been much injured – and which the Natives were taught also to attribute to the establishment of Customs....

The Customs at this time were producing about £20,000 per annum, and by their abolition, it is evident that the Government deprived itself of almost its only source

of Revenue – that too at a time, when various modes of direct Taxation had been tried and failed, when the Treasury was empty, officers' Salaries in arrear, the Land Fund totally unproductive, and the Parliamentary Grant limited to £7500 per annum.

Almost immediately after this a further concession was made to the Natives – hastily, without due deliberation, and without previous reference home – by allowing them the almost unrestricted privilege of selling their Land to whomsoever they pleased, thereby at once cutting off all possibility of deriving any future revenue from that source.

As a substitute for Customs, an Act was passed imposing a Tax of 1 per Cent on all Incomes and Property, leaving it however to the good faith of the people to assess themselves....

The intention of the measure is in a great degree neutralised by the avidity of the Shopkeepers, who continue to sell to the Natives, on much the same terms as formerly; the surplus profit arising from the absence of Customs, finding its way quietly into their own pockets. Indeed as a measure for the benefit of the Aborigines, nothing could be more fallacious than the abolition of Customs, since it is a notorious and incontrovertible fact, that from the numerous facilities afforded by the nature of the Coast, to smuggling, the Tobacco sold to the Natives never paid Duty.

A further objection to the existing Property and Income Tax may be raised from its unequal pressure on the different Classes of the community. The honest and the willing are taxed to the uttermost; the Capitalist, without whose exertions the progress of the Colony will indeed be slow, is taxed to the uttermost; while the selfish and the fraudulent are allowed to tax themselves at discretion, and no check is, or indeed can be placed on their dishonesty; and last of all the Mechanic and the Labourer, having an Income of not more than £50 per annum, are altogether

exempt from the operation of the Tax.... As a financial measure, the thing is a complete failure. Extraordinary exertions were made by the few Advocates of "Free Trade" to make the Tax as productive as possible: – - but after all, the results shew that it will not produce £3000 a year, even if it do not fall very much below that sum, which appears the more probable hypothesis: – while its Moral effects may be gathered from the fact as notorious as the Sun at Noonday, that many persons have under-rated both their Property and Income, many from ostentation, or from still more questionable motives have as grossly over-rated themselves – while many, as might have been expected, have declined rating themselves at all....

The increase of this [turbulent] spirit among the Natives may be traced to one cause among others which has not perhaps been sufficiently considered, namely, the diminished influence of the Chiefs, which has been considerably on the wane, since the Colonization of the Islands, and which enables men of little note and importance in their several Tribes – men, who in days of yore durst not for their lives have taken an active part in any movement, without the approval of the higher Chiefs – to commit aggressions with impunity, and to act with every degree of independence, which in their primitive condition they could not have attempted, without incurring serious consequences. The character of the Aborigines of New Zealand has by the admission of even their warmest friends, been very much over-rated. Casual visitors, by whom they have been most frequently described, struck by a few salient points in their character, which indicate great shrewdness and sagacity – and suffering their enthusiasm to get the better of their judgement – have invested them with qualities and attributes of a far higher nature than they really possess. The Missionaries themselves, even the most intelligent of them, if they have not actually sustained, at least did not

attempt to destroy this delusion: – and it is easy to understand the very pardonable feeling which would prompt them to avoid undeceiving the British public on this point. Dependent as their body is, for the means of carrying on their great work, on the contributions of that Public, it is not unnatural that they should rather have inclined to magnify their labours, by exalting the character of their Converts. Truth to tell however, the New Zealanders are acute, intelligent Savages, susceptible no doubt of a considerable degree of civilization – but they are after all, still Savages – and every attempt to deal with them in all cases as more enlightened beings, will signally fail, as indeed it has. Hence therefore, as they have been tempted by impunity to trample on the patience, and to infringe the rights of the British Settlers, it will be necessary to coerce them – to teach them that while we have every wish and intention, to protect, to serve, and to benefit them, yet that we have not the less, the spirit, the determination, and above all the power to protect ourselves from aggression, and to enforce obedience to our Laws, which are established for the mutual protection of both Native and European. And be it borne in mind that the mere possession of this power would be sufficient, and would render the exercise of it unnecessary. New Zealanders are peculiarly sensitive on points affecting their own Interests; are most acute in calculating their chances, and very quick in discovering how far they may go with impunity, in their attempts at extortion or fraud. Thus if the local Government had a force for apprehending offenders and vindicating the laws, which was sufficient to defy all opposition, it would never be called on to exercise that Power – the mere exhibition of it would always be sufficient, and the Natives would never attempt an aggression when they knew that we had at command the means of repelling and of punishing it."

A final settlement of the Land question, he proceeded, was an indispensable condition of the tranquilisation of the Natives, who were extremely sensitive and jealous on this point. No attempt at conciliation could hope to succeed which did not allow the Natives entire freedom to dispose of their lands to whomsoever they pleased, though it might be found necessary for the Government to subject this right to certain regulations.

The recent Report of the Committee of the House of Commons, in which the view was put forward that the Government could claim as of right all lands in New Zealand which were not actually under cultivation by the Natives, disclosed a serious misunderstanding of the position. Mathew, being cognisant of all the circumstances, and having been present at the signing of the Treaty at Waitangi, Hokianga, Waitemata and the Thames, confidently asserted that on each of these occasions the Natives had extracted reiterated promises from Hobson as to their possession of their tribal lands. They had been exceedingly reluctant to sign the Treaty at all

"until assured that there was no intention by the Government to interfere with them in the sale of their lands, further than by requiring that they should sell to the Government alone, and not to private individuals. On this point they for a long time made a determined stand, and were induced at last to concede, only from the expectation that the Government would always be ready to purchase their Land as fast as they wanted to sell it." Never for a moment was the doctrine advanced by Captain Hobson that the Government claimed all uncultivated Native land. Any such claim would have been

indignantly repelled; "it would have rendered the execution of that, or any other Treaty impossible."

After a lengthy analysis of the details of public finance, Mathew concludes with some interesting observations of immigration. First, he deplored the scattering of the settlements in New Zealand, which so greatly enhanced the difficulties of the Government.

"In New Zealand there are five principal settlements, and three or four minor ones, exclusive of numerous scattered stations, where small numbers of Europeans are congregated together, but without any Government establishment; and the New Zealand Company, it appears, are about to form another at Port Otago, nearly the most remote part of the Middle Island and distant from the Capital at least seven hundred miles, and three hundred from Nelson, the nearest of their own settlements. How unfavourable such a practice must necessarily be to the advancement of the Colony, it is scarcely necessary to observe. The numerous evils resulting from it cannot be too strongly deprecated."

As to the future of the Colony, he looked forward to the time when the Natives should be tranquilised. Once pacified, they would form an inexhaustible supply of agricultural labour. Therefore he concluded that what New Zealand principally wanted was not so much immigration of labour as immigration of capital; and he addressed a warning to the intending colonist. "We are not of those who look on emigration as a panacea for all the evils of the body politic – but whatever may be its effect on that body, we regard it, as respects individuals as a serious evil. It is indeed no light or trivial matter to sacrifice home, country, and friends – all the associations and reminiscences of youth, and all the ties and

connexions of more mature age. We say therefore to every man – Stay at home if you can – subdue your pride – moderate your desires, and if you can in any way live, and fill an useful station at home in your native country, remain where you are – for an Englishman there is no country like England. But if you cannot find employment for your time and faculties, or provide perhaps the means of subsistence for a family – if you have the manliness and energy to despise a life of Idleness, and the resolution to labour, however hard, for those you love – go to New Zealand, where Nature is generous luxuriant and fertile beyond your warmest conceptions – where she will reward you tenfold for all the labour you bestow on her, and where you may enjoy a climate adapted beyond all others to an English constitution. But go as a tiller of the ground – go with a resolution to work hard – for the most fatal error into which you can fall, is to suppose that ease and indolence in a new country will command success – they do so nowhere, certainly not in New Countries where under the most favourable circumstances many difficulties are to be subdued before the wilderness can be made to blossom like the rose. But in New Zealand success will surely attend honest Industry, and the humblest individual may go thither, secure that with a spade, a good pair of arms, and a determination to work, he can never want the necessaries and comforts of Life."

SECOND ARTICLE ON THE "PRESENT STATE AND FUTURE PROSPECTS OF NEW ZEALAND"

BY FELTON MATHEW (1847) – Extracts

"... It is true that Captain FitzRoy had a very difficult game to play; and amidst the general indignation

felt at the absurdity of many of his acts, and the vacillation and imbecility of nearly all, the real difficulties of his position have been overlooked, and he has been unequivocally condemned for his many errors, when perhaps he should rather be applauded for not having committed many more. Previously to his assumption of the Government a feeling of dissatisfaction and distrust had been long secretly growing among the Natives fostered by many evil disposed and insidious Europeans, whose avocations (Pig and flax dealing, &c.) took them much through the interior of the country, and whose conduct and character together with their acquaintance with the language, manner, and habits of the natives, were calculated to give them considerable influence; especially among the more distant tribes, whose infrequent communication with our settlements deprived them of the opportunity of drawing unfavourable comparisons between their European friends in the Bush and those whom they would have encountered in the Towns. British Authority began to be treated lightly, the British soldier, formerly regarded with a sort of mysterious awe as a superior and an absolutely invincible being, now seen (I regret to say) but too commonly drunk and reeling about the streets, soon lost favor in the eyes of the native, who seeing him to be very commonly a man of less thewes and bulk than himself, and regardless of anything like self respect or decency of demeanour, soon began to look on him as a mere "Cookey" (slave) in a red coat, and fancied that there could be no difficulty in a Maori with a musket in his hand, beating a man whom he so frequently saw incapable of taking care of himself. Then came naturally enough, among the young men the desire of measuring their strength with these terrible soldiers, of whom they had been accustomed to think with so much dread, and this feeling, acting on the vague and undefined fears which all – young and old – entertained that somehow or other, by some

juggling which they could not understand, and at a time when they least expected it, their land was to be taken from them – produced a feverish restlessness which vented itself in robberies and various acts of petty aggression, and occasioned a number of daring and discontented young men to congregate in the Northern part of the Island, where they found a congenial spirit in the now far famed "Heki." Thus, with a bankrupt government and a large native population gradually rising into turbulence, Captain FitzRoy assumed the reins of Government with an empty Treasury, and a military force of One hundred and fifty men to protect six or seven scattered settlements. No wonder that he failed! Few men would or could have done otherwise; the wisest would have been he who strongly represented the state of things to the British Government, and then quietly sat down with folded hands untill men and money had been sent to him.

Next comes Captain Grey, who previously to his arrival had acquired among the natives the rather unfortunate prestige of being the "fighting" Governor, the soldier who was come to set them all to rights, and to take their Land from them by force. It is difficult to say how such an idea originated, but that it existed there can be no possible doubt – and it is most unfortunate that it should have been so, because it necessarily induced a feeling of distrust on the part of the Natives, which was calculated to irritate their worst fears, and tended very much to embarrass the intercourse between them and the Government.

Proud of the destruction of Kororarika and elated with their subsequent successes against our Military and Naval force at Okiahou and Ouhiawai, the Natives in the neighbourhood of the Bay [of] Islands, at the period of Captain Grey's arrival, were little disposed to treat for peace. Captain FitzRoy's injudicious proposal of terms was scornfully rejected, and a long period of inaction having

elapsed it was necessary to strike a blow and endeavour to do something. Kawiti's Pah [Ruapekapeka] on the River Kawa Kawa was accordingly invested, and after resisting for some time successfully all attempts made to capture it, was taken by surprise one Sunday morning, when by the ingenuity of our native allies, it was discovered that the defenders were all engaged outside the Pah in celebrating Divine Worship. Possession however was not secured without a severe struggle, and an attempt was made to retake it, which had nearly proved successful. Eventually however the hostile Tribe was repelled, the Pah destroyed, and the British force commenced its return to the Bay of Islands. So great however was the apprehension of an attack from the natives en route, that the march soon became a hasty and ill conducted retreat; all order and discipline were lost, Officers had no command over their men, drays loaded with ammunition stuck in the mud, left without escort, and every man making the best of his way regardless of others, to his destination. Strange as this may appear, it is nevertheless strictly true. Had the hostile natives who were certainly in the neighbourhood taken advantage of this scene of confusion the whole detachment would have been cut off, and the guns and ammunition captured.

Nothing indeed is more remarkable than the chivalrous feeling they exhibited throughout the whole war, in never attempting to cut off detached parties of our men, or supplies of provisions which were always sent without escort, through a country where nothing would have been easier than for a dozen natives to have intercepted them. And it was well known at the time that they were always aware of the transit of the supplies, but they have been often heard to say that they did not wish to deprive the soldiers of food, and that there was no glory in fighting with hungry men. After the destruction of Ruapekapeka –

Kawiti's stronghold – all parties being tired of the war, the period for planting potatoes having come round, of which our native allies were as anxious as our enemies to avail themselves, there was not much difficulty in patching up a peace, which was accordingly done, the principal part of the troops was withdrawn and the Governor returned to Auckland. The snake however is scotched, not killed, and it is to be feared that Heki will not long remain without excuse for renewing his hostile demonstrations.

In the meantime disturbances had taken place between the Europeans and natives in the neighbourhood of Wellington – the Company's principal Settlement in Cook's Strait. A murder had been committed, a stockade attacked by the natives and many lives lost. The natives were eventually driven out of the valley of the Hutt, and the Chief Rangihaieta and his party entrenched themselves at Porirua, about 12 Miles from Wellington. Old Rauparaha appears to have conducted himself with his usual craft, and without rendering active assistance to his countrymen, doubtless was not willing to take an active part against them. In August 1846 however Captain Grey took it into his head that he was not only secretly aiding Rangihaieta but that he had actually joined in a plot to entrap the Governor and the whole Military force. There does not appear to have been the slightest evidence in support of this notion, which rested solely on the ipse dixit of some of our native allies – Rauparaha's enemies of course. However on the mere suspicion, a party of Soldiers was dispatched, who gallantly captured the old man in his bed before daylight in the morning. He was taken on board H. M. S. Calliope at Wellington where without trial or enquiry of any kind he was detained untill the month of June 1847 83 when Captain Grey brought him

to Auckland and placed him in the charge of our two friendly Chiefs "Te Whero Whero" and "Neni" or "Tamati Walker" as he is now more commonly called. It would be difficult to imagine a step more absurd and injudicious than this apprehension and detention of Rauparaha. A high spirited fiery and vindictive old man, one of the most powerful chiefs in the Island, he will never forget or forgive the indignity to which he has been subjected, and will never be satisfied untill he has revenge. And in addition to the bad effect produced on the mind of the old Chief himself, it has been a means of producing in the natives generally a want of that faith and confidence in the British Government which, to a certain extent, they had always previously entertained. They are now afraid of placing themselves under any circumstances within our reach, lest they should be treated like Rauparaha.

How the matter may be looked upon in England it is impossible to say; but it is strongly deprecated here by all except the New Zealand Company and its people. A more serious affair however than this occurred shortly after, namely in October (1846). A native named Martin Luther, a relative of the Chief Rangihaieta, was surprised by some of our native allies, having – as his countrymen invariably have, in time of war particularly – his musket and cartouche box with him. He was taken into Wellington, tried by Court Martial on a charge of being found in arms against her Majesty!! and hanged forthwith. Captain Grey who was in Wellington at the time of his capture, is said (and I fear but too truly) to have told the Commanding Officer that if he could make out any charge against Luther, it might have a very good effect in intimidating the natives. The officer, not too scrupulous of course – and attaching no greater value to human life, especially the life of a poor savage, than soldiers usually do – took the hint; and poor Luther was sacrificed. This transaction was loudly

stigmatised at the time as a deliberate, cold blooded judicial murder, and such it was. Instead of intimidating the natives it has had the effect of inducing a deep and deadly-spirit of revenge which has shown itself in subsequent occurrences. What the ultimate results may be it is impossible to tell.

And now the seat of war is removed to "Wanganui," a wretched little settlement in Cook's Strait, about 80 miles NW. from Port Nicholson. The River has a most dangerous bar at its mouth which is scarcely at any time practicable for boats. There is a little good land some distance up the river, and here the New Zealand Company induced some of its unhappy victims to take their land. The Settlement is, or rather was, situated about 5 Miles up the river, and here a small number of Europeans located themselves. Their number never exceeded from 170 to 180, of whom the far greater part were children.

As this unhappy settlement has attained, and seems likely to retain, an unfortunate celebrity in New Zealand history, it is of importance to trace its origin, and the primary cause of all the mischiefs which have subsequently arisen. These are very little known, especially in England where they have been most sedulously kept in the background. I will however now detail them, and can vouch for their authenticity. The New Zealand Company being unable to provide land for its settlers in the neighbourhood of Wellington naturally turned its attention to other places, and the river Wanganui having been favorably reported of by its surveyors, Col. Wakefield despatched his nephew Edward Jerningham Wakefield for the purpose of purchasing the Land on that river from the natives. Jerningham [came] from Wellington [and treated with] an old chief named "Kurukanga," who was understood to have some claim to the Land, and from whom he purchased to a considerable extent – a certain payment was made to

this chief, and to him only. No attempt appears to have been made to ascertain if there were any other claimants to the Land, or to satisfy [them] if there were. The land was soon after surveyed by the Company's Surveyors, and some of the settlers who had purchased and paid for the Lands in England were forthwith put in possession of sections at Wanganui or "Petre" as they called it.

The Natives in the interior, at the head of the River, soon found out that the Europeans had taken possession, and immediately came down on the Settlers, claiming different portions which they averred that the Chief Kurukanga had no property in, and no right to sell. Much litigation took place in consequence – it is the old evil, which is at the root of all the misfortunes which have beset New Zealand to the present hour.

The matter was referred to the Commissioner Mr. Spain, who determined that the purchase had not been completed by the Company, that the Natives were justly entitled to the land which they claimed, and had not received any payment for it. Mr. George Clarke, son of the protector of Aborigines, was then appointed to award to the natives an adequate compensation, with a view to extinguish their title. He awarded them the Sum of One Thousand Pounds, and at a meeting in the presence of the Commissioner at which Col. Wakefield, the Company's principal Agent was present, that sum was tendered to them by Mr. Clarke. The Natives refused to accept it, on two grounds (1st) That they did not wish to sell their Lands at all; (2) That the payment proposed was insufficient. On this, the Commissioner declared that he considered the payment quite adequate, and that if they refused to receive it he should nevertheless consider the bargain to have been completed by the New Zealand Company and that he should order the Money to be paid to the Local Government with a recommendation that it should

be invested in some manner for the benefit of them – the Natives. This was accordingly done, and the money was paid to Mr. Clarke on behalf of the Natives. That gentleman having no means of conveying back to Wellington so large a sum as £1,000 requested Col. Wakefield to allow it to remain in his strong box, which was assented to. Shortly after, Col. Wakefield being in want of money, made use (for the Company of course) of this £1000, and deposited in its stead Bills on England for that amount. Soon afterwards the natives held another meeting on the subject of the Land at Wanganui, the result of which was that they resolved to accept the offer which had been made; and they accordingly communicated to the Local Government that they were prepared to take the £1000. On recourse being had to the Company's Agent, it was found that the Cash had been exchanged for Bills, and this being just at the period of the Company's Insolvency, its Agent was not in a position to replace the money. The Government, also in a state of Insolvency, Debentures its only Currency, was equally unable to meet the difficulty, and so nothing could be done in the matter. It was afterwards proposed that those Sections only which were already occupied by Europeans, should be purchased, as the means might possibly have been found of paying for them. But this the Company's Agent refused to assent to. Captain Fitz-Roy then offered to remove the Settlers to Auckland and give them compensation there, but this offer was indignantly rejected. The matter of the disappearance of the money which had been openly tendered to the Natives, was explained to them so as to exonerate the Government from blame, and so the affair of the purchase of Wanganui has remained to the present time (September, 1847).

Now throughout the whole of this transaction no one appears to have been struck with the impropriety, the gross injustice of endeavouring to force these natives to sell their

Land merely because the New Zealand Company had committed its usual blunder of sending settlers to occupy Land which it had not bought. It may be – and I believe has been – urged that they merely wished to keep possession for the purpose of procuring eventually a higher price. Very probably – and have they not a perfect right to do so? Imagine a similar case in England. I hold a small Estate adjoining the property of a wealthy neighbour – to whom my Estate would be most valuable, and I know will become more so every year. What would be thought of an attempt to compel me to sell my property on the plea that I am keeping it solely with the view of getting a higher price? I see no difference in the two cases. Such, however, was the result of the attempt to purchase Wanganui, and thus matters stood on Captain Grey's arrival in the Colony. The natives from time to time continued to send hostile messages to the Settlers, telling them that the land was theirs and that they would certainly come down and take possession. The unhappy settlers were of course kept in a state of perpetual anxiety and suspense, never certain from hour to hour that they might not be attacked, their homes plundered, and their lives jeopardised.

Things remained in this state untill some little time after Captain Grey's arrival, when the Revd. Mr. Taylor the Episcopalian Clergyman for the district of "Wanganui" represented to the Governor that the disposition of the Natives was becoming in his opinion so seriously hostile that unless Military protection were extended to the Settlements, he did not consider the lives or property of the inhabitants secure. In an evil hour the ill-judged request for troops was listened to, and a Detachment of (I think) 150 men was sent there, who were to entrench themselves in a strong stockade on the Bank of the River and close to the Settlements. No step could possibly have been taken, more injudicious, more replete with danger to the

European Settlers, or more likely to be productive (as it has proved) of disgrace to the British Arms. So long as the settlers remained there alone, they might and would have been annoyed and plundered, but their lives would in all probability have been safe. But the sending armed men to a place is, according to Native Custom, a declaration of war, a throwing down the gauntlet, a manifestation of your intention to fight. Nothing could have pleased them better. They immediately came down in considerable numbers from the interior, and from that time to the present continual skirmishings have been carried on, accompanied with considerable loss of life on both sides, but nothing of importance has been accomplished.

The Stockade, still incomplete, has cost £1500, to the present time (September, 1847) – half as much more than the purchase money of the Land. Five hundred British soldiers, with a corresponding number of officers of all grades, are shut up there, and dare not venture fifty yards from its Walls even to cut firewood, with which they are supplied from Wellington a distance of 80 miles at a cost of about £15 per diem! for that article alone. H. M. S. Calliope, the Colonial Government Brig continually and H. M. Steamer Inflexible frequently are employed in keeping open the communication by sea, and conveying stores and provisions to the besieged. Some time in the month of June the natives came down plundered the Settlement, killed or drove away all the Sheep and cattle and set fire to all the houses, in the very face and under the guns of the Soldiers, who were unable to prevent it. The Settlers had fortunately been forewarned and they retired into the stockade, sending their families to Wellington.

I have, however, omitted to mention that shortly before this occurrence, a respectable Settler of the name of Gilfillan had been attacked at his own door, about 7 Miles from the Settlement, by five young natives, from which he succeeded

in escaping into the house. His unhappy wife, thinking from her knowledge of the general character of the Natives, that women and children were always secure from violence, persuaded him to escape through a back window and proceed to "Petre" for assistance. He did so, being himself severely wounded by a blow from a tomahawk, and on his return with the Police and some soldiers he found his poor wife and three of his children, one a girl of 14, murdered and most horribly mutilated. Two of the younger children escaped unobserved by creeping down into a swamp, where they passed the night.

The friendly natives were instantly on the alert, and a hot pursuit being made, the men were taken with the blankets and other of Gilfillan's property in their possession. Four of them were distinctly identified by Gilfillan and his surviving children, were tried by Martial law, condemned and hanged, acknowledging that they had committed the Murder. So atrocious and cold-blooded an act, one so opposed to everything we had hitherto known of the native character, excited universal alarm and horror. There had been no previous disagreement, no quarrel of any kind, no provocation given. It seemed a perfect mystery and is only to be explained as a declaration of war, provoked by the appearance of the Soldiers, which would be strictly in accordance with native Custom, or as an act of Revenge for the murder of Martin Luther at Wellington, which is well known to rankle in the native mind. However it be, no circumstance of equal horror has occurred since the foundation of the Colony, and it is truly astonishing that the settlers at "Wanganui" did not at once abandon their homes and betake themselves to Wellington. Fancying themselves secure, however, under the guns of the Stockade, they remained, untill their property was destroyed before their eyes, in the manner I before related.

Since that event the Natives have regularly entrenched

themselves within a short distance of the Stockade, from whence they adopt every possible means of annoyance to the Troops. Frequent skirmishings take place, without advantage to either party, but the Natives know their strength too well to incur the risk of encountering our troops in open ground where they would have a chance of using the bayonets. They beat us in skirmishing and bush fighting, and to that sort of warfare they take care to confine themselves. The latest accounts from Wanganui (August) brought a silly, pompous despatch from Col. McCleverty who commands the troops, from which if it were possible to make anything at all, it would appear that an engagement had taken place and that the Natives had the worst of it. The subsequent arrival, however, of the Inflexible Steamer put us in possession of the real facts of the case. Two of the natives contrived in a most artful and ingenious manner to induce the troops to leave the Stockade and succeeded in drawing them into an ambuscade formed by a strong party of natives, who attacked the Soldiers with so much vigour that they commenced a precipitate retreat towards the Stockade, and so strongly were they pressed by the Natives, that had not Captain Middleton and Mr. Palmer (of the 58th) with about 15 men turned and charged with the bayonet many lives must have been lost. This however gave a temporary check to the natives, which enabled our men to reach the Stockade – not however without a loss of 3 killed and 11 wounded. One body they were compelled to leave behind. The loss of the natives could not be ascertained. This is the sort of warfare which will be carried on – if it be continued at all – our people always getting the worst of it, to the disgrace of the British name, and the destruction of that prestige which used formerly to accompany it. It is the very thing to delight the natives. They go away into the interior during the period of their agricultural operations, plant their potatoes, and then come

back and resume operations against the soldiers. Meanwhile there is the bare fact to astonish people in England. 500 British Soldiers regularly shut up in a Stockade by about 300 Natives. To attempt to dislodge them from their position would be almost impossible, on account of the rugged and wooded nature of the country which renders the conveyance of artillery and Commissariat stores almost impracticable. It is well known that if, during the war in the North, the natives had not from a purely chivalrous feeling, abstained from attacking the drays employed in conveying food, they might have starved all the troops into any terms they thought proper to make. It is unlikely that they will again act with similar generosity – and if the difficulties of transport in the North were great, they are far greater in the South, the country being more broken and rugged. See then the advantage which the Native enjoys over the English Soldiers. The latter cannot and will not fight unless he gets his daily pound of bread, his pound of meat, and his Gill of Rum! – which must be conveyed to him wherever he may be at enormous cost. He is encumbered moreover when fighting with his thick clothing and heavy accoutrements; while the native with nothing but his musket in hand, and a cartouche box strapped round his waist, is active as a wild cat, and never wants for food, fern root and water which are to be had everywhere being sufficient for his subsistence. It is true that he will always have potatoes if possible, but still he can subsist for a length of time on the poorer food, if necessary. Another singular advantage he enjoys is his tawny skin and thick mat of black hair, which are scarcely discoverable among the fern and jungle, while the red jacket of the Soldier is a mark which it is scarcely possible to miss anywhere. Such are a few of the disadvantages under which our men labour in contending with the New Zealanders, and all who are at all acquainted with the country will allow

that the utmost which could be done by any Military force in New Zealand is to protect the Settlements. Any act of aggression upon the natives would be sure to encounter defeat. Fortunately they are strong enough to protect themselves and their country, and have therefore little to fear either from the machinations of the New Zealand Company or the utter want of faith of the British Government. It is to be hoped however that the present most unholy war will be immediately put an end to by the abandonment of the wretched settlement, which should have been done in the first instance. The place was never worth fighting for, and when we consider that to this hour the Land remains unpaid for, no false principle of honor should prevent our doing an act of justice.

A very similar question arises at "Taranake" or New Plymouth, another of the Company's Settlements, which if not carefully and judiciously managed will be the occasion of another war. The Land at that Settlement was purchased by the Company's Agent from some of the natives having a rightful claim to it; but it appears that, at the time, a number of the rightful owners who had been taken prisoners of war some years previously by a hostile tribe, and detained in captivity, were unable to advance their claims or assert their rights. By the influence of the missionaries, however, these prisoners were after a while released, and immediately proceeding to their native settlements, found the land occupied by Europeans. Various little acts of aggression followed, as a necessary consequence, and the matter was referred to the Commissioner who decided that the Claimants having been taken prisoners of war, and detained as slaves by a hostile Tribe, had forfeited all claim to their lands; and on these grounds he made an award in favor of the New Zealand Company. This most strange decision was very properly set aside by Captain FitzRoy, who on a review of the whole case resolved that

the natives' claim was just and must be satisfied. The Company resisted this award, and so the matter remains to this day (September 1847). Captain Grey, on his arrival, reconsiders the case, and forms a conclusion directly opposed to that of Captain FitzRoy. He tells the Natives that the award of the Commissioner was just, that they had no title to the Land, and that if they did not resign it quietly he would take it by force. This very injudicious threat, of course, had the effect of irritating the Natives, who declare that they will fight to the last for their Land; and should the threat be followed up (as has been talked of) by sending Troops to Taranake, there is no doubt that it will be followed by the destruction of that settlement, and by disasters and disgraces similar to those which have been incurred at Wanganui. 84

It is to be hoped however that warned by experience, Captain Grey will moderate that rashness which he exhibited on his first arrival in the Colony, and will not by so ill-advised a step incur the risk of involving the whole Island in war. At present he has his hands too full to think of it.

A few words before quitting the Southern part of the Island, on the present condition of Wellington. I do not however profess to give any information respecting this place as the result of personal observation, as it is some years since I visited the Settlement, but from authentic sources on which I can implicitly rely. As in all other parts of the Colony things are in a very stagnant state. Agriculture is making very little progress, but some of the principal settlers have formed large sheep establishments in the Valley of the "Wairarapa" about 40 or 50 miles from Wellington, which if the country continues tranquil, as it is at present in that neighbourhood, promises to turn out a profitable speculation. It is found that the fine wool'd

sheep do not succeed so well as was expected in New Zealand, and these settlers have substituted Leicesters and other large sheep which fatten very rapidly and produce Mutton unsurpassed in England even. With a view to open up the country in this direction, a Military Road is in progress up the valley of the Hutt. Another also is being formed towards "Porirua" about 12 miles from Wellington and is I believe nearly completed. Native Labour has been employed on these roads to a great extent; and under Military or other native superintendence it is said to have answered beyond expectation. I shall have occasion to shew by and bye, how completely the same experiment has failed in another quarter, from the want of that efficient superintendence. The formation of these two Roads, was a judicious act on the part of Captain Grey, as it afforded the settlement the only possible chance of developing whatever resources it may be possessed of. May those resources be speedily brought to light – and may the settlers enjoy at last the reward of all their toil, privation, misfortune and disappointment. It is to be hoped that the very silly feeling of jealousy and rivalry which has so long been kept up, on their part, towards Auckland, will now subside. They have a Lieut. Governor of their own, they enjoy an immense proportion of the Commissariat Expenditure, as well as of the Parliamentary Grant, and surely have therefore every reason to be satisfied. The Auckland people do not envy them these advantages, they raise no senseless outcry about favoritism to the Company's Settlements; on the contrary, they will rejoice in their prosperity, and are quite content to rest their own advancement on the advantages which they know their settlement to possess. It is to be hoped this foolish feeling will now be forgotten for ever.

Captain Grey having acquired in South Australia some credit in a small way as a financier, was of course compelled, on his arrival in New Zealand to do something to

sustain that reputation; more especially as the Treasury being empty, all source of Revenue cut off, and a vast amount of Government Paper money in circulation, it was absolutely necessary that something should be done. The great change of making the revenue not only equal, but even exceed the expenditure, was effected by a very simple process, which it did not require a Solon to discover – abolishing, namely, every office that could possibly be abolished (and some that have since been reconstituted under different names), cutting down the unhappy Government officers to starvation salaries, and doubling the Customs duties. And when it is remembered how large a Military and Naval force came down with or speedily followed Captain Grey, it is not to be wondered at that such a measure should have affected the Revenue. The mere additional duty on the spirits used by the Military made a most extraordinary difference immediately. And it is to be observed that the enormous Commissariat expenditure, and the large profits made in consequence by the Merchants and Shopkeepers alone reconciled them to a measure, which a few months previously they would not have tolerated for a moment. Even under existing circumstances it is productive of considerable discontent (the duty being 10 pr. Ct. ad valorem on all imported goods British and Foreign) and has given an extraordinary stimulus to smuggling, which is openly carried on in Auckland in the face of day, there being only two Customs House Officers to protect a shore of considerable extent, and affording a variety of facilities for landing without observation. I have no doubt that had the duties remained as formerly at 5 pr. Ct., the Revenue would have been nearly, if not quite as productive, on account of the smaller inducement to smuggle.

One of the next proceedings of Captain Grey was the organisation of a Native Police force. A similar measure adopted in South Australia is said to have been attended

with success, and therefore, of course, it became a pet project in New Zealand. A Force was formed partly-European and partly native, controlled by an "Inspector" and "Sub Inspector" and drilled and disciplined as Regular Troops. To give them their due, the progress they make in this part of their duty is wonderful. The facility with which they assume the habits of the regular Soldier, and the correctness with which they perform all their military manoeuvres, is really curious, and may teach us what dangerous enemies they would become should they, after acquiring our notions of discipline, turn their arms against us. So far the experiment appears to have been successful. But when it is demanded, of what use is this force? we are very much puzzled for answer. We only know that as far at least as Auckland is concerned, about forty men are employed to perform the duty, which used to be done by half a dozen Constables – and as far as we can see, equally well. And when the vast expense of this Force is considered, it becomes a serious consideration. The Inspector receives a Salary of £250 and £45 per Ann. forage allowance for a horse, the Sub Inspector £200, the Serjeants and Corporals 4/- and 5/-, and the Privates, Natives and Europeans, 3/6d. each per diem. This expense is for Auckland alone. At Wellington it is, I believe, much higher. Now almost the only duty these men perform for such enormous rates of pay, is to parade the streets of Auckland, chatter with their abandoned country-women of whom there are always numbers lying about the Streets, and occasionally apprehend a drunken man.

At Wellington however, Captain Grey says that their services are invaluable, and that he trusts entirely to them to keep open the land communication between that settlement and the disturbed districts. It seems rather singular that a line of military communication should be dependent entirely on Natives, but as I know nothing from personal observation

of this part of the subject I will say nothing about it.

The great and crying evil, however, attendant upon this measure, is the effect it has had in demoralising the natives. This effect has been produced to an extent which would scarcely be credited, were it not as notorious as the Sun at noonday. Not one of these men but has two or three native women living with him in a state of the grossest prostitution. They are all addicted to rum drinking, and, their pay is all engrossed by those and other the most disgusting debaucheries. For their daily supplies of food they get credit with the Shopkeepers who never refuse to trust them knowing that they are in the receipt of a certain Sum from the Government. And thus they run on untill perhaps the man is discharged for misconduct, he retires to the interior and the shopkeeper loses his money. Now the source of all this mischief is the enormously high rate of pay assigned to these men, and the keeping them congregated in the Settlements, where contamination, were it only from an intercourse with the worst of Europeans, is inevitable. It is true, they are supposed to inhabit a sort of Barrack, and to be under some control when there, but it is notorious that the Police Barrack is the most disorderly place in the Town and that no discipline whatever is observed among them. Indeed so infamous a notoriety has this Police Force acquired, that notwithstanding the temptation presented by so high a rate of pay, no well conducted native will enter it. Of this I have known many instances. Now it is not necessary to enlarge on the mischief that must result from the dispersion in the interior among their own Tribes, of men discharged from this Force. Their employment has given them an insight into the habits of the very worst class of Europeans, and they have engrafted the worst of our vices on the natural imperfections of their own character. The fondness for intoxicating liquors has, I grieve to say, increased most

extensively among the natives within the last 18 months, and there can be no doubt that this effect has been produced by the force of example among the lower class of Europeans with whom they are brought in contact, and by the high pay they receive, which must far exceed all the ideas which a Maori formerly entertained – in spite of his natural rapacity – of a fair reward for his labours. The whole thing is a crying evil, and all who really desire to promote the civilization of the Maori, and still more his moral and religious welfare, will use all possible means to induce the Government to break up and abandon this Native Police Force, which as far as the Natives themselves are concerned, is a measure of unmixed, unmitigated evil, as regards ourselves, is a matter of perfect moonshine. To suppose that they would be of any utility in case of disturbances with their own countrymen, is absurd, and if it be urged that they are useful in apprehending native offenders, I can only say, that during a tolerably extended experience, no difficulty was ever encountered in inducing Natives to apprehend evildoers among their own countrymen as well as among ours – provided the inducement of a moderate pecuniary reward were held out.

Another measure which has had a most injurious effect on the character and conduct of the natives, has been their employment on the Roads in the neighbourhood of Auckland. From the utter absence of all efficient superintendence, it has engendered habits of idleness and cunning, as injurious to themselves as they are to the people who pay them for doing nothing. The amount of labour they accomplish is absolutely insignificant; and so crafty have they become that a party at work on the road will keep one man on the look out (like crows plundering a cornfield) and if anyone is seen approaching they immediately commence working most vigorously – the moment the Traveller has passed they lie down and

recommence their favorite amusement of smoking and gossiping. These men receive 1/6 per diem. I am far from saying that these wages are too high, or that the system might not be rendered extremely beneficial if properly worked out. But see how it is managed in Auckland. A Superintendant is appointed, a military officer who receives 10/- per diem in addition to his military pay for this extra duty. A party of Natives is employed at a distance of about six Miles from the Town, which has been visited by this officer once in the course of six months! Under him are employed three or four young men of 18 and 22, their only recommendation being some knowledge of the language. They neither have nor can have any authority, and their utter ignorance (as well as that of the Superintendant) of the commonest principles of road-making, prevents them from giving the men any instruction for the judicious application of their labour; so that they work on – when they work at all – just as they please, and the roads instead of being formed are deformed – and the money expended is literally buried in the mud – as everyone who witnessed the then condition of the Roads during the past winter (1847) will admit. True, all this is not the fault of the system, but of the mode in which it is carried out. The effect nevertheless on the Natives is the same and that which under good management might be rendered equally beneficial to both races, becomes from neglect equally injurious to both. For be it borne in mind that about £100 per week are squandered in this manner in the neighbourhood of Auckland alone. The only mode, I conceive, of rendering native labour available on the Roads, is to enter into a contract for their formation at so much per mile, binding the Contractor to employ natives. It would then be his interest to look after them which no doubt he would do effectually."

82 This is not strictly correct, as on at least two previous occasions, 1827 and 1836, the missionaries were constrained to take precautions for their safety, and indeed to withdraw from the more isolated mission stations.

83 Note by Mathew, "Authority, Mr. Buddle."

84 Note by Mathew: "Informant, Mr. Forsyth."

CHAPTER XI. SURVEY WORK – END OF A CAREER

CHAPTER XL

SURVEY WORK – END OF A CAREER

[In a Colony at the pioneer stage, no part of the Government's duty is of greater importance than the rapid progress of the survey. Upon this depends the prompt settlement of farmers and labourers on agricultural lands, which is the beginning of productive colonisation. Lord Durham's Report on Canada, 1839, had emphasised this point, which indeed was sufficiently obvious to all intelligent observers at the time. Yet few colonies made such a bad start in this respect as New Zealand – notwithstanding that so much of its early colonisation was undertaken by the very people who were the staunchest advocates of the views of Durham and Wakefield. In the case of the New Zealand Company's original settlements, though an advance survey party was sent out in 1839, the main body of emigrants arrived before the surveyors were ready for them. Hasty land purchases from the natives, effected with little appreciation of the niceties of native tenure, produced in their train a hopeless confusion of disputed claims; while the action of the New South Wales and New Zealand Governments in seeking to regulate the purchase of

lands by withholding Crown grants till claims were proven before the Land Commissioners caused interminable delays. Alike at Wellington, Nelson, Wanganui and Taranaki, years passed before colonists could settle down on land to which they had a clear Government title. Meanwhile, the Colony lived on its capital.

In the Auckland district, things were little better. There was less confusion regarding Crown rights and native claims, for the validity of the original purchase of Auckland (September-October, 1840) was never questioned. The trouble arose from the inadequacy of the Survey Department. Mathew can hardly be blamed for this. For the first eighteen months or so of his tenure of office as Surveyor-General, his Department consisted of himself alone, unaided by even a clerk or a draughtsman. His first assistant-surveyor, J. Galloway, arrived from Sydney in March, 1840, but was so ill that he had to return almost immediately. Repeated and urgent appeals to the Lt. Governor for reinforcements for a long time produced no result. In December, 1840, Mathew could write that, despite the heavy burden of work thrown upon him by the founding of the capital, he still had no assistance; he was constantly diverted from important duties by the "drudgery of routine work"; and as assistants were readily procurable in Sydney, he begged "to decline any longer to discharge the functions of Surveyor-General, Assistant-Surveyor, Clerk and Draughtsman." He had to call upon his long-suffering wife to act as his copying clerk, and poor Mrs. Mathew laments the fact in a letter to her sister (July 1840): –

"I suppose you think I do nothing but write,

and it is very true, for what with acting as clerk, copying my husband's official letters and reports, and my very numerous correspondents both in the Colony and in England, I have little time to do anything else. It is fortunate I write so fast, so get through a good deal of copying. I wrote a copy of Felton's report on our recent exploratory voyage, comprised in 60 pages of foolscap. You may fancy that was no trifle. My hand ached a good deal during the latter part."

By May, 1841, Mathew's representations had been so far effective as to secure the appointment of three assistant-surveyors from Sydney, but their usefulness was much impaired by the fact that they arrived without instruments, stores, camp equipment, or men to assist them. For some months, they could not be employed in the field; and when, eventually, a supply of instruments arrived from Sydney, they were found to be old and useless. At the end of 1841, Mathew was still awaiting supplies direct from England.

Under the circumstances, Mathew deserved a good deal of credit for what he did achieve. In January, 1842, when his appointment as Surveyor-General was terminated, he could report the following work accomplished: –

In the Bay of Islands, the Town of Russell had been surveyed, and a considerable number of allotments marked out ready for sale.

At the Waitemata the capital had been laid out, and six Town sections sold.

In the vicinity of the capital, 38 cultivations and suburban allotments, of from three to five acres each, had been measured and sold, containing in all 136 acres.

At the mouth of the Tamaki, 37 farms had been surveyed, of between 70 and 130 acres each, totalling 3856 acres.

This was the whole of the land actually subdivided for sale, the greater part of the work of the Department having been of a preliminary character, namely general survey and preparation of an accurate outline of the country, as a step to subsequent subdivision.

The survey of the Tamaki River and its tributaries was completed; also, of the Manukau Harbour and its tributaries; and of the country intervening between them, which in view of its fertility and its easy communication both by land and water with the capital was obviously a suitable place for the extension of settlement, as soon as it could be bought from the natives.

The harbour of Mahurangi had been surveyed, and the land between that place and the Waitemata mapped. The country between this and the Kaipara was in process of being surveyed.

The survey of the coast east of the Tamaki, towards the Frith of Thames, was also in progress, and Mathew attached a great deal of importance to the speedy opening up of the Thames Valley, as perhaps the most valuable agricultural district in the North Island. 85

By this date, he had the services of six assistant-surveyors – Campbell, Symonds, du Moulin, Stuart, Brydon and Haile – two other surveyors, Halls and Hughes, employed by contract, and three clerks; but all these were recent appointments, and the bulk of the work actually completed had

been done by Mathew alone – or rather, by Mathew, gallantly aided by his wife, the best assistant he ever had in the field or in the office.

For two years, he had struggled against every possible disadvantage – impassable country, want of officers, deficiency of equipment, shortage of labourers, lack of instruments. Then, just when it seemed that the worst was over, and his Department was beginning to be reorganised on a scale that made extended survey work practicable, it was Mathew's tragic misfortune to be superseded by another officer appointed over his head by the Colonial Office. The manner in which this event came about needs a little explanation.

When, in 1839, the Colonial Office decided to assume responsibility for the affairs of New Zealand, it was not considered expedient to do more than appoint Hobson to be Consul and Lieutenant-Governor. Until the result of his mission was known, it was thought premature either to erect New Zealand into a separate colony, or to appoint any other officers to the permanent Government establishment. Hobson therefore was to act temporarily under the orders of the Governor of New South Wales, and, in consultation with his superior officer, was empowered to appoint a limited number of officers* from local residents, either in New South Wales or New Zealand, on the distinct understanding that their appointments were provisional. 86 James Stephen notes (Nov. 12, 1841) that "the holders [of these offices} were given to understand that they could expect to retain them only until permanent arrangements were

made." 87 If this is the case, perhaps it explains Mathew's attitude to "the scoundrel Government which has used us so vilely," as he refers to it in his first Journal-Letter. 88

Hobson, anticipating difficulty in finding suitable persons in the Colony, had been very unhappy about this arrangement, and had requested that at least his Colonial Secretary be appointed in England; but this request was refused. Arrived in Sydney, Hobson, in collaboration with Gipps, did the best he could to select his staff from among the local officers. Gipps, however, records in one despatch that he had extreme difficulty in finding anybody properly qualified to hold any of the places. Eventually, George Cooper, Willoughby Shortland, Felton Mathew and James Stuart Freeman were chosen to fill the chief offices of Acting-Treasurer, Colonial Secretary, Surveyor-General and Private Secretary respectively, and these gentlemen accompanied Hobson to New Zealand in the Herald. Other appointments were subsequently made, always on the same understanding as to their provisional character. It is not certain, however, that this condition was always made clear to the appointees. Mathew contended that he had been given to understand at the outset that his appointment would be permanent. In due course, Gipps reported these appointments to the Colonial Office (April 4, 1840), 89 and the Colonial Secretary approved them (August 1, 1840). Mathew and the others were thus confirmed in their view that their appointments were permanent. Hobson and

Gipps apparently took the same view of the case, which indeed was shared for a while by Lord John Russell and Mr. Vernon Smith at the Colonial Office.

In October and November, 1840, however, when New Zealand was being erected into a separate Colony, the whole New Zealand establishment was reviewed. At first, it was assumed that certain offices, including that of Surveyor-General, had already been filled on Gipps' nomination. But in a searching minute, worthy of his meticulous legalism, Stephen pointed out that Lord J. Russell's despatch of July 17, 1840, had expressly directed that all appointments in New Zealand should be regarded as provisional only; that Gipps had reported his nominations as provisional arrangements (April 4, 1840) and they had been confirmed only as such (August 1); and that it was important that at any rate the Treasurer and Surveyor-General should be appointed from England so that they might be instructed and prepared for their offices by the proper Departments at home before they sailed. After some demur, both Vernon Smith and Lord J. Russell concurred, the latter noting (Jan. 7, 1841): – "I believe Mr. Stephen is right in his view, which at first I did not so clearly perceive." 90

There is little doubt that, according to the strict letter of the despatches, Stephen's interpretation was correct. Mathew's appointment had been provisional, whether he understood it or not. With complete lack of consideration for Mathew himself and his services in New Zealand – to which Hobson generously testified – the Colonial Office

proceeded to appoint C. W. Ligar Surveyor-General in his stead (February, 1841). 91 No fault was attributed to Mathew, except, implicitly, that he had not had the advantage of the tuition of Captain Dawson of the English Survey Department, whose recent report on surveying in the colonies had met with official favour. Mathew had been merely a stop-gap, picked up in the colonies; he had served his purpose, provisionally; he could now be conveniently discarded – though, in response to Hobson's and Mathew's appeals, Lord Stanley did have the grace to express his willingness "to consider favourably any recommendations of the Governor for employing Mr. Mathew in the public service." 92

Pending his appeal to London, Mathew filled the posts of Postmaster General and Chief Police Magistrate; but during the acting-Governorship of Shortland, he was induced to relinquish these offices, and also to decline a formal offer of appointment as Deputy Surveyor-General, in order to relieve the Government of financial embarrassment. He left New Zealand for England in January, 1845, to make a personal appeal to Lord Stanley, and he was confirmed in his appointment of Postmaster and Police Magistrate. But upon returning to New Zealand, he was met by Governor Grey's refusal to implement the arrangements made by the Colonial Office. Bitterly disappointed and despondent, broken in health and spirits, he once more left Auckland for England, intending to travel via Callao and Panama, but the voyage proved too much for him. He died at Lima on November 26th, 1847.

THE END OF A CAREER

The story of these last years is told in the concluding portion of Mrs. Mathew's autobiography.]

MRS MATHEW'S AUTOBIOGRAPHY (concluded)

I must speak of the time when my husband having been superseded by Mr. Ligar, sent out by the then Secretary for the Colonies, Lord John Russell, was deliberating on the course he should pursue. The new Governor, Captain FitzRoy, had arrived, and had shown marked disregard and indifference to the older Officers of the Government. Mr. Shortland had resigned at once his appointment, and gone home. But after much reflection and deliberation, my husband resolved to wait patiently the result of the letters which he had sent to the Secretary of State and friends at home; so that year passed away, somewhat anxiously. It was towards the end of the year 1844 that an opportunity offered of going down to Wellington in the Brig Victoria, where we knew we should find a woolship loading for England, it was therefore decided that this was the best course for us to take....

I remember we found it so excessively cold though it was the beginning of June, and the first Sunday we spent in England, we went to the Cathedral of St. Paul's, and I tried to be very very thankful for having been brought back in safety to our native land, and the signal mercies we had received on the voyage – but I did not feel at all happy, and I longed to get out of London. The noise and bustle of the streets was so confusing and distracting.... But my husband's business at the Colonial Office kept us in town. We found the Shortlands, who had left New Zealand the year before, preparing to go to the West Indies, Mr. Shortland having been appointed Governor of Nevis.

We went with them to a place in King William Street, I think, and all had our pictures taken by the then newly invented process called "Dagueretype." They were thought very successful then, but appear quite unsatisfactory now that Photography has so greatly superseded the old process.

I cannot recollect much about, this time, which is worth recording, only generally that I was very anxious about my husband's health. He was greatly harassed too with Colonial business. He used to be sometimes kept at the House of Commons, nearly all night, at least till 2 or 3 o'clock in the morning during the Debates on affairs in New Zealand, in order to be ready to furnish information to the Secretary for the Colonies. I was glad when this was over, and we were able to think of leaving town. We were going first to Bath, and on our way thither we agreed to stay a day or two at Bampton with the relatives of our friend Mr. Whitaker, the lawyer in Auckland. Bampton was 9 miles from the Farringdon Road Station, and the carriage was to be sent to meet us there. I was so glad to leave London. I thought my husband would be so much better for the quiet and the rest we might now hope for; and he had promised that he would have medical advice when he had time to attend to his health. I remember how pleased and interested we were with the Railroad journey (now so common), but to us such a wonderful novelty: and at the Station at Paddington, we first saw the electric telegraph, and my husband examined it with the greatest interest. Certainly the country was looking very beautiful, and I think my dear husband did appreciate the beauty of England, and the rich landscapes which delighted our eyes....

During all this time my husband had been greatly harassed by correspondence with the Colonial Office, which was now ruled by Lord John Russell, whose nominee, Mr. Ligar, had been sent out to supersede my husband as

Surveyor General of the Colony. This grievous wrong fretted him very much, and I think was the chief cause of his loss of health. However, at the Colonial Office they kept up his hopes by fair words, and assurances of eventual restitution, and meantime he was supplying them with all the information they wanted respecting the new Colony. I think it was at this time that Lord John Russell 93 offered the appointment of Surveyor General at Sierra Leone, and I believe it was only his want of health which induced him to decline the post of danger. He was assured that his broken constitution would not stand the climate, and he still hoped to get some other appointment in New Zealand, to which country we had become much attached, and there we had left many friends whom we hoped to see again. Indeed I was very desirous to return to Auckland, our house had been left in charge of a friend, John du Moulin, also my beautiful horse, Lucifer, which was quite a pet; and principally I was anxious to get back, because I thought my husband's health would be benefited by the more genial climate; he had suffered so much from the cold in England.

During this spring the expected change of Ministry took place, and Lord Stanley became Secretary of State for the Colonies, 94 and very soon did all in his power to remedy the injustice my husband had suffered from his predecessor. Lord Stanley offered in the kindest manner the combined offices of Postmaster General and Chief Police Magistrate at Auckland, and though the emolument of both were not equal to that of the office of Surveyor General, yet the labor was less arduous, and in his present state of health, he considered he was hardly equal to the very severe exertions which his former post had required. He therefore immediately accepted and went to London to arrange for our return to New Zealand....

I think we were detained in Sydney, at least two or three weeks, waiting for a vessel to take us to New Zealand, so irregular and infrequent was the traffic between the two Colonies at that time. At length we embarked in a small Brig, I forget her name, and arrived in Auckland about the middle of March, after a very rough unpleasant voyage, in which we both suffered very much from the closeness of the Cabin and the want of proper food. My husband's health continued very precarious and he had the mortification to find that the new Governor, Sir George Grey, had already filled up the Appointments which had been offered to, and accepted by my husband, and refused to recognise the official letter of Lord Stanley; pretending that the circumstances of the Colony required the Police Magistrate to be a Military man, and that the Postmaster General was not required at all. At that time Colonial Governors were invested with almost irresponsible powers; and thus after 20 years of active service, my husband found himself thrown aside, his just claims disregarded, and himself ruined.

All this cruel mortification and anxiety had a most fatal effect in his impaired health, and after some struggles and remonstrances, he finally resolved to sell his property, and return to England. Of course this could not be effected immediately; the Colony was in such a state of depression that there were no purchasers. The war with the Natives, and the massacre at Wairau of the Nelson settlers and their Chief, Captain Arthur Wakefield, had of course stopped the tide of immigration, so that it was some months before matters could be arranged for our return. And then the prospect of the long voyage round Cape Horn in the winter was frightful to contemplate. The Doctors advised our taking advantage of a ship now in Port which was going to Calloo, the Port of Lima, where we might take the

monthly Steamer to Panama, cross the isthmus, and so return by the West India Mail Steamer to Southampton. This seemed the most prudent course we could adopt, and about this time arrived from Sydney Colonel Wynyard, to assume the Military command; it being now thought necessary to have a large force in the Colony, to impress the Natives with a sense of our power and our determination to retain our possession of such portions of the Territory as we had fairly purchased from the Chiefs. There was then no house for the residence of the Commander in Chief but ours, and as we declined taking a tenant, and wished to sell, he became the purchaser, as well as of a great part of our furniture; the rest, with our books and pictures, &c. were sold by auction – to my great regret ever since, though at that time I cared for nothing and only thought of how we might facilitate and expedite our return to England.

The route we had decided on by way of Panama and the West Indies, involved crossing the Isthmus. At that time, this was only to be done partly on horseback, partly by boat or canoe on the river Chagris; therefore it was absolutely necessary to have as little luggage as possible. Now and for some years past the isthmus is crossed in a few hours by railway train. It was not till September in that year 1847 that we left Auckland in the Thomas King for Calloo, amid the regrets and good wishes of many old md tried friends. Dr. Johnson assured me that my husband would soon recover when free from anxiety and rouble, and fairly away from the mortifications and annoyances which he had endured since our return.

At a Ball at Government House, shortly before our departure, the Governor Sir George Grey, expressed to me his regret that the circumstances of the Colony had obliged im to the course of action with regard to Lord Stanley's appointments, and expressed his regret that he (Felton) should have decided on leaving the Colony: at the same

time, he told me he hoped his health would be benefited by the voyage. I felt so indignant with his Excellency that I believe I was foolish enough to take all his civilities with extreme coolness, if not rudeness, and when he offered to take me to the refreshment room for some tea, declined taking anything. Of course he left me, looking rather surprised, and I was vexed with myself afterwards, for my behaviour was really highly improper. Lady Grey was at that time very popular, and certainly shewed us all the attention in her power.

The Thomas King was a dull sailer; there were no other passengers but the surgeon of the ship, Mr. Robinson, who had shortly before married Emily Cooper, the daughter of the Controller of Customs, whom I had known as a young girl when they first came from Sydney. We kept very much to our own Cabin, which was a good size stern cabin; and at first my husband seemed better and was able to employ himself writing, reading and drawing, but after some weeks we got into cold stormy latitudes, keeping much farther to the South than we had expected to do, and then my husband became sensibly weaker, and his cough more distressing. Mr. Robinson was not able to do much for him, and the wind was always contrary, so that we made little progress. Those weeks were the longest and the most miserable I ever passed through. We had been quite deceived as to the route and the time it would occupy. Three or four weeks sailing among the beautiful islands of the Pacific was what we had in our ignorance expected, instead of which, our course was far to the South, even lower than the latitude of Cape Horn, and we had nothing but cold gloomy days, with strong gales, sometimes snow. Such was the weather we experienced throughout the voyage till near the coast of South America, about the last week in October.

My poor husband was almost worn out. He used to

sit by the stove in the Cabin, in an easy chair, which we had fortunately brought with us, wrapped in a warm coat lined with fur, but he could not get warm. The last few days of the voyage, I recollect, he seemed to get better. The wind was fair, the temperature delightful, we were near the coast of Chili, and the occasional glimpses of the Andes, and the variety of the coast scenery, with the relief of getting near the end of this dreary voyage, was quite cheering; but it was the last day of the month ere we anchored in the Port of Calloo, towards evening, a beautiful rainbow throwing its arch of promise across the Bay, shortly after we came to anchor. My husband had been on deck nearly all day sketching, and enjoying the scenery, it was dark soon after sunset and he felt the cold very much. We were also very much annoyed by the sulphurous smell which arises from the water in the harbour; it is supposed to be caused by volcanic action under the water, as all this region, both land and water, is subject to earthquakes more or less severe.

We landed next morning after breakfast. It was All Saints Day, and we had to wait a long time at the Customhouse for the examination of our boxes, as everyone seemed to be keeping holiday. It was a large bare verandah'd room, where there was not even a chair to sit down upon, and we were anxious to get a conveyance to Lima, a distance of 7 miles, before the heat of the day became intense. Captain Robins had gone up to Lima early in the morning, and had promised to send a conveyance from the Hotel, where we intended to stop; and for this, we were to wait, at the Office for Omnibus and other public carriages. Accordingly we went thither, as soon as our boxes had been examined; and here we waited hour after hour, and still no carriage for us appeared. The heat was oppressive, and as everyone was smoking, the air was stifling to an invalid. There was only a bench round one side of this Office or

bureau, so my poor husband suffered much from bodily fatigue....

At last our carriage arrived, a neat little Brougham, with 3 horses abreast, and a negro driver; but the 7 miles drive seemed to me doubled. The road a mere bed of sand or rather dust, which almost suffocated us if we had the windows open, and if closed the heat was stifling. It was late in the afternoon, we had had no sustenance, and my poor husband was almost exhausted. There was nothing in the landscape to cheer, the whole country seemed dreary and barren, the mountains were hidden by clouds, and even the sun was obscured by a hot haze, not a green thing to be seen on either side, after passing the little village of Bella Vista, where the sight of a few plantations of Bananas seemed almost refreshing tho' their beautiful long foliage was drooping in the heat and covered with dust....

We had been recommended to the Hotel Francais, and here we at length arrived, and were glad to get something to eat, and go to bed. Our room was peculiar, large and lofty, lighted from a skylight in the roof, and a glass door which opened on a gallery overlooking the Patio or courtyard. We did not like it at all, but it was the only room vacant, and as we intended to leave in a very short time, we thought it did not much signify; but alas we had to stay here many days, and this dismal apartment was the last scene on which my husband's eyes rested. The Steamer to Panama was to leave Calloo in two days, but as there would be another in a month's time we decided on remaining till the next, hoping that my husband's health would be recruited by the rest, and the warm climate, which he seemed to enjoy. So the November Mail left without us, and very soon after he became so much worse, that we were obliged to enquire for medical aid. The Consul Mr. Barton, to whom we had introductions came immediately, and introduced Dr. Smith,

as the only English practitioner. He said very little, and did less. He ordered asses' milk, and all the nourishment we could get; and some of the kind people used to send Jelly, and Beef tea and fruit. But the decree had gone forth. He was doomed to die in a foreign land, and I to survive him. I cannot write of this dreadful time, I did not then realise his danger. For the first week or two, we had walked out a little; and once we rode out on horseback; but he was not aware of his weakness, and very nearly fainted in dismounting; but he still clung to the hope of getting back to England by the next Steamer, and asked the Consul about the means of procuring a litter and bearers to carry him across the Isthmus, as he found it was impossible for him to ride on horseback. But all these hopes and arrangements were useless, as he gradually sank, and departed on the 26th November.

[Page 262 is blank]

85 Mathew's Letter-Book, Despatch to Hobson, Jan., 1841.

86 Draft Instructions, CO. 209/4.

87 C. O. 209/8.

88 Supra, p. 22.

89 CO. 209/6.

90 CO. 209/8.

91 C. O. 381/57

92 May 11, 1842: CO. 209/10.

93 Mrs. Mathew is in error. The Colonial Secretaries were Lord Stanley 1841-5, Mr. Gladstone 1845-6, and then Earl Grey.

94 Mrs. Mathew is in error. The Colonial Secretaries were Lord Stanley 1841-5, Mr. Gladstone 1845-6, and then Earl Grey.

INDEX.

INDEX.

A.

Akaroa, 203-4.
American Antarctic Expedition, 76, 79, 94, 100, 105. Auckland, 15, 16, 60, 116, 173-186, 189-212, 227-8, 231, 239-246, 247, 253-257.

B.
Baker, Charles, 102, 103, 110.
Barton, 260, 261.
Bateman, Capt. Thomas, 61, 185, 188.
Bay of Islands, 15, 23 seqq., 44 seqq., 58-62, 69, 70 seqq., 85, 91 seqq., 112-119, 138, 148, 155, 157, 158, 170, 177-8, 184, 210, 214-5, 225-6, 247-8.
Beck, Peter, 185.
Bellini, M., 203.
Bendall, Miss, 209.
Brown, William, 133, 190.
Brown's Island, see Motukorehu.
Brydon, Mr., 248.
Buddle, Rev. Thos., 227.
Bumby, Agnes, 50.
Bunbury, Major Thos., 110.
Burns, John, 185.
Burrows, Rev. & Mrs. Robt, 82-3, 85, 87, 88. 90, 97.
Busby, James, 23-6, 28, 31-33, 35-6, 39, 42, 72-4, 92, 113.

C.
Callao, 252, 256-260.
Campbell, 248
Campbell, John Logan, 133, 190.
Canterbury Province, 204.
Capital, choice of, 15, 57-8, 112-19, 157-186, 189, 246-8.
Carlos, Michael, 185.
Carney, see Kearney.
Chaplain, 185, 188.
Churton, Rev. J. F., 203, 209.
Clarke, George, 45, 55, 175.
Clarke, George (junior), 230-1.
Clayton, Capt. G. T., 99.
Clendon, Capt. & Mrs. J. R., 37, 59, 76, 79, 93-5, 100-2, 106-7, 110, 113-118, 119.
Cloudy Bay, 102.
Coates, J., 209.
Collins, David, 185.
Condon, Richard, 185.
Cook Strait, 59. 67, 102, 203, 227, 229.
Cooper, George, 14, 19, 22, 39, 44, 51, 55, 58, 61-63, 66, 67, 70, 71, 73, 74. 76, 77, 78. 179, 250.
Cooper, Emily, 258. Coromandel, 71, 133, 142-149, 207.
Cotton, Rev. W., 210.
Customs duties, 216-9, 240.

D.
Dalombie, Manuel, 185.
Davies, Dr. W., 88.
Davis, Richard, 46.
Dawson, Capt., 252.
Dew, John, 185.
Dill, 186.
Dunlop, Capt., 203.

E.
East Cape, 205.
Emigrants, 85-7, 95-6, 102-3, 112, 180, 184; 222-3.
England, Capt., 206, 211.

F.
Fairburn, William T., 63, 139-41, 152-4, 178, 210.
Finances, (New Zealand), 216-219, 239-240.
Fitzgerald, 210.
FitzRoy, Capt. William., 214, 216, 223-5, 231, 237-8, 253.
Ford, Dr. & Mrs. S. H., 83, 98.
Forsyth, 238.
Freeman, James Stuart & Mrs., 19, 33, 58, 66, 69, 70, 75, 77, 79, 81, 82-101, 102, 104, 107, 110, 250.
Freeman's Bay, 175.

G.
Galloway, J. J., 86, 88-90, 98, 103, 110, 182, 246.
Gamble, James, 185.
Gardiner, 179.
Gilfillan, 233-4.
Gipps, Sir George, 14, 15, 21, 28, 72, 76, 117, 250, 251.
Grey, Sir George, 15, 17, 225, 227-8, 232, 238-41, 252, 256-8.
Griffiths, Miss, 209-10.
Grimstone, S. E., 19, 83, 98, 106, 107.

H.
Haile, 248.
Halls, 182, 248.
Hamilton, Francis, 185.
Hancock, Private, 19.
Hargraves, Miss, 209.
Harkin, William, 185.
Harris, Alexander, 185.
Hayes, William C., 83, 98.
Hill, Charles, 185.
Hobson, Captain William, 14-16, 19-74, 76, 78, 93, 97, 102, 110, 112, 115, 116, 119, 120, 132, 156, 157 seqq., 172-6, 177-83, 187, 192, 195, 198-200, 202-5, 209-11, 216, 221, 246, 248-51.
Hobson, Mrs. W., 30, 32, 102, 110, 209, 211.
Hokianga, 27, 29, 31, 41, 44-55, 58, 221.
Hone Heke, 40, 215, 225, 227.
Hongi Hika, 148.
Horeke, 50, 51, 53.
Horo, 191.
Hughes, 248.
Hutt Valley, 214, 227, 239.

I.
Immigration, 222-3, 256. See also Emigrants.
Imy, Mrs., 106.
Iselton, Mrs. 46.

J.
Johnson, Dr. John, 83-90, 93-4 97, 99, 110, 156, 174-8, 183-5, 188-9, 191, 194, 208, 257.

K.
Kaipara, 57, 132, 159, 248.
Kapiti, 102.
Kauri, 46, 109, 126, 159.
Kawa-kawa, 29, 75-6, 109, 110, 113, 226.
Kawiti, 226, 227.
Kearney, Thomas, 185.
Kendall, William, 85, 185.
Keri-keri, 44-5.
Kororareka, 24, 26, 28-30, 56 71, 77 seqq., 92-3, 96, 100-116, 187, 215, 225.
Kurukanga, 229, 230.

L.
Land Commissioners, 21, 28, 115, 230, 237, 238, 246.
Lane, Dr. Alexander, 70.
Lewis, Corporal, 19.
Ligar, Charles W., 252. 253. 255.
Lima, 252, 256, 259-61.

Luther, Martin, 228-9, 234.

M.
Mahurangi, 119, 126-30, 157-60, 171-2, 248.
Mangungu, 47, 50, 53.
Manukau, 57, 67, 138-9, 158, 161, 166-8, 177, 191, 195, 206, 248.
Maoris, 26, 31, 33-41, 47-8, 51-3, 54-6, 65, 96-7, 100-108, 121, 128, 132, 140, 142, 145-6, 148, 150, 151, 153, 192, 201-2, 204, 206, 211, 213-244, 256.
– -, speeches, 35-40, 108,
192.
– – , war dances, 51-2, 104,
107.
Maraetai, 63, 139, 178.
Martin, Dr. S., 147, 196.
Mason, Rev. J., 100.
Mason, William, 100, 183, 185, 188, 189, 196.
Maungarei, (Mt. Wellington), 165, 167.
Maungawau (Mt. Eden), 176, 191.
McCleverty, Col., 235.
McDonnell, Lt. Thos., 50, 51.
McGee, James, 186.
McLean, 19.
McNaughton, Donald, 186.
McQuoid, John, 186.
McRichie, James, 186.
Middleton, Capt, 235.
Mills, Samuel, 186.
Missionaries, 25-31, 42, 46-7, 50, 53-6, 63-6, 70, 101, 109, 144, 202, 205, 209, 215, 212-20.
Moka, 26, 28, 107, 108.
Mokoia, 136, 165, 167, 168, 172.
Moliny, 211-2.
Mollison, Capt., 82, 85-6, 89, 91-2, 96, 110-1.
Monk, 19.
Moore, Private, 19.
Motion, William, 186.
Motukorehu, (Brown's Island), 136, 139, 141, 164, 190, 208.
Motutapu, 61.
du Moulin, John, 206, 248, 255.

N.
Native Police Force, 240-3.
Nelson, 211, 222, 246, 256.
Nene, Tamati Waka. 37, 228.
New Plymouth, 214, 237-8, 246.
New Zealand Company, 58, 189, 203-205, 222, 227-232, 237-9, 245-6.
Nias, Capt. Joseph, 16, 19, 20, 24, 27-33, 44, 55, 61, 66, 68, 70, 72, 74, 77, 78.

O.
Ohaiwai, 225.
Okaihau, 225.
Okiato, see Russell.
O'Neill, Charles, 186.
Orakei, 59-60.
Otahuhu, 166.

P.
Paihia, 23, 27, 29, 44, 45, 55, 74, 75, 92, 94, 97, 99, 100, 102, 105, 110, 116, 117, 156.
Palmer, 235.
Patuone, 41.
Perry, 102.
Petre, see Wanganui.
Piako River, 144, 166-7.
Pomare, 76, 103, 105-7, 109.
Pompallier, Bishop J. F. B., 27, 28, 36, 37, 42.
Porirua, 204, 227, 239.
Port Nicholson, 21, 58, 59, 102, 143, 150, 152, 189, 193, 203, 229.

R.
Rangihaeata, 227, 228.
Rangitoto, 61, 137-9, 141, 206-8.
Rauparaha, 227, 228.

Rayner, Henry, 186.
Raynor, Henry, 186.
Rewiti, 191.
Richards, Robert, 152, 200.
Robertson, Helen, 201, 203.
Robertson, John, 186.
Robinson, 186, 204, 258.
Rotorua, 67.
Rough, Capt. David, 174-9, 183, 185, 188, 191-4, 206, 209, 212.
Ruapekapeka, 226.
Russell, Lord John, 15, 251, 253, 254, 255.
Russell, 15, 106, 110-9, 155-6, 195, 247.

S.
St. Hill, 204.
St. John's College, 210.
St. Paul's Church, Auckland, 202, 210.
Selwyn, Bishop G. A., 210, 212.
Sentinel Rock, 164, 172, 174, 175, 189.
Sharkey, Patrick, 186.
Ships, – Anna Watson, 17, 178, 182, 184, 187-94, 196. Argyle, 19. Ariel, 102. L'Artemise, 24. Bateman's schooner, 61, 62. Bengal Merchant, 143. H. M. brig Britomart, 195. H. M. S. Buffalo, 102, 110. H. M. S. Calliope, 227, 233. Columbine, 98, 164. Dolphin, 139. H. M. S. Druid, 20. Favorite, 195. Flying Fish, 76, 79, 94. H. M. S. Herald, 16, 19 seqq., 55, 58 seqq., 92, 173, 211, 250. H. M. S. Inflexible, 233, 235. Lady Leith, 152. Martha, 55. Morley, 13. Platina, 289. Ranger, 17, 41, 77, 110, 119-56, 174, 177, 178, 190, 195. Samuel Winter, 30, 32, 42, 44. Thomas King, 257, 258. Victoria, 72, 92, 200, 203, 204, 253. Vincennes, 100, 105. Westminster, 77, 79, 81, 83-112.
Short, Miss, 209.
Shortland, Lt. Willoughby, 19, 20, 30, 39, 44, 54-6, 60, 69, 72, 76-7, 79, 93-4, 95, 98, 102-5, 107, 110, 210, 216, 250, 252-4.
Sinclair, Dudley, 150.
Smart, Lt. H. D., 85-6, 90, 98.
Smith, George, 183.
Smith, Isaac, 186.
Smith, Vernon, 251.
Spain, William, 230.
Stanley, Lord, 118, 252, 255-7.
Stephen, Sir James, 199, 249-51.
Stewart, Capt. Thos, 184, 188,
190, 192. Stuart, 248.
Swainson, William, 205.
Swanson, John, 186.
Symonds, Capt. W. C, 17, 56-7, 61-2, 67-8, 70-1, 174, 182-192, 248.

T.
Talbot, 185, 188.
Tamaki, 15, 119-20, 136-41, 158, 164-172, 177-8, 248.
Taranaki, 214, 237-8, 246.
Tattooing, 150.
Taylor, Rev. R, 46-7, 55, 76, 232.
Te Kauwau, 191.
Te Whero Whero, 228.
Terry, Charles, 194.

Thames, 31, 41, 55-7, 60, 63, 101, 106, 108, 119, 133, 143-4, 147-54, 166-7, 170, 177-8, 181-3, 207, 221, 248.
de Thierry, Baron C, 53.
Thompson, H. A., 211.
Three Kings Islands, 21, 22, 90.
Tinana, 191.
Treaty, see Waitangi.
Tucker, Henry, 179.

W.
Waiatarua, 165. Waiau, see Coromandel.
Waiheke, 63, 142-3, 152, 168, 178, 207.
Waikare, 100-3.
Waikato, 57-8, 67, 166, 181.
Waimate, 29, 30, 41, 46, 47,54, 55, 73, 76, 93, 98, 99, 102, 110, 210.
Waipa, 67.
Wairarapa, 238.
Wairau massacre, 206, 211, 256.
Waitakerei, 161, 162, 176.
Waitangi, 19 seqq., 46, 50-1, 100, 104, 113.
Waitangi, Treaty of, 19 seqq., 45, 46, 53, 57, 58, 70, 102, 132, 173, 178, 221, 222.
Waitemata, 15, 57 seqq., 119, 120, 129-36, 142, 157, 158-79, 182-4, 189-199, 221, 247.
Wakefield, Capt. Arthur, 211, 212, 256.
Wakefield, E. J., 229.
Wakefield, Col. William, 189, 204 229-31.
Wanganui, 102, 214, 229-37, 246.
Ward, Sergt, 19. Webbe, 19.
Webster, William, 133, 146, 148-50.
Wellington, 59, 203-4, 227-34, 238-9, 241, 246, 253.
Whangarei, 119-125, 128, 155, 157.
Whitaker, Sir F, 209, 210, 254.
White (or Sulphur) Island, 205.
Wilkes, Commander C, 100, 104.
Williams, Edward M., 183, 185.
Williams, Rev. H, 25, 29, 33. 40, 45, 56, 57-8, 70, 71, 74, 75, 80-1, 101-2, 173-4.
Williams, Mrs. H., 99, 105.
Wilson, Rev. John A., 105.
Wood's Hotel, Auckland, 209.
Wright, Thomas, 186.
Wright, 109.
Wynyard, Col. R. H., 257.

Y.
Young, 209.

Conditions of Use

By their use of these ebooks, texts and images, users agree to follow these conditions of use:

These ebooks, texts and images may not be used for any commercial purpose without permission from the University of Auckland Library.

These ebooks, texts and images may not be re-published in print or electronic form without permission from the University of Auckland Library. However, educators are welcome to print out items and hand them to their students.

Users are not permitted to download our ebooks, texts, and images in order to mount them on their own servers for public use or for use by a set of subscribers. Individuals and institutions can, of course, make a link to the copies at ENZB, subject to our conditions of use. It is not in our interest or that of our users to have uncontrolled subsets of our holdings available elsewhere on the Internet. We make corrections, add tags, add images, etc. on a continual basis, and we want the most current text to be the only one generally available to all Internet users.

These texts can potentially be used as the basis for additional TEI tagging or for some other etext or ebook project, but we ask that you let us know before you start, so that we can coordinate work on that text and make sure that we are not working on it simultaneously. We would like a copy of the improved text for our collections.

Request for permission form