[Image of page v]
THE following little work is from the pen of one who resided for twelve years in the Canterbury Settlement, where she was enabled to found for herself a happy and prosperous home, and subsequently visited the other principal provinces of New Zealand, and the great towns of Australia, returning to the old country by the overland route.
Having been in the habit of noting down in her journal all that struck her as interesting or peculiar in the course of her travels, and finding, on her return to England, how imperfect was the knowledge possessed by the general public of the bright and sunny lands so far away, she has been induced to publish extracts from those notes, which, as a discerning eye may perceive, were originally intended only for the amusement of private friends.
The unadorned simplicity of the style, however, may serve to convince the general reader that plain truths alone compose the substance; and she trusts that the information she has been able to collect may
[Image of page vi]
prove useful to those who contemplate a visit to the Antipodes, interesting to those who stay at home, and may, perhaps, tend to open the eyes of all to the many advantages and blessings to be reaped by those who, with strong hearts and willing minds, seek distant shores, to create for themselves, under God's favour, new homes, new fortunes, and new health.
A few words respecting the poetry included in the Appendix to this volume may perhaps be necessary. They would not have been added, had not each one severally borne special reference to the land in which they were written, or to the voyage thither.
The "New Zealand Christian Year," for which some of them were written, was never published, as the clergyman who was compiling that work left the country, unexpectedly, before it was completed. One of its characteristics was intended to be, that each set of verses contained in it should bear some allusion to our adopted country.
[Image of page vii]
It was early in December, 1852, that I embarked on board the good ship "Hampshire" at Gravesend, bound direct for the Canterbury Settlement. For six weeks we were wind-bound off the coast of England, and not till May, 1853, did we reach our destination. The course was not so well known, perhaps, in those days as it now is, for ships at the present time seldom take more than from ninety to a hundred days for this voyage, while the route by Suez occupies about two months only, and that by Panama but forty-nine days; passengers by the latter can take return tickets.
A passenger ship is a little world in itself, cut off for the time from all around it, and a long voyage has its own peculiar charms for those who are able to appreciate and enjoy them: it tends to produce exalted and holy thoughts and solemn feelings, bringing us, as it were, nearer to God, and at the same time opening the heart to kindly feelings towards those who are sharing with us "the perils of the sea." But there are, alas! two sides to the picture, and it cannot be denied that there are also temptations which beset the inmates of these little floating worlds, and that sin finds its way in there as readily as elsewhere.
For myself I can say, that I enjoy the sea most thoroughly. In the placid beauty of calm weather, and
[Image of page viii]
the awful grandeur of the storm--in the boundless roll of the ocean, and the glorious expanse of the heavens -- I feel an intense worshipful admiration, and a peaceful enjoyment far more perfect than usually falls to the lot of any on the busy land.
Then, again, friendships are formed at sea which often endure faithfully and fervently throughout after life. When landed together at last, far from our old homes, how inestimably valuable do such friendships become; how each holds out to each the helping hand, ever willing mutually to smooth the rugged path of life; the sympathizing spirit, the kindly look, the cheering voice, ever ready, ever nigh. Oh! it is in those young, distant homes that hearts are proved, all that is kindliest in our natures developed, and friendships ripened into affections that only death dissolves.
Our voyage though long was a pleasant one, and diversified by many amusements, among which was the getting up of a weekly paper, edited by two of the gentlemen, and contributed to by many of the passengers. Also a fancy-dress ball, at which the costumes and decorations were both tasteful and elaborate.
There are few persons who, if they are in health, are not light-hearted at sea; you seem to leave your cares behind you with the land, and the fresh breezes blow away sad thoughts.
Invigorated and refreshed, we reached our adopted home, prepared to cope with and struggle through all the roughnesses and trials of young colonial life; and though some of our party proved to be ill adapted to the undertaking, and returned shortly to their English homes, I believe those who remained have never had cause to repent of their participation in the project, or of the perseverance with which they fought against and overcame first difficulties.
[Image of page ix]
TWELVE YEARS IN CANTERBURY.
Deficiency of knowledge in England respecting New Zealand --True state of things there--Mistaken notions respecting the country and society--The war, and exemption of the Middle and South Islands from it--Canterbury settlement: its formation; intentions of its originators, and first settlers--The first ships: their arrival--Landing of the Canterbury Pilgrims: their reception--The first Sunday--Extemporised church--Christmas day--Bishop Selwyn--The Bishop-designate: his brief stay--Religious toleration and good fellowship--Unity of purpose between the Church and Dissenters--Character of the first settlers--Unaccustomed work--Erroneous ideas among emigrants--Temporary discontents--Injudicious friends at home--"Eden of the Southern Sea": its character and climate--Atmosphere--Weather--Latitude--Natural productions and rivers--Bridle-path--Roads--Railroad and tunnel--Rapid progress--The first carriage--Means of conveyance--Present contrast--First impressions and present appearance--Cathedral: laying of the first stone --Difficulties and obstacles to its completion--Churches --Parishes--Dissenters' and Wesleyan Chapels--Scotch Churches, etc. --Cemeteries--College--Number of clergymen and churches--Orphan asylum--Benevolent Aid Society -- Female Home--Refuge--Lunatic asylum-- Hospitals, etc., etc. -- St. Michael's--Institute Concerts, etc. --Country towns--Gold fields--Hokitika road--Water
[Image of page x]
--Artesian springs--Soil, fruits, flowers, trees, birds, woods, flax, ferns, etc. --Crops--Wool--Wages--Cost of living--Price of grain--Price of land--Population-- West Coast--Natives--Methodist Maories--Road to West Coast -- Sheep -- Cattle -- Telegraphs -- Coal--Banks-- Newspapers--Societies and Associations--Trades and Callings--Volunteers--Town of Christchurch--The Avon --Statue to Mr. Godley--Lyttelton and Christchurch railway and tunnel -- Southern railway--Commercial depression..........1-23
FROM CHRISTCHURCH TO DUNEDIN, OTAGO.
Departure from Christchurch--The road--Summer--The zig-zag--Adventurous feat--Arrival in Lyttelton--Hospitable friends--Extortion of boatmen--Steamer's accommodation--The screw--Voyage--Whale's food--Scenery --Traditional fires--Missionary station--Port Chalmers-- A New Zealand day--Church and chapel--Beautiful scenery--Dunedin--Boarding-house -- Great Exhibition-- A friend--The town--The "River"--A wreck--Shops-- St. Paul's Church--Bishop of Dunedin--Dissenters-- Fires--Scarcity of water--Second visit to the Exhibition --Indifference of the Otago people to it--Site of the Exhibition building--Bankruptcies--Fast young ladies-- Sunday--Rain--Departure--Visit to Port Chalmers-- Voyage back to Lyttelton, and return to Christchurch.............24-40
FROM CHRISTCHURCH TO WELLINGTON. THE HUTT VALLEY. LOSS OF THE "CITY OF DUNEDIN" STEAMER. PICTON. NELSON. WRECK OF THE "LORD WORSLEY" STEAMER.
Last farewell to Christchurch--Walk over the bridle-path to Lyttelton--Boating excursion--Visit to the tunnel-- Parting with friends--Voyage to Wellington--The wharf and town--The Hutt Valley--Beautiful drive--Curious exhibition of Maori women--Late return on board-- Voyage to Picton--The bays--Loss of the steamer "City of Dunedin"--Visit to friends--The Waiarau plains-- Voyage to Nelson--Fellow passengers--Arrival--Beauty
[Image of page xi]
of the harbour--Climate and town of Nelson--Perilous re-embarkation--Second visit to the town--Beautiful situation of the Cathedral--Lovely scenery--Bishop of Nelson--Buildings-- Gardens--Vineyards--Dun Mountain copper-mines--Voyage to Taranaki--"Sugar-Loaves" --Wreck of the "Lord Worsley" steamer............41-57
TARANAKI. WRECK OF THE "ORPHEUS" MAN-OF-WAR. MANUKAU. AUCKLAND.
New Plymouth roadstead--Rough landing--Taranaki--Iron-sand--Mount Egmont--The country--Petroleum--Maori tradition--Off Manukau--Wreck of the "Orpheus"-- Manukau harbour--Disagreeable landing--Onehunga-- Arrival in Auckland--Inquiries--Rigid directions--Unpleasant walk--Boarding-house accommodation--Rough reception --Company--A colonial servant--Roughing it --Mosquitoes--A friend announced--Remarks on the voyage--Town of Auckland--St. Paul's Church--Church people--Weather--Damp room--Post-office--Change for the better--Walk in the town--Shops--Buildings-- Streets--Impossibility of making excursions--Enervating effects of the climate...............58-76
CHAPTER V. Auckland--(Continued).
Dullness--Anticipated change--Search for new lodgings-- Rats--Town walk--Footpaths and roads--Scoria-- General Cameron: his residence--Churches and chapels --Buildings and institutions--The Domain--Distant views --Barracks--Second Sunday--A colonial servant--The harbour and bays--Another boarding-house--Dilapidations--Rain and rats--Outskirts of the town--Parnell-- Want of hotels and boarding-houses--Change of room-- Boarding-house beds--Improved attendance--Primitive contrivances--Sudden changes of weather--Third Sunday --Absence of military bands--Unlighted streets--Arrival of the Sydney steamer--The wharf--Muddy expedition-- Backward state of the place--Population--Good effects
[Image of page xii]
of the war--The soil--The Queen's birthday--Rainbows-- Cemeteries--Ascent of Mount Eden--Extensive prospect --Maori rifle-pits--Curious shell deposit--Form of the mount--My last Sunday--St. Matthew's Church--Agreeable surprise--Bishop Pattison--A dark walk--Visit to the Domain--Long country walk--Maori encampment-- Parnell--Churches--Bishop Selwyn's library--William Thompson, the Maori chief--Kawau Island--The Maories --More bad weather--Wynyard pier-- Projected breakwater--Farewell to Auckland..................77-106
VOYAGE. SYDNEY. VOYAGE TO HOBSON'S BAY.
Auckland from the sea--Kawau Island--Curious rocks--A knot--Alarm in the night--The "Rangitoto"--Sea rainbows--Rough weather--A gale--Betting--Sweepstakes --Sydney harbour--Boarding-house--The town--Agreeable society--Bank difficulties--News of the loss of the "City of Dunedin" steamer--Pianoforte playing--Rain, and resolution to disregard it--The market--Streets-- Cathedral--Bishop of Sydney--Sermon--Church Hill-- Churches and chapels--St. Phillip's--The bank and its clerks--More of the town--Noisy pianiste--Independent young ladies--Business--Visit to the Domain and Botanical Gardens--Tramway--Railway excursion to Paramatta--Encounter with an old woman--The gardens-- The museum--Inconvenient rules and wrong notice-- Forty hours' service--Roman Catholic cathedral and obelisk--Names of places--Baths--Farewell view of the gardens--On board the "City of Adelaide"--Seal Islands....................107-130
Hobson's Bay--The wharf--Railway to Melbourne--Search for a resting-place--Drive to Botanical and Zoological Gardens--The town--Public buildings--Streets--Public conveyances--Drive to the Royal Park--Acclimatization Society--Cemetery--Beautiful monuments--University --Museum--Gorillas--Library, picture, and sculpture galleries--Churches and chapels--High postage--Tem-
[Image of page xiii]
perance hotel--Total abstainers--Rapid progress of Melbourne--Re-embarkation--The bay--The stewardess-- Kangaroo Island--St. Vincent's Gulf--Pretty effect on entering the river--The wharf and port--Colonial energy --Railroad to Adelaide--Comfortable hotel--Sunday-- Churches and chapels--St. Paul's: its unfinished and untidy state--Pretty town--Handsome public buildings --Trinity Church--Bishop of Adelaide--Country drive-- Paradise --Beautiful country--Vineyards--Wines--Botanical Gardens--Pleasant impressions of the place-- Country between the city and port--Off again--Severe gale--The baby--The unhappy stewardess--Rough weather catastrophes--Recognition--Glorious sunset--Distant land...............131-152
KING GEORGE'S SOUND. GALLE (CEYLON). ADEN.
The harbour--Curiously placed rocks--Sunday--The "Northam"--Coaling-- The shore-- Shrubs --Convicts--Natives--Albany--On board--Departure--The "Leuwin" --Thoughts--The crew--Liberal fare--Contrary winds-- Rough weather -- Misfortunes --Entertainment--Waterspouts--Wonderful sunset, and storm--Sunday services --Farewell to the Southern Cross--Galle--Canoes-- The town--Tiffin--Drive to Warkwalla--Buddhist temple and mausoleum--Natives-- Tame birds--Wares--Costumes--Indian steamer--Mosquitoes--Sleeping on deck-- Divine service--Death and funeral--Exercises--Chinamen and Lascars--Stewards--Phosphoric lights--Fever --Gale--More misfortunes--South-west monsoon--Sufferings-- Socotra--Landing at Aden--The great tanks-- Bazaars--Hotel-- Camels--Donkeys--Natives--My companion--Leopard skins, etc. --Swimmers and divers-- Aden from the sea..................153-176
THE RED SEA. SUEZ. THE DESERT. ALEXANDRIA. MALTA.
Straits of Bab-el-Mandeb--Arab Pilot--Rocky Islands--Babies --Rain in the Red Sea--Birds--Land--Fevers, etc. -- Sunsets--Moonsets--Harbour of Suez--Landing--Invalids--A sunstroke--Hotel--Provisions--Goats and Don-
[Image of page xiv]
keys--Railway-- The Desert -- Disappointment-- Cairo station--Charges--Telegraph--Alexandria station--Detention owing to an accident--Embarkation--Cholera-- Re-landing--Adventure with boatmen--Drive through Alexandria to the telegraph office--The women--Dragoman -- Attempted extortion --Adventures -- On board again--Stray packages--Mediterranean--Viceroy's palaces--Windmills--Luxurious comfort--Concerts--Fellow-passengers--Harbour of Malta--Cholera precautions --Sight of Sicily, Sardinia, and Corsica...............177-195
The Stewardess's Story..........207
Eden of the Southern Sea.................211
Poetry written on board the "Hampshire"...........214
Poetry written for the projected "New Zealand Christian Year".........220