1889 - Wilson, J. A. Missionary Life and Work in New Zealand - PART I. TE PUNA, 1833-34.

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JOURNAL.

PART I.

TE PUNA, 1833-34.

Sunday (no date). --In the afternoon, as I accompanied the Rev. W. Williams to a village where he intended addressing the people, we observed a man sitting on a bank near the sea, where he had taken up his abode for the day. He told Mr. Williams that he and another had just arrived from a distance with a canoe full of provisions to sell at the mission settlement, but, finding it was the Ra tapu--sacred day, had at once anchored. On his saying that he had relations at the settlement, Mr. Williams desired him to take up his lodging with them, but the man, considering the place tapu that day, could not be moved from his purpose of waiting for the morrow.

Sunday, May 5th. --With five native converts partook of the Lord's Supper. One of these, Rawiri T-----;, a man about forty years of age, has been a most savage cannibal. It is said of him that in the late southern war he made captive a woman, whose husband he killed, and her two children afterwards were eaten by himself and his companions. Bad as human nature is, it seems impossible that it should ever have fallen so low, but such is the fact. This woman is now his only wife, and the two are an example of order, semi-civilization, and piety.

December 23rd, 1833. Te Puna, 1 Bay of Islands. --This morning took leave of my family, and with Mr. Fairburn (my good colleague) left Te Puna in an open boat --"Kukupa"--some two and a-half tons burden, with the intention of visiting the recently selected site for a new mission station on the Thames River, which is to be called the "Thames Station," and is about 150 miles to the south-east of the Bay of Islands. Since our arrival in this country I have always visited the villages and pas a few miles distant from the mission stations; but this is my first essay among thorough savages, who are fierce cannibals, without a vestige of civilization. As the evening drew on the wind headed us, with a heavy swell from the sea, and prevented our passing Matakokako, Cape Brett, so we anchored for the night in Paroa Bay. Here we found many

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natives fishing for kahawai, and preserving large quantities for winter use. They were nearly all heathens, but they received us kindly and gave us a liberal supply of fresh and dried fish. Had service in the evening with ah who would attend.

24th. --Got the boat ready before daylight, and after rowing some miles, landed for breakfast. The day soon became very hot. Running before the breeze we passed rapidly along the coast. The country is beautifully wooded, but near the sea often broken and sometimes very irregular. It appears quite different to any European seaboard, and its very diversity of formation gives it interest. We passed many pretty little bays and boat harbours in a run of forty-five miles. After midnight we drew our boat up at Whangarei, and pitched our tents at two o'clock in the morning.

25th. --The weather perfect. Standing before a fresh sea breeze, we passed at times through shoals of kahawai, in places covering the whole surface of the water. In these immense gatherings the fish appear in millions. They are finely formed, a model of symmetry, and are something like the mackerel. In going through these shoals the natives row quickly, and throwing a cleverly made artificial bait overboard, generally catch some. In the evening entered the more than pretty little cove of Omaha, which is well sheltered except from the east. The rocks here were covered with oysters, and so also the branches of the trees which dip in the water. In trying to get some birds for food my gun burst, but I escaped uninjured. The broken part passed within a few inches of my eye. How unceasing is the protection and goodness of God!

27th. --Wind fresh and fair. When we entered the Frith of the Thames--more than ten miles broad--the sea ran high, and the wind increasing, gave our boat (though built by a Deal boat-builder) 2 a good trial. After some hours we landed on the island of Pakihi. This delightful spot, perhaps not more than a thousand acres in extent, has a fair aspect, with a beautiful bay and beach facing the south, is fertile, and the waters abound with fish, but there are no natives on it. Such is the state of the country that the people are afraid to live on islands, however inviting, lest some roving war party should surprise and annihilate them. Mr. Fairburn, who came to New Zealand seven years, before me, observed that, some time since, 3 a company was formed in England which sent a good ship, well found, to examine these and other parts, with the intention of finding out their various resources, in order to colonize or trade. That after visiting several places they at last

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bought this island on account of its supposed mineral wealth, but the fierce, turbulent character of the natives alarmed them, and they finally abandoned the country, and directed their efforts to the northern pearl fishery. We are now about thirty miles from Puriri, the new station, which we hope to reach to-morrow.

28th. --Quitted Pakihi by moonlight, the wind light and fair. By 8 o'clock it freshened to a moderate gale, and this, meeting the ebb tide in the broad part of the Frith, raised a high sea. After two hours the estuary became narrower, and less sea, and at 10 a. m. we reached the village of Kopu, where we found the "Fortitude," a large schooner, which had been freighted at the Bay of Islands to bring stores and a few cattle to the Puriri. At Kaweranga, a village on the north side of Kopu, and near it, we found that inlet of the Frith, called the Thames by Captain Cook, terminates, and that two rivers a few miles apart branch from it and flow inland. The largest of these is the Waihou, which follows the high land on the eastern side of the Thames, winding its way into the interior, and generally keeping between one and two miles from the hills. It is navigable for boats and small vessels for thirty miles. The other river is called the Piako; it is the lesser of the two. For a short distance it passes by the land on the western side of the Thames, when it enters on a low, rich country nearly on a level with the estuary, and scattering its waters over the interior, forms large pools and swamps, and also fills the lower part of the dense forests that extend many miles inland. The natives say that these forests are dangerous to a stranger, owing to the water which in floods they receive from both rivers, and which remains in them; that there are no paths or tracks of any kind: that little of their wilds have ever been trod by foot of man.

They further state that when the Ngapuhi first obtained firearms from whaleships in exchange for fresh provisions (other tribes having only their Maori weapons could not oppose them), they devastated all lands but these; and that when Ngapuhi invaded the Thames, some of the people, to avoid certain destruction, took refuge in this wilderness of wood and water where none could follow them, and that a remnant of these fugitives remains in the forests to the present day. It seems that these swamps abound with eels, which are easily taken in the autumn when the ground is dry; but on what else these refugees subsist, how they live and are clothed, surprises even the natives themselves. Smoke, they say, is still sometimes seen above the thickest parts of the forests; that upon one or two occasions a few of the people have been seen, but the poor wanderers have never returned to their former homes, nor

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do they now seem willing to hold communication with their outside kinsmen. While slowly sailing up the river, we observed that the land was low and flat to the foot of the hills. The banks of the river, and the little creeks here and there falling into it, looked fresh with the bulrush and other leaves waving above them, and the beautiful green which seemed to cover everything, awoke in the memory the verdure of the country and the home we had left for the Gospel's sake. And as I now looked eagerly round for the settlement, as the spot of our future destiny, seeing the solitude and perfect isolation of the place, and knowing the rude and savage character of the people, all this, with the thought of the past and that all was now and forever forsaken in dear, dear old England, filled the heart with strong and varied emotions......

But the faith which God only can impart came at once to my aid, and inwardly lifting up my heart to Him, I felt assured and confident. That blessed invitation, "Thou hast been faithful over a few things, enter thou into the joy of thy Lord," will one day fill the heart with other feelings. What then shall we think of sufferings that befel us by the way, or of what we may now lose for our Master's sake? In an hour's time we entered a creek to the left, and after rowing for less than a mile between its muddy banks we landed in front of three mission houses, which a number of natives are building. The houses are about forty yards apart, with a narrow road between each, and a garden marked out in front. The houses are all the same size, forty by twenty-four feet; the posts on which the high-pitched roof rests are about eight feet above the ground. These dwellings are made of raupo, bulrush. The The outer walls are nearly a foot thick, which keeps out the weather very well. They cost when complete about five pounds. The end house to the east is to be mine; and here we found the Preeces, who had come in the "Fortitude."

Shortly after landing we were told of a poor European who had fallen a victim to native barbarity. It appeared that for some time past the tribe among whom he was living had not paid for the arms and ammunition sold to them, and he was about to remove the remainder of his trade to another village. Having filled a large canoe with all he had, and while sitting in the stern waiting for the crew, three men with a chief named Tohi came into the canoe and threw him overboard, ripped open his bowels in the water, then took his little property, cooked his body and ate it. But through the protection of a chief named Kahawai, this poor fellow's companion, a man named Scott, escaped. He was guarded through the night till he reached the coast thirty miles distant. Such intelligence

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is not very cheering on our first arrival in this remote place. When one contemplates these people, the inquiry often occurs, "Lord, what is man that thou shouldst set thine heart upon him?" In this land man has made himself more vile than the beasts. How can such be ever formed into the Divine image? But with God all things are possible! We are not ignorant of the work before us, and rely not on our own strength, wisdom, or courage, but humbly in God alone, and have no reason to despair. In His hand all instruments are alike. He, who made all things, can produce any change He pleases in the creatures he has formed.

29th. --Our first Sunday at Puriri. The morning service commenced by singing the hymn, "From Egypt lately come." The translation of this hymn is considered good, and if it lacked harmony, it was not wanting in spirit. I felt roused and much interested. The natives behaved well, and were attentive. An artist might have found subjects in that large assembly worthy of his best pencil. After service some were got together for a kind of Sunday School, and this is the beginning of such things at Puriri. In the afternoon Mrs. Preece prepared a room in her house, and here the little party of missionaries (Fairburn, Preece, and Wilson) who are to occupy this station met, and for the first time held a service in English. This good custom of holding a service in their native tongue is never omitted on the Sunday, however few may be present. Evening service with the natives was more interesting than that of the morning. Attention and inquiry sat on every face, and many a manly countenance lit up while listening to "The Way, the Truth, and the Life." The day has been one of encouragement. May God enable me more fully to confide in Him.

30th. --Surrounded all day by the natives. They spoke with good sense, always unreserved, and good humoured; took minute interest in everything they saw and heard.

31st. --Rev. W. Williams 4 arrived from a tour in the direction of Tauranga. He showed me a stone containing mineral, seemingly gold, less than a walnut in size, which he picked up after crossing the Ohinemuri, a small river which flows into the Waihou some few miles from this. The Maori is so familiar with war that when Mr. Williams and his companions made a fire at the head of Katikati, they took to their canoes and fled, which obliged his return, being unable to pass the streams without a canoe.

January 2nd, 1834. --We are, on the whole, satisfied with the central position of the station. The large tribes are within a circle of twenty miles. There are some encouraging traits about this

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people. With the exception of five or six Europeans, they know little of the white man, which is a great advantage to the missionary. To-day Messrs. Williams, Fairburn, and myself left the Puriri, on our return to the Bay of Islands. Mr. Williams preferring to return in the "Fortitude," we parted at Kopu, while we, in "Kukupa," held on our course till midnight, when we landed at Pakihi.

4th. --Reached an island called Waiheke where we had breakfast. After rowing ten or twelve miles came to a second island-- Tiritiri Matangi. Here our men caught some penguins among the rocks, which hunger made palatable.

Sunday, 5th. --A day of rest! How great is the mercy of God, who in His goodness has set apart this day for man's spiritual and temporal use; for indeed, both body and mind are refreshed. The day was very hot. We held Maori service under some fine trees; afterwards we read the English service.

6th. --Before day dawned we stowed the boat. After sunrise the wind freshened to a gale; in a few hours the sky darkened, and we, with difficulty, stood along the coast. By 11 a. m. it became nearly impossible to keep the boat's head to the sea. We had seventeen natives on board, besides luggage and provisions; our little vessel being sharp both fore and aft, laboured greatly. The wind became so heavy in the squalls that to lighten her we threw part of the potatoes and fresh water overboard. At 4 p. m. we reached a small haven, many miles from Tiritiri Matangi; here we landed for the night. The natives, after the fatigue of the day, wandered about seeking shell-fish and birds.

8th. --Yesterday we were weather-bound. To-day we stood across the next bay, the wind still strong and sea high. After a run of about fifty-five miles, we reached the headland of the Bay of Islands; all very weary. We had fasted nearly the whole day and were glad to rest at this place for the night.

9th. --Crossed the broad entrance of the Bay, landed at Te Puna 10 a. m. Thankful to find my dear wife and the boys quite well. We had sailed some two hundred and fifty miles in an open boat on a coast nearly unknown, without an accident.

10th. --This morning I was alarmed by the cries of one of our native women servants, and, on going outside, I found three Maoris dragging her away to their village to become the third wife of a petty chief. She besought me to help her, which I soon did. But this enraged them, and as I saw that she would only suffer the more from my interference and that force was useless, I sent for Mr. King. He tried persuasion, but in vain. The three men, without any regard to him, continued to drag and half carry the

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struggling, shrieking woman up the hill behind our houses, to their village. Truly, the state of man living without God is a state of bondage and misery removed from freedom and happiness. In this land the author of all evil rules with an iron hand.

11th. --To-day the girl escaped from her captor and returned to our house, where she concealed herself in an underground place. The chief and his party appeared shortly afterwards. He was a man of middle age, rather short, broad set, strong, and active. He came at once to me and furiously demanded the woman. I replied, "You must find her," and as I was afraid that he would enter the house, I fastened all the doors and then sat outside in the verandah, he and his men sometimes sitting near me or walking before me. Late at night they withdrew.

Sunday, 12th. --After morning service accompanied Mr. King to one of the villages. I must here observe that such is the respect which the heathen natives have for the Ra tapu, and which probably arises from superstition, that neither the chief nor any of his men were seen to-day, so the young woman, without fear, left her hiding-place and was at large during the whole day.

13th. --Very early this morning, before I was up, the men again returned. The chief shook my bedroom door so violently that I could not doubt my visitor. I immediately met him. He furiously inquired after the woman. All he could say did not move me, though my patience was as nearly exhausted as his own. To all his menaces my only weapon was quietness and affected indifference. When the chief could no longer endure this he hastily threw off all his clothes--a sure presage of evil with the Maori--and, armed with a heavy cudgel, he ran to and fro, shouting indignation and violence. And now, summoned by the noise, both friends and foes collected and were sitting around us. At last the chief was nearly exhausted, but before he had time to rally or mischief occur, Te Wharepoaka, the principal chief in these parts, came to the rescue. Te Wharepoaka was a man deeply stained in atrocity. It will be sufficient introduction to this person if I say that not long since he attacked and took the Cavalli Islands (some of which are mere rocks, and lie a short distance off Whangaroa). This man--if he may be called a man--having overpowered the inhabitants and slain most of them, made the living gather and carry the firewood with which they knew their own bodies would be cooked for this demon chief and his demon clan to devour. These were the men now sitting about. I had often seen Wharepoaka, and knew him a little, and my good friend Mr. King, the patriarch of the C. M. S., seemed to regard him as a sort of High Constable among a people

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with whom "might ruleth right." And now, in our need, he interposed, and with some warmth, dismissed the offending chief and his party without their prey.

15th. --Took the girl to Moturoa, where her mother's tribe are living.

17th. --To-day Tau, very silly girl, who I had landed amongst her own tribe, returned to live with us. Resolved by grace, notwithstanding every hindrance, to live nearer to God, and study His word more and more.

24th. --The men came again in search of Tau; they were insolent; they tried every door and window in the house. Having secured the doors, I then took writing materials and sat outside on the verandah, they sitting near the whole day. Had I attempted to enter they would have rushed in with me, so it became a matter of who should hold out longest. When evening came my friend grew impatient, and snatched a key from my hand, which he thought opened the room where the woman had taken refuge. Wearied, I sent again for the leading chief. They then withdrew one by one, and when the last man was gone, the men of the settlement again took the girl by boat to her friends.

Sunday, February 16th. --After morning service Mr. King and myself visited some of the villages. A long and toilsome walk over high hills brought us to the village of Mataka. Here we found only fourteen natives, and with these we had an afternoon service.

When Mr. King first landed at Te Puna (about 1816) this part of the country was swarming with people, and it is sad that the few who now remain where the Gospel was first preached are the most obstinate in rejecting it. The past horrible and revolting crimes of such men as Te Wharepoaka are not passed over or forgotten by a God of judgment.

March 10th. --See Note.

April 19th. --The past week has been employed loading the "Fortitude" with furniture, etc., for the Puriri station. To-day Mr. Fairburn's family and my own embarked. Wind fair, but signs of weather unfavourable.

Note from "Personal Narrative of Two Visits to New Zealand in H. M. S. 'Alligator,'" by W. B. Marshall, surgeon, R. N.: --"March 10th. I834. -- Lieutenant Woore and myself landed at Te Puna. Messrs. King, Wilson, and Henry Williams were on the beach. At the table of Mr. Wilson I partook, for the first time, of the kumera, or sweet potato, of this country, a pleasant enough vegetable, the flavour of which is a mixed one, resembling that of the common potato and the parsnip. And here it is but just to mention the considerate kindness of the two missionaries, King and Wilson. It had been told them that the sick on board (the 'Alligator') stood in need

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of a little vegetable diet, upon which they procured from the natives what they did not possess themselves, namely, six baskets of potatoes, at a reasonable price, and added, as a gift from their own gardens, a quantity of onions, all the pumpkins they had, and a liberal supply of cabbages. An instance of native barbarity, on the one hand, and on the other of native ingratitude, was related by Mrs. Wilson. She had in her service a female slave belonging to the neighbouring tribe, whose redemption had only been effected the evening before an attempt was made to decoy her beyond the missionary inclosure, where an assassin lay in wait to kill her. The decoy failed; force was resorted to, and she was dragged to the very gate outside of which immediate death awaited her, when her shrieks alarmed the family, and her master gained the spot in time to save her life by proving her right to freedom, regained possession of her, and thus ensured her preservation. She continued to live with the missionaries for some time after this, was married in their house to a fellow-servant, and by her conduct and conversation encouraged the belief that she was not only redeemed from slavery and death, but also from iniquity, when, to the astonishment and grief of her employers, her husband and herself eloped and returned to live among the natives, taking the precaution, however, to remove to a far-off village, and have not since been heard of. This, as the narrator feelingly remarked, is one of the trials peculiar to the missionary life among a people like the New Zealanders. Neither is this a tale of other days, but as it were of yesterday, having occurred within the past twelvemonth. "--Pp. 8, 18 and 19.