1814-1853 - The Missionary Register [Sections relating to New Zealand.] - 1816 - New Zealand--Church Missionary Society, p 114-118

Parramatta, May 30, 1815.

MAY IT PLEASE YOUR EXCELLENCY,

In obedience to your Excellency's Official Communication, directed to me on the 17th Nov. 1814, in which your Excellency instructed me to explore as much of the sea-coast and the interior of New-Zealand as my limited time would permit, and to report to you such observations as I might be able to make relative to that island, --I have the honour to transmit the following statement for your Excellency's information.

I landed on the North Cape of New Zealand; and on the Cavalles, some small inhabited islands, about forty miles southward of the Cape, and on the Main opposite to these islands. I also visited the River Thames, and landed on the west side of the harbour: but the principal part of my time was spent in the Bay of Islands and the adjacent country.

At the North Cape I only travelled two or three miles into the interior, and passed one day and a half, as we found no safe harbour for the vessel. The inhabitants are numerous, and a very fine race of people. Their potatoe plantations are all very neatly fenced in; and were in as high cultivation as the gardens in and near London, as they do not suffer a single weed to remain that would injure the growing crop. Here they cultivate turnips, yams, and common and sweet potatoes. Their gardens are principally situated in valleys, or where the land has a gentle rise and the soil is rich. What ground is not in cultivation, is generally covered with the flax-plant; or fern, the root of which is much esteemed by the Natives, and eaten by them as bread in England. The land which I passed over was generally good, and not so hilly as many other parts of New Zealand. There is no heavy timber; and, comparatively, little of any kind. It is very well watered in every direction. Supplies of fresh pork, and of fish and potatoes, when in season, may be obtained here at a very reasonable rate; but as there are no harbours for vessels, it must be difficult to get off refreshments, unless the weather is fine. The surf beats violently all along the beach, when it blows fresh from the sea; and the coast is very high and rocky, unless on a sandy beach.

On the Cavalles, the inhabitants are but few. There is a considerable quantity of good land, but very high. It is covered with the flax-plant and fern, like the North Cape; and there is scarcely a tree of any size. The land upon the Main appeared beautiful to the eye, from the top of the Cavalles, lying in alternate hills and valleys. The valleys were invariably filled with trees, and the hills entirely clear, having more the appearance of art than nature. I landed on the Main, and met with the people who cut off the Boyd, upward of five years ago. They were encamped, and I continued with them all night. The Chiefs related many circumstances relative to that fatal transaction, from which it appeared that the Europeans had been the first aggressors. There was one Chief present, who had sailed from Port Jackson in the Boyd, and upon whom corporal punishment had been severely inflicted during the passage to New Zealand. They invited me into their harbour of Whangooroa, where the remains of the Boyd lay; and said they would give me her guns, part of which were on shore, or any other of her property that they might possess; but the wind did not permit of our going in. The Chiefs went on board the Active to breakfast with me the next morning, and then returned on shore, when we immediately got under weigh. I found the land tolerably good, but very little of it fit for plough-cultivation, on account of its mountainous state. The Flat where the Natives were encamped might contain somewhat about one hundred acres, or more; part of which was enclosed, and planted with potatoes. The inhabitants were numerous, and exceedingly friendly; and we were furnished with a good supply of potatoes and pork. Between the main land and the Cavalles, there is a safe shelter for shipping, with good anchorage of seven fathoms water; as also a good passage between the Islands and the Main, both to the northward and southward. If a vessel cannot go, on account of contrary wind, on the outside of these islands, there is no danger in running in the inside of them.

All the coast from the Cavalles to the River Thames is very high and broken land, excepting Bream Cove, where the land is low and pretty level, for five leagues and upward. Along the sea-coast were found the greatest abundance of fish, particularly Bream-head, so called by Captain Cook. Here I found a great number of hospitable and friendly Natives; among whom was a young man called Moyhangee,

who had been in England, and is mentioned in Savage's Account of New Zealand. He was particularly rejoiced; and inquired after Lord Fitzwilliam, and several other Noblemen, who had been kind to him. Fish, potatoes, and pork, were very plentiful here.

On my arrival at the River Thames, I found the harbour very open; and extremely dangerous to shipping, when the wind sets in from the sea. There is no shelter, where a vessel can lie in safety, unless behind some of the islands which are both on the east and west side of the harbour, and which we had not time to examine. We had a very heavy gale, which prevented us from finding the channel into the Fresh-water River, which is exceeding narrow, with shallow water on each side. At the head of the cove grew a grove of lofty pines, which had a noble appearance. We stopped here three days, without being able to get into the river;. and my time being limited, did not admit of longer stay. I landed on the west side of the harbour, where there is a strong fortification, with a straggling village two miles in length. The Flat on which the village is situated may contain about 200 acres, with a soil generally rich, but strong. The land in the rear is hilly: part is planted with potatoes, which are very fine. The Natives were, by far, a more robust and fine-looking race than any I had seen; and the Chiefs and their wives were clad in a superior style.

From the River Thames we sailed to the Bay of Islands, where I continued upward of six weeks, and examined the adjoining country in every direction. The mouth of the harbour is about four leagues, with a good anchorage for shipping in several coves, as well as behind the islands, of which there are a number in the bay. Some of the coves run more than twenty miles into the interior.

There are four fresh-water rivers also, which run into the harbour in different places. These rivers derive the following names from the Natives; viz. Cowa-Cowa, Wycaddee, Wymattee, and Wytanghee.

Upon the banks of the Cowa-Cowa and Wycaddee the pine-tree grows to a considerable height and size. I measured some which exceeded thirty feet in circumference, and appeared to be from 80 to 100 feet high, without a branch, and very straight. There is sufficient depth for large ships, with good and safe anchorage, within ten miles from each of these rivers, and twelve from the heads of the harbour. I was up both these rivers, beyond where salt water extends. There is good land upon their banks, with several Native Villages. The low-lands seldom exceed 100 acres; and, in many places, not more than twenty. The high land, though very strong wheat land and covered with fern, could not be cultivated with the plough, on account of the broken surface. In short, the land more resembles the waves of the sea in a storm, than any other works of nature. I think it more than probable) from the hilly nature of the country, that sufficient falls of water could be met with on these rivers for turning mills, though I did not proceed high enough to examine adequately the truth of this conjecture.

I examined the rivers Wytanghee and Wymattee more particularly, and found upon them the finest natural Falls I ever beheld in any country.

The first Fall upon Wytanghee was situated at the head of the Salt-water Cove. A solid perpendicular rock, of almost a semicircular form, surrounded the head of the cove, and formed the banks on each side to a considerable extent. The rock runs across the Fresh-water River, from hank to bank, full 120 feet in extent. Over this level bed the river falls into the cove, sixteen feet perpendicular above the high-water mark. There was sufficient water in December, the time we were there, to turn any heavy mills for grinding flour, cutting timber, or any other purposes. This river seemed to derive its source from natural springs, and not from occasional rains; for, on examining the banks, I found no marks of land floods, from the grass and small trees standing in their natural posture. I am of opinion, therefore, that mills might safely be erected here, without being endangered by floods. Timber, wheat, or any other heavy articles, might safely and easily be conveyed by water to the very foot of the mills. There is much good land in the neighbourhood of the cove leading up to the river, and several Native Villages. I crossed this river about fifteen miles in the interior, where I saw other situations favourable for the erection of mills.

The Wymattee River falls also into the head of the Salt-water Cove, and lies about eight or ten miles to the northward of the Wytanghee. The water of this river runs over a Fall of about ten feet above high-water mark, which is formed by nature similar to many artificial mill-dams, which extend across rivers in England. One solid rock forms the bed of the river, and both banks are also rock. This is equally advantageous for the erection of mills.

From the Wymattee I walked, in a westerly direction, upward of twenty miles through the country.

For three miles after leaving the banks of the river, the land was generally level, and exceedingly rich and good, and well

calculated for the growth of wheat or other grain. There was no timber upon it; yet it was thickly covered with brushwood and fern. It extended on the right and left some miles, and might be easily cultivated with the plough,

For the next six miles the soil was of various qualities; some good, some stony, some swampy, and some of a gravelly nature. The country which I passed through was exceedingly well watered, haying crossed nine fine runs of fresh water in the distance of as many miles. I then entered a very fine wood of different kinds of timber: the pines, in particular, were of an uncommon size. After passing through the wood, I came to a Native Village, which was situated in a fine rich valley, through which ran a considerable rivulet.

For the next five miles the soil varied; some stony, but the land rich: in the stony land the Natives plant considerable quantities of potatoes. There was a large Flat of good land, that might be wrought with the plough. I observed one field, which appeared to me to contain forty acres and upward, all fenced in. In this enclosure were very extensive plantations of sweet and common potatoes.

Shortly after passing this field, I came to a strong fortified Village, containing about 200 houses. It was built on the summit of a very high hill, round which three deep and wide trenches were dug, at a few paces from one another; and all three fenced either with split or whole trees, not less than twenty feet high. In this fortification there were a number of people. The Village and people belonged to the Chief, Shunghee, and his brother, Kangorooa, as did all the country through which I passed. The two Chiefs have very large dominions; their territory extending from the east side of New Zealand opposite to the Cavalles Islands, to the west side of it. I slept two nights in this fortification. During the tune I remained here, I examined the country for about five miles to the westward, and arrived at a lake of fresh water about fifteen miles in circumference. Shunghee informed me, that this lake emptied itself into a fresh-water river, that runs into the Western Ocean; and that there was a very fine and extensive harbour on the west side, into which this river ran; but the entrance was very narrow, and a very heavy sea when the wind was from the southward.

I saw little grass in any part of New Zealand, excepting in small patches, where the land had been cultivated; neither is it possible for grass to grow while the country continues in a state of nature, on account of the immense quantity of fern which burthens the soil, and smothers all other vegetation. In many places it appeared six feet high, and stands as thick upon the ground as a crop of wheat.

There is no part of New Zealand that I saw so eligible for a settlement as the country last descried, which lies between the two rivers, Wymattee, and Wytanghee. It appeared extremely fine, and fit for cultivation, to the northward and westward, as far as the eye could discern. On my way between the banks of Wymattee and the fortified Village previously mentioned, I observed no free-stone. From the North Cape to the River Thames, a distance of about 200 miles, the rocks appeared of a very dark grey, and nearly as hard as a mill-stone; and, throughout the whole, bore nearly the sane aspect. The country abounds with pipe-clay and brick earth. I observed no signs either of coal or lime-stone. With respect to the timber, there is great variety, fit for building houses and ships, or for any other purposes. The pine-tree is by far the largest. I saw four different species, but no extensive forest. The flax plant is common all over the country. It grows in the richest valleys and on the poorest hills, and is a hardy annual plant. It serves the natives for fishing-lines, clothing, sleeping-mats, baskets, and various other purposes. It may he considered as the greatest gift of nature these people can inherit.

I found the Natives kind and friendly on every part of the coast. From the North Cape to the River Thames, they manifested an ardent desire to cultivate an intercourse with Europeans; and several of the Chiefs requested that I would send some to reside among them. Though I was persuaded that the New Zealanders would be glad to have some Europeans to instruct them in the arts and agriculture, I am of opinion that they would not quietly submit to have any part of their country wrested from them by any other nation, but would resist to the utmost of their power any attempt of this nature. A Chief might be induced to locate a certain part of his domain, for a valuable consideration, provided he could do this legally, in conformity with the customs of the country.

The boundaries of their estates appear to be accurately ascertained by land-marks, to shew who is the proprietor, and particularly on their fishing-grounds.

Though the Natives of this place were so very friendly to us, and shewed us every mark of attention, still I should recommend all masters of vessels to be extremely cautious in entering into any other harbour than the Bay of Islands, unless they can depend upon the good conduct of their crew. The New Zealanders will not be insulted with impunity, nor treated as men

without understanding. In the Bay of Islands, I should consider a vessel to ride as safe as in the harbour of Port Jackson, unless the crew behaved extremely ill; as the Natives here would not take offence on any trifling occasion.

All the natural productions of the islands, such as timber, flax, or any other article that may hereafter be found valuable to commerce, may be obtained from the Natives, for axes, or any other edge-tools that they might want. None of them appear to want industry, but only a proper object to stimulate them. They have done much in the way of cultivation, with such insufficient tools as they have been able to make of wood: but it is out of the power of man to clear and subdue, in its natural state, in any quantity, without iron, an article which they have had no means of procuring. I have every reason to hope, from a late communication, that the Church Missionary Society will, in a short time, supply their wants in this respect; and have only to solicit that your Excellency will be graciously pleased to recommend to the kind consideration of his Majesty's Government the inhabitants of this island, who, with a little assistance, would soon shake off the shackles of superstition and barbarism, and render themselves worthy of ranking in the list of civilized nations.

I have the honour to be, Sir,
Your Excellency's most obedient humble Servant,
(Signed) SAMUEL MARSDEN.
To His Excellency Govemor Macquarrie.