1843 - Dieffenbach, Ernest. Travels in New Zealand [Vol.I] [Capper reprint, 1974] - Part II. - Northern Island -- Northern Districts - Chapter XVIII

       
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  1843 - Dieffenbach, Ernest. Travels in New Zealand [Vol.I] [Capper reprint, 1974] - Part II. - Northern Island -- Northern Districts - Chapter XVIII
 
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CHAPTER XVIII

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CHAPTER XVIII.

Bay of Islands.

The Bay of Islands has been more resorted to by vessels than any other harbour of New Zealand, and it is undoubtedly one of the best, if not the very best, in the country. Queen Charlotte's Sound may, perhaps, be ranked as high, being equally sheltered and safe. A great deal of controversy has consequently arisen as to whether the Bay of Islands would not have been the most eligible place for the foundation of the commercial capital of New Zealand. Its advocates refer especially to the great number of vessels which for several years have annually resorted to this harbour for the purpose of obtaining provisions and of refitting, and to the number of Europeans already established there. But I must observe that the vessels which selected this harbour came principally for cheap provisions, which they found as long as there was no increased demand, and that they went to other places as soon as the prices rose. It seems to me that at present more is wanted than a good harbour to constitute the most eligible place for the

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BAY OF ISLANDS.

capital of New Zealand, and that the harbour which offers the greatest facilities for assembling around it a large agricultural population, and which possesses the easiest communication by land as well as by water with the surrounding country, has the best chance of ultimate success. Now, the Bay of Islands possesses none of these advantages: the country which surrounds the harbour consists almost entirely of hills, which are steep, although not of any great height, and alternating with ravines, which continue far inland. These hills are formed of a yellow argillaceous stone, and a basaltic rock, and it is only in the narrow ravines that there is a little fertile soil. Even where the coast-hills were formerly covered with forest, it has now disappeared, and is only met with some miles inland. Towards the harbour these hills form diminutive bays, inaccessible from the land. The different parts of the harbour are separated by arms of the sea, so that the construction of roads to connect them with each other, and with the interior, is impossible. There is, besides, scarcely sufficient room in any of the bays even for a moderate-sized town, unless placed on the side of a steep hill. The only exception to the mountainous character of the place is the table-land extending from the Waitangi towards the Hokianga and the Keri-keri. But this district, as already observed, cannot be ranked amongst the best portions of New Zealand,

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BAY OF ISLANDS.

and has, moreover, the disadvantage of having no water-carriage.

Besides this flat district, there is a valley with a considerable extent of excellent land up the Kauakaua, an arm of the bay, stretching to the south, into which runs a small fresh-water stream. This valley is in the hands of a large native tribe, who cultivate it very extensively.

The number of whaling and other vessels in the Bay of Islands has much decreased during the last twelve months. This is chiefly owing to the increase of Europeans, who consumed the scanty produce of the region. If the necessaries of life ever come down to reasonable prices in New Zealand, and if at the same time liberal measures be adopted towards foreign whalers, there can be no doubt but they will all again resort to that country, situated as it is nearer to the whaling-ground than any other.

There exists already a little town at Kororarika, a small cove in the bay, which offers great facilities for shipping, but is difficult of access from the mainland. The same is the case with Russell, the proposed Government town, at the mouth of the Kaua-kaua; whilst Victoria, the embryo capital of Mr. Bushby, possessing the finest and most level site for a town, and commanding the Waimate table-land, and therefore the best communication with the interior and Hokianga, as well as with

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KAUA-KAUA RIVER.

the districts lying to the northward, has no place for the anchorage of vessels, and is, moreover, open to the whole force of the north-easterly winds.

The Kaua-kaua has the aspect of a broad river, bounded by steep and wooded hills. In small nooks on the shore Europeans have erected humble-looking houses. Inns are not wanting, and abundance of fowls, geese, and ducks render the scene very homely and English-looking.


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