1817 - Nicholas, J. L. Narrative of a Voyage to New Zealand [Vol.I] - CHAPTER VI

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CHAP. VI.

THE morning of the 21st of December found us in perfect safety, after having passed the night among these people without the least molestation. I must here observe, that this honourable security of our persons, which we had placed completely in their power, is

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the strongest proof that can be given of their not being wantonly cruel; and that if treated with kindness, their friendship might readily be conciliated. It may be questioned whether Nature has ever formed any race so perversely implacable as to repel those kindly feelings which a courteous demeanour and obliging services must always inspire; and the most barbarous savage will not feel the same sensations in his heart, while subject to the galling lash of the oppressor, as when tenderly treated by the benevolent philanthropist.

The chiefs George and Tippouie, with three or four of their warriors, were invited to accompany us to breakfast on board the ship, with which they were very happy to comply, and shewed no signs of fear or hesitation. Passing through the village on our return, we found the inhabitants all stirring and going about their usual employments. We were very soon followed to the beach, where our boat lay ready to receive us, by numbers of them who crowded round us, and were very ready to offer us their assistance in pushing off the boat. As we put off from the shore, the morning was ushered in with all the brilliancy of

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Nature, and every sense was regaled with the delightful freshness which the light breezes from the coast were continually wafting along with them. The sun had just risen from the ocean, and the distant horizon seemed already enlivened by its beams, while the cloudless atmosphere, soft and serene, tempering its genial warmth with the agreeable coolness of the early hour, appeared to revive the whole animated creation. My mind was powerfully impressed with the scene, for never before did Nature present herself to my view, more sublime and magnificent.

The moment we got on board, we had all the ship's company drawn up upon deck as a compliment to the chiefs, whom they saluted with three hearty cheers, and this gave them a very satisfactory assurance of the cordiality of our welcome. This testimonial of friendship, which might be said to answer to their own signal of the mat, was no sooner over, than they were conducted to the cabin, where Mr. Marsden, intending to pay them every respect and distribute presents among them, appointed Duaterra to act as master of the ceremonies. This chief was probably the best qualified of any for such an office, when such

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visitors were to be received, and the arrangements he made were appropriate and satisfactory. The chiefs George and Tippouie he placed on one side the table, and directed Mr. Marsden himself to stand on the other. All the rest who had access to the cabin, were, together with myself, ranged round it, and each individual took his station with a scrupulous regard to decorum. The presents, consisting of pieces of red India print, plane irons, scissars, nails, and fish-hooks, were then brought, and Duaterra, handing them to Mr. Marsden, desired him to pay the first compliment to Tippouie as being the eldest, and then to George, with the same attention to respect. These people are extremely observant in this particular, and the Lacedaemonians, who were celebrated for the deference they paid to age, never held an old man in more veneration than they do. Indeed, this fine trait is perceptible in the character of all the islanders in this part of the world, and an excellent work which has lately been published, 1 records it

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in a manner highly creditable to the people of whom it treats. With the presents they received, Mr. Marsden gave each of them one of Governor Macquarie's proclamations, the substance of which was explained to them by Duaterra; and this business being concluded, we all shook them by the hand, giving them at the same time another volley of cheers, which they were not backward in returning.

Duaterra, now addressing himself to George, commenced an admonitory lecture, by which he was to regulate his future conduct. He told him, that as he was no longer considered an enemy by the white people, and had nothing to fear as to any retaliation of the horrid deed he had committed, he should be particularly careful that his future behaviour should continue to deserve oblivion of the past, and be such as at all times might entitle him to our friendship. But if the contrary were the case, and that he ever again resolved on

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cutting off another vessel, the revenge, he said, both upon himself and his tribe, would be dreadful and decisive; for Governor Macquarie would send a ship with such a number of men, as would instantly destroy every living soul at Wangeroa. The next caution he gave him was relative to his own territory. He charged him never again upon any account to bring his warriors to Tippoonah, or venture to attack it, as in the event of his doing so, he would himself collect all his people and offer such a resistance, as would punish his audacity and make him repent of the enterprise. However, if he should wish to obtain any thing from him occasionally, he said, it would be readily granted, on making proper application, either personally or by message; but every attempt at force would not only be repelled with success, but retaliated with vengeance.

Duaterra delivered this address with much impressive earnestness, and George heard it with serious attention; never interrupting the speaker except when he wished to disclaim the idea of future hostility, and then he would shake his head, and cry out, "No, no;" while in this instance the

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warmth of his manner might shew he was sincere.

This caution being given, and breakfast being over, the chiefs prepared to return on shore, and getting into a canoe which their people had brought along-side, they left us quite delighted with the presents they had received, and impressed with the most favourable sentiments of our hospitality and munificence.

Thus has the laudable enterprise of Mr. Marsden succeeded, to all appearance, in conciliating the natives of Wangeroa; and the accomplishment of this measure must add considerably to the security of the mission, as this ferocious race being left to themselves, and without any such attempt on his part to gain them over, might eventually prove the destruction of the hopes he had formed. But though the persons and property of the missionaries are likely to be respected in consequence of the friendly intercourse thus established with these people, I am by no means prepared to say, that a similar regard would be paid to other Europeans. On this account, I should advise all commanders of vessels who may at any future time wish to enter their harbour, to be

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first well provided with the means of defence, and next, to be always on the alert against the necessity to employ it. I have given my opinion already respecting George, and while I do him all the justice he deserves, this still remains unaltered. His heart, if I mistake not, conceals at bottom some of the worst qualities in human nature; and the intercourse he has had with our sailors, who are so shamefully prone to low swearing and abominable language of every kind, has made him au accomplished proficient in all their depravity, I never could perceive in him a single trace of that manly candour and ingenuous openness which I admired in Duaterra; and the sincerity he evinced on receiving the cautionary advice, seemed rather the result of alarm, than of moral conviction.

But, besides the character of this man, which is always to be suspected, there is another circumstance that deserves to be seriously considered. These savages have been suffered with impunity to retain their plunder; and as their dreadful attack upon the Boyd succeeded so well, it may probably act as an incentive to some future deed of similar cruelty. Iron and fire-arms are by

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them held in greater estimation than gold and silver by us, and the most avaricious miser in Europe cannot grasp with such eagerness at a guinea or a dollar, as the New Zealander does at an axe or a musket

In this country, as in every other, there are to be found men whose actions are not restrained by any moral considerations; and when a chieftain of this character is invested with any considerable degree of authority and influence, too much precaution cannot be observed in the intercourse to be held with him. I would therefore repeat my caution to such captains of ships as may visit these regions, and this district in particular; for though remissness may not be attended with danger, it will be always better not to neglect the means of safety.

As soon as our visitors had taken their departure, Mr. Hall and myself, taking our fowling-pieces with us, and getting into a canoe that was along-side, were paddled to the shore and landed on the little island called Pannak. We were accompanied by two of the natives, and after ranging along the shore for a considerable distance, in the hope of meeting with some game, were completely disappointed, and could not get a

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single shot. I gave my gun in charge to one of our attendants, who considered the privilege of carrying it, next to making him a present of it, the greatest favour I could possibly confer upon him. They pointed to some rocks where they said there were nuee nuee manno, (a great many birds,) and were very pressing to paddle us to them; with which, to satisfy their impatience, and for our own amusement, we did not hesitate to comply. As we were proceeding, however, we were soon obliged to return to the ship, for, espying a large canoe full of men making towards us, we were called by them with loud vociferations, and as it approached us, we were informed by one of our New Zealand sailors, that a favourable wind having sprung up, they were getting the vessel under sail for the Bay of Islands. Looking towards the ship, we found this to be the case; they were loosening the sails and making all the other necessary preparations; so, leaving the rocks unexplored, and the nuee nuee manno, if there were any there, undisturbed, we paddled back with all the haste we could make, and the ship immediately on our return stood out to sea.

On Thursday, December 22, just as the

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day was beginning to appear, we found ourselves off Point Pocock, the northern entrance of the Bay of Islands. The opening of the harbour is formed by the projection of two long necks of land running together in a parallel direction, and getting very narrow towards the extremity; Point Pocock to the north, and Cape Brett to the south. The space between these promontories is about fifteen miles in breadth, and ships generally steer through the middle of the channel, as it is thought dangerous to approach too near to the shore of Point Pocock. We also judged it prudent to keep at a proper distance from this shore, and entered the harbour through the usual track. There is no part of New Zealand where the works of nature are not always powerful enough to arrest the attention of the contemplative mind; and the view presented in this quarter is peculiarly interesting. The hills which form the sides of the harbour disclose to the eye a rich covering of green fern, and lofty trees are seen together in clusters, that either hang from the side of one precipice, or rise gradually to the very summit of another. At a short distance from the mouth of the harbour is a large island, and beyond this the main land,

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lying open to a considerable extent, and presenting numberless scenes of romantic attraction, till the view is terminated by a rugged chain of rising mountains.

At seven A. M. we discerned two canoes standing towards us, in one of which a native dressed in a seaman's jacket was seen waving a handkerchief, and the canoe in which he stood was adorned with a large blue flag hoisted at the stern. When she came alongside, all the sensibility of Korra-korra was awakened anew, and the moving tenderness of his affection was again elicited in tears of joy; he beheld his brother and his son, and falling on their necks, he seemed for some moments overpowered with his emotions, till bursting into tears, as in the interview with his aunt, he relieved his heart by weeping bitterly, uttering at the same time in low and monotonous accents, a few words, which I should suppose were meant for congratulations. His son, who was immediately brought on board, was a fine boy about ten years of age, and dressed in a cotton frock that had been given to him by the missionaries, on their first visit to the island. Leaving this lad in our charge, he wished to proceed himself to his territory; and getting his chest

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and the different things belonging to him into the canoe, he shook hands most affectionately with us all, and, bidding us farewell, promised he would soon pay us a visit at Tippoonah. Before he paddled off, we saluted him with three cheers, which he and his party returned with double interest.

During the whole of the voyage, the steady and correct behaviour of Duaterra was highly commendable, and his services were often eminently useful. While entering the harbour, the Captain thought it expedient to put himself entirely under his direction, as being much better acquainted than himself with the particular localities, and knowing how to avoid some dangerous rocks which are concealed not far from the channel. He displayed on this occasion, both judgment and activity, and by his directions the ship was brought without having sustained the least injury abreast of Rangehoo, his place of residence, where we anchored in four fathoms water.

Thus arriving at length at the place of our destination, we were cheered with the prospect of the future, and regretted not the labours of the past. We now fired a salute with our great guns and musketry, as a

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mark of respect to Duaterra, as well as to impress upon the minds of the natives that we were at peace and friendship with them. Mr. Marsden and myself had the boat lowered down, and went on shore; but Duaterra did not think proper to accompany us, as he wished to remain on board the ship till he had seen all the stock taken out of the hold and put into the boats. At the same time, I will say, that his showing more impatience to visit his friends after so long an absence from his native country, would have placed him much higher in my estimation than did this prudential delay. But he thought he might lose something by an affectionate precipitancy, and this is only another proof of the predominance of self-interest among these people.

We landed at the opening of a narrow valley, through which a small meandering stream found its way to the sea; the hills on each side were very steep, in some places almost perpendicular, and covered, as I before observed, with fern and trees. On the top of a hill that rose to the left of us with a rugged ascent, and overlooking the harbour, was built the town of Rangehoo, now the residence of Duaterra, and lately that of

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Tippahee, whose melancholy fate I shall hereafter have occasion to notice. Around this town (if it may be so called) were several plantations of potatoes, coomeras, and other vegetables, and the cultivation had such an appearance of neatness and regularity, that a person not acquainted with the character of the natives, could never suppose it was the work of uncivilized barbarians. Each plantation was carefully fenced in, and hanging down from the sides of steep hills, might remind one of instances of similar industry which are related of the Chinese.

On the shore we found collected a number of the natives, men, women, and children, whose countenances and manner indicated very plainly the pleasure we afforded them by our visit. Mr. Marsden's name was familiar in their mouths, and they crowded round him with strong marks of affectionate regard. On the arrival of the boats with the cattle, they appeared perfectly bewildered with amazement, not knowing what to conclude respecting such extraordinary looking animals. Cows or horses they had never seen before, and diverted now from every thing else, they regarded them as stupendous prodigies. However, their astonishment was

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soon turned into alarm and confusion; for one of the cows that was wild and unmanageable, being impatient of restraint, rushed in among them, and caused such violent terror through the whole assemblage, that imagining some preternatural monster had been let loose to destroy them, they all immediately betook themselves to flight.

But this cause of their panic being removed, they did not hesitate to return, and Mr. Marsden, mounting the horse, rode up and down the beach, exciting their wonder in a tenfold degree. To see a man seated on the back of such an animal, they thought the strangest thing in nature; and following him with staring eyes, they believed at the moment that he was more than mortal. -- Though Duaterra, on his return from his former visit to Port Jackson, had described to his countrymen the nature and use of the horse, his account appeared to them so preposterous, that it only excited their ridicule. Having no name in his language for this animal, he thought that corraddee, their term for a dog, would be the best designation he could adopt; but as they could not elevate their ideas of it to the same height as bis description, they believed not a single word

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he said. On telling them that he had seen large corraddees carry men and women about in land canoes, (meaning carriages,) they would put their fingers in their ears to prevent themselves from listening to him, and desire him very indignantly not to tell so many lies. A few of them, however, more curious than the rest, to prove his veracity, would mount upon the backs of their pigs, saying they must be more fit for the purpose of riding than the corraddees; and, endeavouring to gallop them about in the style of European horsemanship, they quickly tumbled into the dirt, and became quite as incredulous as their sceptical companions. This was, therefore, a day of triumph to Duaterra, as it afforded him an opportunity of convincing them by ocular demonstration of the truth of his statement. The cattle, on being landed, were all in a thriving condition, except the cow belonging to Shunghi, which appeared in a very weak state.

Duaterra, having got all his property on shore, was now ready to conduct us to his town, which standing, as I mentioned, on the summit of a steep hill, rendered the approach to it a work of some labour and fatigue. The plantations on the hill, which

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appeared to such advantage at a distance, improved still more on a nearer view of them, and every thing bespoke not only the neatness, but even the good taste of the cultivators. Not a weed was to be seen, and the paling, which was ingenious though simple, gave an effect to the enclosure that was peculiarly striking. Before we reached the top, we could perceive that the town was a fortress of very great strength, considering the rude mode of warfare pursued in this island. It was almost encompassed with a deep and wide trench, on the inner side of which was formed a breast-work of long stakes stuck ia the ground at a short distance from each other, and so compactly firm as to be capable of resisting for a long time the most impetuous attacks of its undisciplined assailants. Passing this fortification, we entered the town itself, which consisted of some huts built on each side of several little lanes, or rather pathways, for they were made barely wide enough for one person to pass through at a time. Before each hut was an enclosed space, resembling a court-yard, in which was a shed or out-house, employed by the inhabitants for various purposes of domestic convenience. The entrance to these

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enclosures was by stiles ingeniously contrived, and fancifully embellished; and I observed some on which there was a rude carving of the human form. The lanes on our way to Duaterra's residence, which stood on the most elevated part of the hill, were crossed in some parts with these stiles, and we were obliged to pass three of them before we got into the little lane that led up to the door.

The hut of this chief, (or if this mean epithet must be discarded for the grandest that can be used, his palace,) differed but little from those of his subjects, and was distinguished only by its being built upon a larger scale, and having more ground enclosed around it. It measured about twenty feet long, fifteen broad, and eight feet in height, with a ridge-like roof, and built of sticks interwoven with rushes. The doorway, like all the rest, was so very narrow as to preclude the possibility of entering it, unless by creeping in upon the hands and knees. The interior presented nothing to compensate the trouble of getting in, and a few stones thrown together to serve for a fire-place, were the only domestic articles I could possibly discover. Furniture there

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was none, and the smoke finding no egress except through the door-way, which was the only aperture to be seen, the dismal edifice teemed with suffocating vapour, and formed with the wretched inmates, a complete picture of cheerless barbarism.

But the abject misery of these huts was in some measure compensated by the sheds outside, which were open, lightsome, and comparatively pleasant. Here they always take their meals, as they make it an invariable rule never to eat in their dwellings, and their reasons for observing this practice, are founded on certain superstitions of terrific controul. Duaterra, in addition to the one before his hut, had another of these sheds in an adjoining enclosure, where he kept his potatoes, coomeras, &c.; and a few paces outside this, was a little spot neatly fenced round, where he had erected a flag-staff, and suspended a flag, that had been given to him by the commander of one of our vessels who happened to touch at this part of the island.

This hill commanded a most noble prospect, taking in at one view, a great part of the extensive harbour and its numerous islands, with the whole of the surrounding

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country. I found the town much larger than I at first supposed, while viewing- it from the ship, whence only a small portion of it could be seen, from the irregularity of the intervening ground. The huts and sheds taken together, may probably have been about a hundred, and I estimated the inhabitants at one hundred and fifty or two hundred souls.

Polygamy is universal among these islanders, and the number of wives varies in proportion to the circumstances of the individual; there being however a head wife who is treated with particular respect, and holds an ascendancy over the husband, which never excites the jealousy of the others. Duaterra had three wives, and the head one, to whom he introduced us, was considered no less a personage than a queen by all the people within his territory. Mr. Marsden presented her majesty with a cotton gown and petticoat, which he told her he had brought from Mrs. Marsden, who wished it to be given to her; and anxious to see how this European dress would become a New Zealand queen, he helped her to put it on, and it was ludicrous enough to see how adroitly he acted the part of a lady's maid

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on this occasion. His instructions, shewing her how she was to put her arms in the sleeves, and directing her in adjusting the petticoat, amused me exceedingly, nor was it less laughable to see her majesty's vanity on being decked out in this novel attire. The New Zealand ladies, though the name of fashion has never reached their ears, are quite as fond of shewing off their charms to advantage as our own fair countrywomen; and Duaterra's favourite sultana possessed this passion for display in an extraordinary degree. She. moved about with a strutting affectation of dignity, and giving herself a thousand consequential airs, looking at her dress, and seeking admiration, seemed to take all her pride from the gown and petticoat. But I thought her own simple dress of a mat, tied round the waist, was much more becoming; for being low-sized, and very fat, with a round plump face, her new costume, which was much too tight for such a figure, gave her an awkward and embarrassing stiffness. Her face, however, made ample amends for her unshapely form, as it had many beauties which were both interesting and attractive. She had fine black eyes sparkling with animation; teeth of an

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ivory whiteness; a blooming complexion; and all her features peculiarly expressive of cheerful complacency. During the absence of the chief, she had brought him a son and heir, a fine healthy looking boy that was suckled at her breast, and was alternately caressed by the several females in the family of Duaterra.

The curiosity of the natives to see us, brought crowds of them round the hut of their chief, and there were many old men, who, like those at the Cavalles, regarded all our actions in profound silence. In the group of women that stood gazing on us, was the widow of the late chief Tippahee, a poor decrepid old woman, who was attended by her daughter, and had nothing- in her appearance that could bespeak her the relict of so powerful a chief. She was meanly clad, and languishing under the weight of age and infirmity, her feeble body was hardly able to support itself. Her daughter was very lively, and distinguished from the other females by a large silver chain suspended from her neck, a present which her father had formerly received from the late Governor King.

I have before given some instances of the

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tender affection subsisting between relations in this country, and no where else can it be found more ardent and sincere. The New Zealander loves his connections in the genuine warmth of his heart, and is never more happy than when he can enjoy their society. This principle was exemplified in the family of Duaterra, the father and relations of his head wife having come to live with them, as it was not convenient for the chief to leave his territory, and reside with them in the interior. His wife's two sisters were the most remarkable among these, one of whom was distinguished for her uncommon beauty, and the other for the facetious vivacity of her manner. The former appeared about seventeen, and would have been deemed even in England, where there are so many rivals for the palm of beauty, a candidate of the strongest pretensions. Her regular features, soft and prepossessing, displayed an engaging delicacy, the effect of which was heightened by the mild lustre of her eye; and her cheek, lightly tinged with the roseate hue of health, needed not the extraneous embellishment of paint, to which some of our finest belles are so fond of resorting. In her figure she was slender and graceful, while

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the artless simplicity of her manner gave additional interest to her charms. Her sprightly sister was considerably older, not being less, I should suppose, than forty, and so fond of mirth that she was continually laughing; in fact, she appeared good-humour personified. We could easily perceive, from the effect her sallies had on her companions, who were directed to observe us, that the packaha, or white man, was the subject of some extraordinary remarks, and called forth the rarest specimens of her witty effusions. I doubt not but her jokes upon us were indulged with a good deal of freedom, as all our movements excited the loudest bursts of laughter.

Of the two other wives of Duaterra, one had been discarded for incontinence during his absence at Port Jackson, when she attached herself to another man, regardless of the duty she owed her husband; and the other, who was rather a well-looking woman, appeared on very good terms with the head wife. She nursed the child of the latter with as much affection as though it were her own, and behaved to it with the greatest care and tenderness. There was no rivalry, except in mutual good offices, among these wives.

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To amuse us, three of the young women stood up to dance, accompanying their movements, which were both easy and graceful, with the song of Athoma, athoma, athoma, the words of which I have given in another part of this work. Happy people! they enjoyed the passing hour undisturbed by those vexatious cares, which in civilized society too often intrude themselves, to counteract the pleasures of the festive scene; and confiding implicitly in our friendly intentions, they gave themselves up to all the unreserved freedom of harmless mirth; pleased with themselves, and delighted with their visitors.

It was now time to return to the ship, and taking leave of Duaterra and his family, we proceeded to the beach, accompanied by a great concourse of the natives, who were all anxious to testify their regard for us, as well as to satisfy their own curiosity. The children were no less eager to see the packaha, than the grown folks; and running up to us in the most familiar manner, they vied with each other in endeavouring to attract our notice. As we were putting off from the shore, the whole assembled multitude cried out together, "Ire atudo, eckeneedo," their usual kind salutation on parting with their friends,

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which serves among them for our word farewell.

On the next day, which was the 23d, we did not go on shore until the afternoon, lest our presence might interfere with the just punishment which Duaterra resolved to take in the morning on the man who had seduced his wife during his absence. This culprit, whose name was Warree, had been a sailor on board some of our ships, where he soon lost whatever crude notions he had of morality, and became, like George, from his intercourse with our seamen, an expert proficient in turpitude. And here the reader may allow me for a moment to digress, while I ask those excellent men who take such pains in the dissemination of divine truth among remote nations, why they do not turn their eyes with more earnestness, towards this profligate class, who are of our own country, and whose society is enough to contaminate the savage, and root out from his heart every sentiment of virtue that nature had implanted there? Their labour in this instance would surely be well applied, and might serve to reform men, who are at once the pride and disgrace of the British nation.

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Korra-korra, of whose district this offender was a native, delivered him up to Duaterra on discovering his crime, being found by him at the Cavalles, whence he was brought by us a prisoner to the Bay of Islands. Duaterra had him put in irons and sent on shore; and though he was urged by Korra-korra and the rest of his countrymen to take his life, which was forfeited by the established usage of the island, yet such was the tenderness of his heart, that he was willing to commute the punishment, and resolved not to put him to death. Having asked Mr. Marsden's advice as to the sort of punishment he should inflict upon him, that gentleman suggested flogging as the most suitable, and this he immediately prepared to put into execution. The cat-o'-nine-tails he made himself, and shewing it to me, well knotted and tied, asked my opinion if I thought it would answer the purpose, and was very anxious to know the number of lashes that might be inflicted without endangering the man's life. Mr. Marsden, leaning to the side of mercy, advised only twenty.

In the afternoon when we got on shore, we discovered that Warree had been punished with thirty lashes inflicted by one of Dua-

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terra's people; after which he was sent back to his place of confinement, where he was to remain till the ship sailed, when he was to be released and put on board. Duaterra wished that Mr. Marsden should keep him as a sailor for three years, telling the culprit that if he ever again ventured to come within his territory, he should be instantly put to death.

The clemency of this chief, in awarding so slight a punishment to an offence, which among the New Zealanders is held in equal abhorrence as with the Hebrews of old, and punished with the same rigour, afforded a strong proof of the goodness of his disposition, and left on my mind a lasting impression in his favour. Probably there never was an instance among them before this, of adultery escaping the punishment of death to one or other of the parties implicated; so great is their horror of this crime, which they think the most heinous that can be committed. It is worthy of remark, however, that they make a curious distinction as to the guilt of the parties. If the criminal connection is discovered in the hut belonging to the female, the man is instantly pronounced the seducer, and therefore consigned to death, while the

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woman escapes with a sound beating; but if the contrary takes place, and the incontinent lady is detected in the man's hut, then she is sentenced to lose her life, being supposed to have allured her gallant, who goes off with impunity. It were well, probably, if the legislature would adopt this usage, with certain modifications, into our criminal code: we should then find wives more faithful to their husbands, and husbands more constant to their wives; and the purses and reputations of many folks, would not suffer such irreparable losses in the career of vice as they now sustain.