1856 - New Zealand Pilot - CHAPTER I. FROM THREE KINGS ISLANDS TO HAURAKI GULF

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CHAPTER I.

FROM THREE KINGS ISLANDS TO HAURAKI GULF, INCLUDING AUCKLAND HARBOUR AND ITS APPROACHES.

VARIATION, 13 deg. to 14 deg. EAST.--1850-54.

Vessels from the westward, and bound for Auckland harbour, or any of the ports on the east side of the North island, should sight the Three Kings, a cluster of islands lying 38 miles W.N.W. of Cape Maria Van Diemen, which forms the north-west point of the North island of New Zealand. The group extends 7 miles in an E.N.E. direction; the islets are of considerable height, and may be seen at a distance of 20 miles.

The tides and races between these islands run from 3 to 5 knots, and frequently have the appearance of shoal water. H.M.S. Pandora sounded the different channels, and found no dangers that were not visible:--the only detached danger is a rock a little above water, which lies east of the Great King, about three quarters of a mile.

Vessels may pass on either side of these islands; but it is recommended they should be passed on the north side at a distance of two leagues, as by so doing the strong currents in their immediate vicinity are avoided, as also tide races which exist between them and the land. They are uninhabited, and the landing is dangerous and uncertain at all times.

Leaving the Three Kings islands, a course should be steered to pass North Cape (Otou), at about the same distance, although, if desired, it may be approached within a mile.

NORTH CAPE bears from the north King island E. 3/4 S. 47 miles. It is a steep flat topped cliff 740 feet high, sloping for three miles to the N.W,, and on a nearer approach it exhibits a reddish appearance. Off the pitch of the cape, but connected by a ledge of rocks, is a peaked islet; and for one third of a mile N.E. by E. of the islet is foul ground, with a rock at its extremity only uncovered at low water.

CAPE BRETT.--Being abreast of the North cape, distant two leagues from it, an E. by S. 3/4 S. course will lead 10 miles outside cape Brett, the easternmost cape of the Bay of Islands, a remarkable bold quoin-shaped headland 1,200 feet high, with a high round hummock on its extreme point. It bears E.S.E. from the North cape, and is 78 miles distant. A high steep islet (Piercy islet), perforated with a hole or archway, lies

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N.E. by N. from the Cape, nearly half a mile distant. Cape Brett may be seen in clear weather from 25 to 30 miles.

POOR KNIGHTS.--On rounding cape Brett, the Poor Knights islands (Tawiti Rahi) will be seen; they are two rugged looking islands, about 200 feet high, lying close together, and extending in a north and south direction 2 1/2 miles; their north end bears from cape Brett S.E. by E 1/3 E., 26 miles, and their distance from the nearest point of the main is 11 miles.

Steer for these islands, passing on either side: the water is deep,--64 fathoms,--and there are no dangers. 3 miles S. 1/2 E. of their southern extreme are three steep cone-shaped islets, and a fourth of the same character, S. 1/2 W., 4 1/2 miles; these islets can be seen at a distance of 10 or 12 miles; should the Poor Knights be passed on the outside at a distance of 2 miles, a vessel, when abreast of them, should steer S.S.E., which is a direct course into the Hauraki gulf, and leads between the Moro Tiri isles, and the Moko Hinou and Fanal islands, 4 miles from the former and 8 from the latter.

MORO TIRI ISLANDS, or HEN AND CHICKENS, are a group of four islands (with some islets off their western end,) lying in an E.N.E. and W.S.W, direction, and five miles in extent. They bear from the southern Poor Knight S. b. E. 23 miles; from Bream head, the Western Chicken bears E. b. S. distant 5 miles, the group are clear of dangers.

BREAM HEAD (Tewara) is a remarkable cape, 1,500 feet in height, very rugged and craggy, and its summit resembling the head of an animal, having two nipples or ears on it; it is the north head of Wangari bay and Harbour, and bears from the southernmost Poor Knight S. 3/4 W. 22 1/2 miles.

MOKO-HINOU and FANAL ISLANDS.--These islands are 15 miles to the eastward of the Moro Tiri islands. The Moko-hinou are the northernmost, and consist of three islands, about 250 feet high; the two principal islands lie close together, and are each nearly a mile in extent, in a N.E. and S.W. direction: they bear from the southernmost Poor Knight S.E. 1/3 E. 29 miles, and from the east Chicken E. 3/4 N. 14 3/4 miles. W. by N. If miles from the south-westernmost island, is a smaller one, lying N.W. and S.E., nearly half a mile in length; there are no dangers about these islands but what are visible.

Fanal island is E. by S. 1/2 S., 2 miles distant from the S.W. Moko-Hinou; it is little more than half a mile in length, and N. b. E. of it three quarters of a mile distant, lies a long reef, half a mile in extent east and west, and always above water. Navire rock lies S. b. W. 3/4 W., three quarters of a mile from the S. W. point of Fanal, and the Simpson Rock

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S. 1/2 W. 2 3/4 miles. These two rocks are well out of the water, and the latter may be seen at 3 miles distance.

TARANGA ISLAND, (the Hen) of the Chicken group; lies 2 1/2 miles to the southward of the Chickens; it is 2 1/2 miles in length from east to west, and one mile from north to south, and has a high and remarkable double peak on its western end, somewhat resembling Bream head. 2 miles to the southward of the west end of Taranga island, is Totourou, or the Sail rock, a steep islet resembling from many points of view a fore and aft schooner.

Having passed the Hen and Chickens, the same course S.S.E. leads between Rodney point and Little Barrier island, nearly in mid-channel, and 3 miles eastward of the Flat rock. Vessels entering the Hauraki gulf from the northward should pass always inside or to the westward of Little Barrier island.

LITTLE BARRIER ISLAND (Houtourou), is a very remarkable island, 4 miles in length from north to south, and 3 1/4 from east to west, steep, and almost inaccessible; it rises 2,400 feet above the sea, and has on its summit several distinct peaks of nearly the same elevation; hence it has received the name of Mount Manypeaks; a low and remarkable stone boulder point, steep close to, forms the S.West extreme.

RODNEY POINT, which may be considered as the western entrance point of the Hauraki gulf, is bold and cliffy, and has no dangers off it; it is backed by Mount Hamilton, a remarkable wooded hill 1,300 feet high, with two round summits, bearing W.S.W. 6 miles from the point.

HAURAKI GULF. 1 --The principal entrance to the Hauraki gulf is between Rodney point and Little Barrier island, a breadth of 11 miles clear of danger. Between the Little and Great Barrier islands, (the latter an island of considerable extent, and high,) is a passage of 8 miles in width. The Horn rock lies nearly midway between them, and is the only danger, --it bears from the S.E. end of the Little Barrier E. by S. 1/2 S. 4 miles, and breaks when there is any swell.

TAKATOU POINT is S.W. by S. 6 miles from Rodney point, and has several conical rocks standing on its extremity; it is the north point of an extensive bight, which will be treated of in describing the coast and harbours hereafter.

KAWAU ISLAND is nearly 2 miles south of Takatou point; it is 4 miles in length and about the same in breadth; and until the channel between it and Takatou point is opened out, the island will appear like the continuation of the main land.

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FLAT ROCK is 2 miles to the eastward of the S.E. point of Kawau island; it is 4 feet out of the water, resembling in size and appearance the hull of a large boat, and can be seen plainly at a distance of 4 miles from a vessel's deck; it is steep-to, and may be passed on either side. Its bearings and distances are as follows:

From the S.E. point of Kawau island - - E. by N. 1/2 N. 2 miles.
" Takatou point - - - S.E. 5 1/2 miles.
" S. W. extreme of Little Barrier island S. by W. 14 1/2 miles.
" N.W. extreme of Tiri Tiri island - N. 1/4 E. 9 miles.

After passing Kawau island, the passage to Auckland may either be made eastward of Tiri Tiri island, or through the Wangaproa passage to the westward of that island, between it and the Wangaproa peninsula; if the former course is adopted, Tiri Tiri island--which is 1 1/2 miles long in a N.W. and S.E. direction, and bears S. by E. from the S.E. end of Kawau, 8 1/2 miles--should not be passed on its eastern or outer side within 2 miles, as the Shearer rock with only 2 feet on it at low water, and steep-to, lies from the east point of the island E. by N. nearly a mile distant. A white buoy marks the position of this rock, but as it is moored in 18 fathoms water, is liable to be washed away; vessels from this circumstance have struck on the rock.

WANGAPROA PASSAGE.--Should this passage be taken, it will be found perfectly safe and easy, having a clear working width of 1 1/2 miles, with from 9 to 15 fathoms depth of water. There is a rock nearly awash at low water, 3 cables lengths W. by S. from the N.W. point of Tiri Tiri island, and some rocky ledges extend for a cable's length off the points of Wangaproa peninsula; the shores therefore should not be approached too near on either side; there is also a reef awash 2 cables' lengths off the south side of the island, but this does not interfere with the navigation of either passage (see also p. 61).

From a berth 2 miles eastward of the Shearer rock, 10 1/2 miles on a S.S. W. course; or from the centre of the Wangaproa passage, the same distance on a S. 1/4 E. course, will take a vessel into the Rangitoto channel, which latter is 1 1/4 miles wide, and when in it, the mid-channel course is S.E. 2 1/2 miles to abreast the north head of Auckland harbour. From Tiri Tiri island and generally from some miles to the northward of it, Rangitoto, and the adjacent islands eastward, will be plainly seen.

RANGITOTO ISLAND cannot fail to be immediately recognized; it is circular in shape, about 3 1/2 miles in diameter, and rises gradually to a height of 920 feet, with a crater-like summit, on which are clearly to be distinguished at a distance of 7 or 8 miles, three nipples, and has this

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peculiar feature, that taken from every point of view, it presents the same appearance; it is almost bare of vegetation, the summit being composed entirely of masses of scoria; it is connected with Motu Tapu the island next to the eastward, by a sandy beach of a quarter of a mile long, dry at low water.

Several rocky ledges extend off the western shores of Rangitoto island, and should not be approached within 3 cables' lengths.

AUCKLAND HARBOUR. 2 --The north head of this harbour, and Mount Victoria, half a mile farther to the westward, are two remarkable round hills, easily distinguished at a distance of two or three leagues. Mount Victoria is 280 feet high, and has a signal and pilot station on its summit.

ROUGH ROCK, on the western side of Rangitoto channel, with 8 feet at low water, lies N. by E. three quarters of a mile from the north head of Auckland harbour and has a buoy chequered red and white on its shoal part; it may be passed on either side, but to the eastward is preferable.

Bearing E. by S. from the North head, and nearly a mile distant, are the Bean rocks, uncovered at low water, with a red perch at the extreme, and a black buoy moored off in 2 1/2 fathoms; there is no ship channel within these rocks.

The north head should not be approached nearer than a quarter of a mile, as a sandy spit extends off it. On opening out the town of Auckland, which stands on the south shore of the harbour, 2 miles from the entrance, the water deepens to 8 and 9 fathoms, and the channel, which lies in a W. by S. direction, maintains an average breadth of three quarters of a mile.

A white buoy is placed in 2 fathoms on the end of a spit which extends off Depot point on the north shore, three quarters of a mile above the North head; a white storehouse is built on this point; the marks for clearing the spit are, the cliffs of Britomart point (on which is a flagstaff,) in one with the Roman Catholic church beyond, S.W. by W.

The south shore of the harbour is flat, and mud flats and rocky patches dry at some distance off; this shore should not be approached within a third of a mile; or in beating up, tack at the first shoal cast.

Anchorage.--Merchant shipping are generally berthed by the pilot opposite Commercial Bay;--men of war should berth east of Britomart point, bringing Stanley and Onepolo points in one, and Britomart point S.W. 1/2 W. in 5 to 6 fathoms mud. The tides seldom exceed 2 knots.

The WAITEMATA river continues its westerly direction 3 miles from the town of Auckland, and is navigable for ships of large tonnage;

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one arm then branches off to the northward towards the Kaipara river, and another to the southward towards Manukau harbour: the northern arm has a deep but narrow channel, and is navigable for 2 1/2 miles, or as far as Herald island; the passage leading to Manukau is available only for large boats, and its head is separated from the waters of that harbour by a portage of about l 1/2 miles.

Should it be necessary to wait, for daylight or any other cause, to enter Auckland harbour, anchorage with southerly or westerly winds may be obtained in the bight north of Wangaproa peninsula in from 12 to 16 fathoms, or if advanced to the southward of that peninsula, anywhere between it and Rangitoto island, in from 8 to 10 fathoms. When sufficiently far south to be protected by the islands of Rangitoto, Motu Tapu, &c, safe anchorage in 6 and 7 fathoms may be had in almost any weather; and strangers are recommended to adopt this course rather than to attempt to enter the harbour at night, unless the Rangitoto shore and the North head of Auckland are plainly made out.

From AUCKLAND to the N.E. 3 --Vessels bound to the northward from Auckland will find the Rangitoto channel the safest and easiest, as well as the most direct, and the directions already given will be found sufficient. This channel is also recommended to vessels bound to the eastward, and intending to pass out of the Hauraki gulf between the Great Barrier island and cape Colville, for this reason, that after passing Rangitoto island, one course, N.N.E. 3/4 E., leads clear of everything, and direct for that passage, passing to the westward of the islands of Otatou at a distance of 2 miles, and thereby avoiding the David rocks, an extensive cluster occupying a space of 2 miles, and lying a mile to the eastward of the easternmost Otatou island, and likewise the D'Urville 4 rocks, which are 3 miles to the eastward of the David rocks.

From the westernmost Otatou island to cape Colville is N.E. 1/4 N. 22 miles; and from a berth 2 miles off that island, 24 miles on a N.N.E. 3/4 E. course will carry a vessel abreast, and to the northward of Channel islet (Takaupo), a high steep rock lying N.N.W., 3 miles from cape Colville. After passing the Channel islet, which may be done on either side, though to the northward is preferable as there is frequently a heavy swell setting on cape Colville, a ship bound to the southward should edge away E. 1/2 S., passing between Cuvier 5 island and the Haussez 6 group.

The passage between cape Colville and the south end of the Great Barrier island is 7 3/4 miles in width in its narrowest part.

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KOREHO AND HIEH CHANNELS are to the eastward of Auckland, and the former, which leads into the Hieh and Waiheki channels, lies between Rangitoto island and the mainland. With a N.W. wind, which blows directly through the Rangitoto passage, it may be sometimes convenient to pass to sea through the Hieh channel, which lies between the island of the same name and that of Motu Tapu; it is three quarters of a mile in width, and has from 8 to 15 fathoms depth of water.

Leaving Auckland harbour and passing between its North head and the Bean rocks, when in mid-channel between the two, steer N N.E., or for the peak of Rangitoto island for about half a mile, or until the marks are on for clearing a shoal of 9 feet,--at low water,--which lies in the centre of the Koreho channel: these marks are, the flag-staff on Mount Victoria in a line with the south end of the white sandy beach immediately to the northward of the north head of Auckland. Keeping these marks on, will carry a vessel to the southward of the shoal in 3 fathoms at low water: this shoal, which is chiefly mud, is 2 cables' lengths in extent; from it, the central peak of Rangitoto island bears North l 8/10 miles; North head of Auckland, S.W. by W. 1/4 W. 2 miles; Bean rock beacon, S.W. by S. 1 4/10 miles.

When the peak of Rangitoto island bears N.N.W., a course may be steered N.E. 1/2 E. for Hieh channel, passing the small island Koreho, at the distance of little more than half a mile. On the port hand, about 3 cables' lengths from the Rangitoto shore, is a patch of 5 feet, with a red and white Buoy on it.

In passing through the Hieh channel, neither the N.W. head of Hieh island nor the S.E. point of Motu Tapu should be approached within 2 cables' lengths, as there are some rocks lying off both.

When Hieh island is passed, the channel between Motu Tapu and Waiheki island increases to a width of two miles, with deep water all over, and a N.E. by N. course for 7 miles will take a vessel mid-channel between David and D'Urville rocks, at a distance of 1 1/4 miles from either; (David rocks are well above water. D'Urville rocks are covered at high water 3 feet.) There are no other dangers between, and they may be passed much closer if necessary; when clear of them, haul up N.N.E., or with a N.W. wind as high as a vessel will lie for cape Colville passage.

TEKMAKI STRAIT AND WAIHEKI CHANNEL.--The latter channel, which lies between the islands Waiheki and Ponoui, is convenient for vessels bound to Coromandel harbour, or the river Thames, from Auckland; and small vessels working up for Auckland from the eastward will have the advantage of smooth water and anchorage in the Tehmaki strait, by using it.

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From the North head of Auckland harbour, through the Koreho channel and Tehmaki strait to the Passage rock in the western entrance of the Waiheki channel, is 15 1/2 miles. Tehmaki strait, which is formed by Waiheki island on the north and the mainland on the south side, has excellent anchorage in every part, in from 4 to 6 fathoms, muddy bottom: the only deviation from these uniform soundings is a shell bank, nearly in mid channel, with 3 fathoms at low water, bearing from the north point of Clarke island (Motu Karaka) N.E. 1/2 E. 3 1/4 miles and from Maraitai point on the mainland N. b. W. 1 1/4 miles.

After having cleared the 9-feet shoal in Koreho passage as before directed, and passed the island of Koreho on its north side at half a mile distance, keep to the southward of Hieh island, and when about the same distance from it, steer E. 1/4 N. for the Passage rock, which will then be 9 miles distant.

PASSAGE AND SUNDAY ROCKS.--The former is 40 feet high, and may be passed close on either side; in a direct line between it and the northern or outer extreme of Ponoui head, nearly 1 1/4 miles from each, lies the Sunday rock, with 8 feet at low water, and marked with a black buoy: it bears from the south point of Waiheki, E. by N. 3/4 N. 9/10 of a mile; and from Thames point, (west point of Ponoui) N. by W. 1/4 W. three quarters of a mile:--There are 9 and 10 fathoms in the channel on either side of Sunday rock.

If Passage rock is passed on the north side, the shore of Waiheki island should be kept on board within 2 cables' lengths, for 1 1/2 miles after passing it, (keeping Ponoui head on the starboard bow,) until the bay south of Finger point is opened out; a vessel will then be well clear of Sunday rock.

If Passage rock is passed on the south side, a course should be steered for the point next south of Ponoui head, for 1 1/2 miles, or until Thames point bears S. by W. 1/2 W.; the channel becomes then three quarters of a mile wide, with from 6 to 12 fathoms water in it. Ponoui head should not be approached within a cable's length, as some rocks lie off it.

Between Kauri point--the N.E. point of Waiheki island--and the island of Ponoui, lie the small islands of Pakatoa and Rotaro in a north and south direction, and forming a continuation of the eastern side of the channel; to the northward of the former, and between it and Waiheki, is the fair channel out; which is a little more than half a mile in width and with a depth of 9 fathoms. The north point of Pakatoa has a reef of rocks extending nearly 2 cables off it to the northward.

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SINGLE ROCK, (above water,) in the channel, lies little more than half a mile S.W. b. W. from the south point of Pakatoa and has deep water close to; it is three quarters of a mile from the Waiheki shore; and in a line midway between it and the same point, is also a sunken rock, but vessels have no occasion to pass to the eastward of Single rock; coasters sometimes take the channel--1 1/2 cables' lengths wide--between Pakatoa and Rotaro. There is also a channel south of the latter island of the same width; and if used, the round south head of the island should be kept pretty close on board.--W. 3/4 S. of this head, half a mile distant, is a cluster of rocks awash, a cable's length in extent; vessels taking this narrow channel should pass to the southward of them.

OPOPO BAY, at the cast end of Waiheki island, is a favourite watering place; a vessel may anchor as near as convenient to the stream.

TERAKIHI ISLET.--In passing out of the Waiheki channel, this bare rocky islet will be seen, 1 1/2 miles eastward from Pakatoa; there are no dangers near; it is generally covered with cormorants.

When clear of the Waiheki channel and abreast Terakihi, a N. 3/4 W. course 23 miles, will take a vessel to the westward of Channel islet, Takaupo) and into the channel between cape Colville and the Great Barrier island.

TIDES.--On the eastern coast of the North island the flood stream runs to the northward, and the ebb to the southward, at the rate of about 1 knot; but in the Hauraki gulf, they take a contrary direction, the flood running south and the ebb north. The body of the flood stream, entering from the southward between cape Barrier and cape Colville, separates about False head on the west side of the Great Barrier island, and sweeps round to the southward, filling the Thames and Waitemata rivers through the different channels leading to Auckland. The ebb tide runs from one to 1 knots to the S.E. between Great Barrier island and cape Colville. The range of tide in the Hauraki gulf is from 4 to 10 feet.

In the Wangaproa channel the tides run from one to 2 knots; in Waiheki strait half a knot, but from 2 to 3 knots in the adjoining narrow channels.

The preceding directions will it is hoped be found sufficient, with the recent charts, to guide the mariner from the Three Kings islands to the harbour of Auckland, and to sea again by the different channels. It is proposed now to offer a particular description of the north and northeast coast of the North island, and the intermediate ports.