1856 - New Zealand Pilot - CHAPTER II. THE COAST FROM CAPE MARIA VAN DIEMEN ...FRITH OF THAMES.

       
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  1856 - New Zealand Pilot - CHAPTER II. THE COAST FROM CAPE MARIA VAN DIEMEN ...FRITH OF THAMES.
 
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CHAPTER II. THE COAST FROM CAPE MARIA VAN DIEMEN ...FRITH OF THAMES.

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CHAPTER II.

THE COAST FROM CAPE MARIA VAN DIEMEN TO CAPE BRETT, BAY OF ISLANDS--FROM CAPE BRETT TO AUCKLAND HARBOUR--THE FRITH OF THAMES.

VARIATION, 1850-54,--13 deg. to 14 deg. EAST.

FROM CAPE MARIA VAN DIEMEN TO CAPE BRETT.

The portion of the North island between cape Maria Van Diemen and the North cape, a distance of 22 miles in an E. b. N. and W. b. S. direction, has no places of shelter along its coast, which is nearly straight, the hills rising almost immediately from the sea to a height of from 700 to 1,000 feet. Although no positive dangers are known off this coast besides those which will be described, yet there seems no inducement for vessels to approach very near it, the more particularly as strong tides and currents are known to exist; vessels passing from the east side of the island to the west and the contrary, are consequently recommended to give this north coast a berth of 4 or 5 miles; at this distance off shore, soundings will be found in 30 and 40 fathoms, increasing in depth as we proceed eastward: a whirlpool is reported to have been seen in this neighbourhood, but it was not met with by H.M.S. Pandora, during her examination of the coast.

CAPE MARIA VAN DIEMEN is the N. W. extreme of the North island; it is a projection from a sandy isthmus, is about 100 feet high, and appears like an island from seaward: immediately N.W. of it is a double islet about a mile in circumference, but with no channel between.

PANDORA BANK lies 6 miles from cape Maria Van Diemen, its centre bearing from it S.S.W. 1/2 W. Five fathoms is the least water found on this hard sand bank, but the sea generally breaks on it. Immediately seaward is 20 fathoms, deepening rapidly to the westward, and 15 fathoms between the bank and the cape.

CAPE REINGA lies N. by E. 4 miles from cape Maria Van Diemen, and off it extends for 2 miles to the westward, the Columbia Reef, constantly breaking. Coasting vessels occasionally pass within this reef.

From Cape Reinga to Hooper point is E. by N. 10. miles; the coast for the first 6 miles is steep and cliffy, with hills rising to 800 or 900 feet above the sea, terminating in a sandy beach called the Spirits bay; Hooper point forming the eastern extreme; this is a cliffy point, with a rocky islet lying close off it, the land immediately over being 1,000 feet high.

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NORTH CAPE--PARENGA-RENGA HARBOUR.

TOM BOWLINE BAY, lies 6 miles farther eastward; it is the northern beach of the sandy neck which connects the North cape with the main land; whalers have found a temporary anchorage here, but it is very open and exposed.

NORTH CAPE, which is bold cliffy table-land, trends E.S.E. 2 1/2 miles, from one mile N.E. of Tom Bowline bay, and terminates in a peak 730 feet high; a small peaked islet lies off its eastern extreme, connected with it by a ledge of rocks: foul ground extends N.E. by E. from the islet one-third of a mile, with a rock only uncovered at low water at the extreme; this northern extreme of the island is a peninsula, connected with the southern portion by a sandy neck 30 miles long, and about 6 miles wide; a range of white sand hills, from 100 to 300 feet high, extends nearly along its whole length

The bays within the North cape offer anchorage in 5 to 12 fathoms in moderate westerly winds, but the back swell rounding the North cape would render them bad anchorages in strong breezes.

PARENGA-RENGA HARBOUR.--From North cape islet the coast trends South 6 miles to Kohau, or Coal point, the outer north point of Parenga-renga harbour; and which bears N.E. from the inner north point of the river. Its southern point (Fox,) is sandy and backed by low sand hills.

Parenga-renga is a bar harbour, and has a shoal sandy spit extending from either entrance point; the northern spit, runs from Coal point south-easterly for one mile, with 9 feet water on it; the southern spit extends from Fox point in an E. by N. direction, and has less than one fathom. The channel lies between these spits and is nearly a quarter of a mile in width, with 15 feet at low water, which deepens to 5 fathoms as soon as the bar is passed; this bar generally breaks, and until buoyed the deep water will be best seen from aloft.

The best directions that can be given for entering are, to bring the outer extreme of Coal point to bear N.W., and at a little more than a mile distant from it, when the depth will be 10 fathoms; when--being guided as well from aloft--a vessel should steer west, or for the inner north entrance point, until a low sandy point on the south side of the river, l 1/2 miles inside Fox point, is in line with Koti Kau, bearing W.S.W.

Kofci Kau is a cliffy point 20 feet high, nearly a mile beyond the low sandy point; this course will lead to an anchorage in 7 or 8 fathoms, 1 1/4 miles inside the entrance, close to Otehi point on the north shore; from this point the harbour branches into three creeks, the southernmost of which is the deepest.

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GREAT EXHIBITION BAY is a straight sandy beach running S.S.E., nearly 11 miles from the south point of Parenga-renga, and terminating in a cliffy point named Paxton; the soundings off this part of the coast are regular in from 12 to 16 fathoms sandy bottom at 1 and 2 miles offshore.

From Paxton point to Greville point the coast trends S.E. b. E., 7 miles; immediately to the north of the latter point is Henderson bay, a sandy beach 2 miles in extent; off this point also are two small islands-- Simmond's islands--bearing north, a half mile and one mile distant from it.

Greville point may be considered as the western point of the extensive bay of Rangaounou, which lies between it and cape Kara Kara, the N.W. extreme of Doubtless bay.

South of Greville point is a sandy bay, a mile in extent, where anchorage may be had with off-shore winds in 9 fathoms, but preferable shelter is to be found in Ohora bay, a mile to the southward. Mount Camel, an isolated hill, which rises 820 feet above the sea, lies immediately over the southern side of Ohora bay; between these two bays are two rocks awash, lying a quarter of a mile from the steep cliffy shore.

OHORA BAY is clear of dangers, and a snug good anchorage, where a vessel may ride out any westerly gale varying from north to south, in 7 to 5 fathoms. Fresh water may be obtained, and abundance of fish.

If on reaching the neighbourhood of the North cape from the south-ward, a vessel should meet with a N.W. gale; instead of contending against it she should at once proceed to Ohora bay. Mount Camel the remarkable isolated hill just mentioned, is an excellent guide, being the only eminence of that height on the coast for many miles.

OHORA RIVER.--South-westward, nearly one mile from Ohora bay, is the river of the same name, which on the approach of a N.E. gale might be entered by vessels not drawing more; than 15 feet water; to enter it, the high land on the north shore must be kept on board within half a cable's length, on a West course, until a small round islet, Motu Otuna, 1 1/2 miles inside the entrance, is seen just opening to the left of Tokoroa islet, and bearing W.N.W., which is the course in; vessels should moor well over on the north shore, soon after passing the south sandy point, with the summit of the mountain bearing N.W.

The channel in is rendered very narrow by a sand spit, which runs half a mile south-eastward from the southern point; the space for anchorage is small, and the tides run rapidly; the Ohora river should therefore be only run for under favourable circumstances, or on the approach of bad weather.

From Ohora river a straight sandy beach, backed by low sand hills, trends E. by S. 7 miles, and terminates in the western sandy entrance

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OHORA BAY.--RANGAOUNOU BAY.

point of Rangaounou or Awanui river; but as this river is better entered from the eastward, directions for approaching from cape Kara Kara, the eastern point of the bay, will be given.

CAPE KARA KARA is the north-west extreme of Doubtless bay, and the eastern point of Rangaounou bay; westward of it the Moturoa islets extend for 3 miles, with several rocks among them; deep channels exist through these islets, and between them and the main, but there are also sunken rocks in these channels, on which the sea only breaks occasionally; they should not therefore be attempted by strangers, nor indeed by any vessels but coasters.

South-west of cape Kara Kara is the sandy bay of the same name, 4 miles in extent, with 10 and 12 fathoms water across; on its southwestern point is a flat-topped hill, Puheki, 300 feet high, which is a good guide to Rangaounou, or Awanui river, being 2 1/4 miles eastward of its eastern head.

RANGAOUNOU BAY extends 12 miles from east to west, and is 6 miles in depth; across its entrance there is from 20 to 25 fathoms water, and 10 fathoms within a mile of the shore; the river Rangaounou or Awanui lies in the depth of it.

The eastern head of this river, Blackeney point, has some rocks above water, stretching half a mile to the N.W. of it--Motu Tara--and one, two-thirds of a cable off it, awash. This head bears from the outer Moturoa islet (which latter may be rounded close,) S. by W. 1/4 W., 6 1/2 miles.

South of Blackney point, little more than a mile, is Te Kotia-tia point, the inner east entrance point of the river; it has a flat-topped hill upon it; rocky patches with 6 and 9 feet water extend off this point in all directions for one third of a mile, and constitute the chief impediments to entering the anchorage; when a buoy is placed on the extremity of this shoal water, the entrance will be found easy.

From the western sandy point of the river, a sand spit extends for 2 miles in a N. by W. direction, having 12 feet on it; the outer point of this spit bears west from Te Kotia-tia point, three quarters of a mile, having 15 feet on it at low water, and with a channel between the two, of 7 fathoms.

Vessels entering Rangaounou river should pass two cables' lengths outside Motu Tara rocks, for there is a sunken rock outside those seen dry: then steer S. by W. 1/2 W., (shoaling from 7 to 3 1/2 fathoms) until about two-thirds across the entrance, or until Te Kotia-tia point bears E. 1/2 S., when immediately haul up S.E. by E. 1/2 E., and pass fully half a mile from it: when Te Kotia-tia shuts in Blackeney point, anchor in 5 to 7 fathoms, half a mile above the point; half a mile above this anchorage, the flats and narrow channels commence; coasters may go 4 miles up.

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MATAI BAY--South-eastof cape Kara Kara 5 miles distant is Knuckle point, the western entrance point of Doubtless bay. Matai bay is midway between the two, and is divided by a narrow peninsula into two inner bays, Ohunga-hunga, and Waikato; the western, Ohunga-hunga has the best anchorage, in 5 fathoms sand bottom; the eastern, Waikato, is full of rocks; in it is the native village of Orurua, where fresh water and supplies may be obtained; the hills rising behind this village are remarkably red, and will point out Matai bay.

The only danger in entering Matai bay is a rock in mid-entrance, just covered at high water, which has 25 fathoms round it, and lies little more than a mile N.N.E. 1/2 E. from the extreme of the peninsula, Joliffe point; with N.E. winds this bay has little or no protection.

ORURUA bay.--This small bay is immediately to the N.W. of Knuckle point; it has also a rock in its entrance, bearing N.N.W. little more than half a mile from the point.

DOUBTLESS BAY is 5 1/2 miles wide at its entrance, and 8 miles in depth; its S.E. point, Flat head, which has a flat-topped islet lying immediately off it, bears from Knuckle point S.E. by E. 1/2 E. 6 miles distant. When four miles within the entrance the bay opens, out to a width of nine miles, and has a sandy beach of seven miles in extent on its western side; Monganui harbour is in the S.E. corner, distant from the Flat head islet nearly five miles.

A depth of 24 fathoms will be found across the mouth of Doubtless bay, and the only dangers are the Albert rocks, and the Fairway reef, on its eastern side; the former are two rocks nearly 2 cables' lengths apart, well out of water, with 10 fathoms between them; they lie W. by S. 3/4 S. 2 1/4 miles from the Flat Head islet. Fairway reef is nearly one-third of a mile in extent, partly above water and partly awash; it lies S.W. 1/2 W. 4 miles from the Flat islet, and l 1/2 miles S.W. by S. from the Albert rocks; there is a channel of more than a mile in width between these dangers and the eastern shore of the bay, and vessels bound to Monganui harbour from the eastward always pass inside them.

MONGANUI HARBOUR 1 is more adapted for small than for large vessels, although it has afforded shelter for several whale ships together; it is 1 1/2 cables' lengths wide at the entrance, and carries an average width of nearly two cables' lengths for a distance of three quarters of a mile in a S.E. direction; it then expands into extensive mud flats, which, when the tide is out, are nearly dry, leaving a channel on both shores for boats for l 1/2 miles round Government island, which lies at the

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DOUBTLESS BAY.--MONGANUI HARBOUR.

head of the harbour: at the back of this island the land is low and swampy, with mangrove flats.

The least depth between the heads at low water is 4 fathoms, and they may be passed within fifty yards; on the hill over the south head is a signal staff; large vessels must anchor in the centre of the stream, and should moor; 4 fathoms will be found three cables' lengths within the heads, the water then shoals to 3 fathoms, and deepens again immediately above some rocks which extend above water off the north shore little more than half a mile inside the north head: these rocks narrow the width of the channel to 1 1/2 cables' lengths; above them is the best and most sheltered anchorage for a vessel going to make any stay; she should drop her anchor in 4 1/2 fathoms just after passing the rocks, and moor; two cables lengths above them the water shoals very suddenly.

Coasters may lie; in 10 feet at low water abreast White's point, but not so high up as to open out the magistrate's house, which is on the upper south point of the harbour, nearly half a mile above the rocks and one mile from the entrance. An English settler resides in the bay immediately round the boulder point on the north shore, who supplies vessels with refreshments, and will act as pilot if required. There is good anchorage outside the harbour in 6 and 7 fathoms in moderate weather.

It is high water on full and change days at 8h 15m; the range of tide from 5 to 9 feet; the tides run in the harbour from 2 to 3 knots, and with north-west winds a swell sets into the entrance.

The best time to leave Monganui harbour is early in the morning, when there is generally a land wind or a calm, in the latter case a vessel may easily tow out with her boats; the tides must of course be attended to, in entering or leaving.

In a sandy bay immediately to the westward of the harbour, coal is found in seams, but it is of very inferior quality; there is a rock above water a quarter of a mile off the west point of this bay, 1 mile from the harbour's mouth; and on either side of it, east and west, at the distance of nearly two cables' lengths, is a rock awash at low water.

TAIPA RIVER.--3 miles to the westward of Monganui harbour, is the Taipa river, navigable a short distance for large boats; it has 5 feet at the entrance at low water: there is a rock above water off the mouth with 3 fathoms on either side of it. One mile westward of Taipa river is a small rocky peninsula, and then commences the long sandy beach which extends round Doubtless bay.

FLAT HEAD. -- From Flat head islet the coast trends east, 7 miles, to the western head of Wangaroa bay.--1 mile S.E. of Flat head islet two high

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rocks lie close off the coast, and a bay runs in for some distance, but with no sheltered anchorage: the coast is then bold and cliffy. N.W. of the west head of Wangaroa bay, a quarter of a mile off shore, is a high rock, with a smaller one out of water near it; there are 17 fathoms close outside them, and in a bay two miles to the westward is a small high islet, nearly a mile from the shore; there are no dangers about these rocks, but what are visible.

WANGAROA HARBOUR AND BAY. 2--The entrance to Wangaroa harbour lies from the west head of Wangaroa bay S.E. by E. 1/2 E. 4 1/2 miles: an excellent mark for this harbour is Stephenson's island (Mahirepua), which lies in a N.W. and S.E. direction, is 1 1/2 miles in length, and half a mile in width at its southern end; the S.E. extreme bears from the entrance of the harbour N.N.E. 2 1/2 miles: it is high, and tapers away gradually towards its N.W. extreme, where it is nearly divided; it has two bays on its western side, and off the S.W. point are two rocks out of water. This island affords considerable shelter to Wangaroa bay; anchorage can be obtained in 9 and 11 fathoms anywhere between it and the shore, and good shelter with any winds that would prevent a vessel entering the harbour. The land about the entrance of Wangaroa harbour is high, with steep cliffy shores, particularly on the western side.

False Head, a remarkable straight bluff, is one mile to the westward of the entrance, and has two or three high rocks standing off it.

The entrance to the harbour is through a narrow channel, one-third of a mile in length, in a N.E. and S.W. direction, the least width being about 250 yards: the shores are high and steep on either side, and may be approached boldly, there being 9 and 10 fathoms close to the cliffs. The tides in the entrance run from 2 to 3 knots, and the wind is always baffling, unless blowing directly in or out: small vessels may easily work through with the tide;, but the sea breeze, which is generally regular, blows directly through the passage, and large vessels should wait at anchor outside for it.

Wangaroa is an excellent harbour when inside: the average width of its main branch, which runs in for more than 2 miles, is about a third of a mile; but there are three bays on the eastern side which afford good anchorage, nearly out of the tide, the two outer ones in 6 and 7 fathoms: the most convenient anchorage however, is in Kaouou bay on the western side of the harbour, immediately inside the entrance.

KAOUOU bay.--There are two rocks in this bay nearly awash at high water; they are a cable's length apart, with 9 fathoms between and deep

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WANGAROA HARBOUR.

water all round: the outer one bears from the inner western entrance point, which is a small rocky peninsula, W. by S. 1/2 S., nearly 4 cables' lengths, and from Middle head, which is the south head of Kaouou bay, N.W. by N, the same distance; these rocks may be passed on either side; but it is recommended, after passing the rocky peninsula just mentioned, to steer to pass on their south side half a cable's length, anchoring in 5 fathoms, 2 cables' lengths above them: this will be found an excellent anchorage, quite out of the tide, and free from the eddies and irregular tides which prevail in almost every other part of the harbour, and which, together with the baffling winds, render the entrance to the bays on the eastern side frequently difficult and tedious for a sailing vessel.

A shoal sand patch of 15 feet, extends off Middle head nearly 2 cables' lengths to the northward, but there is plenty of room for the largest ships between it and the two rocks described. H.M.S. Havannah, and several of H.M. ships on the Australian station, have anchored in this bay; a vessel may anchor outside the two rocks, if convenient in 7 or 8 fathoms, but she will scarcely be out of the influence of the tide or a swell which generally sets in through the entrance with a strong N.E. wind.

Vessels leaving Wangaroa harbour should choose the early morning, as there is generally a light land wind or calm at that time; in the latter case no difficulty will be found, if the boats are ahead, to keep the ship's head in the proper direction; taking advantage of the tide.

The land round the harbour, except at the head, is high and steep; deep fissures penetrate the coast, and high cubical masses of rock are piled one above the other to a height of several hundred feet; this is particularly the case at the head of Kaouou bay.

Peach island, a high remarkable looking island, lies in the centre of the harbour half a mile from the entrance, at the entrance of Owanga bay on the east side; there is deep water all round it.

The most remarkable objects in this singular harbour are two cupola-shaped hills, Mounts St. Peter and St. Paul; they lie on opposite sides of the harbour, 2 miles from the entrance. St. Paul, on the eastern shore, is a striking feature, resembling the dome of that cathedral, hence its name; the water at the head of the harbour within the line of this mount is shallow, and mud flats dry for a mile off the shores.

Several tide creeks among mangrove bushes, extend for some distance inland, navigable for boats, and leading to the kauri forests.

On the west side at the head of the harbour, is the French Roman Catholic mission establishment; vegetables and fruit, including grapes, peaches, &c. are cultivated here to a considerable extent, and with much success; fresh water may be had from the streams in any of the bays.

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WEST BAY.--Independent of the anchorage which may be obtained outside the heads, by vessels waiting to enter or for other causes; shelter from westerly winds will be found in West bay, one third of a mile off the Sandy beach in 5 fathoms; within that distance the water is shallow:-- this bay is a mile to the westward of the False head of Wangaroa; there is another sandy bight a mile to the N.W. of it, with a flat rock (Kava islet,) 2 cables' lengths off the shore, having a depth of 5 and 6 fathoms between.

Eastward of the entrance of Wangaroa harbour one mile, is a small river navigable for boats, off its west sandy point, a reef of rocks out of water extends a quarter of a mile: nearly a mile farther eastward are the Arrow rocks high out of water, with straggling rocks around them; they extend in a N.W. direction half a mile from the shore, and should be given a berth of the same distance, as the tides sweep with some strength between Stephenson's island and the main: nearly a mile again eastward is the eastern point of Wangaroa bay, with an islet lying close off it.

It is high water in Wangaroa harbour on the full and change days at 8h 15m; the springs range 7 feet; the flood stream on the coast sots to the. westward, and the ebb to the eastward.

FLAT ISLAND is the next remarkable object eastward of Wangaroa bay; it is a low bare island, E. by N., nearly 4 miles from Stephenson's island, and is immediately off the point of a bay; it is half a mile in length from north to south, and although its outer extreme has the appearance of a shelving point, it may be passed within 2 cables' lengths in 20 fathoms.

CAVALLI ISLANDS.--Eastward of Flat island, 4 miles distant, is an extensive group of small islands, occupying a space of nearly 5 miles from north to south, and more than 2 miles from east to west.

The centre island or Great Cavalli, is nearly 2 miles in length north and south and 1 mile from east to west; around, its north and east sides, within a radius of 1 1/2 miles, are dispersed ten small islets, high, and having several rocks scattered among them, particularly on the east side; there are soundings 20 fathoms half a mile outside this group: off the western side of the Great island a quarter of a mile, is a rock high above the water.

The island next in size lies S.E. of Great Cavalli nearly a mile; it is a very remarkable steep rocky island, a mile long east and west; its summit rises in regular steps, and from this circumstance it has been called Step island: between Step island and Great Cavalli is a cluster of rocks above water, and one sunken, with no safe passage between.

CAVALLI PASSAGE is the channel between this group and the main land: in its narrowest part which is abreast Step island, the width is more

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CAVALLI ISLANDS.--BAY OF ISLANDS.

than half a mile, and the least depth 17 feet at low water: in the centre of the channel between Great Cavalli and the main land, is a rock nearly awash at high water, and almost always breaking: this rock lies from the S.W. end of Great Cavalli S.S.W, half a mile, and the same distance from the main, and may be passed on either side in 6 and 7 fathoms: this is a safe passage for small vessels, and coasters always take it.

In fine weather, anchorage may be had for small vessels in the sandy bay on the south side of Great Cavalli, sheltered by some rocks which extend off its western point, and also in Matauri bay on the main land immediately westward of Step island, where there is a native village.

TAKO BAY.--From here the coast trends S.E. round Tako bay 8 miles to Ngatoka Rarangui point, which has a high hill rising over it, and three rocks, the Needles, lying a short distance off; to the westward of the point nearly a mile, is a small islet; there are no clangers in Tako bay, except a rock out of water, 4 miles westward of the point, nearly half a mile off shore, neither is there any sheltered anchorage; at the distance of a mile off shore there are 13 and 14 fathoms. E.S.E., 3 1/2 miles from Ngatoka Rarangui point, is cape Wiwiki, the western cape of the Bay of Islands.

BAY OF ISLANDS. 3--This extensive bay or gulf is comprised between capes Wiwiki and Brett, and is 11 miles wide at its entrance; a peninsula 3 miles in length, extending in a N.W. direction from about the centre of the bay, may be said to divide it into two distinct portions.

In the western, are Port Tepuna and the Keri-Keri river; further south, and on the western side of the peninsula just mentioned, is Kororarika bay, the principal and best known anchorage, with a flagstaff erected on the hill which overlooks it; and above this bay again, the rivers Kaua-Kaua and Wai-Kari, which run for a considerable distance to the southward and eastward; the eastern branch communicating within a short distance of the harbour of Wangaruru, on the east coast. In the eastern portion of the bay are the numerous islands from which the name is derived; these, together with the peninsulas that cut up its southern coast, afford many good and secure anchorages.

The depth of water within the line of the outer capes does not exceed 40 fathoms, and there are few dangers that do not show themselves.

The western portion of this extensive bay, commencing at cape Wiwiki, will be the first described.

CAPE WIWIKI.--This cape which forms the western entrance point of the bay, is a steep bold headland, its summit Mount Pocock, being 843 feet

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high: it is a dark coloured mountain rising abruptly on its northern and eastern sides, with the southern slopes well wooded nearly to the summit.

GALAKEK island.--Immediately off cape Wiwiki, scarcely half a cable's length distant, is Motu Galakek, a small island of moderate height, with a rock above water a cable's length north of its eastern end.

THE NINE PIN, (Tiki Tiki,) a high black pinnacle rock, lies half a mile N.E. of this island, with a passage between 3 cables' lengths in width, and 12 fathoms water: this isolated and very remarkable rock is an excellent guide for a stranger, and may be distinctly seen from a distance of 12 miles.

One mile southward of cape Wiwiki is Howe point, and midway from the coast between them, projects a high round topped cliffy peninsula, connected with it by a low neck:--between Howe point and the island Motu Roa, the latter situated 2 miles south of the former, is the passage to the western anchorages of Port Tepuna and the Keri Keri river.

MOTU-ROA is a long narrow island, lying in an east and west direction, and extending off Toke Toke point on the main land, 1 3/4 miles; it is 220 feet high, and the channel known as Kent passage between its western extreme and the point is 2 cables' lengths wide, with 7 feet at low water.

Off the northern and eastern ends of Motu Roa lie the Black rocks, so called from their colour; they are a remarkable group of smooth flat-topped rocks, about 15 feet high, steep and with no dangers about them.

TEPUNA or RANGIHOUA bay.--S.W. from Howe point, a quarter of a mile, is a small rock above water; and 1 1/2 miles westward of the point is Tepuna or Rangihoua bay; here the first missionary station was established in New Zealand, and there are still the houses of settlers; there is anchorage in this bay in 5 and 6 fathoms, sandy bottom, but it is open to easterly winds.

TEPAHI ISLANDS.--Immediately to the westward of Rangihoua bay are the Tepahi islands, four ragged looking islands, with shoal water between: a round rock, well out of water and nearly 2 cables' lengths in circumference, lies half a mile to the eastward of them; and between this rock and the west point of Rangihoua bay, a quarter of a mile from either, is a sunken rock which breaks at low water.

PORAE NUI point, three quarters of a mile to the S.W. of the Tepahi islands, is a long projecting point with an isolated hummock on its extreme, on which stands a remarkable tree: this point is 3 miles to the S.W. of Howe point, and is the northern entrance point to the western anchorages; Toke Toke point, which bears from it S.S.E. 1 mile, and has a white sandy beach at its extreme, forming the southern.

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BAY OF ISLANDS.

From Howe point to this entrance there is a good working channel of nearly a mile in width in the narrowest part: the Tepahi islands on the north shore and the Black rocks on the south may be approached close, and there is anchorage between them if necessary in 9 fathoms.

ONSLOW OR HOWE ROCK.--The only danger to be avoided is the Onslow or Howe rock, which lies in the outer entrance, between Howe point and the Black rocks: it has 17 feet on it at low water, and is a perfect pinnacle, with 15 fathoms close to; this rock lies S.S.E. seven tenths of a mile from Howe point; when on it, the extreme of the projecting peninsula, midway between that point and cape Wiwiki, is in a line with the low western neck of Galakek island, bearing N. 1/2 W., and the extreme of Porae nui point bearing S.W. by W. 1/2 W., is seen just to the northward of the north end of Cocked Hat island, a low triangular shaped island, three quarters of a mile beyond it.

There is a passage of nearly three quarters of a mile wide between Howe point and this rock, with 16 fathoms water, and the point may be passed as close as is convenient; for a mid-channel course between, bring the outer extreme of the S.W. or outer Tepahi island, in line with the hummock on Porae nui point, and steer for them until Howe point is on with the Nine Pin, when a vessel will be well to the westward of Onslow rock.

If it is intended to pass to the southward, between it and the Black rocks, the west end of Galakek island should be kept open of the peninsula before mentioned, until the south extreme of the outer Tepahi island bears W. by S.; this will lead a quarter of a mile to the southward of the rock, and a course may be steered up the passage for Porae nui point.

When abreast Porae-nui point, Port Te-puna runs to the W.N.W., its entrance being between it and the middle point, which latter is W. by S. three quarters of a mile from Porae-nui; the Keri Keri river taking a westerly direction, and having the low stony triangular Cocked Hat island lying in the centre of its entrance.

The BROTHERS, and SLAINS CASTLE ROCKS are between Porae-nui point and Cocked hat island, rendering the approach with a working wind, somewhat difficult for large vessels; the Brothers are two rocks more than half a cable's length apart, awash or breaking, and are consequently easily avoided; they lie S. by W. from Porae-nui point, the northernmost rock being 2 cables' lengths distant from it, with a rocky patch of 17 feet extending half a cable to the northward.

The Slains Castle rock is sunken and dangerous; it lies W. 3/4 N., a quarter of a mile from the centre of the Brothers, in a line between them and the Middle point, and S.W. by W., 4 cables' lengths from Porae-

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nui point, in a line between it and the north end of Cocked Hat island; it is more than half a cables' lengths in extent, and the least depth on it is 8 feet at low water. Vessels entering Port Tepuna from the eastward with a leading wind should pass between Porae nui point and the north Brother, half a cable's length from the point in 5 fathoms; and by steering to the northward of the Middle point, the Slains Castle rock will be avoided; between the Brothers rocks and it there is a passage of 2 cables' length broad, but it is not advisable for a large vessel to take.

The widest channel, which is 4 cables' length broad, is between the Slains Castle rock and the Middle point; vessels entering Port Tepuna or the Keri-Keri by this channel should pass to the southward of the south Brother rock about a cable's length and when abreast of it steer west, or for the first point on the north shore of the Keri-Keri river above the Middle point, which is a short half mile distant from it, and will be readily known, being a small high rocky peninsula; when the Middle point bears N.W. 1/2 W. the rock is well passed, and a vessel may haul up N.N. W. for Port Tepuna, or continue her course for the Keri-Keri river; in the latter case, she must anchor about a quarter of a mile above the peninsula point just mentioned, in 5 or 6 fathoms mud, off the mouth of a deep cove; above this cove the water shoals rapidly; there is a rocky patch of 16 feet, extending 1 1/2 cables' lengths to the north-eastward of the eastern low point of Cocked Hat island, but the west course given will clear it well.

PORT TEPUNA is a spacious and well sheltered anchorage, though rather shallow for vessels of large tonnage to (inter far; it is more than half a mile in width at the entrance, and a short distance within expands to a mile: at Separation point, 1 1/2 miles N.W. from the entrance, the harbour divides into two arms, the Poukourou river running to the northward two miles, and what has been called the Monga-nui river--but in reality only a creek terminating in a shallow round mangrove beach, three miles above Separation point,--continuing the direction of the main channel W.N.W.; both are shallow, carrying 6 feet at low water nearly to their heads.

The deepest water in Port Tepuna is on the southern shore, where there are 5 and 6 fathoms for half a mile above the Middle point, 4 fathoms more than a mile above, and again for another mile, above 3 fathoms at low water. There are also two snug bays 1 1/2 and 2 miles above Middle point, where coasters may anchor in 12 feet at low water; off the point which separates these bays, three rocks above water extend for a cable's length; fresh water is to be procured in streams at their heads.

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BAY OF ISLANDS.

On the north shore of Port Tepuna the water is shoal for a short distance above the Middle point; and from Pah point, a high point with the remains of a pah on it, l 1/4 miles above Porae-nui point, rocky ground with 11 feet at low water extends S.S.W, half a mile, leaving a channel of little more than 3 cables' lengths broad between its edge and the south shore; when Pah point bears N.E., the shoal is cleared, and there are 3 1/2 fathoms close up to the point.

A rock awash at low water lies W. by S. from Separation point, and a mile above it are two patches of rocks always out of water.

RIVER KERI-KERI, although apparently an extensive sheet of water, is only navigable for boats above the anchorage just mentioned, that is, three quarters of a mile above the Cocked hat island, and 1 1/2 cables' lengths from the north shore, in 5 fathoms mud; there is no channel southward of the island, and at low water extensive flats and large stony patches are uncovered; boats can go 5 miles above the entrance, when further navigation is stopped by the falls: at low water, the best boat channel is along the north shore.

Coasters pass through the Kent passage; and in the bay to the westward, between it and Cocked hat island, there is anchorage in 7 fathoms.

TAPEKA POINT.--From the easternmost Black rock, Tapeka point, the northern extreme of the Kororarika peninsula bears S.S.E. nearly 2 miles; several detached rocks well out of water, and on which there is generally a break, extend for nearly a quarter of a mile from it; they are all visible, and may be passed within half a cable's length in 6 fathoms.

Between Tapeka and Manawaroroa points, which latter is directly west of the former, 1 3/4 miles distant, is the entrance to Kororarika, and the southern anchorages; this entrance, however, is contracted to little more than half that width, by the Brampton or Favourite bank, which extends more than three quarters of a mile off Manawaroroa point.

MANAWAROROA POINT, or more properly speaking flat, for it occupies an extent of three quarters of a mile north and south, is a low and shelving projection, composed of rocks and swampy ground which dries a quarter of a mile from the shore at low water.

BRAMPTON or FAVOURITE BANK.--The southern limit of this bank commences at the south point of Hume creek, which is 3 cables' length south of the southern part of Manawaroroa, and its northern at more than half a mile from the north end of the flat; thus its base occupies an extent of a mile and a half, and the bank terminates in a point three quarters of a mile eastward of the centre part of it from low water mark. The depth of water is from 6 to 15 feet, and it shoals suddenly from 5 fathoms to the

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latter depth; in strong northerly or easterly winds the sea breaks heavily on it, with a long rolling surf; this bank offers no difficulties whatever in entering or leaving the port with a leading wind, as there is a clear channel of three quarters of a mile in the narrowest part between it and Tapeka point.

The outer extreme of the easternmost Black rock, in a line with the Nine Pin, bearing N. 3/4 E., leads directly on the tail of the bank, and the extreme of the Black rock in a line with the outer extreme of Motu Galakek clears it 1 1/2 cables' length outside in 6 fathoms.

KORORARIKI BAY and ANCHORAGE.--A vessel entering with a leading wind should keep a quarter of a mile outside the rocks off Tapeka point,--as also the point next to it,--and Kororarika point, as off these points, rocks lie scattered above water; on passing the latter point, the town will open out, and the best anchorage is in the centre of the bay in 4 fathoms mud, with the rocks off Kororarika point bearing N.W. 1/4 N., and the western end of Motu-roa island well open of them; With Motu-roa island shut in, there is only l5 feet water.

OBSERVATORY ISLET.--Off the south point of Kororarika bay is the small rocky islet Kairaro, or Observatory islet, it is 60 feet in height. This islet can be advantageously used as a leading mark to clear the Brampton bank.

Working up for Kororarika anchorage, a vessel may stand to the westward without fear until Observatory islet is just opened out to the southward of Kororarika point, when she will be in not less than 6 fathoms, and must tack to the eastward; this turning mark will hold good until the outer rock off Tapeka point is in a line with the south-west point of Motu Arohia, bearing E.N.E. (Motu Arohia is the first island eastward of Tapeka point, distant nearly 2 miles); when these marks are on, then the clearing marks to the northward must be taken up; that is, the outer extreme of the outer Black rock must not be brought to the eastward of the outer extreme of Motu Galakek, which will clear a vessel 1 1/2 cables' lengths of Brampton bank in 6 fathoms.

HERMIONE ROCK is another danger which must be avoided in working up; it is a patch with 2 feet water on it at low springs and which very rarely breaks; from it Mr. Busby's house, a prominent object on the north side of Waitangi river, bears S.W. by W., and it lies from the north end of Motu Mea island, N.W. by N. half a mile; from Kororarika point, S.W. by W. 1/4 W., 1 1/10 miles, and off shore 4 cables' lengths. The marks which clear the Brampton shoal would lead very close on this rock; the outer Black rock must therefore, not be brought outside, or to the east-

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ward of the centre of Galakek island, when approaching the neighbourhood of the Hermione rock.

MOTU MEA ISLAND.--A narrow island one-third of a mile in length, lies off the entrance of the Waitangi river; it is connected with the main by a ridge extending from its southern extreme, nearly dry at low water, but having a boat channel close to the shore; it has also shoal water, extending more than a cable's length to the eastward, and a reef of rocks 1 1/2 cables' lengths off its north end, the outer ones of which are covered.

WAITANGI RIVER is S.W. 1 1/2 miles from Kororarika point; small vessels enter this river, and they must either pass between Hermione rock and the shore; in 3 1/2 fathoms, or between the rock and Motu Mea; in the latter case, Mr. Busby's house in line with a remarkable one-tree hill, 1 3/4 miles to the westward of the house inland, leads between in mid-channel in 3 1/2 fathoms, when the river may be steered for; a store-house stands on the north point, and from the latter a boulder spit runs half a cable's length dry at low water; 5 feet is the least water at the entrance at low springs, and 12 feet inside; vessels can proceed a very short distance up; with strong N.E. winds a swell sets into the river.

PAIHIA village, (the Church mission station,) is in a sandy bay to the southward of Motu Mea. There is no good anchorage in the bay, as the water shoals for a considerable distance, and it is exposed to northerly winds; the lights of Paihia village at night will be found a guide to clear the Brampton shoal; when they are seen to the eastward of Motu Mea, a vessel is to the eastward of the tail of the bank; to the northward of Manawaroroa point however they would not be available, as a vessel may stand far enough to the westward to open them out westward of the island.

The small island Motu Arahi, or Paihia islet, lies about a cable's length off the south point of Paihia Bay, and on the opposite shore is Tore Tore peninsula; the distance between these two points is 4 cables' lengths, and they may be said to be the entrance points to the upper anchorages.

TORE TORE PENINSULA is two cables long in an east and west direction, and is connected with the main land by a narrow rocky neck, which at high water springs is covered; its extreme point is S. by W. 1/4 W., one mile from Observatory islet. Pomare bay, the deep bight running to the S.E. between Kororarika and this peninsula, has from 10 to 16 feet water in it.

WAHAPU BAY.--On the eastern shore above Tore Tore peninsula are two deep bights, Wahapu and Pipi-roa. The former, which is immediately round the peninsula, is the military station of the district, and

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there is anchorage off the barracks for vessels drawing 8 feet; the latter is a shoal double bay; the south point, Okiato, will be known by a large wooden house being built over it.

From Tore Tore to Tapu point, the north entrance point of the rivers, or more properly speaking the inlets of Waikari and Kaua-Kaua, is 1 3/4 miles in a S.E. by S. direction, with a narrow but deep channel.

A cable's length outside a line drawn from Tore Tore extreme to this point is the limit of shoal water on the eastern side of the channel; its western edge is defined by a line drawn from the outer point of Motu Arahi to the point opposite; Okiato house; inside this line on the western shore, sand banks dry at low water, and the bank is very steep, shoaling from 7 fathoms to a few feet. This channel is nearly two cables wide, with a depth of from 6 to 9 fathoms, and the edges of the banks may generally be distinguished by the tide line; on the western shore, immediately opposite to Okiato House, is an excellent watering place.

WAIKARI RIVER.--Tapu point, the northern entrance point of the inlets, is a rounding flat-topped, grassy point, of peninsula formation; the distance between it and the southern entrance point being a quarter of a mile, with 11 fathoms water between them; from here the Waikari turns to the eastward for 2 1/2 miles, being navigable for coasters for that distance, when there is a small island lying in the middle of the stream. From this island it runs E.S.E. 2 miles towards the harbour of Wangaruru on the east coast, and is navigable for boats for that distance. On entering Waikari river the small round islet of the same name will be seen on the southern shore off Pomare's pah, E.S.E., half mile from Tapu point.

ANCHORAGE.--Ships may anchor a quarter of a mile above Waikari islet, in 5 fathoms, about a, cable's length off the Pah point; a deep bight runs to the southward for a mile, immediately to the eastward of this point, but within the line of its entrance points there are only 3 feet at low water.

KAUA-KAUA river is very shallow, and only fit for boat navigation; southward of a line from Waikari islet to its western entrance point there are only 9 feet; it runs to the southward for 3 miles, and is navigable or boats at high water for that distance, when it branches off to the S.E. and S.W., and is lost in the mangrove swamps.

BANK OFF KORORARIKA.--To the southward of a line from the south end of Kororarika bay, to Mr. Busby's house on the opposite shore at Waitangi, the water shoals to 3 1/2 fathoms; and there is also a bank, with 16 feet at low water, lying between Kororarika bay and Tore Tore

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BAY OF ISLANDS.

point. A vessel bound above Kororarika, without touching there, and drawing more than 16 feet water, should pass Kororarika point at a distance of a quarter of a mile, and then steer S. by E. for the eastern end of Paihia islet until the north end of Motu Mea is in one with Mr. Busby's house, bearing W. by N., which will not take her into less than 20 feet at low water; when these marks are on, she should steer S.S.E. 1/4 E., or mid-channel between Tore Tore peninsula and Paihia islet, when the water will shortly deepen to 6 and 9 fathoms, and this course will lead mid-channel nearly to Okiato point, when the shores are bold on either side.

A vessel of the same draught, leaving Kororarika for the upper anchorages, to avoid the l6-feet bank, should steer for the south end of Motu Mea, until the north end of that island is in one with the storehouse on the north entrance point of Waitangi river, bearing W. by S.; she may then steer the course before directed, between Tore Tore peninsula and Paihia islet; a direct course from the anchorage at Kororarika, for this entrance, leads over the outer part of the shoal in 17 feet at low water.

KORORARIKA. is the only place in the Bay of Islands at present of any commercial importance, and ships requiring supplies must proceed to this anchorage; a resident magistrate, as well as several European settlers, are established here. Vessels requiring refit may obtain almost any stores they may stand in need of, in addition to live stock, provisions, and refreshments. Water may be had from a stream at the north end of the bay, but not so good, and with less facility, than at the stream before mentioned above the Tore Tore peninsula. Oysters abound on the rocks, below high water mark, in all parts of the bay, except in the immediate neighbourhood of the settlements, and indeed on the whole extent of the east coast as far south as Auckland.

Numerous whaling vessels resorted to the Bay of Islands for refreshments and supplies before the regular colonization of the islands, but since then, their visits have declined considerably; the establishment of Customs' officers, and the prohibitory laws with regard to exchange with the natives, may be assigned as the chief causes.

The eastern portion of the Bay of Islands, which has now to be described, is included between Tapeka point and cape Brett, a distance of 11 miles, in a N.E. by E. and S.W. by W. direction: the part however, which is sheltered by the islands, and available for anchorage, extends only 6 miles eastward of Tapeka point, the remaining distance of 5 miles being a steep cliffy indented coast, without shelter as far as cape Brett.

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The RAWITI.--The extensive sheet of water included between the islands and the main land is called the Rawiti. The islands which constitute its northern boundary are six in number, besides several smaller islets and rocks; their greatest length, which is generally in a N.W. and S.E. direction, varying from three quarters to 1 1/4 miles.

The southern shore of the main land is cut up into deep and extensive bays and creeks, formed by the curiously shaped peninsulas, which are so characteristic a feature of New Zealand, and they afford excellent anchorages for vessels of moderate draught. The Rawiti itself is capable of containing and affording good shelter to any number of ships of the largest tonnage; still it is not without its shoals, and a due attention to the chart will be required to avoid them.

The western entrance is between Tapeka point and Motu Arohia, the western island, and is more than 1 1/2 miles in width, with a depth of 14 fathoms.

The Eastern or Albert channel is between Orupukupuka the eastern island and Richards peninsula, its width being not more than a quarter of a mile; small vessels rounding cape Brett with a scant wind from N.W. avail themselves of this passage, as they can obtain anchorage when inside it, or work up in smooth water:--vessels in distress have also entered under the same circumstances; the Hope whaler, which struck on a reef on the north side of the channel (since named after her) ran through it into the Rawiti; this channel, however, is not fit for a large vessel; the ground is foul and irregular, and two rocky patches of 15 and 16 feet lie in the centre of the entrance, there is also, frequently a heavy swell setting in to it.

KAWITI ISLAND PASSAGES.--There are two passages into the Rawiti, between the islands, which may be run for if necessary by observing the following directions: between Motu Arohia, a narrow island, a mile long east and west, and Motu Rua, the island east of it, there is a passage of half a mile in width; there is a rock in this passage which is always visible, lying 1 1/2 cables' lengths off the west end of Motu Rua; a vessel entering the Rawiti by this channel should pass just to the eastward of this rock in 7 fathoms, and by keeping between a quarter and half a mile distant off the west side of Motu Rua, she will not get less than 5 fathoms, and will shortly deepen to 9; by keeping this distance from the island she will pass to the eastward of a small patch of 17 feet at low water, which lies nearly three quarters of a mile S.W. of its south point and which will be noticed hereafter; two steep cliffy islets and a large rock above water lie off the N.W. end of Motu Rua, but they are free from dangers.

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BAY OF ISLANDS.

The next island eastward of Motu Rua, and a quarter of a mile distant from it, is Keke; it is the smallest of the group, being seven tenths of a mile long N.W. and S.E., and scarcely a quarter of a mile in width; there is no channel for a vessel between these two islands, and a small islet lying across the northern entrance narrows its width to a cable's length, with only a few feet of water.

ORUPUKUPUKA, the largest and the easternmost island of the group, lies a third of a mile eastward of Keke island; three rocks above water extend off its western point, and there are two sandy bays on the west side of the island with shoal water; its S.E. extreme is the northern entrance point of the Eastern or Albert channel.

The islands Otawaki, and Okahi or Red island, lie to the N.W. of and in a line with Orupukupuka, there being boat channels of a cable's length between them. Okahi is the northernmost island of the group; it has a steep rocky islet lying close off its S.W. point, and its northern side is a precipitous cliff with a round red summit known as the Red head, and which will be immediately recognized on rounding cape Brett; some rocky islets extend more than a cable's length off this head, and a little more than half a mile from it is the Whale rock.

The WHALE ROCK is the only danger in entering the Bay of Islands from the eastward; this rock generally breaks at low springs, or when there is any sea. There is a clear passage of 4 cables' lengths with 12 fathoms water between it and Red head, from which it bears N. W. by W. 1/2 W. half a mile.

The second island passage is between Okahi, or Red island, and Keke. For a mile within Red island, or as far as the west end of Orupukupuka, there is a channel of half a mile in width, with 9 fathoms in the centre, and not less than 3 1/2 fathoms close to the shore on either side. The western end of Orupukupuka, with the three rocks off it, narrows the channel to little more than 3 cables' lengths, when the water shoals to 4 1/2 fathoms; after passing this point nearly half a mile, there is a belt of the width of 2 cables' lengths to be crossed, with 16 feet on it at low water, when a vessel will be fairly in the Rawiti in 7 fathoms.

To enter this passage a mid-channel course should be steered between the islands, until abreast of three large flat rocks off the S.E. end of Keke island (which course will be S.E. 1/2 E. 1 1/2 miles), or direct for the northern end of Poro island, which lies in the southern entrance of the channel; pass the easternmost of these three rocks at a distance of 2 cables' lengths, and when it bears west there will be 16 feet at low

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water, on the northern edge of the belt. Steer then south for a quarter of a mile, when it will be passed; and if bound to the westward a course may be steered accordingly; if to the eastward, or for any of the anchorages on the southern shore, it must be remembered that a shoal of 9 feet at low water, with a sunken rock almost awash at its extreme, extends half a mile south from the N.W. end of Poro island; vessels will scarcely have occasion to enter these island passages unless with a leading wind, when both will be found easy.

A general description of the different channels which lead into the Rawiti from seaward having now been given, it will be necessary to point out the dangers to be avoided within, and to describe the anchorages on its southern shores, commencing from the westward. This extensive sheet of water, as has been before observed, has anchorage all over it; the general depth is from 6 to 9 fathoms, with good holding ground.

CAPSTAN ROCK.--The first danger eastward of Tapeka point is the Capstan rock (Outou Rodi). The natives assert that this rock was not long since awash, and that they have grounded their canoes on it to fish; in this case, its head must have been washed off by the sea, which is not improbable, as the bottom in the shoal places is of coral formation; it is now a mere point, with the least depth on it at low water 12 feet, and 7 fathoms close round; the position of this rock is little more than a half a mile from the centre of Honiroa beach; it bears from Tapeka point E. b. S. 1 1/4 miles, and is exactly in a line between it and the east point of Paroa bay (Kahuwera point); from the S. W. end of Motu Arohia it is S. b. W. 3/4 W. 1 1/10 miles, and from the west point of Honiroa bay N. E. by E. 1/2 E. six-tenths of a mile.

PAROA BAY is 2 3/4 miles eastward of Tapeka point; it is half a milewide at the entrance, runs to the S.E. for a mile, and has 17 feet at low water just within the entrance points; this is a small vessel anchorage, and is not well protected from N.W. winds; the best shelter is in 9 feet at low water on the west side of the bay.

MANAWARA--Immediately eastward of Paroa bay, and only separated from it by the narrow peninsula of the same name, is Manawara bay; it runs to the south-eastward for 2 miles, terminating in Clendon cove, which has only 10 feet water a short distance within the entrance; there are also two bays on its eastern side, in both of which there is anchorage for small vessels.

The entrance to Manawara bay is three quarters of a mile wide, and is formed by two peninsulas; that of Paroa on the western side, and on the

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BAY OF ISLANDS.

eastern by the Native peninsula; off the point of the hitter is Bateman island with rocks between and no passage. There is an extensive shoal extending fro in the western entrance of Manawara to the north-west, or directly towards the sandy bay at the eastern end of Motu Arohia for a distance of one mile; the least depth on it at low water is 13 feet, except on one small patch of 7 feet, which lies S.W. 1/2 W. half a mile from the north-west end of Bateman island, or with the high summit of Mosquito point seen over the centre of that island bearing N.E. by E. 1/2 E.-- vessels drawing not more than 11 feet, by avoiding this one patch, which they may easily do by passing within a quarter of a mile of the west head of the bay, may run into Manawara bay at any time of tide, and anchor in either of the coves; Oraukaua the north-eastern cove is the best, and has 3 1/4 fathoms at low water well within it; the middle cove has 14 feet within a reef of rocks which extend off its north shore; and Clendon cove abreast its entrance points has 15 feet; coasters can go higher up.

A vessel drawing 17 feet may enter Manawara at low water, by passing to the northward of the tail of the shoal, and taking the narrow passage on the eastern side of the bay, as follows: coming from the westward, steer along the south side of Motu Arohia at a distance of half a mile, (for a coral bank with 14 feet at low water extends more than a quarter of a mile south of its central part,) until its eastern end bears N.W. by N, then steer S.E. by S. or to pass half a cable's length off the north-west low extreme of Bateman island; continue on this course for a distance of four cables after passing the extreme, or until the Knob, or north-west point of Oraukaua bay, is on with the sandy beach of Opuna cove bearing E. 1/4 N., when, haul up to pass the Knob point at the distance of half a cable in 5 fathoms; as soon as the point is passed, haul in and anchor a quarter of a mile within it in 3 1/2 fathoms at low water,-- or anchorage may be had in 5 fathoms nearly 3 cables' lengths S.E. of the Knob point if required, though not so well sheltered.

In passing through the Kawiti to the eastward, the marks for clearing the tail of the shoal off Manawara bay are, to keep the islet point which is nearly a mile eastward of Mosquito point just open to the northward of that point, which will lead a cable's length north of it in 4 fathoms; when the east end of Motu Arohia bears N.N.W., the shoal, which has on its extreme 15 feet at low water will be passed; and continuing on the same course E. by N. 1/2 N. to pass a convenient distance from Mosquito point which is bold close-to, the shoal patch of 17 feet at low water, and which lies half a mile E. by S. from the east end of Motu Arohia, will also be avoided, that course

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leading southward of it nearly a quarter of a mile; there are 3 1/4 fathoms between this patch and Motu Arohia; and for more than 1 1/2 miles to the eastward there is a clear space free from all dangers, with anchorage in from 7 to 8 fathoms.

The next danger to be avoided is the shoal, with a sunken rock at its extreme, southward of Poro island, and which has been noticed in describing the second island passage; this shoal, which extends from both extremes of the island, has 10 feet at low water; the rock on its extreme end bears from the N.W. low point of the island S. 1/4 E., exactly half a mile distant. In steering to the eastward through the Rawiti, so long as the centre south point of Motu Arohia is not shut in by the eastern point of that island, a vessel will be well to the southward of this rock; when the two points are just touching, she will be 2 cables' lengths south of it in 7 fathoms; when steering on this line, the N.W. low point of Poro island is in one with a double rock lying off the centre point which separates the two sandy bays on the west side of Orupukupuka island bearing N. 1/4 W., she will be abreast the rock; standing to the northward, these last marks lead directly on it.

PAREKURA is the next bay eastward of Manawara, being little more than 2 miles distant; it is one third of a mile in width at the entrance, with 6 fathoms between the points, it runs to the E.S.E, for 1 1/2 miles, and there is anchorage in 4 fathoms half a mile within; a half mile above this depth there is 9 feet at low water.

WAIPERO BAY.--A snug cove running to the S.W. immediately inside the western entrance head of Parekura bay, where there is good anchorage in 15 feet at low water; the head of this cove is within half a mile of the eastern cove in Manawara bay, a high hill rising over the centre of the neck which divides them.

MAKIWI COVE.-- Outside Long point, the eastern entrance point of Parekura, this sandy cove runs to the eastward for half a mile; it is very shallow and unsheltered, and a reef of rocks lies off its entrance awash at half tide; they bear W.S.W. nearly a quarter of a mile from the north point of the cove, which is a cliffy peninsula.

ALBERT CHANNEL should never be attempted unless with a leading wind; small vessels may enter it under the conditions before mentioned, and may frequently with advantage pass to sea through it, if, as is often the case, they have been waiting wind-bound at any of the neighbouring anchorages; but it should not be taken without a steady breeze, in consequence of the swell that would set in after a strong northerly or N.E. wind, and never by large vessels, unless in cases of emergency.

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BAY OF ISLANDS.

Two high cliffy islets, Round islet and Te Ao, lie off the S.W. end of Orupukupuka, and two smaller ones with some rocks about them, on the opposite shore; the bays within the latter to the eastward are shoal and rocky, and the islets must not be passed inside. These islets narrow the channel to a quarter of a mile in width, and a patch of foul ground with 13 feet at low water, lies to the southward of Round islet, in the centre of the passage: in the entrance between the S.E. point of Orupukupuka island and the west point of Richard's peninsula, is another small patch of 16 feet, which also lies exactly in the centre.

HOPE REEF lies from the western entrance point of the channel (the S.E. end of Orupukupuka island) N. 1/4 W. half a mile; this is a very dangerous reef, it is a cable's length in extent, awash at low water, and the sea breaks heavily on it in bad weather; there is a patch of 15 feet. 2 cables' lengths to the eastward of it in the fairway of the channel, and another rock which generally breaks, lies in a line between Hope reef and the Island point, 2 cables' lengths from the latter; immediately outside the reef there are 14 and 15 fathoms.

In a small sandy bay on the south side of Orupukupuka, immediately within the channel, is good anchorage for small vessels in 12 and 14 feet at low water, well sheltered from northerly or westerly winds, but the point of the island must not be rounded very close in entering from the eastward, as some rocks extend a short distance from it.

Richards peninsula is nearly a mile in extent east and west, moderately high, with a steep rocky islet lying off each of its three points, to the eastward, westward, and northward; they are scarcely detached from the coast, which is rugged and sea-beaten:--this peninsula is connected with the main by a low sandy neck, about a hundred yards across.

From here the coast curves to the N.N.E. for two miles to Deep water cove, which from seaward would appear to offer shelter to a vessel:--the water however is too deep for anchorage until within less than half a cables' length of the shore in the north-east cove at its head. Coasters have availed themselves of this cove when not able to work round cape Brett; but the bank is very steep, and an anchor would be liable to drag: it is half a mile wide at the entrance, and runs east for the same distance, a small islet lying off each point.

TWINS ROCK, 3 feet out of water, and about a hundred yards in circumference, lies one mile north of the northern entrance point of Deep water cove, and is three cables' lengths from the nearest part of the coast.

From Deep water cove to Piercy islet off cape Brett is N.E. 1/2 N. 2 1/2 miles, the shore steep and cliffy, with a swell generally setting on it.

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PIERCY ISLET is a high bare rock about 1 1/2 cables' length in extent: it is perforated with a remarkable archway, and has a small rock off its S.E. end; the islet lies about a quarter of a mile N.N.E. of cape Brett, with deep water in the passage between. Small vessels sometimes run through, but unless with a fresh and fair wind, time would be lost by adopting it.

BIRD ROCK.--This black rock more than half a cable's length in extent, and 2 or 3 feet high at high water, lies W. by S. a little more than a mile from Piercy islet, with 40 fathoms water close-to.

CAPE BRETT.--The summit of this cape is 1,220 feet above the sea, and the highest land in the neighbourhood; and is a mile S. by E. of the extreme point; it rises abruptly from the eastern side, but slopes gradually to the northward, rising again at the extreme point to a high round hillock.

The eastern approach to the Bay of Islands is equally remarkable as the western, the high land of cape Brett cannot fail to be recognized from a long distance on any bearing.

Vessels bound to the Bay from the southward, with a fair wind and clear weather, may round Piercy islet at the distance of half a mile in 40 fathoms water; the course then will be W.S.W. 7 miles, which will lead a quarter of a mile outside Bird rock, and nearly a mile outside the Whale rock; when the island channel between Red head and the islands westward of it is open, the Whale rock is passed, and a S.W. by S. course for 4 1/2 miles will take a vessel mid-channel between Motu Roa island and Tapeka point: the directions already given for the harbour above these points will suffice.

Vessels-arriving off cape Brett from the southward with a S.W. wind are recommended to stand direct across for cape Wiwiki and the Ninepin, in preference to making short boards; as much smoother water will be found, and this wind frequently draws off the western shore and favours them, particularly towards the close of the day.

TIDES within the Bay of Islands are not much felt, except at the narrow entrance of the rivers, where they run from 1 to 2 1/2 knots per hour. In the Rawiti, one knot an hour is about their greatest strength, the flood running to the westward, and the ebb to the eastward.

It is high water on full and change days at Kororarika at 7h 15m; range of tide, from 4 to 9 feet.

FROM CAPE BRETT TO AUCKLAND HARBOUR.

The inshore course and distance from a berth 2 miles abreast Piercy islet, cape Brett, into the Hauraki gulf, is S.E. 1/2 S. 30 miles, which will

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BAY OF ISLANDS.--WANGAMOMOO HARBOUR.

read 3 1/2 miles off the Wide Berth islands (south point of Wangaruru bay); inside the Poor Knights and Sugar Loaf rocks, 3 1/2 miles from the latter, and will take a vessel abreast Tutukaka harbour, at a distance of about 4 1/2 miles.

When abreast Tutukaka harbour, which will be known by three remarkable headlands called the Three Gables, a course S. by E. 1/2 E. 23 miles, will lead midway between Bream Head (Tewara) and the Chicken group, and abreast the Sail rock (Toutourou).

The course is then S.E. for 25 miles to abreast Takatou point, 2 miles distant, having passed Rodney point within 1 1/4 miles. If it is intended to pass outside Flat rock, which, when abreast Takatou point, will be 5 miles distant, the same course will lead 2 miles clear of it; if inside, S. b. E. 1/4 E. will be about a middle course between it and Kawau island, one mile distant from either. A vessel passing inside the Flat rock, will take the Wangaproa channel to Auckland harbour, which bears from the S.E. end of Kawau island, S. 1/4 E., 9 miles.

In giving these inshore courses, it must be understood by the seaman that they are only intended for vessels passing down the coast under favourable circumstances, and when everything can be plainly made out: they are the courses usually adopted by coasters, and by those acquainted with the navigation, when running for the Hauraki gulf, or Auckland harbour, with a fair wind.

WANGAMOMOO harbour.--From cape Brett the coast trends S. 1/4 E. for 5 miles to the small harbour, Wangamomoo: the only danger between is a flat rock, 2 feet out of water, which lies 1 3/4 miles south of Piercy islet, a quarter of a mile off shore.

Wangamomoo is the southern of two bays, somewhat similar in appearance when seen from seaward: the northern bay has several rocks scattered over it, and is without anchorage.

The north head of the harbour has an island lying directly east of it, and almost connected with the main; and to the south of this head close-to, is a high bare islet; neither of these however, will be made out at any great distance. The southern head will be easily distinguished; it is the extreme of a high peninsula, which projects more than half a mile further to the eastward than the north head.

The entrance is nearly half a mile wide, with l5 fathoms water; but to get secure anchorage, a vessel must enter a small basin which runs to the S.W. when 1 1/2 miles within the north head point, and the entrance to which is not 2 cables wide: it is a snug anchorage for small vessels in 5 and 6 fathoms, but is not eligible for ships of large tonnage.

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COAST SOUTHWARD OF WANGAMOMOO.--The peninsula which forms the southern side of Wangamomoo harbour extends 1 1/2 miles easterly from the main land, forming a bight on its southern side, which trends south-easterly to Home point, the northernmost point of Bland bay: this bight offers no shelter; there are some scattered rocks in its N.W. corner, and a small islet lies S. 1/2 E., 2 1/2 miles from the point of the peninsula, a quarter of a mile off the shore.

Home point lies S.E., 4 1/2 miles from the south head of Wangamomoo: it is a remarkable flat-topped point, and only connected with the main by a narrow neck: two cliffy islets lie south of this point, at distances of a half, and three quarters of a mile respectively: they are about a cable's length in extent, and the same distance off shore.

BLAND BAY is immediately to the westward of these islets; it runs in a westerly direction for 1 1/4 miles, and has a long sandy beach on its S.W. side, which is the northern side of the neck separating it from Wangaruru harbour, this neck is only 150 fathoms across. This bay is three-quarters of a mile wide at its entrance; but a line of rocky islets extend from its south side--a short distance within the head--in a northerly direction, more than half way across the bay; there are also two rocks in the centre of the entrance which break at low water, or when there is any swell: they bear from the southern rocky islet on the north side of the bay S.S.E., half a mile, and S. 1/2 E. 4 cables' lengths, leaving a passage north of them of only 2 cables' length.

The only shelter which this bay would afford from easterly winds, is to the westward of the line of rocky islets just mentioned, and here there is not more than 2 fathoms water, so that, although it has a somewhat inviting appearance in fine weather, it is useless as an anchorage, and a vessel should not stand in, within the line of the heads.

DANGER ROCK, a black pinnacle rock standing 8 or 10 feet out of water, lies immediately off Bland bay, one mile from the coast: it bears from Home point, S.E., 1 1/2 miles; and from the north entrance of Wangaruru harbour, (cape Home,) N. 3/4 E., 2 1/2 miles: this rock is steep, and may be passed on either side, there being 24 fathoms within 2 cables' lengths.

From the south head of Bland bay to the entrance of Wangaruru harbour, the coast is steep and bold, with no outlying dangers.

WANGARURU HARBOUR 4 is S.S.E. 13 miles from cape Brett, and lies in the north-west corner of a bay 5 miles in length, of which cape Home is the north point, and the Wide Berth islands the southern

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BLAND BAY.--WANGARURU HARBOUR.

limit: it is a good harbour for medium sized vessels, well sheltered, and easy of access. It lies in a N. W. and S.E. direction, and is formed between the main land and the high peninsula which separates it from Bland bay.

Henry island lies in the entrance, and with the reef which extends off its southern extreme, affords considerable protection from easterly winds: it is not above 2 cables' lengths in extent, and a reef of rocks awash runs off its southern end in the same direction for nearly a quarter of a mile: the north end of this island bears from cape Home S. 1/2 W. 4 cables' lengths. Vessels may enter the harbour on either side of Henry island:-- the passage to the northward is narrow, being a quarter of a mile in width, with a depth of 7 fathoms: after passing Henry island, the Black rocks will be seen on the starboard hand; they extend a quarter of a mile to the southward from Grove point, and the same distance off the land for half a mile to the eastward of that point, with 4 fathoms half a cable's length from their extreme.

Passing to the northward of Henry island the mid-channel course will be W. by S., or a little to the right of Rugged point, a remarkable long, low rocky point, bearing from the centre of Henry island W. by S. nearly a mile; a large vessel should anchor in 6 fathoms, the centre of Henry island bearing east, distant a long half mile, and Grove point in a line with the extreme of the Black rocks N.N.W. 1/2 W.: the latter rocks will then be 3 1/2 cables distant, and the extreme of Rugged point the same.

The passage south of Henry island however, is the widest and best:-- vessels entering Wangaruru bay from the southward, after giving the Wide Berth islands a berth of 1 1/2 miles, in 14 fathoms, should steer west, which will lead between Henry and Nops islands: the latter bears S. b. W. from the former 1 1/4 miles distant; is little more than a quarter of a mile long, and has two summits, which when abreast give it the appearance of two islands, they are connected however, by a narrow neck of sand. When mid-channel between Henry and Nops islands, steer N.W. 3/4 N., or for Grove point, and anchor with the bearings already given.

The reef which extends a quarter of a mile S. b. W. from the south point of Henry island is awash; but vessels should not approach that point of the island within 3 cables' lengths, when they will have 9 fathoms water; if in 7 fathoms they are too close.

There is a more sheltered anchorage than the one just described, 1 1/4 miles above the Rugged point, but the channel to it is narrow for vessels of large draught, as a bank with 15 feet at low water extends nearly half a mile westward of Grove point. Vessels desiring this anchorage, and drawing more than 14 feet, should, after passing the

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Rugged point, steer to pass one cable's length outside the high islet which bears from Rugged point N.W. 1/2 W. half a mile, and is connected with the shore by a ledge dry at low water; when this islet bears south, a cable's length distant, steer N.N.W. or a little to the right of Hay island, which is 1 1/2 miles distant. By observing these directions, a vessel will pass the narrows in 20 feet at low water, and almost immediately after passing the high islet, the water will deepen to 4 fathoms; when abreast the northern end of Sandy bay (on the left hand), where there is a small native settlement, anchor in 4 fathoms, about 3 cables' lengths off the western shore, with Grove point bearing E.S.E.; the bottom here is mud.

Coasters drawing 8 feet may go 1 1/2 miles above this, when the river narrows to a quarter of a mile, and is too shoal for anything but boats, the channel is to the southward of Hay island: the only danger is a rock with 4 feet water, which lies from the north point of the Settlement bay on the west shore N. b. W. 2 cables' lengths, and from the S. W. point of Hay island S.E. half a mile.

GROVE POINT.--A snug and sheltered anchorage for vessels drawing from 10 to 12 feet, may be obtained half a mile northward of Grove point, and about 3 cables' lengths offshore, in 16 feet at low water: there is a native settlement in the first bay north of the point where supplies maybe obtained from the natives; peaches and potatoes are in abundance. Fresh water may also be obtained from a stream in this bay, as well as from the Settlement bay on the opposite shore.

MIMIWANGA BAY, in the S.E. corner of Wangaruru bay, is a mile in wridth at its entrance, and the same in depth. It lies S.E. 1/2 E. 4 miles from Henry island, and is open to the northward. Coasters bound to the southward make a stopping place of this bay with southerly winds: the best anchorage is with the east point of the bay, a cliffy point with three rocks off it, bearing north about 4 cables' lengths distant. On the east side is a long sandy beach, off the S.W. point of which, N.W. 1/4 N. a quarter of a mile, is a rock awash at low water.

WIDE BERTH islands are a cluster of high, rocky islets lying in a N.N.E. and S.S.W, direction, and extending off the south head of Wangaruru bay: the outer or north-easternmost lies E. by N. 3/4 N. from the south head 1 1/2 miles distant, and the inner one is a quarter of a mile from the shore. Three reefs awash lie a mile to the southward of these islands, and bear from the outer islet from S.S.E. to S.S.W., covering a space of more than half a mile; these islands should generally be given a berth of 2 miles, unless with a commanding breeze, as there is a swell

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WANGARURU AND TUTUKAKA HARBOURS.

frequently setting on them, and the tides are liable to sweep a vessel too close in light winds and calms.

From Wide Berth islands to the north Gable, the coast trends S.W. 1/2 S. for nearly 11 miles: it is indented with several sandy bays, but without anchorages.

ELIZABETH REEF, on which a vessel of this name was wrecked, lies off this part of the coast; it is 6 3/4 miles to the northward of the north head of Tutukaka harbour, and bears from the outer Wide Berth islet S.E. 1/2 S. 5 miles; it is half a mile in extent in every direction, and its outer edge lies a mile from the shore. The central part is awash at high water, and the sea always breaking on it; there is a narrow channel with 3 fathoms between it and the shore; 7 fathoms will be found close outside, and 22 fathoms a mile distant from this reef.

FOUR ISLETS are nearly midway between the Wide Berth islets and the Elizabeth reef, about a quarter of a mile off the coast, with 10 fathoms water a cable's length outside them:--the southern islet is high, and is the largest, being about a quarter of a mile in extent; it bears from Elizabeth reef N.W. 3/4 W. 2 miles, and from the outer Wide Berth islet S.S.E. 1/2 E. nearly 4 miles, the other three islets lie about a mile to the N.W.

SANDY BAY is immediately south of the Elizabeth reef; it is 3 miles in length and 1 1/2 miles in depth; there are 6 and 8 fathoms water in it. A rock awash lies 1 1/2 cables' lengths off the beach a mile to the southward of the north head; smooth water may be had in 6 fathoms, sheltered by the Elizabeth reef, and it would afford temporary anchorage for coasters in fine weather.

THREE GABLES are three remarkable gable-shaped headlands, lying in a N.N.W. 1/2 W. direction nearly a mile apart from each other, having bays between which are rocky and unsheltered; the southernmost gable forms the north head of Tutukaka harbour.

TUTUKAKA HARBOUR 5 is 30 miles from cape Brett, and 13 miles from the south head of Wangaruru bay; it bears from the southern Poor Knight island S.E. 1/2 S. 11 miles, and will be easily recognized by the three peculiar headlands just mentioned. It has always been a favorite coasting harbour, in consequence of its position with regard to the Nongodo river, (being only 1 1/2 miles to the northward), whence many of the native exports are derived; this river being difficult of access, owing to its intricate entrance, Tutukaka has been resorted to instead; a good native path connects the two, the distance being about three quarters of a mile.

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The north head of Tutukaka is nearly an island, being barely connected by a very narrow sandy neck, which the sea washes: what will appear as the south head in coming from the southward is also a cliffy islet, extending from the coast two cables' lengths, and almost joined to it by rocks:-- this islet bears from the north head S. by E. 1/2 E. six-tenths of a mile, and has two rocks lying off it in an E. by S. 1/2 S. direction; the outer rock is above water 2 cables' lengths from it; the inner rock breaks, and is midway between the outer one and the land, one cable's length from each; there are 3 and 4 fathoms water between these rocks; another rock which breaks lies S. by W. 1/4 W. from the south head islet, distant 2 1/2 cables' lengths.

The true south head of the harbour lies W.N.W. half a mile from the above islet, and from it a cluster of rocks extends above water towards the north head for a quarter of a mile, the largest rock being well out of water, and a cable's length in extent. Between this rock and the north head is the passage in; it is just one cable's length wide, and when inside, opens out to two cables; the anchorage is 2 cables' lengths inside the rock in 4 1/2 or 5 fathoms; a vessel will then be a quarter of a mile from Philipp's island, a high wooded islet which lies in the centre of the harbour, and distant W. b. S. half a mile from the entrance rock. From Philipp's island the harbour branches off into two arms, they are both shallow, and end in sandy beaches; one runs to the W.N.W. for half a mile, and the other S. b. W. for somewhat less. There will be found 15 feet at low water a cable's length from Philipp's island.

Tutukaka harbour, it will be seen, is only fit for small vessels, though H.M.S. Buffalo, when waiting here for kaurie spars from the Nongodo river, lay for some time moored head and stern, which vessels of large tonnage must do. The rocks at the entrance afford good shelter from easterly winds; there is a boat channel with 9 feet water between them to the southward. The only directions which seem necessary for entering the harbdur are, to avoid the reefs which lie off the South Head islet, by giving it a berth of half a mile, and to make for the North head, passing in between it and the entrance rock; there are 5 fathoms close to the former, 7 to the latter, and 8 in mid-channel.

NONGODO river 6 lies in the N.W. corner of a sandy bay 1 1/2 miles to the southward of Tutukaka. In this bay there is good anchorage with off-shore winds in 6 and 7 fathoms, sandy bottom; the river can only be entered in fine weather by coasters acquainted with the locality; it is very narrow with a rock in the entrance, and carries a depth of 5 feet at low water for a distance of 4 miles within the mouth. Kaurie spars

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NONGODO RIVER.--WANGARI BAY AND HARBOUR.

have been procured from forests in the neighbourhood of this river, and there are still some to be had.

The bay trends 4 miles in a S.E. b. S. direction from Nongodo river, and terminates in a projecting point with a small islet lying close off it, which may be passed close, in 16 fathoms. W.N.W. nearly a mile from this point is a rock awash, 2 cables' lengths off shore.

From the projecting point, the coast trends S.S.E. 8 1/2 miles to Bream head (Tewara), and is almost straight; for a distance of 4 miles the land is moderately high with a cliffy coast, which terminates abruptly in a round hill, and is succeeded by the low land of the Wangari peninsula, the coast being fringed with sand-hills to the neighbourhood of the cape, when the high and rugged land of Bream head immediately over it, and the neighbouring hills fronting its southern face, rise to a height of 1500 feet. Bream islet, about 2 cables' lengths in extent, lies north from the cape nearly a mile, there are also three rocky ledges at distances of 1 and 2 miles from it, close to the shore; there are no other dangers along this coast, and from 18 to 20 fathoms will be found a mile from the shore.

WANGARI BAY.--Bream head is the north point of Wangari bay: it is 42 miles S.S.E. 3/4 E. from cape Brett, nearly 16 miles from the north head of Tutukaka harbour, and W. by N. 5 miles from the west or nearest Chicken islet. S. by E. from it 11 miles is the Bream tail, (Papai Outou) a bluff of moderate height, and the southern limit of the bay, which is 7 miles in depth, running in an uniform curve to the westward, with a sandy beach of 10 miles in extent.

At a distance of 2 miles from this beach there is anchorage with westerly winds ranging from north to south, in 5 and 6 fathoms, sand bottom, except within 2 miles of its N.W. extreme, or the sandy west point of Wangari harbour, off which extends a sand-flat, (Mare bank) which will be noticed hereafter.

WANGARI HARBOUR. 7--From Bream head the coast runs in a W. b. S. direction towards the harbour, and is steep, with a continuation of the Bream head mountain range rising abruptly from the sea almost to the same height for a distance of 3 miles, when it terminates in Busby head, the east point of the harbour; to the eastward of Busby head a bight runs in for half a mile, which is shoal, and should be avoided; off the west pitch of Busby head is a steep sugar-loaf cone, connected with it by a ledge; this may be considered the entrance point. The coast from this turns directly north; and at a distance of half a mile is Home point, with a hill about 200 feet high over it; round this point, in Calliope bay, is the first anchorage, and a vessel should only shoot round it

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sufficiently far for protection from a S.E. swell, or about a quarter of a mile and 1 1/2 cables from the shore, as the distance from it to the Calliope bank is scarcely 3 cables' lengths; this is only a small vessel anchorage.

CALLIOPE BANK is an extensive sand-flat, extending from Lort point, the northern entrance point of the river, in a sweep, to within 3 cables' lengths of Home point, and covering the whole of the bay eastward of it, with the exception of a very narrow channel in shore for coasters; there is scarcely 2 feet on this bank at low water. 8

MARE BANK.--The western point of Wangari harbour, which is a rounding sandy point bordered with sandy hillocks from 15 to 20 feet high, bears from the Sugar-loaf N.W. by W. 1/2 W. 2 miles: from this point the Mare bank extends, sweeping round to the east and S.E., approaching within 4 cables' lengths of Home point, and thence to the southward.

The channel is thus formed, until abreast of Home point, by the Mare bank on the left and the main land on the right, and 4 cables' lengths is its extreme width. When above Home point, Mare bank still continues the left hand boundary, and the Calliope bank becomes right, the channel narrowing to little more than 3 cables' lengths, until abreast of the Channel islet, a small wooded islet, which lies close off Lort point. W.N.W. from this islet, nearly half a mile, is the second or Channel islet anchorage.

N. by W. three quarters of a mile from Home point is a small islet; it lies on the Calliope bank, a quarter of a mile to the northward of its southern edge. N.N.W. 1/2 W. from the same point 1 1/2 mile distant, and close to the north shore of Calliope bay, is another higher and larger islet, which is used as a leading mark for the channel.

As vessels forced into Wangari harbour by stress of weather would seek either of the two anchorages just mentioned for shelter, it seems desirable before noticing the upper part of the river, to give concise directions for passing through the narrows which lead to them.

Vessels entering Wangari under such circumstances should be prepared to shorten sail and anchor without delay, as the tides are strong, and running in with a fair gale of wind there is not much room for rounding to; a look-out from aloft is also desirable in a large vessel, as the edges of the banks will generally be easily distinguished.

To enter Wangari from the northward or eastward, and after rounding or passing Bream head extreme, the mountain (Bream head) should be brought to bear N. by W., keeping half a mile off the shore; when this bearing

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WANGARI HARBOUR.

is on, steer W. b. .S., or parallel with the coast, for 2 miles: the Sugar loaf off the west point of Busby head will then bear N.W. b. W. 1/2 W. and the western sandy entrance point will be just open of it; observing that in approaching Wangari on this course, the Sugar loaf will not appear as detached from Busby head until the above marks are nearly on.

When the above marks are on, steer immediately W.b.N. 3/4 N. for nearly a mile, which will lead abreast the Sugarloaf, and 2 cables' lengths from it; when abreast it at this distance, alter course to N.N.W. 1/4 W., or for the left extreme of the high islet on the north shore of Calliope bay; little more than half a mile on this course will be abreast and 2 cables' lengths from Home point. If the first anchorage is desired, haul close round this point, proceeding to the eastward a quarter of a mile, and anchor in 4 fathoms, 1 1/2 cables' lengths or less from the shore: here a vessel will be almost out of the tide and in safety.

If the second anchorage is preferred, (and which is recommended for vessels of large size,) when abreast Home point and about two cables' lengths off it, steer N.W. by N., or one point to the left of high islet on the north side of Calliope bay, for one mile; or until the sand hillock on the western sandy entrance point bears W. by S. 1/2 S., or High islet centre N. 1/4 W.; then alter course to W. by N., to pass one cable's length to the southward, or on the port hand of Channel islet in 13 fathoms;-- anchor N.W. b. W, from the centre of the islet, 4 cables' lengths distant from it in 5 1/2 fathoms; a vessel will then be a quarter of a mile from the shore, and the same distance from the nearest part of the Snake bank, or Middle ground.

By following the above directions a patch of 4 1/2 fathoms will be passed over, E.S.E. 1 mile from Busby head, from thence mid-channel to abreast the Sugar loaf, from 6 to 9 fathoms will be carried. From the Sugar loaf to abreast Sandy point 10, 12, and in some places 14 fathoms. From thence to Channel islet from 8 to 9, and close to the islet 13, when it immediately shoals towards the anchorage to 7 and 5 over sand and mud.

The banks of the channel are rather steep; and if a vessel gets into 4 fathoms on either side, she is too close.

TIDES. --It is high water on full and change days at the lower anchorages at 7h Om; the range from 5 to 9 feet. The tides run 3 knots.

Vessels bound to Wangari from the southward should not steer inside a line from Bream tail to the Sugar loaf, or if the latter cannot be seen, the high hill eastward between it and Bream head, until within the proper distance of that land, for entering the channel.

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In working up Wangari bay to the northward, for the harbour, an isolated round hill will be immediately seen, rising out of the low land on the south side of Wangari; this hill is a mile from the beach, and bears from the western entrance, (Sandy point,) S.W. by S. 3 1/2 miles. To avoid the Mare bank, as soon as this hill is brought to bear W. by S., vessels must not stand in so far as to bring the Sugar loaf to the eastward of N.N.E. Round the north side of the hill just mentioned winds a rapid stream, which empties itself into Wangari bay about 4 miles from the sandy point: boats may enter, and it deepens considerably inside.

WANGARI RIVER.---The passage between Lort point and the western sandy point is half a mile wide and may be considered the entrance of the Wangari river: above these points it opens out to a width of 2 miles, the south shore is low and swampy, while the north is overlooked by hills of considerable height.

There is a channel of 3 1/2 fathoms at low water as far up as Limestone island, a distance of 8 miles; and it preserves an average width of nearly a quarter of a mile: with the exception of this channel the water is shoal, with numerous flats dry or nearly so at low water. To make the river generally available for vessels of large tonnage it would require to be buoyed in several places; but with care and attention to the chart, anchorage as high up as Single tree point may be obtained without any other aid.

SINGLE TREE POINT is a flat clay cliffy-looking point about 20 feet high, with a solitary tree on its extreme, which will be seen at a long distance, there being no others in the vicinity; it bears from Sandy point W. by N. 1/2 N. 2 3/4 miles. To the south-eastward of Single tree is another point of the same nature, but lower (Sinclair point), it is the commencement of the line of clay cliffs, and bears W. 3/4 N. from Sandy point nearly 1 3/4 miles: the channel as far as Single tree point, lies on the south shore at a distance of about half a mile from it, and between it and the Snake bank.

SNAKE BANK extends from a little above Channel islet anchorage in a N.W. direction nearly three miles; this bank is covered at high water, except a serpentine spit, always dry, and bearing from Channel islet W.N.W. 1 1/2 miles. Vessels bound up the river without anchoring should pass exactly mid-way between Channel islet and Sandy point, where the water is very deep (one cast of 20 fathoms).

When the centre of the islet bears N. by W. 1/2 W., steer directly for the tree on Single tree point W. 3/4 N. for 1 3/4 miles carrying 4 fathoms; Sinclair point will then bear S. W. by S., when steer N.W. by W. 1/4 W.,

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WANGARI HARBOUR.--RODNEY POINT.

or a little to the left of the high land over Annoyance point (exactly for the left extreme of the point), for one mile, in from 5 to 7 fathoms, when the Single tree will bear S.W. nearly half a mile, and a vessel may anchor in 5 fathoms mid-channel; above this the southern coast recedes, and becomes very low and swampy, with mangrove bushes.

From Single tree point the channel contracts for some distance to less than 2 cables' lengths, and no natural marks sufficiently accurate to lead a vessel through can be given. The line of shoal water may often be distinguished by the discolouration and by the tide line; these indications and the lead will be the best guide until the river is buoyed. The general course, from the position given off Single tree point, is W. b. N. for 2 3/4 miles, leading rather towards the northern shore in from 3 to 3 1/2 fathoms; when this distance is run, or the high land over the right extreme of Annoyance point bears N.E. by E. 3/4 E., steer N. W. by W. 1/2 W. for two miles, or until a remarkable shoulder sloping to the N. W. (the termination of the high land on the north shore) bears N.E. by E. 1/2 E., a course may then be steered mid-channel between the river point and the north point of Limestone island. Coasters go some miles above this at high water, and the country is one of the finest in New Zealand; there are several farms on the river banks.

There is a large but shallow bay on the north side of the channel, Maori bay; its entrance is N. by W. 1 1/2 miles from Single tree point; this bay is only fit for coasters, as the middle ground must be crossed from Single tree in 9 feet, and at low water the anchorage within does not exceed that depth; on its shores the natives have some small cultivations.

Fresh water may be obtained at either of the lower anchorages; at the first, in Calliope bay, there is a small river half a mile above the anchorage, where it can be got with much facility: at the Channel islet anchorage, there is a stream running through a stony beach abreast the anchorage.

BREAM TAIL TO RODNEY POINT---From Bream tail the coast trends S.E. 3/4 E. to Rodney point, 19 miles: --it is almost straight, with long sandy beaches; the land is not high, but slopes gradually from a continuation of the Bream tail range to the beach. In the neighbourhood of Rodney point the coast is more hilly. Mount Hamilton, a remarkable wooded eminence with a double summit, rises to a height of 1,300 feet, 6 miles to the westward of it.

The soundings off this part of the coast are regular, 30 fathoms 5 miles off the land, and shoaling gradually to 6 within half a mile. Rodney point is a bold cliffy point, not high itself, though high land rises at the back; it may be passed close.

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LITTLE OMA COVE.--A mile south of Rodney point is Little Oma cove, a double-headed creek, where coasters frequently find a stopping place in N.W. winds; there is a reef above water off its north point; the anchorage is in 5 fathoms, a quarter of a mile from the beach.

GREAT OMA BAY.--The first projecting point south of Rodney point, is Takatou; it bears from the former S.E. 3/4 S. 6 miles: midway between the two is Great Oma bay, horseshoe-shaped, and 3 miles in depth; there is anchorage in it with off-shore winds in 5 to 9 fathoms, but it is exposed to easterly winds, when a heavy swell rolls in. Takatou point is a long remarkable looking point, with several cone-shaped rocks standing on its extreme.

KAWAU ISLAND. 9--Southward of Takatou point, 1 3/4 miles, is the Kawau island, 3 1/2 miles in extent from north to south, and about the same from east to west. It is hilly and well wooded, its average height varying between 500 and GOO feet: on its S.W. coast is a copper mine in course of being worked, and adjacent on the west side, is Bon Accord harbour, with good anchorage for the largest vessels; immediately north of this harbour is the north cove, an anchorage for small vessels.

To the westward of Kawau island is an extensive inlet, known as Kawau bay: it extends westward for 4 miles, and is about the same extent in a north and south direction; it has a depth of from 4 to 6 fathoms in almost every part, and in the N.W. corner is the river Mata Kana, which is navigable for coasters.

There are three channels to Bon Accord harbour and Kawau bay, viz.:-- the north, south, and inner channels. The north channel lies between Takatou point and the north shores of Kawau island; the south channel is between the south side of that island and the Kaitu-kala islands; the inner channel, which is convenient for vessels from Auckland or from the southward, and the easiest for navigation, is inside the islands Ora and Kaitu-kala, or between them and the mainland.

The NORTH CHANNEL, which is recommended for a vessel from the northward with a leading wind, or indeed with any wind but a strong westerly one, has the following dangers:--the Maori rock, awash at low water, a cable's length in extent, and lies S. by W. nine-tenths of a mile from Takatou point.

A large flat rock just above water, bearing from Takatou point south 1 1/2 miles, and from Kawiti point, the north point of Kawau island, E. 1/2 N. nearly a mile; this rock is a quarter of a mile from the Kawau shore, and can scarcely be called a danger, being always visible and out of the usual track of vessels.

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KAWAU ISLAND.

A shoal of 8 feet at low water, bearing West 3 cables' lengths from Kawiti point, with a deep water channel between.

These dangers may be avoided by attending to the following directions; but in working through the north channel it must be remembered that a tide of more than 3 knots runs there at the springs:-- The passage between Maori rock and the rock above water on the Kawau shore is the best, there being a clear distance of more than half a mile between.

The passage north, or inshore of Maori rock, is barely a quarter of a mile wide, and should not be used unless under favourable circumstances, or by those acquainted with the channel, and when the rock is visible; but if adopted, the points on the north shore should be given a berth of a quarter of a mile, as sunken rocks extend off some distance; Maori rock must in this case be passed within 1 1/2 cables' lengths.

Vessels coming from the northward or eastward with a leading wind, and taking the wider and better channel, should pass Takatou point at a distance of about half a mile; when abreast this point, if Maori rock is covered, steer S. by W. 1 1/4 miles, or until Kawiti point bears S.W. by W. 3/4 W. Maori rock will then bear N.W. by W. 1/4 W., nearly half a mile distant; from this steer W. by S. 1 3/4 miles, or until Pembles islet, which lies close off the north point of North cove, is in a line with the westernmost point of Kawau island, which is half a mile to the southward of the islet:--Kawiti point will then bear E. by S. 3/4 S. half a mile distant, and a vessel will be well clear of the shoal off it; a course may now be steered S. b. W. to pass outside Pembles islet 2 cables' lengths, and when the entrance to Bon Accord harbour, which is a mile southward of the islet, opens out, haul in and anchor in mid-channel, abreast the second bay on the south side, in 4 1/2 fathoms.

In entering the north channel when Maori rock is seen in passing Takatou point, a course may be steered to pass outside it about 3 cables' lengths, and when the rock bears N.W. by N., at that distance; steer as before directed, W. by S., and observe the same marks for clearing the shoal off Kawiti point and entering Bon Accord harbour.

A good mark for Maori rock is the northernmost Mayne island in a line with Kawiti point, which leads directly on it; and vessels passing in or out of this channel may be certain that when Mayne island is not open of Kawiti point, they are to the southward of the rock.

BON ACCORD HARBOUR lies about the centre of the west side of Kawau island; it runs in an cast and west direction for 1 1/4 miles, and is three quarters of a mile wide at its entrance; half a mile inside its entrance, (which is as far as a large vessel should go,) it is half a mile wide. There are several bays on its south shore; in Momona, the outer bay, are

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the residences of the director and workmen of the copper mine; small vessels anchor here, but must not remain with a fresh wind from northward or westward; the best anchorage is in mid-channel abreast the second bay, with the north entrance point bearing W. by N. 1/4 N. half a mile distant, and Momona point in line with the western point of the second bay. In a bay on the north side of the harbour, abreast this anchorage, fresh water may be obtained with much facility.

SMELTING COVE, on the north shore of Bon Accord harbour, is a mile from the north head: good anchorage in 3 fathoms may be had off its west sandy point; there is a large smelting establishment in this cove, built with stone brought from the Mata Kana river quarries.

MARTELLO ROCK. -- S.W. 3/4 W. from Momona point--the southern head of Bon Accord harbour--nearly half a mile distant, is the Martello rock, so called from its resemblance to a Martello tower; it is surrounded by a reef, extending in a north and south direction 1 1/2 cables' lengths, but there is a good passage between it and Kawau island of more than a quarter of a mile.

MAYNE ISLANDS.--Directly off the mouth of Bon Accord harbour westward, at a distance of 1 1/4 miles, are the Mayne islands, two small islands lying in a N.N.W. and S.S.E. direction, and half a mile apart, with a reef lying between.

NORTH COVE is half a mile to the northward of Bon Accord harbour; it is a quarter of a mile wide at its entrance, and anchorage may be had in 3 1/2 fathoms, at that distance inside the heads: a reef of rocks awash lies 1 1/2 cables' lengths north of its southern entrance point. Much sea sets into this cove with westerly winds.

DISPUTE COVE is a small cove on the south side of Kawau island, a mile to the S.E. of Bon Accord harbour. The copper mine is on the north side of this cove, and small vessels anchor off it in fine weather to carry the ore to Bon Accord for smelting or shipping; there is no shelter with westerly or north-westerly winds.

The southern side of Kawau island may be passed within less than half a mile in 14 fathoms; there is a bay near the S.E. extreme, where a vessel may anchor with northerly winds: two small steep islets lie a cable's length to the southward of the S.E. point of the island (Kawau point), with a boat passage inside them.

The eastern side of Kawau island is a steep and bold cliffy shore, and may be approached within a quarter of a mile, in from 12 to 15 fathoms.

FLAT ROCK.--E. by N. 1/2 N. from Kawau point, two miles distant, lies the Flat rock which has been already described (p. 21.)

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KAWAU ISLAND.

TIDES.--The flood tide runs to the westward through the north channel, sweeping round Kawau bay, and down to the southward; on the east side of Kawau island the flood runs to the southward, and with considerable strength near the S.E. extreme. The ebb runs to the northward on both sides of the island, and out to the eastward through the north channel, at the rate of 3 1/2 knots during springs.

In the southern and inshore channels their velocity is from 1 1/2 to 2 1/2 knots. It is high water at Bon Accord harbour on full and change days at 6h 3Om;--range from 4 to 10 feet.

The SOUTH CHANNEL.--The Kaitu-kala islands, between which and Kawau island is the south passage, are two small islands, each little more than half a mile in extent; they are bare of trees, moderately high, and have a passage 1 1/2 cables' lengths wide between them, with 9 and 10 fathoms. Their northern end bears from the S.E. point of Kawau S.W. 3/4 W. 3 1/2 miles, and from Wanga point, the northern point of Wangaproa peninsula, N. by W. 3/4 W. 7 1/4 miles.

The impediments to navigation in this channel are, the Beehive islet and reef, Passage reef, and Albert shoal. The Beehive is a remarkable cone-shaped islet, with a white sandy beach round its base; it is surrounded by a reef, 3 cables' lengths from east to west, and one from north to south, and lies between Kaitu-kala islands, and the south point of Kawau, N. 1/4 E., 1 mile from the former, and S.W. 3/4 W. six tenths of a mile from the latter; it may be passed on either side. The clear passage, between it and Kawau island, is 3 cables' lengths wide, with not less than 4 1/2 fathoms water; if this passage is taken, a vessel should steer in direct mid-channel between Beehive islet and the point of Kawau island, as a reef extends a cable's length south of the latter point. Immediately on passing the Beehive, the water deepens to 6 fathoms, and a direct course may be shaped for the Martello rock, bearing N.W. by W. distant 1 1/2 miles; when within a convenient distance of the latter, pass either outside, or between it and Momona point, and enter Bon Accord harbour as before directed.

The projecting point two cables' lengths south of Momona point has two peaked rocks lying close off it, which will be a good mark from the southward.

The passage between Beehive islet and Kaitu-kala islands is divided by the Passage reef, a cluster of rocks half a cable in extent and dry at low water, which lie nearly in the centre of it. The passage to the southward of this reef is the widest and deepest; that to the northward should not be taken unless the rocks are seen awash; the course will then be in mid-channel between them and the Beehive in 4 fathoms, and when they are

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past, West, until the marks are on for clearing the Albert shoal. Passage reef bears from the north end of Kaitu-kala island N. by E. 1/2 E. more than half a mile, and from Beehive S. by E. 1/2 E. 3 1/2 cables' lengths.

The passage between Kaitu-kala islands and Passage reef, is more than half a mile wide, with 8 and 9 fathoms, and is preferable for large ships to those just described. Vessels from the eastward or northward, intending to tako it, after passing the S.E. end of the Kawau island, should steer for the northern end of Kaitu-kala islands until within half a mile of it, or until the summit of Fish point (the southern point of Kawau bay,) bears W. b. N. 1/2 N., when a course should be steered for that point to pass to the southward of the Albert shoal; passing about 3 cables' lengths from the north end of Kaitu-kala, or nearer if convenient. When the Martello rock bears N. by E. 1/4 E. a vessel is to the westward of Albert shoal, and may steer direct for that rock; on this course, and when the Beehive bears E. by S. there are 9 fathoms water, and the shoal will lie on the same bearing, about 3 cables' lengths distant; and when the Beehive bears E.S.E., a vessel will be well clear to the northward of it, and may pass either inside the Martello rock, or between it and the southern Mayne island, which latter is a channel of more than half a mile wide, with 10 and 11 fathoms. An excellent mark for clearing the Albert shoal, and one which cannot fail to be recognized, is the Martello rock in a line with a remarkable drop in the coast to the northward (the neck of the Takatou peninsula), bearing a little to the eastward of north, which will lead to the westward of the shoal nearly a quarter of a mile, and a vessel intending to pass to the westward of it must on no account haul up for Bon Accord harbour until the Martello rock is brought on or to the eastward of this mark.

ALBERT SHOAL is 2 cables' length in extent, and on its shoalest part has 9 feet at low water; it lies in a direct line between the Beehive islet and the north extreme of Fish point, and bears

From Beehive islet - - - W. by N. 9/10 miles.
From Martello rock - - - S 3/4 E. 9/10 miles.
South point Bon Accord harbour (two peaked rocks) - - - S. b. W. 1/2 W. 1 mile.

If it is intended to pass to the eastward of the Albert shoal, between it and Beehive islet, the channel is more than half a mile broad, and the least water 3 1/2 fathoms. After passing Passage reef, and bringing the north end of Kaitu-kala to bear S. by E. 1/2 E., steer for Momona point or on a course between it and the Martello rock, for the harbour; this will lead clear to the eastward of the shoal more than a quarter of a mile.

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KAWAU ISLAND.--MAURHANGI HARBOUR.

ORA ISLAND lies S.S.W., a mile from the South Kaitu-kala: its S.W. point bears from Wanga point N.W. 1/2 N. 5 1/2 miles, and from the entrance of Maurhangi harbour E. 1/2 N. 2 1/2 miles; it is 1 1/4 miles long, about 300 feet high, and lies in a N.W. and S.E. direction, with some rocky patches extending off its N.E. and east points nearly a cable's length.

INNER CHANNEL.--Between Ora, and the Kaitu-kala islands, and the mainland, is the inshore channel to Bon Accord harbour, and Kawau bay; and for vessels coming from the southward through the Wangaproa channel, it is the easiest and most convenient, particularly with a working wind, as from the south point of Ora island to Fish point there is a clear working channel of 1 1/2 miles wide, with from 7 to 9 fathoms.

In working from the southward vessels may pass between Ora island and the south Kaitu-kala if convenient, there being deep water, and a channel of nearly a mile in width; but the small passage between the Kaitu-kala islands should not be taken, unless with the wind directly through.

KAWAU BAY.--With the exception of the reefs between the Mayne islands, there are no dangers in this bay: outside a line from Fish point to Mata Kana river there is a general depth of from 4 to 7 fathoms over sandy bottom: inside this line the water shoals to 3 and 2 fathoms, except in the bay immediately to the westward of Fish point, where there is snug anchorage in 4 and 5 fathoms, with southerly winds. Coasters alone may pass between the Mayne islands; there is a reef in the centre of the passage, and another nearly joining it, extending from the north end of the south island, leaving a passage between of half a cable's length broad, with 2 fathoms. There is a wider passage between the middle reef and the north island; these reefs, and the deepest channels will be seen at low water.

MAURHANGI HARBOUR 10 and RIVER.--The next harbour southward of Bon Accord, and six miles distant from it, is Maurhangi, on the main land. The entrance may be known by the small saddle-shaped island, Whora, which lies a little more than half a mile distant from it: this, and Ora island afford good protection to the harbour from easterly winds.

Whora island lies N.W. by W. 61/2 miles from the extreme of the Wangaproa peninsula, and W. by S. If miles from the south end of Ora island. Vessels bound to Maurhangi should steer to the southward of both these islands, and passing the south end of Whora, within a quarter of a mile, a course should be steered direct in between the heads.

The south head is wooded, and has a small conical islet (Kiahou)lying 2 cables' lengths north of it, connected by a reef; shoal water extends half a cable's length off this islet.

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The north head, Sadler point, a steep green point without trees, should not be approached nearer than a cable's length, as a shallow sandy spit extends from it; the clear channel between the heads is little more than half a mile in width, with from 5 to 8 fathoms water.

Strangers entering Maurhangi harbour are liable to mistake the arm which runs immediately north from Sadler point, for the main harbour: there is shoal water however, in this arm, a short distance within the line of the points. The direct course up is N.W. 1/2 W. for the peninsula of Manga noui, which is high and makes as an island; it bears N. W. 1/2 W. from the North head distant 1 1/2 miles; between this peninsula and the south shore is the best anchorage for large vessels, with the centre of Manga Noui bearing N. by E., in 7 fathoms muddy bottom; the channel here is scarcely half a mile wide. Westward of Manga Noui is another arm, running to the N.N.W., with shoal water a short distance within its entrance points.

There is anchorage in 5 fathoms, three quarters of a mile above Manga Noui; immediately above this anchorage it shoals, with flats drying at low water; boats can ascend the river several miles with the tide.

Kauri forests exist near the head of the river; H.M.S. Buffalo procured many spars from them.

There is a narrow passage into Maurhangi harbour from the northward between Whora island and the main; a reef of rocks extends off the northern end of the island in a northerly direction for nearly a quarter of a mile, leaving the passage one-third of a mile wide, with 5 and 6 fathoms water: the reef is dry at low water, and there are 3 1/2 fathoms close to its edge; the winds in this passage, are generally baffling, and, unless when blowing directly through, it is not desirable for anything but coasters.

Southward of the harbour there is a detached rock, uncovered 6 feet at low water, distant 4 cables' lengths from the nearest shore; from it Kiahou islet bears N. b. W. 1 mile distant, and Whora island south extreme N.N.E. 1/4 E. 1 1/2 miles.

TIDES. --It is high water at Mauranghi on full and change days at 7h 0m, and the tides range from 4 to 10 feet.

To the southward of Maurhangi harbour the coast trends S. by W. 5 miles into the bight which lies to the westward of Wangaproa peninsula: this coast, on which are some hot springs, has several rocky ledges and detached reefs lying off it, and should not be approached within half a mile, at which distance 6 fathoms will be found; these dangers can be seen in the day time. Vessels may anchor in this bight, in from 8 to 14 fathoms, with westerly or southerly winds, but its head should not be approached within a mile, as the water shoals to 4 fathoms, and flats extend a long distance

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MAURHANGI HARBOUR.--WANGAPROA PENINSULA.

off; with strong N.E. winds vessels should not get embayed here, as a heavy sea sets in.

WANGAPROA PENINSULA extends from the main land in a N.E. by E. direction for 5 miles, and is nearly separated in two places by deep bays running in on both sides. Its eastern face and Tiri Tiri island forms the Wangaproa channel; this channel has already been described (see p. 12.)

Wanga point, the N.E. extreme of this peninsula, has shelving tidal rocks extending off it to the N.E., one third of a mile, which are steep-to; a sunken rock with 9 feet, and 6 fathoms close to it, lies from the shore westward of Wanga point, nine tenths of a mile; it lies off the northern edge of an outlying reef, dry at low water springs, between which latter and the shore there is a narrow channel with 3 1/2 fathoms. From this sunken rock, Wanga point bears S. E. by E. 3/4 E., 1 mile, and the high rock off the north end of Tiri Tiri island E. 3/4 N., 3 1/4 miles.

On the southern side of Wangaproa peninsula is good anchorage, in 6 fathoms, with northerly winds, in a sandy bay about a mile from the S.E. extreme; 1 1/2 miles further west is another bay, off whose western extreme is a rock out of water, lying a quarter of a mile from the shore.

TOFINO BAY is the western bight; here there is anchorage in 5 to 6 fathoms with northerly and westerly winds; at the head of the bay are two small rivers, the northern has 3 feet water on its bar at low water, and 2 fathoms inside; it is navigable some miles for small coasters: the southern river is dry at low water. Three miles to the southward of these rivers is a reef of rocks extending three quarters of a mile off the shore, dry at low water: from this reef to the north head of Auckland harbour there are no dangers, and the coast may be safely approached within half a mile.

FRITH OF THAMES.

Cape Colville, the eastern limit of the Hauraki gulf, is the northern extremity of a peninsula more than 40 miles in length, the western shores of which form the eastern boundary of the Frith of Thames. Throughout the whole length of this peninsula runs a chain of high and wooded mountains (2000 feet), rising abruptly from the sea on either shore.

The entrance of the Frith of Thames is 16 miles in breadth from cape Colville to Waiheki island, with uniform soundings of 22 to 26 fathoms mud, gradually decreasing to the bar of the River Thames.

COROMANDEL HARBOUR 11 (Waihou), is 20 miles S.S.E. of cape Colville, and 14 miles E.N.E. from the eastern entrance of the Waiheki channel. Its position is well marked by a remarkable hill with a square

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rocky crest, Castle hill which lies 3 miles eastward of the head of the harbour, and may be seen for many miles, attaining an elevation of about 2,000 feet: the entrance will also be easily known by the small round islet Tuhuia, lying 1 1/4 miles immediately west of it; a smaller rock lies a quarter of a mile south of Tuhuia: there are likewise three islands to the N.W. of the north head, each from half a mile to a mile in extent, the extreme island being more than 3 miles distant. In entering, a vessel may pass on either side of Tuhuia, in deep water.

Coromandel harbour is formed on the north side by the peninsula of Waihou which is joined to the main by a narrow sandy neck, and on the south side by the main land: the harbour runs N.E. and S.W., is a mile wide at the entrance, and carries a depth exceeding 5 fathoms for 1 1/2 miles inside. The best anchorage is immediately round the S.E. point of the peninsula of Waihou, about 3 cables' lengths off shore in 4 fathoms: a quarter of a mile above this anchorage, the water shoals to 14 feet, and the large expanse of water at the head of the harbour has a depth of a little more than one fathom: there is also a shoal patch of 4 feet, 3 cables' lengths above the anchorage; it bears from the S.E. point of the Waihou peninsula N.E. three quarters of a mile, and from the sandy neck S.E. by E. the same distance; vessels in taking up an anchorage should not open out this sandy neck, they are then certain to be clear of the shoal patch, and in not less than 3 fathoms.

COAST BETWEEN CAPE COLVILLE AND COROMANDEL HARBOUR

The three islands which lie immediately N.W. of Coromandel harbour are Huieh, Waimaita, and Hoki. Huieh, the northernmost, is high and cliffy on its northern and western sides, terminating in a low shingle point to the eastward, and is half a mile in extent; a small islet lies a quarter of a mile north-eastward of this low point, and another one to the S.W. of its western point; there is also a rock above water a quarter of a mile off its south side.

Waimata, the middle island, a mile in length north and south, is a double island, connected at low water by a sandy neck; the northern portion is called Ko-puki. N.W. by W. 3 cables' lengths from the N.W. cliffy head of Waimata, is a reef of rocks covered at high water. The passage between Waimata and Huieh, has a clear 3 cables width, with a depth of 10 and 11 fathoms.

Hoki, the southernmost and the smallest island, is half a mile long, having a passage of nearly the same width between it and Waimata, with 14 fathoms water; a sunken rock lies half a cable's length off the southern end of the latter island. There is a passage for vessels between Hoki and the shore with 6 fathoms.

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FRITH OF THAMES.

Two miles northward of this group, is another chain of islands, extending: along the coast to the N.W. for 4 miles. Half a mile south of the southernmost island is a rock awash; the passage between it and Huieh is 1 1/2 miles wide, with 12 and 14 fathoms.

The northernmost of this chain of islands is a small islet lying S.W. by W. 3 1/2 miles from the south point of Cabbage bay, which is a small bay midway between cape Colville and Coromandel harbour, having 3 fathoms water in it, and open to the westward: there are several rocks lying among these islands, and strangers should not pass between them, except in the wide channel, where the dangers have been more particularly described. There is however a channel between them and the main land, a mile wide in its narrowest part, and through which a vessel can run in perfect safety for Coromandel harbour, carrying from 7 to 10 fathoms water.

From Cabbage bay the coast trends north-westerly for 10 miles to cape Colville, and is bold and cliffy, the mountains rising over the cape in two distinct peaks to a height of 2,800 feet.

TEKOMI HARBOUR.--Two small harbours lie immediately south of Coromandel harbour: the first, Tekomi, is 3 cables' lengths wide at its entrance, and is well sheltered by the island of Rangipuka, (three quarters of a mile long in a N.W. and S.E. direction,) lying close off its entrance; half a mile inside the heads of this harbour a vessel may anchor in 4 fathoms:--there are 3 fathoms three quarters of a mile inside, but above that, shoal water. Rangipuka may be passed on either side: the north side is the best, as a reef extends to the southward from the south end of the island for nearly 2 cables' lengths. 12

MENIA BAY, a mile south of Tekomi, is not so good an anchorage; the two islands, Wekarua, extend half a mile to the westward off its northern head, and there is anchorage in 3 1/2 fathoms, three quarters of a mile inside their outer extreme: this bay is open to westerly winds.

Deadman point is the southern entrance point of Menia bay, and from thence to the mouth of the Thames river, nearly 20 miles distant, the coast line is straight.

RIVER THAMES. (Waiho.)--The approach to the low lands of the Thames, is known by a dense white pine forest on its west bank, a mile from the mouth, and the white mission house on the east bank, elevated 75 feet.

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The bar, which extends 3 1/2 miles from the river's mouth, and 2 1/4 from the nearest east coast, has 5 feet at low water and 15 feet at high water springs. When the right extreme of the pine forest bears S.S.E. 1/2 E. and the mission house east, a vessel is on the bar, and Opani, the west entrance point, will bear S.E. by E. 3/4 E.; the channel from thence to the river is straight, one third of a mile wide, with a depth of 2 fathoms at low water, which depth can be carried to Kopu, 2 miles above Opani, and close to which shore the channel runs; a quarter of mile within Opani point is a shoal of 4 feet, but having a depth of 12 feet in the channel.

Vessels can anchor at Kopu in 12 to 15 feet at low water, where there is good landing. Vessels of 100 tons can reach Turua at half tide, 5 1/2 miles from Opani; here again is anchorage in 2 to 3 fathoms, but the channel is narrow.

From Turua the river turns suddenly to the eastward, and winds again southerly 7 1/2 miles, and there is not less than 4 feet at low water: here is the junction with the Hikutaia; from Hikutaia to Opita, 10 miles, the channel has not more than 2 feet at low water, and the tide may be said to end here; one mile beyond Opita, the channel is 100 feet wide. The banks of the River Thames are of very soft mud.

TIDES.--At Opani point it is high water, full and change, at 7h 35m; range of tide 10 feet, strength of tide 3 knots: at Turua 7h 59m, and at Hikutia 8h 34m, with a range of tide of 8 feet.

PIAKO RIVER, running nearly parallel with the Thames, has its entrance nearly 5 miles to the westward of that river; it is much smaller, and only navigable for boats at low water.

Besides these rivers, there are several creeks on the east side of the Frith of Thames navigable for boats at high water, and two creeks on the west shore.

WAIROA RIVER (between the Thames river and Auckland,) is 160 yards wide at the mouth; there is 1 foot at low water at the entrance, but within, the average depth is 6 to 4 feet, with a channel 125 yards wide. The first reach of half a mile has a depth of 6 feet, then 4 feet until 3 miles from the heads; above this it is shallow.

A beacon marks the entrance, where it is high water, full and change, at 7h 15m; range of tide 8 feet.

1   See Admiralty plan, No. 1791, by Mr. Halloran, R.N., 1845; scale, m = 10.0 inches.
2   See Admiralty plan No. 1092, by Captain Stokes, K.N.,--scale, m = 3.0 inches.
3   See Admiralty plan No. 1090, by M. Duperrey, 1824; scale m-- 1.2 inches.
4   See Admiralty plan, No. 2,024 by Captain Stokes, R.N., Scale, m = 1.2 inches.
5   See Admiralty plan, No. 1,275, 1849. Scale, m = 3.0 inches.
6   See Admiralty plan, No. 1,275, 1849. Scale, m == 3.0 inches.
7   See Admiralty plan No. 2,047, by Capt. Stokes, R N., 1849; scale, m =3.0 inches.
8   H.M.S.Calliope, in entering Wangari harbour for shelter from a S.E. gale, ran on this bank from not knowing the channel.
9   See Admiralty plan No. 1,998, by Capt. Stokes, R.N., 1849; scale, m = 2.7 inches.
10   See Admiralty plan No. 1,094, F. A. Cudlip, R.N. 1834: scale m = 1.5 inches
11   See Admiralty plan No. 2,035, by Captain Stokes, H.M.S. Acheron, 1850; scale, m = 2.0 inches.
12   See Admiralty plan of Coromandel harbour by Captain Stokes, R.N., 1850. Commander Drury, in describing this harbour in the New Zealand Government Gazette of July 5, 1855, remarks, "that the anchorage, 2 1/2 fathoms, is within the island of Rangipuka, one third of a mile from the entrance."

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