CHAPTER X. QUARANTINE--CONCLUSION.
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CHAPTER X.
QUARANTINE--CONCLUSION.
MONDAY, AUGUST 14TH. --We are excessively disgusted; here we are actually in the lazaretto! Yesterday afternoon we entered this hateful quarantine harbour, and the doctor went off in a boat to the quarantine station, to certify that there was no cholera among us, and that we had what they call a clean bill of health; after a long parley, however, he returned with the yellow flag flying at the boat's stern, and the information that we must remain till Wednesday morning. Great was the indignation and disappointment expressed on every face; here we were expecting that in half an hour more we should be on shore, and most had arranged their plans for going on towards their homes the same evening, with all things packed and on deck ready for immediate disembarkation, when this report reached us. Some would not believe it, and said it must be a mistake; others thought the captain and doctor were "chaffing" us; at last, however, as conviction came upon us that it was really the fact, a remonstrance was sent off to some higher authority on shore. The suspense was great, until after an absence of nearly three hours the boat was seen returning without the dreadful yellow flag. A hurrah of joy greeted the doctor, who told us we were freed, and at liberty to go on board a small steamer which was alongside taking off cargo; carpet-bags and portmanteaus were instantly seized by their owners, and
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a wild rush made towards the gangway: when, lo! the master of the said steamer refused to let anyone go on hoard, saying he had received no authority to take them, and dared not do so; the authority to us to go did not affect him; he must have his orders before he could receive us; and to put an end to the angry discussion that followed, he put off from the ship's side, but remained at a short distance, while a boat was again dispatched to get the required order. The answer now returned was that we were not permitted to land; the permission had been given under a mistake, and a superseded telegram from Paris--there having been a second one rescinding it; this at least was the best account we could learn of the matter. No one seemed to know the rights of it, if rights there were, but to us it seemed nothing but wrong, and the anger and excitement were great. However, we were prisoners, and there was no help for it. Nothing was so comfortable now on board either; we had to pay for everything we eat or drank, and could get little attention; for stewards and stewardesses having received their fees, when we thought we were leaving, knew that they had no more to expect. Soon after "one bell" (half-past four o'clock) the next morning (Monday), my cabin became brilliantly illuminated with a vivid flash of lightning, and then a series of them in such quick succession, that it was in fact but one long vibrating flash, accompanied by the most awfully-loud crashes of thunder I ever heard; and the rain pouring down in torrents. I thought of all our baggage exposed on deck and no one to care for it, or for mine at least, as I had no one to send to see to its being covered up. A bright morning succeeded, but there was little inducement to go on deck; it was wretched to see one's self shut in, in that quarantine harbour, with barren rocks all round, and ships (for aught we knew infected ones), all with their yellow flags flying close to us on both sides; we also had had to hoist the hateful flag, though we were all well save one; he was dying of weakness and ship-life, they said. The
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only object of interest or curiosity to be seen--we had already been tired of looking at the day before--it was the dreadful Chateau d'If, on its rock in the sea.
This morning the order came that we were to be taken to the lazaretto. Immediately after breakfast, therefore, the ship's boats, five or six of them, all with their yellow flags flying, began taking off the passengers.
The authorities seemed determined to give all the annoyance and trouble possible, for after the boats had been absent some time, and we were expecting them back empty for the rest of us, we saw them all returning full as they left, and rowing over to the opposite side of the harbour, where each had to stop for a moment or two and then set off again. We who were still on board were rather amused by the sight, and called it a regatta, and it really did look pretty to see all these white, four-oared boats rowing together in the sunshine. At length our turn came, and we, from the experience gained, rowed off at once in the contrary direction from the lazaretto before going to it. The meaning of this senseless piece of annoyance was, as they said, that we might be counted, but it certainly did not seem to me that we were counted, and if it were only the boats that were to be counted, they could have done that as they left the ship without making us go out of our way. Well, at length we emerged out of this confined and dreary harbour, passed between the Chateau d'If and another sharp point of rock, round which was a little bay or cove in which we were landed, and had then to walk up a rather steep road in the rock, covered with sharp loose stones; extremely disagreeable and fatiguing.
As we mounted we saw our fellow-passengers on the terrace of the prison-like building above us, and were greeted with loud cheers of welcome from them. Our aristocracy shared the same fate as the rest; but not so the Pasha and his suite, who were visitors to the Emperor Louis Napoleon, and were on their way to the grand fete in Paris, which was to take place the follow-
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ing day in commemoration of the battle of Austerlitz. He had telegraphed to Paris on our, first arrival, and loud were the expressions of indignation, when it was reported that he was to be allowed to proceed; since he and his suite were in fact more likely to be infected than any one else on board; having been resident in the infected country. If this injustice was meditated, however, the permission was afterwards rescinded, and the only difference finally made was, that he was allowed to remain on the ship, instead of coming into the lazaretto; and this was bad enough, for so stringent was the order with regard to every one else, that even the apparently-dying man was brought in his bed, eight sailors toiling with the burden up the rock; a most inhuman act, and the wonder was that the poor sufferer did not die on the transit. If such measures were necessary at all, it seemed certainly to be a most inconsiderate and senseless proceeding to exempt any, and many were the threats "of writing to the papers" as soon as the aggrieved parties should reach their journey's end.
We saw no more of the invalid, who was carried at once into the hospital department of the lazaretto, and was left there when we departed. This is an extensive building, formed like its neighbour, the Chateau d'If, of the rock on which it stands; it is built round the four sides of a square, within which are the several railed in and gated yards of the different divisions. In the centre stands a small chapel (Roman Catholic, of course, and there is also a resident priest), the entrance to which is by a high flight of steps. On the right hand, after entering the gates, is the side called "Pavilion St. Roche," in which I was located, opposite is the "Pavilion Belzunce" (whatever that may mean); then comes on one side, Bains, and on the other, "Bains de Mer," but these were said, by those who explored them, to be delusions, their being no bains at all in the case. Then there is the "Pavilion Chevalier Rose," and another; also "Pavilion d'Administration et logement du Capitaine de l'aumonier et du medicin," and various other odd-
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looking places. Occupying the further end is the restaurant. There are several wells in the yards, and pretty good water--every one has to draw for themselves. It was amusing enough to see all, myself included, going to the wells with our minute jugs and basins (more like cream-jugs and tea-cups), and filling both to the brim out of the buckets, some of which let the water out almost as quickly from the bottom as the top; and. bearing off our dripping loads to our rooms, I must do the gentlemen the justice to say that they never allowed me to draw my own water from the well. Every one seemed determined now to get all the fun they could out of their misfortunes: all had arrived rather hungry, for it was past our luncheon hour, and we were told that the dejeune would not be till half-past two, so we sat on the front terrace, some playing cards or chess (they had borrowed these from the ship), others engaged in hop-scotch, and one enterprising individual, having gone exploring and finding some empty bottles, was loudly cheered as he returned with his booty, and the bottles set up one by one at a distance to be aimed at and knocked over with stones; this appeared to be a most exciting and popular game. We had a very intelligent Turk of our party, who entered into, and seemed much to enjoy the English games. At length a loud hurrah and prolonged clapping of hands announced the appearance of three men coming up the rock from a boat, bearing each a hamper, one with wine, one with coals, and the other, as we supposed, provisions. The Frenchmen looked not a little astonished and bewildered at these riotous demonstrations.
All the windows in front, overlooking the sea and Marseilles beyond it, are strongly guarded with iron bars, precisely like a prison. In front of our terrace is a low fort; to the left stony rocks; to the right the Chateau d'If; the sea all round us; and Marseilles, spread out to view like a panorama, with its rather barren-looking hills as a background, and Notre Dame
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on the top of a high eminence to the right of the town, and overlooking it, it might be called a pretty view, if one were in a mood to admire it; but when I observed upon this fact to my companions, they indignantly refused their approval, and, pointing to the hated yellow flag floating above us on the terrace, replied, "Who could find anything to admire with that detestable thing flying over our heads!" Precisely at half-past two all besieged the restaurant, seizing each upon a seat at one of the three long tables placed in contiguous rooms. These tables we found covered with coarse towels, pieces of calico, etc., and another coarse towel placed to each plate by way of napkin, all very dingy looking. We were twenty-four at our table, and about twenty at each of the others. The only provisions at present on the board were loaves, pickles, and vin ordinaire; the latter tasting very like red ink and water. While we waited there was time to discover defects, and presently a murmur arose of, "Clean your forks." On inspection all found this to be highly necessary, and went vigorously to work. "Yes, and knives too," cried another voice, and all began rubbing their knives. On further examination it was found that plates and tumblers were all in like condition, and a ridiculous scene went on for some minutes, amidst roars of laughter, some scrubbing desperately at their plates, others at their glasses--all working away with a ludicrous energy. This operation concluded, and still no dishes appearing, the loaves were seized, chopped up, and nearly demolished; next began an imperative clatter of knives upon bottles and glasses, which speedily spread round the tables, and such a din was made as must have rather astonished our keepers. This was continued until a garcon entered with a single omelet--loud cheers and clapping of hands greeted it. It happened to be put down opposite to me, I plunged my knife and fork into it, helped myself, and passed it on. It did not go far, and groaning and renewed clamour commenced, until another and soon another appeared; every entree being greeted
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with cheers and clapping of hands; and every pause in the supplies with groans and cries of garcon. Dish followed upon dish of various kinds, and all tolerably good, excepting the unripe pears and peaches, which, with the sour vin, were certainly enough to develope any latent symptoms of cholera, had such lurked among us. Many of the gentlemen called for Bordeaux, Burgundy, and Champagne, which were all forthcoming; or at least liquids which were called by those names.
The afternoon was spent upon the terrace rather wearily, until dinner at half-past seven, after which we found the gates were fastened, and we were locked in for the night--an absurd precaution which excited much discontent, since escape would have been impossible, even had there been no gates at all. Our dinner-tables had been lighted by three or four candles each, of rushlight thinness, stuck in bed-room crockery candlesticks, and no other lights were provided; but the gentlemen made a raid upon the domestic departments, found the candle depot, and brought forth handfuls, which they distributed. I then sought and found a candlestick for myself; got a present of matches from one of the gentlemen, and, thus armed, proceeded to my sleeping-room-- a good-sized lofty stone apartment, with whitewashed walls and rough-tiled floor, without a scrap of mat or carpet, a French window, grimed with the dust of years, and jalousie shutters outside, which appeared as though they had never been opened since the place was built. The room smelt vault-like and musty, and my first care was to get the window forced open--a difficult matter, as it was stuck fast with dirt and cobwebs; but it and the jalousies both yielded at last to persevering efforts. Two apparently quite new sheets, a ditto particularly nice blanket, and a coarse towel, of the same sort as those on the dinner-tables, were put into the room; and I had to make the bed myself. There was a small hard bolster and no pillow; on my applying for one I was told there was not such a thing in the whole establishment; but after much difficulty I procured another
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exceedingly bad bolster, and had to do the best I could with these. The furniture in this room, though mostly very old and shabby (the damask-covered sofa and armchair having been eaten into large holes by moths or mice), had once been handsome, and formed an incongruous medley with the prison-like walls and floor. Everything was covered deep in dust, and the ceiling festooned with cobwebs, where the unmolested spiders had long enjoyed their homes in perfect peace. No mosquito-net, of course, nor any trace of anyone's having ever had even the idea of hanging one; yet mosquitoes there were in great abundance, and as hungry as might have been expected.
On descending the next morning at nine o'clock, I found everyone clamouring for coffee, and seizing upon any loaves they could find, as breakfast was not to be till eleven, and we were informed we were to have but two meals a-day. I followed the general example, therefore, and helped myself; but no milk could be found for our coffee. At the hour appointed a plentiful dejeune was served; but in a most uncivilized style. At all these meals you have to help yourself to everything with your own knife and fork. The salt and pepper are in saucers, and you must dig your knife into them to procure any--those who are prudent placing a small stock of the same on the cloth beside their plate for future emergencies. The coarse towels on yesterday's dinner-table, though much the worse for that service, had to do duty again to-day. We had our choice between bad milkless coffee, and sour wine, as drinkables; though neither in fact were so.
At twelve o'clock an order came that all the baggage was to go back to the ship in an hour's time, and that we ourselves were to return on board the next morning, and to be taken into Marseilles. Another order at the same time arrived to the effect that we were all to be close locked up within the courtyard, and the gates on to the terrace to be kept closed; because two or three of our gentlemen had got into a boat, that came with pro-
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visions yesterday, and taken a row round the rock. They were seen and reported, and they were thought lucky not to have been fired, on from the fort. This was an additional vexation for the time, as the terrace was the only part of the whole place that could be called in any way pleasant. The yard could only be compared to a large frying-pan, with the hot sun pouring down into it, and reflected from the white stone buildings all round. However, the authorities made rather an Irish blunder in issuing these two orders together; for as the gates had to be opened to let the baggage through, we naturally all took the opportunity of going through also; the people in charge could not very well prevent this; they, therefore, only requested that none would attempt to descend from the terrace; and this, I believe, was strictly complied with; and (as if to reward us for our compliance in this respect) the gates were even left open till late that night, and we remained out watching the splendid fireworks going on from all parts of Marseilles and the country round, in honour of the Austerlitz commemoration; they were of every imaginary colour and shade, and lighted up the whole port with their brilliancy.
All the baggage was tumbled back into boats, and reconveyed to the ship. Was anything ever more absurd than this unshipping and reshipping of such an immense quantity of goods for so short a time; many of them being enormous packages from India, which had, of course, never been opened, nor had before left the hold of the ship since they were put on board. The labour and fatigue to the poor sailors, too, under the hot sun, was great. A subscription was raised among us and handed to them, as some compensation.
The same dirty cloths and dirty everything else appeared at dinner this day; the same cleaning and clatter, and slowly-arriving single dishes, beginning with weak, greasy broth, with slices of bread floating in it, followed by the bouilli from which it was made. There was also a most uninviting-looking leg of mutton, from which
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people had to help themselves with their own knives and forks, and pour the gravy out of the dish into their plates. Those who performed these ceremonies were unrewarded, for they found the meat too tough to be eatable. There was no pastry and no vegetables, save some half-fried chopped-up potatoes, with which, the feast wound up after the meat was removed. Why this establishment should be so exceedingly ill ordered, it is difficult to say.
There is no attendance whatever in the bed-rooms. Everyone has to make their own bed, and perform all other necessary offices for themselves. The charges, too, are enormous, considering what the accommodation and food is (to say nothing of being there against one's own will). We had to pay four and a half francs each for our beds (two nights); sixteen francs each for board (all extra wines charged exorbitantly); and half a franc for a cup of wretched coffee without milk, each cup being very small, and of such peculiar thickness as certainly not to hold more than a wine-glass full.
By four o'clock the following morning the gentlemen were for the most part astir, and I heard them in the square drawing their water at the wells, laughing and talking with more than usual excitement; for notice had been received the previous day that the ship's boats would come for us at six a. m., and all were in high spirits at the thought that we should now really be off soon, and all our troubles over. A gentleman who slept in the next room to mine thundered at the door as he passed, but I was up already; and punctually at the appointed hour, the boats were at the foot of the rock awaiting us.
As the last passenger of the last boat-load stepped on board, the "Massilia" hauled down her yellow flag, amid a general "hurrah!" and at once got under weigh, while all went below with light hearts to a happy parting breakfast.
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