CHAPTER V
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CHAPTER V.
Continuation of our Journey -- Native Cemetery -- Arrival at Tetaita -- Flax Houses -- Sojourn in a deserted Village -- Pursue our Route -- The Scenery -- Arrive at the Banks of the River Kaihu -- Embark in three Canoes -- Meet with adverse Weather -- One of the Provision Canoes upsets -- Sojourn for the Night on a Bank of Mud -- Singular Alarm -- Pursue our Voyage in the dark -- Are taken for Enemies -- Meet with a Sacred Embassy -- Native Superstitions -- Arrive at Maungakahia -- Amusements in the Village -- Curiosity and Manners of the Natives.
WE then repassed much of the ground we had travelled over the preceding day, recrossed several times the river which runs up to the foot of the village, and several streams that were new to me. The soil in these parts was a deep rich black mould, covered with decayed vegetable matter. Unwilling to lose the benefit we might derive from passing these woods, I gave muskets, shot, and powder to two of our best marksmen, Tamaroa and Parre, the latter a native wit, who kept
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NEW ZEALAND CEMETERY.
his comrades in continual good-humour; he was very clever in imitations, affording us all much merriment by the smartness of his replies.
The bush abounded with pigeons of splendid plumage and delicious flavour; the rivers were prolific with wild ducks, the summer being the season they are found in greatest number. The sportsmen took their own paths, previously appointing Tetaita, a flax village belonging to Pa-rore, as our head-quarters.
We passed an extensive grove containing a Wai-tapu. In this place was deposited the bones of a male and female chief of Kaipara.
The house which enclosed these remains of mortality was built of old canoes, that, having belonged to the deceased, were not allowed to be
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SUPERSTITIOUS FEELINGS
used after their death. It was much in shape of a large watch-box, with a shelving roof, slanting like a skilling, which it resembled. It was surmounted with a maihi, or frontispiece, which was decorated with feathers.
The house was enclosed with a compact fence, on which was fastened, with wooden pegs, large pieces of canoe boards, with hieroglyphics denoting the tattooed marks on the body of the deceased.
This was the largest Wai-tapu I had seen; the whole was painted with kokowai. My natives, on passing this sepulchre of the departed, closed near to each other; at this moment a little kori-maku bird struck up its vocal powers with its tone as clear as a musical glass. Wata turned to me and said, "That is the god of the New Zealanders; he warns us not to come near the Wai-tapu; let us walk quick, and avoid his anger." I acceded to his wish, determined, as far as lay in my power, to comply with the customs of this singular people. I attempted by argument to prove the erroneous ideas he entertained of a merciful Creator. I inquired, who were the native gods? "Our chiefs," replied my informant; "who have been renowned men in this life; whose spirits become immortal, and who busy themselves in the affairs of their descend-
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OF THE NATIVES.
ants while in this existence." I inquired how the chiefs had died who were mouldering in the Wai-tapu we had passed? Wata stated the chief had fallen in battle, but his body had been recovered by his friends, who had severed it in several pieces, and conveyed it home in baskets; his wife, on hearing of his untimely fate, had immolated herself by hanging.
We continued our route amid high jungles of flax bushes, and soon arrived on the borders of a forest, whose densely covered soil produced the various trees common to those parts. Some were of the largest magnitude, their branches covered with umbrageous foliage, the soil being impervious to the sun's ray; but little herbage grew on the land, which was rank from the continual moisture of decayed vegetation.
We passed some sheds covered with nikau, or palm-leaf branches, that had been erected for the night by some native travellers. The underwood and high straggling tree-roots rendered the paths almost impossible to pass. On emerging from this wood, we were dazzled for some time after quitting its darkness, by approaching the plain, where the sun shone with splendour. Wata pointed out a bush, from which he produced a small iron trypot, that had been secreted there, and purchased from the Europeans.
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PURSUE OUR ROUTE.
The plain we next passed over was perfectly level, containing many thousand acres, and was much more extensive than I was led to believe at first view: it was covered with ferns (kaikatoa) and elderberry bushes. Some clumps of trees gave the place the appearance of beautiful shrubberies. The hills on each side were distant and irregular, but apparently well covered with useful timber. Another swamp terminated at the end of the plain: this was literally filled with flax; which, being in flower, produced a pleasing effect.
We soon gained another plain, on which the flax leaves were so high, as to render it almost impenetrable. We soon arrived at Tetaita, a village belonging to Parore. In this place was erected three large flax-houses, filled with scraped flax of various qualities. One house contained some tons of hungahunga, or silken flax; the others with muka maori, or common native flax. We met with a few natives in this village who testified much surprise at seeing me: they were related to my party. I congratulated myself they did not appear in a crying humour, so I was saved the discord of the tangi, though one old dame commenced whimpering: she was a slave. On perceiving Koruhana, who was her master's niece, she would fain have cried, but gave it up,
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FLAX HOUSES.
as she met with no encouragement, and none felt inclined for the luxury of being miserable.
A party of mongrels who appertained to these people, who were principally slaves, commenced with the usual vociferation of their tribe; but our two Achates, who brought up the rear, soon silenced these degenerate curs. A pretty wind-ing stream ran past the village, which was early vacated by the party who preceded us, who took to their canoes, and were soon out of sight. Here we encamped for dinner. Our two marksmen did not join us here, which did not give me any uneasiness, as they knew where we intended passing the night. The iron pot was found to be serviceable; and, after it had cooked the necessary provisions, was placed in a basket and reserved for my especial use. The flax-houses in this village were nearly eighty feet in length, and thirty feet in breadth. They were put together by poles and raupo, and the lower parts were open, with only poles placed across. The whole of the prepared flax was tapued, and of course safe from depredation.
After resting an hour, including dinner, we resumed our travel. The scenery, as we continued our route, was very similar to that we had previously passed; the only variety we saw was on a particularly elevated plain, where no
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KAURI GUM.
forest was in view; and the nearest that approached the vicinity of the plain was at least one hundred and thirty feet lower in descent than the plain; yet we saw large masses of Kauri gum buried in the earth. What revolution of the elements could have brought the bitumen to these elevated plains, where it was strewed in abundance, it is impossible to conceive. The natives could give no account of its having been brought there. Patches of low forest-land were observable in various parts of these plains, and a number of swamps abounding in flax. The substratum of the hills was sandstone, which was here found in large quantities. The marshes were filled with a wiry grass called hiwi.
At sunset we arrived at Otapanihu, where we found our absentees, who had killed fifteen large pigeons, and a quantity of parrots, hawks, &c. The birds had been well plucked and cleaned; fires were kindled, and three houses erected, --one for the retinue, one for Kaka's family, and a third for myself. Hastily as these houses had been constructed, they were impervious to wind and rain.
This station had been formerly a nourishing village, where the navigable part of the Kaihu river commences; now, every place in the vicinity is deserted, the former tribes that existed
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NIGHT BIVOUAC.
in this spot having been entirely destroyed. Their name is yet remembered, but none now living bear it.
In addition to the fare set before me at supper, a quantity of rito, or hearts of the palm-tree, were also included. This vegetable, which is eaten uncooked, makes a salad unequalled for its excellent flavour, and is held in much esteem by the people. The parasitical fruit tawora was also produced. It was a matter for astonishment, how so much could have been procured by our two foragers in so short an absence. The birds, which were excellent, drew upon our sportsmen unqualified applause. I distributed biscuit and tobacco to the party, which added to the general satisfaction that was displayed by every one.
Supper was not hastily discussed; and after all had enjoyed themselves to repletion, which my people invariably did whenever the chance offered, a haka commenced, in which the four females in our party acquitted themselves to perfection. Wrestling matches followed, wherein the men displayed much strength, but little of the tact which so much aids these encounters; and I fell asleep during one of the drawling nasal songs peculiar to the people. The words were composed for the occasion, in which our adven-
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EVENING AMUSEMENTS.
tures formed the theme. Koruhana was the im-provvisatrice; wherein she described the white man sailing over the boundless ocean, who would have been swallowed up by the waves but for the shielding arm of the New Zealand Taniwoa, who had conducted him to these shores. Our journey was then described in this chant, which, if it possessed any melody, arose from the sweet tones of Koruhana, whose voice required but cultivation to become both rich and powerful. She was joined occasionally by the group around her, in a chorus so much in unison, that I perceived it was an old chant to a new subject.
The appearance of these people gave a highly romantic effect to the scene. They had seated themselves in a circle round an immense fire, that glared on their expressive countenances, some of which yet displayed the red marks of the kokowai put on in the morning. Koruhana, stood erect in the circle; and, as the subject animated her, accompanied the song with action. Thus, in describing the waves of the sea -- its effect on a ship -- she reeled her body, to typify the uneasy motion of a vessel. When her song had ceased, Puhi struck up his vocal powers in the chorus common among the people. This piece is invariably sung in a whining, drawling,
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ENTER OUR CANOES.
disagreeable tone; the soporific effect of which, as I have stated, soon composed me to sleep.
At the earliest dawn, I was awakened by the sweet voices of the many beautiful birds, that literally filled the bushes, whose varied notes echoed throughout the adjacent bush until sunrise. It was a lovely morning: the heavy dews that had fallen during the night gave a freshness to every thing in nature. At 5 A.M. we started from our resting-place; and, after a short travel, soon arrived at the place where the canoes lay anchored amid a quantity of reeds alongside the banks of the Kaihu.
These native boats had nothing particular to recommend them. The largest was appropriated for me, and a seat was constructed in the centre. They were without topsides, and, when loaded, were within two inches of the water, so that the least restlessness of any sitter within filled them with the fluid. For my own part, I had been much used to this sort of conveyance, being similar to the pirogues in which I had formerly made passages within the island of Madagascar. As soon as we were all seated in our places, the three canoes started in company, and were steered down the river with great rapidity.
Our helmsmen commenced the usual boat-chant, which, with trifling practice, enables every
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NATIVE BOAT RACE.
person to keep exact time with his paddle; the singer is joined occasionally in a chorus by those who keep stroke, at which time additional force is given to the paddle. The celerity with which a canoe is made to pursue its course often astonishes the stranger.
We soon left Otapanihu behind us. The river took a devious course, and was at this place very narrow; our canoes were also much impeded in their progress by the many branches and stumps of trees that had fallen in the water, and blocked the course of the unfrequented river. In one place an immense rata tree had fallen across, and caused us all to quit the canoes, and draw them over this broad impediment. After we had passed the distance of a few miles, we got clear of these annoyances; and the stream which had hitherto been but a few yards in breadth, now expanded to some width.
Here we commenced an animated race, in which the females displayed equal agility with the males, joining in chorus, and keeping the necessary time required. I also amused myself by paddling, which is fatiguing at the commencement; but a little practice accustoms any person to the exertion.
Hitherto the banks on either side presented
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DESERTED VILLAGES.
solely flax bushes, whose tall waving leaves rose to the height of twelve feet; the shale growing between the tufts, which bear the flowers and seed, rising to the height of twenty feet, which overhung the sides of this silent river. Here was an article growing in wild, luxuriant abundance, amply sufficient to employ the energies of thousands of a civilised, industrious people; but this place was deserted, and not an inhabitant was to be seen. The very names of many tribes, originally belonging to the soil, had passed away from human remembrance.
Several places we passed were pointed out to me as having been particularly populous. The only remembrance left of human beings having tenanted the place, were a few rotten sticks and decayed rushes, and, in various spots, pieces of old canoes standing perpendicular and solitary, grotesquely carved, as a monument to an illustrious man departed. These deserted spots -- villages no more -- from the lone, unbroken silence around, gave me sensations undefinably unpleasant. "Where," I inquired, musingly, "is the stirring haka, the tangi of affection, the agile dance, and shout of merriment?" I was answered by the plaintive ti-ti-ti of the Kori-maku bird, who sat perched on a raoui, whose
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SPIRITED DIVERSIONS.
original carving had long since been obliterated, and covered with ivylike moss.
The canoes were hastily paddled past this spot, as the poor Korimaku was instantly recognised as the Atua, or spirit, of the chief, whose bones had been buried long since in the sepulchre below. I was told by Tamaroa, who was well learned in the traditions of these parts, that the monument we had just passed had been erected to the memory of a great warrior chief of Kaipara, named Tamiteri, who had fallen in battle, fighting the tribes of Waikato. His body had been recovered, but the head had been purloined by the enemy, who had preserved it after the native fashion. It was added, he had become a river-god, and kept at this station, upsetting canoes, and playing divers feats of a similar nature, such as causing the river at times to be impassable, by raising heavy swells, as some satisfaction for the detention of his head.
It reminded me of the civilised traditions of those veritable saints, St. Denis and St. Patrick. Our companions in the canoe listened with the most eager attention to the truths uttered by this chorographer.
When this object was no longer in view, the paddling suddenly ceased, and a consultation
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SUPERSTITION,
was held as to what the departed Tamiteri had said in the form of the korimaku. The conclusions of these people were various; some construed the communication into an approaching storm; others were divided on the opposite side of the question, conceiving it signified a calm: so that either course of weather would give just pretensions to the Atua's predictions. I congratulated myself that the bird had carolled with its usual clear note; for I verily believe, had his throat evinced any hoarseness, it would have caused us no little delay. I became continually fearful of the croaking of frogs, who congregate in the adjoining marshes in great numbers, from the ridiculous superstitions of these people.
After paddling about five hours, we landed at a deserted village called Nagnereri. During the progress we had made in our travel, the banks of the country were covered with dense flax bushes, which apparently nourished as luxuriantly in the most exposed as well as sheltered situations--in marshy or alluvial soils--the most argillaceous or tophacious spots. The dinner was soon prepared, and I sat down with an appetite that bade fair to rival that of my messmates, who did ample justice to the repast. After our packages were ready to be placed in
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COMPLACENT FEELINGS OF THE DOGS.
the canoes, a deputation waited on me, requesting I would stay at this place for the night, though the ebb-tide was in our favour. This petition arose from the fears engendered by the lay of the Korimaku; I arose from the tree I sat upon, and ordered them to make ready to depart immediately.
I was reluctantly obeyed; but it was supposed, as the Europeans had never given Tamiteri cause of offence, when living on earth, it was unlikely his spirit would trouble them; we accordingly took our places in the canoes. Koruhana, her brother, and the kuri dogs, who appeared to thrive well on the expedition, occupied places in my canoe. These faithful animals had never been so well fed before; instead of the prickly husk of the Indian corn, which defied mastication, they now fattened on fish and meat; and their former perquisites, consisting of the thin parings of the potato and kumera, was supplanted by the vegetables entire, on which they nourished with evident marks of self-satisfaction.
We again hastened on our course, leaving the long river of Wairoa to our right, which led to the mouth of the Kaipara, and entered with our canoes the river of Mangakahia, whose tortuous course flowed full forty miles further, trending to the northward. Here we met with
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A GROUND-SWELL.
a heavy ground swell, that tossed our canoes about like rushes, and yet we were full sixty miles from the sea. I felt surprised, as the day was particularly calm; the natives were in a fearful state, attributing this common occurrence, of what was perhaps an overfall, to my obstinacy, in having disregarded the injunctions of Tamiteri.
These people who, from practice, are very expert in the management of their canoes, on the least alarm become quite helpless; it was so in this instance. I was enabled to keep those who were in my canoe from feeling dispirited, but it was otherwise with the occupants of the other canoes; a heavy swell caused them both to lurch and capsize, by which unpleasant accident all our provisions went to the bottom of the river.
The natives, who generally swim exceedingly well, soon righted their canoes, but the loss of the provisions was a serious calamity; few could feel the accident more than these people. Though the slight breeze was in our favour, the swell now rose in topping seas, and made it imperative we should land; but the banks of the river were of soft blue mud, that skirted the shore full a half mile inland, covered with mangrove-trees, and we could perceive no place in view tenable even for the weight of
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MUDDY ENCAMPMENT.
a cat. To perch on the mangroves for the night, without fire or food, was not a very inviting prospect; to remain in our canoes was to court a watery grave; however, by continually baling with our tiaru, a utensil for clearing water from canoes, we managed to advance another mile; when, through a grove of the aquatic mangroves, we espied a small spot a trifle elevated above the surrounding banks. To get to this place of safety was equally our object and difficulty; the natives, on landing, sinking in the soft mud up to their knees at each step they advanced; at last they effected to reach the mud-bank; the smallest of the canoes was brought alongside the one I occupied, into which I stepped, with the boxes containing presents, bedding, &c. Some branches of the mangroves were then placed on the bank, and the canoe propelled over them by the natives, to the bottom of the elevation, of which we took possession for the night.
The spot we occupied might have been sixteen feet square, formed of mud and branches of the young mangrove, which had originally arrested the soil from distant banks; it was surrounded at high-water, and the spring-tides covered it. At the lowest ebb, the largest canoe was despatched, to enable our divers to search
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STRAITENED QUARTERS.
for the provisions lost by the upsetting of the canoes, which had been carefully packed up in baskets, after the native method. They returned some time after, successful, all the baskets having been recovered.
A quantity of palm-branches were procured from the neighbouring bush, to make houses for the night; a large fire was also kindled, furnished by the mangrove bushes around us; and the little trypot, which had sunk when the canoes were upset, had been regained, and was put in requisition,, as the mud-bank we now occupied was too damp to admit of a native oven.
Our domicile was so small, that it was necessary to dispense with the dance, as a false step would have sunk the performer up to his chin, in the soft aquose mud that surrounded us on every side. One of our lads, named Motuihu, was an inveterate sleep-walker; him I had fastened to a stake, that partly served to support the shed my natives occupied. A distribution of tobacco put them all in good humour, and the pleasures of native song were substituted for dancing. The music of the country was produced, to while away the hours we had tediously to pass in this singular and unhealthy place. I was pleased in being able to add to their amusements, by the gift of that primitive instrument
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AMUSEMENTS OF THE GODS.
termed a jew's-harp, which was received as an inestimable gift, and essayed upon by each of the company: a recital of the day's adventures was chanted in chorus.
Several tales of the relentless Tamiteri were also related, and implicitly believed by these simple people, as credenda not to be disputed. Among other probable native facts, Tamaroa told us that his father, who was a high-priest, had been let into the confidence of the Taniwoa, who had described the Reinga, or city of the dead, to be a much pleasanter place than this sublunary world; that the spirits who were as numerous as the sand (one pu) lived very comfortable; that no fighting was allowed, but that the native chiefs could not exist, without some pleasurable excitement of the kind. To pass their time comfortably, they accordingly returned to this world at stated periods as deities; the arch-priest accounted for the failure of any of his predictions-- by the absence of the Atua from this world to the Reinga; and as these vampires are not gifted with ubiquity, it is impossible for them to listen to incantations arising from earth at such periods.
The food at the Reinga was declared to be excellent. This latter remark gave universal satisfaction. The quality, quantity, especes, &c.
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CAUSES OF ALARM.
rationed to each person in those blissful regions, were next discussed; during which, fatigued from being pent in a small canoe all day, I fell asleep.
I was suddenly awakened, about an hour after midnight, by the confusion of the party, who, I perceived by the flames from the fire, were looking at each other with speechless horror depicted on their countenances. The cause was soon explained; the two dogs, who had been comfortably nestled among the natives, had unaccountably commenced barking, which had quickly roused these watchful people, who immediately expected an attack from an enemy, which our fire on this solitary bank might have attracted. These people seldom meet each other in these untenanted places, without trembling at the encounter; yet few people are more disposed for gaiety, or sooner forget passing annoyances.
Each of the company was now attentive to the dogs, who are the native safeguards; but these somnolent animals, unaware of the confusion they had excited, composed themselves very quietly for a nap, rested their heads on their forepaws, gave a long-drawn sigh, and gradually sank in sleep. The fires were now about to be extinguished; but this I overruled,
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TRICKS OF THE ATUA.
arguing that an enemy could never be aware of our being in this place, as none of the nation ever stir out after dark, a New Zealander being fearful of his own shadow.
I again awoke before day-break, with a fit of ague, from lying in so noxious a spot. The people had sat up during the night, the barking of the dogs having effectually chased sleep from their dormitories.
We started up unrefreshed; and, by the light of our fires, placed all our materials in our canoes. A thick dark fog had enveloped us during the night. The dogs, who I expected would have fared badly, from the fears they had unwittingly imparted, were to my surprise much caressed; the cause of their barking was thrown on the Taniwoa, who it was supposed had played off some of his numerous tricks on the animals.
This conclusion was announced to me with so serious an air, that I could scarce refrain from laughter, which I avoided, being inclined rather to convince them by reasoning and reflection, than by ridicule, which could furnish no proof of the erroneous ideas they entertained.
Rangireri, or the waterfall of heaven, was the inappropriate appellation of the mud-bank on which we had encamped for the night. Previously to leaving this place, a large fire was kindled,
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MEET WITH AN EMBASSY.
as a beacon for us, which proved serviceable, while with difficulty we pursued the course of the Maungakahia river, hidden from each other by the heavy oppressive fog that arose from the marshy lands and mud-banks on either side of the river.
Several times we got foul of the banks, and it was not until the sun had risen high in the heavens, that the nebulous vapour had partially cleared away, which discovered to us that the flax plant was as prolific on these banks as we had hitherto seen on the Kaihu.
We passed several patches of splendid forest, whose lofty trees grew within a very few feet of the river's brink.
On turning a bend in this serpentine river, we suddenly came up with two large canoes; in one of them sat a venerable decrepit chief, full dressed, and decorated in the native fashion; his hair was tied up in a bunch behind, and ornamented with the O feathers. The tattooing on his face was scarce discernible, from the quantity of kokowai with which he was bedaubed; it had also been made use of to sprinkle his garments; a tiki of green talc hung suspended from his neck, and a large waka kai, or ear ornament, cut from the downy part of the breast of the gannet, floated in the wind. I judged this ancient noble to have passed his eightieth year, yet he had the
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SACRED EMBASSY.
strength to steer the canoe he sat in, which was a very large tewai of the red pine; he was assisted in paddling by two young lads, who were his grandchildren, and five old ladies, who, I was informed, were the only surviving wives of the venerable polygamist. The ladies were bedaubed, cap-a-pie, with a mixture of kokowai and shark's oil; and the strong nature of the latter was such that I was sensibly relieved by being paddled to windward.
The second canoe contained males only, of all ages, and by the particular attention paid to their dress, I was convinced they were all chiefs; their hair had been neatly collected, and tied in a bunch at the top of the head, decorated with the feathers of the uia nui bird. Their ears were garnished with handsome dried skins of the Piwakawaka bird, or the tooth of the sand shark, pending from the lobe. Three of the chiefs stood up erect in the canoe, brandishing a hani spear, or the tomahawk. Kokowai and shark's oil had been lavishly bestowed on all the party: their dresses consisted of the kaitaka and karowai, made of the silky flax, and covered with dog-skin mats, or neris' made of rushes, as protection against rain.
On perceiving our three small canoes, they immediately flew to arms, but were agreeably
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CEREMONIOUS FEARS.
surprised to see a European among their own friends. There was much greeting on both sides. We learnt that the large canoe was tapued, and all that was in it, consisting of some old muskets, several paddles, garments of all kinds, and a large fishing net, somewhat the worse for wear. Among others of these sacred trifles, was a fern-pounder and a stone, together with several old sticks that had formed part of a shed belonging to a deceased chief, and which were also tapued. These several things, including a large canoe, were to be deposited in a Wai tapu, some short distance inland at Kaihu, as offertories that would prove grateful to the manes of the departed warrior, whose bones were to be exhumated.
This ceremony was called a Haihunga. I offered some presents to these people, but they were rejected, as all these sanctimonious folks were strictly tapued; they doubted not, if any of them touched food, or any thing else, while under the interdiction, the Atua would destroy them.
1 was nevertheless informed, it would be lawful to place a little tobacco in the canoe that was untapued; and I did so accordingly, with care, lest I should put the grateful narcotic in the wrong place. We then saluted
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ARRIVE AT THE SETTLEMENT.
each other, took to our paddles, and a sudden bend in the river soon hid us from view.
Our party struck out with their paddles manfully, and the canoes flew through the water in quick style. We passed several raouis, painted red, which had a pretty effect amid the green bushes. One district we passed was highly tapued, from the cause of an accident that befel a chief, in the act of giving help to some of his people, while dragging out of the bush a log which was to be hollowed to form a canoe. A branch of some tree that had been previously severed, fell, and struck him with much force on the shoulders; he was not long in recovering: but the forest was tapued, and it had remained so some years previously to our arrival. Had the country possessed its proportion of inhabitants, a tapu of this kind could not have existed. We soon arrived at Maungakahia valley.
A number of canoes, handsomely painted and decorated with feathers at the stem and stern, pendant in garlands, were lying off the settlement. We approached unobserved; but no sooner had my escort discharged their muskets, than hundreds ran clown to the beach in a turbulent manner to know the cause. As soon as friends were espied, with a European among them, mats were waved, the "airemai," or wel-
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MODE OF WELCOME.
come, was shouted and screamed from all quarters by the inhabitants of this primitive capital, the dogs adding their yells to the clamorous din. Numbers swam off to us, to haul the canoes on shore; others threw small stones and sticks at us, which is accounted another method of welcome. Our canoes had scarcely got to the shore, when the men jumped into the water and rushed to the beach, pursuing the natives of the village, who amounted to about three hundred and fifty persons; both parties of the men were quite naked, purposely. My people were then pursued in turn by the opposite friends; who, after some mock fighting, rushed after each other into the water, splashing each other, and interchanging a few hearty duckings. After this had continued some time, all rushed like madmen to the upper part of the beach, and hastily formed themselves into two separate bodies, taking opposite places. As early as they had arranged themselves in ranks, they wildly rushed each party against the other, passing with great force. During this melee they flourished their paddles and hanis, some making use of taiapa, or rail-fence, in lieu of spears: they each returned to their places. The haka was then commenced, accompanied with the usual yells in chorus, keeping time with their volitary movements. Their bodies were
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OUR RECEPTION
thrown into attitudes that defied the tortuous powers of a European posture-master to imitate. They almost rolled their eyes out of their sockets, distending their mouths, like hammer-headed sharks, from ear to ear; their tongues rivalled the chameleon, who can conveniently turn it to the back of his head.
Jumping in unison from the ground, each tried to out-Herod his neighbour; this was continued until nature could no further go, when down they sat to make room for my followers, who acquitted themselves admirably. As they sported seven muskets among them, they were made use of in the dance, each contriving to shew the brass on the stock, which is kept bright for such gala days as the present proved to be.
After the haka was finished, all the natives arranged their dresses. The chiefs were distinguished from the common class by their dogskin dresses; the inferior portion of the aristocracy were dressed in handsome mats of silken white, or glossy jet, dyed by an infusion of the bark of the henou-tree. Some of these large mats were tied across the breast with strings, and, descending to the feet, gave a lively idea of the majesty imparted to the wearer of the ancient toga. The effect produced by the many various
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AT A NATIVE VILLAGE.
dresses and ornaments, which were very becoming, was extremely pleasing.
Each person wore a belt of leather, or matted flax, from which was appended the stone meri, or more modern tomahawk. Most of these people had contrived to give themselves a daub of kokowai rouge, which, together with the feathers on their heads, and newest garments, were brought from the houses by their numerous wives in waiting, who arranged the outward appearance of their husbands with seeming pride and pleasure.
Terarau, the chief of the district, was absent some short distance; but a messenger was sent to inform him of the arrival of a European within his fortifications, the first who had ever visited his village.
I was received by his relative Matte, who dispensed the honours of the place during the absence of his superior lord. The abomination of the tangi commenced, in which the early sobs rose to shrieks and outcries that were truly dismal to hear--it reminded me of those unhappy people whose prostrated imagination conceives no hope. This howling lasted an hour; and as we had passed through many adventures (in the ideas of a native), it took some time to chant over. The women, as usual, were most out-
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BEAUTIES OF THE METROPOLIS.
rageous in the lament, and cut gashes in their flesh with such ferocity, that I was fain glad to quit their vicinity, and visit the "lions" of this primitive metropolis with the complaisant Matte, who politely proffered himself as cicerone.
The children, with accustomed curiosity, followed me, feeling my legs and pockets at every turn. The females exhibited the usual mixture of bashfulness and curiosity of the dear sex, screening their faces with extended hands, and peering between their fingers. The modesty and reserve of the young females of the country, in parts uncontaminated by obscene Europeans, induce them to retire from the glances of the stranger. It was so in this instance; but curiosity soon made them return.
I was introduced to one of the chiefs who had not joined in the haka. He was lying in a recumbent posture within a shed, undergoing the painful process of tattooing, which pride made him bear with much firmness.
His face was besmeared with blood, that had partly dried on the skin; and also streamed from the punctures then making. The practitioner of the art was a native of Wakatiwai, on the banks of the Thames, and was accounted an adept in this really difficult branch of the native arts. I could scarce refrain from smiling at this
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NATIVE FASHIONABLES.
tyro. In giving any interesting touch to the agonised impatient under his hands, he would incline his head on either side, with the self-satisfied air of an academician when giving a touch that "tells," according to the technical term of connoisseurs. At every stroke given by the operator, the victim to fashion winced and writhed; which will not excite surprise, as each cut jagged into the flesh with the acuteness of a sharp knife, blood flowing profusely at every incision; this was wiped away with a piece of soft flax, that an extra tap might be given if the flesh was not already cut deep enough.
We passed on from this prostrate chief, who summoned all his fortitude to appear calm before us, though the quivering of his whole body evinced the tormenting pain he was suffering. I next espied some male exquisites in a small shed, decorating each other for the occasion. One was stooping down, having his hair combed, feathered, and painted; while, in turn, he was giving a touch of red ochre and shark's oil to the legs of his coiffeur.
I was next introduced to the chief lady of the absent Terarau, who sat on a dais, or raised platform, apparently without animation. I made up to her, with the intention of giving the ongi; but an instantaneous "Kaore," or, "you must
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ORNAMENTAL EFFIGIES
not do it," burst from the lips of the bystanders. The lady was tapued, on account of the absence of her liege lord. There was nothing remarkable in the countenance of this chieftess to cause any superabundant fears in the breast of the absent husband. In addition to a countenance of a most unpleasant expression, she had added the repulsive rancid shark-oil in such profusion, as made her presence unbearable. I felt gratitude to the priest for tapuing the dame; and, unwilling to break the prohibition, I hastily quitted her presence.
I was introduced to that part of the enclosure, where the heads of the enemy that had been captured during the week were placed on poles, in front of the house of the chief. I counted nine: there were three more placed on poles in front of the entrance-gate to this part of the village, behind which was the cemetery. The latter had been in that situation for a month previous. They brought to recollection the refined taste that prompted a more civilised people to decorate the gates of their metropolis, the emporium of the fine arts, with ornaments of a similar nature, some "sixty years since;" the discontinuance of which has been destructive to an itinerant profession; for we are told by Walpole, in his "Private Correspondence," that
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FORMERLY IN LONDON.
at a certain date he went to the Tower of London, and passed under the new heads at Temple Bar, where he saw people making a trade by letting spy-glasses at a "halfpenny a look."
These heads had chanted the war-song but four days previously; the bodies which had appertained to them danced the wild haka, and had since been consigned to the oven, and nearly wholly devoured by the natives. Curious to see this abhorrent food, after it had undergone a culinary process, I requested a minor chief to shew me some; he accordingly mounted a wata, where the provisions are always kept, and brought down a small flax basket, containing the human viand. At first view I should have taken it for fresh pork in a boiled state, having the same pale, cadaverous colour. My informant stated, it was a piece of the lower part of the thigh, grasping with his hand that part of my body, illustrative of what he advanced. It appeared very much shrunk; and on my observing it must have appertained to a boy, the head of its possessor, when alive, was pointed out to me, apparently a man of forty-five years of age.
The sight of this piece of mortality afforded the chief some pleasure, for he stretched out his tongue, pretending to lick the food, and gave
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NATIVE GASCONADE.
other significant signs, indicative of the excessive delight he felt in partaking of human flesh.
The man ascended the notched pole of the wata, and replaced the basket carefully. On descending, and rejoining me, he entered largely on the subject, pointing to many parts of my body, such as the palm of my hand, shoulders, and lower extremities,, as being particularly delicate, even to the most fastidious. In conclusion, he suddenly gave a theatrical start, distorted his countenance into the most revolting gesticulations, darted forth his tongue, and rolled his eyeballs until the whites only were visible. He next writhed his body into the most tortuous form that was possible for nature to admit of, throwing forward his arm, as if in the act to grasp me: but I had seen too many of such freaks from his countrymen, during the period I had sojourned among them, to feel any symptoms of alarm. I only laughed at him in reply; on which, perceiving the little effect his abilities had produced, he resumed his usual manner, and laughed also.
The preserved heads on the poles resembled many natives I had seen; a satanic grin appeared in the countenance of each. I was particularly struck with the small size of these
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SURPRISE OF THE VILLAGERS.
heads, which appeared no larger than those of little boys; the ages differed, the senior looked fifty, the youngest seventeen years.
Puhi joined me, to say that provisions were about to be served up. I requested a shed of Matte, to be tapued for me, which he instantly granted; on which my trusty steward arranged the place with palm-leaves into something like decency, while every movement of both master and man were watched by the surrounding natives with surprise and amusement.
Nothing escaped their remarks. The iron pot was now introduced, in which Puhi, who piqued himself as a cuisinier, had stewed a fine pigeon with vegetables; a tree-stump answered well the purpose of a chair, and one of the boxes served for a table. The tin dishes were next produced, which elicited unlimited praise for their brightness.
Puhi, in answer to an inquiry of Matte, as to the substance they were formed of, replied they were formed of moni kora, or gold money. Many of the chiefs who had heard of the value attached to money by Europeans, now stared with still greater avidity at the supposed riches displayed. Many were the questions put to Puhi, but he was too self-satisfied with his own importance, to return an answer to any one less
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SIMPLICITY OF THE VILLAGERS.
than a principal chief; and even to such, his remarks were as brief and mysterious as he could well form them.
A large circle of natives had flocked round, composed of both sexes, all ages, and the different grades of native society, who always socially mix together, anxious to see a white man eat. My knife and fork, which my steward brandished with solemn dignity before the eager eyes of these primitive people, was next produced. The pepper and salt were past comprehension; each of these articles in turn caused the utmost surprise. They begged each other to notice how I made use of the knife and fork. A shout of merriment followed the necessary occasion that constrained me to apply my pocket-handkerchief to my nose. I have alluded to the less pleasing substitute for this useful appendage among this unsophisticated people. As every action I made use of was faithfully copied by most of my audience, I need scarce add, their gross manners, in attempting to give effect to my last action, was such as to spoil all further appetite; I therefore left the utensils in charge of Puhi, to pack away at his leisure.
