1867 - von Hochstetter, Ferdinand. New Zealand - Chapter I. Nine Months in New Zealand

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CHAPTER I.

Nine Months in New Zealand.

THE ARRIVAL. On the 7th of December 1858, after a stay of four weeks on the coast of Australia, the Novara set sail from Port Jackson, the harbour of Sydney. The frigate, which on the long voyage from China to Australia had suffered great damage from a hurricane in the Chinese sea, and subsequently from stormy weather in the neighbourhood of New Caledonia, had undergone a thorough repair in the famous docks of Sydney, and was from masthead to keel as good as new; and the wind and waves, as though they had conspired to test at once the workmanship of carpenters, caulkers, and sail-makers, began to use us very roughly as soon as we had passed the "Sydney-Heads" at 9 o'clock a.m., and were steering our course towards New Zealand.

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On the 20th December we stood in front of the entrance to the Hauraki Gulf, the South-West bay of which forms the harbour of Auckland. Great and Little Barrier Island, or Otea and Houtouru, as the natives call them, with their peaks about 2000 feet high, lay before us. In these parts certainly but very few vessels had occasion to complain of too fair weather and perfect calm; yet, here again we made an exception to the general rule. It was a beautiful day; but not a breath of air was stirring to waft us towards our destination. The weather was much the same on the 21th December; currents and slightly adverse winds had driven us out of the common route into the Hauraki Gulf past the "Hen and Chickens," thence between Little Barrier Island and Rodney Point, as far as the East-coast of Great Barrier Island. Hence Commodore v. Wullerstorf decided on entering by the Southern Channel between Cape Barrier and Cape Colville, a navigable passage ten miles wide, and we sailed slowly along the East-coast of Great Barrier Island.

This island, about 25 miles long, consists of a chain of steep-rising, serrated rocky mountains with many summits and sharp peaks. The highest point, in the middle of the island, named Mount Hobson after the first Governor of New Zealand, is indicated on the maps as 2330 feet above the level of the sea. Its Northern extremities are very remarkably indented rocks, called the "Needles," and the South angle is formed by the round summit of the rocky Cape Barrier. While the West-side of the island has a great many deeply excavated bays affording excellent moorings, on the shores of which both natives and Europeans have settled, the East-coast appears as a naked, uninhabited rooky shore with but one bay of any size, which is partially screened by "Aride Island," a lone, barren, and utterly inaccessible rook, so named by Cook. On the Northwest-side of Great Barrier there are some rich copper-mines; and in the woods of the island herds of wild horned cattle are said to roam. 1

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During the night we passed the straits between Cape Barrier and Cape Colville, and in the morning of the 22d, favoured by a North-Eastern breeze, we sailed down the spacious Hauraki Gulf. The weather had entirely changed by this time. The mountains were shrouded in fogs, and the horizon was so misty and murky, that we could hardly see the little islands surrounding us, or the land we were making for. Suddenly, however, the wind veered round to the opposite direction, the haze cleared away, and we now saw before us the entrance to the Waitemata Bay; -- we had arrived in front of Auckland Harbour. The South-West wind had so suddenly withdrawn the veil of mist and clouds, in which we had hitherto been wrapped, that we were perfectly amazed at the first sight presented to us.

We were surrounded on all sides by islands, peninsulas and main-land, Tiritirimatangi, Wangaparoa, and the outlines of the North-shore; a low, undulating country destitute of woods, with steep shores, exhibiting regular layers of sandstone and shale, with small, sandy bays, the beach of which was dotted with small, isolated wood-huts. -- Before us, in the direction of the sporadic groups of houses composing Auckland City, there lay numerous small truncated cones of hills, the form of which at the very first glance betrayed their volcanic nature. Pre-eminent among all the rest, as it were the leader of the whole host, who alone had ventured out into the sea, and here proudly reared his lofty head, arose the Rangitoto, an island mountain, 900 feet high, -- the true prognostic of Auckland.

Attractive as the view of this volcanic island was to me, with

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its black streams of lava, with its strangely formed summit, where one small cone seemed to be set in the crater of another larger one: the first view of Auckland, I must confess, equalled by no means my brilliant anticipations of New Zealand.

Entrance to Auckland Harbour

Is that Auckland? -- I said to myself, the farfamed capital of the "Great Britain of the South sea?" Where is the New Zealand Thames? Where the steaming, seething geysers and boiling springs? Where are all the volcanic cones of which I had read, the ever-steaming Tongariro; the Ruapahu covered with perpetual snow and ice; the Taranaki rearing its lofty head to the very clouds; where the New Zealand Alps? The picture my imagination had created of New Zealand was quite different to that now presented to my view. The stupendous conical mountains in reality seemed to me shrunk up into little insignificant conical eruptions from 500 to 600 feet high. Although I knew full well, that those gigantic volcanoes, and the snow-clad mountains of the South-Island were no

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fables, but that they lay at such a distance from this coast as to render them invisible; yet my eye searched inquiringly after them, and I felt quite disappointed that not even the last trace of them was to be descried.

However, I always felt so, whenever I first set foot on a land, about which I had read a great deal; and every traveller, I think, will experience the same. The reality of the spot which he first steps upon in a new country, never corresponds with the picture created by the imagination. After a long voyage he approaches the new coast with a feeling of impatience and utmost curiosity in the full belief of finding all that is attractive and remarkable collected on the very spot he happens first to set foot on, ready and waiting for him, who has come so far over the waters to see, with his own eyes, all he had read and heard of. But as it is with the traveller, who would like to see and experience at once all on one and the same spot, so it is, on the other hand, with others in regard to the traveller. He, in his turn, is expected to have seen all and every thing, to have experienced and passed through every thing, especially if he happens to be a so-called "circumnavigator." And if he moreover should happen to have just visited the gold-fields of Australia, -- why, nothing seems more natural than that he should have brought home with him all his pockets and coffers stuffed with gold dust. It is the imagination which ever speculates, brings the most distant objects near, and would fain comprise all in one grasp.

Should my friends in Auckland require any further apology after this my candid avowal, that the impression made on me on the 22d of December 1858, on my first viewing the scenery of that country, did not realise the grand picture my imagination had drawn of New Zealand, I can only assure them, that as Auckland and New Zealand live in my memory at present, all my former expectations and anticipations have been surpassed by far, and should I live to be permitted a second view of that panorama, and to greet once more the Rangitoto, my heart would leap for joy.

On a nearer approach we could perceive, that the signal had

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already been hoisted on the flagstaff upon Mount Victoria, announcing to the inhabitants the arrival of an Austrian man-of-war, and at 2 o'clock p.m. Captain Burgess came on board as pilot. I had no idea at that time, that I should make many a trip yet on those waters in the Captain's neat, fast-sailing cutter, and that to this same Captain Burgess, who tendered us so hearty a welcome, saying that we had long since been announced and expected in Auckland, -- I should be indebted afterwards for many a kind favour received at his hands.

Although but a few miles distant from the harbour, the vessel laboured long and hard against the contrary wind to pass up the narrow channel between the Rangitoto and the Northshore into the Waitemata. The nearer we approached, the more enlivening was the scenery. Boats came rowing up to us; natives paddled along in their canoes, and from the deck of a ship just leaving the harbor we were hailed with loud shouts of welcome, as she passed close by us; but it was not until 6 o'clock p.m. that we arrived at the anchoring place in front of the city.

We met five other ships in the harbour; alongside of them now lay the Novara, the largest man-of-war that had ever anchored here. The whole population of Auckland appeared to have gathered together on the shore, when our frigate cast anchor, firing twenty one salutes in honour of the British flag upon New Zealand. The salutes were responded to from the fort. The Governor bade the expedition through his secretary and adjutant a most hearty welcome; messengers arrived to hail our coming also in the name of the colonists and inhabitants of Auckland; and the very first reception betokened that genuine cordiality, that amiability and complaisance shown to the expedition in so eminent a degree by the generous inhabitants of Auckland, and which I met with every where among the colonists with whom I chanced to become acquainted on my subsequent wanderings.

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NEGOTIATIONS AND RESOLUTION. I little thought, on my first arrival in Auckland, that after a fortnight's stay the Novara would weigh anchor, and that I should wave from the shore a last farewell to my companions, and henceforth continue my travels alone. First of all, the duty seems to devolve upon me to relate, how unexpectedly this came to pass.

My first plans and hopes of being able to travel through the interior of the North Island of New Zealand, so remarkable on account of its volcanic features, date from the stay of the Novara Expedition at the Cape of Good Hope, in November 1857. Sir George Grey, then Governor of the Cape Colony, -- formerly, in the commencement of his brilliant career, from 1847 to 1853, Governor of New Zealand, and 1861 recalled to it -- gave the first encouragement. He pictured to the commander of the expedition, Commodore von Wullerstorf-Urbair, the grand natural curiosities of that unexplored country, its volcanoes and boiling springs, which he himself had seen on various journeys through the interior, in such lively colours, pointing at the same time to the great advantages, that must necessarily result from exploring the interior of the North Island, especially to geology and geography: -- that the Commodore, who never for a moment lost sight of the scientific task of the expedition, resolved on remaining, if possible, longer in New Zealand, than had been laid down in the original plan of travel. Therefore it was at that time already, that I consulted Sir George Grey on the expediency of my undertaking an overland journey from Auckland to Wellington during the stay of the Novara in those two ports which she was to visit. Sir George Grey also very kindly placed his very select library at my disposal for my further guidance, and furnished the naturalists of the Novara with the kindest letters of recommendation to influential men of that country. It is with a sense of heartfelt gratitude I remember the cordiality and the friendly encouragements of that noble-minded man, who, wherever he was, in Australia, New Zealand or the Cape of Good Hope, invariably made use of his influential position to the furtherance of science.

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However, the fine plans we had made at the Cape of Good Hope, at the very commencement of our travels round the world, would hardly have been put into execution, had not the question concerning the exploration of New Zealand, by a singular concurrence of circumstances, been solved for me otherwise than it had been originally proposed. In November 1858, about the time of the stay of our frigate in the harbour of Sydney, Sir William Denison, Governor-General of Australia, to whom the Novara Expedition is greatly indebted for a vigorous furtherance of its purpose, and for liberal contributions to its collections, had, shortly before our arrival on the coast of Australia, received a document from the New Zealand Government, requesting the services of a geologist to examine a newly discovered coal-field near Auckland. Sir William Denison, on becoming acquainted with Commodore Wullerstorf's intention to visit the harbour of Auckland, requested him, that he would permit the geologist on board the Novara to examine those coal-fields more closely during the stay of the vessel in the harbour of Auckland, and to deliver reports thereon to the Governor of New Zealand. Commodore Wullerstorf gladly embraced this opportunity, of rendering the Government of an English colony at least some service, however slight, in order to prove by it our unfeigned gratitude for the cordial welcome and the vigorous assistance we had received everywhere on English ground.

Consequently, on my arrival in Auckland, I was commissioned by the commander of the expedition to undertake a close examination of the coal-field. in question, to give my opinion as to the quality of the coal and extent of the coal-fields, and also to point out the place best suited for working a mine.

With pleasure I accepted this commission, and owing to the various excellent preparations, which the Government at Auckland had made for this purpose previous to our arrival, I was enabled within the short space of time from December 24th to January 2d, to carry my researches so far as to arrive at definite results, which I presented in a special report "On the coal-field in the Drury and Hunua Districts in the province of

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Auckland." 2 This report, urging most emphatically the establishing of mines, was delivered by Commodore Wullerstorf to His Excellency, the Governor of New Zealand, Colonel Th. Gore Brown, while our frigate was yet at anchor in the harbour of Auckland; -- it called forth further proceedings and negotiations.

In a country, as yet perfectly unknown in a geological point of view, in the various parts of which various mineral treasures, such as gold, copper, iron, coal, promised most essentially to raise the natural resources of the young and fast-rising colony, the necessity of a more extensive geological exploration seemed so pressing; it appeared to be so much the universal wish of the colonists, that the opportunity for carrying such an exploration into effect, now offered by the presence of a geologist, should be eagerly embraced: -- that the Government of New Zealand applied to the Commodore with the request, that he would consent to a longer stay in New Zealand of the geologist of the expedition, for the purpose of making geological surveys in that country, but especially in the province of Auckland.

Commodore von Wullerstorf, on reflecting that during the rest of the voyage no more such unexplored countries would be touched, was quite inclined to comply with the request, provided I could make up my mind to remain behind alone. Indeed, he was the more willing from the conviction, that the geological exploration of a country so little known as New Zealand, would lead to results, which through all generations to come would secure, even at the Antipodes, a lasting memento to the Novara Expedition, which had first been projected by His Imperial Highness, the Archduke Ferdinand Max, and which, in consequence of being sanctioned by His Majesty, the Emperor, has proved so important to Austria.

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I must confess, it was no easy matter for me to make up my mind. It had, indeed, never been my intention to put, while separated from the expedition and from my fellow-travellers, those plans into execution, which had engaged my thoughts ever since our stay at the Cape of Good Hope, and but too well do I remember the pain the decision cost me. It was on the 5th of January. Accompanied by my friend, the Rev. Mr. A. 0. Purchas, with whom I afterwards became so intimate, I entered the Council-Chamber of the Colonial Government-Office, resolved to state to the assembled ministry my special reasons for declining the honourable proposition made me by the Kew Zealand Government, and preferring to continue my travels on board the Novara. My ignorance of the language of the natives, the extraordinary territorial difficulties which the country, at no great distance from the capital, with its gloomy, pathless forests seemed to present, the want of any sort of topographical map of the interior, without which I deemed a geological exploration useless if not impracticable -- these and various other circumstances made me doubt a successful solution of the grand problem before me.

However, the eloquence and amiability of my friends, the Rev. Mr. Purchas and Dr. C. Fischer, as well as the obliging disposition of the ministers present overcame my scruples, and in cheerful anticipation of an interesting, time of travel, and of happy results, I finally assented. The ministry, consisting of Attorney-General F. Whitacker, Colonial-Treasurer C. W. Richmond, and Postmaster-General H. T. Tancred, as also Superintendent John Williamson, the head of the Provincial-Government, promised me the most vigorous assistance and the supply of every means within their power.

Consequently, in an agreement between the Commander of the Novara Expedition, B. von Wullerstorf-Urbair and His Excellency, the Governor of New Zealand, Colonel Gore Brown, the conditions were laid down under which I was to perform my new and honourable task. 3

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On the 7th of January, during very stormy weather, I disembarked. I had all my things brought ashore, including the instruments and the apparatus necessary for my future operations. I had to leave my cabin, which had so long been my shelter, and to which I had become so much attached; and one of my colleagues occupied it after me.

The departure of the Novara for Tahiti was fixed for the 8th of January. At break of day I was on board. After the several stormy days, which had delayed her departure, this was the first calm, bright morning. The frigate was ready to set sail, and was only waiting for a breeze to spring up, and for a change of the current at the time of low-water. About 8 a.m. the command was given to weigh anchor, and for me the sad moment of parting had arrived. To separate myself suddenly and for good from a ship, that had been my home for nearly two years, and the fate of which had been so closely linked to mine, cost me many a bitter pang. I tried to return thanks to the noble Commodore, and the gallant Commandant, but my voice failed me; I pressed the hands of my late fellow-travellers, my companions in joy and sorrow, who I saw were as sad at heart as myself. However, the band commenced playing; up went the anchor, the sails were unfurled, I hastened down the rope-ladder into my boat, -- and made for the shore. Before I had reached the land, the Novara with studding sails was gliding along the placid, watery mirror, buoyed up by a gentle breeze. I stood gazing after her for a long long while, wishing her a safe voyage and a happy return to my native home. After the body of the vessel had disappeared behind the Northshore, I still saw her mast-heads; for a moment the whole ship was once more visible above the low country; many a last farewell was waved to her by her friends on land, unobserved, however, by those on board; the breeze grew fresher, and the Novara had vanished from the horizon.

It was not till then, that I awoke to a full sense of the novelty and change of my situation. The Novara was a piece of my native home; on her I had felt at home even while abroad in far distant countries. In my previous travels I had been among friends

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and acquaintances, and lived after the good old home-fashion; the language we spoke was our mother-tongue; -- only the scenery changed during our travels; and even among people of different complexion, and on the most distant shores did I feel at home as long as the Novara lay in the harbour. Hence my travels in foreign countries, and among strange people might truly be said to date from now. I was alone and left to shift for myself.

Such were my thoughts, when I wrote in my diary:
"Alone among the Antipodes!"

SOJOURN. Now, after having returned to my native hemisphere, when I recall the pleasant times spent in the Antipodes, I may well say, that I had every reason to be satisfied with my fate. New Zealand was altogether an extremely remunerative field of exploration for me. In a geological point of view, every step was attended with new results, which, whether in accordance with or adverse to the sanguine expectations of the colonists, were generally connected with questions of material and practical value for the young colony. I had thus the satisfaction of finding the whole population taking a lively interest in my labours. This cheering and truly honouring sympathy was to me the most welcome reward for the many privations and hardships, which had to be necessarily incurred. The kind and valuable services rendered me by word and deed, wherever my scientific peregrinations led me; the numerous and attentive audience in Auckland and Nelson at my evening lectures on the geology of New Zealand; the honours and distinctions, with which I was overwhelmed at my departure, -- all this imparted to me the soothing consciousness and the cheering certainty, that I had not laboured only for myself or for a few initiated in the science, but happily for a whole nation, who with their lively interest and national energy participated in the results of geological and geographical researches, and most vigorously endeavoured to turn them to account. Perhaps I have also aroused a dormant taste for natural sciences in many a distant friend, and

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may therefore rejoice in new explorations and enterprises, the interesting results of which my friends communicate to me by letter; thus maintaining a connection between myself and a country, the grand nature and the amiable inhabitants of which I shall always recall to my memory with feelings of warmest interest.

The consequence of these happy and pleasant relations was, that instead of remaining in New Zealand only four or five months, as was my original intention, I remained nine, and only decided on returning to my native country on receiving tidings of the safe arrival home of the Novara.

After the departure of the Novara I had taken up spacious and comfortable quarters in the so-called Clermont-House, Princes-Street, with Mr. Winchy, an ever obliging and complaisant host. A large, saloon-like apartment with a commanding view over a large portion of the lower town with the harbour as far as the wood-clad Titirangi-Range extending along the West-coast, served me both for a study, and for a cabinet for my collections. Zoology and botany having been the special fields assigned to my colleagues of the Novara Expedition, I thought it my duty now -- left behind as I was, all by myself, -- to avail myself of every opportunity on my travels, of making at the same time also zoological and botanical collections, and I arranged at once everything necessary for this purpose. At the same time I put advertisements in the papers requesting the public to forward to me all objects in any way pertaining to natural history. In doing this I had a double object in view; first, the chance of one day receiving with the objects forwarded also information concerning the nature of districts which in consequence of my very limited time I should not be able to explore myself; and secondly to be enabled to contribute to a museum of natural history in the town of Auckland. I, therefore, requested the forwarding of duplicates of the same objects; and collected also myself multiplied specimens of every object of interest, in order to leave a portion of my collections behind for the Auckland Museum. The colonists manifesting a lively sympathy for all my undertakings, my summons was crowned with success, and

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together with my own contributions, the collections gradually grew so numerous, that at last I was scarcely able to find room for them in my lodgings. Most readily, therefore, the Government fitted up a neat little house close by for my museum. It was open to the public at all times on my return from excursions, and I was always favoured there with numerous kind visitors, who were desirous of seeing what there was new and remarkable in New Zealand.

It is with the deepest sense of gratitude that I state, that both the Colonial, and the Provincial Governments of Auckland did all in their power to further my plans. Numerous friends, amongst them the most influential and experienced men of the colony -- men, whose names I shall have frequent occasions to refer to -- were ever ready to aid me by word and deed. Their kind recommendations accompanying me on my various excursions, were always certain to procure me the most hospitable reception wherever I went. But I was particularly fortunate here in meeting with a true and trusty German, who became henceforth my inseparable travelling companion, the faithful participant of all the toil and troubles as well as my pleasures during my peregrinations through New Zealand; I am speaking of my friend, Julius Haast. A singular chance had brought him in an emigrant-ship to the coast of New Zealand the very day before the arrival of the Novara. He had come for the special purpose of becoming acquainted with the country and its inhabitants, and sounding to what extent New Zealand was adapted to German immigration. With youthful enthusiasm he entered at once into all my plans, duly appreciating the importance of the task before me; with unfeigned friendly devotion and an unwavering cheerfulness of mind he stood ever at my side, aiding and furthering my projects and labours until we separated on my departure from Nelson. He remained behind, and has since acquired a well-earned fame and distinction by his bold and persevering explorations of the wild, mountainous districts of the South Island. 4

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My first field of action was the Province of Auckland. By the ample means with which the most worthy Superintendent of the Province, the Hon. J. Williamson, furnished me, I was enabled in the short space of five months, to traverse the greater portion of this province, comprising almost the whole Northern half of the North Island, and to accomplish my object on a larger scale according to a fixed plan.

For the first two months, January and February, the town of Auckland itself continued to be the centre of my excursions, the season not yet appearing favorable for longer journeys on foot into the interior of the country. First of all, therefore, I purposed to finish the researches on the brown coal in the vicinity of the capital, and on the remarkable Auckland-volcanoes, which I had begun during the stay of the Novara: which object I accomplished by making a detailed geological survey of the district of Auckland. Indeed, the nearest environs of the capital even, despite a few preparatory sketches of Mr. C. Heaphy, were in a geological respect almost as unexplored as the remote interior of the country. Sketches and outlines of a topographical map on a large scale (1 inch = 1 sea-mile) furnished me by the Provincial surveyor's office, served as a basis for a geological map of the Auckland District.

On a closer examination the country presented a far greater variety of geological formations than I had anticipated. The remarkable, extinct volcanoes on the Isthmus of Auckland engaged my attention the most, unique as they are in their kind both with respect to their number on so small a space, and the peculiar shape of their cones and craters and their streams of lava. In a circumference of only 10 miles from Auckland I had to note down no less than 61 extinct points of eruption. An excursion southward to the Manukau Harbour and the mouth of the Waikato River led to the discovery of very interesting fossils on the Southside of the mouth of the Waikato and along the West-coast, to the discovery of belemnites and beautifully preserved fossil ferns. By this circumstance the existence of secondary strata upon New Zealand was for

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the first time proved beyond a doubt. Subsequent excursions towards the Drury and Papakura Districts, as also to the Wairoa-River had for their aim the establishing of the extent of the brown coal-formation, and in a northern direction I advanced as far as the Waitakeri River and the peninsula Wangaparoa.

The geological map, as far as I had finished it by the end of February, comprised the whole environs of Auckland in a circuit of about 20 miles. My collections, on the other hand, contained quite a number of new fossils, and interesting specimens of rock; my cabinet of botanical and zoological curiosities had also greatly accumulated through liberal contributions from all quarters.

The question now arose, whether I should choose the North or the South of the province as the object of my further explorations, as my limited stay would not admit of my exploring both. I did not hesitate to decide in favour of the South from various reasons. The southern portions of the Auckland Province were almost exclusively inhabited by natives. None but missionaries, a few government-officers and tourists had traversed those remarkable, and as yet but little known regions; whereas the North of the island was far better known. Numerous European settlers inhabit the coasts of the bays of the northern peninsula. From verbal and written reports of the colonists I gathered much valuable information concerning the nature of that country. Dieffenbach 5 had visited all the important parts in the North, and published detailed accounts of them, which are very creditable to the writer. The celebrated American geologist Dana, in the grand expedition sent by the United States to the South Sea, had touched the Bay of Islands, the most important harbour of the North, and made a geological exploration of its environs. 6 Moreover, my friend the Rev. Mr. A.Q. Purchas and Mr. Ch. Heaphy had during my stay at Auckland, visited the districts of the North, and brought me all sorts of collections and drawings, so that I was by no means a stranger to that part. On the other hand, the

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remote interior of the southern portion of the Province, was, as yet almost unexplored. Since Dieffenbach's memorable travels in the year 1840, no naturalist had beheld the high volcanic cones in the interior of the island, or the beautiful inland-lakes, the boiling springs, the steaming solfataras and fumaroles of that country. Rumours about the existence of extensive coalfields, of lead, and copper ore were afloat. The geological information gleaned from Dieffenbach's account of that country, could not suffice, nor was the topography of the interior known to any extent. Hence a journey in that direction promised the most remunerative results; and towards the end of February I made the necessary preparations for it.

Captain (now Major) Drummond Hay, a gentleman thoroughly versed in the Maori language, was appointed by the Governor as my travelling-marshal and interpreter. The Provincial Government, on the other hand, was so kind as to invite my friend Dr. Haast to join our party; it moreover most readily complied with my request to furnish me a photographer, and also an assistant to make metereological observations and to aid me in my collections and drawings. In the latter capacity I engaged a willing and very useful young German, Mr. Koch; in the former the artist, Mr. Bruno Hamel. Besides these, two male attendants, a cook and fifteen natives to carry our luggage were hired.

Thus provided with letters of recommendation from the Governor to the most influential chiefs, and supplied with every article necessary for a long journey on foot through thinly populated countries, and for nightly bivouacs in the open air, I left Auckland on the 6th of March for Mangatawhiri on the Waikato. In the canoes of the natives I proceeded up Waikato, on the banks of which, near Kupakupa below Taupiri, extensive brown coal beds crop out; thence up the Waipa, a tributary of the former, for the purpose of visiting the harbours of Whaingaroa, Aotea and Kawhia on the West-coast, -- localities of great interest on account of the fossils found there. On Kawhia Harbour I discovered besides belemnites the first specimens of ammonite in New Zealand. From Kawhia, I proceeded in an inland direction through the upper Waipa country as far as the

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Mokau district. Hence across numerous bush ranges, I journeyed to the sources of the Wanganui River in the Tuhua district; and on the 14th of April I arrived at the extensive Lake Taupo, 1250 feet above the level of the sea, surrounded by majestic volcanic cones. Here I was in the very heart of the country, at the foot of the steaming volcano Tongariro, and its extinct, ever snow clad neighbour, the Ruapahu, 9200 feet high. At the South-end of the lake, there stands a missionary's house, where I met with a truly hospitable reception, my Maoris being hospitably entertained in the neighbouring Pah Pukawa by the famous Maori chief te Heuheu.

After having sketched the outlines for a map of the lake, and examined the hot springs on its shores, I followed, from where the Waikato leaves the lake, the remarkable line of boiling springs, solfataras and fumaroles, situated in the Bay of Plenty in a northeasterly direction between two active volcanoes: the Tongariro and the island-volcano Whakari or White Island on the East-coast. The Ngawhas and Puias of New Zealand, boiling fountains and geysers with silicious deposits as in Iceland, developing themselves on the grandest scale near the lakes Rotorua, Rotoiti, and Rotomahana, the lake-district of course demanded a prolonged stay. Iceland excepted, I consider this the most remarkable and most extensive hot-spring territory known.

In the beginning of May I reached the East-coast near Maketu, and proceeded along the coast as far as Tauranga Harbour; thence I turned inland towards the Waiho Valley, or the Valley of the New Zealand Thames, and struck again the Waikato near Maungatautari. I roamed through the fertile plains of the Middle Waikato Basin near Rangiawhia, paid a visit to the Maori King Potatau te Wherowhero in his residence Ngaruawahia at the junction of the Waikato and the Waipa; and towards the end of May, I passed down the Waikato, and returned to Auckland via Mangatawhiri.

The results of this nearly three months expedition were, in every respect, to my entire satisfaction. Greatly favoured by the weather, I did not meet with any insurmountable difficulties, although our way led through many a bog, river and almost inaccessible

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tracts of primeval forest. My travels happening to fall in the New Zealand autumn, after the gathering of the wheat and potatoe-crops, we experienced no want of provisions. We were always sure of being received with the heartiest welcome at the missionary stations scattered through the interior of the country; nor would the Maori chiefs be behind hand in receiving the Te Rata Hokiteta, as they called me in their native tongue, and my companions within their pahs with all due honour, and entertaining us with unfeigned hospitality. My Maoris behaved admirably; they were always ready and willing, and "merry as skylarks;" and, being moreover most zealously supported by my friends Haast, Hay, Koch and Hamel, the results were in every respect such as to gratify my most sanguine expectations. I had a considerable store of geographical, geological, botanical and zoological materials on hand; and for ethnographical studies, also, I had found ample opportunities.

However, the chief object I had always in view was the geology and geography of the country. In order to make geological surveys, I was obliged to work at the same time topographically; for the few existing maps of the interior were merely outlines traced on the evidence of the reports of missionaries and tourists. The sketch of a map I had brought with me from Auckland, presented nothing but standard-points for the coast; and at a distance of a few miles from Auckland it was but little better than a blank sheet of paper. From the very commencement of my travels, therefore, I had adopted by means of the Azimuth-compass, a system of triangulation which I based upon Captain Drury's nautical coast-survey, and carried through from the West-coast to the East-coast. The natives, who from an innate distrust of Government land-speculations were always certain to raise objections on seeing English engineers of the provincial corps upon ground not purchased by Government, with instruments for measuring and surveying, allowed me to proceed unmolested. They knew I was a stranger, and only on a short stay in the country; so they aided me in every way, that I might be able to give a fine and glorious account of their country on my return to my home. It was the chiefs

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themselves, who acted as guides; they would climb with me to the tops of mountains, whence I made my observations; they were ever ready to tell me the names of mountains, rivers, valleys and lakes, and in their own way instructed me in the geography of their country. I noted down carefully all the native names, and believe that I have rescued many a melodious and significant Maori-name from oblivion. 7 The peculiarities of the ground I always sketched on the spot; and thus procured a supply of reliable material, from which on my return to Auckland I compiled a topographical map on a large scale of the southern portions of the province; in fond anticipation of ampler leisure-time at some future period, when I should be enabled to subject the provisional sketch to a careful revision, and to draw from it some detailed maps of special districts. 8 The observations of the Royal Engineer's Observatory in Auckland, synoptical tables of which my friend, Colonel Mould, had the kindness to furnish me, served as corresponding observations for the barometrical measurements made during the journey. I must also make mention of numerous drawings and photographs executed by the members of the expedition; likewise of valuable sketches of landscape scenery from the talented pencil of Mr. Heaphy. 9

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A very interesting part of the country, in the vicinity of Auckland, still remained to be explored, viz. Cape Colville peninsula on the eastern coast of the Hauraki Gulf. The discovery of gold, in the neighbourhood of Coromandel Harbour on said peninsula, had created quite a sensation several years ago. Accordingly I availed myself of a few pleasant days in the month of June for the purpose of visiting the Auckland gold field, which, although bearing no comparison with the abundant and extensive gold fields of the South Island, yet offered much of geological interest. An intended visit to the copper mines of Great Barrier Island and of the Island Kawau, was, I am sorry to say, frustrated by inclement weather.

Thus my stay in the Province of Auckland was fast drawing to a close. Previous to my departure, at the request of the members of the Mechanics' Institute, I delivered in their hall, on the 24th of June, a lecture on the geology of the province, in which I presented a collective view of the chief results of my researches, illustrating the same by means of maps, plans drawings and photographs then ready, and exhibited at the occasion. 10 The arranging and packing of the collections, and the drawing of maps delayed my departure a few weeks longer; and that period of labour was followed by a pleasant time of social amusement and festive demonstrations up to my taking a final leave of the people of Auckland. Thousands of tokens of New Zealand were in my possession; my collections consisted of all sorts of lasting mementos of the forests and mountains of New Zealand; and it also became my pleasant duty to have to tender my warmest thanks the amiable inhabitants of Auckland for a special memorial of their kindness and generosity. On the 24th of July, on a festive occasion, a complimentary address couched in terms but too flattering to myself, was delivered to me in the name of the people of that province, accompanied by a valuable testimonial. 11

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May my friends on the other side of the globe permit me herewith to repeat to them my heartfelt thanks for the munificent present and for the honours and distinctions, with which they have been pleased to overwhelm me. May they also in my endeavours to present to them the full and detailed results of my various researches, in which they aided me so vigorously and extensively, recognize my earnest, eager desire to repay them a debt of gratitude.

I was very sorry, that from want of time I could not accept the kind invitations to make a stay also in Wellington, New Plymouth (Province Taranaki), and Ahuriri (Province Hawkes Bay), for the purpose of exploring those provinces, which according to the representations made to me by Messrs. J. Crawford in Wellington, A. S. Atkinson in New Plymouth, und Triphook in Ahuriri Bay, promised so many points of attraction. Nor could I avail myself of the Governor's kind and friendly invitation to accompany him on a trip to the southern parts on board the English man-of-war "Iris"; because I had accepted a prior invitation of the Superintendent of the Province Nelson to visit the Southern Island, which, however short the stay, seemed to me of the utmost im-portance. It was not merely the fine name of "the garden of New Zealand," as Nelson is styled, that enticed me to that step, but rather the manifold mineral treasures, such as copper, gold and coal, which had obtained for Nelson the fame of being the principal mineral and metal district in New Zealand. Besides, how could I think of returning to Europe without having seen, even though only from afar, the magnificent Southern Alps with their dazzling summits of perpetual snow?

Consequently, on the 28th of July, I went in company of my friend Haast on board the steamer "Lord Ashly" bound for Cook-Strait. As the steamer lay to near New Plymouth, and moreover, before entering Blind Bay, anchored off Wellington, the voyage to Nelson afforded me at least an opportunity of hasty visiting those places. Thus on the 30th July I enjoyed the magnificent view of the Taranaki Mountain (Mt, Egmont), 8270 feet high; and from the sugar-loaf cliffs of the Taranaki-coast I had an opportunity of

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studying the trachyte-lava of that volcanic cone, the most regular of all its kind upon New Zealand. After a stormy passage through Cook Strait we landed in Wellington on the 1st of August, and on the 3d we arrived in Nelson.

Mount Egmont, the Taranaki Mountain seen North-East from Otamatua.

The inhabitants of Nelson, who, already at the time of the Novara's stay in Auckland Harbour had tendered such a cordial invitation to the members of the expedition, gave me a most hearty reception in their city, where I found pleasant and commodious quarters already awaiting me in Mr. Luck's Trafalgar Hotel. The Provincial Government, with the amiable and excellent Superintendent, Mr. J. P. Robinson 12 at its head, had left nothing undone to enable me to make the best of my time in geological explorations. They placed the steamer "Tasmanian Maid" at my disposal, in order that I might examine the most important points on the shores of Blind Bay and Golden Bay in rapid succession.

The most beautiful weather fully confirmed the report of the far-famed climate of Nelson; and my first excursions opened to me so new and important a field of exploration, that I gladly decided on prolonging my stay, originally intended to last but one month, to the end of September. Thus I was enabled to subject the gold and coal fields in the vicinity of Nelson, and likewise the

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Dun Mountain copper-mines to a closer examination, and to trace out a geological map of at least the northern portions of the province.

The result of my researches with regard to the vaunted mineral wealth of that province was on the whole quite favourable. It is true, I could not confirm the sanguine belief of some enterprising miners as to the existence of inexhaustible though still undiscovered copper-treasures in the Dun Mountain; there were, however, beside some copper-ore, distinct evidences of a quantity of chromate of iron. But above all I was convinced, that if properly worked, the goldfields of the Aorere and Takaka Valleys near Golden Bay would prove very productive, and that the discovery and working of those first goldfields of New Zealand would be followed by that of new goldfields extending all along the mountain-range of the Southern Island. The discovery of such fields, I was certain, would in the course of few years secure for New Zealand an increasing importance amongst the gold-countries of the world. 13 Finally, besides beds of brown coal similar to those found in the North Island, there appeared in the Province of Nelson also traces of an older coal of better quality. The excellent but scanty coal-seams of Pakawau gave reason to hope that in other parts probably coal deposits may be found of larger dimensions and easier to work. Happily my friend Haast has since actually discovered such on the Buller and Grey Rivers, on the West-coast of the Province of Nelson. 14

My collections increased during my stay in the Province of Nelson to an extent quite unexpected. Upon the North Island I had searched in vain for remains of the extinct gigantic birds of New Zealand, for the bones of Dinornis and Palapteryx or for the Moas of the natives. Those researches were all the more successful on the Southern Island. The lime stone caves of the Aorere Valley opened to us rich stores of Moa bones. Through the exertions of my companion Dr. Haast not only single bones, but more or less complete skeletons were brought to light. To these was added

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an almost complete skeleton of Palapteryx ingens, a very valuable present given by the trustees of the Nelson Museum to the Imp. Geological Institution of Vienna. Two Kiwis (Apteryx Owenii Gould) living representatives of the wingless birds, which had been caught for me by natives in the mountains oti the Aorere River, formed an interesting counterpart to those remnants of extinct wingless birds of New Zealand. I may be allowed also to mention the kindness mid attention of my friends, Dr. D. Monro, W.T.L. Travers, Capt. Rough, N. Adams, H. Curtis, M. Mackay, Th. R. Hacket, Wrey, Wells, and many others, who by their liberal contributions of minerals, plants, and zoological specimens have helped me to complete my collections. To Messrs. A.L.C. Campbell and Burnett I am indebted for pretty landscapes and other sketches; and to the Provincial Government for numerous photographs of the environs of Nelson.

I was quite reluctant to leave a country, where so many discoveries and explorations remained still to be made. The pleasure of ascending to and penetrating the higher, remoted regions of the New Zealand Alps, at that time almost untrodden by the foot of man, was not in store for me. From Lake Arthur (Rotoiti), the southernmost point I reached in the southern Island, I saw from afar the stupendous peaks of the southern mountain-ranges with their summits of perpetual ice and snow glistering towards me. I was allowed but a distant glimpse of the grandeur and majesty of those mountains, which my friend and fellow-traveller, Dr. J. Haast, explored so successfully during the last years, under many difficulties and privations, but to the lasting honour of German perseverance and science.

My time had now almost expired, and I had to think of returning to Europe. In a lecture on the geology of the Province of Nelson, delivered on the 29th of September in the Wesleyan church, which had been most readily assigned me for the occasion, I presented a summary report of the results of my observations. A duplicate of this lecture illustrated by a geological map I transmitted to the Provincial Government of Nelson and to the

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Colonial Government of Auckland. 15 Amid the joyful recollections of those happy days, I can not pass over in silence the agreeable surprise made me by the inhabitants of Nelson by a most flattering address, 16 presented to me at the conclusion of my lecture, and accompanied by a beautiful and significant present of valuable specimens of the gold-fields of Nelson, which were enclosed in a box ingeniously composed of various kinds of New Zealand fancy woods.

On the 2d of October I embarked on board the steamer "Prince Alfred" bound for Sydney. Feeling at heart as though I parted from my native home, I waved a last farewell to my numerous friends assembled on shore, and bade adieu to the coast of New Zealand. A perfect stranger, I had met with a truly hospitable welcome and reception at the hands of the bravo and generous colonists on those distant shores. As a member of a Government Expedition, promoted by a magnanimous prince of an Imperial house for the noble ends of science, I was zealously supported in New Zealand by the representatives of a friendly Government. As a naturalist, I was most disinterestedly aided by men, who may justly be proud of belonging to a nation, whose banners wave in every quarter of the globe; a nation, that with equal energy pursues both the practical interests of life and the nobler ends of science and civilization. I was deeply impressed by the fact that the man of science, of whatever nation or country, is at home wherever he labours; and that the field of his researches, even though it were the remotest end of the earth, will become to him a second home.

After a short visit to the gold-fields of the Colony Victoria, I proceeded on board the steamer "Benares" via Mauritius and Aden to Suez, and on the 9th of January 1860 arrived in Triest, where, for the first time after an absence of almost three years I hailed again my native soil.

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Appendix.

A. Official documents.

Government House, Auckland, New Zealand,
January 4th 1859.
Sir,
I do myself the honour to express to you the gratification which the visit of His Imperial Majesty's Frigate "Novara" has afforded to the inhabitants of Auckland and to myself.

I beg also to convey to you and to the Officers of the scientific department of your Expedition my best thanks for the valuable information supplied by the investigations of these gentlemen.

It will be my agreeable duty to report to Her Majesty's Government on the subject, and I am satisfied, that Her Majesty will receive the communication with pleasure and will recognise the importance of the services rendered to one of Her Dependencies.

Wishing you a prosperous voyage and success in the interesting objects of your pursuit, I beg to subscribe myself

Your faithful servant
THOMAS GORE BROWNE,
Col. H.M.S. Governor of New Zealand.

Government House, Auckland, New Zealand,
January 5th 1859.
Sir,
Having already endeavoured to express my thanks to yourself and the Officers of the scientific department of your Expedition for the valuable aid afforded to this Colony, I now venture to ask you to confer a still greater favour, by giving permission to Dr. Hochstetter to extend his researches for a few months longer.

In the event of your granting this permission, the means necessary to enable him to explore effectually, will be provided at the expense of the Colony of New Zealand.

I feel less diffidence in making this request to you, as Representative of the Imperial Government, because Dr. Hochstetter's labours in this Colony may be made the means of furthering the objects, which His Imperial Majesty the Emperor of Austria had in view, when He despatched the Expedition under your command.

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I beg to add, that, should you feel it compatible with your duty to accede to the application I have now the honour to make, every assistance shall be afforded to Dr. Hochstetter, whilst engaged in this Colony, to enable him to make his scientific researches as valuable as possible to the Expedition of which he will remain a member, and care shall be taken to facilitate his return to Europe at the expense of this Colony by such route as he shall prefer.

I have honour to be
Sir Your most faithful servant
THOMAS GORE BROWNE,
Col. H.M.S. Governor of New Zealand.

On Board H.I.R.M. Frigate Novara, Auckland-Harbour,
January 5th 1859.
Sir,

I reply to your official Note, dated Government House, Auckland, January 5th a.c. in which, as the Representative of the Imperial Government, you prefer the request, that I would give Dr. Hochstetter permission to extend his geological researches in this colony for a few months longer, I am most happy to accede to your application, and to give Dr. Hochstetter, in his capacity as geologist of the Imperial Expedition, leave for that purpose, under the following conditions, which are nearly the same as those stated in your kind note.

1. That Dr. Hochstetter's sojourn in New Zealand may not exceed six months, and thus enable him to return to Europe nearly at the same period as the I.R. Frigate is most likely to arrive there, namely in November or December next.

2. That the Novara-Expedition, of which Dr. Hochstetter still remains a member, may likewise enjoy the benefit of the observations, collections and publications made by Dr. Hochstetter during his stay in New Zealand.

3. That the means necessary to enable Dr. Hochstetter to explore the Country effectually, shall be provided at the expense of the Government of New Zealand; that every assistance shall be afforded to this gentleman, whilst engaged in these geological explorations, and that care shall be taken to facilitate his return to Europe (viz. Trieste) at the expense of the Government of New Zealand by such route as he shall prefer.

Upon this understanding I shall not only consider it compatible with my duty, to accede to Your Excellency's application and give Dr. Hoch-

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stetter permission to remain for the time stated in the Province of Auckland, but shall also feel quite certain, that the Imp. Austrian Government, as well as the Academy of Sciences whose delegate Dr. Hochstetter must be considered, will be highly gratified to learn, that it was in the power of the first Austrian Exploring Expedition to become serviceable to a nation, which has done so much for the advancement of science and the development of natural resources in almost all parts of the world.

With hope that the friendly arrangement thus entered into on this subject may create a lasting bound of union and communication between the scientific men of both countries,

I have the honour to subscribe
Your faithful servant
B. v. WULLERSTORF.

B. Address presented by the inhabitants of Auckland.

Dr. Hochstetter,
On the conclusion of your Geological Examination of a large and most interesting portion of this Province of New Zealand, we, the assembled inhabitants of Auckland representing every section of the community, and for the most part intimately connected with the Agriculture and Commerce of the Province -- desire to express our admiration of the eminently scientific manner, and unwearied activity, with which you have conducted your researches into the Geological Formations and Mineral Resources of Auckland. We have also to thank you for the valuable information upon these objects, which you have already placed in our possession in the public lecture delivered by you in this hall on the 24th of June, and in the reports, you have forwarded to the General and Provincial Governments.

The report of a member of the "Novara" Expedition on the physical characteristics of this portion of New Zealand -- of which so little has hitherto been known -- will be acknowledged in Europe as both impartial and authentic.

To us, as a community, the information contained in that Report and the maps you have constructed, together with those additional details we hope to receive from you after your return to Europe, will be of essential service in a material point of view. We also desire to convey to you our sense of the impartiality of your reports -- which, whilst they lay open to our view those resources of the country that will eventually aid to its wealth and its general prosperity, in no way exaggerate their value or tend to lead to extravagant ideas or speculations that might only result in disappointment.

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Arriving in Auckland a stranger, upon whose sympathies we had no claim, you have exerted all your energies to condense the results of your scientific exploration into practicals forms, for the benefit of the people of the foreign country you visited for purely scientific purposes, or for the special advantage of your own country.

On all these accounts we feel, that our warmest thanks are due to you for your disinterested exertions for the promotion of our welfare. As an enduring testimony thereof, we request the acceptance of this Purse, -- the contents of which we beg you will devote to the purchase of some piece of plate, that we trust may be regarded by your family and your countrymen not only as a tribute of respect to your varied talents, but as a well-merited memento of the grateful acknowledgement by the people of the Province of Auckland of the eminent scientific and practical services rendered to them by you.

We are desirous that the plate should bear the following inscription:

"Presented to Dr. Hochstetter, Geologist attached to the Imperial Royal Austrian Scientific Expedition in the Frigate "Novara", by the inhabitants of the Province of Auckland, New Zealand, in testimony of the eminent services rendered to them by his researches into the Mineral and Agricultural resources of the Province."

Signed on behalf of the subscribers:
R. MOULD, JOHN WILLIAMSON,
Col, Com. R. Engineers, Superintendent,
Chairman of Committee. Province of Auckland.

C. Address presented by the inhabitants of Nelson. 17

Dr. Ferdinand Hochstetter,
Before your departure from among us, we, the inhabitants of the Province and City of Nelson beg to express to you our great obligations for the benefits which you have conferred upon us as a community.

Though we cannot but congratulate you upon your approaching return to your country and your family, we have strong personal reasons for looking upon it with regret. We feel, that it has been no light or trifling advantage to have had among us one of that small class of men, who conduct the great national Expedition by which the benefits of science are distributed over the world.

We know, that such an one comes invested with the highest possible authority to speak decidedly on the subjects of his investigations, and are sure that we may place the most implicit confidence in his statements. It

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is the great characteristic of such scientific pursuits, as you are engaged in, that, though on the one hand they are joined to the deepest and inmost principles of nature, on the other they are linked to the daily wants and commonest necessities of life. We believe therefore that your visit here will not be barren of practical results. We believe, that it will give us both a desire to develop, as far as possible, our share of the gifts of nature, and a knowledge how we may best do this.

We know, that we have had no special claims on you for the interest you have taken in our welfare. The advantage, which we have derived from it are, however, of such a kind, that both those who give and those who receive, may be proud of. We have had many opportunities of noticing how earnestly you pursue knowledge for its own sake, and are glad to find that those who do so, are the most ready to employ for the benefit of others what they have acquired themselves. You have done this in our case with considerable personal exertion and discomfort, which have been cheerfully encountered by your diligence and activity.

We do not wish to do more than allude to considerations of a personal kind. But we must express our appreciation of your courteous and kind behaviour towards us and assure you that few men could babe been among us for so short a time and have acquired so much of the character of a personal friend.

We beg your acceptance of the accompanying Testimonial, the product of our Goldfields, and we ask you to apply it to the purchase of a piece of plate, which may help to keep us in your remembrance and on which we ask you to place the following inscription:

"Presented to Dr. Ferdinand Hochstetter, Geologist to the Imperial Royal Austrian Scientific Expedition in the Frigate "Novara", by the inhabitants of the Province of Nelson, New Zealand, as a record of their appreciation of the great benefits conferred upon them and the Colony by his frank communication of the results of his zealous and able researches into the geological character and mineral resources of the Province."

We earnestly hope, that all good may go with you on your return to Europe, and that after a pleasant and speedy voyage you may reach in safety your home and friends. And with this wish we bid you heartily "Farewell".

Signed on behalf of the inhabitants of Nelson.
J.P. ROBINSON,
Superintendent of the Province of Nelson, New Zealand.