1873? Chapman's Settler's Hand-book to the Farm and Garden - THE KITCHEN GARDEN, FRUIT AND FLOWER GARDEN, By H. J. Hawkins, p 66-98

[Image of page 66]

THE KITCHEN GARDEN, FRUIT AND FLOWER GARDEN,

ARRANGED FOR THE

SEASONS AND CLIMATE OF NEW ZEALAND,

BY H. J. HAWKINS.

Situation of a Garden.--A gentle inclination towards the north, with a point to the east, should be preferred to one verging towards the south or west, as an exposure to the morning and mid-day sun, though the slope be moderate, is very favourable to the production of early vegetables and fruit. A moderate elevation should be preferred to the summit of a hill, or the bottom of a valley. The form of the garden is of little consequence, but where practicable, and appearance is taken into consideration, an oblong, running north and south in length, is perhaps the best.

Soil.--A moderately adhesive loam, resting upon a dry subsoil, is the best for all gardening purposes; but the thin yellow clays of the Province, if well worked and manured, will produce most kinds of vegetables and fruits in perfection, provided a dry situation be selected, or drained if too moist. Stiff clays should be avoided, if possible.

Trenching.--To grow tap-rooted vegetables, such as carrots, parsnips, &c., to perfection, the soil should be trenched to the depth of eighteen inches; but such a depth of soil will in no way benefit fruit trees, as their roots should not be allowed to penetrate deeper than twelve inches.

[Image of page 67]

Draining.--When the garden is small, and surrounded by a ditch, drainage may perhaps be dispensed with; but when of any extent, and the subsoil of a compact, retentive nature, it is absolutely necessary. "The principal advantages of drainage are, the deepening of the staple soil and rendering it more friable, so that a superfluity of water which would cause the formation of those chemical compounds that are found in stagnant water, is prevented. The greater depth of mould, and more perfect culture, render the soil more absorbant of moisture in dry periods of weather. As crops can be sown sooner on drained lands, they also ripen earlier and produce more abundantly. In short, while drained land obtains a greater capacity for moisture and manure, it imparts to plants greater capabilities for economically working up the materials which they find both in the soil and atmosphere, seeing they are maintained in the most healthy condition of growth."

Manures.--As no kind of soil, however good it may be, can continue to yield annual crops of vegetables and fruit, unless means are adopted to keep up its fertility, it is the duty of every person who possesses a garden, to store up everything that is likely to contribute to this end. A corner of every garden should be appropriated to the reception of all kinds of vegetable refuse, and a large tub or barrel should be placed near it, into which all slops of the house, soap-suds, &c., should be thrown. It would be an improvement if the tub was let into the ground, and covered with a lid. This corner may be hid from view by planting a row of laurustinus, or some other flowering shrub near it. A few observations on the different manures, and their application to various crops, may not be out of place here. Soap-suds are very valuable as a manure, so also is water used for personal ablution, and other domestic purposes. As liquid manure is immediate in its effects, it should never be used in too powerful a state, but should be well diluted with water: three gallons of water to one of pure urine will be sufficiently strong for most kinds of vegetables and flowers. Liquid manure may be applied to growing crops of cabbage, cauliflower, celery, rhubarb, asparagus, onions, &c., with great advantage, but should not be applied to

[Image of page 68]

carrots and parsnips. It may also be beneficially applied to fruit trees, when labouring under a heavy crop of fruit, and also to strawberries, when in flower or the fruit swelling, but should be discontinued when the fruit begins to ripen. Most kinds of flowers are benefitted by its use, particularly balsams, crysanthemums, &c. Liquid-manure should be applied to growing crops only. It should never be used when the soil is dry and arid, but in gloomy and showery weather, as it then sinks in with far greater expedition to the extreme points of the fibrous roots, or in other words, the mouths of the plants.

Compost-heap.--This may be formed in various ways, but the following is perhaps the most simple. Make a layer of earth about four inches deep, four feet wide, and eight feet long. On this throw all kinds of vegetable refuse, dung, night--soil, wood--ashes, etc., till it reaches about eight inches in thickness; then place on another layer of earth, and then another of dung, etc., and so on until it reaches about three feet high. The top layer should be of soil. During its formation, and particularly in dry weather, soap-suds, and other slops of the house should be thrown on it to keep it moist. The heap should be frequently turned, and well mixed together, and after each turning should be covered with a coating of earth, which will imbibe all the valuable gases as they escape from the heat. This will prove a valuable manure for all kinds of crops, and will greatly improve the texture of the soil. If the heap is to be applied to heavy soils, light should be used in its formation, but if the soil is of a light open character, clay will be found the most beneficial.

Guano.--This is the most powerful of all manures, and on that account requires greater caution in its use. It may be used in its powdery state, or mixed with water, as a liquid manure. It may be beneficially applied to nearly every kind of vegetables and flowers, cabbages and cauliflowers, turnips and lettuce, cucumbers and melons, balsams, camellias, and chrysanthemums. The Editor of the Botanic Garden says, "when applied to strawberries once a week in a liquid state (four ounces to a gallon), guano made them very vigorous and productive;

[Image of page 69]

but sprinkled upon some seedlings of the same fruit, it killed them. Two ounces per yard (five cwt. per acre) were sprinkled over onions, and they doubled the untreated in size." Mr. Rendle and other persons record, as the result of dearly-purchased experience, that where guano has failed to be beneficial, or has been injurious, it has been applied in quantities too powerful for the plants to bear. In the liquid state, half an ounce per gallon, and given to growing plants once a week, it never fails to be productive of vigour. Three cwt to the acre, or about two pounds and a half to every thirty square yards, is quite sufficient for any garden produce when applied in its powdery state; and, when diluted in water, should never be stronger than one ounce to each gallon--rather less than more. The liquid manure should be applied to healthy plants only, and during their season of growth. In making guano-water, it should be allowed to stand twenty-four hours, and frequently stirred. Guano, if not used immediately after being purchased, should be kept as much as possible from the influence of the atmosphere to prevent the escape of the ammonia.

Bone dust.--This is also a valuable manure, and one that can be applied to all crops without any injurious effects. It is either sprinkled over the soil and dug in, or, when used with potatoes, buried in the trench with the seed. "Bone manure," says the Editor of the Cottage Gardener, "whether merely ground bones, or those dissolved in sulphuric acid, is not only beneficial to cabbages and turnips, but to all garden crops and flowers. We have noticed very great benefit ourselves from applying it to peas, beans, asparagus, and strawberries." Sir Joseph Paxton and other writers consider it a valuable manure for grape vines. When strewed broadcast about six ounces to every square yard is considered an average dressing for poor soils. It may be said, of the two last-named manures, that guano is immediate in its effects, but not lasting; bone dust slow, but more enduring. Guano is more beneficially applied to heavy soils; bone dust to light. The effect of guano is more perceptible in winter and spring crops; while the properties of bone dust adapt it more for summer use. Guano, to be successfully applied to plants, requires

[Image of page 70]

some degree of skill; but bone dust may be used to all kinds of crops by the most inexperienced.

KITCHEN GARDEN.

Vegetables. --The principle should never be lost sight of in all branches of horticulture and floriculture that a good kind of anything under culture is as easily grown as an indifferent one, besides being more profitable and pleasant.

Cabbage. --The climate of this Colony is so favourable to the growth of the cabbage tribe that seeds may be sown, and plants put out, in ordinary seasons throughout the year: indeed less skill is required here to grow the various kinds of vegetables than in colder latitudes. A stiff loam, either naturally rich or made so by culture, is the best soil adapted to the growth of cabbage. Sow the seeds rather thickly, as it is better to thin out an abundance of plants than to lose the greater part of a thin crop by insects. As the roots of very young plants are not strong enough to bear removal, the best time for transplanting seedlings is when they have made from four to six proper leaves, the roots will be enabled to perform their proper functions. Plant in rows, from one foot to two feet and a half asunder, each way, according to the size of the cabbage, --the smaller kinds, such as early york, sugar loaf, &c., being planted the closest. Should the weather be dry at the time of planting, dip the roots of the plants into a puddle made of rotten cow-dung and water, which will greatly facilitate their striking. When the plants begin to close, give frequent applications of liquid manure, and let the earth between the rows have frequent stirrings.

Cauliflowers. --This very delicious vegetable is to be grown with as little difficulty as a cabbage. Sow seed in Feburary, to be planted out in March or April. The plants should be placed two feet apart each way The soil must be very rich, and the situation warm, and no plant is more benefitted by a weekly application of strong liquid manure, if applied as soon as the head begins to

[Image of page 71]

form. Another sowing should be made in May or June, to be planted out in August or September. If the plants are picked out when large enough to admit of being handled, it will add greatly to their future strength.

Brocoli. --All sorts of brocoli require a good, light, rich, loamy soil, and an open, warm situation. A sowing should be made in August or September of the purple cape or early white, and another in November; the first sowing to be transplanted about the beginning of November, and the plants of the second sowing about a month later will give a successive produce from February to May. For a successional supply of the walcheren, the best of brocoli, it is necessary to make sowings in September, November, and December, which will give a regular supply to the end of June. The plants are fit for pricking out when having five or six leaves rather more than an inch in breadth; set them four or five inches apart each way, and water every night until they have taken root, they should not again be moved until they have leaves nearly three inches in breadth. They require the same after-culture as cabbage.

Borecole or Kale. --The varieties of this cabbage-wort yield the most unfailing supply of sprouts for table from May to January. The first crop should be sown in August, which will be fit for pricking out in September, and for final planting in November, for production in May or June. Sow again in November, for final planting early in February, for use during July and August. With the exception of the Brussels sprouts, all the varieties must have their centre shoot, or heart, cut first, as this causes them to produce side-shoots, or sprouts; but of Brussels sprouts the side-shoots must be cut first, whilst firm, and about the size of a walnut. Cut the largest first, and the smaller will continue to increase, and must be cut as fast as they attain the above-named size.

Turnip. --A small sowing may be made in August, in a light rich loam, and another in September, and again in October. In February and March other sowings may be made, for winter use. Sow in drills nine inches apart, and when the plants have four or five leaves, thin them to at least nine inches from each other. Swede turnips

[Image of page 72]

may be sown in September and October, and again in February. These will thrive in a stiffer soil than the garden turnip, and should be allowed more room.

Carrot. --The soil should be warm, light, and rich, and dug full two spades deep. With the bottom spit turn in a little well-decayed manure, but no application of it to the surface should be allowed. Sow seeds in July for the production of plants to draw whilst young. At the close of August or beginning of September, the main crop should be sown. In February or March sow for autumn use. A calm day should be selected for sowing, and the seeds should be separated by rubbing them between the hands with the admixture of a little sand, otherwise they cannot be sown regularly. Sow thinly in drills eight inches apart for the smaller kinds, and twelve inches for the large in beds not more than four feet wide. The surface soil should not be pulverised too freely, or the first shower will dissolve it to mud, and the next sunshiny day bake it into an impervious cake. When the plants have four leaves two or three inches long, they should be thinned--those intended for drawing young, to four or five inches apart, and those to attain their full growth, to ten. The ground should be hoed at the time of thinning.

Parsnip. --This wholesome root will thrive in a stiffer soil than the carrot, but will answer well in one of a similar quality. Sow from the beginning of August to the middle of September. The parsnip requires the same culture as the carrot.

Pea. --Sow early varieties in June, and continue to sow every three weeks for succession throughout the next three months. Sow in drills, bishop's long pod and other dwarf varieties at two feet; the champion of England and marrowfats at three or four feet; and the gigantic varieties at six feet apart. Small seeds should be sown one inch deep, the large varieties at two. When the plants are two or three inches high, the rows should be hoed between, and earth drawn up to each side of them. Sticking is not required until the plants show their tendrils. Peas thrive best in a moderately rich soil. Fresh or stimulating manure should be avoided, as it causes them to grow too high. The following will be

[Image of page 73]

found to succeed on most soils:-- Sangster No. 1 for early, followed by bishop's long pod and the champion of England, which are two of the finest peas grown. The next is dwarf. Green marrow very late.

Kidney Bean. --The ground intended for beans should never be manured at the time of sowing, unless the soil is very poor, and then well-rotted manure should be used in preference to fresh. An early crop may be sown late in September; for a succession sow according to the demand, once a month. The rows for runners should be three feet apart, and the drills two inches deep. In dry weather, water the drills before sowing the seeds, which should be dropped in two inches apart.

Scarlet-runner Bean. --This prolific and important crop should be sown the first or second week in October. Scarlet-runners will thrive in nearly any soil. To ensure good crops, detached or single rows are preferable to sowing them in a plot, even if a good width be left between, which should never be less than three feet. If the roots are not disturbed during winter they will again shoot forth and produce abundant crops.

Broad Bean. --Early sown beans require a light, rich, dry soil; but for the main crop a cool--bottomed more tenacious soil is preferred. A sowing for first crop should be made at the end of May or beginning of June; and, where required, plantations may be made from the beginning of July to the end of August, once every three weeks. Sow in drills, four inches apart in the drill, and two inches deep, the drills three feet from each other. When the blossoms are fully expanded at the bottom, nip off the extreme tops; this prevents their running away in a long useless stalk, makes them more fruitful, and brings the bottom pods sooner into use.

Onion. --Sow for main crop during August and beginning of September, in drills from nine to twelve inches apart, in beds about four feet wide. The soil must be rich and the situation entirely free from trees. About six weeks after sowing give the first thinning and hoeing, leaving the seedlings about three inches apart. In about a month give another thinning, leaving the plants about six inches apart. Stir the soil between the rows at each thinning. The plants taken out may be replanted in

[Image of page 74]

rows nine inches apart, and six inches from each other. In planting care must be taken not to bury the bulb of the onion, inserting the roots only in the soil. It is a good practice before the tops change to a yellow hue to bend the stem down flat upon the bed, which not only prevents its running to seed, but increases the size of the bulb; the bend should be made about two inches up the neck.

Celery. --To obtain fine heads of celery the trenches should be well prepared, and the plants should not be checked in their growth by injuring their roots in removing them, or by neglecting to water them, or by a deficiency in the supply of manure. Sow seed from the middle of August to the middle of September. A seed will not vegetate unless within the influence of moisture, air, and heat; be careful not to sow your seed too deep or they may never come up. The trench should be dug eighteen inches deep, and thirty inches wide. Manure with pig or horse dung, and bone dust, well mixed together. Plant out in October and November, putting the plants twelve inches from each other. The trenches should be in an open situation, as the plants never attain a large and vigorous growth, if shaded by beans, peas, or trees. Should the weather be very dry and hot, the plants ought to be protected in the day from the scorching sun, and water should be given freely after sunset. When the plants have attained the height of twelve inches, they should be tied round with something of a softish texture, and all lateral shoots should be taken off. As the plants grow, they should be earthed up a little at a time, taking care not to earth them over the centre of the heart, which causes them to rot; the soil used for earthing them up cannot be too light or sandy. Liquid manure may be applied once a week. Another sowing may be made in February or March for spring use.

Asparagus. --Plant in August, or early in September, in deep, light loam, abundantly supplied with rich, thoroughly decayed dung. It is scarcely possible to overmanure asparagus. Set the rows two feet apart, and ten inches from plant to plant. When started into growth, apply slight dredgings of salt and a little guano in rainy weather. If the manures are sprinkled on the surface of

[Image of page 75]

the soil when dry, this should at once be well scarified, and then well soaked with water. No heads should be cut the first year after planting, and very few the second, and at no time should they be cut after the beginning of December. Observe a due moderation in taking the crop, as the shoots when much cut become every year smaller and less valuable. In the autumn, when the stalks are yellow, cut them down about an inch above the soil. Fork the beds over, and remove about an inch of the surface soil; then apply a good coat of very rotten manure regularly over the bed, sprinkle some common salt, about three ounces to every square yard, cover the whole with the earth previously removed, and then leave undisturbed until August, when the beds should be again carefully forked over, and the manure and soil well broken up and incorporated together. Give a good dose of liquid manure, either natural or artificial--the slops of the house, which always contain a large, quantity of salt, will prove very exhilarating to the plants, if sufficiently diluted with water. From two to three inches of soil above the crowns of the plants are sufficient. The shoots should never be cut until they are six inches above ground, and cut them only half an inch below the surface; and the flavour will be very superior to that which has scarcely seen daylight. By this cutting, the rising shoots are not likely to be injured. The seed of the asparagus may be sown in August or September.

Cucumber. --When grown without the aid of glass-- Seeds may be sown in October and November, in rich light loam; but avoid using fresh or stimulating manure. They should be lightly shaded from the meridian sun, as too great a heat is likely to affect the growth of the young fruit. The ground being regularly dug over, saucer-like hollows should be made about fifteen inches in diameter, and one or two deep, and formed five feet apart, in each of which six or seven seeds may be sown. If the weather be dry, it is requisite to water the patches moderately two or three days after sowing; and when in growth should be watered every two or three days, in proportion to the dryness of the season. The future management depends entirely on what is wanted. If a great number of small fruit be the object, all that set

[Image of page 76]

may be allowed to grow, or at least very moderately thinned. If fine cucumbers are required, three are enough to be swelling on one vine at the same time, and the terminal points of each vine should be pinched off. The seed of cucumbers, melons, and other plants of the gourd tribe should not be sown until they are several years old as they will then produce plants with a scanty foliage but abundant fruit. The telegraph and prince of wales are excellent cucumbers; the former very quick in its growth, but the latter is larger and more prolific.

Rhubarb. --Sow seeds in August or September, in drills three feet apart, and about half-an-inch deep, the plants to remain where raised. When they make their appearance, thin to six or eight inches asunder, and loosen the surface of the ground about them with the hoe. At the close of the summer finally thin them to three feet, allowing the strongest to remain. The soil should be light, deep, and moderately moist, and should be made rich by an abundant supply of manure. Where plants are used, trenches should be prepared, two feet deep and the same in width, early in the autumn, so that the plants may be inserted as soon as procured. Place the plants down the centre of the beds prepared for them, three feet apart. Make the hole deep enough to bury the collar of the root three inches, and close the earth about them, A few of the first developed leaves may be taken the first year, but moderation is recommended, as the more they are cut, the less productive they will be next season. Rhubarb should always be planted in a shaded situation as their stems will be finer and better when not too much exposed to the sun. Rhubarb is no chance crop; it never fails; it depends not upon seasons; is not affected by blight; and is, without exception, the most useful and wholesome of the substitutes for green fruit. No garden should be without it.

Vegetable Marrow and Pumpkin. --These require similar culture to the cucumber, but are more hardy. Not more than three seeds should be placed in each hollow, and the hollows should be eight or nine feet apart.

Artichokes. --Plant in August or September, in any soil, but a free light loam should be preferred. When

[Image of page 77]

the suckers are eight or ten inches high, in open weather select such as have much of their fibrous roots, and are sound, and not woody. The brown, hard part by which they are attached to the parent stem must be removed, and if that cuts crisp and tender, the suckers are good, but if tough and stringy, they are useless. Set in rows, the suckers three feet apart, and about half their length beneath the surface. Water them abundantly every evening until established. Place some mulch, that is, littery dung, about their roots when planted, to remain during the whole summer. Remove all small weak suckers about the end of October. If well manured, the plants will produce heads the first year, and by annual mulching, and frequent applications of liquid-manure, will continue to do for several years. Artichokes can be raised from seeds; but suckers should be preferred.

Jerusalem Artichokes should be planted about the same time and in the same manner as potatoes, and require similar after culture. Select a spot apart from the vegetable garden, otherwise this plant may spread and become a complete nuisance.

Potato. --This valuable root requires a moderately light and rich soil, and an open situation. For early crops plant in the beginning of July, and continue during the remainder of the month and the beginning of August. September is probably the best month for planting the main crop, but heavy crops have been taken from sets planted in October, and even as late as November, when the season has been moist, or the soil of a naturally damp nature. Pieces should never be used as sets for early crops; and even for later planting the preference should be given to whole sets of a moderate size. Sets should be planted not less than eight inches deep, as experience has taught us that deep planted potatoes are less liable to be attacked by the worm than those planted shallow, and taking up the crop as soon as the leaves begin to turn yellow will generally prevent its attack. Potatoes should be dug up dry, and not stored until perfectly so.

[Image of page 78]

MONTHLY KITCHEN GARDEN CALENDAR.

JANUARY.

Potato-onions may be taken up as soon as the stems are withered. Collect the seeds of vegetables as they ripen. Keep the earth stirred between growing crops.

FEBRUARY.

If the weather is favourable, the seeds of most kinds of vegetables may be sown. Bend down the necks of onions; the bend should be about two inches above the bulb.

MARCH.

Earth up celery, adding but little soil at a time, and apply liquid manure once a week. Sow winter spinach on a rich light soil, in a dry situation, as well as cabbage, cauliflower, turnip, carrot, &c.

APRIL.

Commence planting potato-onions in a rich, light soil. The soil cannot be too dry at the time of planting. Earth up growing crops.

MAY.

Continue to plant potato-onions. Sow seeds of the various vegetables to stand the winter.

JUNE.

Take advantage of every opportunity for digging and manuring the land for spring crops. Mulch the crowns of rhubarb--this will greatly forward their growth. Early varieties of peas, beans, and cabbage may now be sown. Plant early potatoes in a light, warm, and dry soil. Rake up dead leaves, and store them for manure, for if left upon the ground among the crops, they afford shelter for slugs and other vermin.

[Image of page 79]

JULY.

Onions may now be planted for seed, about three inches deep and one foot apart. Sow radish, lettuce, &c. Continue to plant early potatoes. Plant out cabbage, lettuce, &c., as they are ready. Sow the larger sort of peas, and earth up and stake those that require it--as the celery advances a little earth may be filled into the trenches. Fork and dress asparagus beds.

AUGUST.

Sow spinach in well pulverised rich soil, in drills from one foot to eighteen inches apart. If the surface of the ground is sufficiently dry, sow main crop of onions and other seeds. Sow parsley seed. Sow tomatoes, capsicums, chillies, sweet marjoram, &c. Earth up peas and beans that are well above ground, and make further sowings. Sow rhubarb seeds in drills about three feet apart, and half an inch deep. Plant asparagus roots in deep light soil with rich decayed manure.

SEPTEMBER.

Get in all the ordinary spring crops. If the main crop of onions was not got in last month, it should not be delayed after the beginning of this. The main crop of potatoes should be in by the end of this month. Plant jerusalem artichokes. Earth up growing crops.

OCTOBER.

Now that the principal spring and summer crops are sown and making some progress, strict attention must be paid to cleanliness, by keeping them free both from weeds and vermin. The crops must be thinned in good time, and the hoe well and frequently used, to keep the soil in an open porous condition, so that the air may be freely admitted. Sow, cucumbers, pumpkins, and vegetable marrows.

NOVEMBER.

See last month. Continue to sow cucumbers, pumpkins, vegetable marrow, kidney beans, and scarlet runners. Potatoes may still be planted in moist situations. Plant out brocoli for autumn use, and make further sowings

[Image of page 80]

of the walcheren for winter. Earth up celery. Gather herbs for drying just before they are in full flower.

DECEMBER.

Attend to growing crops, and destroy all weeds and vermin. Water if necessary all crops lately planted

FRUIT GARDEN.

Selecting Fruit Trees. --The object of the cultivator should be, to procure trees that will afford a continuous supply of fruit, instead of merely obtaining a number of large trees, as is too often the case. As one kind of fruit tree naturally grows more robust than another, every purchaser should endeavour to ascertain the size to which the different kinds usually grow, and then select the most healthy and best shaped of the kind. The slow growing varieties frequently produce the choicest kinds of fruit, and are generally very prolific.

Arrangement of Fruit Trees. --Little, if any, attention is paid to this part of fruit growing, the trees being generally planted promiscuously. It is useless selecting trees for the purpose of giving a succession fruit, unless some care is bestowed on the arrangement. When the garden is level, and the temperature the same throughout, it is of little consequence how they are arranged; but there are few gardens in this province that do not possess a snug warm quarter, and in such quarter the early and tender varieties of fruit trees should be placed. To explain more fully, --if three varieties of plums, the morocco, orlean, and golden drop, are planted in the same situation, and receive the same culture, they will ripen their fruit in the following order--morocco, middle of January; orlean, early in February; and golden drop in March; thus giving a succession of fruit for seven or eight weeks. But if the golden drop is planted in a warm sheltered spot, the morocco in a cold and exposed situation, and the orlean in one of a medium temperature, the fruit of the three kinds would probably ripen at the same time; and instead of giving a succession

[Image of page 81]

of fruit, would only yield a glut of about three weeks' duration. Reverse the position of the morocco and golden drop, and the former will ripen much earlier, and the latter much later. The above observations will apply to the pear, and other fruits. Some trees, like the glout morceau pear, require a large amount of heat to mature their fruit, while the crassanne pear is benefited by being planted in a cool situation. When making a selection, request the nurseryman, not only to lable each tree with its proper name, but also with its respective merits, and arrange them accordingly.

Planting. --May is the best month for planting all kinds of deciduous trees. The soil should be previously prepared, so that the trees may be planted as soon as obtained. In scoria and other light soils, a few inches of clay should be placed at the bottom of the holes, in which are to be planted the roots spread on its surface, and then covered with the ordinary soil. Fruit trees should never be planted deeper in the soil than six or eight inches, when placed in the soil the roots should be spread out horizontally like the toes of a fowl when it treads on the ground, and covered lightly with a fine rich earth. The soil should then be gently pressed with the foot, but not violently, as is often done. A better plan is to wash the soil about the roots with a plentiful supply of water, particularly if the soil is wet at the time of planting. The remainder of the earth should then be added, and if the soil is of a light open nature, a mulching of littery manure should be given. The roots should be examined before planted, and all coarse, and especially tap-roots, trimmed, but all fibrous roots preserved from injury. Place the manure above the roots, and prevent as much as possible their entering the subsoil. If the tree is young, it should be cut down to about eight inches; and if a few years old, and furnished with a head, should be supported with a stake firmly driven into the ground, to which it should be bound with some soft material. In wet situations, or retentive clays, the trees should be planted on the surface of the ground, and the roots covered with about four inches of soil.

Pruning and Training. --Under this head little advice can be offered, as no one system of pruning or training

[Image of page 82]

can be beneficially adapted to all kinds of trees. A modern writer on the subject says "those who are strangers to the cultivation of fruit trees, and, as such, undertake the management of an orchard, will be surprised and perplexed at the anomalies which continually present themselves. It will then be evident that gardening cannot, in its routine, be learned from books; that one tree assumes a certain mode of growth; another developes in an order which has not been foreseen or contemplated; one forms its fruitful spurs spontaneously without solicitation or the adoption of means; while another, in spite of the most rigid foreshortening, continues for years to yield nothing but leafy shoots." Such being the case, we can merely advise that, previous to pruning, it would be well to acquire some practical information, and then, by studying the peculiarities of each tree individually, the young pruner would soon discover what treatment it required. In pruning, always cut towards you, beginning at the back of a bud and ending just above it.

Root-pruning. --The object of the cultivator should be to procure fruit as early as possible, without injuring the constitution of the tree; and if the directions given respecting planting be carefully carried out, most kinds of trees will become fruitful in three or four years. But if the roots are allowed to penetrate deeply into the soil, or the soil in which they are planted is very rich, the trees will become very vigorous, and consequently barren, or nearly so. To attempt to produce fruitfulness by pruning the branches, only adds to the luxuriance of the tree; but if the tree is deprived of a portion of its roots, its luxuriance receives a check, and fruitfulness follows. Mr. Errington, writing on the subject, says, "When over-luxuriance is the cause of unfruitfulness, a system of root-pruning must be practised." Sir Joseph Paxton says, "The things on which fruitfulness most depends, are their first planting, and after root-pruning, when necessary." Mr. Glenny, writing on the same subject, says: "Root-pruning is unquestionably the safest and best method of checking the exuberance of a growing tree, and causing it to bear. If a tree is growing moderately, and producing fair average crops of fruit, it requires no

[Image of page 83]

interference with its roots, but if, on the other hand, a tree is growing very vigorously, to the manifest injury of its fruitfulness, then, to have it taken up and replanted, shortening back some of the strongest of the roots, or to dig down and shorten the roots without lifting the tree, is the most likely means that can be adopted to bring it to a state of fruitfulness." The roots should be pruned as early in May as possible. Mr. Baily, gardener to the Archbishop of York: says, "I have paid much attention to the management of fruit trees, and feel convinced that the great object we should have in view is to secure a shallow stratum of sound, pure loam on a dry and impervious bottom; to avoid mutilating the surface roots by cropping the borders with vegetables; not to apply rank and stimulating manures; and to keep the mass of soil always open, healthy, and permeable to the sun, air, and rain, using especial precaution that excess of the latter is not permitted to saturate the soil. Nothing, in my opinion, is more injurious to fruit trees than cropping of the soil in which they are planted." The injury here named is the destruction of the fibrous roots near the surface of the soil which always takes place when the ground beneath the trees is dug. These roots impart a higher flavour to the fruit than those that are deep in the soil: hence one advantage of shallow planting.

Grafting and Budding. --Grafting and budding consists in uniting with the stock, which is a tree perfectly useless, a branch or a bud of another tree, that is of a fine sort, and by that means changing the very nature of the subject; because the branch or bud once united, becomes a part of the tree, and all the rest of the stock being prevented from growing, the graft or the bud alone becomes the head of the tree, and the fruit is what was required by the change. The art of grafting is to join the wood of the tree to be grafted on so neatly to the piece to be grafted, as that the two barks shall meet close. This is done by various means: simplicity, however, in all such operations, is very desirable. The conditions are few and simple. Choose a proper stock and graft--let the bark of the graft and the stock touch each other on one side at least, tie firmly, cover the wound from the air, and operate at a right season,

[Image of page 84]

These conditions ensure the union of the graft and stock. If the stock be larger than the graft, the graft must be made to fit somewhere, in one of the following ways:-- 1. Cut a flat side to the stock, and a flat side to the graft, and fasten the two flat sides together, so that the bark of the stock shall join the bark of the graft on one side. 2. Cut an angular gutter down one side of the stock, and cut the graft to an angle to fit it, with its bark outside joining the bark of the stock, and if it is a fit, nothing can prevent their uniting. The operation is performed early in September. With regard to the budding, a single leaf of a good fruit tree, with its bud at the base, has to be detached from the branch by shaving off a bit of the bark, with the leaf attached. This is done in January or thereabouts. The bark of the stock is slit down an inch, and a cut made across, so that the bark can be raised from its wood, and the leaf with its bit of bark, and the bud at its base, is tucked under the bark of the stock, which is made fast on it with a piece of tape, and the bud soon unites and becomes a part of the tree. All the other parts being taken away, the bud grows and forms a head.

Apple. --The apple will thrive in almost any kind of soil, provided it is not too wet or too light; but a good strong loam suits it best. This climate is somewhat too warm for most of the old kinds, causing the fruit to grow to a large size at the expense of flavour: but some few are improved by it, the royal russet being one. Apples should have the coolest part of the garden allotted them.

Pear. --This fruit is more adapted to the climate of Auckland than the apple, and ought to be extensively cultivated. When grafted on a free stock, that is, a pear stock, it will thrive on a poorer soil than the apple, and will last much longer; but when grafted on a quince stock, they require a soil more rich, and moderately moist.

Plum. --The soil in which plums are planted should be moderately rich, but neither too light or dry, nor stiff and retentive of moisture. Damp soils are very injurious to all kinds of fruit trees. The plum is very hardy, and easily managed; and if properly planted will soon become prolific, though some kinds are more free in their bearing than others. The morocco, orlean, greengage,

[Image of page 85]

golden drop, and ickworth imperatrice are all good plums, and would give a succession of fruit from the middle of January to the end of April.

Cherry. --A good, light, friable, loamy soil is the best for the cherry, neither too rich nor too poor. The roots of the cherry are very rambling in their habits, and very prolific of suckers--the latter should be removed as they appear, and the roots occasionally shortened. The cherry is one of the earliest fruits, and the earlier they ripen the more valuable they are; therefore the trees should be grown as open as possible, to admit the light and air, which not only promotes their health and vigour, but imparts to the fruit an agreeable flavour. The early may duke is one of the best cherries, and should be in every garden.

Peach. --The peach tree may be seen growing in all soils and situations, bearing heavy crops of fruit, but generally of a very indifferent quality. No fruit is more injured by a damp subsoil than the peach, and no other kind of stone fruit so readily strikes its roots downwards, particularly if the subsoil is of a rich nature. The soil, therefore, in which the peach should be planted, should be rich on the surface, and poor and dry below, as the richness of the surface --soil would prove attractive to the roots, and would partly prevent their striking downwards. The peach should not be allowed to bear too heavy a crop, but should have the fruit thinned when about the size of walnuts. The above remarks apply also to the nectarine.

Grape-Vine. --Ripening the wood thoroughly is undoubtedly the basis on which to ground all the operations necessary for successful vine-culture; and whatever plan will tend to make the vine short-jointed, and to ripen the wood, will be found to hasten the ripening of the fruit. Any light, sandy, and porous soils are by far better adapted for the vine than those of a tenacious or clayey character; for the latter, by maintaining a permanent moisture in hot weather, are sure to produce long-jointed shoots. Without securing a dry bottom, it is impossible to maintain success in vine culture. If the soil is of a tenacious character, coarse sand, burnt clay, charred rubbish, and oyster shells, should be incorporated with it

[Image of page 86]

and a little decomposed manure may be added to the mass. If the soil is light and porous, a little bone dust, whole bones, woollen rags, and old leather, will prove beneficial. The vine bears on shoots of the present season, out of wood of the last season; care should therefore be taken to preserve a sufficient quantity of last season's growth. It is said that the grape-vine may be protected from the oidium by placing a pound of sea salt in a hole near the foot of each vine.

Disbudding signifies the removal of every opening bud, at the period of leafing, which is not needed for the present year's crop, or for filling up some space which would otherwise remain bare. Thinning-out consists in going over the vines again about the time they commence blossoming, and then making a final selection of the shoots to be allowed to remain. Stopping is pinching off the ends of those shoots which are to remain, and is generally performed at one joint beyond the one bearing the bunch; that is to say, one joint and one leaf only beyond the bunch.

Strawberry. --It is generally recommended to plant the strawberry in a naturally rich soil, or one made so by an abundant supply of manure, --and doubtless the largest fruit is obtained by this means; but heavy crops of high-flavoured fruit have been grown on soils of medium quality, by the application of liquid manure or guano--water during the season of flowering and swelling of the fruit. Strawberry beds should be formed in February or March, if the soil is in fit condition for planting. Plant in rows two feet apart, and eighteen inches between the plants. As soon as planted give a copious watering, if the weather is dry. Strawberry seeds sown in February will produce bearing plants the following season. Select a light rich soil, sow the seeds on the surface, and cover them very lightly with fine earth. Give a watering if necessary.

Fig. --The fig will thrive in any well-drained soil, but one somewhat adhesive suits it best. The young tree should not be stimulated too much by the application of manure; but old trees, either in a bearing state, or that have become exhausted by over-cropping, will be greatly benefited by the use of liquid-manure or guano-water.

[Image of page 87]

Quince. --The quince thrives best in a rich strong soil, moderately moist. If properly planted, it requires little after culture--merely thinning the branches when too thick, and the fruit when too heavily laden.

Gooseberry. --The gooseberry should be planted in a rather adhesive soil, moderately moist and rich. It should not be pruned so open here as in colder climates, as the sun's rays cause the young fruit to prematurely ripen when about the size of large peas. The finest fruit will invariably be found on the shady part of the bush.

MONTHLY FRUIT GARDEN CALENDAR.

JANUARY.

Vines and fruit trees should be regularly looked over, and all weak and superfluous shoots removed. Bud fruit trees.

FEBRUARY.

Form strawberry beds if the soil is in fit condition for planting. Sow strawberry seeds--give a watering, if necessary. Continue to bud fruit trees.

MARCH.

Strawberry runners may yet be planted--the earlier done, the better they will bear next season. Most kinds of apples and pears should be gathered during dry weather. To ascertain whether they are ready for gathering, raise them gently, and if they part readily from the tree, or if, on cutting one through the middle, the seeds are becoming brown, they may be taken. Early kinds should be gathered before they are quite ripe.

APRIL.

If new plantations of strawberries were not made in February or March, make them now. Prepare the ground for the reception of fruit trees next month.

MAY.

Plant fruit trees. Clean strawberry beds, and give a

[Image of page 88]

top dressing of fresh soil and dung mixed. If in rows, dig between them, and spread a little of the fresh soil over the plants.

JUNE.

Anything neglected last month should be attended to this. Prune all kinds of fruit trees. Remove all suckers from trees. Strike cuttings of the vine, gooseberry, &c. Wherever fruit is too thick, let it be thinned, for a tree may be easily injured by being allowed to bear too much.

JULY.

Continue to plant out cuttings of the various fruits. Mulch newly-planted trees. Prune the vine, by cutting down shoots that bore last year.

AUGUST.

Sow the stones and pips of the various fruits. Graft trees at the end of the month.

SEPTEMBER.

Graft fruit trees. Disbud the vine. Rock and water melons may be sown in warm and sheltered spots at the end of the month.

OCTOBER.

Disbud vines. Remove all suckers from fruit trees and bushes as they appear, and frequently loosen the soil about them by a slight hoeing. If the runners of strawberries are not wanted for propagation, cut them off as they impoverish the plant. Water them regularly and copiously, if the weather renders it necessary. Sow melons.

NOVEMBER.

Thin out the vine; and continue to sow rock and water melons. Train fruit trees, and remove all superfluous shoots.

DECEMBER.

Stop the vine, and remove all lateral or auxiliary shoots. The general period for stopping is about a week after the young bunch shows what its character will be. Commence budding.

[Image of page 89]

FLOWER GARDEN.

Flowers have in all ages been cultivated by persons of leisure and taste, for the beauty and variety of their forms, colours, and fragrance. While generally healthy and exhilarating, from its being pursued in the open air, flower-culture is justly reckoned a pure and harmless recreation, which, by leading to the tranquil contemplation of natural beauty, and diverting the mind from gross worldly occupations, has a positively moral, and therefore highly beneficial tendency. It often serves to awaken in previously listless minds a spirit of enquiry respecting the great phenomena of nature and the laws of vitality, which so vividly exemplify the wisdom, and power, and goodness of the Creator. It is therefore available as a useful auxiliary of education, as a stepping-stone to science; and as a means of elevating the moral character of a people, and their religious emotions.

No flower garden can be said to be even respectably managed, where the walks are ill-drained, badly defined, neglected, and covered with moss and weeds. If every other part of the garden be kept in perfect order, and yet the walks be even partially neglected, they give an air of desolation to the whole. On the other hand, if the walks are dry, clean, and neat, a stroll in the garden will be endurable, though the grass may be rank, and the weeds rampant in the other parts.

In placing the flower--beds, we should be guided by the manner in which we propose to lay out the garden. If the beds are divided from each other by grass lawn, they should be placed near the principal walk. They should be of lengthy forms, rather narrow, so as each plant can be distinctly seen. These long nrrrow shapes can be more easily managed than broad heavy masses. Weeds can be removed; the beds hoed and raked; the flowers tied up or pegged down, as they require; water can be applied more easily; and the flowers gathered more readily. Also, by having beds of such forms, there is, in performing the necessary operations, less need to set a foot upon them--a pressure always to be avoided.

[Image of page 90]

Another point to be attended to is, to form the beds of different sizes, some of smaller dimensions than others. The lesser beds will then conveniently serve to receive one kind of flowers, such as groups or masses of scarlet geraniums, verbenas, petunias, calceolarias, heliotropes, and other dwarf flowers. These small plots of flowers should be placed in such situations as to be well exposed to view. A very good place for some of them is on the parts of the lawn between the shrubbery and the main walk. They may be chiefly of the two beautiful forms--the oval and the circle; these are more graceful than straight-sided beds, and, on account of their size, are equally as convenient to manage as the larger lengthy forms.

Small gardens are generally laid out with a round or oval bed in the centre; a narrow walk round it; and the rest forms a border, in which, as well as in the centre bed, are grown trees, shrubs, and flowers. This plan is very simple, and if judiciously planted, and neatly kept, is, perhaps, the best way of arranging such small plots. Some such gardens have a square or round grass plot, with a border round it; but grass, in such a situation, is exceedingly troublesome. If it is not frequently rolled and mown, it soon becomes thin of grass, mossy, and out of order, besides taking up the room which might be occupied with flowers.

It is the desire of every one who possesses a garden, to have as much variety of colour and succession of gaiety throughout the season as the situation and means of the possessor can accomplish; yet, in viewing most gardens, even where expense is not an object, borders devoted to the cultivation of particular plants may frequently be observed to be attractive only when such plants are in blossom, and looking bare, if not unsightly, after the bloom is over. Supposing equal skill in the cultivation of plants in general to exist among gardeners, the great superiority in effect of one garden beyond another, consists in the distribution and arrangement of the plants, themselves, so that a succession of blossom, and a due contrast of colour should, where practicable, keep every border furnished even to the end of autumn.

An error not uncommon in deciding what flowers shall

[Image of page 91]

be planted, is to select numbers merely for their rarity or novelty, without reference to what will be their appearance when in bloom: a plan that generally leads to disappointment. Unless for botanical illustration, make a choice of flowers on two principles--those which will be beautiful when in bloom, although common; and those which will bloom at the particular seasons required, to insure a succession of variegated beauty from spring to autumn.

The design of the flower-gardener is less to produce size and strength in his plants than to cause them effectually to bloom: he wishes a fine corolla. It is proper, then, to mention, that whatever tends to give excessive vigour to the stems will prevent the formation of flower-buds. Thus a too rich and moist soil, or recent manure, is injurious.

No annual flower should be sown, nor any plant permanently placed, without first endeavouring to ascertain the height they grow, the colour of their flowers, and their season of flowering; after which something like arrangement may be attempted as regards the proper position for each in the borders or beds. Of height nothing need be said, except that the dwarfest should be placed nearest the edges, the other rows rising in height and massiveness as they recede; but respecting colour, the simple fact that some colours being placed near each other have a better and more harmonious effect than others, will at once be admitted; and particular attention is directed to this. The principal things to be avoided are--the placing of rose-coloured or red flowers next scarlet or orange; or orange next yellow; blue next violet; or rose next violet: on the contrary, the following colours harmonise--orange with light blue; yellow with violet; dark blue with orange yellow; white with pink or rose; lilac with yellow; white will relieve any colour, but should not be placed next yellow.

In flower-garden scenes it is sometimes desirable, in order to create a variety, to adopt various modes and objects to attain such a varied appearance as will produce effects agreeable to the eye and taste. A cheap way to accomplish this is to place rustic baskets in proper situations, filled with rich light earth, ready to receive suitable

[Image of page 92]

plants. You must not forget the drainage, which is best made of small stones and rough charcoal mixed, and the holes in the bottom of each to allow the superabundant moisture to escape freely. The plants that are proper for vases or baskets are, for one a fuchsia of a drooping habit in the centre, german stocks of various sorts around it, with the canary-coloured nasturtium as a drooper to hang over the edges. For another, a blue sage plant (Salvia patens) in the centre, with clarkia pulchella next to it, edged with dwarf fairy roses, and a mauranclya barclayana for the weeper. A thin coating of living green moss would be ornamental, and would preserve the roots from the too sudden changes of the atmosphere. In dry weather they will require well soaking with water once a week.

There is no kind of shrub, however beautiful, that is used to ornament a garden scene, so well adapted to take various forms as the rose. It can be used as a dwarf tiny plant to fill the smallest bed; as a bush to plant among other shrubs; as one to plant in beds of larger dimensions in groups; as a tall standard to form avenue of roses on each side of a walk; standards can also be planted in groups on a lawn. These also are often planted in the centre of large circular bed, with halfstandards around them and dwarfs in front, thus forming an amphitheatre of roses, which, when in bloom, is one of the finest sights in the floral garden. It can also be used to cover naked banks and dry rocks, and as a climber to ornament the amateur's villa, or the more humble abode of the settler or artisan; also to plant against naked walls or palings, and to form drooping shrubs, when grafted on high standards, to wave gracefully their boughs, laden with fragrance and bloom, in the warm gales of summer and autumn. All these forms are very beautiful, but amidst them all, elegant though they be, there are none that show off the beauty and grandeur of the rose with such effect as training them up pillars or poles. The poles, when single, ought to be pretty stout, and set firmly in the ground, or they may be blown down by strong winds. More slender poles may be used if placed in a triangular form, about three feet from each other at the base, and the ends brought together at the

[Image of page 93]

top. Tie them together there with strong tarred cord, or with stout copper wire. They will, in this form, stand the strong gales much better than when planted singly. The tree fern makes the best poles for this purpose. Should you adopt the triangular pillar, you may either plant three roses of the same variety, or have three different kinds--planting one at the foot of each pole. This being a matter of taste, we may leave the choice to the cultivator. Train the roses from pole to pole, so as to completely hide them when in full foliage and flower; and they will then form a beautiful tall pyramid of flowers. Previous to planting the roses, make the soil very rich, as you require these roses to grow quickly in order to flower freely, and cover the pillars as soon as possible. Pillar roses should receive a kind of temporary pruning about the end of May. At that time shorten-in the long straggling branches only. At the end of August prune-in the side shoots to three or four eyes, and tie in the leading ones to nearly their full length. Take away all strong coarse shoots--those robbers of the strength which ought to be husbanded to nourish the flower-bearing branches.

Dahlias, when placed in masses, and the colours tastefully blended, really light up the garden. A bed of crimson and primrose-coloured dahlias has a splendid effect; the contrast, though strong, is very agreeable to the eye, and almost dazzles as we gaze. The dark, nearly black, maroon flowers contrast well with some of the paler sorts--and the deeper the shades, the more velvet-like the bloom. The single dahlias, particularly the scarlet, are very elegant; but there is such richness in the double flower, such exquisite precision in the finely-fluted petals, that it is impossible not to prefer them. Beautiful and wonderful is every flower that blows; but there is something extremely striking in the 'quilling' of the dahlia, and in the neatness and firmness of its form. All who possess a garden should cultivate this lovely flower.

The Pansies are such rich gay flowers, and bloom on so unweariedly, that no garden should be without them. The variety of colour in this lovely family is great, and the tints usually are strong and lively. They look best

[Image of page 94]

in single beds, where their showiness may be seen to the best advantage; and if some taste is exercised in mixing the colours, the effect is admirable. They prefer a cool moist situation, but should not be shaded.

Bouquets. --One of the most beautiful bouquets I ever saw was composed of a mass of scarlet geraniums interspersed with fairy white roses, and surrounded by half-blown double white camelias. A very pretty bouquet for mourning may be formed of white flowers surrounded by double violets. No bouquet is good without a rich green and a dead white. The flowers should be arranged in masses. For instance, gather myrtle for the green, scarlet geranium, a large tea-scented rose or two, a gardenia or italian jessamine (if not come-at-able, some common jessamine), some golden calceolaria, and a bunch of nemophylla insignis or blue salvia, and we have the three primitive colours at once, which cannot fail to to be pleasing to the eye, whether in painting, needlework, or the furniture of a room--in fact, in every artificial arrangement of colours. [The three primitive colours, from which all others may be composed, are red, blue, and yellow.] I have never been able to make a small nosegay look well where purples and lilacs were introduced, unless all reds and blues were excluded. In a large vase, of course the compound colours may be separated from the primitive, and look extremely well. [The compound colours, so far as flowers for bouquets are concerned, are orange, green, indigo, and violet.] The flowers I have named are selected because they are found in every garden. Crassula coccinella would be a splendid substitute for the geranium, dwarf magnolia for the rose, and blue achimines for the salvia. The plumbago larpentae is also a lovely flower for the purpose. A bouquet for the hand should be formed by winding a long string round the centre flower and successively round each as it is placed, which will bind them firmly together.

Advice to Ladies, by one of their own sex. --Let me recommend "my sisters" to spend much of their summer days in their garden. Let them use proper caution, but let them live as much as possible in the open air; it is in itself a medicine, and I can speak from long ex--

[Image of page 95]

perience that it strengthens, and hardens, and cures. It raises the spirits, diverts the mind often from things that are not in themselves delightful, and fills it with rational and pleasant thoughts.

PROPAGATION.

Dividing the Root. --This is one of the most simple methods of propagation. The root of the growing plant is partially uncovered, and one or more portions is removed; the root is then covered up, and the detached parts transplanted in soft earth prepared to receive them. Nine-tenths of herbaceous perennials may be treated in this way.

Suckers. --These are young shoots thrown up from the roots of the main plant, round which they cluster. They may be removed by taking up along with them a part of the root, as in the preceding method. They should be removed in the autumn or spring, and immediately planted out.

Layers. --Nothing is more easy than to propagate by causing the layers of some plants to take root. In the case of the carnation and pink, the young side shoots called grass are selected for layering. The shoots are stripped of their lower leaves, and the stem is cut half through by an oblique slit near the base; it is then fixed to the ground, with a hooked stick or peg, and is covered slightly with mould, giving a little moisture.

Pipings. --Take off the upper and young part of each shoot close below a joint, with a sharp knife, cutting each off at the third joint, or little knob; and then cut the top leaves down pretty short, and take off the lower and discoloured ones. When you plant the pipings, let the earth be light and sandy, and recently loosened; dibble no hole, but gently thrust each piping half way down into the soft earth, and fix it in the bed. Water them often if the weather is dry, but moderately, just to keep them moist, and shade them from the hot sun in the day.

Cuttings are strong shoots cut from the parent stem or branch, and set in the ground. The cuttings should be cut off slantingly and smoothly, and the soil requires to be dry or not two moist.

[Image of page 96]

MONTHLY FLOWER GARDEN CALENDAR.

JANUARY.

Take up bulbs as their foliage decays, and supply their places with annuals or other plants. Pipings of carnations, pinks, and picotees, may be put in, watered and shaded. Thin out weak branches of dahlias, and keep the plants neatly and securely tied. Bud roses; destroy weeds and insects whenever detected.

FEBRUARY.

The pansy may now be propagated by cuttings for early flowering next season. Select the young side shoots, in preference to the old hollow stems, place them in a sandy compost, and shade them from the hot sun. The same directions apply to verbenas. Hydrangeas may now be also struck. The tops of the strongest shoots that are not likely to flower this season will make the best cuttings. This is the best time for striking cuttings of the calceolaria, though they will root at any time. Seeds of calceolaria should now be sown; if deferred until spring, they do not flower that season. Petunias and pelargoniums (geranium) may also be struck. Collect flower seeds as they ripen.

MARCH.

All operations neglected last month should be attended to without delay. Polyanthus, and herbaceous plants generally, should be increased by dividing their roots. Put in cuttings of the various kinds of evergreen shrubs.

APRIL.

Chrysanthemums will now be in flower, and should be made secure to stakes, or the high winds will damage their beauty; watering them with weak liquid manure will cause them to flower finely. Sow annuals in poor soil--autumn sown are always the earliest, and frequently the handsomest; they will be ready for spring planting

[Image of page 97]

when the beds and borders are put into proper order. Cuttings of china roses, struck now, will make blooming plants early next season. This is the proper season to commence planting bulbs. Anemone, plant roots of, in drills two inches deep, the tubers five inches apart. Cut down all decaying flowers, and tie up the remainder.

MAY.

Every opportunity should be taken for planting flowering shrubs, such as roses, flowering currants, italian may, pyrus japonica, laurustinus, azalias, rhododendrons, hatrothamnus, clianthus puniceus, buddlea globosa, &c.; and prune those already established. Herbaceous plants should be put out without delay. Plant bulbs. Phloxes now readily increase by dividing the roots. Sow annuals. If any fresh arrangements are to be made in the flower beds, this is the season for doing it.

JUNE.

Take up dahlia roots, let them dry gradually, and when quite dry, store them away, fixing their labels securely to them. Should any bulbs remain unplanted, choose the first interval of open weather to get them in. All operations neglected last month should be attended to this.

JULY.

Continue to plant flowering shrubs. Plant out wallflowers, Brompton stocks, hollyhocks, sweet-williams, &c., and seeds of annual flowers may now be sown. Ranunculus roots plant, in drills about two inches deep, and five inches apart; choose the roots for having full prominent buds, in preference to size.

AUGUST.

Stir up the surface of the soil round all flowers, in order to promote the free growth and blooming of the plants, and prune and trim flowering shrubs. Sow annuals. Plant carnations, pinks, chrysanthemums, fuchsias, and other flowering plants, and endeavour to arrange them according to their colours. Chinese roses, and those of robust growth, should now be pruned; but strong-growing varieties should not be shortened much, except those shoots intended to produce wood for next season.

[Image of page 98]

SEPTEMBER.

Sow seeds of all kinds of annuals. Petunias may easily be propagated by cuttings during this and the next six months; the best cuttings are the young tops of rather weakly growing plants. Fuchsias, propagated by cuttings now, will make fine flowering plants by December. Propagate the pansy by cuttings for autumn flowering--young plants produce the largest and finest flowers. (See February.) As little delay as possible should be permitted in all planting operations now, as the vigour and strength of trees and shrubs will be materially checked, and their beauty injured, by being moved when vegetation is much advanced. Let everything be now done which has been left undone.

OCTOBER.

Dahlias planted now will throw up fine cuttings, which will freely root if planted in a warm and dry situation. The shoots should be taken off when about three inches long. It is unnecessary to strike cuttings if the roots can be divided into as many pieces, each containing an eye, as there are plants required--the buds should be allowed to shoot before they are divided. Place a stake at the side of each root when planted. Plant in a situation sheltered from high winds. Remove the weak flower stems from pinks, &c.

NOVEMBER.

Some of the quick growing annuals may yet be sown, such as clarkia, collinsia, gillia, Virginian stock, &c. As soon as the foliage of the ranunculus, anemone, hyacinth, tulip, and other bulbous roots turn yellow, they should be taken up, and their places supplied with annuals or other plants. Handle the anemone and ranunculus with care, for fear of breaking their claws. Roses may be budded towards the end of the month--if your collection is not good, lose no time in renewing them.

DECEMBER.

Keep dahlias neatly and securely tied up, and water if necessary. Clean all plants of decayed flowers, and keep the garden as neat and clean as possible. Bud roses.