1817 - Nicholas, J. L. Narrative of a Voyage to New Zealand [Vol.I] - CHAPTER IV

       
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  1817 - Nicholas, J. L. Narrative of a Voyage to New Zealand [Vol.I] - CHAPTER IV
 
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CHAPTER IV

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CHAP. IV.

Departure from the North Cape--Arrive at Doubtless Bay-- Duaterra's account of it--Dissuaded from landing there-- Proceed on our course--Arrive at the harbour of Wangeroa--Description of the coast--Reach the Cavalles-- Land upon one of the islands--Arrive at a village-- Description of the huts--An excursion into the interior of the island--Natural productions--Beautiful prospect-- Affecting interview of Korra-korra with his relations-- Arrival of a young chief--Return to the ship--Death of a New Zealander--Shunghi visits his territory--We anchor between the Cavalles and the main land -- Meeting between Duaterra and the chief of the tribe of Wangeroa --Reconciliation between them -- We go on shore -- Arrive at an encampment of warriors.

Having taken leave of our new visitors, who left us with evident symptoms of regret, and impressed with very favourable opinions of our intentions towards them, we stood out to sea, and directed our course to the Bay of Islands, from which we were not now many leagues distant.

I should have mentioned, that in one of the canoes that had visited us, was a woman who remained during the whole time lying prostrate on her face, nor did she once raise her head to look at a single individual, a circumstance which to me was quite un-

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accountable, as the women in this part of the world never hide their faces from sentiments of bashfulness or timidity. She might probably have been in trouble in consequence of the death of a relation, or some other cause, and expressed her sorrow in this manner; but whatever was the reason, I am fully convinced it was not modest reserve.

I was much pleased with an instance of grateful recollection on the part of Shunghi, to whom, while at Port Jackson, I made some occasional presents. Having brought off with him from the North Cape a handsome war-mat, he presented it to me the moment he got on board, and in so friendly a manner, that I was forcibly struck with the goodness of his heart, while I accepted with pleasure this testimony of his gratitude.

On Sunday December 18th, about seven o'clock in the morning, we entered Doubtless Bay, which lies about ten leagues to the south of the North Cape. The whole range of coast exhibits here an unconnected extent of picturesque scenery, which is truly admirable; and bears, in the opinion of Captain Hanson, who had an opportunity of seeing both places, a striking resemblance to

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Chart of New Zealand

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some of those stupendous views on the coast of Norway, which excite such powerful sensations in the mind of the contemplative traveller. Bays, harbours, and promontories come upon the eye in abrupt succession, while these bolder scenes of nature are pleasingly harmonized, by green hills that appear retiring from the view, and valleys winding off in the most romantic incurvities. The shelter for shipping is here very unsafe. In the bay that we entered was an island, named by the natives Norfolk Island, from the circumstance of Governor King having landed two New Zealanders on the adjoining main, who had been sojourning with him at the island properly so called. In the Appendix subjoined to the second volume, will be found an interesting document of the late Governor King, which, as it refers to this transaction, and throws some light on the character of these people, and the early intercourse that subsisted between them and the settlers of New South Wales, will be well worth the perusal of the reader.

I should here be guilty of a culpable omission, were I not to notice the generous endeavours of Governor King to improve the condition of these islanders. There

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never was a man, perhaps, with the exception of Mr. Marsden, who took a more lively interest in all their necessities, than this estimable character. A kind of veneration for the bay where he once had been himself, induced us to enter it, and Mr. Marsden could hardly suppress his emotions at the remembrance of a dear friend, whose society and friendship he had so long enjoyed.

Duaterra informed us that two large rivers discharged themselves into the head of the bay, which had their source at a considerable distance in the interior. He pointed to a hill about six leagues from the shore, and told us, that at the foot of it ran a stream of fresh water which came a great way off from a remote part of the island, and was navigable to a certain distance for small vessels. The banks of this stream he represented as beautifully diversified with natural embellishments. They were lined, he said, on both sides with trees of different species, and forests of pine were growing in the rear of them, while the stream dividing itself into two branches about twenty miles from the shore, formed the two rivers that discharged themselves into the bay. According to his account, the natives were

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regularly in the habit of coming down these rivers in the summer season, to fish upon the coast, and lay in their winter's stock of provisions. The country in the interior, he said, abounded with every thing, as the land was both fertile and excellent.

It was the intention of Mr. Marsden and myself to have landed here, and having taken Duaterra with us, to have gone overland to a place called Tippoonah, a distance of about fifty miles; but from this we were dissuaded by the suggestions of the Captain. He dreaded that the vessel might possibly be detained by contrary winds from getting round to the Bay of Islands, at the time he expected, and told us we should consequently suffer many privations, and be exposed perhaps in our excursion to some degree of risk, which he thought it better for us not to run, and particularly as this tour must retard our ulterior progress. We took his advice, and leaving this interesting part of the coast, the ship once more stood out to sea. As we were proceeding, however, the wind suddenly failed, and we were becalmed at a short distance from the bay; where, to our great mortification, we were obliged to remain till the following morning,

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Monday, December 19th, when a breeze springing up, we were enabled to advance.

About six o'clock we found ourselves directly in front of the harbour of Wangeroa, the scene of the fatal tragedy of the Boyd. This harbour, though small, is said to be very good; the entrance is narrow, but the interior is completely land-locked, so that vessels may ride there in perfect safety. The pencil of the artist would here find a matchless scope for the exercise of its powers; and a pen more capable than mine of doing justice to the sublime scenes which nature presents in this quarter, would not be ill-employed in pourtraying them. A Barry or a Radcliffe may inspire delight by the peculiar force of their respective delineations; but for me, I can only attempt those rude and desultory sketches, which, though ill-according with the original, may still give some faint idea of those nobler objects which every traveller is expected to notice. The coast in this part possesses more inviting attractions than I have any where else witnessed. Two ranges of high mountains running in a parallel direction with it, as far as the eye can reach, form a most interesting contrast with the numberless small hills which rise below them,

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and are always clothed with the freshest verdure; while a variety of little islands, detached from each other but mingling with the scene, guard, as it were, the openings of the different harbours, and seem to rest beneath the wild projections of the coast in peaceful security. I could dwell with pleasure on the countless beauties of this place, but the subject demands more time, and much greater abilities than I can bestow upon it.

Though I have observed with pleasure that ingratitude forms no part in the character of the New Zealanders, still I have frequently remarked among them, a discontented selfishness which appeared closely allied to that odious quality. Man, even though he may be perfect in the aggregate, what can never be expected, is still but too prone to unprincipled derelictions in his individual capacity; and if he is found so in civilized nations, where moral culture should have improved his heart, who can wonder at his errors, where religion or science never yet pointed out to him the path of rectitude?

I have been led into these remarks by the murmurs which Korra-korra and his brother Tui were making for the last few days, at the

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inadequacy of the presents which the latter had received, to compensate his services on board; as he assisted in working the ship. He besides complained, that neither Mr. Marsden, Mr. Hall, nor Mr. Kendall, had given him any thing; on which Mr. Hall remonstrated, and said, the trowsers he then wore had been presented to him by Mr. Marsden. But this made him appear quite indignant, and he cried out in scornful disgust, "No good, made of New Zealand flax, I want tokee." The other replied, he should have what he wanted on getting to the Bay of Islands, when several presents would be made; but he was not at all satisfied with this promise, as he said, they would be all given away before the ship arrived there; and urging again the services of his brother, shewed an extraordinary degree of impatient distrust.

Mr. Marsden, however, soon put both him and his brother into good humour again; for he distributed several presents among such of the New Zealanders as assisted in working the ship, and the chiefs, in addition to tokees and hoes which the others received, obtained also spades, axes, and pieces of red India print. In the distribution of these

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presents, he was particularly circumspect, and not the least jealousy was excited.

At ten A. M. we stood in for the small islands called the Cavalles, and anchored close to the largest of them in seven fathoms water. On this little spot, to which the natives give the name of Pannak, Mr. Marsden and myself, together with Mr. Kendall and the New Zealanders, immediately landed. It lies about five miles from the main land, and is extremely steep, rising almost perpendicularly from the water. After passing the stony beach on which we landed, we ascended the hill, and at the foot of it observed a small enclosure neatly fenced in with sticks and reeds; it appeared well cultivated, as the earth had been recently dug over, and was probably planted with potatoes. We encountered much difficulty before we could reach the summit of the hill, as, the ground being composed of a stiff heavy clay, and the path very slippery, it required no small degree of caution and patience to manage the ascent. Our New Zealand companions, finding their shoes a considerable impediment to their progress, instantly threw them off, and skipping up like so many goats, left us below to wonder at their agility, and follow them with

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a slower pace. At length, having accomplished this troublesome task, we gained the top of the hill, where we came to a little village consisting of fourteen huts. Our curiosity was at once excited to see the inmates, but none were to be found, as they had all fled to an adjacent wood, and left the huts quite deserted on our approach. The poor creatures were struck with terror at the idea that we were come to kill them, and forsook their miserable dwellings through the impulse of this groundless alarm.

The huts were constructed on a very simple plan, and had evidently a greater regard to room than to convenience; indeed nothing of the latter description was at all to be seen. They all appeared much of the same dimensions, and were generally about fourteen feet in length, and eight in breadth, but the height was never more than four. The buildings were composed of sticks and reeds interwoven with each other, but so very imperfectly, and with such little care to guard against the changes of the weather, that the appearance was extremely wretched. Windows were never thought of, and the hole which was intended for a door was so very low and narrow, that it required them to

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crawl on their hands and knees in order to squeeze themselves in and out through it.

Yet these miserable structures derived at the same time a peculiar degree of interest from the surrounding scenery; and a neat well-cultivated little garden attached to each of them, formed a kind of contrast to the hut itself, which was singularly picturesque. These gardens were planted with turnips, coomeras, or the sweet potatoe, and the common potatoe.

Within a short distance of the huts we happened to find one old man, who was the only person of all the inhabitants that our presence had not intimidated. He was sitting on the ground with Korra-korra, and betrayed not the least indications of fear as we approached him. Saluting him in the usual respectful manner, by applying our noses to his, he received us with much apparent kindness, and we made him a present of a few nails, which he seemed very happy to get. Mr. Kendall being quite fatigued from the exertion required in climbing up the hill, was not able to accompany Mr. Marsden and myself in an excursion into the interior of the island; so we were obliged to leave him

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behind, while we both set out together, attended by Korra-korra.

As we proceeded, we had frequently occasion to observe the great variety of vegetable productions which this island contained. But the plant which grew in greatest profusion, and met our eye in every direction, was the flax-plant, which flourished equally in the most exposed, as in the best sheltered situations. This plant, which is indigenous, the natives convert to a variety of purposes. It supplies them with excellent materials for clothing, cordage, and fishing-nets, and the preparation being simple, requires very little trouble. The plant itself generally grows from five to seven feet high, and bears a strong resemblance to our common flag, but the stem is much thicker, and the flowers less expanded and of a red colour: the leaves both in shape and size are exactly the same, no sort of difference being perceptible. The scientific botanist would here find an ample range for his excursive genius; but for myself, I freely confess my incapacity to explore and classify the various stores of the vegetable kingdom. We met with several shrubs with which we were totally unacquainted, and many that we discovered to be of the

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myrtle genus; besides one which, from the pithiness of its wood, and the conformation of its leaves, resembled very much the elder-tree. This bore a fruit hanging down in thick clusters of small berries, the juice of which afforded a delicious treat to the natives, who appeared to relish it exceedingly. They express it through their fingers, and I should suppose that the wine that might be made from it, would not be at all inferior to that which the elder-berry yields in our own country. We recognized several species of grass which are well known in Europe, and some that we observed in New South Wales.

The island, which we had now an opportunity of seeing in every part, consisted of three hills, and the highest commanded such a magnificent prospect, as I never in the whole course of my life beheld. Before us lay the main land of New Zealand, which stretching away to the right, presented a straight line of coast to a considerable extent, exhibiting a variety of beautiful bays and harbours, and surmounted in the back-ground with a range of hills, which displayed enclosures covered with the finest verdure, and forests glittering with variegated foliage.

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These hills rose with a gradual and gentle acclivity, which rendered them perfectly convenient for all the purposes of cultivation, and on their sides were many proofs of the industry of the natives. Beyond these, and running in a line with them, rose a picturesque range of mountains, whose tops appeared to come in contact with the clouds, while down their disruptured sides, torrents of water precipitated themselves with impatient rapidity. On the left hand also, the prospect was continued by a range of mountains, which followed the direction of the coast as far as Cape Brett, where the view was terminated; and where the southern entrance to the Bay of Islands opened itself amidst scenes, of which it were vain for me to attempt a portraiture. How should I venture to describe the countless interesting combinations which were here grouped together, or interspersed at irregular distances, to give a more powerful effect to their varied beauties! The swelling rocks which seemed to frown on the convulsions of the elements; the scattered islands; the broad expanse of ocean; the sublime diversities of the country itself; the singular prospect of an Indian village, and of

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the natives paddling to the ship in their canoes; formed altogether such an extraordinary assemblage of views, as it would be impossible for the most vivid imagination to conceive, or the most animated pencil to depict.

Probably I have not consulted the good taste of my reader, in dwelling so long on these scenes; but it is difficult for the votary of unaffected Nature to withhold his admiration, when she presents herself in all the simplicity of innocence, and all the imposing grandeur of dignified sublimity. From me, the tribute she receives is small; though at the same time, I could not forbear paying it.

But to return to my narrative. Korra-korra, who had gone on some distance before us, was on our coming up standing on the top of the hill in conversation with a native, who had his spear in his hand, and was perfectly naked. As we approached him, he shewed no symptoms of consternation or alarm, but remained quite composed on the same spot, and returned our salutation of touching noses and shaking hands with seeming good humour. He held no rank among his countrymen, but was one of the

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common men, or what they themselves call cookee, and appeared to be about forty, with a pleasing though grave countenance. While in conversation with this man, we discerned at a distance some women and children, to whom he cried out as loud as he could vociferate, to come up to us; but they hesitated to accept this invitation, and in all probability would have ultimately declined it, as they dreaded to approach us, had not Tui ran forward to assure them of safety. He and his companions had been left to cut grass, and their task being performed, they had now joined us. Tui having succeeded in removing their fears, they no longer hesitated to come up to us, and the group consisted of three young women and some children, headed by an old woman who appeared bent down to the ground with age and infirmity. They approached in slow and regular procession one after the other, with their faces inclined towards the ground, and each with an air of melancholy sadness. As they ascended the hill, and when they had nearly gained its summit, the old woman began repeating in a low and plaintive voice a number of words, which Tui informed us were prayers or invocations to a certain deity. Her ap-

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pearance was singularly grotesque, and might remind one in some degree of that prescient being 1 who demanded from Tarquin so extraordinary a price for her portentous volumes. Her head was encircled with a wreath of green leaves, which though an unseemly decoration for one of her years, would have been appropriate and becoming on any of her companions; she had twisted a green bough round her waist, and supporting herself upon a rod, which fancy might take for the wand of a sorceress, she moved on with solemn dejection, in a slow and measured pace.

When she had reached the top of the hill, she stopt for a few moments, still repeating her prayers and keeping her eyes fixed upon the ground. Mr. Marsden immediately went to her, and taking her by the hand, was anxious to inspire her with confidence by this mark of friendship; but she appeared not to take the least notice of him, and her attention was entirely fixed upon another object. This object was Korra-korra, whose aunt she happened to be, and having now recognized him, a most affecting scene took place. The chief, falling upon her neck and applying

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his nose to her's, continued in this posture for some minutes, each talking in a low and mournful voice; then disengaging from, each other, they gave vent to their feelings by weeping bitterly, and indulged those overpowering sensations, which in such minds are always produced by excess of joy. It was impossible to remain an unconcerned spectator; and though I mean not to proclaim to the world my own sensibility, I must say, at the same time, that I could not withhold the tear of feeling at this interview. Mr. Marsden also, I believe, yielded to the softness of human nature; and indeed it were no praise to the heart, that could on this occasion repel the gentle emotions of tender sympathy. The brave and hardy chief remained for about a quarter of an hour leaning upon his musket, with the big drops rolling down his manly cheeks, when one of the young women, a daughter of his aunt, approached him; and a similar scene immediately ensued between them. Though I knew him to be a man of extraordinary sensibility, I never thought it possible that his feelings were so acute as I now beheld them: he no longer appeared the same being, the vehemence of his soul was completely lost; and while he hung with en-

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dearing tenderness on the neck of his relation, his countenance displayed all the fine sympathies of unadulterated nature. As for the woman, she was so affected that the mat she wore was literally soaked through with her tears. Tui, who prided himself on being able to imitate our manners, and was anxious to copy our behaviour in every particular, told me that he would not cry, he would behave like an Englishman, and began to enter into conversation with me, evidently forcing his spirits the whole time. However, his fortitude was very soon subdued, for being joined by a young chief about his own age, and one of his best friends, he flew to his arms, and bursting into tears, indulged exactly the same emotions as the others.

Perhaps there is no part of the world where joy is more affectingly evinced than among these people; yet when they had gratified their feelings, they all resumed their usual cheerfulness, and the ladies very soon became particularly mirthful. They shewed none of that coy reserve which we at first imagined was the cause of their hesitating to approach us, but on the contrary, displayed an openness of behaviour, which at the same time never bordered on impropriety.

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Tui's friend, the young chief who had joined us, was a fine handsome fellow of an open and ingenuous countenance, and not tattooed. He was attended by seven or eight of his people, and had come over from the Main, where he resided and had some territory. He evinced a particular partiality for me, attaching himself to me entirely, and talking a great deal, but unfortunately I could comprehend but a very few words of what he said, not being sufficiently conversant with his language.

On returning to the village where we had left Mr. Kendall, we had the pleasure to find all the inhabitants come back to their huts, having in our absence assured themselves that our intentions were not hostile to them. They all now appeared cheerful and happy, and Mr. Kendall was surrounded by a group of women and children, who seemed much pleased with their strange visitor. Happy at the idea that these poor people had regained their confidence, and considered us rather as friends than enemies, we now left their village to return to the ship. On descending the hill, I was frequently indebted to the young chief for his obliging assiduities; wherever there was the least difficulty, he was

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sure to lend me his prompt assistance, and never could the most polite beau be more attentive to a lady, than he was to me on this occasion. When we got to the shore, he was anxious to amuse me with his war evolutions, and brandishing his spear about him at a furious rate, went through a variety of manoeuvres, all of which were manly and intrepid. As he expressed a particular wish to go on board, we were resolved not to thwart his inclination, while allowing him to accompany us, he appeared quite delighted at the indulgence. The natives came down to the beach to assist our people in getting the boat into the water, and behaved throughout in so cheerful and friendly a manner, that at our departure we were impressed with very favourable sentiments of the goodness of their dispositions.

On getting to the ship, we found that in our absence two canoes had been along-side, and carried on a very fair and equitable traffic with those on board; one of them had brought a chief who had the command of a district on the Main, and who remained on board after the departure of his countrymen. He met us with a countenance full of good humour, and we made him a

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few presents, which he received with evident satisfaction.

I regret to state, that on this day one of the New Zealanders who had been to Port Jackson, an obliging friendly poor fellow, fell a victim to the dysentery. This disease, the one that is most prevalent in the colony of New South Wales, and makes the greatest havoc, carried him off in spite of every thing that could be done, after lingering under it during almost the whole of the voyage. He was attacked immediately after we left Port Jackson, and the complaint became so obstinate that it would yield to no remedy, though nothing that could possibly mitigate or remove it was left untried. Having expired during our absence from the ship, Duaterra got the body upon deck, and pressing the knees close to the head, he tied it up in the kackahow, or outside mat of the deceased; then taking it on shore, he dug a hole in the sand and buried it. This poor man had been taken by Mr. Marsden some time before out of the Cumberland, a colonial vessel, then lying in the Bay of Islands, on her return from a voyage to the Tonga Islands.

While we lay off the Cavalles, Shunghi,

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who described the land on the opposite main as belonging to himself and his brother Kangeroa, went to pay it a visit, and after remaining some time on shore, returned in a canoe, which we took on board for him.

The wind being contrary to our getting round to the Bay of Islands, we were obliged to put in between the Cavalles and the main land, where, having found the soundings very regular, we anchored on Tuesday, December 20th, in seven fathoms water on a fine sandy clay.

We were informed by Duaterra, who had been on shore, that the chiefs George and Tippouie, with about a hundred of the warriors of Wangeroa, were encamped at a short distance from a village which presented itself on the opposite main; where they had been collected for the purpose of attending the funeral of a deceased chief. On seeing George walking about by himself, he said, he advanced towards the spot where he was, to speak to him; but the other distrusting his intentions, ran away with all the speed he could possibly make: Duaterra, however, pursued him closely, and coming up with him at length, drew a pistol from his belt,

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and told him if he attempted to stir he would shoot him that very instant. He then informed him that it was his wish that a reconciliation should take place between them, and that all existing hostilities should cease, while they should pledge themselves to live for the future in peace and amity with each other. To convince George that he was sincere in this declaration, he made him acquainted, he told us, with the nature of the establishment which we were about to form, and with the many good things which Mr. Marsden had in view for the New Zealanders. He moreover invited him to come on board, telling him, Mr. Marsden would be very glad to see him, and would inform him of further particulars. On receiving these assurances, and not doubting their sincerity, George readily agreed to the proposed reconciliation, and expressed a very great desire to see Mr. Marsden; who, not waiting to receive his visit on board, resolved to go on shore for the purpose of seeing both him and the other chiefs.

As it was a measure of considerable importance to the missionaries to be on terms of

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friendship with the surrounding tribes, this opportunity of conciliating their good wishes and forming an alliance with them, appeared a favourable one, and not to be neglected. These tribes had frequently attacked Tippoonah, the place where the mission was to be settled, and had proved themselves so formidable in the assaults they had made, as to be a terror to the inhabitants; so that to secure their friendship, was not only expedient, but of the last necessity. But in addition to this, which was the principal motive, there was another also which induced us to go on shore at this place. We wished to learn, if possible, from the tribe of Wangeroa, that which had so cruelly cut off the Boyd, some details respecting that horrid catastrophe, and the motives that impelled them to it. Therefore Mr. Marsden and myself, accompanied by Mr. Kendall, Mr. Hall, and the chiefs Duaterra and, Shunghi, landed to pay them a visit. In our progress we thought it advisable to observe a great deal of caution, and directing Duaterra to go on before as our vanguard, we followed him at a convenient distance. After passing through a large

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village crowded with inhabitants, who gazed very earnestly on us as we went along, and after walking about half a mile, we came close to the encampment of these intrepid barbarians.

1   The Sibyl.

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