1817 - Nicholas, J. L. Narrative of a Voyage to New Zealand [Vol.I] - CHAPTER VIII

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CHAP. VIII.

Having in our visit to Tarra's district secured the friendship of that chief, a most important measure, our next object was to proceed up the Cowa-Cowa, to the part of the island where timber is found in the greatest abundance. It was therefore determined that Mr. Marsden and myself, together with Mr. Kendall and Mr. Hall, should set out without loss of time, in order to engage the natives to cut down as much timber as would be necessary for our purpose, and bring it by

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the usual conveyance to the vessel. We rowed to the head of the cove, which is about five miles from the place where the ship was lying at anchor, and is navigable to this distance for small vessels, and then came to some extensive flats, which though inundated with the tide, are always dry at low water, except the small channel through which the Cowa-Cowa discharges itself into the cove. We now entered the open river, and rowing up along its smooth surface for about ten miles, the scenery on either side was bold and attractive. On whatever part we turned our eyes, a rich and romantic prospect invited our attention, and the river, taking a serpentine course, offered to our view at every new turning, a delightful variety of picturesque images. The tide, which rises in this river about four feet, might render it navigable to some distance for small craft, were the fallen timber cleared away, with which its channel is occasionally obstructed; a work, I should think, of no great labour, though of obvious utility in the event of a more regular intercourse with the island. If the accounts given by the natives can be credited, this romantic stream might be sailed up almost to its source; but this I very much

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doubt, though timber comes down in rafts from remote parts of the interior.

The principal chief in this part was Tekokee, to whom the district belonged, though he was in some degree tributary to Tarra. Landing on the 27th, at a small village not dissimilar to that in which Tarra resided, we met with two young men, who readily undertook to conduct us to the chief; and after walking over some flat and marshy ground for about a mile, we ascended a hill, on the summit of which he was seated, with several of his people around him, who all behaved with much apparent respect. Like Tarra, he received us with manifest symptoms of pleasure and good-will, though his manner possessed not those engaging demonstrations of native politeness, which in that venerable chief were so clearly discernible. His demeanour, however, was firm and convincing, and his ingenuous countenance, the very index of sincerity, afforded the strongest proofs that nature had never intended it to reveal the subtle machinations of a designing heart. Nothing was to be seen in it that could in the least degree indicate either fraud or deceit, but the opposite qualities of honesty and candour were plainly legible to every

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beholder. In his person he was more robust than any man I had yet seen, and all his limbs displayed a perfect correctness of symmetry, evincing at the same time the greatest capability of laborious exertion. His broad shoulders were covered with a large skin of different coloured furs, and his tall figure, bold as it was stately, and perfect as it was commanding, might have supplied even to Phidias, had it existed in the days of that celebrated artist, a model not unworthy his inimitable powers. The chief, before we ap- prised him of the object of our visit, was already aware of it, having learned by some means that we wanted to buy timber of him; and addressing us on the subject, he told us there was nuee nuee racow, (plenty of wood,) and promised. very willingly to shew us where we could be supplied.

In the neighbourhood of his village were some large plantations of coomeras and potatoes, but these we had no curiosity to visit, having already seen enough of them to put us in possession of their mode of agriculture, which, in another part, I shall take an oppor- tunity of explaining to my readers. The adjacent land was generally level, and the

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soil, with the exception of the marshy parts, most excellent.

Being accompanied by Tekokee, we re-entered the boat, and proceeded about two miles further up the river, till we came to where it divided itself into two branches; when getting out to enjoy an excursion on foot, we walked along the banks through a thick grove, which lined it on that side as far as the eye could reach. The underwood was here in such quantities, and so entangled with the trees, that a passage through it would have been utterly impracticable, had not the natives taken the pains to clear a path, which ran along through various intricate windings. The timber in this grove was not large, nor could I observe any trees of the pine species, though there were several that appeared of an excellent quality, and many of them I thought would supply very good materials for turnery in particular.

Leaving this side of the river, we got into a canoe, and crossed over to the opposite bank, where we entered a noble forest of pines, growing to the height of eighty and a hundred feet, before they branched out, and all of them as straight as if they had been

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shaped by nature, for no other purpose than to shew her regularity. There were none of them more than six or seven feet in circumference, and being close to the river, could be floated down without any great trouble or expense.

We now engaged with Tekokee to set all his people to work at cutting down the trees, and giving him a large English axe, a present with which he was much gratified, we returned with him to his village, and thence repaired back again to the ship.

During this excursion, we were highly gratified with the friendly reception we met with from the natives, and with the general appearance of the country, which was every where remarkably beautiful. The land on the east side of the cove, rising in bold perpendi- cular eminences, connected with each other, and stretching along the whole extent in that quarter, forms as it were a natural wall, or rather a continued chain of fertile hills, producing on their sides a great deal of brushwood and small trees, with a rich covering of varied herbage. The prospect on the western side assumes a different appearance, but not less attractive; the land swelling up in curious hillocks, covered with shrubs and fern,

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or extending in level plains of the richest verdure, and offering to the eye some of the most delightful spots that can be imagined. It were impossible for me to give my readers any thing like an accurate idea of the countless beautiful views that are to be met with in this island; and the part of it where we had now been, was not surpassed by any other in grandeur and variety. A noble river, smooth and transparent, winding for some distance its intricate course through a forest both gloomy and majestic; hills forming themselves into grand amphitheatres, or ascending, with impervious steepness, to a considerable elevation; valleys sinking down in the most picturesque recesses, and green fields opening on the view at the skirts of the forest;--these scenes, and many more, which I shall not here endeavour to enumerate, present themselves on either side of the Cowa-cowa; and I question if even the Arno can offer any that are more sublime and captivating. How anxiously did I wish, while contemplating these enchanting views, for the moment to arrive when civilization and well-regulated industry would take place of barbarism, and rational ideas supplant the gross delusions of superstition! To this happy period I looked, as I still do, with

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impatient solicitude, feeling that so many of my fellow-creatures, who are now immersed in darkness, would then enjoy, as enlightened beings, those profuse bounties with which nature has supplied them.

We were exceedingly diverted on our return by the whimsical pranks of our new friend, Tippahee's nephew, who had accompanied us, and made himself extremely useful on the occasion. He assisted us in rowing the boat; but reflecting at intervals on the rank he held among his countrymen, which was that of a rungateeda, or gentleman, he would several times shake his head, and cry out against this indignity, by saying that he was "rungateeda, and that workee workee was no good for rungateeda, only for cookee cookee;" and then pretending he was not able to row any further, would apparently decline the labour: however, it was only to resume it with more spirit, and his objection was hardly uttered, when he plied on much harder than any of the rest.

On one of the highest hills, we observed a large cross similar to those which are so frequently met with in Catholic countries; and presenting rather an extraordinary ap- pearance in a nation of savages. Our young

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friend readily satisfied our curiosity with regard to it, by telling us that it was erected for the purpose of exposing on it the dead body of a thief, as it was customary in the island, on putting such an offender to death, to wrap up the body in the clothes of the deceased, which, being thus buried, was suffered to remain in the ground only a few days; when digging it up, they fixed it upon this cross, as a warning example to deter others from a similar offence. In this practice we find no superstition, and it is only singular for its similarity to one which prevails among ourselves, that of hanging up dead bodies on gibbets. It would seem, from this curious circumstance, that the ideas of these people, respecting moral duties, are more defined than is generally supposed; and that a crime, which in civilized countries incurs the just punishment of the laws, is here liable to as severe a penalty; though I should suppose it must be under more aggravated circumstances, from what Tippahee said of the convict at Port Jackson.

On returning from our excursion, we were much pleased to find, as a visitor before us, our friend Tarra, who, true to his promise, came to pay his respects to us in turn.

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He was accompanied by his young wife, Mrs. Goshore, whose fondling assiduities he preferred, at all times, to the less endearing attentions of his head spouse, who, being old and infirm as himself, could no longer secure that place in his heart which at a more early age she had obtained. Mrs. Goshore, notwithstanding all her irregularities, had the art of preserving the unabated affection of this old man; and studying upon all occasions the peculiarities of his humour, she was ardently beloved, and he never once imagined but the flame was mutual. His brother Tupee, the chief whom I have lately noticed in speaking of the two unfortunate convicts, had also come with him; and I was glad of the opportunity of seeing this man, from the accounts we received of him from the missionaries, who spoke very highly in his favour. Indeed, his treatment of the hapless wretches, who had confided themselves to his protection, might of itself create a good opinion respecting his disposition, while, at the same time, it shewed that his prudence was equal to his humanity.

During their visit, Tupee answered in the fullest extent all the expectations we had formed of him. He seemed particularly de-

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sirous to cultivate our friendship, without however derogating in the smallest degree from his own consequence, of which he appeared perfectly sensible: and his demeanour was marked with a firm independence, though upon all occasions easy and conciliating. None of the chiefs that I had yet seen, even Duaterra himself not excepted, carried with them such an air of command and authority; and his countenance displayed as much expressive intelligence as I ever beheld in the face of any man, either rude or civilized. He was as tall as the generality of his countrymen, and his person elegantly formed, with great muscular strength, yet graceful and dignified, nor were his regular features disfigured with the tattooing, but left undisguised to display the varied passions of nature, as they were called forth on each particular occasion.

As we beheld the sides of the different coves, lined with trees of various descriptions, we were curious to examine them more closely; so on the following day, the 28th, Mr. Marsden and myself went on shore, taking with us Turreeogunnah, or Gunnah, as he was called by his countrymen for the sake of brevity, and the ship's carpenter.

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The rich variety of natural productions that here lay open to our view, would have been a source of infinite delight to a person of more scientific attainments than myself, who, being extremely limited in botanical knowledge, could feel comparatively but little pleasure in looking at trees and shrubs, with whose classes and genera I was not acquainted. I shall notice, however, some of the few which I was enabled to distinguish. The first tree that fell under my observation was one that appeared to be a species of the banskia of New Holland, called by the colonists there the red honey-suckle, but of a much larger size than any I had seen in that country. Its wood was very similar to that of our beech, and might serve equally as well for all the purposes to which beech is applied. The mangrove is found in the low and marshy shores in great abundance, and is likewise considerably larger than in New South Wales. But I must not here omit one of the finest trees that we met with, though I am entirely unacquainted with its name and classification. It grows in common upon the sides of the coves, and extending its immense arms, covered with thick foliage, occupies a considerable space, and forms an admirable

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shelter against the rays of the sun. It bears a fruit which the natives are very partial to, and which, when green, has an exact resemblance to an olive; when ripe, it turns yellow, but to our palates its taste was by no means pleasant. A kernel which it contains they prepare for eating in the same manner as they do their potatoes, and it is an unctuous consistence extremely ill-flavoured to an European. The leaves of this tree are of a dark green, being somewhat like those of the orange-tree in shape and colour. On the sides of the coves we also found another fruit tree, which the natives prize very highly. The fruit it produces is shaped like a cone, with a hot and spicy taste, rather pleasant than otherwise. The fern-tree, that ornament to the forest in these regions, was to be seen in many places growing with great luxuriance. The supplejack, a species of the cane, was very common; and as it intertwines itself with the trees, it offers considerable annoyance to people passing through them, by impeding their progress. This plant is very elastic, as may be inferred from its name, which is extremely appropriate. On the hills we saw some of the myrtle species, but the tea-plant, so common in Otaheite, and said to grow here,

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and from which the natives of that island extract a spirituous liquor, we could not meet with in the progress of our excursion.

Of those trees which were generally to be met with, the pine was by far the most beautiful, and in height exceeded all the others beyond any degree of comparison. We observed two species of it, but the mountain-pine, called by the natives cowrie, which we found growing upon the sides and summits of the hills, and rising to an enormous size, was the most remarkable. Its bark is smooth, the leaves small and narrow, and it exudes an immense quantity of resin. Of this tree, which supplies most excellent timber, the natives make their canoes; and the wood, from its solidity and firmness, is extremely valuable for building. Another species of the pine, but much inferior to the one I have described, and the same that Captain Cook mentions as bearing a berry with a leaf like that of the yew, presented itself in great abundance upon the banks which bordered the sides of the cove, but its size was inconsiderable, and its wood knotty, and only fit for carpenter's work, such as window-frames, mouldings, &c. This tree is also found in Oyster Bay in Van Dieman's Land, where

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it grows to the same height as it does here.

In the course of our survey, we met with very few flowers, and those that we happened to see, had nothing to recommend them, being neither beautiful nor fragrant. The profusion however of trees and shrubs, made ample amends for this deficiency, and shewed by their vivid colours and flourishing appearance, the superiority of this climate over that of New South Wales, where at the same season of the year, (the middle of summer,) vegetation is completely parched up, and the whole country presents one frightful scene of cheerless sterility.

On Thursday, December 29th, we made an excursion in a contrary direction, and went to visit a chief named Warrakee, who was said to be a personage of some consequence in that part of the island; possessing a large tract of land contiguous to the Bay, and having a great many people under his controul. While proceeding to this place, we saw some of the natives hauling to the shore an immense net, containing a quantity of snappers and other fish, which they readily agreed to exchange with us for a few nails, and seemed very happy that we should purchase.

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These people are very industrious in attending to their fisheries, which are here numerous and well supplied; the coves in particular have a great abundance, and the right of fishing in certain places is recognized among them, and the limits marked out by stakes driven into the water. We observed several rows of these stakes belonging to the different tribes, each having respectively their prescribed boundaries, beyond which they durst not venture to trespass, without incurring the resentment of all the others, who would instantly punish them for any violation of the general compact. Their nets are much larger than any that are made use of in Europe: they make them of the flax in its undressed state, and one of them very often gives employment to a whole village. The coves and harbours abound in fish, which they are very careful in laying up for their winter store, by cutting it open from the head to the tail, taking out the back-bone, and exposing it in the sun to dry.

We landed not far from the village which was the capital of Warrakee's district, but this chief was not at home to receive us, having gone some days before into the interior. We found here one of our sailors

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who was named after Warrakee, to whose tribe he belonged, and had come before us to visit his relations. This man was surrounded by a crowd of the natives, who all claimed kindred with him; but as our appearance presented greater novelty, we soon found ourselves encompassed by the whole assemblage. Their behaviour, however, was not troublesome or obtrusive, and they cheerfully assisted us in making a fire and dressing our fish, which my friend, as well as myself, relished with a good appetite. Their mode of cooking it was extremely simple. 1 After cleaning the fish very carefully, they thrust a stick through it, which being stuck in the

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ground near the fire, sustained it till one side was roasted, when, the stick being drawn up, and the other side applied in the same manner till it was sufficiently done, the whole process was finished.

Having taken our refreshment, we walked over a large extent of level ground directly opposite the entrance of the harbour, and offering one of the most inviting situations of any that we had yet seen for building a town upon; and will, I doubt not, should the mission succeed, be eventually its principal settlement. The missionaries evinced a strong desire to fix themselves here in preference to Rangehoo, where the ground being so hilly and steep, the extent of their agricultural labours must necessarily be circumscribed, and confined to a few interjacent spots. But Mr. Marsden was averse to this measure; judging very properly, that they should rather consult their sphere of usefulness to others, than that circle which would be most advantageous to themselves. Besides, he thought it better, even from prudential motives, that they should be established in the midst of an extensive population so devotedly attached to them, than insulated among a few tribes, whose good faith was not proved,

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and whose friendship might be doubtful. Duaterra, who was of course much better acquainted with the disposition of his countrymen than we could be, agreed in this opinion; and I believe without any motive of self-interest, as he appeared always most anxious for the success of the undertaking. He said, that if they trusted themselves unprotected in this part of the island, the natives, incited by the cupidity of plunder, would very soon strip them of all they possessed, and might probably murder them, as their fidelity was not to be depended upon, when there was booty enough to offer a temptation to their avarice. They were always ready, he remarked, to take advantage of circumstances; "for," said he, "New Zealand man is no fool;" and were never to be trusted beyond the power of controuling them. Such was the character he gave of the tribes in this quarter; and it had the effect of perfectly reconciling the missionaries to the more secure and friendly district of Rangehoo.

On our return to the village, we met with the son and daughter-in-law of Warrakee, Tittoohee and Wranghee, a remarkably handsome couple, who seemed very affectionate

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together. As we were walking along the beach, we were followed by a pretty-looking young woman, who complained to us in a strain of artless simplicity, and with a piteous tone of voice, that she had neither husband nor child, and that no man would have her, though she wished of all things to get married. It is thought no impropriety in this country for the lady to make the first advances, or even to grant favours before the marriage ceremony takes place; being, while single, considered exempt from all those restraints which delicacy imposes in civilized nations; but after marriage no privilege of this kind is allowed, as has been already shewn in the preceding part of this narrative.

Disappointed in not meeting with the chief for whom our visit was intended, we rowed to the head of the cove, where Gunnah told us there was a large waterfall. The place he mentioned was not far from the level ground, and we found there such a powerful fall of water as would, in the event of the natives being civilized, be capable of working the largest machinery, and which thus might be made exceedingly valuable. In approaching the head of the cove, we discovered

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a natural wall, about a hundred feet long and sixteen feet deep, over which flowed a river that came from some distance in the interior, and discharged itself into the bay. This river, from its appearance, was never flooded; its stream being neither deep nor rapid, but flowing gently along in a smooth and regular manner. But as there was, nevertheless, a great body of water in consequence of its breadth, which, on pacing it at a little distance from its mouth, I found to be one hundred and forty feet, the channel might be narrowed and the current thus regulated according to the power required. A fall of water like this, so admirably adapted for various purposes, such as mills for grinding corn or sawing timber, would, at Port Jackson, be a certain fortune to its possessor. When the tide is at its height, there is a depth of water from six to seven feet, that rises close up to the wall, sufficient for large craft to come along-side.

Though missing one chief, we found another before us on our return to the ship. This man, whose district lay at some distance off, was the person who had supplied the vessel, when she was here before, with nearly all the timber she brought back, and was well known

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to the missionaries. They described him as very artful and covetous, but one who at the same time might be extremely useful. He appeared quite the man of business, all his ideas being completely absorbed in plans of procuring tokees and axes. A short time before we met with him, he had changed his name, 2 calling himself Pomaree, merely because he heard that was the name of the great king of Otaheite. This chief offered to supply us with all the timber we should want, and was very anxious to be exclusively employed on the occasion.

Next morning, the 30th, at an early hour, we had a canoe along-side with some large pigs for sale, brought by one of the petty chiefs; but as Mr. Marsden had by this time distributed all his tokees and axes in presents, he had none left for traffic: and the chief returned to the shore much dissatisfied and chagrined. This circumstance would not

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be worth adverting to, were it not connected with one which is in some degree illustrative of the character of these people, and shews their propensity to avail themselves of any expression on which they can exercise their wit, or in other words, their fondness for punning.

After the chief had left us, we took the boat in order to explore some of the numerous coves that are to be met with in this extensive harbour; and rowing up one of them, we discovered some neat looking huts built close to the shore, surrounded by plantations and a beautiful grove of large umbrageous trees. Struck with the appearance of the scene, we immediately landed to enjoy a nearer view of it; and were not a little surprised at finding, that the village and environs which we so much admired, belonged to the chief who had been with us a short time previous to our leaving the vessel, and who was now before us in the midst of his people. His ill-humour at not meeting with a market for his pigs, had vanished by this time, and he appeared to have recovered his usual good temper; giving us a cordial reception, and not seeming to think of his disappointment. Offering to accompany us

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to Wycaddee, a large village at some distance in the interior, we readily consented to the proposed excursion; and getting into our boat himself, he was followed by thirty-three of his people in six canoes. The New Zealanders have a custom, while paddling their canoes, to cheer and animate each other to exertion at stated intervals, by shouting out simultaneously the words, Toheehah heeohah, etokee etokee; and they regulate the movement of their paddles with regard to the depth of water in which they are to put them, and the rate the canoe is to proceed at, whether fast or slow, by each of these words. All this is done with such methodical exactness, and such wonderful unison of the paddles, that it would be supposed there was but one soul to give impulse to the entire of them. I often used to amuse myself with calling out these inspiring words, particularly whenever I saw them slack in their exertions; and as I was this morning repeating the words etokee etokee, the chief, in allusion to our having no tokees to purchase his pigs with, cried out after me, "no tokee, no tokee, no porkee, no porkee," laughing heartily at his own wit; while my friend and I gave him credit for being an excellent punster.

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The children of the natives displayed before us a specimen of their ingenuity as we rowed along the cove, in a curious imitation of our ship, the Active, made in wicker-work. They had fitted up their little bark as nearly after the plan of the model as possible; she had a bowsprit and two masts, with ropes connected to them, while the builders, having now launched her into the water, were proving the success of their labours, and seemed quite happy at the result. This strong proof of the imitative genius of these people was the more pleasing to us, as being found in the children, who thereby gave us every reason to augur favourably of their future improvement; and the reflection was highly gratifying, that they might, as they grew up, copy with similar industry all those arts of civilized life, which the missionaries were to introduce among them. The germs, which were strong, we trusted, would soon begin to put forth, and advance progressively, till they developed themselves in a rich crop of intellectual acquirements.

Proceeding about eight miles up the cove, which was nearly twelve in length and not quite one mile in breadth, we came to some extensive plains, over which was a narrow

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and very shallow passage: here the entrance to the river Wytanghee opened itself, being navigable for boats only at high water. We went up this river about two miles, and found the land on both sides very marshy but level all the way. We landed at a short distance from a village called Wycaddee, which belonged to Wiveeah, a chief of considerable authority in this quarter, but subordinate to old Tarra. Desirous of an interview with this man, we inquired for him at his residence, but found him not at home; his relations, however, were obliging and friendly, and offering to shew us some large forests of excellent timber, we accompanied them to the place where they stood. As we left the village, we crossed over some plantations of coomeras and potatoes, which were neatly cultivated, and had stiles at convenient distances, with a regular path-way running through them, such as might be seen in a field in England. After surveying the first wood we came to, in which the pines, though very tall, were not so gross as those we had before seen, we crossed the river Wytanghee, the natives carrying us through the water on their backs, and came to a large flat of swampy ground, where, from the mire and water which rose

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above the ancles, a clean passage was impracticable. I still continued on the back of the person who brought me through the river, as he very obligingly offered to prolong his services, and carried me over with much good humour; laughing the whole way, and pretending occasionally, for the sake of amusement, to throw me into the swamp, of which, however, I was not in the least afraid; as I knew he only wanted to make himself merry, by indulging in a harmless frolic at the expense of my fears. Giving my fowling-piece in charge to another of the natives, I was now completely in their power, so that had they any disposition to prove treacherous, the opportunity could never have been more favourable, as I had no means of offering the least resistance. But these friendly souls had no idea of abusing the confidence I reposed in them, and I found them on this, as on every other occasion, both faithful and obliging.

Having reached the end of the marsh, we came to a small village surrounded, as most of them are, by plantations of coomeras. The inhabitants, many of whom had never till this moment laid their eyes upon a white man, thronged round us, with all those

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marks of eager curiosity, which I have detailed in another part of this work; and we were desirous to afford them every opportunity of surveying us from head to foot.

The principal forests mentioned by our conductors, lay at a short distance from this village, where the pines were of an amazing height, and the timber extremely valuable. The facility of floating down the trees was here very great, and the situation presented many advantages for a flourishing settlement.