1817 - Nicholas, J. L. Narrative of a Voyage to New Zealand [Vol.I] - CHAPTER XI

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CHAP. XI.

HAVING taken in a sufficient supply of timber to keep the workmen employed, and engaged Pomaree to bring some spars to Rangehoo, which we had purchased but could not take on board; we weighed anchor early on the morning of the 7th, and after five hours' sailing, arrived opposite the capital of Tippoonah. Duaterra, the moment he espied the vessel, had his colours hoisted

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upon his fort in compliment to us, and we immediately displayed ours in return.

On landing, we found that the natives had exerted themselves with indefatigable industry during our absence, having nearly completed a large building for the immediate reception of the missionaries and their families. The dimensions of this structure were sixty feet in length and fourteen in breadth. They had built the walls with strong posts fastened in the ground at short distances from each other, and interwoven with flags and rushes: along the top of the posts they had placed a rail, to which the rafters were fastened, and the roof was of a ridge-like form, and thatched with rushes. The interior of the building was divided by partitions into four apartments, one for each family. The smith and the labourers whom we had left on shore had also worked with great assiduity, the smith's forge being almost finished, and some progress made in burning charcoal. Every one capable of working, that could be spared from the ship, was now employed in proceeding with the buildings; and while this scene of active industry was going forward, I amused myself by walking occasionally into the town, and observing the

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domestic economy of the people. While passing through the adjacent fields, I saw some men and women busily engaged in digging up potatoes; and the instrument they used for the purpose was very rude and imperfect. This wretched substitute for a spade, was a pole about seven feet long, terminating in a sharp point, and having at the distance of three feet from the extremity, a piece of wood fastened at right angles as a rest for the foot. After the potatoes were dug up, they put them upon a stage elevated about eight or nine feet from the ground, and covered them over very carefully with fern. Some of the women in the town were employed in making mats and kackahows, and few of them appeared to be idle. I was much pleased with this disposition to industry, which, when directed to civilized pursuits, will very soon be productive of the greatest advantages. The inhabitants brought me thread and fishing lines to purchase, which they readily parted with for nails and other trifles. Among their curiosities were some specimens of carving, which were both grotesque and singular. But the most remarkable were some rude imitations of human heads, with the eyes inlaid with

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pearl shell; there were also several figures representing men and women in the most indecent postures. I observed at one of the huts a large piece of wrought-iron, technically termed a knee, taken from the Boyd; and as it could be of no possible use to the natives, and as the trouble of bringing it thither must have been very great, I should suppose their motive in removing it was to sell it to any of the ships that might enter the harbour. Outside another of the huts I witnessed a scene that amused me very much, though, at the same time it was calculated to excite my disgust. I found here two ladies at their toilet, besmearing each other's faces and hair with red ochre and shark's oil, and assisting each other alternately in heightening their embellishments. The shark's oil is considered by them a great beautifier of the complexion; but the greasy appearance it gave them, and the insupportable stench it emitted, destroyed at once all the effect of their regular features and expressive countenances, while I could not help regretting their utter perversion of taste. To the men here, however, this very perversion only makes them the more captivating; and the deeper they are bedaubed, and the more highly they are

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coloured, the greater the rapture and admiration they always inspire. But disgusting and loathsome as this practice is, it is at the same time innoxious, and certainly rational, compared with the custom of painting, so long in vogue among our own countrywomen; who do not hesitate to ruin their complexions and impair their health, by the pernicious use of white lead and other deleterious cosmetics. How long shall the meretricious absurdities of fashion, thus continue to offer violence to the engaging simplicity of nature! In the afternoon Mr. Marsden and myself paid a visit to the queen, who told us that Duaterra had not yet returned from his farm. Her majesty was attended by three of her maids of honour, if they may be so called, who amused us with singing and dancing; and being very handsome, with neither oil nor red ochre about them, they formed a most agreeable contrast to the two ladies we had recently seen. Duaterra's aunt diverted us very much by her continual sallies of good humour, laughing and talking with great vivacity the whole time, as indeed did most of the others; for these people, as I have already observed, are habitually cheerful and facetious. They made Mr. Marsden

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a present of a ball called a poe, with which the ladies amuse themselves by throwing it repeatedly backward and forward; it is somewhat larger than a cricket-ball, and made of their cloth or canvas, stuffed with the down of the bull-rush, having a long string appended to it, which they seize with the fore-finger while the ball is in motion, and are very dexterous in this practice. However puerile this amusement may seem, it is not more so than many that we find very common among the grown people in England.

On the morning of the 8th, which was Sunday, we were visited by Kangeroa, the brother of Shunghi, and the areekee of this part of the Bay of Islands. Duaterra, though a powerful chief, was subject in some degree to his authority, and received him with distinguished respect. Kangeroa was a middle-aged man, very well proportioned, but inclined to corpulency; mild in his manners, and easy in his deportment. Shunghi, who accompanied his brother, brought his daughter with him, a fine girl about eleven years of age, whom he presented in joke to Mr. Marsden as a wife for his son Charles, requesting his consent to the match, as the

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age of the parties was nearly equal. Mr. Marsden, seeming to accept the proposal, told the chief that he had no objection to the alliance, bau only on condition that Miss Shunghi should reside at Port Jackson, at which her father shook his head, and would fain have the converse of the proposition, viz. that Charles should come and fix his abode with him in New Zealand.

The missionaries with their families and all the ship's company going on shore, Mr. Marsden performed divine service in the new building, where the chiefs and many of the natives attended, and behaved with the greatest propriety. The ground being damp, they shewed their considerate attention by spreading their mats and kackahows for us to put our feet upon, and were in other respects particularly obliging. Duaterra, who had by this time returned from his farm, told us he was nuee nuee careedee (very angry) with his wife, whom he could not prevail upon to attend, dressed in her English clothes; in consequence of her being laughed at and turned into ridicule by her countrywomen whenever she appeared in them. In the afternoon we went up to the fort, when he used all the persuasions of which he was

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capable, to induce her to put them on, but it was to no purpose; she persisted in her resolution of never attain subjecting herself to the jeering scoffs of the other women, and wearing her native garb, which was much more in unison with her character as well as becoming to such a figure as her's, she proved equally her taste and good sense. I could not perceive any of the people at work on this day, and I believe it arose from a regulation established by Duaterra, prohibiting manual labour on the Sabbath. In compliment of the day, he had his flag hoisted at the fort so soon as the morning appeared.

The following day, January 9th, Warree, the man whom Duaterra had punished for seducing one of his wives, was missing from the ship; having made his escape during the preceding, night. We took him on board the vessel when we sailed to the Cowa-cowa, and treated him exactly in the same manner as the rest; but whether he had become disgusted with regular employment, or was apprehensive that Duaterra was not satisfied with the punishment he had taken, and might still meditate some further infliction, I could not discover; however, he contrived in the middle of the night to have a canoe

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brought along-side, in which he got clear off. Duaterra declared that if ever he caught him again, he would certainly put him to death. Shunghi, who had for a long time previously requested us to visit his residence in the interior, came now in a very handsome war-canoe, tastefully ornamented with rich carving at the head and stern, to take us with him. This canoe was by much the largest of any I had yet been in, measuring sixty feet in length, by four feet six inches in breadth; and at about the distance of a foot from the bottom, was fixed some wickerwork, which running along the whole length of the canoe, served for an easy and commodious seat. Our party, besides my friend and myself, consisted of Shunghi, Tenana, Widoua, a son of Kangeroa, and fourteen able young men to paddle the canoe: Duaterra and his head wife, who were going to their farm, accompanied us part of the way, and we all proceeded in high spirits. The chiefs assisted in paddling, as did also the queen of Tippoonah, who, laying her child at the bottom of the canoe, exerted herself with as much activity as the men, and shared their labours with equal perseverance. Our movement through the

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water was extremely rapid, the rowers being all expert and vigorous; the morning was beautiful, and every one in the canoe evinced the greatest pleasure on the occasion, talking and laughing in the most lively manner. Our course lay nearly due west, and we passed the little island where the present inhabitants of Rangehoo used to reside in peaceful happiness under their chief Tippahee, before the destructive attack made upon them by the crews of the whalers obliged them to abandon it. We saw the ruins of the huts, and Duaterra related to us the particulars of that lamentable transaction. The natives, as soon as the attack commenced, endeavoured to save themselves by flight, and ran off in every direction; some who plunged themselves into the water, were fortunate enough to escape by swimming to the opposite land, and among these were Tippahee and Gunnah, both of, whom had been previously wounded. But all those who were surprised in the village, fell together in one indiscriminate massacre; and the scene of carnage was quite as terrible as that which it professed to revenge. It will be regretted by every feeling heart, that these inoffensive creatures, who had uniformly conducted themselves towards

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our shipping with the greatest good faith and the most friendly treatment, were nearly all annihilated; while the guilty savages at Wangeroa have to this moment gone unpunished. Far be it from me to speak in the spirit of retaliating vengeance, or to advise now any retributive measures towards George and his tribe; but had our countrymen punished them at the time as they deserved, in place of carrying slaughter and desolation into Tippahee's little island, it would have served two good purposes: the blood which they had so cruelly shed would have been avenged on the perpetrators; and what was of more consequence than all, as it would be the means of preventing future enormities, our name would have been rendered formidable throughout the whole country. The innocent, however, have been the victims; and poor Tippahee, whose disposition was incapable of the cruelty imputed to him, was obliged to witness the destruction of his tribe, while he fled himself to avoid their destiny.

At a short distance beyond this island we passed a very extensive cove, running to the north-east, where our whalers generally anchor, and which affords a secure harbour

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to any number of shipping, however considerable. The sides of this cove were formed by hills so very steep, that they appeared like natural walls running along the shore; and on their summits were built some detached hippahs, that seemed almost inaccessible. After paddling very hard for more than three hours, we reached the head of the cove, into which a small river discharged itself; and the canoe being drawn on shore, Duaterra and his wife got into another canoe that was in attendance, and proceeded to the place of their destination. The spot where we landed was a small plantation of potatoes belonging to Shunghi, and here our party intended to prepare their refreshments; seating themselves along the ground for the purpose. Fire, however, was wanting, and to procure it, Shunghi took my fowling-piece, and stopping up the touch-hole, he put a small piece of linen into the pan, and endeavoured to excite a spark. But this expedient proved unsuccessful, as the lock had got rusted and would not go off; he then got some dry grass and a piece of rotten wood, and turning a small stick rapidly between his hands in the same manner as we mill chocolate, the friction caused the touch-

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wood, in which the point of the stick was inserted, to take fire; white wrapping it up in the dry grass and shaking it backward and forward, he very soon produced a flame, which he communicated to some dry sticks and other fuel that our party had collected. The cooks now set to work, and were all as busy as possible; some paring potatoes with the shell of the muscle, and others preparing the oven for dressing them. The process they made use of on this occasion was similar to that I have adverted to in the note which I have added from Mr. Savage's account of this island. They dug a circular hole in the ground, and placing some stones at the bottom, they made a fire upon them, and on the upper part they put another covering of stones; thus confining the heat till the furnace was fit for the intended purpose. As soon as it was ready, they took out the stones which were heated through, and clearing the hole from the embers, they placed some of the hot stones at the bottom with some wet grass upon them, and on the grass they laid the potatoes, nicely scraped, while over them they put some more wet grass and hot stones; then covering over the whole with earth, the vapour

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was soon extracted from the grass, and the potatoes, in about ten minutes, were nicely dressed and fit for eating. Thus does necessity supply instruction to the untutored mind, while it makes even the wildest barbarians become, unconsciously, practical philosophers; and the power of steam, which of late is so well known in Europe, has been resorted to, most probably for ages past, in New Zealand.

The river that discharged itself into the cove, was called by the natives Tecaddie-caddie; it came from some distance in the interior, and its banks in many parts were lined with timber, which the natives float down the stream as occasion requires. A little way from its mouth was a fall that might, with no great trouble, be made strong enough to turn machinery. Our party having now had sufficient kiki, and they all being willing to proceed, we set off without more delay for Wyemattee, the residence of Shunghi and Kangeroa. We presented, as we went along, a very formidable appearance: Shunghi had got a pistol in his belt, and carried my gun, the lock of which I had now put in order; two of his people marched with loaded muskets, and all the rest were

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armed with spears; so that had any hostile tribe ventured to interrupt our progress by making an attack upon us, we were well prepared to have opposed them with effectual resistance. After we had passed two small hills, between which was a fine plantation of coomeras, we entered a beautiful champaign country, extending for several miles, and enriched with the various natural productions of the island. On our way, we perceived a small heap of stones by the side of the path, where our companions informed us a man was buried, and this spot being tabooed, we were not of course allowed to approach nearer. The prospect here, though not so bold and sublime as many that I witnessed in my previous excursions, was, however, remarkably agreeable. A large extent of level land, through which the Tecaddie-caddie pursued its devious course, presenting at once an object of beauty and convenience, was bounded by gentle eminences, covered in some places with fern, and in others surmounted with lofty forests of pine; the fine verdure of the fern giving every where a rich freshness to the scene, and assuming the appearance of the most

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luxuriant meadow ground. We found the quality of the soil in this place to vary considerably, and particularly between the head of the cove and a forest that we entered about six miles distant; some of it was dry and gravelly, some wet and swampy, but the greater part consisted of a fine black vegetable mould, producing on its surface the richest fern I ever beheld, and it appeared to me exceedingly well adapted for agriculture. The whole of this tract was well watered, for we passed not less than six small streams.

Before we reached the forest, our companions, who, like the rest of their countrymen, had stomachs that were perpetually craving, would rest themselves twice to have more kiki, and we knew very well from previous experience, that while they felt this voracious -desire for food, to urge them to proceed, would be perfectly useless. Soon after we entered the wood, they all halted together, and six of them danced and sung a composition in honour of Mr. Marsden, whose name they frequently repeated: this demonstration of their regard was very grateful to my friend, and I was much pleased myself with the sentiments it be-

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spoke. We experienced the same annoyance in our progress through this wood, as we did in the forest at Wycaddee, the underwood being equally troublesome, crossing and intersecting the path in every direction; besides, we had to get over a stream running in the middle of it, which was attended with some difficulty. The trees in this forest were not diversified in their species, consisting chiefly of two kinds, and some of them were the largest I had ever seen, or probably that are to be met with in any part of the known world. A species of pine, called by the natives totarra, excited our astonishment, from the bulk and height to which it grew. We measured some of the trees, and found them to be from thirty to three and thirty feet in circumference, growing to the height of one hundred feet and upwards before they branched out, and all perfectly straight. The quantity of solid timber that one of these trees must supply is immense. The totarra has a singular bark, which grows very thick, and is divided the whole way up by horizontal streaks separated from each other by a space of about two feet; its leaf is small and narrow, and I could perceive no traces of resin or turpentine oozing from it.

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Of the smaller trees of this species, the natives hollow out their canoes, which they build on the plan I have already described. The towha, another species of the pine, though not so large as the totarra, grew here at the same time to a considerable size, and the forest abounded with it. This tree has likewise a small and narrow leaf, but its bark is thin and quite smooth; it bears a berry which is eaten by the natives.

In the midst of the wood we overtook an old woman returning to her village, loaded with a basket of flax; the poor creature gazed on us with astonishment, this being, I should suppose, the first time of her life that ever she beheld a white man. She did not, however, enter into conversation with our party, nor ask any questions about the packaha; but after gazing on us for a few moments, passed on with wonder pictured in her countenance. Soon after we got out of the forest, we came to a village belonging to Tariar, a petty chief, whom we had seen on board the vessel. The situation of this village was extremely pleasant, being built upon the banks of the Wyetanghee, a fine river, and the same that forms the waterfall I have before noticed. Detached a little

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way from the village, there rose a lofty hill, covered with pines, and on the top of it was built the hippah belonging to the chief, to which, in time of hostilities, the inhabitants were accustomed to retire. Before we approached the village, Shunghi, to convince his countrymen that we were friends, fired off his pistol in the air, and immediately the women, whom we had long known as propitious heralds, answered the signal by shouts of haromai, haromai. Our conductor happened to meet here an old woman, who was either one of his friends or relations; and touching noses with her very affectionately, he wept over her for some moments, and felt, or seemed to feel, the strongest emotions of excessive joy. Tariar was absent, as were most of his people, on our arrival; but we met with one of his seven wives, (for he had actually that number,) and from her appearance, I should imagine that she was not the favourite of the seraglio. Our party, who could eat everlastingly, sat down again to indulge their insatiable appetites, while my friend and myself, who had tasted no food since we left the ship, prepared now to get ourselves some refreshment. Shunghi very opportunely shot a

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duck, which he presented to us, and being supplied with potatoes by the villagers, we had all we could desire for an excellent repast. Mr. Marsden and myself commenced our cooking operations with great alacrity; and having brought some tea and sugar with us from the vessel, with an iron pot to boil the water, we were enabled to regale ourselves with a beverage that was both grateful and exhilarating. While we were enjoying our repast, a chief with some of his followers from a neighbouring village, came up, and saluting our friends in a very cordial manner, seated themselves beside us; they talked with much gaiety, and endeavoured, as well as they could, to make themselves intelligible to us, while they observed all our motions with earnest attention. Taking leave of these friendly villagers, we crossed the Wyetanghee, the natives carrying us over on their backs; and entered an uneven, and in some places, a rugged and stony country. Proceeding to the distance of about four miles, we came to another forest, near the skirts of which were some extensive plantations of coomeras and potatoes, the property of Kangeroa: our friends shewed us these with a great deal of exulta-

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tion, and they might certainly well indulge a feeling of this sort; for their industry had brought into cultivation no less than from thirty to forty acres, and the extreme regularity that was observable in the whole process, did much credit to their taste for agriculture. The plants were all disposed in the most perfect order, and the weeds rooted out with minute exactness. As we advanced about half a mile through the forest, the ground began to rise gradually till we got out of it, and found ourselves near the summit of a lofty hill, where was built Wyemattee, the hippah of Kangeroa, and the place of our destination. Here we were now to behold quite a new scene, and one that gave us a higher idea of the ingenuity of these people, as well as of their resources, and their near approach to civilization, than any we had hitherto witnessed. This scene was the town of Wyemattee, which I shall immediately take occasion to describe, observing here, that the sight of it filled me with astonishment when I reflected on the character and description of its inhabitants. We arrived at this interesting place at so very late an hour that it was impossible for us to gratify our curiosity to view it before the next day; so after we had eaten some

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potatoes which Shunghi had got ready for us, we retired to rest, wrapping ourselves up in our great coats, and lying down upon some clean mats that our friendly host had spread for us himself in his hospitable dwelling. Satisfied of the good intentions and sincere friendship of this worthy chief, we felt no difficulty in resigning ourselves to sleep under his protection; and fatigued by the salutary exercise of the day, we sunk in a few moments into profound repose, which continued through the night without interruption.

The morning of the 10th of January was announced to our enraptured ears by the swelling notes of the woodland choristers, and never either before or since did I hear such delightful harmony. Rising together at an early hour, we fancied ourselves for the moment in some enchanted ground, while the forest seemed to ring with the mellow warblings of nature, and a thousand feathered songsters poured their soft throats in responsive melody. There was however one bird that was distinguished from all the rest, as well by the compass and variety of its notes, as by their incomparable sweetness. This bird, which has been brought to Port Jackson, and highly prized there, is called by the colonists

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the organ bird, and is, I believe, peculiar to New Zealand: the notes of the nightingale, however exquisite, are in my opinion much inferior to the song of this bird, and I never thought before that either the grove or forest could boast of such a vocal treasure. While we continued listening to this thrilling symphony, the sun, just emerged above the horizon, was gilding with its rays the tops of the hills, and gradually extending over the rich landscape, it shed its enlivening influence on every object around, while the joyful natives hailed its return as the signal for them to resume their customary pursuits. The surrounding country here had all that sublime scenery that we observed in other parts; the forests being noble and stately, the hills chequered and picturesque, and the distant mountains bold and lofty.

From the imperfect view we had of Wyemattee on the preceding evening, we were so much struck with its appearance, that we wished as soon as possible to examine it more closely, and we now, with eager curiosity, walked out for that purpose. The first objects that attracted our notice, as being the most prominent, were the fortifications; and these might well deserve the

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term, for they displayed in their construction a skill and ingenuity most surprising, for persons so totally ignorant of all principles of science. The fortifications we had hitherto seen round the towns we had visited, compared with these, evinced neither design nor execution, appearing only as the clumsy devices of wild barbarians, while by a parity of contrast, the others would seem finished specimens of civilized workmanship. A strong palisading of heavy posts placed quite close to each other, and rising above twenty feet in height, formed the first bulwark that encompassed the town; the entrance was by a postern five feet in height and two in breadth, on the outside of which were some carvings of human heads, cut out with all the semblance of stern vengeance, and seeming to grin defiance at the rude invaders. Within the palisading, and attached to it all round, was a strong back of wicker-work, which the inhabitants had constructed for the purpose of obstructing the lances of their enemies; but at convenient intervals they had made port-holes, through which they could keep up a fire of musketry upon the besiegers. At a short distance from this strong rampart, on the inner side, was a space

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of about thirty feet, where they had dug a moat, which being filled with water, defended that part of the hill that was most accessible to external assault; and behind this moat they had thrown up a steep mound, on which was constructed another line of palisades, of the same height and strength as the former. The moat, which was at least nine feet in breadth, defended an entrance formed by another postern; and between this and the last approach to the town, there was an intermediate space of eighty feet, at the extremity of which the hill was cut down perpendicularly about fifteen feet; and on its summit rose another row of palisading that encircled the hippah and completed the works.

Such was the fortress which these rude natives had the ingenuity to raise; and my readers, I am persuaded, will admit, that a people, who under circumstances so unfavourable, could prove themselves capable of such extraordinary labours, should not be suffered to remain neglected any longer, but should have their genius elicited in the various pursuits of culture and civilization.

Thus strongly fortified, the inhabitants, if well supplied with provisions, would be

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enabled to hold out against any attacks of their enemies, however violent; what they would have most to apprehend, would be the setting fire to the palisades; but even should this event happen, they could retire to the summit of the hill, where the advantage of situation would give them a decided superiority; and should the invaders gain that, they might still defend themselves, at least for some time, within the enclosures round the houses, each of which was encompassed by a strong barrier of stakes. Shunghi informed us that this place was attacked in the course of the summer before, by the tribe of Wangeroa, who made a most desperate assault on it, but that he and his people had succeeded in repelling them, after killing great numbers of them during the attack. On entering the town, we found it to extend over the whole summit of the hill; and the number of houses, including the stores for their coomeras and potatoes, were more than one hundred, the population being from two to three hundred souls. But we saw very few of the inhabitants, the greater part of them having gone down to the sea coast to procure their winter's stock of fish. In the centre of the town we were shewn the seat

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or throne of Kangeroa. It was curiously shaped, and raised upon a post about six feet from the ground, with some fanciful devices of grotesque carving. There was a step to it to assist him in getting up, and it served him also for a foot-stool. On this throne, the chief, elevated above his people, dispensed his laws and issued his commands, with as much authority as the most absolute potentate in Europe. Convenient to this seat was another, appropriated exclusively for the use of the Queen Dowager, Kangeroa's mother; and close to it a small box to hold her majesty's provisions.

The houses here were erected on a similar plan with those I have before described; but the inhabitants, to preserve their winter's supply of food, had built a good many storehouses, which were better constructed and much more commodious than their dwellings. I observed one particularly, that was as well built, both in point of comfort and convenience, as any of the huts in New South Wales, that serve as a residence for our people. It had a door spacious enough to admit a person through it without stooping; a plan, that I am surprised they neglect in their dwellings, where ingress is so difficult

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through the narrow apertures, that it is always a laborious task to attempt it. The roof of this store-house projected more than three feet from the walls, forming a viranda round the dwelling; and to admit a free circulation of air, they had made in it two large openings. The interior of this structure was also well planned, and partitioned into two convenient apartments. The door frame was a curious specimen of the progress of their attempts in carpenter's work; the top and bottom of the frame were mortised to the sides and pinned very firmly, and from the sides projected a strong ledge, through which they had cut two holes for the bolt that served as a fastening to the door. Round the house was paling, that stood about ten feet distant from it, and was formed like the rest of strong stakes. I observed near one of their dwellings a capacious vessel in the shape of a flat-bottomed boat; and in this was steeping the bark of a tree called enou, from which they extract a black colour that serves them to dye their flax with. This vessel was very neatly made, and on measuring it, I found it to be six feet long, eighteen inches in diameter, and twelve inches deep. Shunghi shewed us some immense spears

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made of a hard and close-grained wood of a dark colour; these measured no less than twenty-three feet in length, and were pointed with a piece of bone about nine inches long, nicely worked down, and fitted in at the extremity.

When we had satisfied our curiosity, by inspecting the fortifications and the town, we returned to the residence of our friend Shunghi; where having breakfasted in the English style, we set out immediately after to visit a lake of which we had heard a great deal from the natives. Passing through the western gate, we descended the hill, which was here nearly perpendicular, and striking into the forest that surrounded it on every side, we arrived after a walk of more than an hour at a fine open country, in extent about four square miles, and bounded by swelling hills covered with wood. The land was here extremely fertile, and coming to a village near the opposite confines of the tract, we discovered several luxuriant plantations, in which, besides potatoes and coomeras, there were also gourds, cabbages, turnips, and a little Indian corn. The chief, who was a young man, had a pleasing countenance, and appeared of a mild and gentle

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disposition. He readily offered to accompany us to the lake, from which we were now not quite two miles distant; and on our way we had to pass through another wood, part of which the natives had cut down, and were burning off, for the purpose of cultivation. They applied themselves to their work with sedulous industry; collecting the stones together in heaps, to be carried off, and cultivating with much care every spot as they cleared it. I observed one of these spots that was planted very neatly, and bespoke the great pains they had taken; it was however stony, though the soil in general was remarkably rich.

Arriving at the lake, which was called by the natives Morberree, we were exceedingly gratified with the scene before us, and found it such as might amply repay the toil of a longer excursion. This lake was formed by a fine sheet of water, extending about eight miles in length from east to west, and four in breadth from north to south. The level ground on the opposite side was clear of timber, but rising at a considerable distance, it presented large tracts skirted with pine, and the landscape bore a strong resemblance to some of those beautiful pleasure grounds

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in England, on which the owners bestow so much care and attention. Beyond these tracts, which were agreeably diversified by the striking irregularities of the scene, rose a chain of very high mountains, running from north to south, and covered with timber of a prodigious growth.

The natives informed us, that the lake abounded with fish, and shewed us two baskets of a circular form which they used for the purpose of catching them. These were made of the bark of a tree called manghee manghee, and were ingeniously contrived; the mouth of the basket narrowing like that of a mouse trap, so that when once the fish had made its way in, it could not possibly escape. It was, I thought, very similar to the basket used by the country people among us, for catching eels. Shunghi, getting into a canoe, succeeded in shooting a wild duck for us, and we saw several more flying about the lake: this fowl being here very plentiful, I wished to shoot as many as I could, and taking my gun, ventured on the lake in a small canoe; but it was so very badly made, and unsteady under me, that I was glad of the opportunity of getting safe out of it as soon as possible.

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Should an extensive settlement be ever formed in New Zealand by our people, and the Bay of Islands fixed upon as the principal harbour; the neighbourhood of this lake would form an admirable situation for the seat of government, and chief town of the colony. The extensive forests that line one side of it, would afford an immense quantity of timber, that might at a trifling expense be floated to the opposite bank, where, the ground being cleared to a considerable extent, the town might be built, and lands inclosed both for pasturage and husbandry. The soil here being luxuriant in the extreme, would produce the most abundant crops, and the labours of the industrious cultivator would be sure to be requited by a plentiful harvest. According to the natives, a river has its source in this lake, which after traversing the whole breadth of the island, takes a western course, and discharges its waters into the sea. Whether this is navigable or not, it was impossible for me to ascertain, not having an opportunity of seeing it; but as the natives asserted that canoes were constantly plying upon it, I should think it probable that boats at least, if not small vessels, might effect a passage upon it to

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some distance. A communication being thus kept up with the interior of the island, the advantages to the back settlements would be very considerable; as it would afford them at all times an easy conveyance for their produce to the principal market, while they might bring back in the same manner whatever necessaries they required. But besides this consideration, there are others which, in the event of the island being colonized, might recommend this place as the most suitable for erecting the town upon. Its convenient and central situation, the peculiar richness of its soil, the proximity of all the necessaries for building; these, and several other local advantages, would conspire to render it the most eligible spot that could be selected. I might also add, that the forests, while affording the most excellent timber for building, could easily be converted into well-cultivated fields and gardens; and the lake, yielding an abundant supply of fish, with water of the best quality, would be rendered doubly valuable to the inhabitants. The distance of this place from the harbour would form no material objection: this being only fifteen miles, a road might easily be constructed from the head of the cove, and over level

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ground the whole way, if we except three hills of such inconsiderable height as to offer no obstacle worth regarding. From the entrance of the harbour to the head of the cove, may be estimated at about twenty miles; and shipping can proceed up fifteen or sixteen miles, and find secure anchorage. The land carriage therefore would be very trifling; and the necessity of it might be ultimately superseded by a junction of the lake with the Tecaddie-caddie, which passes within five miles of it, and could be made navigable for small craft to the head of the cove. A settlement thus advantageously situated, and under a mild and equitable government, would very soon become flourishing, and enabled to supply itself in abundance, not only with the necessaries of life, but even with many of its luxuries. The advantages too resulting from such a colony to the natives themselves, must be obvious. A spirit of civilized industry would be diffused all over the country, and they would be gradually initiated into all our pursuits; while being protected in their persons and property by the wholesome laws of our inestimable constitution, they would have nothing to apprehend; and providing for

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their wants in conscious security, their physical comforts would always keep pace with their moral improvement. Should the event, which I can now only speak of as contingent, be ever realized, this consideration will not fail to have its proper weight with the political economist. But I would by no means have the colonists composed of such characters as form the European population of New South Wales. The convicts there are the most profligate and abandoned description of people in existence, and those crimes and vices for which they have been expatriated, adhere to them in their exile with pertinacious delinquency. Such men would rather defeat than promote the object in view, by introducing a factitious contamination of morals among the natives, and instructing them in the most depraved practices by their own example. No, the settlers that I should suggest, would be those honest and industrious artisans and labourers, who have never been guilty of any crimes to banish them from their country, though they might be willing to leave it for one where they could procure the means of living with more convenience and facility. The present is perhaps of all others the moment when

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many such could be found, and it will give me pleasure if these passing suggestions shall have attracted any notice to the subject, on which I shall take occasion to speak more at large in another place.