1817 - Nicholas, J. L. Narrative of a Voyage to New Zealand [Vol.I] - CHAPTER XIV

[Image of page 410]

CHAP. XIV.

AS Mr. Marsden's official duties at the colony required his return as soon as possible, he was apprehensive of prolonging his stay in this harbour, lest the ship might not have taken in her cargo before the time allowed by his limited leave of absence should expire; and for this reason he was anxious to get back without more delay to the Bay of Islands, not choosing by any means to trespass on the indulgence of the Governor. Accordingly, the ship getting under sail with a fine breeze from the south west, we left this interesting part of New Zealand, January 19th, at an early hour in

[Image of page 411]

the morning. It was not however without sensations of regret, at not being able to see more of the character and habits of the people in this quarter, as well as of the nature of the country itself, that I now took my departure from it; and as this place had particularly attracted the attention of Captain Cook, I felt the greater desire to be better acquainted with its internal situation. The following is his description of it, which, so far as I could ascertain, is perfectly correct, (excepting what relates to the security of the bay as a road for shipping,) and may here supply that information which, from the circumstance I have mentioned, it is not in my power to afford.

"Cape Colville, the southern entrance of the bay,) lies in latitude 36 deg. 26" S. Long. 194 deg. 27" W. It rises directly from the sea to a considerable height, and is remarkable for a lofty rock which rises to the pitch of the point, and may be distinguished at a very great distance. From the south point of this Cape, the river runs in a direct line S. by E. and is no where less than three leagues broad for the distance of fourteen leagues above the Cape, and there it is contracted to a narrow stream, but continues the same course

[Image of page 412]

through a low flat country, or broad valley, which lies parallel with the sea coast, and the end of which we could not see: on the east side of the broad part of this river the land is tolerably high and hilly; on the west side it is rather low, but the whole is covered with verdure and wood, and has the appearance of great fertility, though there were but a few small spots which had been cultivated. At the entrance of the narrow part of the river, the land is covered with mangroves and other shrubs; but farther there are immense woods of perhaps the finest timber in the world: in several places the wood extends to the very edge of the water, and where it is at a little distance, the intermediate space is marshy, like some parts of the banks of the river Thames in England: it is probable that the river contains plenty of fish, for we saw poles stuck up in many places to set nets for catching them, but of what kinds I do not know. The greatest depth of water that I found in this river was six-and-twenty fathom, which gradually decreased to one fathom and an half: in the mouth of the fresh-water stream it is from four to three fathom, but there are large flats and sand banks lying before it. A

[Image of page 413]

ship of moderate draught may, notwithstanding, go a long way up this river with a flowing tide, for it rises perpendicularly near ten feet, and at the full and change of the moon it is high water about nine o'clock. Six leagues within Cape Colville, under the eastern shore, are several small islands, which, together with the main, seem to form good harbours; and opposite to these islands, under the western shore, lie other islands, by which it is also probable that good harbours may be formed: but if there are no harbours about this river, there is good anchoring in every part of it where the depth of water is sufficient, for it is defended from the sea by a chain of islands of different extent, which lie cross the mouth of it, and which I have, for that reason, called Barrier Islands: they stretch N. W. and S. E. ten leagues. The south end of the chain lies N. E. between two and three leagues from Cape Colville; and the north end lies N. E. four leagues and an half from Point Rodney. Point Rodney lies W. N. W. nine leagues from Cape Colville, in latitude 36 deg. 15" S. Longitude 184 deg. 58" W. and is the N. W. extremity of the river Thames; for under that name I comprehend the deep bay, which terminates

[Image of page 414]

in the fresh-water stream, and the N. E. extremity is Cape Colville. "

The same navigator having gone up the fresh-water stream in his pinnace, describes his progress in the following manner:

"Into this river we entered with the first of the flood, and within three miles found the water perfectly fresh. Before we had proceeded one third of that distance, we found an Indian town, which was built upon a small bank of dry sand, but entirely surrounded by a deep mud, which possibly the inhabitants might consider as a defence. These people, as soon as they saw us, thronged to the banks, and invited us on shore. We accepted the invitation, and made them a visit notwithstanding the mud. They received us with open arms, having heard of us from our good old friend Toiava; but our stay could not be long, as we had other objects of curiosity in view. We proceeded up the river till near noon, when we were fourteen miles within its entrance, and then finding the face of the country to continue nearly the same, without any alteration in the course of the stream, which we had no hope of tracing to its source, we landed on the west side to take a view of the lofty trees

[Image of page 415]

which every where adorned its banks. -- They were of a kind that we had seen before, though only at a distance, both in Poverty Bay and Hawke's Bay. Before we had walked an hundred yards into the wood, we met with one of them which was nineteen feet eight inches in the girt, at the height of six feet above the ground: having a quadrant with me, I measured its height from the root to the first branch, and found it to be eighty-nine feet: it was as straight as an arrow, and tapered but very little in proportion to its height, so that I judged there were three hundred and fifty-six feet of solid timber in it, exclusive of the branches. As we advanced, we saw many others that were still longer: we cut down a young one, and the wood proved heavy and solid, not fit for masts, but such as would make the finest plank in the world. Our carpenter, who was with us, said that the timber resembled that of the pitch pine, which is lightened by tapping; and possibly some such method might be found to lighten these, and they would then be such masts as no country in Europe can produce. As the wood was swampy, we could not range far; but we found many stout trees of other kinds, all

[Image of page 416]

of them utterly unknown to us, specimens of which we brought away.

"The river at this height is as broad as the Thames at Greenwich, and the tide of flood as strong; it is not indeed quite so deep, but it has water enough for vessels of more than a middle size, and a bottom of mud so soft that nothing could take damage by running ashore.

"The natives residing about this river do not appear to be numerous, considering the great extent of the country. But they are a strong, well-made and active people, and all of them paint their bodies with red ochre and oil, from head to foot, which we had not seen before. Their canoes were large and well-built, and adorned with carving, in as good a taste as any that we had seen upon the coast."

Such is the account given by Captain Cook of this river and the adjacent country, with both of which he was so highly pleased as to recommend the place as the best suited of any in the island for an European settlement; giving it a decided preference to all the other parts he had visited. But what I have already observed respecting the unsafe anchorage here, will always be found a strong

[Image of page 417]

objection to this opinion, and such as must countervail the many advantages which it certainly possesses. An instance of its being a dangerous road for vessels, occurred not many years back; when the Royal Admiral, a large ship, commanded by Captain Wilson, having entered the river to procure a cargo of timber, was driven from her mooring by the violence of the wind, and very near being dashed to pieces against the shore. This bay, which runs to a considerable distance up the country, is subject to the full force of all the winds that sweep along the sides of it; where the lands being high, and the intermediate space extremely narrow, every gale, for want of room to expend its strength, becomes a furious storm, and brushing through the harbour with incredible violence, suffers nothing on its bosom to intercept its progress. This river has, I believe, been very little visited by Europeans. Captain Cook was the first that ever entered it, which he did in his first voyage in the year 1769. Besides his vessel, and the one I have just noticed, the Royal Admiral, I could discover but only two others that anchored here: the Venus, a small brig carried off by the convicts from the river Derwent in Van Dieman's

[Image of page 418]

Land, and the Fanny, an inconsiderable vessel, commanded by Captain Dell, who cut down three thousand spars as a cargo for a transport ship that was to call for them on her return from Port Jackson. The convicts, in their predatory descents upon the surrounding country, had the barbarity to carry off with them the daughter of Shoupah, and would have likewise taken away the chief himself, had he not made his escape from the unfeeling wretches. To Captain Dell, (according to one of our sailors who was with him at the time,) the natives behaved in the most friendly manner, rendering him all the assistance in their power in getting in the cargo, and readily furnishing him with whatever necessaries they were capable of affording.

At one A. M. we re-passed Point Rodney, and at six in the evening we entered Bream Bay. The land between Point Rodney and this place lies low, with some detached forests of pine, and in many parts large white sandbanks. This bay is every where of a tolerable breadth, and between three and four leagues deep; the two points that form it lie north and south, five leagues distant from each other.

As we were getting very short of provi-

[Image of page 419]

sions, and our warriors had nearly exhausted their stock of fern-root, our principal object in entering this bay was the expectation of meeting with the chief who had visited us at the Cowa-cowa; and from whom we had hopes of procuring a supply. But we were disappointed in seeing this friendly individual; for it being late when we had worked into the bay, and a fresh gale blowing smartly the whole time, no canoe put off; though very probably this might not have been the cause, as we afterwards discovered that their canoes were always kept on the north side, where the projection of the Point might, perhaps, have prevented the natives from seeing us. However, though unsuccessful in other provisions, we got here a seasonable supply of fish, every man being set to work with his hook and line; and we very soon caught a large quantity of bream, the fish that gives name to the bay, and an abundance of snappers. There is here no kind of shelter for shipping, and the bay, which forms almost an exact semicircle, lies quite open and exposed to every wind. A considerable saltwater creek runs for some distance up the country, into the head of which a fresh-water stream empties itself. Korra-korra told us

[Image of page 420]

that our vessel could easily sail up this creek, and that its banks were covered with extensive forests of the cowree. Being so much restricted as to time, we were prevented from exploring it, which we otherwise would have done, as it might have proved an excellent place for procuring timber. The point of land, or cape, that forms Bream Head, when viewed from the inside of the bay, is beautifully picturesque; it rises to some height with several sharp-pointed rocks upon its summit, which are surrounded by shrubs and small trees, appearing to the transient eye of the observer like the venerable ruins of some mouldering abbey or neglected castle.

In the course of this day I made an experiment which I afterwards very much regretted; as it only proved to me, that to provoke the anger of a savage is far too serious a trial of the human temper to be resorted to with safety. Though I had frequently seen Korra-korra in the full tide of his warlike paroxysms, I never had an opportunity of viewing him under the impulse of irritated feelings; and wishing to try his temper in such a state, I was now determined to indulge my curiosity. I therefore approached the place where he was sitting in conversa-

[Image of page 421]

tion with his companions, and threw two or three small chips at him, which, however, he did not appear to notice in the least, nor did he seem at all incommoded, till, by repeating the experiment, I hit him rather sharply over the leg with a piece of wood; when feeling the smart of it, he became so enraged, that, snatching up a piece of dammer 1 he threw it at me with so much force, and with so good an aim, that he amply retaliated the injury he had sustained, by giving me a violent blow on the face. This being completely of my own seeking, I bore it as a just return; and going into the cabin, I was followed by the chief, who, content with having dealt with me in my own manner, was now appeased, and in perfect good humour. But I was determined to make a further trial of his disposition; and going to my chest, I took out my pistols, telling him at the same time, that I must shoot him that very instant. His behaviour was now quite composed, and he evinced no sort of irritation on hearing this terrible announcement; but argued with me very coolly, saying it was not "Mr. Korrakorra that had begun first, but Mr. Nicholas," and exculpating himself, by urging the pro-

[Image of page 422]

vocation he had received. To this I replied, that all he could say was of no consequence; and shewing him the part of my face where he had grazed the skin, told him that nothing less than his life could satisfy my resentment. Speaking these words with a determined and angry tone, I excited all his fears the moment I uttered them; and springing upon me like a lion, he at once wrenched the pistols out of my hand, despising any resistance I could offer. I succeeded, however, in assuring him that it was only a joke, and that I had no intention of shooting him, at which he readily consented to return me the pistols; but getting upon deck immediately after, he took one of the spears from the boom, and called out, in a tone of defiance, for me to come up with my pistols, and that he would fight me if I dared. Believing myself secure upon the deck against his rage, I accepted the challenge; and taking the balls and half the charge of powder out of the pistols, I went up, and found him talking with Mr. Marsden, to whom I pretended to complain of the transaction that had occurred, observing, that the Governor had acted so very ill, that I was come up for the purpose of shooting him. My friend smiled, and taking the pistol out

[Image of page 423]

of my hand, said, "give me the pistol, and I'll shoot him;" but as he was returning it to me, after having presented it at him, the chief rushed in upon me, while the pistol, in my struggle to keep possession of it, went off, and the powder singeing his waistcoat, he became furiously outrageous, jumping and roaring about like the most crazy bedlamite. Nothing could now allay his rage; and holding the pistol by the muzzle, I thought he was going to knock me down with the butt-end of it, when to prevent this, I presented the other at him, telling him, if he attempted to strike me, I would shoot him in reality; for that I had been only joking with him hitherto, the pistol that went off not being charged: of which I endeavoured to convince him by taking the bullet out of my waistcoat pocket. Mr. Marsden joined me in expostulating with him, and used every argument to subdue his ferocity, and make him listen to reason; but he still continued insensible to all that was said, exclaiming, in the violence of his fury, and as if he could devour me that very instant, "Mr. Nicholas no good, no good, shoot Mr. Korra-korra." I knew not how long this dreadful passion was to last, or what might be the consequences, while still

[Image of page 424]

holding the bullet in my hand, and repeatedly declaring to him that it was only henerecka, (their term for joking,) I observed, at length, his countenance change, and become softened into a sudden tenderness no less affecting than his rage was terrible. The transition astonished me; he wept bitterly, and turning all his reproaches against himself, expressed the most poignant regret for having behaved with so much violence, and taken my joke in a serious manner, crying out, in his own emphatic way, that "he was no good." Seeing my finger bleed, which was occasioned by the struggle I had with him for the pistol, he instantly tore off a piece of linen that went round his hair, and bound up the wound; the tears streaming from his eyes, and all his features expressing extreme concern at the idea that he had hurt me. I was distressed by his emotions, and being immediately reconciled to him, we were now as good friends as ever.

It surprised me exceedingly, that at the time this chief was in so raging a passion, none of his countrymen on board attempted for a moment to pacify him, but remained silent spectators till it had subsided. Both Duaterra and Tui appeared quite indifferent

[Image of page 425]

to the scene, neither taking any more notice of it, than if it had been entirely a matter of course, and of no consequence. I asked Duaterra afterwards, if he thought Korrakorra would have struck me; and he replied in the negative. I then questioned him if he supposed the chief had any serious intention of throwing the pistol into the sea, (which at one time he seemed much inclined to do;) but his answer was, that he was too good a soldier for an act of that kind.

Standing out of this bay during the night, and keeping close into the shore, we passed on the following morning, January 20th, a smaller one adjoining Bream Head; where our warriors informed us that plenty of good timber might be procured. Mr. Marsden and myself got into the boat to explore it; and found it capable of affording a very secure shelter for vessels of light draught, the soundings varying from eight to one fathom at low water, and the tide rising about ten feet. The distance between this Bay and Bream Head may be estimated at nearly four leagues; and the entrance, which is narrow, lies among some small islands, there being deep water until you reach the opening, where there is a bar of rocky ground, with nine

[Image of page 426]

fathoms water. Here you pass a rock of a singular appearance; it is perforated quite through, forming a natural arch, and leaving the traveller to marvel what could have given it so strange a conformation. The stratum of the shore and that of the rocks was of clay-stone, similar to those in the Bay of Islands. There were here a great many pines, particularly of that species called by the natives cowree, and from which resin exudes; these we found growing upon the sides of the hills that bordered the harbour, and in a swamp adjoining, we met with a great plenty of another species; but none of the trees in this place, are sufficiently large to induce a vessel at any time to put in here for a cargo. The bay abounded with fish, and there was every necessary facility for drawing the nets, so that in this respect it may hereafter become useful. I saw some curious looking ducks here; the plumage being quite black, with the bill and feet of a red colour, and a circle of the same round the eyes.

Soon after our return to the ship, we had a canoe alongside, with one of the chiefs from Bream Head, accompanied by Moyhanger, the man whom Mr. Savage brought with him to England about seven years ago,

[Image of page 427]

and who excited so much curiosity during his visit there. This individual had been the frequent object of our inquiries, having understood that he had on his return to his native country gone to reside in a distant part of it, but whither we could never ascertain; and we were now not less surprised than pleased at meeting with him. I felt particularly interested at the sight of a person who had seen life in such strange varieties; and who had experienced in the vicissitudes of his fortune, the opposite extremes of the grossest barbarism and of the most refined elegance. Mr. Savage, in his little sketch of this island, speaks in very high terms of his good sense, and the correctness of his conduct; but from what I could learn here concerning him, the account is somewhat overcharged. That gentleman got him presented to the King and the Royal Family, as also to Earl Fitzwilliam, 2 and several others of the nobility.

[Image of page 428]

He appeared when we saw him a handsome intelligent fellow; but the charms of civilized society did not seem to have left impressions sufficiently strong upon his mind to create a desire of participating in them again: perfectly content with his original condition, he shewed no disposition to resign it, nor had the roast beef of Old England produced in

[Image of page 429]

Moyhanger any distaste for the fern-root of New Zealand. We had a good deal of conversation with him; Mr. Marsden told him that his friend Mr. Savage was gone to India, but he received the information with seeming indifference, not appearing in the least degree interested about him. His ideas seemed to be wholly occupied in thinking what he might ask for: we gave him some nails, but these did not content him; he wanted others of a larger size, and taking a particular liking to a cat that we had on board, we indulged his humour by making him a present of it. I asked him if he had seen King George; he said yes, that King George was a great king, but that the Governor at Port Jackson was no king at all. He was particularly urgent for us to go on shore, where, he said, his chief would be glad to see us, and would sell us plenty of pigs and potatoes; and that if we wanted timber we could be abundantly supplied close by an adjacent village, where it grew in great profusion. We told him we would pay his chief a visit in the course of the day, at which he expressed much satisfaction, and took his departure, promising to procure for us whatever provisions we required, and desiring

[Image of page 430]

us to bring the ship as close in towards the shore as possible. Before he went away, I asked him if he would like ever again to visit England; but his reply was, that he had no inclination to emigrate any more.

The expedition of Moyhanger to England, does not appear to have been of any advantage either to himself or his countrymen; whatever improvements he might have thought proper to suggest to them on his return, they were unwilling to adopt, and unfortunately he had no power to enforce; for being only a cookee, his experience was disregarded and his arguments despised. He returned to his native land loaded with valuable presents, and which, had he been a chief, would have given him considerable importance in the eyes of his countrymen; but with these, no acquisitions could exalt a plebeian, and as poor Moyhanger had not the means of protecting his property, I am persuaded he was despoiled of it in a very short time, and reduced to his former state of rude indigence. Certain it is that when we met with him, he had no distinguishing mark from the other cookees, nor could we observe any European articles in his possession; which leads me to believe that he was certainly plundered,

[Image of page 431]

as I am convinced he would not have bartered them all away. It is with regret I am obliged to state a circumstance respecting this man, which tends to lessen the good character given of him by Mr. Savage, and which, after his arrival from England, occasioned him to fall into considerable disgrace. Being on board one of our vessels that put into the Bay of Islands, (the Ferret, Captain Skelton,) he unfortunately contrived to purloin an axe, a temptation too great for his probity to resist; and this being discovered by Tupee, to whose brother Tarra he was then subject, that rigorous chief was so indignant at it, that he gave him a severe flogging, and persuaded the areekee to banish him from his territory, never again to return to it under pain of death. Since that time, the poor fellow has taken up his residence with the chief whose district we were now going to visit.

END OF THE FIRST VOLUME.

Hughes and Baynes, Printers, 29, Maiden-Lane, Covent-Garden.