1966 - Best, A. D. W. The Journal of Ensign Best, 1837-1843 (Ed. N. M. Taylor) - [NEW SOUTH WALES], p 144-182

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JOURNAL OF ENSIGN BEST

N... S... W

A boat containing officers of the fourth and fiftieth regiments having come alongside its occupants & propellers came on board & Bridge declining their invitation to dine with them I was at liberty to accept a similar one given to me. I was soon dressed stepped into the boat and in a few minutes put my foot on the shore of Terra Australis. I do not hesitate to say that I was much disappointed with the appearance of Sydney I had pictured to myself a town built with all the regularity & beauty of design of modern times instead of which behold a straggling assemblage of houses & streets the latter as far as I could judge at right angles but their component parts of all sizes shapes & conditions huddled together as if shaken in a bag & then placed down at irregular intervals varying from an hundred yards to nothing "atall atall". In the centre of the principal street stand the barracks into this I was of course ushered and speedily surrounded by Officers of the 4th 50th & 28th regiments all eagerly enquiring for an army list which most unfortunately I had not brought. After having answered the numerous querries put to me to the best of understanding I called upon Brevet Major Nunn Captain in the 80th but at present Commandant of the mounted police. I should describe him as a handsome & most gentlemanly man extremely like the Duke of Wellington as far as feature is concerned; dress appears to be his idol he is a great dandy but without the usual affectation & foppery of that animal, his manner of recieving me was such as could not fail to leave a favourable impression. In contradistinction was Capt Furlong who came in immediately afterwards I had previously seen him on board the ship. Far inferior in personal appearance to the Major he seemed adapted to roughing the annoyances I cannot call them hardships of a soldiers life in this colony and of an active stirring mind with great decision of character. I dined with the Major at the mess of the 50th and returned on board ship to sleep. As I had had no opportunity of delivering my letters of introduction I sent them by the Post as the safest way of ensuring their delivery. The next morning I got up early Bridge went on shore leaving me busy preparing everything for disembarkation. It was well I did so for about twelve or nearer one while listening to the Guns firing in honor of Queen Victoria an official was put into my hands informing me that we were to disembark and be on board a steamer two or three miles off to proceed to Paramatta, by three oclock & the next day the order informed me I was to march to Windsor. 1 Great exertions were necessary to get up the baggage in fact

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we only just saved our time, meeting the steamer (which had to come part of the distance between its moorings & our ship in order to gain the mouth of the creek leading to Paramatta). The country we passed through going to Paramatta astonished and amused rather than pleased me consisting chiefly of forests or in the language of the settlers of Bush of the different species of Gum tree & Iron bark both barren leafless trees which look very fine in a picture but poor indeed in nature. In places the ground had been cleared and sometimes the situation of the houses was good and pretty. The river is in some parts very shallow, & salt the whole way it is in fact an arm of the sea. We performed the distance 16 miles in about two hours the men were then marched into their quarters & I went to report the arrival of the detachment to the Colonel of the 28th ; he was not to be found at the mess but a very good dinner was, of which I partook heartily. At eleven I slept on a shake down given to me by Mr Nicholetts & reposed most soundly until 4 oclock on the

27th I had ordered that the men should be ready to march a[t] the above mentioned hour; when I went out not one was to be seen. It was 6 oclock before I had them all assembled ready to march. The reason of this delay was that nearly all the men xcept the noncommissioned officers had been drunk the night before some were even then hardly sober. Old Horton who in spite of his infirmities had begged hard to be allowed to march came to a standstill before we had gone two miles, some of those who were drunk soon followed his example this I had forseen my remedy was simple I left a Serjeant behind to get them along the best way he could desiring him always to be with the hindermost. Having got over about seven miles we stopped for breakfast. Just as we were preparing to march again a kind of coach drove up containing the women & children of the Detachment & old Horton. One of the men begged hard to be allowed to go with them & as he was evidently ill and not able to hold out much longer I gave him permission, the boy Sydney Port also went with them. As we got on, in spite of my halting to rest every two miles, the numbers with me continually decreased untill a Serjeant & three men were all who kept up & one of these had got his knapsack carried by a cart which was passing. 2 To attempt a lengthened

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description of the country we travelled through would be ridiculous as a few words will suffice. Bush, Bush, Bush, with here & there a small clearing & more frequently symptoms of it, exhibited in the burning stumps of trees; the road was execrable bearing a strong resemblance to that to "Brenuin Crags" with this exception that whereas the latter is chiefly rock so the former is a deep sand in parts very hilly & always full of great holes but in this country it is called good & is travelled by a coach & mail. The extreme heat rendered our march really distressing; You may wonder how we should feel the sun so much in the bush: this I will explain. As I remarked before the trees are very bare of foliage which is entirely confined to the top a rugged stem rises to the height of 50 or 60 feet & in many instances even more then a few straggling branches shoot out & from them the smaller ones & leaves both in very slender proportions you will see that this formation is insufficient to keep out the burning sun while the closeness & thickness of the trunks assisted by a ground covering of low scrubs effectually check what little wind may blow. When two or three miles from Windsor a cart passed which the Serjeant in the rear had hired for the men I ordered them to halt & await me about a mile out of the town. Immediately after we met some of the men, when great greetings took place a little further the Colonel 3 himself was descried he welcomed me most kindly & I presented Major M 4 Nivens letter of introduction. In half an hour more the men were in quarters & I in the mess room regaling myself on weak brandy and water. There being no barrack room for me I was compelled to go to the Inn. My baggage had not arrived but one of my future comrades a Mr Lockhart 5 supplied me with a change of linen so that my appearance improved by the time for going to Mess. Our party consisted of seven or eight including the Colonel. Pleading fatigue I retired at an early hour to the Inn where a clean room & comfortable bed awaited me.

28th From this date up to the 5th of Janry 38 I cannot pretend to write a Diary not having kept one. For some days as soon as I recovered the use of my feet which had been cut to pieces by the march I was employed house hunting but I did not succeed in getting one for twelve days & even then the Government allowance would not cover the rent. Bad as this was it was better than remaining at the Inn which was ruinous. I had only been in the colony a very short time when I was attacked by a

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1837

species of cholera which was very prevalent at that time & which few excape who have recently arrived. It is the first step which nature takes in her seasoning process. In three days although much pulled down I was convalescent & I then took possession of my house. Being fairly settled I turned my attention to the zoology of the country. I was not I found in the most favorable part of New South Wales. The only animals I have yet found wild are the Opossum, Flying Squirrel & the Native Cat which last I consider a species of Weasel. The birds are the blue mountain Parrot, Bronze wing Pigeon, Rail, Quail, Diamond bird, Wood Duck, Ducks, King fisher, Storks, Herns, Leatherhead, Laughing Jackass &c &c. There are also a variety of Hawks and a kind of Crow. The flying fox a species of Vampire Bat will be met with shortly. Insects swarm but are chiefly of the commoner descriptions; there are few Beetles & those not very beautiful, Scorpions & Centipedes. I have a small specimen of that singular insect the Walking Straw. Snakes abound some deadly; the most venomous are the Whip Slow Adder & Black Snake I have seen the latter but could not get him, he crawled into a hole. There are others I have not seen among which is a species of Boa one of which was some time (I believe years) ago killed on the River Hawkesbury thirty two feet in leng[t]h. I repeat this on good authority. I have seen a Diamond snake 7ft 5in in length. 6 The waters swarm with fish; the Mullet, Perch & Herring & that extraordinary compound of the Beast, Bird fish & insect the Ornithorinchus Paradoxus is not unknown. It resembles the Mole or rather the Beaver in the nature of its fur has the bill of a Duck & spur of a Cock which contains a sting like a Hornet or Scorpion, 7 it has claws & is webfooted, I am told that its intestines strongly resemble those of a fish. Guanas & Lizards some of great size conclude my cataloge. One moonlight night I went out opossum shooting. On arriving at the theatre of our sport we saw them sitting on the trees in every direction we shot five and three flying Squirrels & then returned we also saw a native cat but did not get it. On the whole I pronounce it insipid sport as the fellow if hit runs a few yards and then holds on you fire again & again untill he drops, if missed he sits still for his enemy to take another shot; they are very tenacious of life. One fell

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after recieving the contents of eight barrels on skinning him his hide was a perfect sieve; probably the great height at which they sit prevents the shot penetrating deep. I made a short excursion to Emu Plains so called from the number of those birds which once abounded there but alas! they have all retired far into the bush retreating gradually as civilization advances. The price of Horses in general is excessively high a decent hack cannot be procured much under forty pounds. The custom is to allow them to run wild untill two years old and then to take them up, train & work them. Such treatment destroys the animal by the time that he is six years old whereas if trained as in England he would work untill fifteen or twenty but present profit is all the settler looks for. Their pace is a kind of amble a perfect trot is seldom seen and all journeys are performed at that pace or at a gallop the latter being preferred if the weather and road will permit; of course the horses of the upper classes are paced as in England and it is what appears to be their natural pace which I allude to. One more circumstance I will mention and then go on with my journal. It is the erroneous idea at home with respect to the fruits of N. S. W. Peaches, Nectrines, & Apricots are plentiful but nearly tasteless. Cherries, Strawberries, Apples, pears, and all the lesser fruits are dispensed with a very sparing hand, Mulberries are exceedingly fine, Oranges & Lemons tolerable, the Melon is not yet ripe but I am told it is one of the best fruits of the Country, there are fine grapes and bad figs. In writing these two last pages I beg it may be understood that I write as I find and according to my present impressions which further acquaintance with the Colony may possibly change.

Friday January 5th 1838. I was just preparing to write to my Father when I was ordered to Berrima a distance of ninety eight miles. I went out and with considerable trouble hired a cart horse for nine days being the time that I expected to be out. At four oclock I started with a couple of changes of linen, my pistols, and a box in which I intended to put any beetles I might meet with by the way. I proceeded that evening to Paramatta (the road I have already described) which I did not reach untill past eight in consequence of my horse having cast a shoe. I put up at the "Red Cow" a capital Inn kept by a Mrs Walker whose name extends, borne by fame, throughout the whole country: 8 being tired with my days work I went to a clean bed provided with Mosquito curtains at an early hour.

6th After breakfast I went to see some of the officers of the 28th who

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told me that one of our officers stationed at Liverpool & who I had not yet seen was on the same Court Martial as myself & advised my going on in the Evening to his place & enquiring what his movements might be. Considering this advice good I changed my plans which had been to go to Campbell Town that evening & halted at Liverpool where I introduced myself to the above mentioned officer a Mr Torkinton 9 he begged me to allow him to put up my horse that night and ride with him next morning his route being by the Cow pastures instead of Campbell Town. Glad to have a companion I accepted his offer. Having ridden only nine miles (road & bush as usual) I went out for a stroll in the course of which I saw my first Stockade. It consisted of nothing but an assemblage of bark Huts placed on two or three sides of a square for the soldiers to live in the fourth being occupied by several wooden cages with a small iron grated opening as window these cages are some 10 or twelve feet long & 8 or ten broad & perhaps 10 feet high certain shelves serve for beds a blanket only being allowed the prisoners are shut up in these every night at six and brought out at the same hour in the morning. Sentries parade the rear and front of these boxes all night in some stockades only one sentry is posted. Returning from my walk I found a soldiers bed prepared for me my friends quarters containing two small rooms (in Barracks). No Mosquito Curtains being attached to a soldiers bed I was worried to death by them buzzing & biting in every direction at last they drove me to hide my head under the clothes and thus fell asleep.

7th We rose at five and were "en route" by six. As I rode through the town I had an opportunity of examining it; it is what in England would be called a village of no great size but it possesses a good hospital & Jail. 10 Our road lay through the Cow pastures distance 18 miles. This part of the road was in the ordinary state of repair and the country for the most part uninteresting. After passing the Cow pasture river the road became worse and the country wilder untill we reached the foot of the Razor Back Hills. Here we dismounted and led our horses (the day was beginning to get hot) as we ascended the view which opened upon us was most beautiful & singular. One turn in the road reminded me of the view of the vale of Evesham from near Birdlip the hills nearly surrounded us in much the same manner with a high range over a plain in front and serving for a background. These Hills and vales presented one continual forest not a speck of cleared ground was to be seen and as far as the eye could reach nothing could be percieved but one leafy mass rising and falling into a thousand different shapes beautifully shaded as

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the clouds passed across the sun. I was never in a situation which left such an impression of loneliness, even at sea I never felt it to such an extent. On descending onto the low grounds the country became tamer again in its general features, although it was not wanting in spots of excessive beauty; small glades, dry water courses &c serving to diversify the scene. We rested during the heat of the day at a small Inn having ridden thirty two miles and in the evening renewed our journey proceeding ten miles further to "Bargo brush" where there was a good Inn. After seeing our horses well cleaned & fed we took some tea & went to our rooms which were free from Mosquitos & had few flies.

8th Not being accustomed to riding since leaving home I did not wake untill eight oclock. We had now twenty five miles to ride. While standing in front of the Inn a vehicle denominated the mail drove up on which was Capt Hunter the Military secretary who told us that the Court Martial was to be held at Wingello upwards of twenty miles beyond Berrima. This intelligence delighted me but my companion commenced grumbling at having so far to go. We had intended riding on in the evening but our present information induced us to start instantly. The country we passed through was hilly & rocky seemingly calculated to support nothing but Gum Trees, the roads would sometimes have done credit to "Learning Lane" in other parts it was execrable. We saw many beautiful birds and met the waggons or drays bringing down the wool these we had seen during the whole journey. Bullocks are almost exclusively used for this work & the number of carcasses and skeletons by the roadside shew the manner these poor animals bear a journey of some hundred miles travelling from 12 to 23 miles a day frequently without a drop of water for many hours. About three oclock we reached Berrima and there found that our original instructions were correct. I was introduced to Lieut North 80th Rgt who commanded there & who I had not seen before. Having seen our horses taken care of and cleaned (by the Landlord of the little Inn where we engaged our beds) his hostler being too drunk to assist we employed the remainder of the day in examining a new Jail & Court House building there. Berrima is a small scattered village I do not suppose that there are 50 houses or huts in it if we except the stockade which is similar to the one already described; it was beautifully clean & did great credit to the Commanding Officer. As for the house of the latter it was nothing but a bark Cottage divided into four apartments & containing his wife, wifes mother, and brother, the mother a Mrs Burnett informed me that she was at school with a Miss Catherine Devins. Who could that have been? When sufficiently tired with examining the Town we took tea and retired.

9th I got up early went into the bush & captured a few specimens of

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beetles which were quite new to me. Returned to breakfast at 1/2 past nine. The other members of the Court Martial soon arrived and at twelve we sat down, concluding buissiness on which four people had come from 70 to 100 miles in about half an hour. Except that I delight in being thus sent over the country I would take up the pen against the practice. The other two members returned almost as soon as the Court Martial was over but we remained & dined with Mr North we also determined on remaining at Berrima untill our sentence was approved. We walked about untill dinner time and in the evening went out Opossum shooting our sport was not good killing only four squirrels and one opossum it was between one and two when we returned heartily tired & right glad after taking a little supper to go to our Inn & to bed.

10th A grand Kangaroo hunt had been planned for this day but the campaign against our midnight foes had so weakened our forces that it was postponed to the following & in place of it we went to try our guns against the Quail. In course of the day we killed Quail 6 brace one Parrott a Bandicoate and a native Partridge (a bird very like a Thrush) we also drank a few gallons of milk at a farmhouse and then returned dreadfully tired. I had seen for the first time while out the white Cockatoo they kept in large flocks but were too wary to be got at. We had sent to borrow a famous kangaroo dog which is a species of large Greyhound from a gentleman who resided near us; the answer was that his son accompanied by a Mr Waddy (of the Mounted Police and 50th Rgt) was going out & would be happy if we would join him; this was agreed to & in expectation of a glorious day we went to bed to dream of splendid sport and great success.

11th As it had been agreed that I should not get up untill called I did not rise when I first awakened at five oclock. About 1/2 past six Mr North and Mr Waddy arrived I was up and dressed in a minute & in one more on my horse armed with a Sergeants fusee. A ride of a couple of miles brought us to the farm from which we were to start. Here we found a slight breakfast & a heap of dogs. Our guides and beaters two in number lead the way, and in course of an hour a Wollabi (the small Kangaroo) was discovered and run but excaped from the thickness of the brush or scrub as it is here called. By a series of manoevres Waddy contrived to separate us from the beaters when this had been effectually done, he announced the impossibillity of finding Kangaroo & proposed going home; to this, finding he was determined, we of course acceeded not knowing the bush and unable again to find the beaters. The reason for this proceeding was that he was in love with a young lady the niece of the Gentleman whose dog we had, he could only remain a few days in that part of the country and could not afford to lose a moment. By half past ten I was at the Inn

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again finding my friend Torkinton, not being a sportsman, quietly seated at his breakfast. In the Afternoon we walked with Mrs North & while out met out [sic] beaters just returning who said that they had seen plenty of large Kangaroo and that had we not lost them we should have had fine sport. This account grieved me much & I vowed vengeance against the fair one who had thus destroyed our sport. As we proposed going up the Country as far as Wingello and returning Sunday night North planned another Kangaroo day, Monday, and how this was again unsuccessful I shall endeavor to show. On returning to the Inn at nine oclock we found that the landlord had let Torkintons room as this was the second time it was too much to stand so we paid our bill & as no other bed was to be got in the Town we ordered our horses and went down the road ten miles on our return to our respective quarters, leaving a message for North explaining the state of our affairs. We arrived at the Inn where we proposed sleeping at twelve and leaving orders to be called a little before five went to bed.

12th I awakened at the hour named roused my companion, dressed, took a mouthful, mounted my horse & rode untill the heat of the day accomplishing 38 miles, we then put up at a little Inn dined & fed our horses and in the cool started again and by eight arrived at Liverpool 19 miles further. I am not particular in my journal for this day as we travelled the same road as that already described. Here my soldiers bed and a Pigeon pie awaited my arrival of which I partook most heartily my appetite having been increased by my fare since I left Liverpool, principally consisting of Fowls, stinking bacon, sour bread, and beer. Having eaten a capital supper I slept soundly untill the morning of the

13th At five when I got up mounted my horse (solus) having taken leave of my friend & rode to Paramatta; here I breakfasted & then took the steam boat for Sydney arriving about half past ten. I went on board the James Pattison transacted some little buissiness and returned from Sydney at four reached Paramatta in time to dine at the mess of the 28th & after dinner rode to Windsor arriving safe in my old quarters. In concluding this history of my first trip into the Interior I must express my satisfaction with the beauty of the scenery and the pleasantness of the climate so different from the scorching heat we endure here & I trust that my various duties may lead to many such another.

14th Sunday. The first thing I did was to send my Servant to take home the horse and report my arrival to the Colonel & at the same time ask leave of absence from Church Parade. This although officer of the day, I procured my grounds being a severe headache which left me in the course of a couple of hours. I put to death a few beetles I had brought home with

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me and made out my estimate of expences I then wrote some Journal & so passed the day untill dinner time. I ought to have mentioned that all the 80th had arrived some time. Majors Kempt, Bunbury, Lieuts Smyth, Lightbody, Ensign Singleton, Quatr Hayes and Ass. Sur. Gammie being the Officers who arrived since me. Smyth 11 had come overland to Calcutta & there embarked for Hobart Town arriving here after a journey of 18 months from England. No sooner did we meet then we came together by mutual attraction acquaintance has only served to increase our friendship he is a despiser of the great God brandy and water and in other respects most temperate, he is clever, indeed highly talented, well informed on almost every subject and a most agreable unaffected companion such as I had long wanted. I look for great pleasure & profit from his society.

Monday 15th At 1/2 past five got up and went to drill; this over bathed eat breakfast & being a cool day went out shooting, after the Parade which is at 1/2 past ten. Ran about in a Lagoon up to my knees in water half the day sun came out very hot over head nice & cool below. Shot 1 Quail 5 1/2 brace Snipe 1 Rail came home tired, dressed for dinner spent the evening with Smith at 10 went to bed.

16th Got up at 6 wrote journal, bathed, at 1/2 past 10 went to Parade, came in wrote letter, this reminds me that on Saturday night I found one from Louisa awaiting my arrival. Went out caught Beetles. Went to dinner, Retired to my room read some time, went out for a walk, came home & at eleven went to bed.

17th Drill, Parade &c. Copied a Sepia drawing. In the afternoon at past five went into the Government Domain (a small Paddock) to hear the band & see the quality who came to listen. At seven went to Mess. At nine to a party given by a Mrs or Mr Gamack (the Colonial Surgeon here) (I believe the lady is the person who is supposed to do things of this sort) in return for a Dejune & ball given by us some time before during the irregular hours of the log. Spent a pleasant evening plenty of dancing & waltzing. Got home by 1/2 past two & directly turned in.

18th Got up just in time to breakfast before going to Parade. Very lazy all day the effects of my dissipertations all I did was to sit or lie on my bed and read.

19th 1/2 past 5 got up; drill, bathe, Parade, reading & writing untill four in the afternoon. At five drove out to Hobart Ville (seat of Mr Cox

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formerly in the army think the 16th Regt & who settled) to dinner. Four of us went. Dancing, talking &c amused us well all the evening. The Party consisted of Mr & Mrs Cox, Miss Cox (m) Miss Piper (m) Miss J Cox, Miss F Cox, Miss Dumoulin, A Governess and two or three boy Coxes. I paid my attentions principally to the younger branches of the ladies leaving the Ms to the others. Miss Grace Dumoulin is a very pretty, nice little Girl about 15 and very like Grace Godsal she is the daughter of the Surgeon of the 50th. About one we broke up & the distance being only five miles, in spite of the road, by two I was in bed.

20th Went to drill & being Orderly Officer saw the men get their breakfast. Found that sour Peaches were not good eating so popped something down to stop their effects. Performed all my duties as Orderly reading, drawing &c in the intervals. Soon after nine P.M. Cromarty who I was expecting arrived gave him supper and a shake down to which he retired about 12 oclock.

21st Sunday. Got up about seven Cromarty unwell with Dysentery he soon got better but could not go to Church & the united effects of the Peaches and their enemy stopped my going also. Sunday passed as all Sundays do. In the evening the band played delightfully in front of the Mess house for some hours till near twelve. The Party then broke up not before it was time some getting noisy.

22nd Got up at 1/2 past four to see Cromarty off to Sydney. When he was gone went to bed again that is laid down with a book and fell asleep. Shonk came in for my boots at 1/2 past seven. Went and bathed. Smyth I am sorry to say went off to Sydney at two oclock A.M. on his way to Port Phillip 12 where he is to take the command he is a great loss to me. Spoilt paper & wasted color during the heat of the day. In the Evening went out fishing caught nothing to speak off. Hayes in the evening took some coffee in my room he went away early and ten oclock found me in bed.

23rd Got up early bathed, came home breakfasted, went to Parade, wrote some log and read Haji Baba. 13 Went out for Beetles hunted without success came home tired, eat dinner. In the evening took a stroll with Hayes, came in and was in bed before eleven.

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24th Went to drill at six. Bathed came in to dress found what I had long wanted a letter from home from Fanny. After breakfast called upon Mr North where I got some beetles and Whales teeth or tusks came home & arranged my new acquisitions dressed for the band. Teazed little Dumoulin about Smyth who had made a great deal of her. Came in to Mess and went to bed as soon as the Mail had arrived.

25th Drill at six. Went to bathe (after seeing the bread & meat as Orderly Officer) but the river was so dirty that I did not go in do not know the cause. Breakfasted with Hayes went to Parade. Wrote journal saw the dinners at 1/2 past 12 visited the Guard, Prison, and other sentry then came in & wrote again. It is a desperately hot day. Went out & got a few beetles. After dinner sat reading untill eleven then visited the Guard & went to bed.

26th Up at six. River dirty, rowed out in boat into the clean, bathed. Thermometer yesterday at its highest in the hospital 94° in the shade today 99°. Drew all the morning, in the cool caught beetles. After dinner took a long walk went to bed at eleven. Heard today that Lord Melbourne was out 14 & that Port McQuarrie 15 was to be relieved and other changes made.

27th Rose at seven bathed from the boat. Parade at twelve inspection of barracks. Very hot. Came in settled accounts with Shonk & made entries in book then wrote log. This finished went out and took Nettle for a swim came in dressed for dinner. In the evening walked out again came in read and at eleven went to bed.

28th Did not awaken untill past seven. Went to bathe, breakfasted, went to Church, returned and applied to the Colonel for leave to go to Sydney. Got it. I then went home to write out fresh expences for the Berrima Court Martial while thus employed heard that a man was drowned went to see found it was the case. Several boys were diving for him, one kept under an extraordinary time. At length the body was found quite dead no one knew the lengh of time he had been in the water but it was believed some hours. He was a Journeyman butcher who had gone to bathe while intoxicated he could not swim. He was the first dead man I had ever seen. After this I finished my accounts then went out walking, fetched home Nettle as the officer I had lent her to was to march to Port McQuarrie at two next morning. A thunder storm came on which lasted about an hour this was

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five oclock. It is a curious fact that when a thunderstorm passes over it always returns within twelve hours, accordingly it returned about eight very heavily the lightening was more vivid and the thunder louder than any thing I had ever see & heard ever here where they are truly tremendous; by ten it was nearly over & I went to my room having booked a place in the Mail & wrote my journal. After I had finished I went to bed.

[29th] Got up at 1/2 past one the mail was very late & it was near three before we got away. It rained incessantly the whole way. Having a good great coat I was quite dry when we arrived in Sydney about eight oclock. I went to the quarters of Major Nunn where I expected to find Smyth but was told by the servant that he had gone into the country & would not be back untill the next day. I then went on board the James Pattison & found them all stowing wool. This process and all that wool undergoes from the time it leaves the sheep's back deserves to be recorded. We will suppose it packed in bales and safely stowed on a dray carrying from nine to twelve bales, to these six or eight bullocks are harnessed or yolked and they proceed down the country at an average rate of 17 mile a day plenty of the beasts dying on the road. When arrived in Sydney or to the port from whence they are to be shipped the bales are opened & remade in a more compact manner; they are then sent on board ship where by the use of a Sampson two & sometimes three bales are screwd into the size of one and are then tightly corded when the row of 16 a tier of bales is formed they are pressed right and left by the use of an instrument similar to the Sampson (I believe the first instrument is called the Press and the second Sampson) which works horizontally; to prevent holes being made in the sides of the bales pressed two boards of the same lenght are used for the screws to act upon when sufficient room has been gained the bale is slipped in the screws withdrawn and applied to push it home the pressure is now so immense that the Capstan is used to withdraw the boards no other means being sufficient. Coming ashore I played my first game of Billiards with Cromarty beating him. I was surprized to find that I played fully as well as when I left England. He being obliged to go to his ship, I walked up the street & there to my surprize met Smyth who gave me such information as prevented me applying to Capt Hunter for Bathurst. It was a wet disagreable day, we paid a few visits among others one to a Mrs Erskine who Smyth was well acquainted with in England & who had accompanied her husband out here. We were invited out to dinner by another of Smyths friends and in the evening we went to the play. The pieces acted were the Masked ball and Alladin; the first was manufactured into such an admirable pantomine that it was impossible not to be diverted but the

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second not being so highly susceptible of the ludicrous was quite disgusting. Imagine the acting of the worst of the English strolling companies & you will approach that of the Sydney company. It was past two before I got to bed thoroughly worn out with the days work.

30th Got up at seven went on board the James Pattison took a delightful swim from one of her boats returning at 10 to breakfast. Wandered about; paid a visit to the Bishop at Wooloomooloo did not find him at home, at five took leave of Smyth & started in the mail for Windsor arriving at 10 oclock, went to bed directly.

31st Up at seven wrote log untill breakfast time at 1/2 past ten went to parade general inspection & muster, after this was over assisted to raise a boat belonging to the Surveyor of the district which had been swamped to preserve it: Mr North the Police Magistrate had the care of it, but resigned that office to his son in law Mr Wyatt of the 50th as soon as it was bailed out we tried it, the result was most satisfactory for being furnished with a good suit of sails we found we could tack about as we pleased & even beat against wind and tide. Sailed about till dinner time after which I read untill bed time.

Febry 1st I had made an appointment to meet Wyatt at eight to be shown some good shooting. Kelson 17 joined us. We walked to a farm about five miles distant the owner of which Wyatt knew, his name was Cobcroft & a more civil obliging fellow could not be easily found. Having drank some wine & water we salied out accompanied by Cobcroft his son and dog. We shot all day returning late in the evening our sport had been good all doing something except Kelson who contrived to shoot one of the men while endeavouring to kill the only Quail he fired at. The man was shot in his head & thigh but fortunately not much hurt. My share of the days work was 2 1/2 brace Quail a Couple of red Ducks a large snipe and a bittern the last I never actually got, from his falling into a weedy lagoon where he died having first given the dog who went to fetch him out such a peck on the head as fairly drove him away frightening him so much that he would not go near it even when dead. It was past eight before I arrived at home thoroughly tired & in the best of humours for going to bed.

2nd After the fatigues of the previous day you may be sure that I did not see the sun rise nevertheless breakfast was concluded before Parade. Just as I had disposed of my game I received a visit from Wyatt who proposed another excursion the next day; this I acceeded to & we then

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arranged our plan viz to start about one sail down to Cobcrofts then land & shoot and finally sail back again. I believe that I am spelling the Farmers name wrongly and that it is Cobcroft. * In the afternoon I walked with Major Bunbury who is as kind as he was at Chatham. The evening I spent with Hayes who gave me some capital Coffee and then we took a sober glass of brandy & water at halfpast ten I departed home carrying "Colonel Hawkers instructions to young sportsmen" under my arm. I turned in read an hour put my fight out and dreamed untill the

3rd at half past six. At Parade I received orders to attend a Court Martial at Paramatta on Monday the fifth. At one I called for Wyatt the wind blew very fresh half an hour sufficing to accomplish fully four miles we landed sent a boy to apprize Kopcroft of our arrival, loaded our guns & patiently awaited his coming. In less than half an hour we began working the same ground as on Thursday. At first we got on slowly enough but as the day advanced matters improved. On going to pick up one quail we found a large yellow snake of the most venomous kind in the act of purloining it, the hissing of the reptile caused some little alarm, indicating that it was in a dangerous mood; but before we could get a shot without killing the dog who was close to it he disappeared. Close by we saw the tomb of a man who had died from the bite of a similar snake: an agreable hint. The hawks of the Country are most daring one pursued a wounded Quail, recieving the contents of a barrel for his pains; this caused him to drop some feathers but did not deter him from following us & attempting to secure another - he was again fired at & wounded more severely this he considered too strong a hint to be disregarded & accordingly made off. My bag produced at home five brace of Quail, Wyatt had nearly as many and a Red Bill a bird with long legs & neck, black & as big as a duck. By nine we were at home I eat a capital supper related the exploits of the day to those who came to see me & when they took their departures went to bed.

4th At seven saw the meat served out for the day at 1/2 past the Breakfasts. At eleven marched the troops to church; on returning dismissed the Parade saw the dinners and performed my other duties as Orderly. In the afternoon went out for a sail. After dinner ordered Shonk to put up a change of linen in my carpet bag. I read untill half past nine gave orders to the Sentry to call me at half past two and went to bed.

Monday 5th Was called as directed turned out immediately which gave me time to go my rounds before I started on the Coach at three. Major

* Cobcroft is the name I have corrected it throughout.

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Bunbury went by the same conveyance preferring the inside; Kelson had gone at two by the Mail. In due time we reached Paramatta breakfasted at Mrs Walkers "Dun cow" at eight, then amused ourselves as we best could untill twelve, when the Court assembled. By two our bussiness was ended we took an early dinner at 1/2 past three, & I then hunted beetles till six at which hour we returned to Windsor per Coach; arrived about ten, & feeling the effects of my early rising went to bed.

6th This was not a very early morning with me. I awakened about my usual hour but not having anything particular to do & being rather lazy I took Coll Hawker into bed intending to read for an hour, but by some means I contrived to fall asleep and snoozed for a couple at nine I got up; my Toilet & breakfast occupying me till Parade. I then scribbled & read an hour or two "pour passer le temps", after which I visited the Colonel who was laid up with the gout. This & curing the beetles I had brought from Paramatta occupied me untill four oclock a constitutional filled the vacuum between that time & seven our dinner hour. I sat with Kelson untill past ten then I wished him good night.

7th Orderly again duties as usual; will not repeat them. Made out my expences for the last Court Martial & sent them to the President Major Bunbury for his signature. In the afternoon our band played in the Government domain which I think I before described as a two acre paddock containing the house of the Magistrate and the Police stables and on this and similar occasions the rendezvous of all the families of the neighbourhood being at least three. The dinner call sounded before our visitors retired, when they were fairly off I made my toilet with all speed hastened to the Mess room, proving by the diligent use I made of my masticators that none of the fair ones had stolen away my heart.

8th While dressing the Majors servant came to say that his master was going out shooting & requested the pleasure of my company if I had nothing better to do. I signified that his proposal met my approbation. I had just finished breakfast when he called for me. The morning had been fine yet squally looking. Hardly had we gone a mile or bagged a bird when a New South Wales April shower came on drenching us to the skin. Once wet through it little mattered getting worse so on we went the rain, thanks to the inventors of percussion not interfering with our sport. After it ceased we emerged from behind the trees which had served as a partial shelter & shot under a clear sky for an hour or so; then another storm came up & so we played bo peep all day alternately wet & dry. We returned by six having each killed 4 1/2 brace of Quail. In the evening I studied Coll Hawker untill eleven.

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9th Up at seven wrote Journal which occupied me untill Breakfast time. Went to Parade and afterwards to a large sale of sheep and Cattle. In the afternoon rode twenty miles on a horse lent me by Mr North, Wyatt going for a ride & wanting a companion. Got home late eat supper went to bed.

10th A Shooting excursion had been planned for today. The Major was to call for me. The morning proved very wet. About one it cleared. I was sitting reading when I heard the report of a gun looked out of window & saw the Major & Hayes in a field a little way off. Having everything ready I was soon equipped. On joining them I reproached the Major most bitterly for his want of faith when to my horror he added insolence to his former errors humbly begging my pardon & assuring me that he had quite forgotten his appointment. Between us we bagged 15 brace of which I killed the same as the last day many birds were lost by the obstinacy & stupidity of the dog. We reached home about halfpast seven (the Major had walked on while Hayes & myself tried to find some of the wounded birds. Being late for Mess we dined in my room conversing together (Kelson had come in) untill bed time.

11th Sunday. Orderly Officer. In the Afternoon sailed in the boat.

12th A very squally stormy morning just what Wyatt & myself had been longing for. Found the boat swamped by the heavy rain of the previous night and in deep water. Weighed her up bailed her out hoisted the sails & away we went. Worked her all day in different directions she would do anything. Dined at mess in the evening read a[nd] wrote.

13th A fine warm agreable day. Got up a cricket match in the afternoon. In the evening I was served with a subpoena to appear at the quarter sessions as witness for the Queen against Terrence Gunn a constable who I had pulled up by the Colonels directions for assaulting a soldier in the execution of his duty, at the same time it was notified to me that I was one of the Military jury. In the evening I read Coll Hawker and wrote my journal.

14th A wet, rainy, stormy day did nothing but read and write, drew a little.

15th At ten oclock the Court of Quarter Sessions was opened I was in attendance all day as juror. Owing to the acknowledged superiority of a Military over a civil brain the Military jury consists of 7 members a civil of twelve. The only case of interest we tried was that of our own cook a first rate artiste he had not been long in our service & was discharged

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from his former situation for stealing a pie; of course he would have been kept in prison till his trial if we had not heard of his good qualities & bailed him. When put on his trial he chose a Military jury & was of course acquitted. We were not such fools as to send a good servant to jail. Most of the Party dined with Mr Beddek a gentlemanly lawyer here, I was asked but was too lame to go. Being quite alone I went to bed early.

16th On the jury again (mem. Get 15s per diem for my opinion) A Most amusing case of double assault was tried by a civil jury. A Man & Woman swore assaults against each other. The woman was a perfect virago with the most extraordinary gift of the gab she kept the house in a perpetual roar. One of her witnesses was her assigned servant a simple Irish girl (Fools as well as the wise find their way out here). Her evidence not being precisely what her Mistress wished that lady having sworn that in return for notching his head with a cutlass the man had knocked her down with a stick as thick as a mans thigh and which was in fact the rafter of a house she turned round to the girl with the face of a demon & these awful words "you shant go and be married tomorrow". The court were all aghast, the Chairman demanded an explanation which the girl afforded by saying with tears in her eyes that she was to have gone to Paramatta to be married the following day (her lover being in court) that she had the permission of the Governor & concluded by begging the Magistrates to protect her. The case ended, the Chairman summed up, the Jurors retired, & appeared again to return a verdict of "not guilty" for both parties. The Chairman then took the servant from her mistress & sent her to the factory 'till she was married & reported the Mistress to the Governor as a person unfit to be entrusted with an assigned servant. My case came next the Jury (civil) returned a verdict of "guilty" without quitting the box & the constable was fined three pounds. The Chairman, Crown Prosecutor &c &c dined with us a delightful party it was. Our band played the most admired Overtures & pieces in its usual style & the utmost Conviviality & harmony prevailed untill a late hour. Sometime before I had hurt my leg it had gradually got worse from neglect all this day & the previous I had been dead lame & in great pain and from that evening I was regularly laid up (to prevent any insinuations I observe that I scarcely touched the wine) I shall therefore drop the diary untill well again & substitute whatever I think will amuse.

I take up my narrative or rough sketch of the animals of N. S. W. and its other peculiarities by making some small additions to my previous list. First comes a creature of the Lizard kind I saw a few days ago it was a stuffed specimen and goes by the name of the deaf adder or sleeping Lizard its owner was unable to tell me which was its proper cognomen. Its form is disgusting resembling a short thick bloated Lizard with a

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sharp head rather rounded at the muzzle very short thin legs and a tail not tapering away but short & thick not above half the length of its body; looking carelessly at it, it appears the same size all the way untill the creature suddenly ends in a blunt point. The whole animal may be 18 inches long and perhaps nine in circumference its body and tail are black mottled with yellow & to sum up its good qualities its bite is said to be instant death. I do not know wether it is common but imagine not. 18 The Flying Fox. One was offered me ready stuffed for 25s I would not give it. He was the size of a Guinea pig, a head like a Fox furnished with very strong teeth his legs bare and long & also his arms, both furnished with strong claws his wings when extended about two feet & a half his head covered with red and his body with brown hair short & smooth in all other respects he is fitted up like a common bat. There is also a Tortoise which I have not seen & a Flying Mouse. Having done for the present with the inferior classes of Zoology I shall advert to the superior a race infinitely more dangerous than all the rest united. If you cannot discover who it is I allude to I must say at once that it is the convict population. The barbarous murders constantly committed exceed anything you can well imagine; in my letter to Fanny I gave an account of the proceedings of a man named Commerford. Since that occurred I have seen in the papers the trial of a butcher for killing his master, masters wife & child (stop I am wrong there) the butcher killed only his master; having committed the deed he walked coolly out of the house wiping the knife on his hand from which he allowed the blood to trickle into his mouth thanking God at the same time that he had the good appetite to relish "flash Hoskins" hearts blood. Another man murdered his master and three other persons, a fourth his master, & the instances of their murdering each other are without number. A great deal of this may be attributed to the quantity of spirits consumed Rum is their only drink when they can procure it & this in spite of the prohibition to Publicans to sell it to Prisoners of the crown, is too often the case. Do not suppose from this that drinking is confined to the convicts the small settlers come into the towns for what they call a "spree" they bring in a horse or whatever they have to sell if a horse get perhaps 25 or 30 £ for him then go to a public house and never stir out of it untill every farthing is gone sometimes it lasts for a week or fortnight if so they are drunk the whole time. Now my fair Sister cover your face with blushes I am going to expose the vices of the frail sex Imprimis. If it were possible the women are more addicted to the bottle than the men the only thing I can say in their favour is that they have not often any concern in greater crimes than stealing, assaults and perjury; go out into the streets at what time you will & I will ensure your meeting with plenty of women rolling about or elegantly reclining in the gutter. All women who

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are sent out as prisoners go to a kind of barrack at Paramatta called the Factory those of good conduct are assigned as servants to those in want. I should tell you that in the factory there are three classes the first consists of those who are unassigned but whose conduct is good and also of those who having been assigned are returned to Government for trivial offences; the 2nd & third classes are those who are for punishment of different degrees. Out of 578 at present confined in the factory not one is assignable & upwards of 70 employed in the delicate employment of nursing children of whom the other parent is either unknown or known only to themselves. Referring again to the males I record an outrage of singular audacity. One of our Serjeants was travelling with a sum of money the pay of the detachment to which he belonged when he was suddenly siezed by a party with Crape over their faces who robbed, beat, & then threw him over a bridge however the fellows are all taken & will be hanged soon. In concluding this calender of vice I shall add a few observations of my own and then make a few laws. Convicts are assigned to improper persons wives to husbands and vice versa also to persons of indifferent character; this is of course a great abuse and ought to be done away with. Another cause of their misbehaviour is the 19 little attention paid in most cases to the assigned servant by the master the man does his work & then goes to his hut to drink or pass the night as he pleases. The very inefficient state of the constabulary force composed as it is for the most part of Ticket of leave prisoners and last not least the number of Public houses many of the worst description and open at all hours of the night. I have omitted one real cause which must hold a high rank. The nonenforcement of the law prohibiting Crown prisoners unless holding a ticket of leave from possessing property of any description either directly or indirectly & also I add the convict being dressed as pleases the master. Now as some precaution I would observe that the strictest attention should be paid in the assignment of servants & that none should be made without first ascertaining that there was no connection or relationship between the parties. There is at present a law against furnishing a convict with spirits on the part of the Publican under a penalty of five pounds (of course any other person would be liable to an action for selling spirits without a licence). I would increase the penalty to 20£ the first offence 40£ the second & 60£ the third and that a conviction in the latter case should incapacitate the vender from ever after holding a licence; and any convict found drunk should recieve 50 lashes and any convict found with spirits in his possession should recieve 25 lashes. All convicts should wear a certain dress to distinguish them from free men & to be found, except in that dress should entail a severe punishment on the convict & if with the knowledge of the master he should loose that servant. Should a convict take the bush

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March

transportation to an ironed gang or to a penal settlement for life ought to to be the punishment & if found armed he should forfeit his life. These regulations would I think be found efficient more especially that which regards the dress as that would ensure the convict being known at sight. The law with regard to the sale of spirits could hardly be enforced untill the constabulary is a better organized body than at present. I cannot help thinking that were these laws strictly adhered to that the men would be in better order and that crime would be much lessened. While laid up I recieved a delightful Packet of Letters and papers from home at first I could not think what they could be & was almost afraid to open it for fear it should be my Courts Martial expences returned when I at length summoned up courage my joy exceeded all bounds the only difficulty was which to read first. I finished & despatched a letter to England in reply the same day. On another day Cobcroft brought me in a Platypus as the Ornithorynchus Paradoxus is vulgarly called I got it stuffed to send home. These were two great events to happen in a few days. Reading Byron the library of useful knowledge some Novels from the regimental library & other books with writing letters passed the time untill the ninth of March by which day I was well enough to be out again on my original footing I had been at my duty since Monday the 5th . On the Wednesday I was a member of a Court Martial which assembled here & which continued sitting untill Saturday. On Friday evening I went out to try a Pup at the Quail he proved to be no good atall. As I was going out I met Hayes who had been frightened home by the snakes, he had seen two one in some Indian corn and another in some high grass the latter flew at his dog & was shot; it was from 6 to 7 feet long and as thick as a mans arm. I went over the same ground but did not see any.

Sunday 11th Did Orderly duty for one of the other Officers who was on leave. After a run of pleasant weather for at least a fortnight the glass rose from an average of 76° or 78° to 88°. Sat in doors till the evening after returning from Church. After dinner went out for a walk it was a beautiful Moonlight night. While on the subject of Moonlight nights I shall mention that the night before two of our Officers were fired at in the town the bullet whistled close by them; they searched for the offender but could not find him. Of late the most gross insults have been offered to the Military by some Currency men 20 you will hear more of it in another days log. I will only add here that anything with a red coat on is hated by the generality of these people most of whom are insubordinate blackguards.

Monday 12th Orderly on my own account. Five degrees hotter today

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than yesterday. It is now twelve oclock I am sitting writing sans coat & intend to go out for a sail if the fine breeze now blowing continues if it should not & a thunder storm does not follow the heat I shall shoot pigeons in the evening I hear there are plenty along the Sydney road. The wind not favouring I went out shooting but hearing that ducks were about I went after them in preference to pigeons; I was not fortunate enough to fall in with them but returning I fell in with a Pelican which after much difficulty I got a shot at & killed this with one Quail constituted my days sport. The Pelican was very heavy I had carried him some distance when I fell in with a cart & agreed with the driver who was going to Windsor to bring it in next Morning. I got home at nine oclock very tired & went to bed almost immediately.

13th The night had been so intolerably hot that sleep was impossible; in the morning after six it cooled a little & I slept late. Between nine & ten my bird arrived & went immediately to be stuffed. After Parade I went to hear a case of assault preferred against divers individuals by Major Bunbury & others one was bound over to answer the charge at the sessions & another bound over to keep the peace. In the evening I went out & shot six flying foxes. My bird came home during the day. At eleven went to bed.

14th Up soon after seven sent foxes to be stuffed read Arnotts Physics, 21 went out fishing. Foxes came home. Got leave to go to Sydney. Wrote Journal. Went to bed.

15th Was called at 1/2 past one; at two got on the Mail for Sydney where I arrived at nine. Breakfasted with Major Nunn & afterwards took a letter to Capt Best 50th Regt who had just come up from Norfolk Island. 22 Met and was introduced to him on the Parade; he invited me to stay with him during my sojourn in Sydney & sent his servant for my Portmanteau while we adjourned to his habitation. For your information and amusement I will give a more elaborate account of our first recontre. I was looking out of Major Nunns windows when I spied a Spaniel of peculiar breed of which I knew there were only two in the colony one a pup at Windsor and its father which belonged to the gallant Captain. I watched this dog which was shortly joined by a black spaniel I still followed their motions & presently had the pleasure of seeing them lie down by the side of another black spaniel behind a very tall and portly

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figure the upper works of which were those of Mrs Godsal enlarged and manified I sallied out to join the party of which this Gigantic figure appeared to be the focus & on reaching it one of my former acquaintances looking at the Brobdinag & then me effected an introduction in these words Best, Best, Shake Paw was made letter delivered & we went to his room where I found two cats, one dog and in the yard at the back three more dogs, a sheep, a quantity of poultry and some Norfolk Island pigeons. In the afternoon I had a general inspection of his effects & such an assemblage I had never seen, stuffed birds, Whales teeth & other curiosities, all kinds of Nic knacks made from the different woods of the Island, walking sticks, chairs, stone butter coolers, wine coolers, drip stones and a capital sofa, most of which were made of government materials & all by the convicts. I may also add boots & shoes, hats and kegs of Arrow root. A walk followed this survey to prepare us for mess I was very sleepy and went to bed early.

16th About seven the Captain awakened me to go and bathe all the house dogs and half those of the Garrison with two other officers went with us I enjoyed the recreation of holding on by the tail of a large Newfoundland dog while he swam after various logs of wood thrown in for him & should imagine it vastly superior to Sir H. Davys kite inasmuch as I could enjoy the pleasure of cuffing him if he did not swim fast enough which the other great man could not do. As soon as etiquette would permit we called on Sir G. Gipps who was not at home afterwards on Mr McLeay and on the Colonial Secretary both of whom were out. I then called on Colonel Snodgrass 23 & procured leave of absence untill Monday. At six we dined in order to be in time for St Patricks ball (seven is the usual hour). Behold me at nine oclock stepping into a carriage (procured by Best by the delicate process of presenting a gentlemans coachman with half a crown) in full tog, new sash, & epaulettes which had only appeared before royalty; five minutes brought us to the ball room which was a new theatre prepared for the occasion the music consisting of a quadrille band of the 50th, and the whole band of the 28th being stationed in the upper boxes. The Governor, his Lady & Suite having arrived dancing began on the part of the assembled five hundred I was soon introduced to a very pretty girl & just in the act of carrying her off when down came a cursed Jubilee lamp oil & all on the top of my head emptying its contents all over me (who ever heard of hanging such a thing up in a ball room) I was obliged to leave my fair one in order to purify which I effected after a manner & returned in full humour for abusing everything I am at present in the same state of mind so here goes. The company was in many cases of a very low description shop

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keepers & their families, the dancing ill regulated, a decided want of an M. C. the supper execrable and the music also, both bands being beastly drunk. Sir G. G. retired early & without affording me the opportunity of getting presented. We did not remain very late there was none of that fun which Tom Cringle describes in his quality ball & no other attraction in fact I was heartily sick of and thoroughly disgusted with the first Australian ball I witnessed.

17th A Grand Regatta had been announced in honor of St Patrick I went to see it could not find out which were the boats contending for the prize, the whole affair was worthy of the ball its forerunner. After I had gone away heard that one of the boats upset & drowned every body in it, a whole load. Walked into the country with Nunn & Best. Dined out & went to bed at twelve.

18th Sunday. Got up late breakfast at ten. Saw the troops march to church while at breakfast. In the afternoon strolled about with my yesterdays companions passed the evening quietly at home.

19th Up early. Went out bought a saddle a bridle & some tea &c before breakfast. Met Major Bunbury (who had come down to Sydney on bussiness) after breakfast. At four took leave of Best who promissed to come & see me & arrived at Windsor at ten, dining at the 28th mess at Paramatta by the way. Found my servant in hospital with bad eyes did as well as I could without him & went to bed.

20th Up at seven. Orderly officer. After I had seen the dinners went out shooting with Major Bunbury and Hayes; the latter killed 3 1/2 brace of Quail I kill 2 1/2 and the Major none. We got home in time for dinner & I passed the evening with the Major discourseing on various topics.

21st Orderly again. In the afternoon rode the Majors colt for him for a couple of hours. My servant came out of hospital quite well. The evening was intensely hot & close I sat reading late & at last went to bed on the floor where I had my Matrass laid the stretcher of my bed having broken down.

22nd Orderly again. At one went out fishing stayed late not doing much. I was obliged today to throw away one of my flying squirrels the moth had eaten it so much I am in fear that my other squirrel will share the same fate as also the two Opossums. About eleven I again went to bed on the floor where the Mosquitoes worried me cruelly while the mice & cockroaches ran races all over me & my bed; at last I got to sleep.

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23rd I had not been up long when the Major came & congratulated me I asked what for when he said th[at] one of our Lieutenants had sent in his papers and that I being next for purchase he had hastened with the good news. 24 After Parade I went out with my rod and line to try my luck again I also took some strong lines for Eels. I caught a good dish of fish but no Eels the latter contrived to nibble or suck off the baits without getting hooked. I got back in time for mess. Spent the evening with the Major & went early to bed.

24th & 25th Sunday. The rain which had been gathering over the Mountains commenced falling heavily on Saturday morning & did not cease untill Sunday night. Nothing could be done out of doors. I wrote my journal & part of a letter to my father & read different works especially a work I have before mentioned Arnotts Physics & a work on New South Wales & Van Diemans Land in which even I who have been so short a time in the country could detect the most glaring misrepresentations to use the most lenient expression. By the way On dit that Norfolk Island and Swan river 25 Detachments are to be relieved the 21st Regt now at Hobart Town are instructed to be prepared to move on to India as soon as a sufficient number of the 51st shall have arrived which will be very shortly the 50th being next for India will then be concentrated and we shall have to furnish one or both of the abovementioned stations, most probably Norfolk Island: & these changes are the more consequence to me as I am the only Sub at present disposable & Major Bunbury the only Field Officer; however a very short time will let us into all the secrets of the Brigade office.

26th After the heavy rains of the last two days the Morning looked a little clearer. About ten the sky again wore a threatening appearance but it passed off & the sun shone brightly untill past four when a heavy squall came up I was out with Gammie 26 looking at a house he proposed taking so we escaped a ducking. The Storm having passed away a beautiful evening succeeded & having had no exercise to speak of during the day I walked into the country carrying for my defence in case any of the Currency lads should wish to Knock me on the head as they did our Drum Major a few evenings since a short Whaling Iron a very nice little tool in such cases I returned soon after ten and by eleven was in bed & asleep.

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27th Orderly Officer. My own breakfast having been sent to its destination I looked over my servants book & paid his bill & wages. At 1/2 past twelve I saw the mens dinners & went round the Sentries. Came in put on my shooting dress & went out for some Quail. As soon as I got to the ground the dog which had been hunting very diligently when I wished it to "keep at heel" popped its tail between its legs & ran home; being thus left to myself I found only one bird which I killed. I had some talk with an old man who I found destroying one of their favorite haunts by clearing it of a kind of weedy underwood or scrub, he told me that the Quail had paired & that he had found several nests with eggs I shall therefore give up shooting them for the season. Between six and seven a squall of wind with lightening came down from the mountains & blew in one of my windows; it lasted about half an hour. I took a walk after dinner with Gammie & returning read the Diary of a late Physician untill I was almost afraid to go to visit the Guard for fear of seeing a "blue dog". It was past twelve before I could pluck up courage I scampered along as quick as possible and had done all the duties required of me & was in bed by the time the Church clock struck one.

28th The duty has become easier for me two other subaulterns having arrived from outposts. The weather has become much cooler & winter is fast approaching ushered in by cloudy skies & heavy rains today it did not rain & the sky was clear & in truth if such was to be taken as the specimen of the climate of N. S. W. nothing could equal it. I sat writing most of the morning with my window open a delightful breeze blowing through the room strongly perfumed by an orange tree, which is in full blossom just under my window. I certainly never felt a more delightful day even in England. After I had written my journal I prepared some tackle for immediate use. I had long contemplated cross fishing as likely to be exceedingly productive nor was I mistaken catching today by that method five fine Perch which made a good & delicious dish for mess in addition to our usual fare for I returned just in time to have them done for dinner. The Night being as fine as the day I walked about untill ten strolling along the river's bank by this time I was tired so I came home & went to bed.

29th What a contrast to yesterday I percieve that weather breeders are known here for when my servant called me at seven it was raining cats & dogs & blowing great guns. The rain ceased for four or five hours in the afternoon and during this time I again tried the cross fishing with indifferent success only taking two perch one of which was about a pound weight I attribute this want of sport to the violence of the wind which blew at times in hurricane gusts. There are at present in season a large saltwater Cray fish as large or larger than a lobster & without claws they are very hard and without flavour but are nevertheless much sought

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after I suppose because they boil red they are the only substitute for the lobster, the real one with claws not being known. Oysters & Mushrooms also abound both of good quality. After dinner I took coffee with the Major & read the Diary of a late Physician finishing the first volume I then took up Arnotts Physics for an hour before retiring for the night.

30th More storms & squalls. My Servant called me early telling me that I was in orders for "the day" I got up to see the meat & breakfasts & was on the way to the Barracks when I met the Officer who ought to have been in orders doing the duty I therefore returned to my room. Having been bored by the mice I turned to & made four mouse traps these and mending the Majors fishing rod which had been broken in three places passed away the forenoon. In the evening I played Quoits & assisted to raise the boat which had again been swamped by the rain & sunk, it was hardly up when the dinner horn sounded upon which I left my work to prepare for mess. My evening was passed as usual.

31st I was obliged to get up at five oclock to attend the most disagreeable scene in a soldiers peaceable life a punishment parade. It is sufficient to say that three notoriously bad characters received respectively, two, two hundred, and one, one hundred lashes for most mutinous conduct. I was the orderly officer of the day had I not been on duty there would have been no escaping as on such occasions everybody attends & as it was I was of course doubly bound to be present. A wet stormy day again kept me in the house except when at my duty which it being the last day as well as the last Saturday of the month occupied me the greater part of the day. Late in the afternoon I went for a walk with Gammie & got a ducking. Did not leave the Mess room untill nine oclock the time for collecting the evening reports. At 1/2 past ten I visited the Guard & went to bed.

Sunday 1st April. In my two last days Journal I omitted registering two accidents which happened under my eyes 1st A horse was put into a cart to draw a load of wood but instead of using his powers as it was hoped he would he quietly laid down; he was taken out of the shafts & put leader here he would not draw & on the carter striking him with his whip he stood still & taking a deliberate aim planted one hoof in the mans throat & the other in his face; the man fell as if dead was carried into a public house & did not recover his senses in the least untill a quantity of blood had been taken from him. The poor fellow was then carried home in a cart dreadfully disfigured, his teeth were lying in the road. 2nd . A Gentleman & his wife had been staying with the Clergyman of this place they had not gone a mile out of Windsor on their return home when the horse took fright at a hole in the road

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& leap'd off the causeway into the field below, a height of at least six feet. Strange to say the only one of the party I include the horse & gig who appeared much injured was the lady she was carried home on a shutter and laid on her bed. Gammie was called in & she being of a religious turn of mind immediately asked if she should die having examined & discovered that her only injury was a bruise on the hip he assured her she would not at which she expressed the deepest regret informed him how well she was prepared & how happy she was before he told her of the probabillity of her remaining longer in this life & finally preached him a long sermon. Next day (Sunday) our Pastor lectured us on the patience of Job & assured us how grateful his friends were not for their escape but for being upset, assuring us that they would have been much happier if half killed for then they would have had hopes of a better birth in heaven than they could at present expect. You may see by this that cant has found its way from the other end of the world even to N. S. W. We came home from church in a heavy rain which did not cease all the evening.

2nd Orderly officer. Saw the animals get their first feed at 1/2 past seven. All the servants attended Parade for not going to Church so that I had a fine squad to practise upon. Being a rainy day after I had recieved my pay, made up my monthly account and paid my mess bill I sat writing my journal till four I then walked untill seven.

My Journal concludes rather abruptly here & is not taken up again untill the eleventh up to which date the weather had been very wet and stormy. I went out fishing once or twice but on only one day caught anything worth carrying home. On Sunday the 6th our Adjutant was thrown from his horse & sustained a compound fracture of the leg & also had his ancle put out. One or two ships from England arrived without bringing me any letters. This is a summary of all that occurred untill the morning of the

11th I must again retrogade a little to put you on the right road. The day before, I met my friend Cobcroft in the town & of course inquired what he was doing in the sporting line, he informed me that all the Quail were gone and that no Ducks had arrived but that if we would make a party he would take us where we should have fine sport. This was soon done. Hayes, Wyatt & myself being the only ones mad enough to ride ten miles in a cart on such a wild goose (read, fowl) chase, started at Seven oclock the next morning the 11th (well clothed in pea jackets over our shooting coats, for of course as a party of pleasure had been made it chose to rain cats & dogs) in a cart well furnished with Prog, straw & everything that could make us comfortable besides our dogs & drawn by

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a horse warranted to go five miles an hour. We call at Cobcrofts farm which was about 4 miles on our road & took him up. The road or rather track for the next Six miles was most execrable through deep sand & over logs & stones which would have broken any other vehicle to atoms lay through the thick bush where at times there was only just room to pass between the trees. An hour and a half completed our journey bringing us to a farm house where having turned out our horse & taken off our wet coats we paid our devoirs to the contents of the basket we had brought with us with great gusto it being the breakfast of all. Our hunger appeased we took a boat & beat both banks of the river for about 1/2 a mile without finding anything we then landed on the opposite bank & proceeded to a large Lagoon. Here we found Ducks and redbill in great numbers but so wild were they that although we ran about in the water up to our middles the rushes being often high above our heads, only two redbills were bagged two others fell but could not be found; for my part I only had four shots not one of which was within eighty yards so that although I heard the shot rattle on their feathers I came home with an empty bag. The Ducks all went off without giving us a chance. At four we gave over wading returned to the farm & once more applied to the basket. We then tried another & smaller Lagoon without success for I cannot call shooting a few Parrots doing anything. The sun getting very low was the signal for a retreat we packed up our empty dishes & bottles got everything but ourselves into the cart not considering it safe to ride in our wet clothes. A seven mile walk rendered them tolerably dry the cart could then go quicker than we so in we got rattled along over the three remaining miles arriving at home by 1/2 past eight quite knocked up. I put my feet in hot water drank a glass of scalding punch of tolerable strength got into bed & fell asleep. Now although we did not realize our expectations of returning with plenty of wild Fowl yet we all agreed that we had had a very amusing day, the carting, rowing, wading, drenching were all made subjects of mirth and amusement every ones spirits & good humour lasted through the day, the scenery was wild & beautiful, & one & all agreed to be parties in a similar excursion as soon as convenient.

12th My first thought in the morning after a sound nights sleep was to enquire what aches & pains might have been produced by yesterdays cold bath I jumped out of bed twisted about in all sorts of attitudes and found none. I soon saw Hayes who had taken the same precautions as myself & with as good effect. I read & wrote the greater part of the day which was tolerably fine raining now and then. After mess I took some coffee with Major Bunbury & then went to bed.

13 Good Friday. Orderly Officer. Up at seven, Church parade after breakfast. Mem. Hot Cross Buns have found their way out here along

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with other things. After Church I took a long walk into the bush returning just before dinner. In the evening read some trash entitled the New Forest by the Author of Brambletye House, 27 visited the Guard soon after ten & went to bed.

14th I took Orderly duty today for the Officer of the day. Saturday is always employed much in the same manner as there are two Parades to attend one at 1/2 past 12 and the other at four which latter is followed by a walk untill dinner time & in the present instance that meal was followed by another ramble after nine, the night being fine and Moonlight: at eleven I returned visited the Guard and Prison sentry and then went to bed.

Sunday 15th My servant brought me the first thing two letters one of which I immediately recognized to be from Mr Crawfurd the other looked very like a long letter from home but on opening it I discovered that it was from Kelson. Mr Crawfurds was as kind as ever informing me that Capt Austin (51st) the bearer had also brough[t] letters of introduction for me to several persons of weight in the Colony. Returning from Church wrote my journal & read then went out for a walk. I returned at 1/2 past six dressed for mess which I left early, retiring to my room where I read the rest of the evening.

The first manuscript volume of my journal is now complete, it remains to read it over & to correct such errors as may strike me which are doubtless many but in extenuation of which I plead the circumstances under which it has been written; if in the enjoyment of overflowing spirits; I wrote my journal; if any petty occurrence had reduced them below their natural level still it was & is a resource I always could turn to with a certain degree of pleasure. During the calms & storms experienced in my voyage from my native land to this country & immediately after the loss of a shipmate or when in a state of agreable excitement from any of the little incidents I have recorded, my log has been written as a means of registering my thoughts & feelings & making them known to those dear to me. Since my arrival in Terra Australis I have not had such excuses to plead at least not to such an extent but yet I think sufficient to ensure me the indulgence of a beloved family. Query. Is not this rather a patriarchal expression. Having thus made a lame apology for the errors of all kinds to be found in this collection of trash I shall only add that I have at least redeemed my

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promiss of keeping a journal from the time of my embarkation & that if it is the means of affording the slightest information or amusement to its readers I shall be amply repaid for the time & trouble I have spent upon it. I dedicate these my scribblings to my beloved Sister R. E. B. Best requesting that they may be considered sacred from the world in general & preserved untill demanded in person by

A. D. W. Best
the Author

What so proper as a Wallabi Hunt to commence a journal in N. S. W. Here goes

On the 18th April 1838 Messrs Wyatt, Hawkins, Gammie, Hayes & Best took horse at seven A. M. each carrying a Double gun & proceeded to Belmont the seat of T Bell Esqre distant nearly ten miles from Windsor. On arriving our horses were put up & cared for while we did ample justice to a capital breakfast provided by our entertainer. At ten we sallied forth to the chase passing by a cave where a noted Bushranger Armstrong by name had dwelt a considerable time & near which he was at last shot by one of the Mounted Police. Never was a place better adapted for concealment. You descend into an old water course some twenty feet deep & well covered with scrub when about half way down pass along under an overhanging rock (which nearly meets the opposite side) for a few yards & you come to a small cave apparently cut out of the solid rock. So completely was its situation hid that although he was sought for many months by the Police & Constables & known to live about there his retreat was never discovered untill he revealed its situation after recieving his death wound. Leaving the cave we walked on about three miles to a very thick scrub where there were plenty of Wallabi and Bush Kangaroo, this we entered & very soon our dog began to give tongue. I was on one side of a Gully in the Scrub the rest of the Party augmented by Mr Bell & a Mr Jolliffe on the other. When about half way through the scrub one of the Party called to me to look out I cocked my gun & not twenty yards from me a line Kangaroo came skipping by but the dog by some ill luck contrived to stick so close to it not being a yard off and between me and the Kangaroo that I was afraid to fire having a charge of heavy shot in both barrels. This was the only chance I had during the day of getting a shot several were fired by the others but without effect. All this occurred in the first scrub we beat. Before proceeding to a second we stopped at a setlers bark hut & refreshed ourselves from the contents of a basket we had provided. Hawkins and Gammie had both got enough of it in the first scrub & declined entering

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a second the rest were not so easily daunted but were not fortunate enough to have their exertions rewarded though the tracts of our game were numerous. This second Scrub was by far the most fatigueing of the two a kind of vine (not grape) ran from tree to tree catching one round the neck & body and occasionally tripping one up I am sure that at one spot I was twenty minutes forcing my way through as many yards & finally emerged scratched all to pieces. It was proposed to work a third but the majority were against it & we returned to Belmont about five, dined & started for home soon after eight reaching Windsor at a quarter to eleven. Upwards of a month elapsed without affording anything the description of which could entertain. It is true that during this time Windsor Quarter Sessions came on & with them dinners at Mess, and parties in the country given in return, but a detail of the turkies & geese devoured & bottles of wine consumed with what the young ladies said & the old ladies thought would not be very edifying so I shall pass on to the twenty third.

23rd of May. The Governor had announced his intention of holding a Levee on the 24th in honor of her Majestys birthday & had also sent out cards of invitation for a grand Ball to be holden a[t] Government House on the evening of the same day. The Colonel had given leave to all who asked & being of that number I travelled by the coach down to Sydney leaving Windsor at 1/2 past two & reaching Sydney about eight. I slept that night at Captain Bests on his sofa.

24th I had for some days suffered from a severe cold which was in fact a perfect Influenza when I awakened I could hardly speak & my head ached so that I could not hold it up. In the course of the forenoon I got rather better & by remaining quiet instead of going to the review of the 28th & 50th Regiments I screwed up courage to go to the Levee which was most numerously & respectably attended; those who had attended the Levees of former governors declared that they had never seen any at all equal to it either in numbers or respectabillity. Sir G. Gipps recieved his visitors in exceedingly good style & looked every inch of him the Governor. He was dress[ed] in a splendid blue uniform what it was I do not know. The ball room was opened at nine I was there by half past even then the crowd was great & fresh arrivals kept flocking in untill past eleven. The band of the 50th furnished the Quadrille band while that of the 28th was to have performed between the dances; this latter arrangement did not take place owing (I have since been told but do not vouch for the truth of the report) to their having been so drunk that it was found necessary to send them away at once. Sir G. & Lady Gipps recieved the company in the first room through a side door of which you passed into the ball room properly so called although dancing was

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carried on in each, two other rooms were devoted to Cards and a long corridor & a smaller room to the accomodation of those whose circumstances required a tete a tete; the supper which was admirable was laid out in two rooms communicating by folding doors upstairs. Sir G. was in his Lord Lieutenants uniform above mentioned his Lady elegantly dressed in white satin. Among the ladies some very pretty faces and figures were to be seen & the style of dress was in most cases good a few had imagined the waist to be the proper place for the top of a dress to fasten or in other words admired & imitated the costume of two Feejee chiefs (one of the Friendly Islands) who were invited to the ball & who attended in their national dress armed with their war clubs & naked to the waist. They were most singular looking beings with extraordinary heads of hair quite round on the top and standing at least 18 inches above their heads like an enormous mop of wool. One was a perfect giant but evidently an admirer of the fair sex he never failed in discovering a pretty foot & ancle. They were both copper colored. About twelve the first party went to supper Sir G. made a very good speech which I missed hearing being engaged waltzing with a Mrs Erskine a most beautiful & elegant Devonshire woman very accomplished & decidedly the belle of the room. I afterwards handed her to supper & finally to her carriage. I danced & waltzed incessantly untill five oclock when the party broke up. All the arrangements were admirable & everything was first rate except the band which was as usual very indiferent I spent a most delightful evening & went to bed quite cured of head ache but as tired as a dog.

25th Having slept exceedingly sound on a shake down in the room of an old fellow collegian (a son of Major Wright who commanded the B. Company) now of the 50th (for Bests sofa had been previously engaged for the night) untill near ten oclock I got up & breakfasted. Strolling through the town I met a Mr Bell brother to the gentleman I have before spoken of who asked me if I would ride a horse up to Windsor for him I accepted his proposal gave directions to Bests servant concerning the carriage of my portmanteau & at five mounted the horse & proceeded to Paramatta where I slept at Mrs Walkers Dun Cow. At eight or half past I went to bed having seen the horse properly attended to.

26th A Quarter past seven found me in the saddle the morning like the preceeding evening was bitterly cold & the road quite hard with the frost. Without the use of whip or spur I was at Windsor by a quarter to ten quite pleased with Fling for so was my steed called he was the only horse I had seen in the colony that I coveted. I found myself in orders as Officer of the day & did the duties accordingly.

Sunday 27th In the afternoon Mr Bell arrived from Sydney in his carriage

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with his family he expressed himself much pleased with Flings appearance. In the course of the day I made what I considered a fair offer for the horse which Mr Bell refused assuring me that he would not sell him for a farthing under one hundred pounds this was a stopper on my attempts at horse dealing. In the evening I rode him out as it had not been convenient to Mr Bell to take him away I was not you may be sure averse to such an arrangement.

28th An Interregnum here occurs of very long standing.

August - In the first week of this month Capt Best and Lieut Campbell late 50th came up to Windsor to stay a week with me. By the way it was the last week of July & not the first in August. However a week they did spend with me and a merry time we made of it. A day after their arrival Campbells servant came up with a cart containing three Kangaroo dogs and a heap of spaniels. Quail Shooting, Kangarooing & Pic nics were kept up with unbounded vigour yet no Kangaroo were either shot or caught by the Dogs. Capt Best and our old Messman were soon sworn friends the Capt declaring that Wood was a trump & just fit for a Messman (being near six foot high & as many round with a round jovial happy face peering above his Butlers jacket) & that it did ones heart good to look at him for he was a sure sign that starvation was not the order of the day while Wood avowed his belief that the Big Capt was one of the properest gentlemen he had seen a long time. All this is necessary to be understood in order that you may rightly estimate the following account of a Pic nic which occurred on one of the days of the most memorable week. Capt Best was a great favorite at the house of Mr Cox of Hobartville whom I have often mentioned and in return for various civilities shewn the Gallant Capt. announced one fine morning his intention of giving a pic nic & having all the Hobartville & Windsor people at it: to this I had no objection & offered my services as caterer which were rejected the Capt declaring his intention of taking that important office on himself at the same time asking me "What I knew about Pic nics" & away he went to his friend Wood with whom he remained long in close debate. In due time a great packing of baskets took place & then the Said baskets took place in the cart which was immediately dispatched driven by Campbells servant to an appointed spot beyond Hobartville where the man was instructed to light fires and prepare. What? You shall hear! A numerous Cavalcade soon followed the cart composed of Capt Best, Mr & Mrs Wyatt, Campbell, Myself and some others which was increased on passing Hobartville by Mr & Mrs Cox three Miss Cox's Miss Du Moulin, the Governess and other ladies who I do not remember. Journeying on at length we came to the magic spot where the Cart not travelling as rapidly as we did had just arrived. We all dismounted tied up our horses to the trees & com-

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menced unloading the cart. First out Came a large pot of potatoes but we were miles from any water so the pot was no use. Next two Kegs one of which proved to contain the element we so much needed, the Other two gallons of strong Burton ale. The mighty baskets now had their turn. The first contained a large junk of salt Beef, part of a Fowl cut up, a piece of pickled Pork, an open Tart, some bread & cheese. The second Two plates, two Tumblers, two knives & frorks, two spoons and a large dish all most misteriously packed in paper and straw enough to burn a large house without other assistance. All our hopes were now centered on the third & last basket which was handed down with peculiar care, it was opened, when dreadful to relate its whole & sole contents were One dozen of Brandy. At this announcement the air was rent with peals of laughter. Our Ride & expectations had made us all hungry and the provisions such as they were soon disappeared but the salt meat made the Ladies thirsty & the Burton ale was very potent I do not mean to insinuate anything but I do not ever reccollect seeing Ladies Horses carry their Riders more cleverly over fallen trees or Ladies ride their Nags more gallantly at them. We all pulled up at Hobart Ville where a capital dinner made up for the Pic nic. Capt Bests delicate attentions in providing a sufficiency of brandy and ale for the Ladies was the theme of the evening & called forth the most unbounded applause. We danced till past Midnight and then those for Windsor Galloped home as fast as their Horses could carry them through a pouring rain. A couple of days after this memorable day my friends left me having first made me promise to go to Sydney as soon as possible. On the Third of August having received orders to hold myself in readiness to march on the following Friday for Norfolk Island I went to Sydney by the Mail getting in between seven and eight. I proceeded to Bests Quarters & there met Lieut Lugard R. E. to whom Best introduced me as the other "Poor Norfolk Island Devil" from this we naturally inferred that we were to be fellow passengers on board the Governor Phillip & forthwith became intimate. Lugard was living with Best so there was no room for me & I took up my abode in Campbells quarters. The first thing I did was to get my 24 hours leave increased a few days I then transacted some bussiness I had in hand after which I had naught to do but amuse myself & that I contrived with very little trouble untill the

8th It was now time to return to Windsor I therefore sent Campbells servant to hire me a good horse mounted him at twelve and at four was in Windsor. The man had executed his orders well for a right good horse it was. Having seen him well cared for I went bussily to work packing up & got everything ready for cording next morning. I then went to bed.

9th Finished my packing and attended parade & inspection of the

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Detacht which consisted of Lieut McDonald Enr Best Two Sergts and 28 Rank and File we were to march the next morning at three oclock to avoid the heat of the day. Parade over I rode to Hobartville to take leave and called also on such people of Windsor as had shewn me attention returning in time to see my things packed on the Commissariat Dray before going to Dinner. I slept on Tyssens bed who had just come down the country from Cox's River he was staying at a friends but I put up his bed when I took mine down.

10th My Servant called me at 1/2 past two the assembly sounded at three. Owing to some delay occasioned by McDonald who was to follow with his wife by the coach it was near four before the Detacht moved off. At seven I halted the men to Breakfast at a public House eleven miles from Windsor I had taken the precaution to ride on in advance & to have everything ready for them by the time they came up. In an hour I moved on again & reached Paramatta by 1/2 past ten with all the Detacht except one man who had gone lame I of course reported myself & took up my quarters with Lieut Beaumgartner of the 28th Regt. At four McDonald arrived & I handed over the command of the Detachment to him. I dined at the mess of the 28th & slept on a shakedown in Beaumgartners room my horse was at Mrs Walkers. I had arranged that McDonald should take the men on to Sydney in the steam boat & that I should meet him on the Wharf.

11th The steam boat leaves Paramatta at eight A.M. and I was not in the saddle till 1/2 past. One hour and thirty minutes trotted me to Sydney 16 miles of very indifferent road. I went direct to the Wharf fearing to be late without any cause for the boat was not expected for half an hour. I then rode to the Barracks sent my horse home & returned to the wharf where I waited 'till eleven before the boat came in sight. McDonald after marching the men into the garrison managed so cleverly that he got the men marched immediately on board the Brig instead of staying in Barracks untill wanted, moreover having provided a comfortable Lodging for himself and wife he wanted me to live in the Brig during the period of our stay in Sydney but that was too much, I told him so & my remonstrance had the desired effect. Great was the consternation of the Capt or Commander of the Brig when he found that his vessel was to be encumbered with from 40 to 50 men women & children & traps during his stowing cargo, refitting rigging and all the necessary repairs to be gone through after being at sea for two months, for the most part in heavy weather. McDonald marched us on board about noon and kindly informed me that he would tell Capt Best to send me my dinner on board I thanked him for his kindness, but preferring to dine with the Capt at Mess I did so & then went to bed on a shakedown in Campbells room.

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12th Sunday I was up by seven went down to the Brig where I found all right I then went home to breakfast. Went to the Bishops Church who preached a good sermon. In the Afternoon saw McDonald told him that the Detacht was correct. He asked me if I got a good dinner & bed I answered seldom better & we parted. He supposed I had never left the Vessel untill I called upon him to report. He did not come near the Brig I could say why but will not. Took a ride with Major Nunn & again spent my night on shore.

13th My parade on board the Brig, reporting, & running about collecting & ordering my stores for Norfolk Island occupied me all the Morning. In the Afternoon went on board the Brig where I found a Midshipman & gang from a Man of War busy in fitting & rigging her. He spoke in high terms of our fellows who he said were very civil & willing to lend a hand where ever they could. Leaving the wharf mounted Campbells Pony & rode out to Woolloomoolloo to call on the Bishop and Colonel Snodgrass; they were both from home. Returned in time to take a stroll with Capt Austin 51st Regt a friend of Mr Crawfurds & to dress for Mess where I sat late & afterwards went to the play.

14th to the 17th Knocking about in Sydney waiting for the vessel to sail. Introduced to Lieut Lugard R. E. who is to go down by this opportunity to superintend the erection of a New Jail and other works at Norfolk Island. In the Morning Mr & Mrs McDonald went on board and in the evening Lugard & I followed the brig was now out in the stream ready to go to sea the next morning.

18th Weighed anchor at seven. Very squally with rain and every appearance of dirty weather we went out as far as the heads took a peep and then popped back into Watsons Bay. This I was afterwards informed is a common manoevre with the Master of the Brig whose ignorance is only equalled by his vulgarity. At four we weighed again and stood out the wind right aft blowing a close reefed Topsail breeze the brig which is by no means an easy sea boat rolled & pitched very heavily. Lugard and I were both very sick yet laughing ready to split our sides as we lay in our berths at the scene which was enacting in the after Cabin. But here I must describe the relative situations of its occupants. Know then that McDonald was a man weighing from seventeen to eighteen stone and his lady was as some said his better half. Now although our friend was not in general remarkable for his acuteness he yet had the penetration to foresee the impossibillity of two such bodies reposing in a ships berth. His mind was now filled with apprehensions lest Mr McDonald should be thrown out of the berth and to prevent so dreadful an occurrence he got in himself leaving his poor lady to sleep on the deck as she best might

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but Mrs McDonald was not the right shape to repose quietly on the deck consequently when the Brig rolled she meandered from one side of the cabin to the other like a huge cask and her servant maid was ordered in to hold her still while she slept. In the night the weather became worse and the sea very heavy we heard the poor Lady expressing her fears that the Brig would be lost at the same time praying in a most fervent manner. Presently bang came a sea right over us the water rushed down the Skylight extinguishing the lamp this was succeeded by a loud squall and a female voice exclaiming Steward Steward send Capt Boyle. Capt Boyle came. O dear Capt Boyle is there any danger shall I have time to say my prayers before we go down shall I have a quarter of an hour shall I have 10 minutes shall I have five to make my peace; bang came a second sea O Lord let us pray. Now Mrs McDonald there is na danger do na be frightnd but their consolations were no use. All night long the Capt was sent for every quarter of an hour to the great amusement of Lugard & I who were laughing untill the tears ran down our cheeks. Our friend Mc was very sick and also poured forth his complaints occasionally stopping to curse his wife for rolling about or the Maid for not holding her fast he having appropriated to himself the only place in the Cabin where one could lie secure.

19th Weather in the morning very bad but moderated in the afternoon.

20th A fine day but a good deal of sea on.

21st Weather moderate sea gone down. We now had a proof of the good qualities of our Capt. He wished to take a sight so he brought his Chronometer out of his Cabin & put it on the Cuddy Table. It was Tuesday but he in face of everyone on board swore that it was Wednesday and worked his reckoning accordingly. Howes Island was pointed out when he declared it to be Bulls Pyramid nor would he be convinced untill he was shewn that rock on the Starboard bow Ah Weel said He I Like to be weel North or weel South of them but this time I have hit them just pop in the Middle the distance between the two must be at least thirty miles and they are in the direct course between Sydney and Norfolk Island. Really it is infamous to keep such a man in the command of a Govt vessel.

22nd A beautiful day set foretop Gallant studding sail. Our worthy Capt wished for his Latitude he stared at the sun for a long time and then sensibly observed Ah weel I am just a quarter of an hour too late. Fell in with a whaler the Capt came on board to ask our Latitude Time &c and seemed to be much disgusted. I may as well mention here that we had no Prisoners on board.

The weather continued fine. On the Evg of the 24th some of us began to

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suspect that we could not be far from the place of our destination Boyle however said that we should not see it for the next two or three days and we went to bed.

25th In the morning early awakened by the cry of "Land O!" Went on deck and could just distinguish something like a cloud right ahead which the mate said was Phillip Island. By eight oclock we saw it distinctly but we were not off the settlement at Norfolk Island untill past one. The approach to this Island from the sea is very striking the Peak of Phillip Island rising abruptly from the sea to the height of at least 1000 feet admirably contrasts its naked grandeur with the cliffs of Norfolk Island clothed with perpetual verdure to the waters Edge. The Settlement is situated on the only low piece of ground which appears from the Sea and with its white buildings has a very pleasing effect while innumerable lovely vallies run towards the hills in every direction. Norfolk Island as I viewed it from the deck of the Brig was the Loveliest spot I had ever seen.