1966 - Best, A. D. W. The Journal of Ensign Best, 1837-1843 (Ed. N. M. Taylor) - NORFOLK ISLAND, p 182-215

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NORFOLK ISLAND

Saturday August 25th The boat which we had seen putting off soon came alongside it contained an Officer, Non. Com. a Guard of two Privates, the Coxwain & crew of seven prisoners. The Officer boarded the brig enquired for the Mail & at the same time informed us that the Commandant sent permission for any Officer to land except the commander of the Guard. Lugard & myself had made up our minds not to go on shore that night so we declined taking advantage of the Majors Kindness. Shortly after the boat reached the shore it again put off the Coxwain bearing a special invitation from the Officers of the Mess to Lugard & myself to come on shore; this we could not refuse. I went to my cabin put on my uniform & got into the boat. Half an hours pulling brought us to the Bar (a reef running in front of the Settlement with a passage in it, large enough to admit a boat in fair weather) this we rapidly passed on the crest of a wave in Island term we had a run & then found ourselves on the beach where the Officers all of whom I was acquainted with were waiting to recieve us. The sun was now down we adjourned to the Mess room (with the exception of Lugard who had gone to Government house) and there spent a very pleasant evening.

26th Sunday. Got up at half past seven went to bathe. Church in a barrack room at ten. In the afternoon went out for a walk returned to dinner. Mr & Mrs McDonald came ashore during divine service & took up their quarters at Government house.

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Monday 27th Arose at seven bathed & breakfasted. The wind had changed the brig was obliged therefore to go round to the opposite side of the Island and lay off Cascade bay. All the Detachment except six & a Non Com. landed bringing with them my four dogs. Nettle I immediately chained up the bull pup staid with her the two others followed me to my room - or rather to the room of the officer with whom I put up I was very busy all day, doing nothing in the forenoon and after luncheon walking to the Government farm at Long Ridge to shoot Pigeons. There was a small party at mess we did not disperse till late.

28th Took my swim at the usual hour. The brig was still at Cascade so we made a party to walk out & see her. A beautiful walk it was through groves of Lime & Lemon trees in full fruit interspersed with Guava shrubs the distance was about three miles. Having satisfied ourselves that the brig was all right we returned home. Lugard, Needham & I dined with Major Anderson. 1 Needham an Ensign 50 & who I relieve was at Sandhurst with me.

29th After bathing I went to examine my baggage which I was told had come in. Found about half of it miserably knocked about. Visited the Garden and Stockyard which is to be mine both are very good. Called at Government house took a walk with Mrs Anderson & Mrs McDonald. Dined at six. Went to bed at two.

30th After bathing I returned to my quarters and prepared for breakfast. Following Dr Gradons advice I showed my foot to Dr Elson 2 who undertook its cure. Most of my baggage came in to-day I was in a sweet state of confusion all day for I found that a quantity of blacking and a bolt of Canvas had disappeared. I went to bed early.

31st 1st 2nd 3rd 4th 5th & 6th [September] I had not yet gained possession of my quarters. Had been forbidden by Elson to bathe or walk much; foot better. On the evening of the latter day we gave a dinner to Needham & the other officer who McDonald relieved. Major Anderson & everybody was present we kept it up untill four in the morning.

7th Spent the whole day writing letters to England & N. S. W. and in

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assisting Needham to pack up. It was a nasty wet disagreeable day blowing hard. The valuation of my stock was made today, ten guineas worth - for which sum I get nearly 100 head of fowls of all ages nine pigs ten turkeys eleven geese and six ducks.

8th Another damp day. Being put to it for exercise we turned out two rabbits early in the day one was caught in the afternoon & the other killed by the dogs, we then hunted a goat who gave us a splendid run you may laugh at these amusements but you would not if you had been on the Island with a S. W. wind & no inducement to take exercise which is absolutely necessary here where one grows immensely stout unless kept down by careful diet and violent exercise. N. B. We always follow the hounds on foot.

9th Sunday. Divine service being over we all went out for a walk with the dogs. Returning two of mine found a very large wild cat on the cliffs down which we pursued it with much difficulty; being very hard pressed it leaped down a place called the "blow hole" * swam across and climbed up the opposite side here it was again attacked by the dogs & again took refuge in a similar gulf where it seated itself on a projecting rock from this place of security we dislodged it with stones it then got up the rocks again & hid under a shelf. One of the soldiers tried to take it alive but it made so desperate a resisstance that he was obliged to knock it on the head. Nettle carried it home in her mouth. I cut off its head tail & paws they are now in my room. There is not a whole claw on any of the feet having all been destroyed by scrambling up the rocks. Blow Hole is a deep cleft in the cliffs (30 or 40 feet in depth) and about as wide by the way it must be more as it is a stones throw across. A ledge of rock covers the end next the cliffs forming a roof to the cavern and in this roof is a hole or chimney. When the wind is from the S. W. a tremendous sea rushes into the cavern and spouts to a great height through the hole it is a very beautiful sight and the roar may be heard far above the dashing of the surf. Blow Hole is used as a receptacle for all sorts of condemned tools which are thrown down in order to prevent their recovery effectually.

10th My Weeks duty commenced today consequently I could not leave the Settlement. During the time I was not employed on duty I assisted Needham to pack up his things and visited my stockyard. We dined at six. At ten I went my rounds and then to bed.

11th Early in the morning the Major sent for our letters. Needham went

* I need hardly say that there was no sea on this day yet puss was the first living animal known to cross Blow Hole.

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on board about half past twelve and at two the Brig fired her signal gun & made sail for Sydney. I regret Needhams loss much he was a delightful companion & the life of the party here we all felt dull without him and the mess party broke up early.

12th I took possession of my Quarters, they consist of two good sized rooms very lofty, opening into each other; in the sitting room is a fire place and large press or closet and in the bed room a small room about five feet wide and eight feet long nicely fitted up with shelves &c &c this is my store room there is also a fire place & a variety of tables and chairs. The walls are coloured a kind of light pink and are now adorned with various devices made of birds wings, sculls, feet and the remains of wild cats interspersed with guns and hooks. At night I slept in my own bed for the first time in Norfolk Island.

13th Fished in front of the Settlement caught a number of Guard fish & other small Fry. While officer of the week my duty is as follows. Mount the Guards at 10 A.M. See about 100 men drink Grog at 11 and eat dinner at 12 & visit the Guards by day & night. During my week I cannot leave the Settlement for Fear of a mutiny among the prisoners unless some Officer who does not want to go out volunteers to do my duty.

14th Read the Three Cutters and the Pirate Marriots last work, 3 that is, the last which has found its way here. Spent the afternoon in my Garden and Stockyard & so passed the day.

15th, 16th Still on duty could not leave the Settlement. Read Byron and called on the Ladies of the Island.

17th My foot is now so well that I can put on a shoe without a hole in it & walk about. After breakfast (weeks duty being over) went to Long Ridge with Lugard to shoot pigeons we killed a few and determined to come again with plenty of powder and shot the next day; we took a long walk and returned by six to dinner. Went to bed about ten.

18th Bathed at 8 oclock. After breakfast went down to the Bay to shoot plover & curlew we killed about ten brace and then came home to Luncheon. Lugard & I then went up to Longridge and shot 25 pigeons. Got home by six dined and went to bed at ten.

19th Bathed at eight. At one went out for a ride with Knowles the Major having lent us two horses. We first rode past Longridge and the Govern-

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ment Garden at Orange Vale to Ansons Bay passing through the most luxurient groves of Limes and Lemons borne down with Fruit and forming natural arches across the road. From Ansons bay we kept along the cliffs to Duncans 4 Bay and from thence to Cascade. Some of the Gullies we had to pass were so steep that the horses were in a tremble from the top to the bottom it would have been disagreable if either of them had fetched away as the sea was just underneath to recieve us after a fall from 50 to 500 feet. Leaving Cascade we steered straight for the Settlement where we arrived at sundown having round [ed] two thirds of the Island a distance of eighteen miles.

20th Bathed at eight there was a good deal of swell in the Bay. Mrs Anderson gave us a Pic nic in Orange vale, we left the Settlement at half past twelve. The Gardens are truly beautiful situated in a Gully with a small stream running through it. Here in the space of a few acres you may see the English Oak the N. I. Pine, Coffee, Bananas, Loquats, Guavas, Peaches, Strawberries, Pine apples, Melons, the Cabbage Palm, the different Fern trees in all their beautiful shapes and every kind of vegetable I know of except yams. After walking about the Gardens we found a tent spread under the Oak covering a table loaded with the different productions of all parts of the world. The cloth being removed we drank success to the Oak and other patriotic & loyal toasts. The Fiddler struck up and we danced on the green untill dark. Coffee was produced and we returned to Government House where we amused ourselves untill late in the morning of

21st Got up at seven, bathed at eight and after breakfast went out with Hill (an Ensign of the 50th) to shoot Lowries 5 we went along the Settlement to Church yard Gully passed through it along the bottom to the Balls Bay road where we went into the bush we shot five or six and returned with our game home.

22nd Got up at six to skin my birds, found them all too much shot about the body so cut off the wings and tail at eight bathed. Resumed my curing after breakfast till the afternoon, wrote my journal, dined, went to bed at ten.

23rd Sunday Took my usual bathe at eight & went to Church at ten. Walked to Balls bay and North East Point. Returned to dinner at six quite done up.

24th Second week off duty. Major Anderson sent in invite to us [sic] to

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make a party for fishing and Phillip Island. Lugard, Knowles, Hill and myself were those who went leaving Capt Gunton and McDonald to take care of the Island. It was a calm day but no fish were to be caught we therefore pulled on for Phillip and landed, the Major remaining in the boat & returning to the fishing ground. I shall defer giving a description of Phillip Island untill I have spent a week there which we intend doing when the season is more advanced for the present I only add that we had a glorious scramble up part of the Cliff where two of the party stuck and were pulled up by the others. Hill was first, a prisoner to show us the way came next then Knowles and Lugard I was last on the list and good exercise I had pushing Lugard up with the but of my gun. I found being last not likely to be wholesome as those in front rolled down great stones & therefore took the first opportunity of passing the others arriving safe at the top of the cliff. We shot about ten couple of rabbits & saw plenty of tracks of Pigs and Goats but not the substance & returned to dinner, eat very heartily, got into the boat to return. Since the morning a good deal of sea had got up & crossing the Bar we got a tremendous run the boat being slew'd completely round and the sea breaking over the boat I was drenched to the skin. Coming over I had expressed my wish of having a good run, the Major hoped we should have no such thing (I wanted to see what a run was like) and the opinion of all was that the coxwain who is a daring seaman waited for a heavy sea in order to give me a specimen of what a good run was; if so he got more than he bargained for. In the Evening we sat up untill late talking over our excursion.

25th Was a great day of employment to us bachelors of Norfolk Island. We purposed giving a ball in the mess room the following day & determined to do it in a style hitherto unknown. A great quantity of evergreens were brought in an[d] disposed round the room so as to make it resemble a shady bower. Over the Orchestra was a transparency expressing our welcome to our guests. The supper room was disposed as an armoury & a transparency over the door inscribed with the words 'Eat drink & be merry'. We dined in my sitting room & broke up between ten & eleven.

26th Arose early, bathed & rendered what assistance I could to the committee of management; as soon as my services were dispensed with I went out shooting returning at seven P.M. my sport was a wild cat. At nine the Company began to assemble and as ushered into the ball room expressed great satisfaction with the grace & beauty of its appearance. How could it be otherwise when the N. I. Pine the Grass tree and Cabbage Palm not to mention the Fern trees and others of less note all contributed their exquisite foliage to its adornment? Dancing was kept up till midnight when supper was announced. The supper room afforded quite as much gratification to our guests as the Ballroom; it was fitted up as an armoury

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as I have before mentioned. A Table in the form of T occupied the centre & one end of the room bearing on it all the Luxuries of N. I. When eating had ceased several Toasts were proposed & songs sung. Dancing was then resumed untill past five when the party broke up.

27th At eight got up and bathed. At one went to Governt House to accompany Mrs Anderson to a Pic Nic at Cascade. We had hardly begun our dinner when a heavy shower came on & obliged us to return while walking down a little hill which the rain had rendered slippery Mrs Anderson (who considers herself too good a cliffer to require assistance) made a slip & fell backwards before I could save her fortunately she had trousers on or there would have been a great expose. I had once or twice told her to make more use of my arm (which at that time she merely held pro forma) or she would fall to which she answered that she could go without assistance anywhere I could the words were not out of her mouth when down she went. Soon after eight I went to bed.

28th After nearly twelve hours sleep got up & bathed. After breakfast we all went down to see the Bar which was very heavy. When tired of watching we shot Plover in Emily Bay we only killed a very few & then returned to dinner. In the evening I read for two or three hours before going to bed.

29th Got up at 1/2 past five. Bathed & went to Longridge to breakfast with McLean. 6 At ten we started with our four dogs to hunt wild cats (you must know that the reason I am so inveterate against them is that they destroy Quail & we intend introducing them again it was tried once but the cats soon cleared them off). We went by the new cleared ground & Wrights bridge without finding any sport. While above McLeods fishing ground we heard what we thought were shots in the direction of the sea & to our great surprize there was an enormous whale with the Thrashers 7 banging away at him and after every blow which we could distinctly see a report like a Musquet followed. Leaving this singular scene we steered for Longridge where we arrived about 1/2 past twelve took some luncheon and then started for Mount Pit. In due time we reached the top & descended by Barney Duffys Gully where the dogs killed a cat. From Barney Duffy we crossed Major Andersons farm to Orange Vale where we found Miss Anderson & the other children with their Governess Miss Armstrong. At five we returned to Longridge where I shot another cat. I got home at

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seven found that dinner was over & not being hungry took a Glass of grog read till ten & went to bed.

Sunday 30th After church I walked to Longridge with Mrs Gunton Mrs Ellson the Captain & the Doctor. Dined at six, went to bed at ten.

October 1st , 2nd , 3rd , 4th On these three days I bathed as usual at eight oclock but after breakfast I assisted Lugard in surveying the Settlement. We worked till five then amused ourselves untill dinner time after which we adjourned to our rooms.

5th Morning as usual. About twelve went to Longridge to hunt Cats and shoot pigeons I had not much sport untill the evening when I came on two half grown cats & killed one. Shortly after one of the dogs gave tongue, we followed (McLean had joined me) and soon came to a tree in which a very large cat had taken refuge as soon as it saw us it tried to escape I therefore shot it. On reaching home I measured the beast it was 32 inches long & 13 high. I had now killed four on our intended Quail ground one which I have not mentioned I killed with my rifle after surveying on Wednesday. At eight I dressed for the Ladies ball Mrs McDonald Mrs Gunton & Mrs Ellson giving one to us in return for ours. The room they chose was one of the wards of the new hospital which had not yet been used. Everything being conducted much in the same style as at ours it is not necessary to go more into detail. We kept it up untill six when we took our third supper and departed on our way rejoicing.

6th I did not get up untill ten bathed & went out for a walk to shake off the effects of the previous nights exertions. I took my gun with me & killed a few pigeons returned between six and seven found some of the party again dancing. Went to dinner and immediately after to bed.

Sunday 7th After Church took my cat skins up to Longridge to get them tanned walked to McLeods fishing ground and so on nearly to the Officers road. Read in the evening.

8th, 9th As we proposed opening the Cricket season on the 10th with a match between the two regiments I devoted these two days to getting the ground into some sort of order & practising. The ground was in a wretched state cut up by carts & grown over by weeds. This work, my garden & stockyard with my bathe in the morning and evenings read, left me most anxious for bedtime which I make 10 oclock.

10th There was a great excitement; in the Barracks men rushing violently about & betting figs of Tobacco on the result of the game, on the cricket

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ground a pitching of wickets & tents. At 1/2 past twelve the playing commenced & lasted till five when the 50th were declared victorious this was a result I had expected few of our men having taken a bat in hand since leaving England while all our adversaries had had at least two years practice. At the mens request I challenged them to play again on that day fortnight. A Pig with a soaped tail was then turned loose & afforded great amusement after which the men ran races in sacks. All these diversions having ceased we returned the men with their Pig to their barracks & we to my room where dinner was ready; when this was disposed of we adjourned to the mess room and danced all night.

11th During the festivities of the previous night several bets were made with regard to the speed of various individuals twelve the following day being appointed the time when they should come off. There was great running and racing which lasted an hour & then a match at Quoits was played. The day concluded on my part with a long walk to keep the stiffness out of my bones. After dinner we made preparations for a day at Phillip Island for which we were to start early in the morning.

12th At five oclock I awakened & got up I was not long before I was ready but owing to some delays it was past six before we were assembled on the Beach where instead of finding the boat ready to recieve us as we had requested it was securely locked up in the boat shed, here was another delay & in attempting to remedy the carriage on which the boat is dragged to the water passed [over] the foot of one of the men crushing it severely and injuring the foot of another. The man most injured was taken to the hospital and the boat got under way with Capt Gunton, Dr Ellson, Lugard, Knowles & myself. In 55 minutes we reached Phillip where we tried one or two places before we could find a landing place the wind being due East. In jumping ashore one of the men in his anxiety to assist me hit me right in the eye I caught at another to save falling into the sea & we very nearly both went in together. About four we returned to the Settlement having killed between the four who shot at least fifty couple of Rabbits of which we brought upwards of forty couple away with us. One of the men saw ten wild goats and we all heard the crowing of the wild fowls but only one cock was seen. We reached our Quarters before six went to dinner & spent a very merry evening.

From the 13th to the 24th inclusive I led a very quiet fife one week of that time I was on duty and of course confined to the Settlement. I read, wrote, surveyed houses, paid visits, went fishing one day, rode another, shot pigeons a third and on the evening of the 24th went to the play where Her Majestys Servants performed the Inn of Terracina & raising the wind.

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25th This day is exactly one year since I arrived in Sydney Cove that is one year over. Mrs Anderson had invited us all to a pic nic on the top of mount Pitt thither Lugard Mr Harding (a Catholic Priest) Knowles & myself went in a cart starting about one oclock I was Jehu. In due time we got as far as the cart could go & had to get out & walk. When we reached its summit we found most of the Party just arrived Major & Mrs Anderson, Mrs McDonald, Miss Anderson & Mr Arnold, Capt Gunton & McLean. The Ladies had been only one hour & a quarter ascending what took us about ten minutes. For half an hour or so we lay on the grass admiring the scenery and then some of us attempted to make our way down to the bottom of a very beautiful gully which leads from the crest of Mount Pitt to Cascade; this was not to be accomplished without the use of the Axe & having procured one to work we went. Our labours were interrupted by a call to dinner & after eating and drinking we resumed our work again but did not get more than two or three hundred yards before it was time to go home which in spite of a dark night & stumbling horse we reached in safety.

26th Got up at six wrote Journal. At eight went & bathed & at one went to lunch with Mrs Anderson, Lugard & Major went out to ride I remained & walked with the lady to Pampeluna Bridge returned at five took my leave went home read an hour or so & went to dinner.

27th It had been agreed that we should continue our road down Mount Pitt I tried to raise an exploring party but not succeeding started by myself determined to reach the water said to be in the bottom of the Gully. From the top of the Mount I descended by our road & having taken my axe with me continued the track untill I was too thirsty to work any longer I then proceeded towards the bottom of the Gully as quickly as possible only using the axe where it was absolutely necessary. In an hour or so I accomplished my end but not a drop of water was there. Hoping to find the talked of Spring at every step I continued on for a long distance and at last came to a small water hole from which I took a delightful drink. Here I should have crossed the Gully for the water by degrees increased to a small stream & from that degenerated into a deep narrow swamp too deep to cross & laying between me & the Settlement while the Side of the Gully on which I was on was covered with a thick mat of Ferns & Bines on which I could make no impression with the axe. Having fairly got into them & remembering Burns words "whenever you fall in with Bogles &c" I kept manfully on in hopes my difficulties would terminate but not a bit of it I then tried the swamp but it would not do looking about in despair of getting out (for I had not made a quarter of a mile in the last two hours & was now fairly done) I spied a tree leaning towards the opposite bank; a few strokes of my Axe converted it into a bridge

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& over I went; the sun was setting so that my escape was just in time. By eight I reached home eat some dinner & went to bed.

Sunday 28th After Church Hill asked me if I would take a walk with him to endeavour to pass from the Officers road to Ansons Bay by the Cliffs you may be sure that I did not refuse so about one we set out by the Sucker Ground Hut and then crossed by Long Ridge to McLeods fishing ground proceeding on to the Officers Road. Thus far it was all clear walking but now our difficulties commenced a thorny scrub extending in many places to the edge of the Cliffs & several deep Gullies intervening. By perseverance we reached Ansons Bay which we considered a great exploit being the only Officers on the Island who had ever succeeded by that route. We now turned homewards & reached it about seven oclock.

29th Bathed at six. Read till breakfast time came in read again. Heard that Emily Bay was full of Salmon & that the Soldiers were dragging the Seine I went to look on just as their operations ceased for a blundering Irishman in spite of all cautions steered the boat right into the Shoal & they all went away. Played a game of Cricket untill six came home dressed for dinner. Went to bed at 1/2 past nine.

30th A Wet Stormy day. Made my Gardener lay down some turf on the Cricket ground. Read & poked about in the settlement & my Garden all day.

31st Bathed at six. Wrote till breakfast. Took my gun up to Long Ridge to shoot Pigeons only killed two arranged with McLean that Storey should go out with me at five next morning & that he should join us if possible. In the evening made the necessary preparations.

Thursday November 1st I was up & ready to start at five & Storey was not much behind time. We went first to Steeles Point for White Swallows they were too wild however to allow themselves to be knocked down & out of four I shot only one was fit for Stuffing. A man we met offered to show me a pair of fine Wood Quests we went with him found them & I killed one the other flew away. Giving up the chase of the truant we descended the Cliffs to a small bay off which there was an Island 8 abounding with sea birds. Storey & the other man swam off to it but the birds were so wild that they only took three Black & White Swallows a pair of Mutton Birds & a Slate Colored bird. I shot a pair of Slate colored Birds and a Mutton Bird. Ascending the Cliffs with our game we went to the Camp of the Charcoal Burners for water to take a snack of what we had

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brought with us. In another attempt I killed the Wood Quest & put him on our stick. We now crossed the country to Long ridge arriving there a few minutes to five. I divided the birds with McLean agreed to be with him next morning to breakfast & went home to dinner.

2nd Got up at six bathed, came home, took my Gun & went to Longridge which I reached in time for Breakfast at J past 8. Between nine & ten I walked on to the Ansons Bay hut McLean following on horseback. From Ansons Bay we went to Duncombes Bay where we cliffed to the bottom by a way where it is said no Officer ever passed before. Here was the Island where we hoped to get many birds. Storey & myself swam over the distance was not great but the current was very strong. We remained hunting the birds about two hours but they had done hatching & were so wild that we only got three black & white Swallows a pair of Mutton Birds & a young Gannet. We then swam back dressed climbed up the cliffs again sat down on the Top & made our Luncheon off a piece of cold pork. McLean & I returned to the hut while Storey went to catch some Boatswains. 9 In an hour or more he returned with three. We now went back to Longridge which we reached at five.

3rd Got up at six, bathed with the Major. Wrote Journal till breakfast & afterwards visited my Garden & stockyard. In the Afternoon took a walk with Hill. Dined at six & went to bed early.

Sunday 4th Early in the Morning I was aroused by cries of "Brig O!!!" I jumped up, dressed & on enquiring where the Brig was, was told at Cascade. The Commandant soon sent for the Officer on duty to go & get his instructions for the Brig & to fetch the Mail. Hill was the Officer but he made no objections when I proposed to him to take the duty. At Govt House I got my orders was mounted on the Commandants own horse being cautioned not to ride too fast which I of course showed my attention to by going as fast as the animal could carry me as soon as I was out of sight. I had nearly reached Cascade when I met the Police runner with the Private Signal returning to the Settlement he said that the Brig was off & standing for the Settlement an hour before & that she would be there as soon as us. Of Course I turned about & rode back but no Brig was there. While in Church a man came in to say that the Brig had returned to Cascade & when he left was close in so as soon as the Service was over away I went again (but this time on foot) with Lugard & on reaching Cascade the first thing we saw was the vessel standing away again. The Signal was hoisted fires made & all manner of means used to make her return but "no use" she at length disappeared round a point. Every-

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body (all the World was out) now gave up all hopes of the Mail that night but myself but I was too anxious to give it up so easily & determined not to return without it I knew that it was next to impossible that she could fetch the Settlement & that even if she did that the Mail could not be landed & that she would be signalized back again. About four one of the Soldiers who had remained with me saw the Brig returning & by five or half past I signalized for the Mail which was brought on shore & delivered to me. The Brig was laden with stores & carried 72 prisoners 30 Guard under the command of Lieut. Tyssen a Civil Doctor & two Catholic Priests. She had been 18 days out but the weather had been moderate. In half an hour the Mail was in the Settlement & on its being opened I found that it did not contain a fine for me this after all my trouble was too much so I went home in very low spirits & to bed.

For a very long time I have not written a line. Soon after the departure of the Governor Phillip 10 the "Hinde" arrived with stores for the Island I was on duty for the week & consequently went for the Mail. The first thing put into my hands was a box of papers which I was requested to take great care of and give to Mr Best. On reaching the Settlement again with the Mail I went into the Commandants Office where I opened the box & to my great delight found it full of letters & papers. Another letter was then given me by the Commandants clerk & a bitter one it was. Poor Cadogan - The next event of any importance to me was the arrival of the "Pelorus" Brig of War on her return from New Zealand where she had conveyed the Bishop of Australia to see what was going on. During the time she remained off the Island which was from Friday morning till

Monday night we had four of the Officers the Capt the Bishop & a Capt King staying with us. On the Saturday the Governor Phillip made the Island with Major Bunbury to assume the command 11 Capt Gulston to relieve Capt Gunton & thirty rank and File. I got letters both by the Pelorus & the Governor Phillip which were as satisfactory as could be expected. During the last three months I have been many times out fishing & to Phillip Island and invariably had good sport sometimes catching four hundred weight of fish & shooting rabbits enough to bring home from twenty to forty couple besides cooking enough on the Island to dine 20 men. As I intend going again shortly I shall not particularize any day but give a full account next trip. I now resume my journal.

January 31st [1839] 12 The Governor Phillip being ready for sea & the

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Prisoners & Troops on board about two oclock I rode out to Cascade with all the rest of our Party to see Capt & Mrs Gunton off. We took our dinner with us & eat it on the beach and at four the boat came to take away from us two of our most pleasant companions who had rendered themselves dear to all by their constant kindness & good humour. The Capt was a most agreable officer to serve under & both he & Mrs Gunton invariably did their utmost to contribute to the little amusements of the Island. Having seen the Brig fairly under way & given three cheers we returned to the Settlement.

Febry 1st. I awakened at five looked at the weather cock the wind S. E. fair for our voyagers turned in again & slept untill past eight. Bathed, breakfasted, wrote my journal for the first time for near three months then read Bingleys Animal Biography. In the Afternoon walked out with Lugard & Bunbury to look for views & found several. Returned to dinner at seven. At ten went to bed.

2nd At 1/2 past 6 got up and Bathed; at eleven went out with Major Bunbury to sketch taking my gun with me, the subject chosen was too difficult for me so about three (after many vain attempts to make a resemblance) I joined Tyssen & Lugard and went to Shoot pigeons; returned at six read for a couple of hours after dinner & went to bed.

3rd Sunday Church at ten. In the afternoon went for a walk. McLean dined with us. At nine went to bed.

4th Lugard called me at six to say that the day was propitious for a long planned fishing expedition. Went to bathe, then got the boat from Major Anderson. At ten we started and tried four different fishing grounds without success we then attempted to land on Nepien Island 13 but were prevented by a heavy swell which washed all round it. The majority of the Party were now for going in & my motion to try another

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ground or to go to Phillip was negatived. We got in about three; I had been very seasick so I laid down to read but fell asleep untill seven I then got up dressed went to mess & eat some soup. Nine oclock found me again fast asleep.

5th Very early My Servant came to tell me that a vessel was in sight. When I got up she was still a long way from the Island & we had time to Bathe Breakfast &c &c before the boat went off. On her return the Officer reported that it was the "Alice" from Sydney with stores & a Commissariat Officer & Clerk. We had been much puzzled to make out what she could be, from some error in the Signal. She brought a very small Mail. I did not get any letters but not expecting any was not disappointed. At five sat down & wrote my journal.

6th Got up at seven & bathed. The new arrivals came to the mess room with Arnold soon after breakfast they consisted as aforesaid of a D. A. C. G. 14 by name Turner & a Commissariat clerk a Mr Waldron. We easily persuaded them to stay & lunch with us. I forgot to add that Arnold & Turner dined with us the evening before. While sitting at Luncheon Mr Hayne commander of the "Alice" joined our Party. He is quiet & gentlemanly & one of the handsomest men I ever saw. We soon dispersed in search of various amusements & assembled again at seven to dinner. We sat late & heard some good singing from Mr Turner he has a good voice & some taste but wants scientific teaching. Towards four in the morning some of the party waxed boisterous & chairs flew like flies about the room to the infinite danger of the spectators of the fray as soon as the storm had passed & the principals been carried off to bed the rest of the party dispersed. I gave Capt Hayne a shake down in my room which was in fact a soldiers bedstead with an hospital Palliasse borrowed for the occasion.

7th Went to Bathe at eight. On entering the Mess room a dismal array of broken chairs attracted my organs of vision however I dont care I have to pay for none of them & if they were all smashed it would not affect me; there's a nice sentiment for you. Breakfast being over I went to the Commandants office to borrow some horses I could only get two so Capt Hayne & myself mounted them at two accompanied by Turner on the mare which draws the Commsst cart. We rode by Long Ridge over Mount Pitt by the new road which has been recently made and by which a dray might pass to Cascade & from thence home by Church

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Yard Gulley arriving about six. The Capt, Lugard & some others dine & Arnolds & Elson with us. Our Mess Party with the exception of Elson & Knowles soon adjourned to Arnolds. The first part of the evening went on quietly enough with singing &c &c. Having made up my mind that there would be a row before the evening was out I avoided the bottle as much as possible merely with the view of enjoying it the more & as soon as I saw any tendency to uproar I added my mite Lugard was also cooperating with me but without my knowledge his plan for a row was setting every body by the ears. At last our purpose was effected and our plans succeeded beyond our utmost wishes lemons & candles meandered through the air in a very beautiful manner chairs were rattled and the table upset. As soon as the lights were doused I ensconced myself behind a cupboard door in perfect safety while poor Arnold declared he had never been so treated in his house before & should go & sleep in the bush & away he went, was pursued, pacified & brought back. Minor repetitions of the same scene kept all on the qui vive untill four when some few shewing a pugnacious spirit we all marched.

Fig. 1 Map of Norfolk Island redrawn from one published in P. P. 1841/412.

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8th We did not assemble at the breakfast table till ten when we had a merry laugh over the exploits of last night when we met Arnold he declared me the cause of all mischief & laughed as heartily as anyone else over his misfortunes. After Luncheon Tyssen & the Capt went out riding and Major Bunbury & I out walking towards black Rock. I must in justice to the Major say that he was not at either of our late Parties. We dined at seven and by ten I was in bed.

9th The morning passed as usual at two Major Bunbury, Tyssen, Lugard, Stuart, Hayne & I went to Nepoean Island where the Major, Tyssen, Stuart & Hayne landed we went out to fish we were very unlucky there was a sea running on the ground no fish & we were very sick giving up fishing we returned & reembarked the other party who got well ducked getting into the boat. Came home dined & went to bed early. *

Sunday 10th Went to church as usual at ten. At one having obtained permission from Major Anderson went off in the Fairlie with Capt Hayne to the Alice was on board about an hour but too sick to partake of any of the good things produced by the Steward. The Alice is a fine Brig and her accommodations excellent. I returned in time to take a walk & recover my sickness before dinner & went to bed at 1/2 past nine.

11th - 12th Not well a kind of alloverishness. Ran about everywhere trying to shake it off, bathed & all that but it would not do went to bed early did not eat.

13th Got up seven to bathe. At Breakfast feeling still unwell eat bread & water melon. At ten a party going for a walk & thinking one would do me good took up my gun & joined them. We first went to the Cascade not Cascade Landing place where we halted and while luncheon was being cooked I went & shot two pigeons the report of my piece setting my head "all of a boil". Lunch concluded I found that I was too ill to proceed with the Party so they took the road to Mount Pitt & I that to the Settlement which I reached in about three hours being a distance of as many miles. I was frequently obliged to lie down to rest. As soon as I got home I called my Servant made him pull off my shoes & shooting coat cover me (for I lay on my bed) with a great coat & then sent him for the Doctor who came immediately said that I had got the Fever (a kind of low one going about at present) ordered me to bed &c &c - & cut all my hair off.

14th & 15th Could not bear a ray of light head so bad very cold sometimes very hot sometimes. Tea & Gruel.

* The most important event has been omitted. Mrs Anderson has at length presented her Lord with the Long expected pledge of her affections - a young lady, 1/2 past 10 Saturday 9th Febr. 1839.

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16th Better. Could bear light and read. Tea & Gruel.

17th Sunday. Much better. I had been all along well physicked & neither had or wanted to have anything to eat. Today I was told to eat all sorts of Fruit & got a bit of water melon.

18th Allowed to Get up for two hours & had Fruit & Chicken broth read all day.

19th Up five hours sat in Major Bunburys room or in Tyssens reading. Went to bed at seven much better.

20th Still getting better. Read all day & got up for a few hours.

21st The Doctor let me get up & go out. Every body had gone to a picnic except the Capt of the Alice who was making preparations for sailing. The day before a Whaler had made the Island & required medical assistance for one of the crew. The Civil Dr went off & found the man in so bad a state that he brought him on shore & he was put in the Military Hospital. The Capt of the Whaler & his wife came on shore & went up to Govt House and Major Anderson contrived to barter some pigs & vegetables for the 8th of a ton of Sperm oil worth 10£ I mention this because in speaking to Capt Hayne he said that if he was to remain Commandant for 99 years he would never allow another master of a merchant Vessel to land for that he Capt Hayne had made the Island more like a trading than a penal Settlement. He had bought a few ducks & Geese the same as the Officers of the Pelorus had done and we had given him a few vegetables &c but the fact was that Joe was nettled that Hayne had been content to remain at the Mess instead of crouching at the feet of his Excellency. About four Capt Hayne went off to his Brig I returned home. Before dark the Brig was well on her way to Manilla. I went to bed at eight I felt ill & tired previous to going to bed I wrote part of a letter.

22nd Suffered all day from the overexertion of yesterday was cold & Shivering. Walked in Gulstons Garden & eat some Figs. I[n] the evening got a big fire wrote & read till 1/2 past nine then went to bed.

23rd Got up at ten better sat in Bunburys room & read & went to my Garden. In the evening had a fire read & wrote.

24th Sunday Up at ten much better walked about read in different rooms all day sometimes in one & sometimes in another. In the evening a fire & a read.

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25th Up at ten still getting better. A Court Martial assembled in the Mess Room for the trial of such Prisoners as might be brought before it. In the evening played a rubber at whist went to bed at ten.

26th Got up at nine feeling all right read wrote visited Mrs McDonald & my Garden dined at Mess & at eight or half past being tired went to bed.

27th Not so well breakfasted at ten went out with my Dogs & swam them at twelve came home wrote my journal. While unwell several changes have been made in the Interior Economy of the Detachment there are now regular morning parades & everything is conducted as at headquarters with the exception of the soldiers going out to work in their gardens. No prisoner is now allowed to pass into the barrack unless holding a written pass from Capt Gulston & guarded by a Sentry. Joe has had a dose of Cream of Tartar & we suffer by it. I have been here 6 months & two days I forgot to register the 6 months in my diary of the 25th. Snow ball was nine months old on the 26th. I dined at four & went out for a ride with Major Anderson when he informed me to my great surprize that he expected to see his name in the July Gazette as Lieut. Coll & perpetual Commandant of Norfolk Island from which the Lord preserve us. Got home about dark had some tea wrote till 10 then took some medicine & went to bed.

28th My Servant awakened me between five and six to swallow an imperial pint of Salts. Got up at nine breakfasted walked to the beach & returned to Bunburys room where I remained till one then went & wrote a list of the books I wanted & my journal. Went to the beach with the dogs returned and read "Bruces Travels" At four went to my garden. Dined at five Spent the evening in writing to William Jopp & in reading, untill 10 then went to bed.

March 1st Got up at nine. After breakfast mustered my stock & had my puppies ears cropped. Bathed the Dogs & chained them up again read in Gulstons Summer House & at five went to my Garden. Dined at Mess at six. At 1/2 past seven went to my room to write my journal & letter. Much stronger & better today ordered by the Doctor to resume bathing tomorrow.

2nd The bugle at 1/2 past seven awakened me I immediately got up & called Lugard but it was nearly eight before we left the Barrack I did not enjoy my bathe much for no sooner was I in the water than the Dr ordered me out. After breakfast went onto the upper Verandah to see the review. Visited my stock yard came home & wrote till five, dined at mess. In the evening read Bruces Travels & went early to bed.

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3rd Sunday Bathed at eight. The day was excessively close & warm threatening rain. Read till two then strolled about till five. Dined at six. Left the Table at eight & wrote my Journal. I have been put quite on the qui vive all day from hearing that a large shoal of Turtle were seen yesterday in Cresswell Bay I wish I was a little stronger I would be at them. A Party to Phillip is proposed for tomorrow. Went to bed at 1/2 past nine.

4th Was down at the bathing house by eight spent the day in my garden & stockyard & writing to Orme. In the evening read three years in Canada by McTaggart but did not go deep enough into it to decide on its merits. He appears to me to talk some nonsense about the sea & being Pooped when running 10 knots. At 12 a party started for Cresswell Bay to Catch Turtle. I went to bed at 10.

5th I had a remote idea when I got up at 1/2 past seven that somebody had been into my room about daylight & on enquiry found that this was the case, two of the Turtle party returning at 1/2 past five having slept out all night without seeing anything. At 9 after returning from bathing Lugard, Tyssen & Mr Turner the new Commissary embarked in the Fairlie for Phillip Island. I spent the day much as the last & was dining with Arnold about five when the servant came running in to say that the boat had had a run & capsized I hastened to the beach and there sure enough was the boat upset & all the people scrambling out of the water the Coxwain & a Soldier were the only people hurt & they not seriously. No blame could be attached to the former who laid off untill several seas had passed but unfortunately just as he ran in on the supposed last another came as he was endeavouring to turn the corner caught her under the counter and over she went. The sea was like a mill pond but the bar very heavy from a ground swell. A second boat was in the water to pick up thanks to the foresight of Mr Forster Supt of Convicts & was of great service. Nothing was saved but the men Officers & dogs, all Guns &c went to the bottom. After the Fairlie had been carried out I inspected her & my opinion is that she is not worth repairing there is scarce a whole plank in her. I returned to Arnolds untill nine then sat with the Major a few minutes & at 10 went to bed.

6th I heard the breakfast Call at 1/2 past seven but somehow turned round & went to sleep till Tyssen called me I got up & while dressing the bell rang eight. Went to Parade for the first time since being ill. Two of the Men who took the Bush a day or two ago were brought in this morning but Dignum is still out. This mans history is worth relating. He & the notorious Comerford were assigned servants at or near Port Phillip & with several others took the bush; they committed various atrocities & at last Dignum fearing to be split upon murdered his seven comrades at two or

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three different times & also attempted the life of Comerford more than once. They were taken & Comerford to save himself gave information of these murders & actually showed the spot where six of the bodies lay. Returning Comerford killed a constable as I have related elsewhere & escaped from his escort was again taken, tried & executed. He being the only evidence against Dignum the latter escaped being tried for a capital offence (although it was much wished to hang him) but was sent here for life about four months ago, for horse stealing. I expect that he will kill some one if they try to take him & if I were Commandant I should sieze this opportunity to rid the world of such a Monster for I would send a Sergt & six with orders to shoot him like a dog or Wolf when & where he might be found. This the Commandant is authorized to do when men take the bush & it would have a good effect. In the Afternoon watched the men diving for the lost articles they fished up all the Guns (three) a pistol, Cutlass, Drinking cup (Metal) & two plates. Walked till 7 Took Tea at eight wrote my journal & went to bed at ten.

7th At 1/2 past seven turned out for a bathe. A Bark & Brig were off the Settlement both Whalers. The former was owned & commanded by an old friend of McLeans & came in his boat to see him after a separation of 20 years but no sooner did the boat touch the shore than he was ordered off by the Commandant. Forsooth he wanted no oil & what signified old friendships to him. Wandered about during the day dined with Arnold at five & took a long walk after dinner returning to Tea. Went to bed at eleven.

8th Bell ringing at eight awakened me. Brig still off the Island. Bathed & went to Parade at 1/2 past nine. The day was intensely hot. Paid a visit to Mrs McDonald, yesterday one to Govt House. "Early this morning The Hble Mrs Pery of a Daughter Still Born". 15 Went out in the Afternoon for a ride. Dined at Mess then wrote Journal. Wrote to Fanny after journal untill 1/2 past nine then read till 1/2 past 10 & went to bed.

9th Parade at 1/2 past six, after it was over bathed. The day was very hot. At two the wickets were pitched for a game of cricket which was over by five. Visited my Garden & then went & eat figs in Gulstons. Dined at 6 read wrote &c in the evening.

10th Our Bathe was over by 1/2 past eight. Went to Church first time

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for a month. In the afternoon walked to the Garden of the Priest. It is well laid out & stocked with Bananas, Pines &c from Orange vale. Washed my dogs, went to my garden. McLean dined with us wrote Journal went to bed. There was a grand Christening today & a feed afterwards at Govt House.

11th Being on Duty for the week got my swim over early. In the Afternoon passed an hour or so in my Garden. In the evening read untill 1/2 past nine then went to sleep for a time unknown, got up & went my rounds and having done this went to bed. Some time during the night was siezed with violent pains in my stomack accompanied by cramp in my legs and vomiting. At daylight sent for the Doctor

12th who came said I had an attack of Cholera & prescribed accordingly I lay in great pain all day fomented with Flannels & hot water towards evening got better & passed a good night.

13th Felt so much better that I wanted to get up but Ellson (the Doctor) would not hear of it so I lay in bed making the best of it with McTaggarts Three Years in Canada & plenty of visitors; thus passed Wednesday.

14th The first person I saw was Lugard who told me that Dignum was taken the night before; he made no resistance & merely begged that they would not hurt him. On his examination he stated the reason of his taking the Bush to be the treatment he received from the other Prisoners who have it "That he eat the bodies of his Port Phillip victims" consider him a Cannibal & call & treat him as such. This story I believe Major Anderson credited in whole or part. I am aware that his slang name among his fellow Convicts is "the Cannibal" but I much doubt its having any effect on those fine feelings which he must possess in so eminent a degree. Was allowed to get up at eleven & while dressing Brig O! was the cry; but like many others the Brig proved to be a ship or Barque steering to the Southward. I dined at three on Mutton Broth & at seven wrote my journal. At eight went to bed.

15th At 1/2 past eight got up still feeling very unwell. Sat reading in my room all day & was again prescribed for by the Doctor. There was a grand dinner at the Mess but unfortunately I was not well enough to attend. I went to bed before eight first swallowing two huge pills.

16th Flearing a slight noise in my room I looked up to see what it was, when, Lo, Harrott appeared with a wine glass of some villainous looking compound which he requested me to drink I tossed it off & fell asleep again untill eight when I got up. Towards evening my case improved &

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I laughed heartily over the ludicrous scenes described by Diedrich Knickerbocker in his History of New York. I did not retire for the night untill past ten.

17th Sunday. St Patricks Day. Got up at 1/2 past eight very seedy but improved much after breakfast. Did not go to church. Between one and two the Patron of the day sent us a shower of rain from the N. W. our hopes that it would continue were disappointed it was a shower and that was all. Perused various books during the day & walked on the upper Verandah. In the Evening wrote my journal & read. Think I shall do again now. This day twelve months got my coat spoilt at the St Patricks ball in Sydney by the D----D Jubilee Lamp.

18th Got up at nine. After breakfast went out to the different Stock-yards, a shower of rain drove me back to take refuge in my own where I remained nearly an hour. I dined in the mess room again & whilst at dinner a thunder storm came on with very heavy rain but neither the lightening or thunder were any thing remarkable. The rain lasted about two hours or not so much. The night was pitch dark but when the lightening blazed forth its effect on the low Island of Napoean & the distant peak of Phillip with the intervening sea was most beautiful I never remember seeing anything more strikingly grand. At ten the thunderstorm being over I went to bed.

19th I was early in my garden to witness the good effects of the rain which were not however as visible as I had expected they would be; in fact the ground was so completely parched by the long continued drought that a deluge would be swallowed up. After setting my gardener at work to sow all the spare potatoes I could muster & giving him some other orders I went back to the Barracks & procured permission to shoot in the Settlement. In course of the afternoon I killed eleven and might have got more had I not become tired. In the evening played a rubber of Whist. Finished the History of New York & about eleven went to bed very well but very tired.

20th Up at 1/2 past seven. The first sight which gladdened my sight was the traces of more rain a fine shower had fallen during the night. The Parade being dismissed I went to my garden where my Gardener was busy planting and sowing. I then went up to Longridge in hopes of seeing McLean, exchanging a small sow for a big barrow & getting some posts for my garden rails. Unfortunately McLean was out so I incontinently fell to slaying pigeons & Tyssen & myself bagged nineteen. Left the Mess room at ten & wrote my journal. The brig is said to be off the Island. We are not to have any more butter untill the grass grows.

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Some say that by the time that the Brig has been in Sydney two days that salt Butter will be at a discount in the Market. Major Anderson took good care to move the dairy from the Govt Farm & place it under his own eye (read hand) at Govt House. It rains a little & is time to go to bed.

21st Awakening about five oclock I jumped out of bed to see the effects of the rain but none were visible - from which I inferred that it had been blown over by the strong S. W. wind. Turned in & slept till eight. After parade I made one of a party who went in search of Wood Quests. We left the Settlement with Storey for our guide about eleven & went first to Cascade from thence I went along the road to Mount Pitt (Lugard & Storey keeping in the Gullies to the right) & reached the summit without seeing a bird in the Wood Quest shape. I knocked down several small birds with a long stick. Here a substantial Luncheon had been provided for us & Arnold Turner Tyssen & myself sat down to Irish Stew, pigeon pie, pickled pork & other condiments Lugard soon joined us without any game although his guide had seen four. From our elevated station we percieved a sail to the S. W. which as a matter of course was at first pronounced to be the Govnr Phillip but soon proved itself to be a ship steering to the Northward. On our road homeward the order of march was changed Tyssen & I going with Storey while the Others kept the road we had not gone far when up in a tree which the other two had passed I heard a Wood Quests cry I called them back & it was killed this was the only one we found. By the time we reached home I was fairly done up it was past seven I had made a good dinner on the mount so I took some tea put my feet in hot water, turned in & read untill ten when I doused glims & fell asleep.

22nd Got up at eight. Went to parade at 1/2 past nine. Between ten & eleven a sail was signalized from Pt Ross. I went to my garden from thence to the beach meeting by the way Major Anderson & some more of the Officers with the Capt of the Whaler which had left the sailor here. We all Lunched in the mess room & in the afternoon there was a race between the Whalers boat & our new boat Victoria which was won by the former as expected but the latter is a fine boat in the water and gave great satisfaction. The Capt was presented by the Commandant with a box full of something & Lugard who was the only officer who went off was strictly enjoined to board the Whaler if possible & bring off some Bows and other curiosities for the said Commandant & family. * As soon as the boat was out of sight I went & played Cricket. Mem- the sick sailor was too ill to join his ship & still remains in our Hospital. The boat returned shortly

*No Traffic. Mind you hold no intercourse with that vessel.

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before dinner with a Cargo of Feejee or New Zealand shells, Bows & sundries. I remained at the Mess table till 1/2 past seven & then adjourned to my room & wrote two days log. The Whaler was the vessel we saw yesterday. I am very tired & shall lie on my bed & read Denons Egypt. 16

23rd In the forenoon Major Anderson sent us down some Sydney papers which he had got from the Whaler that vessel having obtained them from a Brig it had spoken off Howe's Island. One of the papers was dated 23rd February & from it I learnt that Mr Norths Lieutenantcy for which my name had been returned by the Colonel had been purchased by Mr Pack after that officer had allowed six opportunities of purchasing his Lieutenantcy to pass & par consequence as many Ensigns to go over his head. This is a terrible blow to my hopes of rapid promotion & is more disappointing from having previously lost my chance by the merest accident & having (in the present instance) eagerly sought for the gazette of Best v North in every army list & paper that fell into my hands for the last three months. 17 As far as the Lieutcy is concerned I do not much care but what I look to is that my present ill luck may delay the date of my company some years. Such is the fate of War. What can't be cured must be endured. If anyone has cause to hate N. I. surely I am the one for since my arrival here naught but ill news has reached me. By the same paper we are informed that the Govnr Phillip is laid on for N. I. which intelligence is confirmed by the Capt of the Whaler who was told by the Cap of the Brig that the Phillip was actually loading when he left Sydney which is now three weeks since for my part I dread her arrival. I can hear no good & probably much evil. A consignment of Arrowroot from Major Anderson to the Quarter Master Sergt of the 50th on his private account is said to be siezed & ordered to be sold by the Govt and this precious budget of news concludes (as my log will) by announg that a perfect dearth prevails in the colony of New South Wales.

24th Sunday. Went to Church at ten. In the Afternoon walked round some of the Stock yards examining the stock & wishing to prolong my walk strolled round by Creswell bay a place I had never been in before & the short road from Point Ross to the Settlement. Went to bed at ten.

25th The morning passed as usual. I was obliged to give up Denons Egypt I could not have supposed that anyone could have had the conceit to publish such a composition of course I have not the means of judging

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whether the fault lies with the Author or Translator only having fallen in with the production of the latter. At two I commenced playing cricket & had a capital game which lasted untill six. In the evening after Mess I sat in Lugards room some hours & at eleven went to my own where I read Denhams Travels 18 by way of making up for any deficiency I might have incurred by abandoning Denon. At last my eyes refused to perform their office any longer words mingled with lines & lines confused themselves with Pages, I crept under the clothes for I was lying on my bed closed my book & fell asleep.

26th I awakened at six took up my book & read till eight. It was a dark, hazy, rainy looking morning - The weather for the last few days has been detestable; close & muggy always promissing rain & always disappointing us. I frittered away the morning in the mess room & my stockyard. In the Afternoon got leave to shoot in the settlement intending to annihilate the pigeons, could not find one to my great disgust. After mess had a violent attack of Indigestion a thing I never remember having suffered from before it lasted about an hour and a half during which I was in great pain suddenly it departed leaving me quite well. At ten I went to bed & read myself to sleep.

27th From the time I fell asleep the night before I do not think that I as much as stirred untill Harrott called me at eight. I immediately got up & was delighted to find it raining; it had commenced about two. After breakfast went to my stockyard & garden superintended the planting of Cabbages in the latter. Returning met the Superintendent of Convicts Mr Forster who accompanied me home where he gave a most animated description of a shark which he stated came inside the reef in front of the Convict Barracks about two in the afternoon remaining the terror of the prisoners and tormentor of the fishermen (several of whose lines it had carried away) untill dark. Resolving if possible to stop this fellow's career I sat diligently to work rigging one of my Shark Hooks & also my Harpoon & by the usual time of his appearance I was on the beach. I had not to wait long; First one & then a second appeared & one of them turned my bait (a nice bit of Pork) over with the round nose but did not fancy it they then both vanished & after standing in the water for three hours I followed their example. I had a bit of board as float to my bait which one of the prisoners swam out with into deep water after the Shark had turned the bait over I pulled in my line to see if he had carried it off or not. The difficulty then was how to get it out again. At last a man volunteered to carry it out professing not to care a straw for all the Sharks in the world. Hardly was he out of his depth when our friends dorsal fin was spied by

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the swimmer. It was highly ridiculous to see him, evidently forgetting all his big talk, drop the line and scramble out of the water as if the Devil was after him. On returning home my Servant said that my stockman had been up to say that one of my pups was lame I went down & found its leg broken which the man said had been done by the pup itself which was in the present case impossible. The shark was hooked on a small hook & broke away. Dined at Mess. In the evening wrote & read untill near eleven.

28th It had commenced raining the evening before & rained the greater part of the night. Got up at eight & after breakfast rigged out a new line for the shark. The showers kept me in nearly all day. In the evening or afternoon took a short walk with Major Bunbury. I was present in the office when Major Anderson held his court the screening system now carried on by him is disgraceful. Fifteen scoundrels who broke away from their work in spite of their overseers escaped without any punishment. It is evident that he wishes to throw all the odium of any severe measures on his successor & to make a case in which his leniency may be brought in juxta position with those measures which the present relaxed state of the convict discipline imperatively demands. A fine rain commenced again at sunset & lasted all night.

29th Good Friday. Slept most soundly untill eight got up & breakfasted & then went to my garden. Found all the ground filled up with various vegetables & plants. At three in the Afternoon went to church & afterwards walked untill six. Sat at Mess till 1/2 past nine then read till eleven & went to sleep.

30th At i past nine Parade & inspection of Kits. Lounged about in my garden untill one then went fishing. At four the "Blue Grouper" boat was brought into Emily Bay with the Seine. We made two hauls the first brought us six Groupers & two Trevalliers with some other fish the second five fine salmon. One of the Sharks was caught this morning; He was upwards of four feet long but very thick, only a little one We hope to get the big one soon. It was near seven before we went to Mess I retired early & wrote my log.

31st Sunday. Church parade in Blue Surtouts. A Rainy morning. Yesterday night plenty of rain. After church the rain ceasing took my dogs for a swim and strolled about till dinner time. In the evening went early to bed desiring to be awakened at six.

April 1st Monday. At 1/2 past five my eyes opened I looked out of window & behold the morning was wet & unpropitious for hauling the seine. About seven got up & at 10 the rain stopping went to fish, was Very

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nearly capsized getting to the ground in the boat although inside the bar. First Haul--8 Kingfish three mullet & a Trevallier; Second - Net foul enclosed a great number of fine fish but all escaped. Third - Foul again -Nothing; Fourth - Some Hundreds of Guard Fish; Fifth - Nothing. We now gave over & considered we had done well taking into account the unfavorable state of the tide. Lunched with Arnold in Commisst Store. He gives up charge to Turner today. Major Anderson was present very down in the mouth. Walked to Cresswell bay & Longridge. Arnold & Turner came up in the evening Sat till past one on the

2nd When I went to bed. Up at seven breakfast at nine & Loading Parade at 1/4 past. Called on Mrs McDonald and afterwards walked to Black or Flat rock (I am not sure which is which) to see the Surf which came rolling in from the Eastward in a most magnificent & awful manner. When the seas topped or broke it was like a Thunder clap. Visited my garden - dined at 1/2 past six. Went to my room at eight & wrote my journal - Read untill 10 and then went to bed.

3rd Got up at 1/2 past seven. Directly after breakfast haul'd the Seine with tolerable success and continued our sport untill past 12 when a Signal was hoisted at Point Ross and the cry of, Brig O! was raised this time the Wolf really came. Major Anderson would not allow a boat to go out although the surf was very slight & the Brig was signalized to go to Cascade whither we all repaired in different ways. The Mail was landed with great difficulty there being a worse sea than in front of the Settlement. I recieved by private hand letters from Fanny & Helen very satisfactory which I read on my walk home & also one from Capt Best I got a small parcel & note from Hill. In the evening when the mail was opened I got a letter from Parry which delighted me. I went to bed early & happy.

4th Resumed after parade the letter I had commenced to Parry. The Prisoners were landed & marched in from Cascade the Guard & Lieut. Torkinton 80th Regt following. The afternoon was rather wet. The other passenger was a Mr Thoms of the Commisst Dept a Treasury clerk he seems far above his colleagues as far as I can see at present. We sat late after mess hearing the news from Sydney, N. S. W. & England.

5th Got up at seven, went to my garden & gave the gardener the seed I had procured from Sydney strolled about & paid visits in the morning. In the afternoon walked to Longridge & shot pigeons returned to dinner at six Mr Thoms dined with us again today I left Mess early. Read for an hour and went to bed at 1/2 past ten. Major Anderson resigned today.

6th We paraded for Guard at the usual hour. Inspected Barracks at twelve & arms & kitts at 1/2 past three. The latter parade being concluded

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April

I had a couple of hours walk. In the evening read & wrote going to bed at 10.

7th Sunday. This was the first morning I had been allowed to bathe since my second attack the morning was warm & I never enjoyed anything more. At 10 Church parade & after Luncheon walked with Mr Thoms to Pt Ross. By the bye Mr Thoms is an Entymologist & has some good works on that subject. The Evening passed much as usual.

8th At six I awakened & got up aroused Lugard who followed my example. We went out shooting returning soon after eight when we went to bathe. I ought to have been on duty this week but Torkinton was put in Orders & consequently took the duty an arrangement to which I did not object. The Hour for Parade was altered from 1/2 past nine to half past ten. Visited my stockyard & after taking my gun down to the Smiths shop to have the breech taken off walked untill two. I went to bed at 1/2 past nine as tired as a dog. One of my Morning occupations was counting over dirty sheets, blankets & other stinking filth & in the afternoon after two I went to the christening of a summer house which Lugard had erected in his new garden.

9th Was up at daylight shouldered my Gun & walked to Longridge my stockman following driving a small sow which I exchanged with McLean for a tolerably large Barrow. McLean not coming home as soon as I expected for he was out riding I endeavoured to shoot some pigeons without success & got thoroughly wet through for my pains but McLean gave me a change & a breakfast and at 1/2 past 10 the rain having ceased was in the settlement & at Parade. After Parade went to my stockyard to see my new pig. I am grown quite a farmer & then returning employed the greater part of the afternoon in applying preservative to my beetles. I then walked from four to six. At 1/2 past seven went to the play the pieces were the Miser or Blackfriars Bridge a scene from Tom & Jerry and Don Juan all of which were tolerably enacted, quite equal to anything I had yet seen. It was nearly one before I was in bed.

10th In consequence of my late hours it was eight oclock before I awakened. I bathed Breakfasted & paraded as usual. The Brig was expected in front of the Settlement but did not arrive. During the forenoon I wandered about & visited my Stockyard. In the Afternoon played at Cricket and at 10 went to sleep done up.

11th Lugard called me about six. Walked round by Longridge and bathed before breakfast. Went to parade and my garden then returned and finished curing my Beetles. At Two called on Major and Mrs Anderson

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I never in my life saw so great a change as in the former he used to be cheerful & confident & is now melancholy and desponding. Boyle the Commander of the Govnr Phillip went on Board today & Mr Munro the 1st Mate (who is a young man who had served in the Spanish War of succession as second in a steamer & first in a Gun Boat) came on shore. I left mess about 1/2 past eight went to my room & wrote my Log. Mem. Poor Jackson who was Mate of the Brig when I came down is said to have been lost on his passage to Morton Bay, he had been out in the "Foster Fydus" (a Government cutter of which he had obtained the command) for ten weeks & had never been heard of. I trust he may turn up yet both for his own sake for he was a nice young fellow and that of his father who was Barrackmaster in N. S. W. but superseeded under the new regime. He is a perfect gentleman & said to have been a gallant officer & a Major in the army. Old Boyle seems very anxious to create an impression that Jackson must have been lost but Mr Munro seems to thin[k] it improbable or at least uncertain as no advices have been recieved from Morton Bay since his leaving Sydney Head.

Here ends the journal or log which was written by me when actually in Norfolk Island. I do not now remember the reason for my not continuing it in fact I do not think I had one. The whole thing is very carelessly written sometimes weeks elapsing between the moments when I took up the pen. I now propose adding such remarks as may occur to me and relating one or two circumstances which are not yet in this Book.

From the time that Major Bunbury assumed the command a great change took place in the discipline of the Convicts. The number of malingerers under the reign of Major Anderson had been very great and these were now soon reduced. The New System was briefly this "that those who were too sick to work must also be too sick to eat" and according to the different degrees of light work in which they were employed so were their rations proportioned and the result was that many an infirm cripple who could hardly stir hand or foot was transformed into an able bodied labourer. Any Convict reported as a malingerer by the Doctor was severely punished and also those who made a visit to the Doctor an excuse to shirk their mornings work.

About this time one of the most daring attempts to escape ever known on the Island was made by four of the convicts. 19 Some of the Officers were amusing themselves with the Seine just as they had hauled it on shore & were getting the fish out these fellows rushed the boat threw the crew out and then steered the boat right through the heaviest of the surf in front of the prisoners barracks. The alarm was instantly given and two

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of the fastest boats started in pursuit with four soldiers in each. The headmost boat soon overhauled the runaways and as soon as they were within range opened their fire the runaways finding no chance of escape threw down their oars on which the firing ceased. They were brought back tried found guilty and in a very few minutes each had received three hundred lashes.

Among the convicts was a Man of the name of McManis he had been transported from Van Diemans Land when the rest of his family (the Father & three brothers) were hanged for murder. He attempted to murder his overseer and was sentenced to two years solitary imprisonment. One afternoon he got up one of the flags at the bottom of his cell broke off a large piece of the stone which he tied up in the sleeve of his shirt; with this weapon he knocked two of the wardsmen or Turnkeys on the head nearly killing them both. After this feat he was secured in such a way as to prevent his doing further mischief and then he went raving mad for upwards of a week he never tasted food but howled day and night. The Colonial surgeon now deemed it necessary to remove him to a ward in the hospital in which was another Maniac and here he was secured in a Strait waistcoat and chained down upon an Iron bedstead. One evening Mr Sharp was sitting at tea time reading by his fire when the door opened and a convict entered a knife in his hand and his face concealed by a piece of Linen. He said Mr Sharp I do not wish to do you any injury but I am aware that you have £100 in the house I have been gambling and lost ten pounds and that sum I must have, now the poker was convenient to Mr Sharp but the sight of the little convict with the Knife caused his lower jaw to commit so violent an assault on the upper that he was too much engaged in reducing the unruly member to order to think of availing himself of its proximity. The man with the Knife now made the party (Mr Sharpe Mrs Do & Miss Lambie) retire to the end of the room nearest the fireplace while he pocketed everything of value he could see and ransacked the ladies work boxes among other things he took a watch which he offered to sell Mr Sharp for five pounds. He now paraded the whole party across the passage into the bedroom which he also ransacked and telling them that if they made a noise for a certain time he would certainly return and murder them all he walked quietly out of the house. As soon as prudent a hue & cry was raised the whole settlement was in an uproar but nothing was discovered all subsequent enquiries lead to nothing and the bussiness was almost forgotten.

A considerable time had elapsed when one night the Civil Doctor dreamed that the Madmen had broken loose he awakened and such was the hold his dream had taken of him that he determined to visit the ward where they were confined. On entering he found the Madmen quietly sitting on their beds without their straight waistcoats or Irons conversing rationally. An enquiry took place next day at the Police office. McManis turned

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Kings evidence or in Island Parlance peached. Their Keeper used every night to take off their Irons and waistcoats and then they used to get out of the hospital through a skylight and meander about the Island. In one of these excursions they robbed Mr Sharpe all whose things were found concealed in one of the bed ticks. In consequence of his confession McManis was pardonned returned to his work & appeared to have become an altered man he said that no one knew what he had gone through and while I remained on the Island was remarkable as a hard working, civil, quiet man. The Keeper and the other were punished as they deserved. 20 To such an extent did McManis feign madness and so successfully that he frightened a Martial Commissary into cutting off a pair of Moustache of which he was very proud swearing on an occasion when that gentleman paid him a visit that he would certainly murder him unless the Moustache was off in a certain time. The threat had the desired effect.

The mutiny of the Troops on the 1st of July has long since ceased to be a subject of wonder or conversation. In consequence of it the Detacht was relieved the Alligator Sloop of war and the "Cornwall" taken up as a Transport bringing down a Detacht of the 50th Regt for that purpose. With regard to the propriety of this change I am not in a position to give an opinion it is sufficient for me to know that it was deemed expedient by my superiors but in justice to our misguided men I must say that after their return to their duty which was immediate I never saw duty so actively performed and they all appeared to be fully sensible of the rash act which they had committed. Major Ryan assumed the command and we returned to Sydney in the Cornwall. Immediately on our arrival a Court of Enquiry was instituted at which I as in duty bound gave the fullest evidence in my power. One result of the enquiry was that Major Bunbury was ordered to frame charges against the Ringleaders and a General Court Martial assembled to try them. Eight were sentenced to be transported for life and in pursuance of this sentence conveyed to Port Arthur in Van Diemans Land. A Ninth who was sentenced to fourteen years Transportation was pardonned by the General Sir Maurice O'Connell. Major Ryan remained in command for some seven months during which time Capt Best 50th Regt was lost in crossing the Bar on his return from a Shooting Party at Phillip Island. Capt Maconochie R. N. now assumed the command being appointed direct from home to carry out his Social System 21 which he had invented if I may be allowed to use such a term during the time he resided in Van Diemans Land where he filled the situation of Private Secretary to Sir John Franklin. Much as has been said and written concerning this famous system I confess I am one of those who cannot comprehend

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its merits nor can I understand on what grounds confidence is to be placed in a doubly and perhaps trebly convicted Felon. No doubt instances of reformation do occur but these are few and far between. Not having seen any person who resided in the Island since Capt Maconochie assumed the command my only information of the results of his System is derived from the public prints on which I place very small reliance as party spirit runs high but one anecdote I will relate the authenticity of which I can vouch for.

A Party of Officers went on a shooting excursion to Phillip Island and as I understand that they purposed remaining one or more nights it is to be presumed that they took care to be provided with food, water, bedding and such other things as they thought they might require moreover as a prolonged visit to the Island is of uncertain duration it is most likely that they were supplied for a time exceeding that which they proposed staying. The boat landed them and then returned to the Settlement. At the appointed time it was dispatched to fetch the party. In my time no boat ever left the Island without a Guard of Soldiers but Capt Maconochie considered it degrading to Convicts to be so guarded and the custom was discontinued. The boat reached Phillip Island and the Party went down to it with all their Game and baggage of whatever nature the latter might be. Everything was handed in and carefully stowed in the boat and the Officers were on the point of stepping in when it was suggested that it would be well to hand the guns to the Coxwain (a free man) in order that they might be properly stowed aft. Suspecting no guile the guns were handed in and instantly turned against their owners one being put to the head of the Coxwain. The convicts now said that they were determined to have their liberty but wished to hurt no one and forthwith handed the Coxwain out of the boat. They then marched the whole party up to the Hut which had been constructed since I left the Island and there made them all fast tying their hands behind and other ways securing them. Having done this they returned to the Boat and pushed off. The boat was seen leaving the direction it took exciting little surprise to those on the Island (Norfolk) who merely said Oh they are going fishing. At length one of the Captives contrived to get loose and released the others and instantly a large fire was lit. This attracted the notice of the people at Norfolk Island I know not if it was night but no boat returning suspicion was at length excited. A boat was ordered out this time with a strong Guard (I presume that the gallant Captain by this time made the discovery that it was better to hurt the feelings of Convicts than to allow them to run away whenever they liked) on reaching Phillip Island those in the boat of course found that their fears were not unfounded they took in the discomfited Officers and returned. As for the runaways they were by this time too far on their road to render pursuit of any avail and I have not as yet

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learned that anything has been heard of them. They are now advertised as absent in the Government Gazette and have no doubt safely escaped.

This reminds me of an attempt something similar made whilst Major Bunbury was Commandant. 22 One favorable afternoon a party were employed dragging the Seine in front of the Prisoners Barracks several of the Officers being present. The net had just been hauled on shore when a party of five rushed the boat. The Prisoners who were in her were no doubt previously warned of the attempt which was to be made and prepared to act their part for they allowed themselves to be bundled out of the boat without even a show of resistance. A large number of convicts who were working hard by also remained looking quietly on. The fellows having now obtained possession of the boat instead of attempting to go out by the Passage where they would have been exposed to the fire of the beach guard faced the surf immediately in front of the Prisoners barracks and strange to say crossed it in safety. The Alarm was by this time spread & the Garrison under arms. In a very few minutes the two fastest boats were manned Launched and with a strong Guard and officer in each in chase of the Runaways and a Party of Military hurrying to a point by which it was evident the boat would pass prepared to fire the moment she should come within range thereby obliging her to make a considerable detour whilst the boats in chase could pull in a straight line. After pulling about two miles the leading boat was close enough to commence firing and at the first shot the Runaways threw down their oars and stood up to shew that they surrendered. They were now taken in tow and brought on shore. Major Bunbury was in his office to which they were taken where they were instantly tried and I need not say convicted within half an hour they were undergoing their punishment. The sentence of the Court was "That they should each receive three hundred Lashes". I was not in the settlement when this occurred but out in the Bush grafting Oranges on the Lemon Trees I that day grafted and budded about two hundred. Here ends my notes on Norfolk Island.