1849 - Hursthouse, C. An Account of the Settlement of New Plymouth - CHAPTER VI: Character of the Roadstead..

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CHAPTER VI.

IT is well observed that the roadstead of New Plymouth has not so good a character as it deserves, -- a circumstance not very difficult to explain. In the commencement of the colonisation of New Zealand, public attention was strongly drawn to the first accounts from the various infant settlements established by the Company. One of the first things known in England respecting the Settlement of New Plymouth was the wreck of the third vessel despatched to it; and as the bad first impressions thus made, were soon afterwards confirmed by the report of the danger of the emigrant ship Oriental, the roadstead was condemned as highly dangerous, --a mistake which has not yet been thoroughly rectified, by the fact of the safety of every ship which has since visited the Settlement. The best roadstead is not generally so well liked by sailors as even a bad harbour, where, once in, they can so much more easily go ashore; and, owing to this natural preference, masters of coasters who, as a class, are best acquainted with the place, have frequently damned

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it with faint praise, even when they have had every reason to give it an excellent character. But perhaps the chief reason why the real character of this roadstead is not more generally known, may be found in the fact of most of the inhabitants being farmers; who, well aware that they can boast the finest land, and that Taranaki is first in agriculture, take less interest in any question relative to the roadstead and improvement in the shipping facilities of the place, than, from the great importance of the subject, it might reasonably be expected. When they have looked at the sea, they may have observed it smooth, and if at intervals any flying rumours have reached them that a vessel has lost an anchor, or met with difficulty in discharging, the circumstance has soon been forgotten in the overwhelming importance of a crooked furrow or a lost bullock.

The following short account of the New Plymouth roadstead, which has been submitted to the harbourmaster and the pilot, may tend to remove some misconception respecting it.

Ships bound to New Plymouth, approaching from Cape Egmont with a light wind, should keep well off shore, to avoid getting becalmed. The Outer Sugar Loaf, in south latitude 39 deg. 3 min. 48 sec, east longitude 174 deg. 47 min., may be called the west-south-west mark of the roadstead, and can be passed within a cable's length. The best, anchorage for large vessels is in 13 fathoms, with the Outer Sugar Loaf, or Saddle Back, bearing

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south-west by west-half-west; and the flag-staff east south-east. The water shoals to about three fathoms at low water, within half a mile of the landing place. The bottom, for the most part, is sand over rocks, consequently the holding ground is bad; and the safe character of this roadstead is attributable to its open position, to fine weather, and to the prevalence of certain winds.

"North-westers" raise a heavy sea and surf; but these are of comparatively rare occurrence. Southeast, off the land, south-west, to west-south-west along the land, broken by the Sugar Loaves, are the prevailing winds. With the first, the roadstead is as smooth as many harbours; with the others, ships can generally ride with ease; and, from the observations of seven years, it may be safely said, that there are not more than fifty or sixty days in the year when vessels could not discharge in perfect safety. The weather here has one almost invariable course; for instance, with the wind from the usual quarter, south-east to west-south-west, it is generally bright and fine; when a change occurs, the mountain becomes hidden, and the wind shifts gradually by east, north-east, and north-west, round to its old quarter, --squally at first, then lighter, and fine weather again sets in. It should be well noted that in this change, the wind moves steadily on from the fine-weather quarter round to north-west, and thus gives ample warning.

On the approach of a "north-wester," a ship, to

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avoid any risk of losing an anchor, should stand out a few miles, steering about west by south, so as to make a fair wind of the south-west breeze, which, invariably soon follows; and she might generally return to her anchorage the following evening. 1

Mount Egmont, usually clear, and the Sugar Loaves, always to be seen fifteen miles off, are such excellent landmarks, that a strange vessel could not mistake the place. The Sugar Loaves are three rocky pinnacles two and a half miles south-west of the town; the first, about 400 feet high, is on the main land; the second rises from the sea nearly three quarters of a mile off; and the third is about the same distance still further out. There is a good deep passage between the outer ones. 2 With the exception of a small reef, about a quarter of a mile south of the flag-staff, running out half a mile in a northerly direction, and the one as shown in the present map, but which is out of the way of shipping, there is not a single obstruction in the roadstead. Neither is the place embayed, but stands boldly out, so that any vessel anchored in the right position, yet, by gross negligence, caught in a "north-wester," would clear the outer Sugar Loaf,

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and, if necessary, weather Cape Egmont, twenty-five miles distant, bearing by compass from the anchorage south-west by south; when, of course, she could either lie-to, or, if bad weather were likely to continue, in six hours fetch Port Hardy. If, whilst a vessel was discharging here, the wind veered suddenly from any smooth water-point to west, and blew a gale, this would then be a bad lee-shore, and the ship, if a dull sailer, would probably not succeed in beating off; but as, for seven years, no instance of such a shift has occurred, it is reasonable to suppose that it never will occur.

Heavy moorings were laid down by the Company in 1842, which were of great service for two years; but, having never been raised for examination, they got out of order, and as the Theresa was lying at them in March 1844, a shackle parted in the night when the ship was in considerable danger by drifting in shore, --they have not since been replaced. Government maintains a boat-establishment, superintended by the harbour-master and the acting pilot, who boards all large vessels before they anchor, and, if required, takes charge. The cargo-boats carry from four to five tons; their construction is capable of improvement, and the whole establishment could easily be made more efficient; but, in its present state, cargo is generally discharged with despatch.

The customs' records show that 259 ships, of the burthen of 22,834 tons, have visited New Ply-

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mouth, of which only one has been wrecked; 223 of these vessels have partly or wholly loaded or discharged here; but neither in the great boating work which this has caused, nor in whaling or fishing, has there been a single loss of life, since the foundation of the Settlement. The one wreck in these 259 vessels was that of the Regina, a fine schooner of 164 tons, and the third ship direct from England. It appears that she was anchored inside the small reef before named, and so close in shore that in standing out in one of the regular shifts of wind, she struck almost before she was fairly under weigh; the greater part of her cargo was saved. The Oriental, an emigrant ship, was in some danger here. A coaster was once driven ashore, though afterwards got off; and, in the course of seven years, fourteen anchors have at different times been lost. 3 It is worthy of remark, that few of these anchors have been lost through stress of weather. Owing to the rocky nature of the bottom, the chain has generally parted from the strain of weighing; and every vessel anchoring in this roadstead should invariably bend a good, strong, stout, "buoy-rope."

If the simple fact was generally known, that of the 259 vessels which have visited this roadstead,

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at all seasons of the year, but one ship and fourteen anchors had been lost, nautical authorities would probably admit that, as a roadstead, the place merits an excellent character; for it must be distinctly noted that some of these accidents were such as, after seven years' experience, would hardly occur again.

Captains of vessels now coming to New Plymouth can safely rely upon this, --that they may incur some inconvenience, for it is possible that they may be compelled to stand out before the cargo is discharged; but, on the other hand, they will probably meet with good despatch, and, by taking the pilot, there will be less chance of actual danger to the ship than would be incurred in entering many excellent harbours. 4

The best measures for the improvement of this roadstead, and for increasing the facilities for shipping, would be these: --

I. Laying down moorings.
II. Improving the boat establishment.
III. Licensing the acting pilot.

First. As regards fine weather, and the actual

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safety of the ship, this roadstead is second to none; but from the nature of the anchorage--chiefly sand over rocks--vessels are liable occasionally to lose an anchor in weighing. Moorings would be signally useful in removing this risk, and in enabling ships either to hang out a gale, or to slip at any moment of its duration. They would have to be annually examined. In order to make this examination, the most effectual plan would be to build a "lump," or lighter, expressly for the service. By a "Plan for Moorings," suggested by the pilot, a set to hold ships of 500 tons (using certain parts of the original set) could be laid down for about 300l. The lighter, to be built here, and which might be serviceable in landing cattle, would probably cost 200l. A set of light moorings, laid close in shore for coasters, would also be extremely useful.

Secondly. What is most needful here is a good boat's crew. Except the coxswain, there are no regular men, and when a ship arrives, as the best hands are frequently engaged elsewhere, their places are supplied by any motley crew which the coxswain may succeed in pressing. It has been proposed that the boats should be manned by the police force; but this is a duty which they would not perhaps willingly perform: they are better employed in coasting, road-making, or bridge-building; and they are not fit for a service which requires good rowers, and men handy in a boat. A good crew makes a greater difference in the despatch

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which a vessel meets with than would be supposed; and six of the best men, to keep a look-out and perform all Government work, could be secured for 10s. or 12s. per week. The boat establishment in other respects is less efficient than when it was in the hands of the Company. It is unnecessary to describe the many little things requisite for its completeness, but an allowance of 50l. per annum would supply them, and keep the establishment in so high a state of efficiency, that the landing of goods and shipment of flour without damage could always be insured.

Thirdly. A stranger captain coming here, and finding the pilot without a license, would naturally suppose, either that the authorities considered a pilot unnecessary, or that the person so acting was not duly qualified; consequently, he might decline to give him charge of the ship. Owing to this, the Madras lost a valuable chain and anchor, and the Guide (brig) running from the place in a northwester, instead of merely standing out for a few hours, was totally wrecked near Nelson. These accidents not only entailed a serious loss of property, but were most injurious in bringing the place unduly into disrepute.

The improvements here suggested would require an outlay of about 500l. with an annual expenditure of say 300l. This may appear a large sum; but, as it is generally acknowledged, that if New Plymouth possessed a harbour it would be superior in most

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natural advantages to any other settlement, the Government and the Company can estimate the importance of doing that which, at no extravagant cost, would to some extent supply the deficiency of a harbour.

The roadstead must always be the best place for large ships; but for vessels of from fifty to seventy tons the Waitera River would form an excellent port. Even now, without marks or buoys, coasters enter it to refit. There are from ten to twelve feet on the bar at high water; a considerable depth inside for three miles up; and great natural facilities exist for the construction of wharfs and quays.

Could the noble harbour of Auckland be combined with the fertile plains of Taranaki, the result would be a "site," position and climate considered, perhaps unequalled in the colonies; but in New Zealand it appears impossible to find a first-rate port combined with a district pre-eminent for fertility and other agricultural advantages. In the latter respect, however, New Plymouth has no rival; whilst it must be evident that, in possessing a safe roadstead for large ships, with capabilities for a river harbour for smaller vessels, it is at least equal in natural facilities for shipping to various places in the world which enjoy a very considerable and important trade.

In connection with this subject, and as a proof of the misconception which exists in England respect-

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ing this roadstead, it may be observed that the Company's regulation, by which the ships despatched under their sanction were to call at New Plymouth, was generally evaded. It will probably be admitted, that vessels incur no danger by touching here with moorings, no risk of losing even an anchor; whilst from its position near the entrance to Cook's Strait, it is naturally the first settlement at which an English ship would call. The cargo for New Plymouth should be stowed last, when there would be so little detention that the delivery of the Nelson and Wellington goods would seldom be retarded more than eight-and-forty hours.

It is not, however, for the more speedy delivery of bales and cases that it is so desirable to have the English ships call here--they bring a much more important kind of cargo; namely, passengers who may become settlers. An emigrant farmer resolves to see one or two of the principal settlements before he decides in favour of any, or to settle in the Taranaki district should the country satisfy the high expectations which have been raised: the vessel does not call here; he is put ashore, perhaps at Wellington, and however disappointed with that place, he finds the loss of time and annoyance would be so great in making the passage by a small coaster to see Nelson or New Plymouth, that he is almost compelled to remain where he was first landed. In fact, the calling of an English ship confers so many advantages on a young settlement, that

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the New Zealand Company, if desirous of treating all with justice, should not permit the rule they made in this respect to remain any longer a dead letter. 5