1856 - New Zealand Pilot - CHAPTER VII. EAST COAST OF THE MIDDLE ISLAND.

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CHAPTER VII.

EAST COAST OF THE MIDDLE ISLAND.--FROM CAPE CAMPBELL TO THE EASTERN ENTRANCE OF FOVEAUX STRAIT.

VARIATION, 1850,--14 deg. 45' to 15 deg. 30' E.

CAPE CAMPBELL, the N.E. extreme of the Middle island, will be found described at page 120. A reef with a sunken rock off its extreme extends more than a mile to the north-eastward of the cape, and rocky patches extend off the shore almost the same distance for some miles to the southward. Vessels should, therefore, not approach the land in this neighbourhood within 1 1/2 miles, unless coasters acquainted with the dangers.

COAST from CAPE CAMPBELL to KAIKORA PENINSULA.--The coast trends from cape Campbell S.S.W., and is rocky for the first nine miles to the small river Waiharakaka, at the entrance of which is Flaxburn, 1 and where in fine weather, there is landing for boats sheltered by the reefs; there is also temporary anchorage for coasters, with N.W. winds, in 10 and 11 fathoms, a mile from the shore. The coast southward of Waiharakaka is sand and shingle beaches, with rocky points for 22 miles to Waipapa point, and the steep spurs descending from Benmore mountain, which rises over Flaxburn to a height of 4,360 feet, as well as those from the lofty Kaikora mountains to the southward, give to the neighbouring coast a peculiarly bold and rugged appearance.

Immediately south of Waipapa point, which is low and projecting, is Waiau-toa or Big River. The break in the Kaikora and Looker-on ranges formed by the valley of this river has the appearance of a harbour from a distant offing; nearly three miles south of Big river is a boat harbour and fishery; two white streaks in the wooded cliffs point out the landing place.

KAIKORA PENINSULA is a hummocky tongue of land 350 feet high, projecting two miles at right angles from the coast, and lies 20 miles southward of Waipapa point, and 50 miles from cape Campbell. Reefs extend more than half a mile off the northern points of the peninsula, among which boats find shelter, and there is a whaling establishment on this part of the shore.

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There is a coasting anchorage in Half Moon bay to the northward of the peninsula, with southerly winds, in 12 fathoms, but reefs awash extends more than a mile off the shore from the northern side of the neck. On the south side of the peninsula there is good anchorage, with N.W. winds, in 9 fathoms sand and shells, little more than half a mile from the shore. In approaching this anchorage the southern extreme, Haul-round point, should be given a berth of half a mile, as a reef extends for some distance from it, and a rock awash lies half a mile off the next point to the westward, so that after passing Haul-round point a vessel should not haul up to the northward of west, until abreast of it, or until having run about three quarters of a mile.

On this part of the coast a southerly current of a knot an hour is experienced after southerly winds have been blowing.

Between cape Campbell and Kaikora peninsula rise the lofty and snow-clad mountains known as the Kaikora and Looker-on ranges: the former are midway between these two points, and 14 miles from the coast; they are 9,700 feet high, rising in sharp and rugged peaks: the Looker-on range are 13 miles north of the peninsula, and 7 miles inland, of the same character, and 8,700 feet above the sea.

AMURI BLUFF,--For 11 miles southward of Kaikora peninsula is a continuous bight, the south point of which is Amuri Bluff: this bight is about 2 miles in depth, and has several outlying rocks nearly a mile from the shore: a reef 6 feet above water lies 2 miles northward of this bluff. Small coasters can moor in safety within these reefs. There is very deep water off Amuri Bluff, 184 fathoms being obtained only 2 miles from the shore.

WAIAU-UA RIVER is 14 miles southward of Amuri bluff, and is available for boats in fine weather; the coast line between is almost straight, cliffy, and backed with terrace land; midway, and two miles inland, a mountain rises 1,900 feet above the sea.

GORE BAY.-- Southward of Waiau-ua river is Gore bay, merely a slight indentation in the coast; rocks extend off the shores more than half a mile, nearly to the Hurunui river, which is 9 miles from Waiau-ua river, and with it rises in the Wakarewa and Te-koa mountains, which are between 5,000 and 6,C00 feet high, and distant 30 miles inland; the Hurunui river is also only fit for boats.

SAIL ROCK lies close off a projecting cliffy piece of coast 4 miles southward of Hurunui river; 8 miles further to the S.W. is Motunau, or the Table island of Cook, which like Sail rock, has a white appearance in bright weather.

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TABLE ISLAND (Motunau) is small, lying three quarters of a mile from the shore, and almost connected with it by reefs; there are also, reefs extending nearly a mile to the eastward and southward, and a rocky patch, with 4 fathoms, 2 miles S.W. by S. of it. The island affords shelter for boats.

From Table island the coast recedes to the westward, becomes low and sandy, and forms Pegasus bay, the south side of which is Banks peninsula; the shores of this bay form the sea face of the northern portion of the great southern or Canterbury plains.

PEGASUS BAY is nearly 40 miles in extent, north to south, and 15 miles in depth; its northern shore, from Table island to Double, (or the N. W.) Corner, a distance of 12 miles, is cliffy, with a sand and stoney beach at low water; 4 miles westward of the island are two shallow patches, extending a mile from the shore, they should be avoided, and are the only dangers in Pegasus bay.

The depth of water across the entrance of Pegasus bay is 20 fathoms, which shoals gradually in to 6 and 7 fathoms a mile from the sandy beach; this regular change in the soundings, and the distance they extend off this part of the coast in particular, renders the approach to Port Cooper easy at night, or in thick weather.

From Double Corner,--where there is good boat landing in fine weather, --a sandy beach extends for 27 miles or nearly to the entrance of Port Cooper; five rivers run into the sea along this beach after winding through the plains; the three northernmost are dry at their entrances at low water; the next, Courtenay river, (Waimakariri,) has 2 feet on its bar at low water, and is eligible for large boats.

AVON RIVER. (Opawaha)--The entrance of this river lies at the south extreme of the sandy beach of Pegasus bay, and is only 2 1/2 miles N.W. of Godley or Cachalot head, the north entrance point of Port Cooper; as a means of conveying cargo between that seaport and the plains it is of great importance to the Canterbury settlement, and in moderate weather is accessible to vessels drawing from 8 to 10 feet water. The bar is one-sixth of a mile outside the rocks above water off the southern entrance point, it is 400 feet in width, composed of fine sand, and has a depth in the channel of not less than 5 feet at low water springs, shoaling gradually from either side.

The entrance of the river lies at first in a southerly direction, and when a quarter of a mile within the bar it bends rather suddenly to the westward; the narrowest part of the channel, which is at the elbow, is 150 feet wide, but on passing it where a vessel would turn, there is a space of

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400 feet with not less than 9 feet at low water, and in the channel to the Shag rock 10 to 11 feet.

The river takes its rise in a swamp in the plains, and being unconnected with the mountain ranges is less liable to changes from sudden and rapid streams, the greatest strength of current does not exceed from 5 to 6 knots; The highest water on the bar would be 12 feet at springs and 9 to 10 at neaps, the range of tide being from 7 to 5 feet.

By taking advantage of moderate weather, which can always be judged of, before leaving Port Cooper, the bar may be crossed without risk of loss or damage to cargo in a decked vessel of the draught before mentioned, but the most suitable description of craft would be a short paddle wheel steamer, indeed such a vessel is a necessary adjunct to the prosperity of the settlement.

The greatest difficulty of this river appears to be the getting out, and the danger of being set through the rocks at the entrance, but it is found that by keeping close to the north spit a vessel will be set clear of them, and out into the channel. It would of course be necessary for a person navigating the river to have local knowledge of the entrance, and doubtless leading marks will be erected, and a pilot established without delay; under favourable circumstances the bar may be crossed by open boats with perfect safety.

SOUNDINGS between CAPE CAMPBELL and BANKS PENINSULA.--It will have been observed that from cape Campbell to Banks peninsula, a distance of 130 miles, there is no place of shelter, with the exception of temporary anchorages in fine weather under Kaikora peninsula, and also that there are no dangers along that line of coast, extending more than a mile from the shore; large vessels, however, are not recommended to approach nearer than 3 miles, at which distance, between cape Campbell and Kaikora peninsula, the depth of water is 30 fathoms, and at the distance of 10 miles from the shore 80 fathoms will be found. Southward of Kaikora peninsula the water deepens suddenly, and at the distance of 5 miles from the land there is nearly 200 fathoms; while 22 miles farther south, abreast of Waiau-ua river, there is only 30 fathoms at the same distance. When in the parallel of Hurunui river, or approaching the northern end of Pegasus bay, the bank of soundings extends 23 miles off the coast, at which distance from 60 to 65 fathoms, fine grey sand, will be found.

TIDES and CURRENTS.--The flood tide sets to the northward, the ebb to the southward, at the rate of nearly one knot an hour on this part

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of the coast, independent of which, a southerly set will generally be experienced.

BANKS PENINSULA. 2--This singular projection contains, with the exception of Otago, the only harbours on the eastern side of the Middle island. Until a recent period, it was laid down on the charts as a peninsula connected with the main land, by a low and narrow neck only; it is, however, in reality a mass of rugged and in parts densely wooded mountains, generally about 2,000 feet high, falling rapidly to the plains from which the promontory projects; and bounded by a coast line which is exceedingly broken, and indented with numerous bays and coves. It extends from the main land in an easterly direction 20 miles, and maintains an uniform breadth of 17 miles; on its southern side is the Waihora lake, an extensive but shallow sheet of water, which washes the base of the mountains to their junction with the plains, a distance of 8 miles; this lake is only separated from the sea by a strip of low shingle, scarcely half a mile wide.

From the remarkable appearance of this apparently isolated land, there is no possibility of a vessel mistaking her position; and the navigator will derive considerable confidence in approaching at night, as the bank of soundings extends 25 miles from the coast, a feature almost peculiar to this part of New Zealand.

The principal harbours are Port Cooper, or Coopers bay, and Akaroa; there are also Levy and Pigeon bays, snug anchorages; besides several smaller ones, which though exposed for ships, offer shelter for boats passing from one harbour to another, or for those employed in the shore whaling establishments.

PORT COOPER 3 (Tewhaka) lies on the N.W. side of Banks peninsula, its entrance being 2 1/2 miles from the south end'of the sandy beach of Pegasus bay; it runs in a S.W. by W. direction 7 miles. The town of Lyttleton is situated on the north shore, 4 miles from the heads; above it there is only sufficient depth of water for small coasters.

The entrance of the port is one mile wide, and it maintains the same width as far as the anchorage off Lyttleton; the entrance heads are bold and steep-to, and have 8 fathoms between them, which depth decreases gradually to 3 1/2 fathoms at the anchorage; there are no dangers on either side in working up.

Port Cooper is easy of access in most weathers, except in S.W. gales, which draws out with great violence. It is somewhat open to easterly

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winds, but gales from that quarter are not of frequent occurrence, N.W. and S.W. being the prevailing winds. With strong northerly winds a considerable swell rolls into the harbour; the holding ground however is so good, that with proper tackle, and in the right anchorage, there is no danger of drifting: ships that have done so, generally had their anchors foul from not mooring, which it is necessary to do. 4

Immediately within Toloa head, the south entrance point, there is a small bay (Whalers Retreat) which whale ships formerly frequented for water, &c; but it is open to northerly winds. Three miles farther up, on the same side, is a deep cove, which is too shallow for anything but boats.

Quail island, connected at low water with the main land, also lies on the southern side of the port, opposite Lyttleton and 1 1/2 miles distant from it. Midway between this island and the town, the Shag reef will be seen; vessels of large tonnage should anchor full three quarters of a mile outside this reef, with the eastern point of Erskine bay,--in which the town stands,--in a line with the Custom house, bearing N.N.W. 3/4 W.; this berth will be in 3 1/2 fathoms at low water, with good holding ground, muddy sand, and at a distance of little more than half a mile from the jetty. The eastern or outer end of the town should not be opened out.

Small vessels, for the convenience of loading or discharging cargo, may anchor in 15 feet abreast the Custom house, a quarter of a mile from the shore.

There is very little tide felt in this and the adjacent harbours. It is high water on full and change at 3h 50m; the springs rise 7 1/2 feet, and the neaps 4 feet.

PORT LEVY, or LEVY BAY. 5 (Koko-rarata) is close to the eastward of Port Cooper, the south head of the latter (Toloa) forming its western entrance point; the port runs in a due south direction for little more than 3 miles, and is three quarters of a mile wide at the entrance, narrowing gradually within; it is free from dangers, with the exception of some straggling rocks which extend about half a cable's length off its western shores, and which in working in, must be avoided. The soundings

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decrease from 8 fathoms at the entrance to 3 1/2 fathoms 1 1/2 miles within, where a vessel should anchor; the holding ground is good, but the port is open to northerly winds; whale ships, however, which in the early settlement of the colony used to frequent both this port and Pigeon bay, have ridden out a whole winter's gales in them. The upper part of the harbour is shallow, and only fit for small coasters.

Toloa head is bold and perpendicular. Baleine point, the eastern entrance point, is rocky but not high, and has a rock above water extending about half a cable's length off it; there is also a rock lying off the point, a quarter of a mile farther to the eastward, between which and the shore there is a boat passage. A detached conical rock, with a sunken rock, a short distance outside it, lies l 1/2 cables' lengths off shore one mile to the south-eastward of Baleine point.

PIGEON BAY, 6 (Waharoa) which is very similar in feature to Port Levy, and situated 2 3/4 miles to the S.E. of it, runs in a parallel direction for nearly four miles, being separated from it by a ridge of hills between 1,500 and 2,000 feet high. It is equally easy of access; but the deep water runs farther up, as vessels may anchor in 3 1/2 fathoms, 2 1/2 miles within the entrance.

Sinclairs Farm is in a bay in the S.W. corner of the port, and 12 feet will be found half a mile off it at low water. 1 3/4 miles from the entrance, on the western side of the harbour, is a deep ravine, with a good stream of water, and anchorage off it in 5 1/2 fathoms, with good holding ground. The eastern entrance point, Wakaroa, has some rocks lying nearly a cable's length off it, but otherwise it is entirely free from dangers. This port was a favourite resort of whale ships.

Between Pigeon bay and the eastern extreme of Banks peninsula, a distance of 15 miles, there are several small bays and bights, the principal of which are Akaloa, Oken, and Bone bays; they are each little more than a mile in depth, and about a half mile in width; the coast between them is steep and iron bound.

AKALOA is a double bay, rocks extending from the middle head to the N.W. almost closes the western portion. The eastern bay runs in a southerly direction nearly two miles, and is narrow, but has 4 fathoms a mile within. The eastern head is a remarkable steep and projecting point.

The SAIL ROCKS are a detached cluster standing a third of a mile off the coast, near the cast point of Oken bay; in their immediate vicinity the coast line becomes low, which adds to their sail-like appearance when seen as an extreme of the land.

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BONE BAY is nearly at the eastern extreme of Banks peninsula, being two miles north of East head. It runs in a west direction, and has anchorage nearly a mile within the entrance in 4 fathoms:--the south entrance point, being a perpendicular cliif from 300 to 400 feet high, is appropriately named Steep head. Neither of these bays can be considered as eligible for anything but small vessels, and they are exposed to easterly and N.E. winds.

From Putakolo head, which is high, cliffy, and a mile south of East head, the coast rounds away to the southward and westward, and, like that to the northward, is much broken and indented. The depth of water a mile off shore, from Port Cooper to Bone bay, is from 9 to 10 fathoms sand bottom; to the southward the soundings increase to 12 and 20 fathoms at the same distance.

On the southern side of the peninsula, 11 miles from East head, is the entrance to Akaroa harbour: the intermediate coast is rocky and indented with numerous narrow but deep bays; the projecting points are cliffy with straggling rocks near; among the latter, 5 miles E.N.E. from Akaroa, is a remarkable columnar rock, known as Pompey's Pillar.

AKAROA HARBOUR 7 penetrates Banks peninsula in a northerly direction more than 8 miles, its inner part approaching within 4 miles the head of Pigeon bay; it is a magnificent port, affording secure and landlocked anchorage to any number of vessels, and is easy of access in moderate weather;--during strong south-west winds there is a heavy cross sea at the entrance, with violent baffling squalls, caused by the high precipitous nature of the shores; at such times entering with a sailing vessel is attended with some degree of danger.

The heads are bold and steep; off Trueni point (the eastern), at a distance of 2 cables' lengths from the shore, lies Boat rock, a black rock, 20 feet high, having the appearance of a boat from a distance. Iron head (Timatim), the western entrance point, is a high perpendicular cliff, of a dark grey colour; detached rocks 15 feet high extend to the southward of it, and others outside them, on which the sea breaks, extend nearly 3 cables' lengths from the shore. ,

The entrance is nearly a mile in breadth, and continues so to Cavern head, a steep cliff on the eastern shore, 1 1/2 miles within; here it is somewhat less in breadth, but immediately afterwards increases to 1 1/4 miles, which it carries to the anchorage, in Pakaeriki bay, on the eastern shore, nearly 6 miles from the heads.

Vessels should not anchor until above Nine fathom point, which is

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2 1/2 miles inside the heads; outside this there is generally a swell, the depth from 14 to 10 fathoms, and the holding ground not good: above this point the depth decreases gradually from 9 to 6 fathoms, and in Pakaeriki bay there is excellent anchorage in 4 fathoms at low water, little more than half a mile off the settlement. 8 A reef of rock, awash at high water, extends little more than a cable's length off Observation head, the south or outer point of this bay; otherwise there are no dangers.

There is an extensive sheet of water above Pakaeriki bay, with good anchorage in every part, in not less than 3 fathoms at low water; a remarkable peninsula projects from the head of the harbour three quarters of a mile in a southerly direction, connected by a long narrow neck.

Onoui bay, to the westward of the peninsula, is shallow within Massacre head, but the three bays to the eastward are available for vessels of 12 or 14 feet at low water. A road extends from this head of Akaroa harbour to Port Cooper.

Wood and water are to be obtained in abundance at Akaroa; there are streams running into all the bays.

It is high water on full and change at 3h 24m, and the tide ranges from 6 to 8 feet; its influence is very little felt in the harbour.

The winds generally draw either up or down, and vessels should not attempt to leave with a strong southerly wind.

From AKAROA to the westward.--Leaving Akaroa harbour, the coast takes a westerly direction, and at the distance of 7 miles its cliffy outline is broken by Peraki cove, which is similar in character to the small bays on the northern side of the peninsula; it is a snug anchorage with off shore winds; a single whale ship, carefully secured, has ridden out a winter's southerly gales in it; these gales are not unusual, and blow with great violence.

Three miles westward of Peraki completes the circuit of this singular promontory, and its rugged and imposing coast line is succeeded by a low cliffy and shingle shore, 70 miles in extent.

The NINETY-MILES BEACH,--to preserve the name given to this line of coast since it was first visited by Europeans,--commences, as has been observed, from the S.W. extreme of Banks peninsula; for the first 15 miles it is a narrow strip of shingle beach scarcely half a mile wide, forming the sea boundary of Waihora lake; at its southern end it communicates with the sea through a narrow opening in the shingle,

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this, however, is closed for a great part of the year; from hence the coast trends S.W. 55 miles, and is composed of low cliffs from 20 to 40 feet high, fronted with a shingle beach.

Several rivers struggle their way to the sea through this beach, after traversing the plains from the base of the hills 25 miles inland; these rivers are not eligible for anything but boats, and their depth and velocity vary according to the seasons.

TIMARU.--At the extreme of the Ninety-miles beach, a slight rocky projection from the coast occurs (Timaru), where there is an old whaling station; 9 the mountain ranges approach here near the coast, and, instead of the low level country further north, the land consists of grassy slopes, ascending gradually to the higher ranges. Seven miles N.E. of Timaru, two isolated clumps of trees will be seen a little more than 3 miles inland; the Wanganui river runs between them, and they are remarkable as being the first wood seen on the coast south of Banks peninsula.

The rocky coast character of Timaru extends to the southward nearly 5 miles, when the low cliffs fronted by shingle beach, again occur, and trend south for nearly 30 miles to Waitangi river, with several smaller streams intervening. The Hunters hills, a range 3,500 feet high, approach within 8 or 10 miles of the coast between Timaru and Waitangi river.

WAITANGI RIVER is a very considerable stream, flowing through a plain of some extent in a west direction, though only 10 or 12 miles in width; its entrance may be known by the low tongue of land it appears to have thrown out from the hills near. It is fed by the numerous lakes and mountain ranges in the interior, and the velocity in summer, during the melting of the snows, is so rapid as to render it unfit even for boats to enter. This river may be said to form a natural boundary between the Canterbury and Otago settlements.

From Waitangi river the coast trends S.S.W, for 25 miles, to the Look-out bluff. The low cliffy coast with shingle beach continues for 15 miles or as far as the first rocky head, a projecting bluff of moderate height, from thence it assumes a different aspect, being broken into sandy or shingle bays, with cliffy points between. For nearly 30 miles southward of the river, and extending for the most part as tar inland, the country is a rich grazing district.

MOERANGI BAY.--Look-out bluff (Awa-mokihi) is the north point of this bay, Whalers Home point being its southern extreme. The bay is 5 miles

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in length north and south, and about 2 miles in depth, the coast line being fronted with a sandy beach; a reef nearly 3 miles long, covered with kelp, extends nearly across its entrance from north to south; this reef is 11 miles distant from the sandy beach, and is a great protection to the bay, affording smooth water and a safe refuge inside it for the boats of a whaling establishment situated at its southern end; there is also anchorage for coasters, though it would not be prudent to remain with any symptoms of bad weather from the eastward.

Whalers Home point is the eastern extreme of a cliffy projection, and is nearly 3 miles in length, with sandy coves on its north and south sides, These coves form good boat harbours. A small islet (White islet) and some scattered rocks, under water, covered with kelp lie half a mile off the northern part of this projection; and 1 3/4 miles eastward of its southern extreme, is the Fish reef, which extends in a N. W. and S.E. direction for a mile, and uncovers at low water, being well marked at other times of tide by kelp; this reef has deep water close outside it.

There are several houses on the summit of Whalers Home point occupied by whaling people, who have much land under cultivation.

From Moerangi bay southward, the country is hilly, and wooded close to the coast; a sandy bay extending for 5 miles, the south extreme of which is Vulcan point. Shoal water extends 2 miles south of this point at the extreme of which is Danger reef, a sunken rock, whose position is also marked by kelp. Three very remarkable mountain cones rise just to the southward of Vulcan point two to three miles from the coast.

WAIKOUAITI BAY 10 is 17 miles southward of Whalers Home point and 10 miles north of Otago harbour. It has a clean sandy beach of 2 miles in extent, its southern point being formed by Mistaken islet, close to the northward of which is the entrance of a small river. There is anchorage in the bay with off-shore winds, 5 fathoms will be found within half a mile of the shore.

BLUE SKIN BAY, between Waikouaiti and Otago, is nearly 5 miles in depth; some rocks which show, extend off its northern shores for about half a mile; otherwise it is clear of dangers, and has a general depth of from 7 to 10 fathoms. There are several sandy bights on its southern sides, which afford good anchorage in southerly or off-shore winds.

SOUNDINGS OFF COAST.--A general description having now been given of the coast between Banks peninsula and Otago harbour, a distance of 150 miles, a reference to the chart will show that for 120 miles of the

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distance, or as far as Moerangi bay, it is quite free from danger. The bunk of soundings is also well defined; and knowing the latitude, a ship's position on approaching the land may be determined with tolerable accuracy. From 5O to 60 fathoms sand, will be found 30 miles from the coast, and about 30 fathoms at half that distance, which decreases gradually to 10 fathoms at 3 miles from the shore, where the bottom is chiefly gravel and stones. Between Moerangi bay and Otago the only dangers are the Kelp reef, (which lies across the entrance of Moerangi bay,) and Fish, and Danger reefs, all these reefs are either visible or their positions marked by kelp, and do not extend more than 2 miles from the coast.

Southward of Moerangi bay, the deep water approaches nearer to the coast; at the distance of 20 miles there is 60 fathoms sand and coral; and at 30 miles no bottom was found with 400 fathoms line; at 2 miles from the coast there is from 15 to 18 fathoms. Immediately eastward of Otago, the 100 fathom line of soundings does not extend more than 12 miles from the land, and inside that distance it shoals rather rapidly to 30 fathoms, 14 fathoms will be obtained within 2 miles of the entrance.

OTAGO HARBOUR. 11--The approach to this port from the southward is well denoted by cape Saunders and its remarkable insulated mountain, 1,410 feet high; from the northward and eastward it will be known by the gap its entrance makes in the land, as also in hazy weather by a remarkable bank of dazzling white sand heaped at the base of the steep cliffs forming its western entrance head. This bank of sand from a distant offing is frequently mistaken for breakers on the bar.

As Otago is a barred harbour, there are times when it would be imprudent and unsafe to attempt to enter; to denote the state of the bar a code of signals has been established, which are exhibited from Tairoa head under the care of a bold and skilful pilot, 12 whose boat's crew are stationed here, and at all times ready to push out when the bar is passable; from this signal-station a temporary light is shown during the night for the guidance of vessels intending to enter the port, and delayed by the tide, or state of the bar; but this light is only shown when vessels are known to be outside.

The entrance to the port lies north and south. Tairoa, its eastern head, is a bold dome-shaped rocky headland, 244 feet high, with a flagstaff and small wooden building for exhibiting the temporary light on its highest part; from this head the bar extends in a north-westerly direction towards Hayward point, which is the northern extreme of a bluff precipitous headland, forming the western entrance head of the port.

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Within the entrance a spacious sheet of water extends to the south-westward for a distance of 11 miles, and at the head of this arm of the sea stands the town of Dunedin. Seven miles within the heads a prominent headland, with two adjacent and lofty islands extending across the harbour, form a natural division; above which, the channels leading to Dunedin become either too shoal or too narrow for large vessels prudently to proceed farther. A mile eastward of these midway islands the port town of Chalmers has been placed at the head of Koputai bay, where there is good anchorage for large vessels in 5 fathoms; here they discharge cargo, which is conveyed in boats to Dunedin.

On a reference to the plan of this harbour it will be observed that, when within the bar, the ship channel leading to Koputai bay is deep but narrow, extensive sand banks filling up the central space of both divisions of the harbour. 13 This channel is marked by a series of temporary beacons and buoys; but as a stranger should not proceed without a pilot beyond the first anchorage within the entrance, the directions here given will not enter into detail beyond that limit.

THE BAR extends one mile in a north-west direction from Tairoa head: it is composed of hard white sand, and is in parts an extremely narrow ridge, difficult to touch upon with the lead, with a fathom deeper water on either side; the depth of water on it varies, being a little deeper after the winter gales (July and August), which blow from south-west; and is considered by those locally acquainted with it to be gradually shoaling.

In 1849 and 1850 the average depth at low water springs, from careful measurements, were 16 and 17 feet, with patches of 14 and 13 feet at the outer extremity; the deepest and best part for crossing being 2 1/2 cables lengths from Tairoa head.

The harbour should not be approached in a S.E. gale, for these winds set the heaviest sea in on the coast, and produce a frightful surf on the bar, which breaks in 5 and 6 fathoms; neither should the bar be attempted on the ebb tide, unless with a commanding breeze, as it sets strongly towards Hayward point. Light south-easterly winds also, which are generally accompanied by a light sea fog, cause a troubled swell on the bar, which is not the case with those from N.E., to which quarter it is more exposed. A strong north-east wind with the ebb tide makes a broken bar, dangerous for boats, but the swell goes down at all times very quickly, particularly with westerly winds.

Vessels anchoring outside the bar to await the tide should not come

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within 9 fathoms. By bringing the flagstaff on Tairoa head to bear south a little more than half a, mile from the head, the marks will be on for crossing the bar.

In the event of it being necessary to run in, and the state of the bar such as to prevent the pilot crossing it, the following directions should be observed:--The marks for crossing the bar lead 2 1/4 cable's lengths outside Tairoa head. They are, the northern detached sand hillock, on the long sand flat running from the western head, in one with a prominent white house in Portobello bay bearing S.S.W. Portobello bay is 5 miles within the entrance, and the house will be seen over the low southern points of the harbour. If these marks cannot be made out, a distance of from 1 1/2 to 3 cables lengths from Tairoa head must be estimated, as within this space lies the deepest water.

Having passed the bar, which will be immediately detected by the rapid deepening of the water and its smoothness, or when the signal staff bears S.E. by E., haul up for Harrington point, the first rocky point half a mile within Tairoa head, passing it at half a cable's length if convenient, being quite steep-to; or midway between it and the low dry spit of sand on the opposite shore, the width between them being scarcely 2 cable's lengths. A course may then be shaped for the first buoys which are laid down in an inner sand flat leading to the ship channel for Koputai bay, anchoring one or two cables to the northward, or midway between them and Harrington point, in 5 to 8 fathoms. The channel over this inner sand-fiat is constantly shifting, and the buoys are placed to meet the changes; further directions may, therefore, be considered unnecessary.

NORTH CHANNEL.-- It must be observed that in smooth water, with a commanding breeze, there is an available channel within the bar, between it and Hayward point, with from 22 to 25 feet water. Vessels intending to take it should bring the entrance of the harbour between Harrington point, and the low sand spit opposite it, open, on a S.E. 1/2 S. bearing, and sail in on this course. When the signal staff bears E. S. E., they should haul up midway between it and Harrington point, until in the deep channel in 6 fathoms, and then proceed as before directed.

DRIVER ROCK--The only danger outside the line of bar is this rock (named after the pilot), with 7 feet at low water; it lies N.E., 1 1/2 cables length's from the north-east extreme of Tairoa head, and is out of the track of vessels crossing the bar, but dangerous for small vessels hugging Tairoa head on that bearing.

From information derived from the pilot, it is considered that the bar is impracticable for shipping about forty days in the year, and that during the winter months it occasionally has continued so for a fortnight consecutively.

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TIDES.--It is high water on full and change at Tairoa head at 2h 50m; in Koputai bay, at 3h 30m; and at Dunedin, at 4h 30m. The range of spring tides at the heads vary from 5 to 7 feet, and rise sometimes 8 feet; at Dunedin, from 2 to 4 feet. With northerly winds and fine weather there is little flood stream, with a rise not exceeding 2 feet. The greatest strength of the tide is in the narrow passage abreast Harrington point, where the ebb runs from 2 to 3 knots, and the flood somewhat less: on the bar the greatest rate is 2 knots.

There is very little interval of slack water at the entrance of the harbour. The flood runs 5h 20m, and the ebb 7h 0m, the latter beginning 0h 40m after high water, and the former l1h 40m after low water. In the upper part of the port the ebb and flood are of the same duration, the greatest velocity 2 knots on the ebb and 1 1/2 on the flood.

BUOYS---In the channel leading from the first anchorage to Koputai bay, the arrangement of the buoys and beacons are thus:--White,--mark the port side of the channel. Black, or dark Red,--the starboard. Striped, --that there is a passage on either side.

SIGNALS.--The code of signals, which are reported to have been in use since the lst of September 1849, are,--

Flag No. 1.--Blue Peter;--Keep to sea, the bar is not fit to take. No. 2. Red;--Take the bar, there is no danger. No. 3. Blue with white St. Andrew's Cross;--Ebb tide, and the bar not fit to take. No. 4. White;-- First quarter flood.--It is necessary when these flags are shown that they should be answered from the ship, if understood, by a pendant or flag shown where best seen.

COAST FROM OTAGO TO NUGGET POINT. -- From Tairoa head the coast runs S.S.-Easterly for nearly 7 miles to Cape Saunders; this bold and remarkable headland is the south-eastern termination of 1he peninsula which forms the southern side of the port of Otago, and from it the land trends away S. W. by S., in a curvilinear form towards Quoin point, a rounded projection, 30 miles distant. The intermediate coast forms a deep bight, the land being moderately high, and in some parts thickly wooded.

The off-lying rocks and islets in this bight are, first the Gull rock, the outermost of a cluster, standing nearly a mile from a cliffy head, 5 miles S.W. of Cape Saunders. Nearly 7 miles westward of Gull rock, and a mile from the coast, is White islet, and at the same distance from the shore, 5 miles further westward, is the small Green islet. On the coast midway between the two latter islets is Black head, a rather remarkable rocky head, and immediately within rises the well-named Saddle hill of Cook.

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From Black head, the coast line is low, with a shingle and sandy beach, and curves round for 11 miles to Taieri river; this river, which is navigable at its entrance for vessels of from 6 to 9 feet draught, is nearly 25 miles from cape Saunders; its north entrance point projects half a mile to the eastward, and is formed by a small island of the same name. The coast now rounds away to Quoin point, 6 miles southward of Taieri river, and has rocky ledges extending about half a mile off shore. Cook's head, a remarkable rock on the beach, is 4 miles south-westward of Quoin point.

NUGGET POINT, 22 miles from Quoin point and 52 miles from cape Saunders, is the southern extreme of Molyneux bay. It is a bold and projecting headland, the termination of a remarkable razor bucked mountain ridge, with three pointed rocky islets standing nearly half a mile off it.

MOLYNEUX BAY.--Anchorage may be obtained in this bay with off shore winds, in 8 fathoms, about half a mile off the landing place, and the same distance northward of Reef point; this point is little more than 2 miles north of Nugget point, and has a reef of rocks extending three quarters of a mile from it. Coal is found in a cliff on the north side of this bay, 7 miles from the mouth of the Clutha river; on either side of this river are extensive clumps of wood.

CLUTHA RIVER, (Matau) runs into Molyneux bay, 4 1/2 miles northward of Nugget point; this is a considerable river with deep water, and is broad within tbe entrance, but a constant fresh running out at the rate of from 3 to 5 knots, renders the narrow entrance unfit for any thing but boats, when it must be taken at or near high water; the bar is rocky and dangerous, still it is possible that small steamers might navigate the river with advantage.

CURRENT.--Between Cape Saunders and Nugget point, a current of one knot an hour is generally found to set to the northward.

SOUNDINGS.--The 100 fathom line of soundings extends 20 miles from the coast, and decreases regularly towards the shore; at the distance of 2 miles there are 12 fathoms, sand; large vessels, however, are not recommended to stand in nearer than a league.

COAST from NUGGET POINT to FOVEAUX STRAIT. -- From Nugget point the coast trends S.W. by S., 14 miles to Long point; thence S.W. by W., 11 miles to Chaslands Mistake, and from the latter W.S.W., 14 miles to Slope point; southward from Nugget point the coast becomes much broken, with occasional islets and reefs, which, in the absence of any regular anchorage for shipping on this coast, prove of great benefit as places of refuge, to the boats engaged in the whale and seal fisheries. It is not uncommon for whale boats to make the passage from Stewart

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island, or the worth shores of Foveaux strait, to the settlement of Otago a distance of 140 miles, taking advantage of these boat harbours on the approach of bad weather, which on this coast is of frequent occurrence.

Three miles southward of Nugget point is False islet, connected with the main by a sandy neck, and nearly the same distance farther on is the small islet of Tuawike, close to the shore; inside is a boat harbour. White head, a bold cliff, is 1 1/2 miles to the southward of it.

LONG POINT is the next projecting headland; it is similar in character to the Nugget point, but without the rocky islets off it. Two miles to the north-eastward of it is Cosgrove island, inside which there is landing in fine weather; abreast this part of the coast, at the distance of 2 miles from the shore, there is 25 fathoms over a bottom of fine sand, and between 50 and 60 fathoms at the distance of 5 miles; in coming from the northward the influence of the Foveaux strait tide commences to be felt here. The coast now trends more westerly.

TAUTUKU, a sandy bay 6 miles in length, sweeps round from Long point; at the western extreme of this bay is the river of the same name, a rapid stream, sweeping over a bar dry at low water; an old whaling station is at its mouth, and there is anchorage off it in 7 and 9 fathoms with westerly and N.W. winds, but exposed to S.W.; there is also a boat harbour at the eastern end of the bay sheltered by Long point. The land over this part of the coast is a series of irregular hills rising as high as 1,300 feet, with rounded outline, and diminishing both in height and ruggedness of appearance to the northward.

CHASLANDS MISTAKE is a rather remarkable black cleft cliff; it is nearly 11 miles from Long point, and has a high rock standing off the shore a mile to the N.E. of it.

BROTHERS POINT, which has two rocky islets standing off it, is 5 miles westward of Chaslands Mistake, the coast forming a bight between them, in the centre of which is a boat harbour; there is also another boat harbour close to the westward of the point itself.

WAIKAWA RIVER, with 3 fathoms on its bar at low water, but a very narrow entrance, and strong freshes always running out, is 3 miles westward of Brothers point; just to the eastward of its entrance is a white bluff. Small vessels have laid secured to the shore within the river, but exposed to considerable danger from the freshes, as well as the swell from southerly gales.

From the Brothers point, the coast line decreases in elevation, and is backed by a range of undulating hills, apparently well adapted for pastoral purposes. The tide of Foveaux strait slackens considerably off

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this part of the coast, and there is a longer stream to the north-eastward. Five miles westward of Waikawa river is Slope point, the southern extreme of the Middle island; this a low treacherous point, the sea breaks for more than a mile off it; it is only remarkable from the slope summit, rising to 1,300 feet, 7 miles due north of it.

WAIPAPAPA POINT, 7 1/2 miles westward of Slope point, is low and sandy; between Waikawa river and this point, the coast is fronted with numerous rocky ledges, which render it imprudent for vessels to approach within a league; its exposed character and irregular tides render it also unsafe for boats, unless in very fine weather.

Waipapapa Point is the eastern extreme of Totoes bay, it slopes gradually down to the sea, from a mountain summit, fourteen miles to the N.E. of it. The sea is said to break heavily at times five miles off this point, in 7 and 10 fathoms; it should therefore be approached with great caution.

MATAURA RIVER.--Five miles N.W. of Waipapapa point, in the bight of Totoes bay, is the entrance of this river, with only two feet on the bar at low water. It drains a large extent of valuable country, and near its junction with the sea overflows a considerable quantity of the flat land.

Between Mataura river and Waipapapa point, the Papanui, a mountain stream, runs into the bay through a line of cliffy heads. From Mataura river to the Bluff harbour, a distance of 18 miles, the coast line is a low sandy beach backed by an extensive plain, the hilly country terminating at the eastern bank of the river.

GENERAL REMARKS.--It will now have been noticed, that from Otago harbour to Waipapapa point, which latter may be considered as the eastern entrance of Foveaux strait (a distance of about 110 miles), there are no dangers which extend more than a mile from the shore, and very few which do not show; neither can there be said to be any very remarkable features by which the seaman may be enabled to ascertain his exact position. Nugget point and Molyneux bay are conspicuous land marks, particularly the latter, which shows as a deep bight from seaward, the land on either side of it being moderately high. Long point, Chaslands Mistake, Brothers, Slope, and Waipapapa points, though not very remarkable, may, with the assistance of the chart, be recognized at the distance of five miles; the water shoaling also gradually, as it does, within the 100 fathom line, 20 miles from the shore, will enable a vessel to judge her distance from the coast at night with tolerable accuracy.