1856 - New Zealand Pilot - CHAPTER VIII. FOVEAUX STRAIT, AND SOUTH, OR STEWART ISLAND.

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CHAPTER VIII.

FOVEAUX STRAIT, AND SOUTH, OR STEWART ISLAND, INCLUDING THE TRAP ROCKS AND SNARES ISLANDS.

VARIATION IN 1850,--16 deg. East.

FOVEAUX strait separates the Middle from South or Stewart island, and lies in a W.N.W. and E.S.E, direction; the general width is 15 miles; and from Ruapuke island, which lies in the eastern entrance, to the N.W. end of Stewart island, a distance of thirty miles, it has a depth of from 15 to 28 fathoms over a sandy bottom.

Ruapuke island lying nearly in the centre of its eastern entrance, and surrounded as it is in almost every direction by islets, reefs, and tide riplings renders the approach from the eastward, unless in moderate weather, rather formidable to a stranger; there is however a clear passage on either side of it 5 miles in width, and with not less than 12 fathoms water.

The northern shore of the strait also, from Bluff harbour to the western end of Tewywys bay, a distance of nearly 50 miles, is studded with islets and reefs, some of which extend 8 miles from the coast, and are not always visible; but notwithstanding these dangers Foveaux strait has a clear navigating width, westward of Ruapuke island, of never less than 10 miles.

The greatest difficulty the seaman has to contend with, is the extremely boisterous weather which this part of New Zealand is constantly subject to; gales from S.W. to N.W., but more frequently from the latter direction, blow with more or less violence, and without regard to seasons, throughout the whole year, frequently continuing without intermission for many days, and then lulling for a few hours only to return with renewed violence. Vessels passing through the strait to the westward are sometimes weeks getting round the south-west extreme of the Middle island, which is barely a hundred miles from the eastern entrance; it is useless for a sailing vessel to attempt it, unless with a slant of wind, and a vessel bound this way is therefore recommended to remain at anchor in Port William or Patersons inlet,--on the eastern side of Stewart island,--until one occurs; indeed whalers or sealers bound to their fishing grounds, and who visit the ports of Stewart island for refreshments or to refit

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are almost the only vessels that attempt to pass through Foveaux strait to the westward.

There is also another ditficulty to be encountered, which is, a current always setting to the southward round the S.W. extreme of the Middle island; having once rounded this point, a S.W. wind will carry a vessel in a short time into comparatively finer weather, but it is not an uncommon circumstance for a sailing vessel,--her fair wind failing before rounding this extreme,--to be set back by the current, overtaken by a N.W. gale, and obliged again to bear up for Stewart island; which undoubtedly is the wiser course if the gale proves to be severe; it saves much wear and tear, as well as anxiety; and after passing Saddle point of the island, smooth water will immediately be found, Port William always accessible, and anchorage may be had anywhere off the coast between it and Saddle point.

Although the passage through Foveaux strait from the eastward cannot be recommended for anything but steam vessels, it may be convenient for vessels from the westward bound for Otago, or the Canterbury settlements, or indeed from the Australian colonies to England, to make the passage through this strait; and from the westerly winds so constantly prevailing, it could be accomplished with great rapidity and in smooth water, and those ugly dangers, the Trap rocks to the southward of Stewart island, avoided.

SOLANDER ISLAND.--Ships entering from the westward should make this island, which is an excellent landmark, indeed a perfect finger-post to the strait; it lies 22 miles southward of the south coast of Middle island, and W. 1/2 S. 35 miles from the N.W. end of Stewart island; it is nearly a mile in length, rises almost perpendicularly from the sea, and has a remarkable peaked summit 1,100 feet high, which in clear weather can be seen 13 or 14 leagues; adjoining it is a smaller islet lying little more than a mile to the westward.

By arranging to pass Ruapuke island,--distant 68 miles from Solander island,--with daylight, vessels may make this passage without difficulty and often with considerable advantage.

The only port on the northern shore of Foveaux strait eligible for ships of burthen, is the harbour of the Bluff (Awarua); its narrow entrance and very strong tides render it, however, at all times difficult of access to sailing vessels, although the extensive and magnificent plains which stretch from it without interruption for 80 miles to the northward must render it a place of considerable importance as soon as steam navigation is introduced. Besides this anchorage, there are New and Jacobs rivers, the former eligible at certain times of tide, and in fine weather.

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for vessels drawing 13 feet water, and the latter for smaller craft, the bar being nearly dry at low water.

On the southern or Stewart island shore there are several ports which are always accessible and safe, and where vessels may wait for an opportunity of entering Bluff harbour or New river.

Having now offered these general remarks on Foveaux strait, a more detailed description of its coasts, harbours, and dangers will be given.

RUAPUKE ISLAND, as before remarked, lies nearly in the centre of the eastern entrance of the strait, its north point being in a direct line between the low sandy Waipapapa point on Middle island, and Port William in Stewart island, bearing from the former S.W. b. W. 14 miles, and from the latter N.E. b. E. nearly 19 miles. It is a low island of an irregular shape, 4 1/2 miles long in a north and south direction, and about 2 miles in width, and may be seen from a vessel's deck at a distance of 12 or 14 miles; the central part is 140 feet high, and thickly covered with trees of stunted growth; the north point is a cliffy headland, with a hummock over it 220 feet above the sea. The principal dangers lie off the eastern side of the island.

GREEN ISLAND is 1 1/2 miles in circumference, 190 feet high, and has a level outline. It lies nearly a mile east of Observation head, the eastern cliffy point of Ruapuke island; between them is the anchorage.

The SEAL ROCKS, to the north-eastward of Green island, are high out of water, the dry part covering a space of 2 cables lengths; reefs awash extend from them to the westward nearly three quarters of a mile, and also to the south-eastward 4 cables' lengths; between these rocks and Green island there is a clear passage of three quarters of a mile, with from 9 to 15 fathoms water. A sandy ridge connects the Seal rocks with Ruapuke island, on which the sea occasionally breaks in heavy weather.

TOBY ROCK is the most dangerous in the neighbourhood; it is only awash at very low springs, and is not marked by kelp, as most of the dangers here are; it lies directly in a line with the north end of Green island, and the high part of the Seal rocks, bearing N.N.E. 3/4 E. distant 1 1/2 miles from the latter, and E. by N. 3/4 N. 3 3/4 miles from the north head of Ruapuke island.

ANCHORAGE.--Vessels from the eastward, intending to anchor at Ruapuke island, should pass 5 to 6 miles southward of Waipapapa point; and when abreast it, the island will be generally visible. Green island and the Seal rocks will be plainly made out at the distance of 6 or 7 miles, when a course may be steered direct for the former, which will lead clear of all dangers. When within half a mile of Green island, haul round the northern point, giving it a berth of a quarter of a mile in

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11 fathoms, and anchor midway between it and Lee islet, --which latter is close off the N.E. sandy point of Ruapuke,--half a mile from either in 5 1/2 fathoms, sand bottom. Vessels should not go within this line, as there are several rocks and reefs, marked by kelp, extending half a mile from the beach, and which break in bad weather; Weather islet lies half a mile south of the anchorage, midway between Green island and Observation head.

With, westerly or south-westerly winds this anchorage is safe, and has smooth water, but with strong southerly winds a swell rolls in. The Seal rocks and reefs, with Green island, protect it in a measure from easterly winds, but vessels should not lie here with these winds, when better anchorages can be found in the bays on the west side; and with the safe and excellent harbours of Stewart island so near, there could be no inducement for a vessel to ride out a gale here, unless in a case of actual necessity. 1

From this anchorage, there is a passage to sea between the Seal rocks and Ruapuke; vessels going out this way should pass about half a mile from Lee islet, to cross the ridge extending north-westward of the Seal rocks; on which, however, there is not less than 3 1/2 fathoms at low water. A heavy tide race extends a quarter of a mile off the north head of Ruapuke, it is otherwise free from danger.

The landing for boats is close round the Observation bluff, where there are some native houses. There is also a missionary station little more than a mile southward of the bluff in a sandy cove.

BREAKSEA ISLES, two in number, surrounded by rocks, lie 1 1/2 miles off the missionary station, and a mile south of Green island. Two reefs above water, or awash, lie a short distance to the westward and south-westward of these isles.

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Three rocky islets extend for half a mile off the south point of Ruapuke, they are known as the South islets.

KELLY ROCK which is not marked by kelp, and only breaks occasionally, lies nearly a mile S.S.E. of the southern extreme of the South islets, and 1 1/4 miles E. 3/4 S. from a remarkable black rock, the easternmost of the Hazelburgh group.

OUTLYING ISLETS AND ROCKS--Between the south and west points of Ruapuke island is Henrietta bay, and off these points, extending for a distance of four miles in a semi-circular form, are the Hazelburgh group, Half-passage and Fife rocks, and Bird island, together with several smaller patches inside and among them, which generally break; vessels, unless coasters acquainted with the locality, should not go within the line of these islets and rocks. The north-western side of Ruapuke island is perfectly free from dangers, with the exception of Tupis island, which lies close off West point, with a boat passage between, and another small islet lying off the west point of Caroline bay nearly half a mile, besides these there are believed to be none.

CAROLINE BAY, on the N.W. side of the island, is 11 miles south-westward of the north head; it has a depth of 6 and 7 fathoms, with a large kelp patch in the centre, inside of which there is 3 fathoms.

It is to be observed, that although Ruapuke island has so many dangers near it, the greater part of them are above water, Toby and Kelly rocks are alone those that do not show; a strict look-out, however, is indispensable to insure the safety of vessels navigating in its vicinity, and, unless intending to anchor, it is recommended not to approach within 4 miles in any direction, except on its N.W. side, and towards the north head, where it may be safely approached within half that distance.

TIDES.--It is high water on the full and change at Ruapuke island at lh 0m, and the tide ranges from 4 to 8 feet. A mile to the eastward of Toby rock, the easterly or flood stream commences 3 hours after it is low water by the shore, or at 10h 0m on full and change days, and like the westerly, it is of 6 hours' duration, running at the rate of from one to 1 1/2 knots.

EASTERN ENTRANCE of FOVEAUX STRAIT.--Approaching the strait from the eastward, there are passages northward and southward of Ruapuke island; either may be taken, according as the winds or circumstances may render desirable.

NORTHERN PASSAGE.--Passing along the south coast of the Middle island at a convenient distance of 5 or 6 miles, the remarkable and solitary hill called the Bluff will be seen in clear weather 35 miles from a vessel's deck, or when abreast Slope point.

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This singular coast feature which makes like a small islet, is nearly 900 feet high, rising suddenly from the western entrance of, and overlooking the harbour of the same name.

From abreast of Waipapapa point, steer for the Bluff when it bears W. 1/4 N. allowing for the streams of tide which here run east and west (true) about one knot an hour; this course leads 2 miles north of Toby rock, and 3 1/2 miles from Ruapuke island. When the north end of that island bears South about 3 miles, Port William in Stewart island will be distant 21 miles on a S.W. bearing, which leads to the northward and westward of all the islands; if not bound there, but through the strait, steer from the same position off Ruapuke, W.S.W., or for the high range of Mount Anglern, on the northern end of Stewart island; this course will lead a vessel 2 miles to the southward of Dog island, a low dangerous islet lying to the south-eastward of Bluff harbour, with shoal water extending 2 miles eastward of it, where the sea breaks heavily, and in the neighbourhood of which the tides run from one to 3 knots.

When the Bluff summit bears north, a direct W. 1/2 N. course through the strait takes a vessel 4 miles to the northward of Stewart island, 9 or 10 miles north of Solander island, and 12 miles southward of Middle island. In working through Foveaux strait, a vessel should not stand to the northward into less than 20 fathoms, between Bluff harbour and Pahia point, to avoid the reefs in the neighbourhood of Centre island; this will leave a clear working width of 10 miles, though it is not recommended to approach within 3 miles of the White rocks or Rugged islands, at the N. W. end of Stewart island, on account of the heavy westerly swell and tide ripplings which nre generally met with there. The Mid bay reef in Tewaewaes bay, on the north shore, must also be avoided; it lies in a line between the two points of the bay, 4 1/2 miles from the western Sand hill point, and only breaks occasionally.

Should a calm be met with in the strait, if not to the westward of Pahia point, vessels may anchor with a kedge in from 18 to 25 fathoms, and thereby avoid being drifted back with the tide; there is also anchorage in Tewaewaes bay in from 9 to 13 fathoms, but a vessel should leave immediately a breeze springs up. After passing Pahia point, the water deepens to 30 fathoms, and shortly to 60, and the strength of the tides diminishes considerably.

When abreast Solander island, a vessel may shape her course according to circumstances, the current before noticed as setting to the southward, round the south-west extreme of the Middle island, will not be much felt at the distance of 10 or 12 miles from the coast.

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SOUTH PASSAGE.--Vessels from the eastward bound to any of the southern ports of Stewart island, would probably pass to the southward of Ruapuke island, in which case they have only to give it a berth of about 4 miles, and when abreast and 2 miles off Hazelburgh group shape their course accordingly.

If intending to pass through the strait by this passage, the channel, which is 5 miles in width, with from 15 to 18 fathoms, lies between Hazelburgh group, Half passage and Fife rocks,--extending off the S.W. end of Ruapuke,--and the group fronting Port William and Patersons inlet on the eastern side of Stewart island. Having passed about 2 miles southward of Hazelburgh group, and brought the Half passage rock to bear N. b. W., steer N.W. or a mid-channel course, until the Bluff summit bears north; a vessel will then have passed through clear of the islands on both sides, and the course should be altered to W. b. N. 1/2 N. for 18 miles, when Mount Anglem will bear S.S.E., and a cluster of White rocks, 20 feet high, near the shore S.S.W, distant 5 or 6 miles; the channel course then will be west, and 40 miles in this direction should take a vessel abreast of Solander island, and nearly midway between it and the south coast of the Middle island.

TIDES.--The flood tide sets through Foveaux strait from west to east, and is the strongest between Bluff harbour and Ruapuke island; its influence is felt as far as Long point, 45 miles eastward of that island. Between Ruapuke and Stewart islands, it sets to the south-eastward, running parallel with the shores of the latter. The ebb takes an exactly contrary direction.

It is high water full and change, in the western entrance of Foveaux strait, that is, between the north point of Stewart island and Pahia point, at 12h l5m, the flood stream commencing from half an hour to two hours after low water, according to the winds, it being earlier with those From the westward.

Both the ebb and flood streams run for six hours. At the eastern entrance of the strait it is high water at lh Om, the flood stream commencing at 10h 0m, or three hours after low water.

Along the N.E. side of Stewart island, the flood or south-easterly stream runs for an hour and twenty minutes after it is high water at Port William, or until 2h 0m on full and change days. The strength of the tide varies from a half to 2 1/2 knots; in the narrow part of the strait between Ruapuke and the Bluff, it is 3 knots.

WINDS, &c.-- Irrespective of local influences, the prevailing winds on the southern coasts of New Zealand are from N.W. to S.W.; and it is not surprising, when the direction of Foveaux strait is considered, (W.N.W.

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and E.S.E.,) and its comparatively narrow entrance, that it should have a tendency to invite these westerly gales, or what would be no more than an ordinary gale or strong breeze a hundred miles at sea, should blow through them with increased violence. The contrary however occasionally happens, and outside Solander island it will be a strong gale, when within it, and near the mouth of the strait, the weather is quite moderate.

It has been remarked that westerly winds prevail during all times of the year; such is the result of observations made in H.M.S. Acheron during parts of a summer and winter, and likewise of information obtained from several intelligent seafaring men, who have lived for many years in the neighbourhood, some of them owning and commanding whaling schooners built in the country. The following remarks are from both sources.

The fall of the barometer indicates a N.W. wind, and frequently dirty rainy weather; these gales blow with great violence, generally lasting for four or five days together. Thunder, which is not of common occurrence, is said to be a sign that the gale will be of unusually long duration; it frequently continues to blow very hard after the mercury has risen, and with a high barometer, but the wind then generally veers to the southward of west. With a strong westerly or north-westeidy wind in the straits, it is often from S.W. in Port William, or on the eastern shores of Stewarts island, while on the western coasts the N.W. wind generally draws from N.N.W., or even more northerly.

A casual N.E. or easterly wind, with fine weather in the eastern entrance of the strait, almost certainly turns to N.W., as the western entrance is approached. The only wind to be depended upon to carry a vessel through is a south-easter, this wind may be looked for, during summer, about once in six weeks. In the winter season, June, July, and August, it is more prevalent and perhaps occurs twice in that period: it generally lasts from 24 to 48 hours, far more than sufficient to carry a vessel round the S.W. extreme of the Middle island, and into comparatively fine weather, for it is frequently a S.W. wind with fine weather to the northward of the West cape while blowing a N.W. gale with dirty weather, in the strait.

The barometer rises before S.E. winds, and they often blow with great strength. A thick bank of clouds rising to the S.E., with rainy weather, and the tops of the hills clothed with a white mist nearly to the horizon, are considered by those acquainted with the strait as certain indications.

Before a south-easter, also, the groups of islands between Ruapuke and Stewart island appear much raised by refraction, but on going westward,

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should Solander island appear distorted beyond its usual dimensions, a westerly wind will certainly terminate the career of the easterly.

It may be observed that the resident whalemen seldom attempt to work their best vessels through against a westerly wind, and H. M. steam ship Acheron, with a sailing vessel employed as her tender, had abundant evidence of the difficulty of getting to the westward during the survey of the strait in 1851.

ASPECT of COUNTRY.--The remarkable hill or headland which rises immediately over the entrance of the Bluff harbour, and which has been so frequently mentioned in the description of Foveaux strait, forms a conspicuous and striking feature, contrasted with the great extent of level land in its vicinity, and it may be said to be to the eastern entrance of the strait, what the Solander island is to the western, a most useful and unmistakeable land mark. It stands at the S.E. extreme of a narrow and irregular shaped promontory, which forms the Bluff harbour on its southern side, and the entrance to New river on its northern, these two ports being separated from each other by a low neck.

From the summit, which is 800 feet above the sea, a magnificent view may be obtained. Seaward, looking easterly, the coast line is seen nearly as far as Brothers point. To the S.E., Ruapuke island, and the extensive groups of rocks and islands which stretch from it across to Stewart island. To the southward, the shores of Stewart island, from Port Adventure on its eastern side, to Rugged point and isles at its N.W. extreme, including the entrances of Patersons inlet and Port William, with a full and clear view of Foveaux strait and its numerous islets and reefs. To the westward will be seen Solander island, and the whole stretch of coast line of Middle island may be traced as far as the Big river, a distance of 60 miles. Inland, far as the eye can reach, there is an uninterrupted view of either a level or gently undulating country, bounded to the westward by a range of mountains, stretching from the sea near Jacobs river to the high mountain ranges of the great central ridge, and to the eastward by the hills stretching from Nugget point: to the north-westward; due north the level country joins some lofty insulated ridges from 60 to 80 miles distant, and varying in elevation from 5,000 to 7,000 feet. This region is the southern portion of the great lake country of the interior, whose waters are carried off by the Clutha, Mataura, New, Jacobs, and Waiau rivers.

BLUFF HARBOUR (Awarua) is at high water an extensive sheet of water stretching in two arms to the north, and east, respectively four and five miles. The available space for anchorage, however, is narrow and

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confined, and, for vessels of large tonnage, not extending much above a mile from, the entrance in a north-westerly direction. Above this, as well as the whole of the eastern portion, is flat and shallow, the greater part being uncovered at low water. The tides run very strong, during the springs as much as 7 knots; there is also a heavy tide rippling at the entrance, caused by the meeting of the harbour tide with that in the strait.

To enter at the best time, a vessel should be at the heads at or near low water. The Bluff or western shore must be kept on board within less than two cables' lengths, as an extensive bank with shoal water lies off the entrance, leaving a passage of one third of a mile only between its western end and the Bluff coast, with from 5 to 9 fathoms water. Anchorage for small vessels may be had in 5 fathoms abreast Starling's house, which is on the Bluff shore, close to the water, and a short distance within Starling point. In westerly or northerly winds this is a safe and convenient anchorage, but with strong southerly winds a vessel should run higher up.

Large vessels intending to make any stay should anchor a mile above Starling point, within 1 1/2 cables' lengths of the western shore, in 4 fathoms; after passing this point, a mid-channel course may be steered between the two entrance points. There is a patch of rocks, in the narrowest part of the channel, more than a cable's length from the western shore, but the line of shoal water on either side is marked by kelp, which, however, during the strength of the tide is run under. The upper anchorage is secure in all winds.

Dog island lies 2 1/2 miles S.E. by E., from the entrance of Bluff harbour; it is low, and three quarters of a mile in extent; the sea breaks heavily for some distance off its northern and eastern sides. There is a passage of a mile in width, with a depth of 10 fathoms, between it and the bank which extends off the harbour's mouth, and vessels passing inside the island should keep half a mile to the northward of it, and, in order to avoid the western end of the bank, should not haul up for the harbour until the eastern end of the Bluff (Starling point) bears north--and then keep 1 1/2 cables' lengths from that shore, as before directed.

From the scarcity of harbours on this part of the coast, and the position of this one with respect to the great plains which approach so near it, the Bluff harbour will undoubtedly, when the tide of emigration sets in this direction, become a port of considerable importance; although in consequence of its narrow entrance, and great strength of the tides, the access to it must always be attended with a degree of risk to large sailing vessels. To steamers or small vessels, choosing the proper time for

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entering,--which is, the last of the ebb, or before or after the greatest strength of the flood,--no difficulties will present themselves. This harbour will also derive considerable advantage from the ports of Stewarts island being so near, where vessels may lie in perfect security, and wait their opportunity to enter. Port William is peculiarly eligible for this purpose, and in the event of the Bluff country becoming colonized, ships would probably make it their head-quarters. Cargoes might be conveyed across, and communication easily kept up by small vessels; the distance is only 16 miles in a N.N.E. direction, and the prevailing winds favour the passage across both ways; with south-westerly, westerly, or even northwesterly winds when not too heavy, a vessel leaving Port William, at the last quarter of the ebb, would be at the entrance of the Bluff harbour by the first of the flood. 2

From the Bluff, the coast trends N.W. b. W. in two rocky bights, to Steep head, distant 8 miles; the latter is a steep, black, cliffy headland, with a small rocky islet off its extreme, and forms the southern entrance point of New river.

NEW RIVER (0rete) is accessible in moderate weather, at high water, for vessels drawing from 13 to 15 feet water; and from its proximity to so large and fertile a district, will perhaps eventually rival the Bluff harbour as a shipping port. It has afforded shelter to a whale ship in distress, of 500 tons,--the Bombay. The south or outer entrance point is well marked by Steep head and islet; the northern is low and sandy. A bar with 9 and 10 feet at low, and 16 feet at high water ordinary springs, runs across from Steep head to an extensive bank of sand, extending from the North point, which covers at half tide; the bar is narrow, and the water soon deepens within to 4 and 5 fathoms, till the Bombay rock,--4 feet above water,---is reached, and to which the anchorless ship of that name was secured,

The mid channel course in, lies two cables lengths from Steep islet and the south shore. The Bombay rock is 1 1/2 miles inside Steep head, and the width of the river is from 3 to 4 cables' lengths. The course in is E. 1/2 N. gradually hauling up N.E. as the rock is approached; passing north

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of it, anchorage may be had, in 3 fathoms at low water, a long cable's length from the northern shore, with the low sand hills of the north entrance point,--bearing W.N.W. The entrance of New river being rather exposed to the prevailing westerly winds with a tide of 2 to 4 knots, renders its bar often unsafe to take, and a local knowledge would seem to be generally necessary for its navigation.

Compared with the Bluff harbour as a port for shipping, it has the advantage of access to the interior, while the tides are not nearly so strong, the Bluff however is a better port, and, being without a bar, is accessible for vessels of any tonnage. New river was ascended by a whale boat from H.M.S. Acheron for a distance of 25 miles, through a low rich grazing country, wood scarce and in clumps.

COAST WESTWARD of NEW RIVER.--From New river the coast trends in a long sandy beach to the N.W. 15 miles, when it curves round to Howell point, and forms a shallow bay or bight just within it. In this bight, a mile and a half N.W. of that point, is the entrance of Jacobs river, the bar of which is nearly dry at low water, but vessels of 7 or 8 feet draught enter at high water. There is also anchorage in Howell road about a mile off the river's mouth, where vessels may wait for the tide to enter, but they should not lie there in southerly or easterly winds.

From Howell point the coast trends W. by S. 1/2 S. 10 miles to a projecting rocky point (Wakaputa). Midway between, at the western end of a sandy bay, is a native village, where a small mountain stream runs down, with a boat harbour at its mouth; this is remarkable as the last fixed native settlement on the coast. From Wakaputa, a rocky and indented coast trends N.W. Gmiles to Pahia point, the eastern extreme of Tewaewaes bay.

DANGERS.--The northern shore of Foveaux strait, from New river to Pahia point, a distance of 25 miles, is fronted with numerous detached reefs and rocks, extending in some cases as far as 8 miles from the coast. Among them is a well marked island, Centre island, which, lying nearly at their outer or southern boundary, will be found a good guide for avoiding them.

CENTRE island is of a triangular shape, moderately high, and about, three quarters of a mile in length; it lies 4 miles S.E. from Wakaputa point, and W. 3/4 N. 22 miles from the Bluff, and has a sunken rock (the Hapuka) little more than a mile S.W. of its centre. Midway between it and Wakaputa point are two extensive reefs awash, with a high rock on the east end of the southernmost one-

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FISH reef, which lies 3 miles south-westward of Wakaputa point, is an extensive patch; it breaks, and has 26 fathoms close outside it.

ESCAPE reefs.--The most southerly of the many dangers on this coast are the Escape reefs, 4 miles eastward of Centre island. They are two detached reefs lying W. by N. and E. by S. of each other, and 1 1/2 miles apart; each has a solitary rock about 20 feet above the sea. The eastern reef is 4 miles from Centre island, on the same E b. S. bearing, and from the north point of Stewart's island it bears North 12 miles,--S. b.W. 1/2 W. 7 1/2 miles from Howell point,--and W. 3/4 N. 18 miles from the Bluff. N.N.E. about a mile from each of the Escape reefs, lie two other reefs awash.

PIG ISLAND, a low round island, lies 2 1/4 miles S.W. b. S. of Howell point, with a sunken rock half a mile to the south-eastward of it, and two reefs awash between it and the shore.

The HALF WAY ROCKS are two rocks standing well out of water, lying in a N.W. and S.E. direction, and nearly three quarters of a mile apart; the south-easternmost bears N.W. by W. 4 miles from Steep head, and is 3 1/2 miles from the sandy beach to the northward; a mile inshore of them are two other rocks awash, between which and Half-way rocks are 7 fathoms water.

DOUBTFUL ROCK.--This sunken rock, which only breaks in heavy weather, and whose exact position is doubtful, is placed on the chart, bearing from Steep head of New river W. 1/4 N. 7 3/4 miles; from Howell point S.S.E. 5 1/2 miles and from the southernmost of the Escape reefs N.E. b. E. 1/2 E. 4 miles, which cannot be far from its true position.

CAUTION.--There is deep water among and between many of the dangers just enumerated; they should be therefore approached with caution, and avoided in thick weather. Vessels are recommended not to pass within the 20 fathom line on this part of the coast, and to keep 3 miles to the southward of the Escape reefs and Centre island. The coast between Wakaputa and Pahia points should not be approached within 4 miles by passing vessels.

TEWAEWAES BAY, lying to the westward of Pahia point, is a remarkable square shaped bay, 7 miles in depth, Sand hill point, its western extreme, bears W. 1/2 S. 15 miles from Pahia point, and was so named from the coast terminating in a ridge of low sand hills projecting from the high mountain land 5 to 6 miles northwards; there are several detached rocks and reefs extending a mile off it, and at the distance of 2 miles from the shore 16 and 18 fathoms will be found; 2 miles northward of this point is Muscle beach of the whalers, a small cove with a deserted whaling station,

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off which there is good anchorage in 5 fathoms, with all westerly winds, even as far round as S.W., but a heavy swell sets in with the wind in a more southerly quarter.

Two rapid barred rivers in the N.W, and N.E. corners of Tewaewaes bay carry to the sea the waters of a wild mountain region; the easternmost river apparently traverses a grassy district, and flows from a large lake in the interior; the natives, carried by a rapid current, descend on rafts during their excursions to the sea coast, from the country at the back of the ranges near Milford Haven. The westernmost of these rivers separates the open country from the remarkable mountainous district to the westward.

MID-BAY REEF.---Is a treacherous reef lying in a direct line between the points of Tewaewaes bay, and 4 miles from Sand hill point, which in moderate weather only occasionally shows itself, and is surrounded by a depth of 12 fathoms; the soundings in the bay range from 15 to 5 fathoms, but in southerly and heavy S.W. gales it breaks all over.

COAST from TEWAEWAES BAY to PUYSEGUR POINT.--From Sand Hill point the coast trends a little to the southward of West, 24 miles to Green islets, and has a rather low rocky outline, without remarkable features; the subsiding spurs from the back mountains almost reaching the coast:--a constant surge breaks on this line of coast.

Six miles eastward of the Green islets, Patupo, or Big river of the whalers, runs into the sea; its mouth is fronted with numerous rocks inside which is a small place of refuge for sealing boats, known as Price's boat harbour; Green islets,--a small cluster of that colour with some rocks,--fronting the shore, point out the locality.

From Green islets the coast curves back, trending W. 1/4 S. 7 miles to Windsor point, and N.W. 1/2 W. 3 miles to Puysegur point, the S.W. extreme of Middle island. One third of a mile off this latter remarkable low sloping projection lies Marshall's rock, it is large, flat topped, and forms rather a conspicuous coast feature. Boats pass inside it in fine weather.

SOUTH, OR STEWART ISLAND.

This portion of New Zealand, which was first seen by Captain Cook in 1770, and considered by him as part of the Middle island, was in 1808, discovered to be an island, by the master of a merchant vessel whose name by common consent it has since retained.

In connexion with the extensive pastoral country adjoining it on the Middle island, and which is so deficient in harbours, it bids fair to become of some importance, as it possesses, on its eastern and south-east sides several excellent ports, affording every facility for shipping. At a

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former period, even before the labours of the missionaries had commenced in the North island, Stewart island and the adjacent coasts, and islets, had become the head quarters of numerous European sealing and whaling shore parties, who acquired much influence over the native population, and many of these people with numerous half-caste descendants still reside there, forming in themselves an exceedingly interesting community, indeed they are now (1801) by far the most numerous occupants of the soil.

The island is of an irregular triangular shape; its western or longest side runs in a north and south direction 39 miles, its N.E. and S.E. sides are respectively about 33 and 30 miles in length, and its greatest breadth is little more than 20 miles; it is for the most part, mountainous, and thickly wooded with timber adapted to ship building, and other purposes. An irregular ridge of mountains, of which Mount Anglem, 3,200 feet above the sea, is the highest, runs in an east and west direction, along the north coast of the island; almost in the centre, between the head of Patersons inlet on the east side, and Masons bay on the west, rises a remarkable dome-shaped mountain (Raheahua), of 2,110 feet elevation, and which in clear weather may be seen from nearly all points. The south end of the island is also extremely hilly, though the land does not attain such an elevation as in the north. Finger and Lees bare granitic peaks rising from the flat land north of Port Pegasus, are very remarkable. The coasts are studded, in many parts, with numerous islets and rocks, worn and crumbling from the boisterous sea which is incessantly breaking upon them.

Commencing a description of Stewart island from its north-eastern extreme, Saddle point, the coasts and harbours of its eastern and southern sides will be the first described, and afterwards those on its western shores.

SADDLE POINT, remarkable in feature and position, is a rather low projecting point, the end of a spur from Mount Anglem, lying 3 miles S.W. of it. From the Bluff on the opposite shore, it bears S.W. 1/2 W. 15 miles, and forms the breaking point of the westerly swell in Foveaux strait; after rounding this point, however hard it may be blowing from the westward, shelter with comparative smooth water is immediately met with. From Saddle point the coast trends S.E. 1/2 E. 8 1/2 miles to the entrance of Port William; midway between them, at the northern end of a sandy bay, is

MURRAY RIVER, off which is a good roadstead in all winds westward of N.W.; the anchorage is little more than half a mile off the shore in 9

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fathoms. The river itself is a mere stream; its entrance, however, forms a good boat harbour, and on the banks is the principal half-caste settlement in the island; a clean sandy beach of 1 1/2 miles in extent, with a small portion of level land within, extends to the south-eastward of the river. The best anchorage is off the northern end of this beach, as it is in a measure protected from any north-west swell, by a projecting rocky head; a vessel, however, should run for Port William, if the wind veers to N.W., and blows hard,--as it almost invariably will from that quarter, --although, as it has been before observed, a strong N.W. wind in the strait is frequently to the southward of west, on the Stewart island shore.

In moderate weather, anchorage may be had, if necessary, along the whole line of coast between Saddle point and Port William, a mile from the shore.

GULL ROCK is a white rock close to the shore, 3 1/2 miles N. W. of the west head of Port William; and forms in appearance the south-east head of Murray river sandy bay.

NEWTON ROCK, a dangerous sunken rock lying E. 1/2 N. 1 1/10 miles from the Gull rock, and N.W. 3/4 W. 2 3/10 miles from the west head of Port William. It is a long mile from the nearest land, has 6 feet on it at low water, and is not marked by either break or tide ripple; it is therefore an unusual feature in the navigation of these coasts, and, lying directly in the track of vessels running between Saddle point and Port William, must be carefully avoided. There is a passage of 10 fathoms between this rock and the shore, and the same depth close round it; small vessels generally pass inside. Leaving Port William a N.W. 1/4 N. course will pass more than half a mile outside it, and when Gull rock bears W.S.W. a vessel may haul up for Saddle point.

PORT WILLIAM is an excellent little port, and although apparently open for a large vessel to anchor in, it is sheltered from easterly winds by the coast about the Bluff harbour, Ruapuke island and the groups of islands and rocks between it and Patersons inlet; it is likewise so effectually protected from the swell that rolls round both ends of the island, caused by the constant westerly and southerly winds, that it becomes a perfectly secure haven. The port may be known by the bearing of the Bluff, which is N.N.E. 16 miles from its west head; its entrance bears also W.S.W. 6 miles from the most northern of the group of islands immediately off the port. Approaching from the northward a remarkable white sand patch will be observed 3 miles westward of the entrance, or just southward of the Gull rock.

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The position of Port William with regard to the Bluff harbour and adjacent country, must always render it a port of value. The schooners engaged in whaling and sealing make it their head quarters, and hauling into the northern head of the port are perfectly land-locked; large vessels lie further out, with the Bluff just shut in with the entrance point; the only danger in running in, is a 10 feet rock which lies three cables' lengths E.S.E, from the West head; this rock is well marked by a long kelp patch, which also serves to break the swell with easterly winds. Wood and water may be had in abundance from a bay and river at the southern head of the port, where there is also a native village; refreshments may likewise be obtained, though only in small quantities.

Between two and three miles from the coast off Port William and Paterson inlet, lie the groups of islands and rocks before-mentioned; there is a good ship channel of 20 fathoms, a mile wide between Bench island,--the southernmost,-- and the groups northward of it. The smaller islands are barren craggy rocks, with strong tides and heavy ripplings among them, and it is therefore not advisable in working to stand very close to them.

FISH ROCK is a little more than one mile eastward of the east head of Port William, midway between it and the groups of islands which lie off; it is 30 feet high, with deep water close to, and tide ripplings generally round it.

HORSE SHOE AND HALF MOON BAYS are two small bays immediately southward of Port William; they are much frequented by whalers, and afford good anchorage with off-shore winds in 5 and 6 fathoms. Half Moon bay, the southernmost, has a rock above water nearly in the centre with a patch of 9 feet a short distance within it; there are a few settlers on its shores. N.E. by E., nearly 3 cables' lengths from the southern point of Half Moon bay (Akers point) is the Barclay rock, awash at low water; there is a passage for small vessels between it and the shore.

PATERSON INLET.--The entrance to this spacious port, lies 4 miles to the south-eastward of Port William, between Akers and Anglem points which lie nearly N.W. and S.E. 2 miles from each other. This inlet is a deep indentation running in a westerly direction into the centre of the island for a distance of 10 miles, and with a width in some parts of more than a league. Being bounded on its northern and southern sides by high irregular land, and a flat valley running through the island from its head, the westerly gales rush down it with

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great fury, and ships should seek shelter in one of its numerous coves rather than anchor in its open waters.

Near the northern shore, a mile within Akers point, is Native island, (which is almost connected with the main land by reefs,) it extends to the S.E. for three quarters of a mile, and narrows the entrance of the inlet to about the same width. Anglem point is the northern extreme of a remarkable peninsula, 3 miles in length, which affords protection to the inlet from easterly winds; this peninsula is almost divided in three places by narrow necks of land; the middle, which is known as the Old neck, is merely a low sandy beach.

Vessels entering Paterson inlet from the northward should pass inside the group of islands off Fort William, and on either side of Fish rock. Approaching from the southward, they may either take the passage between Anglem point and Bench island, the southernmost of the group,--and which has two remarkable rocks, the Twins, standing off its S.E. extreme, -- or between Bench island and Fancy group; in the former case, Passage islet, with a reef extending 1 1/2 cables lengths off its eastern end, will be seen in mid channel; there is a deep water channel of half a mile in width on either side of this islet. To the northward of Bench island, between it and Fancy group, there is a clear channel of a mile in width, with a depth of from 20 to 24 fathoms.

A reef of rocks extends to the N.W. from Anglem point nearly one-third of a mile; this reef is awash, and has generally tide ripplings off it; from 9 to 13 fathoms will be found in the entrance of the inlet between it and Native island, and on the southern side some rocks which are either awash or marked by kelp, extend for nearly a quarter of a mile oft' the northern coast of the peninsula,

COOPER island lies almost in the centre of Paterson inlet, a mile inside the narrowest part of the entrance; it is 2 miles long in an east and west direction, and above half a mile in width; two small islets are off its S.W. end, with two detached rocks awash at low water, lying a short distance to the westward of them; there are also some shoal patches a cable's length off the N.W. end of the island, but they are marked by kelp.

SYDNEY COVE, a sandy bight about the centre of the north side of Cooper island, affords convenient anchorage in 9 fathoms for vessels making a short stay, but would not be desirable in easterly weather, when they should seek shelter on the western side of the peninsula, off Old neck in 10 to 12 fathoms, or in Glory cove.

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GLORY COVE, which is the most snug and convenien anchorage in Paterson's inlet, lies on the S.W. side of the peninsula 2 miles southward of the east end of Cooper island; the width of its entrance is 4 cables lengths, and the general depth of water within from 4 to 6 fathoms with good holding ground: this is an excellent place for a ship requiring refit or repairs, and there is a point on the western side where, if necessary, vessels may be hove down with great facility, there being 18 feet at low water close to the beach. Vessels intending to anchor off Old neck, or in Glory cove may pass between the east end of Cooper island and the peninsula, avoiding a shoal patch marked by kelp, which lies off the peninsula side; this passage is a quarter of a mile in width, with a depth of from 16 to 20 fathoms.

SOUTH WEST BAY, immediately to the westward of Glory cove, is an extensive sheet of water running in a south-westerly direction 3 miles, with an average width of a mile; the general depth is from 12 to 14 fathoms, but within a mile of its extreme, anchorage may be had in 6 fathoms; five islands lie off its western point, which narrow the entrance to half a mile.

For 2 miles above Cooper island, the main branch of Paterson inlet maintains a width of nearly 3 miles, with a depth of from 12 to 16 fathoms water; in working up, the shores should not be approached within a quarter of a mile, as several islets and rocky patches extend nearly that distance off; they are all, however, marked by kelp.

KAIPIPI BAY lies on the north side of the inlet, 4 miles above Native island; it is a third of a mile in width, and has anchorage in 5 fathoms. Half a mile within, it shoals to 4 fathoms, and shortly afterwards to 10 feet.

Westward of Kaipipi bay, the inlet narrows to the width of a mile, and the soundings decrease to 12 and 10 fathoms. At the distance of 2 miles above, there is an extensive bay on the north shore, which at low water dries within the line of its entrance points; the main arm bending to the S.W. runs in that direction for 2 1/2 miles farther, with a width of half a mile, and carrying a depth of from 10 to 6 fathoms, when it terminates in a shoal creek, which dries a mile and a half from its head, leaving a narrow boat channel of 2 to 3 feet at low water.

PORT ADVENTURE is 10 miles to the southward of Paterson inlet, the coast line between being a succession of bold rocky headlands, with occasional sandy beaches, but without shelter even for boats.

East Head, a projecting headland, and the eastern point of Stewart island, is 2 1/2 miles to the northward of Port Adventure. Two miles from

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this part of the coast the soundings range from 20 to 25 fathoms sandy bottom, shoaling gradually as the shore is approached.

The port is small, and open to the eastward; but affords good shelter in all westerly winds, Entrance island renders the passage in, narrow for large vessels to work through. Starling head, the northern entrance point, is steep and cliffy, with a small islet (Weka) lying close off it;--the southern entrance point is formed by a peninsula, the south extreme of which, Shelter point, has a detached rock awash lying nearly a quarter of a mile distant.

The best passage in is between the North head and Entrance island; this passage is scarcely 4 cables' lengths in width, but has from 14 to 20 fathoms, except a patch of 18 feet which lies W. b. S. 1/2 S. 2 cables' lengths from the north point of the island. The passage southward of Entrance island has the same width, but has a rock in the centre of it, with 20 feet, which is marked by kelp; there is deep water on either side of this rock. When inside the heads, there is a clear working width of three quarters of a mile, with a depth of from 9 to 13 fathoms; on the south side there are several rocky patches, with no more than 9 feet on them, they extend a quarter of a mile from the shore, are marked by kelp, and have deep water between them. At 1 1/2 miles within the entrance, the harbour terminates in three coves, in the southernmost of which, Oyster cove, small vessels might lie in safety with all winds.

WEKA AND WRECK REEFS lying off the entrance of Port Adventure, are the principal dangers on this part of the coast. Weka Reef, the northernmost, is a quarter of a mile in extent, detached, and although covered, always breaks; it bears from Weka islet N.E. by E. 3/4 E., distant 1 1/4 miles, and from the north end of Entrance island N.E. 1/2 N. nearly l 1/2 miles. Wreck reef, so called from a small vessel having been lost on it, is also detached, and has a rock on it just above water; in bad weather it breaks very heavily; the position of this reef is E. by S. 2 miles from the east end of Entrance island, and N.E. 1/2 N. 3 miles from the outer Breaksea islet; from 29 to 33 fathoms will be found from one to 1 1/2 miles outside of them, and 10 fathoms within half a mile of the south end of Wreck reef.

On the neck of the peninsula which forms the southern side of Port Adventure is a native village, the southernmost inhabited spot in New Zealand.

From Shelter point the coast turns sharply to the S.W. b. W., and presents a most rugged outline; a group of barren and craggy islands extend a mile and a half to the southward from the point, the sea

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constantly breaking over and between them with great violence. From their proximity to Port Adventure, and forming a barrier to the enormous swell which rolls along the south side of the island, they were named the Breaksea islands.

LORDS' RIVER is 3 1/2 miles to the south-westward of Shelter point, and may be known by a cluster of rocky islands lying off its eastern head, the coast between which and the Breaksea islands forms as a bight when seen from seaward; this little harbour is a narrow arm of the sea running in a W. by N. direction, and is a snug anchorage for a steamer or small sailing vessel; H.M.S. Acheron took refuge in it during a westerly gale with a heavy sea running outside, but it cannot be recommended for a large sailing vessel, as the entrance is only two cables lengths wide, and it is necessary to haul sharp round to the westward to secure a good berth, which is a quarter of a mile inside the western head in 6 fathoms, sand and gravel; here a vessel may lie perfectly land-locked; nearly two cables lengths above this anchorage are two shoal patches marked by kelp, and 4 fathoms water may be carried a mile above the heads; boat navigation extends for 4 miles, when the river dwindles into a rapid mountain stream, running over a granite bed.

PORT PEGASUS may be recognised by three remarkable bare granite cones from 1,000 to 1,400 feet high, which are over the south arm about a mile from the west side of Stewart island. The main entrance of this noble port is 17 miles S.W. b. W. from Lord's river; the coast between has an irregular rocky outline, with numerous scattered rocks fronting the shore; Black rock, the most remarkable, is about 20 feet in height, and not larger than a small vessel; it lies 1 1/2 miles from the nearest shore, and is 10 miles from the main entrance of Port Pegasus. White rock is three quarters of a mile from the coast, and is 2 miles westward of Lord's river. Toetoes bay, a small sandy cove with a boat harbour at the head of it, is 6 miles westward of that river, and has a small islet standing off its eastern cliffy head; at a distance varying from one to 3 miles, from this coast, there are from 35 to 47 fathoms over a sandy bottom.

The port is 7 miles in extent N.E. and S.W., lying parallel with the coast, which it gives a broken appearance to, from the many passages in; --three islands lie in the entrance, which form the same number of ship channels between them; the main or broad passage is a long half mile wide in its narrowest part, lies between Pearl and Anchorage islands,-- the N.E. and centre islands,--and carries a depth of from 20 to 24 fathoms, with no dangers. The southern or narrow passage is between

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Noble island,--the south-easternmost,--and the main land, and in its narrowest part is not more than 2 cables lengths in width, with a depth of 15 fathoms. The northern or Whale passage is still narrower, being little more than a cable's length across, with a depth only of 5 fathoms-- it lies between the northern shore and Pearl island; between Noble and Anchorage islands, there is only a boat passage.

Either of the three ship channels maybe taken according to circumstances, though Broad passage alone is recommended for a vessel of large size to work through; it trends N.W. by N., and the Narrow and Whale passages W.N.W.

The port is divided into two distinct portions, the north and south arms which are connected by a narrow strait,--Acherons anchorage;--Broad and Whale passages, lead direct to the north arm, and Narrow passage to the south. In the north arm the general depth of water is inconvenient for anchoring, being from 20 to 25 fathoms, but anchorage in 12 fathoms may be had just to the westward of a small island which lies at the north head of the arm, 2 mile3 from the entrance. In the south arm the depth is more moderate, and anchorage may be had in from 12 to 14 fathoms half a mile within Narrow passage, between Micrometer rock and Noble island; there are also several coves, within the entrances off which vessels may anchor in from 8 to 10 fathoms. Ship-builders cove, on the north shore, has some rocks and shoal patches in it, which, however, are marked by kelp. Besides the Micrometer rock, which is a small rock above water, in the centre of this arm, with a reef extending nearly a cable to the northward of it, there are also several small islets scattered about, but no dangers not marked with kelp.

ACHERON ANCHORAGE is a narrow strait, about 2 cables in width and 1 1/2 miles in length, connecting the north and south arms of Port Pegasus, it is formed by the main land on the north, and by Noble and Anchorage islands on the south, and affords the most convenient and sheltered anchorage in the port, in 9 and 11 fathoms, mud; three small islets, however, which lie in the eastern entrance, narrow it so much as to render it only fit for a steamer or small sailing vessel from that direction; this entrance, called Steamers pass, is south of the islets and has a depth of from 10 to 15 fathoms. This anchorage therefore is not generally available for ships entering by Broad passage, but those entering the port by Narrow or S.W. passages with a leading wind, and intending to make any stay, should take advantage of it:--the western entrance is clear, and 2 cables lengths across, and if preferred they may anchor in the broad part of the entrance in 11 fathoms, well sheltered.

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Seal Creek, a deep and narrow inlet, penetrates the shore in a northerly and then in a westerly direction from the western entrance of Acheron's anchorage.

Port Pegasus abounds in excellent timber fit for ship building or other purposes, and no difficulty will be found in procuring fresh water from the streams in any of the coves. Wild fowl are numerous in some parts.

WILSON BAY is a deep indentation trending north and south, 4 miles south-westward from Port Pegasus and 2 miles N.E. of Cook's south cape of New Zealand; its shores are skirted with rocks, and being exposed, with a depth of water from 14 to 20 fathoms, it can only be considered a retreat in case of necessity; small vessels may, however, obtain shelter in Burial cove, on its western side, half a mile from the head of the bay.

The southern end of Stewart island terminates in a block of land 4 miles in width, the extreme of which, the S. W. cape, called by the natives the tail of the island, is 3 miles to the westward of Cook's south cape, and has sunken rocks extending nearly half a mile off it; the neighbouring land is high and bold, with a steep and rugged shore.

The TRAPS are two dangerous and well named reefs lying to the south-eastward of the south end of Stewart island. The North Trap reef covers a space of 2 1/4 miles, and has two rocks near either extremity, 3 to 4 feet high, and resembling in size and shape, a boat turned bottom up: the centre of the reef bears from Cook's south cape, E. b. S 15 1/4 miles, and is distant 11 miles from the nearest land, (between Wilson bay and Port Pegasus,) the depth of water between being 60 fathoms; 2 miles to the westward of this reef, there is 23 fathoms.

The South Trap reef does not cover so much ground as the north; it is nearly 2 miles in extent, with portions from 4 to 6 feet above high water and heavy breakers about it; its centre bears from Cook's south cape S.E. by E., distant 20 miles. These two reefs bear from each other N. 1/2 W. and S. 1/2 E., distant little more than 9 miles, H.M.S. Acheron had 48 fathoms water between them. 3

S.W. COAST.--The south-western side of Stewart island is fronted by an irregular group of rocky islands; the most outlying of these Wedge island, is a mile long, and fully 6 miles from the land; these islands are all similar in feature, their western faces, steep precipitous cliffs, from 300 to 400 feet high, sloping to their eastern sides, where a

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boat harbour is generally found; the natives frequent them during summer for mutton birds.

There are clear passages among these islands; between the largest, Long island, and the mainland, there is a channel of 1 1/2 miles in width; the tides, however, run with great velocity, and render their passages hazardous to attempt. The northernmost of this group, Moggy isle, lies 5 miles N.N.E. from Wedge island, and is about the same size.

PORT EASY, a confined anchorage in 5 fathoms for small vessels, is occasionally frequented by sealing craft, and lies 9 miles to the northward of S.W. cape; its entrance lies north and south, and is about a quarter of a mile in width. Two small islets, the Brothers, lie 2 miles to the westward of its entrance, and the same distance north of it, a rocky cluster of four islands, (Boat group,) extend from the coast 3 miles to the S. W., and serve in some measure to break the sea.

Between Port Easy and Mason bay, a distance of l5 miles, there is no shelter for vessels; the coast presents an irregular outline of high rugged cliffs, on which a heavy westerly sea or swell is constantly breaking. A deep indentation runs in to the S.E., 3 miles southward of Mason bay, where boats may obtain shelter by hauling up inside the rocky ledges at the extreme head.

MASON BAY is a peculiar low and sandy feature on the wild and inhospitable west coast of this island; it has a sandy beach 5 miles in length, with wooded flats lying at the base of the mountain ranges, running down from the dome shaped peak in the centre of the island; there is anchorage in its southern part in from 3 to 4 fathoms, protected from west and N.W. winds by two jutting red cliffy faced islands (Ernest isles). A heavy sea rolls into the bay from the northward, but small vessels can lay here well-sheltered, and in case of emergency, a large vessel, by getting sufficiently close to the Ernest isles, will be in a secure anchorage. These islands lie close together, with a boat passage between; the south island is connected with the main land at low water by a sandy neck.

Guide rock, above water, lies nearly half a mile W. by S. from the north end of the northern Ernest island, and also a rock nearly awash, 2 cables' lengths westward of its S. W. end. Look-out-for reef, a dangerous patch, more than half a mile in extent, also nearly awash, lies N.N.W. 2 1/2 miles from the northern extreme of the same island, with a clear deep water channel between. On the same N.N.W. bearing, and little more than 3 miles from this reef, is another shoal, which only breaks occasionally; between them there is a depth of 25 fathoms.

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CODFISH ISLAND lies 9 miles N.N.W. of Ernest islands, and 4 1/2 miles S.S.W, from the Rugged isles,---which latter extend off the N.W. extreme of Stewart island. It is 3 miles in length in a N.W. and S.E. direction, and 2 miles across, moderately high, level-topped, and has a small stony eminence rising near its centre; between it and Stewart island, is a passage nearly 2 miles in width, with a depth of 7 and 8 fathoms; High rock lies in the centre of it.

There is a confined anchorage in Sealers' bay on its N.E. side, well-sheltered from all westerly winds, in 6 to 8 fathoms; this was formerly the head quarters of the sealers, but is now deserted. The western side of the island is composed of high rugged cliffs, with rocks and foul ground extending a mile off shore; at the distance of 2 miles there is from 30 to 36 fathoms, sand and gravel bottom.

On the coast of Stewart island, fronting Sealers bay, is a castellated peak, strikingly bold and remarkable from its peculiar rocky formation, The coast southward of this peak, as far as the north end of Mason's bay, a distance of 8 miles, is thickly strewed with rocks, extending a mile off shore, on which there is at all times a heavy swell, and occasionally blind breakers on the foul ground, a league off the land; this treacherous space has been the cause of much loss of life to the early sealers in passing it in their boats.

RUGGED ISLES, (Raggedy point of the sealers) extending from the N.W. point of Stewart island, are a remarkable cluster of high black craggy rocks, worn by a turbulent sea into the most jagged and fantastic shapes. Boats seldom venture inside them, and heavy tide ripplings extend some distance to seaward; a depth of from 24 to 30 fathoms was carried on rounding them at the distance of from half to one mile, but sailing vessels should not approach within a league of this part of the coast.

CAVE POINT is E.N.E. 3 1/2 miles from Rugged islands; the White rocks lie 8 1/2 miles N.N.E. from this point; they are a cluster detached from the shore, about 20 feet in height; a league eastward of them is Black Rock point, the north extreme of Stewart island, just westward of it is a remarkable white sand patch; thence the coast trends E. by S. 5 miles to Saddle point; this northern portion of the coast is principally a rugged rocky outline with occasional shingle beaches; Mount Anglem and the lofty ridge westward of it sending down their steep spurs to the sea shore.

TIDES.--The flood tide coining from the southward, strikes the south end of Stewart island and divides, one part running to the northward along its western side, and then to the eastward through Foveaux strait;

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the other to the N.E., along the S.E. side of the island, as far as Port Adventure, where they meet again, and flow to the eastward. The ebb takes exactly a contrary direction; splitting near Port Adventure, it runs to the N.W. through the strait, and down the west side of the island, and to the S.W., along the S.E. sides as far as the S.W. cape.

It is high water on full and change days at Ports Pegasus and Adventure, at llh 5Om and 12h 20m respectively; at Port William and Paterson inlet at 12h 45m and lh 10m; and Mason's bay at llh 10m: the range is from 4 to 8 feet. The strength of the tides off the coast is from 1/2 to 1 1/2 knots, except in the narrow passages; thus, inside the group of islands off Port William and Paterson inlet it runs from one to 3 knots, and in the passage between the S. W. cape and Long island, as much as 4 knots during springs.

THE SNARES,

Are a bold and tolerably high group of islands, destitute of vegetation, and covered by myriads of the pintado or cape pigeon; they lie 62 miles S.S.W, of the S.W. end of Stewart island, and extend 5 miles in an East and West direction; they are an excellent land-mark from the westward, and are recommended to be made as a point of departure in passing south of Stewart island, whereas the name they bear would deter vessels from approaching them; the East or largest island is little more than one mile in length by half a mile in breadth, rising on the south side perpendicularly to the height of 470 feet; the N.E. side is less precipitous, and probably accessible under very favourable circumstances; the western portion of the group consists of four islets, separated from the large island by a channel apparently perfectly clear of 2 miles in width; a depth of 79 fathoms was found by H M.S. Pandora 2 miles north and south of the large island, deepening in every direction, except in a line towards the Traps rocks, where it gradually decreases to 40 fathoms, one mile from the south reef of the latter.

The S.W. island is in latitude 48 deg. 6' 43" S., longitude 166 deg. 28' 40" E.; the tides about them are inconsiderable.