1817 - Nicholas, J. L. Narrative of a Voyage to New Zealand [Vol.I] - CHAPTER IX

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CHAP. IX.

Returning to Wycaddee, we found Wiveeah sitting upon the roof of a house, which is frequently done by the chiefs, with the view of signifying in this manner their elevated dignity above the rest of their people.

He received us in very bad humour, and it appeared to us as if the chief, who accom-

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panied us to his district, and who not joining us in our excursion to the forests, remained behind, had in our absence excited in his mind some suspicions as to the object of our visit. We found them both in conversation together on our return, and we had every reason to suppose that we were not wrong in our conjectures. Wiveeah told Mr. Marsden, with evident signs of jealous resentment, that we had shewn a predilection for Tarra and Tupee, by giving axes to each of them, while we neglected himself; and spoke with such a tone of indignant anger, as plainly shewed how much we had provoked him by this supposed preference. Mr. Marsden, anxious to pacify him, began to remonstrate, by telling him that he had known the others first; but, that if he would come on board the vessel, he would not only give him an axe, but also some seed wheat, the nature and use of which he explained to him. These promises, however, were not sufficient to appease him, and the most effectual lenitive was the large axe belonging to the ship, which, as we happened to have it with us, Mr. Marsden consented to give him, though parting with it was a great inconvenience, as it would be some time before the smith could be in readiness to make another. This

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present immediately put him into better humour, and he became by degrees more gentle and placable, till at length he was perfectly reconciled with us, and expressed an ardent desire for some of our countrymen to settle in his district.

Leaving Mr. Marsden and Wiveeah in conversation together, who were by this time on excellent terms, I proceeded to take a survey of the village, and attracted as I walked along, a gaping crowd of astonished spectators. The children were here, as in many other parts that I observed, extremely desirous to arrest my attention; each little group crowding round me with emulative impatience. I was pleased and diverted with their eagerness, and did every thing in my power to convince them all, individually, that they were noticed by the packaha; and those who first happened to catch my eye, and to whom I addressed myself, appeared quite delighted.

The situation of this village is one of the most beautiful I have seen in New Zealand, and deserves to be particularly described. It is built upon the banks of the Wytangee, which are about fifteen or twenty feet above the level of the water, and many of the huts are constructed in such a

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manner, as to have a very pleasing effect. I observed some which verged upon the extreme edge of the bank, having on the opposite side, an agreeable prospect of a large enclosed field, with the appearance of an English meadow. Beyond this field the level ground disappears, and the hills rising gradually one above another, display with interesting contrast, the wild luxuriance of the fern, and the picturesque grandeur of the towering pine. The river is about forty or fifty feet wide, and the water as clear as chrystal, reflecting the polished pebbles over which it flows, and exhibiting on its banks a profuse variety of beautiful shrubs; while from its bosom, numberless flocks of curious birds are continually emerging, and still hovering on either side, blend with the scene, and enliven with their gay plumage the sombre shades of the distant forest. The huts in this village were built of the same materials as in the other parts of the island, and were generally of the same dimensions, excepting the hut which was the residence of the chief, and this was the largest I had yet met with; measuring twenty-seven feet by eighteen, and nine feet in height. The doorway was not more spacious than that of any

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other hut, but it was decorated with some curious devices of rude sculpture. Adjoining the village, were some well cultivated plantations of potatoes and coomeras; and these, with the other external appendages belonging to the huts, are generally the most interesting sight, there being nothing worthy of observation in the inside. It is singular how great is the difference of improvement between the rude structures themselves, and those neat plantations with which they are surrounded. In the former, we see nothing but the most convincing indications of the savage state of the inhabitants; while in the latter, we frequently perceive so much regularity and order, that were we to require no other test, we should suppose these people to be quite as much civilized as ourselves. The nice precision that was observed in setting the plants, and the careful exactness in clearing out the weeds, the neatness of the fences, with the convenience of the stiles and path-ways, might all of them have done credit to the most tasteful cultivator in England; and while I beheld and admired them, I could not help fancying myself at the moment, in my own happy country.

In the enclosure before one of the huts.

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I saw a fine young woman sitting on the ground, with a new-born infant lying beside her; her husband, who was a rungateeda, and who had two other wives besides this lady, told me the infant was only two days old, and the mother, though having so recently experienced the sufferings of childbirth, looked as jolly and strong as if nothing had occurred. Among the children, I observed a boy about twelve years old, who was born with a leprosy; his skin was white and scaly, his eyes half closed, and his eyebrows as white as those of an old man: his features were most unsightly, and his whole appearance particularly disgusting. He was the only instance of this hideous disease that I ever met with in the island, so I should suppose it is not a prevalent one among the natives. The population of this village was comparatively large, being not less than one hundred and fifty souls, which was a good number for so inconsiderable a place. It was amusing to see what wild astonishment the report of a shot produced among the assembled crowd. Firing with my fowling-piece, at a bird that had settled on an adjacent tree, I happened to kill it, and this instantly threw the whole village, men.

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women, and children, into violent confusion; who, knowing not how to account for the seeming phenomenon, testified the appalling effect it had upon them, by setting up a tremendous shout, and astounding my ears with their uproar. While in the act of shewing them the bird I had killed, which they examined very attentively, perceiving another on the same tree, I fired at this also, and brought it down; which occasioned a repetition of their amazement, and made them vociferate even louder than at first. I shewed my shot-bag to one of the old men, but the sight of it terrified him so much, that he durst not venture to take a second glance at it; and turning away his head in the greatest trepidation from this magazine of death, I am persuaded he entertained worse notions of it, than ever were imagined of Pandora's box. But my watch was a much more pleasing spectacle, and gratified their curiosity, without exciting their fears. Every one was impatient to have a peep at it, but the ticking was so wonderful to their conceptions, that they believed it to be nothing less than the language of a god; and the watch itself, being looked upon as the Etua, was regarded by the whole of them with profound reverence.

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Bidding adieu to Wiveeah, we got down to the beach, but it being low water, we could not depart, and were obliged to wait three hours before the tide was high enough. To divert this time away, I took my friend Gunnah, whom I always found a mirthful attendant, and went to the opposite shore, expecting to get a shot at some wild ducks; but unfortunately they were so very shy it was impossible to come near them, being alarmed on the slightest approach. They were, however, very numerous, and this was still more provoking, as it only aggravated my disappointment. It was quite dark before we reached the ship, and we found our appetites well prepared for some refreshment after our excursion.

Tommy Drummond, 1 who had lately ex-

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cited the sensibility of his new relations in Tarra's district, was, on the 31st, the object of more violent, and I presume, more sincere emotions. His poor mother, from whose pre-

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sence he had long been estranged, hearing of his return to the island, hastened with all the impatience of maternal anxiety, to embrace her eon; and getting on board, she immediately recognized him, though he might well have out-grown her recollection, having left

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her when a little boy, and being now advanced to the age of eighteen. Her joy at finding her child, (whom she believed to have been lost to her for ever,) once more restored to her sight, overpowered her too much for expression; and throwing herself at his feet, she embraced them with wild transports of delight, unable all the time to satisfy her feelings, while the full tide of a mother's love, which was swelling at her heart, burst forth in floods of tears, and the scene was so extremely moving, that no beholder could remain insensible to its poignancy. Tommy was deeply affected, and stood weeping over his mother, while she still clung to his feet without uttering a word. The strong claims of nature were never more visible than on this occasion; and the powerful sensations of parental attachment, were met by the reciprocal endearments of filial affection.

In a short excursion which we took on this day, we fell in with a family, living entirely by themselves, remote from any village, and in a perfect state of seclusion. It consisted of a man with his head wife, two subordinate ones, and three or four very fine children. The harmony and happiness in which they appeared to live together, their

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content and cheerfulness, and the social cordiality that prevailed among them, were gratifying to behold; and our imaginations were carried back to those days of primeval simplicity, when every man lived quietly under his own vine, and enjoyed as his best riches, the innocence of his heart and the fruits of his industry. This peaceful family had much of the character of those patriarchal times; and strangers to all artificial wants, they supplied by their daily labour sufficient means for that simple mode of life which constituted their greatest happiness. Had such people but the light of true religion to guide and direct them, I should not hesitate to pronounce their state far happier than that of the most pageant elevation, preferring, as I always must, contentment to ambition, and the delicious sweets of easy competence, to the luxurious display of cumbrous superfluities.

Leaving this happy family, we walked into the interior, and ascending one of the highest hills, we enjoyed a fine view of the surrounding country. The land in this part

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of the island presented the most singularly uneven surface I ever beheld: it consisted of an alternate succession of hills and valleys, and the best idea I can give my readers respecting it, is that of a sea violently agitated by a storm, and suffering instantaneous congelation in that state, by being arrested by a sudden frost. The hills, though of inconsiderable height, were so very steep as to preclude any cultivation on their sides; and the space between the valleys was so extremely narrow that none could be effected without the utmost labour and difficulty, and then only with the hoe. The soil, however, was in general very good, and in some places remarkably luxuriant; so that notwithstanding the unfavourable localities, it might be sown with grasses, or planted with the vine, to considerable advantage. We observed the land covered in most places with the fern, and this is considered the best indication of its fertility.

Calling on our return upon the secluded family, whose interesting situation was peculiarly distinctive, we found our boat's crew making themselves quite at home, the women beating and roasting the fern-root for them with much hospitality. They presented some

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of it to us, but our vitiated palates could not relish their plain and wholesome diet; the sailors however, who were New Zealanders and Otaheitans, were not so squeamish, and they seemed to enjoy this simple fare with an exquisite zest. The advantages of civilization should certainly be very great to compensate for that subversion of unsophisticated habits which it generally effects; and for those luxurious cravings which it entails on a people who before were content with the most homely food. This reflection frequently occurred to me, while I beheld the smiling cheerfulness with which these children of nature sat down to their meal of fern-root.

The month of December had now ended, and the 1st of January was ushered in with all the rigour of that season in an European climate; though here it should be as beautiful as June. The rain fell incessantly, and it blew a perfect gale from east to west for nearly the whole day. This was the first time, since our arrival at the island, that we had any occasion to complain of the weather, or experienced the least disagreeable change But on this day all the elements appeared completely convulsed, and it was fortunate for us that the vessel, by the situation where

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she lay, was perfectly secure from the storm; for if on the coast, she would in all probability have been dashed to pieces. Yet, though we were here what is nautically termed land-locked, still from the agitation of the waves, the ship was kept in continual motion, and the effect was so unpleasant to my friend and myself, that we preferred going on shore, and seeking a precarious shelter from the rain among the rocks, to remaining on board.

I must here observe, that on the preceding day, our faithful and sprightly friend Gunnah took his leave of us, and returned to Rangehoo. The poor fellow was much affected at separating from us, shaking hands with each of us in a most affectionate manner, and weeping bitterly all the time. But he consoled himself with the reflection that we should very soon leave this quarter, and revisit Rangehoo, where he would again have an opportunity of seeing us. As there was no apparent motive for his immediate departure, we rallied him on his not being able to live for a few days apart from his wife, (for he was married,) but he readily confessed that this was not his reason for leaving us; and the one he gave was puerile enough, --that

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he wanted to get his hair cut. This young man had first come on board by the desire of Duaterra, to assist us, as he said, in our connections with the different tribes that we should have occasion to trade with; but I rather think he had other motives in view, and wished that he should give him information respecting the degree of intimacy that we might form with any of these tribes. It is certain that Gunnah, on his return to Rangehoo, received from him a severe beating for leaving the ship without his permission. But whether Duaterra studied his own or our interest, in causing this young man to accompany us, we were much pleased that he had done so, as we found him upon all occasions, not only an entertaining, but a most useful companion; explaining to us very satisfactorily many of the customs of his countrymen, and frequently acting as interpreter, having picked up a good many words of our language. We felt very much the loss of his services when he went away, not being able to manage our affairs with equal convenience as before.

The weather having cleared up on the 2d, the atmosphere resumed its usual serenity,

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and every thing once more presented a cheerful appearance.

We were visited in the morning by the soi distant Governor Macquarie, accompanied by Tui, and his uncle Bennee, a formal old chief, who seemed fully impressed with a sense of his own importance. Accepting an invitation from his Excellency to visit his district, Mr. Marsden and myself got into a war canoe he had prepared for us, in which were five or six of his people, who paddled us to the head of a cove, a distance of about five miles from the ship. Landing us here, our friends hauled up the canoe on the beach, and took us over a narrow neck of land which separated this cove from another on the opposite side, where a canoe was to be in waiting to convey us to the residence of the Governor. Our way to this cove lay through some marshy ground, after passing which, we ascended some high land, overrun with fern of the most luxuriant growth, not less, generally, than six and seven feet in height; and the soil, we were informed by Korra-korra, was well adapted for producing wheat. In this he was perfectly correct, for it was uncommonly fertile,

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and highly suitable to the purposes of cultivation. Arriving at the extremity of the marsh, and passing a small hill covered with, large masses of quartz, we crossed a little rivulet, and entered a wood, in which Captain Cook, as Bennee informed us, had cut down some timber on his visit to the island. He remembered the Captain, he said, perfectly well, and was a boy at the time he first saw him; when he went on board his ship, and was with him on several occasions. He did not, however, state any particulars respecting that enterprising navigator. Getting out of this wood, we came to some deserted huts, and to a plantation belonging to Korra-korra, in which was growing the wheat that the missionaries had given to him on their former voyage. Just as we were crossing the stile, Tui called out to us that the plantation was tabooed, and desired us not to enter it; but our curiosity to see how the wheat was thriving, made us slight this injunction, and we went in to examine it. We were much pleased with the appearance of the crop; the ears were full and large, and nearly ripe, but some few of them were black and infected; arising, most probably, from the place being encompassed with trees, which prevented a free circulation

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of air. We now hastened down to the shore, in expectation of meeting with the canoe, but as the wind was blowing very hard, Korra-korra said that his people would be afraid to venture on the sea, and thought it most advisable for us to accept an invitation, which his uncle Bennee gave us, to visit his hippah, or fortified village. We were of the same opinion ourselves, and readily agreed to his proposal.

The opening of this cove we found to be close to the head of the harbour, and Bennee pointed out to us the identical spot where Captain Cook lay at anchor.

Our friends finding their appetites too keen for their patience, would proceed no further before they satisfied the cravings they experienced; and for this purpose, returned to the deserted huts, near to which they found some baskets of dried fish and fernroot, suspended from forked sticks driven into the ground. They immediately set about regaling themselves with this fortunate supply, and we were also very willing to meet with any thing that was palatable; our appetites, as well as theirs, being sharpened by the excursion, and not having brought any refreshment with us from the ship. But

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notwithstanding we felt absolutely hungry, the food that was before us was too strong for our stomachs. The fern-root we could only taste, and though we tried to partake of the dried fish, we were soon obliged to give it up, from the quantity of disgusting maggots we perceived in every part of it. Not so our New Zealand companions; - they considered it a delicious treat, and were not a little surprised that we could not relish such fine kiki, (food,) as well as themselves. When the appetites of our party were completely sated, we set out for Bennee's place, and walked along the shore for about two miles, climbing occasionally the projecting rocks that lined the cove, and often getting a wetting from the spray that dashed against them. I observed that the stones about this cove were chiefly quartz, while those of the other coves I had met with, were all of them clay stones. When we got opposite to the hippah, Bennee hailed a small canoe that was in sight, which a boy soon paddled over to us. Into this frail machine, which was so unsteady and narrow that the least uneven motion would instantly overturn it, Mr. Marsden and myself entered; and were paddled over by old Bennee

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himself, not without the most alarming apprehensions on the part of my friend, that we should be all overset, and consigned by this visit to a watery grave. Indeed, there were good reasons for his fears, though providentially no accident occurred; for, besides the danger from the canoe itself, there was a still greater, from a violent gale that was blowing all the time, and threatening every moment to sweep us into the devouring element. I cannot say, however, that I felt any considerable degree of alarm myself; I had the greatest confidence in the skill and management of old Bennee, and was persuaded that by sitting still 2 in the canoe, there would be no danger.

But the panic of my friend was soon over, for we landed in perfect safety close to a small village at the foot of a hill. On the top of this hill was built the hippah, to which the natives retire as a place of defence, whenever they are attacked by their enemies.

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We were received on the shore by an old woman, a relation of Bennee, who stood there as we approached, repeating the friendly welcome of haromai, haromai, with many gesticulations. Immediately on our landing, we found three stages erected on the shore, and supported by posts about twelve feet from the ground. On these stages were placed a quantity of the dog-fish and stingray, which were drying there as a supply against the winter; and some very large nets that appeared to have been recently used, were spread out on stakes along the strand. We found very few people in the village, most of the inhabitants having gone in their canoes to procure flax. There was nothing remarkable in its appearance, consisting of a collection of huts, similar to those in the other parts of the island, but inferior to many of them in some respects. In passing through it I observed a pig-stye, in which a sow and her ten pigs were comfortably lodged, and the place kept extremely clean. As soon as the rest of our party were paddled over, we ascended the hill, one side of which was planted with coomeras, and crossing a wide moat where the industry of the natives had thrown up a mud bank,

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we came to a regular mound, which served as a line of circumvallation to the town. This mound, like that at Rangehoo, was formed of stakes driven into the ground at certain distances from each other, and the work appeared remarkably compact and solid. To render the place still more inaccessible to the invading foe, they had cut away a great part of the side of the hill, so that the ascent was quite perpendicular, and to me it appeared impossible that the description of force which this garrison had to resist, could effect any thing against it: though I recollect Duaterra having told me that his countrymen made little of such fortresses, as they could scale the breastwork with an astonishing agility, and thus possess themselves of the town, if the party inside should happen not to be strong enough to repel the assault.

No place could have been better selected for this hippah than that where it stood, and the natives by their skill and industry, had materially improved its natural advantages. It was called Parro, and was the principal place in the district. There were not many houses here, nor was the population considerable; we were conducted to Bennee's

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residence, which had no distinguishing mark from the rest, but its being somewhat larger. The first thing our friends did now, was to dress some potatoes, which they presented to us, and wished that we should eat them in the open air; but this we thought proper to decline, not choosing to expose ourselves to the heavy rain that was falling, and which lasted during the whole of the ensuing night. I have already informed my readers, that these people make it a rule never to take their meals in the huts appropriated for their residence, and this they not only religiously observe themselves, but enjoin strangers to do the same whenever they partake of their hospitality. Unwilling as we were to provoke their resentment, by any violation of their customs, however absurd and ridiculous, we should either have gone without the potatoes, which were now very acceptable to us, or eaten them at the expense of a good wetting, (there being no shed for that purpose;) if very fortunately, a projection from the roof of the house, of about three feet, had not afforded us a shelter, where we were enabled to take our repast. However, this indulgence was not suffered without many anxious scruples on the part of our friends, as they considered

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our proximity on such an occasion to the tabooed place, was highly impious. They watched us the whole time with the greatest care, lest we should be guilty of any egregious profanation; and whenever we wanted to drink out of a calibash they had brought us, we were obliged to thrust out our heads from under the covering, though the rain fell in torrents.

The New Zealanders have many other superstitious observances, with regard to their dwellings, besides this prohibition of taking any food in them; all which they ascribe to their dread of offending the Etua, who, they imagine, would punish them in his wrathful vengeance, if they were to pollute their huts with certain offices, which they consider profane. Hence, they not only never eat within the walls of them when in health, but even when sick they neither expect this privilege, nor would accept it if allowed; and are carried out to the shed in the enclosure, let the weather be ever so inclement. Here they take whatever nourishment is provided for them, and are brought back again when they have done. Women in labour also, are delivered in these sheds if the weather is bad, but as the climate is in general very

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mild, child-birth most commonly takes place under the open air. During the time a native is building or repairing a hut, he is put under the taboo taboo, which in this instance is a kind of quarantine, so far as it regards his treatment of himself; though it does not extend to his intercourse with others, this being left free and unrestrained. He must not attempt to feed himself, but has persons to wait upon him for that purpose, if he happens to be a chief; and if a cookee, or common man, his meals are left for him on the ground, and he is obliged to stoop down and take up each time with his mouth, as much as he finds necessary, continuing this painful repetition till the repast is finished. On no account whatever must he make use of his hand; for were he to apply it to his mouth under such awful circumstances, the consequence would be, according to their notions, that the Etua would destroy him by some slow and lingering disease. The individual is always fully impressed with this idea himself, and submitting with alacrity, requires no compulsion to make him observe so momentous an ordinance. Such is the force of prejudice and superstition over the human mind.

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Fatigued with the excursion, and vexed at not being permitted to enter the house, and enjoy a more comfortable shelter from the rain, I inveighed against these inhospitable superstitions with much acrimony; and as Tui had previously shewed a predilection for European customs, imitating our manners while on board, as closely as he could, I told him in the language of vulgar ridicule, that the taboo taboo was all gammon. But I soon found that opinions imbibed in infancy, and cherished to the period of manhood, were as difficult to be eradicated from the minds of the New Zealanders, as from those of Europeans; for turning sharply round to me, he replied, that "it was no gammon at all; New Zealand man," said he, "say that Mr. Marsden's crackee crackee (preaching) of a Sunday, is all gammon." "No, no," I rejoined, "that is not gammon, that is miti," (good.) "Well then," retorted the tenacious reasoner, "if your crackee crackee is no gammon, our taboo taboo is no gammon;" and thus he brought the matter to a conclusion; allowing us to prize our own system, and himself and his countrymen to venerate theirs. But, I must indulge the hope, that a short time may convince them of their error, and

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that they will very soon learn to appreciate the advantages of the light that is now offered to them.

As night was now fast approaching, and the rain still pouring down incessantly, to return to the ship was impracticable; and we were therefore obliged to resolve upon remaining where we were, though we had no bed to expect, nor even a comfortable floor to stretch upon. We wrapped ourselves up in our great coats, which by good fortune we had brought with us, and when the hour of rest came on, laid ourselves down under the projecting roof, choosing rather to remain here together, than to go into the house and mingle with its crowded inmates, which we knew would be very disagreeable. Mr. Marsden, who is blessed by nature with a strong constitution, and capable of enduring almost any fatigue, was very soon asleep; but I, who have not been cast in an Herculean mould, nor much accustomed to severe privations, felt all the misery of the situation, while the cold and wet to which I was unavoidably exposed, from the place being open, brought on a violent rheumatic headache, that prevented me from once closing my eyes, and kept me awake in the greatest

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anguish. Being at length driven from this wretched shelter by the rain which was still beating against me, I crept into the house through the narrow aperture that served for a door; and stretching myself among my rude friends, I endeavoured to get some repose; but I found this equally impossible here, as in the place I had left. The pain of my head still continued, and those round me being all buried in profound sleep, played during the whole night, such music through their noses, as effectually prevented me from being able to join in the same chorus. The packaha was the only one among them that was doomed to remain with his eyes open, and was plagued on till morning with these noisy slumbers, in which he could not participate.

After passing a most miserable night, I felt some alleviation as the day began to dawn, and I never, either before or since, hailed the appearance of any morning with half so much pleasure, as I did that of the 3rd of January, the one that was now ushered in. Our friends ceasing their nasal symphony, and starting up from under their kakahows, immediately set about making fires, and dressing some potatoes; when after

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making a hearty meal, they prepared to return with us to the ship, which I was very anxious to regain.

We recrossed the cove, and met some of the natives travelling along the shore, to whom the packaha was quickly announced. Taking a different direction on our return, to that by which we came, and keeping more inland, we observed some plantations of coomeras and potatoes belonging to Bennee and his tribe; these were not contiguous to any village or habitation, and I consider it a great proof of the insecurity in which these people live, that their grounds are rarely cultivated to any extent in the immediate vicinity of those places where they reside in congregated bodies. The plantations, though they very frequently surround the villages, are generally at some distance from them; and the latter are always constructed, either upon the summit, or at the foot of some high and almost inaccessible hill. This is most certainly occasioned by that state of disunited barbarism and feudal enmity, in which the different tribes reside among: each other; who having no moral institutions, but resorting on all occasions to physical strength, are obliged to choose those places for their

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defence, which are best calculated for that purpose, without any regard to the barrenness or fertility of the situation. Hence the plantations are commonly in detached places, where the soil is favourable, and they have no idea of concentrating their industry. But this casual plan of cultivation is, however, disadvantageous to the regular improvement of the island; and could the tribes be brought to live in amity with each other, and build their villages on the fertile grounds, their respective districts would in a short time assume a much more civilized appearance.

When we reached the canoe that was to convey us back to the ship, we were obliged to wait an hour before we could launch it, the water not being high enough; but this time was not lost to our companions, who resolved to regale themselves while we were thus delayed, on some potatoes and fernroot, which, with a provident regard for their appetites, they had brought with them from the village. Making therefore a fire, they set about their cookery, and one of the old chief's sons, who was coming with us on our return, to see the ship, paddling into the swamp, very soon brought out some large eels, which he roasted, without waiting

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to kill them, and presented to us for our repast. Glad of meeting with such good fare, we enjoyed the treat exceedingly, and considered the potatoes and eels a sumptuous banquet.

The tide rising to the proper height, our canoe was now enabled to proceed, and directing our course towards the ship, we were moving on at an excellent rate; but just at this moment the untoward appetites of our New Zealand friends, which were never to be satisfied, interfered with our progress, and wanting more kiki, they would paddle us, in spite of every remonstrance, to an adjacent village, where they again intended to gorge themselves. As we approached the shore, the women, who are the harbingers of hospitality in this country, shouted out haromai, haromai, in the usual way, and we were now very well accustomed to this friendly welcome. Korra-korra introduced us to the chief, who was sitting on the ground, surrounded by his people, all of whom were busily employed in beating fern-root for him. Our party instantly mingled with the group, and began to devour their favourite kiki, as voraciously as if they had not tasted a morsel for a week before. While our

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friends were thus indulging their gluttony, Mr. Marsden and myself walked about the village, which was very agreeably situated by the side of a wide and extensive cove, and almost embosomed among trees. It consisted of about twenty huts, and was intersected by a wall, or rather a partition of wicker-work, the use of which I was not able to discover. Here was to be seen an abundant store of various provisions, and we observed a great number of forked poles stuck in the ground, from which were hanging baskets of fern-root, dried fish, cockles, dressed potatoes, and calibashes filled with water.

All the inhabitants flocked round us the moment we presented ourselves, and the mothers, pointing to the children they carried in their arms, called out to us repeatedly, homi pickeninnee wow, which means, give the child a nail; and this request being readily complied with, their handsome features brightened up with delight at receiving so valuable a present.

In the precincts of this village, I met with one of the most beautiful trees I had observed since I had been on the island. It grew to a very large size, spreading its

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luxuriant branches to an enormous extent; and its foliage, which was of a dark green, and so thick as to be impervious to the rays of the sun, formed a cool and refreshing shade for the natives to sit under. A fruit very similar both in shape and colour to the white heart cherry, was growing upon it, but on tasting it, I found it very bitter and disagreeable. The natives, when they saw me put it in my mouth, shook their heads very significantly, and said I would be matou mouee (killed) by what I had done. From this I inferred, that it was considered poisonous among them, but I never experienced any ill effects from it.

Our friends by this time having been stuffed to repletion, we took leave of the chief, who was an old man, and father to the calculating Pomaree. The visit we paid him, he received with great indifference; for during the time we stayed, he never once moved from his seat, nor did our presence appear to excite, in his mind the least curiosity.

The writer, who is studious to give a faithful narration of facts, will not omit any that are connected with his subject, unless such as are evidently of a nature to demand that silence which delicacy requires;

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and the reader, if he derives occasional amusement from the observations of the traveller, must also be prepared for unpleasant sensations. It now becomes my duty to notice a most disgusting practice among the New Zealanders, to an instance of which I was myself a reluctant witness.

As we were paddling on to the ship, I observed one of our party apply his hand to his head very frequently, and then thrust his fingers into his mouth; while his filthy purpose being no longer doubtful, I soon discovered that he was feasting himself on the swarms of vermin he had engendered, and that his dirty head was a regular resource to his more dirty stomach. Many of these vermin had been transferred to me, during the preceding night, and I thought I could never reach the ship time enough to change my clothes, and free myself from such loathsome intruders. It is strange why these people, who are extremely exact in some other respects, should be so shockingly disgusting in this; for though their plantations are neatly laid out, and their huts kept in tolerable order, their persons are suffered to swarm with cootoos, which it would seem, they rather wish to encourage than expel.

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But this most obnoxious practice is not solely confined to the poor savages of New Zealand; it is to be found, or one very analogous to it, as we are informed, in a country in Europe; 3 where, not only the ordinary cleanliness, but the superior elegancies of civilized life, would be supposed to exist in an eminent degree. Yet, in such a country as this it is that the ladies, as we are told, rival the dirtiest barbarians, in a custom so abhorrent. On reaching the ship, we found several spars floated along-side, and seven or eight canoes full of people, waiting for the various articles they were to receive in return. Our deck was so crowded with the natives, that it resembled a fair; and among those who had brought down the greatest number of the spars, and were the most active dealers,

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we particularly observed Tekokee and Pomaree, both of whom, and the latter especially, appeared good adepts at making bargains.